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Maps Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Events Hotels

Zurich June – July 2018

Summer Hangouts

Zurich’s best open-air bars and swimming spots

Football Fever

Where to watch the World Cup FREE COPY inyourpocket.com N°47


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Contents Advertisement

Arriving & Getting Around

5

City Basics

7

History

10

Summertime 11 Open-air bars, river baths and hikes

Culture & Events 16 Concerts, shows and exhibitions

Restaurants

19

Fine dining, cheesy treats and much more

Cafés

29

Chocolate, coffee and conversation

Nightlife Where to watch the World Cup

30 33

Sightseeing

35

Churches, murals and museums

Zurich for kids

43

Major fun for minor citizens

Zurich has lots of beautiful summer spots for swimming and drinking, like Seebad Enge pictured here. Find them all in our summer special on p. 11. Zurich Tourism

Shopping

46

Fancy fashion and Swiss design

Watches & Jewellery

54

Zurich Nord

58

Restaurants and bars in the north of the city

Leisure

59

Laser tag, escape rooms and billiards

Day trips

60

Natural highlights and cultural heritage

Queer Zurich

62

Hotels

63

Maps & Index Football fever will sweep the nation again this summer when the World Cup takes place from June 14 to July 15. Discover the best spots to watch the matches in our World Cup feature on p. 33. PD Advertisement

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66-68 69 70

City map Index Public transport map Advertisement

Oberdorfstrasse 25 - Zürich

June – July 2018 3


Foreword Let’s say it loud and clear – Zurich is an excellent summer destination! Even if it is located north of the Alps and offers admittedly less stable weather than that found in Southern Europe, it does boast a nearly Mediterranean lifestyle in the hot season. Let’s begin with the bathing areas at the river and the lake. You can take a swim in the River Limmat at Oberer Letten right next to the main train station. The water is clean and perfectly safe for anyone who wants to take a dip. There are also a couple of pools and lidos, where you have access to the lake as well as proper changing facilities. Many of these river and lake pools turn into lively openair bars later in the evening. That said, you can avoid the crowds and wade in almost anywhere. In the summer, everyday city life moves outdoors whenever possible. Simple bars pop up all over town and many venues provide spectacular outdoor terraces for balmy evenings. And Zurich’s ice cream vendors can hold their own with Italy’s finest, especially the proper gelaterias that have popped up in recent years. Read all about the best places to go in our summer special on p. 11. And after a couple of weeks of a summer state of mind, Zurich’s busy inhabitants slow down and smell the roses like their Italian neighbours to the south. That’s when you know that summer has truly arrived in Zurich! Lukas Füglister has lived in Zurich for nearly 15 years now. As editor and general manager of Zurich In Your Pocket he made sharing his profound knowledge of the city his profession in 2010. He loves dining out, craft beer and tennis and never tires of exploring Zurich. lukas.fueglister@inyourpocket.com

25

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

years

MOBILE | ONLINE | PRINT

COVER STORY One of the highlights of a trip to Zurich in the summer is to spend some quality time soaking up some sunlight at the outdoor terrace of a restaurant like the one on this issue’s cover at Hirschenplatz in Niederdorf.

PUBLISHER & STAFF Publisher pocket publishing GmbH, Wuhrstrasse 15, 8003 Zürich tel. (+41) 32 510 85 76, zurich@inyourpocket​​​​​​​​​​​.com, www.inyourpocket.ch Member of Zürich Tourism / Spirit Club Yearly print run: 180 000 (6 x 30 000) ISSN 1663-9944 © pocket publishing GmbH 2018 Editor & General Manager Lukas Füglister Copy editor Mārtiņš Zaprauskis, Layout & Maps Tomáš Haman Photos For photographers see photos Cover © Zurich Tourism Sales manager Susi Haefeli, susi.haefeli@inyourpocket.com, (+41) 32 511 28 68, Ad rates at www.inyourpocket.ch, next issue’s closing date: July 10, 2018 Editor’s note & Copyright notice The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We assume no responsibiltiy for changes and errors. Content copyright pocket publishing GmbH. Photos copyright photographers. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. The brand name In Your Pocket and maps are used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, LT, tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

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Arriving & Getting Around ARRIVING BY PLANE Zurich International Airport (ZRH) lies 13 kilometres north of the city centre in Kloten and handles around 700 flights a day going to over 170 destinations worldwide. You can find ATMs and switzerlandinfo desks at Arrival 1 and Arrival 2 just after you pass customs. There you can find free copies of Zurich In Your Pocket. There is a big public shopping area with most shops open from 08:00 - 21:00 (groceries from 06:00 - 23:00) and free Wifi for the first 120 minutes, just connect your device to ’ZurichAirport’.

OFFICIAL INTERNET SHOP WWW.PARTIMEWATCH.COM

Getting to town: The easiest and fastest way to get to and from the airport is by train. Catch a train at the underground train station near terminals 1 and 2 - if the sign on the platform reads Zürich HB (HB = Hauptbahnhof = main station), it’s the right train. Up to 10 trains leave an hour and the journey takes roughly 10 minutes. Tickets can be bought at the counters or at the ticket machines (switch them to English on the first screen) next to the stairs leading down to the platforms. A ticket for an adult is 6.80Sfr and valid for one hour in the whole city (3 zones). If you plan to do more travelling by public transport, make it a 24-hour ticket for just twice the price or consider buying a Zürich Card (see p. 39). A taxi ride to central Zurich costs around 60Sfr. Official taxi stands are just outside Arrivals 1 and 2. Tram N°10 takes you from the airport via Oerlikon to Zurich main station as well. The journey takes 37 minutes and the same tickets valid for the trains can be used.

ARRIVING BY TRAIN Zurich’s main train station, referred to by locals as HB (short for Hauptbahnhof, say haa-bay), is right in the centre of the city. All international and domestic trains leave and arrive here. From the platforms just follow the herd towards the main hall, where you will find the main exit towards the city centre, the ticket offices and Tourist Information (see p. 9). Trams, buses and taxis leave just outside the station.

SWISS MADE

TO SEE THIS CUP YOU NEED TO MAKE IT TO THE WORLD CUP FINAL – OR TO ZURICH.

At the ticket office in the main hall you can buy train tickets (also available at the many ticket machines), tickets for public transport in Zurich and also change money. For timetables and tickets refer to www.sbb.ch, call tel. (+41) 900 300 300 (1.19Sfr/min) or download the ‘SBB Mobile’ app to your smartphone.

International buses as well as sightseeing buses arrive and start at the bus station (Bus Terminal Sihlquai, F‑10), a two-minute walk north from the main train station (close to track 18). Starting this June there will be some domestic longdistance coaches for the first time in Switzerland.

ARRIVING BY BUS

WWW.FIFAMUSEUM.COM Seestrasse 27, 8002 Zurich

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June – July 2018 5 ZIYP_60x90_en_Version Q1_2018_v03_hgs.indd 1

08.01.2018 16:08:16


Arriving & Getting Around ARRIVING BY CAR The Swiss highways A1, A2, A3 and A4 lead from all directions to Zurich and if you follow the signs to Zurich City, the city centre is quite easy to reach. Sadly, parking is scarce and very expensive. For overnight parking you can try to find a spot in the so-called blue zone in residential areas - parking there is free from 19:00 - 08:00. Indicate your arrival time on your parking disk. Driving in Switzerland is generally easy. If you’re using the motorways you have to buy a vignette for 40Sfr. Remember that trams always have the right of way, as well as pedestrians on zebra crossings without traffic lights. Headlights must be turned on all the time. The legal blood alcohol limit for drivers is 0.05%. The standard speed limit is 50km/h in urban areas, 80km/h outside towns and 120km/h on motorways. In residential zones, it is often 30km/h. Fines are high and Switzerland makes sure you pay the fine even if you have a foreign number plate. You may use your home driving licence.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT City transport Zurich’s public transport network includes trams, buses, local trains and even ships on the lake and the river. The ticket system is fairly simple: the regional network is divided into zones. You don’t buy tickets for a trip, but rather for a zone. The network of the city of Zurich is zone number 110 (see map p. 70). Tickets are valid in the chosen

TAXI SMARTS Taxis in Zurich are in general clean, safe, reliable - and expensive. It‘s usually easy to get one, even at rush hour. The city sets the following maximum prices for taxis: initial fee 8Sfr, 5Sfr per kilometre, 80Sfr per hour. The actual fees have to be displayed on a sticker on the door of the car. In reality only two prices exist: the maximum fee and the lower one many companies charge (incl. the two listed below): initial fee (Basis on the sticker) 6Sfr, 3.80Sfr per kilometre (Distanz), 69Sfr per hour (Wartezeit). When taking a taxi from a stand, check the prices on their door. Yes, you are free to take any taxi at a stand. At official taxi stands, you will often find the more expensive ones (especially at the main train station). Taxi drivers have to and usually do use their metres. Cheating is rare. The ridesharing service Uber also operates in Zurich. You can order your driver easily by using its app. Fares are usually significantly cheaper than standard taxi fares (initial fee 3-6Sfr, 1.80 - 3.60Sfr per kilometre, 0.30 0.60Sfr per minute, higher if demand is higher). TAXI 444Qtel. (+41) 44 444 44 44, www.taxi444.ch. TAXI 7x7Qtel. (+41) 44 777 77 77, www.7x7.ch.

6 Zurich In Your Pocket

Cutting-edge and vintage tram technology - occasionally both are in service. PD

zones on all kinds of transportation. A 24-hours pass for the city will cost you 8.80Sfr, a single ticket valid for one hour 4.40Sfr. Children up to five travel for free, 6 - 16 year-olds pay the so-called half-fare (which is actually 3.10Sfr). These tickets can be purchased at the ticket machines you find at almost every stop (most take credit cards). Note that Uetliberg and the airport are not within zone 110. If you get caught without a valid ticket, you’ll be fined 90Sfr. Another option is the Zürich Card (27Sfr/24hrs, 53Sfr/72hrs), which is valid for zone 110 as well as between the airport and the city and it also gives you free admission to many museums. See p. 39 for more information. Public transport in Zurich runs roughly from 05:00 - 00:30. There are night buses all night from Friday to Saturday and from Saturday to Sunday to all parts of the town. Most of them start at Bellevue and pass by Central and Escher-Wyss Platz. They require a 5Sfr supplement to any valid ticket. Send a text message from your mobile with the word ’NZ’ to 988 to purchase the supplement by phone. Trains The train network is best for getting around Switzerland quickly and in comfort. For timetables visit www.sbb.ch. Tickets are sold at vending machines and at the counters in the main hall of Zurich’s main train station.

BICYCLES There are several hundred free-floating rental bikes available throughout Zurich operated by two different companies. You simply download the respective app and register your credit card and then you’ll be able to see where the closest bike is located. Book it, find and unlock it with your phone and hop on! LIMEBIKE, green, three gears, quite comfortable to ride. 1Sfr per half hour, no deposit and the first ride is free. Qwww.limebike.com. OBIKE, yellow, only one gear, only recomended in flat areas. 1.50Sfr per half hour, deposit 49Sfr.Qwww.o.bike ZÜRI VELO - PUBLIBIKE, comfortable high quality bikes, pick-up and return only at stations, e-bikes available. 3Sfr for the first 30 minutes. Qwww.publibike.ch zurich.inyourpocket.com


City Basics BASIC DATA Area Switzerland: 41285 km² Zurich (Canton): 1729 km² Zurich (City): 92 km² Population Switzerland: 8 million Zurich (city): 405,000 Official languages Switzerland: German, French, Italian, Romansh Zurich: German Local time Central European (GMT+1h)

CUSTOMS Switzerland is not a member of the European customs union. On the one hand that gives you the opportunity to buy real tax-free goods at airports when you are travelling from and to Switzerland. On the other hand there are tight restrictions on the goods you can take free of customs duty from Switzerland to your country. For EU-countries the following customs and tax allowances apply (for other countries check with the according customs authorities):

DRINKING The drinking age in Switzerland is 16 for wine and beer and 18 for spirits and alcopops. The standard sizes for beer are the 0.3 litre Stange (pronounce: shtang-eh) and the 0.5 litre Grosses (gro-sus). The long-standing medium-scale brewers are increasingly getting competition from local brewers. Check out Sprint, Paul, Chopfab or Appenzeller for instance. Swiss wines are also not to be underestimated. While the best come from further south, you’ll find some good Blauburgunders and Riesling Sylvaners from the Zurich region.

ELECTRICITY Electricity in Switzerland is 230 V, 50 Hz AC. Plug sockets are round and take three round pins - they can take Europlugs with two pins. If you are coming from the US or the UK (as well as from many other countries) you need an adaptor. Travellers from the US (and other countries with a a different voltage) additionally need a voltage converter.

HEALTH & EMERGENCY Emergency telephone numbers (operators usually speak basic English): Ambulance: 144 Police: 117 Fire brigade: 118 If you need medical attention, there are several walk-in medical centres, like Permanence at the main train station (facing Bahnhofstrasse), where you just pull a ticket and wait your turn ((+41) 44 215 44 44, Bahnhofplatz 15, open 07:00 - 22:00) or mediX (+41) 44 298 50 50, Badenerstrasse 41, open 07:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 18:00). Zurich also has three public hospitals with walk-in emergency units which are open 24 hours a day for urgent matters. EMERGENCY UNIT UNIVERSITÄTSSPITAL QH‑11, Rämistrasse 100, 8ETH/Universitätsspital, tel. (+41) 44 255 11 11. Open 24 hrs.

USEFUL ZURICH APPS The Cassiopeia pedestrian bridge on the western shore of Lake Zurich. ZIYP

Tobacco: 200 (50 to some countries) cigarettes or 100 (20) cigarillos or 50 (10) cigars or 250 (50) g of smoking tobacco. Alcohol: 1 litre of spirits over 22% vol or 2 litres of spirits with less than 22% vol, 4 litres of still wine, 16 litres of beer. Other goods: Max value of all goods: 430 euros for air travellers and 300 euros for other travellers. Goods over these limits must be declared when entering an EU-country, additional taxes and VAT may apply. In Switzerland there is duty-free shopping for arriving passengers at airports. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

Our own app, In Your Pocket City Essentials, features only our favourite places in Zurich (and many other cities). Just as useful is the map, which is also available offline. It’s available for free on both iOS and Android. To download, simply go to iyp.me/app on your smartphone or scan the QR code on the front cover of this guide. The free app ZVV-Fahrplan provides real time doorto-door timetable information for all public transport within the ZVV network in the canton of Zurich. It also tells you where the nearest stop is, and how to get from A to B. And it’s available in English. With the free ZVV-Tickets app you can buy tickets on the fly, quickly and easily (App store and Google Play). June – July 2018 7


City Basics EMERGENCY UNIT STADTSPITAL TRIEMLI QBirmensdorferstrasse 497, 8Triemli, tel. (+41) 44 466 11 11. Open 24 hrs. EMERGENCY UNIT STADTSPITAL WAID QC‑4, Tièchestrasse 99, 8Bucheggplatz, tel. (+41) 44 366 20 55. Open 24 hrs. Pharmacies To find out where the next pharmacy (Apotheke in German) on duty is, call (+41) 900 55 35 55 (1.50 Sfr/min). The pharmacy at Bellevue is always open 24 hrs (G-14, Theaterstrasse 14, (+41) 44 266 62 22).

LANGUAGE Switzerland has four official languages: German (spoken by 64%), French (20%), Italian (6.5%) and Romansh (0.5%). Zurich lies in the German speaking part of the country, where people speak a German dialect, so called Swiss German or Schwyzerdütsch. Be it among friends, at work or when dealing with the authorities, people speak dialect. However, Swiss people use standard German, so-called Hochdeutsch, when writing and speaking at school.

MAIL & PHONE Post: Swiss post is generally reliable and also can take care of all your financial transactions. The Sihlpost is the post office with the longest opening hours (see below).

NATIONAL HOLIDAYS January 1 January 2 April 8, 2019 April 19, 2019 April 22, 2019 May 1 May 30, 2019 June 10, 2019 August 1 September 10, 2018 December 25

New Year Berchtold Day (local) Sechseläuten (Zurich only) Good Friday Easter Monday Labour Day (Zurich only) Ascension Whit Monday National Holiday Knabenschiessen (Zurich only) Christmas

MONEY The currency and legal tender of Switzerland is the Swiss franc (Sfr), which is divided in 100 rappen. There are banknotes of 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 1000 francs. The coins in use are 1, 2 and 5 francs as well as 5, 10, 20 and 50 rappen.You can change your money at the SBB change at the main railway station or any of the banks. Or just withdraw Swiss francs with your Maestro or your Plus card from one of the ubiquitous ATMs. Credit cards are widely accepted - both in shops and restaurants. Service is always included. At a restaurant however, if you were happy with the service, leave 5-10% of the bill as a tip.

Dialling: Switzerland’s calling code is +41. Zurich’s code is (0)44 or (0)43. We list the country code before all telephone numbers in parentheses. Of course you only have to use this if you are dialling from abroad. If you are already in Switzerland, just ignore the (+41) prefix, dial 0 and then the nine-digit number. SIHLPOST Zurich‘s central post office, open until late. Take a ticket and wait for your turn. QE‑11, Kasernenstrasse 97, 8Sihlpost, tel. (+41) 848 888 888. Open 06:30 - 22:30, Sat 06:30 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:30.

LANGUAGE SMARTS Here are some typical Swiss German words - it will be always appreciated if you use a few Swiss words. The ‘r‘ in Swiss German is rolled, the ‘ch’ is pronounced like in the Scottish loch. Mind your throat. Hello (formal)

Grüezi

(groo-e-tsi)

Goodbye (formal)

Adieu

(as in French)

Thank you

Merci

(mersi)

Sorry!

Entschuldigung!

(ent-shooldi-goong)

Excuse me!

Exgüsi!

(ex-gewsi)

Switzerland

D’Schwyz

(t’shviiits)

Cheers!

Zum Wohl!

(tsoom vol)

Zurich

Züri

(tsoori)

8 Zurich In Your Pocket

Morning glory at the River Limmat in the old town.

Zurich Tourism

POLITICS The Swiss like to consider their country the home of direct democracy and citizens here are regularly asked to take a stand on national issues. The two chambers of parliament are (mainly) elected in a proportional voting system and the seven-member government appointed by parliament always includes representatives of all of the four or five major parties. Switzerland is a federal republic consisting of 26 cantons, once sovereign states which retain some independence and have their own constitutions, parliaments and governments. Bern is the capital and the seat of the parliament and the federal authorities. Due to the understanding of political independence many locals favour, Switzerland is not a member of the EU. zurich.inyourpocket.com


City Basics RELIGION The Swiss are traditionally either Roman Catholic (42%) or Protestant (35%). The largest (and quite new) minority religious community are Muslims (4%). Zurich is traditionally Protestant, due to the ardent reformator Zwingli who put an end to partying here in the 16th century. But his grip has loosened somewhat in recent decades.

The best Zurich has to offer in one great app

SAFETY Zurich is a safe city, and in fact there is no no-go area, even for single travellers at night. Be on guard against pickpockets just as in any European city.

SMOKING The legal age for smoking is 16. Smoking in public buildings and transport is illegal. However, restaurants and bars are allowed to have a separate smoking room (fumoir).

VISAS For a stay of up to three months, many foreigners simply need a passport or an ID card to enter Switzerland. Even though not a member of the European Union, Switzerland is a member of the Schengen Agreement. As a result a Schengen visa is valid for Switzerland as well. Always check these details with a Swiss embassy or consulate.

TOURIST INFORMATION The Tourist Information run by Zurich Tourism is conveniently located in the main hall of the main train station. This is a one-stop solution for all the information you might be missing - and much more. For personal advice at the counter, take a ticket and wait your turn. There are some pads for you to browse and check out the many offers like tours and venues - and you can pick up leaflets and a city map. But they don’t just have advice, they also offer the following services. They... • will book city tours and excursions • sell tickets for public transport, incl. the Swiss Travel Pass • sell the Zürich Card (see p. 39 for more infos) • can make hotel reservations • also sell tickets for events and museums, souvenirs and gift vouchers

City Essentials Only our favourite places Works offline, incl. maps Free download Incl. dozens of other cities www.iyp.me/app

Last but not least you can always pick up the latest copy of Zurich In Your Pocket here - for free, of course. QG-11, Main hall of the main train station. Open 08:00 - 20:30, Sun 08:30 - 18:30.

facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

June – July 2018 9


History XVI Century Huldrych Zwingli, priest at the Grossmünster, was a major critic of mercenary service. But he had a lot more to say and became the initiator of the Reformation in Zurich from 1520 on. The Reformation meant an end to all frivolous behaviour - drinking, prostitution and actually most fun was forbidden or strictly regulated.

NAPOLEON CAUSES A BOTHER XVI - XVIII Century During the 16th and 17th Centuries Zurich’s wealth and influence increased. Among the intellectuals of the time were the educational reformer Heinrich Pestalozzi or the painter Johann Heinrich Füssli, whose work you’ll find today in the Kunsthaus. In 1798 Zurich lost its independence as Napoleon took over, transforming the Swiss Confederacy into the Helvetic Republic for a brief five years. Zurich’s somewhat grim reformator Huldrych Zwingli.

ZIYP

ROMANS AND SCHWYZERDÜÜTSCH

RAILWAYS AND A STRIKE

100BC - X Century Around 15 BC the Romans established a military base at the site of today’s Lindenhof where you can find a copy of the Roman tomb stone mentioning Turicum, the word from which Zurich derives. Roman rule ended around 400 AD and nobody really has any idea what went on in Zurich for the next few centuries. One change was the arrival of the Germanic tribe of the Allemanni, who brought with them the language that was to become today’s Swiss German (Schwyzerdüütsch).

XIX - XX Century Modern-day Switzerland was founded in 1848 as a federation. The year before, the first railway line in Switzerland was opened. Railways were the business Alfred Escher was in. He dominated Zurich and Swiss politics for the next few decades. His statue can be found just in front of the main train station. Switzerland remained neutral during the First World War and was refuge to the artists who started the Dada movement in Zurich. The war exacerbated the poverty of the working classes and in 1918 a socialist committee called a general strike. Many of the committee’s demands were later fulfilled, though not the demand for the right of women to vote, which was not introduced until 1971!

ZURICH IN WOMEN’S HANDS

THE RÉDUIT AND THE WAR

XII - XIV Century In the 13th Century Zurich became an imperial city, answering only to the emperor of the Holy Roman Empire. Zurich was now headed by a woman the abbess of the Fraumünster abbey. In 1336 an uprising of Zurich’s craftsmen made the newly founded guilds the foundation of Zurich’s political structure. Many of the guild houses, still in use today, are now also restaurants like the Zunfthaus Zur Schmiden or the Zunfthaus am Neumarkt (emblem of the guild of the shoemakers on the left).

XX Century During most of the Second World War Switzerland, formally neutral, was totally surrounded by the Axis powers, making it difficult to import food and other goods. General Guisan prepared for a military attack by literally hollowing out the Alps, envisaging a guerrilla war from the mountains, the socalled réduit strategy.

ZURICH GOES SWISS…  AND PROTESTANT XIV - XVI Century In 1351 Zurich joined ’Switzerland’, which had existed as a treaty since 1291. This however didn’t stop the city waging war against fellow cantons, such as against Schwyz. Soon the city ruled over lands around Lake Zurich and north all the way to the river Rhine. 10 Zurich In Your Pocket

ZURICH TODAY XX - XXI Century After the war Switzerland’s economy boomed and mass immigration from Southern Europe set in, while culturally and politically Switzerland remained very conservative. In 1968 and 1980 youth movements clashed with police, but also brought new cultural life to Zurich. Today Zurich is still a major financial centre and has lost the conservative reputation. It has become popular as a place to live for highlyskilled workers from across Europe. This has made the lack of affordable apartments one of the major topics in Zurich today. zurich.inyourpocket.com


Summertime

The nostalgic Art Nouveau river baths Frauenbadi tempt swimmers - if you’re female, that is. Women only! | Zurich Tourism

Summer is definitely a pleasant time to visit Zurich, even though it isn’t always just endless sunshine and flowers. Summer is not only the warmest, but also the wettest season in the city. Much of the rain comes as thunderstorms, and luckily they pass by as fast as they appear. There are plenty of great places to go on a hot day, especially swimming spots, open-air bars and squares. The numbers next to each venue refer to the map on p. 14.

SWIMMING & RELAXING With its lake and the River Limmat, Zurich offers plenty of grand opportunities for a swim. Yes, the water in both is cleaner than in many European cities and fine for swimming. Besides the possibility of just jumping into the lake anywhere (watch out for ships and boats), the city has 11 official outdoor swimming baths on the lake and the river, many with facilities such as cloakrooms, toilets, kiosks, etc. In 2018 they are open from May 10 until September 10/16. For many of them an entrance fee is charged (8Sfr adults, 6Sfr from 16 - 20 years, 4Sfr kids), but the ones on the river are usually free. In the morning (07:00/09:00 - 11:00) they are usually open regardless of weather conditions. If it’s sunny closing time is usually 20:00. After that many of the baths turn into lively open-air bars. We list our favourite places by the water below. Remember swimming in the lake and especially the river is only for good swimmers. Bear in mind that there is not necessarily a lifeguard present even at official swimming facilities. If you’re swimming in the lake it’s facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

advisable to wear a coloured bathing cap so ships can see you better. Swimming in the River Limmat between the lake and the river swimming baths at Oberer Letten is forbidden, as there is busy boat and ship traffic there. 1 FRAUENBADI (RIVER BATHS) You can find these nostalgic river baths in Art Nouveau style between Bürkliplatz and Münsterplatz – it’s women only. The baths feature two pools, one for swimmers and one for non-swimmers and two sunbathing areas, one not visible from the outside and one on the pier towards the river. Wed, Thu and Sun after 20:00 the Frauenbadi turns into a bar - for both sexes. You have to leave your shoes at the entrance.QG‑14, Stadthausquai 12, 8Bürkliplatz, tel. (+41) 44 211 95 92, www.barfussbar.ch. Open 09:00 - 19:30 (until Sept 16, 2018), Wed & Thu bar until 24:00, Sun evening open-air disco (16Sfr). Admission 8/6/4Sfr. 2 SEEBAD ENGE (LAKE POOL) The Enge lake baths are close to Port Enge on the southern side of the lake. It has a mixed and a women-only area, both with a pool construction which is in the lake filled with lake water and access to the lake proper. There are also three marked swimming lanes in the lake. The Enge pool is not recommended for kids. The Enge turns into a lively bar and restaurant in the evening - nice for having a beer with some meat from the barbecue while you dangle your feet in the water and enjoy the light lake breeze.QF‑16, Mythenquai 9, 8Rentenanstalt, tel. (+41) 44 201 38 89, www.tonttu.ch. In 2018 open from May 10 until Sept 16, 08:00 - 20:00 (09:00 - 19:00 in May & Sept), bar until 24:00. 8Sfr.

June – July 2018 11


Summertime ICE CREAM

Gelati Tellhof

5 GELATI TELLHOF

Gelato fever seems to have hit Zurich and one of the latest offerings is Tellhof where the selection of flavours is huge, including proper Italian ice cream and even vegan sorbets. We tried the traditional vanilla and chocolate combination, and although we found the vanilla a touch too sweet, the chocolate was exactly how we like it - bittersweet and a good match with the vanilla. Every time you order you’re also encouraged to try an additional tiny taster ball of a different flavour no doubt to ensure repeat business (a clever idea). The same can be said of the free tap water which you can pour yourself. You can also create your own sundae or take away your ice cream in an insulated box. A small café-like seating area is also available.QD‑10, Tellstrasse 20, 8Sihlpost/HB, www.gelati-tellhof.ch. Open 12:00 - 22:00.

ON THE LAKE On a hot summer day, there’s nothing better than a cruise on the lake with a fresh breeze, so here then are some options. For cruises and round trips on offer by Lake Zurich Navigation Company ZSG see p. 36.

3 OBERER LETTEN (RIVER BATHS) The river area around the Letten hydro-electric power plant is one of the coolest places to have a swim in summer - or to just hang out with the city’s young and fancy crowd. Just behind the National Museum next to the main train station, the River Limmat flows into a canal feeding the power plant. On the left side of the canal (when you’re looking downstream) are the swimming facilities, in a concrete structure by the water (access from Kornhausbrücke, close to Limmatplatz). Admission is free. There’s a changing room, lockers, a lifeguard at certain times (when the yellow flag is up) and sunbathing areas, one of which is women-only. At the Panama bar (www.panamabar.ch) you can have a snack and a drink overlooking the river (open in the evening as well). Just across the canal there is a beach volleyball court and a popular sunbathing area as well as the Primitivo bar which serves drinks and food until midnight. If you walk down the path on the righthand side of the river from the main station you’ll notice them soon enough. You can also swim down the canal – just jump in and float towards the swimming facilities. Remember: good swimmers only!QE‑8, Lettensteg 10, 8Bahnhofquai/Limmatplatz, tel. (+41) 44 362 92 00. Changing rooms etc. open 09:00 - 20:00 (May 10 - Sept 10, 2018), bars until 24:00. Admission free. 4 WERDINSEL (RIVER POOL AU-HÖNGG) Werdinsel is an island in the River Limmat in the district of Höngg, a few kilometres down the river. On sunny summer days it’s a blissful recreation area. Have a swim in the canal (good swimmers only please!), sunbathe out in the meadow or let your kids play in the paddling pool. There are lockers, toilets, fire places to grill your own meat and a small restaurant. If you walk further west on the island, the nature gets a little wilder. On summer weekends it’s crowded with families and folks having outdoor grill parties on the river bank. The most western part of the island is a nudist area and is also frequented by the gay community, but not exclusively. To get to the island take tram N°4 in direction Werdhölzli and get off at Tüffenwies.QWerdinsel, 8Tüffenwies, tel. (+41) 44 341 71 93. Facilities open 09:00 - 20:00 (May 10 until Sept 10, 2018). Admission free.

BOAT RENTALS Why not rent a pedalo or a rowboat and take a cruise on Lake Zurich to enjoy the sun? Prices: pedalos 20 - 35Sfr/h, motorboats (6 - 8 HP) 58 - 70Sfr/h. No reservations, just show up and wait for one. BOOTSVERMIETUNG ENGEQF‑16, Mythenquai 25, tel. (+41) 44 211 22 62, www.bootsvermietung -zuerich.ch. Open 10:00 - sunset. BOOTSVERMIETUNG RYTZ + KREUZER QH‑16, Seefeldquai 8, tel. (+41) 79 673 58 38, www.bootsvermietung-seefeld.ch. In nice weather . LAGOQG‑15, Utoquai 6, tel. (+41) 44 262 22 20, www.lago-zuerich.ch. Open in nice weather. 12 Zurich In Your Pocket

Oberer Letten, a river pool for urbanistas.

Zurich Tourism

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beachwear for every body. www.ta-bou.com

Uraniastrasse 31 next to Jelmoli-Parking


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Many Zurich restaurants have pleasant outdoor seating areas, and Zurich residents really love to eat or have a drink under the open sky during the summer months. Most bars and restaurants we list below are solely open-air. That means they close when it’s raining. Many of the lake and river baths turn into lively bars in the evening (check out Oberer Letten and Seebad Enge - see Swimming & Relaxing). For more outdoor dining suggestions, check the Lakeside restaurants category on p. 20.

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Small, quirky, improvised, but lovely: Kleine Freiheit.

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6 BAUSCHÄNZLI Once a part of the fortification of the city towards the lake, these days the Bauschänzli peninsula makes itself useful as a beer garden. Get a big beer (a grosses) at the self-service counter and a bratwurst (veal sausage) with potato salad and enjoy the shade of the big old trees and the view of the river. Different bands play popular music (15:00 17:30, 19:00 - 22:00, Fri & Sat 15:00 - 17:00, 19:00 - 22:30; football matches will replace dance music during the FIFA World Cup) for the mostly fifty-plus guests who hit the dance floor. There is a full-service area where not only the food, but also the prices are more sophisticated.QG‑14, Stadthausquai 2, 8Bürkliplatz, tel. (+41) 44 212 49 19, www.bauschaenzli.ch. Open 11:00 - 23:00. 7 BINZ UND KUNZ This open-air bar brings some Mediterranean summer flair to the Binz district. And while this neighbourhood is off the beaten path for most of Zurich’s visitors, Binz und Kunz is a good alternative that’s worth the extra travel on hot days when central places on the water are teeming with people. The set-up with freight containers and strings of coloured lights is nothing new, but the Lebanese mezze platter we had was excellent, the beer cold and our seats on the terrace on top of the containers, better than average. What more could you ask for on a balmy summer night?QA‑15, Räffelstrasse 17, 8Laubegg, www.binzundkunz.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.

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Summertime WALKS & HEIGHTS Zurich is surrounded by woody hills, so why not climb one to take in the views? You can either hike up or let the train take you there - or even the cable car. An enjoyable endeavour either way.

It can get real busy: Rimini bar.

Zurich Tourism

8 FRAU GEROLDS GARTEN Yet another attraction has sprouted up on the urban wasteland next to Hardbrücke station - the open-air bar and restaurant Frau Gerolds Garten, which sprawls over some 20,000m². Old shipping containers house the two bars and a kitchen and provide a terrace where you can sip a drink and enjoy the view over the sea of railway tracks and beyond. There really is a garden too, including vegetables which apparently are used by the chefs. From the couple of daily changing menus on offer we chose a very decent crayfish salad with Thousand Island dressing. There’s usually also a grill serving sausages and a tent, providing dry seating even in the rain.QB‑8, Geroldstrasse 23, 8Hardbrücke, www.fraugerold.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 9 KLEINE FREIHEIT ‘Little Freedom’ is an adorable outdoor café/bar at Weinbergpark, a small park just a few footsteps from Central. Take a seat on the comfy chairs or at the tables located next to the container pavilion that serves as a bar and enjoy a cup of coffee or a local Paul beer. If you’d like to strap on the feedbag, it serves oriental sandwiches and mezze platters (Middle Eastern tapas). It’s the perfect place to while away some time on a sunny day. You can also grab some books or board games from the container. In bad weather and in winter, the winter garden is open.QG‑10, Weinbergstrasse 30F1, 8Haldenegg, www.kleinefreiheit.ch. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00; on balmy evenings open until 24:00. 10 RIMINI - MÄNNERBAD SCHANZENGRABEN Set in the Männerbad, an open-air swimming place for men only during daytime, the Rimini bar is a buzzing open-air bar in the evening. The illuminated trees of the neighbouring Old Botanical Garden make it look like a little oasis right in the centre of the city. Hidden behind the former Zurich stock exchange, it’s a meeting point for business men and women and the city centre’s hip crowd. But don’t worry: you’ll fit in here, whether in business clothes or in shorts and flip-flops. For snacks there is pizza. QE‑13, Badweg 10, 8Bahnhof Selnau, www.rimini.ch. Open 19:15 - 24:00, Fri 18:45 - 24:00, Sat 14:00 - 24:00, weather permitting.

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FELSENEGG LOOKOUT This short trip takes you up to one of the best lookout points in the Zurich area: Felsenegg. Getting up there with the only aerial cable car operating in the canton of Zurich is also fun. First, take the S4 train in the direction of Langnau-Gattikon and get off after 15 minutes at Adliswil. From there it’s a well-signposted 10-minute walk to the valley station of the aerial cable car, which leaves every 15 minutes for Felsenegg (summer 08:05 22:05, Sun 08:05 - 20:05). Once you’re up there, refresh yourself in the restaurant and of course take in the view of the city, the lake and the Alps. There are also many options for a walk. Follow the panorama trail to Uetliberg (90 minutes), where the S10 train will take you back to Zurich.QZelgstrasse 80, Adliswil, tel. (+41) 44 710 73 30, www.laf.ch. From Zurich a ticket for zones 110, 150, 155 is needed. Tickets valid for two hours: 8.80/4.40Sfr. For the cable car only: 4.40/3.10Sfr. The Albis daypass is your best option for the round trip: 17.60/8.80Sfr. The trip to Felsenegg and Uetliberg is also included with the Zürich Card.

LOVE IS IN

T HE A I R

www.laf.ch June – July 2018 15


Culture & Events Zurich offers a rich bouquet of culture, with its opera and ballet of (at least) European renown and a packed programme of excellent concerts. Pop and rock stars almost always stop in Zurich when touring the continent and Zurich also has a vibrant theatre scene, but unfortunately very few productions in English. Events are listed in the following categories: classical concerts, exhibitions and rock & pop concerts. Within the sections it’s ordered by date. Of course there are many more events than we can list, so we recommend www.zueritipp.ch for more information.

CLASSICAL CONCERTS 08.06 20:30 » TONHALLE ORCHESTRA OPEN-AIR CONCERT

For its 150th anniversary the Tonhalle Orchestra will perform a free open-air concert on Münsterplatz  (right next to Fraumünster Church), as part of the Zurich Festival. Conductor: Lionel Bringuier; piano:  Yuja Wang. Works by Edvard  Grieg,  Sergei Prokofiev  and  Maurice Ravel. QMünsterplatz, www.tonhalle-orchester.ch.

13.06 19:30 » ZURICH CHAMBER ORCHESTRA

Conductor: Willi Zimmermann; piano: Jan Lisiecki. Works by Felix Mendelssohn and Frédéric Chopin.QB-8, Tonhalle Maag, Zahnradstrasse 22, tel. (+41) 44 206 34 34, www.zko.ch.

09.07 19:00 » GALA CONCERT: ZURICH CHAMBER ORCHESTRA AND INTERNATIONAL OPERA STUDIO

The International Opera Studio is a support programme for young opera singers. Hear this year’s class in concert with the Zurich Chamber Orchestra. Conductor: CarrieAnn Matheson.QH‑14, Opernhaus, Falkenstrasse 1, 8Opernhaus / Stadelhofen, tel. (+41) 44 268 66 66, 15-75Sfr, www.zko.ch.

EXHIBITIONS 09.03 - 08.07 » MARGRITTE, DIETRICH, ROUSSEAU. VISIONARY OBJECTIVITY

The emergence of abstraction was a key process in the development of modern art. Yet artists deploying the stylistic resources of representation were also a major influence – as this exhibition demonstrates through a series of masterful works from the Kunsthaus collection. In the late 19th century, for example, Félix Vallotton captured the visible world with a precision worthy of the Old Masters, but also laid bare its fragility with the acuity of a psychologist. At the same time, the ‘naive’ autodidact Henri Rousseau depicted exquisitely neat, visionary worlds of the imagination. After World War I, representational description of the world at large took a different turn with ‘New Objectivity’ (examples include Adolf Dietrich). Even Surrealism (think René Magritte and Salvador Dalí) repeatedly drew on the resources of representational art to depict the unconscious.QH‑13, Kunsthaus, Heimplatz 1, 8Kunsthaus, tel. (+41) 44 253 84 84, www.kunsthaus.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.

02.02 - 23.09 » WHAT DOES SWITZERLAND EAT?

We buy and consume food on a daily basis, but where do our tomatoes, maize and strawberries really come from? Why do we use a knife and fork? What did people eat in the past and what will we eat in the future? Visitors will encounter a range of set tables, each one covering a specific topic of the exhibition’s rich spectrum including trends and taboos, provenance and production, dining culture and table manners, hunger and affluence, meat consumption For once, the Tonhalle Orchestra without their instruments. Paolo Dutto

20.06, 21.06, 22.06 19:30 » TONHALLE ORCHESTRA

Conductor: Bernard Haitink; violin: Frank Peter Zimmermann. Works by  Ludwig van Beethoven and  Robert Schumann. QB-8, Tonhalle Maag, Zahnradstrasse 22, tel. (+41) 44 206 34 34, 40-150Sfr, www.tonhalle-orchester.ch.

27.06, 28.06, 29.06 19:30 » TONHALLE ORCHESTRA

Conductor: Herbert Blomstedt; violin: Julia Fischer. Works by  Felix Mendelssohn and Gustav Mahler. Qwww.tonhalle-orchester.ch. 16 Zurich In Your Pocket

OPERA & BALLET The Zurich Opera is a magnificent building near the lake shore built in 1891 by Austrian architects Ferdinand Fellner and Hermann Helmer. Check out the programme on their website. You can also buy tickets on the opera’s webpage, by phone or at the ticket office on site. Plays are usually with German and English subtitles. The shows of the Zurich Ballet Company directed by Christian Spuck take place here too.QF‑5, Opernhaus, Falkenstrasse 1, 8Opernhaus/Stadelhofen, tel. (+41) 44 268 66 66, www.opernhaus.ch. zurich.inyourpocket.com


Culture & Events and the future of food. You’ll also see portraits of some of Switzerland’s leading chefs and famous cookbooks will reveal the significance of food preparation. Naturally, the main focus is on the culinary heritage of Switzerland. This includes classics such as fondue and muesli, but also lesserknown specialities from across of the country.QF‑10, National Museum (Landesmuseum), Museumstrasse 2, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 58 466 65 11, www.nationalmuseum.ch. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.

ZURICH FESTIVAL

02.03 - 30.09 » OÏPHORIE: ATELIER OÏ

To mark the opening of the refurbished main building of the Museum of Design, Swiss design agency atelier oï has staged several spacious installations in the large hall, which is now once again two stories high. The troika of the agency’s founding members lets visitors immerse themselves in an atmosphere suffused with light, colour and movement while creating a stage for the atelier’s multifaceted works. Its approach is interdisciplinary, international and spans all dimensions, from the coffee cup to the factory building. Its clients include Foscarini, Louis Vuitton, Nespresso  and  Röthlisberger and atelier oï also carries out self-initiated projects forever shaped by an interest in the manifold interrelations between materials, craftsmanship and form. Material studies, prototypes, products and pictures offer insights into both its  systematic and playful working methods.QE‑9, Museum für Gestaltung (Museum of Design), Ausstellungsstrasse 60, 8Museum für Gestaltung, admission 10/8Sfr, www.museum-gestaltung.ch.

31.05 - 02.09 » IMI KNOEBEL GUTEN MORGEN, WEISSES KÄTZCHEN

Internationally renowned artist Imi Knoebel (b. 1940 in Dessau, but currently living in Düsseldorf ) presents a large-scale show at Museum Haus Konstruktiv. Works that position Knoebel’s oeuvre in a dialogue with the historical legacy of constructivist, concrete and conceptual art have been selected for the exhibition. This includes key works, as well as pieces that were specially produced for this exhibition.QE‑12, Haus Konstruktiv, Selnaustrasse 25, 8Stauffacher, tel. (+41) 44 217 70 80, www.hauskonstruktiv.ch. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Wed 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.

Zürcher Festspiele

01.06 - 24.06 » FESTSPIELE ZURICH

The Zurich Festival presents the whole gamut of Zurich’s cultural life including opera, concerts, dance, drama and fine arts. There are any number of concerts, shows and plays every day at participating venues – we feature some highlights in our events calendar in the respective categories. The Festspiele takes place every other year. The 2018 edition entitled Schönheit / Wahnsinn (Beauty / Madness)  focuses on questions like: Why are we fascinated by true beauty? When does freedom become a compulsion? On June 2 the festival will kick off with the opening of the new festival centre on Münsterhof, where some free events will be held during the festival (e.g. June 8, 20:30 - Tonhalle Orchestra open-air concert). Another highlight will be the free open-air projection of the opera Land of Smiles  by the Zurich Opera on a big screen, which will take place on  Sechseläutenplatz, just in front of the Opera house (June 16, 20:00, free admission).Qwww.festspiele-zuerich.ch.

ROCK & POP CONCERTS 11.06 20:30 » EBO TAYLOR

The 82-year-old guitarist Ebo Taylor is the grand old man of Afro Funk. He has worked together with Afrobeat pioneer Fela Kuti and has significantly influenced the music of his homeland, Ghana. His sound is a gripping mix of highlife, Afrobeat and jazz with African rhythms and fat horn passages.QB‑7, Moods, Schiffbaustrasse 6, 8Schiffbau, 38Sfr, www.moods.club.

15.06 20:00 » LUCKY CHOPS

This wild, six-piece brass band from New York began to stir up the music scene in 2015 with spontaneous gigs on the New York subway. The result was millions of YouTube clicks. With their funky brass sound and cheeky covers they continue to cause a furore everywhere. Not to be missed!QF‑13, Kaufleuten, Pelikanstrasse 18, 8Sihlstrasse, 55-75Sfr, www.allblues.ch. Figura B, a 2018 work by Imi Knoebel.

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PD

June – July 2018 17


Culture & Events CINEMAS Zurich has more than a dozen cinemas, many of them with more than one screen and the large ones with up to 12 screens. Traditionally films in Switzerland are shown in their original language with German and French subtitles. But the big multiplex cinemas that have displaced some of the smaller ones in the last two decades have started to show more and more movies dubbed in German. In smaller cinemas you can still watch all movies in the original language – lots of them in English of course. They are marked with the letters Edf in the programmes (English with German (Deutsch) and French subtitles) - a D (capital) indicates the movie is spoken in German. ARTHOUSE MOVIE There are six Arthouse cinemas in Zurich, most of them in old buildings with charm and style. The Arthouse Movie we list is the only one with more than one screen, showing studio and independent movies rather than blockbusters, just as the other Arthouse cinemas. QG‑13, Nägelihof 4, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 250 55 10, www.arthouse.ch.

21.06 20:00 » VANCOUVER SLEEP CLINIC

A few words whispered, synthesiser streaks, synthetic drums, piano chords, elegiac choral songs and sometimes just rustling. The work of Tom Bettinson, aka Vancouver Sleep Clinic, has been described by some as a masterpiece. This is your chance to see him on stage.QRote Fabrik, Seestrasse 395, 8Post Wollishofen, 33Sfr, www.rotefabrik.ch.

22.06 20:00 » SHAKIRA

With more than 50 million records sold, the Colombian singersongwriter Shakira is the Queen of Latino pop rock music. QI‑1, Hallenstadion, Wallisellenstrasse 45, 8Messe/ Hallenstadion, 75-114Sfr, www.hallenstadion.ch.

23.06 20:00 » D’ANGELO

D’Angelo is a great musician and a stunning soul singer. His first two albums, Brown Sugar and Voodoo, shaped the neo-soul movement like no other with perhaps the noted exceptions of Erykah Badu and Lauryn Hill. His concerts are intense and ecstatic and his band has class and flexibility. QF‑13, Kaufleuten, Pelikanstrasse 18, 8Sihlstrasse, 80130Sfr, www.allblues.ch.

CORSO A four-screen multiplex at Bellevue. Screenings in the theatres holding between 120 and 750 spectators start in the afternoon. Mainly blockbuster movies in English language. To call it’s 1.50Sfr per call & min.QH‑14, Theaterstrasse 10, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) 900 556 789, www.kitag.ch. RIFFRAFF The RiffRaff is a lovely cinema with four screens just off Langstrasse - arthouse movies in original language, which is not necessarily English, are usually on the menu. If in doubt, ask at the cashier‘s. They also have two bars perfect for a drink before or after the movie. QD‑9, Neugasse 57, 8Limmatplatz, tel. (+41) 44 444 22 00, www.riffraff.ch.

20.06 20:00 » BRYAN ADAMS

For over three decades, Bryan Adams has thrilled millions of fans around the world with rock and pop songs and striking live performances. He is now touring with his band promoting his latest release, Ultimate. QI‑1, Hallenstadion, Wallisellenstrasse 45, 8Messe/ Hallenstadion, 85-99Sfr, www.hallenstadion.ch.

21.06 20:00 » JOVANOTTI

Jovanotti is one of Italy’s most successful pop singers. Always politically engaged, his songs are packed with socially critical ideas, declarations of love and positive thinking and his live performances are full of energy and good vibes!QI‑1, Hallenstadion, Wallisellenstrasse 45, 8Messe/ Hallenstadion, 85-99Sfr, www.hallenstadion.ch. 18 Zurich In Your Pocket

A genuine rock legend: Lenny Kravitz.

PD

27.06 20:00 » LENNY KRAVITZ

For over two decades Lenny Kravitz has thrilled millions of people with his blend of rock, pop, funk and soul. He is on tour promoting his new record Black and White America. QI‑1, Hallenstadion, Wallisellenstrasse 45, 8Messe/ Hallenstadion, 88-99Sfr, www.hallenstadion.ch.

09.07 20:00 » JOHN HIATT & THE GONERS

Thirty years ago singer-songwriter John Hiatt released his two most successful albums Slow Turning and Bring The Family. This is  reason enough for John Hiatt to celebrate this achievement with an extensive 30th anniversary tour. He’ll be touring with The Goners and slide guitar legend Sonny Landreth.QF‑13, Kaufleuten, Pelikanstrasse 18, 8Sihlstrasse, 75Sfr, www.allblues.ch. zurich.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants

Wooden tables and charcuterie hanging behind the bar. Welcome to Bottega Di Mario (see p. 28). | PD

Zurich has around 2,000 restaurants, bars and takeaways. No wonder you can find almost any kind of food imaginable: from down-to-earth Swiss to traditional Vietnamese, from Lebanese to Japanese and back again. But today many restaurants also cook in a mélange, international style and are not easily categorized. Nevertheless we have tried. We list the places we recommend within any particular category. For lunch, lots of restaurants offer special deals, usually considerably cheaper. Note that many restaurants close their kitchens between roughly 14:00 and 17:30 and in the evening at 22:00 or 23:00. For the evening we recommend you book a table. For more suggestions see www.zurich.inyourpocket.com.

LILY’S Freshly prepared Asian treats: from Thailand through Vietnam to China and Japan, and back to India. Not exactly the place for a long, cosy dinner with your friends but great for a quick, fresh and tasty meal - you’ll be seated on long benches in between other customers. If you get a seat close to the open kitchen you feel the heat when the chef flames some stuff in his wok. Try one of the curries Lily’s is famous for. No reservations.QD‑9, Langstrasse 197, 8Limmatplatz, tel. (+41) 44 440 18 85, www.lilys.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:30, Kitchen open througout until 1 hour before closing time. €. A­S

ASIAN BAN SONG THAI The Ban Song Thai sits in a small alley in the Niederdorf just under the Grossmünster church - and serves classic Thai food made from mostly organic ingredients and without any artificial flavour enhancers. Probably that‘s why the taste of the food here is authentic. On the menu there are soups, salads, fish, as well as rice- and Thai-noodle dishes and curries (even without coconut milk!). The Ban Song Thai has lots of fans in Zurich - that‘s why we recommend you book a table in advance. There is also a lunch buffet (all you can eat, 30Sfr).QG‑13, Kirchgasse 6, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 252 33 31, www.bansongthai.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:30, 17:30 - 23:00, Sat 17:30 - 23:00, Closed Sun, Kitchen open until 22:30. €€. J­A­B facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

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SYMBOL & PRICE KEY A Credit cards accepted

X Smoker lounge

J City centre location

N No credit cards

8 Nearest tram station

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€ €€ €€€ €€€€

most mains under 25Sfr most mains 25-40Sfr most mains 40-55Sfr most mains over 55Sfr June – July 2018 19


Restaurants LAKESIDE RESTAURANTS

Fischer’s Fritz

FISCHER’S FRITZ A restaurant on a campsite? Not exactly a guarantee for great food. Luckily though, at Fischer’s Fritz on Zurich’s only campsite it’s different. Local fish is the mainstay of the menu: whitefish, perk, pike and more, depending on what fisherman Adrian Gerny has caught. The fish come deep fried as knusperli in a crispy coat - we really liked it. There are nonfish options too, e.g. all-you-can-eat chicken wings (26.50Sfr). The pretty view of the city and the Alps here on the lakeshore makes it worth to visit for an afternoon drink too. Prices are also above campsite standard, but match the quality and service. Take bus N°161 from Bürkliplatz in direction of Kilchberg, stop Stadtgrenze. Or call them, they might pick you up with their boat.QSeestrasse 559, tel. (+41) 44 480 13 40, www.fischers-fritz.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 22:00. On sunny weekends open all day. €€. A­B QUAI 61 Part of the Quai 61 is actually built on the water, meaning you have a truly perfect view of the lake and the city here. Try to get a table by the huge windows (some of them can be opened in summer). The waiters are dressed like seamen, probably that’s why we feel like we’ve just set off on a cruise. The menu is small and features meat like schnitzel or cordon bleu and some fish options and pasta. No daring compositions, all rather simple but tasty, we must admit. Don’t forget to book a table. In good weather they have an outdoor area with a smaller menu and no reservations (open 11:30 - 23:30, Sat & Sun 12:00 - 23:30). On the upper floor there is a bar and a sun deck.QF‑16, Mythenquai 61, 8Rentenanstalt, tel. (+41) 44 405 61 61, www.quai61.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:30, 18:00 - 23:30, Sat 18:00 - 23:30, Sun 10:00 - 15:30 (brunch), Last orders 14:00 & 21:30. A­B 20 Zurich In Your Pocket

BURGERS CHILEES - KOREAN BURGER Although we have to admit that we’ve never been to the Korean Peninsula and therefore can’t judge the authenticity of these burgers, we can say that we enjoyed these tasty creations. The beef patty of the ramen burger we ordered was fried to a perfect medium (still a little pink on the inside) and instead of a bun it was placed between two firm nests of noodles. The toppings of kimchi (fermented, salted cabbage) and rocket salad also went well with the gochujang sauce. All of the burgers come with fries, so we chose the sweet potato option and were especially happy with their crispiness. Chilees has proven to be a success in Berlin and after some good showings at the Zurich Street Food Festival they’re now poised to conquer Zurich.QC‑5, Uetlibergstr. 22, 8Schmiede Wiedikon, tel. (+41) 44 461 01 02, www.facebook.com/chileeszurich. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 21:00, Closed Tue. €€. A­B HELVTI DINER BELLEVUE Helvti Diner’s burger concept is simple, and that’s probably one of the reasons why it’s so successful (this is its third location in town). You can customise your burger in four steps: first you choose the meat (Swiss premium, Angus, Wagyu or veggie), then the size (single or double), choose your add-ons like bacon, cheese or fried eggs and then decide on a sauce. Our burger was grilled medium and the meat was perfectly pink inside, just as we ordered it, but next time (and there will be a next time) we might order some guacamole for a little extra flavour. The service was quick and friendly.QH‑14, St. Urbangasse 4, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) 43 500 05 35, www.helvti-diner.ch. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 22:00, kitchen open until 23:00, Sun 22:00. €€. J­A

FINE DINING NEW BAUERNSCHÄNKE One of Zurich’s more remarkable recent openings, Bauernschänke offers fine dining in the casual atmosphere of an old town tavern. Award-winning chef

NEAR THE GROSSMÜNSTER „finest Provencal cuisine“ Nägelihof 3 8001 Zurich +41 44 250 59 40 commercio.ch arthouse.ch

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Restaurants Nenad Mlinarevic conjures up real delicacies, all served as plates to be shared. The braised celery with truffle jus and parmesan cheese was by far the best celery dish we’ve ever had and the grilled  asparagus with a Japanesestyle onsen egg served on an herbal vinaigrette was an exceptionally well-balanced composition. The deep fried and breaded poulard was crispy, yet incredibly tender and the chilli mayo gave it an unusual twist. For dessert we ordered a selection of cheeses and chocolate on an herb sorbet  – the latter a daring composition, with an incredibly intense herbal flavour. The service was also beyond reproach and all in all we had a great night out. Resrevations are essential.QG‑12, Rindermarkt 24, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 262 41 30, www. bauernschaenke.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00, Closed Sun. €€€. JA­B­

CHEESE RESTAURANTS

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The Swiss cheese specialities fondue and raclette originally come from the French-speaking areas of Switzerland. Fondue is a mix of melted cheese and white wine bubbling over a small burner which you dip bread cubes into, while raclette is pure melted cheese which is poured over boiled potatoes. The listed restaurants below are specialists. CHÄSALP Chäsalp is a former farm on top of Zürichberg, where fondue and raclette are now served in the ancient and

DIDI’S FRIEDEN At Didi’s you get exquisite cuisine in a calmly elegant atmosphere. Our evening took off splendidly with the hors d’oeuvres and then continued with the delightful fourcourse menu which is new every month (around 98Sfr). We had marinated king fish as starter followed by a tender piece of veal’s loin. Cooking and hospitality is a vocation here and the chocolate art-work on the dessert plates is just one of the proofs. Reservation recommended.QG‑10, Stampfenbachstrasse 32, 8Stampfenbachplatz, tel. (+41) 44 253 18 10, www.didisfrieden.ch. Open 11:00 - 14:30, 17:00 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. €€€. J­A­B

Read more reviews online: zurich.inyourpocket.com recently renovated stable. This gives you a kind of alpinehut experience, which makes the extra bit of travel up the hill well worth it. It’s usually quite busy with both locals and tourists, especially on Saturdays and Sundays, when they do a good brunch. While there are 17 different kinds of fondue on offer, we recommend sticking to the house blend or the classic moitié-moité (we very much liked both). They have meat and Swiss style pasta too, but remember, this is the Cheese Alp (Chäsalp), not the steak hut.QTobelhofstrasse 236, 8Tobelhof (Bus 751), tel. (+41) 44 260 75 75, www.chaesalp.ch. Open 11:30 14:30, 17:30 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:30, 17:30 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €€. A­B LE DÉZALEY For decades Le Dézaley has been dedicated to dishes from Vaud in western Switzerland. The fondue prepared according to a family recipe is very tasty and also comes in a version with morel mushrooms. A typical starter is airdried meat - or instead of fondue try one of the regional sausages.QG‑13, Römergasse 7/9, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 251 61 29, www.le-dezaley.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:30, 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun, kitchen open until 23:00. €€. J­A­B

like a mounta in cottage

Tobelhofstrasse 236 (+41) 44 260 75 75 chaesalp.ch

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Restaurants GUILD HOUSES Zurich’s guilds or zünfte are prestigious men’s clubs today, and many own a handsome mediaeval or early modern guild house in the old town where they meet. Quite a few of these guild houses are also restaurants which cultivate a traditional, refined cuisine.

The noble ambience of a guild house at Zum Grünen Glas.

PD

FRENCH MÈRE CATHERINE Mother Catherine’s menu majors in classics from Provence using plenty of fish, seafood, olives and rosemary. But she also does other French classics like onion soup or snails. Filled pasta like ravioles and cappelacci, usually homemade, are also standard features. The interior with uneven walls, dark tables and chequered tablecloths is pleasant and the kitchen reliable. The tiny bar Le Philosophe next door is good for a quiet drink.QG‑13, Nägelihof 3, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 250 59 40, www.commercio.ch. Open 11:30 - 24:00, kitchen open throughout until 22:15. €€. J­A­B STORCHEN One of the classics at the stately rôtisserie of the hotel Storchen is ravioli filled with veal with a sage sauce. Excellent, really! Its available as a starter too. They also do a good zürcher geschnetzeltes with rösti (sliced veal with hash browns). Actually you can’t go wrong with anything here, be it fish or meat. On top of the exquisite cuisine, there is a lovely big terrace just next to the river with a perfect view over the river.QG‑13, Weinplatz 2, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 227 27 27, www.storchen.ch. Open 11:45 - 24:00, kitchen open 11:45 - 14:00 & 18:00 - 21:30, in summer small menu all day until 22:30. €€€. J­A­B

ZUM GRÜNEN GLAS A little bit off the beaten track on the upper edge of Niederdorf, the Zum Grünen Glas offers notable Mediterranean-style cuisine in the noble atmosphere of an old guild house. The classic here is the beef tartar - it’s served either with basil and olives or Asian-style with wasabi and mango chutney. And yes, it’s very tasty. You will find fish, meat and some typical Zurich dishes like geschnetzeltes on the menu as well.QG‑13, Untere Zäune 15, 8Neumarkt, tel. (+41) 44 251 65 04, www.gruenesglas.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 17:30 - 23:00, Sat 17:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun, kitchen open until 22:00. €€. J­A­B ZUNFTHAUS ZUR ZIMMERLEUTEN The Zimmerleuten is one of the best-known guild houses in town. The Küferstube on the ground floor serves solid Swiss fare all day: classics like geschnetzeltes, bratwurst with rösti and some fish options too. And they serve a fondue outdoors on their terrace right on Limmatquai. The restaurant on the first floor is their pride: the atmosphere there is more upmarket and the food on offer a touch more sophisticated (e.g. geschnetzeltes with filet). The location has been completely rebuilt since it burnt down in 2007. Maybe you can even catch a glimpse of the fully wood panelled Zunftsaal, usually just open for banquets.QG‑13, Limmatquai 40, tel. (+41) 44 250 53 63, www.zunfthaus-zimmerleuten.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 23:30, kitchen closes 22:00. Küferstube open 11:30 - 23:30 (kitchen closes 22:30). €€€. J­A­B

ITALIAN COMMERCIO While the heyday of Italian cinema may be over, this small ristorante brings cinema and italianità together in the most charming way. It stays lively well into the night,

THE CLASSIC ITALIAN RESTAURANT

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Restaurants

A restaurant with a long history and a short name: Italia.

PD

ITALIA Simple, unspectacular, but nevertheless outstanding Italian cooking. Start with a misto salumi, a selection of the almost twenty Italian sausages in stock, then continue with some pasta (we recommend linguine nere con gamberi, panna e pomodori - black pasta with shrimps, cream and tomatoes) as a first dish and then choose the galeton al diavolo (chicken on hot sauce, not always available) - or skip the pasta and leave some space for sweets. The Italia is a wine lovers paradise: there are 24 different wines served by the glass. The futuristic wine tasting machine makes sure the wines don’t oxidise and the quality stays perfect.QD‑11, Zeughausstrasse 61, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. (+41) 43 233 88 44, www.ristorante-italia.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 24:00, Sat, Sun 18:00 - 23:00, kitchen open until 22:00, Thu - Sat until 22:30. €€. A­B VAPIANO At Vapiano, the food is prepared as you watch. You order right from the chefs at the open kitchen, and once your freshly made pasta, salad or antipasto (all prepared on site) is ready, you take it straight to your seat. If you order a pizza, you’ll get a pager which will buzz for your attention when it comes out of the oven. All your orders are conveniently charged to a plastic card, you pay when you leave. The Vapiano concept is a success in 28 countries, and we do like the relaxed atmosphere and the fresh food à la minute. In Zurich you’ll find a second Vapiano at Sihlcity shopping centre (Kalanderplatz 9).QH‑14, Rämistrasse 8, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) 44 252 00 62, www.ch.vapiano. com. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00, kitchen open all day, last orders 30 minutes before closing time. €. J­A­B facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

VEGETARIAN & VEGAN TIBITS The bounteous vegetarian buffet is the focal point of tibits - where everybody queues up to choose from around 40 home-made salads, hot daily specials, soups, sandwiches and sweets. It’s more than plain tasty, believe us. tibits is very popular for lunch, dinner or coffee with all kinds of people. Sister restaurant ‘tibits im NZZ bistro’ around the corner at Falkenstrasse 12, (+41) 44 260 32 12 (Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00). QH‑15, Seefeldstrasse 2, 8Opernhaus, tel. (+41) 44 260 32 22, www.tibits.ch. Open 06:30 - 23:30, Fri 06:30 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:30, food served until 30 min before closing. (buffet, 4.20Sfr (take away 3.70Sfr) per 100 grams). J­A­B­S­ ROOTS Vegan food is the trend of the hour and Roots makes it easy to fall in love with this meatless cuisine. Our superfresh protein bowl was a firecracker of flavours that included layers of quinoa, sweet potatoes, broccoli and more, all perfectly blended with a cashew lime dressing. In addition to its different food bowls it also serves sandwiches and soups. The hip city centre crowd loves it.QF‑11, Lintheschergasse 15, 8Bahnhofstrasse/ HB, www.rootsandfriends.com. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. J­A W

thanks also to the visitors of the Arthouse studio cinemas right next door. Surrounded by Art Deco elements, guests squeeze into the slightly tight seats to enjoy a plate of pasta, something the Commercio has got off to a fine art. QH‑14, Mühlebachstrasse 2, 8Stadelhofen, tel. (+41) 44 250 59 30, www.commercio.ch. Open 06:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00, kitchen open throughout until 23:00. €€. J­A­B

GETTING THE BEST OUT OF FRUIT AND VEGETABLES.

Vegetarian & Vegan Restaurant Bar Take Away Catering Seefeldstr.2|Falkenstr.12 next to the Opera House, Zurich www.tibits.ch|www.tibits.co.uk

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Restaurants didn’t impress as much as the appetisers. Nevertheless, we had a pleasant evening in this old town tavern.QG‑12, Stüssihofstatt 16, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 43 535 20 89, www.zumgrobeernst.com. Open 11:00 - 14:15, 18:00 22:30, Sat 16:30 - 23:00, Closed Sun. €€. A­B­J

KREIS 5 LOVES YOOJI’S JOSEF

Located at the heart of the trendy Kreis 5, the Yooji’s Josef is always the right place to enjoy freshly-prepared sushi creations on the terrace or an exquisite cocktail at the sake bar.

JAPANESE MIKI RAMEN Miki Ramen is an adorable, simply decorated small venue where the Japanese ramen noodles are homemade and firm. The broth of our miso ramen was flavourful and salty and the extra egg and spring onions weren’t just there for decoration. You can sit on small tables or on a kind of bar directly facing the kitchen, where you can watch how your meal is prepared. For lunch you might have to queue, but in the evening it takes reservations.QB‑11, Sihlfeldstrasse 63, 8Lochergut, tel. (+41) 44 450 37 76, www.miki-ramen.ch. Open 11:45 - 14:30, 18:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 -23:00, Sun 18:00 - 23:00, kitchen closes 14:00 & 22:00. €. A­B

YOOJI’S JOSEF Josefstrasse 112 | 8005 Zürich +41 44 271 73 73 josef@yoojis.ch | yoojis.com  Yoojis.Deli |  yoojis_sushi

NEW ZUM GROBE ERNST - LA TAVOLATA The speciality here is Sardinian tavolata, an Italian-style sharing plate concept, which we tried and didn’t regret. The selection of starters we got looked great, but tasted even better. It was a genuine demonstration of the diversity of Sardinian cuisine. The aubergine au gratin with eggs was delightful, the mozzarella di buffala with tomatoes was incredibly fresh and the pulpo  (octopus) was firm and not at all rubbery. This was followed by great pasta with salsiccia  (sausage) and  saffron. This prelude  set our expectations quite high for the main courses, which is why the lamb with potatoes and the sea bass, satisfied but

RESTAURANT

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Bellevue · Rämistr. 8 / Sihlcity · Kalanderplatz www.vapiano.ch % 044 252 00 62 % 044 201 15 25

24 Zurich In Your Pocket

The miso ramen at Mikki Ramen sure is tasty.

ZIYP

YOOJI’S BELLEVUE No matter if you prefer your sushi as a proper dinner at a table, a quick eat at the bar or to take away: the five Yooji’s in Zurich are a safe bet for Japanese food. This one at Bellevue has a gallery where you can sit at tables above the bar, maybe a good place to order some of the more daring sushi creations. You can pick the traditional ones from the conveyor belt while sitting at the bar. By the way: over 80% of the fish is from sustainable sources. There are six Yooji’s in Zurich: one in the Seefeld district (Seefeldstrasse 115), one close to Langstrasse (Josefstrasse 112), one on Bahnhofstrasse (Bahnhofstrasse 112), one at the main train station (basement floor) and one close to Paradeplatz (Beethovenstrasse 32).QH‑14, St. Urbangasse 8, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) 44 253 11 11, www.yoojis.ch. Open 11:00 - 23:00, kitchen open until 22:00. J­A­B

MEDITERRANEAN LES HALLES This garage-style restaurant offers mostly organic food from around the Mediterranean with a particularly French touch. The ever fresh moules et frites (mussels with French fries) are what a lot of people come here for, or the tasty beef zurich.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants tartar. The restaurant works like a market hall: you place your order at the kitchen corner and it‘s served to your table. It’s always very busy and loud - so come here rather for the outstanding fresh food and the industrial style than for a quiet evening with your significant other. There is also a delicatessen in the back.QB‑8, Pfingstweidstrasse 6, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 273 11 25, www.les-halles.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 02:00. Closed Sun, kitchen open until 13:45/22:00, Sat 18:00 - 22:00, snacks & tapas througout. €€. A­B

ORIENTAL NENI Neni is the restaurant of the posh 25hours hotel and it serves Mediterranean and Middle Eastern specialities. The paneer curry with rice we chose was a touch spicy, but the green onions, the nuts and the plums made it quite refreshing. The paneer was perfectly fried, had some bite and, best of all, wasn’t rubbery, which often happens at other restaurants. In addition to a handful of main courses, Neni also serves mezes (Near Eastern tapas) like hummus, baba ganoush and more of what they call balagan (Hebrew for chaos). The interior of lamps that look like colourful straw hats and lots of plants is perhaps overly playful, so you’ll probably either love it or hate it. Its sister restaurant can be found in Zurich West at Pfingstweidstrasse 102 (A-7).QD‑10, Langstrasse 150, 8Sihlpost / HB, tel. (+41) 44 576 50 05, www.neni.ch. Open 06:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 07:30 - 24:00. €€. A­B

Moules et Frites

An open-kitchen producing oriental specialities at Neni.

PD

STEAKS & BARBECUE GAUCHO You just have to love the Gaucho - except if you’re vegetarian, perhaps. The small restaurant with its walls plastered with dozens of framed paintings, pictures and other bits and pieces is just plain likeable. The Argentinian beef they major in comes straight from the charcoal grill, our entrecôte was tender and bursting with taste. The chimchurri sauce that accompanied it was genuine with loads of freshly chopped parsely. They import the beef themselves by the way, which probably explains the outstanding quality.QC‑10, Nietengasse 18, 8Bäckeranlage, tel. (+41) 44 321 18 18, www.gaucho.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:30 - 23:00, Sat 18:30 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Sun. €€€. AB

c´est chic.

Mediterranean bar/restaurant/market hall, located at the heart of the culture and night-life district of Zurich West. Reservations: 044-273 11 25 or www.les-halles.ch facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

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Restaurants SWISS CUISINE What the Swiss like to eat at home and when out is ­ heavily influenced by their neighbours’ cuisine, especially the Italians. But what is real Swiss cuisine? Most Swiss would probably say: käsefondue (cheese fondue), a hot soup of cheese and white wine eaten by dunking cubes of bread in it. Delicious, but the smell can take getting used to. Raclette is another cheese speciality, melted cheese on potatoes served with different pickles and sides. Würste or sausages are also very Swiss, the bratwurst (usually veal) and cervelat (pork) being the most common. Züri gschnätzlets is a traditional Zurich dish, thin strips of veal cooked in a cream sauce, often with mushrooms. This is often served with rösti, a cake of fried grated potatoes, a bit like Spanish tortilla but also on the list of Swiss traditionals. Switzerland also has an impressive range of breads to go with the cheeses, e.g. the rich zopf (plaited loaf ) is a favourite for Sunday breakfasts. Fondue chinoise and fondue bourgignonne are not traditionally Swiss, strictly speaking, but these two meat fondues are very popular too. Both involve dipping meat into a pot, full of either hot broth (chinoise) or oil (bourgignonne) and then enjoying with a range of sauces and sides.

Offers hearty traditional Swiss cuisine at affordable prices. Centrally located on Bahnhofstrasse at Paradeplatz.

A place for carnivores: Butchers Table.

PD

NEW BUTCHERS TABLE At the Butchers Table it’s all about the meat, be it beef, Black Iberian pork or veal. Choose your meat at the display counter, but don’t be afraid to ask for a private consultation from the butcher himself. He convinced us to pick the so-called ‘second cuts’ of beef, which are essentially less common  pieces (at least around here), instead of the more popular tenderloins and fillets. We have to admit that the outside skirt and  the hanging tender we chose were quite flavourful and surprisingly tender. The pieces you choose are grilled and then brought to your table on a wooden cutting board to share (pay by weight). The Butchers Choice Deal includes a bowl of salad, and a side of fries and vegetables and even some cooked marrow as a tasty starter. The bone shot (after the marrow is removed, the waiter pours some vodka through a bone directly into your mouth) is more like a test of your gag reflex than anything else, but it certainly spiced up our evening. All in all, this is a stylish new option for carnivores like us.QJ‑16, Neumünsterstrasse 34, 8Hegibachplatz, tel. (+41) 44 577 56 88, www.butcherstable.ch. Open 11:45 - 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00, Closed Mon, Sun, butchery open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun, Mon closed. €€€. A­B

SWISS As it’s sometimes hard to tell what Swiss cuisine really is (see Swiss cuisine overleaf ), we list some traditional restaurants here as well as some that interpret Swissness in a modern way. If you want to try the Swiss cheese specialities fondue and raclette, see the box on p. 21. We list the traditional Zurich beer halls in a separate category overleaf. They serve generous helpings of earthy local food - definitely not a bad way to explore Swiss cuisine either. open daily for reservations

26 Zurich In Your Pocket

11.30 – 23.00 +41 (0) 44 220 15 15 www.zeughauskeller.ch

MOHRENKOPF This is a pleasant place in plain style for Swiss fare, coffee and snacks or breakfast in the Niederdorf area, frequented by tourists and locals alike. The menu offers classics like chalbsgschnäzlets (veal in bite-size pieces) with rösti zurich.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants (hash browns) as well as more unusual dishes like capuns, an Alpine speciality of sausage and dumpling wrapped in chard leaves. Try them, they’re a treat. If you fancy a sweet to round off the meal, try a mohrenkopf, a chocolate covered marshmallow that gave the restaurant its name. QG‑12, Niederdorfstrasse 31, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. (+41) 44 262 05 45, www.mohrenkopf.info. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00, kitchen open non-stop until 22:00. €€. J­A­B NEW ENZIAN The baked goat cheese served on a  caponata (cooked vegetable salad) convinced us that Enzian isn’t your average Swiss restaurant. The cheese was flavourful and perfectly baked – crispy on the outside and molten on the inside. A fresh salad with three different homemade sauces was included as a starter for lunch, but you can of course sample many of its Swiss classics like Bratwurst, Ghackets  with Hörnli (minced meat with pasta) and Geschnetlzletes. That said, although we’re happy to sing the praises of its chefs, the interior design was underwhelming. The designer lamps and the odd panels dividing the basement and the gallery simply didn’t fit in one space, but perhaps you’ll disagree. Enzian is run by a foundation aiming to create jobs for people with special needs. It seems to have succeeded as the service was pleasant and attentive.QG‑12, Niederdorfstrasse 30, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 310 10 90, www.stiftung-enzian.ch. 09:00 - 22:00. €. A­J­B­

Mohrenkopf in the busy heart of Niederdorf.

PD

NEW HUUSBEIZ We had a splendid evening at Huusbeiz and the cucumber starter had us convinced from the get go. Not only did the gin and cucumber sorbet served on a cold cucumber peel look great, it was also a great pairing. For the main course we tried the pork belly plated over a variety of beans and green apples. The pork was crispy, a little sweet and bursting with flavour and we finished our meal with a superb chocolate mousse. We like the nose to tail approach of the kitchen crew, but at Huusbeiz  it’s not just the food that’s great. Host Nicolas and the wait staff offered impeccable service and the atmosphere is down to earth, just the way we like it.QA‑11, Badernerstrasse 310, 8Zypressenstrasse, tel. (+41) 43 931 77 90, www.huusbeiz.ch. Open 18:00 24:00, Closed Sun. €€. A

niederdorfstrasse 31 — 8001 zürich

continuing a tradition

since 1981

www.mohrenkopf.info facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

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Restaurants BEER HALLS BRASSERIE FEDERAL This is a beer lover’s paradise: More than 100 different Swiss beers are sold in this huge hall situated inside the main train station. You can try seven at one blow: for 10.50Sfr the waiter will serve you seven beers from the tap in small glasses (1dl). Food is Swiss-style, hearty and served fast: pasta with minced meat, bratwurst or rösti with bacon and raclette cheese.QF‑11, Bahnhofplatz 15, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 44 217 15 15, www. brasserie-federal.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00, kitchen open until 22:30. €. J­A KRONENHALLE The Kronenhalle is Zurich’s most legendary restaurant: top bankers, artists, authors, editors-in-chief and celebrities come to the famous brasserie on Bellevueplatz as well as a mix of (well-dressed) ordinary people. Lots of dark wood and original paintings by Mirò and Picasso on the walls give the brasserie its classic, yet old-fashioned look. The food (schnitzel with cucumber salad, bouillon with liver dumplings) is good to be sure, if a bit pricey, but many people simply come here to see and be seen. There is a salon for private dinners and a cocktail bar.QG‑14, Rämistrasse 4, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) 44 262 99 00, www.kronenhalle.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, kitchen open until 23:15. €€€€. J­A­X NEW LA BOTTEGA DI MARIO With wooden tables and salami and prosciutto  hanging behind the bar, this place certainly looks genuine.  It specialises in delicacies from the southern, Italian-speaking Swiss canton of Ticino and you’ll find all the cold cuts from the Ticinese  company Mario Rapelli here. These specialities are perfect for an aperitivo  during or after your Bahnhofstrasse shopping tour and you can choose from a variety of different meat platters with hearty salame, mortadella, prosciutto and the like. They also do paninis and focaccia  as well as some pastas, risotto,

OASIS ON ZÜRIBERG Tobelhofstrasse 236 (+41) 44 251 11 93 tobelhof.ch 28 Zurich In Your Pocket

spring chickens and even roasts. The shared platters are charged per person, so to avoid confusion make sure you tell the waiter how many people will be eating.QF‑13, Nüschelerstrasse 6, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 227 19 22, www.labottegadimario.ch. Open 11:30 - 23:00, Closed Sun. €€. A­J­B TOBELHOF Located in an old farmhouse on Zürichberg on the edge of town, Tobelhof serves traditional Swiss food in the rustic atmosphere of a country inn. The local speciality geschnetzeltes with rösti was excellent: the small pieces of veal were tender, the cream sauce had a pleasant consistency and the rösti (hash browns) was crispy and firm. We were a little more daring in our choice of appetiser and tried the oxtail duo (the fried oxtail was truly divine, crispy and flavourful, but the clear broth could have been a touch stronger). The service was attentive and the iced coffee for dessert was sweet and delicious. In the summer it also offers a gorgeous terrace and getting there is easier than you might think. Take tram 5 or 6 (12 minutes from main station) to Kirche Fluntern and then bus 751 will drop you off  right in front of the restaurant  in only five minutes.QTobelhofstrasse 236, tel. (+41) 44 251 11 93, www.tobelhof.ch. Open 09:00 - 24:00. €€. A­B

Dining amidst Picassos and Miròs at Kronenhalle.

Zurich Tourism

ZEUGHAUSKELLER The Zeughauskeller (the arsenal) is situated in a mediaeval arsenal right on Bahnhofstrasse and serves good solid traditional Swiss fare: generous helpings of meat, sausages, schnitzel and roast. Popular with tourists, locals and lads out for the night, it’s a place where it’s easy to get to know people, as you share the big tables with other guests. Old military devices standing around are there to remind you where you are. So don’t get too drunk, or you might end up getting conscripted.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 28a, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 220 15 15, www.zeughauskeller.ch. Open 11:30 - 23:00, Kitchen open until 22:00. €. J­A­B

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Cafés Cafés in Zurich generally serve coffee Italian style (from ristretto to cappuccino) and many draw on the rich Swiss tradition of pastry and chocolate making. But there is no fixed definition of a café, most also serve alcoholic beverages, other snacks or even full meals and many double as bars in the evening rather than closing.

the hot and cold sharing plates on offer. We, however, also like it just fine in the evening for a beer or two. Just recently the local electronic radio station rudfunk.fm even made it a party location by broadcasting live from Kraftwerk for a month.QE‑12, Selnaustrasse 25, 8Stauffacher/Bahnhof Selnau. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Closed Sat, Sun. A­K

CAFÉ DES AMIS Not too far from Limmatplatz and still within the reach of a Zurich visitor, the Café des Amis is a relaxed place for breakfast on weekdays or a long brunch on the weekend. It is popular with urbanistas of all ages, much in contrary to the many venues that tried their luck before at this location. In the evening it’s a venue for chilling with a drink at the bar.QF‑7, Nordstrasse 88, 8Limmatplatz, tel. (+41) 43 536 93 81, www.desamis.ch. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 -24:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. A­B

LA STANZA This popular Italian-style coffee bar close to Paradeplatz offers excellent coffee as well as a variety of Mediterranean liquors, wines and drinks - and the local beer Paul on tap. The rather well-dressed customers sit on the window benches and sip on their sprizz (a mixture of prosecco and aperol liquor) served by the stylish black-tied owners. The stone bar and the huge steaming coffee machine (a 1963 Faema) in the back make the Italian experience perfect. Pasta and Italian snacks available, Italian sweets for breakfast.QF‑13, Bleicherweg 10, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 43 817 62 82, www.lastanza.ch. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Thu 07:00 - 24:00, Fri 07:00 - 01:30, Sat 08:30 - 01:30, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. J­A­B

Café des Amis has a classic café interior.

Florian Kalotay

HENRICI With the colourful jumble of tables and chairs, local graffiti art on the wall and its young staff, the Henrici has the cosy feel of a backpacker’s paradise. The wide range of food and drinks is crowned by the outstanding coffee. Apart from the classics like cappuccino or espresso, there are iced coffees, coffee cocktails and a selection of special blends. Foodwise they offer quiches and flammkuchen, a kind of Alsacian pizza with sour cream topping, among cookies and cakes from the in-house bakery. And as café and bar, it’s a good place for a drink at any time of day.QG‑12, Niederdorfstrasse 1, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 251 54 54, www.cafe-henrici.ch. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Mon 08:00 - 22:00, Fri 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. J­A­B NEW KRAFTWERK This former power station not too far from the main station is now a co-working space,  a café/restaurant and a bar. Some old freight containers have been placed in its big hall, dividing it in two sections and these containers contain rooms that can be rented for workshops and the like. One part of the big hall serves as a café, bar and restaurant making good use of the surrounding old, industrial charm. During the daytime it’s the perfect place to get some work done on your laptop or just to have a coffee, but don’t overlook facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

PÉCLARD IM SCHOBER What looks from outside like a small, simple pastry shop is in fact one of the city’s oldest coffeehouses. Get a seat on one of the tables scattered over the various storeys of this old-town-house and let the waiter serve you coffee or a hot chocolate together with one of the sweet sins you can choose from the display cabinet by the entrance. Though it‘s not run by the Schober family anymore, stepping in here is a little trip back in time to the belle epoque.QG‑13, Napfgasse 4, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 251 51 50, www.peclard-zurich.ch. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Fri 08:00 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. J­A­B

BREAKFAST Sunday breakfast is an institution in many Swiss families. Zopf is one of the mainstays of Swiss breakfasts, a rich white bread baked in the shape of a braid, which is served with butter, jam, honey, cheeses or cold meats. Swiss bakeries bake a huge variety of breads rye bread, corn bread or potato-and-walnut bread to name just a few - which add to the breakfast spread. Buttery croissants, called gipfeli in Swiss German, are also a favourite. Another breakfast dish with strong roots in Switzerland is müesli, made of oat flakes, grated apple, ground hazelnuts and yogurt in the classic birchermüesli version. Here are some of our favourite breakfast places: MAISON BLUNT, for an excellent brunch with an oriental touch. Every day until 16:00. QD-9, Gasometerstrasse 5, www.maison-blunt.ch HAUS HILTL, an ample vegetarian breakast buffet daily until 10:30, Sat until 11:30. On Sundays brunch 09:30 - 14:30.QF-12, Sihlstrasse 28, www.hiltl.ch June – July 2018 29


Nightlife Zurich’s nightlife offers classy clubs, casual and alternative bars, as well as live-music venues and strip clubs. On the weekend people from almost half of Switzerland come to the city to have a good time. The main nightlife areas are Niederdorf in the old town (G-11/13), the streets around Langstrasse (C/D-10/11) and Zurich West (B/C-7/8). There is a lively club scene - but with dozens of bars around, barhopping can be just as much fun. A night out in Zurich can be great, but quite expensive. If you’re heading for bars and clubs have some cash handy, as still not all venues take credit cards. If you prefer it on the quiet side, there are wine and cocktail bars in the old town and around Paradeplatz. Check out our listings. For more recommendations check www.zurich.inyourpocket.com

At Fat Tony’s, mounted flamingos greet everyone from behind the bar. Zurich Tourism

CASUAL BARS NEW ELISABURG This district bar feels so homey, it could just as well be your living room. Wooden tables, comfy armchairs and old school table lamps set the mood and the friendly bartender is yet another reason to start your evening here. Order one of the craft beers or perhaps a proper cocktail and plan the rest of your night. And who knows, you might even decide to stay, because you always feel so at ease here that it’s often hard to leave. DJs occasionally ply their trade later at night and you can order some Flammkuchen (Alsatian pizza) if you feel peckish.QC‑12, Elisabethenstrasse 3, 8Bahnhof Wiedikon, tel. (+41) 44 291 96 96. Open 18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:00, Closed Mon, Sun. A FAT TONY Two mounted flamingos greet you from their perch high above the bar and between them is the mushroom cloud of an atomic explosion with the words ‘That’s all folks’ in neon. Welcome to the extravagant Fat Tony. That said, Tony seems like a friendly guy and the plants hanging from the ceiling only add to his cosiness. He’s certainly not a bad host and a good first stop on a night out in the Langstrasse nightlife district. Start with some mexikanerli, affordable spicy tomato vodka shots that are the signature drink of the guys who run the place. After a few of those you’ll be ready to dance the crazy chicken in the Gonzo Club run by the same 30 Zurich In Your Pocket

SYMBOL KEY A Credit cards accepted

N No credit cards

E Concerts

K Restaurant

J City centre location X Separate smoker’s lounge

owners in the cellar of the building. American-style pizza is also available.QD‑10, Langstrasse 135, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. (+41) 44 291 68 75,www.fat-tony.ch. Open 08:00 - late, Sat 10:00 - late. Closed Sun. A SPLENDID PIANO BAR Every night for more than 35 years now the pianist has been entertaining the crowd here - well, it’s been maybe more than one musician. The Splendid in the centre of the Niederdorf district attracts people with all kind of backgrounds. Many have been around a lot longer than this bar, but youngsters pass by too while bar hopping in the area. This makes the Splendid a lively place at night. If you come late, just join in with the guests when the pianist starts to sing one of those evergreens.QG‑12, Rosengasse 5, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. (+41) 44 252 58 50, www.splendidpianobar.ch. Open 17:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 04:00, Closed Sun. A WIDDER GARAGE The Widder Garage was set up as the temporary home of the Widder Bar while it was being renovated. And while the original bar is quite upmarket, the Garage is like a younger brother: cheekier and more daring, but from the same good family. The bar in this former old town garage is actually made of pianos, the beers are cooled in a bathtub and hundreds of vinyl records on the shelves lend it a retro touch that we absolutely love. But make no mistake: the service and the cocktails are just as good as at the original location and many of the single malts and rare spirits for which the Widder is so famous are also available here. The original Widder has since reopened, but the Garage will continue to impress its patrons.QF‑13, Augustinerhof 1, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 224 27 72, www.widderhotel.com. Wed, Thu 18:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:00, Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. A

CRAFT BEER BARS THE ALEHOUSE With 21 different craft beers on draught and on the hand pump, Alehouse is one of the best-stocked bars of its genre in town. You’re guaranteed to find a brew that suits you here, be it a hoppy IPA, a Belgian amber or perhaps a chocolate stout. A good number of the beers on offer also happen to be local, but you’ll find a complete list of what’s currently available on its website. The bartender is usually happy to give you a taster before ordering and the pub-like atmosphere is a favourite of students and expats, many of zurich.inyourpocket.com


Nightlife whom speak English. If you feel the need to strap on the old feedbag, they also do classic bar fare like burgers, fish and chips, chicken and salads.QH‑10, Universitätstrasse 23, 8ETH/Universitätsspital, tel. (+41) 44 542 87 45, www.alehouse.ch. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:30 - 24:00, Sun 11:30 - 22:00. A­B THE INTERNATIONAL This bar is dedicated to craft beers from small breweries. They have a great choice of around 50 different ones from all around Switzerland on offer, and another 50 from around the world, many from Belgium, the US and Canada. Around 10 are on tap. The huge board on the wall behind the bar lists them grouped by types, like India pale ales, stouts, amber etc. to help you choose. Or tell the barkeeper what taste you like and he will be happy to help. Despite the many Swiss beers, lots of expats are regulars here. While the bar looked a touch too sterile when they opened, it now has the feel of a proper beer joint. You love craft beers? You will like it here.QD‑9, Luisenstrasse 7, 8Röntgenstrasse, tel. (+41) 79 345 78 72, www.theinternational.ch. Open 16:00 - 24:00. A

CLASSY BARS OLD CROW The range of bottles behind the bar is truly impressive - over 1,150 spirits, apparently. The barkeepers are real aficionados, particularly regarding whisky, and some of the rarities on offer are from the private collection of one of them. Their bar has something of an English cottage seen from the street, inside the soft lighting, the mediaeval stone arch and the green leather benches make for a calm atmosphere. That means you can take your time to choose a cocktail, for instance a beer cocktail. If you need advice, the well-dressed staff will be glad to help. No reservations. QG‑12, Schwanengasse 4, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 43 233 53 35, www.oldcrow.ch. Open 17:00 - 00:30. Closed Sun. A

CASINO SWISS CASINOS ZÜRICH More than 350 slot machines and the table games roulette, black jack, punto banco and texas hold’em poker on two floors make this casino the largest in Switzerland. The stakes on the table games set in at 2 Sfr – with practically no upper limit. For your physical well-being there are two bars and a lounge. The casino also has a smoker’s section. To get access you need to be at least 18 years old, well dressed and have a valid ID card or passport with you. The entrance fee is 10 CHF after 19:00.QE‑12, Gessnerallee 3-5, 8Stauffacher / Sihlstrasse, tel. (+41) 43 330 30 30, www.swisscasinos.ch. Open 11:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 05:00, table games start at 14:00. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

The next creation coming up at the Old Crow.

PD

TINA BAR This old-school smoker’s bar on the first floor of Brasserie Louis has been gently renovated, but still exudes much of the charm of a bar from the good old days. The dark wooden bar and the green leather benches are simply timeless. The crowd here is rather well-groomed and some look like they’ve been regulars for decades, but they don’t seem to mind guests who are younger and maybe a little hipper than themselves.QG‑12, Niederdorfstrasse 10, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. (+41) 44 250 76 86, www.tina-bar.ch. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Thu 17:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. A­X

COCKTAIL BARS 4 TIERE 4 Tiere impressed us with outstanding service and excellent cocktails. We were warmly welcomed by the waitress who naturally took our coats before seating us. A glass of water and a bowl of nuts were served before we chose our drinks. More than 100 different gins and gin cocktail variations are listed on the menu, but we started with a Lemongrass Colllins. The smashed lemongrass added a pleasant citrus flavour and the composition was well balanced. For our second round we chose a drink from the section labelled ‘forgotten cocktails’. The Ford from 1896 was strong and a little bitter, but an excellent choice nonetheless.QC‑11, Feldstrasse 61, 8Bäckeranlage, tel. (+41) 44 240 00 88, www.viertiere.ch. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon, Sun. A TALES At this bar they really are dedicated to the fine art of making cocktails. And yes, think way further than a classy Old Fashioned. The cocktail list is bound in fine leather and features fancy variations of the recent trend of cocktails with kitchen herbs as well as classics and variations. But you can also just tell the barkeepers (and owners) Michel and Wolfgang the style of cocktail and kind of tastes you like, and they will surprise you with one of their creations. A classy bar for cocktail lovers. And who isn’t one these days?QE‑12, Selnaustrasse 29, 8Stauffacher, tel. (+41) 44 542 38 02, www.tales-bar.ch. Open 18:00 - 03:00, Sat 20:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. A June – July 2018 31


Nightlife DANCE BARS KAUZ This is a real gem of a place. The 70s style crystal lamps and the projections on the walls give it a retro touch, the DJ sits cosily on a sofa, everything is just very smooth here. And the revellers are not as young as elsewhere. It’s quite a challenge finding this underground-style club in a basement though, as there is no outside sign at all. So here come the tips: just enter the black door next to the big metal gate with a ‘no parking’ sign on it. The building is located just next to the bus terminal behind the main train station. And yes, we think it’s totally worth looking for!QF‑10, Ausstellungsstrasse 21, 8Sihlquai/ Hauptbahnhof, www.kauzig.ch. Open Fri & Sat 23:00 late. Check its website before you go.

ALTERNATIVE BARS GRÄBLI BAR This very original bar in the Niederdorf is not for the faint hearted. It’s one of the few in town which are open almost 24/7 - at least it has never ever been closed, no matter what hour we passed through. The clientele here is rather senior, very drunk later on and there are usually a few weirdoes around too. But don’t worry, the bartenders usually have everyone under control. An interesting place for a very last drink, although that’s probably the one you should

LIVE MUSIC Zurich offers all kinds of live music: jazz, pop, rock, metal, indie, gothic and much more. You will find bands playing somewhere every night of the week. The clubs and bars listed here focus on live music - we tell you what you can usually expect. Some are just open if there is a concert. For their daily programme, check the websites - or find all concerts on www.zueritipp.ch. EXIL National and foreign bands from indie rock through folk to electro, often hip hop and urban music, live on stage almost every night of the week. After-parties until late.QB‑8, Hardstrasse 245, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 43 366 86 84, www.exil.cl. X MEHRSPUR This is the music club and bar of the Zurich University of the Arts. It features a bar on the ground level and a subterranean concert hall. They usually have concerts on many days of the week and on Fri & Sat there are sometimes after-show parties.QA‑7, Förrlibuckstrasse 109, 8Toni Areal, tel. (+41) 43 446 50 76, www.mehrspur.ch. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Mon 16:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 01:00, Sat 20:00 - 01:00, Closed Sun. 32 Zurich In Your Pocket

Clubbing for night owls and other birds at Kauz.

PD

have done without.QG‑11, Gräbligasse 1, 8Central, tel. (+41) 44 251 95 95. Closed 04:00 - 05:00 & 08:00 - 11:00, Fri & Sat open 24 hours. ­K VINERIA CENTRALE We guarantee you will feel like you’re in Italy in this genuine, tiny venue! A few tables, a diagonal bar with some stools and a cordial host is all it takes, besides the friendly, easygoing crowd and maybe a glass of wine of course. But it’s not just an ideal spot to have a drink and a chat with friends. They also do great Italian food, be it appetizers or pasta or other mains (and a daily lunch deal). You’re on your own? No problem, as a chat comes easy here. It’s the Italian way, you know! Thu & Fri 17:00 - 20:00 usually aperitivo with free antipasti buffet (surcharge per drink 2Sfr).QD‑9, Neugasse 42, 8Limmatplatz, tel. (+41) 76 513 22 04. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Thu 11:00 - 02:00, Fri 11:00 - 04:00, Sat 17:00 - 03:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. A­K

PUBS & DRINKERIES OEPFELCHAMMER The Oepfelchammer is best known for its wine tavern on the first floor - which still looks like it did more than 200 years ago. A special challenge awaits you there: climb over two ceiling beams and drink a free glass of wine hanging upside down. If you make it, you will be allowed to carve your name into the wooden walls - what an honour. Give it a try, but be warned: it is not easy. Make sure you respect the written house rules (i.e. no applause, just knocking on the tables) - or the eccentric waiter Boris (what a moustache!) will be happy to fine you 5Sfr. Good but quite expensive Swiss food in the refectory.QG‑12, Rindermarkt 12, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 251 23 36, www.oepfelchammer.ch. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 16:00 - 24:00, Closed Mon, Sun. A­K PADDY REILLY’S A real Irish pub in the middle of Zurich featuring 12 different draught ciders and beers (from Irish stout to Swiss lager), burgers, chips and salads - and sports of course. Fridays and Saturdays a DJ tries to get all the expats and travellers dancing on the red carpet - who usually don’t need telling twice.QE‑12, Talstrasse 82, 8Sihlstrasse, tel. (+41) 43 497 39 66, www.paddys.ch. Open 11:30 - 24:00, Fri 11:30 - 04:00, Sat 13:00 - 04:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. A­K­X zurich.inyourpocket.com


Nightlife WHERE TO WATCH THE WORLD CUP It will be a month of incredible emotions and mood swings again as the 2018 FIFA World Cup occupies television screens around the world  from June 14 to July 15. And as Switzerland has qualified this time, the tension in Zurich is palpable. Many bars and restaurants in the city that wouldn’t normally have a television on the premises will be placing them in prime positions for this month-long tournament and all bars and restaurants are allowed to show all of the matches outdoors without any special permits. Many places, or fan zones if you like,  will also be set up especially for this occasion. Below we list a few of our favourites. And check our blog www.blog.inyourpocket.com/switzerland where we will add more venues.

ZIEGELHÜTTE This large beer garden lies off the beaten path at the forest’s edge in Schwamendingen. But it’s well worth the extra travel for its football screenings. All of the matches will be shown on a number of different screens outside, in tents and in its hall. And they also do outstanding food.QHüttenkopfstrasse 70, 8Schwamendingerplatz, tel. (+41) 44 322 40 03, www.wirtschaft-ziegelhuette.ch.

CALVADOS BAR - RUSSIA 2018 It’s no surprise that Calvados, a bar that calls itself ‘bar sportif’, has special plans for the World Cup. This deliberately low-key place will occupy parts of the lovely Idaplatz square for a few weeks with three big HD screens showing all the matches. ZUM GLATTEN KÖBI Quite a selection of international beers is also available and Located on the premises of the club Supermarket this one they even know how to do cocktails here. So go grab some is named in honour of the great Köbi Kuhn (former coach drinks, find yourself a place and get ready to support your of the Swiss team). Expect plenty of big screens, TVs inside team. If the weather let’s us down, they’ll also show the and out, food and even some bands and DJs before and matches indoors at the bar.QA‑12, Idaplatz, 8Locherguet, after the games.QB‑8, Supermarket, Geroldstrasse 17, Calvados_InYourPocket_Inserat124x90_english-ART.pdf 1 17.05.18 15:24 tel. (+41) 43 960 08 10, www.lecalvados.ch. 8Schiffbau, www.zumglattenkoebi.ch.

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June – July 2018 33


Nightlife CLUBS As nightlife goes outdoors in summer (see p. 11), many of the city’s clubs have a reduced programme in June, July and August, some even close for a few weeks. But when the outdoor bars have to close at midnight you will always find a dance floor to party on. If in doubt, check the websites of the clubs before you go. BELLEVUE This is another house and techno club. But, we have to say, we like this one. The lines of coloured lights on the walls give the Bellevue something of a retro disco touch, while the music is house in all its variations - all very danceable. This club is for adults, minimum age is usually 25. You will find the entrance on the rear side of the building, actually on Freieckstrasse.QH‑14, Rämistrasse 6, tel. (+41) 44 251 33 40, www.club-bellevue.ch. Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - late. A

ADULT ENTERTAINMENT If you’re male and looking for the so-called ‘sins of the flesh,’ then Zurich has a lot to offer. Prostitution is legal in Switzerland, so you can find everything from strip bars and erotic massages to sex clubs and escort services in Zurich. While hardly an alpine Amsterdam, Zurich is an inviting destination if you’re looking for carnal pleasures and sexy ladies in various states of undress. Prostitution is not only legal but is also regulated by the city. Sex clubs need permission to operate and this is only granted if a business follows all of the security, health, social security and tax regulations, doesn’t place any undue pressure on the sex workers, ensures their health and guarantees violence prevention. For all these reasons, sex clubs are probably the best and safest option if you’re looking for sex in Zurich. Street prostitution is also regulated, but is only permitted in a few areas (i.e. Häringstrasse in the Niederdorf district) and only at certain times. Here are some reputable strip bars. Check our website www.zurich.inyourpocket.com for erotic massage parlours and sex clubs. We believe the places we list to be upstanding businesses, but we still recommend employing simple common sense when delving into the world of adult entertainment. CALYPSO Located in Niederdorf, Calypso claims to have the only shower show in town. Apart from that there is the standard stage with two poles and a huge mirror in the back.QG‑11, Niederdorfstrasse 60, 8Central, tel. (+41) 44 252 33 70, www.calypso-nightclub.ch. Open 19:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. 34 Zurich In Your Pocket

HELSINKI The Helsinki is a great little alternative bar and club next to Hardbrücke train station. Situated in a former garage, lots of Swiss and sometimes foreign bands hit the stage. The admission fee is usually low and if no one is playing live, there is a notable jukebox in a minimalistic and trashy atmosphere. Outdoor area with food.QB‑8, Geroldstrasse 35, 8Escher-Wyss Platz, www.helsinkiklub.ch. Open Thu 20:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 -04:00, Sun 20:00 - 02:00, other days check programme. E KAUFLEUTEN The Kaufleuten club is an institution in Zurich’s nightlife: the rich, the beautiful and wannabes like us queue up almost every weekday to party, mostly to electronic music and disco-house sounds (sometimes party tunes, r’n’b and hip hop or reggaeton). Dress to impress is the motto, and for some people here looking the part seems to be very important. Nevertheless, it’s a good place for a classy night out.QF‑13, Pelikanstrasse 18, 8Sihlstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 225 33 22, www.kaufleuten.com. Open usually Tue, Fri & Sat 23:00 - 04:00/05:00, other days check programme. Admission around 25Sfr. A­E­X

Kaufleuten: it’s gettin’ hot in here!

PD

PLAZA The Plaza bis a big club with two dance floors (and yes, you can smoke on the smaller one!). DJ’s play sounds from mash up, 90s and 80s, r’n’b to disco, house and other electronic music. The Plaza is popular with all kinds of people - a good place to end your bar tour around Langstrasse. Thursday students night, free admission for students before 23:00. QC‑12, Badenerstrasse 109, 8Bezirksgebäude, tel. (+41) 44 542 90 90, www.plaza-zurich.ch. Club open Thu 22:00 - late, Fri & Sat 23:00 - late. Bar open Mon - Fri 17:00 - late, Sat 18:00 - late. Admission Fri & Sat around 25Sfr. A­E­X

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Sightseeing

The towers of the Romanesque Grossmünster are a landmark of Zurich’s peaceful old town. | Zurich Tourism

Zurich’s largely intact medieval town on the one hand and its natural setting on the other are the city’s charms. It also has an excellent range of museums and galleries showing international art. Admission to many places is free, if it does cost we indicate the full price followed by reduced price, usually the children’s price, e.g. 10/5Sfr. Museums are usually closed on Mondays.

MAIN SIGHTS If you ask someone from Zurich which of the city’s sights represents Zurich best, they’ll probably point to the Grossmünster, its unmistakable double towers making it the closest Zurich has to a landmark. Wasserkirche and Fraumünster complete the trinity of famous churches. Lindenhof is where Zurich started off and is a lovely spot today, while the central police station is another unlikely lovely spot - unless maybe you’re escorted there. Its entrance hall is splendidly decorated with work by Augusto Giacometti. But two of Zurich’s major attractions are not man-made at all: the lake and the Uetliberg peak. FRAUMÜNSTER Today most people come to Fraumünster to see the magnificent stained glass windows in the choir created by French artist Marc Chagall in the early 1970s, or the windows by Augusto Giacometti. But in days gone by this Gothic abbey dating from the 9th century was more than just pretty. Fraumünster, which literally means women’s abbey, belonged to the Benedictine convent whose abbess had wide powers in Zurich. Women came on harder times facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

in the 16th century. The little archway on the outer corner of Fraumünster (Poststrasse/Münsterhof ) was used to limit decadence and elaborate clothing, and women’s wide hoop skirts had to fit through here, or else a fine was due. Since summer 2016 the crypt is open to visitors. Be considerate, no photos, no visiting during Sunday services.QG‑13, Stadthausquai 19, 8Helmhaus, www.fraumuenster.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 5Sfr, incl. audioguide (available in 8 languages) or brochure and admission to crypt museum. Children free. Groups must book time slots in advance. GROSSMÜNSTER The two towers of the originally Romanesque Grossmünster are Zurich’s landmark and they also offer a great view over Zurich, if you make it up the 187 narrow steps (5/2Sfr admission for the tower, open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:30 17:00). According to legend, Felix and Regula, Zurich’s patron saints, were beheaded at the site of the Wasserkirche and then walked up to where the Grossmünster stands, taking their heads with them. Centuries later the emperor Charlemagne was passing through Zurich and decided to found a church in honour of the martyrs - after a hint from his horse. Since the Reformation the church has a barren feel, alleviated only by the windows. German artist Sigmar Polke finished 12 simply beautiful windows in 2009, partly made of semi-precious stones. Crypt and cloister with a museum on the Reformation are also accessible. Audioguide in different languages available (5Sfr plus 5Sfr deposit).QG‑13, Grossmünsterplatz, 8Helmhaus, www.grossmuenster.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:00. June – July 2018 35


Sightseeing LAKE ZURICH

Zurich Tourism

The lake is certainly one of the city’s highlights and a walk along the shores is a must, whatever the season. Start for example at Bellevue and walk along the promenade towards Zürichhorn. After a few hundred metres a park fills the expanse between the lake and the street. The huge Blatterwiese, also known as Chinawiese because the Chinese garden is just next to it, is popular for relaxing, sunbathing or playing sports. There is also a playground for kids. Continuing, you get to Zürichhorn, a small delta with some lakeside restaurants and later still to the railway station Tiefenbrunnen where you can hop on a tram (or train) back to Bellevue. The western shore of the lake is a bit less popular though just as nice for a walk. Start at the Arboretum and walk along the shore passing Enge port, the cactuses of the Sukkulentensammlung, and the Mythenquai until you reach the Landiwiese, a large field where many cultural events take place. If you go just a little further, you can enjoy a beer in the restaurant of the offstream cultural centre Rote Fabrik (red factory), marked by the red brick factory chimney. LAKE ZURICH CRUISES The Lake Zurich Navigation Company operates ships on Lake Zurich and the River Limmat. If you just want ten minutes of captains’ uniforms and brass foghorns, the routes Bürkliplatz-Wollishofen and BürkliplatzZürichhorn are included in any public transport ticket covering zone 110. If that’s not enough for you, go the whole hog with a roundtrip. There are different cruises all year round. They all start from the port at Bürkliplatz close to Bellevue several times a day. The short cruise (90 minutes) for example starts in summer every 30 minutes between 09:10 and 18/19:40, the 4-hour one at least four times a day. Tickets and timetables are available at the port. The boat surcharge of 5Sfr has been eliminated in April 2018. Standard public transport tickets are valid. QF‑14, Bürkliplatz, 8Bürkliplatz, tel. (+41) 44 487 13 33, www.zsg.ch. Tickets for roundtrips 8.80-34.40Sfr, children half the price, discount with Zurich public transport day cards. 36 Zurich In Your Pocket

GIACOMETTI MURALS In the entrance hall to the city’s police headquarters, Augusto Giacometti’s (1877 - 1947) magnificent murals adorn the vaulted ceiling and the walls. We think this impressive work is a must see for any Zurich visitor! The Giacomettis were a family of artists: Augusto’s cousin Giovanni (1868 - 1933) and Giovanni’s son Alberto (1901 - 1966) were successful artists too. And while Alberto and his haggard bronze figures are probably the best known Giacomettis (you can see some of those figures in the permanent exhibition at Zurich’s Kunsthaus), Augusto had the strongest connection to Zurich, as he studied and later lived here. And the murals in the entrance hall of Zurich’s police headquarters (1923 - 1925) is not the only work of his you can see in the city: he revitalised the art of stained-glass windows, creating the choir windows in the Grossmünster (1932), the window depicting paradise in the northern transept of the Fraumünster (1945) and windows in the Wasserkirche. The murals however, remain the work he is best known for. Admission to the murals is free, the opening hours are quite short though.QG‑12, Polizeiwache, Bahnhofquai 3, 8Bahnhofquai/HB. Open 09:00 - 11:00, 14:00 - 16:00, A ​ dmission free, ID required.

The colourful Giacometti murals are worth a visit. Zurich Toursim (JR)

LINDENHOF This idyllic square on a little hill in Zurich’s old town used to be an important place. The Romans set up shop here and later mediaeval royals would stay here when travelling in the region. Check out the replica Roman tomb stone in the right-hand wall of Pfalzgasse leading down and out of the square. The view from here over the Limmat is very pretty and on sunny days you can join in a game of chess at the back of the square.QG‑12, 8Rathaus. UETLIBERG The Uetliberg is Zurich’s own little mountain, marking the end of the Albis mountain chain on the western side of Lake Zurich. It rises up to 869 metres a.s.l. - towering around 450 metres over the city. There is a lookout tower on top (admission 2Sfr) bringing you to exactly 900 metres a.s.l. and offering a stunning view over the city, the lake and on to the Alps. The mountain is a popular local recreation area all year round. There is a train (S10 from track 21 or 22) from the main station twice an hour (more on weekends). Be zurich.inyourpocket.com


Sightseeing aware that you need an additional ticket even if you have a day pass for Zurich (with a day pass, buy a 1 - 2 additional zones’ day ticket at the ticket machine). From the terminal station it’s an easy 10-minute walk to the peak with the lookout tower and a restaurant. You can also walk up from the city to the peak. Take tram N°13 in direction Albisgüetli and get off at the last stop. From there two different paths lead to the top, both take about an hour. You do not need hiking equipment, but we recommend good shoes and staying on the path.

CHURCHES See main sights at the beginning of this chapter for the churches Fraumünster and Grossmünster. ST. PETER St. Peter church is the one with the huge clock-faces on all four sides of the tower you can spot from far away. The diameter of the clock-faces is almost 9 metres - they are said to be the biggest in Europe. The first mayor of Zurich, Rudolf Brun, was buried here in 1360 - a copy of his tomb stone can be seen on the northern side of the church. The nave of the church was finished in 1706, while the choir and the tower date from a Romanesque church built in 1230. This was the first church in Zurich that was built as a Protestant place of worship after the Reformation.QF‑13, St.-Peter-Hofstatt, 8Paradeplatz, www.st-peter-zh.ch. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.

WASSERKIRCHE The Wasserkirche, water church, is on the banks of the Limmat - but still, why the name? Actually, it was on an island in the river until the Limmatquai was built in 1839. Dating at least from the 10th century, what you see today is late Gothic style from the 15th century. See also the stained glass windows by Augusto Giacometti in the choir and the crypt with tombs almost as old as the church. A statue of forbidding Huldrich Zwingli stands at one end. Under the stone arches outside, the Kunstkiosk (art kiosque) sells books and prints and street musicians set up shop. If you get lucky you’ll hear the accordionist who gives masterful Bach recitals. Helmhaus gallery in the same building.QG‑13, Limmatquai 31, 8Helmhaus, www.wasserkirche.ch. Open 12:00 15:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 17:00, closed Mon, Tue.

GARDENS & PARKS BELVOIRPARK Probably the most beautiful of Zurich’s parks. Belvoirpark is idyllically placed on a hillside on the western lakeshore, with an excellent view onto the lake, the city centre and the Alps. A pond with a fountain, exotic trees and flowers and benches invite you to rest after a long sightseeing day. The park was built around 1826 by Heinrich Escher-Zollikofer as a private garden for his villa. In 1901 the city bought the park and opened it to the public. The villa now hosts the restaurant Belvoirpark and a gastronomy school.QE-16, Seestrasse 125, 8Museum Rietberg.

30 years S MI: equity indic es e x plained! New special exhibition at the Finance Museum starting 1 June 2018

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June – July 2018 37


Sightseeing CONTEMPORARY ARCHITECTURE

RIETER-PARK The Rieter-Park has some lovely little secret corners as well as two stately villas which now house the Rietberg museum. Situated in Enge, the park was built in 1855 around the German merchant Otto Wesendonck’s villa. In 1871 it became property of the Rieter family, manufacturers from Winterthur and was finally bought by the city of Zurich and opened to the public in 1945. The park is set on a hillside from the top of which you get some great views of the Glarner Alps and the city.QE-16, Seestrasse 125, 8Museum Rietberg.

MUSEUMS & ART The rather harsh ‘Neue Einfachheit’ (new simplicity) is the style which was most readily associated with Swiss architecture in recent decades. More recently, architects in Zurich have shaken off the austerity and a number of architectural gems have been built in Zurich.

Zurich is a real city of museums - there are 43 of them with all kind of exhibitions. We list the most popular ones and the ones we like best. You can find more information in English on all the museums on www.museen-zuerich.ch.

KRAFTWERK 1 Architects: Bünzli/Courvoisier and Stücheli Architekten Kraftwerk 1 was built by a cooperative founded with the aim of experimenting with new types of living arrangements. Completed in 2000, the flats range between 2 and 13 rooms in size, making it possible for up to 15 people to share a flat and to organise their lives in ways beyond the traditional family.QHardturmstrasse 261 - 269, 8Bernoulli-Häuser. UNIVERISTY OF ZURICH LAW LIBRARY Architect: Santiago Calatrava Valls In a quest to create more space for the university without acquiring any new land, the Spanish architect who is based in Zurich added in 2004 two stories in steel and glass to this 1909 building. He also roofed the inner courtyard and set into it a series of elliptic steel balconies finished in wood, gaining even more space. From the bottom floor where one enters, this construction appears as an immense wooden sculpture (see photo above). Calatrava is also the creative spirit behind Stadelhofen train station (1984 - 1990).QG-3, Rämi­strasse 74, 8Kantonsschule. Library open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00 (Nov - June). BOTANISCHER GARTEN (BOTANICAL GARDEN) The university’s botanical garden was opened in 1977 and lies on a hillside on the eastern side of the lake. You can find different vegetation zones here: a Mediterranean area, an Alpinium with plants from the mountains, an area simulating an African wadi and several bench areas which are an ideal habitat for tired visitors. There are three UFO-like greenhouses - cupolas made of acrylic glass with tropical and subtropical climates inside, housing exotic orchids or cactuses and other survivalists in a simulated savannah. There is a cafeteria serving cheap lunch deals as well.QJ‑16, Zollikerstrasse 107, 8Hegibachplatz, tel. (+41) 44 634 84 61, www.bg.uzh.ch. Open 07:00 - 19:00, Sat & Sun 08:00 18:00. Greenhouses 09:30 - 17:00. Admission free. 38 Zurich In Your Pocket

A place to worship football: the FIFA World Football Museum. 

Zurich Tourism

FIFA WORLD FOOTBALL MUSEUM Zurich is the hometown of the International Federation of Association Football or FIFA. Its very own museum tells the history of football, FIFA and the World Cup over more than 3,000m2. You’re initially met with the jerseys of all 211 FIFA member associations, which are on display in a kind of colour-coded rainbow, as well as a timeline that takes you through the history of FIFA. The second floor is dedicated to the World Cup complete with dozens of historic artefacts including the tracksuit that football’s first real star Pelé wore in 1958. And yes, the original FIFA World Cup trophy is also on display! The third and last floor is dedicated to the impact football has had and continues to have on society. There’s also a gaming zone with giant pinball machines where you and your kids can test your skills with actual footballs. The museum is great for football fans and families and a bistro, a café-bar, a shop and the Sportsbar 1904 can also be found at the museum.QE‑15, Seestrasse 27, 8Bahnhof Enge, tel. (+41) 43 388 25 00, www.fifamuseum.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00, Closed Mon. Admission 24/14Sfr, students 18Sfr, kids younger than seven free, families 64Sfr. zurich.inyourpocket.com


Sightseeing KUNSTHAUS Zurich’s major art museum has an impressive collection with work by many Swiss artists such as Füssli, Hodler, Segantini or Bill and the largest collection of Alberto Giacometti’s work including some of his trademark haggard statues. Work by international artists like Manet, Van Gogh, Kokoschka or Baselitz also please the eye and mind. Additionally there are usually two very worthwhile temporary exhibitions, one large, one small (see section Culture & Events). English language audioguides available. Café and shop on the ground floor.QH‑13, Heimplatz 1, 8Kunsthaus, tel. (+41) 44 253 84 84, www.kunsthaus. ch. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission for collection 16/11Sfr, for exhibitions 23/18Sfr, combined ticket 26/19Sfr. Free admission to the collection every Wednesday. MUSEUM FÜR GESTALTUNG ZÜRICH (MUSEUM OF DESIGN) The collection of Zurich’s design museum comprises more than half a million objects relating to poster and object design as well as  applied art and graphics and is of international renown. The museum has regularly changing temporary exhibitions with works from its collection at two locations, one on Ausstellungsstrasse close to the main station and one in the University of Arts on Toni Areal.QE‑9, Ausstellungsstrasse 60, 8Museum für Gestaltung, tel. (+41) 43 446 67 38, www. museum-gestaltung.ch. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Wed 10:00 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/8Sfr.

MORE FOR LESS WITH THE ZÜRICH CARD You’re in town for only two days? Too short, but the Zürich Card can help you make the most of it. For a busy day or two in Zurich, you can’t really go wrong with the Zürich Card. It gives you free entry to a number of great museums like the National Museum and dozens more. It also gets you a 10% discount in lots of shops, e.g. Meng cutlery or Vollenweider Chocolatier. You get free entry to several of Zurich’s best clubs and to the casino and many restaurants will give you dessert on the house with the card or some other extra, if you have a main course first. The Zürich Card also gives you unlimited use of trams, buses and trains within the city and includes the train trip from and to the airport, and the trip up to Zurich’s little mountain Uetliberg. Now that’s a deal!QThe Zürich Card costs 27/19Sfr for 24hr and 53/37Sfr for 72hr. Buy it at SBB counters, at the airport, train stations, at the tourist information at the main station or at all VBZ public transport sales points and from all ticket machines in town (stamp it before you set off!). Check www.zuerich.com/zuerichcard for the full range of discounts. The Zürich Card is issued by Zürich Tourism who cooperate with Zurich In Your Pocket.

CITY TOURS

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www.switzerland-tours.ch June – July 2018 39


Sightseeing MARKETS FLEA MARKET BÜRKLIPLATZ Zurich’s second big flea market - professional traders selling antiques as well as people who spontaneously get a stand and sell their household before moving. Located very centrally on Bürkliplatz - why not browse through the stands before you head for some real shopping on glamourous Bahnhofstrasse?QG‑14, Bürkliplatz, 8Bürkliplatz, www.buerkli-flohmarkt. ch. Every Saturday from May 5 until October 27, 2018, 07:00 - 17:00, no market August 11, 2018. ROSENHOFMARKT Incense sticks, trinkets and hippie-style clothes are on offer on Thursdays and Saturdays at the Rosenhof, a hidden square in the Niederdorf part of the old town. Artists also sell their handcrafted jewellery and pottery. There is also food from around the world. QG‑12, Rosenhof, 8Rathaus, www.gld.ch. March - December Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. NATIONAL MUSEUM (LANDESMUSEUM) It will take you a while to get through the permanent exhibition on Swiss history, but hey, it took centuries to accumulate. Complete with sights, sounds, slides and secret bank accounts, this is not some bone-dry collection of old things. There are four thematic areas: the first section shows the history of migration and settlement, the second examines religious and intellectual history, the third is dedicated to Swiss political history and the fourth section focusses on economy. For most exhibits explanations in English are available. There are temporary exhibitions on changing topics (see Culture & Events section of this guide). In August 2016 the striking concrete extension that has been built over the last few years opened to the public. The museum has now finally much more space for exhibitions, a study centre and a large restaurant. E-guide in the ‘National Museum’ app for your smartphone available in English and other languages or hire a special device at the entrance. QF‑10, Museumstrasse 2, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 58 466 65 11, www.landesmuseum.ch. Open 10:00 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/8Sfr.

The Swiss business elite of yore and the Greek god Midas guide you through the Finanzmuseum. PD

40 Zurich In Your Pocket

SCHWEIZER FINANZMUSEUM (FINANCE MUSEUM) With all its banks Zurich is known as the city for finance and money and it finally has a museum dedicated to the subject. What are stocks, how were they traded and how does it work today? And how did Switzerland become an important marketplace for finance? These questions and more are answered by audio installations (Alfred Escher, Zurich’s railway pioneer and founder of the bank Credit Suisse, will explain everything to you!) as well as interactive video installations. Want to go public with your company? No problem, a friendly gentlemen on a video screen will explain the process to you. There’s also a short trainee programme available for stockbrokers and a game where you can prove your skills afterwards. The museum gives you an insight into the world of finance and is situated in the headquarters of SIX, the company that operates the Swiss stock exchange. The all new special exhibition explains everything about equity indices. You can also download its free app to your smartphone, which will guide you through the museum.QPfingstweidstrasse 110, 8Sportweg, tel. (+41) 58 399 32 88, www.finanzmuseum.ch. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 10/8Sfr, children up to 12 years free.

SIGHTSEEING TOURS BEST OF ZURICH - ZÜRICH CITY TOUR Enjoy a city tour in an air-conditioned coach including a short stroll through the old town and a ride with the Dolderbahn rack-and-pinion railway up into the residential area of Zürichberg. In a little more than two hours you get to see Bahnhofstrasse and the financial district, the old guild houses and the universities. There’s live commentary in English and German as well as audio guides in Spanish, Russian, Chinese and Japanese. In addition to the city tour, the company also offers tours to Titlis, Pilatus, Rigi, the Rhine Falls and Jungfraujoch, just to name a few. Excursions for small groups and adventure packages are also available. Visit www.switzerland -tours.ch for more information.QF‑10, Bus Terminal Sihlquai, 8Sihlquai/HB, tel. (+41) 44 710 50 50, www.switzerland-tours.ch. Starts daily 10:00, 13:00 and 15:30 at the Sihlquai bus terminal next to the main train station.Tickets available on the spot, but reservation by phone/website is recommended. Tickets 34/17Sfr, 10 20% discount with the Zürich Card. SEGWAY CITY TOURS Explore Zurich on a Segway - a two-wheeled, self-balancing electric vehicle. This slightly eccentric guided tour in English and German takes two and a half hours and includes a 40-minute instruction on how to drive the Segway. There are several stops on the lake, on Bahnhofstrasse and Limmatquai. Minimum age is 16, no driving licence needed.QC‑16, Hotel Engimatt, Engimattstrasse 14, 8Waffenplatzstrasse, tel. (+41) 848 734 929, www.segwaycitytours.ch. Wed - Sun daily at 14:00. Book by phone before 18:00 the day before. 109Sfr. More tours in summer, check its website. zurich.inyourpocket.com


Sightseeing STORIES OF THE OLD TOWN - GUIDED WALK A professional guide will take you on this two-hour walk through the old town of Zurich. What links famous literati, scientists or visionaries such as Albert Einstein, Lenin and the Dadaists with Zurich? Discover the city’s history and listen to anecdotes from its past in English and German. Good choice if you really want to see the old town, where the bus tours can’t go. For other walks such as the ones on design and gourmet food ask at the Tourist Information at the main station. Reservation by phone recommended.QG‑11, Tourist Information Main Train Station, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 44 215 40 00, www.zuerich.com. Starts at the Tourist Information at the main train station. Daily 15:00, Sat & Sun 11:00 (German) & 15:00 (English). 25/12.50Sfr, 50% discount with Zürich Card. THE ZURICH EXPERIENCE CITY TOUR Ride around Zurich in a modern panorama coach. The two-hour tour gives you an overview of the city showing you the financial district, Bahnhofstrasse and a part of the old town including the Grossmünster, Fraumünster and St. Peter’s churches as well as the posh residential areas on Zürichberg. Commentary including some insights into the history of the city is provided via headsets in eleven languages (English, French, German, Italian, Spanish Japanese, Portuguese, Russian, Chinese, Hindi, Arabic). They also offer many other tours, including trips to Lucerne, Mount

Take a sneak peek: Fraumünster as seen from Helmhaus. 

Zurich Tourism (BM)

Pilatus, Jungfraujoch and more. See website for more tours.QF‑10, Bus Terminal Sihlquai, 8Sihlquai/ HB, tel. (+41) 44 383 78 78, www.meiertours.ch. Daily 09:45, 12:00 & 14:00. Tickets 34/17Sfr, available on the spot, reservation by phone recommended.

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The Zurich Experience City Tour with audio-guided commentary

Regular Sightseeing Tours Free WiFi on-board

Exciting tours to Glacier Paradise Mt.Titlis, Jungfraujoch, Heidiland, Lucerne … and many more

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June – July 2018 41


Old-town stroll at the top of Marktgasse and now you’re on the main throughway of pedestrian Niederdorf, the other part of the old town. On the right is 5 Cabaret Voltaire, from where the Dada movement - jolifanto bambla o falli bambla - set off to confuse the bourgeoisie in 1916. A little further on to the left, set back in a little courtyard, is Schober, a richly decorated sweets and pastry shop worth at least a quick visit. Directly opposite are Schwarzenbach coffee roasters - the irresistible smell gets even better if you stick your nose inside. Strolling further along Münstergasse you pass the Bodega Española on your right, where in the 1950s author Max Frisch used to drop in for a beer and a few tapas.

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42 Zurich In Your Pocket

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On the other end of the bridge you have the Rathaus, the town hall, to your right and the Rathaus café to your left. Our rigorous ramble takes us straight ahead, across the tram lines on Limmatquai and into Marktgasse, where you’ll find one of Zurich’s prettiest flower shops. Turn right

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Ahead of you is the church tower of 3 St. Peter (see p. 37), our next destination situated on one of Zurich’s most peaceful squares (St. Peterhofstatt). Going left, either of the alleys (Weggengasse or Thermengasse) gets you to the second bridge, 4 Rathausbrücke, also known as the vegetable bridge because of the small fruit & veg market held here on Saturdays.

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Just after Schipfe 16 take the climb up to 2 Lindenhof (see p. 36), just turn right and up Fortunagasse and then left into Lindenhof with its tall trees, one of the oldest parts of Zurich. The mediaeval German kings would stop over here and the Romans also occupied the spot in their day and age. Take in the view over the parapet or play with the royals who are always here, in one of the games of outdoor chess. Leaving Lindenhof opposite from where you entered (down Pfalz-Gasse), there’s a copy of the Roman tombstone which mentions Turicum (Zurich) on your right, set in the wall.

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Zurich’s old town snuggles up to both banks of the river ­Limmat, so our old-town stroll does much the same and heads upstream, crossing two bridges and passing a third. We set off at the bridge named after Zurich’s first mayor, 1 Rudolf-Brun Brücke, which is easily reached from Bahnhofstrasse or by walking along the Limmat (down Bahnhofquai) from the main train station. At the bridge’s south-western corner, just by the Swiss handicrafts shop, head down the steps to the metal walkway leading upstream along the Limmat, almost touching the water (Heiri-Steg). Soon you’re on a cobbled street (Schipfe), with some miniature antiques shops and boutiques on the right and the restaurant Schipfe 16, a work project for unemployed and well worth a quick stop, on the left.

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Bahn hofst

The iconic Napfbrunnen fountain in Niederdorf.

A few steps along you’re at Zurich’s landmark Romanesque - style abbey, the somewhat austere 6 Grossmünster with its double towers and their rather unique, Neo-Gothic spires added in the 18th century. Looking towards the river, the third bridge, Münsterbrücke, appears and the graceful Fraumünster Abbey is visible across the Limmat. Take the steps from the Grossmünster courtyard down to the 7 Wasserkirche and the Helmhaus art gallery by the river and then cross the bridge to 8 Fraumünster (see p. 35) to gaze at the famous stained-glass windows by Chagall. You’ve seen all the really important parts of Zurich’s old town now and can finish off with one of Zurich’s other major attractions - the lake - which is just five minutes’ walk further along the river.

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Zurich for kids Are we there yet?! Children have their own idea of how to have a good time and stylish bars or Gothic cathedrals may not exactly do the trick. But no fear, there’s plenty to do with children in Zurich. Find more suggestions on www.zurich.inyourpocket.com.

LEISURE & SPORTS Little guests need room to jump and run. Not to mention swim, skate or canoe. The most central playground is next to Lindenhof (p.36, E-3) and there is a large one next to the Chinese garden. The Gemeinschaftszentren (or GZ), community centres of the city also have good playgrounds. CHOCOLAT FREY VISITOR CENTRE You and your kids can get to know how chocolate is made in a playful way at the visitor centre of Chocolat Frey, Switzerland’s biggest chocolate producer. On the expert trail some of Frey’s chocolate makers will explain and demonstrate the production of those sweet delicacies. And yes, you and your kids will be able to taste some, be they pieces straight from the production line or from the two chocolate fountains. You can watch Röbi the Robot pack chocolates or dress up as a cocoa bean and make funny photos to surprise your friends with. You can also identify different smells in the Aroma Lab or play a giant computer game. Afterwards you can fortify yourself up in the café and, of course, buy all of the Frey delicacies at the shop. This pleasant day trip, which isn’t just for chocolate connoisseurs, is

So that’s how cocoa tastes? Find out at Chocolat Frey.

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reachable in only 39 minutes from Zurich (take the train to Aarau, then bus Nº1 to the Industrie stop in Buchs). QBresteneggstrasse 4, Buchs, tel. (+41) 62 836 24 25, www.chocolatfrey.ch/visitor-centre. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Closed Mon. Admission 12/10/6Sfr, family ticket incl. up to 5 kids (6-16 years) 30/18Sfr. Free admission to the café with a playground and shop.

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SWEET CHOCOLATE MOMENTS CHOCOLAT FREY VISITOR CENTRE

The Chocolat Frey visitor centre just 39 minutes from Zurich central station by public transport Free entry to the Café Frey with its chocolate factory playground and to the Boutique Frey Chocolat Frey Visitor Centre Bresteneggstrasse 4 | CH-5033 Buchs bei Aarau Tel. 0041 (0) 62 836 24 25, besucherzentrum@chocolatfrey.ch www.chocolatfrey.ch

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June – July 2018 43


Zurich for kids SHOPS

Franz Carl Weber

FRANZ CARL WEBER This is the toy shop to visit in the city centre conveniently located right next to the main station. See also p.51.QF‑12, Bahnhofplatz 9, 8Bahnhofplatz/ HB, tel. (+41) 44 225 78 78, www.fcw.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. ALKENA The small shop near Bellevue has a good selection of high-quality, cheerful children’s clothes made of organic textiles. The brand Alkena specialises in organic silk which is produced in its own silk farm in China. They also sell women’s clothes, so mum might find something she likes too.QH‑14, Stadelhoferstrasse 33, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) 44 261 66 00, www.alkena. com. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Mon 12:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun, Open 10:00 - 18:30, Mon 12:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. GEMEINSCHAFTSZENTREN (COMMUNITY CENTRES) The 17 community centres, called Gemeinschaftszentren, are co-funded by the city. They function as a meeting point for the residents of a district and can be visited by anyone for free. They usually have a playground for kids and a little café-bar, many offer organised activities and some even have some farm animals to watch and stroke. A visit is sure to be fun for you and your kids, not just because you are likely to meet other families there. Here we list some cool and more central ones, see www.gz-zh.ch for all locations. They are usually open 10:00 - 18:00 and some 14:00 - 17:00/18:00 on the weekend: • GZ Schindlergut, Kronenstrasse 12, +41 44 365 24 40 • GZ Wipkingen (on the river), Breitensteinstrasse 19 a, +41 44 276 82 80 • GZ Wollishofen (on the lake), Bachstrasse 70, +41 43 243 11 37

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KINDERCITY Kindercity is a science city for children aged 3 to 12, much more hands-on than a museum - and when did you last do bungee-jumping in a museum? Different so-called knowledge lanes are dedicated to topics like the human body, renewable energy or modern communication, using sight, sound, smell and action to let children discover, accompanied by an adult. There is a café, open-air play areas, magic trains and a car driving school on the roof for underaged drivers - and much more. From Zurich, take trains S9 or S14 (direction Hinwil/Uster), change at Schwerzenbach to the bus in direction of Volketswil, get off at Volkiland, Chliriet (duration: 22 minutes).QChlirietstrasse 12, Volketswil, tel. (+41) 43 204 30 60, www.kindercity.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Daypass (cinema and knowledge lanes) 31.50Sfr, activities can also be booked separately e.g. knowledge lane 16.50Sfr (22.50 adults).

Are they watching you or are you watching them? Alpine ibex at Wildnispark. PD

PUBLIC LAKE BATHS MYTHENQUAI Sandy beaches, ice cream, table tennis - you’ll find it all at Mythenquai, a large lido with all you could ask for. There’s a large non-swimming area in the lake with large water toys, ball playing areas and diving boards for those who dare. Parents may be more interested in the deck chairs and sunshades that can be borrowed for free, you just leave a deposit. There is a self-service restaurant, or fixed barbecues if you prefer being the chef yourself. Get there on bus Nº 161 or Nº 165 to Sukkulentensammlung or take the ship from Bürkliplatz to Seerestaurant.QMythenquai 95, 8Brunaustrasse, tel. (+41) 44 201 00 00. Open 09:00 - 20:00 (May 10 - Sept 16, 2018), weather permitting (open with every weather daily 09:00 - 11:00). Admission 8/6/4Sfr.

PARKS & MUSEUMS WILDNISPARK ZÜRICH Wildnispark Zürich features two different attractions at two different locations not very far from one another. At Langenberg you’ll find  wild animals like  bears, deer, European bison, wild boar and many more creatures (in enclosures). All of them are indigenous to Switzerland and can be watched here almost as if they were still in the wild. Seasonal, short guided tours with exciting stories about these animals are also available. The other attraction is  Sihlwald, a protected  forest which has largely been left zurich.inyourpocket.com


Zurich for kids

Nothing beats a jump into the lake.

Zurich Tourism

to its own devices, so animals and little adventurers feel very much at home here. It’s accessible from the village of Sihlwald, where you’ll also find a visitor centre, which offers suggestions on where to hike in this wilderness area that’s almost like a primeval forest. There’s also a nature museum with exhibits on weasels, stoats and otters at the centre (6/3Sfr). Most of the enclosures, the barbecue areas and playgrounds are accessible all the time and have free admission. There are restaurants at both  Langenberg and Sihlwald.QAlte Sihltalstrasse 38, Sihlwald, tel. (+41) 44 722 55 22, www.wildnispark.ch. Get there from Zurich’s main train station with the S4 (SZU). For Langenberg (enclosures) exit at Wildpark-Höfli. From there it’s a 30-minute walk. For Sihlwald (forest and visitor centre) leave the train at Sihlwald (plus a 5-minute walk). Restaurant and visitors’ centre in the park. The forest and most of the the enclosures are accessible year round. ZOOLOGICAL AND PALEONTOLOGICAL MUSEUMS OF THE UNIVERSITY OF ZURICH A giant sloth waits just beyond the entrance here, but luckily it’s only a reconstruction, so you can even stroke it. Animals large and small are displayed stuffed or as skeletons: jaguars, kangaroos, platypuses, giant crabs. You’ll be amazed what exists in the animal kingdom. Insects can be viewed under a microscope, and your children and you can listen to the songs of 280 different birds, and see them as well. The paleontological section features marine dinosaurs from when Switzerland was covered by an ocean, as well as giant ammonite fossils, land dinosaurs like triceratops and skeletons of woolly mammoths.QH‑11, Karl Schmid-Strasse 4, 8ETH/Universitätsspital, tel. (+41) 44 634 38 38, www.zm.uzh.ch. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.

CAFÉS

wilderness near Zurich wildnispark.ch

KAFI FÜR DICH This café has a children’s corner where your young ones can paint the walls with chalk or play with one of the many toys while you sit and have a coffee or a drink. On weekends the place is so popular with parents you have to weave your way through the many push chairs standing around. QStauffacherstrasse 141, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. (+41) 43 317 91 60, www.fuerdich.ch. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 02:00, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

June – July 2018 45


Shopping

The display windows around Paradeplatz are full of luxury watches. | Zurich Tourism

Zurich has the reputation of a shopping city, even if not quite that of London or Milano. Especially Bahnhofstrasse is well known around the globe as one of the most exclusive and expensive shopping streets in the world. For Swiss and urban design, Europaallee and the area around Langstrasse are good spots. In the way of shopping malls, Switzerland can’t match other European countries where huge centres are the order of the day. But maybe that’s a good thing. The Sihlcity shopping centre, an easily reachable mall that opened in 2007, is an example of an innovative development - without being a giant. The shopping mall Glatt just outside the city limits is Switzerland’s most popular shopping mall. The malls and best shopping areas of the city are listed here together with other remarkable shops. Remember all shops are closed on Sundays except at the railway stations and some souvenir shops. For more suggestions check www.zurich.inyourpocket.com The main shopping areas are: Bahnhofstrasse (F-11/14) The Bahnhofstrasse leads from the main railway station to the lake and is mostly a pedestrian area almost without traffic - but watch out for the trams! It’s world-famous for its luxury stores: find jewellery, watches and designer boutiques as well as the big department stores Jelmoli, Globus and Manor here. In recent years not to everyone’s pleasure more and more big foreign companies like Apple have opened stores on Bahnhofstrasse displacing some traditional Zurich companies - some say Bahnhofstrasse is losing its 46 Zurich In Your Pocket

atmosphere. Nevertheless a walk down this famous street is a must for every shopping fan. Wander into the side streets as well, where shops are no less luxurious and some more unusual little gems are hidden. Niederdorf (G-11/13) Even if Niederdorf - the part of the old town east of the river Limmat - is better known for dining and nightlife than for shopping, it’s well worth expanding your shopping tour into this quarter. Along the streets Limmatquai and Niederdorfstrasse - both pedestrian areas - you will find smaller shops with up-to-date street wear, fancy shoes and fashion stores. The smaller alleys are also well worth a peek. Old Town (F/G-12/13) The old town between Bahnhofstrasse and the river Limmat is another shopping area not to miss. Try the pedestrian street Rennweg for example with its international clothing brands and boutiques or Storchengasse with its luxury designer stores.

OPENING HOURS Many shops on and around Bahnhofstrasse are open Mon to Fri 09:00 - 19:00 / 20:00. Smaller shops including jewellers often close at 18:30, some are closed on Monday mornings. On Saturdays most shops open from 09:00 - 17:00 (or 18:00, department stores until 20:00). On Sundays all shops have to be closed by law (except in train and petrol stations). zurich.inyourpocket.com


Shopping THE GALLERY This is a shopping paradise for women - 20 fashion brands of renown such as Guess, Marc O’Polo, Coccinelle, G-Lab, Zoe Karssen or Trussardi are on offer. The store has sections for casual trendy, modern contemporary, affordable luxury, jeans fashion and accessories rather than being organised by brands. And while fashion is at the core of this store there are some lifestyle products like candles or pillows as well. They have monthly offers for beauty products and even food or beverages, to make your shopping experience that bit more exciting.QF‑12, Löwenstrasse 40, 8Löwenplatz, tel. (+41) 43 343 95 71, www.thegalleryconcept.ch. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

on the third floor of the Orell Füssli bookshop just off Bahnhofstrasse.QF‑12, Füsslistrasse 4 (3rd floor), 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 211 04 44, www.orellfussli.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, closed Sun.

CHOCOLATE & SWEETS HONOLD LA CONFISERIE Since 1905 Honold Confiserie has been producing chocolate, cakes and pastries just next to Bahnhofstrasse. Their chocolate cake and the birchermüesli (oat flakes with fruits and yoghurt) are also well-known. The shop is also a coffee bar with a balcony on the first floor, so you can enjoy Honold’s sweets while watching busy shopping on Rennweg.QF‑12, Rennweg 53, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 211 52 58, www.honold.ch. Open 08:00 - 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

BOOKS, CRAFTS & MUSIC 16TONS With tons of new and second-hand vinyl records, mainly of the genres reggae, soul, rockabillly and dancehall, 16tons is one of the city’s first addresses for vinyl lovers.QC‑11, Anwandstrasse 25, 8Bäckeranlage, tel. (+41) 44 242 02 03, www.16tons.ch. Open 12:00 - 18:30, Sat 11:00 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. BOOKBINDERS DESIGN This Swedish company designs a wide range of highquality notebooks, boxes, diaries, binders, frames and photo albums in different natural materials, shapes and colours. Many of the boxes and notebooks are bound with coloured fabric, giving them the special Scandinavian touch. Several products can also be personalised by engraving, making perfect gifts! (Sister shop on Sihlstrasse 38, D-3, +41 43 497 32 70, open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun closed). QG‑13, Oberdorfstrasse 34, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 260 32 00, www.bookbindersdesign.ch. Open 10:00 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Closed Sun. ORELL FÜSSLI - THE BOOKSHOP Zurich’s biggest English-language bookshop stocks thousands of fiction and non-fiction books, magazines, audio books and DVDs - and all in English. It’s located

Colourful notebooks and diaries at Bookbinders Design.

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MAX CHOCOLATIER Originating from Lucerne, Max Chocolatier sell their sweet 100% natural delicacies in Zurich too - in their shop next to St. Peter church. They sell chocolates and pralines of outstanding quality. The chocolatiers make every piece by hand, whether it’s, say, bars of dark Madagascan chocolate with pumpkin seeds, creamy caramel delicacies or their own chocolate spread.QG‑13, Schlüsselgasse 12, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 251 03 33, www.maxchocolatier.com. Open 10:30 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon, Sun.

Orell Füssli The Bookshop 3rd Floor, Füsslistrasse 4, 8001 Zürich +41 (0)44 211 04 44 English-orders@orellfuessli.ch

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Shopping AIRSIDE CENTER AT ZURICH AIRPORT Zurich airport’s passenger area is a shopping centre too! And quite a large one, in fact: more than 60 shops are located in the Airside Center which is accessible only to passengers. Here you can find literally anything you might be looking for. Be it Swiss watches, fashion or souvenirs, it’s all there, Swiss as well as international brands of course. In the Zürich Duty Free Stores you can buy a varied range of perfumes and cosmetics, tobacco products, spirits, wines and chocolate creations from Lindt, Cailler or Toblerone. The many restaurants and bars serving Swiss and international specialties make the Airside Center complete. So if you arrive at the airport early - don’t worry. You can use the time to hunt around for that last gift or souvenir or have a fine meal before you take off!QZurich Airport, www.flughafen-zuerich.ch/shopping. Open 06:00 22:00. Accessible only to passengers.

FASHION BOUTIQUE ROMA Roma is the boutique for clothing by international avantgarde designers like Rick Owens, Dries van Noten und Ann Demeulemeester. They feature men’s and women’s wear and take pride in traditional handicraft and exquisite materials.QF‑12, Pelikanstrasse 6/8, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 222 18 80, www.boutique-roma.ch. Open 09:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 18:00. Closed Sun. GAITO LUXURY GOODS As the name suggests, this fashion store is not for the poor. Extravagant luxury fashion by international designers such as Dsquared2, Philipp Plein and Aphero for men and women. All is carefully selected by shop owner Domenico Gaito - who also designs some fashion for his very own label Gaito. Definitely worth a visit if you dare to wear real fashion - and have a little cash handy.QG‑13, Münstergasse 2, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 261 18 24, www.gaito.ch. Open 11:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

DEPARTMENT STORES JELMOLI They call themselves the house of brands - and that’s what they are indeed: Hugo Boss, DKNY, Joop, Diesel, Tommy Hilfiger, Versace are just some of the fashion brands you can find here. But there’s more than fashion: perfumes, household goods, a huge sports and an electronics department. And not to forget the Jelmoli Food Market grocery store in the basement.QF‑12, Seidengasse 1, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 220 44 11, www.jelmoli.ch. Open 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. MANOR Manor is probably the most casual of the trinity of department stores on Bahnhofstrasse. It specialises in young and casual fashion and sells its own brands as well as brands of renown - they have something for everyone’s needs. Besides that, there are departments for beauty, sports, household and home electronics.QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 75, 8Bahnhofstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 229 56 99, www.manor.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Just the place for extravagant fashion: Gaito.

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GANT Located on Rennweg, just off Bahnhofstrasse, this is the new flagship store for GANT  in Zurich. Founded in 1949 in the US  GANT stands for casual, yet chic fashion for both men and women. With shirts, colourful pants, casual business suits, blouses, blazers or shoes, this shop features all of the latest GANT collections spread out over more than 300m2 on two floors. Other GANT shops

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Shopping can be found on Europaallee (Lagerstrasse 10) and at the Sihlcity shopping centre (Kalandeplatz 1).QF‑12, Rennweg 30, 8Rennweg, www.global.gant.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Closed Sun. MODISSA Modissa does elegant business dress and evening attire for women. The choice on the four storeys of their recently renovated Bahnhofstrasse branch is huge. The local company is still family-owned and runs its own exclusive fashion lines and well-known brands like Anette Görtz, Hugo Boss and Kenzo, to name just a few. On the more casual side, they have knitted garments mostly of exclusive materials like silk and cashmere. Their alteration studio offers quick and accurate service.QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 74, 8Bahnhofstrasse / HB, tel. (+41) 44 217 74 74, www.modissa.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.

The shirt and tie section at the new Gant store.

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SHOPPING MALLS

GLATT This is Switzerland’s most popular shopping mall. There are STRELLSON STORE This is the flagship store of Strellson, a Swiss label for men’s typical Swiss shops as well as international brands, watches fashion. On 220sqm on two storeys right on Limmatquai and jewellery shops and department stores – around 100 you can find all its latest collections, be it the smart shops spread out across 43,000m², all under one roof. It’s business suits, shirts, jackets and coats or their more casual located just outside city limits, but it’s easy to get there. jeans, sweaters and leather jackets. They also produce Take the S3, S9 or S12 train to Stettbach and from there shoes and accessories like belts, scarfs and wallets.QG‑13, take tram 12 to the Glatt stop and you’ll be in this shopping Limmatquai 58, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 43 243 71 44, paradise in just 20 minutes.QNeue Winterthurerstrasse 99, Wallisellen, 8Glatt, tel. (+41) 44 839 42 42, www.strellson.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Mon, Tue 10:0008:58:51 Gant_AD_FINAL_124x90_PROD.pdf 1 13.03.2018 www.glatt.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

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June – July 2018 49


Shopping OUTDOOR CLOTHING & SPORTS NEW BURTON STORE ZÜRICH This is Zurich’s flagship store for the American snowboard and clothing manufacturer Burton. Founded in 1977 by snowboarding pioneer Jake Burton Carpenter, it has become one of the biggest and best known brands for winter sporting goods. In addition to snowboard apparel, accessories and protective gear, Burton also offers outerwear, jackets and sweaters, bags and luggage, camping equipment such as tents and sleeping bags and much more, so you don’t have to be a hardcore mountain junky to find something here. QG‑12, Marktgasse 3/5, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 578 09 46, www.burton.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, closed Sun. The mo st l uxur i o us f ra gra n c e s and skincare in the wor ld SI N CE 1 9 2 1

BAHNHOFSTRASSE 17 | 8001 ZÜRICH | TEL.044 211 2030 | OSSWALD.CH

OCH SPORT At Och Sport you’ll find just about everything for any kind of sports on three storeys: tennis, badminton, trekking, running, skiing, swimming and much more - they have it all. On top of this huge choice, there is also fashion and outerwear - but sports definitely comes first here. Sister shop at Limmatquai 78.QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 56, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 215 21 21, www.ochsport.ch. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Thu 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

IM VIADUKT More than 30 shops and a market hall for groceries nestled under the arches of a railway viaduct built in the 19th century. Not a classic shopping mall but a street with one shop after another. The emphasis is on small and trendy fashion labels, studios and concept stores rather than the big luxury brands. In the market hall, more than 30 vendors offer their goods, like fresh food and cured meats.QD‑8, Limmatstrasse 259, 8Dammweg, www.im-viadukt.ch. Closed Sun.

Not just for mountain junkies: Burton Store.

Marktgasse 3-5 8001 Zürich Switzerland

50 Zurich In Your Pocket

BurtonStoreZuerich burtonstorezuerich www.burton.com

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THE NORTH FACE STORE The Zurich flagship store of the American outdoor company The North Face naturally features everything the brand has become famous for: outerwear, fleeces, shirts and footwear as well as equipment such as backpacks, tents and sleeping bags. It all definitely suits hikers and mountaineers but is also very chic for your hike through the urban jungle. QE‑12, Sihlstrasse 95, 8Sihlstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 210 07 17, www.thenorthface.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, closed Sun. zurich.inyourpocket.com


Shopping PERFUMES & BEAUTY OSSWALD Osswald is the specialist for perfumes and beauty products for facial care and spa treatments on Bahnhofstrasse. This  family-run business was founded in 1921 and still offers  excellent consulting services and beauty aids. Facial care products include Swiss brands like La Prairie, Cell Cosmet and Valmont, among many others, and the fragrances available are nearly endless including many niche brands from around the globe like Profumum Roma, Roja and Thameen. In their facial spa, they also offer medical and cosmetic facial treatments, but you’ll also find make-up, hair products, home fragrances and even accessories  for your bathroom here.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 17, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 211 20 30, www.osswald.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, closed Sun.

TOY STORES FRANZ CARL WEBER This is the toy shop to visit in the city centre conveniently located right next to the main station. There’s virtually anything you might desire on four huge floors from first toys for newborns to tech toys for grown-ups, not to mention books and toys from Switzerland. Your kids will absolutely love the slide that connects the first level with the ground floor.QF‑12, Bahnhofplatz 9, 8Bahnhofplatz/HB, tel. (+41) 44 225 78 78, www.fcw.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.

Time to take up sport again

SHOES, BAGS & BEACHWEAR MCM BOUTIQUE MCM stands for luxury bags, backpacks, wallets and accessories designed with a certain twist: lots of rivets, colourful subjects and high quality materials - the latest chic, one might say.QF‑13, Münsterhof 13, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 368 16 06, www.mcmworldwide.com. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Sat 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

Bahnhofstrasse 56 and Limmatquai 78 in Zurich. www.ochsport.ch

STEFI TALMAN Swiss designer Stefi Talman built her reputation in the 1980ies with a half boot called Zip featuring a zipper crossing the instep at an angle. Her collections of shoes and bags for women are still remarkable and are on offer in OCH_60x45_Anz_ZH_Pocket_e.indd her own boutique in the upper part of the old town.QG‑13, Oberdorfstrasse 13, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) 44 252 81 10, www.stefitalman.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Mon 12:00 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

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TA-BOU At Ta-Bou they sell bikinis the whole year round. And not just any bikinis, but their very own collection. This family business has been successfully designing and producing bikinis and swimsuits for exactly 40 years! You can buy each top or bottom piece individually.QF‑12, Uraniastrasse 31, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 221 08 11, www.ta-bou.com. Open 09:30 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, closed Sun.

SWISS DESIGN DIE MACHEREI A local collective of young designers presents its bags, fashion and furniture in this small shop at the Langstrasse end of the Europaallee. Unlike similar endeavours, the designers themselves actually sell their products here.You can find Sputnik Zurich’s puristic and functional reflecting bags, baiushki’s plain brass jewellery or Eszett chairs. And a chat with the designers is included here.QD‑10, Lagerstrasse 104, 8Sihlpost/HB, tel. (+41) 44 548 72 50, www.diemacherei.ch. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, closed Sun. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

Welcome to the most famous paradise of toys for children, since 1881. Bahnhofplatz 9 8001 Zürich 044 225 78 78 www.fcw.ch June – July 2018 51


Shopping FREITAG The Freitag brothers produce all kinds of bags made out of old truck tarpaulins and used seat belts from cars. They‘ve been at it since 1993 and with great success. The flagship store is made of 17 old freight containers stacked up to make a tower, so you can choose from hundreds of bags on four floors. From the top of the tower you can spot the trucks on the neighbouring ‘highway’-bridge across Zurich – and be inspired just as the Freitag brothers were when they had the same view from the window of their living room in the early 90s. QB‑8, Geroldstrasse 17, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 43 366 95 20, www.freitag.ch. Open 10:30 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

FABRIC FRONTLINE Exquisite foulards, scarfs, ties and coats all made of coloured, patterned silk, is what the Swiss family business Fabric Frontline specialises in. You can find it all in their store in the covered courtyard of the Credit Suisse building at Paradeplatz.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 25, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 222 20 00, www.fabricfrontline.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

SWISS FABRICS BOUTIQUE CHRISTIAN FISCHBACHER For nearly 200 years this family-owned Swiss company has produced fine fabrics for luxurious interiors. Drop by its Zurich boutique to find everything from finest bed linen, duvets, pillows and cushions to carpets, accessories and bath textiles. All of the standard sizes are available here, but the staff can also take custom orders. They’ll also be happy to help you find the perfect interior fabrics to match your personality and your home.QF‑13, Kappelergasse 11, 8Börsenstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 211 57 47, www.fischbacher.com. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 16:00. Closed Sun.

Find specialities form all over Switzerland at Berg und Tal.

PD

SWISS FOOD BERG UND TAL Located in Zurich’s first market hall in the Viadukt shopping mall, Berg und Tal - literally mountain and valley - sells delicacies and specialities from all over Switzerland. Sausages from the mountains, pasta from Ticino, syrups, jam, fruit liquor, cheese... and much more. As you’re here, stroll through the rest of the hall as well, as there are many more food specialities to explore.QD‑8, Limmatstrasse 231 (Im Viadukt), 8Dammweg, tel. (+41) 44 271 21 61, www.berg-tal.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. WELSCHLAND At this small delicatessen you can find all the specialities of the Romandie, the French speaking western part of Switzerland, where people are said to be more relaxed than around Zurich. Be it sausages (for example saucisses aux choux with cabbage) many cheeses, wines or absinth - it’s all there.QC‑12, Zweierstrasse 56, 8Bahnhof Wiedikon, tel. (+41) 43 243 98 50, www.welschland.com. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Closed Sun.

Luxury Bedding

Kappelergasse 11 8001 Zürich +41 44 211 57 47 WWW.FISCHBACHER.COM

52 Zurich In Your Pocket

SOUVENIRS DOLMETSCH They offer classic Swiss souvenirs and gifts such as the Swiss army knives from Victorinox, many watch brands as well as a large choice of Swiss textiles like T-Shirts and outdoor fashion. Free engraving service on Victorinox knives for customers directly in the shop. Sister shop Swiss Shop 1291 at ShopVille underground at the main railway station.QG‑11, Limmatquai 126, 8Central, tel. (+41) 44 251 55 44, www.dolmetsch.ch. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00, in summer Fri & Sat 09:00 - 22:00. zurich.inyourpocket.com


Shopping TEDDY’S SOUVENIR-SHOP At Teddy’s they have a wide range of souvenirs and gifts. Whether it’s watches, cowbells, hats, music boxes, soft toys, pocket knives or clothes you’re after: you’ll find it all at their shop on Limmatquai, just next to the church Grossmünster. And it’s not just souvenirs of Zurich, like beer glasses with the city’s coat of arms, but from all over Switzerland. For example the sännechutte, a traditional shirt worn by alpine herdsmen since days of yore. And yes, this souvenir shop is open even on Sundays.QG‑13, Limmatquai 34, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 261 22 89, www.teddyssouvenirshop.ch. Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 17:00.

EDELWEISS SHOP At the Edelweiss shop, they have a huge choice of souvenirs and gifts including clothing (with lots of Swiss crosses of course!), toys, bags, watches army knives and much more. The shop is situated at the exit of the big hall of the main railway station towards Bahnhofstrasse. They feature brands like Swiss Military and Alpine Club.QF‑11, Bahnhofplatz, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 43 497 23 80, www.edelweiss-shops.ch. Open 08:00 - 21:30. MENG CUTLERY Meng Cutlery just off Bahnhofstrasse offers classic Swiss souvenirs such as army knives by the famous brand Victorinox. Also in stock: other knives, scissors, watches and more ideas for gifts to take home. Sister shop at Poststrasse 4 (E-4).QF‑12, Rennweg 31, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 211 18 48, www.mengcutlery.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. MESSER-SCHARF Pocket knives are part of Swiss cultural heritage, and messer-scharf takes great pride in this heritage. You’ll find an extensive range of knives and other products by Victorinox, such as kitchen implements, watches or rucksacks. messerSwiss Shop 1291 Entrance Bahnhofstrasse 8001 Zürich, Shop Ville tel. +41 44 211 61 32 www.swiss-shop-1291.ch

scharf also stock high-end kitchen knives by Chroma. QG‑13, Oberdorfstrasse 25, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 251 01 20, www.messer-scharf.ch. Open 09:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 18:00. Closed Sun. SCHWEIZER HEIMATWERK Swiss handcrafted souvenirs of high quality: fashion accessories, toys, bells, books and fondue sets all with lots of Swiss crosses, red and white colours, cows and edelweiss. Sister shop at Bahnhofstrasse 2.QG‑12, Uraniastrasse 1, 8RudolfBrun-Brücke, tel. (+41) 44 222 19 55, www.heimatwerk.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. SWISS SHOP 1291 This shop offers classic Swiss souvenirs and gifts such as the Swiss army knives from Victorinox, many watch brands as well as a large choice of Swiss textiles like T-shirts and outdoor fashion. Sister shop Dolmetsch at Limmatquai 126 in the Niederdorf.QF‑11, ShopVille, entrance Bahnhofstrasse, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 44 211 61 32, www.swiss-shop-1291.ch. Open 09:00 - 21:00. ZÜRICHFOTO.CH Photographer Rolf Müllestein sells souvenirs of Zurich beyond army knives and cow bells: authentic black and white pictures of the city of Zurich, the old town, the lake. QG‑13, Kirchgasse 32, 8Kunsthaus, tel. (+41) 44 251 21 45, www.zuerichfoto.ch. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. funny Swiss souvenirs and Swiss textiles. We have largest range of Victorinox famous Swiss knives and engrave all knives for free in our shops within few minutes. We also sell most famous Swiss made watches.

Limmatquai 126, 8001 Zürich tel. +41 44 251 55 44 www.swiss-shop-1291.ch

Auswahl an Souvenirs und Schweizer T-Shirts, sowie Victorinox Taschenmesser und Swiss Made Uhren. Wir gravieren bei uns gekaufte Messer kostenlos vor Ihren Augen.

facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

June – July 2018 53


Watches & Jewellery Switzerland is the country of watches - yet another cliché? Actually, it couldn’t be more true. More than 95% of all watches with a value of over 1000Sfr are made in Switzerland! The Swiss watch industry started off in Geneva around 1600, founded by Huguenots who had fled France. Zurich however is a prime shopping spot for watches today. Whether on busy Bahnhofstrasse or in a quieter corner, you will find a huge selection of brands and models here. The next couple of pages will guide you! BEYER WATCHES & JEWELLERY For more than 250 years Beyer has been selling and repairing watches. The family business is now managed by the eighth generation. Beyer specializes in selling some of the world’s most sought-after brands, such as Patek Philippe, Rolex, Breguet, Hublot, IWC, Chopard and Cartier, as well as its own Beyer brand.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 31, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 43 344 63 63, www.beyer-ch.com. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Sat 09:30 - 16:00. Closed Sun. BUCHERER Jewellery and Swiss watch boutique established in 1888. Top brands like Rolex, IWC, Longines and Rado as well as their own brand Carl F. Bucherer.QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 50, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 211 26 35, www.bucherer.com. Open 09:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

TAX FREE SHOPPING As a foreign resident you are entitled to a refund when making purchases for more than 300Sfr (including VAT), provided the goods leave the country within 30 days. You will get back the VAT, which in Switzerland is only 7.7% - minus a handling fee. It’s as easy as this: watch out for the Global Blue - Tax Free sign. When paying, ask for a tax refund form. When leaving Switzerland, present your purchases, receipts and passport to Swiss customs officials. They will stamp your tax refund form. To claim an immediate refund, present your stamped tax refund form at a Global Blue refund point (e.g. at Zurich Airport or all around Europe). For more infos see www​.global-blue​.com. CHRIST WATCHES & JEWELRY With more than 70 shops, CHRIST is the biggest jeweler in Switzerland. Find top watch brands like Rado, Tag Heuer, Certina, Frederique Constant and their very own CHRIST Swiss Made as well as many fashion jewels. There are sister shops at the department stores St. Annahof (Bahnhofstrasse 57, F-12), Jelmoli (Seidengasse 1, F-12) and the shopping centre Sihlcity (Kalanderplatz 1, C-16).QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 78, 8Bahnhofstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 212 14 47, www.christ -swiss.ch. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. GELLNER & FRIENDS This is jewellery manufacturer Gellner’s flagship store in Switzerland and here it’s all about cultured pearls. The collection includes elegant earrings, bracelets, necklaces and daring rings, all designed and handmade at the factory. Apart from Gellner’s very own pieces, the shop also sells jewellery by Danish designer Ole Lynggaard, Dutch brand Minitials and renowned watches by Nomos Glashütte.QF‑12, Strehlgasse 27, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 552 24 03, www.gellnerandfriends.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, closed Sun. GÜBELIN Since 1854 Gübelin have been selling jewellery, watches and precious stones. You will find their own jewellery lines Deep Sea and Glowing Fire as well as many renowned watch brands such as IWC Schaffhausen and JaegerLeCoultre.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 36, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 387 52 20, www.guebelin.ch. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Sun.

Strehlgasse 27 | 8001 Zürich | gellnerandfriends.ch

IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN BOUTIQUE Swiss luxury watch manufacturer IWC Schaffhausen has its very own Zurich boutique. Find their iconic automatic watches, be it the Pilot’s series or the Aquatimer watch family and exclusive models only available in its flagship stores. All presented in a hyper designed shop which includes a relaxing lounge area.QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 61, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 211 00 55, www.iwc.com. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

54 Zurich In Your Pocket AZ_Gellner_NOMOS_Zuerichinyourpocket_60x90.indd 1

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Watches & Jewellery KURZ JEWELLERY AND WATCHES Kurz have a large selection of jewellery e.g. by Chopard and from their own workshops, as well as a broad range of mainly Swiss watch brands.QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 80, 8Bahnhofstrasse/HB, tel. (+41) 44 219 77 77, www.kurzschmuckuhren.ch. Open 09:15 - 18:30, Sat 09:15 - 17:00. Closed Sun. LES AMBASSADEURS Find a large selection of Swiss watches and jewellery at Les Ambassadeurs store. They have long established partnerships with leading brands such as Audemars Piguet, Blancpain, Breguet, Breitling, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Jaquet Droz, Longines, Vacheron Constantin, Omega as well as Pasquale Bruni and Pomellato. Their sales staff provide expert advice in many languages.QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 64, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 227 17 17, www.lesambassadeurs.ch. Open 09:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

www.christ-swiss.ch

WELCOME TO SWITZERLAND’S FIRST DESTINATION FOR WATCHES AND JEWELRY with a selection of more than 50 exclusive brands.

MONTBLANC ZURICH Watches, writing instruments and leather goods is what built Montblanc’s world renown. In their exquisite boutique on Bahnhofstrasse you will find the personal service you can expect of a brand like Montblanc.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 25, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 211 48 10, www.montblanc.ch. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

Les Ambassadeurs is one of many watch boutiques on Bahnhofstrasse.

PD

PARTIME This Swiss designer watch simultaneously shows the time of day and how much of the day is left. The blue area within a circle represents the amount of time still remaining in the day, while a white area gradually eats into the blue. Find it at Teddy’s Souvenir Shop and the retailers indicated on page 56 - 57, order it in the webshop, or ask for an express delivery to your hotel.QG‑13, Teddy’s Souvenir Shop, Limmatquai 34, tel. (+41) 43 422 00 11, www.partimewatch.com. Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.

I N T E R L A K E N | LU C E R N E | ZU R I C H | G E N E VA L AU S A N N E | M O N T R EU X | LU GA N O

ZEIT MEISTER This boutique right at Stauffacher is a specialist for watches (e.g. Rado, Tag Heuer, Mido) and jewellery, be it custommade in their studio or brands like Pera and Tomas Sabo. QD‑12, Badenerstrasse 16 - 18, 8Staufacher, tel. (+41) 44 242 30 30, www.zeit-meister.ch. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

June – July 2018 55


A. Lange & Söhne Audemars Piguet Balmain Baume & Mercier Bell & Ross Beyer Blancpain Breguet Breitling Bulgari Cartier Certina Charriol Chopard Corum De Grisogono Ebel Eterna Franck Muller Girard Perregaux Hublot IWC Schaffhausen Jaquet Droz Jaeger-LeCoultre Jowissa Longines Louis Erard Maurice Lacroix Mido Mondaine Movado Nomos Glashütte Omega Oris Parmigiani Fleurier Patek Philippe Piaget Quinting Rado Raymond Weil Rolex Swatch Swiss Military TAG Heuer Tiffany Tissot Ulysse Nardin Urwerk Victorinox Swiss Army Vulcain Wenger Zenith Zurich Partime

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Gübelin, Bahnhofstrasse 36

Christ, Bahnhofstrasse 78

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Gellner & Friends, Strehlgasse 27

Chopard Boutique, Bahnhofstrasse 40

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Galli, Theaterstrasse 16

Central Jewellery, Limmatquai 140

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Feist Daniel, Seefeldstrassse 45

Cartier Joailliers, Pelikanstrasse 6

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Dolmetsch, Limmatquai 126

Bulgari, Bahnhofstrasse 25

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Christian Uhren Schmuck, Limmatplatz 1

Breguet, Bahnhofstrasse 31

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Les Ambassadeurs, Bahnhofstrasse 64

Meister Uhren, Bahnhofstrasse 33

Meng Cutlery, Poststrasse 4

Meng Cutlery, Rennweg 31

messer-scharf, Oberdorfstrasse 25

Omega Boutique, Bahnhofstrasse 48

Oscar Stahel, Gerbergasse 5

Patek Philippe Boutique, Bahnhofstr. 31

Rolex Boutique, Bahnhofstrasse 17

Swatch Store, Bahnhofstrasse 52

Tiffany & Co, Bahnhofstrasse 14

Tissot Boutique, Bahnhofstrasse 94

Victorinox Flagship Store, Rennweg 58

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ZÜRICH BAHNHOFSTRASSE 64 +41 44 227 17 17 WWW.LESAMBASSADEURS.CH

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Lake Zurich June – July 2018 57


Zurich Nord The part of the city behind the two hills Käferberg and Zürichberg is commonly referred to as Zürich Nord. The districts 7, 11 and 12 used to be independent villages and merged with the city in 1934. Close to the airport they are now home to many international companies, the trade fair, some hotels and more and more restaurants and bars. You definitely don’t have to go to the city centre to have a good night out.

RESTAURANTS GIESSEREI OERLIKON The Giesserei has made itself a name as a fine dining restaurant, though the place still has a feel like the last workers just left this ancient foundry a couple of weeks ago. The menu is simple: every day there are a few different starters, main courses and desserts - an international mix according to the season and the desires of the kitchen crew.QF‑2, Birchstrasse 108, 8Regensbergerbrücke, tel. (+41) 43 205 10 10, www.diegiesserei.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 17:30 - 24:00, Sat 17:30 - 24:00, closed Sun, in July & August Sat & Sun closed. €€. A­B

small dishes at the table. Either way, make sure to try one of the papaya salads or the sai krok isan, a fermented pork sausage served with ginger and white cabbage.QH‑1, Tramstrasse 19, 8Sternen Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 43 540 28 08, www.facebook.com/JaoprayaThaiRestaurant. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €€. A KAI Close to the Oerlikon train station, the Kai is a classic sushi bar with a modern and stylish decor complete with conveyor belt: sit at the counter and grab one of the maki, nigiri or uramaki running by. There are tables as well and a lot more than just sushi: menu deals, fried noodles, meat... Saturday & Sunday night there is all you can eat sushi for 69Sfr - book seats in advance.QEllen-WidmannWeg 2, 8Bahnhof Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 43 538 42 47, www.kaisushi.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 17:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 17:30 - 23:00, kitchen open until 22:00. €€. A­B

JAO PRAYA We think that Jao Praya is one of the best and most authentic Thai restaurants in Zurich. For lunch it serves popular dishes buffet style, but at dinner time the place is frequented by many Thais who come for the a la carte dishes. Order the succulent hot pot or share a choice of

NIGHTLIFE

Everybody loves the vegetarian buffet at tibits.

GLEIS 9 Located in an old brick building, Track 9 is a bar and bistro close to the Oerlikon train station. We particularly like the separate bar room, but the Swiss lunch deals like bratwurst (veal sausage) with potato salad, pasta, grilled Italian sandwiches and curries are not bad either. The evening menu offers tartar and cordon bleu. And track 9 is one of the few places in town where you can still smoke indoors, in their smoker’s lounge. For a more sophisticated dining experience move over to their restaurant Perron 9.QG‑1, Affolternstr. 52, 8Bahnhof Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 43 288 94 44, www.gleis9.ch. Open 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A­K­X

LA FONTE On the outskirts of the city in Schwamendingen, you’ll find La Fonte, which offers genuine Italian hospitality and authentic  italianità (Italian character). The hosts Rosa and Giovanni fill the otherwise average rooms with their attentive spirit and the kitchen staff matches their efforts with perfectly baked  pizza and homemade pasta specialities. Try one of the huge calzones, which are called volcanoes here, but beware the table fireworks if someone celebrates their birthday here!QDübendorfstrasse 223, 8Probstei, tel. (+41) 44 321 91 51, www.la-fonte.ch. Open 10:45 - 14:00, 17:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 14:30, 17:00 - 23:00, closed Mon, Tue. A

JAIME EL BARCO The Jaime is a bar with a South American touch in Zurich Nord, just next to the Courtyard Marriott. Hot panini for a snack, a frozen daiquiri or a margarita from the cocktail menu or a beer will cheer you up after a hard day of walking or working. There is table football and darts - quite some entertainment in this part of the city.QOtto-Schütz-Weg 5, 8Bahnhof Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 44 310 21 70, www.jaime.ch. Open 09:00 14:00, 16:00 - 24:00. Closed Sat, Sun. E

TIBITS OERLIKON The bounteous vegetarian buffet is also the focal point of the tibits branch in Zurich Nord. Choose from around 40 homemade salads, hot daily specials, soups, sandwiches and sweets. Take it from us, it’s more than just tasty and many of the dishes are actually not just vegetarian, but vegan. The colourful wallpaper and the modern designer lamps make for the typical airy urban tibits atmosphere. QH‑1, Tramstrasse 2, 8Sternen Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 44 317 25 55, www.tibits.ch. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. €. A­B

58 Zurich In Your Pocket

PD

zurich.inyourpocket.com


Leisure There are plenty of things to do in and around Zurich. Show your friends and colleagues who’s boss with a competitive game of laser tag, billiards or bowling or show off your smarts in an escape room.

Laser Arena: there’s nothing more fun than a laser gun.

PD

FUN & GAMES LASER ARENA Yay! Zurich finally has laser tag! Hide behind obstacles on different floors and tag as many of your opponents with your laser gun as possible to score points. But watch out, or you might get tagged yourself. That said, it’s worth mentioning that unlike paintball, this is a completely harmless game, so no protective gear is required. All you need is a laser gun and a sensor on your chest to play. The Laser Arena is a big space that can accommodate up to 24 players and you can play with two big teams or split up into smaller groups. A game lasts 12 minutes and the person or team with the highest score wins. Make a reservation on its website or just drop by to have some great laser fun with friends, family or colleagues. They also run a paintball arena a 40-minutes drive from Zurich (www.paintball-arena.ch).QD‑15, Brandschenkestrasse 178, 8Waffenplatzstrasse, tel. (+41) 848 31 23 12, www.laser-arena.ch. Open Wed 14:00 - 22:00, Thu 18:00 - 22:00, Fri 18:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue. One 12-minute game costs 15Sfr for adults and 12Sfr for children under 16 years. Book more than two games and get a discount.

paintball-arena.ch

BILLIARDS & BOWLING BILLIARDINO Didn’t you want to remind your friends who is king of billiards? With 46 pool and 7 snooker tables, darts and videogames Billiardino is an entertainment Eldorado in the middle of the nightlife district Zurich West. Besides the sports there is a bar with pizza and pasta to please your stomach. You’ll find Billiardino behind the Abaton multiplex cinema.QC‑8, Heinrichstrasse 245, 8Escher-Wyss-Platz, tel. (+41) 43 960 33 33, www.billiardino.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 03:00, Sat 13:00 - 03:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. 25/28Sfr per hr. BOWLING WEST Bowling West is located in Schlieren, just three stops with the S-train from Zurich’s main train station (S12 or S3 direction Baden/Brugg or Aarau). In Schlieren cross to the northern side of the tracks and walk five minutes back in the direction where the train came from. This bowling centre has 17 lanes and a bar to relax after some gruelling competition. There is billiards, table football and darts as well. Booking by phone recommended.QIfangstrasse 8, Schlieren, tel. (+41) 44 731 02 06, www.bowling-west.ch. Open June - Aug 17:00 - 23:00, Wed 14:00 - 23:00, Fri 17:00 - 01:00, Sat 14:00- 01:00, Sun 14:00 - 22:00. 38 - 47Sfr per hour and lane. ZURICHESCAPE The basic idea of escape games is simple. You and your team are locked in a room and have 60 minutes to reach the exit. You achieve this by solving puzzles, finding hidden objects and working together as a team. Here you can choose between different rooms, each with its own theme. In addition to this, it also offers both indoor and outdoor escape missions. For these you’ll have to leave the premises to solve the riddles and accomplish the task. Games are meant for two to six players. No German is needed.QD‑11, Zeughausstrasse 51, 8Sihlpost/Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 43 317 19 19, www.zurichescape.ch. Games start 10:00 - 20:00. Book slots on its website. Prices start at 90Sfr.

laser-arena.ch

OBERER ZÜRICHSEE | ZÜRICH CITY | LUZERN | BASEL | BERN facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

June – July 2018 59


Day trips If you have some more time on your hands you might want to explore a bit further afield and leave Zurich for a day. With the warm weather here, it’s time to discover Switzerland’s stunning landscapes. Many scenic destinations also offer cultural sites. We’ve put together a selection of our favourites. And there are plenty of other options to consider such as museums and monasteries. For more recommendations check www.zurich.inyourpocket.com.

CULTURE & HERITAGE BRUNO WEBER PARK (SCULPTURE PARK) Architect and artist Bruno Weber’s (1931 - 2011) passion were huge concrete sculptures: from 1962 onwards he worked constantly on his sculpture garden around his home in Dietikon, just outside Zurich. The park features countless of his contemplative sculptures - mythical creatures, animal-like beings, mostly colourful and some of them even inhabitable. The highlights are a water garden with a winged dog more than 100 metres long and Weber’s fairytale castle like home - definitely a memorable experience. Get to Dietikon with the S3 or S9 train (duration 14 min). From there follow the sculpture path, there are signs or just follow the sculptures (30 minutes). You can also take Bus 306 to terminus (Stadthalle), from there follow the sculptures for some minutes.QZur Weinrebe 3, Dietikon, tel. (+41) 44 740 02 71, www.bruno-weber.com. Open only Wed, Sat & Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Admission 18/10/6Sfr, families 44Sfr.

BALLENBERG - SWISS OPEN-AIR MUSEUM In this open-air museum close to Brienz, in the Bernese Alps, you can explore ancient rural Swiss architecture, old-time gardens and craftwork of times long past. Dozens of centuries-old buildings from all over Switzerland were collected and rebuilt on site. There are also around 250 farm animals on site, e.g. hens, ducks, geese, rabbits, goats and cattle. The journey from Zurich by train and bus takes around 2.5 hours. QMuseumsstrasse 131, Hofstetten, tel. (+41) 33 952 10 30, www.ballenberg.ch. Open from April 14 to October 31, 2018, 10:00 - 17:00. Admission 24/12Sfr, families 54Sfr.

Where trees meet art and architecture: Enea Tree Museum.

VIEW TO A THRILL Explore Mt. Rigi now!

OPEN SKY Fully included in the Swiss Travel Pass

60 Zurich In Your Pocket

PD

ENEA TREE MUSEUM (BAUMMUSEUM) The world’s first and only tree museum is located on Lake Zurich, close to Rapperswil-Jona. A selection of trees from the collection of Swiss landscape architect and tree collector Enzo Enea are on display at the 75,000sqm park. By creating a series of open spaces the architect has shown how trees can be used as space creating objects while using their aesthetics and paying respect to the absolutely vital function they serve. Furthermore, the Enea tree collection uses only trees from the Central European climate zone. With this museum Enea thoroughly combined his vision of merging architecture, landscapes, botany, art and design. The museum boasts over 50 trees from more than 25 species, some of which are over 100 years old, and a further 100 trees and plants are located in the park surrounding the tree museum. Since 2013, sculptures by contemporary artists have been on display in the park, creating a unique choreography of art work and trees. A beautiful and definitely rather special experience. QBuechstrasse 12, Jona, tel. (+41) 55 225 55 55, www.enea.ch/baummuseum. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Admission 15/12Sfr. To get there from Zurich take a train to Rapperswil, than bus 622 to Buechstrasse West or St. Dionys (48 minutes all in all). zurich.inyourpocket.com


Day trips MOUNTAIN TOURS

Mount Rigi, far above Lake Lucerne. Quite heavenly.

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MOUNTAINS & NATURE BLAUSEE NATURE PARK Blausee is one of the best known Swiss mountain lakes, despite its small size. The name which simply means blue lake is a reference to its unique blue colour. There are walking trails, two restaurants, barbecue areas and a playground for kids. And you can cruise the lake with a glass-bottom boat. From Zurich, get there by train and bus in around two hours (change train in Bern and then take the bus in Frutigen).QBlausee, Kandergrund, tel. (+41) 33 672 33 33, www.blausee.ch. Open daily 09:00 - 21:00, admission 8/4Sfr. RHEINFALL - EUROPE’S TALLEST WATERFALL A trip to the Rheinfall makes for a great day out. Europe’s tallest waterfall is just a 50-minute train ride from Zurich. Close to the city of Schaffhausen, the water of the River Rhine plunges down an impressive 23 metres at a width of more than 150 metres. Two castles or schlösser watch over the waterfall: Schloss Laufen overlooks the top of the falls, Schlössli Wörth is situated at the bottom. By train it’s easiest to approach the falls from Neuhausen Rheinfall (take the S9 train directly from Zurich main train station). After a short walk you’ll arrive at the bottom of the falls. From here, you can take a boat over to the visitor centre (3/2Sfr) or to the rock in the middle of the waterfall (10:00 - 18:00 for 20/15Sfr). Stairs lead up the rock where you’re afforded a fantastic view of the falls, spray included. The visitor centre features an exhibition about the history of the Rheinfall (5/3Sfr).QNeuhausen am Rheinfall, www.rheinfall.ch.

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BEST OF SWITZERLAND TOURS Day trips organised by tour operators are an easy way to explore Switzerland and its gorgeous mountains. Forget the hassle with timetables, itineraries and the like. Just snuggle into your bus seat and let them guide you through the day. Best of Switzerland tours for example offers daily trips from Zurich to Pilatus, Rigi, Titlis and Jungfraujoch. For instance you can take the rotating gondola up to Titlis (more than 3000 metres asl), where an encounter with ice, snow and a glacier await you. They also have a city tour to Luzern. Just check their website for available tours and book up to a day before - online or by phone. The tour busses leave from the Zurich Bus terminal Sihlquai, just next to the Hauptbahnhof (main train station, F-10). Qwww.switzerland-tours.ch, tel. (+41) 44 710 50 50. RIGI - MOUNTAIN WITH A VIEW Mount Rigi (from regina, Latin for queen) is famous for spectacular views of the Alps and the easy access. The majestic mountain lies between Lake Lucerne, Lake Zug and Lake Lauerz. Don’t forget to bring a jacket as it can be chilly at 1,800 metres above sea level. There are two cogwheel railways going up the Rigi from two different sides, one starting in Arth-Goldau, the other one in Vitznau. The cogwheel railway leaving from Vitznau is Europe’s first mountain railway. At the top there are several restaurants, around 120 kilometres of hiking trails and covered picnic and barbecue spots. Hikers have the option of walking down just part of the way, as the train has several stops where you can jump back on. The fastest way from Zurich is to take a train to Arth-Goldau (40 minutes) from where the cogwheel train takes you to the top in another 40 minutes. QRigi Bahnen AG, Vitznau, tel. (+41) 41 399 87 87, www.rigi.ch. From Vitznau roughly from 09:00 - 22:00. From Weggis daily from 08:00 - 19:00. From Arth-Goldau from 08:00 - 18:00. Check website for exact timetables. Return ticket to Rigi (so called daypass) 72/36Sfr.

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Queer Zurich Zurich is undoubtedly Switzerland’s gay and lesbian capital and is in general quite queer-friendly. What better proof than the election of lesbian Corinne Mauch as mayor in 2009? Zurich’s vibrant queer scene was one of the driving forces in creating today’s club culture. Of course, some of the queer venues are cool places to hang out even if you’re hetero. Zurich’s queer calendar has several major events, all in spring or summer. For over ten years a Christopher Street Day has been held in June. Called Zurich Pride Festival (June 15 & 16, 2018, (www.zurichpridefestival.ch) today, this is a huge event with parties, open-air bars and a colourful march through the city. In spring the Pink Apple film festival (www.pinkapple.ch) shows gay and lesbian films from all over the world and awards a prize to a young director. But the queer scene is also very lively, big events aside. Whether you’re looking for a gay-friendly bar to relax in, gay and lesbian clubbing or venues of a more raunchy kind, you’ll find it in Zurich. Check out the websites or ask in some of the bars too.

PETRA’S TIP TOP BAR Chanson - or what is called schlager in German - is at the top of the menu here. But there’s enough Abba, Boney M and what have you as well. Host Peter is well known - especially for his drag performances. A cosy place for some nostalgic merrymaking.QH‑12, Seilergraben 13, 8Neumarkt, tel. (+41) 44 251 78 20, www.tip-top-bar.ch. Open 18:30 - late. Closed Mon, Sun. A PREDIGERHOF The Predigerhof in the centre of the Niederdorf area is a sure bet, open 365 days a year until two in the morning. Order one of their sandwiches and a beer - or step it up a little and choose one of their champagnes. Maybe Lotti, the famed landlady, will join you. You can ask the Thai and Swiss staff for tips for gay events - but maybe you’ll just want to stay here, if they’re showing a game of soccer or the Eurovision song contest.QG‑12, Mühlegasse 15, 8Rudolf-Brun Brücke, tel. (+41) 44 251 29 85, www.predigerhof.ch. Open 14:00 - 02:00. A

CLUBS HEAVEN The Heaven is a cosy queer club featuring music from charts and house to more underground tastes like deep house.QG‑12, Spitalgasse 5, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, www.heavenclub.ch. Open usually Fri & Sat 23:00 06:00. A

The Zurich Pride festival is an extravaganza.

Zurich Tourism

CAFÉS & BARS HELDENBAR Here you’re off the beaten track and on the territory of the non-commercial gay scene. The Heldenbar (hero’s bar) which only comes alive on Wednesdays is a purely non-profit affair. Sometimes the DJs are professional, sometimes totally amateur, the style of music changes from week to week. If you don’t want to dance, step outside with your beer for a chat on the banks of the river Limmat just behind the venue. Or take up a table-football challenge.QD‑8, Provitreff, Sihlquai 240, 8Quellenstrasse, www.heldenbar.ch. Open Wed 20:00 - 01:00. No admission. MÄNNERZONE A gay sex shop with fetish articles during the week (Tue to Fri 12:00 - 19:00 and Sat 12:00 - 17:00), the Männerzone (men’s zone) turns into a very popular gay bar on Fridays and particularly Saturdays. It’s men only and tends to be 30 and up, though there’s no official rule on age. It’s strictly a bar, no dancing, which maybe fits the many bearded, beary guys you’ll find here.QD‑11, Kernstrasse 57, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. (+41) 43 243 30 43, www.maennerzone.ch. Bar open Fri & Sat 21:30 - 02:30. 62 Zurich In Your Pocket

RAGE Rage is a factory of a cruising club with all the works darkrooms, slings, tubs and, of course, bars. Sector C is fetish pure, with a strict dresscode and changing themes. Only men are admitted. Get there by train to Schlieren station or with bus 31 to the stop Wagonsfabrik.QWagistrasse 13, Schlieren, www.rage.ch. In summer open only Fri 22:00 - 04:00 & Sat 22:00 - 05:00. Admission 8-20Sfr. A­X

RESOURCES GAYMEBOYS.COM ONLINE MAGAZINE This is a Zurich-centred gay online community with English-language content. There’s a chat area, personals and a listing of up-coming events and info on gay venues. It’s free, for some services you have to register.Qwww.gaymeboys.com. LGBT+ HELPLINE LGBT+ Helpline offers telephone counselling and operates as a registration office for homophobic violence. Counselling for non-emergency matters is available Mon - Thu 19:00 - 21:00. In case of homophobic violence you can call 24hrs to report the incident, or report the incident online. Counselling is in German but many counsellors speak at least some English. It’s free to call. The number is (+41) 800 133 133.Qtel. (+41) 800 133 133, www.lgbt-helpline.ch. zurich.inyourpocket.com


Hotels SYMBOL KEY P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted T Child-friendly

H Conference facilities

R Internet in room U Facilities for the disabled F Fitness centre

L Parking on site

K Restaurant

8 Nearest tram station

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

6 Animal friendly

W Wi-fi connection

J City centre location

Zurich is a business destination first and foremost - and hotel rates reflect that. From Friday night to Monday morning, prices often drop sharply. Why not take advantage of this and spend a weekend in one of the many four- and five-star hotels in the city? Despite this, accommodation in Zurich remains rather pricey and real budget accommodation is rare. But nevertheless there is something for any taste and almost any budget. In Switzerland hotels are officially categorized with stars from one to five. The categorization is done by hotelleriesuisse, the national hoteliers association. A hotel can also receive the supplement ‘superior’, indicating a higher level of service and quality. We list the hotels according to their official classification in the following categories: Cream of the Crop*****, Upmarket****, Midrange*** and Budget (0 to **). Outside this classification we list pensions - usually small and with less services than a hotel - and some of the hostels in town. Find more hotels on www.zurich.inyourpocket.com.

THE DOLDER GRAND Set high above the city, the five-star superior Dolder Grand is probably the city’s most exclusive hotel. In 2008 British architect Norman Foster added two meandering wings to the fairy-tale-castle main building from 1899 with its turrets and balconies. The result is an amazing mix of modernity and tradition. And no matter in which part of the hotel you book your room, the comfort and the amenities offered are uncountable. The sumptuous 4,000sqm in-house spa and the exquisite ballroom are just some of the elements that make this a truly extraordinary hotel.QKurhausstrasse 65, 8Römerhof, tel. (+41) 44 456 60 00, fax (+41 ) 44 456 60 01, www.thedoldergrand.com. 175 rooms. P­H­ A­R­6­U­F­L­K­D­C­W hhhhh

UPMARKET CONTINENTAL ZÜRICH - MGALLERY BY SOFITEL Entering this four-star hotel in a modern building just one tram stop away from the main train station you may be surprised by the Swiss chalet style with the generous use of wood. All rooms combine modern comforts with traditional chalet décor. For additional seating and desk space, free minibar and ironing services, take a superior room. On the first floor you’ll find the bar and diner L’entupada which serves small meals and drinks in an elegant atmosphere.QG‑10, Stampfenbachstrasse 60, 8Stampfenbachplatz, tel. (+41) 44 360 60 60, fax (+41) 44 360 60 61, www.sofitel.com. 138 rooms. P­J­H­ A­6­U­L­K­W hhhh

CREAM OF THE CROP RENAISSANCE ZURICH TOWER HOTEL This hotel opened in 2011 in the fast developing district Zurich West. The 300 rooms on the 15 floors of the pentagonal tower all come with full-height windows with a dazzling view over the ever-changing one-time industrial district. The rooms have a more than respectable size, stylish dark parquet flooring and either one king-size bed or two doubles (1.40m each). Aluminium prints of the industrial past of the district hanging on the walls make a counterpoint to the classy dark magenta easy-chairs and the standard lamps. There is a gym for your workout, a sauna, a restaurant and a bar - and room service of course.QA‑8, Turbinenstrasse 20, 8Technoparkstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 630 30 30, www.renaissancezurichtower.com. 300 rooms. P­H­A­R­6­U­F­L­K­D­W hhhhh facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

The castle-like Dolder Grand in summer attire.

Zeljko Gataric

COURTYARD BY MARRIOTT ZURICH NORTH Opened in 2006 in the new district north of Oerlikon train station and near the exhibition centre, the Courtyard by Marriott is just five minutes by train from the airport and seven from the city centre. Rooms have either a kingsize bed or two single ones and free tea and coffee. A small shop at the reception offers sandwiches and drinks around the clock. The max-restaurant, bar & lounge on the ground floor is a good place to start off your evening with an aperitif.QMax-Bill-Platz 19, 8Bahnhof Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 44 564 04 04, fax (+41) 44 564 04 00, www.courtyardzurich.com. 152 rooms. P­H­A­R­ U­F­L­K­W hhhh June – July 2018 63


Hotels BUDGET HOTELS LIMMATHOF The Limmathof is centrally located at the entrance to Niederdorf, close to the main train station and most of Zurich‘s sights. The rooms are plain and the furniture is a little long in the tooth - but all clean with nice wooden floors and soundproof windows. There is a TV and a shower or a bathtub in every room. Not a modern hotel, but quite cheap for its location.QG‑11, Limmatquai 142, 8Central, tel. (+41) 44 267 60 40, fax (+41) 44 262 02 17, www.limmathof.com. 55 rooms. J­A­6­K hh FIFA HOTEL ASCOT The Ascot opened in 1955 and was completely refurbished in 2010. The dark wooden furnishing is now the hallmark of the rooms which feature large beds, an armchair, an espresso machine, a flat-screen TV and free internet access. South facing rooms have balconies. The updated bathrooms are styled in vivid colours and have a bathtub. Both the lake and Bahnhofstrasse are just a few minutes away. There are direct trains to the airport from the train station Zurich Enge just across the square. Start your evening at the very British Turf Bar on the ground floor or enjoy steaks and seafood in the restaurant Ascot.QE‑15, Tessinerplatz 9, 8Bahnhof Enge, tel. (+41) 44 208 14 14, fax (+41) 44 208 14 20, www.ascot.ch. 74 rooms. P­J­H­A­6­L­K­W hhhh

GREULICH The Greulich offers spacious rooms and suites in the main building or loft-like ones in the two modernistic concrete constructions in the courtyard. The superior rooms have an additional living area. 150 birch trees adorn the courtyard like a land-art sculpture and make the garden of this hotel a quite inspiring place. Located close to Langstrasse district, it’s great for exploring urban Zurich.QB‑11, Herman-Greulich-Strasse 56, 8Bäckeranlage, tel. (+41) 43 243 42 43, fax (+41) 43 243 42 00, www.greulich.ch. 28 rooms. H­A­R­6­ U­L­K­X­W hhhh PALAIS KRAFT The Palais Kraft is one of the more unusual places to stay in Zurich. Located on Zürichberg, Zurich’s rather exclusive residential area, this luxurious private residence offers large studio rooms with high ceilings for long and short term stays as well as serviced apartments with 1 to 3 bedrooms. All studio rooms have wooden floors, a terrace, a flat-screen TV and a kitchenette with a microwave and fridge. With just a small number of rooms and apartments, the Kraft is able to provide a private and personal atmosphere. The tram gets you to the city centre in less than 15 minutes, the stop is just two minutes away. Air-conditioning available.QJ‑11, Kraftstrasse 33, 8Toblerplatz, tel. (+41) 44 388 84 85, fax (+41) 44 383 23 48, www.palaiskraft.com. A­R­ U­D­W­P

Eating with all senses THE VBZ GOURMET LINE On the VBZ gourmet line, we‘ll be serving you the most interesting views of Zurich in the rolling restaurant, a vintage tram. Please have a seat: www.vbz.ch/yummytram

genusslinie englisch 124 x 90mm.indd 64 Zurich In Your Pocket

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Hotels

SHERATON ZURICH HOTEL You’ll recognise the signature white framed windows with their irregular shape against the dark facade of the Sheraton tower from afar. Located in the fast developing former industrial district, the Sheraton features spacious rooms (31sqm) with parquet flooring and bathrooms with rain showers. There is a look-through from the bathroom to the bedroom, which can be closed for privacy. From the hotel’s gym you have an energizing view over the whole city, and from your room too, if you’re lucky. In some rooms you can actually sit on the window benches, leaning against the window quite cool. Café bar Nuovo and the steakhouse Route Twenty-Six on the ground floor.QPfingstweidstrasse 100, 8Toni-Areal, tel. (+41) 44 285 40 00, www.sheratonzurichhotel.com. 197 rooms. P­H­A­ R­6­U­F­L­B­K­W hhhh

palais kraft Residential Club

MID-RANGE CORONADO The Coronado is a functional three-star hotel close to University Irchel. The rooms all feature dark parquet flooring, a desk and a mini-bar. Doubles either come with two beds or one kingsize one. The tram stops just opposite the hotel and takes you to the centre in around 12 minutes or straight to the airport in 20. For a relaxing walk Irchel Park lies just opposite the street.QG‑5, Schaffhauserstrasse 137, 8Milchbuck, tel. (+41) 44 360 26 26, fax (+41) 44 360 26 36, www.hotel-coronado.ch. 40 rooms. P­H­ A­R­6­L­W hhh MONTANA The Montana’s rooms come in two categories: comfort and deluxe. The comfort rooms have parquet floors, coloured walls and shower cabins giving them a modern touch, while the deluxe rooms with antique-style furniture have a French flair. Easy access to both the old town and the Langstrasse nightlife district. No air-conditioning. QE‑10, Konradstrasse 39, 8Sihlquai/Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 43 366 60 00, fax (+41) 43 366 60 10, www.hotelmontana.ch. 74  rooms. J­A­6­U­L­ K­W hhh

YOUR PRIVATE APARTMENT 30-200 SQM FOR SHORT & LONG STAYS FRIENDLY ENGLISH SPEAKING STAFF CHILDREN & PETS WELCOME

HOSTELS YOUTH HOSTEL This modern youth hostel has four- and six-bed rooms with bunk beds and shared showers and toilets. All rooms have a small vestibule where lockers and the washbasin are located - so latecomers don‘t wake up the rest. There are also private doubles and four-bed rooms with en-suite bathrooms. 24 hours reception and cheap meals (20Sfr incl. soft drink). It‘s just a five-minute walk to the lake and 15 min by tram to the centre. On the weekends a night bus (N°12) stops right in front of the hostel all night long. Great place to meet other travellers.QMutschellenstrasse 114, 8Morgental, tel. (+41) 43 399 78 00, www.youthhostel.ch/zurich. 76 rooms. H­A­U­K­W facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

PLEASE VISIT OUR WEBSITE WWW.PALAISKRAFT.COM June – July 2018 65


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Ka

Ger olds tr.

Ei sg .

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r

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Z

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Neu g.

la n z sc hul str.

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National Museum

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Scale 1:8 800 1 cm = 88 m

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ZURICH CENTRE

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© OpenStreetMap contributors. Available under the Open Database License.


Index 4 Tiere 31 16tons 47 Airside Center at Zurich Airport  48 Alkena 44 Arthouse Movie 18 Ballenberg - Swiss Open-Air museum 60 Ban Song Thai 19 Bauernschänke 20 Bauschänzli 14 Bellevue 34 Belvoirpark 37 Berg und Tal 52 Best of Switzerland Tours 61 Best of Zurich - Zürich City Tour  40 Beyer Watches & Jewellery 54 Billiardino 59 Binz und Kunz 14 Blausee nature park 61 Bookbinders Design 47 Bootsvermietung Enge 12 Bootsvermietung Rytz + Kreuzer 12 Boutique Christian Fischbacher  52 Boutique Roma 48 Bowling West 59 Brasserie Federal 28 Bruno Weber Park (sculpture park) 60 Bucherer 54 Burton 50 Butchers Table 26 Café des Amis 29 Calvados Bar - Russia 2018 33 Calypso 34 Chäsalp 21 Chilees - Korean Burger 20 CHRIST Watches & Jewelry 54 Commercio 22 Continental Zürich - MGallery by Sofitel 63 Coronado 65 Corso 18 Didi's Frieden 21 Die Macherei 51 Dolmetsch 52 Edelweiss Shop 53 Elisaburg 30 Enea Tree Museum 60 Enzian 27 Exil 32 Fabric Frontline 52 Fat Tony 30 Felsenegg Lookout 15 FIFA Hotel Ascot 64 FIFA World Football Museum38 Fischer’s Fritz 20 Flea Market Bürkliplatz 40 Franz Carl Weber 44, 51 Frauenbadi (river baths) 11 Frau Gerolds Garten 15 Fraumünster 35 Freitag 52

Gaito Luxury Goods 48 GANT 48 Gaucho 25 gaymeboys.com online magazine 62 Gelati Tellhof 12 Gellner & Friends 54 Gemeinschaftszentren (community centres) 44 Giacometti murals 36 Giesserei Oerlikon 58 Glatt - Your First Shopping Destination 49 Gleis 9 58 Gräbli Bar 32 Greulich 64 Grossmünster 35 Gübelin 54 Heaven 62 Heldenbar 62 Helsinki 34 Helvti Diner Bellevue 20 Henrici 29 Honold La Confiserie 47 Huusbeiz 27 Im Viadukt 50 Italia 23 IWC Schaffhausen Boutique 54 Jaime El Barco 58 Jao Praya 58 Jelmoli 48 Kafi für Dich 45 Kai 58 Kaufleuten 34 Kauz 32 Kleine Freiheit 15 Kraftwerk 29 Kronenhalle 28 Kunsthaus 39 Kurz Jewellery and Watches 55 La Fonte 58 Lago 12 Lake Zurich Cruises 36 Laser Arena 59 La Stanza 29 Le Dézaley 21 Les Ambassadeurs 55 Les Halles 24 LGBT+ Helpline 62 Lily's 19 Limmathof 64 Lindenhof 36 Männerzone 62 Manor 48 Max Chocolatier 47 MCM Boutique 51 Mehrspur 32 Meng Cutlery 53 Mère Catherine 22 messer-scharf 53 Miki Ramen 24 Modissa 49 Mohrenkopf 26 Montana 65 Montblanc Zurich 55 Museum für Gestaltung Zürich

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(Museum of Design) 39 National Museum (Landesmuseum) 40 Neni 25 Oberer Letten (river baths) 12 Och Sport 50 Oepfelchammer 32 Old Crow 31 Orell Füssli - The Bookshop 47 Osswald 51 Paddy Reilly's 32 Palais Kraft 64 Partime 55 Péclard im Schober 29 Petra's Tip Top Bar 62 Plaza 34 Predigerhof 62 Public lake baths Mythenquai44 Quai 61 20 Rage 62 Renaissance Zurich Tower Hotel  63 Rheinfall - Europe's tallest waterfall 61 Rieter-Park 38 RiffRaff 18 Rigi - Mountain with a view 61 Rimini - Männerbad Schanzengraben 15 Roots 23 Rosenhofmarkt 40 Schweizer Finanzmuseum (Finance Museum) 40 Schweizer Heimatwerk 53 Seebad Enge 11 Segway City Tours 40 Sheraton Zurich Hotel 65 Sihlpost 8 Splendid Piano Bar 30 Stefi Talman 51 Storchen 22 Stories of the Old Town -

Guided walk 41 St. Peter 37 Strellson Store 49 Swiss Casinos Zürich 31 Swiss Shop 1291 53 Ta-Bou 51 Tales 31 Teddy's Souvenir-Shop 53 The Alehouse 30 The Dolder Grand 63 the Gallery 47 The International 31 The North Face Store 50 The Zurich Experience City Tour  41 tibits 23 tibits Oerlikon 58 Tina bar 31 Tobelhof 28 Uetliberg 36 Vapiano 23 Vineria Centrale 32 Wasserkirche 37 Welschland 52 Werdinsel (river pool AuHöngg) 12 Widder Garage 30 Wildnispark Zürich 44 Yooji's Bellevue 24 Youth Hostel 65 Zeit Meister 55 Zeughauskeller 28 Ziegelhütte 33 Zoological and Paleontological Museums of the University of Zurich 45 Zum Glatten Köbi 33 Zum Grobe Ernst - La Tavolata  24 Zum Grünen Glas 22 Zunfthaus zur Zimmerleuten 22 zürichfoto.ch 53

FEATURES INDEX Adult entertainment Breakfast Casino Cheese restaurants Contemporary architecture Lake Zurich Lakeside restaurants Language smarts Live music More for less with the Zürich Card National holidays Swiss cuisine Taxi smarts Tax free shopping Tourist Information Useful Zurich apps

34 29 31 21 38 36 20 8 32 39 8 26 6 54 9 7 June – July 2018 69


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