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Maps Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Events Hotels

Zurich August – September 2018

Zurich People

Meet Zürich West’s persistent promoter Christoph Gysi

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Contents Advertisement

Arriving & Getting Around

5

City Basics

7

History

10

Summertime 11

Open-air bars, river baths and hikes

Culture & Events 15 Concerts, shows and exhibitions

Zurich people 18 Meet Christoph Gysi, the defender of Zürich West

Restaurants

20

Cafés

30

Nightlife

31

Sightseeing

35

34

Shopping

43

Fancy fashion and Swiss design

Watches & Jewellery

52

Leisure

56

Zurich for kids

57

Day trips

60

Queer Zurich

62

Hotels

63

Fine dining, cheesy treats and much more

Lake Zurich offers many beautiful spots for swimming like here at Seebad Enge. Find them all in our summer special on p.11.

Chocolate, coffee and conversation

Bars, pubs and clubs

Zurich Nord

Restaurants and bars in the north of the city

Churches, murals and museums

Laser tag, escape rooms and billiards Major fun for minor citizens

Natural highlights and cultural heritage

Maps & Index Christoph Gysi is the president of the Kulturmeile Zürich West association. In our interview on p. 18 he talks about the challenges this entertainment district faces today. Advertisement

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66-68 69 70

City map Index Public transport map Advertisement

Oberdorfstrasse 25 - Zürich

August – September 2018 3


Foreword Zurich recently experienced a war… the war of the rental bikes. For years Zurich stood out as one of the few major European cities lacking an easy bike rental system with pick-up and drop off stations. Then last summer the Singapore-based company Obike flooded the city with cheap, poor-quality bikes as part of its free-floating rental system. You could locate, book and pick up the bikes via an app on your smartphone and park it nearly anywhere. The city was blindsided, as the bikes weren’t given official approval. In fact, the authorities weren’t even consulted. Only weeks later, another company called Lime, which had the same business model, entered the market. But the Californian enterprise had better bikes and no deposit was required. Thus, the battle began. Then Zürivelo - Publibike, the system licensed by the city, launched its high-quality bikes this spring, but only at fixed locations. Soon after that, the war claimed its first victims. Obike ceased its operations in Zurich and soon after the Singapore firm went bankrupt. It left hundreds of useless one-gear bikes in its wake, a local company drowning in debt and hundreds, if not thousands, of customers who had paid a 129Sfr deposit high and dry. But as in every war, there were also winners and this time it’s actually you! It has never been easier or more convenient to rent a bike and explore the city (see p. 6), so enjoy! Lukas Füglister has lived in Zurich for nearly 15 years now. As editor and general manager of Zurich In Your Pocket he made sharing his profound knowledge of the city his profession in 2010. He loves dining out, craft beer and tennis and never tires of exploring Zurich. lukas.fueglister@inyourpocket.com

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COVER STORY A boat cruise on the lake is a great way to experience the best that Zurich has to offer. The pier at Bürkliplatz (near Bellevue), on this issue’s cover, is the place to go to begin any trip on the city’s iconic body of water.

PUBLISHER & STAFF Publisher pocket publishing GmbH, Wuhrstrasse 15, 8003 Zürich tel. (+41) 32 510 85 76, zurich@inyourpocket​​​​​​​​​​​.com, www.inyourpocket.ch Member of Zürich Tourism / Spirit Club Yearly print run: 180 000 (6 x 30 000) ISSN 1663-9944 © pocket publishing GmbH 2018 Editor & General Manager Lukas Füglister Copy editor Mārtiņš Zaprauskis, Layout & Maps Tomáš Haman Photos For photographers see photos Cover © Zurich Tourism Sales manager Susi Haefeli, susi.haefeli@inyourpocket.com, (+41) 32 511 28 68, Ad rates at www.inyourpocket.ch, next issue’s closing date: September 11, 2018 Editor’s note & Copyright notice The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We assume no responsibiltiy for changes and errors. Content copyright pocket publishing GmbH. Photos copyright photographers. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. The brand name In Your Pocket and maps are used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, LT, tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

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Arriving & Getting Around ARRIVING BY PLANE Zurich International Airport (ZRH) lies 13 kilometres north of the city centre in Kloten and handles around 700 flights a day going to over 170 destinations worldwide. You can find ATMs and switzerlandinfo desks at Arrival 1 and Arrival 2 just after you pass customs. There you can find free copies of Zurich In Your Pocket. There is a big public shopping area with most shops open from 08:00 - 21:00 (groceries from 06:00 - 23:00) and free Wifi for the first 120 minutes, just connect your device to ’ZurichAirport’.

OFFICIAL INTERNET SHOP WWW.PARTIMEWATCH.COM

Getting to town: The easiest and fastest way to get to and from the airport is by train. Catch a train at the underground train station near terminals 1 and 2 - if the sign on the platform reads Zürich HB (HB = Hauptbahnhof = main station), it’s the right train. Up to 10 trains leave an hour and the journey takes roughly 10 minutes. Tickets can be bought at the counters or at the ticket machines (switch them to English on the first screen) next to the stairs leading down to the platforms. A ticket for an adult is 6.80Sfr and valid for one hour in the whole city (3 zones). If you plan to do more travelling by public transport, make it a 24-hour ticket for just twice the price or consider buying a Zürich Card (see p. 39). A taxi ride to central Zurich costs around 60Sfr. Official taxi stands are just outside Arrivals 1 and 2. Tram N°10 takes you from the airport via Oerlikon to Zurich main station as well. The journey takes 37 minutes and the same tickets valid for the trains can be used.

ARRIVING BY TRAIN Zurich’s main train station, referred to by locals as HB (short for Hauptbahnhof, say haa-bay), is right in the centre of the city. All international and domestic trains leave and arrive here. From the platforms just follow the herd towards the main hall, where you will find the main exit towards the city centre, the ticket offices and Tourist Information (see p. 9). Trams, buses and taxis leave just outside the station.

SWISS MADE

TO SEE THIS CUP YOU NEED TO MAKE IT TO THE WORLD CUP FINAL – OR TO ZURICH.

At the ticket office in the main hall you can buy train tickets (also available at the many ticket machines), tickets for public transport in Zurich and also change money. For timetables and tickets refer to www.sbb.ch, call tel. (+41) 900 300 300 (1.19Sfr/min) or download the ‘SBB Mobile’ app to your smartphone.

International buses as well as sightseeing coaches arrive and depart from the bus station (Bus Terminal Sihlquai, F‑10), a two-minute walk north of the main train station. There are also finally domestic inter-city buses in Switzerland, which began operating (by Eurobus) this summer. See www.swiss-express.ch. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

ARRIVING BY BUS

WWW.FIFAMUSEUM.COM Seestrasse 27, 8002 Zurich August – September 2018 5

ZIYP_60x90_en_Version Q1_2018_v03_hgs.indd 1

08.01.2018 16:08:16


Arriving & Getting Around ARRIVING BY CAR The Swiss highways A1, A2, A3 and A4 lead from all directions to Zurich and if you follow the signs to Zurich City, the city centre is quite easy to reach. But parking is scarce and very expensive. For overnight parking you can try to find a spot in the so-called blue zone in residential areas - parking there is free from 19:00 - 08:00. Indicate your arrival time on your parking disk. Driving in Switzerland is generally easy. If you’re using the motorways you have to buy a vignette for 40Sfr. Remember that trams always have the right of way, as well as pedestrians on zebra crossings without traffic lights. Headlights must be turned on all the time. The legal blood alcohol limit for drivers is 0.05%. The standard speed limit is 50km/h in urban areas, 80km/h outside towns and 120km/h on motorways. In residential zones, it is often 30km/h. Fines are high and Switzerland makes sure you pay the fine even if you have a foreign number plate. You may use your home driving licence.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT City transport Zurich’s public transport network includes trams, buses, local trains and even ships on the lake and the river. The ticket system is fairly simple: the regional network is divided into zones. You don’t buy tickets for a trip, but rather for a zone. The network of the city of Zurich is zone number 110 (see map p. 70). Tickets are valid in the chosen zones on

TAXI SMARTS Taxis in Zurich are in general clean, safe, reliable - and expensive. It‘s usually easy to get one, even at rush hour. The city sets the following maximum prices for taxis: initial fee 8Sfr, 5Sfr per kilometre, 80Sfr per hour. The actual fees have to be displayed on a sticker on the door of the car. In reality only two prices exist: the maximum fee and the lower one many companies charge (incl. the two listed below): initial fee (Basis on the sticker) 6Sfr, 3.80Sfr per kilometre (Distanz), 69Sfr per hour (Wartezeit). When taking a taxi from a stand, check the prices on their door. Yes, you are free to take any taxi at a stand. At official taxi stands, you will often find the more expensive ones (especially at the main train station). Taxi drivers have to and usually do use their metres. Cheating is rare. The ridesharing service Uber also operates in Zurich. You can order your driver easily by using its app. Fares are usually significantly cheaper than standard taxi fares (initial fee 3-6Sfr, 1.80 - 3.60Sfr per kilometre, 0.30 0.60Sfr per minute, higher if demand is higher). TAXI 444Qtel. (+41) 44 444 44 44, www.taxi444.ch. TAXI 7x7Qtel. (+41) 44 777 77 77, www.7x7.ch.

6 Zurich In Your Pocket

The triumphal entrance to Zurich’s main train station.

ZIYP

all kinds of transportation. A 24-hour pass for the city will cost you 8.80Sfr, a single ticket valid for one hour 4.40Sfr. Children up to five travel for free, 6 - 16 year-olds pay the half-fare (which is actually 3.10Sfr). Tickets can be bought at the ticket machines at nearly every stop (most take credit cards). You can also buy tickets on your smartphone via the ZVV Tickets app. It now has an integrated check-in ticket option that automatically charges you the best price for your ride (actually using the lezzgo app). Note that Uetliberg and the airport are not within zone 110. If you’re caught without a valid ticket you’ll be fined 90Sfr. Another option is the Zürich Card (27Sfr/24hrs, 53Sfr/72hrs), which is valid for zone 110 as well as between the airport and the city and it also gives you free admission to many museums. See p. 39 for more information. Public transport in Zurich runs roughly from 05:00 - 00:30. There are night buses all night from Friday to Saturday and from Saturday to Sunday to all parts of the city. They require a 5Sfr supplement to any valid ticket. Send a text message from your mobile with the word ’NZ’ to 988 to purchase the supplement by phone. Trains The train network is best for getting around Switzerland quickly and in comfort. For timetables visit www.sbb.ch. Tickets are sold at vending machines and at the counters in the main hall of Zurich’s main train station. Buy tickets with your smartphone using the SBB Mobile app, which even indicates which connections have supersaver tickets. You need to register with your credit card.

BICYCLES There are several hundred free-floating rental bikes available throughout Zurich. You simply download the respective app, register your credit card and then you’ll be able to see where the closest bike is located. Book it, find and unlock it with your phone and hop on! LIME, green, three gears, quite comfortable to ride. 1Sfr per half hour and no deposit.Qwww.limebike.com. ZÜRI VELO - PUBLIBIKE, comfortable high-quality bikes, but pick-up and return only at stations; e-bikes available. 3Sfr for the first 30 minutes. Qwww.publibike.ch zurich.inyourpocket.com


City Basics BASIC DATA Area Switzerland: 41285 km² Zurich (Canton): 1729 km² Zurich (City): 92 km² Population Switzerland: 8 million Zurich (city): 405,000 Official languages Switzerland: German, French, Italian, Romansh Zurich: German Local time Central European (GMT+1h)

CUSTOMS Switzerland is not a member of the European customs union. On the one hand that gives you the opportunity to buy real tax-free goods at airports when you are travelling from and to Switzerland. On the other hand there are tight restrictions on the goods you can take free of customs duty from Switzerland to your country. For EU-countries the following customs and tax allowances apply (for other countries check with the according customs authorities):

DRINKING The drinking age in Switzerland is 16 for wine and beer and 18 for spirits and alcopops. The standard sizes for beer are the 0.3 litre Stange (pronounce: shtang-eh) and the 0.5 litre Grosses (gro-sus). The long-standing medium-scale brewers are increasingly getting competition from local brewers. Check out Sprint, Paul, Chopfab or Appenzeller for instance. Swiss wines are also not to be underestimated. While the best come from further south, you’ll find some good Blauburgunders and Riesling Sylvaners from the Zurich region.

ELECTRICITY Electricity in Switzerland is 230 V, 50 Hz AC. Plug sockets are round and take three round pins - they can take Europlugs with two pins. If you are coming from the US or the UK (as well as from many other countries) you need an adaptor. Travellers from the US (and other countries with a a different voltage) additionally need a voltage converter.

HEALTH & EMERGENCY Emergency telephone numbers (operators usually speak basic English): Ambulance: 144 Police: 117 Fire brigade: 118 If you need medical attention, there are several walk-in medical centres, like Permanence at the main train station (facing Bahnhofstrasse), where you just pull a ticket and wait your turn ((+41) 44 215 44 44, Bahnhofplatz 15, open 07:00 - 22:00) or mediX (+41) 44 298 50 50, Badenerstrasse 41, open 07:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 18:00). Zurich also has three public hospitals with walk-in emergency units which are open 24 hours a day for urgent matters. EMERGENCY UNIT UNIVERSITÄTSSPITAL QH‑11, Rämistrasse 100, 8ETH/Universitätsspital, tel. (+41) 44 255 11 11. Open 24 hrs.

USEFUL ZURICH APPS The old town and St. Peter’s church from the towers of istock.com/AleksandarGeorgiev Grossmünster.

Tobacco: 200 (50 to some countries) cigarettes or 100 (20) cigarillos or 50 (10) cigars or 250 (50) g of smoking tobacco. Alcohol: 1 litre of spirits over 22% vol or 2 litres of spirits with less than 22% vol, 4 litres of still wine, 16 litres of beer. Other goods: Max value of all goods: 430 euros for air travellers and 300 euros for other travellers. Goods over these limits must be declared when entering an EU-country, additional taxes and VAT may apply. In Switzerland there is duty-free shopping for arriving passengers at airports. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

Our own app, In Your Pocket City Essentials, features only our favourite places in Zurich (and many other cities). Just as useful is the map, which is also available offline. It’s available for free on both iOS and Android. To download, simply go to iyp.me/app on your smartphone or scan the QR code on the front cover of this guide. The free ZVV-Timetable app provides real time doorto-door timetable information for all public transport within the canton of Zurich in English. It also tells you where the nearest stop is. With the free ZVV-Tickets app you can also buy tickets on the fly. It now even offers a check-in function, automatically charging you the best price for your ride when you finish travelling. August – September 2018 7


City Basics EMERGENCY UNIT STADTSPITAL TRIEMLI QBirmensdorferstrasse 497, 8Triemli, tel. (+41) 44 466 11 11. Open 24 hrs. EMERGENCY UNIT STADTSPITAL WAID QC‑4, Tièchestrasse 99, 8Bucheggplatz, tel. (+41) 44 366 20 55. Open 24 hrs. Pharmacies To find out where the next pharmacy (Apotheke in German) on duty is, call (+41) 900 55 35 55 (1.50 Sfr/min). The pharmacy at Bellevue is always open 24 hrs (G-14, Theaterstrasse 14, (+41) 44 266 62 22).

LANGUAGE Switzerland has four official languages: German (spoken by 64%), French (20%), Italian (6.5%) and Romansh (0.5%). Zurich lies in the German speaking part of the country, where people speak a German dialect, so called Swiss German or Schwyzerdütsch. Be it among friends, at work or when dealing with the authorities, people speak dialect. However, Swiss people use standard German, so-called Hochdeutsch, when writing and speaking at school.

MAIL & PHONE Post: Swiss post is generally reliable and also can take care of all your financial transactions. The Sihlpost is the post office with the longest opening hours (see below).

NATIONAL HOLIDAYS January 1 January 2 April 8, 2019 April 19, 2019 April 22, 2019 May 1 May 30, 2019 June 10, 2019 August 1 September 10, 2018 December 25

New Year Berchtold Day (local) Sechseläuten (Zurich only) Good Friday Easter Monday Labour Day (Zurich only) Ascension Whit Monday National Holiday Knabenschiessen (Zurich only) Christmas

MONEY The currency and legal tender of Switzerland is the Swiss franc (Sfr), which is divided in 100 rappen. There are banknotes of 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 1000 francs. The coins in use are 1, 2 and 5 francs as well as 5, 10, 20 and 50 rappen.You can change your money at the SBB change at the main railway station or any of the banks. Or just withdraw Swiss francs with your Maestro or your Plus card from one of the ubiquitous ATMs. Credit cards are widely accepted - both in shops and restaurants. Service is always included. At a restaurant however, if you were happy with the service, leave 5-10% of the bill as a tip.

Dialling: Switzerland’s calling code is +41. Zurich’s code is (0)44 or (0)43. We list the country code before all telephone numbers in parentheses. Of course you only have to use this if you are dialling from abroad. If you are already in Switzerland, just ignore the (+41) prefix, dial 0 and then the nine-digit number. SIHLPOST Zurich‘s central post office, open until late. Take a ticket and wait for your turn. QE‑11, Kasernenstrasse 97, 8Sihlpost, tel. (+41) 848 888 888. Open 06:30 - 22:30, Sat 06:30 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:30.

LANGUAGE SMARTS Here are some typical Swiss German words - it will be always appreciated if you use a few Swiss words. The ‘r‘ in Swiss German is rolled, the ‘ch’ is pronounced like in the Scottish loch. Mind your throat. Hello (formal)

Grüezi

(groo-e-tsi)

Goodbye (formal)

Adieu

(as in French)

Thank you

Merci

(mersi)

Sorry!

Entschuldigung!

(ent-shooldi-goong)

Excuse me!

Exgüsi!

(ex-gewsi)

Switzerland

D’Schwyz

(t’shviiits)

Cheers!

Zum Wohl!

(tsoom vol)

Zurich

Züri

(tsoori)

8 Zurich In Your Pocket

Deep blue lake, bright blue sky: Zurich in summer.

Zurich Tourism

POLITICS The Swiss like to consider their country the home of direct democracy and citizens here are regularly asked to take a stand on national issues. The two chambers of parliament are (mainly) elected in a proportional voting system and the seven-member government appointed by parliament always includes representatives of all of the four or five major parties. Switzerland is a federal republic consisting of 26 cantons, once sovereign states which retain some independence and have their own constitutions, parliaments and governments. Bern is the capital and the seat of the parliament and the federal authorities. Due to the understanding of political independence many locals favour, Switzerland is not a member of the EU. zurich.inyourpocket.com


City Basics RELIGION The Swiss are traditionally either Roman Catholic (42%) or Protestant (35%). The largest (and quite new) minority religious community are Muslims (4%). Zurich is traditionally Protestant, due to the ardent reformator Zwingli who put an end to partying here in the 16th century. But his grip has loosened somewhat in recent decades.

SAFETY

The best Zurich has to offer in one great app

Zurich is a safe city, and in fact there is no no-go area, even for single travellers at night. Be on guard against pickpockets just as in any European city.

SMOKING The legal age for smoking is 16. Smoking in public buildings and transport is illegal. However, restaurants and bars are allowed to have a separate smoking room (fumoir).

VISAS For a stay of up to three months, many foreigners simply need a passport or an ID card to enter Switzerland. Even though not a member of the European Union, Switzerland is a member of the Schengen Agreement. As a result a Schengen visa is valid for Switzerland as well. Always check these details with a Swiss embassy or consulate.

TOURIST INFORMATION The Tourist Information run by Zurich Tourism is conveniently located in the main hall of the main train station. This is a one-stop solution for all the information you might be missing - and much more. For personal advice at the counter, take a ticket and wait your turn. There are some pads for you to browse and check out the many offers like tours and venues - and you can pick up leaflets and a city map. But they don’t just have advice, they also offer the following services. They... • will book city tours and excursions • sell tickets for public transport, incl. the Swiss Travel Pass • sell the Zürich Card (see p. 39 for more infos) • can make hotel reservations • sell tickets for events and museums and souvenirs Last but not least you can always pick up the latest copy of Zurich In Your Pocket here - for free, of course. QG-11, Main hall of the main train station. Open 08:00 - 20:30, Sun 08:30 - 18:30. Additional pop-up Tourist Information stand at the Schweizer Heimatwerk store at Uraniastrasse  1, G-12. It’s open May to September Thu - Sat 11:00 18:00 (in July & August also on Mondays). facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

City Essentials Only our favourite places Works offline, incl. maps Free download Incl. dozens of other cities www.iyp.me/app

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

August – September 2018 9


History XVI Century Huldrych Zwingli, priest at the Grossmünster, was a major critic of mercenary service. But he had a lot more to say and became the initiator of the Reformation in Zurich from 1520 on. The Reformation meant an end to all frivolous behaviour - drinking, prostitution and actually most fun was forbidden or strictly regulated.

NAPOLEON CAUSES A BOTHER XVI - XVIII Century During the 16th and 17th Centuries Zurich’s wealth and influence increased. Among the intellectuals of the time were the educational reformer Heinrich Pestalozzi or the painter Johann Heinrich Füssli, whose work you’ll find today in the Kunsthaus. In 1798 Zurich lost its independence as Napoleon took over, transforming the Swiss Confederacy into the Helvetic Republic for a brief five years. Zurich’s somewhat grim reformator Huldrych Zwingli.

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ROMANS AND SCHWYZERDÜÜTSCH

RAILWAYS AND A STRIKE

100BC - X Century Around 15 BC the Romans established a military base at the site of today’s Lindenhof where you can find a copy of the Roman tomb stone mentioning Turicum, the word from which Zurich derives. Roman rule ended around 400 AD and nobody really has any idea what went on in Zurich for the next few centuries. One change was the arrival of the Germanic tribe of the Allemanni, who brought with them the language that was to become today’s Swiss German (Schwyzerdüütsch).

XIX - XX Century Modern-day Switzerland was founded in 1848 as a federation. The year before, the first railway line in Switzerland was opened. Railways were the business Alfred Escher was in. He dominated Zurich and Swiss politics for the next few decades. His statue can be found just in front of the main train station. Switzerland remained neutral during the First World War and was refuge to the artists who started the Dada movement in Zurich. The war exacerbated the poverty of the working classes and in 1918 a socialist committee called a general strike. Many of the committee’s demands were later fulfilled, though not the demand for the right of women to vote, which was not introduced until 1971!

ZURICH IN WOMEN’S HANDS

THE RÉDUIT AND THE WAR

XII - XIV Century In the 13th Century Zurich became an imperial city, answering only to the emperor of the Holy Roman Empire. Zurich was now headed by a woman the abbess of the Fraumünster abbey. In 1336 an uprising of Zurich’s craftsmen made the newly founded guilds the foundation of Zurich’s political structure. Many of the guild houses, still in use today, are now also restaurants like the Zunfthaus Zur Schmiden or the Zunfthaus am Neumarkt (emblem of the guild of the shoemakers on the left).

XX Century During most of the Second World War Switzerland, formally neutral, was totally surrounded by the Axis powers, making it difficult to import food and other goods. General Guisan prepared for a military attack by literally hollowing out the Alps, envisaging a guerrilla war from the mountains, the socalled réduit strategy.

ZURICH GOES SWISS…  AND PROTESTANT XIV - XVI Century In 1351 Zurich joined ’Switzerland’, which had existed as a treaty since 1291. This however didn’t stop the city waging war against fellow cantons, such as against Schwyz. Soon the city ruled over lands around Lake Zurich and north all the way to the river Rhine. 10 Zurich In Your Pocket

ZURICH TODAY XX - XXI Century After the war Switzerland’s economy boomed and mass immigration from Southern Europe set in, while culturally and politically Switzerland remained very conservative. In 1968 and 1980 youth movements clashed with police, but also brought new cultural life to Zurich. Today Zurich is still a major financial centre and has lost the conservative reputation. It has become popular as a place to live for highlyskilled workers from across Europe. This has made the lack of affordable apartments one of the major topics in Zurich today. zurich.inyourpocket.com


Summertime

At Frau Gerolds Garten, an urban wasteland has become a popular open-air bar (see p. 13). | PD

Summer is definitely a pleasant time to visit Zurich, even though it isn’t always just endless sunshine and flowers. Summer is not only the warmest, but also the wettest season in the city. Much of the rain comes as thunderstorms, and luckily they pass by as fast as they appear. There are plenty of great places to go on a hot day, especially swimming spots, open-air bars and squares. The numbers next to each venue refer to the map on p. 12.

SWIMMING & RELAXING With its lake and the River Limmat, Zurich offers plenty of grand opportunities for a swim. Yes, the water in both is cleaner than in most European cities and fine for swimming. Besides the possibility of just jumping into the lake anywhere (watch out for ships and boats), the city has 11 official outdoor swimming baths on the lake and the river, many with facilities such as cloakrooms, toilets, kiosks, etc. In 2018 they are open until September 10/16. For many of them an entrance fee is charged (8Sfr adults, 6Sfr from 16 - 20 years, 4Sfr kids), but the ones on the river are usually free. In the morning (07:00/09:00 - 11:00) they are usually open regardless of weather conditions. If it’s sunny closing time is usually 20:00. After that many of the baths turn into lively open-air bars. We list our favourite places by the water below. Remember swimming in the lake and especially the river is only for good swimmers. Bear in mind that there is not necessarily a lifeguard present even at official swimming facilities. If you’re swimming in the lake it’s advisable to wear a facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

coloured bathing cap so ships can see you better. Swimming in the River Limmat between the lake and the river swimming baths at Oberer Letten (close to the main station) is forbidden, as there is busy boat and ship traffic there. 1 FRAUENBADI (RIVER BATHS) You can find these nostalgic river baths in Art Nouveau style between Bürkliplatz and Münsterplatz – it’s women only. The baths feature two pools, one for swimmers and one for non-swimmers and two sunbathing areas, one not visible from the outside and one on the pier towards the river. Wed, Thu and Sun after 20:00 the Frauenbadi turns into a bar - for both sexes. You have to leave your shoes at the entrance. Wed there are cultural happenings.QG‑14, Stadthausquai 12, 8Bürkliplatz, tel. (+41) 44 211 95 92, www.barfussbar.ch. Open 09:00 - 19:30 (until Sept 16, 2018), Wed & Thu bar until 24:00, Sun evening open-air disco (16Sfr). Admission 8/6/4Sfr. 2 SEEBAD ENGE (LAKE POOL) The Enge lake baths are close to Port Enge on the southern side of the lake. It has a mixed and a women-only area, both with a pool construction which is in the lake filled with lake water and access to the lake proper. There are also three marked swimming lanes in the lake. The Enge pool is not recommended for kids. The Enge turns into a lively bar and restaurant in the evening - nice for having a beer with some meat from the barbecue while you dangle your feet in the water and enjoy the light lake breeze.QF‑16, Mythenquai 9, 8Rentenanstalt, tel. (+41) 44 201 38 89, www.tonttu.ch. Openuntil Sept 16, 08:00 - 20:00 (09:00 - 19:00 in May & Sept), bar until 24:00. Admission 8Sfr.

August – September 2018 11


Summertime

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5 UNTERER LETTEN This is wild river fun - in the middle of Zurich! Swim down stream for more than 100 metres without worrying how to get out again - there is a catch-grid with ladders to stop you at the end of the pool. You can also sunbathe on a wooden pier above the river. Kids can entertain themselves in the kids pool or in the playground. There is a kiosk selling ice cream as well as tapas and some options for dinner and

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4 STRANDBAD TIEFENBRUNNEN This is a big lido with a spacious lawn for sunbathing, not far from the train station Tiefenbrunnen on the eastern side of the lake. It’s good with kids as there is a pool in the lake for non-swimmers, a 62 metre water slide, a diving platform, a big playground, table tennis and volleyball. Facilities for barbecuing and a self-service restaurant on site.QBellerivestrasse 200, 8Wildbachstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 422 32 00. Open 09:00 20:00 (until Sept 16, 2018). 8/6/4Sfr.

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3 SEEBAD UTOQUAI (LAKE POOL) This charming wooden swimming palace built in the 19th century is situated on the Seefeld side of the lake. There are all the facilities you need, two non-swimmer pools, access to the lake and two sunbathing areas, one for men and one for women only. There is also a remarkable little restaurant with tapas and a salad buffet, some pasta dishes and meat from the grill - open to non-swimmers too.QH‑16, Utoquai, 8Kreuzstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 251 61 51. Open 07:00 20:00 (all weather) until Sept 23, 2018. 8/6/4Sfr.

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lunch (www.abreise.ch).QD‑7, Wasserwerkstrasse 141, 8Dammweg, tel. (+41) 44 362 10 80. Open 09:00 20:00 (May 10 until Sept 10, 2018). Admission free.

OPEN-AIR BARS & RESTAURANTS Many Zurich restaurants have pleasant outdoor seating areas, and Zurich inhabitants really love to eat or have a drink under the open sky during the summer months. Most bars and restaurants we list below are solely openair. That means they close when it’s raining. Many of the lake and river baths turn into lively bars in the evening. For more outdoor dining suggestions, check the Waterside restaurants category on page 29. 6 CHEZ HUGO Hugo transforms this small square right in the centre of the city into a tranquil summer retreat. Grab a drink or some food from the grill (burgers, sausages, veggie options) or choose some salads from the buffet and take a seat at one of the long wooden tables. Due to its location in the financial district, Hugo is frequented by business people and is actually busier for lunch then in the evening when less food options are available. But even if you’re not wearing a suit or a power dress, it’s a great spot to spend a warm summer evening.QF‑13, Talstrasse 82 (Basteiplatz), 8Paradeplatz tel. (+41) 79 220 73 34, www.chezhugo.ch. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Closed Sun. N

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Summertime 7 FRAU GEROLDS GARTEN Yet another attraction has sprouted up on the urban wasteland next to Hardbrücke station - the open-air bar and restaurant Frau Gerolds Garten, which sprawls over some 20,000m². Old shipping containers house the two bars and a kitchen and provide a terrace where you can sip a drink and enjoy the view over the sea of railway tracks and beyond. There really is a garden too, including vegetables, which apparently are used by the chefs. From the couple of daily changing menus on offer we chose a very decent crayfish salad with Thousand Island dressing. There’s also a charcoal grill serving sausages and a tent, providing dry seating even in the rain.QB‑8, Geroldstrasse 23, 8Hardbrücke, www.fraugerold.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00, Sun closed. A

WALKS & HEIGHTS Zurich is surrounded by woody hills, so why not climb one to take in the views? You can either hike up or let the train take you there - or even the cable car. An enjoyable endeavour either way. FELSENEGG LOOKOUT This short trip takes you up to one of the best lookout points in the Zurich area: Felsenegg. Getting up there with the only aerial cable car operating in the canton of Zurich is also fun. First, take the S4 train in the direction of Langnau-Gattikon and get off after 15 minutes at Adliswil. From there it’s a well-signposted 10-minute walk to the valley station of the aerial cable car, which leaves every 15 minutes for Felsenegg (summer 08:05 22:05, Sun 08:05 - 20:05). Once you’re up there, refresh yourself in the restaurant and of course take in the view of the city, the lake and the Alps. There are also many options for a walk. Follow the panorama trail to Uetliberg (90 minutes), where the S10 train will take you back to Zurich.QZelgstrasse 80, Adliswil, tel. (+41) 44 710 73 30, www.laf.ch. From Zurich a ticket for zones 110, 150, 155 is needed. Tickets valid for two hours: 8.80/4.40Sfr. For the cable car only: 4.40/3.10Sfr. The Albis daypass is your best option for the round trip: 17.60/8.80Sfr. The trip to Felsenegg and Uetliberg is also included with the Zürich Card.

Zurich’s residents love their water, especially here at Oberer Letten. 

Zurich Tourism

8 KAUFLEUTEN TERRASSE This open-air bar decorated with green plants and white umbrellas in the courtyard of Kaufleuten (enter from Talacker) is where the bankers of the city centre meet in summer for after-work drinks. While there are plenty of white shirts and business attire, you won’t be shunned if you’re dressed a little more casual. A DJ sets a relaxed tone for the eager ‘9 to 5ers’ who can be seen shedding their workday facades with cocktails, prosecco and the like from the bar. If you’re feeling peckish, order a Flammkuchen (Alsatian pizza).QF‑13, Talacker 34 (courtyard), 8Sihlstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 225 33 22, www.kaufleuten-terrasse.ch. Thu, Fri 17:30 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00. A 9 PRIMITIVO (OBERER LETTEN) The Primitivo is the summer institution at Oberer Letten: urbanistas flock here on warm summer nights to take a swim in the river and then drink at the bar. Shipping containers house the bar, as well as the kitchen which deals out tasty burgers, grilled sausages and fries and salads. This is as Mediterranean as Zurich gets - if the weather plays along, that is. Not only a good choice in the evening, but perfect for relaxing and reading in the afternoon too.QF‑9, Kloster-Fahr-Weg, 8Limmatplatz, www.primitivo.ch. Open daily 10:00 - 24:00, weather permitting. N

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www.laf.ch August – September 2018 13


Summertime ICE CREAM

Gelateria di Berna

10 SUMMERGARTE Summergarte is an open-air restaurant with an alternative feel and awesome meat and fish from the charcoal grill in the courtyard of an old arsenal. Simply order your food and drinks at the bar-trailer and take a seat. They will call your name when your food is ready. We usually don’t go crazy about food too easily, but the lamb and the salmon here were grilled to perfection and the different salads that came along with them were truly excellent. Strongly recommended! If you don’t mind sitting with other people at long tables, that is.QD‑11, Zeughaushof / Zeughausstrasse, 8Sihlpost, tel. (+41) 77 455 12 90, www.summergarte.ch. Open 11:30 - 23:00, Sat & Sun 16:00 - 23:00 (food - 14:00 and starting 18:00, grill evening only). Mixed grill platters around 30Sfr per person, including side dishes. N

12 GELATERIA DI BERNA The Gelateria di Berna is all the rage and rightly so! Their handcrafted Italian-style ice cream is worth queuing for (and yes, you will have to queue). To make sure it’s not just about the eccentric flavours (think ginger/ fruit mixes and the like), we tasted a classic vanilla and chocolate in a cone and were delighted. So buy some gelato and then take a seat on one of the benches on Brupbacherplatz or stroll over to Idaplatz and enjoy the Zurich summer while it lasts.QB‑12, Weststrasse 196, 8Lochergut, www.gelateriadiberna.ch. Open 12:00 - 22:00. N

ON THE LAKE On a hot summer day, there’s nothing better than a cruise on the lake with a fresh breeze, so here then are some options. For cruises and round trips on offer by Lake Zurich Navigation Company ZSG see p. 36. BOAT RENTALS Why not rent a pedalo or a rowboat and take a cruise on Lake Zurich to enjoy the sun? Prices: pedalos 20 - 35Sfr/h, motorboats (6 - 8 HP) 58 - 70Sfr/h. No reservations, just show up and wait for one. BOOTSVERMIETUNG ENGEQF‑16, Mythenquai 25, tel. (+41) 44 211 22 62, www.bootsvermietung -zuerich.ch. Open 10:00 - sunset. BOOTSVERMIETUNG RYTZ + KREUZER QH‑16, Seefeldquai 8, tel. (+41) 79 673 58 38, www.bootsvermietung-seefeld.ch. In nice weather. LAGOQG‑15, Utoquai 6, tel. (+41) 44 262 22 20, www.lago-zuerich.ch. Open in nice weather. PIER 7 QG‑14, Limmatquai 7, tel. (+41) 44 261 70 56, www.pier7.ch. Open in nice weather. 14 Zurich In Your Pocket

Beer, salads and meat - a perfect summer evening at Summergarte.

ZIYP

NEW 11 ZUM GAUL A Gaul is a workhorse, and this one is friendly, if a bit stubborn - a real workhorse indeed. Its stable is a food truck-like container right next to Hardbrücke train station, just behind the alternative club Helsinki. You order your food right at the counter, where you’ll get a number. Then you take a seat at one of the tables  that are scattered around the ‘stable’ and wait until your number is called (when it’s busy you ‘ll need a little patience). On offer are burgers, sausages, wraps, soups and the like  as well as an ever-changing daily menu, all locally-sourced and of organic quality. The burger we had was tasty, the meat done medium just the way we like it, but if we were forced to find fault, the bun was perhaps toasted a touch too long. It’s worth mentioning that the workhorse preserved a lovely spot for his paddock in an area where modern glass buildings and concrete usually reign supreme.QB‑8, Geroldstrasse 35, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 78 704 12 71, www.zumgaul.ch. Open 09:30 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Closed Sun. N­

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Culture & Events Zurich offers a rich bouquet of culture, with its opera and ballet of (at least) European renown and a packed programme of excellent concerts. Pop and rock stars almost always stop in Zurich when touring the continent and Zurich also has a vibrant theatre scene, but unfortunately very few productions in English. Events are listed in the following categories: classical concerts, exhibitions, festivals, shows and rock & pop concerts. Within the sections it’s ordered by date. Of course there are many more events than we can list, so we recommend www.zueritipp.ch for more information.

CLASSICAL CONCERTS 22.08 & 23.08 19:30 » TONHALLE ORCHESTRA: FILM CONCERT

Condcutor: Frank Strobel; narrator: Manfred Callsen. Federico Fellini and  Nino Rota ‘Italian Night’.QB-8, Tonhalle Maag, Zahnradstrasse 22, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 206 34 34, 35 - 120Sfr, www.tonhalle-orchester.ch.

12.09 - 14.09 19:30»TONHALLE ORCHESTRA: SEASON OPENING CONCERT

Conductor: Semyon Bychkov; violin: Janine Jansen. Works by Alban Berg and Gustav Mahler.QB-8, Tonhalle Maag, Zahnradstrasse 22, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 206 34 34, 40 - 160Sfr, www.tonhalle-orchester.ch.

immerse themselves in an atmosphere suffused with light, colour and movement while creating a stage for the atelier’s multifaceted works. Its approach is interdisciplinary, international and spans all dimensions, from the coffee cup to the factory building. Its clients include Foscarini, Louis Vuitton, Nespresso  and  Röthlisberger and atelier oï also carries out self-initiated projects forever shaped by an interest in the manifold interrelations between materials, craftsmanship and form. Material studies, prototypes, products and pictures offer insights into both its  systematic and playful working methods.QE‑9, Museum für Gestaltung (Museum of Design), Ausstellungsstrasse 60, 8Museum für Gestaltung, Admission 10/8Sfr, www.museum-gestaltung.ch. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00, Mon closed.

07.06 - 21.10 » BEAD ART FROM AFRICA – THE MOTTAS COLLECTION

The exhibition on the aesthetic and meaning of beadwork focuses for the first time on women as artists. Whether in the shape of fine ornaments, impressive masks, or royal stools – bead art from southern, eastern and western Africa is admired for the delicacy of its workmanship and its diversity of styles. The Mottas Collection is an undisclosed treasure trove. In the exhibition old beadwork is juxtaposed with contemporary examples from South Africa. To this day, this significant cultural heritage remains a source of inspiration for artists and fashion designers.QD‑16, Museum Rietberg, Gablerstrasse 15, 8Museum Rietberg, tel. (+41) 44 206 31 31, www.rietberg.ch. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00, Mon closed

31.05 - 02.09 » IMI KNOEBEL - GUTEN MORGEN, WEISSES KÄTZCHEN

Renowned artist Imi Knoebel presents a large-scale show at Museum Haus Konstruktiv. Works that position Knoebel’s oeuvre in a dialogue with the historical legacy of constructivist, concrete and conceptual art have been selected for the exhibition. This includes key works, as well as pieces that were specially produced for this exhibition. QE‑12, Haus Konstruktiv, Selnaustrasse 25, 8Stauffacher, tel. (+41) 44 217 70 80, www.hauskonstruktiv.ch. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Wed 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Zurich’s very own Tonhalle Orchestra.

Paolo Dutto

19.09, 20.09 19:30 » TONHALLE ORCHESTRA

Conductor: Bernard Haitink; piano: Till Fellner. Works by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart and Anton Bruckner.QB-8, Tonhalle Maag, Zahnradstrasse 22, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 206 34 34, 40 - 185Sfr, www.tonhalle-orchester.ch.

EXHIBITIONS 02.03 - 30.09 » OÏPHORIE: ATELIER OÏ

To mark the opening of the refurbished main building of the Museum of Design, Swiss design agency atelier oï has staged several spacious installations in the large hall, which is now once again two stories high. The troika of the agency’s founding members lets visitors facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

OPERA & BALLET The Zurich Opera is a magnificent building near the lake shore built in 1891 by Austrian architects Ferdinand Fellner and Hermann Helmer. Check out the programme on their website. You can also buy tickets on the opera’s webpage, by phone or at the ticket office on site. Plays are usually with German and English subtitles. The shows of the Zurich Ballet Company directed by Christian Spuck take place here too.QF‑5, Opernhaus, Falkenstrasse 1, 8Opernhaus/Stadelhofen, tel. (+41) 44 268 66 66, www.opernhaus.ch. August – September 2018 15


Culture & Events 02.02 - 23.09 » WHAT DOES SWITZERLAND EAT?

We buy and consume food on a daily basis, but where do our tomatoes, maize and strawberries really come from? Why do we use a knife and fork? What did people eat in the past and what will we eat in the future? Visitors will encounter a range of set tables, each one covering a specific topic of the exhibition’s rich spectrum including trends and taboos, provenance and production, dining culture and table manners, hunger and affluence, meat consumption and the future of food. You’ll also see portraits of some of Switzerland’s leading chefs and famous cookbooks will reveal the significance of food preparation. Naturally, the main focus is on the culinary heritage of Switzerland. This includes classics such as fondue and muesli, but also lesser-known specialities from across of the country. QF‑10, National Museum (Landesmuseum), Museumstrasse 2, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 58 466 65 11, www.nationalmuseum.ch. Open 10:00 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.

FESTIVALS 19.07 - 31.08 » RUNDFUNK.FM

Every summer Zurich’s radio station rundfunk.fm occupies the courtyard of the National Museum for one month. The station specialises in mostly electronic tunes, so the centre of this summer festival is the Dancepaleis, where you can, of course, shake your booty. The bars and food stalls help to create a fun atmosphere, that’s especially good on a balmy night.QF‑10, National Museum (Landesmuseum), Museumstrasse 2, 8Hauptbahnhof, www.rundfunk.fm. Open daily 17:00 - 24:00.

11.08 13:00 » STREET PARADE

This year the Street Parade will rock the city of Zurich for the 27th time. Hundreds of thousands of participants and spectators will dance to electronic house and techno sounds in the open air. Expect dozens of stages and around 30 so-called love mobiles (moving stages) on the lakeside. Qwww.streetparade.com.

16.08 - 02.09 » ZÜRCHER THEATER SPEKTAKEL

During this 18-day festival for theatre enthusiasts and curious spectators, the Landiwiese Park on the western side of the lake will turn into a magical area filled with restaurants, food stalls and bars as well as numerous stages (one of them an open-air stage nearly on the lake) hosting dozens of different theatre and dance productions. But it’s also worth a visit even if you’re not into the performances as the atmosphere on a late summer evening is unbeatable. Imagine the scent of food in the air from all corners of the earth and street artists on every corner. It’s like entering some secret oriental bazaar! For a complete programme, visit www.theaterspektakel.ch.QLandiwiese, Landiwiese, 8Billoweg, www.theaterspektakel.ch. 16 Zurich In Your Pocket

22.08 - 25.08 » ZURICH OPENAIR

For a couple of years now, Zurich has had its very own open-air music festival! For four days a field just outside city limits in Rümlang becomes Switzerland’s centre of indie and electronic music. This year’s line-up includes top international acts like Imagine Dragons, Kendrick Lamar, Liam Gallagher, Die Antwoord and many more. Visit www.zurichopenair.ch for more details and tickets.QOpen Air Zürich, Rümlang, www.zurichopenair.ch.

The Street Parade draws hundreds of thousands of spectators. 

Street Parade Zürich

SHOWS 05.09 - 14.10 » CIRQUE DU SOLEIL - TOTEM

The world-famous Cirque du Soleil performs its show entitled Totem under the Grand Chapiteau at the former Hardturm football stadium. TOTEM follows the development of mankind from its amphibious origins to the modern dream of flying. Shows begin daily at 19:00 and on some days additional shows at 16:00, Sun 13:30 & 17:00. CLosed Mon. QHardturmbrache, Hardturmstrasse, 8Hardturm. www. cirquedusoleil.com.

25.09 - 30.09 » ALVIN AILEY AMERICAN DANCE THEATER

With its visionary belief that ‘dance is for everybody,’ Alvin Ailey and his dancers began changing the perception of American dance over  50 years ago. Today this is the most internationally successful dance company in the USA. To date, tens of millions of people in over 70 countries on five continents have been inspired by them. Shows start 19:30, Sat 14:00 & 19:30, Sun 17:00.QH‑1, Theater 11, Thurgauerstrasse 7, 8Messe/Hallenstadion, www.musical.ch. 44 - 104Sfr.

ROCK & POP CONCERTS 16.08 19:30 » JUSTIN TIMBERLAKE

Justin Timberlake is one of the most successful artists and pop stars of recent years. He is now on tour with his latest record Man of the Woods.QI‑1, Hallenstadion, Wallisellenstrasse 45, 8Messe/Hallenstadion, 144 - 279Sfr.

14.09 20:00 » THE ARISTOCRATS

The prog-rock band The Aristocrats and its frontman/guitarist Guthrie Govan have been influenced by a range of music zurich.inyourpocket.com


Culture & Events from 1970s fusion to Frank Zappa and even metal. They call themselves ‘A rowdy democracy of musicianship’. Hell, yeah!QF‑13, Kaufleuten, Pelikanstrasse 18, 8Sihlstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 225 33 22, 50 75Sfr, www.allblues.ch.

16.09 19:00 » MOTHER’S FINEST

Mother’s Finest is a wild mix of funk and hard rock. Since the 1970s they have influenced generations of musicians and now they’re back on stage themselves.QB‑7, Moods, Schiffbaustrasse 6, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 276 80 00, 50Sfr, www.moods.club.

22.09 20:30 » LIONEL LOUEKE TRIO

Lionel Loueke is an exceptional guitarist from Benin. His  sounds are an amazing fusion of jazz, West African music and rock. He will present his latest 2017 release ‘Obsession’ with his trio, with whom he has been touring for 15 years.QB‑7, Moods, Schiffbaustrasse 6, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 276 80 00, 38Sfr, www.moods.club.

CINEMAS Zurich has more than a dozen cinemas, many of them with more than one screen and the large ones with up to 12 screens. Traditionally films in Switzerland are shown in their original language with German and French subtitles. But the big multiplex cinemas that have displaced some of the smaller ones in the last two decades have started to show more and more movies dubbed in German. In smaller cinemas you can still watch all movies in the original language – lots of them in English of course. They are marked with the letters Edf in the programmes (English with German (Deutsch) and French subtitles) - a D (capital) indicates the movie is spoken in German. ARTHOUSE MOVIE There are six Arthouse cinemas in Zurich, most of them in old buildings with charm and style. The Arthouse Movie we list is the only one with more than one screen, showing studio and independent movies rather than blockbusters, just as the other Arthouse cinemas. QG‑13, Nägelihof 4, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 250 55 10, www.arthouse.ch. CORSO A four-screen multiplex at Bellevue. Screenings in the theatres holding between 120 and 750 spectators start in the afternoon. Mainly blockbuster movies in English. To call, it’s 1.50Sfr per call & min.QH‑14, Theaterstrasse 10, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) 900 556 789, www.kitag.ch.

Success has a name: Justin Timberlake.

Ryan McGinley

25.09 20:00 » JOSÉ GONZÀLEZ WITH THE STRING THEORY

The Swedish singer-songwriter José González is on tour with a large orchestra (The String Theory conducted by Patrick Christensen). But don’t worry, there will still be enough space for the wonderful voice and interlaced guitar play of González himself.QD‑11, Volkshaus, Stauffacherstrasse 60, 8Helvetiaplatz, 75 - 85Sfr, www.allblues.ch.

ZURCHER THEATER SPEKTAKEL

RIFFRAFF RiffRaff is a lovely cinema with four screens just off Langstrasse. Expect arthouse movies in their original languages, which is not necessarily English, here. When in doubt, ask for more information at the cashier’s desk. It also has two bars, which are perfect for a drink before or after the movie.QD‑9, Neugasse 57, 8Limmatplatz, tel. (+41) 44 444 22 00, www.riffraff.ch.

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theaterspektakel.ch ZTS_2018_Inserat_124x40 Abg.indd 1 facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

10.07.18 12:52 August – September 2018 17


Christoph Gysi: total commitment to Zürich West. | ZIYP

Zürich West’s tireless defender Christoph Gysi has been president of Vereinigung Kulturmeile Zürich West for many years, so he is, of course, one of the biggest promoters of the former industrial district. As one of its pioneers, he founded the restaurant Les Halles 20 years ago, which is an institution today. We asked him why Zurich West is no longer considered the nightlife district of the city and what is most important for its further development. He also reveals his favourite Zurich restaurants and bars.


Zurich people The former industrial district of Zürich West was for years the hip and daring district of Zurich, the in-place for clubbing, dining and entertainment. Some say, this is no longer true. What went wrong? Well, nothing went wrong really. Zürich West is definitely still an entertainment and nightlife district, but instead of the young and very wild, we now have a slightly wiser, more affluent crowd that frequents the district. That is not really a negative and is partly a natural development. Right now, the mix is still balanced and it’s still all happening here. But yes, we have to make sure that the district doesn’t turn into one for just elderly people. You are president of Vereinigung Kulturmeile Zürich West. What do you do to prevent the district from losing its fun nightlife status? On the one hand, we try to make sure that new housing projects offer flats for all kinds of social classes, which makes a district interesting. On the other hand, we need to keep the cultural offerings diverse and we must ensure that the district does not become too clean and high-end. In the last couple of years lots of highly subsidised institutions of the classic arts like the Schiffbau theatre house and the Tonhalle for classical music were built in our district, which don’t draw enough crowds to justify the money the city spent. Now we need a more daring cultural magnet, and we think that with the closing of the waste incineration plant in 2020, we’ve found the perfect location to realise the idea of a big culture and concert hall.

‘The city has a duty to bring back young, cheeky culture to Zürich West.’ Do you think the city will support the idea? Well, it won’t be easy, but we’ll fight for it. The city currently seems to have ideas for the plant such as a garage for snowploughs. We absolutely have to prevent that. This space is much too precious for such a purpose. After all these investments in the classical arts, the city has a duty to bring back some young, cheeky culture to Zürich West. What makes Zürich West special today? It’s the special mix of industrial charm, architecture, design, nightlife and shopping. We have to try to maintain this asset. What is your biggest wish for the future development of Zürich West? We definitely need more housing, which is essential for a lively district. With the many flats that have been built in the last years the district already works pretty well. A new cultural highlight, preferably the concert hall I mentioned before, would be important to keep visitor numbers high, which is important for shops and restaurants. In this way we can keep that Zürich West spirit, that unique mix alive. Besides Zürich West, why should someone visit Zurich? First of all, there is always so much going on in our city. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

There are so many events, maybe even too many. Zurich really has loads of cultural offerings. Also great, is Zurich’s compactness. It’s all here and the distances are so short. And Zurich has both, the metropolitan and the cosy. And does anything annoy you about Zurich? We are a Zwinglian city and one can still feel that. The city and its residents are over-ordered, everything is regulated and planned. Sometimes I wish there was some more room for spontaneity, some more dirt, metaphorically speaking. Which are your favourite restaurants in the city? I like institutions, restaurants that have existed for a long time and that last. I really like, for example, Haus zum Rüden on Limmatquai, not just because of the good Swiss cuisine, but because you can sit outdoors under the arches of this old house just opposite the River Limmat and enjoy the evening sun while watching the Limmtaschiff boat go by. Another long standing restaurant I like a lot is the district tavern Hornegg in Seefeld with its down-to-earth Swiss food. And just opposite, the Brasserie Seefeld is definitely my favourite Italian in town. And where do you go out? Where can we find you for a drink after work? I like the Hotel Rivington bar in the Prime Tower. This daring mix of an old bar in an all-modern glass building, the Swiss style outdoor furniture... I really like that. This place has that Zurich feeling for me. Gerolds Garten is also great for an after work drink. But my favourite bar is probably the bar at the Yonex badminton hall. I like the relaxed atmosphere there. And they have Johnny Cash in the jukebox! Whenever I show someone the district, we usually end up there. What is your favourite place in the city? I really like the Niederdorf district. It’s the mix of gastronomy, small shops and the historic houses that I love. I like the sound of the people walking on the cobblestones as that always reminds me of the holidays somehow. And where do you go to take a break and relax? If I need some time off, I jump on my bike and pedal to Ziegelhütte, a lovely and calm country inn at the edge of the city in Schwamendingen. From there I start my bike tour after some refreshment.

CHRISTOPH GYSI Christoph Gysi is president of Vereinigung Kulturmeile Zürich West that represents the businesses and restaurateurs of the fomrer indutrial district. 20 years ago he founded the Zürich West restaurant Les Halles (see p. 26) and he still runs this institution. As a true entrepreneur, he also runs a small marketing agency. His favourite places: Haus zum Rüden (p. 27), Hornegg (p. 27), Brasserie Seefeld (Horneggstrasse 15), Hotel Rivington (p. 31), Gerolds Garten (p. 13), Yonex Badminton (Geroldstr. 5, B-8), Ziegelhütte (p. 34). August – September 2018 19


Restaurants

There’s no lack of restaurants in Niederdorf. Let our restaurant chapter be your guide. | Zurich Tourism

Zurich has around 2,000 restaurants, bars and takeaways. No wonder you can find almost any kind of food imaginable: from down-to-earth Swiss to traditional Vietnamese, from Lebanese to Japanese and back again. But today many restaurants also cook in a mélange, international style and are not easily categorized. Nevertheless we have tried. We list the places we recommend within any particular category. For lunch, lots of restaurants offer special deals, usually considerably cheaper. Note that many restaurants close their kitchens between roughly 14:00 and 17:30 and in the evening at 22:00 or 23:00. For the evening we recommend you book a table. For more suggestions see www.zurich.inyourpocket.com.

SWEET BASIL This is not just your average Thai restaurant around the corner. Sweet Basil is a small, really friendly place with a tasteful decoration in black and white. But even more importantly, they cook very well. The so called Thai tapas we ordered for a starter, a mixed platter with shrimp cookies, spring rolls and the like didn’t just look awesome but tasted even better. The geng khary (yellow curry) we had as a main course was full of fresh tastes and as expected just a little spicy (the really spicy stuff is marked on the menu) and the service was friendly and attentive. A more than pleasant experience all in all. For lunch they offer some weekly changing deals .QD‑12, Bäckerstrasse 19, 8Stauffacher, tel. (+41) 44 240 33 55, www.sweet-basil.ch. Open 11:00 - 14:00, 18:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 14:30, 18:00 - 23:00, Closed Sun. €€. A­B

ASIAN NAGASUI The Nagasui is a pan-Asian restaurant serving everything from Vietnamese soups to Thai curries and Chinese treats. Tables are shared and service is quick. Don’t miss its papaya salad - it’s so gorgeous we have to take it every time we go there. Good place for a quick and tasty Asian meal. In summer it has pleasant outdoor seating towards the moat.QE‑13, Selnaustrasse 16, 8Stockerstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 288 38 88, www.nagasui.ch. Open 11:00 15:00, 18:00 - 22:00, Sat 18:00 - 23:00, Closed Sun. €€. A­B­J 20 Zurich In Your Pocket

SYMBOL & PRICE KEY A Credit cards accepted

X Smoker lounge

J City centre location

N No credit cards

8 Nearest tram station

C‑1 Map coordinates

€ €€ €€€ €€€€

most mains under 25Sfr most mains 25-40Sfr most mains 40-55Sfr most mains over 55Sfr zurich.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants BURGERS FORK & BOTTLE Fork & Bottle is a country-style inn at the Allmend (common land) recreation area at the foot of Zurich’s little mountain, the Uetliberg. If you like burgers, steaks, ribs, craft beer and the like in a down-to-earth, unhurried setting, it’s well worth a visit and easy to reach from the city centre with S-train 4 (direction Langnau-Gattikon, six minutes) to the Zürich Brunau stop. Our pulled pork and classic beef burger were served on a wooden board and were well-balanced and tasty. The craft beer menu features nearly 100 uncommon brews from local favourites to rare imports that have travelled all the way from New Zealand. As real hop heads we went for the Californication Swiss IPA and didn’t regret our choice. It has a lovely beer garden too. Note its rather early closing times. QAllmendstrasse 20, 8Zürich Brunau, tel. (+41) 44 201 18 17, www.forkandbottle.ch. Open 11:30 - 22:00, Tue 17:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Kitchen open 11:30 - 14:00, 17:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:30 - 22:00; mornings brunch only. €€. A­B THE BITE Burgers seem to be back on the locals’ hitlist. The Bite convinced us with its Classic burger - it was one of the best we have had in a long time. The beef was fried to perfection, the blend delicious and the cheddar cheese, the shallots and the sauces a great match. The home-made ketchup and cocktail sauces which came with the fries went down well too. We could do without some of the arty chichi - the drinks are served in jars and the burgers come on wooden chopping boards - but we would always come back for these burgers. QD‑11, Brauerstrasse 15, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. (+41) 44 242 30 00, www.thebite.ch. Open 11:30 - 13:30, 18:00 - 22:00, Tue 11:30 - 13:30, 18:00 - 21:30, Fri 11:30 - 13:30, 18:00 - 22:30, Sat 17:30 - 22:30, Closed Mon, Sun. €€. A­B

FRENCH MÈRE CATHERINE Mother Catherine’s menu majors in classics from Provence using plenty of fish, seafood, olives and rosemary. But she also does other French classics like onion soup or snails. Filled pasta like ravioles and cappelacci, usually home-made, are also standard features. The interior with uneven walls, dark tables and chequered tablecloths is pleasant and the kitchen reliable. The tiny bar Le Philosophe next door is good for a quiet drink.QG‑13, Nägelihof 3, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 250 59 40, www.commercio.ch.Open 11:30 - 24:00, kitchen open throughout until 22:15. €€. A­B­J BRASSERIE LIPP The real French brasserie experience in Zurich: sauerkraut (choucroute) with sausages, mussels (in summer not always available) with French fries, and a rich choice of sea food including oysters. The Art-Deco interior gives you a real feeling of Paris - but it’s in fact just off Bahnhofstrasse. The lift takes you up to the Jules Verne panorama bar in facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

Looks good, tastes even better: sharing plates at Bauernschänke. PD

the tower of the city’s observatory, a great place to finish your evening with a cocktail and stunning views over the city.QF‑12, Uraniastrasse 9, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 43 888 66 66, www.brasserie-lipp.ch. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 01:00, Sat 11:30 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00, Kitchen open until 24:00. €€€. A­B­J

FINE DINING BAUERNSCHÄNKE Bauernschänke offers fine dining in the casual atmosphere of an old town tavern. Award-winning chef Nenad  Mlinarevic  conjures up real delicacies, all served as plates to be shared. The braised celery with truffle  jus and parmesan cheese was by far the best celery dish we’ve ever had and the grilled asparagus with a Japanesestyle  onsen  egg served on an herbal vinaigrette was an exceptionally well-balanced composition. The deep fried and breaded poulard was crispy, yet incredibly tender and the chilli mayo gave it an unusual twist. For dessert we ordered a selection of cheeses and chocolate and an herb sorbet – the latter a daring composition, with an incredibly intense herbal flavour. The service was also beyond reproach and all in all we had a great night out.QG‑12, Rindermarkt 24, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 262 41 30, www.bauernschaenke.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00, Closed Sun, last orders 13:30 / 21:00. €€€. A­B­J

NEAR THE GROSSMÜNSTER „finest Provencal cuisine“ Nägelihof 3 8001 Zurich +41 44 250 59 40 commercio.ch arthouse.ch

August – September 2018 21


Restaurants MAISON MANESSE This is extraordinary avant-garde cuisine in a comfortable and easy-going setting, where the homey white wooden panelling sets the mood. The plates created by chef Fabian Spiquel change frequently and feature experimental cuisine and other unusual cooking styles. Sometimes you even have to lend a hand and help finish preparing the dishes. The tartar, for example, came with a recipe and some essences like Katsuobushi whiskey and we even grilled the rosemary, honey and goat cheese marshmallows ourselves on an open flame at the table. Although you can choose items from the à la carte menu, many opt for Spiquel’s Michelin-starred surprise menu (around 150Sfr). The flavours they create here are amazing, but relax, not everything is completely off the wall. A steak is still a steak, but the one we had here was probably the most tender we’ve had in a long time. Recommended!QC‑14, Hopfenstrasse 2, 8Schmiede Wiedikon, tel. (+41) 44 462 01 01, www.maisonmanesse.ch. Open 11:45 - 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00, Mon, Tue 11:45 - 14:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00, Closed Sun, closed for holidays July 22 - August 13, 2018. €€€€. A­B

GUILD HOUSES Zurich’s guilds or zünfte are prestigious men’s clubs today, and many own a handsome mediaeval or early modern guild house in the old town where they meet. Quite a few of these guild houses are also restaurants which cultivate a traditional, refined cuisine. ZUM GRÜNEN GLAS A little bit off the beaten track on the upper edge of Niederdorf, the Zum Grünen Glas offers notable Mediterranean-style cuisine in the noble atmosphere of an old guild house. The classic here is the beef tartar - it’s served either with basil and olives or Asian-style with wasabi and mango chutney. And yes, it’s very tasty. You will find fish, meat and some typical Zurich dishes like geschnetzeltes on the menu as well.QG‑13, Untere Zäune 15, 8Neumarkt, tel. (+41) 44 251 65 04, www.gruenesglas.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 17:30 - 23:00, Sat 17:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun, kitchen open until 22:00. €€. A­B­J

Umbrellas provide longed-for shade at Zur Waag.

Zurich Tourism

ZUNFTHAUS ZUR WAAG The red carpet, the crown glass windows with guild emblems and the old wooden chairs give the Waag guild house on Münsterplatz a distinguished atmosphere full of history. They serve Swiss classics and fish and meat specialities, all interpreted in a modern way: the cordon bleu (made with veal of course) came rolled and the mashed potatoes were served in a small glass jar on the plate. The food and the service were reliable, the local wine rich - only the mix of cheese we had for dessert was a bit uninspired for a restaurant of this class.QF‑13, Münsterhof 8, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 216 99 66, www.zunfthaus-zur-waag.ch. Open 08:00 - 24:00, kitchen open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 22:00. €€€. A­B­J

ITALIAN BINDELLA Bindella is dedicated to Venetian cuisine and it’s not just the Neo-Baroque interior: fish and seafood rule the menu. Meat lovers get their money‘s worth as well. Try spaghetti with clams (alle vongole) as a starter, continue with the chopped calf‘s liver with risotto and finish off with some Italian cheese. But no matter what you choose, if you like Italian food, we‘re convinced you will be more than pleased with what you get. The service is good, waiters are smart and friendly and the atmosphere is not exactly quiet but

THE CLASSIC ITALIAN RESTAURANT

22 Zurich In Your Pocket

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Restaurants all the more Italian.QF‑13, In Gassen 6, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 221 25 46, www.bindella.ch. Open 11:30 23:30, Sun 17:30 - 23:00. Nonstop kitchen until 22:00, Sun 21:30. €€€. A­B­J COMMERCIO While the heyday of Italian cinema may be over, this small ristorante brings cinema and italianità together in the most charming way. It stays lively well into the night, thanks also to the visitors of the Arthouse studio cinemas right next door. Surrounded by Art Deco elements, guests squeeze into the slightly tight seats to enjoy a plate of pasta, something the Commercio has got off to a fine art.QH‑14, Mühlebachstrasse 2, 8Stadelhofen, tel. (+41) 44 250 59 30, www.commercio.ch. Open 06:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00, kitchen open throughout until 23:00. €€. A­B­J

CHEESE RESTAURANTS

istock.com

The Swiss cheese specialities fondue and raclette originally come from the French-speaking areas of Switzerland. Fondue is a mix of melted cheese and white wine bubbling over a small burner which you dip bread cubes into, while raclette is pure melted cheese which is poured over boiled potatoes. The listed restaurants below are specialists. CHÄSALP Chäsalp is a former farm on top of Zürichberg, where fondue and raclette are now served in the ancient

IL GIGLIO Simple and down-to-earth Italian cuisine, that’s what chef Vito Giglio has been offering for years now with great success in his small ristorante. As Vito cooks with fresh ingredients from the market only, the handwritten menu changes daily. Choose from three starters and two main courses for lunch or go for the four-course menu in the evening (around 90Sfr): home-made pasta, meat and vegetables as a side dish and sweets. The Il Giglio is pricey, but serves excellent food.QD‑13, Weberstrasse 14, 8Stauffacher, tel. (+41) 44 242 85 97, www.ilgiglio.ch. Open 11:00 14:30, 18:30 - 23:30, Sat 18:30 - 23:30. Closed Sun, June - August closed Sat. Closed July 22 - August 12, 2018. €€€. A­B

and recently renovated stable. This gives you a kind of alpine-hut experience, which makes the extra bit of travel up the hill well worth it. It’s usually quite busy with both locals and tourists, especially on Saturdays and Sundays, when they do a good brunch. While there are 17 different kinds of fondue on offer, we recommend sticking to the house blend or the classic moitié-moité (we very much liked both). They have meat and Swiss style pasta too, but remember, this is the Cheese Alp (Chäsalp), not the steak hut. QTobelhofstrasse 236, 8Tobelhof (Bus 751), tel. (+41) 44 260 75 75, www.chaesalp.ch. Open 11:30 14:30, 17:30 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:30, 17:30 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €€. A­B LE DÉZALEY For decades Le Dézaley has been dedicated to dishes from Vaud in western Switzerland. The fondue prepared according to a family recipe is very tasty and also comes in a version with morel mushrooms. A typical starter is airdried meat - or instead of fondue try one of the regional sausages.QG‑13, Römergasse 7/9, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 251 61 29, www.le-dezaley.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:30, 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun, kitchen open until 23:00. €€. A­B­J

like a mounta in cottage

Tobelhofstrasse 236 (+41) 44 260 75 75 chaesalp.ch

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August – September 2018 23


Restaurants VEGETARIAN & VEGAN TIBITS The bounteous vegetarian buffet is the focal point of tibits - where everybody queues up to choose from around 40 home-made salads, hot daily specials, soups, sandwiches and sweets. It’s more than plain tasty, believe us. tibits is very popular for lunch, dinner or coffee with all kinds of people. Sister restaurant ‘tibits im NZZ bistro’ around the corner at Falkenstrasse 12, (+41) 44 260 32 12 (open 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00).QH‑15, Seefeldstrasse 2, 8Opernhaus, tel. (+41) 44 260 32 22, www.tibits.ch. Open 06:30 - 23:30, Fri 06:30 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:30, Food served until 30 min before closing. €. A­B­S­J­

ROSSO Some claim this restaurant makes the best pizzas in town. And well, they really are outstanding - very thin and with only a little topping. The rest of the menu can also keep up with the pizzas - the veal roast we had was excellent. Service is probably not the most pro-active and fast, but if you bring some patience, you definitely can spend a remarkable evening in this old industry hall. Rosso is always very busy - try to get a reservation on its website. If not you can still test your luck - or your patience - waiting for a table at the bar.QB‑8, Geroldstrasse 31, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 43 818 22 54, www.restaurant-rosso.ch. Open 11:30 - 00:30, Sat, Sun 17:00 - 00:30, kitchen open 11:45 - 14:00, and from 18:30 onwards. €€. A­B

HAUS HILTL Hiltl is Zurich’s vegetarian institution par excellence. It’s simply amazing what they do with purely vegetarian ingredients - and they’ve been doing it since 1898. Just grab a plate and pick from the huge choice of curries, chutneys, salads, tofu and a lot more… Take away and eating in the bar area is cheaper, while the restaurant area with table service and à la carte dishes offers more comfort. In the evening the bar doubles as a club.QF‑12, Sihlstrasse 28, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 227 70 00, www.hiltl.ch. Open 06:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. Bar/club Fri, Sat & Sun until 04:00. €€. A­B­S­J­ W

Simple, yet trendy interior design at Ooki.

GETTING THE BEST OUT OF FRUIT AND VEGETABLES.

PD

VAPIANO At Vapiano, the food is prepared as you watch. You order right from the chefs at the open kitchen, and once your freshly made pasta, salad or antipasto is ready, you take it straight to your seat. If you order a pizza, you’ll get a pager which will buzz for your attention when it comes out of the oven. All your orders are charged to a plastic card, you pay when you leave. The Vapiano concept is a success in 28 countries, and we do like the relaxed atmosphere and the fresh food à la minute. In Zurich you’ll find a second Vapiano at Sihlcity shopping centre (Kalanderplatz 9).QH‑14, Rämistrasse 8, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) 44 252 00 62, www.ch.vapiano.com. Open 11:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00, kitchen open all day, last orders 30 minutes before closing. €. A­B­J

INTERNATIONAL

Vegetarian & Vegan Restaurant Bar Take Away Catering Seefeldstr.2|Falkenstr.12 next to the Opera House, Zurich www.tibits.ch|www.tibits.co.uk

24 Zurich In Your Pocket

BLOCKHUS The rustic and solid Blockhus is an institution in the old town. The menu features a weird, but friendly confusion of Spanish, Swiss, Italian and even Thai dishes. One of the specialities of the house is the tartar, served in many variations. We really loved the spicy one with garlic and hot peppers. Locals and tourists are equally present here - usually a fair indicator for a good restaurant.QG‑14, Schifflände 4, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) 44 252 14 53, www.restaurant-blockhus.ch. Open 11:30 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 24:00. Closed Sun. €€. A­B­J zurich.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants NEW ONA POKÉ The protein bowl trend has definitely reached Zurich. At Ona Poké they serve Hawaiian poké bowls which you can adjust to your liking. First select your choice of carbs (rice, riso venere, quinoa or zucchini noodles), then your protein source (raw tuna, salmon, kingfish), next one of five sauces and then you select some toppings like avocado, ginger, mango or pomegranate, to name a few. If that sounds like too much work (like it did for us), there are also some signature bowls available. We tried the Tuna Laguna with black riso venere  and we were absolutely delighted. The sesame yuzu sauce blended nicely with the riso  and the tuna, while the sweet mango and the slightly spicy ginger provided a good contrast. You can also drink blended waters (ginger, cucumber, etc.), beers and cocktails. Its sister restaurant at Lochergut is also open on weekends (Sihlfeldstrasse 56, B-11).QE‑14, Bleicherweg 19, 8Stockerstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 991 19 19, www.onapoke.com. Open 07:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 18:00, closed Sun. €€. A­B

OOKI Although we have to admit that we haven’t been to Japan recently, the simple style of Ooki is what we imagine a trendy venue in Tokyo would look like, especially the bright wood panelling, the Japanese characters and the assorted knick-knacks. Japanese chef Ooki and his son specialise in ramen and udon noodle soups, kareeraisu (Japanese curry) and donburimono (rice dishes with toppings). We began our culinary journey with some ippinryouri, which are like tapas, and then moved on to gyoza dumplings, which were a real treat. The soups were also perfectly prepared, especially the thick udon noodles, which were remarkable. To finish off the experience we ordered ice cream served in a tasty rice dough. Reservations are essential, but if you can’t get one, try dropping by late and you might just find an empty seat or two.QB‑12, Zentralstrasse 53, 8Schmiede Wiedikon, tel. (+41) 44 461 15 86, www.ooki.tokyo. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00, Sun 18:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. €€. A­B

MEDITERRANEAN

Hawaiian poké bowls are the latest craze: Ona Poké.

PD

JAPANESE YOOJI’S BAHNHOFSTRASSE No matter if you prefer your sushi as a nice dinner at a table, a quick eat at the bar, to take away or from a kaiten (conveyor belt): the six Yooji’s in Zurich all serve good Japanese food. The one on Bahnhofstrasse features two stories and works as a self-service restaurant. Grab your sushi from the display cabinet and take a seat (or take it out) or sit at the bar and pick some more daring compositions from the kaiten. The following Yooji’s feature table service: Bellevue (St. Urbangasse 8), Dreikönig (Beethovenstrasse 32) Langstrasse district (Josefstrasse 112), Seefeld (Seefeldstrasse 115).QF‑11, Bahnhofstrasse 102, 8Bahnhofstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 212 12 25, www.yoojis.com. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00, kitchen closes 22:00. Kaiten (conveyor belt) starts 11:00. €€. A­B­S­J facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

CLOUDS Well, this is what we call a view! On the top floor of the Prime Tower you can gaze onto the whole city while having dinner or sipping on a cocktail. By choosing the Kitchen restaurant, the bistro or the bar, you also choose the part of the city you’ll be able to see. If you’re in Zurich West, at least go up for a quick drink! You can always get a tasty bite at the bistro, no matter the time of day. The restaurant serves perfectly executed meat and fish classics, some of them prepared in the open kitchen. There are vegetarian options too. For the restaurant book a table in advance. QB‑8, Maagplatz 5, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 404 30 00, www.clouds.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 22:30, Sat 18:30 - 22:30, Sun 10:00 - 15:00 (brunch), 18:30 - 22:00, from July 16 - August 19, 2018 open evenings only. Bistro open 09:00 - 23:00, Fri 09:00 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00, bar open 18:00 - 24:00, Fri & Sat 16:00 - 02:00, Mon & Sun closed. €€€€. A

RESTAURANT

HOME

DELIV

www.v apiano

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Bellevue · Rämistr. 8 / Sihlcity · Kalanderplatz www.vapiano.ch % 044 252 00 62 % 044 201 15 25

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Restaurants SWISS CUISINE What the Swiss like to eat at home and when out is ­ heavily influenced by their neighbours’ cuisine, especially the Italians. But what is real Swiss cuisine? Most Swiss would probably say: käsefondue (cheese fondue), a hot soup of cheese and white wine eaten by dunking cubes of bread in it. Delicious, but the smell can take getting used to. Raclette is another cheese speciality, melted cheese on potatoes served with different pickles and sides. Würste or sausages are also very Swiss, the bratwurst (usually veal) and cervelat (pork) being the most common. Züri gschnätzlets is a traditional Zurich dish, thin strips of veal cooked in a cream sauce, often with mushrooms. This is often served with rösti, a cake of fried grated potatoes, a bit like Spanish tortilla but also on the list of Swiss traditionals. Switzerland also has an impressive range of breads to go with the cheeses, e.g. the rich zopf (plaited loaf ) is a favourite for Sunday breakfasts. Fondue chinoise and fondue bourgignonne are not traditionally Swiss, strictly speaking, but these two meat fondues are very popular too. Both involve dipping meat into a pot, full of either hot broth (chinoise) or oil (bourgignonne) and then enjoying with a range of sauces and sides.

LES HALLES This garage-style restaurant offers mostly organic food from around the Mediterranean with a particularly French touch. The ever fresh moules et frites (mussels with French fries) are what a lot of people come here for, or the tasty beef tartar. The restaurant works like a market hall: you place your order at the kitchen corner and it‘s served to your table. It’s always very busy and loud - so come here rather for the outstanding fresh food and the industrial style than for a quiet evening with your significant other. There is also a delicatessen in the back. QB‑8, Pfingstweidstrasse 6, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 273 11 25, www.les-halles.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun, kitchen open until 13:45/22:00, Sat 18:00 - 22:00, snacks & tapas througout. €€. A­B

The lively, yet laid-back bustle at Les Halles.

Offers hearty traditional Swiss cuisine at affordable prices. Centrally located on Bahnhofstrasse at Paradeplatz.

PD

PIAZZA This is a little gem on Idaplatz, a square slightly off the beaten tourist track. On the menu is a mix of Swiss and French cuisine. On the more Swiss side there is veal schnitzel with salad or a plättli, a platter with dried meat and a selection of cheeses. And we can really recommend the moules (mussels, not always available) here. In summer there are plenty of outdoor tables on the square.QA‑12, Idaplatz 2, 8Lochergut, tel. (+41) 44 558 95 29, www.ida-piazza.ch. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00, closed Mon. €€. A­B

STEAKS & BARBECUE

open daily for reservations

26 Zurich In Your Pocket

11.30 – 23.00 +41 (0) 44 220 15 15 www.zeughauskeller.ch

GEORGE BAR & GRILL Located on the top floor of the same building that hosts the Zurich casino, the kind of swanky George boasts a great terrace with a great view over the city centre. But George is an allrounder: he offers a long wooden bar, a cosy librarystyle lounge and plenty of tables for lunch and dinner. Foodwise he mainly specialises in grilled meat, steaks and similar and some seafood. Very solid indeed.QE‑12, Sihlstrasse 50, 8Stauffacher, tel. (+41) 44 444 50 60, www.george-grill.ch. Open 11:30 - 24:00, Thu, Fri 11:30 02:00, Sat 16:00 - 02:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00, kitchen open throughout until 22:00, Thu - Sat 23:00. €€€. A­B­J zurich.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants SCHNUPF We like simple concepts, especially if they’re executed well and that’s definitely the case at Schnupf. The menu offers steaks, Argentinian entrecôtes to be precise, served with classic béarnaise sauce and fries. That’s pretty much all they do, but, oh, they do it so well. The steak was tender with a strong meaty flavour, the béarnaise creamy and rich and the thinly cut fries were perfectly crispy. And best of all, you can order as many of those tasty fries as you like! Schnupf has the added benefit of a pleasant traditional tavern-style atmosphere and even features some great cocktails. Why not order one of those for dessert?QD-10, Neufrankengasse 29, 8Bäckeranalage, tel. (+41) 44 291 92 73, www.schnupf.bar. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:00, closed Mon, Sun. €€€. A

SWISS As it’s sometimes hard to tell what Swiss cuisine really is (see box Swiss cuisine p. 26), we list some traditional restaurants here as well as some that interpret Swissness in a modern way. If you want to try the Swiss cheese specialities fondue and raclette, see the box on p. 23. We list the traditional Zurich beer halls in a separate category overleaf. They serve generous helpings of earthy local food - definitely not a bad way to explore Swiss cuisine either. DREIERLEI We had a truly delightful evening at Dreierlei where the sharing plates are named after the three main ingredients on the menu (Dreierlei means trilogy). We loved the whitefish (from Lake Zurich) with sloe berries and watercress and the three different sauces were a perfect match with the tender fish. The black venere risotto with goat’s milk cream cheese and yellow beetroot had some bite and was a pleasant combination of flavours. This is well-executed contemporary cuisine without being too chichi and the atmosphere at this ancient venue is homey. A good choice for an evening with your significant other.QB‑13, Zweierstrasse 114, 8Bahnhof Wiedikon, tel. (+41) 44 548 14 88, www.dreierlei-zueri.ch. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Sat 15:00 - 24:00, closed Mon, Sun. €€. A­B

Contemporary cuisine in a homey environment at Dreierlei.

PD

HAUS ZUM RÜDEN Dining in the Gothic room on the first floor of this distinct old guild house on Limmatquai transports you back in time. It’s extremely spacious with stone walls and the hardwood ceiling is a feast for the eyes. But have no fear as it’s not only your eyes can feast, but your other senses, too. The classic Swiss and French  cuisine features beef and  duck  as well as fish, which was exquisite, but be prepared to part with some of your cash. Leave room for excellent desserts or go all the way and order the six-course tasting menu (140Sfr), dessert included. It also has a bistro-style bar on the ground floor with an outdoor area and a simpler menu.QG‑13, Limmatquai 42, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 261 95 66, www.haus-zum-rueden.ch. Open 11:30 - 15:00, 18:30 23:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00, closed Mon, Sun. €€€. A­B­J­ HORNEGG In the Seefeld district, close to Tiefenbrunnen station, this place serves traditional, down-to-earth Swiss food in a rustic atmosphere as solid as ever. Come here for their great cordon bleu or the schnitzel - or go for the käseschnitte, a slice of bread with tomatoes, ham and cheese browned in the oven. Swiss people call a no-fuss restaurant like this a beiz - a compliment the Hornegg really deserves. QSeefeldstrasse 201, 8Bahnhof Tiefenbrunnen, tel. (+41) 44 422 41 40, www.restaurant-hornegg.ch. Open 08:30 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Closed Sun. €€. B

Mediterranean bar/restaurant/market hall, located at the heart of the culture and night-life district of Zurich West. Reservations: 044-273 11 25 or www.les-halles.ch facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

August – September 2018 27


Restaurants BEER HALLS RHEINFELDER BIERHALLE The Rheinfelder is one of the oldest beer halls in town: a place where workers, students, and business men alike go for the big portions, good prices and traditional down-to-earth food - and lots of beer of course. The waiters have a rough charm, but usually serve the desired dishes quickly: schweinsleberli (pork liver), bratwurst, kidney, rösti or chnöpfli (small ball-shaped noodles). If in doubt go for the jumbo-jumbo cordon bleu that the Rheinfelder is famous for. But beware: the waitress will poke fun at you if you can’t take this piece of meat the size of an elephant’s ear.QG‑11, Niederdorfstrasse 76, 8Central, tel. (+41) 44 251 54 64, www.rheinfelder.ch. Open 09:00 - 24:00, kitchen open until 23:15. €. A­B­J HUUSBEIZ We had a splendid evening at Huusbeiz and the cucumber starter had us convinced from the get go. Not only did the gin and cucumber sorbet served on a cold cucumber peel and starflower blossoms look great, it was also  a great pairing. For the main course we tried the pork belly plated over a variety of beans and green apples. The pork was crispy, a little sweet and bursting with flavour and we finished our meal with a superb chocolate mousse. We like the nose to tail approach of the kitchen crew and they also work with a variety of different meats, but at Huusbeiz it’s not just the food that’s great. Host Nicolas and the wait staff offered impeccable service and the atmosphere of dark wooden tables and panelled walls  is down to earth, just the way we like it.QA‑11, Badernerstrasse 310, 8Zypressenstrasse, tel. (+41) 43 931 77 90, www.huusbeiz.ch. Open 18:00 - 24:00, closed Sun. €€. A­ NEW LOTTI Lotti is an unpretentious Swiss-style restaurant right next to Bahnhofstrasse. The casual interior with old metal advertising signs, a high ceiling, a comfy bar and wooden tables is

OASIS ON ZÜRIBERG Tobelhofstrasse 236 (+41) 44 251 11 93 tobelhof.ch 28 Zurich In Your Pocket

charming, and so is the food. The rib-eye steak we had consisted of succulent beef raised in the Toggenburg region, the baked potato was perfectly soft inside and the cottage cheese and garden cress on top gave it an extra twist. We finished  by digging in to a rhubarb mousse with fresh strawberries, which balanced the light acidity of the rhubarb nicely. The concept here is to share plates, so there are a handful of cold dishes as well as some from the charcoal grill and the oven. A pleasant outdoor area on Werdmühleplatz is on offer.QF‑12, Werdmühleplatz 3, 8Bahnhofstrasse HB, tel. (+41) 43 399 01 01, www.lotti-lokal.ch. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Closed Sun. €€. A­B­J

Down-to-earth atmosphere and excellent food at Huusbeiz.

PD

MOHRENKOPF This is a pleasant place in plain style for Swiss fare, coffee and snacks or breakfast in the Niederdorf area, frequented by tourists and locals alike. The menu offers classics like chalbsgschnäzlets (veal in bite-size pieces) with rösti (hash browns) as well as more unusual dishes like capuns, an Alpine speciality of sausage and dumpling wrapped in chard leaves. Try them, they’re a treat. If you fancy a sweet to round off the meal, try a mohrenkopf, a chocolate covered marshmallow that gave the restaurant its name.QG‑12, Niederdorfstrasse 31, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. (+41) 44 262 05 45, www.mohrenkopf.info. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00, kitchen open non-stop until 22:00. €€. A­B­J TOBELHOF Located in an old farmhouse on Zürichberg on the edge of town, Tobelhof serves traditional Swiss food in the rustic atmosphere of a country inn. The local speciality geschnetzeltes with rösti was excellent: the small pieces of veal were tender, the cream sauce had a pleasant consistency and the rösti (hash browns) was crispy and firm. We were a little more daring in our choice of appetiser and tried the oxtail duo (the fried oxtail was truly divine, crispy and flavourful, but the clear broth could have been a touch stronger). The service was attentive and the iced coffee for dessert was sweet and delicious. In the summer it also offers a gorgeous terrace and getting there is easier than you might think. Take tram 5 or 6 (12 minutes from main station) to Kirche Fluntern and then bus 751 will drop you off right in front of the restaurant in only five minutes.QTobelhofstrasse 236, tel. (+41) 44 251 11 93, www.tobelhof.ch. Open 09:00 - 24:00. €€. A­B zurich.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants WATERSIDE RESTAURANTS

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FISCHSTUBE This fish restaurant lies on the shores of Lake Zurich in the Zürichhorn park. It was built for the Swiss national exhibition in 1939 and some of the buildings still have thatched roofs. On the menu are local fish dishes like pikeperch and whitefish as well as some meat dishes. The lovely terrace has a spectacular view over the lake. There is a lounge area and a self-service beer garden. QBellerivestrasse 160, 8Fröhlichstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 422 25 20, www.fischstube.ch. Open 11:30 24:00, kitchen open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 22:00 (Fri & Sat) 22:30 . €€€. A­B

ZEUGHAUSKELLER The Zeughauskeller (the arsenal) is situated in a mediaeval arsenal right on Bahnhofstrasse and serves good solid traditional Swiss fare: generous helpings of meat, sausages, schnitzel and roast. Popular with tourists, locals and lads out for the night, it’s a place where it’s easy to get to know people, as you share the big tables with other guests. Old military devices standing around are there to remind you where you are. So don’t get too drunk, or you might end up getting conscripted.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 28a, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 220 15 15, www.zeughauskeller.ch. Open 11:30 - 23:00, kitchen open until 22:00. €. A­B­J

SEEROSE On the western shore of lake Zurich, the ‘Water Lily’ attracts a hip and wealthy clientele. If you don’t have a private yacht handy, take bus N°161 from Bürkliplatz. The outdoor terrace is built out onto the lake and is very spectacular - but even if you’re inside, huge windows make sure you have a great view. The kitchen is international: from French through Spanish to Asian. And there is plenty of fish of course. You can’t go wrong if you take the house speciality, the tender tournedos de boeuf with sauce madagascar.QSeestrasse 493, 8Wollishofen, tel. (+41) 44 481 63 83, www.seerose.dinning.ch. Open 09:00 - 24:00. A­B

Zeughauskeller, the city’s former arsenal.

niederdorfstrasse 31 — 8001 zürich

continuing a tradition

since 1981

www.mohrenkopf.info facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

August – September 2018 29


Cafés Cafés in Zurich generally serve coffee Italian style (from ristretto to cappuccino) and many draw on the rich Swiss tradition of pastry and chocolate making. But there is no fixed definition of a café, most also serve alcoholic beverages, other snacks or even full meals and many double as bars in the evening rather than closing. BABU’S BAKERY You might have to queue to get one of this coffeehouse’s lovely sweets or excellent fresh sandwiches, but never mind, it’s worth every second of your time. Armchairs which remind us of our grandmothers’, wooden shelves filled with pottery and a fireplace make for a very cosy interior. And because you can not stay there forever, you can buy your favourite blend of coffee or tea, so you can enjoy some of Babu’s joys at home.QE‑12, Löwenstrasse 1, 8Sihlporte, tel. (+41) 44 212 87 45, www.babus.ch. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. A­B­J CAFÉ DU BONHEUR This French-style establishment is where the cool and slightly alternative crowd of District 4 loves to hang out, and so do we. Wooden tables, a concrete wall and industrial lamps set the tone and the coffee we had was solid. The croissant stuffed with scrambled eggs and bacon energised us for the rest of our Saturday, the service was friendly and getting all of the little extras we asked for wasn’t a problem. Bonheur also has a pleasant outdoor seating area on Bullingerplatz next to the fountain and serves lunch and dinner with a French twist. A good alternative to the city centre’s hipster cafés.QB‑10, Zypressenstrasse 115, 8Güterbahnhof, tel. (+41) 44 558 99 00, www.cafedubonheur.ch. Open 08:00 - 23:30, Sat 10:00 - 23:30, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. A­B

BREAKFAST Sunday breakfast is an institution in many Swiss families. Zopf is one of the mainstays of Swiss breakfasts, a rich white bread baked in the shape of a braid, which is served with butter, jam, honey, cheeses or cold meats. Swiss bakeries bake a huge variety of breads rye bread, corn bread or potato-and-walnut bread to name just a few - which add to the breakfast spread. Buttery croissants, called gipfeli in Swiss German, are also a favourite. Another breakfast dish with strong roots in Switzerland is müesli, made of oat flakes, grated apple, ground hazelnuts and yogurt in the classic birchermüesli version. Here are some of our favourite breakfast places: BABU’S good value basic Swiss breakfast (12.90Sfr), many cheese, meat and egg add-ons available. Opulent brunch options on the weekends (07:00 11:30, weekends all day.)Qsee above BEBEK nice à la carte breakfast variations with an oriental touch, every day until 16:00. QB-12, Badenerstr. 171 30 Zurich In Your Pocket

At Milchbar they brew coffee with techniques we haven’t even PD heard of.

MILCHBAR At Milchbar you can choose from a dazzling number of different brewing techniques, some of which we honestly hadn’t heard of before. There is filter coffee, syphon, V60, Aeropress, boiler and more. If none of this rings a bell with you, relax: they have a very nice espresso too. And it’s all totally laid-back, though stylish. They do lunches and in the evening it doubles as a bar and restaurant (first floor). QF‑13, Kappelergasse 16, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 211 90 12, www.milchbar.ch. Open 06:30 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. A­B­J SPHÈRES A few steps off Escher-Wyss Platz, Sphères is an adorable spot for a coffee break in Zürich West. Located in an old industrial building, Sphères is a bookshop too. They stock contemporary novels that are in step with the times, as well as photobooks and magazines. And of course you can browse through them while you enjoy your drink on the gallery. They sell beer, wines, whiskies and longdrinks too, so you might want to extend your stay well into the evening. For your appetite there are soups, salads, sandwiches and some tapas. Occasionally concerts and performances. QB‑6, Hardturmstrasse 66, 8Förrlibuckstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 440 66 22, www.spheres.cc. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 19:30. AB SPRÜNGLI CAFÉ Sprüngli has been around for 170 years and for locals it’s synonymous with excellent confectionery and chocolate. Their café is the place to stop for a coffee when shopping on Bahnhofstrasse. Try to get a window seat on the first floor overlooking Paradeplatz, order a coffee and choose something sweet from the display cabinet. Try their famed luxemburgerli, small macaroons with a light and airy cream filling in different flavours or some of their many varieties of chocolates. Unusually for Switzerland you pay at the cash desk when leaving.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 21, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 224 46 16, www.spruengli.ch. Open 07:00 - 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:30 - 17:30. A­B­J zurich.inyourpocket.com


Nightlife Zurich’s nightlife offers classy clubs, casual and alternative bars, as well as live-music venues and strip clubs. On the weekend people from almost half of Switzerland come to the city to have a good time. The main nightlife areas are Niederdorf in the old town (G-11/13), the streets around Langstrasse (C/D-10/11) and Zurich West (B/C-7/8). There is a lively club scene - but with dozens of bars around, barhopping can be just as much fun. A night out in Zurich can be great, but quite expensive. Most venues take credit cards, but if you’re heading for bars and clubs have some cash handy. If you prefer it on the quiet side, there are wine and cocktail bars in the old town and around Paradeplatz. Check out our listings. For more recommendations check www.zurich.inyourpocket.com

SYMBOL KEY A Credit cards accepted

N No credit cards

E Concerts

K Restaurant

J City centre location X Separate smoker’s lounge

CRAFT BEER BARS THE ALEHOUSE With 21 different craft beers on draught and on the hand pump, Alehouse is one of the best-stocked bars of its genre in town. You’re guaranteed to find a brew that suits you here, be it a hoppy IPA, a Belgian amber or perhaps a chocolate stout. You’ll find a complete list of what’s currently available on its website. The bartender is usually happy to give you a taster before ordering and the pub-like atmosphere is a favourite of students and expats, many of whom speak English. If you feel the need to strap on the old feedbag, they also do classic bar fare like burgers and fish and chips. QH‑10, Universitätstrasse 23, 8ETH/Universitätsspital, tel. (+41) 44 542 87 45, www.alehouse.ch. Open 10:00 24:00, Sat 16:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:30 - 22:00. A­K

CLASSY BARS It’s been overhauled, yet remains classy: Widder bar.

PD

CASUAL BARS HOTEL RIVINGTON & SONS A bar that looks like an old New Yorker bar (some parts are even claimed to originate from New York) located in the Prime Tower, the city’s only modern skyscraper, does it all add up? We have to admit, it does! Get drink classics and snacks at one of the two bars (on two stories), chill on the wooden benches or get lost in the almost spooky staircase, complete with hunting trophies and white tiles.QB‑8, Hardstrasse 201, tel. (+41) 43 366 90 82, www.hotelrivingtonandsons.ch. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Mon 07:00 - 23:00, Thu 07:00 - 01:00, Fri 07:00 - 02:00, Sat 18:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. A SAFARI BAR A simple, cool bar frequented by locals, just off the main pedestrian street in Niederdorf. Come here for a chat with your friends at one of the tables - or grab a seat at the long bar where it is easy to get talking to others. In the background there is usually rock music - and if you have a drink in mind which is not on the menu - just ask for it. If they have the ingredients, they will be happy to prepare it for you.QG‑11, Zähringerstrasse 29, 8Central, tel. (+41) 44 262 12 40, www.safaribar.ch. Open 12:00 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:30, Sun 18:00 - 24:00. A­J facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

CARLTON The polished wooden counter, the wooden floor and the huge mysterious ladies painted on the walls make this bar a stylish venue. Table service includes dozens of cocktails as well as many liquors and single malt whiskeys. For a small appetite there are sandwiches, salads and flammkuchen. If you have more of an appetite, head over to the restaurant. Every Tuesday evening after 18:00 the after-work party takes place at Carlton. A good place be it for networking or partying.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 41, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 227 19 19, www.carlton.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 01:00, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. A­K­J WIDDER BAR After a complete overhaul, the Widder bar not only has a more contemporary look but also a new cocktail concept called Follow The Flavour. We chose to follow chilli and got an amazing mix of Callle 23 tequila, lime juice and chilli syrup, which was hot and salty and definitely spiced up our evening. Widder, however, is still a classy establishment and has one of the biggest spirits libraries in the city, specialising in single malt whiskeys. It features hundreds of different brands starting with Bushmills 1608 Triple distilled and ending at the other end of the scale with the rare Black Bowmore Final Edition 1964 (4cl for 1,200Sfr). A piano player will entertain you while you relax on the red leather benches.QF‑12, Widdergasse 6, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 224 24 12, www.widderhotel.ch. Open 11:30 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 02:00, in summer 18:00 - 01:00, Tue Sat 18:00 - 02:00. A­E­J August – September 2018 31


Nightlife ADULT ENTERTAINMENT If you’re male and looking for the so-called ‘sins of the flesh,’ then Zurich has a lot to offer. Prostitution is legal in Switzerland, so you can find everything from strip bars and erotic massages to sex clubs and escort services in Zurich. While hardly an alpine Amsterdam, Zurich is an inviting destination if you’re looking for carnal pleasures and sexy ladies in various states of undress. Prostitution is not only legal but is also regulated by the city. Sex clubs need permission to operate and this is only granted if a business follows all of the security, health, social security and tax regulations, doesn’t place any undue pressure on the sex workers, ensures their health and guarantees violence prevention. For all these reasons, sex clubs are probably the best and safest option if you’re looking for sex in Zurich. Street prostitution is also regulated, but is only permitted in a few areas (i.e. Häringstrasse in the Niederdorf district) and only at certain times. Here are some reputable strip bars. Check our website www.zurich.inyourpocket.com for erotic massage parlours and sex clubs. We believe the places we list to be upstanding businesses, but we still recommend employing simple common sense when delving into the world of adult entertainment. CALYPSO Located in Niederdorf, Calypso claims to have the only shower show in town. Apart from that there is the standard stage with two poles and a huge mirror in the back.QG‑11, Niederdorfstrasse 60, 8Central, tel. (+41) 44 252 33 70, www.calypso-nightclub.ch. Open 19:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun.

CASINO SWISS CASINOS ZÜRICH More than 350 slot machines and the table games roulette, black jack, punto banco and texas hold’em poker on two floors make this casino the largest in Switzerland. The stakes on the table games set in at 2 Sfr – with practically no upper limit. For your physical well-being there are two bars and a lounge. The casino also has a smoker’s section. To get access you need to be at least 18 years old, well dressed and have a valid ID card or passport with you. The entrance fee is 10 CHF after 19:00.QE‑12, Gessnerallee 3-5, 8Stauffacher / Sihlstrasse, tel. (+41) 43 330 30 30, www.swisscasinos.ch. Open 11:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 05:00, table games start at 14:00. 32 Zurich In Your Pocket

Weinschenke’s historic vaulted cellar.

Zurich Tourism

COCKTAIL BARS BOHEMIA Bohemia’s waiters are smartly dressed - and they’re not the only thing with style around here. The tiled floor and the crystal chandeliers give Bohemia a distinguished atmosphere, attracting both business people and the city’s in-crowd. On offer are cocktails, martinis, daiquiris, margaritas, spirits and beer as well as a good selection of wines sold by the glass or bottle. The drinks menu features something for everyone, which is at least one reason why Bohemia’s bar area is so popular. In the restaurant section they mainly serve steaks grilled to your liking on a woodfired grill as well as some fish and pasta dishes.QI‑15, Klosbachstrasse 2, 8Kreuzplatz, tel. (+41) 44 383 70 60, www.bohemia.ch. Open 06:45 - 24:00, Thu, Fri 06:45 01:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. A­K MONTBLACK Have you ever had a chilli in your cocktail? Neither had we until we dropped by Montblack, that is. ‘Freestyle cocktailing’ is what they claim to do here - and we couldn’t describe it any better ourselves. We boldly chose the Fiery Strauss on our first visit and when co-owner Brian started mixing the chilli, cucumber, strawberries, gin and elderflower syrup, we were sceptical, but the result made us true believers. A little sweet, a little hot, a little bitter - a little great, really! While the interior is rather earthy, the crowd is urban and relaxed. We’ll definitely be going again, and so should you.QC‑12, Elisabethenstrasse 28, 8Kalkbreite, tel. (+41) 76 577 12 76, www.montblack-bar.ch. Open Wed 18:00 - 01:00, Thu 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. A

WINE BARS NEW GAMPER BAR This wine bar is run by the owners of the successful Gamper restaurant. We like the sober atmosphere of the locale that’s set by the plywood bar, the simple metal rack in the corner and the reddish leather chairs with some original patina. The glass mosaic on the window frames and part of the ceiling also act as a welcome contrast. Ask the barkeeper for the wines that are currently served by the glass as he’ll be more than happy to recommend something that suits your zurich.inyourpocket.com


Nightlife taste. They also have a comprehensive list of mainly European wines sold by the bottle and offer some cold dishes like the delicious mozzarella with Speck (lardo) and fennel seeds we had or other snacks like olives, boquerones, salamettli and the like. The music is provided by an old vinyl player, which only adds to the stylish and  easy-going atmosphere here. QC‑10, Dienerstrasse 75, 8Bäckeranlage, tel. (+41) 43 243 78 78, www.gamper-bar.ch. Open 16:00 - 24:00, closed Mon, Sun. A WEINSCHENKE (HOTEL HIRSCHEN) This delicately lit historic vaulted cellar has a great atmosphere for a wine tavern. The Weinschenke is located in the building of the hotel Hirschen and is entered from the small street (Hirschengasse) on the right-hand side of the hotel. Sit at the wooden tables and enjoy a glass of one of the 12 bottled wines that are sold here by the glass. As appetizers we can recommend mostbröckli, local dried meat or a choice of Swiss cheese.QG‑12, Hirschengasse 6, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. (+41) 43 268 33 33, www.hirschen-zuerich.ch. Open 16:30 - 24:00. Closed Sun. A­J

CLUBS As nightlife goes outdoors in summer (see p. 12), many of the city’s clubs have a reduced programme in July and August, some even close for a few weeks. Check the websites of the clubs before you go. JADE Fashionable Jade now operates one of the club halls in the Kaufleuten building and draws a young, rich and beautiful party crowd. Have some cash or a credit card handy, as the style here is to order the spirits by the bottle. Girls really do dress up (‘tha less tha betta’) and men either show their muscles or their shirt collars - ideally both. The music is mainly RnB, hip hop, reggaeton and club hits.QF‑13, Pelikanplatz, 8Sihlstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 202 80 02, www.jade.ch. Open Tue, Fri 23:00 - 04:00, Sat 23:00 05:00. Admission Fri 25Sfr, Sat 30Sfr, Tue 15Sfr. Minimum age 21 on the weekends. A­J Shake it baby, shake it! At Mascotte, that is.

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DIE ZUKUNFT ‘The Future’ is a small club in a Langstrasse district basement, and is Zurich’s premier space for freaky electro, house and crossover party styles. The entrance is hidden in a passage between two buildings next to the Bar 3000 (which serves as a smoker’s lounge for the club). Getting past the doormen is sometimes difficult, though the policy is not obvious: you just have to fit to the crowd already inside. Once you are in, you will find revellers who don’t tire of partying until the break of dawn.QD‑11, Dienerstrasse 33, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. (+41) 43 535 60 13, www.zukunft.cl. Open Thu 23:00 - late, Fri, Sat 24:00 - late, Wed sometimes concerts. Bar 3000 open Tue - Thu 19:00 - 04:00, Fri 17:00 - 24:00, Sat 20:00 - 24:00. Admission around 20Sfr, Thu free. A­X facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

MASCOTTE In this club you can feel the history: built around 1900 as a variété it has been a music and culture club ever since. Sammy Davis Junior and Louis Armstrong played here in the time of swing and big bands. Nowadays bands like Arcade Fire, The XX and MGMT played their first ever Switzerland shows here. But it’s a very popular party place too. International DJs (Martin Solveig, Jazzy Jeff ) and local heroes spin their tunes for all kinds of people: twens mix with thirty-somethings dressed from chic to indie. On Fridays the DJ plays all styles, on Saturdays the music is either house, disco, hiphop, electronic or Latin. Check its website!QH‑14, Theaterstrasse 10, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) 44 260 15 80, www.mascotte.ch. Mon, Fri, Sat 23:00 - late, Thu 22:00 - late. Admission: Mon free, Thu & Fri around 15Sfr, Sat around 25Sfr. A­X­E­J August – September 2018 33


Zurich Nord The part of the city behind the two hills Käferberg and Zürichberg is commonly referred to as Zürich Nord. The districts 7, 11 and 12 used to be independent villages and merged with the city in 1934. Close to the airport they are now home to many international companies, the trade fair, some hotels and more and more restaurants and bars. You definitely don’t have to go to the city centre to have a good night out.

RESTAURANTS CHEYENNE The Cheyenne is the place for American food in Zurich Nord: big burgers, spare ribs and Mexican-style burritos are its specialities. Sit at large tables and watch all the important football and ice hockey games on the screens. The signed NHL T-shirt of the famous Swiss player and Stanley Cup winner Mark Streit on the wall is Cheyenne‘s pride.QG‑1, Querstrasse 3, 8Sternen Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 44 313 90 90, www.cheyenne-oerlikon.ch. Open 09:00 - 24:00, kitchen open until 22:00, Tue - Sat until 23:00. Brunch on Sat & Sun 09:00 - 16:00. €€. A­B

dishes. Order the succulent hot pot or share a choice of small dishes at the table. Either way, make sure to try one of the papaya salads or the sai krok isan, a fermented pork sausage served with ginger and white cabbage.QH‑1, Tramstrasse 19, 8Sternen Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 43 540 28 08, www.facebook.com/JaoprayaThaiRestaurant. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €€. A LE MUH (SWISSÔTEL) The setting here is modern and really enjoyable, somewhere between business and casual - but definitely a far cry from the cowshed atmosphere the name might imply. The cuisine matches the interior: a modern take on Swiss and international dishes. The menu changes weekly and most ingredients are sourced locally. Neither the prime burger nor the tartar gave us any reason whatsoever to complain. QG‑1, Schulstrasse 44, 8Bahnhof Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 44 317 33 91, www.lemuh.ch. Open 06:30 - 24:00. €€. A­B

JAO PRAYA We think that Jao Praya, which is just around the corner from busy Sternen Oerlikon, is one of the best and most authentic Thai restaurants in Zurich. For lunch it serves popular dishes buffet style, but at dinner time the place is frequented by many Thais who come for the a la carte

NIGHTLIFE

A touch of cow here and there, but something for vegetarians too PD at Le Muh.

COOPER’S PUB Located just next to Oerlikon train station the Cooper’s with its whiskey barrels and dark wooden floor and panels, brings an Irish pub feel to this part of town. They of course have Murphy’s Red and Guinness on tap, all the sports on TV and serve really affordable burgers. There are also fish & chips, pies and salads on the menu. Occasionally concerts. Cheers!QH‑1, Schaffhauserstrasse 359, 8Sternen Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 76 261 00 30, www.coopers-pub.ch. Open 15:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 02:00, closed Sun. A­K­

ROLLI’S STEAKHOUSE A very popular steak house. Beef, pork, lamb, they have it all. But don’t forget to book a place in advance. All steaks are served on a hot stone - making you the grill chef yourself. So there is no one else to blame if your steak is overdone. The steaks come with fries and homemade sauces. The menu features pasta as well - but come on, who needs pasta if there’s meat?QH‑1, Schaffhauserstrasse 352, 8Sternen Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 44 311 28 80, www.rollis -steakhouse.ch. Open 09:00 - 23:30. Closed Sun. €€. A­B­

GLEIS 9 Located in an old brick building, Track 9 is a bar and bistro close to the Oerlikon train station. We particularly like the separate bar room, but the Swiss lunch deals like bratwurst (veal sausage) with potato salad, pasta, grilled Italian sandwiches and curries are not bad either. The evening menu offers tartar and cordon bleu. And track 9 is one of the few places in town where you can still smoke indoors, in their smoker’s lounge. For a more sophisticated dining experience move over to their restaurant Perron 9.QG‑1, Affolternstr. 52, 8Bahnhof Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 43 288 94 44, www.gleis9.ch. Open 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A­X­K

ZIEGELHÜTTE At the forest’s edge in Schwamendingen lies the Ziegelhütte, a real country inn within the city limits. On the menu you’ll find - surprise surprise - good, rustic dishes like fleischchäs (swiss style meat loaf ), schnitzel and risotto. You can feel that they like what they do here. Take tram N°7 (direction Stettbach) to Schwamendingerplatz, from there it’s an easy 8-minute walk. Apart from the restaurant there is a huge beer garden with lots of atmosphere.QHüttenkopfstrasse 70, 8Schwamendingerplatz, tel. (+41) 44 322 40 03, www.wirtschaft-ziegelhuette.ch. Open 11:00 - 22:30, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:30, Sun 11:00 - 21:00, closed Mon, kitchen closes 21:30/22:30, Sun 20:00. Occasionally concerts in the hall. €€. A­B

34 Zurich In Your Pocket

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Sightseeing

A picture postcard view of Zurich’s old town with the churches Fraumünster, St. Peter’s and Grossmünster. | Zurich Tourism

Zurich’s largely intact medieval town on the one hand and its natural setting on the other are the city’s charms. It also has an excellent range of museums and galleries showing international art. Admission to many places is free, if it does cost we indicate the full price followed by reduced price, usually the children’s price, e.g. 10/5Sfr. Museums are usually closed on Mondays.

MAIN SIGHTS If you ask someone from Zurich which of the city’s sights represents Zurich best, they’ll probably point to the Grossmünster, its unmistakable double towers making it the closest Zurich has to a landmark. Wasserkirche and Fraumünster complete the trinity of famous churches. Lindenhof is where Zurich started off and is a lovely spot today, while the central police station is another unlikely lovely spot - unless maybe you’re escorted there. Its entrance hall is splendidly decorated with work by Augusto Giacometti. But two of Zurich’s major attractions are not man-made at all: the lake and the Uetliberg peak. FRAUMÜNSTER Today most people come to Fraumünster to see the magnificent stained glass windows in the choir created by French artist Marc Chagall in the early 1970s, or the windows by Augusto Giacometti. But in days gone by this Gothic abbey dating from the 9th century was more than just pretty. Fraumünster, which literally means women’s abbey, belonged to the Benedictine convent whose abbess had wide powers in Zurich. Women came on harder times facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

in the 16th century. The little archway on the outer corner of Fraumünster (Poststrasse/Münsterhof ) was used to limit decadence and elaborate clothing, and women’s wide hoop skirts had to fit through here, or else a fine was due. Since summer 2016 the crypt is open to visitors. Be considerate, no photos, no visiting during Sunday services.QG‑13, Stadthausquai 19, 8Helmhaus, www. fraumuenster.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 5Sfr, incl. audioguide (available in 8 languages) or brochure and admission to crypt museum. Children free. Groups must book time slots in advance. GROSSMÜNSTER The two towers of the originally Romanesque Grossmünster are Zurich’s landmark and they also offer a great view over Zurich, if you make it up the 187 narrow steps (5/2Sfr admission for the tower, open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:30 - 17:00). According to legend, Felix and Regula, Zurich’s patron saints, were beheaded at the site of the Wasserkirche and then walked up to where the Grossmünster stands, taking their heads with them. Centuries later the emperor Charlemagne was passing through Zurich and decided to found a church in honour of the martyrs - after a hint from his horse. Since the Reformation the church has a barren feel, alleviated only by the windows. German artist Sigmar Polke finished 12 simply beautiful windows in 2009, partly made of semi-precious stones. Crypt and cloister with a museum on the Reformation are also accessible. Audioguide in different languages available (5Sfr plus 5Sfr deposit).QG‑13, Grossmünsterplatz, 8Helmhaus, www.grossmuenster.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:00. August – September 2018 35


Sightseeing LAKE ZURICH

Zurich Tourism

The lake is certainly one of the city’s highlights and a walk along the shores is a must, whatever the season. Start for example at Bellevue and walk along the promenade towards Zürichhorn. After a few hundred metres a park fills the expanse between the lake and the street. The huge Blatterwiese, also known as Chinawiese because the Chinese garden is just next to it, is popular for relaxing, sunbathing or playing sports. There is also a playground for kids. Continuing, you get to Zürichhorn, a small delta with some lakeside restaurants and later still to the railway station Tiefenbrunnen where you can hop on a tram (or train) back to Bellevue. The western shore of the lake is a bit less popular though just as nice for a walk. Start at the Arboretum and walk along the shore passing Enge port, the cactuses of the Sukkulentensammlung, and the Mythenquai until you reach the Landiwiese, a large field where many cultural events take place. If you go just a little further, you can enjoy a beer in the restaurant of the offstream cultural centre Rote Fabrik (red factory), marked by the red brick factory chimney. LAKE ZURICH CRUISES The Lake Zurich Navigation Company operates ships on Lake Zurich and the River Limmat. If you just want ten minutes of captains’ uniforms and brass foghorns, the routes Bürkliplatz-Wollishofen and BürkliplatzZürichhorn are included in any public transport ticket covering zone 110. If that’s not enough for you, go the whole hog with a roundtrip. There are different cruises all year round. They all start from the port at Bürkliplatz close to Bellevue several times a day. The short cruise (90 minutes) for example starts in summer every 30 minutes between 09:10 and 19:40, the 4-hour one at least four times a day. Tickets and timetables are available at the port.QF‑14, Bürkliplatz, 8Bürkliplatz, tel. (+41) 44 487 13 33, www.zsg.ch. Tickets for roundtrips 8.80-34.40Sfr, children half the price, discount with Zurich public transport day cards. 36 Zurich In Your Pocket

GIACOMETTI MURALS In the entrance hall to the city’s police headquarters, Augusto Giacometti’s (1877 - 1947) magnificent murals adorn the vaulted ceiling and the walls. We think this impressive work is a must see for any Zurich visitor! The Giacomettis were a family of artists: Augusto’s cousin Giovanni (1868 - 1933) and Giovanni’s son Alberto (1901 - 1966) were successful artists too. And while Alberto and his haggard bronze figures are probably the best known Giacomettis (you can see some of those figures in the permanent exhibition at Zurich’s Kunsthaus), Augusto had the strongest connection to Zurich, as he studied and later lived here. And the murals in the entrance hall of Zurich’s police headquarters (1923 - 1925) is not the only work of his you can see in the city: he revitalised the art of stained-glass windows, creating the choir windows in the Grossmünster (1932), the window depicting paradise in the northern transept of the Fraumünster (1945) and windows in the Wasserkirche. The murals however, remain the work he is best known for. Note the short opening hours. Also see the box The Giacomettis on p. 38.QG‑12, Polizeiwache, Bahnhofquai 3, 8Bahnhofquai/HB. Open 09:00 - 11:00, 14:00 - 16:00, a​ dmission free, ID required.

Lindenhof, a square with a view.

Zurich Tourism

LINDENHOF This idyllic square on a little hill in Zurich’s old town used to be an important place. The Romans set up shop here and later mediaeval royals would stay here when travelling in the region. Check out the replica Roman tomb stone in the right-hand wall of Pfalzgasse leading down and out of the square. The view from here over the Limmat is very pretty and on sunny days you can join in a game of chess at the back of the square.QG‑12, 8Rathaus. UETLIBERG The Uetliberg is Zurich’s own little mountain, marking the end of the Albis mountain chain on the western side of Lake Zurich. It rises up to 869 metres a.s.l. - towering around 450 metres over the city. There is a lookout tower on top (admission 2Sfr) bringing you to exactly 900 metres a.s.l. and offering a stunning view over the city, the lake and on to the Alps. The mountain is a popular local recreation area all year round. There is a train (S10 from track 21 or 22) from the main station twice an hour (more on weekends). Be zurich.inyourpocket.com


Sightseeing aware that you need an additional ticket even if you have a day pass for Zurich (with a day pass, buy a 1 - 2 additional zones’ day ticket at the ticket machine). From the terminal station it’s an easy 10-minute walk to the peak with the lookout tower and a restaurant. You can also walk up from the city to the peak. Take tram N°13 in direction Albisgüetli and get off at the last stop. From there two different paths lead to the top, both take about an hour. You do not need hiking equipment, but we recommend good shoes and staying on the path.

CHURCHES See main sights at the beginning of this chapter for the churches Fraumünster and Grossmünster. ST. PETER St. Peter church is the one with the huge clock-faces on all four sides of the tower you can spot from far away. The diameter of the clock-faces is almost 9 metres - they are said to be the biggest in Europe. The first mayor of Zurich, Rudolf Brun, was buried here in 1360 - a copy of his tomb stone can be seen on the northern side of the church. The nave of the church was finished in 1706, while the choir and the tower date from a Romanesque church built in 1230. This was the first church in Zurich that was built as a Protestant place of worship after the Reformation.QF‑13, St.-Peter-Hofstatt, 8Paradeplatz, www.st-peter-zh.ch. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.

Admire St. Peter’s iconic clock in the old town.

Zurich Tourism

WASSERKIRCHE The Wasserkirche, water church, is on the banks of the Limmat - but still, why the name? Actually, it was on an island in the river until the Limmatquai was built in 1839. Dating at least from the 10th century, what you see today is late Gothic style from the 15th century. See also the stained glass windows by Augusto Giacometti in the choir and the crypt with tombs almost as old as the church. A statue of forbidding Huldrich Zwingli stands at one end. Under the stone arches outside, the Kunstkiosk (art kiosque) sells books and prints and street musicians set up shop. If you get lucky you’ll hear the accordionist who gives masterful Bach recitals. Helmhaus gallery in the same building.QG‑13, Limmatquai 31, 8Helmhaus, www.wasserkirche.ch. Open 12:00 15:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 17:00, closed Mon, Tue.

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August – September 2018 37


Sightseeing to get there from the centre is by S-train to Oerlikon (five minutes).QElias-Canetti-Strasse, 8Bahnhof Oerlikon. Upper stories closed Fri & Sat 22:00 - 06:00.

THE GIACOMETTIS

Zurich Tourism

The striking, elongated, haggard bronze figures are what Alberto Giacometti (1901 - 1966) is best known for, and Zurich is a great place to see them, as the Kunsthaus houses one of the best collections of his work worldwide. Giacometti’s portrait and work adorn today’s 100Sfr banknotes. But Zurich actually has more - more Giacomettis that is. Alberto’s father, Giovanni Giacometti (1868 - 1933), and his cousin, Augusto Giacometti (1877 - 1947), were successful artists in their own right. All of them came from mountainous and very poor Val Bregaglia on the south-eastern edge of Switzerland. Some of Giovanni’s (post-)impressionist paintings, mainly of his beautiful mountain home, are on display at the Kunsthaus. Augusto had the strongest connection to Zurich, as he studied and later lived here. Some of his best work is also here. He revitalised the art of stained-glass windows, creating the choir windows in the Grossmünster (1932), the window depicting paradise in the northern transept of the Fraumünster (1945) and windows in the Wasserkirche. The piece of work he made his name with, however, are the murals in the vaulted entrance hall of Zurich’s police headquarters (1923 - 25), see p. 36.

VILLA & PARK PATUMBAH Smoking does have its advantages. This opulent villa was financed by smokers - it was built by Carl Fürchtegott Grob who made his huge fortune with tobacco plantations in South-East Asia. For his home in Zurich he hired architects Chiodera and Tschudy in the 1880s and provided them with an almost infinite budget. The result was a magnificent villa with an explosion of styles - Baroque, Gothic and Italian Renaissance blend organically with ornamental elements from East Asia. After long years of neglect, the villa has been painstakingly restored and is now home of the Swiss Heritage Society (www.heimatschutzzentrum.ch) and partly open to the public, as is the English landscape garden surrounding it. Pick up one of the wooden chairs, find a sunny spot and enjoy a moment of bliss - you could even have a smoke.QZolllikerstrasse 128, 8Fröhlichstrasse. Park open 06:00 - 22:00, villa (incl. architectural history exhibition) open 14:00 - 17:00, Thu & Sun 12:00 - 17:00, Mon & Tue closed. Public tour incl. a visit to the second level of the villa every Thu 12:30. Admission to the villa 10/5Sfr, park free.

MUSEUMS & ART Zurich is a real city of museums - there are 43 of them with all kind of exhibitions. We list the most popular ones and the ones we like best. You can find more information in English on all the museums on www.museen-zuerich.ch.

GARDENS & PARKS MFO-PARK This is one of the most amazing parks we’ve seen. It’s basically a modern take on an ancient concept: a multistory metal rectangle covered in plants which you can explore on a number of levels. The main hall also boasts four huge chalice-like fountains that also happen to be enveloped with florae. There are several stairways to choose from, so you can actually climb to the upper floors of the structure and walk on different paths that often lead to unexpected views. Naturally, the leaves change colour with the seasons, so you can visit throughout the year and always see something new. At the very top, many metres above ground, you’ll find a sun deck where you can rest and take in the view of Zurich’s northern end. This unique complex has the same proportions as the adjoining former industrial hall and has been successfully integrated into this district in Zurich Nord. A real gem! The fastest way 38 Zurich In Your Pocket

A place to worship football: the FIFA World Football Museum.

PD

FIFA WORLD FOOTBALL MUSEUM Zurich is the hometown of the International Federation of Association Football or FIFA. Its very own museum tells the history of football, FIFA and the World Cup over more than 3,000m2. You’re initially met with the jerseys of all 211 FIFA member associations, which are on display in a kind of colour-coded rainbow, as well as a timeline that takes you through the history of FIFA. The second floor is dedicated to the World Cup complete with dozens of historic artefacts including the tracksuit that football’s first real star Pelé wore zurich.inyourpocket.com


Sightseeing in 1958. And yes, the original FIFA World Cup trophy is also on display! The third and last floor is dedicated to the impact football has had and continues to have on society. There’s also a gaming zone with giant pinball machines where you and your kids can test your skills with actual footballs. The museum is great for football fans and families and a bistro, a café-bar, a shop and the Sportsbar 1904 can also be found at the museum.QE‑15, Seestrasse 27, 8Bahnhof Enge, tel. (+41) 43 388 25 00, www.fifamuseum.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00, Closed Mon. Admission 24/14Sfr, students 18Sfr, kids younger than seven free, families 64Sfr. KUNSTHAUS Zurich’s major art museum has an impressive collection with work by many Swiss artists such as Füssli, Hodler, Segantini or Bill and the largest collection of Alberto Giacometti’s work including some of his trademark haggard statues. Work by international artists like Manet, Van Gogh, Kokoschka or Baselitz also please the eye and mind. Additionally there are usually two very worthwhile temporary exhibitions, one large, one small (see section Culture & Events). English language audioguides available. Café and shop on the ground floor.QH‑13, Heimplatz 1, 8Kunsthaus, tel. (+41) 44 253 84 84, www.kunsthaus.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission for collection 16/11Sfr, for exhibitions 23/18Sfr, combined ticket 26/19Sfr. Free admission to the collection every Wednesday.

MORE FOR LESS WITH THE ZÜRICH CARD You’re in town for only two days? Too short, but the Zürich Card can help you make the most of it. For a busy day or two in Zurich, you can’t really go wrong with the Zürich Card. It gives you free entry to a number of great museums like the National Museum and dozens more. It also gets you a 10% discount in lots of shops, e.g. Meng Cutlery or Vollenweider Chocolatier. You get free entry to several of Zurich’s best clubs and to the casino and many restaurants will give you dessert on the house with the card or some other extra, if you have a main course first. The Zürich Card also gives you unlimited use of trams, buses and trains within the city and includes the train trip from and to the airport, and the trip up to Zurich’s little mountain Uetliberg. Now that’s a deal!QThe Zürich Card costs 27/19Sfr for 24hr and 53/37Sfr for 72hr. Buy it at SBB counters, at the airport, train stations, at the tourist information at the main station or at all VBZ public transport sales points and from all ticket machines in town (stamp it before you set off!). Check www.zuerich.com/zuerichcard for the full range of discounts. The Zürich Card is issued by Zürich Tourism who cooperate with Zurich In Your Pocket.

30 years S MI: equity indic es e x plained! New special exhibition at the Finance Museum starting 1 June 2018

www.finanzmuseum.ch

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August – September 2018 39


Sightseeing MARKETS FLEA MARKET KANZLEI This is probably Switzerland’s biggest year-round flea market. Up to 400 people put their second-hand goods on sale here every Saturday, professional traders as well as people who are just flogging things they don’t need anymore.QC‑11, Kanzleistrasse 56, 8Helvetiaplatz, www.flohmarktkanzlei.ch. Open Sat 07:20 - 16:00. ROSENHOFMARKT Incense sticks, trinkets and hippie-style clothes are on offer on Thursdays and Saturdays at the Rosenhof, a hidden square in the Niederdorf part of the old town. Artists also sell their handcrafted jewellery and pottery. There is also food from around the world.QG‑12, Rosenhof, 8Rathaus, www.gld.ch. Thu 10:00 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. NATIONAL MUSEUM (LANDESMUSEUM) It will take you a while to get through the permanent exhibition on Swiss history, but hey, it took centuries to accumulate. Complete with sights, sounds, slides and secret bank accounts, this is not some bonedry collection of old things. There are four thematic areas: the first section shows the history of migration and settlement, the second examines religious and intellectual history, the third is dedicated to Swiss political history and the fourth section focusses on economy. For most exhibits explanations in English are available. There are temporary exhibitions on changing topics (see Culture & Events section of this guide). In August 2016 the striking concrete extension that has been built over the last few years opened to the public. The museum has now finally much more space for exhibitions, a study centre and a large restaurant. E-guide in the ‘National Museum’ app for your smartphone available in English and other languages - or hire a special device at the entrance.QF‑10, Museumstrasse 2, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 58 466 65 11, www.landesmuseum.ch. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/8Sfr. NONAM (NORTH AMERICA NATIVE MUSEUM) The permanent exhibition of the North America Native Museum shows over 700 objects like masks, boats or totem poles from six regions in the USA and Canada. The exhibitions’ aim is to render a better understanding of the natives of North America and show the various ways the Inuit, Indian and Métis groups lived from the arctic north to the deserts in the southwest.QSeefeldstrasse 317, 8Tiefenbrunnen, tel. (+41) 43 499 24 40, www.nonam.ch. Open 13:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Closed July 23 - August 13, 2018. Admission 12/8/6Sfr, families 25Sfr. 40 Zurich In Your Pocket

SCHWEIZER FINANZMUSEUM (FINANCE MUSEUM) With all its banks Zurich is known as the city for finance and money and it finally has a museum dedicated to the subject. What are stocks, how were they traded and how does it work today? And how did Switzerland become an important marketplace for finance? These questions and more are answered by audio installations (Alfred Escher, founder of the bank Credit Suisse, will explain everything to you!) as well as interactive video installations. Want to go public with your company? No problem, a friendly gentlemen on a video screen will explain the process to you. There’s also a short trainee programme available for stockbrokers. The museum gives you an insight into the world of finance and is situated in the headquarters of SIX, the company that operates the Swiss stock exchange. In its currrent special exhibition 30 Years SMI: Equity Indices Explained!, the museum takes a closer look at equity indices. You can also download its free app to your smartphone, which will guide you through the museum. QPfingstweidstrasse 110, 8Sportweg, tel. (+41) 58 399 32 88, www.finanzmuseum.ch. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 10/8Sfr, children up to 12 years free.

Bull or bear market? Equity indices explained at the Finanzmuseum.

PD

SIGHTSEEING TOURS BEST OF ZURICH - ZÜRICH CITY TOUR Enjoy a city tour in an air-conditioned coach including a short stroll through the old town and a ride with the Dolderbahn rack-and-pinion railway up into the residential area of Zürichberg. In a little more than two hours you get to see Bahnhofstrasse and the financial district, the old guild houses and the universities. There’s live commentary in English and German as well as audio guides in Spanish, Russian, Chinese and Japanese. In addition to the city tour, the company also offers tours to Titlis, Pilatus, Rigi, the Rhine Falls and Jungfraujoch, just to name a few. Excursions for small groups and adventure packages are also available. Visit www.switzerland-tours.ch for more information. QF‑10, Bus Terminal Sihlquai, 8Sihlquai/HB, tel. (+41) 44 710 50 50, www.switzerland-tours.ch. Starts daily 10:00, 13:00 and 15:30 at the Sihlquai bus terminal next to the main train station.Tickets available on the spot, but reservation by phone/website is recommended. Tickets 34/17Sfr, 10 - 20% discount with the Zürich Card. zurich.inyourpocket.com


Sightseeing STORIES OF THE OLD TOWN - GUIDED WALK A professional guide will take you on this two-hour walk through the old town of Zurich. What links famous literati, scientists or visionaries such as Albert Einstein, Lenin and the Dadaists with Zurich? Discover the city’s history and listen to anecdotes from its past in English and German. Good choice if you really want to see the old town, where the bus tours can’t go. For other walks such as the ones on design and gourmet food ask at the Tourist Information at the main station. Reservation by phone recommended.QG‑11, Tourist Information Main Train Station, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 44 215 40 00, www.zuerich.com. Starts at the Tourist Information at the main train station. Daily 15:00, Sat & Sun 11:00 (German) & 15:00 (English). 25/12.50Sfr, 50% discount with Zürich Card. THE GHOST WALK OF ZURICH This tour is not for the faint-hearted: Dan Dent will tell and show you all about Zurich’s Ghosts on a walk through the old town - in English only. Listen to this great entertainer and get to know the Schipfe Poltergeist or the ghost of Zurich’s first mayor, Rudolf Brun.QF‑13, Paradeplatz, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 941 45 65, www.ghostwalk.ch. February - May and mid-August - mid-November every Fri at 20:00 at Paradeplatz. Meeting point is next to the fountain. No need to book, just show up. Wheelchair accessible. 15Sfr, not suitable for children under 14 years.

Early morning calm at the river in old town.

Zurich Tourism

THE ZURICH EXPERIENCE CITY TOUR This two-hour tour in a modern panormama coach gives you an overview of the city showing you the financial district, Bahnhofstrasse and a part of the old town including the Grossmünster, Fraumünster and St. Peter’s churches as well as the posh residential areas on Zürichberg. Commentary including some insights into the history of the city is provided via headsets in eleven languages (English, French, German, Italian, Spanish Japanese, Portuguese, Russian, Chinese, Hindi, Arabic). They also offer many other tours, including trips to Mount Pilatus, Jungfraujoch and more, see website.QF‑10, Bus Terminal Sihlquai, 8Sihlquai/ HB, tel. (+41) 44 383 78 78, www.meiertours.ch. Daily 09:45, 12:00 & 14:00. Tickets 34/17Sfr, available on the spot, reservation by phone recommended.

CITY TOURS

EXCURSIONS Bookings +41 (0)44 710 50 50 facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

www.switzerland-tours.ch August – September 2018 41


Old-town stroll at the top of Marktgasse and now you’re on the main throughway of pedestrian Niederdorf, the other part of the old town. On the right is 5 Cabaret Voltaire, from where the Dada movement - jolifanto bambla o falli bambla - set off to confuse the bourgeoisie in 1916. A little further on to the left, set back in a little courtyard, is Schober, a richly decorated sweets and pastry shop worth at least a quick visit. Directly opposite are Schwarzenbach coffee roasters - the irresistible smell gets even better if you stick your nose inside. Strolling further along Münstergasse you pass the Bodega Española on your right, where in the 1950s author Max Frisch used to drop in for a beer and a few tapas.

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On the other end of the bridge you have the Rathaus, the town hall, to your right and the Rathaus café to your left. Our rigorous ramble takes us straight ahead, across the tram lines on Limmatquai and into Marktgasse, where you’ll find one of Zurich’s prettiest flower shops. Turn right

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Ahead of you is the church tower of 3 St. Peter (see p. 37), our next destination situated on one of Zurich’s most peaceful squares (St. Peterhofstatt). Going left, either of the alleys (Weggengasse or Thermengasse) gets you to the second bridge, 4 Rathausbrücke, also known as the vegetable bridge because of the small fruit & veg market held here on Saturdays.

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Just after Schipfe 16 take the climb up to 2 Lindenhof (see p. 36), just turn right and up Fortunagasse and then left into Lindenhof with its tall trees, one of the oldest parts of Zurich. The mediaeval German kings would stop over here and the Romans also occupied the spot in their day and age. Take in the view over the parapet or play with the royals who are always here, in one of the games of outdoor chess. Leaving Lindenhof opposite from where you entered (down Pfalz-Gasse), there’s a copy of the Roman tombstone which mentions Turicum (Zurich) on your right, set in the wall.

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Zurich’s old town snuggles up to both banks of the river ­Limmat, so our old-town stroll does much the same and heads upstream, crossing two bridges and passing a third. We set off at the bridge named after Zurich’s first mayor, 1 Rudolf-Brun Brücke, which is easily reached from Bahnhofstrasse or by walking along the Limmat (down Bahnhofquai) from the main train station. At the bridge’s south-western corner, just by the Swiss handicrafts shop, head down the steps to the metal walkway leading upstream along the Limmat, almost touching the water (Heiri-Steg). Soon you’re on a cobbled street (Schipfe), with some miniature antiques shops and boutiques on the right and the restaurant Schipfe 16, a work project for unemployed and well worth a quick stop, on the left.

Bahn hofst

The iconic Napfbrunnen fountain in Niederdorf. oscity/shutterstock.com

A few steps along you’re at Zurich’s landmark Romanesque - style abbey, the somewhat austere 6 Grossmünster with its double towers and their rather unique, Neo-Gothic spires added in the 18th century. Looking towards the river, the third bridge, Münsterbrücke, appears and the graceful Fraumünster Abbey is visible across the Limmat. Take the steps from the Grossmünster courtyard down to the 7 Wasserkirche and the Helmhaus art gallery by the river and then cross the bridge to 8 Fraumünster (see p. 35) to gaze at the famous stained-glass windows by Chagall. You’ve seen all the really important parts of Zurich’s old town now and can finish off with one of Zurich’s other major attractions - the lake - which is just five minutes’ walk further along the river.

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Shopping

Upmarket Bahnhofstrasse is Zurich’s most famous shopping area, but it’s not the only one. | Zurich Tourism

Zurich has a reputation as a shopping city, even if it’s not quite London or Milan. Bahnhofstrasse is especially renowned as one of the most exclusive and expensive shopping streets in the world. For Swiss and urban design, Europaallee and the area around Langstrasse are good places to start. As far as shopping malls are concerned, Switzerland can’t match other European nations where huge centres are the order of the day, but perhaps that’s a good thing. The Sihlcity shopping centre, an easily accessible mall that opened in 2007, is an example of innovative development, without the massive sprawl of other malls. The Glatt shopping mall just outside city limits is Switzerland’s most popular shopping centre. The malls and best shopping areas of the city are listed here together with other notable shops. Remember that all shops are closed on Sundays except those at the railway stations and some souvenir shops. For more suggestions visit www.zurich.inyourpocket.com The main shopping areas are: Bahnhofstrasse (F-11/14) Bahnhofstrasse leads from the main railway station to the lake and is mostly a pedestrian area with nearly no traffic, but watch out for the trams! It’s world-famous for its luxury stores: find jewellery, watches and designer boutiques as well as the big department stores Jelmoli, Globus and Manor here. In recent years, more big foreign companies like Apple have opened stores on Bahnhofstrasse displacing some traditional Zurich businesses and some say Bahnhofstrasse is losing its atmosphere. Naturally not everyone is happy about this. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

Nevertheless, a walk down this famous street is a must for every shopping fan. Wander down the side streets as well, where shops are no less luxurious and some more unusual little gems are hidden. Niederdorf (G-11/13) Even if Niederdorf - the part of the old town east of the River Limmat - is better known for dining and nightlife than shopping, it’s well worth expanding your shopping tour into this quarter. Along the Limmatquai and Niederdorfstrasse streets - both pedestrian areas - you’ll find smaller shops with up-to-date street wear, fancy shoes and fashion stores. The smaller alleys are also well worth a peek. Old Town (F/G-12/13) The old town between Bahnhofstrasse and the River Limmat is another shopping area not to be missed. Try the pedestrian street Rennweg with its international clothing brands and boutiques or Storchengasse with its luxury designer stores.

OPENING HOURS Many shops on and around Bahnhofstrasse are open Mon to Fri 09:00 - 19:00 / 20:00. Smaller shops including jewellers often close at 18:30, some are closed on Monday mornings. On Saturdays most shops open from 09:00 - 17:00 (or 18:00, department stores until 20:00). On Sundays all shops have to be closed by law (except in train and petrol stations). August – September 2018 43


Shopping THE GALLERY This is a shopping paradise for women - 20 fashion brands of renown such as Guess, Marc O’Polo, Coccinelle, G-Lab, Zoe Karssen or Trussardi are on offer. The store has sections for casual trendy, modern contemporary, affordable luxury, jeans fashion and accessories rather than being organised by brands. And while fashion is at the core of this store there are some lifestyle products like candles or pillows as well. They have monthly offers for beauty products and even food or beverages, to make your shopping experience that bit more exciting.QF‑12, Löwenstrasse 40, 8Löwenplatz, tel. (+41) 43 343 95 71, www.thegalleryconcept.ch. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

BOOKS, CRAFTS & MUSIC

CHOCOLATE & SWEETS LÄDERACH CHOCOLATIER SUISSE The traditional Swiss chocolatier Läderach sells freshly produced chocolate, filled chocolates and pralines. You even get an insight into the craft of confectionery here, as some of the chocolate is actually produced on site - creating irresistible aromas!QF‑11, Bahnhofstrasse 106, 8Bahnhofstrasse/HB, tel. (+41) 44 211 53 72, www.laederach.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 18:00. Closed Sun. TEUSCHER CONFISERIE More than a hundred different flavours of Swiss chocolate, marzipan, biscuits and the famous champagne truffles made according to Adolf Teuscher’s traditional recipe. QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 46, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 211 13 90, www.teuscher.com. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Thu, Fri 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 13:00 - 16:00.

ORELL FÜSSLI - THE BOOKSHOP Zurich’s biggest English-language bookshop stocks thousands of fiction and non-fiction books, magazines, audio books and DVDs - and all in English. It’s located on the third floor of the Orell Füssli bookshop just off Bahnhofstrasse.QF‑12, Füsslistrasse 4 (3rd floor), 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 211 04 44, www.orellfussli.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Closed Sun. PILE OF BOOKS Lovely, small English bookshop. Riffle through the pile and discover stuff you didn‘t even know existed.QB‑13, Zentralstrasse 16, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 43 333 29 45, www.pileofbooks.ch. Open 12:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 16:00, closed Mon, Tue, Sun. REC REC The Recommended Records store has all the music you have been looking for – and it’s been going for 30 years now. There is everything from jazz to ambient, electronica, ethno and world music, search service and delivery around the globe - a true jewel, this store.QD‑11, Rotwandstrasse 64, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. (+41) 44 291 46 60, www.recrec-shop.ch. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

Sweet little sins: chocolates at Läderach.

PD

DEPARTMENT STORES GLOBUS The Globus is a classic and stylish department store on Bahnhofstrasse: on six levels you can find everything for your beauty, the latest fashion from brands like Esprit, Marco Polo, Strellson and Dockers, shoes, watches, jewellery, travel bags, lingerie and much more. After strolling through the stories take a break in the pleasant restaurant on the top floor or have a drink in the bar just next to the entrance

Orell Füssli The Bookshop 3rd Floor, Füsslistrasse 4, 8001 Zürich +41 (0)44 211 04 44 English-orders@orellfuessli.ch

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Shopping FASHION FIDELIO WOMEN If you’re looking for casual, but still stylish fashion for women, try Fidelio. They sell renowned labels like Acne, Iro, Myths, Thom Krom and their own label fidelio.QF‑12, Münzplatz 1, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 211 13 11, www.fideliokleider .ch. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Closed Sun.

The fashion department of the Globus department store. 

R. Steck, Wädenswil

Schweizergasse towards Bahnhofstrasse.QF‑11, 11, 8Bahnhofstrasse/HB, tel. (+41) 58 578 11 11, www.globus.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. JELMOLI They call themselves the house of brands - and that’s what they are indeed: Hugo Boss, DKNY, Joop, Diesel, Tommy Hilfiger, Versace are just some of the fashion brands you can find here. But there’s more than fashion: perfumes, household goods, a huge sports and an electronics department. And not to forget the Jelmoli Food Market grocery store in the basement.QF‑12, Seidengasse 1, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 220 44 11, www.jelmoli.ch. Open 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

GANT Located on Rennweg, this is the new flagship store for GANT in Zurich. Founded in 1949 in the US GANT stands for casual, yet chic fashion for both sexes. With shirts, colourful pants, casual business suits, blouses, blazers or shoes, this shop features all of the latest GANT collections spread out over more than 300m2. Other GANT shops can be found on Europaallee (Lagerstrasse 10) and at the Sihlcity  shopping centre (Kalandeplatz 1).QF‑12, Rennweg 30, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 41 545 90 09, www.global.gant.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, closed Sun. PINKO PINKO is an Italian fashion brand founded in the early 1980s. With its daring, even cheeky feminine collections it attracts strong personalities regardless of age. Its all new Zurich store  is located on Strehlgasse  9, right around Storchengasse  (a shopping paradise for demanding fashionistas).QG‑13, Strehlgasse 9, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 577 57 98, www .pinko.com.Open 09:30 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, closed Sun.

GANT STORE RENNWEG ZÜRICH GANT.COM

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August – September 2018 45


Shopping AIRSIDE CENTER AT ZURICH AIRPORT Zurich airport’s passenger area is a shopping centre too! And quite a large one, in fact: more than 60 shops are located in the Airside Center which is accessible only to passengers. Here you can find literally anything you might be looking for. Be it Swiss watches, fashion or souvenirs, it’s all there, Swiss as well as international brands of course. In the Zürich Duty Free Stores you can buy a varied range of perfumes and cosmetics, tobacco products, spirits, wines and chocolate creations from Lindt, Cailler or Toblerone. The many restaurants and bars serving Swiss and international specialties make the Airside Center complete. So if you arrive at the airport early - don’t worry. You can use the time to hunt around for that last gift or souvenir - or have a fine meal before you take off!QZurich Airport, www.flughafenzuerich.ch/shopping. Open 06:00 - 22:00. Accessible only to passengers. PKZ WOMEN The moving visuals by Julian Opie on the 50 sqm LED screen in the store window make sure you can’t miss the PKZ Women flagship store. On four storeys and sorted by affinities, women can find almost anything they might be looking for: brands like Polo Ralph Lauren, Paul & Joe, See by Chloé, Armani, Diesel and many more, as well as shop in shops by Tommy Hilfiger and Dorothee Schumacher. A heaven for fashionistas on Bahnhofstrasse.QF‑11, Bahnhofstrasse 88, 8Bahnhofstrasse / HB, tel. (+41) 44 225 11 11, www.pkz.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. ZÄMÄ Zämä is Swiss and it means ‘together’. In this case it’s Yvette, Rainer and Sebastian who opened this cool shop together selling women’s and men’s fashion and accessories in the fancy new Europaallee district. It specialises in small labels that produce fair fashion, so they can, together with their customers, change the world a little for the better. The labels on offer often change and single pieces are available too, so we suggest you go and

take a peek.QE‑11, Lagerstrasse 34, 8Sihlpost/HB, tel. (+41) 44 202 04 34, www.zaemae.ch. Open 11:00 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

SHOPPING MALLS GLATT - YOUR FIRST SHOPPING DESTINATION This is Switzerland’s most popular shopping mall. There are typical Swiss shops as well as international brands, watches and jewellery shops and department stores – around 100 shops spread out across 43,000m², all under one roof. It’s located just outside city limits, but it’s easy to get there. Take the S3, S9 or S12 train to Stettbach and from there take tram 12 to the Glatt stop and you’ll be in this shopping paradise in just 20 minutes.QNeue Winterthurerstrasse 99, Wallisellen, 8Glatt, tel. (+41) 44 839 42 42, www.glatt.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Fair fashion on display at Zämä.

PD

SIHLCITY A true shopper‘s paradise, opened in 2007 on the grounds of an industrial-age paper mill. Modern architecture carefully blends with the factory buildings which house more than 80 shops from fashion to electronics, restaurants, a hotel, a spa and a multiplex cinema. Easily accessible from the city centre by tram N°13 & 17 in direction Albisgütli or N°5 in direction Laubegg - or take the S4 train, exit at Saalsporthalle.QC‑16, Kalanderplatz 1, 8Sihlcity Nord, tel. (+41) 44 204 99 99, www.sihlcity.ch. Open 09:00 20:00. Closed Sun, Coop grocery store open until 21:00.

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46 Zurich In Your Pocket

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Shopping OUTDOOR CLOTHING & SPORTS OCH SPORT At Och Sport you’ll find just about everything for any kind of sports on three storeys: tennis, badminton, trekking, running, skiing, swimming and much more - they have it all. On top of this huge choice, there is also fashion and outerwear - but sports definitely comes first here. Sister shop at Limmatquai 78.QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 56, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 215 21 21, www.ochsport.ch. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Thu 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. BURTON STORE ZÜRICH This is Zurich’s flagship store for the American snowboard and clothing manufacturer Burton. Founded in 1977 by snowboarding pioneer Jake Burton Carpenter, it has become one of the biggest and best known brands for winter sporting goods. In addition to snowboard apparel, accessories and protective gear, Burton also offers outerwear, jackets and sweaters, bags and luggage, camping equipment such as tents and sleeping bags and much more, so you don’t have to be a hardcore mountain junky to find something here. QG‑12, Marktgasse 3/5, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 578 09 46, www.burton.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, closed Sun.

T h e m o s t lu x u r io u s f ra g ra n c e s and skincare in the wor ld S I N C E 1921

BAHNHOFSTRASSE 17 | 8001 ZÜRICH | TEL.044 211 2030 | OSSWALD.CH

Time to take up sport again

Bahnhofstrasse 56 and Limmatquai 78 in Zurich. www.ochsport.ch

Not just for mountain junkies: Burton Store.

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LULULEMON Canadian brand lululemon does colourful, casual sports apparel especially for yoga and running for both men and women. That said, you’ll also find something suitable here if you’re into fitness training, water sports, cycling and the like all presented by staff with characteristically North American smiles. You can even sign up for free yoga lessons every Saturday at www.facebook.com/lululemonzurich. QG‑13, Marktgasse 12, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 43 243 78 81, www.lululemon.ch. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 19:00. Closed Sun. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

Marktgasse 3-5 8001 Zürich Switzerland

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BurtonStoreZuerich burtonstorezuerich www.burton.com

August – September 2018 47


Shopping

Toy Store

Welcome to the most famous paradise of toys for children, since 1881. Bahnhofplatz 9 8001 Zürich 044 225 78 78 www.fcw.ch

PERFUMES & BEAUTY OSSWALD Osswald is the specialist for perfumes and beauty products for facial care and spa treatments on Bahnhofstrasse. This  family-run business was founded in 1921 and still offers  excellent consulting services and beauty aids. Facial care products include Swiss brands like La Prairie, Cell Cosmet and Valmont, among many others, and the fragrances available are nearly endless including many niche brands from around the globe like Profumum Roma, Roja and Thameen. In their facial spa, they also offer medical and cosmetic facial treatments, but you’ll also find make-up, hair products, home fragrances and even accessories  for your bathroom here.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 17, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 211 20 30, www.osswald.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, closed Sun.

TOY STORES FRANZ CARL WEBER This is the toy shop to visit in the city centre conveniently located right next to the main station. There’s virtually anything you might desire on four huge floors from first toys for newborns to tech toys for grown-ups, not to mention books and toys from Switzerland. Your kids will absolutely love the slide that connects the first level with the ground floor.QF‑12, Bahnhofplatz 9, 8Bahnhofplatz/HB, tel. (+41) 44 225 78 78, www.fcw.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. STEFI TALMAN Swiss designer Stefi Talman built her reputation in the 1980ies with a half boot called Zip featuring a zipper crossing the instep at an angle. Her collections of shoes and bags for women are still remarkable and are on offer in her own boutique in the upper part of the old town. QG‑13, Oberdorfstrasse 13, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) 44 252 81 10, www.stefitalman.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Mon 12:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. From July 14 - August 19 closed on Mondays.

Read more reviews online: zurich.inyourpocket.com TA-BOU At Ta-Bou they sell bikinis the whole year round. And not just any bikinis, but their very own collection! This family business has been successfully designing and producing bikinis and swimsuits for exactly 40 years! And you can buy each top or bottom piece individually, so you can combine them according to your taste - or size. In their shop it feels like summer anytime of the year.QF‑12, Uraniastrasse 31, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 221 08 11, www.ta-bou.com. Open 09:30 - 19:30, closed Sun.

BEACHWEAR, SHOES & BAGS BENCI BROTHERS The former co-owner and designer of Navyboot Flaviano Bencivenga is back with a new shoe label - the Benci Brothers. The Benci Brother’s pride are welted shoes for men, designed by them and manufactured by hand in Italy in up to 150 production steps. They have all kinds of other high quality shoes, bags and accessories for men and women too.QF‑12, Sihlstrasse 37, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 43 497 25 60, www.bencibrothers.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. 48 Zurich In Your Pocket

Stefi Talman: not just shoes, but wallets and bags, too.

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zurich.inyourpocket.com


Shopping

beachwear for every body. www.ta-bou.com

Uraniastrasse 31 next to Jelmoli-Parking facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

August – September 2018 49


Shopping SWISS DESIGN BOUTIQUE CARAN D’ACHE Caran d’ Ache is the renowned Swiss producer of writing instruments. In their Zurich boutique you will find their entire collection - everything from pens, pencils, markers and fountain pens to paints and paint brushes. Their boxes of colour pencils are a classic present for children, but you can also just treat yourself to one of the elegant pens. QE‑12, Löwenstrasse 19, 8Löwenplatz, tel. (+41) 44 273 90 00, www.carandache.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Mon 10:30 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

Zurich boutique to find everything from finest bed linen, duvets, pillows and cushions to carpets, accessories and bath textiles. All of the standard sizes are available here, but the staff can also take custom orders. They’ll also be happy to help you find the perfect interior fabrics to match your personality and your home.QF‑13, Kappelergasse 11, 8Börsenstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 211 57 47, www.fischbacher.com. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 16:00. Closed Sun.

XESS + BABA xess + baba has been synonymous with successfully designed Swiss knitwear for men and women since 1994 when Tina Grässli founded the label. Almost all of the patterned jackets, pullovers, tops and dresses are reversible and can be worn either way thanks to a special technique that connects two layers of knit. Timeless, yet surprisingly modern.QB‑11, Tödistrasse 44, 8Stockerstrasse, tel. (+41) 43 243 84 90, www.xessbaba.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Fri 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, closed Mon, Tue, Sun.

SWISS FABRICS

Quality Swiss fabrics on sale at Christian Fischbacher.

BOUTIQUE CHRISTIAN FISCHBACHER For nearly 200 years this family-owned Swiss company has produced fine fabrics for luxurious interiors. Drop by its

FABRIC FRONTLINE Exquisite foulards, scarfs, ties and coats all made of coloured, patterned silk, is what the Swiss family business Fabric Frontline specialises in. You can find it all in their store in the covered courtyard of the Credit Suisse building at Paradeplatz.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 25, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 222 20 00, www.fabricfrontline.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

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SWISS FOOD PRETÔT DELIKATESSEN It‘s all about sausages here: smoked, dried, for boiling coming from all the different corners of Switzerland, straight to the heart of Zurich.QF‑12, Kuttelgasse 3, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 221 05 33, www.lafinebouche.ch. Open 09:30 -18:00, Mon 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:30 - 16:30, Closed Sun.

Luxury Bedding

Kappelergasse 11 8001 Zürich +41 44 211 57 47 WWW.FISCHBACHER.COM

50 Zurich In Your Pocket

TRITT-KÄSE Dozens of different cheeses from all corners of Switzerland. Don’t be shy, ask for a taster! The sales staff is usually happy to cut some for you or to recommend their favourites. QD‑8, Limmatstrasse 231 (Im Viadukt), 8Dammweg, tel. (+41) 43 366 87 88, www.tritt.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

SOUVENIRS DOLMETSCH They offer classic Swiss souvenirs and gifts such as the Swiss army knives from Victorinox, many watch brands as well as a large choice of Swiss textiles like T-Shirts and zurich.inyourpocket.com


Shopping TEDDY’S SOUVENIR-SHOP At Teddy’s they have a wide range of souvenirs and gifts. Whether it’s watches, cowbells, hats, music boxes, soft toys, pocket knives or clothes you’re after: you’ll find it all at their shop on Limmatquai, just next to the church Grossmünster. And it’s not just souvenirs of Zurich, like beer glasses with the city’s coat of arms, but from all over Switzerland. For example the sännechutte, a traditional shirt worn by alpine herdsmen since days of yore. And yes, this souvenir shop is open even on Sundays.QG‑13, Limmatquai 34, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 261 22 89, www.teddyssouvenirshop.ch. Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 17:00. outdoor fashion. Free engraving service on Victorinox knives for customers directly in the shop. Sister shop Swiss Shop 1291 at ShopVille underground at the main railway station.QG‑11, Limmatquai 126, 8Central, tel. (+41) 44 251 55 44, www.dolmetsch.ch. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00, in summer Fri & Sat 09:00 - 22:00. MENG CUTLERY Meng Cutlery just off Bahnhofstrasse offers classic Swiss souvenirs such as army knives by the famous brand Victorinox. Also in stock: other knives, scissors, watches and more ideas for gifts to take home. Sister shop at Poststrasse 4 (E-4).QF‑12, Rennweg 31, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 211 18 48, www.mengcutlery.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. MESSER-SCHARF Pocket knives are part of Swiss cultural heritage, and messer-scharf takes great pride in this heritage. You’ll find an extensive range of knives and other products by Victorinox, such as kitchen implements, watches or rucksacks. messerscharf also stock high-end kitchen knives by Chroma. QG‑13, Oberdorfstrasse 25, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 251 01 20, www.messer-scharf.ch. Open 09:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Swiss Shop 1291 Entrance Bahnhofstrasse 8001 Zürich, Shop Ville tel. +41 44 211 61 32 www.swiss-shop-1291.ch

SCHWEIZER HEIMATWERK Swiss handcrafted souvenirs of high quality: fashion accessories, toys, bells, books and fondue sets all with lots of Swiss crosses, red and white colours, cows and edelweiss. Sister shop at Bahnhofstrasse 2.QG‑12, Uraniastrasse 1, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. (+41) 44 222 19 55, www.heimatwerk.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 18:00. Closed Sun. SWISS SHOP 1291 This shop offers classic Swiss souvenirs and gifts such as the Swiss army knives from Victorinox, many watch brands as well as a large choice of Swiss textiles like T-shirts and outdoor fashion. Sister shop Dolmetsch at Limmatquai 126 in the Niederdorf.QF‑11, ShopVille, entrance Bahnhofstrasse, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 44 211 61 32, www.swiss-shop-1291.ch. Open 09:00 - 21:00. VICTORINOX FLAGSHIP STORE This is the Zurich flagship store by Victorinox, the Swiss family business of world renown. They may be best known for their Swiss army knives, but they also produce other high-quality items like cutlery, watches, travel gear and fashion - which is all in stock at this store of course. At the Knife Assembly Station you can even make your own unique Swiss army knife by choosing size, functions and colours.QF‑12, Rennweg 58, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 229 60 70, www.victorinox.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:30 - 18:30. Closed Sun. funny Swiss souvenirs and Swiss textiles. We have largest range of Victorinox famous Swiss knives and engrave all knives for free in our shops within few minutes. We also sell most famous Swiss made watches.

Limmatquai 126, 8001 Zürich tel. +41 44 251 55 44 www.swiss-shop-1291.ch

Auswahl an Souvenirs und Schweizer T-Shirts, sowie Victorinox Taschenmesser und Swiss Made Uhren. Wir gravieren bei uns gekaufte Messer kostenlos vor Ihren Augen.

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August – September 2018 51


Watches & Jewellery Switzerland is the country of watches - yet another cliché? Actually, it couldn’t be more true. More than 95% of all watches with a value of over 1000Sfr are made in Switzerland! The Swiss watch industry started off in Geneva around 1600, founded by Huguenots who had fled France. Zurich however is a prime shopping spot for watches today. Whether on busy Bahnhofstrasse or in a quieter corner, you will find a huge selection of brands and models here. The next couple of pages will guide you!

TAX FREE SHOPPING As a foreign resident you are entitled to a refund when making purchases for more than 300Sfr (including VAT), provided the goods leave the country within 30 days. You will get back the VAT, which in Switzerland is only 7.7% - minus a handling fee. It’s as easy as this: watch out for the Global Blue - Tax Free sign. When paying, ask for a tax refund form. When leaving Switzerland, present your purchases, receipts and passport to Swiss customs officials. They will stamp your tax refund form. To claim an immediate refund, present your stamped tax refund form at a Global Blue refund point (e.g. at Zurich Airport or all around Europe). For more infos see www​.global-blue​.com.

AIRBIJOUX A fine selection of watches at the lake end of Bahnhofstrasse: e.g. Baume & Mercier, Charriol and Eterna. QF‑14, Bahnhofstrasse 1, 8Börsenstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 212 21 71, www.airbijoux.com. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. CHRIST WATCHES & JEWELRY With more than 70 shops, CHRIST is the biggest jeweler in Switzerland. Find top watch brands like Rado, Tag Heuer, Certina, Frederique Constant and their very own CHRIST Swiss Made as well as many fashion jewels. There are sister shops at the department store Jelmoli (Seidengasse 1, F-12), ShopVille at the main train station and the shopping centre Sihlcity (Kalanderplatz 1, C-16).QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 78, 8Bahnhofstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 212 14 47, www.christ-swiss.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Closed Sun.

BEYER WATCHES & JEWELLERY For more than 250 years Beyer has been selling and repairing watches. The family business is now managed by the eighth generation. Beyer specializes in selling some of the world’s most sought-after brands, such as Patek Philippe, Rolex, Breguet, Hublot, IWC, Chopard and Cartier, as well as its own Beyer brand.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 31, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 43 344 63 63, www.beyer-ch.com. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Sat 09:30 - 16:00. Closed Sun. FATA MORGANA Fata Morgana specialises in fairly produced and traded jewellery as well as all kinds of accessories and even lamps and interior design items. It stocks for example imaginative collections by Auryn Jewels and silver jewellery for men by D’Oz Hommes, not to mention handmade Indonesian pieces by E’Kollektion. All of it is presented in a unique way in this lovely shop on Limmatquai. QLimmatquai 36, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 262 18 06, www.fata-morgana.ch. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 18:00. Closed Sun. GELLNER & FRIENDS This is jewellery manufacturer Gellner’s flagship store in Switzerland and here it’s all about cultured pearls. The collection includes elegant earrings, bracelets, necklaces and daring rings, all designed and handmade at the factory. Apart from Gellner’s very own pieces, the shop also sells jewellery by Danish designer Ole Lynggaard, Dutch brand Minitials and renowned watches by Nomos Glashütte. QF‑12, Strehlgasse 27, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 552 24 03, www.gellnerandfriends.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Closed Sun.

Strehlgasse 27 | 8001 Zürich | gellnerandfriends.ch

KURZ JEWELLERY AND WATCHES Kurz have a large selection of jewellery e.g. by Chopard and from their own workshops, as well as a broad range of mainly Swiss watch brands like Omega, Zenith, Maurice Lacroix, Tissot, Rado and many more (sister shop

52 Zurich In Your Pocket AZ_Gellner_NOMOS_Zuerichinyourpocket_60x90.indd 1

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Watches & Jewellery at Globus, Schweizergasse 11).QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 80, 8Bahnhofstrasse/HB, tel. (+41) 44 219 77 77, www.kurzschmuckuhren.ch. Open 09:15 - 18:30, Sat 09:15 - 17:00. Closed Sun. LES AMBASSADEURS Find a large selection of Swiss watches and jewellery at Les Ambassadeurs store. They have long established partnerships with leading brands such as Audemars Piguet, Blancpain, Breguet, Breitling, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Jaquet Droz, Longines, Vacheron Constantin, Omega as well as Pasquale Bruni and Pomellato. Their sales staff provide expert advice in many languages.QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 64, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 227 17 17, www.lesambassadeurs.ch. Open 09:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun. PARTIME This Swiss designer watch simultaneously shows the time of day and how much of the day is left. The blue area within a circle represents the amount of time still remaining in the day, while a white area gradually eats into the blue. Find it at Teddy’s Souvenir Shop and the retailers indicated on page 54, order it in the webshop, or ask for an express delivery to your hotel.QG‑13, Teddy’s Souvenir Shop, Limmatquai 34, tel. (+41) 43 422 00 11, www.partimewatch.com. Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.

www.christ-swiss.ch

WELCOME TO SWITZERLAND’S FIRST DESTINATION FOR WATCHES AND JEWELRY with a selection of more than 50 exclusive brands.

Watches and jewellery in the shop window at Gellner & Friends. PD

TISSOT BOUTIQUE The traditional Swiss watchmaker Tissot has its very own boutique on Zurich’s Bahnhofstrasse. Find all their latest watches for men and women in their modern salesrooms. QF‑11, Bahnhofstrasse 94, 8Bahnhofstrasse/HB, tel. (+41) 44 222 18 53, www.tissotwatches.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

I N T E R L A K E N | LU C E R N E | ZU R I C H | G E N E VA L AU S A N N E | M O N T R EU X | LU GA N O

VAINARD Vainard creates classic diamond jewellery as well as a more daring designer’s collection - inspired by Art deco and modernity with strong black and white contrasts, be it rings, earrings, bracelets or bangles. This jewellery almost eludes description - perhaps it’s best if you go and have a peek yourself.QG‑13, Schlüsselgasse 4, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 210 04 44, www.vainard.com. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun closed. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

August – September 2018 53


A. Lange & Söhne Audemars Piguet Balmain Baume & Mercier Bell & Ross Beyer Blancpain Breguet Breitling Bulgari Cartier Certina Charriol Chopard Corum De Grisogono Ebel Eterna Franck Muller Girard Perregaux Hublot IWC Schaffhausen Jaquet Droz Jaeger-LeCoultre Jowissa Longines Louis Erard Maurice Lacroix Mido Mondaine Movado Nomos Glashütte Omega Oris Parmigiani Fleurier Patek Philippe Piaget Quinting Rado Raymond Weil Rolex Swatch Swiss Military TAG Heuer Tiffany Tissot Ulysse Nardin Urwerk Victorinox Swiss Army Vulcain Wenger Zenith Zurich Partime

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Chopard Boutique, Bahnhofstrasse 40

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Central Jewellery, Limmatquai 140

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Feist Daniel, Seefeldstrassse 45

Cartier Joailliers, Pelikanstrasse 6

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Bulgari, Bahnhofstrasse 25

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Breguet, Bahnhofstrasse 31

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Les Ambassadeurs, Bahnhofstrasse 64

Meister Uhren, Bahnhofstrasse 33

Meng Cutlery, Poststrasse 4

Meng Cutlery, Rennweg 31

messer-scharf, Oberdorfstrasse 25

Omega Boutique, Bahnhofstrasse 48

Oscar Stahel, Gerbergasse 5

Patek Philippe Boutique, Bahnhofstr. 31

Rolex Boutique, Bahnhofstrasse 17

Swatch Store, Bahnhofstrasse 52

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Tissot Boutique, Bahnhofstrasse 94

Victorinox Flagship Store, Rennweg 58

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Lake Zurich August – September 2018 55


Leisure There are plenty of things to do in and around Zurich. Show your friends and colleagues who’s boss with a competitive game of laser tag, billiards or bowling or show off your smarts on a scavenger hunt. Find many more suggestions on www.zurich.inyourpocket.com

Laser Arena: there’s nothing more fun than a laser gun.

PD

FUN & GAMES LASER ARENA & PAINTBALL Yay! Zurich finally has laser tag! Hide behind obstacles on different floors and tag as many of your opponents with your laser gun as possible to score points. But watch out, or you might get tagged yourself. That said, it’s worth mentioning that, this is a completely harmless game, so no protective gear is required. All you need is a laser gun and a sensor on your chest to play. The Laser Arena can accommodate up to 24 players and you can play with two big teams or split up into smaller groups. A game lasts 12 minutes and the person or team with the highest score wins. Make a reservation on its website or just drop by to have some great laser fun with friends, family or colleagues. They also run a paintball arena a 40-minutes drive from Zurich (www.paintball-arena.ch).QD‑15, Brandschenkestrasse 178, 8Waffenplatzstrasse, tel. (+41) 848 31 23 12, www.laser-arena.ch. Open Wed 14:00 - 22:00, Thu 18:00 - 22:00, Fri 18:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue. One 12-minute game costs 15/12Sfr. Book more than two games and get a discount.

paintball-arena.ch

BILLIARDS & BOWLING BOWLING WEST Bowling West is located in Schlieren, just three stops with the S-train from Zurich’s main train station (S12 or S3 direction Baden/Brugg or Aarau). In Schlieren cross to the northern side of the tracks and walk five minutes back in the direction where the train came from. This bowling centre has 17 lanes and a bar to relax after some gruelling competition. Booking by phone recommended.QIfangstrasse 8, Schlieren, tel. (+41) 44 731 02 06, www.bowling-west.ch. Open 14:00 - 23:00, Fri & Sat 14:00 - 01:30, Sun 14:00 22:00. June - Aug 17:00 - 23:00, Wed 14:00 - 23:00, Fri 17:00 - 01:00, Sat 14:00- 01:00, Sun 14:00 - 22:00, Tue closed. 38 - 47Sfr per hour and lane. CAFÉ SCHLAUCH The Schlauch is a traditional restaurant in the old town which has about a dozen billiards tables on its premises. Being the only place in the city centre offering the opportunity to play pool (as far as we know at least), tables are often busy. But as the Schlauch is a restaurant too, you simply let the guys put you on the reservation list and sit down and have a beer or two. They serve hearty organic food as well - so why not have dinner before you play some sports?QG‑13, Münstergasse 20, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 251 23 04, www. cafeschlauch.ch. Open 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon, Sun. FOXTRAIL - SCAVENGER HUNT Foxtrail has developed its own portfolio of scavenger hunts in locations across Switzerland. In Zurich, it offers seven itineraries in English, the latest one indoors at the main train station, which might be preferable in bad wetaher. Working as a team (2 - 7 people), Zurich becomes your playground. To stay on the trail of the fox, you need to break codes and find hidden messages together. While following the clues you pass some of the city’s highlights, but also some less explored corners of town. You can book your starting time on its website and with the accompanying documents you can do the trail at your own pace. If you get stuck, a helpline is available to help you advance.Qtel. (+41) 41 329 80 00, www.foxtrail.ch.

laser-arena.ch

OBERER ZÜRICHSEE | ZÜRICH CITY | LUZERN | BASEL | BERN 56 Zurich In Your Pocket

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Zurich for kids Are we there yet?! Children have their own idea of how to have a good time and stylish bars or Gothic cathedrals may not exactly do the trick. But no fear, there’s plenty to do with children in Zurich. Find more suggestions on www.zurich.inyourpocket.com.

LEISURE & SPORTS Little guests need room to jump and run. Not to mention swim, skate or canoe. The most central playground is next to Lindenhof (p. 36, E-3) and there is a large one next to the Chinese garden. The Gemeinschaftszentren (or GZ), community centres of the city also have good playgrounds. And we are sure a chocolate factory or a science city will also make their hearts beat faster. CHOCOLAT FREY VISITOR CENTRE You and your kids can get to know how chocolate is made in a playful way at the visitor centre of Chocolat Frey, Switzerland’s biggest chocolate producer. On the expert trail some of Frey’s chocolate makers will explain and demonstrate the production of those sweet delicacies. And yes, you and your kids will be able to taste some, be they pieces straight from the production line or from the two chocolate fountains. You can watch Röbi the Robot pack chocolates or dress up as a cocoa bean and make funny photos to surprise your friends with. You can also identify different smells in the Aroma Lab or play a giant computer game. Afterwards you can fortify yourself up in the café and, of course, buy all of the Frey delicacies at the shop. This

Yes, at Chocolat Frey you can taste all of those chocolates.

PD

pleasant day trip, which isn’t just for chocolate connoisseurs, is reachable in only 39 minutes from Zurich (take the train to Aarau, then bus Nº1 to the Industrie stop in Buchs). QBresteneggstrasse 4, Buchs, tel. (+41) 62 836 24 25, www.chocolatfrey.ch. Open 10:00 - 17:00, closed Mon. Admission 12/10/6Sfr, family ticke (6-16 years) 30/18Sfr. Free admission to the café with a playground and shop.

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App

SWEET CHOCOLATE MOMENTS CHOCOLAT FREY VISITOR CENTRE

The Chocolat Frey visitor centre just 39 minutes from Zurich central station by public transport Free entry to the Café Frey with its chocolate factory playground and to the Boutique Frey Chocolat Frey Visitor Centre Bresteneggstrasse 4 | CH-5033 Buchs bei Aarau Tel. 0041 (0) 62 836 24 25, besucherzentrum@chocolatfrey.ch www.chocolatfrey.ch

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August – September 2018 57


Zurich for kids SHOPS

Franz Carl Weber

FRANZ CARL WEBER This is the toy shop to visit in the city centre conveniently located right next to the main station. See also p. 48.QF‑12, Bahnhofplatz 9, 8Bahnhofplatz/ HB, tel. (+41) 44 225 78 78, www.fcw.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. MOGLI CHINDERLADE This charming little shop sells clothes for children up to ten years, colourful, cheeky and never run-of-themill. Many of the brands like Lana, frugi or Selana are ecologically and socially responsible. They also have hand-tailored pieces from a local seamstress.QG‑12, Schipfe 39, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 211 58 87, www.mogli-chinderlade.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Mon, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, closed Sun. GEMEINSCHAFTSZENTREN (COMMUNITY CENTRES) The 17 community centres, called Gemeinschaftszentren, are co-funded by the city. They function as a meeting point for the residents of a district and can be visited by anyone for free. They usually have a playground for kids and a little café-bar, many offer organised activities and some even have some farm animals to watch and stroke. A visit is sure to be fun for you and your kids, not just because you are likely to meet other families there. Here we list some cool and more central ones, see www.gz-zh.ch for all locations. They are usually open 10:00 - 18:00 and some 14:00 - 17:00/18:00 on the weekend: • GZ Schindlergut, Kronenstrasse 12, tel. (+41) 44 365 24 40 • GZ Wipkingen (on the river), Breitensteinstrasse 19 a, tel. (+41) 44 276 82 80 • GZ Wollishofen (on the lake), Bachstrasse 70, tel. (+41) 43 243 11 37 JOSEFSWIESE Park with large playing field, playground, small snack bar and kiosk. No admission fees.QC‑8, Josefstrasse 197, 8Quellenstrasse. 58 Zurich In Your Pocket

KINDERCITY Kindercity is a science city for children aged 3 to 12, much more hands-on than a museum - and when did you last do bungee-jumping in a museum? Different so-called knowledge lanes are dedicated to topics like the human body, renewable energy or modern communication, using sight, sound, smell and action to let children discover, accompanied by an adult. There is a café, open-air play areas, magic trains and a car driving school on the roof for underaged drivers - and much more. From Zurich, take trains S9 or S14 (direction Hinwil/Uster), change at Schwerzenbach to the bus in direction of Volketswil, get off at Volkiland, Chliriet (duration: 22 minutes).QChlirietstrasse 12, Volketswil, tel. (+41) 43 204 30 60, www.kindercity.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Daypass (cinema and knowledge lanes) 31.50Sfr, activities can also be booked separately e.g. knowledge lane 16.50Sfr (22.50 adults). PUBLIC LAKE BATHS MYTHENQUAI Sandy beaches, ice cream, table tennis - you’ll find it all at Mythenquai, a large lido with all you could ask for. There’s a large non-swimming area in the lake with large water toys, ball playing areas and diving boards for those who dare. Parents may be more interested in the deck chairs and sunshades that can be borrowed for free, you just leave a deposit.QMythenquai 95, 8Brunaustrasse, tel. (+41) 44 201 00 00. Open 09:00 - 20:00 (May 10 - Sept 16, 2018), weather permitting (open with every weather daily 09:00 - 11:00). Admission 8/6/4Sfr.

A proud deer at Wildnispark.

PD

PARKS & ZOOS WILDNISPARK ZÜRICH Zurich Wildlife Park features two different attractions at two different locations not very far from one another. At Langenberg you’ll find  wild animals like  bears, deer, European bison, otters, beavers, wild boar and many more creatures (in enclosures). All of them are indigenous to Switzerland and can be watched here almost as if they were still in the wild. Seasonal, short guided tours with exciting stories about these animals are also available. The other attraction is  Sihlwald, a protected  forest which has largely been left to its own devices, so animals and little adventurers feel very much at home here. It’s accessible zurich.inyourpocket.com


Zurich for kids from Sihlwald, where you’ll also find a visitor centre, which offers suggestions on where to hike in this wilderness area that’s similar to a primeval forest. There’s also a nature museum with exhibits on weasels, stoats and otters at the centre (6/3Sfr). Most of the enclosures, the barbecue areas and playgrounds are accessible all the time and have free admission. There are restaurants at both Langenberg and Sihlwald.QAlte Sihltalstrasse 38, Sihlwald, tel. (+41) 44 722 55 22, www.wildnispark.ch. Get there from Zurich’s main train station with the S4 (SZU). For Langenberg (enclosures) exit at Wildpark-Höfli. From there it’s a 30-minute walk. For Sihlwald (forest and visitor centre) leave the train at Sihlwald (plus a 5-minute walk). Restaurant and visitors’ centre in the park. The forest and most of the the enclosures are accessible year round.

Hello world! We can call you from Kindercity!

PD

ZURICH ZOO Zurich Zoo is located on Zürichberg high above the city. The pride of this zoological garden, which was opened in 1929, is the Masoala Rainforest hall, simulating the ecosystem in the Masoala National Park in Madagascar across some 10,000m2. Animals like lemurs or giant tortoises can move freely around in the hall as you watch and walk by on a path through the forest. Keep your eyes peeled, a chameleon might be sitting on a branch right next to you. Since 1992 Zurich Zoo has gradually been changing the traditional-style enclosures into whole ecosystems which better meet the animals’ needs. The latest that has been opened is the all-new 11,000m2 elephant park.QL‑10, Zürichbergstrasse 221, 8Zoo, tel. (+41) 848 96 69 83, www.zoo.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 26/21(16 20 years)/13Sfr, free for kids up to 5 years.

RESTAURANTS KAFI FÜR DICH This café next to the park Bäckeranlage has a children’s corner where your young ones can paint the walls with chalk or play with one of the many toys while you sit and have a coffee. Often the place is so popular with parents you have to weave your way through the many push chairs standing around.QStauffacherstrasse 141, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. (+41) 43 317 91 60, www.fuerdich.ch. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 02:00, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

wilderness near Zurich wildnispark.ch

August – September 2018 59


Day trips If you have some more time on your hands you might want to explore a bit further afield and leave Zurich for a day. With the warm weather here, it’s time to discover Switzerland’s stunning landscapes. Many scenic destinations also offer cultural sites. We’ve put together a selection of our favourites. And there are plenty of other options to consider such as museums, monasteries and thermal baths. For more recommendations check www.zurich.inyourpocket.com.

CULTURE & HERITAGE EINSIEDELN ABBEY Einsiedeln (meaning ‘hermit’s’) Abbey is one of the finest examples of Baroque architecture in Switzerland. The Benedictine abbey complex was built from scratch in the early 18th century, replacing older buildings going back to the 10th century. The church with its opulent, gold and marble interior and the shrine of the black madonna is open for visitors daily from 06:00 - 20:30 (21:00 in summer), but be considerate during services. The small town of the same name is set among wooded hills, just at the edge of the Alps. There are two trains an hour from Zurich (change at Wädenswil).QEinsiedeln, tel. (+41) 55 418 61 11, www.kloster-einsiedeln.ch. Guided tours start at 14:00 (105 minutes) every day except Sundays and cost 15/7.50Sfr. Unfortunately the tours are in German only. Meeting point is Einsiedeln Tourism, Hauptstrasse 85, tel +41 55 418 44 88. No need to book.

GLASSBLOWING FACTORY - GLASI HERGISWIL The Glasi in Hergiswil is first and foremost a working glass factory where craftsmen blow glass objects such as vases, wine glasses or Christmas tree decorations. You can watch the glassblowers at work and you can blow your own glass ball under supervision. Different exhibitions and a museum show the history of the factory and the different physical properties of glass. There is also a glass maze which is quite a challenge to navigate. To get there take a train to Luzern (Lucerne) from Zurich main train station and change there to the train to Hergiswil (75 minutes).QSeestrasse 12, Hergiswil, tel. (+41) 41 632 32 32, www.glasi.ch. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Sun closed. Admission free, museum 7Sfr, glass maze 5Sfr. Making your own glass ball costs 20Sfr.

Fine Baroque architecture is a highlight at Einsiedeln Abbey.

VIEW TO A THRILL Explore Mt. Rigi now!

OPEN SKY Fully included in the Swiss Travel Pass

60 Zurich In Your Pocket

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ENEA TREE MUSEUM (BAUMMUSEUM) The world’s first and only tree museum is located on Lake Zurich, close to Rapperswil-Jona. A selection of trees from the collection of Swiss landscape architect and tree collector Enzo Enea are on display at the 75,000sqm park. By creating a series of open spaces the architect has shown how trees can be used as space creating objects while using their aesthetics and paying respect to the absolutely vital function they serve. With this museum Enea thoroughly combined his vision of merging architecture, landscapes, botany, art and design. The museum boasts over 50 trees from more than 25 species, some of which are over 100 years old, and a further 100 trees and plants are located in the park surrounding the tree museum. Since 2013, sculptures by contemporary artists have been on display in the park, creating a unique choreography of art work and trees. A beautiful and definitely rather special experience.QBuechstrasse 12, Jona, tel. (+41) 55 225 55 55, www.enea.ch/baummuseum. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Admission 15/12Sfr. To get there from Zurich take a train to Rapperswil, than bus 622 to Buechstrasse West or St. Dionys (48 minutes all in all). zurich.inyourpocket.com


Day trips MOUNTAIN TOURS

A daring walk on the suspension bridge on Titlis.

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MOUNTAINS & NATURE

BEST OF SWITZERLAND TOURS Day trips organised by tour operators are an easy way to explore Switzerland and its gorgeous mountains. Forget the hassle with timetables, itineraries and the like. Just snuggle into your bus seat and let them guide you through the day. Best of Switzerland tours for example offers daily trips from Zurich to Pilatus, Rigi, Titlis and Jungfraujoch. For instance you can take the rotating gondola up to Titlis (more than 3000 metres asl), where an encounter with ice, snow and a glacier await you. They also have a city tour to Luzern. Just check their website for available tours and book up to a day before - online or by phone. The tour busses leave from the Zurich Bus terminal Sihlquai, just next to the Hauptbahnhof (main train station, F-10). Qwww.switzerland-tours.ch, tel. (+41) 44 710 50 50.

RHEINFALL - EUROPE’S TALLEST WATERFALL A trip to the Rheinfall makes for a great day out. Europe’s tallest waterfall is just a 50-minute train ride from Zurich. Close to the city of Schaffhausen, the water of the River Rhine plunges down an impressive 23 metres at a width of more than 150 metres. By train it’s easiest to approach the falls from Neuhausen Rheinfall (take the S9 train directly from Zurich main train station). After a short walk you’ll arrive at the bottom of the falls. From here, you can take a boat over to the visitor centre (3/2Sfr) or to the rock in the middle of the waterfall (every 10 minutes from 10:00 - 18:00 for 20/15Sfr). Stairs lead up the rock where you’re afforded a fantastic view of the falls, spray included. The visitor centre features an exhibition about the history of the Rheinfall (5/3Sfr including access to the viewing platform). QNeuhausen am Rheinfall, www.rheinfall.ch.

down just part of the way, as the train has several stops where you can jump back on. The fastest way from Zurich is to take a train to Arth-Goldau (40 minutes) from where the cogwheel train takes you to the top in another 40 minutes. QRigi Bahnen AG, Vitznau, tel. (+41) 41 399 87 87, www.rigi.ch. From Vitznau roughly from 09:00 - 22:00. From Weggis daily from 08:00 - 19:00. From Arth-Goldau from 08:00 - 18:00. Check website for exact timetables. Return ticket to Rigi (so called daypass) 72/36Sfr.

RIGI - MOUNTAIN WITH A VIEW Mount Rigi (from regina, Latin for queen) is famous for spectacular views of the Alps and the easy access. The majestic mountain lies between Lake Lucerne, Lake Zug and Lake Lauerz. Don’t forget to bring a jacket as it can be chilly at 1,800 metres above sea level. There are two cogwheel railways going up the Rigi from two different sides, one starting in Arth-Goldau, the other one in Vitznau. The cogwheel railway leaving from Vitznau is Europe’s first mountain railway. At the top there are several restaurants, around 120 kilometres of hiking trails and covered picnic and barbecue spots. Hikers have the option of walking

TITLIS - ENGELBERG A rotating gondola takes you from the village of Engelberg up to Titlis at more than 3,000m above sea level. There you have spectacular views of the glacier and dozens of the surrounding mountains. There are all kinds of snow and ice activities that await you here including  snow tubing (whiz down the piste on a rubber tyre), a cliff walk and an ice cave. A number of different restaurants are also available and after you’ve filled your belly you can walk it off with many ambitious hiking options or leisurely strolls. QGerschnistrasse 12, Engelberg, tel. (+41) 41 639 50 50, www.titlis.ch. First ascent 08:30, last ascent 16:00.

facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

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Queer Zurich Zurich is undoubtedly Switzerland’s gay and lesbian capital and is in general quite queer-friendly. What better proof than the re-election of lesbian Corinne Mauch as mayor in the spring 2018 (in office since 2009)? Zurich’s vibrant queer scene was one of the driving forces in creating today’s club culture. Of course, some of the queer venues are cool places to hang out even if you’re hetero. Zurich’s queer calendar has several major events, all in spring or summer. For over 10 years a Christopher Street Day has been held in June. Called Zurich Pride Festival (www.zurichpridefestival.ch) today, this is a huge event with parties, open-air bars and a colourful parade through the city. In spring the Pink Apple film festival (April 30 May 9, 2019,  www.pinkapple.ch) shows gay and lesbian films from all over the world and awards a prize to one young director. But the queer scene is also very lively, big events aside. Whether you’re looking for a gay-friendly bar to relax in, gay and lesbian clubbing or venues of a more raunchy variety, you’ll find it in Zurich. Check out the websites we list or just ask around in some of the bars.

MÄNNERZONE A gay sex shop with fetish articles during the week (Tue to Fri 12:00 - 19:00 and Sat 12:00 - 17:00), the Männerzone (men’s zone) turns into a very popular gay bar on Fridays and particularly Saturdays. It’s men only and tends to be 30 and up, though there’s no official rule on age. It’s strictly a bar, no dancing, which maybe fits the many bearded, beary guys you’ll find here.QD‑11, Kernstrasse 57, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. (+41) 43 243 30 43, www.maennerzone.ch. Bar open Fri & Sat 21:30 - 02:30, in summer 22:00 - 03:00. PETRA’S TIP TOP BAR Chanson - or what is called schlager in German - is at the top of the menu here. But there’s enough Abba, Boney M and what have you as well. Host Peter is well known - especially for his drag performances. A cosy place for some nostalgic merrymaking.QH‑12, Seilergraben 13, 8Neumarkt, tel. (+41) 44 251 78 20, www.tip-top-bar.ch. Open 18:30 - late. Closed Mon, Sun. A

CLUBS HEAVEN The Heaven is a cosy queer club featuring music from charts and house to more underground tastes.QG‑12, Spitalgasse 5, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, www.heavenclub.ch. Open usually Fri & Sat 23:00 - 06:00. A

The Zurich Pride festival is an extravaganza.

Zurich Tourism

CAFÉS & BARS CRANBERRY Campari is a major theme in this minimalist bar - a play on the most famous Swiss German pop song Campari Soda? You can certainly order campari soda, but the team will make you most any other cocktail - and well. The Cranberry is a buzzing bar for gays, lesbians and anybody gay-friendly. There are occasional theme parties. Check out the website for some useful queer links.QG‑12, Metzgergasse 3, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 261 27 72, www.cranberry.ch. Open 17:00 - late. A DANIEL H. Daniel H. is a low-key star in Zurich’s gay bar scene. With no exuberant glamour and just the occasional party, Daniel H. is very relaxed and heterofriendly. The finger food on offer is also quite a treat. Good place to pick up flyers on gay parties and events in Zurich, they also sell tickets for some events.QD‑11, Müllerstrasse 51, 8Stauffacher, tel. (+41) 44 241 41 78, www.danielh.ch. Open 17:00 24:00, Fri 17:00 - 02:00, Sat 19:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Sun. A­K 62 Zurich In Your Pocket

RAGE Rage is a factory of a cruising club with all the works darkrooms, slings, tubs and, of course, bars. Sector C is fetish pure, with a strict dresscode and changing themes. Only men are admitted. Get there by train to Schlieren station or with bus 31 to the stop Wagonsfabrik. Nightbuses on the weekend.QWagistrasse 13, Schlieren, www.rage.ch. Thu 19:00 - 01:00, Fri 22:00 - 04:00, Sat 22:00 - 05:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. In summer Fri & Sat only. 8-20Sfr. A­X

RESOURCES GAYMEBOYS.COM ONLINE MAGAZINE This is a Zurich-centred gay online community with English-language content. There’s a chat area, personals and a listing of up-coming events and info on gay venues. It’s free, for some services you have to register.Qwww.gaymeboys.com. LGBT+ HELPLINE LGBT+ Helpline offers telephone counselling and operates as a registration office for homophobic violence. Counselling for non-emergency matters is available Mon - Thu 19:00 - 21:00. In case of homophobic violence you can call 24hrs to report the incident, or report the incident online. Counselling is in German but many counsellors speak at least some English. It’s free to call. The number is (+41) 800 133 133.Qtel. (+41) 800 133 133, www.lgbt-helpline.ch. zurich.inyourpocket.com


Hotels SYMBOL KEY P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted T Child-friendly

H Conference facilities

R Internet in room U Facilities for the disabled F Fitness centre

L Parking on site

K Restaurant

8 Nearest tram station

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

6 Animal friendly

W Wi-fi connection

J City centre location

Zurich is a business destination first and foremost and hotel rates reflect that. From Friday night to Monday morning, prices often drop sharply. Why not take advantage of this and spend a weekend in one of the many four- and five-star hotels in the city? Despite this, accommodation in Zurich remains rather pricey and real budget accommodation is rare. But nevertheless there is something for any taste and almost any budget.

River Limmat in the old town and even has its own private landing stage for river boats. The rooms vary in size, are decorated either classically or contemporary and offer either a view over the river or over the old town towards St. Peter’s church. On the first floor the Restaurant Rôtisserie serves fish and meat specialities on a lovely terrace above the river.QG‑13, Weinplatz 2, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 227 27 27, www.storchen.ch. 66 rooms. A­P­U­B­ J­R­6­W­K­H hhhhh

UPMARKET ENGIMATT Located in the residential area Enge, the Engimatt offers peace and quiet just a few minutes away from the main sights, as well as a large garden and an outdoor tennis court. Rooms are classically decorated and all feature amenities like a capsule coffee machine and ironing equipment. Upgrade to a superior room for more space. The Sihlcity shopping mall with its many restaurants and entertainment opportunities is just around the corner and the city centre is close by tram or on foot (15 min). If you don’t feel like going out at all, the in-house restaurant Orangerie serves good Swiss and French style food.QC‑16, Engimattstrasse 14, 8Waffenplatzstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 284 16 16, www.engimatt.ch. 73 rooms. A­P­U­L­ R­6­W­K­H hhhh

In Switzerland hotels are officially categorized with stars from one to five. The categorization is done by hotelleriesuisse, the national hoteliers association. A hotel can also receive the supplement ‘superior’, indicating a higher level of service and quality. We list the hotels according to their official classification in the following categories: Cream of the Crop*****, Upmarket****, Midrange*** and Budget (0 to **). Outside this classification we list some of the hostels in town. Find more hotels on www.zurich.inyourpocket.com.

CREAM OF THE CROP PARK HYATT ZURICH The luxury Park Hyatt built in 2004 in the middle of Zurich’s business district will impress you. The very spacious standard rooms have full-height windows, free-standing sea-shell bathtubs, a B&O sound and TV system and more. As it’s just a short walk to Bahnhofstrasse or to the lake, the Park Hyatt is just as good a choice for your business trip as it is for exploring Zurich. Needless to say there is a first-class restaurant (parkhuus) and an upmarket bar (Onyx Bar) on the ground floor, as well as a spa with sauna and steam bath. If a standard room doesn’t quite match your needs, there are different kind of suites with uncountable amenities.QF‑14, Beethoven-Strasse 21, 8Stockerstrasse, tel. (+41) 43 883 12 34, www.zurich.park.hyatt.ch. 142 rooms. A­P­ X­U­L­J­R­6­W­K­H­D hhhhh STORCHEN ZÜRICH The Storchen Zürich is a newly renovated five-star hotel of exceptional style. It is situated right on the banks of the facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

Has a UFO parked here? The entrance of the Park Hyatt.

PD

GLOCKENHOF This four-star superior hotel in the middle of Zurich‘s shopping district is located only a few steps from Bahnhofstrasse. The rooms evoke a very modern Swissness: the walls of the bathrooms are clad with quartzite from the Grison mountains and the parquet is made of Swiss oak. In some rooms the shower is just next to the bed, divided only by a see-through glass wall. A coffee machine and mineral water - Swiss of course - are included. In the superior category you get more space and a sofa lounge. Restaurant with nice garden on the ground floor. Discounts on weekends.QF‑12, Sihlstrasse 31, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 225 91 91, www.glockenhof.ch. 91 rooms. A­P­U­L­J­R­6­W­K­H hhhh August – September 2018 63


Hotels BUDGET HOTELS HOTTINGEN This two-star superior hotel was completely refurbished in 2016 and offers functional, well designed rooms with wooden floors and bright colours. The high ceilings make for a comfortable, spacious room feeling. Besides single and double rooms there are rooms for three or even four guests. Most rooms have private bathrooms with showers, all of them feature a flatscreen TV. There is a fully equipped small kitchen on every floor which you can use to prepare a meal or tea and coffee. The old town and the lake are in walking distance (10 15 minutes), tram stop just next to the hotel.QI‑13, Hottingerstrasse 31, 8Hottingerplatz, tel. (+41) 44 256 19 19, www.hotelhottingen.ch. 32 rooms. A­U­L­J­6­W hh HELMHAUS Centrally located in a historic building near the Wasserkirche the rooms of this small and personal hotel have a classy starkness with dark wood floors, modern, sleek bathrooms and 19th century touches. The Superior Room category offers some extra space while the Design rooms on the fifth floor have an individual touch. Soundproof windows make sure you enjoy a good night’s sleep.QG‑13, Schifflände 30, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 266 95 95, www.helmhaus.ch. 24 rooms. A­P­J­W hhhh

NOVOTEL ZÜRICH CITY-WEST The classic Novotel experience: the modern business rooms feature a double bed, a mini-bar, a bathtub or shower and a free dataport and Wi-fi for your laptop. Many roomf can accommodate up to two adults and two children up to 16 years old (on the pull-out sofa) for one standard price. The Novotel is located in Zurich West, a district with many restaurants, clubs and bars. The new tram stops just next to the hotel and takes you to the centre in 10 minutes. Hardbrücke train station is just one stop away. There is also a small swimming pool.QB‑7, Schiffbaustrasse 13, 8Technoparkstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 276 22 00, www.novotel.com/2731. 144 rooms. A­P­T­UB ­ ­ L­R­6­W­K­H­C­F hhhh PALAIS KRAFT The Palais Kraft is one of the more unusual places to stay in Zurich. Located on Zürichberg, Zurich’s rather exclusive residential area, this luxurious private residence offers large studio rooms with high ceilings for long and short term stays as well as serviced apartments with 1 to 3 bedrooms. All studio rooms have wooden floors, a terrace, a flat-screen TV and a kitchenette with a microwave and fridge. With just a small number of rooms and apartments, the Kraft is able to provide a private and personal atmosphere. The tram gets you to the city centre in less than 15 minutes, the stop is just two minutes away. Air-conditioning available. QJ‑11, Kraftstrasse 33, 8Toblerplatz, tel. (+41) 44 388 84 85, www.palaiskraft.com. A­P­U­R­W­D

Eating with all senses THE VBZ GOURMET LINE On the VBZ gourmet line, we‘ll be serving you the most interesting views of Zurich in the rolling restaurant, a vintage tram. Please have a seat: www.vbz.ch/yummytram

genusslinie englisch 124 x 90mm.indd 64 Zurich In Your Pocket

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Hotels

ST. GOTTHARD From many of the rooms of this traditional family-run hotel you get a view straight onto Bahnhofstrasse, Zurich’s most famous shopping street. Perfect for watching the hustle and bustle. The rooms’ decoration is modern with bright yellow and golden colours. All of them feature a kettle for coffee and tea. There is a sauna and a massage room for your recreation. The in-house Hummer bar serves seafood in a traditional, elegant atmosphere. The lobby restaurant and the Manzoni coffee bar with its outdoor seating make this hotel just two minutes from the main train station complete.QF‑11, Bahnhofstr. 87, 8Bahnhofstrasse/HB, tel. (+41) 44 227 77 00, www.hotelstgotthard.ch. 138 rooms. A­P­B­ L­J­R­6­W­K­H­D hhhh

palais kraft Residential Club

WELLENBERG Most of the rooms at the Wellenberg sport beds and curtains in bright, warm colours, dark wooden floors and arty pictures on the walls. Located in the middle of Niederdorf, Zurich’s historic heart, it’s only a few minutes’ walk to the main station and to the shopping street of world renown, Bahnhofstrasse. Dozens of restaurants eager for your custom are close by, but closer still are the in-house Brasserie Louis and the Tina bar. Soundproof windows should make sure you get only the advantages of the location. Lovely terrace for breakfast or an afternoon break. QG‑12, Niederdorfstrasse 10, 8Rudolf-Brun Brücke, tel. (+41) 43 888 44 44, www.hotel-wellenberg.ch. 45 rooms. A­U­J­6­W­K­H hhhh

MID-RANGE LADY’S FIRST DESIGN HOTEL This small hotel is situated in an elegant 19th-century villa in the Seefeld district, not far from the shores of Lake Zurich. The rooms have retained much of their original charm, the high ceilings and wooden panelling blended with modern furnishings to make for a very light, special atmosphere. On the top floor there is a sauna and wellness area which is for women only - as is the roof-top terrace. The hotel is run by a non-profit cooperation, giving socially challenged women an opportunity to work.QH‑16, Mainaustrasse 24, 8Feldeggstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 380 80 10, www .ladysfirst.ch. 28 rooms. A­U­L­6­W­D­i hhh

YOUR PRIVATE APARTMENT 30-200 SQM FOR SHORT & LONG STAYS FRIENDLY ENGLISH SPEAKING STAFF CHILDREN & PETS WELCOME

HOSTELS YOUTH HOSTEL This modern youth hostel has four- and six-bed rooms with bunk beds and shared showers and toilets. All rooms have a small vestibule where lockers and the washbasin are located - so latecomers don‘t wake up the rest. There are also private doubles and four-bed rooms with en-suite bathrooms. 24 hours reception and cheap meals (20Sfr incl. soft drink). It‘s just a five-minute walk to the lake and 15 min by tram to the centre. On the weekends a night bus (N°12) stops right in front of the hostel all night long. Great place to meet other travellers.QMutschellenstrasse 114, 8Morgental, tel. (+41) 43 399 78 00, www.youthhostel.ch/zurich. 76 rooms. A­U­W­K­H facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

PLEASE VISIT OUR WEBSITE WWW.PALAISKRAFT.COM August – September 2018 65


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. 15 rgstsrtr Irchelpark Wibi aRe b beb ad il-Klöti-str. Wu chs Ob tr. Ann Milchbuck ere nde Em Gri id Gu . eser Waid rlistTiè Wa 9 TR g nweg r. ch e str. S g str. ac GG IRCH 9-10 Nord Lehenstr. hs HE Ze LimKmeatEschergutweg str. Universität Irchel ELS tr. UC tbttearlgstr. p B . TR . r t p s 15 Z s ch W g el Irchelpark 5 TW okk ibichs Acker b ber 13 rott ns e steinRe e u t G s o Guggachstr. r. ei Milchbuck tr. str. fw Gu tr. GrieHsöen g ndnesrtlri. Strickhofstr. be l str. ge Waidfussweg TR . rnw gg str. Laubiweg eg GS Im Sy ac dNeofär rstr Dor Lehenstr. IRCH 9-10 EG h H Z . LimmaEschergutweg d f s s C Universität Irchel s B ELS eltir. ep tr. No BU tr. ttalstr. reitenstein T il c pe rds Z s ch str. h buckstr. R . 5 tr. ln Trot okk AckerFischerweg 13 tens est stein of Rotshtsr tr. Guggachstr. Hön Langmauerstr. r.chibaGch e str. tr. i . w Strickhofstr. b g ster.ls R ös ge Waidfussweg 17 Laubiweg tr. Zürich Wipkingen . Im Sy Har defä rstr DWipkingerpl. o r . d d f str. Breitteunr stFörrlibuckstr. e li Ro m esinst Ha Nord il c Lim tr. s t s tr. r. i h b u b b c k z t s t r . t ma sbu r. uc Fischerweg Le ön t 17 h s Schaffhauserpl. Fö Langmauerstr. iba rgs Rothstr. tr. R ögsgcehr chsttrr.. 17 rrli b u c k str. Zürich Wipkingen str . Har Museum für Gestaltung Wipkingerpl. . Letzistr. dtu Förrlibuckstr. Zöllyst - Schaudepot trR. rm r. H L ns otb tr. str. i Unterer Letten a s m i e b Escher-Wyss-Platz W tz ma sbu tt uc Le ön t rgs ss 17 LI e h s Schaffhauserpl. 4 För tr. gg Migros tr. er rli b u c k stSr. m PFIN Technopark e fe w rst GST chi Li Museum Kinkelstr. l ds er r. ffba St Museum für Gestaltung WE Röslistr. R m Letzistr. ks Abaton HZöllyst ma Dammweg ust ID ied - Schaudepot ttr.r. tr. r. ST tUnterer Letten ein r. ns t l e s R. ist Escher-Wyss-Platz W tr. ric Kronenstr. tt 4 r. Schiffbau hs Im Viadukt sas LI e 4 trMigros ier m PFIN Technopark S . fe w GST chi Museum L Kinkelstr. . l e r Jo ds im ffba St WE Röslistr. R rk tr. m Dammweg Quellenstr. Abaton seH u st ID ck ied fst at r. ST radstr. str. ibli ri.n e t Rig l n str is Seilbahn Rigiblick Schindlergut ric Kronenstr. hn Zah R. 4 Gero Schiffbau . Ottikerstr. tr. rstr. lba hs Im Viadukt ldst i . e r Josefwiese t a S s r. tr. r. r. Zürich Hardbrücke W Ottike allus sti Oberer Letten ass G r. Jo er se Quellenstr. Limmatpl. w . ck f r t s er ibli tr. ads Rig hnr

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tr. ns tle Saa

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12

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rh au ss l tr. ta r e Pil d . l a r tus D o olde r st str D . r. hn rst ba se lder Do

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tr.

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11

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TR Er . na str .

dst r.

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Art Dock Zürich H oh Eic hb lst üh Hardpl. 8 r. lst H

Ker nst r.

r. st

Te lls tr.

L

9

Josefwiese

gstr .

La n

Ma ang st tte ng r. .

Ka

Ger olds tr.

Ei sg .

3-14

r

Hi nt er be

Z

.

Neu g.

la n z sc hul str.

Pf

hl Si

Ka se Ge rne ss ne ral lee Ur an ias Löw en

Sp

Zürich Hardbrücke

3-1 4 Lint hes che 6-7-1 rg. 1-1317

g we nn Re B a hn hof str. g. terg. ns

sin Ka

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tr. rs tle m e Limmat quai

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Bahnho f quai

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15 11-4-

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Zoological and Paleontological Museums

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Ethnographic Museum

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2-9

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Capitol

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National Museum

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100

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0

10

Platzspitz

Bus Terminal

Scale 1:8 800 1 cm = 88 m

G

7-15

F

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E

ZURICH CENTRE

Culmannst r.

© OpenStreetMap contributors. Available under the Open Database License.


Index Airbijoux52 Airside Center at Zurich Airport46 Arthouse Movie 17 Babu's Bakery 30 Bauernschänke21 Benci Brothers 48 Best of Switzerland Tours 61 Best of Zurich - Zürich City Tour40 Beyer Watches & Jewellery 52 Bindella22 Blockhus24 Bohemia32 Bootsvermietung Enge 14 Bootsvermietung Rytz + Kreuzer14 Boutique Caran d'Ache 50 Boutique Christian Fischbacher50 Bowling West 56 Brasserie Lipp 21 Burton Store Zürich 47 Café du Bonheur 30 Café Schlauch 56 Calypso32 Carlton31 Chäsalp23 Cheyenne34 Chez Hugo 12 Chocolat Frey Visitor Centre57 CHRIST Watches & Jewelry 52 Clouds25 Commercio23 Cooper's Pub 34 Corso17 Cranberry62 Daniel H. 62 Die Zukunft 33 Dolmetsch50 Dreierlei27 Einsiedeln Abbey 60 Engimatt63 Fabric Frontline 50 Fata Morgana 52 Felsenegg Lookout 13 FIFA World Football Museum 38 Fischstube29 Flea Market Kanzlei 40 Fork & Bottle 21 Foxtrail - Scavenger Hunt 56 Franz Carl Weber 48, 58 Frauenbadi (river baths) 11 Frau Gerolds Garten 13 Fraumünster35 Gamper Bar 32 GANT45 gaymeboys.com online magazine62 Gelateria di Berna 14

Gellner & Friends 52 Gemeinschaftszentren (community centres) 58 George Bar & Grill 26 Giacometti murals 36 Glassblowing Factory - Glasi Hergiswil60 Glatt - Your First Shopping Destination46 Gleis 9 34 Globus44 Glockenhof63 Haus Hiltl 24 Heaven62 Hornegg27 Hotel Rivington & Sons 31 Hottingen64 Huusbeiz28 Il Giglio 23 Jade33 Jao Praya 34 Jelmoli45 Josefswiese58 Kafi für Dich 59 Kaufleuten Terrasse 13 Kindercity58 Kunsthaus39 Kurz Jewellery and Watches52 Läderach Chocolatier Suisse44 Lady's First design hotel 65 Lago14 Lake Zurich Cruises 36 Le Dézaley 23 Le Muh 34 Les Ambassadeurs 53 Les Halles 26 LGBT+ Helpline 62 Lotti28 lululemon47 Maison Manesse 22 Männerzone62 Mascotte33 Meng Cutlery 51 Mère Catherine 21 messer-scharf51 MFO-Park38 Milchbar30 Mogli Chinderlade 58 Mohrenkopf28 Montblack32 Nagasui20 National Museum (Landesmuseum)40 Nonam40 Och Sport 47 Ona Poké 25 Ooki25 Orell Füssli - The Bookshop 44 Osswald48 Palais Kraft 64 Park Hyatt Zurich 63

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Partime53 Petra's Tip Top Bar 62 Piazza26 Pier 7 14 Pile of Books 44 Pinko45 Pretôt Delikatessen 50 Primitivo13 Public lake baths Mythenquai 58 Rage62 Rec Rec 44 Rheinfall - Europe's tallest waterfall61 Rheinfelder Bierhalle 28 RiffRaff17 Rigi - Mountain with a view61 Rolli's Steakhouse 34 Rosenhofmarkt40 Rosso24 Schnupf27 Schweizer Finanzmuseum (Finance Museum) 40 Schweizer Heimatwerk 51 Seebad Enge 11 Seebad Utoquai (lake pool) 12 Seerose29 Sihlcity46 Sihlpost8 Sphères30 Sprüngli Café 30 Stefi Talman 48 Storchen Zürich 63 Stories of the Old Town Guided walk 41 St. Peter 37 Strandbad Tiefenbrunnen 12 Summergarte14 Sweet Basil 20 Swiss Casinos Zürich 32

Swiss Shop 1291 51 TA-BOU48 Teddy's Souvenir-Shop 51 Teuscher Confiserie 44 The Alehouse 31 The Bite 21 the Gallery 44 The Ghost Walk of Zurich 41 The Giacomettis 38 The Zurich Experience City Tour41 tibits24 Tissot Boutique 53 Titlis - Engelberg 61 Tobelhof28 Tritt-Käse50 Uetliberg36 Unterer Letten 12 Vainard53 Vapiano24 Victorinox Flagship Store 51 Villa & Park Patumbah 38 Wasserkirche37 Weinschenke32 Wellenberg65 Widder Bar 31 Wildnispark Zürich 58 xess + baba 50 Yooji's Bahnhofstrasse 25 Youth Hostel 65 zämä46 Zeughauskeller29 Ziegelhütte34 Zum Gaul 14 Zum Grünen Glas 22 Zunfthaus zur Waag 22 Zurich Zoo 59

FEATURES INDEX Adult entertainment Breakfast Casino Cheese restaurants Lake Zurich Language smarts More for less with the Zürich Card National holidays Swiss cuisine Taxi smarts Tax free shopping The Giacomettis Tourist Information Useful Zurich apps Waterside restaurants

32 30 32 23 36 8 39 8 26 6 52 38 9 7 29

August – September 2018 69


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