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Maps Restaurants CafĂŠs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Events Hotels

Zurich June - July 2017

Urban Summer Fun

Open-air bars, swimming spots and popular squares

Zurich People

Meet gin distiller Oscar Martin

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Contents

Arriving & Getting Around

6

City Basics

8

History

11

Summertime

12

Open-air bars, river baths and hikes

Zurich people 16

In summer, Zurich’s citizens flock to the water, like here at Oberer Letten. Read all about swimming places and open-air Zurich Tourism bars on p. 12.

Gin distiller Oscar Martins reveals his Zurich

Zurich Nord

Culture & Events 18

Restaurants and bars in the north of the city

Concerts, shows and exhibitions

Sightseeing

Restaurants

Churches, murals and museums

21

Fine dining, cheesy treats and much more

Cafés

31

Chocolate, coffee and conversation

Nightlife

37 38

Queer Zurich

45

Shopping

46

Fancy fashion and Swiss design 33

Bars, pubs and clubs

Luxury fashion

52

Watches & Jewellery

54

Leisure

58

Laser tag, escape rooms and zoos

Zurich for kids

59

Major fun for minor citizens

Day trips

60

Natural highlights and cultural heritage

Hotels

62

Directory

65

Maps & Index For two years Oscar Martin and his three partners have been producing Turicum Gin, the only spirit that’s distilled within city limits. In our interview he reveals his favourite bars, restaurants and Nadine Kägi hangouts. Advertisement

66-68 69 70

City map Index Public transport map Advertisement

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June - July 2017

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Foreword While a trip to Zurich is a worthwhile endeavour all year round, it’s the summer season when this Swiss gem offers up some unexpected experiences. One of these is having a refreshing dip in the River Limmat right in the city centre. With pristine water and free facilities offered by the city, this is authentic urban summer fun that other cities can only dream about. But that’s only the tip of the iceberg. Many of these delightful swimming areas turn into lively open-air bars in the evenings, perfect for mingling and cocktail sipping. Other outdoor hotspots include squares like Idaplatz or Hechtplatz that exude a Mediterranean vibe on a hot summer day, when people flock to them for rounds of pétanque and drinks. Find our favourite bars and swimming places in our Summertime chapter on p. 12. And if the weather lets you down, which occasionally happens north of the Alps, Zurich has other attractions and distractions for all tastes including dozens of museums ranging from world renowned art at the Kunsthaus to sports memorabilia at the FIFA World Football Museum (see p. 40). We hope you have a great time in summery Zurich with this essential guide to the city.

Publisher pocket publishing GmbH Wuhrstrasse 15, 8003 Zürich tel. (+41) 32 510 85 76 zurich@inyourpocket​​​​​​​​​​​.com www.inyourpocket.ch Member of Zürich Tourism / Spirit Club Yearly print run: 180 000 (6 x 30 000) ISSN 1663-9944 © pocket publishing GmbH 2017 Editorial Editors Lukas Füglister, Roman Wasik, Chris Young, Mārtiņš Zaprauskis; Research MBS-crew; Layout & Maps Tomáš Haman; Photos Zurich Tourism: Caroline Minjolle (CM), Bruno Macor (BM), Markus Bühler (MB), Gaetan Bally (GB), Zurich In Your Pocket (ZIYP) Cover © Zurich Tourism Sales & Circulation General Manager Lukas Füglister Sales Manager Susi Haefeli, tel. (+41) 32 511 28 68, susi.haefeli@inyourpocket.com Ad rates at www.inyourpocket.ch, closing date next issue: July 11, 2017

COVER STORY

Copyright notice & Editor’s note Text and maps copyright pocket publishing GmbH (unless otherwise stated). Photos copyright photographers. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

This issue’s cover offers a bird’s-eye view of Zürich West, the former industrial area of the city, which has experienced massive construction over the last decade. The Prime Tower, Switzerland’s tallest building, dominates the view, but at the foot of this colossus are happening summer bars and open-air restaurants.

ABOUT IYP DUTCH CARIBBEAN ESTONIA RUSSIA

LATVIA LITHUANIA

NORTHERN IRELAND IRELAND

BELARUS NETHERLANDS BELGIUM

POLAND UKRAINE

GERMANY CZECH REPUBLIC

AUSTRIA HUNGARY ROMANIA SLOVENIA CROATIA ITALY BOSNIA SERBIA BULGARIA MONTENEGRO FYR MACEDONIA ALBANIA GREECE

SWITZERLAND

GEORGIA

AUSTRALIA SOUTH AFRICA

4 Zurich In Your Pocket

In Your Pocket, the world‘s leading publisher of locally-produced city guides since 1992, recently launched a brand new smartphone app: In Your Pocket City Essentials. Featuring only handpicked venues and sights alongside essential travel information, these city guides have been carefully crafted by our local editors and include only the places they are happy to recommend. The app - available on both iOS and Android - is free, and works offline. Go to iyp.me/app on your smartphone to download it. To keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, follow us on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). zurich.inyourpocket.com


MY LITTLE PIECE OF SWITZERLAND TO GO.

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Arriving & Getting Around ARRIVING BY PLANE

ARRIVING BY BUS

Zurich International Airport (ZRH) lies 13 kilometres north of the city centre in Kloten and handles around 700 flights a day going to over 170 destinations worldwide. You can find ATMs and switzerlandinfo desks at Arrival 1 and Arrival 2 just after you pass customs. There you can find free copies of Zurich In Your Pocket. There is a big public shopping area with most shops open from 08:00 - 21:00 (groceries from 06:00 - 23:00) and a free Wi-fi for the first 120 minutes, just connect your device to ’ZurichAirport’.

Buses from many European countries arrive at the bus station (Bus Terminal Sihlquai, F‑10), two minutes walk north from the main train station (close to track 18). There are no domestic long-distance coaches. Zurich sightseeing buses start here as well.

ARRIVING BY CAR The Swiss highways A1, A2, A3 and A4 lead from all directions to Zurich and if you follow the signs to Zurich City the city centre is quite easy to reach. But parking is scarce and very expensive. For overnight parking you can try to find a slot in the so-called blue zone in residential areas - parking there is free from 19:00 - 08:00, indicate your arrival time on your parking disk. Driving in Switzerland is generally easy. If you’re using the motorways you have to buy a vignette for 40Sfr. Remember that trams always have right of way, as well as pedestrians on zebra-crossings without traffic lights.

Trams from two different eras meet on Quaibrücke.

PD

To get to town: The easiest and fastest way to get to and from the airport is by train. Catch a train at the underground train station near terminals 1 and 2 - if the sign on the platform reads Zürich HB (HB = Hauptbahnhof = main station), it’s the right train. Up to ten trains leave an hour and the journey takes roughly ten minutes. Tickets can be bought at the counters or at the ticket machines (switch them to English on the first screen) next to the stairs leading down to the platforms. A ticket for an adult is 6.80Sfr and valid for one hour in the whole city (3 zones). If you plan to do more travelling by public transport, make it a 24-hour ticket for just twice the price or consider buying a ZürichCARD (see p. 41). A taxi ride to central Zurich costs around 60Sfr. Official taxi stands are just outside Arrivals 1 and 2. Tram N°10 takes you from the airport via Oerlikon to Zurich main station as well. The journey takes 37 minutes, same tickets as for the trains are valid.

ARRIVING BY TRAIN Zurich’s main train station, referred to by locals as HB (short for Hauptbahnhof, say haa-bay), is right in the centre of the city. All international and domestic trains leave and arrive here. From the platforms just follow the herd towards the main hall, where you will find the main exit towards the city centre, the ticket offices and the Tourist Information (see p. 10). Trams, buses and taxis leave just outside the station. At the ticket office in the main hall you can buy train tickets (also available at the many ticket machines), tickets for public transport in Zurich and also change money. For time tables and tickets refer to www.sbb.ch or call (+41) 900 300 300 (1.19Sfr/min) or download the app ‘SBB Mobile’ to your smartphone. 6 Zurich In Your Pocket

The legal blood alcohol limit for drivers is 0.05%, which should allow you to have roughly one glass of beer before ­driving. The standard speed limit is 50km/h in urban areas, 80km/h outside towns and 120km/h on motorways. In residential zones in Zurich, the speed limit is often 30km/h.

TAXI SMARTS Taxis in Zurich are in general clean, safe, reliable - and expensive. It‘s usually easy to get one, even in rush hours. The city sets the following maximum prices for taxis: initial fee 8Sfr, 5Sfr per kilometre, 80Sfr per hour. The actual fees have to be displayed on a sticker on the door of the car. In theory, there is free competition, but actually almost only two prices exist: the maximum fee and the lower one most companies charge (incl. the two listed below): initial fee (Basis on the sticker) 6Sfr, 3.80Sfr per kilometre (Distanz), 69Sfr per hour (Wartezeit). When taking a taxi from a stand, check the prices on their door and take the cheapest one available. Yes, you are free to take any taxi on a stand and they are obliged to take you even for short rides. Taxi drivers have to and usually do use their metres. You‘ll find taxis at official taxi stands, those often being the expensive ones. Especially at the main train station there are often no cheap taxis available. You can hail taxis from the streets as well. The ridesharing service Uber also operates in Zurich. You can order your private driver easily over an app on your smartphone. Fares are usually significantly cheaper than standard taxi fares (initial fee 3-6Sfr, 1.35 - 3.60Sfr per kilometre, 0.30 - 0.60Sfr per minute, higher if demand is higher). Find more information on www.uber.com. TAXI 444Qtel. (+41) 44 444 44 44, www.taxi444.ch. TAXI 7x7Qtel. (+41) 44 777 77 77, www.7x7.ch. zurich.inyourpocket.com


Arriving & Getting Around Fines are high and yes, Switzerland has agreements with many European countries to make sure you pay the fine even if you have a foreign number plate. You may use your home driving license in Switzerland as long as it is valid.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT City transport Zurich’s public transport network includes trams, buses, local trains and even ships on the lake and the river. The ticket system is fairly simple: the regional network is divided into zones. You don’t buy tickets for a trip, but rather for a zone. The network of the city of Zurich is zone number 110 (see map p. 70). Tickets are valid in the chosen zones on all kinds of transportation. For ships on Lake Zurich and the River Limmat a 5Sfr. supplement to any valid ticket is required. Send a text message from your mobile with the word ‘ZSG-SZ’ to 388 to purchase the supplement by phone (5Sfr. per message). A day pass for the city (zone 110) valid for 24 hours will cost you 8.80Sfr, a single ticket valid for one hour 4.40Sfr. Children up to five travel for free, 6 - 16 yearolds pay the so-called half-fare (which is actually 3.10Sfr). These tickets can be purchased at the ticket machines you find at almost every stop (most take credit cards). Note that Uetliberg and the airport are not within zone 110. If you get caught without a valid ticket, you’ll be fined 90Sfr. For more advice on public transport go to the VBZ Ticketerias situated at larger tram stops throughout the city. Another option is the ZürichCARD (24Sfr/24hrs, 48Sfr/72hrs), which is valid for zone 110 as well as between the airport and the city and it also gives you free admission to many museums. The ZürichCARD is available at most ticket machines, VBZ Ticketerias and at the Tourist Information. See p. 39 for more information. Public transport in Zurich runs roughly from 05:00 - 00:30. There are night buses all night from Friday to Saturday and from Saturday to Sunday to all parts of the town. Most of them start at Bellevue and pass by Central and Escher-Wyss Platz. They require a 5Sfr supplement to any valid ticket. Send a text message from your mobile with the word ’NZ’ to 988 to purchase the supplement by phone. Trains The train network is best for getting around Switzerland quickly and in comfort. For timetables visit www.sbb.ch. Tickets are sold at vending machines and at the counters in the main hall of Zurich’s main train station.

BICYCLES ZÜRI ROLLT - BIKES FOR FREE Bikes to borrow for free - all you need is identification and 20Sfr as a deposit. The provisional Velostation Süd is located in containers close to track 3, just outside the station. The northern one is across the road from track 18. In summer there are five additional stations (Globus, Bellevue, Bahnhof Enge, Bahnhof Altstetten, Bahnhof Hardbrücke).QF‑11, Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 43 288 34 45, www.zuerirollt. ch. Open 08:00 - 21:30, summer stations 09:00 - 21:30.

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City Basics BASIC DATA Area Switzerland: 41285 km² Zurich (Canton): 1729 km² Zurich (City): 92 km² Population Switzerland: 8 million Zurich (city): 405,000 Official languages Switzerland: German, French, Italian, Romansh Zurich: German Local time Central European (GMT+1h)

CUSTOMS Switzerland is not a member of the European customs union. On the one hand that gives you the opportunity to buy real tax-free goods at airports when you are travelling from and to Switzerland. On the other hand there are tight restrictions on the goods you can take free of customs duty from Switzerland to your country. For EU-countries the following customs and tax allowances apply (for other countries check with the according customs authorities):

DRINKING The drinking age in Switzerland is 16 for wine and beer and 18 for spirits and alcopops. The standard sizes for beer are the 0.3 litre Stange (pronounce: shtang-eh) and the 0.5 litre Grosses (gro-sus). The long-standing medium-scale brewers are increasingly getting competition from innovative local brewers. Check out Sprint, Paul, Chopfab or Appenzeller for instance. Swiss wines are also not to be underestimated. While the best may come from further south, you’ll find some very good Blauburgunders (red) and Riesling Sylvaners (white) from the Zurich region.

ELECTRICITY Electricity in Switzerland is 230 V, 50 Hz AC. Plug sockets are round and take three round pins - they can take Europlugs with two pins. If you are coming from the US, UK or Ireland you definitely need an adaptor - as well as from many other countries.

HEALTH & EMERGENCY Emergency telephone numbers (operators usually speak basic English): Ambulance: 144 Police: 117 Fire brigade: 118 If you need medical attention, there are several walk-in medical centres, like Permanence at the main railway station (facing Bahnhofstrasse), where you just pull a ticket and wait your turn (+41) 44 215 44 44, Bahnhofplatz 15, open 07:00 - 22:00) or mediX (+41) 44 298 50 50, Badenerstrasse 41, open 07:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 18:00). Zurich also has three public hospitals with walk-in emergency units which are open 24 hours a day for urgent matters. EMERGENCY UNIT UNIVERSITÄTSSPITAL QH‑11, Rämistrasse 100, 8ETH/Universitätsspital, tel. (+41) 44 255 11 11. Open 24 hrs.

USEFUL ZURICH APPS The Cassiopeia pedestrian bridge on the western shore of Lake ZIYP Zurich.

Tobacco: 200 (50 to some countries) cigarettes or 100 (20) cigarillos or 50 (10) cigars or 250 (50) g of smoking tobacco. Alcohol: 1 litre of spirits over 22% vol or 2 litres of spirits with less than 22% vol, 4 litres of still wine, 16 litres of beer. Other goods: Max value of all goods: 430 euros for air travellers and 300 euros for other travellers. Goods over these limits must be declared when entering an EU-country, additional taxes and VAT may apply. In Switzerland there is duty-free shopping for arriving passengers at airports. 8 Zurich In Your Pocket

Our own app, In Your Pocket City Essentials, features only our favourite places in Zurich (and many other cities). Just as useful is the map, which is also available offline. It’s available for free on both iOS and Android. To download, simply go to iyp.me/app on your smartphone or scan the QR code on the front cover of this guide. The free app ZVV-Fahrplan provides real time doorto-door timetable information for all public transport within the ZVV network in the canton of Zurich. It also tells you where the nearest stop is, and how to get from A to B. And it’s available in English. With the free ZVV-Tickets app you can buy tickets on the fly, quickly and easily (App store and Google Play). zurich.inyourpocket.com


City Basics LANGUAGE SMARTS Here are some typical Swiss German words - it will be always appreciated if you use a few Swiss words. The ‘r‘ in Swiss German is rolled, the ‘ch’ is pronounced like in the Scottish loch. Mind your throat. Hello (formal)

Grüezi

(groo-e-tsi)

Goodbye (formal)

Adieu

(as in French)

Thank you

Merci

(mersi)

Sorry!

Entschuldigung!

(ent-shooldi-goong)

Excuse me!

Exgüsi!

(ex-gewsi)

Switzerland

D’Schwyz

(t’shviiits)

Cheers!

Zum Wohl!

(tsoom vol)

Zurich

Züri

(tsoori)

The best Zurich has to offer in one great app

EMERGENCY UNIT STADTSPITAL TRIEMLI QBirmensdorferstrasse 497, 8Triemli, tel. (+41) 44 466 11 11. Open 24 hrs. EMERGENCY UNIT STADTSPITAL WAID QC‑4, Tièchestrasse 99, 8Bucheggplatz, tel. (+41) 44 366 20 55. Open 24 hrs. Pharmacies To find out where the next pharmacy (Apotheke in German) on duty is, call (+41) 900 55 35 55 (1.50 Sfr/min). The pharmacy at Bellevue is always open 24 hrs (Theaterstrasse 14, (+41) 44 266 62 22).

LANGUAGE Switzerland has four official languages: German (spoken by 64%), French (20%), Italian (6.5%) and Romansh (0.5%). Zurich lies in the German speaking part of the country, where people speak a German dialect, so called Swiss German or Schwyzerdütsch. Be it among friends, at work or when dealing with the authorities, people speak dialect. However, Swiss people use standard German, so-called Hochdeutsch, when writing and speaking at school.

MAIL & PHONE Post: Swiss post is generally reliable and also can take care of all your financial transactions. The Sihlpost is the one with the longest opening hours (see below). Dialling: Switzerland’s calling code is +41. Zurich’s code is (0)44 or (0)43. We list the country code before all telephone numbers in parentheses. Of course you only have to use this if you are dialling from abroad. If you are already in Switzerland, just ignore the (+41) prefix, dial 0 and then the nine-digit number. SIHLPOST Zurich‘s central post office, open until late. Take a ticket and wait for your turn. QE‑11, Kasernenstrasse 97, 8Sihlpost, tel. (+41) 848 888 888. Open 06:30 - 22:30, Sat 06:30 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:30. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

City Essentials Only our favourite places Works offline, incl. maps Free download Incl. dozens of other cities www.iyp.me/app

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

June - July 2017

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City Basics RELIGION

NATIONAL HOLIDAYS January 1 January 2 March 30, 2018 April 2, 2018 April 16, 2018 May 1 May 10, 2018 June 5, 2017 August 1 September 12, 2017 December 25

New Year Berchtold Day (local) Good Friday Easter Monday Sechseläuten (Zurich only) Labour Day (Zurich only) Ascension Whit Monday National Holiday Knabenschiessen (Zurich only) Christmas

MONEY The currency and legal tender of Switzerland is the Swiss franc (Sfr), which is divided in 100 rappen. There are banknotes of 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 1000 francs. The coins in use are 1, 2 and 5 francs as well as 5, 10, 20 and 50 rappen.You can change your money at the SBB change at the main railway station or any of the banks. Or just withdraw Swiss francs with your Maestro or your Plus card from one of the ubiquitous ATMs. Credit cards are widely accepted - both in shops and restaurants. Service is always included. At a restaurant however, if you were happy with the service, leave 5-10% of the bill as a tip.

The Swiss are traditionally either Roman Catholic (42%) or Protestant (35%). The largest (and quite new) minority religious community are Muslims (4%). Zurich is traditionally Protestant, due to the ardent reformator Zwingli who put an end to partying here in the 16th century. But his grip has loosened somewhat in recent decades.

SAFETY Zurich is a safe city, and in fact there is no no-go area, even for single travellers at night. Be on guard against pickpockets just as in any European city.

SMOKING The legal age for smoking is 16. Smoking in public buildings and transport is illegal. However, restaurants and bars are allowed to have a separate smoking room (fumoir).

VISAS For a stay of up to three months, many foreigners simply need a passport or an ID card to enter Switzerland. Even though not a member of the European Union, Switzerland is a member of the Schengen Agreement. As a result a Schengen visa is valid for Switzerland as well. Always check these details with a Swiss embassy or consulate.

TOURIST INFORMATION

Early morning calm at the River at Schipfe.

Zurich Tourism (BM)

POLITICS The Swiss like to consider their country the home of direct democracy and citizens here are regularly asked to take a stand on national issues. The two chambers of parliament are (mainly) elected in a proportional voting system and the seven-member government appointed by parliament always includes representatives of all of the four or five major parties. Switzerland is a federal republic consisting of 26 cantons, once sovereign states which retain some independence and have their own constitutions, parliaments and governments. Bern is the capital and the seat of the parliament and the federal authorities. Due to the understanding of political independence many locals favour, Switzerland is not a member of the EU. 10 Zurich In Your Pocket

The Tourist Information run by Zurich Tourism is conveniently located in the main hall of the main train station. This is a one-stop solution for all the information you might be missing - and much more. For personal advice at the counter, take a ticket and wait your turn. There are some pads for you to browse and check out the many offers like tours and venues and you can pick up leaflets and a city map. But they don’t just have advice, they also offer the following services. They... • will book city tours and excursions • sell tickets for public transport, incl. the Swiss Travel Pass • sell the ZürichCARD (see p. 41 for more infos) • can make hotel reservations • also sell tickets for events and museums, souvenirs and gift vouchers Last but not least you can always pick up the latest copy of Zurich In Your Pocket here - for free, of course. QG-11, Main hall of the main train station. Open 08:00 - 20:30, Sun 08:30 - 18:30.

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History XVI Century Huldrych Zwingli, priest at the Grossmünster, was a major critic of mercenary service. But he had a lot more to say and became the initiator of the Reformation in Zurich from 1520 on. The Reformation meant an end to all frivolous behaviour - drinking, prostitution and actually most fun was forbidden or strictly regulated.

NAPOLEON CAUSES A BOTHER XVI - XVIII Century During the 16th and 17th Centuries Zurich’s wealth and influence increased. Among the intellectuals of the time were the educational reformer Heinrich Pestalozzi or the painter Johann Heinrich Füssli, whose work you’ll find today in the Kunsthaus. In 1798 Zurich lost its independence as Napoleon took over, transforming the Swiss Confederacy into the Helvetic Republic for a brief five years. Zurich’s somewhat grim reformator Huldrych Zwingli.

ZIYP

ROMANS AND SCHWYZERDÜÜTSCH

RAILWAYS AND A STRIKE

100BC - X Century Around 15 BC the Romans established a military base at the site of today’s Lindenhof where you can find a copy of the Roman tomb stone mentioning Turicum, the word from which Zurich derives. Roman rule ended around 400 AD and nobody really has any idea what went on in Zurich for the next few centuries. One change was the arrival of the Germanic tribe of the Allemanni, who brought with them the language that was to become today’s Swiss German (Schwyzerdüütsch).

XIX - XX Century Modern-day Switzerland was founded in 1848 as a federation. The year before, the first railway line in Switzerland was opened. Railways were the business Alfred Escher was in. He dominated Zurich and Swiss politics for the next few decades. His statue can be found just in front of the main train station. Switzerland remained neutral during the First World War and was refuge to the artists who started the Dada movement in Zurich. The war exacerbated the poverty of the working classes and in 1918 a socialist committee called a general strike. Many of the committee’s demands were later fulfilled, though not the demand for the right of women to vote, which was not introduced until 1971!

ZURICH IN WOMEN’S HANDS

THE RÉDUIT AND THE WAR

XII - XIV Century In the 13th Century Zurich became an imperial city, answering only to the emperor of the Holy Roman Empire. Zurich was now headed by a woman the abbess of the Fraumünster abbey. In 1336 an uprising of Zurich’s craftsmen made the newly founded guilds the foundation of Zurich’s political structure. Many of the guild houses, still in use today, are now also restaurants like the Zunfthaus Zur Schmiden or the Zunfthaus am Neumarkt (emblem of the guild of the shoemakers on the left).

XX Century During most of the Second World War Switzerland, formally neutral, was totally surrounded by the Axis powers, making it difficult to import food and other goods. General Guisan prepared for a military attack by literally hollowing out the Alps, envisaging a guerrilla war from the mountains, the socalled réduit strategy.

ZURICH GOES SWISS…  AND PROTESTANT XIV - XVI Century In 1351 Zurich joined ’Switzerland’, which had existed as a treaty since 1291. This however didn’t stop the city waging war against fellow cantons, such as against Schwyz. Soon the city ruled over lands around Lake Zurich and north all the way to the river Rhine. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

ZURICH TODAY XX - XXI Century After the war Switzerland’s economy boomed and mass immigration from Southern Europe set in, while culturally and politically Switzerland remained very conservative. In 1968 and 1980 youth movements clashed with police, but also brought new cultural life to Zurich. Today Zurich is still a major financial centre and has lost the conservative reputation. It has become popular as a place to live for highlyskilled workers from across Europe. This has made the lack of affordable apartments one of the major topics in Zurich today. June - July 2017

11


Summertime

Seebad Enge: a perfect spot to have a drink on a hot summer’s day. | Zurich Tourism

Summer is definitely a pleasant time to visit Zurich, even though it isn’t always just endless sunshine and flowers. Summer is not only the warmest, but also the wettest season in the city. Much of the rain comes as thunderstorms, and luckily they pass by as fast as they appear. There are plenty of great places to go on a hot day, especially swimming spots, open-air bars and squares. The numbers next to each venue refer to the map on p. 14.

SWIMMING & RELAXING With its lake and the River Limmat, Zurich offers plenty of grand opportunities for a swim. Yes, the water in both is cleaner than in most European cities and fine for swimming. Besides the possibility of just jumping into the lake anywhere (watch out for ships and boats), the city has 11 official outdoor swimming baths on the lake or the river, many with facilities such as cloakrooms, toilets, kiosks, etc. For many of them an entrance fee must be paid (8Sfr adults, 6Sfr from 16 - 20 years, 4Sfr kids), but the ones on the river are usually free. In the morning (07:00/09:00 - 11:00) some are open no matter the weather. If it’s sunny closing time is usually 20:00. After that many of the baths turn into lively open-air bars. We list our favourite places by the water below. Remember swimming in the lake and especially the river is only for good swimmers. Bear in mind that there is not necessarily a lifeguard present even in official swimming 12 Zurich In Your Pocket

facilities. If you’re swimming in the lake it’s advisable to wear a coloured bathing cap so ships can see you better. Swimming in the River Limmat between the lake and the Oberer Letten river swimming baths (close to the main station) is forbidden, as there is busy boat and ship traffic here. 1 FRAUENBADI (RIVER BATHS) You can find these nostalgic river baths in Art Nouveau style between Bürkliplatz and Münsterplatz (women only). The baths feature two pools, one for swimmers and one for non-swimmers and two sunbathing areas, one not visible from the outside and one on the pier towards the river. Wed, Thu and Sun after 20:00 the Frauenbadi turns into a bar - for both sexes. You have to leave your shoes at the entrance. Wed there are cultural happenings.QG‑14, Stadthausquai, 8Bürkliplatz, tel. (+41) 44 211 95 92, www.barfussbar.ch. Open 09:00 - 19:30 (until Sept 17, 2017), Wed & Thu bar until 24:00, Sun evening open-air disco (16Sfr). Admission 8/6/4Sfr. 2 OBERER LETTEN (RIVER BATHS) The river area around the Letten hydro-electric power plant is one of the coolest places to have a swim in summer - or to just hang out with the city’s young and fancy crowd. Just behind the National Museum next to the main train station, the River Limmat flows into a canal feeding the power plant. On the left side of the canal (when you’re looking downstream) are the swimming facilities, in a concrete structure by the water (access from Kornhausbrücke, close to Limmatplatz). Entrance is free. There’s a changing room, lockers, a lifeguard

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Summertime at certain times (when the yellow flag is up) and sunbathing areas, one of which is women-only. At the Panama Bar (www.panamabar.ch) you can have a snack and a drink overlooking the river (open in the evening as well). Just across the canal there is a beach volleyball court and a popular sunbathing area as well as the Primitivo Bar which serves drinks and food until midnight. If you walk down the path on the right-hand side of the river from the main station you’ll reach them soon enough. You can also swim down the canal – just jump in and float towards the swimming facilities. Remember: good swimmers only!QE‑8, Lettensteg 10, 8Bahnhofquai/Limmatplatz, tel. (+41) 44 362 92 00. Changing rooms, etc. open 09:00 - 20:00 (until Sept 11, 2017), bars until 24:00. Admission free. 3 SEEBAD ENGE (LAKE POOL) The Enge lake baths are close to the Enge port on the southern side of the lake. It has a mixed and a women-only area, both with a pool structure which is in the lake filled with lake water and access to the lake proper. There are also three marked swimming lanes in the lake. The Enge pool is not recommended for kids. The Enge turns into a lively bar and restaurant in the evening - nice for having a beer with some meat from the barbecue while you dangle your feet in the water and enjoy the light lake breeze.QF‑16, Mythenquai 9, 8Rentenanstalt, tel. (+41) 44 201 38 89, www.tonttu.ch. In 2017 open until Sept 2017, 08:00 - 20:00 (09:00 - 19:00 in May & Sept), bar until 24:00. 8Sfr.

ON THE LAKE On a hot summer day, there’s nothing better than a cruise on the lake with a fresh breeze, so here then are some options. For more cruises and round trips on offer by Lake Zurich Navigation Company ZSG see p. 39. BOAT RENTALS & BURGER CRUISE Why not rent a pedalo or a rowboat and take a cruise on Lake Zurich to enjoy the sun? Or maybe something a little fancy, like a burger cruise? BOOTSVERMIETUNG ENGEQF‑16, Mythenquai 25, tel. (+41) 44 211 22 62, www.bootsvermietung -zuerich.ch. Open 10:00 - sunset. LAGOQG‑15, Utoquai 6, tel. (+41) 44 262 22 20, www.lago-zuerich.ch. Open weather permitting. BUILD YOUR BURGER CRUISE Are you a burger fan? Then why not combine your passion for beef with a cruise on Lake Zurich? On this evening cruise you can choose your favourite bun, meat patty, sauce, etc. to create the best burger imaginable, all while enjoying the impressive views on Lake Zurich. QStarts every Tuesday19:15 from Bürkliplatz. Book in advance on www.build-your-burger-cruise.ch or at the port. Cruise 25/12.50Sfr, burgers from 25Sfr. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

The nostalgic Art Nouveau river baths tempt swimmers - if you’re Zurich Tourism female, that is. Women only! 4 WERDINSEL (RIVER POOL AU-HÖNGG) The Werdinsel is an island in the River Limmat in the district of Höngg, a few kilometres down the river. On sunny summer days it’s a blissful recreation area. Have a swim in the canal (good swimmers only!), sunbathe on the meadow or let your kids play in the paddling pool. There are lockers, toilets, barbecue areas to grill your own meat and a small restaurant. If you walk further west on the island, the nature gets a little wilder. On summer weekends it’s crowded with families and folks having outdoor grill parties on the river bank. The most western part of the island is a nudist area and is also frequented by the gay community, but not exclusively. To get to the island take tram N°4 in the direction of Werdhölzli and get off at Tüffenwies.QWerdinsel, 8Tüffenwies, tel. (+41) 44 341 71 93. Facilities open 09:00 - 20:00 (until Sept 11, 2017). Admission free.

OPEN-AIR BARS & RESTAURANTS Many Zurich restaurants have pleasant outdoor seating areas, and Zurich residents really love to eat or have a drink under the open sky during the summer months. Most bars and restaurants we list below are solely openair establishments. That means they usually close when it’s raining. Many of the lake and river baths also turn into lively bars in the evening (check out Oberer Letten and Enge lake pool; see Swimming and relaxing on the water’s edge). 5 HECHTPLATZ SOMMERGARTEN Hechtplatz is a square in the Niederdorf district close to Bellevue. Every summer it turns into a lively open-air restaurant and bar, serving Vietnamese food in cooperation with Restaurant Saigon and tasty drinks until midnight. In the evening this is definitely one of the city centre’s summer hot spots with the city’s hipsters and wannabes populating the whole square. Get yourself a beer or a spicy dish, sit down and enjoy the Zurich summer breeze. QG‑14, Hechtplatz 7, 8Bellevue, www.hechtplatz. ch. From the end of June until the end of August, daily 11:30 - 24:00.

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7 KLEINE FREIHEIT The ‘little freedom’ is an adorable outdoor café/bar at Weinbergpark, a small park just a few footsteps from Central. Take a seat on the comfy chairs or at the tables located next to the container/small pavillion that serves as a bar and enjoy a cup of coffee or a local Paul beer. As stomach stuffers they serve sandwiches and mezze platters, Middle Eastern tapas that is. It’s just the perfect place to while away some time on a sunny day. You can also grab some books or board games from the container. QG‑10, Weinbergstrasse 30F1, 8Haldenegg, www. kleinefreiheit.ch. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. On balmy evenings open until 24:00.

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6 FRAU GEROLDS GARTEN Yet another attraction has sprouted up on the urban wasteland next to Hardbrücke station - the open-air bar and restaurant Frau Gerolds Garten which sprawls over some 20,000m². Old shipping containers house the two bars and the kitchen and provide a terrace where you can sip on a drink and enjoy the view of the sea of railway tracks and beyond. There really is a garden too, including vegetables which apparently are used in the kitchen. From the couple of daily changing menus on offer we chose a very decent crayfish salad with thousand-island dressing. There is also a charcoal grill with sausages and a tent providing dry seating even in the rain.QB‑8, Geroldstrasse 23, 8Hardbrücke, www. geroldgarten.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00.

14 Zurich In Your Pocket

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8 PRIMITIVO (OBERER LETTEN) Primitivo is the summer institution at Oberer Letten. Urbanistas flock here on warm summer nights to take a swim in the river and then drink at the bar. Shipping containers house the bar, as well as the kitchen which doles out tasty burgers, grilled sausages and fries and salads. This is as Mediterranean as Zurich gets - if the weather plays along, that is. Not only a good choice in the evening, but perfect for relaxing and reading in the afternoon too.QF‑9, Kloster-Fahr-Weg, www.primitivo.ch. Open daily 10:00 24:00, weather permitting.

At Frau Gerold an urban wasteland has turned into an open-air bar. PD

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Summertime 9 RIMINI - MÄNNERBAD SCHANZENGRABEN Set in the Männerbad, an open-air swimming place for men only during daytime, the Rimini bar is a buzzing open-air bar in the evening. The illuminated trees of the neighbouring Old Botanical Garden make it look like a little oasis right in the centre of the city. Hidden behind the former Zurich stock exchange, it’s a meeting point for business men and women and the city centre’s hip crowd. But don’t worry: you will fit in here, whether in business clothes or in shorts and flip-flops. For snacks there’s pizza. QE‑13, Badweg 10, 8Bahnhof Selnau, www.rimini.ch. Open 19:15 - 24:00, Fri 18:45 - 24:00, Sat 14:00 - 24:00, weather permitting. 10 SUMMERGARTE Summergarte is an open-air restaurant with an alternative feel and awesome meat and fish from the charcoal grill in the courtyard of the old arsenal. Simply order your food and drinks at the bar-trailer and take a seat. They will call your name when your food is ready. We don’t usually rave about the food we encounter, but the lamb and the salmon here were grilled to perfection and the different salads that came along with them were really excellent. Warmly recommended! If you don’t mind sitting with other people at long tables, that is.QD‑11, Zeughaushof / Zeughausstrasse, 8Sihlpost, tel. (+41) 77 455 12 90, www.summergarte.ch. Open 11:30 - 24:00 (food - 14:00 and starting 18:30, grill evening only), Sat & Sun 16:00 24:00. Mixed grill platters around 30Sfr per person. 11 XENIX BAR - KANZLEI Just next to Helvetiaplatz in the Langstrasse district, the gravel square around the old Kanzlei school house is flooded by an urban crowd every night who while away their evenings with a cold beer from Xenix, a bar and cinema situated in a wooden building next to the school. And there’s food too! The outdoor bar has to close at midnight, but from Thu - Sat you can buy drinks inside until 01:30 and try to smuggle them outside - which is usually no problem. This is where urban and multicultural Zurich meets.QD‑11, Kanzleistrasse 52, 8Helvetiaplatz, www. xenix.ch. Open 16:00 - 00:30, Thu, Fri 16:00 - 01:30, Sat 11:30 - 01:30, Sun 11:30 - 00:30.

WALKS & HEIGHTS Zurich is surrounded by wooded hills, so why not climb one to take in the views? You can either hike up or let the train take you there - or even the cable car. An enjoyable endeavour either way. FELSENEGG LOOKOUT This short trip takes you up to one of the best lookout points in the Zurich area: Felsenegg. Getting up there is fun by taking the only aerial cable car operating in the canton of Zurich. First, take the S4 train toward Langnau-Gattikon and get off after 15 minutes in Adliswil. From there it’s a well sign-posted 10-minute walk to the valley station of the aerial cable car, which leaves every 15 minutes for Felsenegg (runs 08:05 22:05, Sun 08:05 - 20:05). Once you’re up there, refresh yourself in the restaurant and of course take in the view of the city, the lake and the Alps. There are also many options for a walk: follow the panorama trail to Uetliberg (90 minutes), from where the S10 train will get you back to Zurich city.QZelgstrasse 80, Adliswil, tel. (+41) 44 710 73 30, www.laf.ch. From Zurich a ticket for zones 110, 150, 155 is needed. Tickets valid for two hours: 8.80/4.40Sfr. Just for the cable car: 4.40/3.10Sfr. For the round trip the Albis daypass is your best option: 17.60/8.80Sfr. Trip to Felsenegg and Uetliberg is included with the ZürichCARD.

LOVE IS IN

T HE A I R

SQUARES TO HANG OUT ON 12 IDAPLATZ A little off the beaten tourist track, Idaplatz is one of our favourite squares in town. It’s located within walking distance of the eastern end of Langstrasse (tram No 2 toward Farbhof, get off at Lochergut). A few trees and benches makes it a relaxing spot without any traffic. In the evening people from the neighbourhood come out for a drink or to play pétanque on the sandy surface of the square. For drinks and food, there are two bars and a lovely restaurant with outdoor seating. For food we recommend Restaurant Piazza (Idaplatz 2, +41 44 558 95 29). If you are just after a cold beer, you can get cheap ones at the kiosk. QA‑12, 8Lochergut.

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www.laf.ch June - July 2017

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Š Sandra Marusic Photography

DJ turned gin distiller Since the summer of 2015, Oscar Martin and his three partners have produced a handcrafted gin known as Turicum, the only spirit that’s distilled within Zurich city limits. Today they produce 2,500 bottles per month in their small distillery in Albisrieden. We asked Oscar about his favourite bars and restaurants in Zurich, what he loves most about the city and also what annoys him. 16 Zurich In Your Pocket

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Zurich people Oscar, before we talk about Zurich, we have one question about your company. How did you get the crazy idea of producing gin? Well, believe it or not, it was actually a drunken idea over a few gin tonics. I worked regularly as a DJ in a bar where Merlin and Oliver, two of the other founders, worked as barkeepers. And at the end of our shifts we often sat down together and talked about everything under the sun. Soon we realised we share a passion for gin. One day they told me that they actually went to the UK recently to visit some gin distilleries and that they even did a workshop on how to distill gin. Full of enthusiasm, we decided that producing a local gin would be a cool thing and that we should sit down together soon… After a few months, we actually sat together and they showed me some gin samples they had made. I loved it and so we decided to actually realise our drunken idea. Once we started, it all went pretty quick: only half a year later, we bottled our first gin. Wow. So Zurich is a good environment to realise such drunken ideas? It wasn’t easy, especially with all those regulations required by the authorities. But Zurich people like local products and are also willing to pay for it, if the quality is high.

Clubbing? They say I am too old for that, but I still go anyway. So what makes Zurich unique in your opinion? What do you miss when you’re not in Zurich? The best thing about Zurich is its small size: it’s a culturally diverse city, but it’s tight, everything is always within reach. In Zurich I can go from one club to the next by bike within five minutes! That’s also why I think the different scenes mix better here than in other cities. You’ll see alternative people sitting at ease next to bankers. And Zurich is really safe. It’s very unlikely that you’ll face any problems, even if you walk drunk down Langstrasse at six in the morning. And does anything annoy you about Zurich? Many Zurich people are real know-it-alls, and they like to complain. That’s something I really don’t like. If, for example, a new bar opens, you’ll find people that diss the place from the first minute if everything isn’t perfect from the start. In other Swiss cities I find people are much more relaxed. If people would be a bit more chilled out, Zurich would be perfect. What are your favourite restaurants then? One of my all-time favourites is Tre Fratelli in Wipkingen. It’s a little off the beaten track but serves excellent food and has a lovely garden, a really nice place. I also like the Rosso next to Hardbrücke station for Italian cuisine. Or the recently opened Co Chin Chin, with its original Vietnamese fare. And where do you go for drinks and wild parties? One of the bars I like best is Baltho in Niederdorf. They have a good choice of spirits, drinks and cocktails in a relaxed atmosphere. But I like to go to many different places. I like, facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

for example, the bar at Bebek for its location in the gallery above the restaurant. Or Kaufleuten Terrasse in summer. For cocktails Old Crow in the old town or Tales are a safe bet. You asked if I still go clubbing? They say I’m too old for that, but I still go anyway. At Zukunft and Frida’s Büxe I usually like the electronic sounds and the crowd. At Plaza they also have a regular programme that attracts not only youngsters, but a crowd my age. How do you fight a hangover after a party night? Ha, I try not to get one in the first place. But yes, it happens, and honestly, I don’t have a recipe to fight it really. Actually it’s best to cure it at my parents. When my mother cooks a strong soup for me, that definitely helps. And when I’m really hungover, I just stay home to cure it. It’s probably the only time, when I really stay at home. What does your typical weekend look like? I don’t really have a prototypical weekend, but if I have time I like to relax at the river or the lake, for example, at Wipkinger Park. I’m often in District 5 around Escher Wyss Platz. I have family and friends there. Or I go with a bunch of relatives, a portable grill and some drinks, gin, of course, and some ice cubes to the meadow at the lake at Rentenanstalt (Arboretum) to enjoy the day. Last question, Oscar. Zurich is a really expensive city, especially for foreigners. Do you have any tips on how to have a great time without spending a lot of money? You can get one of the best deals in the city at India Street Food take away at Langstrasse 114. They sell huge portions of delicious and all-fresh kottu roti for only 12Sfr. For drinks, the cheapest is to buy your own and hang out on one of the squares or at the lake. Sechseläutenplatz at Bellevue with its metal chairs is a good choice. They also sell chilled white wine with cups at the subterranean grocery store at Globus just off the square. Get one, hunt for some chairs on the square and enjoy your day.

OSCAR MARTIN He is one of the four founders of Turicum Gin (Turicum was Zurich’s latin name), the only spirit that is distilled within Zurich city limits. They began Turicum in 2015 and today they produce around 2,500 bottles per month. In their distillery in Albisrieden they do everything by hand, from distilling and bottling to labelling and distribution. The 38-year-old is also cofounder of the Campbell & Jones branding agency. Turicum’s next projects include a workshop in their distillery where you can create your very own gin. You can find Turicum Gin in many bars around the city as well as at some grocery stores like Globus. His favourite places: Tre Fratelli (p.30), Rosso (p.25), Co Chin Chin (Gasometerstr. 7, D-9), Baltho (Marktgasse 17, G-12), Bebek (p.28), Kaufleuten Terrasse (Talacker 42, F-13), Old Crow, (p.34), Zukunft (Dienerstr. 33, D-11), Frieda’s Büxe (p.36), Plaza (p.36). June - July 2017

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Culture & Events Zurich offers a rich bouquet of culture, with its opera and ballet of (at least) European renown and a packed programme of excellent classical concerts in the Tonhalle and elsewhere. Pop and rock stars almost always stop in Zurich when touring the continent and Zurich also has a vibrant theatre scene, but unfortunately very few productions in English. Events are listed in the following categories: classical concerts, exhibitions, festivals and rock & pop concerts. Within the sections it’s ordered by date. Of course there are many more events than we can list, so we recommend www.zueritipp.ch for more information.

OPERA & BALLET The Zurich Opera is a magnificent building near the lake shore built in 1891 by Austrian architects Ferdinand Fellner and Hermann Helmer. Check out the programme on their website. You can also buy tickets on the opera’s webpage, by phone or at the ticket office on site. Plays are usually with German and English subtitles. The shows of the Zurich Ballet Company directed by Christian Spuck take place here too.QF‑5, Opernhaus, Falkenstrasse 1, 8Opernhaus/Stadelhofen, tel. (+41) 44 268 66 66, www.opernhaus.ch.

24.06 » ZURICH CHAMBER ORCHESTRA

CLASSICAL CONCERTS 12.06 19:30 » LECTURE-RECITAL / SIR ANDRÁS SCHIFF

Piano and lecture: Sir András Schiff. Works by Johann Sebastian Bach.QF‑14, Tonhalle, Claridenstrasse 7, 8Bürkliplatz, 24-112Sfr, www.tonhalle-orchester.ch.

Klaus Maria Brandauer. Conductor: Willi Zimmermann; violin: Daniel Hope. Works by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. QF‑14, Tonhalle, Claridenstrasse 7, 8Bürkliplatz, 16105Sfr, www.zko.ch.

28.06 - 30.06 » TONHALLE ORCHESTRA: ORCHESTERMAGIE

Conductor: Philippe Herreweghe; piano: Martin Helmchen. Works by Johann Sebastian Bach, Felix Mendelssohn and Franz Schubert.QF‑14, Tonhalle, Claridenstrasse 7, 8Bürkliplatz, 25-125Sfr, www.tonhalle-orchester.ch. 19:30.

05.07 - 06.07 » TONHALLE ORCHESTRA: ORCHESTERMAGIE

Conductor: Giovanni Antonini; violin: Julia Becker. Works by Joseph Haydn and Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart.QF‑14, Tonhalle, Claridenstrasse 7, 8Bürkliplatz. 19:30.

EXHIBITIONS Lionel Bringuier conducts the Tonhalle Orchestra.

PD

15.06 19:30 » TONHALLE ORCHESTRA: ORCHESTERMAGIE

Conductor: Lionel Bringuier; violin: Leonidas Kavakos Péter. Works by Peter Eötvös, Igor Stravinsky and Dmitri Shostakovich.QF‑14, Tonhalle, Claridenstrasse 7, 8Bürkliplatz, 25-125Sfr, www.tonhalle-orchester.ch.

19.05 - 10.10 » JEWELLERY. MATERIALS CRAFT ART

Whether as an ornament, memento, status symbol or work of art – jewellery was one of the first forms of expression known to man and has always been a key component of all cultures. Jewellery is made from a wide variety of materials depending on the era, fashion or function, ranging from natural materials like shells and animal bones to gemstones, metals and plastics. The exhibition Jewellery.

Stressed from work or travelling? Treat yourself to a MASSAGE. In-clinic massage, or treatment in your hotel-room. Weekdays and Week-ends, 8 a.m. - 10 p.m. Email: zurichmassageclinic@bluewin.ch Phone: +41 (0)43 810 80 02 www.zurichmassageclinic.com 18 Zurich In Your Pocket

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Culture & Events 23.05 - 17.09 » THE MANY FACES OF AN IDEAL - WOMEN IN INDIAN PAINTINGS

PD

materials craft art presents materials and crafts along with the core themes in jewellery such as love, rebellion and tradition that always create a link with the wearer. There is also a section dedicated to 20th-century jewellery, which illustrates how jewellery is being rediscovered as a form of artistic expression: it features items from the Art Nouveau movement and contemporary jewellery artists such as Johanna Dahm and Bernhard Schobinger.QF‑10, National Museum (Landesmuseum), Museumstrasse 2, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 58 466 65 11, 10/8Sfr, www.nationalmuseum.ch. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.

19.05 - 27.08 » MEXICAN GRAPHIC ART

Who said the Kunsthaus only displays Swiss art? A collection of Mexican graphic art donated to Kunsthaus Zürich by the Swiss photographer Armin Haab is comprised of works by 65 artists who were born or lived in Mexico. This exhibition presents selected pieces from this collection, emphasising important prints produced in a variety of techniques from the late 19th century to the 1970s. Many of these works on paper are being shown for the first time in Switzerland. They touch on issues such as poverty and wealth, love and cruelty and the poetry and hardships of everyday life. In addition to prints by José Guadalupe Posada, there are characteristic Realist works by Leopoldo Méndez, Diego Rivera and David Alfaro Siqueiros, to name a few.QH‑13, Kunsthaus, Heimplatz 1, 8Kunsthaus, tel. (+41) 44 253 84 84, 23/18Sfr, www.kunsthaus.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.

THE CONSTRUCTIVIST

SPIDERJune 1st to September 3rd, 2017

@InYourPocket 01.06 - 03.09 » THE CONSTRUCTIVIST SPIDER-MAN: TOMÁS SARACENO

With his spatial installations at the intersection between art, architecture and the natural sciences, the Argentinian Tomás Saraceno asks questions about future forms of ‘more - than - human’ dwelling. His artistic research can be seen as an invitation to reconsider ecological and social relationships. Part of this exhibition is dedicated to Saraceno’s latest works ‘Aerocene’ the era of air. Various floating sculptures are on display that do not rely on fossil fuels, inert gases or solar cells, and, in various configurations, could fly around the world solely on the basis of thermal lift. Another part is dedicated to spiders and web structures. Saraceno, together with a diverse community of scientists, has accumulated over a decade’s worth of research into arachnids. At Haus Konstruktiv he presents his installations ‘Arachno Concert’ in which a spider is situated in a cubic frame. The spider’s own activity causes its web to vibrate and these vibrations are simultaneously turned into sound via a microphone.QE‑12, Haus Konstruktiv, Selnaustrasse 25, 8Stauffacher, tel. (+41) 44 217 70 80, 16/12Sfr, www.hauskonstruktiv.ch. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Wed 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Ruf Lanz

Tomás Saraceno’s floating sculptures will be on show at Haus Konstruktiv.

This exhibition features around 60 miniatures on the theme of ‘Women in Indian Paintings’. Dating from the 15th to the 19th centuries, they originate from various workshops at locations ranging from the foothills of the Himalayas to the Deccan Plateau. Indian painters portrayed their female subjects with great attention to detail, dressing them in magnificent robes and endowing them with delicate features. Much more than simply images taken from real life, these women represent ideals of beauty. The theme of ‘Women in Art’ also features in the museum’s rooms of Japanese and Chinese painting as well as in the Africa collection in the ‘Emerald’ extension.QD‑16, Museum Rietberg, Gablerstrasse 15, 8Museum Rietberg, tel. (+41) 44 206 31 31, 25/20Sfr, www.rietberg.ch. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.

AN

Tomás Saraceno and his fascinating web structures: in a large solo exhibition for the first time in Switzerland. hauskonstruktiv.ch

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Culture & Events FESTIVALS 29.06 - 09.07 » STREET FOOD FESTIVAL

The 2017 edition of Zurich’s Street Food Festival will take place at the former Hardturm stadium. This time the emphasis will be on food trucks. Check www.street-food -festival.ch for more up-to-date information as it becomes available.QFormer Stadium Hardturm, Hardturmstrasse 269, 8Hardturm, www.street-food-festival.ch.

ROCK & POP CONCERTS 14.06 17:30 » LOUDFEST: GOOD CHARLOTTE, SLEEPING WITH SIRENS & MANY MORE

The pop-punk band Good Charlotte is back and they’ll be headlining Loudfest, where a handful of metal and hardcore bands will rock throughout the night.QE‑9, X-TRA, Limmatstrasse 118, 8Limmatplatz, 52Sfr, www.x-tra.ch.

CINEMAS Zurich has 16 cinemas, many of them with more than one screen and the large ones with up to 12 screens. Traditionally films in Switzerland are shown in their original language with German and French subtitles. But the big multiplex cinemas that have displaced some of the smaller ones in the last two decades have started to show more and more movies dubbed in German. In smaller cinemas you can still watch all movies in the original language – lots of them in English of course. They are marked with the letters Edf in the programmes (English with German (Deutsch) and French subtitles) a D (capital) indicates the movie is spoken in German.

14.06 20:00 » THE BEACH BOYS

The Beach Boys have been synonymous with everlasting summer for over half a century. Come get some good vibrations straight from the 1960s!QF-14, Kongresshaus, Gotthardstrasse 5, 8Bürkliplatz, tel. (+41) 44 206 36 36, www.allblues.ch.

26.06 - 27.06 » HANS ZIMMER

Hans Zimmer, one of Hollywood’s most sought-after composers, decided to go on a live tour for the first time in 2016. He and his fans loved it so much that he decided to do it again, but this time with his hits from the movies Pirates of the Caribbean, Gladiator, Lion King and many more. QI‑1, Hallenstadion, Wallisellenstrasse 45, 8Messe/ Hallenstadion, 80-150Sfr, www.hallenstadion.ch. 20:00.

05.07 20:00 » AEROSMITH

Aerosmith, the legendary rock band with frontman Steve Taylor, is on its farewell tour and will stop in Zurich for one last crazy show.QI‑1, Hallenstadion, Wallisellenstrasse 45, 8Messe/Hallenstadion, 135/150Sfr,

10.07 20:00 » GEORGE BENSON

How many jazz musicians can claim to have stormed the charts and stages around the world with a whole string of hits? Certainly not many. One of them is George Benson - on tour with his greatest hits.QF-14, Kongresshaus, Gotthardstrasse 5, 8Bürkliplatz, tel. (+41) 44 206 36 36.

ARTHOUSE MOVIE There are six Arthouse cinemas in Zurich, all situated in and around the Niederdorf part of the old town, most of them in old buildings with charm and style.QG‑13, Nägelihof 4, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 250 55 10, www.arthouse.ch. CORSO A four-screen multiplex at Bellevue. Screenings in the theatres holding between 120 and 750 spectators start in the afternoon. The Corso offers comfortable and modern seating. Mainly blockbuster movies in English language. To call it’s 1.50Sfr per call & min.QH‑14, Theaterstrasse 10, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) 900 556 789, www.kitag.ch. RIFFRAFF The RiffRaff is a lovely cinema with four screens just off Langstrasse - arthouse movies in original language, which is not necessarily English, are usually on the menu. If in doubt, ask at the cashier‘s. They also have two bars perfect for a drink before or after the movie. QD‑9, Neugasse 57, 8Limmatplatz, tel. (+41) 44 444 22 00, www.riffraff.ch. 20 Zurich In Your Pocket

Geroge Benson with his guitar.

PD

11.07 20:00 » STEVE WINWOOD

Steve Winwood, the former singer of The Spencer Davis Group, is on tour. To quote the lines he sang back in 1965: Keep on running! A soulful rock experience not to be missed.QF‑13, Kaufleuten, Pelikanplatz, 8Sihlstrasse, 80/120Sfr, www.allblues.ch.

12.07 19:30 » KURT VILE & THE VIOLATORS

Kurt Vile’s latest record b’lieve i’m goin down... may lack an optimistic title, but he definitely knows how to compose impressive melancholic songs. Expect songs about everyday life vocalised to a repetitively plucked guitar on the open-air stage at the lake.QRote Fabrik, Seestrasse 395, 8Post Wollishofen, 40Sfr, www.rotefabrik.ch. zurich.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants

Zurich has restaurants galore - like Mohrenkopf in Niederdorf (see p. 29). | PD

Zurich has around 2,000 restaurants, bars and takeaways. No wonder you can find almost any kind of food imaginable: from down-to-earth Swiss to traditional Vietnamese, from Lebanese to Japanese and back again. But today many restaurants also cook in a mélange, international style and are not easily categorized. Nevertheless we have tried. We list the places we recommend within any particular category. For lunch, lots of restaurants offer special deals, usually considerably cheaper. Note that many restaurants close their kitchens between roughly 14:00 and 17:30 and in the evening at 22:00 or 23:00. For the evening we recommend you book a table. For more suggestions see www.zurich.inyourpocket.com.

ASIAN BAN SONG THAI The Ban Song Thai sits in a small alley in the Niederdorf just under the Grossmünster church - and serves classic Thai food made from mostly organic ingredients and without any artificial flavour enhancers. Probably that‘s why the taste of the food here is authentic. On the menu there are soups, salads, fish, as well as rice- and Thai-noodle dishes and curries (even without coconut milk!). The Ban Song Thai has lots of fans in Zurich - that‘s why we recommend you book a table in advance. There is also a lunch buffet (all you can eat, 29Sfr).QG‑13, Kirchgasse 6, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 252 33 31, www.bansongthai.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:45, 18:00 - 23:30, Sat 18:00 - 23:30. Closed Mon, Sun, itchen open until 22:30. €€. J­A­B facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

LILY’S Freshly prepared Asian treats: from Thailand through Vietnam to China and Japan, and back to India. Not exactly the place for a long, cosy dinner with your friends but great for a quick, fresh and tasty meal - you’ll be seated on long benches in between other customers. If you get a seat close to the open kitchen you feel the heat when the chef flames some stuff in his wok. Try one of the curries Lily’s is famous for. No reservations.QD‑9, Langstrasse 197, 8Limmatplatz, tel. (+41) 44 440 18 85, www.lilys.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:30, kitchen open througout until 1 hour before closing tome. €. A­S WESLEY’S KITCHEN Wesley’s finally fills a gap in Zurich’s restaurant scene: genuine Chinese street food. He actually calls it Chinese tapas as you order different dishes on small plates. We had tasty deep fried crayfish in batter, spectacular chicken with ginger sauce, very thinly sliced spicy lamb and excellent Shanghai Bao dumplings, all of which are great little treats for your taste buds. The restaurant is tiny, so you’ll most likely be seated with other patrons, but in the summer you can also take advantage of the outdoor seating in the quiet backyard. It offers fixed menus for lunch and we recommend you call ahead for reservations. Wesley’s also operates a food truck at the main station close to track 18 and the Sihlquai tram stop.QE‑10, Josefstrasse 48, 8Museum für Gestaltung, tel. (+41) 44 542 88 91, www.wesleys-kitchen.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:30, 17:00 22:0, Sat 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. €€. A­B June - July 2017

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Restaurants CHEESE RESTAURANTS

SYMBOL & PRICE KEY A Credit cards accepted

X Smoker lounge

E Live music

J City centre location

8 Nearest tram station

N No credit cards

B Outside seating

C‑1 Map coordinates

€ €€ €€€ €€€€

most mains under 25Sfr most mains 25-40Sfr most mains 40-55Sfr most mains over 55Sfr

istock.com

The Swiss cheese specialities fondue and raclette originally come from the French-speaking areas of Switzerland. Fondue is basically a mix of melted cheese and white wine bubbling over a small burner which you dip bread cubes into, while raclette is pure melted cheese which is poured over boiled potatoes. The listed restaurants below are specialists. LE DÉZALEY For decades Le Dézaley has been dedicated to dishes from Vaud in western Switzerland. The fondue prepared according to a family recipe is very tasty and also comes in a version with morel mushrooms. A typical starter is airdried meat - or instead of fondue try one of the regional sausages.QG‑13, Römergasse 7/9, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 251 61 29, www.le-dezaley.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:30, 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun, kitchen open until 23:00. €€. J­A­B WALLISER KELLER The Hotel Zürcherhof’s restaurant brings the specialities from the mountainous southern canton of Wallis to town. There are raclette and eight different kinds of fondues on the menu – with extras ranging from pepper to garlic and mushrooms. Meat fondues are on offer too. We like the traditional cellar-style atmosphere with the modern touch here.QG‑12, Zähringerstrasse 21, 8Central, tel. (+41) 44 269 44 44, www.swissalpechuchi.ch. Open 11:30 - 13:30, 17:15 - 23:00, Sat, Sun closed. €€. J­A­B

BURGERS JACK & JO (EUROPAALLEE) Jack & Jo is in on a perplexing new trend: fast slow food. Or.. is it slow fast food? Basically it’s burgers, made from locally produced ingredients and home-made buns, served with organic fries and drinks presented in preserving jars, all in a modern but homely styled environment. The vegetarian burger with halloumi was solid, and if for you fennel rhymes with halloumi, this will suit you. The beef burger was more to our taste here. There is a huge salad bar and they do quesadillas and breakfasts too. Place your orders at the bar, a buzzer will tell you when they’re ready to pick up. Popular with students and the city’s hipsters.QE‑10, Gustav-Gull-Platz 2, 8Sihlpost/HB, tel. (+41) 44 542 88 99, www.jackandjo.ch. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 22:00, kitchen closes daily 22:00, Sun 21:00. €. J­A KORNER 14 different burgers are on offer at the Korner (including some for veggies). The two we had were a treat: the meat was still a little pink on the inside, soft and succulent. The fries were perhaps a tad overdone, but well seasoned. And did we mention we really like the simple interior with its parquet floor and high, period ceilings? This is no trashy burger joint. All ingredients here are local, the beef is from Swiss highland cattle - which may be why the burgers don’t come that cheap here.QE‑13, Gartenstrasse 10, 8Stockerstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 542 92 50, www.gourmetburger.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun, kitchen open until 22:00. €€. J­A­B THE BUTCHER It seems like Zurich can’t get enough of burgers in recent years, The Butcher being one of many openings. This one leans slightly more to the fast-food side, as the burgers come wrapped in paper, the salad in a plastic cup, but the nicely crafted interior with its wood and white tiling is inspired by a 19th-century deli or butcher. Our spicy burger with jalapenos was good, the meat tender and a little pink on the inside, the bun, however, a tad too fluffy for our taste. Service was quick and friendly.QG‑12, Stüssihofstatt 15, tel. (+41) 43 243 61 43, www.butcher.ch. Open 11:00 23:00, Sun 16:00 - 23:00. €. J­A­B

22 Zurich In Your Pocket

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Restaurants

Build-your-Burger Cruise

Why not do it your way? Every Tuesday until 29 August Choose from our selection of buns, sauces, toppings and side dishes and create your own delicious burger. Our insider tip – pulled pork! For those who like it meatless, we also offer burgers with fish or vegetables. Build-your-burger-cruise.ch

FINE DINING NEW ECCO Ecco at the Atlantis by Giardino Hotel is one of the most exquisite addresses in town. After all, it didn’t get its two Michelin stars by chance. While a live band plays at the bar, all of the real action is happening on the plates here. We chose six courses from the menu (you can order from three to eight for 150 - 235Sfr), but before we began our culinary journey we were greeted by three different amuse-bouches, one of them a phenomenal-tasting poached oyster (the cress as an add-on for the bread was left for us to be cut freshly on our own). Although we enjoyed all of the dishes, the highlight of the meal had to be the guinea fowl with carrot and cedar and after dessert we were sent off with some sweet farewells from the kitchen. In short, Chef Stefan Heilemann manages to produce authentic, refined cuisine while avoiding the pitfalls of creating something too chichi. Ecco is certainly a stunner for the senses where dining becomes an event, so be prepared to part with some of your hard-earned money, an act that you won’t regret.QDöltschiweg 234, 8Triemli, tel. (+41) 44 456 55 55, www.atlantisbygiardino.ch. Open 19:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Tue, last orders at 21:30, Sun 13:30. €€€€. A­B RISTORANTE BIANCHI The Bianchi is one of the city’s few dedicated fish restaurants. Despite the river Limmat flowing past almost in front of the restaurant, little of the fish is from there. That said, trout, facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

perch and others are from Swiss production and much of the rest is from sustainable catch or farming. Whole fish can be chosen from the iced display counter. With white tablecloths and a massive marble fountain, this is finedining al italiano, with all the little details to make you feel pampered: a welcome appetiser, a choice of breads and concentrated, generous staff. The cooking deserves equal praise, delicately balanced and never overly complicated. QG‑12, Limmatquai 82, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. (+41) 44 262 98 44, www.ristorante-bianchi.ch. Open 11:30 - 23:30, Sun 11:30 - 22:30, last orders 22:00, Sun 21:00. €€€. J­A­B

Refined design meets refined cuisine at Ecco.

PD

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Restaurants FRENCH LA CÔTE For decades this place has been really dedicated to meat. Their speciality is a so called charbonnade, thinly sliced beef you grill yourself on a small charcoal grill right on your table! If you think this is crazy - you’re right, it is. But it’s great fun too! Just make sure you don’t wear your best suit, as the air here is rather, ehm, grilly. With the charbonnade you get homemade sauces, some pickles, and some thin cut fries if you like. It’s all you can eat as long as the grill is hot enough - which on our visit was much longer than we could take. QB‑13, Aemtlerstrasse 26, 8Goldbrunnenplatz, tel. (+41) 44 241 91 91, www.restaurant-lacote.ch. Open 11:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (all you can eat charbonnade 54Sfr) €€€. A­B

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App MÈRE CATHERINE Mother Catherine’s menu majors in classics from Provence using plenty of fish, seafood, olives and rosemary. But she also does other French classics like onion soup or snails. Filled pasta like ravioles and cappelacci, usually homemade, are also standard features. The interior with uneven walls, dark tables and chequered tablecloths is pleasant and the kitchen reliable. The tiny bar Le Philosophe next door is good for a quiet drink.QG‑13, Nägelihof 3, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 250 59 40, www.commercio.ch. Open 11:30 - 24:00, kitchen open throughout until 22:15. €€. J­A­B

GUILD HOUSES Zurich’s guilds or zünfte are prestigious men’s clubs today, and many own a handsome mediaeval or early modern guild house in the old town where they meet. Quite a few of these guild houses are also restaurants which cultivate a traditional, refined cuisine.

A charcoal grill right on your table - charbonnade at La Côte.

ZIYP

ZUM GRÜNEN GLAS A little bit off the beaten track on the upper edge of Niederdorf, the Zum Grünen Glas offers notable Mediterranean-style cuisine in the noble atmosphere of an old guild house. The classic here is the beef tartar - it’s served either with basil and olives or Asian-style with wasabi and mango chutney. And yes, it’s very tasty. You will find fish, meat and some typical Zurich dishes like geschnetzeltes and bratwurst on the menu as well.QG‑13, Untere Zäune 15, 8Neumarkt, tel. (+41) 44 251 65 04, www.gruenesglas.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 17:30 - 23:00, Sat 17:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun, kitchen open until 22:00. €€. J­A­B ZUNFTHAUS ZUR ZIMMERLEUTEN The Zimmerleuten is one of the best-known guild houses in town. The Küferstube on the ground floor serves solid Swiss fare all day: classics like geschnetzeltes, bratwurst with rösti and some fish options too. In winter they serve a fondue outdoors on their terrace right on Limmatquai. The restaurant on the first floor is their pride: the atmosphere there is more up-market and the food on offer a touch more sophisticated (e.g. geschnetzeltes with filet).QG‑13, Limmatquai 40, tel. (+41) 44 250 53 63, www.zunfthaus -zimmerleuten.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 23:30, kitchen closes 22:00. Küferstube open 11:30 - 23:30 (kitchen closes 22:30). €€€. J­A­B

THE CLASSIC ITALIAN RESTAURANT

Mühlebachstrasse 2 CH-8008 Zurich T +41 44 250 59 30

24 Zurich In Your Pocket

commercio.ch arthouse.ch warm meals all day

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Restaurants ITALIAN

VEGETARIAN & VEGAN

Just like mamma used to make! Italian dining at Commercio.

PD

ROSSO Some claim this restaurant makes the best pizzas in town. And well, they really are outstanding - very thin and with only a little topping - the real Italian style from the south. The rest of the menu can also keep up with the pizzas try the veal roast for example. Service is probably not the most pro-active and fast, but if you bring some patience, you definitely can spend a remarkable evening in this old industry hall next to the Hardbrücke railway station. Rosso is always very busy - try to get a reservation on its website. If not you can still test your luck - or your patience - waiting for a table at the bar.QB‑8, Geroldstrasse 31, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 43 818 22 54, www.restaurant-rosso.ch. Open 11:30 - 00:30, Sat, Sun 17:00 - 00:30. €€. A­B

HILTL DACHTERRASSE Hiltl is Zurich’s ever-expanding vegetarian institution. On the sheltered rooftop terrace of the fashion house PKZ women, the rich plant life and garden-style chairs make for a Mediterranean feel. Grab some vegetarian tatar, salads, chutneys and sweets from their rather amazing buffet and enjoy that break on your shopping tour.QF‑11, Bahnhofstrasse 88, 8Bahnhofstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 888 88 00, www.hiltl.ch. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. J­A­ BS TIBITS The bounteous vegetarian buffet is the focal point of tibits - where everybody queues up to choose from around 40 home-made salads, hot daily specials, soups, sandwiches and sweets. It’s more than plain tasty, believe us. tibits is very popular for lunch, dinner or coffee with all kinds of people. Sister restaurant ‘tibits im NZZ bistro’ around the corner at Falkenstrasse 12, (+41) 44 260 32 12 (Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00). QH‑15, Seefeldstrasse 2, 8Opernhaus, tel. (+41) 44 260 32 22, www.tibits.ch. Open 06:30 - 23:30, Fri 06:30 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:30, Food served until 30 min before closing. (buffet, 4.20Sfr (take away 3.70Sfr) per 100 grams). J­A­B­S W

COMMERCIO While the heyday of Italian cinema may be over, this small ristorante brings cinema and italianità together in the most charming way. It stays lively well into the night, thanks also to the visitors of the Arthouse studio cinemas right next door. Surrounded by Art Deco elements, guests squeeze into the slightly tight seats to enjoy a plate of pasta, something the Commercio has got off to a fine art.QH‑14, Mühlebachstrasse 2, 8Stadelhofen, tel. (+41) 44 250 59 30, www.commercio.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00, kitchen open throughout until 23:00. €€. J­A­B

GETTING THE BEST OUT OF FRUIT AND VEGETABLES.

NEAR THE GROSSMÜNSTER

Nägelihof 3 / 8001 Zurich T +41 44 250 59 40 / commercio.ch / arthouse.ch

facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

Vegetarian & Vegan Restaurant Bar Take Away Catering Seefeldstr.2|Falkenstr.12 next to the Opera House, Zurich www.tibits.ch|www.tibits.co.uk

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Restaurants NEW SO PIZZA The pizza at SO is thin, crispy and really tasty with only a little topping added in what we would call true Neapolitan fashion. This simplicity is also evident in its unique concept. Take as many slices as you like including a bowl of salad to share for 29Sfr (19Sfr at lunchtime). The waiters bring you slices of the latest pizza fresh from the oven, but if you don’t like what’s on the tray, simply wait a few minutes until the the next pizza is ready. We especially loved the white pizza (senza tomato sauce) with olives, cherry tomatoes and ruccola, but, to be honest, all were delicious. Unusually, the pizza isn’t baked in a traditional wood-fired oven, but rather in a unique gas oven with an open flame. Bear in mind that you’ll have to leave your table after two hours of non-stop eating.QC‑11, Langstrasse 20, 8Bezirksgebäude, tel. (+41) 43 322 00 70, www.so.pizza. Open 12:00 - 14:00, 18:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri 12:00 - 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. €. A VAPIANO At Vapiano, the food is prepared as you watch. You order right from the chefs at the open kitchen, and once your freshly made pasta, salad or antipasto (all prepared on site) is ready, you take it straight to your seat. If you order a pizza, you’ll get a pager which will buzz for your attention when it comes out of the oven. All your orders are conveniently charged to a plastic card, you pay when you leave. The Vapiano concept is a success in 28 countries, and we do like the relaxed atmosphere and the fresh food à la minute. In Zurich you’ll find a second Vapiano at Sihlcity shopping centre (Kalanderplatz 9).QH‑14, Rämistrasse 8, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) 44 252 00 62, www.ch.vapiano.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 22:00, kitchen open all day, last orders 30 minutes before closing time. €. J­A­B

INTERNATIONAL GARTENHOF An honest, straightforward restaurant with no frills whatsoever. Their weekly changing menu offers solid fare with a little bit of innovation. For the main course there are

usually fish, meat and vegetarian options. There are three red and three white wines sold by the glass - the usually very attentive waiters simply bring the bottle to your table. You drink as much as you like and pay what you’ve drunk. If only everything in life was as simple!QC‑12, Gartenhofstrasse 1, 8Werd, tel. (+41) 43 266 63 63, www.gartenhof.net. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 18:00 - 24:00. €€. A­B

Mixing styles and textures at LaSalle.

PD

LASALLE What strikes you first is the architecture: a clean glass box set within the steel girders and peeling paint of a one-time factory hall with a sumptuous white chandelier hanging from the steel and glass ceiling, a touch of extravagance within the cool functionalism. LaSalle successfully combines the elegance of white tablecloths with an urban relaxedness. The menu is also a combination, of Italian and French influences with the occasional detour, like the octopus-papaya salad. Fish is a standard feature, as are the wonderfully tender home-made ravioli or the liver of veal which was cooked to perfection. Excellent cuisine in a refreshing and elegant setting – definitely recommended.QB‑7, Schiffbaustrasse 4, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 258 70 71, www.lasalle-restaurant.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu 11:00 - 01:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 17:00 - 02:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. (29 - 57Sfr). €€. A­B­

JAPANESE

Bellevue · Rämistr. 8 / Sihlcity · Kalanderplatz Tel.: 044 252 00 62

www.vapiano.ch

26 Zurich In Your Pocket

Tel.: 044 201 15 25

OOKI Although we have to admit that we haven’t been to Japan recently, the simple style of Ooki is what we imagine a trendy venue in Tokyo would look like, especially the bright wood panelling, the Japanese characters and the assorted knick-knacks. Japanese chef Ooki and his son specialise in ramen and udon noodle soups, kareeraisu (Japanese curry) and donburimono (rice dishes with toppings). We began our culinary journey with some ippinryouri, which are like tapas, and then moved on to gyoza dumplings, zurich.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants which were a real treat. The soups were also perfectly prepared, especially the thick udon noodles, which were remarkable. To finish off the experience we ordered ice cream served in a tasty rice dough. Reservations are essential, but if you can’t get one, try dropping by late and you might just find an empty seat or two.QB‑12, Zentralstrasse 53, 8Schmiede Wiedikon, tel. (+41) 44 461 15 86, www.ooki.tokyo. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00, Sun 18:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. €€. A SALA OF TOKYO It calls itself ‘Japan‘s Food Embassy N°1’ - and that‘s what Sala of Tokyo is, at least in Zurich. The Sala‘s meals with 9 courses (140Sfr) will convince you that there’s more to Japanese cuisine than just sushi. Surprises are included as the menu states no more than ‘something from the sea’ or ‘something fried’. We can definitely recommend this surprise journey into Japanese cuisine. If you don’t want to eat from the grill at your table, try not to get seated in the sankaiyaki part of the restaurant. Leg room is a bit short there. If you want to go for the extravagant try the celebrated Wagyu beef from Kobe cattle (180Sfr).QF‑10, Limmatstrasse 29, 8Sihlquai/Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 44 271 52 90, www.sala-of-tokyo.ch. Open 11:45 - 14:30, 18:00 23:00, Sat 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Sun, last orders 21:30. Closed for holidays July 23 - August 13, 2017. €€€. J­A­B

Moules et Frites

The lively, yet laid-back bustle at Les Halles.

PD

MEDITERRANEAN LES HALLES This garage-style restaurant offers mostly organic food from around the Mediterranean with a particularly French touch. The ever fresh moules et frites (mussels with French fries) are what a lot of people come here for, or the tasty beef tartar. The restaurant works like a market hall: you place your order at the kitchen and it‘s served to your table. It’s always busy and loud - so come here rather for the outstanding fresh food and the industrial style than for a quiet evening with your significant other.QB‑8, Pfingstweidstrasse 6, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 273 11 25, www.les-halles.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun, kitchen open until 13:45/21:45, snacks througout. €€. A­B

c´est chic.

Mediterranean bar/restaurant/market hall, located at the heart of the culture and night-life district of Zurich West. Reservations: 044-273 11 25 or www.les-halles.ch facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

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Restaurants SWISS CUISINE What the Swiss like to eat at home and when out is ­ heavily influenced by their neighbours’ cuisine, especially the Italians. But what is real Swiss cuisine? Most Swiss would probably say: käsefondue (cheese fondue), a hot soup of cheese and white wine eaten by dunking cubes of bread in it. Delicious, but the smell can take getting used to. Raclette is another cheese speciality, melted cheese on potatoes served with different pickles and sides. Würste or sausages are also very Swiss, the bratwurst (usually veal) and cervelat (pork) being the most common. Züri gschnätzlets is a traditional Zurich dish, thin strips of veal cooked in a cream sauce, often with mushrooms. This is often served with rösti, a cake of fried grated potatoes, a bit like Spanish tortilla but also on the list of Swiss traditionals. Switzerland also has an impressive range of breads to go with the cheeses, e.g. the rich zopf (plaited loaf ) is a favourite for Sunday breakfasts. Fondue chinoise and fondue bourgignonne are not traditionally Swiss, strictly speaking, but these two meat fondues are very popular too. Both involve dipping meat into a pot, full of either hot broth (chinoise) or oil (bourgignonne) and then enjoying with a range of sauces and sides.

ORIENTAL BEBEK This restaurant is an architectural mezze platter: concrete walls, mosaic floors, high ceilings, chandeliers and a peekthrough window to the neighbouring tram shed. We love the mix of concrete and orient. The menu is dominated by food from Lebanon, Greece and Turkey. We tried the Langstrassenteller - and loved what we got: skewers of chicken and köfte, tabouleh, tzatziki and chilli potatoes, everything was excellent. The service is a bit nonchalant, but friendly.QB‑12, Badenerstrasse 171, 8Kalkbreite, tel. (+41) 44 297 11 00, www.bebek.ch. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri 07:00 - 01:00, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 08:00 24:00, kitchen open throughout until 23:00. €€. A­B MAISON BLUNT Located in a former garage, the Maison Blunt is a popular Moroccan restaurant. It’s split into two parts: the tea room where you can spend the whole day sitting on low chairs and sofas and the restaurant for lunch and dinner. Food here is excellent. We recommend the big mezze platter to taste lots of different oriental-style dishes like tabbouleh (bulgur wheat salad), hummus, and baked cheese together with the fabulous pita bread. Don‘t forget to order a glass of Moroccan red wine (yes, they do wine in Morocco!) and finish off with the trademark tea made with a generous sprig of fresh peppermint. Very popular for brunch on weekends.QD‑9, Gasometerstrasse 5, 8Limmatplatz, tel. (+41) 43 211 00 33, www.maison-blunt.ch. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 08:00 - 23:00, restaurant part open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 23:00, weekend 10:00 - 23:00. €€. A­B 28 Zurich In Your Pocket

STEAKS & BARBECUE BOHEMIA Bohemia’s waiters wear ties - and they’re not the only thing with style around here. The tiled floor and the crystal chandeliers give the Bohemia a distinguished atmosphere, drawing both business people and the city’s in-crowd. They mainly serve steaks from the wood-fire grill. Try their homemade sauces - we loved the just slightly sweet ketchup. The bar area at the front can get busy, so try to get a table in the quieter room at the back.QI‑15, Klosbachstrasse 2, 8Kreuzplatz, tel. (+41) 44 383 70 60, www.bohemia.ch. Open 06:45 - 24:00, Thu, Fri 06:45 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. €€€. A­B

Near Eastern tilework at the Maison Blunt.

PD

GAUCHO You just have to love the Gaucho - except if you’re vegetarian, perhaps. The small restaurant with its walls plastered with photos and dozens of framed paintings, pictures and other bits and pieces is just plain likeable. The Argentinian beef they major in comes straight from the charcoal grill, our entrecôte was tender and bursting with taste. The chimchurri sauce that accompanied it was genuine with loads of freshly chopped parsely. They import the beef themselves by the way, which probably explains the outstanding quality. Recommended!QC‑10, Nietengasse 18, 8Bäckeranlage, tel. (+41) 44 321 18 18, www.gaucho.ch. Open 11:30 14:00, 18:30 - 23:00, Sat 18:30 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Sun. A

SWISS As it’s sometimes hard to tell what Swiss cuisine really is (see box Swiss cuisine), we list some traditional restaurants here as well as some that interpret Swissness in a modern way. If you want to try the Swiss cheese specialities fondue and raclette, see the box above. We list the traditional Zurich beer halls in a seperate category overleaf. They serve generous helpings of earthy local food - definitely not a bad way to explore Swiss cuisine either. AU-GUST (WIDDER HOTEL) Black and white tiling, industrial style lamps and an open kitchen: the Au-Gust definitely looks stylish. But it’s not only looks - the food is a treat too. They major on meat, zurich.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants not on steaks like everyone else but on cold cuts, sausages, terrines, carpaccios and innards. Our fleischkäse (Swiss style meat loaf ) was bursting with flavour. We’re not usually passionate about innards, but the tripe Zurich style with its spicy sauce changed our minds on this one. No reservations - in case there is no space, you will simpy have to wait. But it’s worth it.QF‑12, Rennweg 1, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 224 28 28, www.au-gust.ch. Open 11:30 22:15, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:15, breakfast 06:30 - 10:30, Sat & Sun 06:30 - 11:00. J­A­B GAMPER The menu at the small and stylish Gamper usually only features a few dishes as everything here is reduced to the basics. And that’s definitely a good thing. The sweetbread with onion compote was a delight for the taste buds and the same can be said of the egg with gorgonzola, our other starter. The cheese was nearly a foam and tasted heavenly, while the local asparagus main course arrived crisp, just as we like it, and smothered in hollandaise sauce. The rhubarb mixed with a kind of meringue was the perfect finish to a delightful meal and the service was professional and attentive. The young team at Gamper certainly knows how to cook with seasonal, local ingredients and the use of a charcoal grill, which we could smell at our table, was a nice touch. No reservations possible.QC‑10, Nietengasse 1, 8Bäckeranlage, tel. (+41) 44 221 11 77, www.gamper -restaurant.ch. Open 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. €€. A­B

Au-Gust is all about looks, but the food is great, too.

PD

MOHRENKOPF This is a pleasant place in plain style for Swiss fare, coffee and snacks or breakfast in the Niederdorf area, frequented by tourists and locals alike. The menu offers classics like chalbsgschnäzlets (veal in bite-size pieces) with rösti (hash browns) as well as more unusual dishes like capuns, an Alpine speciality of sausage and dumpling wrapped in chard leaves. Try them, they’re a treat. If you fancy a sweet to round off the meal, try a mohrenkopf, a chocolate covered marshmallow that gave the restaurant its name. QG‑12, Niederdorfstrasse 31, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. (+41) 44 262 05 45, www.mohrenkopf.info. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00, kitchen open non-stop until 22:00. €€. J­A­B

niederdorfstrasse 31 — 8001 zürich

continuing a tradition

since 1981

www.mohrenkopf.info facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

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Restaurants TRE FRATELLI At the Tre Fratelli decoration is frugal and as the restaurant is made up of different rooms it feels a bit like you’re eating in someone’s flat. The cuisine is Swiss and innovative, they serve e.g. water buffalo (bred in Switzerland, not always available) and steaks of the black Gascon pork, with a tender but intensive taste. A bit more run-of-the-mill but also delicious is their meat loaf with mashed potatoes. The good food and the snug garden restaurant makes the extra travel worthwhile: from the centre bus N° 46 drops you off almost in front of the venue (stop Lettenstrasse).QE‑6, Nordstrasse 182, 8Schaffhauserplatz, tel. (+41) 44 363 33 03, www.trefratelli.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:30, 17:30 24:00, Sat 17:30 - 24:00. Closed Sun. €€€. A­B WIRTSCHAFT IM FRANZ If too much choice makes you nervous, the im Franz is what you’ve been looking for: you only have to choose between the vegetarian and the meat/fish menu in this restaurant. That’s the simple concept here. (If suddenly that’s too simple, you can swap some courses). Wooden tables, cyan coloured walls and deep black chairs make for a relaxed atmosphere. The food on offer is seasonal and of local origin, some compositions daring, but the quality extraordinary. And the service here is really outstanding. QB‑12, Bremgartnerstrasse 18, 8Bahnhof Wiedikon, tel. (+41) 43 558 44 22, www.wirtschaftimfranz.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon, Sun. 4-course menu around 90Sfr. A­B

NEW ZUM FINK Our evening at Fink was a great experience from A to Z. After being served a Bloody Mary mousse as an amusebouche, we quickly moved on to an outstanding asparagus salad that was so good, we nearly ordered a second as a main course. That, however, would have been a mistake, as the Babettli (an unusually lean cut of beef round close to a fillet, but not as tender) was remarkable, as was the breaded poached egg on potato foam. We finished with custard over rhubarb compote, a well-balanced combination of sweet and sour. The atmosphere at this small place is quite cosy and all are greeted with a warm welcome and exemplary service. Recommended.QD‑9, Josefstrasse 146, 8Quellenstrasse, tel. (+41) 43 321 32 16, www.zumfink.ch. Open 11:00 - 14:15, 17:45 - 23:30, Sat 17:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon, Sun. €€. A

Unassuming atomsphere and great food at Zum Fink.

PD

BEER HALLS Offers hearty traditional Swiss cuisine at affordable prices. Centrally located on Bahnhofstrasse at Paradeplatz.

open daily for reservations

30 Zurich In Your Pocket

11.30 – 23.00 +41 (0) 44 220 15 15 www.zeughauskeller.ch

WEISSER WIND This rustic tavern serves typical hearty Zurich fare like cordon bleu, geschnetzeltes, hörnli maccaroni with minced meat and the like - all in very solid quality. Beware of the devil’s noodles (teufelsnudeln) with beef cubes they really are hot, a challenge even for experienced chilli fans. Service is friendly and the beers come quickly - not a bad place for experiencing some local cuisine and charm. QG‑13, Oberdorfstrasse 20, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 251 18 45, www.weisserwind.ch. Open 11:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 23:00, Sat 17:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. €€. J ZEUGHAUSKELLER The Zeughauskeller (the arsenal) is one of Zurich’s biggest beer halls. Situated in a mediaeval arsenal it serves good solid traditional Swiss fare: generous helpings of meat, sausages, schnitzel and roast. Popular with tourists, locals and lads out for the night, it’s a place where it’s easy to get to know people, as you share the big tables with other guests. Old military devices standing around are there to remind you where you are. So don’t get too drunk, or you might end up getting conscripted.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 28a, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 220 15 15, www.zeughauskeller.ch. Open 11:30 - 23:00, Kitchen open until 22:00. €. J­A­B zurich.inyourpocket.com


Cafés Cafés in Zurich generally serve coffee Italian style (from ristretto to cappuccino) and many draw on the rich Swiss tradition of pastry and chocolate making. But there is no fixed definition of a café, most also serve alcoholic beverages, other snacks or even full meals and many double as bars in the evening rather than closing. BERNHARD BAR CAFE Decorated with stage props from the adjoining theatre of the same name, not to mention the opera (take a look at the operating room lamp over the bar), Bernhard is a snug place for a coffee break with some snacks or possibly even lunch or dinner. Try its Flammkuchen (thin Alsatian pizza), especially our favourite with four different kinds of cheeses. A daily, ever-changing menu is available for lunch and dinner and it also serves desserts. When the theatre breaks for intermission the place is abuzz with the lively conversations of culture aficionados.QH‑15, Sechseläutenplatz 1, 8Opernhaus, tel. (+41) 44 268 64 64, www.belcanto.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00. J­A BOVELLI Bovelli is a stylish café right in the city centre. Its high ceiling, elegant wooden tables and designer lamps make for a smart atmosphere. The drinks and the food on offer is written on the huge blackboard behind the bar. In addition to the myriad coffee variations and blends, it also has plenty of desserts and some snacks, but if you head over here later in the day for a break from shopping, you can try one of many tasty cocktails. In fact, the owners seem to have transferred their passion for mixed drinks from their other successful endeavours.QF‑12, Sihlstrasse 20, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 210 40 60, www.bovelli.ch. Open 07:30 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. J­A

Right at the Bernhardtheater

Lunches like homemade Crispy pizza and tarte flambée Wine from regional vineyards Hip cocktails The spot to meet on the ground floor of the Opernhaus and the Bernhardtheater

BROS BEANS & BEATS The plain concrete walls and ceiling give this small café an industrial ambience but the wooden bar and the low hanging light bulbs add the requisite cosy touch. Bros Beans & Beats serves excellent coffee using a blend from local roaster Henauer and it also has some filter coffee on offer, which seems to be hip again these days. For food there are freshly prepared sandwiches as well as breakfast and a lunch special. The in-crowd of the district also drops by for beers and drinks in the evening – and so do we.QC-12, Gartenhofstrasse 24, 8Werd, tel. (+41) 44 543 65 80, www.brosbeansbeats.ch. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Mon 09:00 - 18:00, Fri 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. A COLLANA A huge window front, stone floors and the wooden panels behind the bar bring a fancy italianità to this café in front of the opera. The coffee here is excellent and the food Italian, solid and rather pricey. Also on their menu you’ll find the original pepito, a sandwich with a piece of grilled meat (beef, lamb or chicken), onions and a secret sauce. It was sold in the Niederdorf for decades and has many fans. QH‑14, Theaterstrasse 9, 8Stadelhofen, tel. (+41) 44 250 59 10, www.commercio.ch. Open 09:00 - 24:00. J­A­B facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

Monday to Sunday 11 am to 12 pm Sechseläutenplatz 1 8001 Zurich Tel +41 44 268 64 64 www.belcanto.ch

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Cafés FELIX CAFÉ AM BELLEVUE Felix is the top dog among the coffee places around Bellevue. The spacious interior is opulently decorated with flowers, columns and mirrors. Try their homemade ice cream or the chocolade (chocolate milk) Felix is best known for. They serve all kinds of sweets as well as breakfasts from fast and simple to luxurious with salmon and champagne. Elderly ladies love this pricey café for their afternoon chat just as much as young, hip girls dropping in for a break from shopping. Classical concerts twice a month.QG‑14, Bellevueplatz 5, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) 44 251 80 60, www.cafefelix.ch. Open 07:30 - 22:00, Mon 07:30 - 21:00, Thu 07:30 - 23:00, Fri 07:30 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. J­A­B NEW HERMAN’S WOHNZIMMER Herman’s Living Room at Hotel Greulich boasts lots of wood, some long tables and a designer bookshelf where you can find some magazines to read as well as some books for sale. If you’re curious about the unusual name, Herman Greulich (1842 - 1925) was the founder of the Swiss social democratic party and a member of parliament. Today he serves coffee and snacks like cheese and dried meat platters, quiche and salads. But Herman also has a well appointed bar with everything from fine beers and wines to long drinks and spirits. Some board games are on offer at the reception and a comfortable cigar lounge is also at your disposal. Last but not least, an outdoor seating area can be found outside which is a good place to watch

BREAKFAST Sunday breakfast is an institution in many Swiss families. Zopf is one of the mainstays of Swiss breakfasts, a rich white bread baked in the shape of a braid, which is served with butter, jam, honey, cheeses or cold meats. Swiss bakeries bake a huge variety of breads rye bread, corn bread or potato-and-walnut bread to name just a few - which add to the breakfast spread. Buttery croissants, called gipfeli in Swiss German, are also a favourite. Another breakfast dish with strong roots in Switzerland is müesli, made of oat flakes, grated apple, ground hazelnuts and yoghurt in the classic birchermüesli version. Here are some of our favourite breakfast places: MAISON BLUNT, for an excellent brunch with an oriental touch as well as more traditional Swiss breakfast options like a cheese selection or different kinds of scrambled eggs. Every day until 16:00 (see p. 28). BOHEMIA Daily breakfast from müesli and pancakes to omelettes (07:30 - 11:00). Cosy brunch on the weekend (Sat & Sun 09:00 - 16:00) with steak & eggs or a full English breakfast with sausages and beans (see. p. 28). 32 Zurich In Your Pocket

Style meets cosiness at Herman’s Wohnzimmer.

PD

daily district life pass by.QB‑11, Herman-Greulich-Strasse 56, 8Bäckeranlage, tel. (+41) 43 243 42 48, www. hermans-wohnzimmer.ch. Open 06:30 - 22:30, Thu, Fri, Sat 06:30 - 24:00. MY PLACE Beware: You may be chased out of the fancy designer chair you are just sitting in because it has just been sold. All the furniture in this cosy bar - which is a furniture shop in the basement too - is for sale. To satisfy your hunger there is a simple lunch menu that changes daily, salads with chicken or hot goat cheese and a choice of tapas. Try the homemade ice tea, a piece of cake or a glass from the nice selection of red wines. My Place is a favourite with students and office workers from the neighbourhood.QH‑13, Hottingerstrasse 4, 8Kunsthaus, tel. (+41) 43 499 96 46, www.myplacedesign.ch. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 24:00. Closed Sun, kitchen open until 23:00. J­A­B­K RATHAUS This coffee bar is small but elegant, all timbered with bright wood. Have a coffee and enjoy the easiness of being, the river Limmat flowing by just outside the window. Or have a cocktail or a Martini in the evening. On a mild, sunny day you can ask for a takeaway coffee, go to the platform next to the river just outside on the left and sit with your feet dangling over the water.QG‑12, Limmatquai 61, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 261 07 70, www.rathauscafe.ch. Open 07:30 - 22:00, Thu, Fri 07:30 - 23:00, Sat 10:30 23:00, Sun 10:30 - 19:00. J­A­B SPRÜNGLI CAFÉ Sprüngli has been around for 170 years and for locals it’s synonymous with excellent confectionery and chocolate. Their café is the place to stop for a coffee when shopping on Bahnhofstrasse. Try to get a window seat on the first floor overlooking Paradeplatz, order a coffee and choose something sweet from the display cabinet. Try their famed luxemburgerli, small macaroons with a light and airy cream filling in different flavours or some of their many varieties of chocolates. Unusually for Switzerland you pay at the cash desk when leaving.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 21, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 224 46 16, www.spruengli.ch. Open 07:00 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:30 - 17:30. J­A­B zurich.inyourpocket.com


Nightlife Zurich’s nightlife offers classy clubs, casual and alternative bars, as well as live-music venues and strip clubs. On the weekend people from almost half of Switzerland come to the city to have a good time. The main nightlife areas are Niederdorf in the old town (G-11/13), the streets around Langstrasse (C/D-10/11) and Zurich West (B/C-7/8). There is a lively club scene - but with dozens of bars around, barhopping can be just as much fun. A night out in Zurich can be great, but quite expensive. If you’re heading for bars and clubs have some cash handy, as not all venues take credit cards. If you prefer it on the quiet side, there are wine and cocktail bars in the old town and around Paradeplatz. Check out our listings. For more recommendations check www.zurich.inyourpocket.com

CASUAL BARS BAR 63 When the new owners took over in 2009, this venue (established in 1963) had seen better times. They were wise enough to only give it a face lift, conserving the 60s charm. So now it’s not fancy but all the more likable. The selection of rum is a surprise: more than 100 rums from 25 countries, including unusual provenances like Nepal. They also sell many wines by the glass. Perfect for the laid-back start of an evening.QD‑10, Rolandstrasse 19, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. (+41) 44 241 75 83, www.bar63.ch. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri 16:00 - 02:00, Sat 14:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. A NEW CINCHONA (25HOURS HOTEL LANGSTRASSE) 25hours hotels are renowned for their penchant for letting their interior designers go a little crazy at times and the Cinchona bar in the lobby of the new 25hours is a good example of this. There are golden steps to sit on, plants and a bike hanging from the ceiling and an unusual kind of lift constantly moves miniature landscapes up and down. The lounge-like booths are a good place to meet with friends and the bar specialises in high ball drinks (smaller long drinks, or simplified cocktails) and fortified wines, but, yes, regular wine and beer are also available. In short, it’s where local hipsters can meet their international counterparts. QD‑10, Langstrasse 150, 8Sihlpost/HB, tel. (+41) 44 576 50 04, www.25hours-hotels.com/en/langstrasse. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. A LE RAYMOND Thanks to the high backrests of the benches, the booths at Le Raymond really offer plenty of privacy, which makes it a good option if you’re with a small group or if you’d simply like to remain an anonymous diner. That said, a large bar area where it’s easy to mingle with other guests is also available. Bright wood panelling sets the tone at this watering hole that serves proper cocktails to appreciative business people who drop by after work. By day Raymond functions as a café serving pies and some international press if you’re short on reading materials.QF‑13, Bleicherweg 8, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 221 02 0, www.leraymond.bar. Open daily early until late. A facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

SYMBOL KEY A Credit cards accepted

N No credit cards

E Concerts

K Restaurant

X Separate smoker’s lounge

WIDDER GARAGE For roughly eight months the Widder Garage is the temporary home of the Widder Bar while it’s being renovated. And while the original bar is quite upmarket, the Garage is like a younger brother: cheekier and more daring, but from the same good family. The bar in this former old town garage is actually made of pianos, the beers are cooled in a bathtub and hundreds of vinyl records on the shelves lend it a retro touch that we absolutely love. But make no mistake. The service and the cocktails are just as good as at the original location and many of the single malts and rare spirits for which the Widder is so famous are also available here.QF‑13, Augustinerhof 1, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 224 27 72, www.widderhotel.com. Open 17:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Sun. A

The International is seriously decicated to craft beers.

PD

CRAFT BEER BARS THE INTERNATIONAL This bar is dedicated to craft beers from small breweries. They have a great choice of around 50 different ones from all around Switzerland on offer, and another 50 from around the world, many from Belgium, the US and Canada. Around 10 are on tap. The huge board on the wall behind the bar lists them grouped by types, like India pale ales, stouts, amber etc. to help you choose. Or tell the barkeeper what taste you like and he will be happy to help. Despite the many Swiss beers, lots of expats are regulars here. While the bar looked a touch too sterile when they opened, it now has the feel of a proper beer joint. You love craft beers? You will like it here.QD‑9, Luisenstrasse 7, 8Röntgenstrasse, tel. (+41) 79 345 78 72, www.theinternational.ch. Open 16:00 - 24:00. A June - July 2017

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Nightlife CLASSY BARS KRONENHALLE BAR This is a bar from of a long-forgotten world of style and grace. Sit at marble tabletops below artwork by Picasso, Chagall and Mirò or at the all-mahogany bar and choose one of the cocktails created by chef de bar Christian Heiss. After having worked here for over a decade, in 2017 he took the reins from legendary barkeeper Peter Roth who invented the Ladykiller among 300 other creations. Naturally, Roth’s classics are still available. We ordered an olio nobile containing gin and, yes, a drop of olive oil and were overjoyed with what we received.QG‑14, Rämistrasse 4, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) 44 262 99 11, www.kronenhalle.ch. Open 11:30 - 24:00. A­K OLD CROW The range of bottles behind the bar is truly impressive - over 1,150 spirits, apparently. The barkeepers are real aficionados, particularly regarding whisky, and some of the rarities on offer are from the private collection of one of them. Their bar has something of an English cottage seen from the street, inside the soft lighting, the mediaeval stone arch and the green leather benches make for a calm atmosphere. That means you can take your time to choose a cocktail, for instance a beer cocktail. If you need advice, the well-dressed staff will be glad to help. No reservations. QG‑12, Schwanengasse 4, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 43 233 53 35, www.oldcrow.ch. Open 17:00 - 00:30. Closed Sun. A

COCKTAIL BARS RAYGRODSKI The liquor bottles hanging upside-down from the ceiling are an eyecatcher here, but certainly not the reason why this bar is so popular with a young and fashionable crowd. The ever-changing cocktails made with lots of dedication, the twelve different vodkas available (served with cucumber), the table service

CASINO SWISS CASINOS ZÜRICH More than 350 slot machines and the table games roulette, black jack, punto banco and texas hold’em poker on two floors make this casino the largest in Switzerland. The stakes on the table games set in at 2 Sfr – with practically no upper limit. For your physical well-being there are two bars and a lounge. The casino also has a smoker’s section. To get access you need to be at least 18 years old, well dressed and have a valid ID card or passport with you. The entrance fee is 10 CHF after 19:00.QE‑12, Gessnerallee 3-5, 8Stauffacher / Sihlstrasse, tel. (+41) 43 330 30 30, www.swisscasinos.ch. Open 11:00 - 04:00, Fri & Sat 11:00 - 05:00. Table games start at 14:00. 34 Zurich In Your Pocket

The fine art of concocting cocktails at Tales.

PD

and the mix of the young, care-free atmosphere with some true style are the ingredients people love at the Raygrodski - and you can count us in too. On weekends sometimes a DJ spins some tunes.QB‑12, Sihlfeldstrasse 49, 8Lochergut, tel. (+41) 44 241 49 49, www.raygrodski.ch. Open 18:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. A TALES At this bar they really are dedicated to the fine art of making cocktails. And yes, think way further than a classy Old Fashioned. The cocktail list is bound in fine leather and features fancy variations of the recent trend of cocktails with kitchen herbs as well as classics and variations. But you can also just tell the barkeepers (and owners) Michel and Wolfgang the style of cocktail and kind of tastes you like, and they will surprise you with one of their creations. Their spirits library is huge. A classy bar for cocktail lovers. And who isn’t one these days?QE‑12, Selnaustrasse 29, 8Stauffacher, tel. (+41) 44 542 38 02, www.tales-bar.ch. Open 18:00 - 03:00, Sat 20:00 03:00. Closed Sun.

ALTERNATIVE BARS NEW SENDER Local alternative webradio station GDS.FM now has its own bar. Although it has brought the electronic sounds of Zurich’s nightlife subculture to the airwaves since 2013, in the spring of 2017 it began to broadcast the DJ sets from its Sender bar. On Thursdays you can often find a live band and DJs spin their records on Fridays and Saturdays. The bar is small and dark and even the disco ball behind the bar is painted black, but that doesn’t prevent people from shaking their booties here late at night. The adequately lit concrete construction of the ceiling and the space photography on the wall make for an uncommon, yet appropriate atmosphere. A small outdoor area is available until 22:00.QD‑11, Kurzgasse 4, 8Helvetiaplatz, www.gds.fm/sender. Open 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun, warm-up 20:00, DJs 22:00. A zurich.inyourpocket.com


Nightlife VINERIA CENTRALE We guarantee you will feel like you’re in Italy in this genuine, tiny venue! A few tables, a diagonal bar with some stools and a cordial host is all it takes, besides the friendly, easygoing crowd and maybe a glass of wine of course. But it’s not just an ideal spot to have a drink and a chat with friends. They also do great Italian food, be it appetizers or pasta or other mains (and a daily lunch deal). You’re on your own? No problem, as a chat comes easy here. It’s the Italian way, you know! Thu & Fri 17:00 - 20:00 usually aperitivo with free antipasti buffet (surcharge per drink 2Sfr).QD‑9, Neugasse 42, 8Limmatplatz, tel. (+41) 76 513 22 04, www.facebook.com/VineriaCentrale. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. A­K

DANCE BARS LONGSTREET Hundreds of dimly gleaming old-fashioned light bulbs on the ceiling and the red plush on the wall make you think you are entering a burlesque strip bar of the old days. But don‘t be spoofed: there have been no half-naked girls dancing on stage in this bar for years. Instead the hip crowd has taken over to party all week long: the small dance floor upstairs with a DJ is packed almost every night.QD‑11, Langstrasse 92, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. (+41) 44 241 21 72, www.longstreetbar.ch. Open 18:00 - 02:00, Fri 18:00 - 04:00, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. A­X

The stately elegance of the rainy isles: it’s always cosy at James PD Joyce.

PUBS & TAVERNS JAMES JOYCE The James Joyce is a classy Irish pub with furnishings which came from the Jury’s hotel in Dublin and an Art Nouveau bar built in the 19th century. The crowd here is quite uptown and business-like. The beer list features 15 beers (4 on tap) including Guinness Stout and Boddington Ale. Their choice of wines is also surprisingly large: around 20 served by the glass and more than 300 different bottles in the cellar. On the menu there is fish ‘n’ chips, homemade hamburgers, tartar and club sandwiches. Do we have to mention that they have an excellent choice of single malt whiskeys as well?QF‑12, Pelikanstrasse 8, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 221 18 28, www.jamesjoyce.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun, June - August Sat only 11:00 - 18:00. A­K facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

OEPFELCHAMMER The Oepfelchammer is best known for its wine tavern on the first floor - which still looks like it did more than 200 years ago. A special challenge awaits you there: climb over two ceiling beams and drink a free glass of wine hanging upside down. If you make it, you will be allowed to carve your name into the wooden walls - what an honour. Give it a try, but be warned: it is not easy. Make sure you respect the written house rules (i.e. no applause, just knocking on the tables) - or the eccentric waiter Boris (what a moustache!) will be happy to fine you 5Sfr. Good but quite expensive Swiss food in the refectory.QG‑12, Rindermarkt 12, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 251 23 36, www.oepfelchammer.ch. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 16:00 - 24:00, closed Sun & Mon. In summer 2017 closed from 14:30 - 17:30. A­K

ADULT ENTERTAINMENT If you’re male and looking for the so-called ‘sins of the flesh,’ then Zurich has a lot to offer. Prostitution is legal in Switzerland, so you can find everything from strip bars and erotic massages to sex clubs and escort services in Zurich. While hardly an alpine Amsterdam, Zurich is an inviting destination if you’re looking for carnal pleasures and sexy ladies in various states of undress. Prostitution is not only legal but is also regulated by the city. Sex clubs need permission to operate and this is only granted if a business follows all of the security, health, social security and tax regulations, doesn’t place any undue pressure on the sex workers, ensures their health and guarantees violence prevention. For all these reasons, sex clubs are probably the best and safest option if you’re looking for sex in Zurich. Street prostitution is also regulated, but is only permitted in a few areas (i.e. Häringstrasse in the Niederdorf district) and only at certain times. Here are some reputable strip bars. Check our website www.zurich.inyourpocket.com for erotic massage parlours and sex clubs. We believe the places we list to be upstanding businesses, but we still recommend employing simple common sense when delving into the world of adult entertainment. HAIFISCH The ‘shark’ in the centre of Niederdorf comes with modern red leather sofas and lots of mirrors. The interior is nice, but really you’re here for the girls - they dance on two poles on a sleek stage. Sit back and enjoy. QG‑12, Mühlegasse 3, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. (+41) 44 251 41 10, www.haifischbar.ch. Open 19:00 - 04:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 05:00. June - July 2017

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Nightlife CLUBS As nightlife goes outdoors in summer (see p. 12), many of the city’s clubs have a reduced programme especially in July and August, some even close for a few weeks. But when the outdoor bars have to close at midnight you will always find a dance floor to party on. Check the websites of the clubs before you go. FRIEDA’S BÜXE Frieda’s Büxe is a small house and techno club in the basement of an office building, close to Albisriederplatz, an area which is otherwise not well known for nightlife. Opened by a DJ collective in 2010, it quickly became popular with those in the know.QA‑11, Friedaustrasse 23, 8Albisriederplatz, www.friedasbuexe.ch. Open Fri 23:00 - 08:00, Sat 23:00 - 10:00. N KANZLEI The Kanzlei is one of the dinosaurs of the city’s clubs. Located in a former gym hall at Helvetiaplatz, its dance floor

LIVE MUSIC VENUES Zurich offers all kinds of live music: jazz, pop, rock, metal, indie, gothic and much more. You will find bands playing somewhere every night of the week. The clubs and bars listed here focus on live music - we tell you what you can usually expect. Some are just open if there is a concert. In summer they have reduced activities. For their daily programme, check the websites - or find all concerts on www.zueritipp.ch. MEHRSPUR This is the music club and bar of the Zurich University of the Arts. It features a bar on the ground level and a subterranean concert hall. From Thursday to Saturday they usually have concerts and Fri & Sat sometimes after-show parties.QA‑7, Förrlibuckstrasse 109, 8Toni Areal, tel. (+41) 43 446 50 76, www.mehrspur.ch. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Mon 15:30 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 01:00, Sat 20:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. MOODS With more than 230 concerts a year, the Moods is Zurich’s prime address for jazz, funk, soul, blues and world music. Big international names as well as many Swiss artists. After-show parties on the weekend.QB‑7, Schiffbaustrasse 6, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 276 80 00, www.moods.ch. ROTE FABRIK This centre of alternative culture funded by the city has about 100 concerts a year on their variously sized stages. In summer sometimes open-air shows. QSeestrasse 395, 8Post Wollishofen, tel. (+41) 44 485 58 58, www.rotefabrik.ch. 36 Zurich In Your Pocket

The rich and beautiful - and wannabes like us - party at Kaufleuten. 

Zurich Tourism (MB)

has been a magnet for a young party crowd for more than two decades - and it actually still is. Fri and Sat the DJs spin mostly party tunes, black music like hip hop, r’n’b, dancehall and reggae - check their website for details. Sometimes concerts.QD‑11, Kanzleistrasse 56, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. (+41) 44 291 63 11, www.kanzlei.ch. Open Fri, Sat & occasionally Thu 23:00 - 04:00. KAUFLEUTEN The Kaufleuten club is an institution in Zurich’s nightlife: the rich, the beautiful and wannabes like us queue up almost every weekday to party, mostly to electronic music and disco-house sounds (sometimes party tunes, r’n’b and hip hop or reggaeton). Dress to impress is the motto, and for some people here looking the part seems to be very important. Nevertheless, it’s a good place for a classy night out.QF‑13, Pelikanstrasse 18, 8Sihlstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 225 33 22, www.kaufleuten.com. Open Thu - Sat 22:30/23:00 - 04:00/05:00, other days check programme. Admission around 25Sfr. A­E­X LEXY The DJ booth is a minimalist piece of concrete, the lighting comes from LED lines that form geometric figures on the walls and the modern sound system blasts tight electro music. Welcome to Lexy, a cool club for electronic music that opened in the spring of 2016. To start you can grab a drink at the long golden bar or perhaps chill in one of the birdcage-like seats. But you came here to dance, right? Most of the other patrons did anyway, so we reckon it’s time you joined them on the dance floor.QD‑10, Militärstrasse 84, 8Sihlpost/HB, www.lexyclub.ch. Open Fri 23:00 05:00, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. PLAZA The Plaza bis a big club with two dance floors (and yes, you can smoke on the smaller one!). DJ’s play sounds from mash up, 90s and 80s, r’n’b to disco, house and the like. The Plaza is popular with all kinds of people - a good place to end your bar tour around Langstrasse. Thursday students night, free admission for students before 23:00.QC‑12, Badenerstrasse 109, 8Bezirksgebäude, tel. (+41) 44 542 90 90, www.plaza-zurich.ch. Club open Thu 22:00 - late, Fri & Sat 23:00 - late. Bar opens Mon - Fri 17:00, Sat 18:00. Admission Fri & Sat around 25Sfr. A­E­X zurich.inyourpocket.com


Zurich Nord The part of the city behind the two hills Käferberg and Zürichberg is commonly referred to as Zürich Nord. The districts 7, 11 and 12 used to be independent villages and merged with the city in 1934. Close to the airport they are now home to many international companies, the trade fair, some hotels and more and more restaurants and bars. You definitely don’t have to go to the city centre to have a good night out.

RESTAURANTS LE MUH (SWISSÔTEL) The setting here is modern and really enjoyable, somewhere between business and casual - but definitely a far cry from the cowshed atmosphere the name might imply. The cuisine matches the interior: a modern take on Swiss and international dishes. The menu changes weekly and most ingredients are sourced locally. Neither the prime burger nor the tartar gave us any reason whatsoever to complain.QG‑1, Schulstrasse 44, 8Bahnhof Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 44 317 33 91, www.lemuh.ch. Open 06:30 - 24:00. €€. A­B

TIBITS OERLIKON The bounteous vegetarian buffet is also the focal point of the tibits branch in Zurich Nord. Choose from around 40 homemade salads, hot daily specials, soups, sandwiches and sweets. Take it from us, it’s more than just tasty and many of the dishes are actually not just vegetarian, but vegan. The colourful wallpaper and the modern designer lamps make for the typical airy urban tibits atmosphere. A kids’ corner is available in the basement and, yes, all the food can be ordered as takeaway.QH‑1, Tramstrasse 2, 8Sternen Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 44 317 25 55, www.tibits.ch. Open 07:00 23:00, Fri 07:00 - 23:30, Sat 08:00 - 23:30, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. €. A­B ZIEGELHÜTTE At the forest’s edge in Schwamendingen lies the Ziegelhütte, a real country inn within the city limits. On the menu you’ll find - surprise surprise - good, rustic dishes like fleischchäs (swiss style meat loaf ), schnitzel and risotto. You can feel that they like what they do here. Take tram N°7 (direction Stettbach) to Schwamendingerplatz, from there it’s an easy 8-minute walk. Apart from the restaurant there is a huge beer garden with lots of atmosphere.QHüttenkopfstrasse 70, 8Schwamendingerplatz, tel. (+41) 44 322 40 03, www.wirtschaft-ziegelhuette.ch. Open 09:30 - 22:30, Fri, Sat 09:30 - 23:30, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon, kitchen closes 21:30/22:30, Sun 19:30. Occasionally concerts in the hall. €€. A­B

NIGHTLIFE A touch of cow here and there, but something for vegetarians too: PD Le Muh.

MAMMA MIA Enjoy your favourite Italian dishes in the nicely decorated interior or on the deck outside. The menu offers an excellent choice of traditional Italian fare such as pizza and pasta - but it also includes daily changing menus and weekly specials. The place is full most days of the week, not only because it’s right next door to the big Swissôtel but also because the prices are more than fair.QG‑1, Nansenstrasse 9, 8Bahnhof Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 44 311 83 06, www.mammamia.ch. Open 11:00 - 14:30, 17:30 23:30, kitchen open until 22:30. €. B­X PERRON 9 The culinary concept at Perron 9 is focussed on high quality meat - entrecôte, roast chicken, or something from the charcoal grill - and includes some nice touches of traditional Alpine cuisine, like sauerkraut or pumpkin seeds. You’ll also find fish or vegetarian dishes on the menu. The industrial-age rooms with the cast-iron pillars make for a pleasing surrounding.QG‑1, Affolternstr. 52, 8Bahnhof Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 43 288 94 45, www.perron9.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Sun. (31 - 56Sfr). €€. A­B facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

COOPER’S PUB Located just next to Oerlikon train station (and in walking distance of the Swissôtel and the Courtyard Marriott), the Cooper’s with its whiskey barrels and dark wooden floor and panels, brings an Irish pub feel to this part of town. They of course have Murphy’s Red and Guinness on tap, all the sports on TV and serve really affordable burgers (13 - 21Sfr). There are also fish & chips, pies and salads on the menu. Occasionally concerts. Cheers!QH‑1, Schaffhauserstrasse 359, 8Sternen Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 76 261 00 30, www.coopers-pub.ch. Open 15:00 - 24:00, Fri 15:00 - 02:00, Sat 13:45 - 02:00, Sun 13:45 - 22:00, (Sun closed in summer). K JAIME EL BARCO The Jaime is a bar with a South American touch in Zurich Nord, just next to the Courtyard Marriott. Hot panini for a snack, a frozen daiquiri or a margarita from the cocktail menu or a beer will cheer you up after a hard day of walking or working. There is table football and darts - quite some entertainment in this part of the city.QOtto-Schütz-Weg 5, 8Bahnhof Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 44 310 21 70, www.jaime.ch. Open 09:00 14:00, 16:00 - 24:00. Closed Sat, Sun. E June - July 2017

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Sightseeing

Picture-perfect Zurich: the old town, the lake and the Alps in the background. | Zurich Tourism

Zurich’s largely intact medieval town on the one hand and its natural setting on the other are the city’s charms. It also has an excellent range of museums and galleries showing international art. Admission to many places is free, if it does cost we indicate the full price followed by reduced price, usually the children’s price, e.g. 10/5Sfr. Museums are usually closed on Mondays.

MAIN SIGHTS If you ask someone from Zurich which of the city’s sights represents Zurich best, they’ll probably point to the Grossmünster, its unmistakable double towers making it the closest Zurich has to a landmark. Wasserkirche and Fraumünster complete the trinity of famous churches. Lindenhof is where Zurich started off and is a lovely spot today, while the central police station is another unlikely lovely spot - unless maybe you’re escorted there. Its entrance hall is splendidly decorated with work by Augusto Giacometti. But two of Zurich’s major attractions are not man-made at all: the lake and the Uetliberg peak. FRAUMÜNSTER Today most people come to Fraumünster to see the magnificent stained glass windows in the choir created by French artist Marc Chagall in the early 1970s, or the windows by Augusto Giacometti. But in days gone by this Gothic abbey dating from the 9th century was more than just pretty. Fraumünster, which literally means women’s abbey, belonged to the Benedictine convent whose abbess had wide powers in Zurich. Women came on harder times 38 Zurich In Your Pocket

in the 16th century. The little archway on the outer corner of Fraumünster (Poststrasse/Münsterhof ) was used to limit decadence and elaborate clothing, and women’s wide hoop skirts had to fit through here, or else a fine was due. Since summer 2016 the crypt is open to visitors. Be considerate, no photos, no visiting during Sunday services.QG‑13, Stadthausquai 19, 8Helmhaus, www.fraumuenster.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 5Sfr, incl. audioguide (available in 8 languages) or brochure and admission to crypt museum. Children free. Groups must book time slots in advance. GIACOMETTI MURALS In the entrance hall to the city’s police headquarters, Augusto Giacometti’s (1877 - 1947) magnificent murals adorn the vaulted ceiling and the walls. We think this impressive work is a must see for any Zurich visitor! The Giacomettis were a family of artists: Augusto’s cousin Giovanni (1868 - 1933) and Giovanni’s son Alberto (1901 - 1966) were successful artists too. And while Alberto and his haggard bronze figures are probably the best known Giacomettis (you can see some of those figures in the permanent exhibition at Zurich’s Kunsthaus), Augusto had the strongest connection to Zurich, as he studied and later lived here. And the murals in the entrance hall of Zurich’s police headquarters (1923 - 1925) is not the only work of his you can see in the city: he revitalised the art of stained-glass windows, creating the choir windows in the Grossmünster (1932), the window depicting paradise in the northern transept of the Fraumünster (1945) and windows in the Wasserkirche. The murals however, remain zurich.inyourpocket.com


Sightseeing the work he is best known for. Admission to the murals is free, the opening hours are quite short though.QG‑12, Polizeiwache, Bahnhofquai 3, 8Bahnhofquai/HB. Open 09:00 - 11:00, 14:00 - 16:00, ​Admission free, ID required. GROSSMÜNSTER The two towers of the originally Romanesque Grossmünster are Zurich’s landmark and they also offer a great view over Zurich, if you make it up the 187 narrow steps (4/2Sfr admission for the tower, open 10:00 - 17:00 (16:30 in winter), Sun 12:30 - 17:00 (16:30 in winter)). According to legend, Felix and Regula, Zurich’s patron saints, were beheaded at the site of the Wasserkirche and then walked up to where the Grossmünster stands, taking their heads with them. Centuries later the emperor Charlemagne was passing through Zurich and decided to found a church in honour of the martyrs - after a hint from his horse. Since the Reformation the church has a barren feel, alleviated only by the windows. German artist Sigmar Polke finished 12 simply beautiful windows in 2009, partly made of semi-precious stones. Crypt and cloister with a museum on the Reformation are also accessible.QG‑13, Grossmünsterplatz, 8Helmhaus, www.grossmuenster.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:00.

Take a sneak peek: Fraumünster as seen from Helmhaus. 

Zurich Tourism (BM)

UETLIBERG The Uetliberg is Zurich’s own little mountain, marking the end of the Albis mountain chain on the western side of Lake Zurich. It rises up to 869 metres a.s.l. - towering around 450 metres over the city. There is a lookout tower on top (admission 2Sfr) bringing you to exactly 900 metres a.s.l. and offering a stunning view over the city, the lake and on to the Alps. The mountain is a popular local recreation area all year round. There is a train (S10 from track 21 or 22) from the main station twice an hour (more on weekends). Be aware that you need an additional ticket even if you have a day pass for Zurich (with a day pass, buy a 1 - 2 additional zones’ day ticket at the ticket machine). From the terminal station it’s an easy 10-minute walk to the peak with the lookout tower and a restaurant. You can also walk up from the city to the peak. Take tram N°13 in direction Albisgüetli and get off at the last stop. From there two different paths lead to the top, both take about an hour. You do not need hiking equipment, but we recommend good shoes and staying on the path. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

LAKE ZURICH

Zurich Tourism

The lake is certainly one of the city’s highlights and a walk along the shores is a must, whatever the season. Start for example at Bellevue and walk along the promenade towards Zürichhorn. After a few hundred metres a park fills the expanse between the lake and the street. The huge Blatterwiese, also known as Chinawiese because the Chinese garden is just next to it, is popular for relaxing, sunbathing or playing sports. There is also a playground for kids. Continuing, you get to Zürichhorn, a small delta with some lakeside restaurants and later still to the railway station Tiefenbrunnen where you can hop on a tram (or train) back to Bellevue. The western shore of the lake is a bit less popular though just as nice for a walk. Start at the Arboretum and walk along the shore passing Enge port, the cactuses of the Sukkulentensammlung, and the Mythenquai until you reach the Landiwiese, a large field where many cultural events take place. If you go just a little further, you can enjoy a beer in the restaurant of the offstream cultural centre Rote Fabrik (red factory), marked by the red brick factory chimney. LAKE ZURICH CRUISES The Lake Zurich Navigation Company operates ships on Lake Zurich and the River Limmat. If you just want ten minutes of captains’ uniforms and brass foghorns, the routes Bürkliplatz-Wollishofen and BürkliplatzZürichhorn are included in any public transport ticket covering zone 110, but you need to buy a 5Sfr boat surcharge (available on board). If that’s not enough for you, go the whole hog with a roundtrip. There are different cruises all year round. They all start from the port at Bürkliplatz close to Bellevue several times a day. The short cruise (90 minutes) for example starts in summer every 30 minutes between 09:10 and 19:40, the 4-hour one every hour. Tickets and timetables are available at the port.QF‑14, Bürkliplatz, 8Bürkliplatz, tel. (+41) 44 487 13 33, www.zsg.ch. Tickets for roundtrips 8.80-34.40Sfr (plus 5Sfr boat surcharge), children half the price, discount with Zurich public transport day cards. June - July 2017

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Sightseeing LINDENHOF This idyllic square on a little hill in Zurich’s centre used to be an important place. The Romans set up shop here and later mediaeval royals would stay here when travelling in the region. Check out the replica Roman tomb stone in the right-hand wall of Pfalzgasse leading down and out of the square. The view from here over the Limmat is very pretty and on sunny days you can join in a game of chess at the back of the square.QG‑12, 8Rathaus.

MUSEUMS & ART Zurich is a real city of museums - there are 43 of them with all kind of exhibitions. We list the most popular ones and the ones we like best. You can find more information in English on all the museums on www.museen-zuerich.ch. FIFA WORLD FOOTBALL MUSEUM This is the latest addition to Zurich’s rich museum scene so now there is actually someplace for football fans to visit in Zurich, the hometown of the International Federation of Association Football FIFA. The museum is located just next to Enge train station. On three floors and more than 3000 sqm it tells the history of football, the FIFA and the World Cup. On Planet Football on the ground floor, the jerseys of all 209 FIFA member associations are on show in a sort of rainbow - plus a timeline which takes you through the history of FIFA. The second floor of the exhibition is underground. It’s dedicated to the pioneers of football and the World Cup, showing dozens of artefacts of each of the World Cups held since 1920, for example the tracksuit that football’s first real star Pelé wore in 1958. And yes, the original FIFA World Cup trophy is on display! The third floor is dedicated to the impact football has had and still has on society. And there is a gaming zone with giant pinball machines where you and your kids can show and test your skills with an actual football. All in all an interesting and contemporary multimedia exhibition. Great for football fans, but definitely not only. Download the museum’s free app which transforms your phone into an interactive audio guide.QE‑15, Seestrasse 27, 8Bahnhof Enge, tel. (+41) 43 388 25 00, www.fifamuseum.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 24/14Sfr, students 18, kids younger than 7 free, families 64Sfr.

The cinema at the FIFA Football Museum.

40 Zurich In Your Pocket

PD

KUNSTHAUS Zurich’s major art museum has an impressive collection with work by many Swiss artists such as Füssli, Hodler, Segantini or Bill and the largest collection of Alberto Giacometti’s work including some of his trademark haggard statues. Work by international artists like Manet, Van Gogh, Kokoschka or Baselitz also please the eye and mind. Additionally there are usually two very worthwhile temporary exhibitions, one large, one small (see section Culture & Events). English language audioguides available. Café and shop on the ground floor.QH‑13, Heimplatz 1, 8Kunsthaus, tel. (+41) 44 253 84 84, www.kunsthaus.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission for collection 16/11Sfr, for exhibitions 23/18Sfr, combined ticket 26/19Sfr.

Gaze at classic art at the Kunsthaus.

www.jpg-factory.com

NATIONAL MUSEUM (LANDESMUSEUM) It will take you a while to get through the permanent exhibition on Swiss history, but hey, it took centuries to accumulate. Complete with sights, sounds, slides and secret bank accounts, this is not some bone-dry collection of old things. There are four thematic areas: the first section shows the history of migration and settlement, the second examines religious and intellectual history, the third is dedicated to Swiss political history and the fourth section focusses on economy. For most exhibits explanations in English are available. There are temporary exhibitions on changing topics. In August 2016 the striking concrete extension that has been built over the last few years opened to the public. The museum has now finally much more space, a study centre and a large restaurant. E-guide in the ‘National Museum’ app for your smartphone available in English and other languages.QF‑10, Museumstrasse 2, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 58 466 65 11, www.landesmuseum.ch. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/8Sfr. PAVILLON LE CORBUSIER The Le Corbusier Pavilion is an art space created by the famous Swiss architect of the same name. It was, in fact, his last building, finished in 1967. Set in wooded grounds right next to the lake, it is itself a colourful, light piece of art. The 2017 exhibition ‘for now or forever - Swiss zurich.inyourpocket.com


Sightseeing Pavilions’ not surprisingly focuses on pavilions made by Swiss architects. Le Corbusier himself used pavilions to break out of the confines of artistic precision, the Zurich pavilion being a perfect example of this. A special emphasis has been placed on exhibition and restaurant pavilions by architects such as Mario Botta, Herzog & de Meuron and Santiago Calatrava.QHöschgasse 8, 8Höschgasse, tel. (+41) 44 383 64 70, www.stadt -zuerich.ch/lecorbusier. Open May 3 - July 23, 2017: 12:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00 - 20:00, Mon & Tue closed. Admission 12/8Sfr.

CHURCHES See main sights at the beginning of this chapter for the churches Fraumünster and Grossmünster. ST. PETER St. Peter church is the one with the huge clock-faces on all four sides of the tower you can spot from far away. The diameter of the clock-faces is almost 9 metres they are said to be the biggest in Europe. The nave of the church was finished in 1706, while the choir and the tower date from a Romanesque church built in 1230. This was the first church in Zurich that was built as a Protestant place of worship after the Reformation. QF‑13, St.-Peter-Hofstatt, 8Paradeplatz, www.st -peter-zh.ch. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.

MORE FOR LESS WITH THE ZÜRICHCARD You’re in town for only two days? Too short, but the ZürichCARD can help you make the most of it. For a busy day or two in Zurich, you can’t really go wrong with the ZürichCARD. It gives you free entry to a number of great museums like the National Museum and dozens more. It also gets you a 10% discount in lots of shops, e.g. Meng cutlery or Vollenweider Chocolatier. You get free entry to several of Zurich’s best clubs and to the casino and many restaurants will give you dessert on the house with the card or some other extra, if you have a main course first. The ZürichCARD also gives you unlimited use of trams, buses and trains within the city and includes the train trip from and to the airport, and the trip up to Zurich’s little mountain Uetliberg. Now that’s a deal!QThe ZürichCARD costs 24/16Sfr for 24hr and 48/32Sfr for 72hr. Buy it at SBB counters, at the airport, train stations, at the tourist information at the main station or at all VBZ public transport sales points and from all ticket machines in town (stamp it before you set off!). Check the website www.zuerichcard.com for the full range of discounts and other details.The ZürichCARD is issued by Zurich Tourism who cooperate with Zurich In Your Pocket.

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June - July 2017

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Sightseeing CONTEMPORARY ARCHITECTURE

The rather harsh ‘Neue Einfachheit’ (new simplicity) is the style which was most readily associated with Swiss architecture in recent decades. More recently, architects in Zurich have shaken off the austerity and a number of architectural gems have been built in Zurich. KRAFTWERK 1 Architects: Bünzli/Courvoisier and Stücheli Architekten Kraftwerk 1 was built by a cooperative founded with the aim of experimenting with new types of living arrangements. Completed in 2000, the flats range between 2 and 13 rooms in size, making it possible for up to 15 people to share a flat and to organise their lives in ways beyond the traditional family.QHardturmstrasse 261 - 269, get tram N°17 to Bernoulli-Häuser. LIBRARY OF THE LAW INSTITUTE (RWI) Architect: Santiago Calatrava Valls In a quest to create more space for the university without acquiring any new land, the Spanish architect who is based in Zurich added two stories in steel and glass to this 1909 building. He also roofed the inner courtyard and set into it a series of elliptic steel balconies finished in wood, gaining even more space. From the bottom floor where one enters, this construction appears as an immense wooden sculpture (see photo above). Apart from the library, completed in 2004, Calatrava is also the creative spirit behind Stadelhofen train station (1984 - 1990).QG-3, Rämi­strasse 74, get tram N°5 or 9 to Kantonsschule. Library open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00, closed Sun.

GARDENS & PARKS BOTANISCHER GARTEN (BOTANICAL GARDEN) The university’s botanical garden was opened in 1977 and lies on a hillside on the eastern side of the lake. You can find different vegetation zones here: a Mediterranean area, an Alpinium with plants from the mountains, an area simulating an African wadi and several bench areas which are an ideal habitat for tired visitors. There are three UFO-like greenhouses - cupolas made of acrylic glass with tropical and subtropical climates inside, housing exotic orchids or cactuses and other survivalists in a simulated savannah. There is a cafeteria serving cheap lunch deals as well.QJ‑16, 42 Zurich In Your Pocket

Zollikerstrasse 107, 8Hegibachplatz, tel. (+41) 44 634 84 61, www.bg.uzh.ch. Open 07:00 - 19:00, Sat & Sun 08:00 18:00. Greenhouses 09:30 - 17:00. Admission free. MFO-PARK This is one of the most amazing parks we’ve seen. It’s basically a modern take on an ancient concept: a multistory metal rectangle covered in plants which you can explore on a number of levels. The main hall also boasts four huge chalice-like fountains that also happen to be enveloped with florae. There are several stairways to choose from, so you can actually climb to the upper floors of the structure and walk on different paths that often lead to unexpected views. Naturally, the leaves change colour with the seasons, so you can visit throughout the year and always see something new. At the very top, many metres above ground, you’ll find a sun deck where you can rest and take in the view of Zurich’s northern end. This unique complex has the same proportions as the adjoining former industrial hall and has been successfully integrated into this district in Zurich Nord. A real gem! The fastest way to get there from the centre is by S-train to Oerlikon (five minutes).QElias-Canetti-Strasse, 8Bahnhof Oerlikon. Upper stories closed Fri & Sat 22:00 - 06:00.

A multi-story metal rectangle covered in plants: the amazing MFOAgata Muszyńska Park.

SIGHTSEEING TOURS BEST OF ZURICH - ZÜRICH CITY TOUR A city tour in an air-conditioned coach - including a short stroll through the old town and a ride with the Dolderbahn rack-and-pinion railway up into the residential area Zürichberg. In little more than two hours you get to see Bahnhofstrasse and the financial district, the old guild houses and the universities. There is a live commentary in English and German, audioguides in Spanish, Russian, Chinese and Japanese available. Many other tours on offer, check website.QF‑10, Bus Terminal Sihlquai, 8Sihlquai/ HB, tel. (+41) 44 710 50 50, www.switzerland-tours.ch. Starts daily 10:00, 13:00 and 15:30 at the bus terminal Sihlquai next to the main train station. Tickets available on the spot, reservation by phone recommended. Tickets 34/17Sfr. zurich.inyourpocket.com


Sightseeing SEGWAY CITY TOURS Explore Zurich on a Segway - a two-wheeled, selfbalancing electric vehicle. This slightly eccentric guided tour in English and German takes two and a half hours and includes a 40-minute instruction on how to drive the Segway. There are several stops on the lake, on Bahnhofstrasse and Limmatquai. Minimum age is 16, no driving licence needed.Qtel. (+41) 848 734 929, www.segwaycitytours.ch. Wed - Sun daily at 14:00. Book by phone before 18:00 the day before. 109Sfr. Check its website for other tours. STORIES OF THE OLD TOWN - GUIDED WALK A professional guide will take you on this two-hour walk through the old town of Zurich. What links famous literati, scientists or visionaries such as Albert Einstein, Lenin and the Dadaists with Zurich? Discover the city’s history and listen to anecdotes from its past in English and German. Good choice if you really want to see the old town, where the bus tours can’t go. For other walks such as the ones on design and gourmet food ask at the Tourist Information at the main station. Reservation by phone recommended.QG‑11, Tourist Information Main Train Station, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 44 215 40 00, www.zuerich.com. Starts at the tourist information at the main train station. Daily 15:00, Sat 11:00 (German) & 15:00 (English), Sun 11:00 & 15:00. 25/12.50Sfr, 50% discount with ZürichCARD.

FLEA MARKET KANZLEI Zurich’s second big flea market - professional traders selling antiques as well as people who spontaneously get a stand and sell their household before moving. Located very centrally on Bürkliplatz - why not browse through the stands before you head for some real shopping on glamourous Bahnhofstrasse?QG‑14, Bürkliplatz, 8Bürkliplatz, www.buerkli-flohmarkt.ch. Every Saturday from May 6 until October 28, 2017, 07:00 - 17:00, no market July 8 and August 12, 2017. ZURICH EXPERIENCE CITY TOUR Ride around Zurich in a modern panorama coach. The two-hour tour gives you an overview of the city showing you the financial district, Bahnhofstrasse and a part of the old town including Grossmünster, Fraumünster and St. Peter’s churches as well as the posh residential areas on Zürichberg. Commentary including some insights into the history of the city is provided via headsets in eight languages (English, French, German, Japanese, Portuguese, Russian, Spanish, Chinese and Italian upon request). They also offer many other tours, including trips to Lucerne, Mount Pilatus, Jungfraujoch and more. See website for more tours.QF‑10, Bus Terminal Sihlquai, 8Sihlquai/ HB, tel. (+41) 44 383 78 78, www.meiertours.ch. Daily 09:45, 12:00 & 14:00. Tickets 34/17Sfr, available on the spot, reservation by phone recommended.

CITY TOURS

EXCURSIONS Bookings +41 (0)44 710 50 50 facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

www.switzerland-tours.ch June - July 2017

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Old-town stroll at the top of Marktgasse and now you’re on the main throughway of pedestrian Niederdorf, the other part of the old town. On the right is 5 Cabaret Voltaire, from where the Dada movement - jolifanto bambla o falli bambla - set off to confuse the bourgeoisie in 1916. A little further on to the left, set back in a little courtyard, is Schober, a richly decorated sweets and pastry shop worth at least a quick visit. Directly opposite are Schwarzenbach coffee roasters - the irresistible smell gets even better if you stick your nose inside. Strolling further along Münstergasse you pass the Bodega Española on your right, where in the 1950s author Max Frisch used to drop in for a beer and a few tapas.

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On the other end of the bridge you have the Rathaus, the town hall, to your right and the Rathaus café to your left. Our rigorous ramble takes us straight ahead, across the tram lines on Limmatquai and into Marktgasse, where you’ll find one of Zurich’s prettiest flower shops. Turn right

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Ahead of you is the church tower of 3 St. Peter (see p. 40), our next destination situated on one of Zurich’s most peaceful squares (St. Peterhofstatt). Going left, either of the alleys (Weggengasse or Thermengasse) gets you to the second bridge, 4 Rathausbrücke, also known as the vegetable bridge because of the small fruit & veg market held here on Saturdays.

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Just after Schipfe 16 take the climb up to 2 Lindenhof (see p. 38), just turn right and up Fortunagasse and then left into Lindenhof with its tall trees, one of the oldest parts of Zurich. The mediaeval German kings would stop over here and the Romans also occupied the spot in their day and age. Take in the view over the parapet or play with the royals who are always here, in one of the games of outdoor chess. Leaving Lindenhof opposite from where you entered (down Pfalz-Gasse), there’s a copy of the Roman tombstone which mentions Turicum (Zurich) on your right, set in the wall.

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Zurich’s old town snuggles up to both banks of the river ­Limmat, so our old-town stroll does much the same and heads upstream, crossing two bridges and passing a third. We set off at the bridge named after Zurich’s first mayor, 1 Rudolf-Brun Brücke, which is easily reached from Bahnhofstrasse or by walking along the Limmat (down Bahnhofquai) from the main train station. At the bridge’s south-western corner, just by the Swiss handicrafts shop, head down the steps to the metal walkway leading upstream along the Limmat, almost touching the water (Heiri-Steg). Soon you’re on a cobbled street (Schipfe), with some miniature antiques shops and boutiques on the right and the restaurant Schipfe 16, a work project for unemployed and well worth a quick stop, on the left.

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In the old town you’ll always find picturesque views. Agata Muszyńska

A few steps along you’re at Zurich’s landmark Romanesque - style abbey, the somewhat austere 6 Grossmünster with its double towers and their rather unique, Neo-Gothic spires added in the 18th century. Looking towards the river, the third bridge, Münsterbrücke, appears and the graceful Fraumünster Abbey is visible across the Limmat. Take the steps from the Grossmünster courtyard down to the 7 Wasserkirche and the Helmhaus art gallery by the river and then cross the bridge to 8 Fraumünster (see p. 36) to gaze at the famous stained-glass windows by Chagall. You’ve seen all the really important parts of Zurich’s old town now and can finish off with one of Zurich’s other major attractions - the lake - which is just five minutes’ walk further along the river.

zurich.inyourpocket.com


Queer Zurich Zurich is undoubtedly Switzerland’s gay and lesbian capital and is in general quite queer-friendly. What better proof than the election of lesbian Corinne Mauch as mayor in 2009? Zurich’s vibrant queer scene was one of the driving forces in creating today’s club culture. Of course, some of the queer venues are cool places to hang out even if you’re hetero. Zurich’s queer calendar has several major events, all in spring or summer. For over ten years a Christopher Street Day has been held in June. Called Zurich Pride Festival (June 9 & 10, 2017, www.zhpf.ch) today, this is a huge event with parties, open-air bars and a colourful march through the city. In spring the Pink Apple film festival (www.pinkapple. ch) shows gay and lesbian films from all over the world and awards a prize to a young director. But the queer scene is also very lively, big events aside. Whether you’re looking for a gayfriendly bar to relax in, gay and lesbian clubbing or venues of a more raunchy kind, you’ll find it in Zurich. Check out the websites or ask in some of the bars too.

PETRA’S TIP TOP BAR Chanson - or what is called schlager in German - is at the top of the menu here. But there’s enough Abba, Boney M and what have you as well. Host Peter is well known - especially for his drag performances. A cosy place for some nostalgic merrymaking.QH‑12, Seilergraben 13, 8Neumarkt, tel. (+41) 44 251 78 20, www.tip-top-bar.ch. Open 18:30 - late. Closed Mon, Sun. PREDIGERHOF The Predigerhof in the centre of the Niederdorf area is a sure bet, open 365 days a year until two in the morning. Order one of their sandwiches and a beer - or step it up a little and choose one of their champagnes. Maybe Lotti, the famed landlady, will join you. You can ask the Thai and Swiss staff for tips for gay events.QG‑12, Mühlegasse 15, 8Rudolf-Brun Brücke, tel. (+41) 44 251 29 85, www.predigerhof.ch. Open 14:00 - 02:00.

CLUBS & PARTIES HEAVEN The Heaven is a cosy queer club featuring music from charts and house to more underground tastes like deep house.QG‑12, Spitalgasse 5, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, www.heavenclub.ch. Open usually Fri & Sat 23:00 - 06:00.

Love is celebrated at the Zurich Pride Festival.

Zurich Tourism

CAFÉS & BARS HELDENBAR Here you’re off the beaten track and on the territory of the non-commercial gay scene. The Heldenbar (hero’s bar) which only comes alive on Wednesdays is a purely nonprofit affair. Sometimes the DJs are professional, sometimes totally amateur, the style of music changes from week to week. If you don’t want to dance, step outside with your beer for a chat on the banks of the river Limmat just behind the venue. Or take up a table-football challenge. QD‑8, Provitreff, Sihlquai 240, 8Quellenstrasse, www.heldenbar.ch. Open Wed 20:00 - 01:00. No admission. MÄNNERZONE A gay sex shop with fetish articles during the week (Tue to Fri 12:00 - 19:00 and Sat 12:00 - 17:00), the Männerzone (men’s zone) turns into a very popular gay bar on Fridays and particularly Saturdays. It’s men only and tends to be 30 and up, though there’s no official rule on age. It’s strictly a bar, no dancing, which maybe fits the many bearded, beary guys you’ll find here.QD‑11, Kernstrasse 57, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. (+41) 43 243 30 43, www.maennerzone.ch. Open Fri & Sat 21:00 - 02:30, in summer Fri & Sat 22:00 - 03:00. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

RAGE Rage is a factory of a cruising club with all the works darkrooms, slings, tubs and, of course, bars. Sector C is fetish pure, with a strict dresscode and changing themes. Only men are admitted. Get there by train to Schlieren station or with bus 31 to the stop Wagonsfabrik. Nightbuses on the weekend.QWagistrasse 13, Schlieren, www.rage.ch. Thu 19:00 - 01:00, Fri 22:00 - 04:00, Sat 22:00 - 05:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. 8-20Sfr. A­X

RESOURCES GAYMEBOYS.COM ONLINE MAGAZINE This is a Zurich-centred gay online community with English-language content. There’s a chat area, personals and a listing of up-coming events and info on gay venues. It’s free, for some services you have to register.Qwww.gaymeboys.com. LGBT+ HELPLINE LGBT+ Helpline offers telephone counselling and operates as a registration office for homophobic violence. Counselling for non-emergency matters is available Mon - Thu 19:00 - 21:00. In case of homophobic violence you can call 24hrs to report the incident, or report the incident online. Counselling is in German but many counsellors speak at least some English. The number is (+41) 800 133 133. It's free to call.Qtel. (+41) 800 133 133, www.lgbt-helpline.ch. June - July 2017

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Shopping

A stroll down Bahnhofstrasse is a must for every shopping aficionado. | Zurich Tourism

Zurich has the reputation of a shopping city, even if not quite that of London or Milano. Especially Bahnhofstrasse is well known around the globe as one of the most exclusive and expensive shopping streets in the world. For Swiss and urban design, the area around Langstrasse is a good spot. In the way of shopping malls, Switzerland can’t match other European countries where huge centres are the order of the day. But maybe that’s a good thing. The Sihlcity shopping centre, an easily reachable mall opened in 2007, is an example of an innovative development - without being a giant. The shopping mall Glatt just outside the city limits is Switzerland’s most popular shopping mall. The malls and best shopping areas of the city are listed here together with other remarkable shops. Remember all shops are closed on Sundays except at the railway stations. For more suggestions check www.zurich.inyourpocket.com The main shopping areas are: Bahnhofstrasse (F-11/14)The Bahnhofstrasse leads from the main railway station to the lake and is mostly a pedestrian area almost without traffic - but watch out for the trams! It’s world-famous for its luxury stores: find jewellery, watches and designer boutiques as well as the big department stores Jelmoli, Globus and Manor here. In recent years not to everyone’s pleasure more and more big foreign companies like Apple have opened stores on Bahnhofstrasse displacing some traditional Zurich companies - some say Bahnhofstrasse is losing its atmosphere. Nevertheless a walk down this famous street is a must for every shopping fan. 46 Zurich In Your Pocket

Wander into the side streets as well, where shops are no less luxurious and some more unusual little gems are hidden. Niederdorf (G-11/13) Even if Niederdorf - the part of the old town east of the river Limmat - is better known for dining and nightlife than for shopping, it’s well worth expanding your shopping tour into this quarter. Along the streets Limmatquai and Niederdorfstrasse - both pedestrian areas - you will find smaller shops with up-to-date street wear, fancy shoes and fashion stores. The smaller alleys are also well worth a peek. Old Town (F/G-12/13) The old town between Bahnhofstrasse and the river Limmat is another shopping area not to miss. Try the pedestrian street Rennweg for example with its international clothing brands and boutiques or Storchengasse with its luxury designer stores as well as cutlery and souvenir shops.

OPENING HOURS Many shops on and around Bahnhofstrasse are open Mon to Fri 09:00 - 19:00 / 20:00. Smaller shops including jewellers and shops outside the centre often close at 18:30, some are closed on Monday mornings. On Saturdays most shops open from 09:00 - 17:00 (or 18:00, department stores until 20:00). On Sundays all shops are closed (except in train and petrol stations). Banking hours are Mon - Fri 08:30 - 16:30. zurich.inyourpocket.com


Shopping BOOKS, CRAFTS & MUSIC 16TONS With tons of new and second-hand vinyl records, mainly of the genres reggae, soul, rockabillly and dancehall, 16tons is one of the city’s first addresses for vinyl lovers.QC‑11, Anwandstrasse 25, 8Bäckeranlage, tel. (+41) 44 242 02 03, www.16tons.ch. Open 12:00 - 18:30, Sat 11:00 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. ORELL FÜSSLI - THE BOOKSHOP Zurich’s biggest English-language bookshop stocks thousands of fiction and non-fiction books, magazines, audio books and DVDs - and all in English. It’s located on the third floor of the Orell Füssli bookshop just off Bahnhofstrasse.QF‑12, Füsslistrasse 4 (3rd floor), 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 211 04 44, www.orellfussli.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

CHOCOLATE & SWEETS HONOLD LA CONFISERIE Since 1905 Honold Confiserie has been producing chocolate, cakes and pastries just next to Bahnhofstrasse. Their chocolate cake and the birchermüesli (oat flakes with fruits and yoghurt) are also well-known. The shop is also a coffee bar with a balcony on the first floor, so you can enjoy Honold’s sweets while watching busy shopping on Rennweg. QF‑12, Rennweg 53, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 211 52 58, www.honold.ch. Open 08:00 - 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. MAX CHOCOLATIER Originating from Lucerne, Max Chocolatier sell their sweet 100% natural delicacies in Zurich too - in their shop next to St. Peter church. They sell chocolates and pralines of outstanding quality. The chocolatiers make every piece by hand, whether it’s, say, bars of dark Madagascan chocolate with pumpkin seeds, creamy caramel delicacies or their own chocolate spread.QG‑13, Schlüsselgasse 12, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 251 03 33, www.maxchocolatier.com. Open 10:30 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon, Sun.

SHOPPING IN THE AIRSIDE CENTER AT ZURICH AIRPORT Zurich airport’s passenger area is a shopping centre too! And quite a large one, in fact: more than 60 shops are located in the Airside Center which is accessible only to passengers. Here you can find literally anything you might be looking for. Be it Swiss watches, fashion or souvenirs, it’s all there, Swiss as well as international brands of course. In the Zürich Duty Free Stores you can buy a varied range of perfumes and cosmetics, tobacco products, spirits, wines and chocolate creations from Lindt, Cailler or Toblerone. The many restaurants and bars serving Swiss and international specialties make the Airside Center complete. So if you arrive at the airport early - don’t worry. You can use the time to hunt around for that last gift or souvenir - or have a fine meal before you take off!QZurich Airport, www.lovezrh.com. Open 06:00 - 22:00.

DEPARTMENT STORES & MALLS GLATT This is Switzerland’s most popular shopping mall. There are typical Swiss shops as well as international brands – around 100 shops spread out across 43,000m², all under one roof. It’s located outside city limits, but it’s easy to get there. Take the S3, S9 or S12 train to Stettbach and from there tram 12 to the Glatt.QNeue Winterthurerstr. 99, Wallisellen, 8Glatt, tel. (+41) 44 839 42 42, www.glatt. ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. GLOBUS The Globus is a classic and stylish department store on Bahnhofstrasse: on six levels you can find everything for your beauty, the latest fashion from brands like Esprit, Marco Polo, Strellson and Dockers, shoes, watches, jewellery, travel bags, lingerie and much more. After strolling through the stories take a break in the pleasant restaurant on the top floor.QF‑11, Schweizergasse 11, 8Bahnhofstrasse/HB, tel. (+41) 58 578 11 11, www.globus.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Orell Füssli The Bookshop 3rd Floor, Füsslistrasse 4, 8001 Zürich +41 (0)44 211 04 44 English-orders@orellfuessli.ch

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Shopping SHOPPING AROUND LANGSTRASSE Shopping in Zurich is not just Bahnhofstrasse and the old town. There are other districts which are well worth a visit for shoppers - especially if you are hunting for some cool clothes and accessories and would like a break from the big global brands. The area around the southern end of Langstrasse in district n°4 (aka Chreis Cheib) definitely is such an area. Every few steps you come across another enticing little shop on Langstrasse or in the side streets. Generally it’s less glittery and glamourous here than on Bahnhofstrasse, but more urban and cosmopolitan with many young, Swiss labels. We list some of our favourites below. Langstrasse is closer than you think, and not only worth the visit for the nightlife!

MANOR Manor is probably the most casual of the trinity of department stores on Bahnhofstrasse. It specialises in young and casual fashion and sells its own brands as well as brands of renown - they have something for everyone’s needs.QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 75, 8Bahnhofstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 229 56 99, www.manor.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

FASHION DEECEE STYLE Leather jackets, denim jeans, travel bags and handmade shoes by international brands and much more - that’s what you’ll find at DeeCee Style. A shop for urban cowboys and fashion-conscious bankers alike. There is a girl’s section too. QF‑13, Talacker 21, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 43 497 35 85, www.deeceestyle.ch. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

KLEINBASEL / CLAUDIA GÜDEL These two labels both orginating from Basel operate a shop together in Zurich. While kleinbasel does simple, quite casual fashion for women and men (as well as bags for men and women), Claudia Güdel’s collection can be described as minimalistic but elegant (men and women). Her remarkable tunics seem to be her hallmark.QD‑11, Bäckerstrasse 56, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. (+41) 43 558 67 71, www.baeckerstrasse56.ch. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. OPIA This shop is dedicated to designer’s fashion and objects including street wear and shoes for urbanites. And they don’t have just fashion but accessories and perfumes too. It’s all presented in a modern and minimalist shop in the new Europaallee district.QB‑8, Lagerstrasse 72, 8Sihlpost / HB, tel. (+41) 43 243 32 82, www.opia.ch. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. THE GALLERY This is a shopping paradise for women - 20 fashion brands of renown such as Guess, Marc O’Polo, Coccinelle, G-Lab, Zoe Karssen or Trussardi are on offer. The store has sections for casual trendy, modern contemporary, affordable luxury, jeans fashion and accessories rather than being organised by brands. And while fashion is at the core of this store there are some lifestyle products like candles or pillows as well. They have monthly offers for beauty products and even food or beverages, to make your shopping experience that bit more exciting. Sister shop at Marktgasse 3/5 in the Niederdorf area.QF‑12, Löwenstrasse 40, 8Löwenplatz, tel. (+41) 43 343 95 71, www.thegalleryconcept.ch. Open 10:00 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. 48 Zurich In Your Pocket

An impressive selection of urban fashion at DeeCee Style.

PD

FIDELIO WOMEN If you’re looking for casual, but still stylish fashion for women, try Fidelio. They sell renowned labels like Acne, Iro, Myth, Thom Krom and their very own label fidelio.QF‑12, Münzplatz 1, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 211 13 11, www.fideliokleider.ch. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Mon 11:00 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. LOOQ A cool shop for avant-garde luxury fashion for men and women: special patterns and unusual materials by brands like Y’s by Yohji Yamamoto, Rundholz, Annette Görtz, Lilith and many more.QG‑13, Kirchgasse 3, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 43 233 03 30, www.looq.ch. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. MAISON GASSMANN Gassmann is an exquisite fashion house for women in the old town. They moved to a new location in summer 2016 and now have a modern spacious store. Find brands like Akris, Etro, Manoush and many more .QF‑13, Weinplatz 3, 8Paradeplatz / Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 211 08 37, www.maisongassmann.ch. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. zurich.inyourpocket.com


Shopping MICHAEL KORS ZURICH This is the Zurich boutique of the New York-born fashion designer Michael Kors. His internationally renowned brand is known for its ready-to-wear fashion for men and women as well its watches, shoes, accessories and even perfumes. His style can probably best be described as a mix of modern chic and timeless elegance.QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 54, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 43 497 30 90, www.michaelkors.ch. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

OUTDOOR CLOTHING & SPORTS

Time to take up sport again

Bahnhofstrasse 56 and Limmatquai 78 in Zurich. www.ochsport.ch

MAMMUT The Swiss producer of trekking and mountaineering equipment Mammut has a huge flagship store in Zurich. OXBLOOD SHOES On several stories you can browse through shoes, Oxblood mainly has top-quality business shoes on offer, most OCH_60x45_Anz_ZH_Pocket_e.indd 1 05.07.16 15:33 backpacks, sleeping bags, climbing gear and fashionable of them made of Shell Cordovan leather (from a particular clothing for outdoors sports and outdoor use in general. part of a horsehide) for a rich and glossy look. QE‑11, QF‑11, Löwenstrasse 60, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) Europaallee 19, 8Sihlpost / HB, www.oxbloodshoes.com. 43 233 00 66, www.mammut.ch. Open 09:30 - 19:00, Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun closed. Mon 12:00 - 19:00, Thu 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. STEFI TALMAN Closed Sun. Swiss designer Stefi Thalman built her reputation in the 1980ies with a half boot called Zip featuring a zipper OCH SPORT At Och Sport you’ll find just about everything for any kind of crossing the instep at an angle. Her collections of shoes and sports on three storeys: tennis, badminton, trekking, running, bags for women are still remarkable and are on offer in her skiing, swimming and much more - they have it all. On top own boutique in the upper part of the old town.QG‑13, of this huge choice, there is also fashion and outerwear - but Oberdorfstrasse 13, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) 44 252 81 10, sports definitely comes first here. Sister shop at Limmatquai www.stefitalman.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Mon 12:00 78.QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 56, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. 215 21 21, www.ochsport.ch. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Thu 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

SHOES & ACCESSORIES BENCI BROTHERS The former co-owner and designer of Navyboot Flaviano Bencivenga is back with a new shoe label. The Benci Brother’s pride are welted shoes for men, designed by them and manufactured by hand in Italy. They have all kinds of other shoes and accessories for men and women too. QF‑12, Sihlstrasse 33, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 43 497 25 60, www.bencibrothers.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

Stefi Talman doesn’t do just shoes, but wallets, too.

PD

oberdorfstrasse 13 . 8001 zürich . www.stefitalman.ch ST-zurichinyourpocket-1.indd 1 facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

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Shopping SWISS FABRICS BOUTIQUE CHRISTIAN FISCHBACHER For nearly 200 years this family-owned Swiss company has produced fine fabrics for luxurious interiors. Drop by its Zurich boutique to find everything from finest bed linen, duvets, pillows and cushions to carpets, accessories and bath textiles. All of the standard sizes are available here, but the staff can also take custom orders. They’ll also be happy to help you find the perfect interior fabrics to match your personality and your home.QF‑13, Kappelergasse 11, 8Börsenstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 211 57 47, www.fischbacher.com. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

Luxury Bedding Induldge yourself with the finest Swiss quality bed, bath & home products.

SWISS FOOD TRITT-KÄSE Dozens of different cheeses from all corners of Switzerland. Don’t be shy, ask for a taster! The sales staff will be happy to cut some for you.QD‑8, Limmatstrasse 231 (Im Viadukt), 8Dammweg, tel. (+41) 43 366 87 88, www.tritt.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Kappelergasse 11 8001 Zürich +41 44 211 57 47 www.fischbacher.com

SWISS DESIGN NEW DIE MACHEREI A local collective of young designers presents its bags, fashion and furniture in this small shop at the Langstrasse end of the Europaallee. Unlike similar endeavours, the designers themselves actually sell their products here. You can find Sputnik Zurich’s puristic and functional reflecting bags, baiushki’s plain brass jewellery, Eszett chairs or the fashion label MRK, which uses only leftover materials from the backlogs of sustainable Swiss companies. A chat with the designers is included here, so it’s a perfect glimpse into the local design scene.QD‑10, Lagerstrasse 104, 8Sihlpost/HB, www.diemacherei.ch. Open 10:00 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. XESS + BABA xess + baba has been synonymous with successfully designed Swiss knitwear for men and women since 1994 when Tina Grässli founded the label. Almost all of the patterned jackets, pullovers and dresses are reversible and can be worn either way thanks to a special knitting technique.QB‑11, Stauffacherstr. 178, 8Bäckeranlage, tel. (+41) 43 243 84 90, www.xessbaba.ch. Open 12:00 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun.

@InYourPocket 50 Zurich In Your Pocket

Find local design at Die Macherei.

PD

WELSCHLAND At this small delicatessen you can find all the specialities (sausages, cheese, wine, absinth...) of the Romandie, the French speaking western part of Switzerland, where people are said to be more relaxed than around Zurich.QC-12, Zweierstrasse 56, 8Bahnhof Wiedikon, tel. (+41) 43 243 98 50, www.welschland.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.

SOUVENIRS DOLMETSCH They offer classic Swiss souvenirs and gifts such as the Swiss army knives from Victorinox, many watch brands as well as a large choice of Swiss textiles like T-Shirts and outdoor fashion. Free engraving service on Victorinox knives for customers directly in the shop. Sister shop Swiss Shop 1291 at ShopVille underground at the main railway station.QG‑11, Limmatquai 126, 8Central, tel. (+41) 44 251 55 44, www.dolmetsch.ch. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00, in summer Fri & Sat 09:00 - 22:00. zurich.inyourpocket.com


Shopping TEDDY’S SOUVENIR-SHOP At Teddy’s they have a wide range of souvenirs and gifts. Whether it’s watches, cowbells, hats, music boxes, soft toys, pocket knives or clothes you’re after: you’ll find it all at their shop on Limmatquai, just next to the church Grossmünster. And it’s not just souvenirs of Zurich, like beer glasses with the city’s coat of arms, but from all over Switzerland. For example the sännechutte, a traditional shirt worn by alpine herdsmen since days of yore. And yes, this souvenir shop is open even on Sundays.QG‑13, Limmatquai 34, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 261 22 89, www.teddyssouvenirshop.ch. Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 17:00. MENG CUTLERY Meng Cutlery just off Bahnhofstrasse offers classic Swiss souvenirs such as army knives by the famous brand Victorinox. Also in stock: other knives, scissors, watches and more ideas for gifts to take home. Sister shop at Poststrasse 4 (E-4).QF‑12, Rennweg 31, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 211 18 48, www.mengcutlery.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. MESSER-SCHARF Pocket knives are part of Swiss cultural heritage, and messer-scharf takes great pride in this heritage. You’ll find an extensive range of knives and other products by Victorinox and Wenger, such as kitchen implements, watches or rucksacks. messer-scharf also stock high-end kitchen knives by Chroma.QG‑13, Oberdorfstrasse 25, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 251 01 20, www.messer -scharf.ch. Open 09:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 18:00. Closed Sun. SCHWEIZER HEIMATWERK Swiss handcrafted souvenirs of high quality: fashion accessories, toys, bells, books and fondue sets all with lots of Swiss crosses, red and white colours, cows and edelweiss. Sister shop at Bahnhofstrasse 2.QG‑12, Uraniastrasse 1, Swiss Shop 1291 Entrance Bahnhofstrasse 8001 Zürich, Shop Ville tel. +41 44 211 61 32 www.swiss-shop-1291.ch

8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. (+41) 44 222 19 55, www.heimatwerk.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 18:00. Closed Sun. VICTORINOX FLAGSHIP STORE This is the Zurich flagship store by Victorinox, the Swiss family business of world renown. They may be best known for their Swiss army knives, but they also produce other high-quality items like cutlery, watches, travel gear and fashion - which is all in stock at this store of course.QF‑12, Rennweg 58, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 229 60 70, www.victorinox.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:30 18:30. Closed Sun. ZÜRICHFOTO.CH Photographer Rolf Müllestein sells souvenirs of Zurich beyond army knives and cow bells: authentic black and white pictures of the city of Zurich, the old town, the lake. QG‑13, Kirchgasse 32, 8Kunsthaus, tel. (+41) 44 251 21 45, www.zuerichfoto.ch. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. EDELWEISS SHOP At the Edelweiss shop, they have a huge choice of souvenirs and gifts including clothing (with lots of Swiss crosses of course!), toys, bags, watches army knives and much more. QF‑11, Bahnhofplatz, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 43 497 23 80, www.edelweiss-shops.ch. Open daily 08:00 - 21:30. funny Swiss souvenirs and Swiss textiles. We have largest range of Victorinox famous Swiss knives and engrave all knives for free in our shops within few minutes. We also sell most famous Swiss made watches.

Limmatquai 126, 8001 Zürich tel. +41 44 251 55 44 www.swiss-shop-1291.ch

Auswahl an Souvenirs und Schweizer T-Shirts, sowie Victorinox Taschenmesser und Swiss Made Uhren. Wir gravieren bei uns gekaufte Messer kostenlos vor Ihren Augen.

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Luxury fashion Although there are dozens of reasons to visit Zurich, one of the best is a chance to do some luxury shopping. Whether you’re a dedicated fashionista or just enjoy browsing, Zurich has all of the world’s most sought-after brands from Prada and Louis Vuitton to Dior and Armani. Many of the best labels can be found on Bahnhofstrasse and Storchengasse, the Swiss equivalent of New York’s Fifth Avenue.

Bahnhofstrasse is Zurich’s most famous shopping area. www.juanrubiano.com

1 BOGNER

This German brand was founded in 1932 and made its name with high-end winter sports fashion. Today Bogner offers ready-to-wear collections for men and women. QF‑13, In Gassen 18, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 211 42 49, www.bogner.com. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. 2 BURBERRY This British luxury fashion house is most famous for its trademark trench coats and iconic check patterns. It offers outerwear and accessories for both sexes.QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 44, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 221 05 18, www.burberry.com. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Thu 09:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 18:00. Closed Sun. 3 CÉLINE This French label has shaped the fashion world in recent years with its neo-minimalist approach introduced by influential British designer Phoebe Philo.QG‑13, Storchengasse 23, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 43 344 72 60, www.celine.com. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

6 DOLCE & GABBANNA Dolce & Gabbana love flower prints, sumptuous accessories and body-hugging designs. Explore its latest luxury fashion collections for men, women and kids.QF‑14, Bahnhofstrasse 10, 8Börsenstrasse, tel. (+41) 43 497 35 04, www.dolcegabbana.com. 7 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA This family-owned Italian label produces high quality, elegant suits for men and its fine accessories such as wallets and belts are no less exquisite.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 25, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 43 344 70 90, www.zegna.ch. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. 8 GIORGIO ARMANI Giorgio Armani creates elegance through his straight lines and trademark colours. You’ll find his lines Emporio Armani, Giorgio Armani and Armani Jeans here.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 25, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 43 960 08 00, www.armani.com. 9 JIL SANDER Jil Sander’s minimalistic approach to fashion has been revamped by current designer Rodolfo Paglialunga at this store featuring collections for men and women.QG‑13, Storchengasse 16, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 43 344 86 70, www.jilsander.com. 10 LONGCHAMP Longchamp’s luxury leather goods are known the world over, especially its bags for men and women. Wallets, luggage and women’s fashion are also available.QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 58, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 213 10 80, www.longchamp.com. Open 09:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 17:00. Closed Sun. 11 LORO PIANA Loro Piana designs luxurious ready-to-wear fashion for men and women with its very own fine fabrics which radiate an air of timeless Italian elegance.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 26, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 43 497 23 00, www.loropiana.com. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

4 CHANEL Chanel has come a long way since its first shop opened in 1909. Today, Karl Lagerfeld designs haute couture and readyto-wear collections for women.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 39, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 43 330 31 00, www.chanel.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. 5 DIOR French label Dior is the epitome for luxurious modern elegance and its boutique in Zurich features all of the latest fashion and accessories for women.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 13, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 215 68 80, www.dior.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

52 Zurich In Your Pocket

Burberry’s famous trench coats on display.

PD

zurich.inyourpocket.com


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Trois Pommes is one of the most luxurious boutiques in Zurich and only the finest fashion, shoes and accessories by the most exquisite brands are sold here. QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 18, tel. (+41) 44 211 09 43, www.troispommes.ch. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 18:00. Closed Sun.

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17 TOM FORD This was the first Tom Ford shop to open outside the US and you’ll find anything from fragrances and shoes to shirts and suits here as well as women’s fashion.QG‑13, Münsterhof 17, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 221 02 50, www.troispommes.ch. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Sun 09:30 -18:00.

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Family owned since its founding in 1928, Slavatore Ferragamo is known for exquisite shoes, leather goods, wallets and accessories as well as silk products.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 40, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 211 23 91, www.ferragamo.com.

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14 MULBERRY Mulberry has a shop on Zurich’s Storchengasse where women can find the latest collections of its playful dresses, stylish jackets and smart leather bags.QG‑13, Storchengasse 4, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 43 497 36 10, www.mulberry.com. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. 15 PRADA Prada offers 1000m2 of stylish men and women’s fashion, shoes, trademark leather bags and other accessories spread across three floors on Bahnhofstrasse.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 42, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 91 986 64 00, www.prada.com.

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This French label is renowned for its sophisticated quilted down jackets and coats. It also sells knitwear and accessories like bags and gloves for both sexes.QG‑13, Storchengasse 8, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 43 497 20 30, www.moncler.com.

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12 LOUIS VUITTON Löwenplatz The Louis Vuitton store on Bahnhofstrasse offers its latest collection for women, shoes for both sexes, bags, watches, sunglasses, jewellery and much more.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 30, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 221 11 00, www.louisvuitton.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

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One of the world’s most sought-after fashion labels offers the latest women’s collections including shoes, purses and fashionable eyewear at this boutique.QG‑13, Storchengasse 12, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 216 80 20, www.valentino.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

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Watches & Jewellery Switzerland is the country of watches - yet another cliché? Actually, it couldn’t be more true. More than 95% of all watches with a value of over 1000Sfr are made in Switzerland! The Swiss watch industry started off in Geneva around 1600, founded by Huguenots who had fled France. Zurich however is a prime shopping spot for watches today. Whether on busy Bahnhofstrasse or in a quieter corner, you will find a huge selection of brands and models here. The next couple of pages will guide you! BEYER WATCHES & JEWELLERY For more than 250 years Beyer has been selling and repairing watches. The family business is now managed by the eighth generation. Beyer specializes in selling some of the world’s most sought-after brands, such as Patek Philippe, Rolex, Breguet, Hublot, IWC, Chopard and Cartier, as well as its own Beyer brand. The neighbouring Patek Philippe boutique is also managed by Beyer and offers a wide range of exclusive timepieces.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 31, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 43 344 63 63, www.beyer-ch.com. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Sat 09:30 16:00. Closed Sun. BUCHERER Jewellery and Swiss watch boutique established in 1888. Top brands like Rolex, IWC, Longines and Rado as well as their own brand Carl F. Bucherer.QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 50, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 211 26 35, www.bucherer.com. Open 09:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

DEGUSSA GOLDHANDEL (GOLD & SILVER) At Degussa, you can invest in gold and silver and other basic materials. They have their trademark bars and ingots on stock for you - choose them in their Zurich showroom. Their gold bars for example come in sizes from 1 to 1000 grams, the ones up to a size of 100 grams are minted, the heavier ones come in the classic cast form. Other than gold and silver they sell rhodium, platinum and palladium bars and many investment coins from around the world.QE‑14, Bleicherweg 41, 8Tunnelstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 403 41 10, www.degussa -goldhandel.ch. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. GÜBELIN Since 1854 Gübelin have been selling jewellery, watches and precious stones. You will find their own jewellery lines New York, Madagascar, Paris and Atlantis as well as many renowned watch brands such as IWC Schaffhausen and Jaeger-LeCoultre.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 36, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 387 52 20, www.guebelin.ch. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Sun. KURZ JEWELLERY AND WATCHES Kurz have a large selection of jewellery e.g. by Chopard and from their own workshops, as well as a broad range of mainly Swiss watch brands like Omega, Zenith, Maurice Lacroix, Tissot, Rado and many more (sister shop at Globus, Schweizergasse 11, outlet store on Uraniastrasse 26). QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 80, 8Bahnhofstrasse/HB, tel. (+41) 44 219 77 77, www.kurzschmuckuhren.ch. Open 09:15 - 18:30, Sat 09:15 - 17:00. Closed Sun. LES AMBASSADEURS Find a large selection of Swiss watches and jewellery at Les Ambassadeurs store. They have long established partnerships with leading brands such as Audemars Piguet, Blancpain, Breguet, Breitling, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Jaquet Droz, Longines, Vacheron Constantin, Omega as well as Pasquale Bruni and Pomellato. Their sales staff provide expert advice in many languages.QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 64, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 227 17 17, www.lesambassadeurs.ch. Open 09:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

Les Ambassadeurs, one of many watch boutiques on Bahnhofstrasse.

PD

CHRIST WATCHES & JEWELRY With more than 70 shops, CHRIST is the biggest jeweler in Switzerland. Find top watch brands like Rado, Tag Heuer, Certina, Frederique Constant and their very own CHRIST Swiss Made as well as many fashion jewels. There are sister shops at the department stores St. Annahof (Bahnhofstrasse 57, F-12), Jelmoli (Seidengasse 1, F-12) and the shopping centre Sihlcity (Kalanderplatz 1, F-12). QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 78, 8Bahnhofstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 212 14 47, www.christ-swiss.ch. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. 54 Zurich In Your Pocket

MEISTER Upmarket watches and in-house repair service. Brands include Vacheron Constantin, Hublot, Ulysse Nardin, Blancpain and TAG Heuer. Jewellery store and silverware. QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 33, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 211 19 33, www.meister-zurich.ch. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. MONTBLANC ZURICH Watches, writing instruments and leather goods is what built Montblanc’s world renown. And though the company was founded in Germany it’s part of the Swiss Richemont group now and the watches are manufactured in Switzerland. In their exquisite boutique on Bahnhofstrasse you will find the personal service you can expect of a brand like Montblanc.QF-13, Bahnhofstrasse 25, 8Paradeplatz, zurich.inyourpocket.com


Watches & Jewellery tel. (+41) 44 211 48 10, www.montblanc.ch. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. PARTIME This Swiss designer watch simultaneously shows the time of day and how much of the day is left. The blue area within a circle represents the amount of time still remaining in the day, while a white area gradually eats into the blue. Find it at Teddy’s Souvenir Shop and the retailers indicated on page 56 - or ask for an express delivery to your hotel. QG‑13, Teddy’s Souvenir Shop, Limmatquai 34, tel. (+41) 43 422 00 11, www.partimewatch.com. TISSOT BOUTIQUE The traditional Swiss watchmaker Tissot has its very own boutique on Zurich’s Bahnhofstrasse. Find all their latest watches for men and women in their modern salesrooms. QF‑11, Bahnhofstrasse 94, 8Bahnhofstrasse/HB, tel. (+41) 44 221 28 66, www.tissot.ch. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

W W! Welcome to Switzerland’s first destination for watches and jewelry with a selection of more than 50 exclusive brands.

TÜRLER Come here to see the famous Türler clock - next to the entrance of the shop it doesn’t simply indicate seconds and minutes but the whole movement of the cosmos, the planets and the horizon as well. Of course, they sell watches and jewellery too: Audemars Piguet and Longines or Blancpain and Breguet.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 28, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 221 06 08, www.tuerler.ch. Open 09:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun. NEW ZEIT MEISTER This boutique right at Stauffacher is a specialist for watches (e.g. Rado, Tag Heuer, Mido) and jewellery, be it custommade in their studio or brands like Pera and Tomas Sabo. QD‑12, Badenerstrasse 16 - 18, 8Staufacher, tel. (+41) 44 242 30 30, www.zeit-meister.ch. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Thu 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

TAX FREE SHOPPING As a foreign resident you are entitled to a refund when making purchases for more than 300Sfr (including VAT), provided the goods leave the country within 30 days. You will get back the VAT, which in Switzerland is only 8% - minus a handling fee. It’s as easy as this: watch out for the Global Blue - Tax Free sign. When paying, ask for a tax refund form. When leaving Switzerland, present your purchases, receipts and passport to Swiss customs officials. They will stamp your tax refund form. To claim an immediate refund, present your stamped tax refund form at a Global Blue refund point (e.g. at Zurich Airport or all around Europe). For more infos see www​.global-blue​.com. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

www.christ-swiss.ch

INTERL AKEN | LUZERN | ZÜRICH | GENF | L AUSANNE | MONTREUX | LOCARNO

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A. Lange & Söhne Audemars Piguet Balmain Baume & Mercier Bell & Ross Beyer Blancpain Breguet Breitling Bulgari Cartier Certina Charriol Chopard Corum De Grisogono Ebel Eterna Franck Muller Girard Perregaux Hublot IWC Schaffhausen Jaquet Droz Jaeger-LeCoultre Jowissa Longines Louis Erard Maurice Lacroix Mido Mondaine Movado Omega Oris Parmigiani Fleurier Patek Philippe Piaget Quinting Rado Raymond Weil Rolex Swatch Swiss Military TAG Heuer Tiffany Tissot Ulysse Nardin Urwerk Victorinox Swiss Army Vulcain Wenger Zenith Zurich Partime

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La Serlas, Bahnhofstrasse 25

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Kurz, Bahnhofstrasse 80

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IWC Schaffhausen, Bahnhofstrasse 61

Christ at Jelmoli, Seidengasse 1

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Heinicke, Limmatquai 32

Christ, Bahnhofstrasse 78

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Chopard Boutique, Bahnhofstrasse 40

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Galli, Theaterstrasse 16

Central Jewellery, Limmatquai 140

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Feist Daniel, Seefeldstrassse 45

Cartier Joailliers, Pelikanstrasse 6

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Dolmetsch, Limmatquai 126

Bulgari, Bahnhofstrasse 25

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Christian Uhren Schmuck, Limmatplatz 1

Breguet, Bahnhofstrasse 31

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Bucherer, Bahnhofstrasse 50

Airbijoux, Bahnhofstrasse 1

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Affolter Max, Limmatquai 82

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Tiffany & Co, Bahnhofstrasse 14

Tissot Boutique, Bahnhofstrasse 94

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Leisure There are plenty of things to do in and around Zurich. Show your friends and colleagues who’s boss with a competitive game of laser tag or show off your smarts in an escape room.

ANIMAL PARKS ZURICH ZOO Zurich Zoo is located on Zürichberg high above the city. The pride of this zoological garden which was opened in 1929 is the Masoala Rainforest hall, simulating the ecosystem in the Masoala National park in Madagascar on some 10,000sqm. Animals like lemurs or giant tortoises can move freely around in the hall as you watch and walk by on a path through the forest. But the rainforest is not the only thing worth seeing. Since 1992 Zurich Zoo has gradually been changing the traditional-style enclosures into whole ecosystems which better meet the animals’ needs, the latest being the new 11,000sqm elephant park. QZürichbergstrasse 221, 8Zoo, tel. (+41) 848 96 69 83, www.zoo.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Masoala hall opens all year at 10:00. Admission 26/19 (16 - 25 years)/13Sfr, free for kids up to 5 years.

FUN & GAMES ZURICHESCAPE Escape games seem to be popping up all over the place. The basic idea is simple. You and your team are locked in a room and have 60 minutes to reach the exit. You achieve this by solving puzzles, finding hidden objects and working together as a team. At ZurichEscape you can choose between three different rooms, each with its own theme. In addition to this, it also offers both indoor and outdoor escape missions. For these you’ll have to leave the premises to solve the riddles and accomplish the task. Games are meant for two to six players. No German is needed as solutions are primarily found using symbols and numbers and the rules are explained in English beforehand. Book a time slot on its website.QD‑11, Zeughausstrasse 51, 8Sihlpost/Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 43 317 19 19, www.zurichescape.ch. First game starts daily 09:00, last one at 21:00. Book slots on its website. Prices start at 90Sfr and depend on the room, the time and the size of the group.

LASER ARENA Yay! Zurich finally has laser tag! Hide behind obstacles on different floors and tag as many of your opponents with your laser gun as possible to score points. But watch out, or you might get tagged yourself. That said, it’s worth mentioning that unlike paintball, this is a completely harmless game, so no protective gear is required. All you need is a laser gun and a sensor on your chest to play. The Laser Arena is a big space that can accommodate up to 24 players and you can play with two big teams or split up into smaller groups. A game lasts 12 minutes and the person or team with the highest score wins. Make a reservation on its website or just drop by to have some laser fun.QD‑15, Brandschenkestrasse 178, 8Waffenplatzstrasse, tel. (+41) 848 31 23 12, www.laser-arena.ch. Open Wed 14:00 - 22:00, Thu 18:00 - 22:00, Fri 18:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue. One 12-minute game costs 15Sfr for adults and 12Sfr for children under 16 years. ESCAPE QUEST At Escape Quest you choose between five different escape games, each with its own puzzles. Games are available for two to six players. No German is needed as solutions are primarily found using symbols and numbers and the rules are explained in English. Book a time slot on its website. QK‑13, Titlisstrasse 41, 8Römerhof, tel. (+41) 44 261 11 55, www.escapequest.ch. Prices start at 90Sfr.

WHY DO YOU PLAY LASER TAG? BECAUSE PLAYING LASER TAG IS AWESOME!

Brandschenkestrasse 178 8002 Zürich 58 Zurich In Your Pocket

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Zurich for kids Are we there yet?! Children have their own idea of how to have a good time and stylish bars or Gothic cathedrals may not exactly do the trick. But no fear, there’s plenty to do with children in Zurich. Find more suggestions on www.zurich.inyourpocket.com.

MUSEUMS ZOOLOGICAL AND PALEONTOLOGICAL MUSEUMS OF THE UNIVERSITY OF ZURICH A giant sloth waits just beyond the entrance here, but luckily it’s only a reconstruction, so you can even stroke it. Animals large and small are displayed stuffed or as skeletons: jaguars, kangaroos, platypuses, giant crabs. You’ll be amazed what exists in the animal kingdom. Insects can be viewed under a microscope, and your children and you can listen to the songs of 280 different birds, and see them as well. The paleontological section features marine dinosaurs from when Switzerland was covered by an ocean, as well as giant ammonite fossils, land dinosaurs like triceratops and skeletons of woolly mammoths. No café, but a rest area where you can eat your own food.QH‑11, Karl Schmid-Strasse 4, 8ETH/Universitätsspital, tel. (+41) 44 634 38 38, www.zm.uzh.ch. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.

PARKS & SPORTS Little guests need room to jump and run. Not to mention swim, skate or canoe. The most central playground is next to Lindenhof (p.40, G-12) and there is a large one next to the Chinese garden.

Nothing beats a jump into the lake.

Zurich Tourism (CM)

GEMEINSCHAFTSZENTREN The 17 community centres, called Gemeinschaftszentren, are co-funded by the city. They function as a meeting point for the residents of a district and can be visited by anyone for free. They usually have a playground for kids and a little café-bar. A visit is sure to be fun for you and your kids, not just because you are likely to meet other families there. Here we list some cool and more central ones, see www.gzzh.ch for all locations. They are usually open 10:00 - 18:00 and some 14:00 - 17:00/18:00 on the weekend: • GZ Schindlergut, Kronenstrasse 12, +41 44 365 24 40 • GZ Wipkingen, Breitensteinstrasse 19 a, +41 44 276 82 80 • GZ Wollishofen, Bachstrasse 70, +41 43 243 11 37 Qtel. (+41) 43 300 60 00, www.gz-zh.ch.

PUBLIC LAKE BATHS MYTHENQUAI Sandy beaches, ice cream, table tennis - you’ll find it all at Mythenquai, a large lido with all you could ask for. There’s a large non-swimming area in the lake with large water toys, ball playing areas and diving boards for those who dare. Parents may be more interested in the deck chairs and sunshades that can be borrowed for free, you just leave a deposit.QMythenquai 95, 8Brunaustrasse, tel. (+41) 44 201 00 00. Open 09:00 - 20:00 (May 13 - Sept 17, 2017), weather permitting (open with every weather daily 09:00 - 11:00). Admission 8/6/4Sfr.

SHOPS FRANZ CARL WEBER This is the toy shop to visit in the city centre conveniently located right next to the main station. There’s virtually anything you might desire on two huge floors from first toys for newborns to tech toys for grown-ups, not to mention books and a small candy shop – the aptly-named Lollipop. Your kids will absolutely love the slide that connects the first level with the ground floor. QF‑12, Bahnhofplatz 9, 8Bahnhofplatz/HB, tel. (+41) 44 225 78 78, www.fcw.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Thu, Fri 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

Welcome to the most famous paradise of toys for children, since 1881. Bahnhofplatz 9 • 8001 Zürich 044 225 78 78 • fcw.ch June - July 2017

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Day trips

UNIQUE SWISS MOUNTAIN ARCHITECTURE BY HERZOG & DE MEURON ONE HOUR FROM ZURICH

If you have some more time on your hands you might want to explore a bit further afield and leave Zurich for a day. With the warm weather here, it’s time to discover Switzerland’s stunning landscapes. Many scenic destinations also offer cultural sites. We’ve put together a selection of our favourites. And there are plenty of other options to consider such as museums, monasteries and thermal baths. For more recommendations check www.zurich.inyourpocket.com.

MOUNTAINS & NATURE

W W W.CH A E S E R RU G G .CH

VIEW TO A THRILL Explore Mt. Rigi now!

OPEN SKY Fully included in the Swiss Travel Pass

60 Zurich In Your Pocket

FLUMSERBERG High above lake Walensee, Flumserberg is an easy-to-reach mountain destination between Zurich and the Grison Alps in eastern Switzerland. More than 150 kilometres of hiking trails, biking trails of all levels of difficulty, the summer toboggan run FLOOMZER and a large climbing tower CLiiMBER await you for action. But it’s also a nice destination for calm walks with great mountain views. After a 60-minute train ride to Unterterzen (change trains in Ziegelbrücke if necessary), a cable car takes you up to Tannenboden, from where you have access to all the fun. In 2017 cable cars, toboggan run and climbing tower are open daily from June 10 until October 23, before June 10 weekends only. Check its website before you go.QBergbahnen, Flumserberg, tel. (+41) 81 720 15 15, www.flumserberg.ch. Many different price options, check its website. MOUNT CHÄSERRUGG - TOGGENBURG Toggenburg, a beautiful valley in the canton of St. Gallen, is a pleasant destination for a day trip to the foothills of the Alps where the hills are actually quite high. Public transport will get you from Zurich to Unterwasser (change to a bus at Buchs SG) from where you have access to the cable car to Iltios and Mount Chäserrugg (2262m). At the top there’s a restaurant built by renowned Swiss architects Herzog & de Meuron and a panorama trail with stunning views of Lake Walensee and the Alps. On a clear day you can see as many as six different countries and there are hiking options for all fitness levels. A stop at the playground at Iltios makes this family day trip completeQToggenburg Bergbahnen AG, Unterwasser, tel. (+41) 71 998 68 10, www.chaeserrugg.ch. Cable car to Iltios runs in 2017 daily from May 25; upper section to Chäserrugg starts its summer season May 25 28, June weekends only, daily from June 24 - October 22. Return cable car ticket to Chäserrugg 58/29Sfr. RIGI - MOUNTAIN WITH A VIEW Mount Rigi (from regina, Latin for queen) is famous for spectacular views of the Alps and the easy access. The majestic mountain lies between Lake Lucerne, Lake Zug and Lake Lauerz. Don’t forget to bring a jacket as it can be chilly at 1,800 metres above sea level. There are two cogwheel railways going up the Rigi from two different sides, one starting in Arth-Goldau, the other one in Vitznau. The cogwheel railway leaving from Vitznau is Europe’s first zurich.inyourpocket.com


Day trips mountain railway. At the top there are several restaurants, around 120 kilometres of hiking trails and covered picnic and barbecue spots. Hikers have the option of walking down just part of the way, as the train has several stops where you can jump back on. The fastest way from Zurich is to take a train to Arth-Goldau (duration 40 minutes) from where the cogwheel train takes you to the top in another 40 minutes.QRigi Bahnen AG, Vitznau, tel. (+41) 41 399 87 87, www.rigi.ch. From Vitznau roughly from 09:00 - 22:00. From Weggis daily from 08:00 - 19:00. From Arth-Goldau from 08:00 - 18:00. Check website for exact timetables. Return ticket to Rigi (so called daypass) 72/36Sfr.

The beautiful view from Chäserrugg.

PD

CULTURE & HERITAGE BALLENBERG - SWISS OPEN-AIR MUSEUM In this open-air museum close to Brienz, in the Bernese Alps, you can explore ancient rural Swiss architecture, oldtime gardens and craftwork of times long past. Dozens of centuries-old buildings from all over Switzerland were collected and rebuilt on site. There are also around 250 farm animals on site, e.g. hens, ducks, geese, rabbits, goats and cattle. The journey from Zurich by train and bus takes around 2.5 hours.QMuseumsstrasse 131, Hofstetten, tel. (+41) 33 952 10 30, www.ballenberg.ch. Open from April 13 to October 31, 2017, 10:00 - 17:00. Admission 24/12Sfr, families 54Sfr.

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MOUNTAIN TOURS BEST OF SWITZERLAND TOURS Day trips organised by tour operators are an easy way to explore Switzerland and its gorgeous mountains. Forget the hassle with timetables, itineraries and the like. Just snuggle into your bus seat and let them guide you through the day. Best of Switzerland tours for example offers daily trips from Zurich to Pilatus, Rigi, Titlis and Jungfraujoch. For instance you can take the rotating gondola up to Titlis (more than 3000 metres asl), where an encounter with ice, snow and a glacier await you. They also have a city tour to Luzern. Just check their website for available tours and book up to a day before - online or by phone. The tour busses leave from the Zurich Bus terminal Sihlquai, just next to the Hauptbahnhof (main train station, F-10). Qwww.switzerland-tours.ch, tel. (+41) 44 710 50 50. ENEA TREE MUSEUM (BAUMMUSEUM) The world’s first and only tree museum is located on Lake Zurich, close to Rapperswil-Jona. A selection of trees from the collection of Swiss landscape architect and tree collector Enzo Enea are on display at the 75,000sqm park. By creating a series of open spaces the architect has shown how trees can be used as space creating objects while using their aesthetics and paying respect to the absolutely vital function they serve. With this museum Enea thoroughly combined his vision of merging architecture, landscapes, botany, art and design. The museum boasts over 50 trees from more than 25 species and a further 100 trees and plants are located in the park surrounding the tree museum. Since 2013, sculptures by contemporary artists have been on display in the park, creating a unique choreography of art work and trees. A beautiful and definitely rather special experience.QBuechstrasse 12, Jona, tel. (+41) 55 225 55 55, www.enea.ch/baummuseum. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Admission 15/12Sfr. To get there from Zurich take a train to Rapperswil, than bus 622 to Buechstrasse West or St. Dionys (48 minutes all in all).

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Hotels SYMBOL KEY P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted T Child-friendly

H Conference facilities

R Internet in room U Facilities for the disabled F Fitness centre

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WIDDER The fabulous Widder is situated in nine former residential houses in the mediaeval old town, with the prestigious Bahnhofstrasse just around the corner. Each of the 49 rooms is different in layout and atmosphere. Many have traces of historical paintings which were brought to new life when the hotel was built in over ten years of work. Some rooms have modern elements which contrast with the ancient walls and beams. Others are furnished with antiques and look more classical. Some rooms have a private roof terrace with views over the old town towards the lake and the Alps. Naturally they all have the latest entertainment technology and bathrooms to dream of.QF‑12, Rennweg 7, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 224 25 26, fax (+41) 44 224 24 24, www.widderhotel.ch. 49 rooms. P­J­H­ A­R­6­U­F­L­K­W hhhhh

UPMARKET Zurich is a business destination first and foremost and hotel rates reflect that. From Friday night to Monday morning, prices often drop sharply. Why not take advantage of this and spend a weekend in one of the many four- and five-star hotels in the city? Despite this, accommodation in Zurich remains rather pricey and real budget accommodation is rare. But nevertheless there is something for any taste and almost any budget. In Switzerland hotels are officially categorized with stars from one to five. The categorization is done by hotelleriesuisse, the national hoteliers association. A hotel can also receive the supplement ‘superior’, indicating a higher level of service and quality. We list the hotels according to their official classification in the following categories: Cream of the Crop*****, Upmarket****, Midrange*** and Budget (0 to **). Outside this classification we list pensions - usually small and with less services than a hotel - and some of the hostels in town. Find more hotels on www.zurich.inyourpocket.com.

CONTINENTAL ZÜRICH Entering this four-star hotel in a modern building just one tram stop away from the main train station you may be surprised by the Swiss chalet style with the generous use of wood. All rooms combine modern comforts with traditional chalet décor. For additional seating and desk space, free minibar and ironing services, take a superior room. On the first floor you’ll find the bar and diner L’entupada which serves small meals and drinks in an elegant atmosphere.QG‑10, Stampfenbachstrasse 60, 8Stampfenbachplatz, tel. (+41) 44 360 60 60, fax (+41) 44 360 60 61, www.continentalzurich.ch. 138 rooms. P­J­H­A­6­U­L­K­W hhhh

CREAM OF THE CROP THE DOLDER GRAND Set high above the city, the five-star superior Dolder Grand is probably the city’s most exclusive hotel. In 2008 British architect Norman Foster added two meandering wings to the fairy-tale-castle main building from 1899 with its turrets and balconies. The result is an amazing mix of modernity and tradition. And no matter in which part of the hotel you book your room, the comfort and the amenities offered are uncountable. Either modern design and generous floor-to-ceiling windows in the new wings or the sense of history in the main building. The sumptuous 4,000sqm in-house spa, the exquisite ballroom and art from Warhol to Dalì are just some of the elements that make this a truly extraordinary hotel. QKurhausstrasse 65, 8Römerhof, tel. (+41) 44 456 60 00, fax (+41 )44 456 60 01, www.thedoldergrand.com. 175 rooms. P­H­A­R­6­U­F­L­K­D­C­W hhhhh 62 Zurich In Your Pocket

The cutting-edge Widder Hotel in the old town.

PD

CROWNE PLAZA The Crowne Plaza is situated close to the Letzigrund stadium 13 minutes (8 stops) from the city centre by tram. The 365 rooms come in a mix of bright and light brown hues, with either a queen-size or two twin-size beds, a shower or a bathtub and free tea and coffee making facilities. Upgrade your room to a deluxe for more work space and a couch lounge. For lunch or dinner, the two in-house restaurants Relais des Arts and Letzileu tend to your needs. QBadenerstrasse 420, 8Letzigrund, tel. (+41) 44 404 44 44, fax (+41) 44 404 44 40, www.cpzurich.ch. 365 rooms. P­H­A­R­6­U­F­L­B­K­W hhhh zurich.inyourpocket.com


Hotels SORELL ZÜRICHBERG This architectural jewel high above Zurich lies at the edge of the forest and yet is just 15 minutes by tram from the main railway station and the lake. The view up here is thrilling, with the city, the lake and the crests of the Alps all visible from the generous veranda. The hotel is a combination of two different parts, a splendid Jugendstil building and a spiral annex in contemporary design by Zurich architects Burkhalter & Sumi. The rooms are modern and brightly coloured. No air-conditioning.QL‑9, Orellistrasse 21, 8Zoo, tel. (+41) 44 268 35 35, fax (+41) 44 268 35 45, www.zuerichberg.ch. 66 rooms. H­A­6­UL ­ ­B­ K­W hhhh

A cruise boat on the river in front of the old town. Zurich Tourism (GB)

GLÄRNISCHHOF In the financial district and just off Bahnhofstrasse, the Glärnischhof has classically decorated standard rooms with blue or grey carpets, a desk and a red leather armchair. In the comfort category you get more space and a toilet separated from the bathroom. Guests have free entrance to the Luxor Fitness Centre in the same building which includes a sauna, a solarium and a whirlpool. On the weekends you can book the junior suites as specially decorated Loverooms for a romantic weekend with your beloved. On the ground floor the restaurant Le Poisson serves fish specialities.QF‑14, Claridenstrasse 30, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 286 22 22, fax (+41) 44 286 22 86, www.hotelglaernischhof.ch. 62 rooms. P­J­HA ­ ­R­6­F­L­K­W hhhh KRONE UNTERSTRASS Just three stops by tram from the main train station and the city centre, this four-star hotel is conveniently located for leisure and business stays. The Langstrasse district with popular bars and restaurants is in walking distance. The rooms are bright and modern and rates are moderate. There is a Mediterranean restaurant and a separate bar.QF‑8, Schaffhauserstrasse 1, 8Kronenstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 360 56 56, fax (+41) 44 360 56 00, www.hotel-krone.ch. 76 rooms. P­H­A6 ­ ­U­L­K­W hhhh SCHWEIZERHOF This four-star superior establishment is a good choice for those who come to Zurich to shop on famous Bahnhofstrasse - it‘s located just opposite the main train station where the shopping starts. Business travelers will also enjoy the first-class service provided which includes a butler who will knock on your door in the evening, offering you chocolate, fruit and newspapers. The rooms of the Schweizerhof are furnished in a very classic style and feature electrically-adjustable beds.QF‑11, Bahnhofplatz 7, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 44 218 88 88, fax (+41) 44 218 81 81, www.hotelschweizerhof.com. 107 rooms. P­J­H­A­R­6­K­X­W hhhh facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

STEIGENBERGER HOTEL BELLERIVE AU LAC The Steigenberger is a four-star superior hotel situated directly on the lake. Swiss designer Tilla Theus has carefully restored the historic hotel, mixing art deco elements like lush leather-padded walls and delicate, geometric wooden side-boards with discrete contemporary styling, such as in the bathrooms finished in rock. The elegant in-house restaurant Vivus offers views of the lake and a range of classy meat and fish dishes.QH-15, Utoquai 47, 8Kreuzstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 254 40 00, fax (+41) 44 254 40 01, www.zuerich.steigenberger.ch. 51 rooms. P­J­ H­A­R­6­U­F­L­K­D­W hhhh

MID-RANGE CITY The City is a central choice, with Bahnhofstrasse and the old town in walking distance. It was completely refurbished in 2013 by Dyer-Smith | Frey, so each room now has an individual design with classic, powerful colours, some with carpets, some with parquet flooring. All have a desk and an espresso machine and a bathroom with fancy LEDs around the mirrors, so you can admire yourself in the right light. Small rooftop terrace for your coffee break.QF‑12, Löwenstrasse 34, 8Löwenplatz, tel. (+41) 44 217 17 17, fax (+41) 44 217 18 18, www.hotelcity.ch. 60 rooms. P­J­H­A­R­6­K­W hhh

AIRPORT HOTELS ALLEGRA The Allegra is a good choice if you have an earlymorning flight - the free shuttle bus will make sure you don’t miss it. Situated just next to the S-train station Kloten, the centre of Zurich is also just a 15-minute train ride away. The rooms are quite spacious, have parquet flooring, a kettle for tea and coffee, a desk and come in a colourful design in the style of Dutch artist Piet Mondrian - even the linen matches the walls. There is ventilation but no air-conditioning. QHamelirainstrasse 3, Kloten, tel. (+41) 44 804 44 44, fax (+41) 44 804 41 41, www.hotel-allegra.ch. 132 rooms. H­A­R­6­U­F­L­K­W hhhh June - July 2017

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Hotels ADLER This charming three-star hotel is situated in the middle of Niederdorf, the restaurant district of the old town. Soundproof windows make sure you get only the advantages of the location. In each room local artist Heinz Blum has painted a view of the old town on the wall. The mini bars are cooled ecologically and there is a ventilation system instead of air-conditioning. Cheese restaurant on the ground floor.QG‑12, Rosengasse 10, Am Hirschenplatz, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. (+41) 44 266 96 96, fax (+41) 44 266 96 69, www.hotel-adler.ch. 52 rooms. J­H­A6 ­ ­K­W hhh

HOSTELS

MARTA The Marta is a functional hotel, very centrally located in the Niederdorf, just a few minutes away from the main train station. The blue coloured rooms have a modern feel. There is a twin bed, a bathroom with shower and a flatscreen TV in every room, as well as Wi-fi throughout the hotel. The hotel is run by a non-profit cooperation, giving socially challenged women an opportunity to work. There is no air-conditioning but ventilators. QG‑11, Zähringerstrasse 36, 8Central, tel. (+41) 44 269 95 95, fax (+41) 44 269 95 90, www.hotelmarta.ch. 39 rooms. J­H­A­6­U­W hh

PENSIONS FÜR DICH The ‘For You’ pension has 18 tastefully furnished rooms opposite the park Bäckeranlage, just off Langstrasse. The rooms are quite spacious and most of them feature a TV, a lounge table and easy chairs, some even have a balcony. Shower and toilet are shared between three rooms. The café Für Dich downstairs serves breakfast on weekends and is also a good place for a drink. Good for exploring urban Zurich a little away from the centre.QC‑11, Stauffacherstrasse 141, 8Bäckeranlage, tel. (+41) 76 583 71 17/(+41) 43 317 91 60, www.fuerdich.ch. 18 rooms. A­W

@ VBZ

YOUTH HOSTEL This modern youth hostel has four- and six-bed rooms with bunk beds and shared showers and toilets. All rooms have a small vestibule where lockers and the washbasin are located - so latecomers don‘t wake up the rest. There are also private doubles and four-bed rooms with en-suite bathrooms. 24 hours reception and cheap meals (20Sfr incl. soft drink). It‘s just a five-minute walk to the lake and 15 min by tram to the centre. On the weekends a night bus (N°12) stops right in front of the hostel all night long. Great place to meet other travellers.QMutschellenstrasse 114, 8Morgental, tel. (+41) 43 399 78 00, fax (+41) 43 399 78 01, www.youthhostel.ch/zurich. 76 rooms. H­A­ U­K­W

BUDGET HOTELS

Welcome to Zurich • Do you know which ticket is ideally suited to your travel needs on Zurich’s public transport network? • Do you need information on the quickest way to reach your destination? We will get you on the culinary track: e.g. with the Apéro Tram. For friendly, professional answers to all your questions about public transport in and The Apéro Tram travels throughout the whole year: every Thursday at around Zurich, speak to a specialist at one of the city‘s nine 5:30 p.m. and 7:30 p.m. Those who want to turn an evening into a party can VBZ ticket offices. make reservations at the phone number 0848 80 18 80. The Apéro Tram, by the way, is only one of many culinary rides: www.vbz.ch/yummytram www.vbz.ch/en/ticketoffices InseratIn Pocket 123 x 90 mm 2.indd 64 Zurich YourGuide Pocket

1

19.03.2015 15:05:17 zurich.inyourpocket.com


Directory You’re looking for a consulate, a dry cleaner’s or a pharmacy which is open late? This is your guide to the business side of Zurich.

CONSULATES Here are the most important consulates you can find in Zurich. The embassies are usually located in Bern, which is the Swiss capital. See www.eda.admin.ch for addresses. CHINAQMythenquai 100, 8Brunaustrasse, tel. (+41) 44 201 10 05, fax (+41) 44 201 77 12, www.zurich. china-consulate.org. FRANCEQJ‑15, Signaustrasse 1, 8Signaustrasse, tel. (+41) 44 268 85 85, www.consulatfrance-zurich.org. GERMANYQL‑15, Witikonerstrasse 15, 8Klusplatz, tel. (+41) 44 201 72 22, fax (+41) 44 201 72 29, www.honorarkonsul-zuerich.de. ITALYQE‑13, Tödistrasse 65, 8Bahnhof Selnau, tel. (+41) 44 286 61 11, fax (+41) 44 201 16 11, www.conszurigo.esteri.it. RUSSIAQG‑13, Oberdorfstrasse 10, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) 900 00 08 08 (5Sfr/min.), www.rusconsul.ch. UNITED STATES OF AMERICAQI‑16, Dufourstrasse 101, 8Feldeggstrasse, tel. (+41) 43 499 29 60, fax (+41) 43 499 29 61, www.bern.usembassy.gov.

DENTISTS SWISS SMILE This dental clinic is located at the underground shopping mall at the main train station. You can book your appointment online.QF‑11, HB/Shop Ville, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 43 300 30 03, www.swiss-smile.com. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.

SWISS EDUCATION GROUP For decades now, Switzerland has had a strong reputation in hospitality training and education. The Swiss Education Group runs five schools across seven campuses in Switzerland and offers various bachelor and masters programmes in the fields of hospitality, tourism, entrepreneurship and business management, as well as shorter one to eight week courses for professionals. It currently has some 6,500 students from 111 countries. Its schools include César Ritz, in Le Bouveret, Lucerne and Brig, the Culinary Arts Academy in Le Bouveret and Lucerne and the Hotel Institute in Montreux.QAvenue des Alpes 27, Montreux, tel. (+41) 21 965 40 20, www.swisseducation.com.

MASSAGE ZURICH MASSAGE AND SPORT CLINIC Zurich Massage And Sport Clinic offers treatments from relax and sports massages to trigger point massages and other treatments. Visit the clinic in Kilchberg or request a massage at your home or hotel room.QKilchberg, tel. (+41) 43 810 80 02, www.zurichmassageclinic.com.

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS ALEMANIA German courses only, from beginners to proficient speakers.QBadenerstrasse 333, 8Albisriederplatz, tel. (+41) 44 300 33 44, www.alemania.ch.

PHARMACIES BELLEVUE APOTHEKE QH‑14, Theaterstrasse 14, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) 44 266 62 22, www.bazh.ch. Open daily 24hrs.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS

PRIVATE CLINICS

SIS SWISS INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL A private day school that offers bilingual education on all levels from kindergarten to college.QSeestrasse 271, 8Billoweg, tel. (+41) 43 399 88 44, www.swissinternationalschool.ch.

BETHANIENQJ‑10, Toblerstrasse 51, 8Toblerplatz, tel. (+41) 43 268 70 70, www.klinikbethanien.ch.

facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

HIRSLANDENQWitellikerstrasse 40, 8Balgrist, tel. (+41) 44 387 21 11, www.hirslanden.ch.

June - July 2017

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Index 16tons47 Wirtschaft im Franz 30 Allegra63 Arthouse Movie 20 Au-Gust28 Ballenberg - Swiss Open-Air museum61 Ban Song Thai 21 Bar 63 33 Bebek28 Benci Brothers 49 Bernhard Bar Cafe 31 Best of Switzerland Tours 61 Best of Zurich - Zürich City Tour42 Beyer Watches & Jewellery 54 Bogner52 Bohemia28 Bootsvermietung Enge 13 Botanischer Garten 42 Boutique Christian Fischbacher50 Bovelli31 Bros Beans & Beats 31 Bucherer54 Burberry52 Céline52 Chanel52 CHRIST Watches & Jewelry 54 Cinchona (25hours hotel langstrasse)33 City63 Collana31 Commercio25 Continental Zürich 62 Cooper's Pub 37 Corso20 Crowne Plaza 62 DeeCee Style 48 Degussa Goldhandel (Gold & Silver) 54 Die Macherei 50, 55 Dior52 Dolce & Gabbanna 52 Dolmetsch50 Ecco23 Edelweiss Shop 51 Enea Tree Museum 61 Ermenegildo Zegna 52 Escape Quest 58 Felix Café am Bellevue 32 Felsenegg lookout 15 fidelio women 48 FIFA World Football Museum 40 Flumserberg60 Franz Carl Weber 59 Frauenbadi (river baths) 12 Frau Gerolds Garten 14 Fraumünster38 Frieda's Büxe 36 Für Dich 64 Gamper29 Gartenhof26 Gaucho28 gaymeboys.com online magazine 45 Gemeinschaftszentren (community centres) 59 Giacometti murals 38 Giorgio Armani 52 Glärnischhof63 Glatt - Your First Shopping Destination47 Globus47

Grossmünster39 Gübelin54 Haifisch35 Heaven45 Hechtplatz Sommergarten 13 Heldenbar45 Herman's Wohnzimmer 32 Hiltl Dachterrasse 25 Honold La Confiserie 47 Idaplatz15 Jack & Jo (Europaallee) 22 Jaime El Barco 37 James Joyce 35 Jil Sander 52 Kanzlei36 Kaufleuten36 kleinbasel / Claudia Güdel 48 Kleine Freiheit 14 Korner22 Kronenhalle Bar 34 Krone Unterstrass & Townhouse 63 Kunsthaus40 Kurz Jewellery and Watches 54 La Côte 24 Lago13 Lake Zurich Cruises 39 LaSalle26 Laser Arena 58 Le Dézaley 22 Le Muh 37 Le Raymond 33 Les Ambassadeurs 54 Les Halles 27 Lexy36 LGBT+ Helpline 45 Lily's21 Lindenhof40 Longchamp52 Longstreet35 LOOQ48 Loro Piana 52 Louis Vuitton 53 Maison Blunt 28 Maison Gassmann 48 Mamma Mia 37 Mammut49 Männerzone45 Manor48 Marta64 Max Chocolatier 47 Mehrspur36 Meister54 Meng Cutlery 51 Mère Catherine 24 messer-scharf51 MFO-Park42 Michael Kors Zurich 49 Mohrenkopf29 Moncler53 Montblanc Zurich 54 Moods36 Mount Chäserrugg - Toggenburg 60 Mulberry53 My Place 32 National Museum (Landesmuseum)40 Oberer Letten (river baths) 12 Och Sport 49 Oepfelchammer35 Old Crow 34

facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

Ooki26 Opia48 Orell Füssli - The Bookshop 47 Oxblood Shoes 49 Partime55 Pavillon Le Corbusier 40 Perron 9 37 Petra's Tip Top Bar 45 Plaza36 Prada53 Predigerhof45 Primitivo14 Public lake baths Mythenquai 59 Rage45 Rathaus32 Raygrodski34 RiffRaff20 Rigi - Mountain with a view 60 Rimini - Männerbad Schanzengraben15 Ristorante Bianchi 23 Rosso25 Rote Fabrik 36 Sala of Tokyo 27 Salvatore Ferragamo 53 Schweizer Heimatwerk 51 Schweizerhof63 Seebad Enge 13 Segway City Tours 43 Sender34 Shopping in the Airside Center at Zurich Airport 47 Sihlpost9 SO Pizza 26 Sorell Zürichberg 63 Sprüngli Café 32 Stefi Talman 49 Steigenberger Hotel Bellerive au Lac63 Stories of the Old Town - Guided walk43 St. Peter 41 Summergarte15 Swiss Casinos Zürich 34 Tales34 Teddy's Souvenir-Shop 51

The Butcher 22 The Dolder Grand 62 The Gallery 48 The International 33 tibits25 tibits Oerlikon 37 Tissot Boutique 55 Tom Ford 53 Tre Fratelli 30 Tritt-Käse50 Trois Pommes The Store Women 53 Türler55 Uetliberg39 Valentino53 Vapiano26 Victorinox Flagship Store 51 Vineria Centrale 35 Walliser Keller 22 Weisser Wind 30 Welschland50 Werdinsel (river pool Au-Höngg) 13 Wesley's Kitchen 21 Widder62 Widder Garage 33 Xenix Bar - Kanzlei 15 xess + baba 50 Youth Hostel 64 Zeit Meister 55 Zeughauskeller30 Ziegelhütte37 Zoological and Paleontological Museums of the University of Zurich59 Zum Fink 30 Zum Grünen Glas 24 Zunfthaus zur Zimmerleuten 24 ZurichEscape58 Zurich Experience City Tour 43 zürichfoto.ch51 Zurich Zoo 58 Züri rollt - bikes for free 7

FEATURES INDEX Adult entertainment Breakfast Casino Cheese restaurants Contemporary architecture Lake Zurich Language smarts Live music More for less with the ZürichCARD National holidays Shopping around Langstrasse Swiss cuisine Taxi smarts Tax free shopping Tourist Information Useful Zurich apps

35 32 34 22 42 39 9 36 41 10 48 28 6 55 10 8 June - July 2017

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Lake Zurich boat

Terminus

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Limmat river boat

Bus stop only for direction shown Bus only travels in one direction here

Tarifzone ZVV

ZVV fare zone


SOUVENIRS SOUVENIRS WHATEVER YOU WANT

THE BEST CHOICE OF SOUVENIRS, GIFTS AND CUTLERY IN TOWN

Poststrasse 4, 8001 Zürich Rennweg 31, 8001 Zürich www.mengcutlery.ch

Oberdorfstrasse 25 8001 Zürich www.messer-scharf.ch


©2017 movado group, inc.

MOVADO 1881 AUTOMATIC™ A MODERN TRIBUTE TO THE YEAR MOVADO WAS FOUNDED. SWISS MADE. FINE SELF-WINDING MOVEMENT. MOVADO.COM CENTRAL Watch & Jewelry, Limmatquai 140, Zürich, Map G -11 CHRIST Uhren & Schmuck, Jelmoli, Seidengasse 1, Zürich, Map F -12 OSCAR STAHEL, watches and jewellery, Gerbergasse 5, Zürich, Map F -12 ZEIT MEISTER, Badenerstrasse 16-18, Zürich, Map D -12 GALLI, Theaterstrasse 16, Zürich, Map H -14

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