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Maps Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Events Hotels

Zurich April – May 2018

Zurich People

The president of Bahnhofstrasse talks about his city

Death of a Snowman

Celebrate the arrival of spring, the Zurich way

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Contents Advertisement

Arriving & Getting Around

6

City Basics

8

History

11

Zurich people 12 Meet Franco Savastano, the guardian of Bahnhofstrasse

Culture & Events 14 Concerts, shows and exhibitions

Restaurants

17

Fine dining, cheesy treats and much more

Cafés

27

Chocolate, coffee and conversation

Nightlife

28

Bars, pubs and clubs

Sightseeing

32

Churches, murals and museums

Zurich for kids

40

Major fun for minor citizens

Franco Savastano is president of the Bahnhofstrasse association. In our interview on p. 12 he talks about the challenges this world renowned shopping street faces today and reveals his favourite restaurants and leisure venues in town. PD

Zurich Nord

42

Restaurants and bars in the north of the city

Shopping

43

Fancy fashion and Swiss design

Watches & Jewellery

52

Leisure

56

Laser tag, scavenger hunts and thermal baths

Day trips

57

Natural highlights and cultural heritage

Queer Zurich

58

Hotels

59

Maps & Index Read all about Sechseläuten, Zurich’s weird spring festival on p. 14 and find out what the burning snowman is all about. Zurich Tourism Advertisement

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62-64 65 66

City map Index Public transport map Advertisement

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April – May 2018 3


Foreword Every spring, strange things begin to occur in the middle of Zurich. A huge funeral pyre is set up next to Bellevue and everywhere in the city men wearing medieval costumes can be seen gathering in groups. You’ll also see horses, horse-drawn carriages and even the odd camel. The culmination of these peculiar happenings occurs when a huge snowman-like figure called böögg is placed on the pyre and dozens of guilds parade with much fanfare across the city. The snowman meets an incandescent end when the pyre is set ablaze while cheering guildsmen ride around. Welcome to Sechseläuten, Zurich’s unusual spring festival! While this scenario may sound outlandish to outsiders and while the torching of a burning snowman may look like something only the Grinch could envision, we can assure you that it’s a great spectacle that shouldn’t be missed. All of Zurich takes the afternoon off and lots of people grill sausages on the remains of the pyre and its unwitting victim – the snowman. Read all about it on p. 14. If, however, this all still sounds a little too archaic for you, don’t worry. A Zurich spring has much more to offer than medieval mayhem. Spring is when the lakeside and the parks comes to life again (p. 34) and if you’re lucky and the weather shows its sweet side, you’ll be able to take advantage of open-air bars and cafés, which sprout up everywhere. That’s when you know that spring has finally arrived in Zurich. Lukas Füglister has lived in Zurich for nearly 15 years now. As editor and general manager of Zurich In Your Pocket he made sharing his profound knowledge of the city his profession in 2010. He loves dining out, craft beer and tennis and never tires of exploring Zurich. lukas.fueglister@inyourpocket.com

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E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

years

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COVER STORY This issue’s cover features a bird’seye view of Zurich’s three main attractions: the lake, the river and the old town. Do as the locals do and have a picnic by the water or find a scenic outdoor terrace with a view.

PUBLISHER & STAFF Publisher pocket publishing GmbH, Wuhrstrasse 15, 8003 Zürich tel. (+41) 32 510 85 76, zurich@inyourpocket​​​​​​​​​​​.com, www.inyourpocket.ch Member of Zürich Tourism / Spirit Club Yearly print run: 180 000 (6 x 30 000) ISSN 1663-9944 © pocket publishing GmbH 2018 Editor & General Manager Lukas Füglister Copy editor Mārtiņš Zaprauskis, Research Philippe Wampfler, Layout & Maps Tomáš Haman Photos For photographers see photos Cover © Zurich Tourism Sales manager Susi Haefeli, susi.haefeli@inyourpocket.com, (+41) 32 511 28 68, Ad rates at www.inyourpocket.ch, next issue’s closing date: May 11, 2018 Editor’s note & Copyright notice The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We assume no responsibiltiy for changes and errors. Content copyright pocket publishing GmbH. Photos copyright photographers. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. The brand name In Your Pocket and maps are used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, LT, tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

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Please complete our Readers' Survey at iyp.me/readershipsurvey. And share your comments via our website or app. 4 Zurich In Your Pocket

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111 events. 11 days. 1 festival.

Presenter


Arriving & Getting Around ARRIVING BY PLANE Zurich International Airport (ZRH) lies 13 kilometres north of the city centre in Kloten and handles around 700 flights a day going to over 170 destinations worldwide. You can find ATMs and switzerlandinfo desks at Arrival 1 and Arrival 2 just after you pass customs. There you can find free copies of Zurich In Your Pocket. There is a big public shopping area with most shops open from 08:00 - 21:00 (groceries from 06:00 - 23:00) and free Wifi for the first 120 minutes, just connect your device to ’ZurichAirport’. Getting to town: The easiest and fastest way to get to and from the airport is by train. Catch a train at the underground train station near terminals 1 and 2 - if the sign on the platform reads Zürich HB (HB = Hauptbahnhof = main station), it’s the right train. Up to 10 trains leave an hour and the journey takes roughly 10 minutes. Tickets can be bought at the counters or at the ticket machines (switch them to English on the first screen) next to the stairs leading down to the platforms. A ticket for an adult is 6.80Sfr and valid for one hour in the whole city (3 zones). If you plan to do more travelling by public transport, make it a 24-hour ticket for just twice the price or consider buying a Zürich Card (see p. 37). A taxi ride to central Zurich costs around 60Sfr. Official taxi stands are just outside Arrivals 1 and 2. Tram N°10 takes you from the airport via Oerlikon to Zurich main station as well. The journey takes 37 minutes and the same tickets valid for the trains can be used.

TAXI SMARTS Taxis in Zurich are in general clean, safe, reliable - and expensive. It‘s usually easy to get one, even at rush hour. The city sets the following maximum prices for taxis: initial fee 8Sfr, 5Sfr per kilometre, 80Sfr per hour. The actual fees have to be displayed on a sticker on the door of the car. In reality only two prices exist: the maximum fee and the lower one many companies charge (incl. the two listed below): initial fee (Basis on the sticker) 6Sfr, 3.80Sfr per kilometre (Distanz), 69Sfr per hour (Wartezeit). When taking a taxi from a stand, check the prices on their door. Yes, you are free to take any taxi at a stand. At official taxi stands, you will often find the more expensive ones (especially at the main train station). The ridesharing service Uber also operates in Zurich. You can order your driver easily by using its app. Fares are usually significantly cheaper than standard taxi fares (initial fee 3-6Sfr, 1.80 - 3.60Sfr per kilometre, 0.30 - 0.60Sfr per minute, higher if demand is higher). Or try the app Your-Taxi, the local equivalent of Uber (4Sfr, 2.50Sfr per kilometre, 0.29Sfr per minute). TAXI 444Qtel. (+41) 44 444 44 44, www.taxi444.ch. TAXI 7x7Qtel. (+41) 44 777 77 77, www.7x7.ch. 6 Zurich In Your Pocket

If you’re running down Bahnhofstrasse to catch a train, aim for the big arch. Zurich Tourism

ARRIVING BY TRAIN Zurich’s main train station, referred to by locals as HB (short for Hauptbahnhof, say haa-bay), is right in the centre of the city. All international and domestic trains leave and arrive here. From the platforms just follow the herd towards the main hall, where you will find the main exit towards the city centre, the ticket offices and Tourist Information (see p. 10). Trams, buses and taxis leave just outside the station. At the ticket office in the main hall you can buy train tickets (also available at the many ticket machines), tickets for public transport in Zurich and also change money. For timetables and tickets refer to www.sbb.ch, call tel. (+41) 900 300 300 (1.19Sfr/min) or download the ‘SBB Mobile’ app to your smartphone.

ARRIVING BY BUS International buses as well as sightseeing buses arrive and start at the bus station (Bus Terminal Sihlquai, F‑10), a twominute walk north from the main train station (close to track 18). Starting this June there will be some domestic longdistance coaches for the first time in Switzerland.

ARRIVING BY CAR The Swiss highways A1, A2, A3 and A4 lead from all directions to Zurich and if you follow the signs to Zurich City, the city centre is quite easy to reach. Sadly, parking is scarce and very expensive. For overnight parking you can try to find a spot in the so-called blue zone in residential areas - parking there is free from 19:00 - 08:00. Indicate your arrival time on your parking disk. Driving in Switzerland is generally easy. If you’re using the motorways you have to buy a vignette for 40Sfr. Remember that trams always have the right of way, as well as pedestrians on zebra crossings without traffic lights. Headlights must be turned on all the time. The legal blood alcohol limit for drivers is 0.05%. The standard speed limit is 50km/h in urban areas, 80km/h outside towns and 120km/h on motorways. In residential zones, it is often 30km/h. Fines are high and Switzerland makes sure you pay the fine even if you have a foreign number plate. You may use your home driving licence. zurich.inyourpocket.com


Arriving & Getting Around PUBLIC TRANSPORT City transport Zurich’s public transport network includes trams, buses, local trains and even ships on the lake and the river. The ticket system is fairly simple: the regional network is divided into zones. You don’t buy tickets for a trip, but rather for a zone. The network of the city of Zurich is zone number 110 (see map p. 66). Tickets are valid in the chosen zones on all kinds of transportation. For ships on Lake Zurich and the River Limmat a 5Sfr supplement to any valid ticket is required (buy it when boarding the ship). A 24-hours pass for the city will cost you 8.80Sfr, a single ticket valid for one hour 4.40Sfr. Children up to five travel for free, 6 - 16 yearolds pay the so-called half-fare (which is actually 3.10Sfr). These tickets can be purchased at the ticket machines you find at almost every stop (most take credit cards). Note that Uetliberg and the airport are not within zone 110. If you get caught without a valid ticket, you’ll be fined 90Sfr. Another option is the Zürich Card (27Sfr/24hrs, 53Sfr/72hrs), which is valid for zone 110 as well as between the airport and the city and it also gives you free admission to many museums. See p. 37 for more information.

OFFICIAL INTERNET SHOP WWW.PARTIMEWATCH.COM

SWISS MADE

Public transport in Zurich runs roughly from 05:00 - 00:30. There are night buses all night from Friday to Saturday and from Saturday to Sunday to all parts of the town. Most of them start at Bellevue and pass by Central and Escher-Wyss Platz. They require a 5Sfr supplement to any valid ticket. Send a text message from your mobile with the word ’NZ’ to 988 to purchase the supplement by phone. Trains The train network is best for getting around Switzerland quickly and in comfort. For timetables visit www.sbb.ch. Tickets are sold at vending machines and at the counters in the main hall of Zurich’s main train station.

BICYCLES

TO SEE THIS CUP YOU NEED TO MAKE IT TO THE WORLD CUP FINAL – OR TO ZURICH.

ZÜRI ROLLT - BIKES FOR FREE Bikes to borrow for free - all you need is an ID and 20Sfr as a deposit. It’s located at the southern exit of the main station (Europaallee), close to track 3. In summer (starting May) there are additional stations. QF‑11, Velostation Europaplatz, Hauptbahnhof, www.zuerirollt.ch. Open 08:00 - 21:30.

FREE-FLOATING RENTAL BIKES There are several hundred free-floating rental bikes available throughout Zurich operated by two different companies. You simply download the respective app and register your credit card and then you’ll be able to see where the closest bike is located and book it. Then find and unlock it with your phone and hop on! LIMEBIKE, green, three gears, quite comfortable to ride. 1Sfr per half hour, no deposit and the first ride is for free. Qwww.limebike.com. OBIKE, yellow, only one gear, only recomended in the flat area. 1.50Sfr per half hour, deposit 49Sfr.Qwww.o.bike

WWW.FIFAMUSEUM.COM Seestrasse 27, 8002 Zurich

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April – May 2018 7 ZIYP_60x90_en_Version Q1_2018_v03_hgs.indd 1

08.01.2018 16:08:16


City Basics DRINKING

BASIC DATA

The drinking age in Switzerland is 16 for wine and beer and 18 for spirits and alcopops. The standard sizes for beer are the 0.3 litre Stange (pronounce: shtang-eh) and the 0.5 litre Grosses (gro-sus). The long-standing medium-scale brewers are increasingly getting competition from local brewers. Check out Sprint, Paul, Chopfab or Appenzeller for instance. Swiss wines are also not to be underestimated. While the best come from further south, you’ll find some good Blauburgunders and Riesling Sylvaners from the Zurich region.

Area Switzerland: 41285 km² Zurich (Canton): 1729 km² Zurich (City): 92 km² Population Switzerland: 8 million Zurich (city): 405,000 Official languages Switzerland: German, French, Italian, Romansh Zurich: German Local time Central European (GMT+1h)

CUSTOMS Switzerland is not a member of the European customs union. On the one hand that gives you the opportunity to buy real tax-free goods at airports when you are travelling from and to Switzerland. On the other hand there are tight restrictions on the goods you can take free of customs duty from Switzerland to your country. For EU-countries the following customs and tax allowances apply (for other countries check with the according customs authorities):

ELECTRICITY Electricity in Switzerland is 230 V, 50 Hz AC. Plug sockets are round and take three round pins - they can take Europlugs with two pins. If you are coming from the US or the UK (as well as from many other countries) you need an adaptor. Travellers from the US (and other countries with a a different voltage) additionally need a voltage converter.

HEALTH & EMERGENCY Emergency telephone numbers (operators usually speak basic English): Ambulance: 144 Police: 117 Fire brigade: 118 If you need medical attention, there are several walk-in medical centres, like Permanence at the main train station (facing Bahnhofstrasse), where you just pull a ticket and wait your turn ((+41) 44 215 44 44, Bahnhofplatz 15, open 07:00 - 22:00) or mediX (+41) 44 298 50 50, Badenerstrasse 41, open 07:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 18:00). Zurich also has three public hospitals with walk-in emergency units which are open 24 hours a day for urgent matters. EMERGENCY UNIT UNIVERSITÄTSSPITAL QH‑11, Rämistrasse 100, 8ETH/Universitätsspital, tel. (+41) 44 255 11 11. Open 24 hrs.

USEFUL ZURICH APPS In the old town you’ll always find picturesque views. 

Agata Muszyńska

Tobacco: 200 (50 to some countries) cigarettes or 100 (20) cigarillos or 50 (10) cigars or 250 (50) g of smoking tobacco. Alcohol: 1 litre of spirits over 22% vol or 2 litres of spirits with less than 22% vol, 4 litres of still wine, 16 litres of beer. Other goods: Max value of all goods: 430 euros for air travellers and 300 euros for other travellers. Goods over these limits must be declared when entering an EU-country, additional taxes and VAT may apply. In Switzerland there is duty-free shopping for arriving passengers at airports. 8 Zurich In Your Pocket

Our own app, In Your Pocket City Essentials, features only our favourite places in Zurich (and many other cities). Just as useful is the map, which is also available offline. It’s available for free on both iOS and Android. To download, simply go to iyp.me/app on your smartphone or scan the QR code on the front cover of this guide. The free app ZVV-Fahrplan provides real time doorto-door timetable information for all public transport within the ZVV network in the canton of Zurich. It also tells you where the nearest stop is, and how to get from A to B. And it’s available in English. With the free ZVV-Tickets app you can buy tickets on the fly, quickly and easily (App store and Google Play). zurich.inyourpocket.com


City Basics LANGUAGE SMARTS Here are some typical Swiss German words - it will be always appreciated if you use a few Swiss words. The ‘r‘ in Swiss German is rolled, the ‘ch’ is pronounced like in the Scottish loch. Mind your throat. Hello (formal)

Grüezi

(groo-e-tsi)

Goodbye (formal)

Adieu

(as in French)

Thank you

Merci

(mersi)

Sorry!

Entschuldigung!

(ent-shooldi-goong)

Excuse me!

Exgüsi!

(ex-gewsi)

Switzerland

D’Schwyz

(t’shviiits)

Cheers!

Zum Wohl!

(tsoom vol)

Zurich

Züri

(tsoori)

The best Zurich has to offer in one great app

EMERGENCY UNIT STADTSPITAL TRIEMLI QBirmensdorferstrasse 497, 8Triemli, tel. (+41) 44 466 11 11. Open 24 hrs. EMERGENCY UNIT STADTSPITAL WAID QC‑4, Tièchestrasse 99, 8Bucheggplatz, tel. (+41) 44 366 20 55. Open 24 hrs. Pharmacies To find out where the next pharmacy (Apotheke in German) on duty is, call (+41) 900 55 35 55 (1.50 Sfr/min). The pharmacy at Bellevue is always open 24 hrs (G-14, Theaterstrasse 14, (+41) 44 266 62 22).

LANGUAGE Switzerland has four official languages: German (spoken by 64%), French (20%), Italian (6.5%) and Romansh (0.5%). Zurich lies in the German speaking part of the country, where people speak a German dialect, so called Swiss German or Schwyzerdütsch. Be it among friends, at work or when dealing with the authorities, people speak dialect. However, Swiss people use standard German, so-called Hochdeutsch, when writing and speaking at school.

MAIL & PHONE Post: Swiss post is generally reliable and also can take care of all your financial transactions. The Sihlpost is the post office with the longest opening hours (see below). Dialling: Switzerland’s calling code is +41. Zurich’s code is (0)44 or (0)43. We list the country code before all telephone numbers in parentheses. Of course you only have to use this if you are dialling from abroad. If you are already in Switzerland, just ignore the (+41) prefix, dial 0 and then the nine-digit number. SIHLPOST Zurich‘s central post office, open until late. Take a ticket and wait for your turn. QE‑11, Kasernenstrasse 97, 8Sihlpost, tel. (+41) 848 888 888. Open 06:30 - 22:30, Sat 06:30 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:30. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

City Essentials Only our favourite places Works offline, incl. maps Free download Incl. dozens of other cities www.iyp.me/app

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

April – May 2018 9


City Basics NATIONAL HOLIDAYS January 1 January 2 March 30, 2018 April 2, 2018 April 16, 2018 May 1 May 10, 2018 May 21, 2018 August 1 September 10, 2018 December 25

New Year Berchtold Day (local) Good Friday Easter Monday Sechseläuten (Zurich only) Labour Day (Zurich only) Ascension Whit Monday National Holiday Knabenschiessen (Zurich only) Christmas

MONEY The currency and legal tender of Switzerland is the Swiss franc (Sfr), which is divided in 100 rappen. There are banknotes of 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 1000 francs. The coins in use are 1, 2 and 5 francs as well as 5, 10, 20 and 50 rappen.You can change your money at the SBB change at the main railway station or any of the banks. Or just withdraw Swiss francs with your Maestro or your Plus card from one of the ubiquitous ATMs. Credit cards are widely accepted - both in shops and restaurants. Service is always included. At a restaurant however, if you were happy with the service, leave 5-10% of the bill as a tip.

RELIGION The Swiss are traditionally either Roman Catholic (42%) or Protestant (35%). The largest (and quite new) minority religious community are Muslims (4%). Zurich is traditionally Protestant, due to the ardent reformator Zwingli who put an end to partying here in the 16th century. But his grip has loosened somewhat in recent decades.

SAFETY Zurich is a safe city, and in fact there is no no-go area, even for single travellers at night. Be on guard against pickpockets just as in any European city.

SMOKING The legal age for smoking is 16. Smoking in public buildings and transport is illegal. However, restaurants and bars are allowed to have a separate smoking room (fumoir).

VISAS For a stay of up to three months, many foreigners simply need a passport or an ID card to enter Switzerland. Even though not a member of the European Union, Switzerland is a member of the Schengen Agreement. As a result a Schengen visa is valid for Switzerland as well. Always check these details with a Swiss embassy or consulate.

TOURIST INFORMATION

On the lake: when spring arrives, the socks come off. Agata Muszyńska

POLITICS The Swiss like to consider their country the home of direct democracy and citizens here are regularly asked to take a stand on national issues. The two chambers of parliament are (mainly) elected in a proportional voting system and the seven-member government appointed by parliament always includes representatives of all of the four or five major parties. Switzerland is a federal republic consisting of 26 cantons, once sovereign states which retain some independence and have their own constitutions, parliaments and governments. Bern is the capital and the seat of the parliament and the federal authorities. Due to the understanding of political independence many locals favour, Switzerland is not a member of the EU. 10 Zurich In Your Pocket

The Tourist Information run by Zurich Tourism is conveniently located in the main hall of the main train station. This is a one-stop solution for all the information you might be missing - and much more. For personal advice at the counter, take a ticket and wait your turn. There are some pads for you to browse and check out the many offers like tours and venues and you can pick up leaflets and a city map. But they don’t just have advice, they also offer the following services. They... • will book city tours and excursions • sell tickets for public transport, incl. the Swiss Travel Pass • sell the Zürich Card (see p. 37 for more infos) • can make hotel reservations • also sell tickets for events and museums, souvenirs and gift vouchers Last but not least you can always pick up the latest copy of Zurich In Your Pocket here - for free, of course. QG-11, Main hall of the main train station. Open 08:30 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00, May - Oct 08:00 20:30, Sun 08:30 - 18:30. zurich.inyourpocket.com


History XVI Century Huldrych Zwingli, priest at the Grossmünster, was a major critic of mercenary service. But he had a lot more to say and became the initiator of the Reformation in Zurich from 1520 on. The Reformation meant an end to all frivolous behaviour - drinking, prostitution and actually most fun was forbidden or strictly regulated.

NAPOLEON CAUSES A BOTHER XVI - XVIII Century During the 16th and 17th Centuries Zurich’s wealth and influence increased. Among the intellectuals of the time were the educational reformer Heinrich Pestalozzi or the painter Johann Heinrich Füssli, whose work you’ll find today in the Kunsthaus. In 1798 Zurich lost its independence as Napoleon took over, transforming the Swiss Confederacy into the Helvetic Republic for a brief five years. Zurich’s somewhat grim reformator Huldrych Zwingli.

ZIYP

ROMANS AND SCHWYZERDÜÜTSCH

RAILWAYS AND A STRIKE

100BC - X Century Around 15 BC the Romans established a military base at the site of today’s Lindenhof where you can find a copy of the Roman tomb stone mentioning Turicum, the word from which Zurich derives. Roman rule ended around 400 AD and nobody really has any idea what went on in Zurich for the next few centuries. One change was the arrival of the Germanic tribe of the Allemanni, who brought with them the language that was to become today’s Swiss German (Schwyzerdüütsch).

XIX - XX Century Modern-day Switzerland was founded in 1848 as a federation. The year before, the first railway line in Switzerland was opened. Railways were the business Alfred Escher was in. He dominated Zurich and Swiss politics for the next few decades. His statue can be found just in front of the main train station. Switzerland remained neutral during the First World War and was refuge to the artists who started the Dada movement in Zurich. The war exacerbated the poverty of the working classes and in 1918 a socialist committee called a general strike. Many of the committee’s demands were later fulfilled, though not the demand for the right of women to vote, which was not introduced until 1971!

ZURICH IN WOMEN’S HANDS

THE RÉDUIT AND THE WAR

XII - XIV Century In the 13th Century Zurich became an imperial city, answering only to the emperor of the Holy Roman Empire. Zurich was now headed by a woman the abbess of the Fraumünster abbey. In 1336 an uprising of Zurich’s craftsmen made the newly founded guilds the foundation of Zurich’s political structure. Many of the guild houses, still in use today, are now also restaurants like the Zunfthaus Zur Schmiden or the Zunfthaus am Neumarkt (emblem of the guild of the shoemakers on the left).

XX Century During most of the Second World War Switzerland, formally neutral, was totally surrounded by the Axis powers, making it difficult to import food and other goods. General Guisan prepared for a military attack by literally hollowing out the Alps, envisaging a guerrilla war from the mountains, the socalled réduit strategy.

ZURICH GOES SWISS…  AND PROTESTANT XIV - XVI Century In 1351 Zurich joined ’Switzerland’, which had existed as a treaty since 1291. This however didn’t stop the city waging war against fellow cantons, such as against Schwyz. Soon the city ruled over lands around Lake Zurich and north all the way to the river Rhine. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

ZURICH TODAY XX - XXI Century After the war Switzerland’s economy boomed and mass immigration from Southern Europe set in, while culturally and politically Switzerland remained very conservative. In 1968 and 1980 youth movements clashed with police, but also brought new cultural life to Zurich. Today Zurich is still a major financial centre and has lost the conservative reputation. It has become popular as a place to live for highlyskilled workers from across Europe. This has made the lack of affordable apartments one of the major topics in Zurich today. April – May 2018 11


Franco Savastano, president of Vereinigung Bahnhofstrasse and CEO of Jelmoli. | PD

The guardian of Bahnhofstrasse Franco Savastano is president of Vereinigung Zürcher Bahnhofstrasse. This organisation’s goal is to keep Zurich’s most renowned shopping street attractive for both shoppers and retailers. We asked Savastano, who is also CEO of the Jelmoli department store, about the street’s main assets and the challenges it faces. He also reveals his favourite restaurants and shops in the city. 12 Zurich In Your Pocket

zurich.inyourpocket.com


Zurich people What do you think is the biggest asset of Bahnhofstrasse, Zurich’s renowned shopping street? Bahnhofstrasse offers huge diversity. And there isn’t just luxury, but rather something for every budget. There are even a couple of restaurants and cafés with outdoor seating directly on the street. I know locals complain that there are too many watch boutiques here, but like it or not, this is a very important industry for Switzerland. And of course, the location leading from the main station to beautiful Lake Zurich at the top end makes it truly unique.

If you had one political wish on how to improve conditions for Bahnhofstrasse, what would that be? Well, flexible opening hours is an important subject. On Sundays, all shops have to remain closed in Zurich. I only speak for Jelmoli here, but we would appreciate it if we would be allowed to open from time to time on Sundays. For example, on a couple of Sundays in summer when lots of tourists are here. They don’t understand why everything is closed and think there’s a strike or a protest going on. But politically, it’s a sensitive subject. Maybe one day....

You are president of Vereinigung Zürcher Bahnhofstrasse, an association that represents the retailers and service companies on Bahnhofstrasse. What does this organisation do? The main purpose of the association is to keep Bahnhofstrasse an attractive shopping and business street. Our main project is organising the starry Christmas sky on Bahnhofstrasse every year. Besides Christmas, we organise the flagging for the Sechseläuten spring festival and collaborate with the city on security and cleanliness issues.

Let’s talk about Zurich. What makes this city special? Its diversity! For example gastronomy - you can find almost everything imaginable, and all of good quality. But also regarding culture and events, there’s so much going on. Another fact I like about Zurich is its multiculturalism. People from so many different origins live peacefully together here. That’s fascinating.

‘Tourists don’t understand why all shops are closed on Sundays and think there’s a strike or a protest.’ How has Bahnhofstrasse changed in the past 15 years? Well, it’s become much more international. More successful international brands have opened their own stores here. Some say this has caused Bahnhofstrasse to lose its uniqueness and atmosphere. Do you think the loss of local businesses is a problem for its reputation? Well, there are still plenty of local businesses that do an excellent job. And from the point of view of a shopper, I think it doesn’t matter so much if a shop or brand is local. What’s more important is the quality and the reputation. Those international brands are successful, so customers seek them out. They certainly aren’t bad for Bahnhofstrasse. Does the association have any influence on who can open a shop on Bahnhofstrasse? No, we don’t have any influence at all. We just try to keep the street attractive for businesses and customers and try to convince the businesses to contribute to the budget of the association. I have to say though, this doesn’t become any easier when dealing with the international brands. What will be the biggest challenges in the future? Definitely digitalisation. How can we make customers keep coming to the shops in this digital age? The shops have to try to create experiences that can’t be matched online. At Jelmoli, for example, we do lots of events like cooking lessons and wine tastings. Shops will still be places for encounters, but these encounters are changing. Secondly, Zurich, per se, has to be kept attractive. London, Milan, Paris are all just a one or two hour flight away, after all. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

And what annoys you about Zurich? I wish people would be a little bit more relaxed. We’re doing so well here and everything works perfectly, yet everyone is always in such a rush. You missed your train? Relax, the next one will probably arrive in just a couple of minutes. Do you like to eat out? What are your favourite restaurants? Yes, I love to dine out. One of my favourite ‘Italians’ is Da Angela, where I feel like I’m in Milan. The food is really great there. I also like Casa Ferlin, which has a more distinguished atmosphere. For pizza I love to go to Taverne da Angelo and for Swiss food my favourite is Zeughauskeller. I also like Asian food. Ly’s Asia at Prime Tower does a great job. What is your favourite place in Zurich? To relax, I love to walk up to the Uetliberg with my wife, where you’re given a great view of the city and the lake. It doesn’t get much better than that. And where do you go shopping? Well, obviously Jelmoli is my favourite. I can get almost everything I need there from awesome food like the cheese presented in our humidor to suits and shirts. But, of course, I do a lot of scouting too. I like, for example, the Im Viadukt shopping street, a really innovative concept.

FRANCO SAVASTANO Franco Savastano is president of Vereinigung Zürcher Bahnhofstrasse, an association representing the retailers and service companies on Zurich’s renowned shopping street. Since 2012 Savastano has been CEO of Jelmoli, one of three big department stores on Bahnhofstrasse. With roots in southern Italy, he has lived in the Zurich region for roughly 30 years. His favourite places: Da Angela (Hohlstrasse 449), Casa Ferlin (p. 21), Taverne da Angelo (A-11, Badenerstr. 275), Zeughauskeller (p. 25), Ly’s Asia (B-8, Zahnradstr. 21), Uetliberg (p. 33), Im Viadukt (p. 46), Jelmoli (p. 45). April – May 2018 13


Culture & Events Zurich offers a rich bouquet of culture, with its opera and ballet of (at least) European renown and a packed programme of excellent concerts. Pop and rock stars almost always stop in Zurich when touring the continent and Zurich also has a vibrant theatre scene, but unfortunately very few productions in English.

SECHSELÄUTEN

Events are listed in the following categories: classical concerts, exhibitions and rock & pop concerts. Within the sections it’s ordered by date. Of course there are many more events than we can list, so we recommend www.zueritipp.ch for more information.

Zurich Tourism

13.04 - 16.04 » SECHSELÄUTEN

Winter lasts too long in many places and Zurich is no exception. The Zürcher (Zurich’s citizens) have their own solution to this problem: winter is officially chased away with the traditional spring festival Sechseläuten (Sächsilüüte in Swiss German). 26 Zurich guilds (Zünfte) parade through the city centre towards Bellevue, where the festival climaxes at exactly 18:00 when a snowman-like figure called böögg is burned. When the böögg’s head finally explodes the season of fog and cold feet is officially over. Even if considered by some Zürcher as a rather old-fashioned and snooty event, the Sechseläuten is a spectacle you shouldn’t miss. Thousands of participants, tens of thousands of spectators, hundreds of horses, dozens of horse-drawn carriages, bands and even a few camels on a parade in the middle of Zurich is an interesting change to the standard rush hour. The parade is free, except in some areas with seats. The festival originally celebrated the first day of summer working hours which ended with the toll of the church bells at six o’clock. Sechseläuten literally means ‘The six o’clock ringing of the bells’. The guilds made the labour laws at the time, and although they have lost their central importance, people still say that it’s easier to do business in Zurich if you’re a member. April 13 - 16 Celebrations with food on Lindenhof Sunday April 15, 14:30 Children’s parade (Start at Bürkliplatz - Quaibrücke - Limmatquai - Rudolf-Brun-Brücke - Bahnhofstrasse Bürkliplatz - Fraumünsterstrasse - Münsterhof ) Monday April 16, 15:00 Parade of the Guilds (Bahnhofstrasse - Bürkliplatz Bahnhofstrasse - Rudolf Brun Brücke - Limmatquai Bellevue) 18:00 Burning of Böögg on Sechseläutenplatz (Bellevue) Afterwards The public grills sausages on the fire 14 Zurich In Your Pocket

CLASSICAL CONCERTS 17.04 19:30 » ZURICH CHAMBER ORCHESTRA - KIT POWELL AND SCHUBERT

Zürcher Konzertchor. Conductor: André Fischer; soprano: E. Oltiványi; tenors: T. Brütsch and  T. B. Henter. Works by  Kit Powell and Franz Schubert.QB-8, Tonhalle Maag, Zahnradstrasse 22, tel. (+41) 44 206 34 34, 40-125Sfr, www.zko.ch.

05.05 18:30 & 06.05 17:00 » TONHALLE ORCHESTRA KRZYSZTOF URBANSKI & SOL GABETTA

Conductor: Krzysztof Urbanski; cello: Sol Gabetta. Works by Bedřich Smetana, Bohuslav Martinů  and Antonín Dvořák. QB-8, Tonhalle Maag, Zahnradstrasse 22, tel. (+41) 44 206 34 34, 40 - 150Sfr, www.tonhalle-orchester.ch.

16.05 19:30 » TONHALLE ORCHESTRA

Conductor: Lionel Bringuier; piano: Leif Ove Andsnes. Works by Arthur Honegger, Benjamin Britten, N. Rimsky-Korsakov. QB-8, Tonhalle Maag, Zahnradstrasse 22, tel. (+41) 44 206 34 34, 40-125Sfr, www.tonhalle-orchester.ch.

23.05 19:30 » CHAMBER ORCHESTRA EUROPE

Conductor: A. Pappano. Works by G. Ligeti and J. Brahms. QB-8, Tonhalle Maag, Zahnradstrasse 22, tel. (+41) 44 206 34 34, 40-125Sfr, www.tonhalle-orchester.ch.

OPERA & BALLET The Zurich Opera is a magnificent building near the lake shore built in 1891 by Austrian architects Ferdinand Fellner and Hermann Helmer. Check out the programme on their website. You can also buy tickets on the opera’s webpage, by phone or at the ticket office on site. Plays are usually with German and English subtitles. The shows of the Zurich Ballet Company directed by Christian Spuck take place here too.QF‑5, Opernhaus, Falkenstrasse 1, 8Opernhaus/Stadelhofen, tel. (+41) 44 268 66 66, www.opernhaus.ch. zurich.inyourpocket.com


Culture & Events EXHIBITIONS 02.03 - 30.09 » OÏPHORIE: ATELIER OÏ

To mark the opening of the refurbished main building of the Museum of Design, Swiss design agency atelier oï has staged several spacious installations in the large hall, which is now once again two stories high. The troika of the agency’s founding members lets visitors immerse themselves in an atmosphere suffused with light, colour and movement while creating a stage for the atelier’s multifaceted works. Its approach is interdisciplinary, international and spans all dimensions, from the coffee cup to the factory building. Its clients include Foscarini, Louis Vuitton, Nespresso  and  Röthlisberger and atelier oï also carries out self-initiated projects forever shaped by an interest in the manifold interrelations between materials, craftsmanship and form. Material studies, prototypes, products and pictures offer insights into both its  systematic and playful working methods. QE‑9, Museum für Gestaltung (Museum of Design), Ausstellungsstrasse 60, 8Museum für Gestaltung, Admission 10/8Sfr, www.museum-gestaltung.ch. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00, Mon closed.

Now that’s design: atelier oï on display at Museum für Gestaltung. PD

08.02 - 06.05 » ALICJA KWADE. LINIENLAND

This solo exhibition by renowned sculptor and conceptual artist Alicja Kwade (b. 1979 in Katowice, Poland) asks a number of important questions. How did the universe come about? What is reality? What is illusion? Do parallel worlds exist? In her multimedia work, Kwade takes such questions as a starting point and addresses a wide range of very different phenomena and conceptual models from physics, philosophy and sociology, vividly translating these into her distinctive art. This results in works that are as sensorially poetic as they are formally stringent. For this exhibition Kwade has conceived a new, extensive installation: a walkthrough grid structure, in which differently sized solid balls of natural stone float above the observers’ heads in apparent weightlessness.QE‑12, Haus Konstruktiv, Selnaustrasse 25, 8Stauffacher, tel. (+41) 44 217 70 80, 16/12Sfr, www.hauskonstruktiv.ch. Open 11:00 17:00, Wed 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

FOOD ZURICH FESTIVAL

PD

24.05 - 03.06 » FOOD ZURICH

For 11 days at the end of May, Zurich will be all about food and culinary delights. Taking place for the third time, this year’s Food Zurich festival brings more than 100 events to town, and it’s not just about eating and drinking. You can even learn something! You can attend workshops on how to make pasta or so-called nose-totail cooking lessons, just to name a few. Too much work for you? Don’t worry, there are plenty of events where you can just enjoy and savour and the range of cuisine is truly impressive. There is, for example, the rather laid-back Street Food Festival (an open-air event at the former Hardturm Stadium, May 24 - June 10), but Food Zurich will be evident all over town. This year’s festival theme is sharing. Dozens of restaurants will participate and offer a tavolata (where food is served in bowls to share). The restaurants will also share their chefs and kitchen staff, their herb gardens or offer their own takes on sharing. The centre of the festival, called Chuchi (kitchen), will be located at the Street Food Festival. You can expect workshops, cooking lessons and seminars and if you’re lucky you might even get a free sample of some delicacies when passing by. Another perfect way to experience Food Zurich is the Food Zurich Party, where some of the city’s best chefs will cook dishes in small portions (so you can taste a few), which can be enjoyed at a long table, not unlike a huge tavolata. It was a blast last year! The following is a list of some of the main events. Some require tickets, but for others you can just show up. Visit www.foodzurich.ch for more details. Enjoy or, as the Swiss say, En Guete! Thursday, May 24 Food Zurich Opening Night (at Jelmoli Food Market) Saturday, June 2 Fooby Food Zurich Party (at Engrosmarkt) Sunday, June 3 Market and breakfast (at Engrosmarkt) QFestival Centre Chuchi, Hardturmbrache, Hardturmstrasse, 8Hardturm, www.foodzurich.com. April – May 2018 15


Culture & Events CINEMAS

ROCK & POP CONCERTS

Zurich has more than a dozen cinemas, many of them with more than one screen and the large ones with up to 12 screens. Traditionally films in Switzerland are shown in their original language with German and French subtitles. But the big multiplex cinemas that have displaced some of the smaller ones in the last two decades have started to show more and more movies dubbed in German. In smaller cinemas you can still watch all movies in the original language – lots of them in English of course. They are marked with the letters Edf in the programmes (English with German (Deutsch) and French subtitles) - a D (capital) indicates the movie is spoken in German.

The German rock band Tocotronic is on tour with their brand new record Die Unendlichkeit. These guys play straight rock with no fuss, exactly as it should be.QE‑9, X-TRA, Limmatstrasse 118, 8Limmatplatz, 48Sfr, www.x-tra.ch.

ARTHOUSE MOVIE There are six Arthouse cinemas in Zurich, most of them situated in and around the Niederdorf part of the old town, most of them in old buildings with charm and style. The Arthouse Movie we list is the only one with more than one screen, showing studio and independent movies rather than blockbusters, just as the other Arthouse cinemas.QG‑13, Nägelihof 4, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 250 55 10, www.arthouse.ch.

09.04 20:00 » TOCOTRONIC

11.04 20:00 » BOB DYLAN

One of the most renowned artists of all time will hit the stage in Zurich: Bob Dylan. Since 1988 the Nobel laureate has been on his Never Ending Tour playing roughly 100 concerts a year. This is your chance to hear his masterpieces live.QI‑1, Hallenstadion, Wallisellenstrasse 45, 8Messe/ Hallenstadion, 88-170Sfr, www.hallenstadion.ch.

28.04 19:30 » DEE DEE BRIDGEWATER

The American jazz singer Dee Dee Bridgewater will perform with her groovy band the Memphis Soulphony. Expect songs from Dee Dee’s latest album Memphis... Yes, I’m Ready.QF‑13, Kaufleuten, Pelikanstrasse 18, 8Sihlstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 225 33 22, 85/65Sfr, www.allblues.ch.

KOSMOS Kosmos features six screens and is part of the new Europaallee district. The films shown here are so-called arthouse movies, so you can expect mostly international independent films. That said, Kosmos is much more than a cinema, as it’s also a bistro, a bar, a bookshop, a café and a club lounge spread out over three floors – a real cosmos of culture, indeed.QD‑10, Lagerstrasse 102, 8Sihlpost/HB, tel. (+41) 44 299 30 30, www.kosmos.ch. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00, bookshop 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00, bar/club Fri & Sat until 02:00.

02.02 - 23.09 » WHAT DOES SWITZERLAND EAT?

We buy and consume food on a daily basis, but where do our tomatoes, maize and strawberries really come from? Why do we use a knife and fork? What did people eat in the past and what will we eat in the future? Visitors will encounter a range of set tables, each one covering a specific topic of the exhibition’s rich spectrum including trends and taboos, provenance and production, dining culture and table manners, hunger and affluence, meat consumption and the future of food. You’ll also see portraits of some of Switzerland’s leading chefs and famous cookbooks will reveal the significance of food preparation. Naturally, the main focus is on the culinary heritage of Switzerland. This includes classics such as fondue and muesli, but also lesser-known specialities.QF‑10, National Museum (Landesmuseum), Museumstrasse 2, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 58 466 65 11, 10/8Sfr, www.nationalmuseum.ch. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. 16 Zurich In Your Pocket

American jazz singer Dee Dee Bridgewater.

PD

07.05 20:00 » HANS ZIMMER A SYMPHONIC CELEBRATION

Hans Zimmer, one of Hollywood’s most sought-after composers, decided to go on a live tour for the first time in 2016. He and his fans loved it so much that he decided to do it again. This time his hits from the movies Pirates of the Caribbean, Gladiator, Lion King and many more will be played by a symphony orchestra including huge projections of scenes from the movies. QI‑1, Hallenstadion, Wallisellenstrasse 45, 8Messe/ Hallenstadion, 77-172Sfr, www.hallenstadion.ch.

19.05 20:30 » STEFF LA CHEFFE

Steffe la Cheffe is one of the best known rappers in Switzerland. Her songs include socially critical lyrics, catchy tunes and serious beats. She’s on tour with her band.QB‑7, Moods, Schiffbaustrasse 6, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 276 80 00, 35Sfr, www.moods.club. zurich.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants

One of the more remarkable interiors in the old town: frescos and marble pillars at Zum Kropf (p. 26). | PD

Zurich has around 2,000 restaurants, bars and takeaways. No wonder you can find almost any kind of food imaginable: from down-to-earth Swiss to traditional Vietnamese, from Lebanese to Japanese and back again. But today many restaurants also cook in a mélange, international style and are not easily categorized. Nevertheless we have tried. We list the places we recommend within any particular category. For lunch, lots of restaurants offer special deals, usually considerably cheaper. Note that many restaurants close their kitchens between roughly 14:00 and 17:30 and in the evening at 22:00 or 23:00. For the evening we recommend you book a table. For more suggestions see www.zurich.inyourpocket.com.

ALPINE NEW ROSI Rosi brings some Bavarian treats to Zurich in a modern, urban atmosphere. In the evening it serves seasonal Bavarian classics like weisswürste (veal sausages), backhendl (whole fried chicken), trout and plenty of delicious Bavarian beer. For lunch, however, one simple dish is served. A second helping, bread, tap water and filter coffee is included for 26.50Sfr, which is more than fair. We absolutely loved the pichelberger stew as the beef was hearty and the different vegetables such as carrots, celery, cabbage and chervil really added some flavour.QB‑11, Sihlfeldstr. 89, 8Lochergut, tel. (+41) 44 291 68 25. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 18:00 - 24:00. €€. A­B facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

ASIAN NEELA With its Sri Lankan dishes, family-run Neela brings some very welcome new South Asian flavours to Zurich. As in many Asian venues, the menu has a sort of flow-chart logic: it’s based on different curries which you can order with different dishes. But apart from the very reasonable prices, that’s as far as the similarities with your standard take away go. Whether you order puttu (small pasta made from red rice flour), roti (unleavened bread) or any other dish, it arrives at your table carefully presented - and simply delicious!QC-12, Zweierstrasse 55, 8Bahnhof Wiedikon, tel. (+41) 44 242 71 11, www.neela.ch. Open 11:00 - 14:30, 17:30 - 22:30, Mon 11:00 - 14:30, Sat 11:00 - 22:30, Sun 17:00 - 22:30. A

SYMBOL & PRICE KEY A Credit cards accepted

X Smoker lounge

J City centre location

N No credit cards

8 Nearest tram station

C‑1 Map coordinates

€ €€ €€€ €€€€

most mains under 25Sfr most mains 25-40Sfr most mains 40-55Sfr most mains over 55Sfr April – May 2018 17


Restaurants Enjoy the taste of Asia in the sun! At Nooba, you will enjoy fresh, healthy dishes of Pan Asian cuisine directly at Zürich’s bustling Kreuzplatz. A special highlight is the large summer terrace.

THE BITE Burgers seem to be back on the locals’ hitlist. The Bite convinced us with their Classic burger - it was one of the best we have had in a long time. The beef was fried to perfection, the blend delicious and the cheddar cheese, the shallots and the sauces a great match. The homemade ketchup and cocktail sauces which came with the fries went down well too. We could do without some of the arty chichi - the drinks are served in jars and the burgers come on wooden chopping boards - but we would always come back for these burgers.QD‑11, Brauerstrasse 15, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. (+41) 44 242 30 00, www.thebite.ch. Open 11:30 - 13:30, 18:00 - 22:00, Tue 11:30 - 13:30, 18:00 - 21:30, Fri 11:30 13:30, 18:00 - 22:30, Sat 17:30 - 22:30, Closed Mon, Sun. €€. A­B

FINE DINING

NOOBA ZÜRICH Kreuzplatz 5 8032 Zürich 043 243 60 06 nooba.ch  nooba.restaurant

NEW NOOBA At Nooba you get quickly-served Asian dishes like curries, fried noodles, udon  noodles, soups  and the like. The green curry we ordered was hot and exquisitely spiced, we liked it. You’ll be seated at long tables on benches with other customers and  the food is prepared in a kind of open kitchen, so you can watch the chefs prepare your order. There are also many vegan and gluten-free options on the menu and it offers a  big outdoor terrace right on  Kreuzplatz.QI‑15, Kreuzplatz 5, 8Kreuzplatz, tel. (+41) 43 243 60 06, www.nooba.ch. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 14:00 - 23:00. €. ­A­B

BURGERS KORNER 14 different burgers are on offer at the Korner (incl. some for veggies). The two we had were a treat: the meat was still a little pink on the inside, soft and succulent. The fries were perhaps a tad overdone, but well seasoned. And did we mention we really like the simple interior with its parquet floor and high, period ceilings? This is no trashy burger joint. All ingredients here are local, the beef is from Swiss highland cattle - which may be why the burgers don’t come that cheap here.QE‑13, Gartenstrasse 10, 8Stockerstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 542 92 50, www.gourmetburger.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun, kitchen open until 22:00. €€. J­A­B 18 Zurich In Your Pocket

MAISON MANESSE This is extraordinary avant-garde cuisine in a comfortable and easy-going setting, where the homey white wooden panelling sets the mood. The plates created by chef Fabian Spiquel change frequently and feature experimental cuisine and other unusual cooking styles. Sometimes you even have to lend a hand and help finish preparing the dishes. The tartar, for example, came with a recipe and some essences like Katsuobushi whiskey and we even grilled the rosemary, honey and goat cheese marshmallows ourselves on an open flame at the table. Although you can choose items from the à la carte menu, many opt for Spiquel’s Michelin-starred surprise menu (around 150Sfr). The flavours they create here are amazing, but relax, not everything is completely off the wall. A steak is still a steak, but the one we had here was probably the most tender we’ve had in a long time. Recommended!QC‑14, Hopfenstrasse 2, 8Schmiede Wiedikon, tel. (+41) 44 462 01 01, www. maisonmanesse.ch. Open 11:45 - 14:00, 18:30 - 24:00, Mon 11:45 - 14:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00, Closed Sun. €€€€. A­B MESA We started our evening at Mesa with an unexpectedly vibrant and delicate cucumber and papaya salad made even better by the nori seaweed and cashew nuts. The secreto pata negra which followed was delicious, but what really blew us away was the monkfish with okra and Indian cress. The fish was tender and succulent and was complemented by a curry sauce that completely took our taste buds by surprise. For dessert we chose a Mesa classic, the heavenly apple pie. In short, chef Sebastian Rösch knows how to create exceptional flavours while keeping things rather simple at this stylish, yet unpretentious establishment.QG-9, Weinbergstrasse 75, 8Sonneggstrasse, tel. (+41) 43 321 75 75, www.mesa-restaurant.ch. Open 11:45 - 15:00, 18:30 - 24:00, Sat 18:30 - 24:00. Closed Mon, Sun. €€€€.A zurich.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants FRENCH BRASSERIE LIPP The real French brasserie experience in Zurich: sauerkraut (choucroute) with sausages, mussels (in summer not always available) with French fries, and a rich choice of sea food including oysters. The ArtDeco interior gives you a real feeling of Paris - but it’s in fact just off Bahnhofstrasse. The lift takes you up to the Jules Verne panorama bar in the tower of the city’s observatory, a great place to finish your evening with a cocktail and stunning views over the city.QF‑12, Uraniastrasse 9, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 43 888 66 66, www.brasserie-lipp.ch. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 01:00, Sat 11:30 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00, kitchen open until 24:00. €€€. J­A­B

CHEESE RESTAURANTS

Read more reviews online: zurich.inyourpocket.com MÈRE CATHERINE Mother Catherine’s menu majors in classics from Provence using plenty of fish, seafood, olives and rosemary. But she also does other French classics like onion soup or snails. Filled pasta like ravioles and cappelacci, usually home-made, are also standard features. The interior with uneven walls, dark tables and chequered tablecloths is pleasant and the kitchen reliable. The tiny bar Le Philosophe next door is good for a quiet drink.QG‑13, Nägelihof 3, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 250 59 40, www.commercio.ch. Open 11:30 - 24:00, kitchen open throughout until 22:15. €€. J­A­B recently renovated stable. This gives you a kind of alpinehut experience, which makes the extra bit of travel up the hill well worth it. It’s usually quite busy with both locals and tourists, especially on the weekend, when they do a good brunch. While there are 17 different kinds of fondue on offer, we recommend sticking to the house blend or the classic moitié-moité. They have meat and Swiss style pasta too, but remember, this is the Cheese Alp (Chäsalp), not the steak hut.QTobelhofstrasse 236, 8Tobelhof (Bus 751), tel. (+41) 44 260 75 75, www.chaesalp.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:30, 17:30 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:30, 17:30 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €€. AB

istock.com

The Swiss cheese specialities fondue and raclette originally come from the French-speaking areas of Switzerland. Fondue is a mix of melted cheese and white wine bubbling over a small burner which you dip bread cubes into, while raclette is pure melted cheese which is poured over boiled potatoes. The listed restaurants below are specialists. CHÄSALP Chäsalp is a former farm on top of Zürichberg, where fondue and raclette are now served in the ancient and

LE DÉZALEY For decades Le Dézaley has been dedicated to dishes from Vaud in western Switzerland. The fondue prepared according to a family recipe is very tasty and also comes in a version with morel mushrooms. A typical starter is airdried meat - or instead of fondue try one of the regional sausages. The old part of the restaurant is more charming, so try to get a seat there. QG‑13, Römergasse 7/9, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 251 61 29, www.ledezaley.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:30, 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun, kitchen open until 23:00. €€. J­A­B

like a mounta in cottage

Tobelhofstrasse 236 (+41) 44 260 75 75 chaesalp.ch

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April – May 2018 19


Restaurants wrapped in leaves of white beef on a creamy sauce were tasty, the veal liver came very tender and the rösti crispy. The waiter was very attentive, just as it should be.QG‑13, Limmatquai 52, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 252 33 62, www.zunfthaus-zur-haue.ch. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Closed Sun. €€. J­A­B

INTERNATIONAL

Baltho: a modern take on international cuisine.

PD

GUILD HOUSES Zurich’s guilds or zünfte are prestigious men’s clubs today, and many own a handsome mediaeval or early modern guild house in the old town where they meet. Quite a few of these guild houses are also restaurants which cultivate a traditional, refined cuisine. ZUM GRÜNEN GLAS A little bit off the beaten track on the upper edge of Niederdorf, the Zum Grünen Glas offers notable Mediterranean-style cuisine in the noble atmosphere of an old guild house. The classic here is the beef tartar it’s served either with basil and olives or Asian-style with wasabi and mango chutney. And yes, it’s very tasty. You will find fish, meat and some typical Zurich dishes like geschnetzeltes on the menu as well.QG‑13, Untere Zäune 15, 8Neumarkt, tel. (+41) 44 251 65 04, www.gruenesglas.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 17:30 - 23:00, Sat 17:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun, kitchen open until 22:00. €€. J­A­B ZUNFTHAUS ZUR HAUE The all-wood panelled walls make for a stately atmosphere in the refectory of the guild house Haue. Unsurprisingly, they serve traditional Swiss food here. The capuns, a pasta dough

BALTHO KÜCHE & BAR The Baltho is part of the Marktgasse hotel. In a contemporary interior design with dark wooden tables and chairs, they serve modern takes on international cuisine. The menu changes regularly. The bone marrow we had for a starter came on a wooden cutting board, the lemon chicken breast we chose as a main was tender with a well balanced taste. The slightly salty chocolate cake was the cherry on the icing. We liked the attentive service - a very successful evening.QG‑12, Marktgasse 17, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 266 10 14, www.balthokuechebar.ch. Open 11:00 - 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 24:00, Sun 18:00 22:00. €€. J­A­B NEW PIC-CHIC Just off Bahnhofstrasse you’ll find Pic-Chic, which is like a mini street food festival designed in the trendy pop-up style. A handful of vendors joined forces here to serve tasty street fare including Chinese cuisine prepared by Wesley, one of the city’s finest Chinese chefs, sushi by The Chedi and sandwiches or tartar dishes by Luma Delikatessen, to name a few. We ordered the Danish hot dog by Happy Souls, which was served with roasted onions and cucumbers, exactly the way they do it in Copenhagen. After you order at one of the stalls you can have a seat and the food will be brought to you. It’s definitely a good place for a break (you can also just grab a drink or a coffee at the bar) during a long day of shopping and the hip city centre crowd loves it.QF‑12, Kuttelgasse 10, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 222 00 81, www.pic-chic.ch. Open 06:30 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. JA­B

THE CLASSIC ITALIAN RESTAURANT

20 Zurich In Your Pocket

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Restaurants ITALIAN

VEGETARIAN & VEGAN TIBITS The bounteous vegetarian buffet is the focal point of tibits - where everybody queues up to choose from around 40 home-made salads, hot daily specials, soups, sandwiches and sweets. It’s more than plain tasty, believe us. tibits is very popular for lunch, dinner or coffee with all kinds of people. Sister restaurant ‘tibits im NZZ bistro’ around the corner at Falkenstrasse 12, (+41) 44 260 32 12 (Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00). QH‑15, Seefeldstrasse 2, 8Opernhaus, tel. (+41) 44 260 32 22, www.tibits.ch. Open 06:30 - 23:30, Fri 06:30 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:30, food served until 30 min before closing. J­A­B­S HAUS HILTL Hiltl is Zurich’s vegetarian institution par excellence. It’s simply amazing what they do with purely vegetarian ingredients. Just grab a plate and pick from the huge choice of curries, chutneys, salads and a lot more… Eating in the bar area is cheaper, while the restaurant area comes with table service and à la carte dishes. In the evening the bar doubles as a club.QF‑12, Sihlstrasse 28, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 227 70 00, www.hiltl.ch. Open 06:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00, kitchen until 22:30. Bar Fri, Sat & Sun - 04:00. J­A­ B­S W

4LEONI FIRENZE The spaghetti was firm, the succulent pieces of fried aubergine gave the tomato sauce the desired extra flavour and the ricotta cheese added on top not only pleased the eye, but added some real freshness to to dish. Yes, you could say that we were quite pleased with our meal and the easygoing waiter certainly made us feel like we were dining in Italy. That said, 4Leoni Firenze doesn’t only do great pasta, but also some other specialities from Tuscany like Polpette alla Fiorentina (meatballs) and the famous Bistecca Fiorentina (a T-bone from the grill). The Coccoloni family who owns the restaurant also runs a handful of successful establishments in Tuscany, which could explain its obvious authenticity.QD‑9, Luisenstrasse 43, 8Limmatplatz, tel. (+41) 44 271 00 66, www.4leonifirenze.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:30, 18:00 - 23:30, Sat 18:00 - 23:30. €€. A­B

Pop-up sytle atmosphere at Pic-Chic.

PD

CASA FERLIN Franz Ferlin, in charge at the Casa Ferlin today, belongs to the fourth generation of Ferlins at this Italian institution, with its time-honoured, classic interior and red-frocked waiters. What you absolutely have to try here is the fresh homemade pasta, especially the ravioli are delicious. The menu also features beef and veal, as well as a choice of fish. If in doubt, go for the veal filet al limone, another heavenly Ferlin classic. QG‑10, Stampfenbachstrasse 38, 8Stampfenbachplatz, tel. (+41) 44 362 35 09, www.casaferlin.ch. Open 11:30 14:00, 18:30 - 22:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €€€. J­A­X COMMERCIO While the heyday of Italian cinema may be over, this small ristorante brings cinema and italianità together in the most charming way. It stays lively well into the night, thanks also to the visitors of the Arthouse studio cinemas right next door. Surrounded by Art Deco elements, guests squeeze into the slightly tight seats to enjoy a plate of pasta, something the Commercio has got off to a fine art. QH‑14, Mühlebachstrasse 2, 8Stadelhofen, tel. (+41) 44 250 59 30, www.commercio.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00, kitchen open throughout until 23:00. €€. J­A­B facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

GETTING THE BEST OUT OF FRUIT AND VEGETABLES.

Vegetarian & Vegan Restaurant Bar Take Away Catering Seefeldstr.2|Falkenstr.12 next to the Opera House, Zurich www.tibits.ch|www.tibits.co.uk

April – May 2018 21


Restaurants SWISS CUISINE What the Swiss like to eat at home and when out is ­heavily influenced by their neighbours’ cuisine, especially the Italians. But what is real Swiss cuisine? Most Swiss would probably say: käsefondue (cheese fondue), a hot soup of cheese and white wine eaten by dunking cubes of bread in it. Delicious, but the smell can take getting used to. Raclette is another cheese speciality, melted cheese on potatoes served with different pickles and sides. Würste or sausages are also very Swiss, the bratwurst (usually veal) and cervelat (pork) being the most common. Züri gschnätzlets is a traditional Zurich dish, thin strips of veal cooked in a cream sauce, often with mushrooms. This is often served with rösti, a cake of fried grated potatoes, a bit like Spanish tortilla but also on the list of Swiss traditionals. Switzerland also has an impressive range of breads to go with the cheeses, e.g. the rich zopf (plaited loaf) is a favourite for Sunday breakfasts. Fondue chinoise and fondue bourgignonne are not traditionally Swiss, strictly speaking, but these two meat fondues are very popular too. Both involve dipping meat into a pot, full of either hot broth (chinoise) or oil (bourgignonne) and then enjoying with a range of sauces and sides. PANEOLIO The tiny tavern Paneolio is a great place to go for a generous helping of italianità. The atmosphere in here is chatty, the seating arrangement tight and the charming all Italian waiter patiently explains the changing all Italian menu. The pasta and the lamb chop we had were really good, but even better was the mixed antipasti platter with vegetables and dry meat. They usually also have many fish options. A really good choice, but not cheap.QD‑12, Cramerstrasse 8, 8Werd, tel. (+41) 44 240 02 50, www.paneolio.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:30, 18:30 - 02:00, Sat 18:30 - 02:00. Closed Sun, Kitchen open until 22:30. €€€. A­B VAPIANO At Vapiano, the food is prepared as you watch. You order right from the chefs at the open kitchen, and once your freshly made pasta, salad or antipasto (all prepared on

NEAR THE GROSSMÜNSTER „finest Provencal cuisine“

Simple, yet trendy interior design at Ooki.

PD

site) is ready, you take it straight to your seat. If you order a pizza, you’ll get a pager which will buzz for your attention when it comes out of the oven. All your orders are conveniently charged to a plastic card, you pay when you leave. The Vapiano concept is a success in 28 countries, and we do like the relaxed atmosphere and the fresh food à la minute. In Zurich you’ll find a second Vapiano at Sihlcity shopping centre (Kalanderplatz 9).QH‑14, Rämistrasse 8, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) 44 252 00 62, www.ch.vapiano.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00, kitchen open all day, last orders 30 minutes before closing time. €. J­A­BS

JAPANESE GINGER A fancy but excellent sushi restaurant in the Seefeld district with a modern, plain interior. At the small bar a conveyor belt supplies you with never-ending sushi creations. At the tables in the back you can not only enjoy the cold Japanese dishes but fried fish and dozens of warm Japanese treats as well. The food at Ginger’s is not only delicious, but pricey too. But you can dine with a good conscience: all their fish is caught using sustainable methods. Huge choice of different sakes available.QH‑16, Seefeldstrasse 62, 8Kreuzstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 422 95 09, www.ginger-restaurant.ch. Open 11:45 - 14:30, 17:00 24:00, Sat 17:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. €€€. A

RESTAURANT

Nägelihof 3 8001 Zurich +41 44 250 59 40

HOME

DELIV

www.v apiano

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commercio.ch arthouse.ch Bellevue · Rämistr. 8 / Sihlcity · Kalanderplatz www.vapiano.ch % 044 252 00 62 % 044 201 15 25

22 Zurich In Your Pocket

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Restaurants Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App OOKI Although we have to admit that we haven’t been to Japan recently, the simple style of Ooki is what we imagine a trendy venue in Tokyo would look like, especially the bright wood panelling, the Japanese characters and the assorted knick-knacks. Japanese chef Ooki and his son specialise in ramen and udon noodle soups, kareeraisu (Japanese curry) and donburimono (rice dishes with toppings). We began our culinary journey with some ippinryouri, which are like tapas, and then moved on to gyoza dumplings, which were a real treat. The soups were also perfectly prepared, especially the thick udon noodles - remarkable. To finish off we ordered ice cream served in a tasty rice dough. Reservations are essential, but if you can’t get one, try dropping by late and you might just find an empty seat or two.QB‑12, Zentralstrasse 53, 8Schmiede Wiedikon, tel. (+41) 44 461 15 86, www.ooki.tokyo. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00, Sun 18:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. €€. AB YOOJI’S DREIKÖNIG No matter if you prefer your sushi as a pleasant dinner at a table, a quick meal at the bar, as takeaway or from a kaiten (conveyor belt), the six Yooji’s locations in Zurich all serve good Japanese food. This one has an extended kaiten section, allowing you to sit face to face while the conveyor belt delivers your sushi. We enjoyed the friendly table service having chosen the mixed sushi-oke platter and had no regrets. There’s also a large selection of sake and some sake cocktails available at the bar or, if you’re a sake newbie like us, a taster set with three different sakes can also be had. Some other locations: Bellevue (H-14, St. Urbangasse 8), Langstrasse district (D-9, Josefstrasse 112), Seefeld (I-16, Seefeldstrasse 115).QF‑14, Beethovenstrasse 32, 8Stockerstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 578 17 07, www.yoojis.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €€. J­A

MEDITERRANEAN BAR BASSO We like the style at the Basso - it’s modern and pure, without being super-cooled. The Italian-Alpine menu is also definitely worth a mention, offering e.g. tasty tartar, excellent cheese lasagne and some great cuts of meat too. They also have a wood-fire oven for genuine pizze. If in doubt, go for the 5-course taster menu. The service is attentive, and on a sunny day, their colourful outdoor tables just overlooking the Sihl canal are a lovely place to enjoy a good cup of coffee.QE‑12, Sihlstrasse 59, 8Sihlstrasse, tel. (+41) 43 497 25 28, www.barbasso.ch. Open 08:00 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. €€. J­A­B

Sushi on the conveyor belt and the latest news on the screen at Yooji’s. PD

LES HALLES This garage-style restaurant offers mostly organic food from around the Mediterranean with a particularly French touch. The ever fresh moules et frites (mussels with French fries) are what a lot of people come here for, or the tasty beef tartar. The restaurant works like a market hall: you place your order at the kitchen corner and it‘s served to your table. It’s always very busy and loud - so come here rather for the outstanding fresh food and the industrial style than for a quiet evening with your significant other. There is also a delicatessen in the back.QB‑8, Pfingstweidstrasse 6, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 273 11 25, www.les-halles.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 02:00. Closed Sun, kitchen open until 13:45/22:00, Sat 18:00 - 22:00, snacks & tapas througout. €€. A­B

Mediterranean bar/restaurant/market hall, located at the heart of the culture and night-life district of Zurich West. Reservations: 044-273 11 25 or www.les-halles.ch facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

April – May 2018 23


Restaurants STEAKS & BARBECUE NEW GRAN SASSO The key feature of Gran Sasso is its charcoal grill, which can be found in the middle of the excessively decorated dining room (think oil paintings, mirrors and chandeliers). Naturally, grilled meat is one of its main specialities and we happily devoured an Argentinian rib eye steak without any regrets or complaints. The meat was juicy and grilled to a perfect medium as ordered and the fried potatoes came in two helpings. Our cuttlefish starter, however, was a touch too meaty for our liking, but the crema Catalana we had for dessert had a superb texture and excellent flavour. QC‑14, Manessestr. 38, 8Bahnhof Wiedikon, tel. (+41) 44 463 80 11, www.gran-sasso.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:30, 18:30 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00, Closed Sun. €€€. A­B SMITH AND DE LUMA We’ll be brief. We had a great evening at Smith and De Luma, a joint project by Smith & Smith wine purveyors and De Luma meat producers. The aged beef was outstanding, both the entrecote and the fillet, and not only was the meat tender, but the flavour created by the mould culture they add to the entrecote during the ageing process is simply remarkable. The same can be said for the starters. The goat cheese mousse on a beetroot tartar with some ‘burnt’ apple was an unexpected explosion of flavours, the artichoke soup was well balanced and firm in texture

and the mashed potatoes with cabbage and bacon was original and tasty. Naturally, given its owners, the wine recommendation by our friendly waitress, a Chianti from Tuscany, was a real treat. All of this comes at a price, but you won’t regret it.QA‑16, Grubenstrasse 27, 8Laubegg, tel. (+41) 77 411 31 22, www.smithanddeluma.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00, Mon 11:30 - 14:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. €€€. A

SWISS As it’s sometimes hard to tell what Swiss cuisine really is (see box Swiss cuisine, p. 22), we list some traditional restaurants here as well as some that interpret Swissness in a modern way. If you want to try the Swiss cheese specialities fondue and raclette, see the box on p. 19. We list the traditional Zurich beer halls in a separate category overleaf. They serve generous helpings of earthy local food - definitely not a bad way to explore Swiss cuisine either.

Contemporary cuisine in a homey environment.

Offers hearty traditional Swiss cuisine at affordable prices. Centrally located on Bahnhofstrasse at Paradeplatz.

open daily for reservations

24 Zurich In Your Pocket

11.30 – 23.00 +41 (0) 44 220 15 15 www.zeughauskeller.ch

PD

NEW DREIERLEI We had a truly delightful evening at Dreierlei where the sharing plates are named after the three main ingredients on the menu (Dreierlei means trilogy). We loved the whitefish (from Lake Zurich) with sloe berries and watercress and the three different sauces were a perfect match with the tender fish. The black venere risotto with goat’s milk cream cheese and yellow beetroot had some bite and was a pleasant combination of flavours. This is wellexecuted contemporary cuisine without being too chichi and the atmosphere at this ancient venue is homey. A good choice for an evening with your significant other.QB‑13, Zweierstrasse 114, 8Bahnhof Wiedikon, tel. (+41) 44 548 14 88, www.dreierlei-zueri.ch. Open 11:00 - 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00, Closed Sun. €€. A­B NEW HATECKE Butcher Ludwig Hatecke, or his son David, will probably greet you personally with a cordial allegra! when you enter this shop and bistro right on Löwenplatz. But the Romansh language isn’t the best thing they’ve brought with them from the Grison Alps to Zurich. It’s the meat zurich.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants that everyone loves. The Hateckes also run butcher shops in  Engiadine and collaborate with local farmers and hunters there, so you can get everything from venison and chamois to beef, much of it served as dried delicacies. Take a seat in the bistro and order a tartar, some ragout or beef carpaccio, like we did, or check out the meat that’s available at the counter. Usually they’re happy to give you a sample, so you know exactly what you’re buying, and sometimes even a glass of wine to make the experience even more special. That’s real hospitality, something else they brought down from the mountains.QF‑11, Usteristrasse 12, 8Löwenplatz, tel. (+41) 44 542 86 85, www.hatecke.ch. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Mon, Sat 09:00 19:00, Closed Sun. A MOHRENKOPF This is a pleasant place in plain style for Swiss fare, coffee and snacks or breakfast in the Niederdorf area, frequented by tourists and locals alike. The menu offers classics like chalbsgschnäzlets (veal in bite-size pieces) with rösti (hash browns) as well as more unusual dishes like capuns, an Alpine speciality of sausage and dumpling wrapped in chard leaves. Try them, they’re a treat. If you fancy a sweet to round off the meal, try a mohrenkopf, a chocolate covered marshmallow that gave the restaurant its name. QG‑12, Niederdorfstrasse 31, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. (+41) 44 262 05 45, www.mohrenkopf.info. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00, Kitchen open non-stop until 22:00. €€. J­A­B

Mohrenkopf in the busy heart of Niederdorf.

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ZEUGHAUSKELLER The Zeughauskeller (the arsenal) is situated in a mediaeval arsenal right on Bahnhofstrasse and serves good solid traditional Swiss fare: generous helpings of meat, sausages, schnitzel and roast. Popular with tourists, locals and lads out for the night, it’s a place where it’s easy to get to know people, as you share the big tables with other guests. Old military devices standing around are there to remind you where you are. So don’t get too drunk, or you might end up getting conscripted.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 28a, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 220 15 15, www.zeughauskeller.ch. Open 11:30 - 23:00, Kitchen open until 22:00. €. J­A­B

niederdorfstrasse 31 — 8001 zürich

continuing a tradition

since 1981

www.mohrenkopf.info facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

April – May 2018 25


Restaurants BEER HALLS RHEINFELDER BIERHALLE This is one of the oldest beer halls in town: a place where workers, students, and business men alike go for the big portions, good prices and traditional downto-earth food. The waiters have a rough charm, but serve the desired dishes quickly: schweinsleberli (pork liver), bratwurst, kidney, rösti or chnöpfli (small ballshaped noodles). If in doubt go for the jumbo-jumbo cordon bleu the Rheinfelder is famous for. But beware: the waitress will poke fun at you if you can’t take this piece of meat the size of an elephant’s ear.QG‑11, Niederdorfstrasse 76, 8Central, tel. (+41) 44 251 54 64, www.rheinfelder.ch. Open 09:00 - 24:00, kitchen open until 23:15. €. J­A­B WEISSER WIND This rustic tavern serves hearty Zurich fare like cordon bleu, geschnetzeltes, hörnli maccaroni with minced meat and the like - all in very solid quality. Beware of the devil’s noodles with beef cubes - they are a challenge even for experienced chilli fans. Service is friendly - not a bad place for experiencing some local cuisine.QG‑13, Oberdorfstrasse 20, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 251 18 45, www.weisserwind.ch. Open 11:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 23:00, Sat 17:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. €€. J SCHÜTZENGASSE At Schützengasse the simple restaurant interior dating back to the beginning of the last century was retained, but made much more light and airy. The menu majors on Swiss and Italian dishes and a selection of high-quality meat cuts. The ravioli with truffle cream sauce were very good and the swordfish solid, only the lunch side salad was rather spiritless. Popular with a well-dressed, cool clientele. QF‑11, Schützengasse 32, 8Bahnhofstrasse/HB, tel. (+41) 44 500 10 30, www.schuetzengasse.com. Open 11:30 - 14:30, 18:00 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. €€€. J­A­B


OASIS ON ZÜRIBERG Tobelhofstrasse 236 (+41) 44 251 11 93 tobelhof.ch 26 Zurich In Your Pocket

Lots of restaurants and beer halls on Niederdorfstrasse.

ZIYP

NEW JDABURG The menu of this simply furnished restaurant is inspired by Swiss and Italian cuisine. The onion-pastis soup we had for a starter was rich in flavour, the pastis adding a subtle twist to it. The lamb entrecôte was still light red on the inside and real tender. That said, the side dishes were, unfortunately, a little uninspired as the tagliatelle was just plain and the vegetables lacked salt and seasoning. Our waiter was laid back and friendly, but not much help in selecting a wine. However, the formidable affogato that we choose for dessert (vanilla ice cream in hot espresso) and the tasty liqueurs, which were on the house, quickly had us singing their praises.QA‑12, Gertrudstrasse 44, 8Lochergut, tel. (+41) 44 451 18 42, www.jdaburg.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:30 - 24:00, Sat 18:30 - 24:00, Closed Mon, Sun. €€€. A­B NEW TOBELHOF Located in an old farmhouse on Zürichberg on the edge of town, Tobelhof serves traditional Swiss food a rustic atmosphere. The local speciality geschnetzeltes with rösti was excellent: the small pieces of veal were tender, the cream sauce had a pleasant consistency and the rösti (hash browns) was crispy and firm. We were a little more daring in our choice of appetiser and tried the oxtail duo (the fried oxtail was truly divine, crispy and flavourful, but the clear broth could have been a touch stronger). The service was attentive and the iced coffee for dessert was sweet and delicious. It also offers a gorgeous terrace and getting there is easier than you might think. Take tram Nº 5 or 6 (12 minutes from main station) to Kirche Fluntern and then bus Nº 751 will drop you off right in front of the restaurant in only five minutes.QTobelhofstrasse 236, 8Tobelhof (Bus 751), tel. (+41) 44 251 11 93, www.tobelhof.ch. Open 09:00 - 24:00. €€. A­B ZUM KROPF The main hall of this traditional restaurant is quite impressive: the frescos above the wood panelled walls, the painted vaults, the stucco marble pillar and the mirrors with their rich baroque frames. The food is hearty and good. They have Zurich classics like geschnetzeltes and rösti, tripe Zurich style or calf’s head.QF‑13, In Gassen 16, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 221 18 05, www.zumkropf.ch. Open 11:30 23:00. Closed Sun. €€. J­A zurich.inyourpocket.com


Cafés Cafés in Zurich generally serve coffee Italian style (from ristretto to cappuccino) and many draw on the rich Swiss tradition of pastry and chocolate making. But there is no fixed definition of a café, most also serve alcoholic beverages, other snacks or even full meals and many double as bars in the evening rather than closing. BABU’S BAKERY You might have to queue to get one of this coffeehouse’s lovely sweets or excellent fresh sandwiches, but never mind, it’s worth every second of your time. Armchairs which remind us of our grandmothers’, wooden shelves filled with pottery and a fireplace make for a very cosy interior. And because you can not stay there forever, you can buy your favourite blend of coffee or tea, so you can enjoy some of Babu’s joys at home.QE‑12, Löwenstrasse 1, 8Sihlporte, tel. (+41) 44 212 87 45, www.babus.ch. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. J­A­B

An arty wall at Café du Bonheur.

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BOVELLI Bovelli is a stylish café right in the city centre. Its high ceiling, elegant wooden tables and designer lamps make for a smart atmosphere. The drinks and the food on offer are written on the huge blackboard behind the bar. In addition to the myriad coffee variations and blends, it also has plenty of desserts and some snacks, but if you head over here later in the day for a break from shopping, you can try one of many tasty cocktails. In fact, the owners seem to have transferred their passion for mixed drinks from their other successful endeavours.QF‑12, Sihlstrasse 20, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 210 40 60, www.bovelli.ch. Open 07:30 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. J­A­ CAFÉ DU BONHEUR This French-style establishment is where the cool and slightly alternative crowd of District 4 loves to hang out, and so do we. Wooden tables, a concrete wall and industrial lamps set the tone and the coffee we had was solid. The croissant stuffed with scrambled eggs and bacon energised us for the rest of our Saturday, the service was friendly and getting all of the little extras we asked for wasn’t a problem. Bonheur also has a pleasant outdoor seating area on Bullingerplatz next to the fountain and serves lunch and dinner with a French twist. A good alternative facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

to the city centre’s hipster cafés.QB‑10, Zypressenstrasse 115, 8Güterbahnhof, tel. (+41) 44 558 99 00, www.cafedubonheur.ch. Open 08:00 - 23:30, Sat 10:00 23:30, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. A­­B FELIX CAFÉ AM BELLEVUE Felix is the top dog among the coffee places around Bellevue. The spacious interior is opulently decorated with flowers, columns and mirrors. Try their homemade ice cream or the chocolade (chocolate milk) Felix is best known for. They serve all kinds of sweets as well as breakfasts from fast and simple to luxurious with salmon and champagne. Elderly ladies love this pricey café for their afternoon chat just as much as young, hip girls dropping in for a break from shopping. Classical concerts twice a month.QG‑14, Bellevueplatz 5, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) 44 251 80 60, www.cafefelix.ch. Open 07:30 - 22:00, Mon 07:30 - 21:00, Thu 07:30 - 23:00, Fri 07:30 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. J­A­B SPRÜNGLI CAFÉ Sprüngli has been around for 170 years and for locals it’s synonymous with excellent confectionery and chocolate. Their café is the place to stop for a coffee when shopping on Bahnhofstrasse. Try to get a window seat on the first floor overlooking Paradeplatz, order a coffee and choose something sweet from the display cabinet. Try their famed luxemburgerli, small macaroons with a light and airy cream filling in different flavours or some of their many varieties of chocolates. Unusually for Switzerland you pay at the cash desk when leaving.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 21, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 224 46 16, www.spruengli.ch. Open 07:00 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:30 - 17:30. J­A­B

BREAKFAST Sunday breakfast is an institution in many Swiss families. Zopf is one of the mainstays of Swiss breakfasts, a rich white bread baked in the shape of a braid, which is served with butter, jam, honey, cheeses or cold meats. Swiss bakeries bake a huge variety of breads rye bread, corn bread or potato-and-walnut bread to name just a few - which add to the breakfast spread. Buttery croissants, called gipfeli in Swiss German, are also a favourite. Another breakfast dish with strong roots in Switzerland is müesli, made of oat flakes, grated apple, ground hazelnuts and yogurt in the classic birchermüesli version. Here are some of our favourite breakfast places: BABU’S BAKERY, delicious breakfast daily with Swiss rösti (hash browns), scrambled eggs and much more on the menu. All-day brunch on weekends (see overleaf ). BEBEK It serves nice à la carte breakfast variations with an oriental touch every day until 16:00.QB‑12, Badenerstrasse 171, www.bebek.ch April – May 2018 27


Nightlife Zurich’s nightlife offers classy clubs, casual and alternative bars, as well as live-music venues and strip clubs. On the weekend people from almost half of Switzerland come to the city to have a good time. The main nightlife areas are Niederdorf in the old town (G-11/13), the streets around Langstrasse (C/D-10/11) and Zurich West (B/C-7/8). There is a lively club scene - but with dozens of bars around, bar-hopping can be just as much fun. Almost all venues accept credit cards these days, but it’s always a good idea to have some cash with you. If you prefer it on the quiet side, there are wine and cocktail bars in the old town and around Paradeplatz. Check out our listings. For more recommendations check www.zurich.inyourpocket.com.

SYMBOL KEY A Credit cards accepted

N No credit cards

E Concerts

K Restaurant

J City centre location X Separate smoker’s lounge

VAGABUNDO The Vagabundo is a hugely popular bar at Kalkbreite. The bookshelf-like rack that stores the bottles and glasses behind the bar and the colourful wall paper give it a real stylish touch. And the big wooden ship hanging on a wall is an eyecatcher. They do cocktails with verve here, which might be one of the reason it is loved by a young trendy crowd. They also do food like tatar, salads and sandwiches. Often concerts on Tuesdays, DJs on the weekendQC‑12, Badenerstrasse 156, 8Kalkbreite, tel. (+41) 43 544 40 97, www.vagabundo.ch. Open 13:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri 13:00 - 02:00, Sat 13:00 - 03:00, Closed Mon, Sun. A

CRAFT BEER BARS A Negroni is never the wrong way to start the night, especially at Morgarten. ZIYP

CASUAL BARS BARFLY’Z Rather than flies, this venue attracts the young and the beautiful. The interior is kept unpretentious – quite in contrast to the cocktail menu which fulfils every wish. Fizzes, juleps, coolers, caipirinhas, you name it. Not to mention a large choice of vodka, rum and tequila. During daytime the barfly’z is a good place for a coffee and they even serve some tatar and changing lunch options. But night-time is when the barfly’z really comes to life.QF‑14, Gotthardstrasse 21, 8Stockerstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 202 00 11, www.barflyz.ch. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Thu 08:00 01:00, Fri 08:00 - 02:00, Sat 17:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. Minimum age Fri & Sat is 22 years. J­A NEW MORGARTEN Morgarten is a typical district bar, perfect for a local experience or perhaps a good place to begin a Zurich-style evening. The dark wooden counter dominates the bar area, the mood is laid back and the crowd usually consists of more or less hip urbanistas sipping negronis, beers and the like. Modern interpretations of Swiss cuisine are served in the white dining area and when the weather is warm a pleasant outdoor area is available on Hallwylplatz. And if you feel like extending your bar tour, the Langstrasse nightlife district is just a short walk away.QD‑13, Morgartenstrasse 26, 8Werd, tel. (+41) 44 242 86 66, www.morgartenbar.ch. Open 11:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 24:00, Sat 17:00 - 24:00, Closed Sun. A­ 28 Zurich In Your Pocket

ELDORADO This eldorado is one for beer experts. At this cool joint they have 101 different beers for sale, many of them craft beers from small breweries from Switzerland and around the world. There are many specialities, for example from Belgium, some of which seem more in the champagne league. If you want to drink your way through the whole beer list, you can become an El Dorado. But you might need more than one evening. Ask the barmen for your personal card. Occasional concerts. QE‑9, Limmatstrasse 109, 8M-7, tel. (+41) 43 540 90 31, www.eldorado-zh.ch. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu 17:00 - 01:00, Fri 17:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Closed Sun. A­E THE INTERNATIONAL This bar is dedicated to craft beers from small breweries. They have a great choice of around 50 different ones from all around Switzerland on offer, and another 50 from around the world, many from Belgium, the US and Canada. Around 10 are on tap. The huge board on the wall behind the bar lists them grouped by types, like India pale ales, stouts, amber etc. to help you choose. Or tell the barkeeper what taste you like and he will be happy to help. Despite the many Swiss beers, lots of expats are regulars here. While the bar looked a touch too sterile when they opened, it now has the feel of a proper beer joint. You love craft beers? You will like it here.QD‑9, Luisenstrasse 7, 8Röntgenstrasse, tel. (+41) 79 345 78 72, www.theinternational.ch. Open 17:00 - 24:00. A zurich.inyourpocket.com


Nightlife CLASSY BARS GOETHE Situated on the ground floor of the Neue Zürcher Zeitung newspaper offices, this stylish bar offers everything a cocktail lover might want. The staff is fast even when the place is very crowded - be it at the bar or at your table. The red barstools, the black tables and the wooden shelf behind the bar give the place a classy atmosphere - the crowd honours this with their appearance: stylish, well dressed but not too chichi. They serve nice breakfast too.QH‑14, Sechseläutenplatz 10, 8Opernhaus / Stadelhofen, tel. (+41) 44 222 20 30, www.brasserie-schiller.ch. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri 07:00 - 02:00, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. A WIDDER BAR After a complete overhaul, the Widder bar not only has a more contemporary look but also a new cocktail concept called Follow The Flavour. We chose to follow chilli and got an amazing mix of Callle 23 tequila, lime juice and chilli syrup, which was hot and salty and definitely spiced up our evening. Widder, however, is still a classy establishment and has one of the biggest spirits libraries in the city, specialising in single malt whiskeys. It features hundreds of different brands starting with Bushmills 1608 Triple distilled and ending at the other end of the scale with the rare Black Bowmore Final Edition 1964 (4cl for 1,200Sfr). A piano player will entertain you while you relax on the red leather benches and enjoy a superb cocktail and courteous service.QF‑12, Widdergasse 6, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 224 24 12, www.widderhotel.ch. Open 11:30 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 02:00. A­E

COCKTAIL BARS MONTBLACK Have you ever had a chilli in your cocktail? Neither had we until we dropped by Montblack, that is. ‘Freestyle cocktailing’ is what they claim to do here - and we couldn’t describe it

CASINO SWISS CASINOS ZÜRICH More than 350 slot machines and the table games roulette, black jack, punto banco and texas hold’em poker on two floors make this casino the largest in Switzerland. The stakes on the table games set in at 2 Sfr – with practically no upper limit. For your physical well-being there are two bars and a lounge. The casino also has a smoker’s section. To get access you need to be at least 18 years old, well dressed and have a valid ID card or passport with you. The entrance fee is 10 CHF after 19:00.QE‑12, Gessnerallee 3-5, 8Stauffacher / Sihlstrasse, tel. (+41) 43 330 30 30, www.swisscasinos.ch. Open 11:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 05:00, Table games start at 14:00. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

It’s been overhauled but remains classy: Widder bar.

PD

any better ourselves. We boldly chose the Fiery Strauss on our first visit and when co-owner Brian started mixing the chilli, cucumber, strawberries, gin and elderflower syrup, we were sceptical, but the result made us true believers. A little sweet, a little hot, a little bitter - a little great, really! While the interior is rather earthy, the crowd is urban and relaxed. We’ll definitely be going again, and so should you. QC‑12, Elisabethenstrasse 28, 8Kalkbreite, tel. (+41) 76 577 12 76, www.montblack-bar.ch. Open Wed 18:00 - 01:00, Thu 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. A RAZZIA Zurich’s first cinema has been repurposed and Razzia in the Seefeld district now houses a stylish bar, as well as a restaurant. The interior designers have done a fine job as everything here is a delicate match from the beige bar stools and the blue floral print wallpaper to the unique wall lamps. It’s essentially a place for cocktail lovers, with both classics and more daring concoctions on offer, but during the daytime it’s also a café with breakfast and lunch options.QI‑16, Seefeldstrasse 82, 8Feldeggstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 296 70 70, www.razzia-zuerich.ch. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. A

DANCE BARS TALACKER The Talacker is still very popular with the city centre’s hip crowd. They kept the shabby style of the old café it once was and mixed it with wall paper decorated with huge dogs - just too cool to be true. Have an Asian-style lunch (soups, curries, 11:45 - 15:00), or simply mingle with Zurich’s twenty- and thirty-somethings having fun to the DJ’s records. Usually it is too crowded to dance, but don’t hesitate to give it a go, if you find half a square metre to do so.QE‑13, Talacker 41, 8Sihlporte, tel. (+41) 44 211 20 50, www.talackerbar.ch. Open 11:45 - 24:00, Thu 11:45 - 01:00, Fri 11:45 - 03:00, Sat 16:00 - 02:30. Closed Sun. A­K April – May 2018 29


Nightlife ALTERNATIVE BARS

PUBS & DRINKERIES

NEW BONESKLINIC The speciality of this alternative bar in the Wiedikon district is mead (met in German), an alcoholic beverage made of honey, water and spices. They have more than 100 different kinds from all over the world in stock, and while it’s served in a glass when you order it, true connoisseurs drink the sweet nectar from a horn, or even a Viking helmet! But that’s not all. The welcome shot is served in a skull - a plastic one, but still a unique touch. The young crowd, usually dressed in dark clothing, loves rock and metal music and knows how to party, but have no fear. Everyone is really friendly at this eccentrically cordial place - even to middle-aged guys in colourful shirts, like us.QB‑14, Austrasse 19, 8Schmiede Wiedikon, tel. (+41) 76 515 37 78, www.bonesklinic.ch. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 05:00, closed Mon, Tue. A

DUDA (CABARET VOLTAIRE) Walk through the museum shop of the Cabaret Voltaire (where Dada is claimed to have been born) and climb the stairs - and you will be in a small bar with comfy chairs and tiny wooden tables. The unpainted walls give it the desired artistic alternative touch. The fairly cheap beer draws students and travellers here. But the venue is well worth a visit even if you are neither. If there is no event in the big hall, you can sit there as well. They have 15 different kinds of absinth on the menu.QG‑13, Spiegelgasse 1, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 43 268 56 30, www.cabaretvoltaire.ch. Open 17:30 - 24:00, Fri 17:30 - 02:00, Sat 15:00 - 02:00, Sun 16:00 - 22:00, museum open 11:30 - 17:30, Sat 09:30 17:30, Sun 11:30 - 17:30. A

SAFARI BAR A simple, cool bar frequented by locals, just off the main pedestrian street in Niederdorf. Come here for a chat with your friends at one of the tables - or grab a seat at the bar where it is easy to get talking to others. In the background there is usually rock music - and if you have a drink in mind which is not on the menu - just ask for it. If they have the ingredients, they will be happy to prepare it for you.QG‑11, Zähringerstrasse 29, 8Central, tel. (+41) 44 262 12 40, www.safaribar.ch. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Thu 12:00 - 01:30, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:30, Sun 18:00 - 24:00. A

LIVE MUSIC Zurich offers all kinds of live music: jazz, pop, rock, metal, indie, gothic and much more. You will find bands playing somewhere every night of the week. The clubs and bars listed here focus on live music - we tell you what you can usually expect. Some are just open if there is a concert. For their daily programme, check the websites - or find all concerts on www.zueritipp.ch. MOODS With more than 230 concerts a year, the Moods is Zurich’s prime address for jazz, funk, soul, blues and world music. Big international names as well as many Swiss artists. After-show parties on the weekend.QB‑7, Schiffbaustrasse 6, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 276 80 00, www.moods.ch. ROTE FABRIK This centre of alternative culture funded by the city has about 100 concerts a year on their variously sized stages. On Tuesdays often concerts in the Ziegel oh Lac restaurant. In summer sometimes open-air. QSeestrasse 395, 8Post Wollishofen, tel. (+41) 44 485 58 58, www.rotefabrik.ch. 30 Zurich In Your Pocket

duDa: artisitc touches and solid drinks.

ZIYP

OLIVER TWIST The Oliver Twist in Niederdorf is a popular hangout for expats as well as locals. Are you looking for English beer, burgers, fish n’chips, chicken wings and salads? Relax, it’s all there. All the sports on numerous TVs - but be early for important games to make sure you get a place. Drunkenness is encouraged - but it’s easy to get in contact with people here anyway.QG‑12, Rindermarkt 6, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 252 47 10, www.pickwick.ch. Open 12:00 - 24:00. A­K

CLUBS DIE ZUKUNFT ‘The Future’ is a small club in a Langstrasse district basement, and is Zurich’s premier space for freaky electro, house and crossover party styles. The entrance is hidden in a passage between two buildings next to the Bar 3000 (which serves as a smoker’s lounge for the club). Getting past the doormen is sometimes difficult, though the policy is not obvious: you just have to fit to the crowd already inside. Once you are in, you will find revellers who don’t tire of partying until the break of dawn.QD‑11, Dienerstrasse 33, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. (+41) 43 535 60 13, www.zukunft.cl. Open Thu 23:00 - late, Fri, Sat 24:00 - late, Wed sometimes concerts. Bar 3000 open Tue Thu 17:00 - 04:00, Fri 17:00 - 24:00, Sat 20:00 - 24:00. Admission around 20Sfr, Thu free. AX zurich.inyourpocket.com


Nightlife GONZO This small but very tight rock and pop club (strictly no electro music, hip hop & rap on Wed) really is worth queuing for. You head down some stairs just next to the public phone on the corner and arrive in a cellar, where a dance floor, a bar and a constantly overcrowded smoker’s room await you for some serious rock ‘n roll. Gentlemen, start your engines! Tip: go early or if you ‘re lads, bring some girls with you to get in.QD‑10, Langstrasse 135, 8Helvetiaplatz, www.gonzoclub.ch. Open Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 23:00 - late. Admission around 20Sfr, Wed & Thu free until midnight. AX HIVE The Hive has set the pace of Zurich West’s nightlife for many years now and still does for house, techno and indie dance – which they play on different floors. The crowd from students to thirty somethings (usually) knows how to party. QB‑8, Geroldstrasse 5, 8Escher-Wyss-Platz, tel. (+41) 44 271 12 10, www.hiveclub.ch. Open Thu - Sat 23:00 late, afterhours on Sun. A JADE Fashionable Jade operates one of the club halls in the Kaufleuten building and draws a young, rich and beautiful party crowd. Have some cash or a credit card handy, as the style here is to order the spirits by the bottle. Girls really do dress up (‘tha less tha betta’) and men either show their muscles or their shirt collars - ideally both. The music is mainly RnB, hip hop, reggaeton and club hits.QF‑13, Pelikanplatz, 8Sihlstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 202 80 02, www.jade.ch. Open Tue, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 04:00. Admission Fri 25Sfr, Sat 30Sfr, Tue 15Sfr. Minimum age 21 on the weekends. A

Lovers of rock music finally have a place to call home at Minirock. ZIYP

MASCOTTE In this club you can feel the history: built around 1900 as a variété it has been a music and culture club ever since. Sammy Davis Junior and Louis Armstrong played here in the time of swing and big bands. Nowadays bands like Arcade Fire, The XX and MGMT played their first ever Switzerland shows here. But it’s a very popular party place too. International DJs (Martin Solveig, Jazzy Jeff ) and local heroes spin their tunes for all kinds of people: twens mix with thirty-somethings dressed from chic to indie. On Fridays the DJ plays all styles, on Saturdays the music is facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

either house, disco, hiphop, electronic or Latin. Check its website!QH‑14, Theaterstrasse 10, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) 44 260 15 80, www.mascotte.ch. Mon, Fri, Sat 23:00 - late, Thu 22:00 - late. Admission: Mon free, Thu & Fri around 15Sfr, Sat around 25Sfr. A­E­X MINIROCK With the opening of Minirock, lovers of rock, indie punk and the like finally have a new place to call home in Zurich. With strips of multi-coloured neon lights covering the ceiling and the wall, at first glance this small club actually puts one in mind of a retro disco lounge, but the crowd in black t-shirts with Motörhead logos and the huge guitar amplifier behind the bar make it clear that this is a place for some good old rock fun. But don’t worry. You’ll also fit in here even if you don’t look like Slash from Guns N’ Roses.QA‑11, Badenerstrasse 281, 8Zypressenstrasse, www.minirockzh.ch. Open Thu, Fri 20:00 - 04:00, Sat 22:00 - 04:00, admission: 5Sfr. Thu & Fri 20:00 - 22:00 free. AE

ADULT ENTERTAINMENT If you’re male and looking for the so-called ‘sins of the flesh,’ then Zurich has a lot to offer. Prostitution is legal in Switzerland, so you can find everything from strip bars and erotic massages to sex clubs and escort services in Zurich. While hardly an alpine Amsterdam, Zurich is an inviting destination if you’re looking for carnal pleasures and sexy ladies in various states of undress. Prostitution is not only legal but is also regulated by the city. Sex clubs need permission to operate and this is only granted if a business follows all of the security, health, social security and tax regulations, doesn’t place any undue pressure on the sex workers, ensures their health and guarantees violence prevention. For all these reasons, sex clubs are probably the best and safest option if you’re looking for sex in Zurich. Street prostitution is also regulated, but is only permitted in a few areas (i.e. Häringstrasse in the Niederdorf district) and only at certain times. Here are some reputable strip bars. Check our website www.zurich.inyourpocket.com for erotic massage parlours and sex clubs. We believe the places we list to be upstanding businesses, but we still recommend employing simple common sense when delving into the world of adult entertainment. CALYPSO Located in Niederdorf, Calypso claims to have the only shower show in town. Apart from that there is the standard stage with two poles and a huge mirror in the back.QG‑11, Niederdorfstrasse 60, 8Central, tel. (+41) 44 252 33 70, www.calypso-nightclub.ch. Open 19:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. April – May 2018 31


Sightseeing

What a view! Zürich West in the foreground, the city centre, the lake and the Alps beyond. | Zurich Tourism

Zurich’s largely intact medieval town on the one hand and its natural setting on the other are the city’s charms. It also has an excellent range of museums and galleries showing international art. Admission to many places is free, if it does cost we indicate the full price followed by reduced price, usually the children’s price, e.g. 10/5Sfr. Museums are usually closed on Mondays.

MAIN SIGHTS If you ask someone from Zurich which of the city’s sights represents Zurich best, they’ll probably point to the Grossmünster, its unmistakable double towers making it the closest Zurich has to a landmark. Wasserkirche and Fraumünster complete the trinity of famous churches. Lindenhof is where Zurich started off and is a lovely spot today, while the central police station is another unlikely lovely spot - unless maybe you’re escorted there. Its entrance hall is splendidly decorated with work by Augusto Giacometti. But two of Zurich’s major attractions are not man-made at all: the lake and the Uetliberg peak. FRAUMÜNSTER Today most people come to Fraumünster to see the magnificent stained glass windows in the choir created by French artist Marc Chagall in the early 1970s, or the windows by Augusto Giacometti. But in days gone by this Gothic abbey dating from the 9th century was more than just pretty. Fraumünster, which literally means women’s abbey, belonged to the Benedictine convent whose abbess had wide powers in Zurich. Women came on harder times 32 Zurich In Your Pocket

in the 16th century. The little archway on the outer corner of Fraumünster (Poststrasse/Münsterhof ) was used to limit decadence and elaborate clothing, and women’s wide hoop skirts had to fit through here, or else a fine was due. Since summer 2016 the crypt is open to visitors. Be considerate, no photos, no visiting during Sunday services.QG‑13, Stadthausquai 19, 8Helmhaus, www. fraumuenster.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 5Sfr, incl. audioguide (available in 8 languages) or brochure and admission to crypt museum. Children free. Groups must book time slots in advance. GIACOMETTI MURALS In the entrance hall to the city’s police headquarters, Augusto Giacometti’s (1877 - 1947) magnificent murals adorn the vaulted ceiling and the walls. We think this impressive work is a must see for any Zurich visitor! The Giacomettis were a family of artists: Augusto’s cousin Giovanni (1868 - 1933) and Giovanni’s son Alberto (1901 - 1966) were successful artists too. And while Alberto and his haggard bronze figures are probably the best known Giacomettis (you can see some of those figures in the permanent exhibition at Zurich’s Kunsthaus), Augusto had the strongest connection to Zurich, as he studied and later lived here. And the murals in the entrance hall of Zurich’s police headquarters (1923 - 1925) is not the only work of his you can see in the city: he revitalised the art of stained-glass windows, creating the choir windows in the Grossmünster (1932), the window depicting paradise in the northern transept of the Fraumünster (1945) and windows in the Wasserkirche. The murals however, remain zurich.inyourpocket.com


Sightseeing the work he is best known for. Admission to the murals is free, the opening hours are quite short though.QG‑12, Polizeiwache, Bahnhofquai 3, 8Bahnhofquai/HB. Open 09:00 - 11:00, 14:00 - 16:00, ​Admission free, ID required. GROSSMÜNSTER The two towers of the originally Romanesque Grossmünster are Zurich’s landmark and they also offer a great view over Zurich, if you make it up the 187 narrow steps (5/2Sfr admission for the tower, open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:30 - 17:00). According to legend, Felix and Regula, Zurich’s patron saints, were beheaded at the site of the Wasserkirche and then walked up to where the Grossmünster stands, taking their heads with them. Centuries later the emperor Charlemagne was passing through Zurich and decided to found a church in honour of the martyrs - after a hint from his horse. Since the Reformation the church has a barren feel, alleviated only by the windows. German artist Sigmar Polke finished 12 simply beautiful windows in 2009, partly made of semi-precious stones. Crypt and cloister with a museum on the Reformation are also accessible. Audioguide in different languages available (5Sfr plus 5Sfr deposit).QG‑13, Grossmünsterplatz, 8Helmhaus, www.grossmuenster.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:00.

Only for those free from vertigo: the tower of Grossmünster. 

Zurich Tourism

UETLIBERG The Uetliberg is Zurich’s own little mountain, marking the end of the Albis mountain chain on the western side of Lake Zurich. It rises up to 869 metres a.s.l. - towering around 450 metres over the city. There is a lookout tower on top (admission 2Sfr) bringing you to exactly 900 metres a.s.l. and offering a stunning view over the city, the lake and on to the Alps. The mountain is a popular local recreation area all year round. There is a train (S10 from track 21 or 22) from the main station twice an hour (more on weekends). Be aware that you need an additional ticket even if you have a day pass for Zurich (with a day pass, buy a 1 - 2 additional zones’ day ticket at the ticket machine). From the terminal station it’s an easy 10-minute walk to the peak with the lookout tower and a restaurant. You can also walk up from the city to the peak. Take tram N°13 in direction Albisgüetli and get off at the last stop. From there two different paths lead to the top, both take about an hour. You do not need hiking equipment, but we recommend good shoes and staying on the path. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

LAKE ZURICH

Zurich Tourism

The lake is certainly one of the city’s highlights and a walk along the shores is a must, whatever the season. Start for example at Bellevue and walk along the promenade towards Zürichhorn. After a few hundred metres a park fills the expanse between the lake and the street. The huge Blatterwiese, also known as Chinawiese because the Chinese garden is just next to it, is popular for relaxing, sunbathing or playing sports. There is also a playground for kids. Continuing, you get to Zürichhorn, a small delta with some lakeside restaurants and later still to the railway station Tiefenbrunnen where you can hop on a tram (or train) back to Bellevue. The western shore of the lake is a bit less popular though just as nice for a walk. Start at the Arboretum and walk along the shore passing Enge port, the cactuses of the Sukkulentensammlung, and the Mythenquai until you reach the Landiwiese, a large field where many cultural events take place. If you go just a little further, you can enjoy a beer in the restaurant of the offstream cultural centre Rote Fabrik (red factory), marked by the red brick factory chimney. LAKE ZURICH CRUISES The Lake Zurich Navigation Company operates ships on Lake Zurich and the River Limmat. If you just want ten minutes of captains’ uniforms and brass foghorns, the routes Bürkliplatz-Wollishofen and BürkliplatzZürichhorn are included in any public transport ticket covering zone 110, but you need to buy a 5Sfr boat surcharge (available on board). If that’s not enough for you, go the whole hog with a roundtrip. There are different cruises all year round. They all start from the port at Bürkliplatz close to Bellevue several times a day. The short cruise (90 minutes) for example starts in summer every 30 minutes between 09:10 and 18:40 (19:40 May - Sept), the 4-hour one at least four times a day. Tickets and timetables are available at the port. QF‑14, Bürkliplatz, 8Bürkliplatz, tel. (+41) 44 487 13 33, www.zsg.ch. Tickets for roundtrips 8.80-34.40Sfr (plus 5Sfr boat surcharge), children half the price, discount with Zurich public transport day cards. April – May 2018 33


Sightseeing MEET JOYCE, LENIN & CO Artists, scientists, political visionaries - Zurich has been home to some great minds. You can find their traces in museums, the houses they lived in and even in a pub! The genius par excellence and later Nobel prize winner in physics, Albert Einstein, studied at the Polytechnikum from 1896 to 1900, today’s Federal Institute of Technology (ETH). Future Russian revolutionaries Vladimir Lenin and his wife Nadezhda Krupskaya spent a year of their exile in Zurich. And the couple Emmy Hennings and Hugo Ball triggered a revolution right in Zurich itself: the anti-everything art movement Dada. Another war refugee, Irish author James Joyce, wrote large parts of his Ulysses in Zurich from 1915 to 1919 and died here in 1941 (photo above shows his grave). The furnishings of the James Joyce Pub are from the Jury pub in Dublin, mentioned in Ulysses. Renegade psychoanalyst Carl Gustav Jung worked at the Burghölzli psychiatric asylum from 1905 to 1909 and Thomas Mann, author of epics such as the Buddenbrocks, had close ties to Zurich and died here in 1955. The Thomas Mann Archive runs a small museum about him. SITES AND ADDRESSES EINSTEIN: Residence, Unionsstrasse 4, 8Hottingerplatz LENIN: Residence, Spiegelgasse 14, 8Rathaus DADA: Cabaret Voltaire, Spiegelgasse 1, 8Rathaus JAMES JOYCE: James Joyce Foundation, www.joycefoundation.ch; Grave: Friedhof (Cemetery) Fluntern, Zürichbergstr. 189, 8Zoo; James Joyce Pub, Pelikanstrasse 8, 8 Rennweg THOMAS MANN Thomas-Mann-Archiv, ETH Hönggerberg, LeopoldRuzicka-Weg 4, www.tma.ethz.ch. Open Mon - Fri 10:00 - 17:00. LINDENHOF This idyllic square on a little hill in Zurich’s old town used to be an important place. The Romans set up shop here and later mediaeval royals would stay here when travelling in the region. Check out the replica Roman tomb stone in the right-hand wall of Pfalzgasse leading down and out of the square. The view from here over the Limmat is very pretty and on sunny days you can join in a game of chess at the back of the square.QG‑12, 8Rathaus. 34 Zurich In Your Pocket

CHURCHES See main sights at the beginning of this chapter for the churches Fraumünster and Grossmünster. ST. PETER St. Peter church is the one with the huge clock-faces on all four sides of the tower you can spot from far away. The diameter of the clock-faces is almost 9 metres - they are said to be the biggest in Europe. The first mayor of Zurich, Rudolf Brun, was buried here in 1360 - a copy of his tomb stone can be seen on the northern side of the church. The nave of the church was finished in 1706, while the choir and the tower date from a Romanesque church built in 1230. This was the first church in Zurich that was built as a Protestant place of worship after the Reformation.QF‑13, St.-Peter-Hofstatt, 8Paradeplatz, www.st-peter-zh.ch. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. WASSERKIRCHE The Wasserkirche, water church, is on the banks of the Limmat - but still, why the name? Actually, it was on an island in the river until the Limmatquai was built in 1839. Dating at least from the 10th century, what you see today is late Gothic style from the 15th century. See also the stained glass windows by Augusto Giacometti in the choir and the crypt with tombs almost as old as the church. A statue of forbidding Huldrich Zwingli stands at one end. Under the stone arches outside, the Kunstkiosk (art kiosque) sells books and prints and street musicians set up shop. If you get lucky you’ll hear the accordionist who gives masterful Bach recitals. Helmhaus gallery in the same building.QG‑13, Limmatquai 31, 8Helmhaus, www.wasserkirche.ch. Open 12:00 - 15:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 17:00, Closed Mon, Tue.

GARDENS & PARKS MFO-PARK This is one of the most amazing parks we’ve seen. It’s basically a modern take on an ancient concept: a multistory metal rectangle covered in plants which you can explore on a number of levels. The main hall also boasts four huge chalice-like fountains that also happen to be enveloped with florae. There are several stairways to choose from, so you can actually climb to the upper floors of the structure and walk on different paths that often lead to unexpected views. Naturally, the leaves change colour with the seasons, so you can visit throughout the year and always see something new. At the very top, many metres above ground, you’ll find a sun deck where you can rest and take in the view of Zurich’s northern end. This unique complex has the same proportions as the adjoining former industrial hall and has been successfully integrated into this district in Zurich Nord. A real gem! The fastest way to get there from the centre is by S-train to Oerlikon (five minutes).QElias-Canetti-Strasse, 8Bahnhof Oerlikon. Upper stories closed Fri & Sat 22:00 - 06:00. zurich.inyourpocket.com


Sightseeing VILLA & PARK PATUMBAH Smoking does have its advantages. This opulent villa was financed by smokers - it was built by Carl Fürchtegott Grob who made his huge fortune with tobacco plantations in South-East Asia. For his home in Zurich he hired architects Chiodera and Tschudy in the 1880s and provided them with an almost infinite budget. The result was a magnificent villa with an explosion of styles - Baroque, Gothic and Italian Renaissance blend organically with ornamental elements from East Asia. After long years of neglect, the villa has been painstakingly restored and is now home of the Swiss Heritage Society (www.heimatschutzzentrum.ch) and partly open to the public, as is the English landscape garden surrounding it. Pick up one of the wooden chairs, find a sunny spot and enjoy a moment of bliss - you could even have a smoke.QZolllikerstrasse 128, 8Fröhlichstrasse. Open 06:00 - 22:00, villa (incl. architectural history exhibition) open 14:00 - 17:00, Thu & Sun 12:00 - 17:00, Mon & Tue closed. Public tour incl. a visit to the 2nd level of the villa every Thu 12:30. Admission10/5Sfr, park free.

A multi-storey metal rectangle covered in plants: the amazing MFO-Park. Agata Muszyńska

MUSEUMS & ART Zurich is a real city of museums - there are 43 of them with all kind of exhibitions. We list the most popular ones and the ones we like best. You can find more information in English on all the museums on www.museen-zuerich.ch. KULTURAMA - MUSEUM OF MANKIND The enormous wooden bone-come-bench lying in front of this museum’s entrance is the first clue as to what awaits the visitor here. But it’s more than just bones: one exhibition sequence shows the evolution of life right up to humans and the first civilisations, the other the cycle of human life - with lots of exhibits, not just bones. There is also a discovery trail for children, with much to touch, listen to, look at and measure. Good for younger and older children, café on site. Usually there is an additional temporary exhibitionQI‑13, Englischviertelstrasse 9, 8Hottingerplatz, tel. (+41) 44 260 60 44, www.kulturama.ch. Open 13:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 12/8/4Sfr. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

April – May 2018 35


Sightseeing MARKETS FLEA MARKET KANZLEI This is probably Switzerland’s biggest year-round flea market. Up to 400 people put their second-hand goods on sale here every Saturday, professional traders as well as people who are just flogging things they don’t need anymore.QC‑11, Kanzleistrasse 56, 8Helvetiaplatz, www.flohmarktkanzlei.ch. Open Sat 07:20 - 16:00. ROSENHOFMARKT Incense sticks, trinkets and hippie-style clothes are on offer on Thursdays and Saturdays at the Rosenhof, a hidden square in the Niederdorf part of the old town. Artists also sell their handcrafted jewellery and pottery. There is also food from around the world. QG‑12, Rosenhof, 8Rathaus, www.gld.ch. March - December Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. FIFA WORLD FOOTBALL MUSEUM Zurich is the hometown of the International Federation of Association Football or FIFA. Its very own museum tells the history of football, FIFA and the World Cup over more than 3,000m2. You’re initially met with the jerseys of all 211 FIFA member associations, which are on display in a kind of colourcoded rainbow, as well as a timeline that takes you through the history of FIFA. The second floor is dedicated to the World Cup complete with dozens of historic artefacts including the tracksuit that football’s first real star Pelé wore in 1958. And yes, the original FIFA World Cup trophy is also on display! The third and last floor is dedicated to the impact football has had and continues to have on society. There’s also a gaming zone with giant pinball machines where you and your kids can test your skills with actual footballs. The museum is great for football fans and families and a bistro, a café-bar, a shop and the Sportsbar 1904 can also be found at the museum.QE‑15, Seestrasse 27, 8Bahnhof Enge, tel. (+41) 43 388 25 00, www.fifamuseum.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 24/14Sfr, students 18Sfr, kids younger than seven free, families 64Sfr. KUNSTHAUS Zurich’s major art museum has an impressive collection with work by many Swiss artists such as Füssli, Hodler, Segantini or Bill and the largest collection of Alberto Giacometti’s work including some of his trademark haggard statues. Work by international artists like Manet, Van Gogh, Kokoschka or Baselitz also please the eye and mind. Additionally there are usually two very worthwhile temporary exhibitions, one large, one small (see section Culture & Events). English language audioguides available. Café and shop on the ground floor.QH‑13, Heimplatz 1, 8Kunsthaus, tel. (+41) 44 253 84 84, www.kunsthaus.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission for collection 16/11Sfr, for exhibitions 23/18Sfr, combined ticket 26/19Sfr. Free admission to the collection every Wednesday. 36 Zurich In Your Pocket

SCHWEIZER FINANZMUSEUM (FINANCE MUSEUM) With all its banks Zurich is known as the city for finance and money and it finally has a museum dedicated to the subject. What are stocks, how were they traded and how does it work today? And how did Switzerland become an important marketplace for finance? These questions and more are answered by audio installations (Alfred Escher, Zurich’s railway pioneer and founder of the bank Credit Suisse, will explain everything to you!) as well as interactive video installations. Want to go public with your company? No problem, a friendly gentlemen on a video screen will explain the process to you. There’s also a short trainee programme available for stockbrokers and a game where you can prove your skills afterwards. In this year’s special exhibition, original securities with signatures of famous people like Charlie Chaplin, Johann Wolfgang Goethe and many others are on display. The museum gives you an insight into the world of finance and is situated in the headquarters of SIX, the company that operates the Swiss stock exchange. You can also download its free app to your smartphone, which will guide you through the museum. QA-7, Pfingstweidstrasse 110, 8Sportweg, tel. (+41) 58 399 32 88, www.finanzmuseum.ch. Open 10:00 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 10/8Sfr, children up to 12 years free.

It’s all about stocks, stockbrokers and finance at Finanzmuseum. PD

TRAM MUSEUM AND VINTAGE TRAM Uniforms, ticket machines, model-trams and of course lots of old trams from days gone by are on show in this one-time tram depot. It’s quite a hands-on exhibition, so good for kids, but also has a few things to say about how traffic systems shaped the city - unfortunately in German mostly. But you have to catch the best part of this museum - Zurich’s oldest tram (from 1897) runs from the main train station through Bahnhofstrasse to the tram museum and back as tram N°21. It leaves every last weekend of the month from the stop Usteristrasse which doesn’t exist otherwise, just off Bahnhofstrasse next to Globus department store. Normal public transport tickets are valid. QForchstrasse 260, 8Burgwies, tel. (+41) 44 380 21 62, www.tram-museum.ch. Open 13:00 - 18:00, Closed Tue, Thu, Fri. 12/8/6Sfr, families 24Sfr. zurich.inyourpocket.com


Sightseeing Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App

MORE FOR LESS WITH THE ZÜRICH CARD You’re in town for only two days? Too short, but the Zürich Card can help you make the most of it.

SIGHTSEEING TOURS BEST OF ZURICH - ZÜRICH CITY TOUR Enjoy a city tour in an air-conditioned coach including a short stroll through the old town and a ride with the Dolderbahn rack-and-pinion railway up into the residential area of Zürichberg. In a little more than two hours you get to see Bahnhofstrasse and the financial district, the old guild houses and the universities. There’s live commentary in English and German as well as audio guides in Spanish, Russian, Chinese and Japanese. In addition to the city tour, the company also offers tours to Titlis, Pilatus, Rigi, the Rhine Falls and Jungfraujoch, just to name a few. Excursions for small groups and adventure packages are also available. Visit www.switzerland -tours.ch for more information.QF‑10, Bus Terminal Sihlquai, 8Sihlquai/HB, tel. (+41) 44 710 50 50, www.switzerland-tours.ch. Starts daily 10:00, 13:00 and 15:30 at the Sihlquai bus terminal next to the main train station. Tickets available on the spot, but reservation by phone/website is recommended. Tickets 34/17Sfr, 10 - 20% discount with the Zürich Card.

For a busy day or two in Zurich, you can’t really go wrong with the Zürich Card. It gives you free entry to a number of great museums like the National Museum and dozens more. It also gets you a 10% discount in lots of shops, e.g. Meng cutlery or Vollenweider Chocolatier. You get free entry to several of Zurich’s best clubs and to the casino and many restaurants will give you dessert on the house with the card or some other extra, if you have a main course first. The Zürich Card also gives you unlimited use of trams, buses and trains within the city and includes the train trip from and to the airport, and the trip up to Zurich’s little mountain Uetliberg. Now that’s a deal!QThe Zürich Card costs 27/19Sfr for 24hr and 53/37Sfr for 72hr. Buy it at SBB counters, at the airport, train stations, at the tourist information at the main station or at all VBZ public transport sales points and from all ticket machines in town (stamp it before you set off!). Check www.zuerich.com/zuerichcard for the full range of discounts. The Zürich Card is issued by Zürich Tourism who cooperate with Zurich In Your Pocket.

meiertours.ch Hans Meier Tourist Ltd. • Gray Line Switzerland

4 383 78 78

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The Zurich Experience City Tour with audio-guided commentary

Regular Sightseeing Tours Free WiFi on-board

Exciting tours to Glacier Paradise Mt.Titlis, Jungfraujoch, Heidiland, Lucerne … and many more

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April – May 2018 37


Sightseeing SEGWAY CITY TOURS Explore Zurich on a Segway - a two-wheeled, selfbalancing electric vehicle. This slightly eccentric guided tour in English and German takes two and a half hours and includes a 40-minute instruction on how to drive the Segway. There are several stops on the lake, on Bahnhofstrasse and Limmatquai. Minimum age is 16, no driving licence needed.QC-16, Hotel Engimatt, Engimattstrasse 14, tel. (+41) 848 734 929, www.segwaycitytours.ch. Wed - Sun daily at 14:00. Book by phone before 18:00 the day before. 109Sfr. More tours in summer, check its website. STORIES OF THE OLD TOWN - GUIDED WALK A professional guide will take you on this two-hour walk through the old town of Zurich. What links famous literati, scientists or visionaries such as Albert Einstein, Lenin and the Dadaists with Zurich? Discover the city’s history and listen to anecdotes from its past in English and German. Good choice if you really want to see the old town, where the bus tours can’t go. For other walks such as the ones on design and gourmet food or Reformation ask at the Tourist Information at the main station. Reservation by phone recommended.QG‑11, Tourist Information Main Train Station, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 44 215 40 00, www.zuerich.com. Starts at the Tourist Information at the main train station. Daily 15:00, Sat & Sun 11:00 (German) & 15:00 (English). 25/12.50Sfr, 50% discount with Zürich Card.

Admire St. Peter’s clock in the old town.

Zurich Tourism

THE ZURICH EXPERIENCE CITY TOUR Ride around Zurich in a modern panorama coach. The two-hour tour gives you an overview of the city showing you the financial district, Bahnhofstrasse and a part of the old town including the Grossmünster, Fraumünster and St. Peter’s churches as well as the posh residential areas on Zürichberg. Commentary including some insights into the history of the city is provided via headsets in eleven languages (English, French, German, Italian, Spanish Japanese, Portuguese, Russian, Chinese, Hindi, Arabic). They also offer many other tours, including trips to Lucerne, Mount Pilatus, Jungfraujoch and more. See website for more tours.QF‑10, Bus Terminal Sihlquai, 8Sihlquai/ HB, tel. (+41) 44 383 78 78, www.meiertours.ch. Daily 09:45, 12:00 & 14:00. Tickets 34/17Sfr, available on the spot, reservation by phone recommended.

CITY TOURS

EXCURSIONS Bookings +41 (0)44 710 50 50 38 Zurich In Your Pocket

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Old-town stroll at the top of Marktgasse and now you’re on the main throughway of pedestrian Niederdorf, the other part of the old town. On the right is 5 Cabaret Voltaire, from where the Dada movement - jolifanto bambla o falli bambla - set off to confuse the bourgeoisie in 1916. A little further on to the left, set back in a little courtyard, is Schober, a richly decorated sweets and pastry shop worth at least a quick visit. Directly opposite are Schwarzenbach coffee roasters - the irresistible smell gets even better if you stick your nose inside. Strolling further along Münstergasse you pass the Bodega Española on your right, where in the 1950s author Max Frisch used to drop in for a beer and a few tapas.

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On the other end of the bridge you have the Rathaus, the town hall, to your right and the Rathaus café to your left. Our rigorous ramble takes us straight ahead, across the tram lines on Limmatquai and into Marktgasse, where you’ll find one of Zurich’s prettiest flower shops. Turn right

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Ahead of you is the church tower of 3 St. Peter (see p. 34), our next destination situated on one of Zurich’s most peaceful squares (St. Peterhofstatt). Going left, either of the alleys (Weggengasse or Thermengasse) gets you to the second bridge, 4 Rathausbrücke, also known as the vegetable bridge because of the small fruit & veg market held here on Saturdays.

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Just after Schipfe 16 take the climb up to 2 Lindenhof (see p. 34), just turn right and up Fortunagasse and then left into Lindenhof with its tall trees, one of the oldest parts of Zurich. The mediaeval German kings would stop over here and the Romans also occupied the spot in their day and age. Take in the view over the parapet or play with the royals who are always here, in one of the games of outdoor chess. Leaving Lindenhof opposite from where you entered (down Pfalz-Gasse), there’s a copy of the Roman tombstone which mentions Turicum (Zurich) on your right, set in the wall.

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Zurich’s old town snuggles up to both banks of the river ­Limmat, so our old-town stroll does much the same and heads upstream, crossing two bridges and passing a third. We set off at the bridge named after Zurich’s first mayor, 1 Rudolf-Brun Brücke, which is easily reached from Bahnhofstrasse or by walking along the Limmat (down Bahnhofquai) from the main train station. At the bridge’s south-western corner, just by the Swiss handicrafts shop, head down the steps to the metal walkway leading upstream along the Limmat, almost touching the water (Heiri-Steg). Soon you’re on a cobbled street (Schipfe), with some miniature antiques shops and boutiques on the right and the restaurant Schipfe 16, a work project for unemployed and well worth a quick stop, on the left.

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The iconic Napfbrunnen fountain in Niederdorf.

A few steps along you’re at Zurich’s landmark Romanesque - style abbey, the somewhat austere 6 Grossmünster with its double towers and their rather unique, Neo-Gothic spires added in the 18th century. Looking towards the river, the third bridge, Münsterbrücke, appears and the graceful Fraumünster Abbey is visible across the Limmat. Take the steps from the Grossmünster courtyard down to the 7 Wasserkirche and the Helmhaus art gallery by the river and then cross the bridge to 8 Fraumünster (see p. 32) to gaze at the famous stained-glass windows by Chagall. You’ve seen all the really important parts of Zurich’s old town now and can finish off with one of Zurich’s other major attractions - the lake - which is just five minutes’ walk further along the river.

April – May 2018 39


Zurich for kids Are we there yet?! Children have their own idea of how to have a good time and stylish bars or Gothic cathedrals may not exactly do the trick. But no fear, there’s plenty to do with children in Zurich. Find more suggestions on www.zurich.inyourpocket.com.

LEISURE, PARKS & SPORTS Little guests need room to jump and run. Not to mention swim, skate or canoe. The most central playground is next to Lindenhof (p. 34, E-3) and there is a large one next to the Chinese garden. The Gemeinschaftszentren (or GZ), community centres of the city also have good playgrounds. NEW CHOCOLAT FREY VISITOR CENTRE You and your kids can get to know how chocolate is made in a playful way at the visitor centre of Chocolat Frey, Switzerland’s biggest chocolate producer. On the expert trail some of Frey’s chocolate makers will explain and demonstrate the production of those sweet delicacies. And yes, you and your kids will be able to taste some, be they pieces straight from the production line or from the two chocolate fountains. You can watch Röbi the Robot pack chocolates or dress up as a cocoa bean and make funny photos to surprise your friends with. You can also

SHOPS

Franz Carl Weber

FRANZ CARL WEBER This is the toy shop to visit in the city centre conveniently located right next to the main station. See also p. 48.QF‑12, Bahnhofplatz 9, 8Bahnhofplatz/ HB, tel. (+41) 44 225 78 78, www.fcw.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. MOGLI CHINDERLADE This charming little shop sells clothes for children up to ten years, colourful, cheeky and never run-of-themill. Many of the brands like Lana, frugi or Selana are ecologically and socially responsible. They also have hand-tailored pieces from a local seamstress.QG‑12, Schipfe 39, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 211 58 87, www.mogli-chinderlade.ch. Open 10:30 - 18:30, Mon, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Closed Sun. 40 Zurich In Your Pocket

Dressing up as a cocoa bean at Chocolat Frey sure looks like fun. PD

identify different smells in the Aroma Lab or play a giant computer game. Afterwards you can fortify yourself up in the café and, of course, buy all of the Frey delicacies at the shop. This pleasant day trip, which isn’t just for chocolate connoisseurs, is reachable in only 39 minutes from Zurich (take the train to Aarau, then bus Nº1 to the Industrie stop in Buchs).QBresteneggstrasse 4, Buchs, tel. (+41) 62 836 24 25, www.chocolatfrey.ch/visitor-centre. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Closed Mon. Admission 12/10/6Sfr, family ticket including up to 5 kids (6-16 years) 30/18Sfr. Free admission to the café with a playground and shop. GEMEINSCHAFTSZENTREN (COMMUNITY CENTRES) The 17 community centres, called Gemeinschaftszentren, are co-funded by the city. They function as a meeting point for the residents of a district and can be visited by anyone for free. They usually have a playground for kids and a little café-bar, many offer organised activities and some even have some farm animals to watch and stroke. A visit is sure to be fun for you and your kids, not just because you are likely to meet other families there. Here we list some cool and more central ones, see www.gz-zh.ch for all locations. They are usually open 10:00 - 18:00 and some 14:00 - 17:00/18:00 on the weekend: • GZ Schindlergut, Kronenstrasse 12, +41 44 365 24 40 • GZ Wipkingen (on the river), Breitensteinstrasse 19 a, +41 44 276 82 80 • GZ Wollishofen (on the lake), Bachstrasse 70, +41 43 243 11 37 Qtel. (+41) 43 300 60 00, www.gz-zh.ch. KINDERCITY Kindercity is a science city for children aged 3 to 12, much more hands-on than a museum - and when did you last do bungee-jumping in a museum? Different so-called knowledge lanes are dedicated to topics like the human body, renewable energy or modern communication, using sight, sound, smell and action to let children discover, accompanied by an adult. There is a café, open-air play areas, magic trains and a car driving school on the roof zurich.inyourpocket.com


Zurich for kids for under-aged drivers - and much more. From Zurich, take trains S9 or S14 (direction Hinwil/Uster), change at Schwerzenbach to the bus in direction of Volketswil, get off at Volkiland, Chliriet (duration: 22 minutes). QChlirietstrasse 12, Volketswil, tel. (+41) 43 204 30 60, www.kindercity.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Daypass (cinema and knowledge lanes) 31.50Sfr, activities can also be booked separately e.g. knowledge lane 16.50Sfr (22.50 adults).

MUSEUMS & ZOOS ZOOLOGICAL AND PALEONTOLOGICAL MUSEUMS OF THE UNIVERSITY OF ZURICH A giant sloth waits just beyond the entrance here, but luckily it’s only a reconstruction, so you can even stroke it. Animals large and small are displayed stuffed or as skeletons: jaguars, kangaroos, platypuses, giant crabs. You’ll be amazed what exists in the animal kingdom. Insects can be viewed under a microscope, and your children and you can listen to the songs of 280 different birds, and see them as well. The paleontological section features marine dinosaurs from when Switzerland was covered by an ocean, as well as giant ammonite fossils, land dinosaurs like triceratops and skeletons of woolly mammoths. No café, but a rest area where you can eat your own food.QH‑11, Karl Schmid-Strasse 4, 8ETH/Universitätsspital, tel. (+41) 44 634 38 38, www.zm.uzh.ch. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.

ZURICH ZOO Zurich Zoo is located on Zürichberg high above the city. The pride of this zoological garden, which was opened in 1929, is the Masoala Rainforest hall, simulating the ecosystem in the Masoala National Park in Madagascar across some 10,000m2. Animals like lemurs or giant tortoises can move freely around in the hall as you watch and walk by on a path through the forest. Keep your eyes peeled, a chameleon might be sitting on a branch right next to you. But the rainforest is not the only thing worth seeing. Since 1992 Zurich Zoo has gradually been changing the traditionalstyle enclosures into whole ecosystems which better meet the animals’ needs. An Indian dry forest for the lions and many more have already been opened, the latest being the all-new elephant park.QL‑10, Zürichbergstrasse 221, 8Zoo, tel. (+41) 848 96 69 83, www.zoo.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Masoala hall opens all year at 10:00. Admission 26/21(16 - 20 years)/13Sfr, free for kids up to 5 years.

RESTAURANTS KAFI FÜR DICH This café has a children’s corner where your young ones can paint the walls with chalk or play with one of the many toys while you sit and have a coffee or a drink. On weekends the place is so popular with parents you have to weave your way through the many push chairs standing around.QC-11, Stauffacherstrasse 141, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. (+41) 43 317 91 60, www.fuerdich.ch. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 02:00, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.

SWEET CHOCOLATE MOMENTS CHOCOLAT FREY VISITOR CENTRE

The Chocolat Frey visitor centre just 39 minutes from Zurich central station by public transport Free entry to the Café Frey with its chocolate factory playground and to the Boutique Frey Chocolat Frey Visitor Centre Bresteneggstrasse 4 | CH-5033 Buchs bei Aarau Tel. 0041 (0) 62 836 24 25, besucherzentrum@chocolatfrey.ch www.chocolatfrey.ch

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Zurich Nord The part of the city behind the two hills Käferberg and Zürichberg is commonly referred to as Zürich Nord. The districts 7, 11 and 12 used to be independent villages and merged with the city in 1934. Close to the airport they are now home to many international companies, the trade fair, some hotels and more and more restaurants and bars. You definitely don’t have to go to the city centre to have a good night out.

RESTAURANTS NEW JAO PRAYA We think that Jao Praya, which is just around the corner from busy Sternen Oerlikon, is one of the best and most authentic Thai restaurants in Zurich. For lunch it serves popular dishes buffet style, but at dinner time the place is frequented by many Thais who come for the a la carte dishes. Order the succulent hot pot or share a choice of small dishes at the table. Either way, make sure to try one of the papaya salads or the sai krok isan, a fermented pork sausage served with ginger and white cabbage.QH‑1, Tramstrasse 19, 8Sternen Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 43 540 28 08, www.facebook.com/JaoprayaThaiRestaurant. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €€. A

authentic italianità (Italian character). The hosts Rosa and Giovanni fill the otherwise average rooms with their attentive spirit and the kitchen staff matches their efforts with perfectly baked pizza and homemade pasta specialities. Try one of the huge calzones, which are called volcanoes here, and make sure to save room for the homemade tiramisu, but beware the table fireworks if someone celebrates their birthday here!QDübendorfstrasse 223, 8Probstei, tel. (+41) 44 321 91 51, www.la-fonte.ch. Open 10:45 14:00, 17:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 14:30, 17:00 - 23:00, Closed Mon, Tue. €. A MAMMA MIA Enjoy your favourite Italian dishes in the nicely decorated interior or on the deck outside. The menu offers an excellent choice of traditional Italian fare such as pizza and pasta - but it also includes daily changing menus and weekly specials. The place is full most days of the week, the prices are more than fair.QG‑1, Nansenstrasse 9, 8Bahnhof Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 44 311 83 06, www.mammamia.ch. Open 11:00 - 14:30, 17:30 - 23:30, kitchen open until 22:30. €. B­X

NEW LA FONTE On the outskirts of the city in Schwamendingen, you’ll find La Fonte, which offers genuine Italian hospitality and

NIGHTLIFE COOPER’S PUB Located just next to Oerlikon train station, the Cooper’s with its whiskey barrels and dark wooden floor and panels, brings an Irish pub feel to this part of town. They of course have Murphy’s Red and Guinness on tap, all the sports on TV and serve really affordable burgers, fish & chips, pies and salads. Cheers!QH‑1, Schaffhauserstrasse 359, 8Sternen Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 76 261 00 30, www.coopers-pub.ch. Open 15:00 - 24:00, Fri 15:00 - 02:00, Sat 13:30 - 02:00, Sun 13:30 - 22:00. AK GLEIS 9 Located in an old brick building, Track 9 is a bar and bistro close to the Oerlikon train station. We particularly like the separate bar room, but the Swiss lunch deals like bratwurst (veal sausage) with potato salad, pasta, grilled Italian sandwiches and curries are not bad either. The evening menu offers tartar and cordon bleu. And track 9 is one of the few places in town where you can still smoke indoors, in their smoker’s lounge.QG‑1, Affolternstr. 52, 8Bahnhof Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 43 288 94 44, www.gleis9.ch. Open 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A­B­K­X 42 Zurich In Your Pocket

Country inn atmosphere and traditional food at Ziegelhütte.

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ROLLI’S STEAKHOUSE If you are a meat lover, this is the place to go - beef, pork, lamb, they have it all. But don’t forget to book a place in advance. All steaks are served on a hot stone - making you the grill chef yourself. The menu features pasta as well but come on, who needs pasta if there’s meat?QH‑1, Schaffhauserstrasse 352, 8Sternen Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 44 311 28 80, www.rollis-steakhouse.ch. Open 09:00 23:30. Closed Sun, kitchen open 11:00 - 22:00. €€. A­B ZIEGELHÜTTE At the forest’s edge lies the Ziegelhütte, a real country inn within the city limits. On the menu you’ll find - surprise surprise - good, rustic dishes like fleischchäs (swiss style meat loaf ), schnitzel and risotto. You can feel that they like what they do here. Take tram N°7 (direction Stettbach) to Schwamendingerplatz. There is a lovely beer garden too. QHüttenkopfstrasse 70, 8Schwamendingerplatz, tel. (+41) 44 322 40 03, www.wirtschaft-ziegelhuette.ch. Open 11:00 - 22:30, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:30, Sun 11:00 21:00, Closed Mon. In April closed Tue. €€. A­B zurich.inyourpocket.com


Shopping

A walk down famous Bahnhofstrasse is a must for every shopping fan. | Zurich Tourism

Zurich has the reputation of a shopping city, even if not quite that of London or Milano. Especially Bahnhofstrasse is well known around the globe as one of the most exclusive and expensive shopping streets in the world. For Swiss and urban design, Europaallee and the area around Langstrasse are good spots. In the way of shopping malls, Switzerland can’t match other European countries where huge centres are the order of the day. But maybe that’s a good thing. The Sihlcity shopping centre, an easily reachable mall that opened in 2007, is an example of an innovative development - without being a giant. The shopping mall Glatt just outside the city limits is Switzerland’s most popular shopping mall. The malls and best shopping areas of the city are listed here together with other remarkable shops. Remember all shops are closed on Sundays except at the railway stations and some souvenir shops. For more suggestions check www.zurich.inyourpocket.com The main shopping areas are: Bahnhofstrasse (F-11/14) The Bahnhofstrasse leads from the main railway station to the lake and is mostly a pedestrian area almost without traffic - but watch out for the trams! It’s world-famous for its luxury stores: find jewellery, watches and designer boutiques as well as the big department stores Jelmoli, Globus and Manor here. In recent years not to everyone’s pleasure more and more big foreign companies like Apple have opened stores on Bahnhofstrasse displacing some traditional Zurich companies - some say Bahnhofstrasse is losing its facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

atmosphere. Nevertheless a walk down this famous street is a must for every shopping fan. Wander into the side streets as well, where shops are no less luxurious and some more unusual little gems are hidden. Niederdorf (G-11/13) Even if Niederdorf - the part of the old town east of the river Limmat - is better known for dining and nightlife than for shopping, it’s well worth expanding your shopping tour into this quarter. Along the streets Limmatquai and Niederdorfstrasse - both pedestrian areas - you will find smaller shops with up-to-date street wear, fancy shoes and fashion stores. The smaller alleys are also well worth a peek. Old Town (F/G-12/13) The old town between Bahnhofstrasse and the river Limmat is another shopping area not to miss. Try the pedestrian street Rennweg for example with its international clothing brands and boutiques or Storchengasse with its luxury designer stores.

OPENING HOURS Many shops on and around Bahnhofstrasse are open Mon to Fri 09:00 - 19:00 / 20:00. Smaller shops including jewellers often close at 18:30, some are closed on Monday mornings. On Saturdays most shops open from 09:00 - 17:00 (or 18:00, department stores until 20:00). On Sundays all shops have to be closed by law (except in train and petrol stations). April – May 2018 43


Shopping THE GALLERY This is a shopping paradise for women - 20 fashion brands of renown such as Guess, Marc O’Polo, Coccinelle, G-Lab, Zoe Karssen or Trussardi are on offer. The store has sections for casual trendy, modern contemporary, affordable luxury, jeans fashion and accessories rather than being organised by brands. And while fashion is at the core of this store there are some lifestyle products like candles or pillows as well. They have monthly offers for beauty products and even food or beverages, to make your shopping experience that bit more exciting.QF‑12, Löwenstrasse 40, 8Löwenplatz, tel. (+41) 43 343 95 71, www.thegalleryconcept.ch. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

CHOCOLATE & SWEETS TEUSCHER CONFISERIE More than a hundred different flavours of Swiss chocolate, marzipan, biscuits and the famous champagne truffles made according to Adolf Teuscher’s traditional recipe. QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 46, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 211 13 90, www.teuscher.com. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Thu, Fri 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 13:00 - 16:00.

BOOKS & MUSIC ORELL FÜSSLI - THE BOOKSHOP Zurich’s biggest English-language bookshop stocks thousands of fiction and non-fiction books, magazines, audio books and DVDs - and all in English. It’s located on the third floor of the Orell Füssli bookshop just off Bahnhofstrasse.QF‑12, Füsslistrasse 4 (3rd floor), 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 211 04 44, www.orellfussli.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Closed Sun. REC REC The Recommended Records store has all the music you have been looking for – and it’s been going for 30 years now. There is everything from jazz to ambient, electronica, ethno and world music, search service and delivery around the globe - a true jewel, this store.QD‑11, Rotwandstrasse 64, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. (+41) 44 291 46 60, www.recrec-shop.ch. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. ZERO ZERO RARE GROOVE Ten thousands of vinyls from rock to hip hop and new beats, from the 60s to the latest records. Thousands of CDs as well, mostly second hand. Just tell the staff what you are looking for and they will try to help you find it.QD‑11, Bäckerstr. 54, 8Stauffacher, tel. (+41) 44 241 85 20, www.zerozero.ch. Open 12:00 - 18:30, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

Sweet sins in a modern boutique at Vollenweider.

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VOLLENWEIDER CHOCOLATIER CONFISEUR This confectioner’s home town is Winterthur, but his first Zurich shop is an enrichment for the lovers of sweets in town. Macaroons, truffes, small chocolate candies - they have it all. And much more.QH‑14, Theaterstrasse 1, 8Opernhaus, tel. (+41) 43 288 04 04, www.vollenweiderchocolatier.ch. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.

DEPARTMENT STORES GLOBUS The Globus is a classic and stylish department store on Bahnhofstrasse: on six levels you can find everything for your beauty, the latest fashion from brands like Esprit, Marco Polo, Strellson and Dockers, shoes, watches, jewellery, travel bags, lingerie and much more. Take a break in the pleasant restaurant on the top floor or have a drink in the bar on the ground floor.QF‑11, Schweizergasse 11, 8Bahnhofstrasse/HB, tel. (+41) 58 578 11 11, www.globus.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Orell Füssli The Bookshop 3rd Floor, Füsslistrasse 4, 8001 Zürich +41 (0)44 211 04 44 English-orders@orellfuessli.ch

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Shopping JELMOLI They call themselves the house of brands - and that’s what they are indeed: Hugo Boss, DKNY, Joop, Diesel, Tommy Hilfiger, Versace are just some of the fashion brands you can find here. But there’s more than fashion: perfumes, household goods, a huge sports and an electronics department. And not to forget the Jelmoli Food Market grocery store in the basement.QF‑12, Seidengasse 1, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 220 44 11, www.jelmoli.ch. Open 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

FASHION NEW GANT Located on Rennweg, just off Bahnhofstrasse, this is the new flagship store for GANT in Zurich. Founded in 1949 in the US, but now Swiss-owned, GANT stands for casual, yet chic fashion for both men and women. With shirts, colourful pants, casual business suits, blouses, blazers or shoes, this shop features all of the latest GANT collections spread out over more than 300m2 on two floors. Other GANT shops can be found on Europaallee (Lagerstrasse 10) and at the Sihlcity shopping centre (Kalanderplatz 1).QF‑12, Rennweg 30, 8Rennweg, www.gant.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Closed Sun.

Casual yet chic: the fashion at the new Gant store.

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van Rooijen. Expect fashion and accessories beyond the everyday (including Nina’s very own collection), body care products, but also lifestyle and interior design pieces from Zurich and around the world, all presented in an inspiring way.QC‑8, Viaduktstrasse 83, 8Bahnhof Hardbrücke, tel. (+41) 44 273 95 13, www.cabinet-store.ch. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

LOOQ A cool shop for avant-garde luxury fashion for men and women: special patterns and unusual materials by brands like Y’s by Yohji Yamamoto, Rundholz, Annette Görtz, Lilith and many more.QG‑13, Kirchgasse 3, 8Helmhaus, tel. CABINET (+41) 43 233 03 30, www.looq.ch. Open 10:00 - 19:00, This exceptional concept store is curated by designer Nina08:58:51 Gant_AD_FINAL_124x90_PROD.pdf 1 13.03.2018 van Rooijen and her husband, fashion journalist Jeroen Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

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Shopping AIRSIDE CENTER AT ZURICH AIRPORT Zurich airport’s passenger area is a shopping centre too! And quite a large one, in fact: more than 60 shops are located in the Airside Center which is accessible only to passengers. Here you can find literally anything you might be looking for. Be it Swiss watches, fashion or souvenirs, it’s all there, Swiss as well as international brands of course. In the Zürich Duty Free Stores you can buy a varied range of perfumes and cosmetics, tobacco products, spirits, wines and chocolate creations from Lindt, Cailler or Toblerone. The many restaurants and bars serving Swiss and international specialties make the Airside Center complete. So if you arrive at the airport early - don’t worry. You can use the time to hunt around for that last gift or souvenir - or have a fine meal before you take off!QZurich Airport, www.flughafen-zuerich.ch/shopping. Open 06:00 22:00. Accessible only to passengers. MAISON GASSMANN Gassmann is an exquisite fashion house for women in the old town. They moved to a new location in summer 2016 and now have a modern spacious store. Find brands like Akris, Etro, Manoush and many more - and excellent advice and service. They also have a kid’s section.QF‑13, Weinplatz 3, 8Paradeplatz / Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 211 08 37, www.maisongassmann.ch. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. PKZ WOMEN The moving visuals by Julian Opie on the 50 sqm LED screen in the store window make sure you can’t miss the PKZ Women flagship store. On four storeys and sorted by affinities, women can find almost anything they might be looking for: brands like Polo Ralph Lauren, Paul & Joe, See by Chloé, Armani, Diesel and many more, as well as shop in shops by Tommy Hilfiger and Dorothee Schumacher. A heaven for fashionistas on Bahnhofstrasse.QF‑11, Bahnhofstrasse 88, 8Bahnhofstrasse / HB, tel. (+41) 44 225 11 11, www.pkz.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

SCOTCH & SODA Since 2012 this label from the Netherlands has had a flagship store in Zurich. On more than 250sqm they display their collections for men and women (Maison Scotch). All quite casual but with a certain elegance and a little retro in style - but definitely very hip these days.QH‑14, Rämistrasse 6, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) 43 268 49 79, www.scotch-soda.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.

SHOPPING MALLS IM VIADUKT More than 30 shops and a market hall for groceries nestled under the arches of a railway viaduct built in the 19th century. Not a classic shopping mall but a street with one shop after another. The emphasis is on small and trendy fashion labels, studios and concept stores. In the market hall, more than 30 vendors offer their goods, like fresh food and cured meats.QD‑8, Limmatstrasse 259, 8Dammweg, www.im-viadukt.ch. Closed Sun.

The Viadukt shopping centre is nestled under railway arches. Ralp Hut

SIHLCITY A true shopper‘s paradise, opened in 2007 on the grounds of an industrial-age paper mill. Modern architecture carefully blends with the factory buildings which house more than 80 shops from fashion to electronics, restaurants, a hotel, a spa and a multiplex cinema. Easily accessible from the city centre by tram N° 5, N°13 & 17 in direction Albisgütli/ Laubegg.QC‑16, Kalanderplatz 1, 8Sihlcity Nord, tel. (+41) 44 204 99 99, www.sihlcity.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

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Shopping LUXURY FASHION Although there are dozens of reasons to visit Zurich, one of the best is a chance to do some luxury shopping. Whether you’re a dedicated fashionista or just enjoy browsing, Zurich has all of the world’s most sought-after brands. Many of the best labels can be found on and around Bahnhofstrasse and Storchengasse, the Swiss equivalent of New York’s Fifth Avenue. NEW PINKO PINKO is an Italian fashion brand founded in the early 1980s. With its daring, feminine an cheeky collections it reaches out to to strong personalities regardless of age. Its all new Zurich store will be opened  by the end of April on Strehlgasse  9, right in the shopping paradise for fashionistas around Storchengasse.QG‑13, Strehlgasse 9, www.pinko.com.

TROIS POMMES THE STORE WOMEN Trois Pommes is one of the most luxurious boutiques in Zurich and only the finest fashion, shoes and accessories by the most exquisite brands are sold here. QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 18, tel. (+41) 44 211 09 43, www.troispommes.ch. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 18:00. Closed Sun.

LORO PIANA Loro Piana designs luxurious ready-to-wear fashion for men and women with its very own fine fabrics which radiate an air of timeless Italian elegance.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 26, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 43 497 23 00, www.loropiana.com. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

VALENTINO One of the world’s most sought-after fashion labels offers the latest women’s collections including shoes, purses and fashionable eyewear at this boutique.QG‑13, Storchengasse 12, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 216 80 20, www.valentino.com. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Closed Sun.

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Shopping Time to take up sport again

TRANSA This is the place for quality outdoor clothing and equipment - anything from rucksacks to hiking, biking and climbing hardware, advice by experts included. Features a 7-metre high climbing wall to really test your equipment.QE‑11, Lagerstrasse 4, tel. (+41) 848 084 81, www.transa.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 18:00. Closed Sun.

PERFUMES & BEAUTY NEW OSSWALD Osswald is the specialist for perfumes and beauty products for facial care and spa treatments on Bahnhofstrasse. This  family-run business was founded in 1921 and still OUTDOOR CLOTHING offers  excellent consulting services and beauty aids. OCH_60x45_Anz_ZH_Pocket_e.indd 1 05.07.16 15:33 & SPORTS Facial care products include Swiss brands like La Prairie, MAMMUT Cell Cosmet and Valmont, among many others, and The Swiss producer of trekking and mountaineering the  fragrances available are nearly endless including equipment Mammut has a huge flagship store in Zurich. On many niche brands from around the globe like Profumum several stories you can browse through shoes, backpacks, Roma, Roja  and  Thameen. In their facial spa, they also sleeping bags, climbing gear and fashionable clothing offer medical and cosmetic facial treatments, but you’ll for outdoors sports and outdoor use in general.QF‑11, also find  make-up, hair products, home fragrances Löwenstrasse 60, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 43 233 00 and even accessories  for your bathroom here.QF‑13, 66, www.mammut.ch. Open 09:30 - 19:00, Mon 12:00 - Bahnhofstrasse 17, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 211 19:00, Thu 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. 20 30, www.osswald.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Closed Sun. Bahnhofstrasse 56 and Limmatquai 78 in Zurich. www.ochsport.ch

Full contents online: zurich.inyourpocket.com OCH SPORT At Och Sport you’ll find just about everything for any kind of sports on three storeys: tennis, badminton, trekking, running, skiing, swimming and much more - they have it all. On top of this huge choice, there is also fashion and outerwear - but sports definitely comes first here. Sister shop at Limmatquai 78.QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 56, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 215 21 21, www.ochsport.ch. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Thu 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Everything for sports on three stories: Och Sport.

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TOY STORES

SHOES & ACCESSORIES

FRANZ CARL WEBER This is the toy shop to visit in the city centre conveniently located right next to the main station. There’s virtually anything you might desire on two huge floors from first toys for newborns to tech toys for grown-ups, not to mention books and a small candy shop – the aptly-named Lollipop. Your kids will absolutely love the slide that connects the first level with the ground floor. QF‑12, Bahnhofplatz 9, 8Bahnhofplatz/HB, tel. (+41) 44 225 78 78, www.fcw.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.

BENCI BROTHERS The former co-owner and designer of Navyboot Flaviano Bencivenga is back with a new shoe label - the Benci Brothers. The Benci Brother’s pride are welted shoes for men, designed by them and manufactured by hand in Italy in up to 150 production steps. They have all kinds of other high quality shoes, bags and accessories for men and women too.QF‑12, Sihlstrasse 33, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 43 497 25 60, www.bencibrothers.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

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Shopping LEDER LOCHER No doubt, this is the shop in Zurich for leather bags (travel and business), suitcases and accessories like belts - all for men and women. There are dozens of brands available. And first-class advice is included.QG‑13, Münsterhof 18/19, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 211 18 64, www.leder-locher.ch. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Thu 09:00 20:00, Sat 09:30 - 18:00, Closed Sun.

Toy Store

STEFI TALMAN Swiss designer Stefi Talman built her reputation in the 1980ies with a half boot called Zip featuring a zipper crossing the instep at an angle. Her collections of shoes and bags for women are still remarkable and are on offer in her own boutique in the upper part of the old town.QG‑13, Oberdorfstrasse 13, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) 44 252 81 10, www.stefitalman.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Mon 12:00 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

SWISS DESIGN BOUTIQUE CARAN D’ACHE Caran d’ Ache is the renowned Swiss producer of writing instruments. In their Zurich boutique you will find their entire collection - everything from pens, pencils, markers and fountain pens to paints and paint brushes. Their boxes of colour pencils are a classic present for children, but you can also just treat yourself to one of the elegant pens.QE‑12, Löwenstrasse 19, 8Löwenplatz, tel. (+41) 44 273 90 00, www.carandache.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Mon 10:30 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

Welcome to the most famous paradise of toys for children, since 1881. Bahnhofplatz 9 • 8001 Zürich 044 225 78 78 • fcw.ch

DIE MACHEREI A local collective of young designers presents its bags, fashion and furniture in this small shop at the Langstrasse end of the Europaallee. Unlike similar endeavours, the designers themselves actually sell their products here. You can find Sputnik Zurich’s puristic and functional reflecting bags, baiushki’s plain brass jewellery, Eszett chairs or the fashion label MRK, which uses only leftover materials from the backlogs of sustainable Swiss companies. A chat with the designers is included here, so it’s a perfect glimpse into the local design scene.QD‑10, Lagerstrasse 104, 8Sihlpost/HB, tel. (+41) 44 548 72 50, www.diemacherei.ch. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 18:00, Closed Sun. ERFOLG This Swiss clothes label has been producing shirts and knitted garments since 1993. Expect colourful, mostly non-synthetic clothing, some with reduced, stylish designs, all actually made in Switzerland. Erfolg means success, and that’s what the label has become in recent years. They have a second shop in the shopping street Im Viadukt.QE‑12, Löwenstrasse 2, 8Sihlstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 210 40 70, www.erfolg-label.ch. Open 11:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

T h e m o s t lu x u r io u s f ra g ra n c e s and skincare in the wor ld S I N C E 1921

BAHNHOFSTRASSE 17 | 8001 ZÜRICH | TEL.044 211 2030 | OSSWALD.CH

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Shopping in the covered courtyard of the Credit Suisse building at Paradeplatz.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 25, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 222 20 00, www.fabricfrontline.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

SWISS FOOD

Luxury Bedding

Kappelergasse 11 8001 Zürich +41 44 211 57 47

GLOBUS DELICATESSA In the basement of the Globus department store you’ll find almost any kind of food imaginable, be it organic Swiss cheese, meat specialities from across the country or perfectly ripe exotic fruit from around the world. It’s not only Swiss produce, but we are almost certain you will find every Swiss delicacy you might be looking for. Not a cheap shop, but with an impressive diversity.QF‑11, Schweizergasse 11, 8Bahnhofstrasse, tel. (+41) 58 578 11 11, www.globus.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. TRITT-KÄSE Dozens of different cheeses from all corners of Switzerland. Don’t be shy, ask for a taster! The sales staff is usually happy to cut some for you or to recommend their favourites. QD‑8, Limmatstrasse 231 (Im Viadukt), 8Dammweg, tel. (+41) 43 366 87 88, www.tritt.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

WWW.FISCHBACHER.COM

THEMA SELECTION Zurich designer Sissi Zoebeli is known for visionary but classic fashion for women. In her lovely oldtown shop she assembles her own latest collection as well as selected pieces by other Zurich designers together with some international classics.QG‑12, Spiegelgasse 16, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 261 78 42, www.themaselection.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Mon 12:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

SWISS FABRICS

Quality Swiss fabrics on sale at Christian Fischbacher.

BOUTIQUE CHRISTIAN FISCHBACHER For nearly 200 years this family-owned Swiss company has produced fine fabrics for luxurious interiors. Drop by its Zurich boutique to find everything from finest bed linen, duvets, pillows and cushions to carpets, accessories and bath textiles. All of the standard sizes are available here, but the staff can also take custom orders. They’ll also be happy to help you find the perfect interior fabrics to match your personality and your home.QF‑13, Kappelergasse 11, 8Börsenstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 211 57 47, www.fischbacher.com. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 16:00. Closed Sun.

WELSCHLAND At this small delicatessen you can find all the specialities of the Romandie, the French speaking western part of Switzerland, where people are said to be more relaxed than around Zurich. Be it sausages (for example saucisses aux choux with cabbage) many cheeses, wines or absinth - it’s all there.QC‑12, Zweierstrasse 56, 8Bahnhof Wiedikon, tel. (+41) 43 243 98 50, www.welschland.com. Open 07:00 - 21:00, closed Sun.

FABRIC FRONTLINE Exquisite foulards, scarfs, ties and coats all made of coloured, patterned silk, is what the Swiss family business Fabric Frontline specialises in. You can find it all in their store 50 Zurich In Your Pocket

PD

SOUVENIRS DOLMETSCH They offer classic Swiss souvenirs and gifts such as the Swiss army knives from Victorinox, many watch brands as well as a large choice of Swiss textiles like T-Shirts and outdoor fashion. Free engraving service on Victorinox zurich.inyourpocket.com


Shopping TEDDY’S SOUVENIR-SHOP At Teddy’s they have a wide range of souvenirs and gifts. Whether it’s watches, cowbells, hats, music boxes, soft toys, pocket knives or clothes you’re after: you’ll find it all at their shop on Limmatquai, just next to the church Grossmünster. And it’s not just souvenirs of Zurich, like beer glasses with the city’s coat of arms, but from all over Switzerland. For example the sännechutte, a traditional shirt worn by alpine herdsmen since days of yore. And yes, this souvenir shop is open even on Sundays.QG‑13, Limmatquai 34, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 261 22 89, www.teddyssouvenirshop.ch. Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 17:00, Nov - March Sun 11:00 - 17:00. knives for customers directly in the shop. Sister shop Swiss Shop 1291 at ShopVille underground at the main railway station.QG‑11, Limmatquai 126, 8Central, tel. (+41) 44 251 55 44, www.dolmetsch.ch. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00, in summer Fri & Sat 09:00 - 22:00. MENG CUTLERY Meng Cutlery just off Bahnhofstrasse offers classic Swiss souvenirs such as army knives by the famous brand Victorinox. Also in stock: other knives, scissors, watches and more ideas for gifts to take home. Sister shop at Poststrasse 4 (E-4).QF‑12, Rennweg 31, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 211 18 48, www.mengcutlery.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. MESSER-SCHARF Pocket knives are part of Swiss cultural heritage, and messer-scharf takes great pride in this heritage. You’ll find an extensive range of knives and other products by Victorinox, such as kitchen implements, watches or rucksacks. messer-scharf also stock high-end kitchen knives by Chroma.QG‑13, Oberdorfstrasse 25, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 251 01 20, www.messer-scharf.ch. Open 09:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 18:00. Closed Sun. Swiss Shop 1291 Entrance Bahnhofstrasse 8001 Zürich, Shop Ville tel. +41 44 211 61 32 www.swiss-shop-1291.ch

SCHWEIZER HEIMATWERK Swiss handcrafted souvenirs of high quality: fashion accessories, toys, bells, books and fondue sets all with lots of Swiss crosses, red and white colours, cows and edelweiss. Sister shop at Bahnhofstrasse 2.QG‑12, Uraniastrasse 1, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. (+41) 44 222 19 55, www.heimatwerk.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 18:00. Closed Sun. VICTORINOX STORE This is the Zurich flagship store by Victorinox, the Swiss family business of world renown. They may be best known for their Swiss army knives, but they also produce other high-quality items like cutlery, watches, travel gear and fashion - which is all in stock at this store of course. At the Knife Assembly Station you can even make your own unique Swiss army knife by choosing size, functions and colours. A special souvenir or gift!QF‑12, Rennweg 58, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 229 60 70, www.victorinox.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:30 - 18:30. Closed Sun. ZÜRICHFOTO.CH Photographer Rolf Müllestein sells souvenirs of Zurich beyond army knives and cow bells: authentic black and white pictures of the city of Zurich, the old town, the lake. QG‑13, Kirchgasse 32, 8Kunsthaus, tel. (+41) 44 251 21 45, www.zuerichfoto.ch. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. funny Swiss souvenirs and Swiss textiles. We have largest range of Victorinox famous Swiss knives and engrave all knives for free in our shops within few minutes. We also sell most famous Swiss made watches.

Limmatquai 126, 8001 Zürich tel. +41 44 251 55 44 www.swiss-shop-1291.ch

Auswahl an Souvenirs und Schweizer T-Shirts, sowie Victorinox Taschenmesser und Swiss Made Uhren. Wir gravieren bei uns gekaufte Messer kostenlos vor Ihren Augen.

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Watches & Jewellery Switzerland is the country of watches - yet another cliché? Actually, it couldn’t be more true. More than 95% of all watches with a value of over 1000Sfr are made in Switzerland! The Swiss watch industry started off in Geneva around 1600, founded by Huguenots who had fled France. Zurich however is a prime shopping spot for watches today. Whether on busy Bahnhofstrasse or in a quieter corner, you will find a huge selection of brands and models here. The next couple of pages will guide you!

TAX FREE SHOPPING As a foreign resident you are entitled to a refund when making purchases for more than 300Sfr (including VAT), provided the goods leave the country within 30 days. You will get back the VAT, which in Switzerland is only 7.7% - minus a handling fee. It’s as easy as this: watch out for the Global Blue - Tax Free sign. When paying, ask for a tax refund form. When leaving Switzerland, present your purchases, receipts and passport to Swiss customs officials. They will stamp your tax refund form. To claim an immediate refund, present your stamped tax refund form at a Global Blue refund point (e.g. at Zurich Airport or all around Europe). For more infos see www​.global-blue​.com.

AIRBIJOUX A fine selection of watches at the lake end of Bahnhofstrasse: e.g. Baume & Mercier, Charriol and Eterna. QF‑14, Bahnhofstrasse 1, 8Börsenstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 212 21 71, www.airbijoux.com. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. CHRIST WATCHES & JEWELRY With more than 70 shops, CHRIST is the biggest jeweler in Switzerland. Find top watch brands like Rado, Tag Heuer, Certina, Frederique Constant and their very own CHRIST Swiss Made as well as many fashion jewels. There are sister shops at the department stores St. Annahof (Bahnhofstrasse 57, F-12), Jelmoli (Seidengasse 1, F-12) and the shopping centre Sihlcity (Kalanderplatz 1, C-16). QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 78, 8Bahnhofstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 212 14 47, www.christ-swiss.ch. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

BEYER WATCHES & JEWELLERY For more than 250 years Beyer has been selling and repairing watches. The family business is now managed by the eighth generation. Beyer specializes in selling some of the world’s most sought-after brands, such as Patek Philippe, Rolex, Breguet, Hublot, IWC, Chopard and Cartier, as well as its own Beyer brand.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 31, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 43 344 63 63, www.beyer-ch.com. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Sat 09:30 - 16:00. Closed Sun. FATA MORGANA Fata Morgana specialises in fairly produced and traded jewellery as well as all kinds of accessories and even lamps and interior design items. It stocks for example imaginative collections by Auryn Jewels and silver jewellery for men by D’Oz Hommes, not to mention handmade Indonesian pieces by E’Kollektion. All of it is presented in a unique way in this lovely shop on Limmatquai. QLimmatquai 36, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 262 18 06, www.fata-morgana.ch. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 18:00. Closed Sun. GELLNER & FRIENDS This is jewellery manufacturer Gellner’s flagship store in Switzerland and here it’s all about cultured pearls. The collection includes elegant earrings, bracelets, necklaces and daring rings, all designed and handmade at the factory. Apart from Gellner’s very own pieces, the shop also sells jewellery by Danish designer Ole Lynggaard, Dutch brand Minitials and renowned watches by Nomos Glashütte. QF‑12, Strehlgasse 27, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 552 24 03, www.gellnerandfriends.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

Strehlgasse 27 | 8001 Zürich | gellnerandfriends.ch

IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN BOUTIQUE Swiss luxury watch manufacturer IWC Schaffhausen has its very own Zurich boutique. Find their iconic automatic watches, be it the Pilot’s series or the Aquatimer watch family and exclusive models only available in its flagship

52 Zurich In Your Pocket AZ_Gellner_NOMOS_AtWork_Zuerichinyourpocket_60x90.indd 19.02.18 1 11:38

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Watches & Jewellery stores. All presented in a hyper designed shop which includes a relaxing lounge area.QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 61, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 211 00 55, www.iwc.com. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. LES AMBASSADEURS Find a large selection of Swiss watches and jewellery at Les Ambassadeurs store. They have long established partnerships with leading brands such as Audemars Piguet, Blancpain, Breguet, Breitling, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Jaquet Droz, Longines, Vacheron Constantin, Omega as well as Pasquale Bruni and Pomellato. Their sales staff provide expert advice in many languages.QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 64, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 227 17 17, www.lesambassadeurs.ch. Open 09:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun. MEISTER Upmarket watches and in-house repair service. Brands include Vacheron Constantin, Hublot, Ulysse Nardin, Blancpain and TAG Heuer. Jewellery store and silverware. QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 33, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 211 19 33, www.meister-zurich.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

Watches, jewellery and sleek ambience at Christ.

www.christ-swiss.ch

WELCOME TO SWITZERLAND’S FIRST DESTINATION FOR WATCHES AND JEWELRY with a selection of more than 50 exclusive brands.

PD

PARTIME This Swiss designer watch simultaneously shows the time of day and how much of the day is left. The blue area within a circle represents the amount of time still remaining in the day, while a white area gradually eats into the blue. Find it at Teddy’s Souvenir Shop and the retailers indicated on the next page, order it in the webshop, or ask for an express delivery to your hotel.QG‑13, Teddy’s Souvenir Shop, Limmatquai 34, tel. (+41) 43 422 00 11, www. partimewatch.com. Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.

I N T E R L A K E N | LU C E R N E | ZU R I C H | G E N E VA L AU S A N N E | M O N T R EU X | LU GA N O

TISSOT BOUTIQUE The traditional Swiss watchmaker Tissot has its very own boutique on Zurich’s Bahnhofstrasse. Find all its latest watches for men and women.QF‑11, Bahnhofstrasse 94, 8Bahnhofstrasse/HB, tel. (+41) 44 221 28 66, www.tissot.ch. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

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A. Lange & Söhne Audemars Piguet Balmain Baume & Mercier Bell & Ross Beyer Blancpain Breguet Breitling Bulgari Cartier Certina Charriol Chopard Corum De Grisogono Ebel Eterna Franck Muller Girard Perregaux Hublot IWC Schaffhausen Jaquet Droz Jaeger-LeCoultre Jowissa Longines Louis Erard Maurice Lacroix Mido Mondaine Movado Nomos Glashütte Omega Oris Parmigiani Fleurier Patek Philippe Piaget Quinting Rado Raymond Weil Rolex Swatch Swiss Military TAG Heuer Tiffany Tissot Ulysse Nardin Urwerk Victorinox Swiss Army Vulcain Wenger Zenith Zurich Partime

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Central Jewellery, Limmatquai 140

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Les Ambassadeurs, Bahnhofstrasse 64

Meister Uhren, Bahnhofstrasse 33

Meng Cutlery, Poststrasse 4

Meng Cutlery, Rennweg 31

messer-scharf, Oberdorfstrasse 25

Omega Boutique, Bahnhofstrasse 48

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Patek Philippe Boutique, Bahnhofstr. 31

Rolex Boutique, Bahnhofstrasse 17

Swatch Store, Bahnhofstrasse 52

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Victorinox Flagship Store, Rennweg 58

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Leisure FUN & GAMES LASER ARENA Yay! Zurich finally has laser tag! Hide behind obstacles on different floors and tag as many of your opponents with your laser gun as possible to score points. But watch out, or you might get tagged yourself. That said, it’s worth mentioning that unlike paintball, this is a completely harmless game, so no protective gear is required. All you need is a laser gun and a sensor on your chest to play. The Laser Arena is a big space that can accommodate up to 24 players and you can play with two big teams or split up into smaller groups. A game lasts 12 minutes and the person or team with the highest score wins. Make a reservation on its website or just drop by to have some great laser fun with friends, family or colleagues. They also run a paintball arena a 40-minutes drive from Zurich (www.paintball-arena.ch). QD‑15, Brandschenkestrasse 178, 8Waffenplatzstrasse, tel. (+41) 848 31 23 12, www.laser-arena.ch. Open Wed 14:00 - 22:00, Thu 18:00 - 22:00, Fri 18:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue. One 12-minute game costs 15Sfr for adults and 12Sfr for children under 16 years. Book more than two games and get a discount. FOXTRAIL - SCAVENGER HUNT Foxtrail has developed its own portfolio of scavenger hunts in locations across Switzerland. In Zurich, it offers seven itineraries in English, the latest one indoors at the main train station, which might be preferable when it’s wet outside. Working as a team (2 - 7 people), Zurich becomes your playground. To stay on the trail of the fox, you need to break codes and find hidden messages together. While following the clues you pass some of the city’s highlights, but also some less explored corners of town. In short, it’s a novel way to discover a Swiss town or region! You can book your starting time on its website and with the accompanying documents you can do the trail at your own pace. If you get stuck, a helpline is available to help you advance.Qtel. (+41) 41 329 80 00, www.foxtrail.ch.

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There are plenty of things to do in and around Zurich. Show your friends and colleagues who’s boss with a competitive game of laser tag or show off your smarts on a scavenger hunt. If, on the other hand, you just want to relax, then visit a thermal bath, a hammam or a sauna.

A hammam is the ideal way to recharge your batteries, especially at Stadtbad. PD

THERMAL BATHS & HAMMAMS STADTBAD HAMMAM & SPA Turkish-style steam baths, hammams, have become very popular in recent years. This one in the cellars of the Volkshaus boasts some arty concrete architecture. But you come here to relax, right? In keeping with oriental traditions there is a hot stone in the centre of the open space to relax on.QD‑11, Stauffacherstr. 60, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. (+41) 44 241 04 27, www.stadtbadzuerich.ch. Open 11:00 -23:00, Sun 11:00 -22:00, Wed women only. With sunny weather open 15:00 - 23:00, May - Sept 17:00 22:00, Wed, Fri & Sat 15:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. Admission 48Sfr, sauna 32Sfr. THERMALBAD & SPA ZÜRICH Zurich’s only thermal bath is located in the buildings that once were home to the brewery Hürlimann in Zurich Enge using the spring water that was once sold for drinking as Aqui. There are different pools, some of them in the old stone cellars as well as an outdoor area on the rooftop open all year, with a view over the city and towards the Alps.QC‑15, Brandschenkestrasse 150, 8Waffenplatzstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 205 96 50, www.thermalbad-zuerich.ch. Open 09:00 - 22:00. Admission 36/18Sfr, kids up to 6 years free.

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OBERER ZÜRICHSEE | ZÜRICH CITY | LUZERN | BASEL | BERN 56 Zurich In Your Pocket

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Day trips If you have some more time on your hands you might want to explore a bit further afield and leave Zurich for a day. With the warm weather here, it’s time to discover Switzerland’s stunning landscapes. Many scenic destinations also offer cultural sites. We’ve put together a selection of our favourites. And there are plenty of other options to consider such as museums, monasteries and thermal baths. For more recommendations check www.zurich.inyourpocket.com.

CULTURE & HERITAGE ENEA TREE MUSEUM (BAUMMUSEUM) The world’s first and only tree museum is located on Lake Zurich, close to Rapperswil-Jona. A selection of trees from the collection of Swiss landscape architect and tree collector Enzo Enea are on display at the 75,000sqm park. By creating a series of open spaces the architect has shown how trees can be used as space creating objects while using their aesthetics and paying respect to the absolutely vital function they serve. Furthermore, the Enea tree collection uses only trees from the Central European climate zone. With this museum Enea thoroughly combined his vision of merging architecture, landscapes, botany, art and design. The museum boasts over 50 trees from more than 25 species, some of which are over 100 years old, and a further 100 trees and plants are located in the park surrounding the tree museum. Since 2013, sculptures by contemporary artists have been on display in the park, creating a unique choreography of art work and trees. A beautiful and definitely rather special experience.QBuechstrasse 12, Jona, tel. (+41) 55 225 55 55, www.enea.ch/ baummuseum. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Admission 15/12Sfr. To get there from Zurich take a train to Rapperswil, than bus 622 to Buechstrasse West or St. Dionys (48 minutes all in all).

OUTDOOR DESTINATIONS RHEINFALL - EUROPE’S TALLEST WATERFALL A trip to the Rheinfall makes for a great day out. Europe’s tallest waterfall is just a 50-minute train ride from Zurich. Close to the city of Schaffhausen, the water of the River Rhine plunges down an impressive 23 metres at a width of more than 150 metres. Two castles or schlösser watch over the waterfall: Schloss Laufen overlooks the top of the falls, Schlössli Wörth is situated at the bottom. By train it’s easiest to approach the falls from Neuhausen Rheinfall (take the S9 train directly from Zurich main train station). After a short walk you’ll arrive at the bottom of the falls. From here, you can take a boat over to the visitor centre (3/2Sfr) or to the rock in the middle of the waterfall (every 10 minutes from 10:00 - 18:00 for 20/15Sfr; in April and October 11:00 - 17:00). Stairs lead up the rock where you’re afforded a fantastic view of the falls, spray included. The visitor centre features an exhibition about the history of the Rheinfall (5/3Sfr including access to the viewing platform).QNeuhausen am Rheinfall, www.rheinfall.ch. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

MOUNTAIN TOURS BEST OF SWITZERLAND TOURS Day trips organised by tour operators are an easy way to explore Switzerland and its gorgeous mountains. Forget the hassle with timetables, itineraries and the like. Just snuggle into your bus seat and let them guide you through the day. Best of Switzerland tours for example offers daily trips from Zurich to Pilatus, Rigi, Titlis and Jungfraujoch. For instance you can take the rotating gondola up to Titlis (more than 3000 metres asl), where an encounter with ice, snow and a glacier await you. They also have a city tour to Luzern. Just check their website for available tours and book up to a day before - online or by phone. The tour busses leave from the Zurich Bus terminal Sihlquai, just next to the Hauptbahnhof (main train station, F-10). Qwww.switzerland-tours.ch, tel. (+41) 44 710 50 50. RIGI - MOUNTAIN WITH A VIEW Mount Rigi (from regina, Latin for queen) is famous for spectacular views of the Alps and the easy access. The majestic mountain lies between Lake Lucerne, Lake Zug and Lake Lauerz. Don’t forget to bring a jacket as it can be chilly at 1,800 metres above sea level. There are two cogwheel railways going up the Rigi from two different sides, one starting in Arth-Goldau, the other one in Vitznau. The cogwheel railway leaving from Vitznau is Europe’s first mountain railway. At the top there are several restaurants, around 120 kilometres of hiking trails and covered picnic and barbecue spots. Hikers have the option of walking down just part of the way, as the train has several stops where you can jump back on. The fastest way from Zurich is to take a train to Arth-Goldau (duration 40 minutes) from where the cogwheel train takes you to the top in another 40 minutes.QRigi Bahnen AG, Vitznau, tel. (+41) 41 399 87 87, www.rigi.ch. From Vitznau roughly from 09:00 - 22:00. From Weggis daily from 08:00 - 19:00. From Arth-Goldau from 08:00 - 18:00. Check website for exact timetables. Return ticket to Rigi (so called daypass) 72/36Sfr.

Far above Lake Lucerne, Mount Rigi is like heaven on earth.

PD

April – May 2018 57


Queer Zurich Zurich is undoubtedly Switzerland’s gay and lesbian capital and is in general quite queer-friendly. What better proof than the reelection of lesbian Corinne Mauch as mayor in 2018 (in charge since 2009)? Zurich’s vibrant queer scene was one of the driving forces in creating today’s club culture. Of course, some of the queer venues are cool places to hang out even if you’re hetero. Zurich’s queer calendar has several major events, all in spring or summer. For over ten years a Christopher Street Day has been held in June. Called Zurich Pride Festival (June 15 & 16, 2018, (www.zurichpridefestival.ch) today, this is a huge event with parties, open-air bars and a colourful march through the city. In spring the Pink Apple film festival (May 5 - 10, 2018, www.pinkapple.ch) shows gay and lesbian films from all over the world and awards a prize to a young director. But the queer scene is also very lively, big events aside. Whether you’re looking for a gayfriendly bar to relax in, gay and lesbian clubbing or venues of a more raunchy kind, you’ll find it in Zurich. Check out the websites or ask in some of the bars too.

PETRA’S TIP TOP BAR Chanson - or what is called schlager in German - is at the top of the menu here. But there’s enough Abba, Boney M and what have you as well. Host Peter is well known - especially for his drag performances. A cosy place for some nostalgic merrymaking.QH‑12, Seilergraben 13, 8Neumarkt, tel. (+41) 44 251 78 20, www.tip-top-bar.ch. Open 18:30 - late. Closed Mon, Sun. A PREDIGERHOF The Predigerhof in the centre of the Niederdorf area is a sure bet, open 365 days a year until two in the morning. Order one of their sandwiches and a beer - or step it up a little and choose one of their champagnes. Maybe Lotti, the famed landlady, will join you. You can ask the Thai and Swiss staff for tips for gay events - but maybe you’ll just want to stay here, if they’re showing a game of soccer or the Eurovision song contest.QG‑12, Mühlegasse 15, 8Rudolf-Brun Brücke, tel. (+41) 44 251 29 85, www.predigerhof.ch. Open 14:00 - 02:00. A

CLUBS HEAVEN The Heaven is a cosy queer club featuring music from charts and house to more underground tastes like deep house.QG‑12, Spitalgasse 5, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, www.heavenclub.ch. Open Fri & Sat 23:00 - 06:00.A

The Zurich Pride festival is an extravaganza.

Zurich Tourism

BARS CRANBERRY Campari is a major theme in this minimalist bar - a play on the most famous Swiss German pop song Campari Soda? You can certainly order campari soda, but the team will make you most any other cocktail - and well. The Cranberry is a buzzing bar for gays, lesbians and anybody gay-friendly. There are occasional theme parties. Check out the website for some useful queer links.QG‑12, Metzgergasse 3, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 261 27 72, www.cranberry.ch. Open 17:00 - late. A DANIEL H. Daniel H. is a low-key star in Zurich’s gay bar scene. With no exuberant glamour and just the occasional party, Daniel H. is very relaxed and heterofriendly. The finger food on offer is also quite a treat. Good place to pick up flyers on gay parties and events in Zurich, they also sell tickets for some events.QD‑11, Müllerstrasse 51, 8Stauffacher, tel. (+41) 44 241 41 78, www.danielh.ch. Open 17:00 24:00, Fri 17:00 - 02:00, Sat 19:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Sun. A­K 58 Zurich In Your Pocket

RAGE Rage is a factory of a cruising club with all the works darkrooms, slings, tubs and, of course, bars. Sector C is fetish pure, with a strict dresscode and changing themes. Only men are admitted. Get there by train to Schlieren station or with bus 31 to the stop Wagonsfabrik. Nightbuses on the weekend.QWagistrasse 13, Schlieren, www.rage.ch. Thu 19:00 - 01:00, Fri 22:00 - 04:00, Sat 22:00 - 05:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. 8-20Sfr. A­X

RESOURCES GAYMEBOYS.COM ONLINE MAGAZINE This is a Zurich-centred gay online community with English-language content. There’s a chat area, personals and a listing of up-coming events and info on gay venues. It’s free, for some services you have to register.Qwww.gaymeboys.com. LGBT+ HELPLINE LGBT+ Helpline offers telephone counselling and operates as a registration office for homophobic violence. Counselling for non-emergency matters is available Mon - Thu 19:00 - 21:00. In case of homophobic violence you can call 24hrs to report the incident, or report the incident online. Counselling is in German but many counsellors speak at least some English. It’s free to call. The number is (+41) 800 133 133.Qtel. (+41) 800 133 133, www.lgbt-helpline.ch. zurich.inyourpocket.com


Hotels SYMBOL KEY P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted T Child-friendly

H Conference facilities

R Internet in room U Facilities for the disabled F Fitness centre

L Parking on site

K Restaurant

8 Nearest tram station

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

6 Animal friendly

W Wi-fi connection

J City centre location

Zurich is a business destination first and foremost and hotel rates reflect that. From Friday night to Monday morning, prices often drop sharply. Why not take advantage of this and spend a weekend in one of the many four- and five-star hotels in the city? Despite this, accommodation in Zurich remains rather pricey and real budget accommodation is rare. But nevertheless there is something for any taste and almost any budget. In Switzerland hotels are officially categorized with stars from one to five. The categorization is done by hotelleriesuisse, the national hoteliers association. A hotel can also receive the supplement ‘superior’, indicating a higher level of service and quality. We list the hotels according to their official classification in the following categories: Cream of the Crop*****, Upmarket****, Midrange*** and Budget (0 to **). Outside this classification we list some of the hostels in town. Find more hotels on www.zurich.inyourpocket.com.

is different in layout and atmosphere. Many have traces of historical paintings which were brought to new life when the hotel was built in over ten years of work. Some rooms have modern elements which contrast with the ancient walls and beams. Others are furnished with antiques and look more classical. Some rooms have a private roof terrace with views over the old town towards the lake and the Alps. Naturally they all have the latest entertainment technology and bathrooms to dream of.QF‑12, Rennweg 7, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 224 25 26, fax +41 44 224 24 24, www.widderhotel.ch. 49 rooms. P­J­H­A­ R­6­U­F­L­K­W hhhhh

UPMARKET B2 BOUTIQUE HOTEL + SPA The B2 Boutique Hotel + Spa is located in the buildings of the former Hürlimann brewery in Zurich’s Enge district. The former mash house is home to the standard rooms now, while the two storied Hürlimann suites are situated in the former cold store building. The industrial past of the site surrounds you constantly here, not merely on the huge photos of the old brewery hanging on the walls. They have four different categories of rooms, all in a contemporary style with wooden floors and in predominantly white and light brown colours. The suites have a balcony - and for extra extravagance, a bath tub right beside the bed. QC‑15, Brandschenkestrasse 152, tel. (+41) 44 567 67 67, fax (+41) 44 567 67 68, www.b2boutiquehotels.com. 60 rooms. P­i­H­A­6­U­K­C­W hhhh

CREAM OF THE CROP ALDEN SUITE HOTEL SPLÜGENSCHLOSS This small boutique five-star hotel, in a building from the late 19th century in the Enge district, lies within walking distance of the lake and the glamorous shopping area around Bahnhofstrasse. Each room is one of a kind, with a careful choice of modern and antique furniture and art. Bathrooms are huge, with a jacuzzi-style bath tub and a rain shower. Book one of the lofts (one has its own sauna) and enjoy your own private terrace above the rooftops of Zurich. The ground floor harbours a restaurant with international cuisine and a bar. A very personal five-star experience.QE‑15, Splügenstrasse 2, 8Tunnelstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 289 99 99, fax (+41) 44 289 99 98, www.alden.ch. 22 rooms. P­J­R­6­K­W hhhhh WIDDER The fabulous Widder is situated in nine former residential houses in the mediaeval old town, with the prestigious Bahnhofstrasse just around the corner. Each of the 49 rooms facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

You may actually not want to leave: the impressive library at the B2 Boutique hotel. PD

HOTEL OPERA ZÜRICH The Hotel Opera Zürich is a very classical boutique hotel with a slightly modern touch. Located in the fashionable Seefeld district, this is a convenient place to stay not only for a visit to Zurich’s opera: Bahnhofstrasse with its boutiques as well as the historic old town is just two tram stops away. The lakefront is close too - if you get a room on the third floor or higher you might even get a glimpse of the lake. Their restaurant Opera across the street is well known for its fish specialities.QH‑15, Dufourstrasse 5, 8Opernhaus, tel. (+41) 44 258 99 99, fax (+41) 44 258 99 00, www.operahotel.ch. 58 rooms. P­J­A­R­6­ L­W hhhh April – May 2018 59


Hotels BUDGET HOTELS MARTA The Marta is a functional hotel, very centrally located in the Niederdorf, just a few minutes away from the main train station. The blue coloured rooms have a modern feel. There is a twin bed, a bathroom with shower and a flatscreen TV in every room, as well as Wi-fi throughout the hotel. The hotel is run by a non-profit cooperation, giving socially challenged women an opportunity to work. There is no air-conditioning but ventilators. QG‑11, Zähringerstrasse 36, 8Central, tel. (+41) 44 269 95 95, fax (+41) 44 269 95 90, www.hotelmarta. ch. 39 rooms. J­H­A­6­U­W hh PALAIS KRAFT The Palais Kraft is one of the more unusual places to stay in Zurich. Located on Zürichberg, Zurich’s rather exclusive residential area, this luxurious private residence offers large studio rooms with high ceilings for long and short term stays as well as serviced apartments with 1 to 3 bedrooms. All studio rooms have wooden floors, a terrace, a flat-screen TV and a kitchenette with a microwave and fridge. With just a small number of rooms and apartments, the Kraft is able to provide a private and personal atmosphere. The tram gets you to the city centre in less than 15 minutes, the stop is just two

minutes away. Note there is no air-conditioning.QJ‑11, Kraftstrasse 33, 8Toblerplatz, tel. (+41) 44 388 84 85, fax (+41) 44 383 23 48, www.palaiskraft.com. A­R­ U­D­W SHERATON ZURICH NEUES SCHLOSS HOTEL This hotel is located in a landmark building in Zurich’s financial district. The rooms are decorated in tasteful yellow and brown hues and sport arty photos of Zurich. A kettle, a safe, a minibar and an iron and board are provided. The lake and the old town are both only a five-minute walk away, so the Sheraton Neues Schloss is not only a good choice for your business stay but for a weekend trip as well. On the top floor there are five suites, all with balconies.QF‑14, Stockerstrasse 17, 8Stockerstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 286 94 00, fax (+41) 44 286 94 45, www.sheratonneuesschloss.ch. 60 rooms. P­J ­H­A ­R­6­U­L­K­W hhhh STEIGENBERGER HOTEL BELLERIVE AU LAC The Steigenberger is a four-star superior hotel situated directly on the lake, only a few tramstops from Bahnhofstrasse. Swiss designer Tilla Theus has carefully restored the historic hotel, mixing art deco elements like lush leather-padded walls and delicate, geometric wooden side-boards with discrete contemporary styling, such as in the bathrooms finished in rock. A small spa area offers sauna and solarium for your recreation. The elegant in-house restaurant Vivus offers views of the

Eating with all senses THE VBZ GOURMET LINE On the VBZ gourmet line, we‘ll be serving you the most interesting views of Zurich in the rolling restaurant, a vintage tram. Please have a seat: www.vbz.ch/yummytram

genusslinie englisch 124 x 90mm.indd 60 Zurich In Your Pocket

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24.01.2018 16:56:30 zurich.inyourpocket.com


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Hotels

lake and a range of classy meat and fish dishes, while the gentlemen’s club atmosphere of the Vivus bar makes it a good place to wind down your day.QH‑15, Utoquai 47, 8Kreuzstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 254 40 00, fax (+41) 44 254 40 01, www.zuerich.steigenberger.ch. 51 rooms. P­J­H­A­R­6­U­F­L­K­D­W hhhh

palais kraft Residential Club

MID-RANGE ADLER This charming three-star hotel is situated in the middle of Niederdorf, the restaurant district of the old town. Soundproof windows make sure you get only the advantages of the location. In each room local artist Heinz Blum has painted a view of the old town on the wall. The mini bars are cooled ecologically and there is a ventilation system instead of air-conditioning. Couples can book a single room with a grand lit (140cm) for a lower price than a real double. Cheese restaurant on the ground floor.QG‑12, Rosengasse 10, Am Hirschenplatz, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. (+41) 44 266 96 96, fax (+41) 44 266 96 69, www.hotel-adler.ch. 52 rooms. J­H­A­6­K­W hhh CITY The City is a central choice, with Bahnhofstrasse and the old town in walking distance. It was completely refurbished in 2013 by Dyer-Smith | Frey, so each room now has an individual design with classic, powerful colours, some with carpets, some with parquet flooring. All have a desk and an espresso machine and a bathroom with fancy LEDs around the mirrors, so you can admire yourself in the right light. Small rooftop terrace for your coffee break.QF‑12, Löwenstrasse 34, 8Löwenplatz, tel. (+41) 44 217 17 17, fax (+41) 44 217 17 18, www.hotelcity.ch. 60 rooms. P­J­H­A­R­6­K­W hhh

HOSTELS YOUTH HOSTEL This modern youth hostel has four- and six-bed rooms with bunk beds and shared showers and toilets. All rooms have a small vestibule where lockers and the washbasin are located - so latecomers don‘t wake up the rest. There are also private doubles and four-bed rooms with en-suite bathrooms. 24 hours reception and cheap meals (20Sfr incl. soft drink). It‘s just a fiveminute walk to the lake and 15 min by tram to the centre. On the weekends a night bus (N°12) stops right in front of the hostel all night long. Great place to meet other travellers.QMutschellenstrasse 114, 8Morgental, tel. (+41) 43 399 78 00, fax (+41) 43 399 78 01, www.youthhostel.ch/zurich. 76 rooms. H­A­U­K­W

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YOUR PRIVATE APARTMENT 30-200 SQM FOR SHORT & LONG STAYS FRIENDLY ENGLISH SPEAKING STAFF CHILDREN & PETS WELCOME

PLEASE VISIT OUR WEBSITE WWW.PALAISKRAFT.COM April – May 2018 61


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© OpenStreetMap contributors. Available under the Open Database License.


Index 4Leoni Firenze 21 Adler 61 Airbijoux 52 Airside Center at Zurich Airport 46 Alden Suite Hotel Splügenschloss 59 Arthouse Movie 16 B2 Boutique Hotel + Spa 59 Babu's Bakery 27 Baltho Küche & Bar 20 Bar Basso 23 Barfly'z 28 Benci Brothers 48 Best of Switzerland Tours 57 Best of Zurich - Zürich City Tour 37 Beyer Watches & Jewellery 52 Bonesklinic 30 Boutique Caran d'Ache 49 Boutique Christian Fischbacher 50 Bovelli 27 Brasserie Lipp 19 Cabinet 45 Café du Bonheur 27 Calypso 31 Casa Ferlin 21 Chäsalp 19 Chocolat Frey Visitor Centre40 CHRIST Watches & Jewelry 52 City 61 Commercio 21 Cooper's Pub 42 Cranberry 58 Daniel H. 58 Die Macherei 49 Die Zukunft 30 Dolmetsch 50 Dreierlei 24 DuDa 30 eldorado 28 Enea Tree Museum 57 Erfolg 49 Fabric Frontline 50 Fata Morgana 52 Felix Café am Bellevue 27 FIFA World Football Museum  36 Flea Market Kanzlei 36 Foxtrail - Scavenger Hunt 56 Franz Carl Weber 40, 48 Fraumünster 32 Gant 45 gaymeboys.com online magazine 58 Gellner & Friends 52 Gemeinschaftszentren (community centres) 40 Giacometti murals 32 Ginger 22 Gleis 9 42

Globus 44 Globus Delicatessa 50 Goethe 29 Gran Sasso 24 Grossmünster 33 Hatecke 24 Haus Hiltl 21 Heaven 58 Hive 31 Im Viadukt 46 IWC Schaffhausen Boutique52 Jade 31 Jao Praya 42 Jdaburg 26 Jelmoli 45 Kafi für Dich 41 Kindercity 40 Korner 18 Kosmos 16 Kulturama - Museum of Mankind 35 Kunsthaus 36 La Fonte 42 Lake Zurich Cruises 33 Laser Arena 56 Leder Locher 49 Le Dézaley 19 Les Ambassadeurs 53 Les Halles 23 LGBT+ Helpline 58 Lindenhof 34 LOOQ 45 Loro Piana 47 Maison Gassmann 46 Maison Manesse 18 Mamma Mia 42 Mammut 48 Marta 60 Mascotte 31 Meister 53 Meng Cutlery 51 Mère Catherine 19 Mesa 18 messer-scharf 51 MFO-Park 34 Minirock 31 Mogli Chinderlade 40 Mohrenkopf 25 Montblack 29 Moods 30 Morgarten 28 Neela 17 Nooba 18 Och Sport 48 Oliver Twist 30 Ooki 23 Opera Zurich 59 Orell Füssli - The Bookshop 44 Osswald 48 Palais Kraft 60 Paneolio 22 Partime 53

facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

Petra's Tip Top Bar 58 Pic-Chic 20 PKZ Women 46 Predigerhof 58 Rage 58 Razzia 29 Rec Rec 44 Rheinfall - Europe's tallest waterfall 57 Rheinfelder Bierhalle 26 Rigi - Mountain with a view57 Rolli's Steakhouse 42 Rosenhofmarkt 36 Rosi 17 Rote Fabrik 30 Safari Bar 30 Schützengasse 25 Schweizer Finanzmuseum (Finance Museum) 36 Schweizer Heimatwerk 51 Scotch & Soda 46 Segway City Tours 38 Sheraton Zurich Neues Schloss Hotel 60 Sihlcity 46 Sihlpost 9 Smith and De Luma 24 Sprüngli Café 27 Stadtbad Hammam & Spa 56 Stefi Talman 49 Steigenberger Hotel Bellerive au Lac 60 Stories of the Old Town Guided walk 38 St. Peter 34 Swiss Casinos Zürich 29 Talacker 29 Teddy's Souvenir-Shop 51 Teuscher Confiserie 44 The Bite 18

the Gallery 44 The International 28 Thermalbad & Spa Zürich 56 The Zurich Experience City Tour 38 tibits 21 Tissot Boutique 53 Tobelhof 26 Tram Museum and Vintage Tram 36 Transa 48 Tritt-Käse 50 Trois Pommes The Store Women 47 Uetliberg 33 Vagabundo 28 Valentino 47 Vapiano 22 Victorinox Flagship Store 51 Villa & Park Patumbah 35 Vollenweider Chocolatier Confiseur 44 Wasserkirche 34 Weisser Wind 26 Welschland 50 Widder 59 Widder Bar 29 Yooji's Dreikönig 23 Youth Hostel 61 Zero Zero Rare Groove 44 Zeughauskeller 25 Ziegelhütte 42 Zoological and Paleontological Museums of the University of Zurich 41 Zum Grünen Glas 20 Zum Kropf 26 Zunfthaus zur Haue 20 zürichfoto.ch 51 Züri rollt - bikes for free 7

FEATURES INDEX Adult entertainment Breakfast Casino Cheese restaurants Lake Zurich Language smarts Live music Luxury fashion Meet Joyce, Lenin & Co More for less with the Zürich Card National holidays Swiss cuisine Taxi smarts Tax free shopping Tourist Information Useful Zurich apps

31 26 29 19 33 9 30 47 34 37 10 22 6 52 10 8 April – May 2018 65


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