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Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

2012 Visitors Guide to the

Sunset Side of Cape Breton

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Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

LINKS GOLF HAS ARRIVED IN CANADA. Our apologies for the 500-year delay.

As great a course as Cabot Links will be -and trust me it will a great oneit will be an even better golf experience. Maybe the best. - Bob Weeks SCOREGolf

Grand opening June 29, 2012

Reservations 1.855.652.2268 or

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

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Published by

Oran The Inverness

Inverness Communications Ltd. PO Box 100, Inverness, NS B0E 1N0 Tel. 902-258-2253 or 258-3400 In partnership with

Inverness County Recreation/Tourism

PO Box 179, Port Hood, NS B0E 2W0

Table of Contents Inverness County Map Welcome Port Hastings Port Hawkesbury Trail System Glendale Judique Worth reading Port Hood Mabou Lake Ainslie Whycocomagh Orangedale Inverness Broad Cove The Margarees Acadian Shore Cheticamp CBH National Park Pleasant Bay Meat Cove

2 3 4 6 10 14 16 20 22 28 32 35 40 41 52 53 57 59 69 70 72

Inverness County Map Page 2


Route 19, the Ceilidh Trail, follows the northwestern or Gulf of St. Lawrence shoreline of Cape Breton Island and takes you on a wonderful drive along saltwater bluffs and beaches, through Craigmore, Port Hood, Inverness, and Margaree Forks. Gaelic is still spoken and taught along the Ceilidh Trail. Ceilidh (Kay-lee) is Gaelic for “party” or “gathering,” and these summer night happenings featuring toe-tapping fiddle music take place up and down the coast during the summer months. The welcoming phrase Ciad Mile Failte (100,000 welcomes) can be seen on store fronts and doorways all along the Ceilidh Trail. From Port Hastings to Port Hood, the Ceilidh Trail follows the shore of St. George’s Bay, Nova Scotia’s largest bay. From Port Hood, the Ceilidh Trail moves inland, passing through the farming community of Mabou, internationally famous for its musicians, including The Rankins and the Beaton family. After Mabou, you will pass through the rural communities of Glenville, home to Glenora Distillery, distiller of North America's single malt whisky, then into Strathlorne, emerging once again to the coast at Inverness. Once a major coal mining town, Inverness is now the major service centre for the farming district. The town features a supervised sandy beach, a Miners’ Museum and a harness racing track. From Inverness, the Ceilidh Trail leads to Dunvegan where you have a choice of continuing on Route 19 to Margaree Forks and on to the Cabot Trail, or taking Route 219 which skirts the shore. This coastal route will bring you to Margaree Harbour where it meets the Cabot Trail.

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

Along the way, there are more choices. Route 252, which branches off 395, takes you through a rich belt of dairy farms and other agricultural accomplishments, delivering you to Route 19 at Mabou. At Scotsville, one can continue to follow 395 which itself follows the southwest arm of the famous Margaree River, meeting Route 19 at Southwest Margaree. Or, you can decide to cross the bridge at Scotsville and follow the road around the north side of Lake Ainslie, coming out in Strathlorne, just three miles from Inverness and its beautiful sandy beach. Another interesting alternative is to continue on Route 105 once you have seen Whycocomagh, taking the turn-off at the “Red Barn” onto the Cabot Trail. This highway will bring you into the beautiful Margarees, a series of villages scattered along one of the world’s most celebrated salmon rivers. All these driving choices, whether along the ever-changing shoreline or through the middle of Inverness County, will bring you to Margaree Harbour, where the Cabot Trail begins travelling north through the Acadian area of Inverness County to Cheticamp, a rich cultural community that has survived and thrived for more than 200 years.

Ciad Mile Fàilte A Hundred Thousand Welcomes


(Trans Canada Highway) You can also reach the Cabot Trail by following

Route 105 through the centre of Cape Breton Island to Whycocomagh, passing through many small rural communities, including Waycobah First Nation. Whycocomagh is situated at the head of the Bras d’Or Lakes, and from this picturesque village a visitor has several options for exploring western Cape Breton. By taking Route 395 beside Vi’s Restaurant, you are on your way to Lake Ainslie, Nova Scotia’s largest freshwater lake, an area that offers campers and cottagers an opportunity to relax and enjoy the beauty of the lake which is ringed with mountains.

Routes through Inverness County will lead you to wherever you wish to go on Cape Breton Island But you may not want to leave once you find yourself on the

Sunset Side Toll Free 1-800-567-2400

Recreation / Tourism Information, P.O. Box 179, Port Hood, NS B0E 2W0

Email: Website:

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012


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An Inverness County Welcome A chilling welcome to Inverness County (The late storyteller, Archie Neil Chisholm of Margaree Forks, once related the following story about one of the Inverness hotels in the early years of this century.) “One of the old time hotels in Inverness was noted for all you would suffer with the cold in winter. There was very little heat. In those days, when you stayed in the hotel at night, it was usually to go out on the train at 7:30 in the morning.

“There was always notice given to an old gentleman by the name of John R. MacDonald who used to pick up the passengers and their luggage at the hotel with a horse and wagon. “On one particular night, this traveller was in one of the rooms and it was extremely cold. He got up about 7 o’clock in the morning and it was snowing and extremely frosty. Of course, Mr. MacDonald

had one of those great big handlebar moustaches. He had driven down from his home with the horse and sleigh to pick up the passenger and icicles had formed on his moustache. When he came into the hotel he was just about almost frozen. “The traveller was just finishing his breakfast and he looked at Mr. MacDonald and asked, ‘Which room did you sleep in last night?’”

We want to assure visitors that a much warmer welcome awaits you today throughout Inverness County. As you drive through our wealth of landscapes and sunsets, cultures and music, you will also pass through two thousand years of Mi’kmaq, and two hundred years of European settlement history. We consider ourselves fortunate to live so close to the past while living in the present and looking to the future. There are cultural events taking place across Inverness County that bring the visitor close to the traditions of the Mi’kmaq, the Acadians, the Scots, the Irish and other influences. Often, these influences have overlapped, borrowed from each other and shared with each other. While each remains distinct in the memory of its cultural roots, we share a common denominator: we are all from Cape Breton. We are all Cape Bretoners. The warm welcome to Cape Breton is as old as the first settlers who faced a cold winter with the help of the Mi’kmaq, and we extend that welcome to you, a gesture out of history. For those with an interest in history, between the concerts and sunsets there are a series of several community-operated museums we recommend you visit, where documents and artifacts, photographs and depictions preserve one aspect of our memory. Often, when a young fiddler strikes bow to fiddle, the tune that rises fresh from the instrument is as ancient as the Gaelic language. In tales told by Gaelic, French or English storytellers, there are glimpses of the hardship and humour that served as a double-team pulling generation after generation in Inverness County through time. Of those stories Mabou songwriter Jimmy Rankin sings, “Some are made of true detail/and some are purely fiction.” What matters in the end, though, is not the truth or fiction of a well-told story but the story itself. Inverness County has much to offer a visitor in beauty and music, in recreation and accommodations, and for those who wish to linger a little longer, there are other experiences that we hope will prove pleasant. And may your hotel/motel room always be warmer than the shivery experience of that chilled-to-the-bone traveler of 90 years ago.

• Hair care • Make Up • Waxing • Hands & Feet • Facials • Products • Packages

Come visit Kosmetikos Salon & Spa where our relaxing atmosphere and professional staff will take care of your hair, esthetics needs and massage therapy. We use only the highest quality products and have a talented, licensed staff to get you looking your very best!

26 Paint St., Unit A, Port Hawkesbury,NS B9A 3J8

• Registered Massage Therapist


Page 4 Port Hastings

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

Port Hastings Museum and Archives offer history and a Quilt and Craft Shop The Port Hastings Museum and Archives is located at the entrance to Cape Breton Island overlooking the panoramic view of the Strait of Canso. For decades, the Port Hastings Museum Society has been collecting and documenting valuable historical information about the development of the area, and now, in a large, bright building, the curator, employees and volunteers are able to provide visitors with a stunning depiction of the Strait of Canso. The deep waters of the Strait have played a defining role in the lives of the residents of this part of Cape Breton and mainland Nova Scotia since the beginning. Linden MacIntyre, Linden Hundreds of photographs, archival MacIntyre, award-winning and genealogical records and other investigative reporter for CBC’s artifacts relating to the construction the fifth estate, and Giller Award- and impact of the Canso Causeway, winning fiction writer for his best- the industries and lifestyle of the area which was settled in 1788 tell our selling novel, story. There are several scale model The Bishop’s replicas of vessels that sailed through Man, has also these waters by well known model won critical shipbuilder Mark Boudreau and acclaim for prints of paintings by internationally his boyhood renowned marine artist J. Franklin r e m i n i s c e s Wright.

of growing up in Port Hastings during the construction phase of the Canso Causeway in his book, Causeway: A Passage from Innocence. Visitors will find within the Port Hastings Museum many of the documents and artifacts that informed that fine piece of writing. In April of this year, MacIntyre has released a new, critically acclaimed novel, Why Men Lie.

Port Hastings Museum and Archives

& the

Quilt and Craft Shop

at the entrance to Cape Breton Island • Bus Tours Welcome • Picnic Tables • Admission to Museum • Ice Cream Parlor • Wheelchair accessible • Washrooms

OPEN Mid-June to Mid-October

Operated by the Port Hastings Historical Society


Young woman was 19-century entrepreneur The entry point for Cape Breton Island has seen thousands of people arrive on the island, some for a visit and some to find new homes. One of the most storied of settlers is Douce Belhace, a young woman born on the Channel Island of Jersey who came here in the late 1700s. Widowed in the early 1800s and having buried her only child, Douce proceeded to become a major entrepreneur. She bought and sold cattle and lumber, shipped produce to the Caribbean and to Channel Islands, as well as tons of salt fish and thousands of boardfeet. She opened a large gypsum mine, ran a farm and employed a full-time weaver. She bought and sold land and, in her detailed will, remembered relatives back home in Jersey, but also gave substantial gifts to all the major religious organizations in the area. Instead of going back home after the death of her husband and child, she was a productive citizen and stimulator of the economy. Her grave is in a small cemetery just at the side of the canal at the Causeway. • Cars • MINIVANS • Trucks • SUV’s • Cargo Vans • Cube Vans

Serving the Quad Counties and Strait Area

For Worldwide Reservations in 75 Countries 1-800-car-rent* (1-800-227-7368)

For Online Reservations visit:

46 Paint Street (Across from Wal-Mart) Port Hawkesbury, NS

Museum to host Celtic Colours workshop event On October 6th, the Port Hastings Museum will host a Celtic Colours event from 9 a.m. until 4 p.m. which will include demonstrations of quilting, weaving, spinning and other heritage crafts. Naturally, the event will also include tea and oatcakes. A fine way to spend some time while waiting for some nearby Celtic Colours concert to start.

Coldest Beer in Town!

Cape Breton

902-625-2951 Cell 902-227-7159

Within the Port Hastings Museum, The Quilt and Craft Shop provides an opportunity to enjoy handmade items by Cape Breton artisans: weaving, knitting, jewelry, quilted items and demos. Bus tours are welcome. Visit the ice cream barn and enjoy the picnic area. The Quilt and Craft Shop also provides opportunities for visitors to take part in a quilting project. The Port Hastings Museum and the Quilt and Craft Shop will be opened from the middle of June through to the middle of October, so visitors to the Celtic Colours International Music Festival will also be able to enjoy all that is offered under this museum roof.

Best Pizza and ...

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Quilt and Craft Shop provides hands-on quilting experience

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625-3270 714 Reeves St.

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

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The Canso Causeway

Did You Know?

- The Canso Causeway, winding across the Strait of Canso for 4500 feet, was completed in May of 1955 and, at 217 feet, remains the world’s deepest causeway. The surface width of the Causeway is 80 feet, pyramiding up from an ocean floor base 830 feet wide. - Until the Canso Causeway was constructed at a cost of $22,000,000, a ferry service carried passengers, cars and trains across the Strait. Porcupine Mountain, across from the Strait, supplied the 10,092,000 tons of rock used to close the Strait of Canso. - Approximately 98,000 cubic yards of cement were used to build the canal whose width is the same as the Panama Canal. The length of the Causeway swing bridge is 308 feet. - On August 13th, 1955, the official opening of the Canso Causeway took place with hundreds of pipers and thousands of people walking across. - The Canso Strait has been icefree since the causeway was built, creating at nearby Port Hawkesbury the deepest ice-free port on the eastern continent.

PHOTO BY Barbara MacKinnon


cove motel Restaurant & Gift Shop Auld’s Cove, NS

Celebrating over 33 years in business Wedding Gifts, Candles, Souvenirs, Pottery, Clothing, Lug Bags, Local Art

And Much More!

Across fromTim Horton’s on TC Hwy #104 in Auld’s Cove

Troy Lodge Cottages

9 newly renovated cottages in a beautiful park like setting. All situated just a few feet from the water

719 Highway 19, Troy, Nova Scotia


email: website:

Fine Apparel Boutique & Gift Shop • Wall Hangings, Clocks and Frames • FLOJOS & Algeria shoes • Wide Selection of Cotton Sweaters, Blouses & Tops • Ladies Jackets, Jeans, Pants, Dresses & Purses • Costume Jewellry and more..... Fresh Lobster &


All donations & proceeds from special occasions go to Breast Cancer Accommodation research throughout the season!

Tel. 902-747-2700 Fax. 902-747-2010

Page 6 Port Hawkesbury

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

What’s showing at the J. Franklin Wright Gallery This summer and autumn, the J. Franklin Wright Gallery in Port Hawkesbury’s Civic Centre will be exhibiting works from three artistic sources. From May 19th-June 30th, the gallery will feature its annual Students’ Show, showcasing the best of the region’s young artists. From July 5th - August 22nd, the gallery will be showing the works of Jay Ouellette, a visual artist whose diverse explorations in creativity have led her through a spectrum of mediums from stained glass to multi media, and currently has focused on her painting, which she continues to do here in Nova Scotia where she set up her studio in 2003. Through September-October, the Wright Gallery will feature the work of rug hooker Deanna Fitzpatrick. The Newfoundland-born artist who now lives

in Amherst, Nova Scotia has a mantra that encourages her to “make something beautiful every day.” Through her art, she does just that, and the emphasis on her Franklin Wright exhibit fuses both art and sport as her hooked rugs will depict hockey scenes.

Past Exhibits - Shelley Mitchell

Work of J.Franklin Wright

Fall Exhibit - Deanne Fitzpatrick

The gallery itself is named for renowned marine artist J. Franklin Wright, a native and resident of Port Hawkesbury. Wright’s depiction of sailing ships at sea have earned the artist an international reputation.

Cape Breton Causeway Inn

Past Exhibits - Hugh Ross

Your Scenic Trail to Cape Breton Island begins at our doorstep!

Competitive Rates Friendly Service Only Minutes from Port Hawkesbury on the main route to all your island destinations. 21 Old Victoria Road, Port Hastings, NS Tel: 902-625-0460 Email:

Toll Free Reservations: 1-888-525-4777


902-625-1300 or 1-888-832-SKYE (832-7593) Email

160 Highway 4, Port Hastings, NS B9A 1M5

People Working Together To Serve You Better PHone (902) 863-2393 200 College Street, Antigonish

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

Granville Green Concert Series ~ The popular Granville Green free concerts are returning to the Granville Street space, offering six concerts, one each Sunday between July 8th and August 12th. July 8th - Rich Aucoin. Mardeen will be opening for the featured musician. Like all Granville Green concerts, it starts at 7 p.m. and there is no admission. July 15th - Slowcoaster, the popular and award-winning Cape Breton band that recently won the Group Recording of the Year for The Darkest of Discos. The band has just returned from a China tour and discovered that “China loves Slowcoaster!” Slowcoaster’s special guest for the concert will be Molly Thomason, who at 17 is alreaady a force to be reckoned with. As her current single “Beauty Queen” is garnering airplay across the country. July 22nd - Soho Ghetto. The 7-piece band out of Halifax is known for their hook-laden anthems, vocal harmonies, and engaging live show, this pop orchestra is equally at home in an intimate listening-room or a raucous East Coast pub. Joining Soho Ghetto on the stage will be Andy Brown, the New Brunswick performer who has emerged as a must-see performer on the Canadian music scene. Touted as a performer that ‘gets into your head and heart’, the 2010 Galaxie Rising Star winner has a contemporary folk-rock style all his own, taking you on a lyrical journey that

transcends a realm torn between love, happiness, and sorrow. July 29th - Singer-songwriter Jimmy Rankin, whose most recent album, Here in My Heart, has been keeping the energetic performer on the road and on tour. Fortunately, that road leads home for an evening concert at Granville Green. Opening Rankin’s concert will be Carleton Stone, the charismatic performer and soulful songwriter who has honed his reputation for his sweatdrenched live shows in Maritime indie clubs. Carleton’s 2009 independent album garnered an East Coast Music Award nomination (Rock Recording of the Year) and two Music Nova Scotia nominations (New artist/group Recording and Pop/rock artist/group recording). August 5th - Rawlins Cross. Rawlins Cross is one of Canada’s most accomplished and beloved Celtic bands, whose eighth album, Heart Head Hands has rekindled the magic of the group, pulling them back together after a few years hiatus. They still please wherever they play. Opening for Rawlins Cross will be The Outside Track, a group whose stunning synthesis of virtuosity and energy, marries Canadian, Scottish and Irish music and song. The band has been rapturously received around the world. Hailing from Scotland, Ireland, Cape Breton (Mairi Rankin) and Vancouver, its five members are united by a love of traditional music and a commitment to creating new music on its foundation. August 12th The return of Cape Breton fiddle great Ashley MacIsaac to Granville Green. The popular p e r f o r m e r

Page 7 David Myles

The Stanfields

promises to bring the Granville Green Concert Series to a memorable close with his command of his instrument, the genius of his talent that has taken him from the Broad Cove Concert to Carnegie Hall. Ashley’s guest performer at this concert is Aryn Benoit, who has won the Quad County Showcase at Granville Green, Port Hawksbury, sponsored by 101.5 The Hawk. With this win, Aryn will hold the opening spot at the 2012 Granville Green. Her song, “A Ballad For Mother Earth” has been featured in the Beaver Mountain Provincial Park video.

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Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

Vibrant town still writing its history

Port Hawkesbury is a major commercial and recreation centre located on the shores of the Strait of Canso that celebrates itself each summer with the Festival of the Strait with activities that can include sailing and canoe races, outdoor concerts, dances and craft shows. The town itself has much to celebrate year-round with easy access to swimming in the community pool, tennis, golfing, hiking, sailing and other activities. With year-round services including accommodations, banks, restaurants, shopping malls, a liquor store and museums, Port Hawkesbury today reflects its long history dating back to 1789, a beginning that tested the mettle of the first settlers, and they tested well. People spent those first winters tending livestock, exporting timber, and trapping muskrat and caribou. In the spring, oil from dogfish, cod and seal was collected for the export trade to England. Gypsum from the Strait of Canso

was being shipped to the southern United States. By the 1830s, shipbuilding and fishing created new opportunities for employment, giving smaller businesses a reason to open. Local courts were established in 1831 to serve the needs of the people, who previously had to travel to Sydney for their ordinary legal work. By the 1880s, Port Hawkesbury was gaining quite a reputation as a seafaring port, and the waterfront was bustling with activity created by businessmen. In 1889, with a population of 658, the Town of Port Hawkesbury was incorporated. The only way to cross the Strait of Canso was by boat. Numerous ferries operated over the years, many of them being private. The arrival of the railroads in the 1890s marked a new era and changed traditional routes, with railroad ferries running between the mainland and the island, keeping a constant means

Buying or selling real estate? Give us a call or drop in.

of travel and transportation of goods available. The railway became an important employer. Ferry and rail service to the Island continued through the six decades, until August 1955 when the Canso Causeway opened. Many opposed the building of the Causeway as it meant an end to the ferries and the rail businesses of the day which so many people relied on. Although the causeway did close some doors, it opened up many more. By the 1960s and `70s, the people of the Strait of Canso found themselves in one of Canada’s most rapidly developing areas. With the Causeway in place, Port Hawkesbury now boasts an ice-free, deep-water port to attract business. Georgia-Pacific, Statia Terminals, USG, a power plant, and Sable Offshore Oil Co. are some of the industries which have located in the area. Port Hawkesbury continues to grow and prosper today.

Welcome to the Sunset Side of Cape Breton

Two offices to serve you 304 Reynolds St., Port Hawkesbury, NS B9A 2Z5

toll free 888.625.0302 9978 Grenville St., St. Peters, NS B0E-3B0

Toll Free 877.535.2485

Tel. 738.3038

Rodger Cuzner, M.P.

Cape Breton-Canso




Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

MacPuffin Motel

• 32 Modern Units • All Non-Smoking Rooms • In-Room Coffee • In-Room Hair Dryers • In-Room Iron & Ironing Board • Cable TV • Air Conditioned • Indoor Pool and Fitness Room • Guest Laundromat • Pets Allowed • Free Parking • Fax & Photocopy services • Free wireless internet • Guest access computer available • FREE Continental Breakfast

Port Hawkesbury, Nova Scotia

1 800 867 2212 373 Highway 4, Port Hastings, NS B9A 1M8

Quality Inn

HOTEL AMENITIES . Business Centre and Fax/Copy Services . Restaurant - Lounge • Fitness Centre - Guest Laundry • FREE Parking - Accessible Accommodations

1 800 565 1275

Quality Inn

Phone (902) 625-0621 Fax (902) 625-1525

GUEST ROOM AMENITIES • 100% Smoke Free • FREE Continental Breakfast • FREE Wireless Internet • FREE Local Calls • FREE Daily Newspaper • In Room Coffee Makers • Iron & Ironing Boards/Hair Dryers • Remote Control TV with Cable • Select rooms have 42” Flat Panel LCD TVs • Select rooms have Fridges and Microwaves

Halifax/Dartmouth Nova Scotia

313 Prince Albert Road, Dartmouth, NS B2Y 1N3

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(902) 469-5850 Fax (902) 469-5859

Sydney, Nova Scotia • Indoor pool and fitness room • Free wireless internet • Free parking and local calls • All rooms have fridges and microwaves • King-size rooms feature 42” LCD TVs • Guest-use computer and copy/fax service • Free in-room coffee and daily newspaper • Full service banquet and catering facilities • Full Service Restaurant and Lounge

Phone (902) 539-8101 Fax (902) 539-1743

1 888 793 9555 560 Kings Road, Sydney, Nova Scotia

Trail System Page 10

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

Centennial Woodland Trails~ The Stora Enso Centennial Woodland Trails were established on a woodlot purchased by the Company in 1976. The land formed part of an original grant to John Reeves in 1819. The woodlot is typical of Cape Breton. The better drained land on the upper hillside was used for pasture 70 years ago. It was later abandoned and grew up as spruce and fir. The remaining land was more suited to growing trees and was kept as woodland. In the late 1970s, most of the softwood trees were killed by the spruce budworm. Salvage Cutting (1977-1979): Green belts were kept along streams. All hardwood stands and large oak, ash, and white pine were preserved. Reforestation (1980/1981): 10% of the area was brush raked and planted with more than10,000 softwood seedlings. Spacing of natural regeneration occurred along Crandall Road. Plantations contain trees from the Maritimes and Western Canada -- native red, white, and black spruce; red, white, and jack pines and Western lodgepole pine; European species such as Norway spruce, Siberian larch, and Scotch pine were also planted. Naturally regenerated native spruce, fir, pine, tamarack, hemlock, maple, birch, poplar, white ash, and red oak occupy 90% of the property. Stora Enso planted its 50 millionth seedling in 1986. The 100 millionth seedling was planted in 1995 at Queensville on Highway 105 not far from the Woodland Trails. Forests are Canada’s most valuable renewable resource. Vital economic, social, and environmental benefits are derived from our woodlands. Productive forests that are properly managed can provide wildlife habitat, natural beauty, and many recreational benefits.

Port Hawkesbury Farmers Market

The Port Hawkesbury Farmers Market is being held on Thursdays from 2:00 p.m.-6:00 p.m. at the town’s Civic Centre. If the weather is nice it will be held outdoors! Drop by for some fresh local choices.

Churches Roman Catholic Anglican Church United Church Pentecostal Baptist Latter Day Saints Non-Denominational

625-1045 625-1044 625-2229 625-3257 625-2026 625-3141 625-0357

Hearthstone Inn &

Cape Breton Country Kitchen 388 Highway #4, Port Hastings, NS

~ Newly Renovated Rooms ~ Overlooking the Strait of Canso ~ Licensed Dining Room & Lounge

• In Room Coffee • In-Room Hairdryers • In-Room Iron & Boards • FREE Wireless Internet Some units equipped with Mini-fridge & microwave

Tel. 902-625-2480 ••• Fax 902-625-1613

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

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Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

Strait Festival Schedule ~ Wednesday July 11th

Princess Pageant: 6:30 p.m. at Shannon Studio in the Port Hawkesbury Civic Centre. Emceed by 1015 The Hawk’s Kelly Atchison. Open to the public. Free admission.

Thursday July 12th

Story Hour: 11 a.m. to Noon in the SAERC Library. For ages 9 and older. Please pre-register at 625-2729 Chowder Supper: 4 to 6 p.m. at the Royal Canadian Legion, Branch 43 Port Hawkesbury. Chowder, roll, tea or coffee and old fashioned bread pudding with sauce, $8 per person. Quad County Showcase: 6 to 8 p.m. on Granville Green. Featuring four local bands/entertainers. Festival crew selling hot dogs. Princesses will be introduced on-stage. Pre-Teen Dance: 8 to 10 p.m. at the Evergreen Club. Open to ages 8 to 12. $2 admission. Pop & water will be sold.

Evergreen Club, Port Hawkesbury. $10 per plate, includes dessert. Hosted by the 1st Port Hawkesbury Girl Guides. Kids Events: 1 to 3 p.m. on the Port Hawkesbury R e c r e a t i o n Grounds. Beach ball volleyball, musical hoops, water toss, sack

Friday July 13th

Road Hockey Tournament: 9 to 11 a.m., at the basketball courts behind SAERC. Championship game scheduled for 3 p.m.. Pre-registration required at 6255748 or 631-1130. 2 age divisions, up to age 14 welcome. Story Hour: 11 a.m. to Noon in the SAERC Library. For ages up to 8 years old. Come and meet The Festival of the Strait Princesses. Please pre-register at 625-2729. Free Swim & BBQ: Swim from 1 to 2:30 pm at the SAERC Pool. Followed by free hot dogs and pop.Cold Plate Lunch: 11 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. at The

races, candy jar, limbo and more. Seniors Tea: noon to 3 p.m. in Bear Head Conference Room of the Port Hawkesbury Civic Center. Free for seniors; RSVP’s accepted at 625-0544. 5 Card Dash: 6 p.m. at the Port Hawkesbury Horse Barn. Licensed bar available. Adult Pub: 7-11 p.m., under the Tent on the Port Hawkesbury Recreation Grounds. $10 admission; ids requested. Music by The Fourth Well

Saturday July 14th


5 & 10 K Fun Run: 9 a.m. from the Port Hawkesbury R e c r e a t i o n G r o u n d s . Registrations accepted on race day. Medals awarded in 10 categories. Free Pancake Breakfast: 9 to 11 a.m. at the Port Hawkesbury R e c r e a t i o n Grounds. Children’s Parade: 10 a.m. at the Port Hawkesbury Nursing Home. Show off your decorated bike, wagon or stroller. Ribbons for all participants. Kids Events: 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. on the

Port Hawkesbury Recreation Grounds. 2 Bounce-a-ramas, Crazy Cube, fish pond, face painting & tattoos and tons of games with prizes, including Candy Jar, Bingo, Candy Wheel and Carnival Games. See many of your favorite Disney Characters during the Festival! Food! Hot Dogs, Sausages, pop, water, will be sold on site. Washer Toss Tournament: 2:30 p.m. under the tent on the Recreation Grounds 19 and over only. Free admission. BBQ on site. Adult Pub 10 p.m. to 2 a.m. under the tent on the Port Hawkesbury Recreation Grounds. $15 admission; ids requested. Music by The Eddie Cummings Band.

Sunday July 15th

The Amazing Race: 10 a.m. Registrations accepted up to July 7th. Cash prize for the winning team. Phone 625-5636 to register. Bike Rodeo & Open House: 11 a.m. at the Port Hawkesbury Fire Hall. Rain or Shine. All welcome. Festival Street Parade: 1:30 p.m. Starting from the former NSCC Parking Lot (lower Civic Centre parking area), view the parade on the following streets: McSween, MacQuarrie Drive, Reynolds, Reeves, Old Sydney Road & Granville Street.

Following the parade, head to the Port Hawkesbury Recreation Grounds for these events Kids Events: 2:30- 5 p.m.. Entertainers Donna & Andy Shopping Extravaganza: 2:30 and throughout afternoon. Scensity, Heels on Wheels, Arboone. BBQ: hot dogs, sausages, pop and water will be sold. Granville Green Outdoor Concert Series: 6:45 p.m.

Fireworks at dusk!

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

The Tall Ships are coming!

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Celtic Colours music festival kicks off 10-day party in Port Hawkesbury

Tall Ships® 2012 are coming to Port Hawkesbury From July 19th until the 29th, the Tall Ships will be visiting Nova Scotia, and Port Hawkesbury is one of the scheduled Ports of call. Tall Ships Nova Scotia is the one of the biggest, most exciting events to hit the province’s waterfronts this summer. The perfect family event, Tall Ships showcases the best of Nova Scotia through music, art, food, film and history. On July 25-26, the Tall Ships will be visiting Port Hawkesbury, the town known as Cape Breton’s front porch. Port Hawkesbury is located along the shores of the Strait of Canso, Nova Scotia. This major commercial and recreation town offers accommodations, shopping, heritage and adventure. The town prides itself on its annual Festival of the Strait celebration held every summer mid-July. Details of events scheduled around the Tall Ships visit will become available closer to the event, so stay tuned.

Restaurant Open 6 am til 10 pm Daily

The 2012 edition of the Celtic Colours International Music Festival kicks off its ten-day marathon of music with a rousing presentation at Port Hawkesbury’s Civic Centre. The concert, scheduled for the evening of October 5th at the Port Hawkesbury Civic Centre, will be a showcase of Cape Breton and international Celtic talent. To learn who will be performing in this concert, or in scores of concerts scattered throughout Cape Breton Island, visit and book your tickets early.

Enjoy our Fresh Bakery items! All day traditional breakfast or enjoy one of our daily specials! Tempt yourself to a slice of homemade pie or one of the variety of flavors we have in ice cream cones...

Auld’s Cove Big Stop Restaurant Noted for its good food and service.

Phone 902-747-3264 Fax 902-747-2425

13239 Trans Canada Highway #104, Auld’s Cove, Nova Scotia

Page 14 Glendale


Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

Jeff MacDonald, Gaelic poet and singer will be part of the Glendale concert The Father John Angus Rankin Cultural Centre The Glendale Area Community Cooperative Ltd., (Co-chomunn Bràigh na h-Aibhneadh) are the caretakers of the Father John Angus Rankin Cultural Centre and sponsor several actives in the former glebe house which was built in 1890. when St. Mary of the Angels Parish was established. The Cooperative was formed to save this building from destruction and to up-keep and make it available for community members and groups as their space. The building hosts Cumunn Gàidhlig is Eachdraidh a’ Bhràigh (Glendale Gaelic & Historical Society), a CAP Site, the Glen Breagh Weavers Craft Guild and of course, the Glendale Area Community Cooperative. The Father John Angus Rankin Cultural Centre will be opening their gift shop on June 27 until mid October. Archives’ and Historical photos and articles are available for Al Edwards painting depicts the historic viewing along with Genealogy and 100 fiddlers on stage at the 1973 concert. research topics of the area.

The centre will be hosting bi-weekly Kitchen Ceilidhs on June 27th, July 11th and 25th, August 8th and 22nd ,September 12th and 26th, and on October 17th. On July 7-8, it will be Come Home Days in Glendale, with Gaelic teaching for all ages to be held on Saturday from 10:30 a.m.-3 p.m. as the community celebrates Féis a’ Bhràigh (the Glendale Gaelic Festival). The evening will feature a square dance in St. Mary’s Hall. st

Ol’ fashioned sack races at Glendale Come Home Days festivities 2010.

51 Glendale Concert Sunday, July 8th 2-5 p.m.

Great Music Fun Contests ... and More!

Scottie O & Greg Weekday Mornings

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

Page 15

Welcome! Failte! Bienvenue! to the

Sunset Side of Cape Breton

Front: Susan Mallette, Duart MacAulay, Gloria LeBlanc Back: Daniel Boudreau, Dwayne MacDonald, Jim Mustard

The Municipality of the County of Inverness is pleased to welcome you to the sunset side of Cape Breton Island. Savour our rousing ceilidhs, the steady cadence of massed fiddlers, the fun and camaraderie of a square dance. Share our enthusiasm for the county and sizzling sunsets over placid water and dancing bonfires. As you travel throughout our County become familiar with who we are and where we hope to be in the future. Enjoy our presence and then make western Cape Breton your vacation destination for fun, frolic and laughter amid the fluke of the whales and flight of the eagles. To learn more about our history, or to travel through time from the beginning of our incorporation to the present, to meet our present day council, CAO and various departments who manage the affairs of our illustrious Inverness County, Invite you visit: Duart MacAulay, Warden

Page 16 Judique

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

Music and a menu are part of Judique’s daily offering this summer Hungry?

How about stopping for lunch and having a live soundtrack of Cape Breton music accompany you through your meal? That’s what’s on the menu in the centre’s kitchen each mid-day, Monday through Saturday. The Celtic Music Interpretive Centre’s kitchen hours are 11:303:00, accommodating visitors through to 1:30 p.m., and a regular visit from bus tours from 1:00-2:00 p.m. During those times, an onsite fiddler, music director Kinnon Beaton or Melanie Holder, will be performing while diners can expect Allan Dewar or Betty Beaton accompanying on piano. So stopping for a sandwich can turn into a full blown, midday ceilidh, becoming one of your early and favourite experiences during your visit to Inverness County. And don’t be surprised if a square dance breaks out in the middle of your meal.

Or if you prefer to learn more about the music Each day from Monday through Saturday, at almost hourly intervals, the centre provides on-site talks and demonstrations about the traditional music of Cape Breton Island. Topics include the influence of Highland bagpiping, stepdancing and the Gaelic language on the Cape Breton fiddle style and how they are all interwoven within Cape Breton’s Gaelic/ Celtic culture. From June through until October, visitors will learn about the music from the accomplished two fiddlers on the centre’s staff this summer, composer Kinnon Beaton and Melanie Holder. There demonstrations will often be anchored by pianist Allan Dewar, who, along with being a celebrated musician who has toured with Natalie MacMaster and others, and who is the music director for the centre. These musicians will explain and play tune

Cape Breton’s Celtic Music Centre, Judique, Cape Breton

The Key to Cape Breton Celtic Music

~ Ceilidhs ~ Musical Demonstrations ~ Buddy MacMaster School of Fiddling ~ Lunchtime Ceilidhs ~ Workshops ~ ~ Interactive Exhibit Room ~ Musical Archives ~ Gift Shop ~ Pubs ~ Live Music ~ Annual Golf Classic - July 12th & 13th

Celtic Music Interpretive Centre

5471 Highway 19, Judique, NS, B0E 1P0

phone (902) 787.2708 fax (902) 787.2380

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012 types such as marches, strathspeys, jigs and reels. And because Cape Breton music is primarily composed with dancers in mind more than passive audiences, Melanie or talented guests will also be step-dancing to the music!

Thursdays offer workshops for visiting musicians

Each Thursday from July 5th until August 23rd the Interpretive Centre will be offering its Kitchen Ceilidh Workshop Series where each week a different master of the music will be instructing from 1-3 p.m. People can pre-register for the workshops, or if you just happen to be passing through drop-ins are welcome. The list of instructors is a stellar cast that includes fiddler Stan Chapman (July 5th); TBA (Thurs., July 12th); fiddler Gabrielle MacLellan (July 19th); TBA (July 26th); fiddler Wendy MacIsaac (Aug. 2nd): TBA (Aug. 9th): fiddler Glenn Graham (August 16th); and fiddler Shelley Campbell (Aug.23rd).

Gabrielle MacLellan

The Buddy MacMaster School of Fiddling During the annual Celtic Colours International Music Festival, the Celtic Music Centre offers its week-long Buddy MacMaster School of Fiddling from October 8-12, with scheduled instructors for the class of 2012 that include Shelley Campbell and Mairi Rankin (Monday, October 8th); Andrea Beaton, Gabrielle MacLellan (Tuesday, October 9th); Wendy MacIsaac and Rachel Davis (Wednesday, October 10th); Glenn Graham and Jeff Gosse (Thursday, October 11th); Kimberley Fraser and Kyle MacNeil (Friday, October 12th). One of the highlights for music fans is that the participants in the Buddy MacMaster School of Fiddling, as well as the instructors, will hold a Grand Finale Concert on Sunday October 14th, 2012 at the Celtic Music Interpretive Centre at 7:15 p.m.

Kinnon Beaton

Shelly Campbell

and s w e e N n i you l n t O o g ’ve e W . . more. ed cover nverness in I y Count Mike Hall

The Inverness

Serving you since 1976

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Page 18

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

Centre has extensive Celtic Music Archives The Celtic Music Centre, with its almost endless offering of live music, is a preservation hall for the living tradition of Cape Breton music, and fast paced series of demonstrations and ceilidhs and dances and instruction. Equally important, the Celtic Music Interpretive Centre houses one of the most impressive Cape Breton Music Archives on the island. Since its inception, the archives aspect of the interpretive centre has benefited from an evergrowing inventory of material, recordings, sheet music, documents, photographs and other memorabilia. Under the direction of onsite archivist Virginia MacIsaac, the cataloguing of the music and other inventory has been ongoing. The Celtic Music Interpretive Centre has become a major source of material for those researching the Celtic tradition and traditional music. The Archives is open for research

or for donation drop-offs between 10-4 p.m. Monday through Friday. If there is an area of interest that you wish to research, it is recommended that you call ahead to ensure that material you are interested in in available at the time you hope to visit.

Judique Dan was world champion wrestler Judique=s claim to fame isn=t wholly ingrained in its music. It is also the birthplace to a once-famous wrestler, Donald A. AJudique Dan@ MacDonald. A strong, likeable man, AJudique Dan@ fought in 945 professional matches during his colourful wrestling career and became the undefeated world middleweight champion on New Year=s Eve, 1912. The story of Judique Dan=s first unofficial fight is a tale of evening the score. His younger brother returned home from a New Brunswick lumber camp with a couple of black eyes and a battered nose and a variety of other injuries. When he heard that a bully from Bathurst had beaten his brother up, Dan left his supper of herring and potatoes and headed for New Brunswick. In the spring he returned 8-10 Mon. - Sat., 10:30 - 10 Sunday home happy and victorious, and soon began his professional career. A cairn is dedicated to Donald AJudique Dan@ MacDonald outside one of the Route #19, Judique, NS buildings in Judique.

Wayne’s Variety Tel. 787-3404


Full Convenience Postal Outlet NSLC Agency Store

Centre’s Exhibit Room is a stroll through history Inside the Celtic Music Interpretive Centre you will find the Tom Rankin Exhibit Room. In there, visitors can take an interactive journey through samples of song, stories, dance, bagpipes, and fiddle music and the story and the culture behind them. Try your hand at a tune, or better still, have a step on the old porch. It also houses some wonderful blown-up photographs and showcases are filled with interesting instruments and other memorabilia. This Exhibit room has been custom designed to get you “Tuned into Cape Breton Music.” The Exhibit Room is open daily from 9:00 a.m.- 5:00 p.m.

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

Judique on the Floor days ~ The village’s annual festival featuring a range of cultural events. Historically, the “Big Judiquers” have a reputation as great dancers and musicians. According to one story the Judiquers believed that because they had the best music in the world (and today, Judique native, Buddy MacMaster, is the undisputed dean of the Cape Breton fiddle), they also believed (and continue to believe?) they were the best dancers. It was their tradition to remove the bad dancers from the floor. If anyone objected there would come the cry, “Judique on the floor, who’d dare put her off?”

Monday, August 13

8:00 p.m. Centre




Thursday, Aug. 16

6:00 p.m.: Annual Amazing Race 9:00 p.m.- 1:00 a.m.: Pub & Music, Judique Fire Hall

Friday, Aug 17

9:00 p.m.-1 a.m.: Adult Dance, JRA Grounds.

Saturday, Aug. 18

9:00 a.m.: Cedric MacDonald Memorial Race (5M & 5K) Reg. 8am.

Page 19

Storytellers Gallery

Judique Fire Hall NOON: Annual Parade 1:00-3:00 p.m.: Canteen, BBQ, Concert, Inflatables for children of all ages, Children’s Games, Children’s Amazing Race, all held on JRA Grounds. 3:00-7:00 p.m.: Steak BBQ, Judique Fire Hall 9:00 p.m. - 1:00 a.m.: Adult Dance with Matt Minglewood, JRA Grounds.

Sunday, Aug 19

10:30 a.m.-12:30 p.m.: KOC Brunch, Judique Community Centre 2:00-5:00 p.m.: Kintyre Farm Outdoor Concert, Kintyre Farm.

- Judique - Where did the name come from? The origin of the name Judique is buried deep in past centuries, but three explanations of where the unique village name comes from have been passed down through the years. While the names of neighbouring communities are historically traceable, Judique poses quite another problem for historians. There are three different versions of how the name Judique came to be. The only similarity in the stories is that they all claim the name is of French origin. One story simply states that Judique means a Aswift stream forming eddies.@ The second version claims that Judique is a corruption of the name Judith and was so named by a French sea captain who was deeply affected by the Book of Judith while passing through the region on one of his voyages. The third tale claims that Judique is a melding of two French words, Ajouer@ meaning to play, and Adique@ meaning narrow passage. Judique received this name because the entrance to a small inlet near present-day Judique Station is known to have shifted from one end of the beach to another. Thus, the name Aplaying passage.@ Neighbouring communities may possess what sound like unfamiliar names but have more definitive historical connections. Creignish, north of Judique, is said to be named after a locale in Argyle, Scotland. In Creignish, take note of the whitewashed stone house on the hillside across from the water. It is one of the oldest stone houses on the island and the subject of a popular local poem, ACottage in Creignish.@ Creignish=s neighbour, Craigmore, means AGreat Rock,@ and takes its name from a hill in Perthshire, Scotland. The history of Scottish settlement permeates the communities along the southern end of the Ceilidh Trail (Route 19). The first settler in Judique was a Scottish poet and sea captain from South Uist, Scotland, Michael Mòr MacDonald, who spent the winter of 1775 in Judique, with only his musket and axe for company and protection. During that winter he saw the promise this new land held, as he wrote: “Fair is the place I have here by the sea,... We shall not be in want in spring” In the spring, a small group of his relatives and others began arriving here, making Judique one of the earliest Scottish settlements in Cape Breton. Since then, his relatives and many other Scots came to the Judique region, and what they once sparsely settled has become more modernly known from Troy to Judique as AFiddlers Mile,@ home of Cape Breton music legends such as Natalie MacMaster, Ashley MacIsaac, Wendy MacIsaac, and the island=s most honoured fiddler, Buddy MacMaster. Their brand of fiddling has helped shine an international spotlight on Cape Breton=s seemingly bottomless well of musical talent.

One of the attractions of interest to visitors in the Judique area is the Storytellers’ Gallery. The Gallery, established in a older building at the south end of Judique, has been created to preserve the storytelling tradition of the area, and while a firm schedule of events was not available at press time, the building will be open daily through July and August.

One event to watch for will be Sadie’s Storyfest, a weekend of tales, tall and often true, is held in honour of the late Sadie Poirier, one of the village’s gifted storytellers. Throughout the summer, the Gallery will feature Windows on the Past, an exhibit of photographs. Appointments to view the exhibit can also be made by phoning (902)-787-2022.

CHURCHES St. Andrew’s Roman Catholic 787-2795

Books worth reading Page 20

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

Worth reading

Inverness County abounds in talent as well as beauty, and while our musicians have filled the dance halls and airwaves with the melodic mastery, our authors have filled many pages with their entertaining observations, insights and stories. Below are just a few of the literary works that have earned local and/or international acclaim on a range of topics. Pick up one of your choice to enjoy while resting on a beach, in your cabin or motel room, or by lantern light in your tent. No Great Mischief - Alistair MacLeod (novel - McCelland and Stewart) Alistair MacLeod musters all of the skill and grace that have won him an international following to give us No Great Mischief, the story of a fiercely loyal family and the tradition that drives it. Light Lifting - Alexander MacLeod is a brilliant collection without a weak link. Steeped in the guts and sadness of life, it provides moments of pure literary transcendence. Don’t let it get overlooked. Quill & Quire A Possible Madness - Frank Macdonald (novel - Cape Breton University Press) A fictional story of a small Cape Breton town experiencing a post-industrial downturn in the economy, and the lengths some community leaders will go to in order to do what they feel is best for a town. T.R.’s Adventure at Angus the Wheeler’s - Frank MacdonaldIllustrator Virginia McCoy. Ten-year-old T.R. shares a secret with his bored brothers: elves and fairies occupy the garden of their neighbour. But all is not well in this secret garden; Guks have abducted a Princess. An epic battle and a happy ending. The Men’s Breakfast - A Ron Caplan Breton Books publication features19 short stories from a variety of island writers such as Frank Macdonald, Bill Conall, Dave Doucette, D. C. Troicuk, Tim Vassallo, Russell Colman, Victor Sakalauskas, Joyce Rankin, and Phonse Jessome, among others. There are also stand alone excerpts from novels-inprogress by Maureen Hull, Brian Tucker, and Stewart Donovan. The Cape Breton Fiddle: Making and Maintaining Tradition - Glenn Graham (cultural history - Cape Breton University Press) In The Cape Breton Fiddle, Glenn Graham, an accomplished Cape Breton fiddler, explores the roots of the Cape Breton fiddling tradition.

The Malagawatch Mice - Written and illustrated by Caroline Stellings (children’s story) When the Highland Village Museum adopted and moved Malagawatch Church across the Bras d’Or Lake in 2003, children’s authorillustrator Caroline Stellings asked herself: “What about the church mice?”The answer is an imaginative tale of The Malagawatch Mice. Why Men Lie - Deception circulates behind this sequel to MacIntyre’s Giller Prize-winning The Bishop’s Man, but in Why Men Lie the perspective is that of Effie Gillis, the bishop’s man’s sister. This last of MacIntyre’s Cape Breton trilogy unravels further the community and familial threads that weave the earlier narratives. Buddy MacMaster - The Judique Fiddler - Sheldon MacInnis (biography - Pottersfield Press) A thorough and laudatory biography of this master fiddler. Pit Talk - Ian McNeil - Is the Legacy of Cape Breton’s Coal Miners, a “grassroots tribute”, as he calls it, of stories, poems, photographs and other archival material celebrating the work and legacy of Cape Breton’s colliers. As a Bhràighe - Effie Rankin (Gaelic poetry - Cape Breton University Press) “The Mabou Bard Allan ‘The Ridge’ MacDonald - inspired by the language, music, legend and history of his birthplace in the Braes of Lochaber - expressed in Gaelic poetry those Scottish traditions, and the emigrant experience.” Famhair: agus dàin Ghàidhlig eile: Giant: and other Gaelic poems Lewis MacKinnon (Gaelic/English poetry - Cape Breton University Press) A Nova Scotia Gaelic book of contemporary poetry spanning the cultural landscapes of Gaelic Cape Breton, the eastern Nova Scotia mainland, the Halifax Gaelic community and the broader collective consciousness of Nova Scotians.

Canada’s Artist in WoolL’Artiste canadienne de la Laine - Elizabeth LeFort The story of LeFort’s remarkable talent for portraiture in wool follows her life and work as it finds its way into the White House, the Vatican and other prestigious collections. Her hooked rugs are on exhibit at the Elizabeth LeFort Gallery in Les Trois Pignons. Little Mosie from Margaree - Michael R. Welton (Thompson Educational Publishing) From the early 1930s, a movement for a people’s economy, named the “Antigonish Movement,” caught the imagination of the world. Its leader was Rev. Moses Coady. This comprehensive biography explores the man, his times, and the movement he created. The Antagonist-Lynn Coady’s The Antagonist was shortlisted for the Giller Prize in 2011 - It’s Rank trying to set the record straight. And turning himself inside out to do so reveals the life of Gordie Rankin Jr. in all its tenderness, sadness, hilarity, and absurdness. It’s all memorably delivered by Lynn’s skilful storytelling, witty turns of phrase, and eye for what really defines a life Father Jimmy - Jim Lotz and Michael R. Welton (biography/social justice - Breton Books) “Father Jimmy Tompkins - the brave, feisty spiritual father of the co-op movement in Nova Scotia - encouraged co-operation, selfreliance and self-education. Here his ideas live again - an inspiration and a tool for those who want to make a difference today.” Stories of Cape Breton with Jim St. Clair (audio CD Storytellers of Canada) Rich Cape Breton storytelling as this beloved historian brings alive the mystery and magic of a people’s lives and tales of ghosts. We Are the Dreamers – Poetry book by Rita Joe – Positive reflections of the the Mi’kmaq.

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

auld's cove Trans Canada Highway

St. Peters 9966 Grenville Street

Cheticamp On the Cabot Trail

Port Hawkesbury 2 Locations • Reeves Street (Corner of Pitt & Reeves St.) • Causeway Insurance Building

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Port Hood Page 22

July 9th is the annual Lobster Picnic

The annual Port Hood Lobster Picnic is a family affair that offers more than delicious lobster. It will be possible to take a boat or zodiac tour to Port Hood Island, or just sit back and listen to the ceilidh taking place on the stage of the arena grounds, all the while taking in beautiful scenery and stunning sunsets. While munching on delicious lobster burgers, the family can be fans of, or participants in, horseshoe tournaments, children’s games, artisans’ market and of course our beer gardens. A day designed for all ages! The picnic will officially open at 1 p.m. with live music. The beer gardens and ceilidh will remain open until 10 p.m.

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

Port Hood Harbour: site of historic confrontation over US, British flags Port Hood, shire town of Inverness County, is located along the shore of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and that ocean atmosphere permeates the small village. Throughout the summer the sandy shorelines, with five stunning beaches, one of which offers lifeguard services through July and August, give residents and visitors alike a refreshing swim. But Port Hood’s beaches are just the beginning of a memorable discovery of this historic village where, during the mid-1800s, hundreds of ships plied their trade in and out of the harbour. Historian John L. MacDougall in his 1921 History of Inverness County tells readers, A Fiftyfive years ago, this writer remembers counting two hundred sail of the fine American and Maritime fishing fleet, riding restfully at anchor in the harbour at Port Hood. It may be of interest to American visitors to learn that during this period so many American ships were

Hillcrest Hall Country Inn

~ A Smoke-free Inn ~

The elegant Queen Anne-Revival home has been completely restored to offer fine accommodation and dining. All rooms and suites have full private bath and colour cable TV and Overlooking our celebrated air conditioning beaches and islands, the inn PO Box 149, Port Hood, Nova Scotia B0E 2W0 is the ideal base from which to explore all the area has to offer Tel. (902) 787-2211 ~ summer festivals, hiking trails, Celtic music & dance, Reservations: (888) 434-Hall birding, ocean swimming, and Port Hood, Cape Breton, NS so much more.

Port Hood Complete line of Groceries & Hardware Open 7 days a week Monday-Wednesday 8-6 pm ... Thursday & Friday 8-8 pm Saturday 8-5 pm ... Sunday 10:30 to 5 pm

Everyone Welcome ! 902-787-3311

trading at Port Hood that one merchant violated the protocol regarding national flags, running the Stars and Stripes above that of the then governing nation’s flag, the British Union Jack. The British Navy needed to send a warship in to enforce the proper protocol. That once vibrant harbour vanished with the erosion of a neck of land that linked the mainland village to what is now Port Hood Island, just offshore.


While shipping may have declined, the fisheries thrived, and today, at Murphy’s Pond, during lobster season a fleet of local boats land catches daily. During the summer months, crab fishermen land their quotas daily on Murphy’s Wharf, and later in the season when the tuna are running, tuna fleets bring in many of the large fish, most destined for the Japanese market.

Hebridean Motel

Port Hood ~ Nova Scotia ~

Clean, quiet and comfortable rooms all with CBTV and air conditioning. Minutes to sandy beaches, boardwalks, and other area attractions. 16 non-smoking units, two housekeeping suites with patios, in room coffee service.

Open year-round Celebrating 41 years in business

39 Company Road (Off route 19) PO Box 149, Port Hood, NS B0E 2W0 Tel. (902) 787-3214

The Admiral Lounge

Open Daily 11 am - 12 pm Grill Hours 11 am - 7 pm

787-3493 Main St., Port Hood

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

Basking on the beaches all summer long

The miles of sandy beaches of which Port Hood boasts, including the boast that its water is the warmest north of Florida (a claim made by many other western Cape Breton beaches, and they are all, by the way), is an ideal way to watch part of the summer drift pass while waiting for the next exciting thing to take place in Port Hood.

Sunset Sands RV Park offers rest, relaxation, or lots to do The community-owned Sunset Sands RV Park across from the Al MacInnis Sports Centre, the heart of summer activities in the village, and next door to a beautiful beach is just a comfortable chair away from a beautiful sunset, and a swimming pool for parents wanting to keep a closer eye on their children. The RV park has 55 fullservice sites with 50 and 30 amps

of power, satellite TV, and free wi-fi wireless internet access. It also offers 20 tenting sites and is open May 15th to October 19th. Rental RVs are available with seasonal and monthly rates. From mid-June to mid-September, guests have complimentary use of a pool complex across the road (Wharf Road), which has adult and children’s saltwater pools and a large hot tub.

Page 23

Port Hood’s annual Triathlon ~ August 12 A popular summer event for local and visiting athletes is the Port H o o d Triathlon, held this summer on August 12th. The triathlon, which includes swimming, cycling and running, is divided into two events, the Sprint and the Olympic challenge. In the Sprint, participants will swim 750m, bike for 20K and run for 5K. In the Olympic version of the same competition, athletes will swim 1.5 kilometres, bicycle for 20K, and run for 10K. This is an Atlantic Chip Timed Event. Participants can register online by visiting: www. On August 11th, the day preceding the Port Hood Triathlon, the village hosts its annual Kids of Steel competition, also a popular event.

Sunset Sands RV Park Just off Route #19 in the village of Port Hood


Make your reservation today!

• Fire Pits • Fitness Centre • Unserviced Tent sites • Hiking / Biking Trails and s t e ns • High Speed Internet bility w w a e at vail • Washrooms nlin site a kings. o s o ate tu • Laundromat Visi p-to-d nline bo u o r fo and • Showers map • Swimming Pool • Hot Tub • Picnic Tables

Toll free 1-888-855-7263

55 fully serviced Sites 30 & 50 AMP Hook-ups

PO Box 119, 45 Wharf Road Port Hood, NS, B0E 2W0 Tel. 787-2207 Fax: 902-787-2057

Page 24

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

Lots of lobsters, but not Port Hood’s best-known export! Teeming with athletic and artistic talent! Al MacInnis

Port Hood is the birthplace of National Hockey League Hall of Famer Al MacInnis. That Lobster Supper mentioned above will be held in the Al MacInnis Sports Centre, commemorat-

Bruce Beaton

ing the famous native son whose 20 plus years as an out standing defenceman with the Calgary Flames and the St. Louis Blues, add up to one of the most memorable careers in the sport of hockey: seven times chosen the NHL’s hardest shot; won the Stanley Cup with the Calgary Flames 1989, winning the Conn Smythe Trophy as the playoff’s MVP; was the 1999 Norris Trophy winner as best defenceman; chosen to eight All Star Games; and was inducted into the Hall of Fame in 2007. While MacInnis was

John Allan Cameron

Mitch MacDonald

Tu r n - o f - t h e - 2 0 t h - c e n t u r y athlete Silver Medal Olympian Duncan Gillis carries Canada’s standard during the 1912 Summer Olympics.

Lynn Chisholm

tearing up the NHL ice, another Port Hood native was earning Grey Cup rings for his football ability. Bruce Beaton played 13 years in the Canadian Football League. A product of Acadia University, Beaton was drafted by B.C. in 1991. He was traded to Ottawa and spent two seasons with the Rough Riders. He spent one season in Calgary (1995) before moving on to Montreal where he was a CFL East all-star in 96 and 97. Signed as a free agent in 1998, Beaton never missed a game in seven seasons with Edmonton; and in 2002 he was the West Division finalist for the CFL’s outstanding lineman award. He won two CFL championships with the Edmonton Eskimos and a place on the CFL All-Star Team three times. Yet, almost a century before MacInnis and Beaton, another Port Hooder brought hon-

our to the village. In 1912, Duncan Gillis of Port Hood carried the Canadian standard in front of the Canadian contingent at those summer games in Stockholm, Sweden. He competed in both the hammer throw and the discus. With a discus throw of 48’ 39”, he earned a Silver medal for Canada. But among those who didn’t go away to play sports were those who stayed around home picking up the musical tradition of the region. Most notably, was the late John Allan Cameron, the man christened the Godfather of Celtic Music, whose energetic brand of music made him the first Cape Breton troubadour to capture an international audience for the Island=s music. Playing the Celtic guitar and possessing a compelling stage presence and amazing storytelling talent, John Allan opened the way

Local flavour, with a twist ! Weekly entertainment, jam sessions, deck overlooking the ocean and port hood island, fully licensed Hours: Sun.-Thurs. 11:30 am-10 pm ... Fri. & Sat. 11:30 am-1 am 8790 Highway #19 Port Hood

A Beautiful West Coast Drive !

Four Mermaids Gifts Souvenirs, Housewares, Handmade products from Cape Breton and the Maritimes Sunday 12 pm-5 pm Mon-Sat 9 am-5 pm

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012 for many musicians from Cape Breton who would follow him across the Canso Causeway and into the hearts of fans worldwide. At his peak, he hosted television shows, toured extensively, earned a standing ovation (and very rare encore) at the Old Ryman Hall in Nashville, and recorded 11 albums. He passed away too soon in 2006 at the age of 68. But the Port Hood tradition continues in the presence of Mitch MacDonald, Canadian Idol runner-up in 2008, the last year the Idol show aired. The popular singer has been enjoying a growing career since his 2008 exposure through the highly-rated television program, but as he never tired of telling television judges and audiences, he is never far from home, not in his heart, and when the opportunity offers, not when he can be close enough to enjoy his mother=s cooking. So don=t be surprised or shy if you happen upon a AMitch@ concert. Recording artist Lynn Chisholm is a country singing voice that’s worth hearing if the opportunity presents itself.

Page 25

Port Hood Day Park offers rest, recreation

The Port Hood Day Park may be a welcome opportunity to relax or to explore the bordering shore. Located just as you arrive at Port Hood, the day park gives visitors a chance to rest while taking in the beauty of the setting which includes a fine view of Port Hood Island across the natural harbour between the park and island. The day park is furnished with covered picnic tables for eating, studying maps or just staring around. From the edge of the day park, too, a long, interesting boardwalk spreads across the sensitive dunes,

providing a chance to stretch one’s legs or use one’s camera (or cell phone or Blackberry or other recording devices). The park borders and offers easy access to a sandy beach. At sunset it is one of many wonderful places to watch the sun sink in glorious colours behind the darkening mass of Port Hood Island. Erected at the park is a large memorial to the coal miners who have been killed in the Port Hood mines when those mines formed the economic backbone of the village.

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Page 26

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

Chestico Days, July 31st August 5th, are fun-filled and sun-filled, with music and food Tues., July 31 8 a.m. Chestico Days Golf Tournament at the Antigonish Golf & Country Club. 6:30 p.m.: Cemetery Mass at St. Peter’s Parish. 8:00 .p.m – 10:30 p.m.: Junior High Dance (Grade 6, 7, 8) at Al MacInnis Sports Centre (mezzanine level). Wed., Aug. 1 12:00 p.m. Sand Sculpture Competition at the Court House Beach. BBQ & Prizes for 1st, 2nd, 3rd. • 7:00 p.m.: Family Ceilidh with lunch at the Al MacInnis Sports Centre. Introduction of the Miss Chestico Days 2012 princesses. Admission charged. Thurs., Aug. 2

4:00 p.m.: Lobster Supper (Market Lobsters) at Al MacInnis Sports Centre. $20.00 for a lobster meal. Hot dogs available for children (free for children when adult meal is purchased). • 7:00 p.m. Ceilidh at the Chestico Museum. Tea & light lunch will be served. Admission – $5.00. Children 12 & under are admitted free. • 9:00 p.m.: Poker Night at the Al MacInnis Sports Centre (mezzanine level).

TENTATIVE check for

event – confirmation.

by Strait Area Transit. Call 787 3210 for more details.

• 2:00 p.m.: Chestico Teddy Bear Picnic. Children’s Sing-Song with Lynn Chisholm, games, story time & a visit from Daisy the Cow. Sponsored in part by Scotsburn Dairy. Admission – $3.00 each or $10.00 per family. BRING YOUR FAVOURITE TEDDY BEAR or TOY! • 2:00 p.m. – 4:00 p.m.: Entertainment & Hot Dog BBQ at the Port Hood Coop Parking Lot. Hot Dogs – $2.00. Pop/Water – $1.50. Sponsored by Port Hood Co-op & Chestico Museum. • 6:00 p.m.: Harness Racing at the Port Hood Race Track, Glencoe Station Road. Beer Garden, Entertainment & BBQ. Bounce for Cash. $500 prize for each race. • 9:00 p.m. – 1:00 a.m. Crowning of Miss Chestico Days 2012 followed by Adult Dance with “Matt Anderson” at Al MacInnis Sports Centre. Happy Hour from 9 pm to 10 pm. Admission – $15.00. 19 plus – ID’s will be requested. Free Shuttle Service to & from provided

Sat., Aug. 4• 9:00 a.m.: Alfred Reynolds Road Race & Family Fun Run/Walk (All Ages) – Registration from 8:00 a.m. – 9:00 a.m. @ Port Hood Fire Hall. Fee is $5.00 for Road Race (5 Mile) & $2.00 for Family Fun Run/Walk (2KM) • 9:00 a.m. Pancake Breakfast hosted by the St. Stephen’s United Church. • 11:00 a.m.: Street Parade – Starting at Bayview Education Centre to High Road to Main St to Al MacInnis Sports Centre Grounds. • 12:00 p.m. – 4:00 p.m.: Al MacInnis Sports Centre Grounds – Family Entertainment: Bounce-ARamas, Chocolate Wheel, Crown & Anchor, Fish Pond, BBQ, & Much More! • 12:00 p.m. – 2:30 p.m.: Chicken BBQ Dinner at the Port Hood Fire Hall. Hot Dogs also available for children. • 12:00 p.m. – 3:00 p.m.: Food & Craft Showcase at the Al MacInnis Sports Centre (Mezzanine level). • 12:30 p.m.: 29th Annual Stepdancing Festival and

Fri., Aug. 3

Concert on Al MacInnis Sports Centre Grounds, featuring step dancers, cloggers, fiddlers, and lots of great local talent. Admission charged. 1:00 p.m. – 6:00 p.m.: Beer Gardens & Entertainment on Al MacInnis Sports Centre Grounds. Entertainment starts at 3:00 p.m. • 9:00 p.m. – 2:00 a.m. Adult Dance with “The Eddie Cummings Band” at Al MacInnis Sports Centre. Happy Hour from 9:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m.. Admission charged. 19 plus – ID’s will be requested.

Sun., Aug. 5 1:00 p.m.: Chestico Boat Parade – prizes for 1st, 2nd, 3rd. Come watch the parade of boats from the Old Government Wharf/Wharf Beach. 7:00 p.m. – 11:00 p.m.: Outdoor Concert featuring The Fourth Well. $10.00 per person. All Ages Show. Beer Garden open to those 19 plus. Watch the fireworks from the concert! • 9:30 p.m. (Dusk): Fireworks Show at the Old Government Wharf. Sponsored by Knights of Columbus.

Home Owners helping homeowners

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Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

Port Hood’s Chestico Museum features coal mining, early 19th Century photography exhibits Port Hood’s Chestico Museum this summer is highlighting for visitors two exhibitions that portray important aspects of the community’s, and Inverness County’s, development.

Through July, the museum will feature photographs, artifacts and displays telling the story of Port Hood’s coal mining history. The village, more than two and a quarter centuries old, has played an important role in the coal mining history of western Cape Breton, sharing in its prosperity and its tragedies. This informative exhibition will give museum visitors a candid glimpse of one of Cape Breton’s cornerstone industries. Through the month of August, Chestico Museum will feature a collection of early 20th century photographs by Ernest Hatt. Hatt lived in Inverness County for more than a decade in the early years of

Page 27

Chestico Museum


photography and travelled throughout the west coast of Cape Breton documenting people’s lives at work, at school or family groups and portraits. After leaving the area, he returned regularly so that Hatt’s photographs range from 1910 through to the 1940s. Enjoyable for the lives and era they depict, the photographs are of an enduring quality that will interest all viewers.

Thursday night ceilidhs at Chestico On Thursday evenings from 7-8 p.m. there will be a Ceilidh held at Port Hood’s Chestico Museum. The ceilidhs offer visitors and residents an evening of fine music performed by local and visiting artists. Admission is $5 adult, $3 children.

Monday to Saturday 9 - 5, Sunday 1 - 4:30 and Monday evening 6:30 - 9:00. Phone 787-2244. Admission FREE! Donation Welcomed!

CHURCHES St. Peter’s Roman Catholic 787-3317 St. Stephen’s United 787-2323 Jubilee United Port Hood Island (summer only) 787-2323

Ceilidh Cottages • • • • •

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1425 New Rocky Ridge Road West Mabou, Cape Breton Island Nova Scotia Canada, B0E 1X0

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Mabou Page 28

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

Mabou ~ Gaelic culture and Cape Breton music fill the air The village of Mabou is at the heart of a network of rural communities rich in the Gaelic tradition. For generations names such as Beaton, Rankin or MacDonald have been synonymous with a music tradition that echos back to its roots in the Highlands of Scotland while shaping itself through the generations into a distinct and celebrated sound now identified around the world Cape Breton music. It is not only the sound of the fiddle and the feet dancing to that fiddle that pays homage to the ancient tradition of the Gaels. The Gaelic tongue, too, thrives in Mabou where for the past thirty years the language has been on the school curriculum, and local organization, Feis Mhabu, has mounted a heroic effort to salvage the language and the tradition with increasingly successful results.

Ceilidh on the Wharf Sunday, August 12 Located at Mabou Coal Mines Take the Mabou Harbour Road off of Highway 19 in Mabou and follow the signs. Fun for the whole family. Runs from 1 to 4pm. Lots of local talent and musical entertainment, boat rides, and beautiful scenery.

There’s more to Mabou than Mabou Within a few kilometres of the village of Mabou is a network of cousin communities including Mabou Harbour, Mabou Coal Mines, West Mabou, the Glencoes, each of which offers its own special delights. Whether you enjoy swimming or square dancing at West Mabou, hiking through the stunning beauty of Mabou Harbour or Mabou Coal Mines where a maze of trails can lead you high into the Mabou Highlands, or square dancing at Glencoe Mills, there are many reasons to stop and stay. Mabou’s soundtrack may be the fiddle or the songs of its most famous family, The Rankins, but the village’s setting is in itself a delight to view or to explore, picturesque and photogenic. Surrounded by hills and a river(which is actually an inlet from the Northumberland Strait), this beautiful village was first inhabited by the Mi’kmaq. The Mikmaq word for Mabou is Madawak, meaning “where two or more rivers meet and flow into a larger river.”

Mabou Freshmart Full Service Grocery Store

Tuesday Night Ceilidhs NSLC Agency Outlet

A weekly summer ceilidh is held each Tuesday evening in the Mabou Community Hall on the village’s main street, giving residents and visitors an opportunity to hear some excellent musicians perform.

Ample Parking

• Produce • Meats • Propane • soft Ice Cream • ICE • Groceries • Movie Rentals • Greeting Cards • Magazines • Novels • Lotto Tickets

Main St., Mabou 945-2084

Ann Schroeder Studio Fine art quilts Hand-painted scarves Fabric dyeing workshops 1422 Mabou Harbour Rd., 945-2744

Mabou area churches St. Mary’s Catholic (945-2952) Mother of Sorrows Shrine (945-2221) St. Joseph’s Catholic (Glencoe) (945-2063) St. John the Baptist Catholic (Brook Village) (945-2063)

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

Family square dances are an experience for visitors Before we leave you to explore the Mabou region, it bears pointing out that within a few miles of the village there are two weekly family dances where children are as welcome as their parents. Each Thursday night through the summer months, the dance hall at Glencoe Mills opens the door of its former one-room schoolhouse with an invitation to come in and dance. Square dance fans have come from across the continent and across the Atlantic to dance on the floor of this famous converted schoolhouse. In West Mabou on a Saturday night in February, a local dancer chose a partner who happened to be there from Philadelphia. While visitors to the year-round West Mabou square dances are familiar enough in summer, not a lot of tourists are found roaming the area in midwinter. Asked about it, she replied that she just “needed to get her West Mabou fix” and flew into Halifax, rented a car, drove to Mabou and would be leaving the next morning to return home in time for work on Monday. West Mabou, too, is a family dance where the generations mingle and dance together to the same fiddler. Either dance, Glencoe or West Mabou, will be offering music by one of Cape Breton’s best fiddlers. Natalie MacMaster could turn up unexpectedly, as could Ashley MacIsaac, but the steady fare includes notable musicians such as Howie MacDonald, Richard Wood, Kinnon and Betty Beaton, Rodney MacDonald, Glenn Graham, Ian MacDougall and a list that goes on and on. The neighbouring community of Brook Village also holds square dances throughout the summer on Monday nights.

Rankin Home Check Peace of mind for the absentee homeowner

Rankin Home Check will arrange to visit your vacant home on a weekly or bi-weekly basis, providing you with digital images and a written report on each visit. Contact Jack or Lynnette at 902-258-5494 Email:


Mon-SAt 7-3 Sunday 9-3

Page 29

Mabou Ceilidh Days July 18-22 Wednesday, July 18th

DUSK Outdoor Family Movie (weather permitting), or if inclement weather the film will be shown at the Mabou Athletic Centre.

Thursday, July 19th

3:00-7:00 - A Ball Hockey Tournament at the Mabou Athletic Centre. 9:30-Midnight - Teen Dance with DJ at the Mabou Athletic Centre.

Friday, July 20st

6:00 p.m. - Boat Parade from Mabou Harbour to the Bridge in Mabou. 7:00 p.m. - Ecumenical Service at the Mabou Marina. 9:00 - Midnight - It will be Pub Night on the Waterfront, music by Eddie Cummings.

Saturday, July 21st

8:00 a.m. - Registration for the Hugh Arnold Campbell Road Race. (10K, 5K and Fun Run)

9:00 a.m. - Hugh Arnold Campbell Road Race begins. NOON Ceilidh parade held through the village come rain or shine. 1:00 p.m. - Games, Outdoor Gala Concert, Canteen, Craft Market, Tea, the 30th Anniversary Milling Frolic, Beer Gardens, Bingo, BBQ, on the grounds at Dalbrea. 10:00 p.m.- 2:00 a.m. Adult Dance at the Mabou Athletic Centre.

Sunday, July 22nd

11:00 a.m. - Pioneer Mass at St. Mary’s Parish Cemetery. 11:00 a.m.-2 p.m. - Farmers’ Market at Mabou Athletic Centre. 12:00-2:00 p.m. - Roast Beef Dinner at the Mabou Community Hall. 1:30 - Lucky Duck Race from David MacMillan’s Farm in Glendyer to the Mabou Bridge. 3:00 p.m. - Anything You Can Float Race at the Mabou Marina. 8:00 p.m. - Mabou concert

Mabou River Inn

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Page 30

The Red Shoe Pub Few businesses have become national institutions as quickly as The Red Shoe Pub. In its first year of operation it earned a twopage spread in McLean’s Magazine, a sidebar to a feature on the great and good things happening with music in Cape Breton. Now owned by sister’s Genevieve, Raylene, Heather and Cookie of The Rankins, the nationally acclaimed pub is a source of food for body and soul through its menu and its musical offerings. Throughout the summer and fall months, the pub offers lots of fine music, including a fiddlers’ matinee everySunday afternoon.

Cookie, Raylene & Heather Rankin at the Red Shoe, owned by the sisters.

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

Farmers Market offers fresh produce, fine crafts, friendly atmosphere The Mabou Farmers Market began in 2007 with just nine vendors and has grown to more than 24 vendors on Sunday mornings at the Mabou Arena where its hours of operation are from 11 a.m. - 2 p.m. The Mabou market places a strong emphasis on local fresh produce and homemade jams, jellies, baking, vinegars, and herbs. Here you can find free-range chicken, lamb, pork and eggs, seasonal vegetables, jams and jellies, Cape Breton honey, Nova Scotia wines and beer, jewellery, soaps and lotions, wooden bowls and spoons, weaving, knitting, dyed fabrics, and home baking. There’s free-trade coffee, tea, or espresso, sweets, sausage or donair sandwiches, and tables to enjoy your lunch. Vendors are happy to discuss the finer points of their crafts, to suggest a way to grow or prepare an unusual vegetable or which wine goes best with which dish. “We want people to see what can be grown here in Nova Scotia,” says Suzanne Craig, a market founder. “We’re encouraging them to grow their own gardens as well.” This market works to maintain a balance weighted towards agriculture rather than crafts, although it welcomes both. The Mabou Farmers Market operates from early June through October at the Mabou Arena. After the ice goes down in the arena, the market moves to its fall location – last year, to Dalbrae High School.

The Red Shoe Pub Main St., Mabou, CB Email:

Jewelry ~ Gifts Home Decor ~ Music

Inspired by nature... Located on Route 19 In picturesque Mabou Patti Millet, owner/operator

Ph/Fax 902-945-2414 11354 Route 19, Box 51 Mabou, Cape Breton, NS, B0E 1X0

Handwoven Handspun Yarn , Knitwear , Blankets

Open Daily 9-5 pm

Leather Products


Brook Village

Grocery Ltd. 945-2757 ~ Groceries ~ Meats & Fish Selected Hardware ~ Dairy Products (incl. Cdn. & Dutch Cheese) ~ Motor Oil ~ Work Clothes ~ Cat/Dog food ~ Purina Feed ~ All-Occasion Cards ~ Ice cream & ice ~

A great place to kick up your heels.


Drop in to an old-fashioned corner store ... independently owned and operated

On scenic highway 252 between Mabou & Whycocomagh

Weekly entertainment & food specials Tel. 945-2326 Fax 945-2552 Restaurant/Bar 945- 2996

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

Mother of Sorrows A Place for Quiet Reflection Nearby, on the road to Mabou Ridge (ask anyone), is the Mother of Sorrows Pioneer Shrine. Tourists come from far and near to visit this tiny shrine which was originally built as a church at Indian Point, three miles from its present site. Through time the church fell into disuse, and in 1967 it was moved to its present location where it became a shrine operated by the Brothers of Our Lady, a Catholic order from Holland. The Mother of Sorrows Shrine is open to visitors 24 hours a day, seven days a week, and during business hours there is also an adjacent gift shop.

The Mother of Sorrows Pioneer Shrine

A Tribute To The Last Waltz Tues., July 31st & Wed., August 1st Back by popular demand! Showtime: 7:30 pm

Page 31

An Drochaid - Bridge Across Time -

The recently renovated local museum, An Drochaid or Bridge Museum, operated by the Mabou Gaelic and Historical Society, is an active centre, and “bridge” is an aptly chosen name, bridging as it does the past and the present, presenting the vibrancy of the former through narrations and talents of the latter. A visitor to the museum will see a locally made quilt, the work of several women, called “Memories of Mabou” because it depicts the industries of the area in past years and in the present. One should also see the pieces of woven material from the Glendyer Woolen Mills, which were established in 1848 a few miles outside the village. Several music and Gaelic language activities also take place at An Drochaid.

sing some of the favourite songs from Cape Breton, including: Fare Thee Well Love, There was an Old Woman From Mabou, and Getting Dark Again.

a tribute to

Replay the Beatles River Hill Players and Saturday September 22 Strathspey Place are proud to present “A Tribute To The For all the Beatles fans out there, Last Waltz” for two nights! Rock n’ roll fans may find Strathspey Place has something for you! River Hill Players Strathspey Place it hard to believe that 2011 Relive the magic of Sgt. Pepper, was the 35th anniversary Magical Mystery Tour, The White of one of the most famous Album, Abbey concerts in the history of the Road, and Let genre. It Be, performed exactly like ... Musicians will be dressed and styled to resemble presented by

in partnership with

the original performers, and will be recreating the feel of the original concert as closely as possible.

You don’t want to miss this! John Archie and Nellie Fri., Aug. 24th & Sat., Aug.25th Back by popular demand! Showtime: 8:00 pm

John Archie and Nellie and the crew are going to head to the square dance at Glencoe Mills one more time! Join them at the dance, as they deal with the reality of a small community and

The Beatles!

The Barra MacNeils Friday, September 28

The Barra MacNeils live in concert bring so much more to the stage than most acts ever can. Multiple lead vocalists, beautiful sibling harmonies, top drawer instrumental prowess on a wide variety of acoustic, stringed, percussion and wind instruments blended with dancing, storytelling, Gaelic songs and a journey through an ancient culture—it is family entertainment at its highest level.

11156 Route #19 Mabou, NS B0E 1X0

Ph. 945-5300 Fax: 945-5301

Box Office Hours

Monday 1-5 pm Tuesday 1-5 pm W e d nes day 1-6 pm Thursday 1-6 pm 1-4 pm Friday


Box Office


Supported by

Page 32 Lake Ainslie Firemen’s Ceilidh Days July 2 - July 7 ~ Celebrating 40 years ~

Monday, July 2nd Open House - at the fire hall A light lunch and pictorial walk including the display of its present equipmment.

Tuesday, July 3rd Square Dance - Kinnon and Betty Beaton at the fire hall.

Wednesday, July 4th Merchandise Bingo.

Thursday, July 5th Pub Night - entertainment -River Hill Players.

Lake Ainslie: Scotsville School of Crafts keeps traditions alive Lake Ainslie is home to a thriving tradition in the heritage arts, and few places showcase those skills as freshly as the Lake Ainslie Weavers and Craft Guild. Active since 1985, this dedicated group of individuals have brought the once threatened cultural art of weaving to a living craft carried out by its members in their centre at Scotsville. The Scotsville School of Crafts, a former community school closed during a wave of rural

Friday, July 6th Maragh & Ham Dinner Scotsville Hall

Saturday, July 7th Scotsville fire brigade 40th Anniversary Parade beginning at noon. Route - Scotsville School of Crafts to the Scotsville fire

Games, Barbecue and, of course, visiting sessions with old friends or new visitors.


The Lake Ainslie Weavers & Craft Guild invite you to visit the

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

amalgamations, is once again at the heart of community activities. While the weavers who sit at the looms most often reproduce ancestral plaids and tartans of the Highlands clans, the weavers themselves are not lost in the past. From this creative centre new designs for tartans celebrating Inverness County and Lake Ainslie itself have been registered. Since 1990 the guild has turned the school into a vital, community-based, learning and cultural centre known as the Scotsville School of Crafts. During the spring and fall the organization offers a broad range of courses. During the summer months, the Scotsville School of Crafts is staffed and open to the public. This summer the school will be offering a wide range of workshops in arts, crafts and cultural traditions.

Lake Ainslie Heritage Tartan BLUE for the water, the sky above and the blueberries that grow. WHITE for the cross of St. Andrew, the Barite and the snow. GOLD for the clean sandy beaches and the rising of the sun. RED for the beautiful sunsets which are second to none. GREEN for the mountains, spruce and pine, as proud and tall they stand. And the grass that blows in the wind like waves upon the land. When settlers came from Europe’s shores so many years ago,They brought with them a pride and strength that’s not seen anymore. They faced the harsh cold winter storms, had many hungry days. They lived by Faith and Fear of God and strict religious ways.This TARTAN, that we weave today, pays tribute to the old, The flag they left, the shores they found, this HERITAGE is told. Composed in 1985 by Vincent Smith, Allan MacMillan and Verna MacMillan. Designed by Verna MacMillan and registered at the ScottishTartans Society, in Comrie, Scotland, in1985 on the occasion of Cape Breton’s Bicentennial

~ Ainslie The West Lake Wayside Chapel

& C@psite Open

Tuesday - Saturday 10am - 5pm

In Scotsville, NS



Family Cottages Open May 15-October 15

We invite you to join our friendly worship service each Sabbath (Saturday) 2:30 p.m.

Sat., Oct. 6:

1- 4p.m. Basket Weaving demonstration with Diane MacEachern. (Donations accepted.) 7:00 p.m. - Official opening of Lakeside Impressions, a unique art and craft exhibition, with wine and cheese, and classical guitar. Exhibit available for viewing all week from 1-4.

Sun., Oct. 7:

1 p.m.- The Story of the Titanic by Veronica Shields. Fee is $5. 1-4 p.m. - Bobbin Lace Making demonstration with Suzanne Craig. (Donations accepted.)

Mon, Oct 8: 1-4 p.m. - Sock

Knitting Machine demonstration by Eileen MacNeil. (Donations accepted.)

Tues, Oct 9: 1-4 p.m. Weaving demonstration by Verna MacMillan. She invites you to come and try your hand at the shuttle. (Donations accepted.) Wed., Oct. 10:

10 a.m. - Noon: A Celtic Walk along the South West branch of the Margaree River, a Canadian Heritage River. Gaelic singers and storytellers Geoffrey May and Rebecca-Lynne MacDonaldMay will share local compositions, humorous stories and history. Noon: Enjoy a hot and hearty lunch with special guests, Angus and Carmelita MacIsaac, parents of fiddle great, Ashley MacIsaac. (Fee is $10.) 1-4 p.m. Square Dancing Lessons with an onsite fiddler, and with Alice Freeman to teach a few steps and how to put them into practice. (Fee $20.)

Thurs., Oct 11: 1:00 p.m.

The Craft Centre offers a Milling Frolic. Come and discover how much fun a wet blanket can be! (Fee: $5) 1-4 p.m. There will be knitting machine demonstration with Liz Smith.

Fri., Oct 12: 1-4 p.m. There will be a Watercolour Workshop with Lake Ainslie artist Barrie Fraser. 1-4 p.m. There will be a Locker Rug Hooking demonstration by Cate Lake-Thompson. (No fee. Donations accepted.) Sat., Oct 13:

SEE Exodus 20:8-11

Everyone Welcome No collection or offering 3669 West Lake Ainslie Rd. Inverness NS B0E 1N0 Tel/Fax: 902-258-3817

Lakeside Impressions offers plenty during Celtic Colours

1792 West Lake Ainslie 902-258-3764

1-4 p.m. A Weaving Demonstration by Elaine Panuska. Try your hand at the shuttle. (Donations accepted.) 1-4 p.m. The Closing Day of Lakeside Impressions.

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

A burst of crimson beauty at Glenora.

Stroll among the beautiful gardens.

The Glenora Inn & Distillery Home of Glen Breton Rare ~ North America’s 1st Single Malt Whisky

Page 33

Rolling out the barrels of fun.

The Glen Breton Toast So the word is now out for all to see A single malt from this side of the sea A lowland taste, or a highland smile, or the tang of the sea, Like a malt from the Isle These secrets reside in the walls of the cask, And those bouquets and flavours are with us at last. Ten years in a complex of oak and of smoke, Now we reach for the glass,For the cask has awoke And we’ll toast with Glen Breton, With more than a dram, For the dream of Glenora has captured our land From the shores of Cape Breton to our mountainous west Canadians now toast with their very own best Glen Breton By Bryan Finlay

Nestled at the foot of the Mabou Highlands is the Glenora Distillery, a single malt whisky distillery. The distillery offers tours, as well as providing accommodations and fine dining. It is also a popular location for catching some of the County's traditional musicians.

Glenora Inn &

Home of

Glen Breton Rare


Canada’s Single Malt Whisky ~ FREE Entertainment ~ 1-3 pm and 8-10 pm

An Amazing Cape Breton Get-away

Single Malt Distillery

Tour our unique distillery and Economuseum where you can learn the ancient art of distilling whisky and also sample the product.

Guided tours daily 9:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. Large tours and bus groups by appointment.

Gift Shop - 7:00 a.m. - 7:00 p.m.

Fine Dining and Accommodations There is something on the menu to satisfy everyone’s palate served in a bright, intimate dining room or outdoor terrace setting. Nine rooms and six chalets with jacuzzis. Rated in “Where to eat in Canada.”

Glenora Pub ... Entertainment daily and nightly and wonderful pub menu. Located on Route 19 between Inverness and Mabou, Cape Breton

We accept bookings for meetings and gatherings in our whisky warehouse hall.

Glenora Inn & Distillery E-mail: Fax: 902-258-3572

Tel: 902-258-2662 Toll Free: 1-800-839-0491

Page 34

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

Respect for the past evident at MacDonald House Museum

The interior of the barn at MacDonald House Museum is one of the many attractions to interest visitors. Respect for the past is evident in the historic preservation that can be found in the exhibits at the MacDonald House Museum at East Lake Ainslie, just a few lakeshore miles up from the crafts school. Alexander MacDonald, a weaver, left the Isle of Mull in Scotland and settled in East Lake Ainslie in 1823. The original land grant totalled 518

acres. The present house over the years was home to generations of successful family members, housing, along with the family, a store and a post office. The MacDonald homestead was of great importance to the local community in providing news, staples of life and a means for farmers to sell their goods to the growing population of eastern Canada. In the later

Tulloch Inn & Gifts 2795 West Lake Ainslie Rd., ~ Overlooking beautiful Lake Ainslie ~ OPen Year Round Telephone 258-3194

years of the 20th century the family donated the 150-yearold house to the Lake Ainslie Historical Society. Since acquiring the historic building, the society has expanded its historic holdings to include a barn filled with traditional farm equipment, a one-room schoolhouse and other attractions to interest local students and visitors. The MacDonald House Museum remembers, for present and future generations, that between the years 1820-26 the area was mainly settled by Highland Scots. The first two settlers on record were Neil MacKinnon and Duncan Robertson. In these early days, home fires had to be kept burning continuously throughout the winter. Somehow, Neil MacKinnon’s fire went out. He knew that

Duncan Robertson lived a few miles south of his farm, so MacKinnon started walking on the ice towards Whycocomagh. Before long he saw smoke, found Robertson, collected some coals, and took them home to start his fire. At one time the land and water were known as Lake Marguerite, the source of the famous Margaree River. The name was later changed to Lake Ainslie in honour of one of the last governors of Cape Breton.

CHURCHES Kenloch Presbyterian (295-1428) Alexander Grant United (East Lake Ainslie 756-2726) Immaculate Conception Catholic (West Lake Ainslie 945-2063) Wayside Chapel (West Lake Ainslie, non-denominational) 258-3817

MacDonald House Museum

Follow the key signs to museums in Nova Scotia

On the shores of Lake Ainslie, tour a heritage home, hear stories of the local people and enjoy the views of the sparkling water. With a large parking area, picnic site and children’s hiking trail, the visit will be a treat for all.

We are open from end of June to end of August. Visit our website or email for a list of events. Assisted by Nova Scotia 3458 Highway 395, East Lake Ainslie Museum and NSTCH Inverness County, Nova Scotia 902-258-3317 Email:

• Offering deluxe accommodations • Scent Free • Winter rates from November to May • Fine dining featuring local products & homemade foods • Licensed dining room open to the public for dinner from 5-8 pm - Reservations required! • Ideal place for private meetings, family celebrations & small weddings


toll free 1-866-707-4300

MacKinnon’s Campground

2457 Rte. 395 East Lake Ainslie, CB ~ 80 Sites ~

Water & Electricity (50 sewer) 30/50 amp service • Fishing • Swimming • Pool • Lake • Convenience Store • Recreation Hall • Trailer Rentals • Kayak Rentals • WiFi available

For Reservations 902-756-2790


Visit Nova Scotia’s largest natural freshwater lake and enjoy magnificent scenery, culture and hospitality.

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012


Page 35

Whycocomagh’s Firehouse Ironworks A chance to become a blacksmith for a day

At the Firehouse Ironworks building on Main Street in Whycocomagh, visitors have an opportunity to become a blacksmith for a day. It gives people a chance take part in this ancient craft. At Firehouse you can apprentice with local blacksmith Grant Haverstock and experience what it was like to work in a traditional blacksmith shop. After a safety demonstration and forge safety instruction, you can try your hand at the heritage craft of blacksmithing, leaving with a small item you have made (for prices, visit the Haverstock’s forge in Whycocomagh or visit his online site at The Firehouse also offers a range of forged products that will be of interest to many visitors, from hand-forged fireplace tools to artistic collectors’ items.

Whycocomagh Summer Festival ~ July 9-15 The annual Whycocomagh Summer Festival takes place this summer from Monday, July 9th until Sunday, July 15th, offering both residents and visitors a opportunity to join in the fun. Monday, July 9th

Thursday, July 12th

Saturday, July 14th

Youth Ball Hockey - Whycocomagh Arena; 7 p.m. Bras d’Or Lakes Canoe Paddle.

6:00 p.m. Street Fair, BBQ, Live Music, Children’s Games, Bras d’Or Lakes Waterfront. In conjunction with the Street Fair, also at 6:00 p.m., there will be War Canoe Races on the Bras d’Or Lakes Waterfront.

All day, Slow Pitch Tournament; 9:00 a.m. 5K & Fun Run; 12:30 p.m. Parade along Main Street: 1:00 p.m. Family and Parks Day with BBQ and Children’s Activities at the Provincial Park; 10 p.m.2 a.m. Adult Dance at Whycocomagh Arena.

Friday, July 13th

Sunday, July 15th

1:00 p.m. Water Blaster; 3:00 p.m. a Teddy Bear Picnic in the Whycocomagh Provincial Park; 7:00 p.m. Milling Frolic at Cameron Hall; 10:00 p.m. -1:30 a.m. Pub Night at the Lion’s Hall.

All day, Slow Pitch Tournament; 11a.m. Church Services; 7:30 p.m. A Ceilidh will be held at the Whycocomagh Fire Hall.

Tuesday, July 10th 1 p.m. Children’s Bingo on the Glenview Campground; 8 p.m.-10:30 p.m. A Teen Dance at the Whycocomagh Fire Hall.

Wednesday, July 11th 2:00-3:30 p.m. a Strawberry Tea and Ceilidh will be held at Sircom/Bayville Lodge; 9 p.m.-12 a.m. A Family Square Dance and Youth Ambassador Presentation at the Whycocomagh Lions Hall.

The village of Whycocomagh (Mi’kmaq for “Head of the Waters”) began being settled primarily by Scottish, with a sprinkling of Loyalist stock, in 1810. At the entrance to the provincial picnic park a cairn commemorates the landing of those who adopted Whycocomagh as their home. In the years that followed the first landing, the village grew quickly. By 1891, Whycocomagh had a larger population than Sydney. Whycocomagh was then a very active small port, maintaining steady trade with P.E.I. and Sydney. Trade was facilitated by the regular runs of small vessels that the villagers called schooners. During the days of the steamers, business and industry prospered. There were a number of stores, mills, hotels, farms and mines. Today Whycocomagh features several gas stations, local restaurants, a tourism resort, and a farmers’ market. The Whycocomagh Education Center, where the Whycocomagh Eco Centre is located, also serves as an elementary school for the surrounding area.

Blacksmith SHop 109 Main Street Whycocomagh B0E 3M0 902-756-IRON

Ironworks for home and garden

Page 36

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

Provincial park rents yurts, hosts campfire sessions The Whycocomagh Provincial Park is one of Inverness County’s most interactive parks, offering camping, hiking, weekly campfire sessions on Thursday nights where visitors and residents can enjoy hearing the stories of the area, or its songs, learn about wildlife, glean nuggets of local history. Located at the foot of Salt Mountain, the mountain which, according to Mi’kmaq mythology, Glooscap, the first human and hero of the Mi’kmaq culture, climbed to the top to survey his domain. He saw below him that his enemy, beaver, was causing trouble amongst the people. Glooscap grabbed a handful of rock and threw it towards the Bras d’Or Lakes in an attempt to kill beaver. Because of his incredible strength, he overshot his mark and where each rock fell, an island grew. It is in the shadow historic Salt Mountain that people can rent campsites, including some sites with electricity and/or water. New to the park this year is the

recent construction of three yurts, modelled on nomadic Mongolian dwellings. The yurts are located high up on the campsite, incorporating the versatility of the original Mongolian architecture. There is an open top to draw smoke away in foul weather, sides that roll up to allow warmer breezes to cool the interior in summer, and each yurt is capable of sleeping six people in bunk beds. The Whycocomagh Provincial Park (902-756-2448), location of a

provincial Natural Resources office, is staffed by friendly people and many of the NR staff, versed in local wildlife and other natural phenomenon, willing share that information with visitors. The park at the foot of Salt Mountain has been welcoming campers and visitors for more than half a century and has a 62-site campground (not including the yurts), picnic areas, lake access and boat launch, and a 2.4 km (1.5 mi.) hiking trail that can take you to the top of Salt Mountain. The payoff for this 2.4k (1.5 mile) hike is that you get a view that includes all four of Cape Breton’s counties and the incomparable magnificence of the Bras d’Or Lakes. One former schoolteacher is documented as remembering that her mother and sister would go to Salt Mountain, each carrying a pail. Once at the base of the mountain, they would catch the water trickling from the rock. “After the water evaporated,” she explained, “we would have our salt supply.”

Park Day On Saturday, July 21st, is Park Day across the province, and in Whycocomagh park employees will be celebrating with a Fun Day for all, free hot dogs and pop, games and music. The activities begin at 1 p.m. and go into the early evening. Even without planned events the park offers visitors an interesting range of natural experiences, not the least of which is a hike to the top of Salt Mountain, named so because apparently a saltwater spring exists at the top of the mountain.


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Toll Free 1 877 238 8950 Tel. 902-756-2291

Boot Sale Saturdays 10 a.m.-1:00 p.m.

HOurs: Monday-Saturday 8-8 pm Sunday 12-5 pm 9402 TCH, Whycocomagh, NS 902-756-2000

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Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

Page 37

Renew. Recharge. Refresh. (or just kick back & relax...)

No matter how long you stay, you’ll wish it was longer in our Canada Select 4-1/2 Star housekeeping cottages nestled on the shores of the stunning Bras d’Or Lakes. Whether you’re a golfer, explorer, watersports enthusiast, hiker or holiday couch-potato, you’ll find every opportunity to enjoy what you love best at Keltic Quay. And we’re not just for summer. Discover our clear, crisp winters and ski or snowmobile our trails. Enjoy the unforgettable spectacle of our fall colours, or the awakening beauty of our lakes in spring. Plan your stay by visiting or give us a call at 1-877-350-1122.


& GET A THIRD NIGHT FREE!* *Subject to cottage availability at time of booking.

Page 38

Helen’s Bakery

Owner/Operators Julia, Danielle, David & Jason

Baked Fresh Daily on Site ! Traditional Cape Breton • Breads • Rolls • Bonnach • Oakcakes and many more Sweets

* Three Locations to Serve you!

Mi’kmaq have lived in neighbouring We’ko’kmaq for millennia Across the Skye River is the First Nations Community of We’ko’kmaq (or Waycobah as it was originally misspelled but remains in use). The Mi’kmaq have inhabited this region for over 10,000 years, and their culture continues to thrive, and to preserve the ways and traditions of their ancestors. This tradition can be seen in their leather work, intricate basket weaving, and beautiful beadwork.

Whycocomagh Co-op (Liquor Agency) 756-3599 Mabou Freshmart (Liquor Agency) 945-2084 Baddeck 295-3264


Restaurant Home-cooked Meals Fully Licensed Air Conditioned

Open Year Round Whycocomagh 756-2338

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

Churches Holy Trinity Parish 902-756-3005 Little Narrows Presbyterian 902-756-2066 St. Andrews Presbyterian 902-756-2669

And this might happen to you... On Thursday evenings during the summer, campers at the Whycocomagh Provincial Park have been known to have their evening interrupted by the arrival of a local personality, Burton MacIntyre, offering to lead a convoy of campers and their cars to a local square dance. The dance MacIntyre will introduce you to is at Glencoe Mills, an over-themountain drive to hear some of the finest fiddlers in Cape Breton play in one of the most cherished dance halls on the island, a former community schoolhouse. It has happened in the past to the great delight of those who have chosen to follow Burton to this cultural destination.

Internet Café An Auld Brass Door Addition

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The Auld Brass Door

9814 Hwy 105,Cape Breton 902-756-3284

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

Page 39

Whycocomagh area trails and beaches to explore Stewartdale Trail Proceed up Highway 252, turn left to Roseburn and cross iron bridge (approximately 1 mile from Trans Canada Highway 105). Park car at Stewartdale Cemetery. Proceed on dirt road. At fork in the road, turn right to come out near Highway 252 and Highway 395 intersection. Turn left to come out at Skye Glen - Centreville Community Hall.

Mountain Road trail Proceed on the Trans Canada Highway 105 to the Mountain Road, opposite the Legion Hall. Park car at the water tower, follow road and keep left to Lake Ainslie. Return by the same trail.

Mountain Road Wilderness Trail Turn on the Mountain Road of the Trans Canada Highway 105. Park car at the water tower, go to intersection on Mountain Road and 104 snowmobile trail. Turn left and exit at the telephone office on Highway 252. Return by Highway 252, Highway 105 and up the Mountain Road.

Salt Mountain Trail (hiking only)

Trout Brook

Park car at campground entrance and follow the trail signs.

Skye Mountain Trail Proceed on the Trans Canada Highway 105 west to Iron Mines. Park car at the water spring across from the Orangedale turnoff. Proceed up Skye Mountain and return by the same route.

Situated on the shores of Lake Ainslie, this park boasts a white sand beach and a largest wooded picnic area. The park offers a boat launch and a swimming area. Address: Lake Ainslie, NS, Canada.

Information provided by the Whycocomagh Eco-Centre

Campbell’s Mountain Trail Proceed on Highway 252 off the Trans Canada. Turn left across an iron bridge. Proceed through Roseburn to Campbell’s Mountain. The trail goes to the top of the mountain and then retrace your steps.

Whycocomagh Beach Located on the shores of the Bras d’ Or Lake, this sandy beach features a wooded picnic area, and is located adjacent to a campground. Address: Whycocomagh, NS, Canada .

L’Arche Cape Breton offers crafts by local and Maritime artisans L’Arche is an international organization, founded by Canadian Jean Vanier, creating home and work with people who have developmental disabilities. Here in Cape Breton, L’Arche operates six homes for 25 men and women with disabilities, as well as 20-25 live-in staff who support them. Our day programs provide employment for all our residents, as well as numerous individuals with disabilities who live with their families or with other service providers. These programs include a craft studio; two used clothing stores – The Ark Store and The Hope Chest, a senior’s club, a summer day camp for youth, a small bakery and an organic garden. Many locals and passersby learn about L’Arche at The Ark Store in Iron Mines, Cape Breton or The Hope Chest in Mabou. Good quality used clothing, inspirational books, local and Nova Scotia crafts, and crafts made at the L’Arche workshop are sold here. Several core members are employed at the store, and they are kept very busy. L’Arche Cape Breton is located just off the Trans Canada Highway at Exit 4, Orangedale. Visitors are always welcome at the L’Arche Cape Breton community, where the beauty and strength of people with intellectual disabilities is always apparent.



Crafts & Gifts • Good Used Clothing - OPen Mon.-Fri. 9-3 Sat. 10-5

Whycocomagh 756-2474 Exit 4 TCH 105 Iron Mines just outside of Whycocomagh

Day Programs of L’Arche Cape Breton

• Good Used Clothing • L’Arche Crafts • Used Books

Mabou 945-2098 Next to Mabou Arena

Hours: Mon-Fri 9-3 Sat. 10-5 Email:

Orangedale Page 40

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

Orangedale -- Station celebrating 126TH anniversary The winds of change forever blow Some things stay and some things go The falling rain must melt the snow The Orangedale whistle will always blow (from Orangedale Whistle by Jimmy Rankin) Orangedale is a destination for train lovers. No longer a train stop, it is a living memory for train lovers in the Orangedale area. This small village a short distance off the Trans Canada (Route 105) by taking Exit 4, has dedicated itself to remembering the history of railroading, and a time when Orangedale was a vital link along the rail line. The station, now a railroad museum, will be open to visitors and manned all summer by students and volunteers. The village became a household name when the Rankin Family immortalized its history in Jimmy Rankin’s award-winning song, Orangedale Whistle. This summer, there will be a new display to interest train enthusiasts. The museum has obtained loan of a Business or Corporate Car that once belonged to the Newfoundland railroad. It was common when trains dominated the continent’s transportation, for the train companies to have a car that served as luxury quarters

for entertaining important guests, or providing a comfortable place for people to carry out business dealings. An American collector of train memorabilia, Henry Posner, owns the car and has loaned it to the Orangedale Station Museum. It will join the museum’s current collection of rolling stock which includes a caboose, a boxcar, a locomotive, a snowplow, flatcar and motorcar. On Sunday, September 16th, the station’s 126th Anniversary will be celebrated with various railroad displays. Named Orangedale for the once prominent Orangemen’s Hall that stood in this valley, the early residents of Orangedale for years reported seeing forerunners of huge machines, and many continue to believe those eerie experiences of hearing whistles and sounds of engines were the foretelling of the arrival

Original Orangedale Intercolonial

Railway Station Located in Orangedale: 30 minutes east of Port Hawkesbury, on TCH 105 take Exit 4, approx. 6 km.

of the railway which was built through the area in the 1880s. The present museum, when it served as a station, was famous for the hospitality extended by Station Master Jim MacFarlane and his wife, Maggie, who lived with their family in the upstairs apartment. It is this couple who are celebrated in the Jimmy Rankin song. The restored station proudly shows off the second floor apartment where dignitaries such as

Marble Mountain’s Wharf Festival is three days of food, fun and games The annual Wharf Festival, held August 10th -12th , highlights the summer activities at Marble Mountain, although there are other reasons for visitors and villagers to linger here. Located on the northwestern shore of the Bras d’ Or Lakes, Marble Mountain is named for the marble quarry that has, in centuries past, and now again in this century, exported red as well as blue-grey marble to sculptors and construction sites all over the world. The Wharf Festival begins on Friday, August 10th with a Games Night at the Marble Mountain Hall, free admission. On Saturday, the 11th, the community hosts a supper for residents and visitors. Supper tickets are $10. On Sunday, there is the Festival and Boat Poker Run at the Marble Mountain wharf with games, food and music. Summer activities in Marble Mountain begin on the Canada Day weekend, with a Community Supper on Saturday, June 30th and Canada Day activities on July 1st.


Wednesday to Sunday - Hours: 10 - 5:00 p.m. til August 28th

This original Intercolonial Railway Station was built in 1886, later operated by CN and VIA; and is now a museum Downstairs: waiting room & agent/operator’s office (circa 1940) Upstairs: restored to early 1900s with agents’ living quarters & various displays

125 between West Bay and Orangedale. Operated by the Marble Mountain Community Association. Open 10 - 5, July and August. Closed Monday. WendyMacDonald,756-3289.

126 th Anniversary Celebration Sunday, Sept. 16th, 2012

Visit us

Throughout the year, a free Games Night is held at the community hall every Wednesday at 7:30 p.m. Situated on the northwest shore of the Bras d’ Or Lakes, Marble Mountain overlooks some of the world’s most beautiful scenery, and many neighbours and tourists are attracted to its pristine white beach, the result of years of mining for white marble in the quarry that dominates the mountain behind the village. Instantly recognizable, too, are the two white 100-year-old churches that greet visitors entering from the west. The village is also known for the old commercial wharf that has provided safe moorings for many vessels over the years. The wharf is owned and maintained by the Marble Mountain Wharf Preservation Society, a good location from which to enjoy boating, kayaking and sailing. A well-maintained Bed and Breakfast accommodation is available in the local area. Visit the website at www.

Marble Mountain Museum Located off Route

After Sunday, August 28th check with the museum what times it will be open!

Various railway displays For more Information 756-3384 Reservations can be made with a day notice!

Alexander Graham Bell were greeted, and shares with all visitors the memorabilia and artifacts of railroading displayed on the ground floor. In 2005, the MacFarlane building was built, showcasing the material and artifacts from the museum’s collection. Volunteers have worked tirelessly to display the museum’s extensive collection of artifacts inside the buildings. It is their commitment and their memories that keep the museum operating.


Orangedale United 756-2829 Orangedale Presbyterian 756-3157

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012


Page 41

Canada’s only official links golf course

Official opening of Cabot Links scheduled for June 29th, After an exploratory summer in 2011 with the opening of 10 holes, one of Canada’s most ambitious, challenging, and original golf courses will unveil its entire 18 holes this summer with the official opening of Cabot Links in Inverness.

How rare is the golf experience offered at Cabot Links? There are more than 30,000 golf courses in the world. Only 246 of them, or less than one percent, can be classified as links courses, according to George Peper and Malcolm Campbell, co-authors of the book, True Links. In Inverness, you will discover Cabot Links, one of those true links courses, a course that will command all of your concentration because the distractions are varied and many and all beautiful, whether it is the summer roll of the Gulf of St. Lawrence or its grey pounding autumn surf, the sight of crab and tuna boats off shore, or tying up at Within less than an the local wharf hour’s distance... just below the 11th hole, or Besides offering a challenging the evening golf course, there is an aspect after evening of Cabot Links that visitors ever-changing may not appreciate. Inverness is located in Central Inverness County, and for visitors to the Cabot Links there are many Why not stop other attractions of which they, or any other visitor, should be aware. All along the western coast of Cape Breton Island there are offerings and experiences enough to encourage people to stay an extra or several days just to take it all in. In Judique, there is the Celtic Music Interpretative Centre, offering food and daily entertainment, music archives and instruction. In Port Hood, the Chestico Museum is a hub of local history; and the village itself is lined with wonderful beaches, one of which is lifeguard patrolled. (cont’d next page)

backdrop of sunsets. A three-mile stretch of sandy beach running along the lower edge of Cabot Links offers an ideal day-care for non-golfing family members of all ages. The town of Inverness, ringed by a horseshoe of mountains, as rich in summer green or autumn colours as the sunsets themselves, add to the distractions. As will the natural challenges associated with any links course, the winds, the rain, the deep traps, the environmentally-protected wetlands on the course. The par 70 links course has constructed an initial 48-room hotel and pro shop, a clubhouse and high quality restaurant for golfers to enjoy and relax. The course itself offers an opportunity for golfers of varying abilities to test their skills against the Rod Whitman-designed course. The course has the elasticity to play as long as 6800 years, or to be as short as 3700 years. It is a course upon which a golfer can expand his skills by increasing the distance he chooses to play. With golf pro Joe Robinson on hand, advice can be had. Robinson, who had served for 39 years as pro with the highly acclaimed Highland Links in Ingonish on the famed Cabot Trail, took on the new challenge of being the pro for Canada’s only authentic links golf

course. Like all links courses, Cabot Links is a walking course only. No golf carts are available unless mobility issues are involved for golfers. Caddy service is offered. Cabot Links is a course already drawing international attention and while it is a golf course that is, like others, filled with greens, it is also a “green” course, a course that takes no potentially productive land out of use. It is built in large part on land reclaimed from the slag heaps and ash piles dating back to Inverness’s coal mining era. It also uses as its main water source the town’s processed waste or brown water, and its design carefully protects inhabited bog land. According to a feature in Air Canada’s En Route magazine, “Cabot Links [is] part of an emerging trend toward minimalist golf design, where builders leave the natural landscape intact as much as possible. In an era when golf courses can cost tens of millions to build, golf developer Mike Keiser’s projects usually cost a fraction of that amount. “This is simply going back to the beginning of what makes golf great,” says Cabot Links co-partner Ben Cowan-Dewar.

by and give Cabot Links a try? That’s what it’s there “Fore!”

Page 42

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

Inverness Gathering is a community effort that offer all a good time The annual Inverness Gathering (July 23-29) is a cooperative effort by several of the town’s organizations and services. The fishermen, the horsemen, the firemen, the Legion and the local arena each produce a day’s activities intended to serve two purposes, raise much needed funds for their own needs, and provide endless entertainment all week long for residents and visitors. Monday 23rd

Wednesday 25th

Saturday 28th

Everett Skinner Memorial Golf Tournament NOTE: LOCATION UNKNOWN YET- Cheticamp or Inverness?

Horsemen’s Day - Wagon rides and a BBQ available at the Inverness race track beginning at 11:00 a.m. 7:30 p.m. the Wednesday evening harness racing card begins, featuring the Inverness Gathering Pace, and presenting, between dashes, the Princesses vying for the Inverness Gathering Queen crown.

Inverness Arena Day - 9 a.m. 5-mile run, a 5-kilometre walk and a kids’ fun run. At 11:00 a.m. there will be a children’s parade over Central Avenue, followed at Noon by the Inverness Gathering Parade. At 10 p.m. there will be a dance at the Inverness arena (the Dr. Bernie MacLean Recreation Centre) with music by The Phantoms.

Tuesday 24th Fishermen’s Day - Boat parade at Noon at the Inverness wharf, followed by free boat rides for the public, a beer garden and a concert stage presenting local performers throughout the day and into the sunset.

Thursday 26th Legion Day - Veterans and members marching from the Legion Hall to the Inverness Academy for a memorial ceremony at the town’s cenotaph. At 5:30 p.m. there will be a kayak sunset paddle at the Inverness wharf.

Friday 27th Firemen’s Day - BBQ and hay rides at Inverness fire hall from noon to 2 p.m. At 6 p.m. at the park on Central Avenue the crowning of the Inverness Gathering Queen will take place.

Summer Hours Monday to Friday

9 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. Saturday 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Sunday 29th 11:30-3:00 p.m. there will be ham and salad dinner at the Inverness fire hall. At 3:00 p.m., while not officially part of the Inverness Gathering, the popular Broad Cove Concert begins, offering music through the day into the sunset and probably beyond.

from page 41 I n Mabou, there is the heralded West Mabou Beach; the year-round Saturday night Family Square Dances; the music offering of nationally acclaimed Red Shoe; several dining options; the nearby Thursday night summer family square dances in Glencoe; and beautiful drives. At Lake Ainslie, there is the MacDonald House Museum; and the Scotsville School of Crafts with on-site demonstrations in weaving. At Inverness, there is a lifeguarded beach, weekly Sunday Afternoon and Wednesday Night Harness Racing, hiking trails, the Inverness County Centre for the Arts with exhibits of resident and visiting artists all summer. At Margaree, one of the world’s famous Salmon Fishing Rivers is located, including the Salmon Museum with its history of the famous sport. At Cheticamp and the surrounding Acadian region exists one of the most vibrant Acadian cultures in all of Atlantic Canada, offering Authentic Acadian Cuisine; and ongoing celebration of all things Acadian in music and drama, nearby hiking at the entrance to the Cabot Trail. All of these attractions, it is worth repeating, are available within a forty-five minute drive of Cabot Links and Inverness.

inverness 258-2789 Celebrating

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Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

Tribute Performance of the

~July 31-August 1~

Last Waltz

The River Hill Players, a community theatre group located in Inverness, will be co-producing along with the Strathspey Place Performance Centre in Mabou, 35th Anniversary Tribute Performance of THE LAST WALTZ on Tuesday, July 31st, and on Wednesday, August 1st. This is a reprise production first presented to a sold out audience on December 28th of 2011. Demand for a remounting of the popular music show depicting The Band’s last concert has resulted in this summer’s presentation of the River Hill Players Production. Besides offering a stunning staging of the original Last Waltz, this show also serves as a showcase of Inverness County musical talent in a non-traditional format. While the County prides itself on its Celtic and Acadian cultures, and the creative energy those musician generate in themselves and their audiences, The Last Waltz underscores the range of talent to be found within the relatively small, rural population of Inverness County. If you are fortunate enough to acquire tickets (call 902-245-5300 or visit: www. this is a production to be enjoyed by everyone

Page 43

The ghosts among us and why they stay There was a time when tales of ghosts and forerunners and second sight and the restless dead returning to beg a living relative to pay a forgotten bill filled the evenings around the kitchen tables of Inverness County in a way no television show or online entertainment is capable of doing. There was a time when someone walking home from a dance alone along a tree-lined dirt road would report encounters with strange creatures or occurrences: visions in the sky, perhaps, or the passing of a phantom funeral, the apparition of dead relative, or a lonely woman who danced with the handsomest man in the hall, only to look down and see that he had cloven hooves for feet. Yet the tales that dominated the dark nights before electricity cast flourescent lights into the dark corners of just about everywhere were not tales of horror. Certainly people were often frightened by what they claimed to have experienced, or armed themselves with rosaries and holy water, but rarely, if ever, has anyone been damaged in body or soul by our resident population of ghosts. There’s a reason for this. In a culture where it is common for people to recite the generations of their ancestors, most ghostly encounters were with a distant cousin of their own or someone they knew. The explanation for our abundance of ghosts, according to some seers among us, is that despite the promises of paradise, most Cape Bretoners would prefer to stay right here on the island. We hope you will, as well.

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Page 44

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

July exhibit features turn of 20th century Hatt photographs The Inverness Miners Museum will feature a collection of photography by Ernest S. Hatt depicting life and people in Inverness and throughout Inverness County in the early 1900s, when the town was booming with coal mines and miners. The quality of Hatt’s photography is remarkable, and when one considers the time, equipment, chemicals and labour involved, the depth of the artist’s commitment is evident.

The Refinery Maple Street Inverness

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Quality pre-owned ladies clothing Vintage Clothing * Shoes * Purses Jewellery * Antique Quilts Tears of Glass Sea Glass Jewellery Antique China * Collectibles * Record Albums Books and more.......

Tuesday – Saturday 10-5 1-902-258-5948

The exhibit, featuring close to 100 quality original photographs, represents the work of Hatt who lived a decade in Inverness before moving elsewhere, returning regularly to photograph school classes, picnics, families, events. In recent years, archivist Janice Ferguson, in conjunction with the Miners Museum, has compiled what had been Hatt’s a widely scattered legacy of a now vanished era.

Bruno’s Deli

Inverness 902-258-3717

A shop with a Celtic climate! ~ Fàilte ~

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Cape Breton Music Imported and Local Gifts Weaving in Store Free Gaelic Lessons

• Fresh coffee • Subs & Soup • Meat & Cheese Trays • Greeting Cards • Breakfast Sandwiches • Lobster Burgers • Baked Goods

Wireless service, Non-Smoking CBTV and phones Walking distance to beautiful, sandy, life-guarded beach and boardwalk. Close to walking trails, restaurants and museums.

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wing night

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Karaoke & Live Bands throughout the week

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Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

Page 45

Inverness County Centre for the Arts offers exhibits, performances A visit to Inverness will never be complete without a visit to the Inverness County Centre for the Arts. This gallery and performance centre features exhibits by professional artists throughout the summer and fall.

George Smith - “Rebirth of the Dryads Beneath the Sun” is a multimedia exploration in sculpture, painting and sketch of the conception of trees and the rebirth of their spirits in recycled wood and the feminine form. Andrzej Maciejewski - “Weather Report” features 36 photographs of the same place in different weather conditions. These photos were taken over the period of a year with a 6ft. x 6ft.x 10ft. Camera Obscura constructed by the artist to capture the images.

majestic Margaree Valley. It all seeps into my subconscious. Crows (my favourite bird) shows up with some regularity in my paintings as they never fail to fascinate and amuse me. Daniel Kazimierski - “Still Lifes” are photographic images made up of fascinating food objects and bits and pieces of things that have been left behind or discarded. Odds and ends of string, old tools, rusted and flattened cans, sticks, leaves are juxtaposed in mixed-media boxes to create a combination of realism and abstraction with these images.

July 6 - August 30

August 31- Sept. 24

Hands Dancing - Annual Members Show featuring the works of more than 50 Inverness County artists.

Adrienne Yorinks - “Painting with Cloth” features fabric art by Adrienne who has been described as someone who is able to “paint” with fabric. Her textile art reveals her unique artistry and vision. Masques & Mi-Carême - Fête-on” / Local Artists: The rich traditions associated with this Mid-Lent celebration are firmly anchored in the folkways of Acadian communities. This exhibit will showcase artwork that reflects the MiCaréme and Acadian culture

June 8th - July 2nd

August 3- August 27 Dot Currie - “Something for Everyone” My paintings are directly influenced by my yearly four month stay on Cape Breton Island; whether it’s the ocean, the colour of the ever changing sky, the horizon, the rocks, driftwood, fish, the

Sept. 28- Oct. 22 Steve Brooks - “Colorful Characters” - Imaginary portraits and landscapes with a selection of illustrations from two graphic novels; “The Two Wives Adventure in Mexico” and “The Two Husbands Adventure.” “Hidden Treasures” Undiscovered Local Artists. This show will feature the work of many unknown artists in Inverness County. The centre also has a superb gift shop and a calendar of entertainment. There’s lots to do in Inverness, and if you can’t do it all in one day, stay!

16080 Highway 19 Inverness Cape Breton 902-258-2533

IN THE GALLERY Opening receptions 6:00 p.m. to 7:30 p.m. on opening days.

Visit our web site for information on the Third Meadow gift shop and upcoming events. HOURS Mon., Wed., Thurs., Fri. 10–6 Sat., Sun. 12–4 Tues. Closed

May 13–June 4 SHOW OFF STUDENTS Inverness County Student Artists June 8–July 2 REBIRTH OF THE DRYADS BENEATH THE SUN George Smith WEATHER REPORT Andrzej Maciejewski

July 6–30 HANDS DANCING Annual Members’ Show Aug. 3–27 SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE Dot Currie STILL LIFES Daniel Kazimierski

Aug. 31–Sept. 24 PAINTING WITH CLOTH Adrienne Yorinks MASQUES & MI – CARÊME FÊTE – ON Local Artists Sept. 28–Oct. 22 COLORFUL CHARACTERS Steve Brooks HIDDEN TREASURES Undiscovered Local Artists

Page 46

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

Inverness: the town that was once literally painted “red”

Inverness town (actually, the town surrendered its status in 1968 to become part of the larger municipality of Inverness, but the people of the town have never surrendered up that identity) still retains many traits of its coal mining past, most notably the “company houses” on the ocean side of Central Avenue. These houses were temporary dwellings constructed by the coal company circa 1904, but a century later most of them remain occupied, a testament to the quality and integrity of the carpenters who built them despite the coal company’s short-sighted plans for the town. Because the coal company also owned the railroad it had access to an endless supply of boxcar paint which it used to paint all those houses. Now diversely coloured, the streets

of company houses continue to be referred to as the Red Rows. So Inverness was once a town that was literally painted “red,” and can be again if you decide to stay around and take in all that’s on offer. The railroad that was once built by the coal and rail company, called MacKenzie and Mann, has long been abandoned, its rails torn up. Today, that rail bed is part of the Trans Canada Trail, a great hiking or biking opportunity that will guide explorers to a trestle across the Broad Cove River that horseshoes its way behind the town to empty into the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Much can be learned about these houses and the history of coal mining by visiting the Inverness Miners Museum on Lower Railway Street. The Inverness Miners Museum is a rich source of information about coal mining in the area. Also, in the museum’s annex is lthe Cottage Closet, operated by the Inverness Cottage Workshop, offering a selection of clothing. The Workshop’s nearby bakery offers tempting breads and treats.

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Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

Page 47

A thumbnail sketch of the history of Inverness Inverness was first settled in 1803, with the arrival of two young men from the Isle of Skye. Early one morning in that year, Donald Maclsaac spotted a location that was to be his home and later the town of Inverness. Later that same day, as evening approached, Angus Maclsaac landed at MacIsaac’s Pond. Strangely, both men travelled separately and were not related. According to an old Bible, owned by a descendant of one of these early settlers, the location of the earliest graves in Inverness is near Maclsaac’s Pond, marked now by a cairn. This cairn can be seen and visited on the dunes above the Inverness beach. A steady stream of settlers continued to move to this area. By 1904, following the discovery of coal, the Inverness population consisted of the traditional Scots, Irish, and French, as well as Russians, Belgians, and other nationalities. These diverse groups, who worked side by side in the mines, shared a spirit of friendship that disappeared only during the occasional “Friday night friction.” As the face of the land and the community changed, so did the community’s name. The town was previously known as Broad Cove Coal Mines, Broad Cove Shore, Lochleven and Broad Cove Shean (Sithean), meaning “land of the fairies.” The name Inverness was chosen since most of the area residents came from the Scottish settlement of Inverness-shire. Throughout the name changes, the ways and environment of Inverness’ people changed as well. The early lifestyle of the pioneer was mainly agricultural. These free pioneers, who worked the land and burned wood for heat, were certainly aware of the black ore under the soil that would eventually and drastically change their way of life. The first regular seam of coal was discovered by (Red) John Beaton in 1863. The industry progressed slowly and uncertainly until the arrival of William Penn Hussey, an internationally known mining speculator from Massachusetts.


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According to an early newspaper, the Inverness News, Hussey’s mining enterprise in Broad Cove was “ranked among the richest in the world.” Hussey, however, wasn’t quite as confident when he first arrived. Shortly before a wealthy Swiss investor came to examine the mining possibilities at Broad Cove, Hussey hired several workers to paint the walls of rock that faced the ocean “black as night.” From the deck of his ship, the investor marvelled at the colossal wall of black coal. The men who mined the coal and who rarely had the opportunity to enjoy the summer air, the blue sky, or the rolling of waves upon the golden sands, were a special breed. “Not one of the old miners I’ve spoken to has said they disliked their work,” said historian and curator of the Inverness Miners Museum, the late Ned MacDonald. After the “Hussey years,” a new company, The Inverness Railway and Coal Company, took over. The owners, MacKenzie and Mann, built the railway from Inverness to Port Hastings.

Inverness Cottage Workshop

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Page 48

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

Wire to wire: Inverness harness racing offers photo-finish excitement

The Inverness harness racing track has been described as the most accessible grassroots level of this ancient and popular sport. The race

The Village Grill 258-3666

track, which has been in operation since 1919, is run by volunteers, horsemen and women whose love of the sport has made this track work year after year. For 90 years now, and as a United States Trotting Association member since the 1950s, each spring, summer and autumn the rapid thunder of hooves pounding towards the finish line has defined racing season after racing season. But nothing has defined the spirit of and love for horses than the volunteer nature of the Inverness track. Generation after generation has produced young people whose

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passion for the sport has sustained the track through its best and its roughest economic seasons. This summer, as in past summers, on Sunday afternoons and Wednesday nights, local trotters and pacers will be racing to have their photos taken at the finish line, exciting fans and bettors. The Inverness Horsemen also operate simulcast racing several nights a week in the track’s parimutuel building, where races from Woodbine, Meadowlands, Flamboro, RideauCarlton, Georgian Downs and other ovals are telecast, and parimutuel wagering is available.

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Harness Racing June to October

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Inverness RaceWay: Sun., Mon., Thurs., Fri., Sat. Port Hood Fire Hall : Friday & Saturday Horseman’s Bingo - Tuesday - 7:30 Arena Bingo - Play it at the Raceway on Thursdays - 7:30 Sponsored by the Inverness Raceway

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

Page 49

Fossil cliffs of Inverness

Thursday Night Ceilidhs provide the soundtrack to Inverness summers

Coal Age is a nickname for a part of the Earth’s history called the Carboniferous Period. This period dates from about 350 million years ago to 280 million years ago. At that time, Nova Scotia was a warm land close to the equator, with many flood plains and wide river deltas. Along the river and in the swamps were dense growths of trees and leafy ferns. Giant insects buzzed about. Amphibians both large and small crawled and swam in the Coal Age, but there were no birds. Dinosaurs would not evolve for another 100 million years. For you to find a fossil today, the ancient plant or animal must have been quickly buried and preserved after death. The fossilbearing rock that formed must not have been altered over the millions of years and must now lie near the surface of the Earth. In Inverness County, two distinct coal beds were formed over different time periods. The earliest coal beds were those of the Cumberland Basin including Port Hood and St. Rose-Chimney Corner. Favourable sites for peat accumulation changed as geological forces shaped the basins, and the coal of the late Carboniferous Period were formed at Mabou Coal Mines and Inverness as part of the Gulf of St. Lawrence Basin. At Port Hood, Mabou, Inverness and St. Rose-Chimney Corner, Coal Age streams carrying sediment occasionally flooded the swamps and forests, burying trees and plants in mud and sand. Millions of years later, this fossil-bearing sedimentary rock was lifted up and tilted to expose fossil walls on beaches, in the crumbling cliffs, along the stream banks, in coal dumps, and mine tailings. The coal and shale of Cape Breton is rich in fossils, including some ferns found nowhere else in North America. When visiting coastal Inverness County, inquire at the local museums for specific locations of fossil sites. When in Inverness, visit the Inverness Miners’ Museum and arrange for a fossil site tour as well as many other eco-tours of the area.

Alice Freeman is joined onstage by Ronald MacKenzie during a Celtic Colours concert called A Ceilidh for Alice. “That’s the best $5 I ever spent,” one visitor exclaimed as he left a two-hour session at the Inverness Fire Hall. The session was the weekly Thursday Night Ceilidh, hosted by Gaelic singer Alice Freeman. It is a weekly ceilidh through the summer months that showcases young musicians, some with already well-established reputations and some of whom we will be hearing much more in years to come. For almost two decades this Inverness ceilidh has been extremely popular with residents and visitors. Listen for the kilted pipers out front of the fire hall if you are looking for this fine showcase of cultural entertainment.

Freeman’s Pharmacy Serving Inverness County Since 1946. For all your drugstore needs

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Page 50

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

Coal Miners of Inverness County Inverness Miners


Company houses, Inverness

He is lowered in a rake

through a yawning artificial passage into the deep, dark, and rumbling bowels of the earth. He has to work with pick and shovel, and with dangerous explosives. For him there is no liberty, no air, no room, no moon, no sun, no day: all is one weird, long and lingering night. For him no birds are singing, no flowers are blooming, no glad voices of innocent children to cheer his burdened soul. Every moment he is underground, his life is in jeopardy. When he returns again to light, the reaction is so severe and sudden that it is dangerous for him to expose himself to the ordinary influence of the streets. He must avoid all incentives to violent excitement. What he needs is fresh air, wholesome food, comfortable rest and the kind care of a well-kept home....These are the men who carry the world on their shoulders. (from A History of Inverness County by J.L. MacDougall)


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ice cream barn open 12-10 pm 15938 Central Ave., Inverness, CB 258-2003 Open 7 Days a Week 6 a.m.-11 p.m.

Located on Lower Railway Street in the old C.N. railway station. 258-3822. Email: Exhibits devoted to the coal mining history of the district, the museum also houses a small archives. Open June 15 to September 30, 12 noon to 5 p.m.

CHURCHES Stella Maris Roman Catholic 258-2462 St. Matthew’s United 258-2323 St. Margaret’s of Scotland Roman Catholic (Broad Cove) 258-2462


Flowers &Gifts

Garden Center Open June, July & August. Specializing in Fresh cut, tropical and blooming plants as well as silks. Weddings, special occasions and funerals. We can send your flowers Large selection anywhere in the world with of giftware and Teleflora. home decor. 16022 Central Ave., Inverness, NS, B0E 1N0 Tel. 258-2674 / 2336 Fax 258-2299

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

Page 51

Monument honours greatness of a native son As you enter Inverness you will see on the upper sidewalk a marble monument to Inverness’s favourite son, the Hon. Allan J. MacEachen, former Deputy Prime Minister of Canada whose various roles in the governments of Lester Pearson and Pierre Elliot Trudeau allowed him to become a major architect of national programs such as universal health care and care for the impoverished and elderly.

Veteran’s Memorial Court Located at the Inverness Education Centre and Academy on Veteran’s Memorial Court, the Veteran’s Memorial Wall pays tribute to the hundreds of soldiers who made sacrifices in World Wars I and II, and Korea. Inverness town had the highest per capita enlistment in WWII, and the highest per capita casualties. In St. Matthew’s United Church you will find stained glass window memorials to the fallen, including three Jewish Invernessers.

Broad Cove Page 52

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

Barra MacNeils headline 56th Broad Cove Scottish Concert A Scotch Four (picture) is one of the performances patrons of the 56th Broad Cove Scottish Concert, can expect to see and hear in the hayfield beside St. Margart’s Church. On July 29th, along with a stellar line-up of 25 performances, there will be the added attraction of the Barra MacNeils. While the first segment of this year’s concert (from 3-6 p.m.) will feature performers such as Kinnon and Betty Beaton, Glenn Graham and Rodney MacDonald as a double fiddling duo, or young sensation Douglas Cameron’s stunning command of the fiddle, the popular Guitar Summit led by Scott Macmillan and Brian Doyle, and the Acadian dance troupe, Swing du Súete, will awe the audience, there’s lots more to come. At 7:00 p.m. the Barra MacNeils will take the stage, filling it with an energy Nova Scotia Power would envy. The internationally acclaimed Cape Breton band of brothers and sisters perform the music of this island and of Gaels

everywhere with pride, with passion, and with honour. The Barras (Kyle, Lucy, Shemus, Stewart, Boyd and Ryan) are multi-talented, offering an exciting mix-andmatch potential of vocals and instruments. 2012 marks the 25th year in which the Barra MacNeils have awed audiences around the world. As a group, the six MacNeil siblings are widely regarded as one of the greatest live concert acts in the Celtic world, the family group being deeply rooted in

56th Annual

Celtic music, culture, dance, language and history. Their numerous critically acclaimed recordings have included their own original songs as well as tried and true standards, both instrumental and vocal. The Barra MacNeils live concert experience brings much more to the stage than most live acts. Multiple lead vocalists, beautiful sibling harmonies, top drawer instrumental prowess on a wide variety of acoustic, stringed, percussion and wind

instruments blended with dancing, storytelling, Gaelic songs and a journey through an ancient culture; it is family entertainment at its highest level. While organizers expect no shortage of available tickets to the Broad Cove Concert, tickets can also be purchased on line at: www. A visit to that site will also provide the complete line-up of performers for the Broad Cove Concert, the single “must do” event of any Cape Breton summer.

Broad Cove Concert

featuring Special Guests the

Barra MacNeils

July 29th 2012, time 3-9 pm

The best of Scottish talent including violin, stepdancing, singing, highland dancing and much more...

On the grounds of St. Margaret of Scotland’s Parish. Ample parking, canteen, beer tent, washrooms, and security. Visit us online at

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Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

The margarees

Page 53

Margarees offer summer festivals, dances & music

During the summer months, the many communities along the Margaree River like to play, and the way community members here as anywhere play with each other is through events like summer festivals. The Margarees boast three festivals. In Margaree the summer fun begins with the Northeast Margaree Firemen’s Fun Days, July 6-8. Friday, July 6th

7:30 p.m. Princess Pageant, Variety Concert and Cake Auction at the Cranton Crossroads Community Centre.

Saturday, July 7th 10 a.m. Parade from the East Big Interval Road to the Community Centre. Noon-2:00 p.m. Hotdogs, pop and children’s activities. 9:00 p.m.- 1:00 a.m.: A dance will be held at the Cranton Crossroads Community Centre.

Sunday, July 8th 8 a.m. Ball Tournament on the Margaree Centre recreation Grounds 4:00 p.m. Duck Race beginning at Cranton Bridge.

Belle Côte Days From Wednesday, July 25th through to Sunday, July 29th, it is Belle Côte Days. The small Acadian community just north of Margaree Harbour and adjacent to East Margaree offers lots of food, entertainment, and dances. On Wednesday, July 25th, there will be a Golf Tournament held at the 18-hole La Portage course in Cheticamp. Thursday, the 26th offers in the morning a Triathlon open to all, which includes swimming, biking and running. In the afternoon, a Kayak Parade will be held in Margaree Harbour, at the mouth of the famous river. At 7 p.m., an Interfaith Service will be held at the Belle Côte Community Centre, followed at 8 p.m. by a Variety Concert featuring fiddlers, singers, dancers and other expressions of talent. Friday, the 27th, organizers will host an All Day Horseshoe Tournament on the grounds of the Community Centre. (Registration takes place Thursday evening at the centre.) In the afternoon,

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a Seniors Card To u r n a m e n t will be held. Beginning at 4:30 p.m. it’s the Annual Corn & Crab Boil, a feast everyone will enjoy. The boil will go on into the evening when a real musical treat begins. At 9 p.m. Lola and the Phantoms will be performing for a concert and dance. This is a band that has been in existence for more than 40 years, and worth the listen. Saturday, the 28th begins with an All You Can Eat Breakfast from 7:30-10:30. At 2 p.m., the Annual Belle Cote Parade takes place, the parade beginning at the Belle Côte Beach and ending at the Community Centre. Then it’s time for a Kids Party with free hot dogs and entertainment. On Saturday evening, there will be a Bonfire at the Belle Côte Beach. Sunday, the 29th features the Annual Chicken Barbecue, a Margaree Fire Department fund-raiser, from 11-1 p.m.

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Page 54

Margaree Summer Events The approach taken by the Margaree Area Development Association (MADA) has been to spread its entertainment offerings across three widely separated days, each day focussing on a particular part of the community’s interests and/or concerns:

Canada Day celebrates authors with a Literary Day Beginning at 2 p.m. at the Coady Tompkins Memorial library, located at the junction of Route 19 & Cabot Trail the

day will allow visitors to meet and mingle with residents whose celebration on this occasion has special significance. This free admission afternoon is organized for your enjoyment, but it also hopes to raise awareness of the importance and value of the library. Like many rural economies, some services become endangered, and while visitors are not expected to be particularly interested in local woes, they will be interested in the entertaining and traditional ways that organizers have chosen to underscore their communities’ concerns. The day begins with music provided by two of Nova Scotia’s most gifted guitarists, Brian Doyle and Scott Macmillan. These two musicians, if you happen to be unfamiliar with them, will provide visitors with an unforgettable range and command that can be both chilling and thrilling in its presentation. While the music is playing on a stage behind the library, a corn, potato and sausage barbecue will be held on the grounds. There will also be an opportunity to bid on Picnic Baskets, and dine with basket’s creator. Beginning at 3 p.m. there will be readings in the library by 2010 Giller Prize winner Linden MacIntyre, 2012 Giller nominee author Lynn Coady, and a third surprise author. Linden MacIntyre, whose novel, The Bishop’s Man, Canada’s richest literary prize, in 2010. This year saw the publication of What Men Want, the much awaited third book in a trilogy that began with Long Stretch. MacIntyre, whose role

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012 as investigative reporter for CBC’s fifth estate has earned him several awards, is as adept at fiction as he is at exposing uncomfortable truths. Lynn Coady’s most recent novel, The Antagonist, Linden MacIntyre has been shortlisted for the Giller Prize, Canada’s richest literary award. Coady will be reading from the story, in which Gordon Rankin (“Rank”) is cast as an enforcer, a goon. In her telling of Rankin’s story, Lynn Coady Lynn Coady delves deeply into the ways we sanction and stoke male violence, giving us a large-hearted, often hilarious portrait of a man tearing himself apart in order to put himself back together. An as yet undetermined third author will be participating in this popular annual literary event. Following the readings, there will be a question and answer period, and an opportunity to mix with meet the guest authors.

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Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012 Saturday, Aug. 4 The Anything that Floats Race

Beginning at 2 p.m., the Margaree R i v e r becomes the playground for a series of free activities. The flagship (if it doesn’t sink) of this annual river event is an Anything That Floats Race. Some imaginative crafts are created (then often waterlogged and lost) for this fun trip down the Margaree River. Traditionally, scores of the weird, the odd, the imaginative have undertaken the challenge, and if you think that carrier case on top of your car has buoyancy potential you might consider joining the fun yourselves. All floats, kayaks and canoes will register at Tanner’s Pool in Margaree Valley. The judging of the floats will take place prior to the race (raising the question, even if your float doesn’t float, indeed sinks, can it win because of the prior judging?).

The end of the race will feature a BBQ, entertainment, and T-shirts. Even if you are not entering this year’s event, its filled with laughter for those who choose to just watch.

The Coady Tompkins Library The Coady Tompkins Library is named for two social justice giants from the Margarees, Fr. Moses Coady and Fr. Jimmy Tompkins. These two priests were instrumental in working with farmers, coal miners and communities during the 1920s, ‘30s and ‘40s, to establish co-operatives. Their word changed the economic options for many parts of Atlantic Canada and today Saint Francis Xavier University runs the Coady Institute, which brings students from the developing world to that campus in Antigonish for education and mentoring in co-operative values. The good work accomplished by the Coady Institute has become internationally acclaimed as “the Antigonish Movement.” Beside books to read, visitors will find a far more practical service within the library. There are computers with highspeed internet available for public use, including wireless internet access, and photocopying available.

Page 55

Do you want to square dance? To take advantage of Cape Breton square dancing, there are two places in the Margarees that promise to wear out you or the soles of your shoes with a square set or two. If you are in good condition, perhaps three or four. The Southwest Margaree Parish Hall in Southwest Margaree (naturally) holds a square dance every Friday night through the summer, and whichever fiddler is on stage is certain to be gifted in the tunes and timing that dancers require to go through the three figures of a square set. People are also very tolerant of those who are just learning, and are willing to help you along. The Barn, located on the property of the Normaway Inn in Margaree Valley, has become a Cape Breton fiddling institution with weekly concerts and square dances. Hosted by Dave MacDonald, this entertainment hot spot holds its Three Fiddler Concerts every Wednesday night at The Barn through July and August. The fiddlers include some of the household names on the island, as well as providing a venue for younger fiddlers who will one day become themselves household names in a culture that cherishes its soundtrack roots in the ancient Celtic tradition.

The Margarees rich in culture, salmon and sheer beauty

Welcome to the Margarees We use

the plural because all along this beautiful, internationally renowned salmon fishing mecca called the Margaree River are the many communities that have, for more than two centuries, earned their living from the resources of the river, the fertile earth its water enriches and the richness of the mixed forest that flourishes along its banks and surrounding mountains. So along the Margaree River is Margaree Harbour, East Margaree, Margaree Forks, Northeast Margaree, Southwest Margaree, Margaree Valley, Margaree Centre, or as someone has said, there is a Margaree for every point on the compass. The Margaree River itself, designated as one of Canada’s Heritage Rivers, is itself comprised of two rivers, the Northeast Margaree River which originates in the Cape Breton Highlands, and the Southwest Margaree River which draws its considerable current from Lake Ainslie. In all, they form a total length of 120 km (72 miles). The world famous Margaree winds like

a blue ribbon through valleys and villages settled by the Scots, Irish, and French. The mingling of their cultures makes the Margarees fascinating and magical. Margaree is a French place-name that translates to the name Marguerite, who was possibly an early settler’s wife. Margaree offers visitors a lot to do and see, but its first claim to fame is the quality of its salmon fishing. Once threatened, a heroic community volunteer effort through recent decades took possession of an abandoned fish hatchery and replenished the river with trout and salmon. One of the river’s recommended attractions is the Margaree Fish Hatchery in Margaree Valley. In operation since 1902 by the federal department of Ocean and Fisheries, it was about to close when the Aquatic Development Association of Margaree (ADAM) stepped forward as a non-profit group. They continued to raise Atlantic salmon and brook trout for release. Two years ago, the Nova Scotia government stepped in and took control of the century-old hatchery on behalf of the people of Margaree, reducing the exhausting volunteer burden.

The Margaree Hatchery welcomes visitors and provides a wonderful opportunity to see the stages of development that are nurtured in the salmon and trout. There is an Interpretation and Visitor Information Centre on the property. The Visitor Centre is a great learning facility offering films, photographs, posters, artifacts and displays of Atlantic Salmon, Nova Scotia wildlife, hatchery operations, Mi’kmaq history, and aspects of recreational angling in Nova Scotia. The most exciting recent addition is an underwater camera that feeds live images of salmon, trout, and aquatic habitat to a large-screen TV within the center. This rustic building provides a great place to bring the family or to take a break from angling. Bus tours, schools, and other groups are welcome. The centre is wheelchair accessible. Outdoor picnic tables and parking areas are available. Thanks to the efforts of community volunteers who nursed the abandoned hatchery through a lean decade. There is every reason to believe that it will go on replenishing this treasured salmon fishing river for a century to come.

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Renowned Margaree celebrated at Salmon Museum

The Margaree River is one of the world’s renowned salmon-fishing rivers. At the Salmon Museum in Northeast Margaree the history and art of the sport of salmon fishing have been documented and will provide an interesting introduction to the region known as “the Margarees.” The Margarees, besides offering visitors the tranquil beauty of green valleys and blue river, is also a destination for other reasons. The Margarees offer much to those who just wish to drive and drink in the scenery. From the intertwining roads of Margaree Valley, to the pastoral serenity of Margaree Forks, to the rugged beauty of Margaree Harbour on the Gulf of St. Lawrence, the word Margaree in a place-name should be enough to convince the most hurried of visitors to slow down and enjoy a visit to this unique part of Inverness County. In its early days, freight for the entire Margaree Valley came through Margaree Harbour. Trade was busy


in the harbour as steamers and tall ships went to and fro, and the road was lined with dozens of horse carts ready to haul puncheons (70-gallon casks) of molasses and other goods overland to St. Ann’s, a distance of nearly 100 km. Taverns rollicked with boisterous customers, and in winter, men came from as far away as Judique, Port Hood, Mabou, and Inverness to race their horses on the ice. Today, Margaree Harbour is a small fishing community that enjoys the happenstance of lying where two scenic drives meet the Cabot Trail and the Ceilidh Trail. The dock at the harbour is on the north side of the river, accessed through Belle Côte, and is lined with lobster boats and charter boats that take people out for deepsea sport fishing, whale-watching, or bird-watching on Margaree Island. Margaree Harbour’s past still lives in the architecture of its traditional farmhouses, and the low, sturdy profiles of buildings along the waterfront. Apparently, they were built this way to brace against sou’wester gales (known locally as suêtes) which legend says have been known to blow cattle through ships’ sails. From Margaree Harbour, your choice of driving on the east side of

the river or the west side will take you to “the Forks,” from which the traveller can head south to the Ceilidh Trail and Inverness, or east to the valley and North East Margaree.

M argaree S a l mon M useum

60 East Big Intervale Road, N.E. Margaree. 248-2848/248-2765/248-2623. Exhibits relate to salmon angling on the Margaree River. Excellent collections of fishing tackle, photos and memorabilia of famous anglers. Open June 15 - Oct. 15, 9 a.m. - 5 p.m. Adm: Adult $2 Children $1.

Lakes Restaurant • cottages • camping • canoe rentals and • mini-golf • Go Carts

Call 248-2360 for bookings North East Margaree We take MasterCard, Visa & Debit

O P e n 7 Days a W eek

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

Acadian Shore

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Unmasking tradition: The Acadian shore features la Mi-Carême Centre

The French names for these energetic communities, Belle Côte, Terre Noire, St. Joseph du Moine, and Grand Etang, which look so peaceful, carry within them the stories of hundreds of refugees who were expelled from their long-settled lands in the mainland of Nova Scotia in the mid1750s. Many people were transported back to France, others to England and the United States or Prince Edward Island. But the promise of land of their own which could not be taken from them, and the lure of a living to be made from the land and the sea, brought them to this area. Today, after two hundred years they maintain their language, their songs, their dancing, and their customs. Among those customs is the MiCarême, a centuries-old, mid-Lenten holiday from the rigours of the once strict fasting and penance that preceded Easter. While the custom of dressing up in disguises and visiting neighbours for an evening of food and music had been lost in many of the Acadian communities in Atlantic Canada, the Acadians of northern Inverness County have always maintained this cheerful tradition. No place depicts the Acadian achievement of thriving survival like the newly opened Mi- Carême Centre. Located on the harbourfront at Grand

Brown’s Bruaich na H’Aibhne Housekeeping

Suites & COTTAGES Your hosts: John & Alice Brown

seasonal • Cottages • Laundry Facilities

1-800-575-2935 Margaree Centre, Inverness Co., NS 3 1/2 miles off the Cabot Trail

Website: Browns or email:

Etang, the centre is a vivid introduction to this joyous and colourful Acadian celebration. In the MiCarême Centre visitors can get a tour, guided if so wished, of the history of the tradition while examining the many costumes and masks that have kept the Mi-Carême a living tradition today. The centre features works of imagination that include popular faces, monsters, mythological creatures and the tender rendering of familiar Acadians who have been the tradition-bearers in recent generations, helping keep the MiCarême alive. The centre also offers mask-making workshops that may interest visitors, some of which can be joined in spontaneously, others requiring enrolment. Among the many masks on display at the centre is one of a friar’s head, a now eroded rock formation that inspired the name of St. Joseph du Moine. The other names along the Acadian Shore celebrate the beautiful shoreline, the black earth and the large


housekeeping Cottages

A home away from home in Margaree Forks on the Cabot Trail

Ph. 248-2494 1-866-511-2494

pond. While the wind blows from the ocean with considerable vigour, it is the blast from the mountains which is most severe. Called suête winds (Acadian word for southeast, sud est), the winds can blow so hard that traffic stops. One news report quoted a resident during a suête as saying, “We’re not going to get any of the courier trucks or armoured trucks coming here today. They won’t come down because it’s dangerous for them to tip over.” The suête is an experience! So is the Mi-Carême Centre.

Margaree Harbour Craft & Gift Shop Follow the sheep signs!

902-235-2824  Blankets  Yarns  Sweaters  Handcraft Items  Music  Souvenirs  Sheepskins 10042 Cabot Trail, Margaree Harbour Email:

River Trail Cottages Housekeeping cottages for vacationing, fishing, snowmobiling, with walking trails to river, tranquil setting, and gorgeous view of mountains.

Margaree Centre 902-248-2102

On the Cabot Trail at Margaree Harbour, overlooking the Margaree River, a Canadian Heritage River. • 24 Motel Units • Licensed • Air-conditioned Dining Room Enjoy our Sunday Brunches

1-800-565-9993 Tel. 902-235-2658 Fax 902-235-2592 email:

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* Sumptuous Dining with Spectacular Scenery * Licensed Bistro with Outdoor Patio * Many local outdoor activities such as ... Golfing Whale Watching Hiking and Canoeing

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012


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Month-long Le Festival de l’Escaouette highlights Cheticamp’s Acadian culture, beauty June 30th features the Great Cheticamp- Out

A camp-out, billed as the Great Cheticamp-Out, takes place at Robert’s Brook Group Campground in Cheticamp. Organizers say, “Bring your own tent and we’ll provide the backdrop.” That backdrop is one of the most wondrous sights in Cape Breton, the Cape Breton Highlands themselves. The evening will include a campfire around which stories will be told, songs will be sung, and the peacefulness of the place will lull you to sleep. Wake up fresh in the morning to find local vendors on site with fresh coffee and baked goods. (For more information phone 902-224-2306.)

Canada Day celebrations are a family event One July 1st, Canada Day, Cheticamp celebrates the nation’s birthday by inviting everyone to La Rigouèche in the Cape Breton National Park. The park entryway is just north of the village and offers stunning space for this kind of celebration. The day will begin with flag raising at 2 p.m., followed by musical entertainment, a barbecue, and activities for children. It is a wonderful family event, so bring yours along.

Belle View

Restaurant Belle Cote, NS Hours: 11am-8pm Daily


• Grilled Steaks • Ribs • Seafood • Chowders • Hot Sandwiches • Salads & Desserts • Lobster In Season • Licensed • Children’s Menu • A/C • Senior Menu

LAcabie Cheticamp Shuttle Service

We offer safe, reliable and affordable service to get you where you need to go. Pre-booking is required.Prices and destinations vary.

For more information please contact Sheila McEvoy @ 224-1203 or 222-5069

Visit Chéticamp’s

Museum of the Hooked Rug and Home Life • Gallery of Hooked Rugs • Visitor Information Centre • Gift Shop • Genealogy Centre

Tel. (902) 224-2642 15584 Cabot Trail, Chéticamp


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Le Festival de l’Escaouette: This summer, the Acadian village of Cheticamp will be offering visitors a month of festival activities, celebrating all through the prime cut of the tourism season, from mid July until its August 15th closing event on the Feast of the Assumption, the National Day of the Acadians.

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

Throughout the entire summer, Cheticamp has attractions, events and cultural experiences for visitors to enjoy. Those offerings include original Acadian music, drama and comedy, cultural artisans and cuisine, hiking thrilling trails, watching whales breach beside the craft in which you were afloat, in visiting galleries and museums and learning about and enjoying the sheer magic of

Acadian folklore. Between July 15th - August 15th, with the celebration of the four-week-long Festival de l’Escaouette, the village vibrates with the intensity of Acadian pride expressed through artistic venues. The flagship of the festival will be two original musicals, performed on the stage of la Place des arts Père-Anselme-Chiasson performance centre, a quality concert venue.

Two musicals highlight month-long festival – July 15 - August 15 En direct de la campe - En direct de la Campe (Live from the Camp) will be performed nightly (except Tuesdays) between July 15th-30th. This locally created production combines music, theatre, dance and song, all celebrating the contributions of Acadians from Cheticamp to the cultural richness of the community. Some of the artists and other contributors have made their mark within the village itself; others have carried the beauty of the Acadian experience in song and dance to other parts of Canada, into the USA and across the Atlantic to Europe. In experiencing this production which is certain to sweep the audience up in its poetry and energy what becomes clear is that many of the young performers paying tribute to those who have gone before them are, themselves, Acadian artists whose accomplishments will also be celebrated some day in Cheticamp and beyond. The presentation begins at 7:30 p.m.

La soirée chez Gélas Begins Nightly 7:30 pm

La Soirée Chez Gélas is an incredible Acadian kitchen party which is remounted on a regular basis because of its ongoing popularity with both local and visiting audiences. It will be performed nightly (except Tuesdays) between August 4th - 15th, and showcases the talents of a large cast. People begin to arrive at the home of Gélas, welcomed by his wife, barely tolerated by Gélas, but despite the host’s reluctance, an energetic Acadian house party breaks out, with fiddles, songs, dances, humour and stories. Its live soundtrack carries everyone along until even audience members feel invited. This is a performance that is quickly becoming a classic portrayal of a traditional Acadian house party.

Wabo’s pizza

Tel: 902-224-1242 Fax: 902-224-1770 E-mail:




Fully Licensed Outdoor Patio Licencié avec Terrace Seafood Fruits de Mer

(except Tuedays)

Bilingual Service Bilingue

Cheticamp Nova Scotia

• Dollar Items • Beach & Camping Supplies • Souvenirs • Greeting Cards • Gifts and Film

Italian Cuisine ~ Cuisine Italienne On the Boardwalk - Situé sur la Promenade

15876 Central Avenue, Inverness Ph. 902-258-3009 15 Main Street, Cheticamp Ph. 902-224-1827

Cheticamp 224-3756 Main Street / rue principale

Open 7 Days a Week

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

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Overlooking Chéticamp Harbour’s Beautiful Sunsets. Magnifiques couchers de soleil avec vue de la mer. Toll Free 1.855.292.1794 15050 Cabot Trail, PO Box 488, Cheticamp, NS, B0E 1H0 Tel. /Fax 902-224-1794

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C h e t i camp Inn Outfitters

& Bed & Breakfast 13938 Cabot Trail Rd., Cheticamp

6 Rooms



Mr.Chicken & Ice Cream Bar

The Ultimate Taste - Own Recipe -

Picnic tables overlooking Cheticamp Harbour on the Cabot Trail

Tel. 224-2975

Le Festival de l’Escaouette includes a dizzying calendar of events ranging from parades to concerts to musicals. Offering such an ambitious program, organizers expect to keep the seats full with visitors, parents, friends, neighbours, and those who journey home each summer to join in the fun and frolic of this cultural festival. That’s been the case in summers past. “We hope that these celebrations will provide an opportunity to discover our cultural heritage, to renew old acquaintances and to develop closer bonds of friendship,” explains one of the many organizers. The extensive festival itself happens because the volunteers from within the community number in the hundreds.

Gala concert celebrates Cheticamp’s youth

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012 two performances that evening, at 6:30 p.m. and again at 9:00 p.m.

Wanna make some noise? Join the Tintamarre parade on August 15th. Drawing Festival de l’Escaouette to a close on the evening of August 15th, National Acadian Day, will be a Tintamarre, or noise parade beginning at 7:00 p.m. Everyone is invited to participate, to bring some source of noise, costume, makeup and Acadian colours. The parade will form on the grounds of Église Saint-Pierre (St. Peter’s Church), and promises to bring a memorable end to a full month of music, food, performances, laughter and promises to do it all again next year. Ticket Outlet

Throughout Cape Breton island there seems to be an endless stream of gifted young performers ready to take the stage, and Cheticamp is no exception. For decades, youth programs in music, dance and drama have nurtured talents that have won the hearts of audiences. On Sunday evening, August 5th, Festival de l’Escaouette’s annual Le spectacle Gala du Festival this year focuses on the village’s youth with the presentation, Célébrons notre jeunesse. Célébrons notre jeunesse will feature multi-talented performers from the Acadian region in and around Cheticamp. The performance will take place in la Place des arts Père-Anselme-Chiasson. There will be

People are strongly urged to purchase their tickets in advance for all shows of Le Festival de l’Escaouette. The ticket outlet is located at École NDA (school) in Chéticamp. Hours of operation for the ticket outlet are: Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday (from 5:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m.). The ticket outlet is closed on Tuesday. You can also purchase your tickets for all festival events by calling Le Conseil des arts de Chéticamp at (902) 224-1876. For information, email:

 


5 July 1

August 15


Fête nationale des Acadiens


et plein d’autre fun!

Join us in la belle région de Chéticamp for two full months of activities during Le Festival de l’Escaouette For more information on shows, events and activities pick up your 2012 Chéticamp Visitors Guide or visit


Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

Page 63

~ Where’s the music? ~ Doryman Pub & Grill Talent Night Every Thursday evening. Fiddle music every Wednesday evening and Sunday afternoon. Country Rock music every Saturday night.

Parkview Motel Restaurant and Bar Music during July and August.

All Aboard Restaurant Fiddle music every evening. AMAC (Association musical acadienne de Chéticamp)

Ashley MacIsaac

Amateur Music Circle every Tuesday night from 7-10 p.m. at Kinsmen Hall, Belle Marche.

Le Gabriel Restaurant and Lounge Acadian music Sunday to Friday (7-9 p.m.) Free admission. Music by local groups every Saturday evening, June, July, August and September.

Les Amis du Plein Air Acadian and Scottish Concert on July 16th and 30th, and on August 13th, 8:00 p.m. at Visitors’ Centre of Cape Breton.

Le Moyne

Located on the

Beautiful Cabot Trail 15086 Main St., Cheticamp

* Groceries * Produce * Meats and ...

so much more!

Tel 902-224-2077 Fax: 902-224-1818 Toll Free 1877 220 2077

Open - Monday - Friday 8 - 8 Saturday 8 - 5 & Sunday 11 - 5 Grand Etang, NS 902-224-3335


Welcome to the

Doryman Beverage Room Thursdays (9 pm-12 am) Talent Night

lounge hours Mon.-Fri........10 am - 12 am Saturday ..... 10 am - 2 am Sunday ........ 12 pm - 9 pm

Saturdays (2-6pm) Fiddle Saturdays (10pm-2am) Live Band / DJ

summer grill hours Mon.-Sat ........ 12 pm - 9 pm Sunday ............ 3 pm - 8 pm

Check in with us for the Summer Wednesday , Friday & Sunday Night Entertainment Lineup!

Entertainment Nights Grill Open til 10 pm

15528 Cabot Trail, Cheticamp, NS B0E 1H0 The Doryman Beverage Room is a true “destination” of people who love good times, good friends and great entertainment. We offer fabulous food, great prices and great entertainment for visitors to our area and to well-known friends alike. You will arrive as a friend and leave as if you are a member of our extended family. We welcome you to come out, and enjoy yourself at the world-famous “Doryman”.

Telephone: (902)224-9909


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Le Portage Golf Course is unique! Chéticamp’s 18-hole Le Portage Golf Course offers an extraordinary chance to play your favorite sport in a majestic decor on the rugged shores of the Gulf of St. Lawrence located on the famous Cabot Trail and only minutes from the Cape Breton Highlands National Park. This marvelous golf course also gives you the opportunity of getting in closer touch with the people of this genuine Acadian village and its history. In fact, each hole of this course has a typical French Acadian name and a plaque relating, in French and English, places of ecological and historical interest, the unique style of life of this community, its French Acadian culture and language dating from the 16th century. The realization of a long-term vision was unveiled with the completion of the back nine in the spring of 1998 at Le Portage Golf Club in Cheticamp. Since 1975, when the seeds were planted with the possibility of creating a world-class golfing experience to promote tourism and for the recreation and enjoyment of golf enthusiasts, dedicated people have nurtured and tirelessly promoted the vision. A project of this magnitude must have the unwavering support of the community and Chéticamp citizens, organizations and groups who have been the mainstay of this phenomenal project, which catapults the community onto the mainstage for tourism potential and longevity of the season for business operators.

The view of the #1 fairway of Le Portage Golf Course

Le Portage Golf Club 18 Hole championship layout

The Gem of Cape Breton Golf “We are the Mountians, Wind & Sea” • • • •

Phone 902-224-3338 ... Fax 902-224-1165

toll free 1-888-618-5558

All Players Welcome Championship Driving Range Club & Cart Rentals Stay & Play Packages

Email: find us on Facebook

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

Page 65

L’Église St-Pierre: a Chéticamp labour of love Miles away from Chéticamp, the Catholic church is visible. L’Église St-Pierre is a landmark that catches a visitor’s eye and holds it. From a distance, it is magnificent. From its elevated position on a small hill, the steeple appears to tower above the village. Closer viewing does nothing to dispel the first impression. While it is not on the scale of a European cathedral, it is a building that inspires awe. The massive Roman style of its exterior, which contrasts with the delicate, intricate woodworking inside, contributes to its reputation as one of the most beautiful churches in the Maritimes. It is both a tourist attraction and central to the lifestyle of this Acadian community. To the Chéticamp Acadians, the church is a triumph of hard work, pride and the spirit of faith. Work on l’Église St-Pierre began in 1893 with architect D. Ouellet of Québec and with construction directed by H. Morin of Trois Pistoles, Québec. When the sacristy was completed, the first mass was celebrated there on December 18th, 1893. The high altar in the sacristy came from l’Église du Buttereau, as does the bell. The bell is named Marie, and its powerful notes can be heard over long distances. Stones from Chéticamp Island were hauled across the harbour on the ice by groups of parishioners. The Robins, who were owners of the island, donated the building material, while the parishioners furnished mortar, wood and manpower. For seven years during the


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Books ~ ~ Souvenirs Available by Mail Order Open 7 Days a Week E-mail: Website: 8 a.m. - 10 p.m. P.O. Box 1005, Cheticamp, NS B0E-1H0 2 miles south of Cheticamp on the Cabot Trail


construction, the churchyard became a construction site where many parishioners expended great effort and labour. At the time, the bricklayers from Québec were paid $2 a day while other employees received 50 cents a day. But much labour was donated. The people of Chéticamp still recall with astonishment the length, depth and width of the ditches required to hold the foundations of the huge building which was 212 feet long and 74 feet wide. In 1900, the church was completed at a cost of $41,950. It now seats 900 people downstairs. But the expense and work were far from over. The church was painted and decorated in 1919 at the cost of $19,000. In 1957, the church was repainted and redecorated, with frescoes and stained glass windows added. The church was last painted in 1989. A new roof was added in 1977 at the cost of $40,000. And the original steeple, which rose to 167 feet, had to be replaced with a new fibreglass steeple. On the beautiful Quai This was built between Mathieu Boardwalk that 1982 and 1985 at the cost stretches along much of of $160,000 with Marcellin Cheticamp’s waterfront, Roach as contractor. Le Marché des fermiers The organ, one of the (Farmers’ Market) is held first Cassavants, was from 9 a.m. - noon. This acquired in 1904 and is still market offers produce, in excellent condition. artisans’ work, food, and All this cost and labour the leisurely comfort of just were considered well walking along a portion worth it by the Chéticamp of Cheticamp harbour. In people for whom l’Église inclement weather, the St-Pierre is testimony to market is held at the nearby Acadian strength in faith Acadian Centre. and community.

Spend Saturday morning at the Farmers’ Market

Lobster Dinners and the largest selection of

Seafood on the Cabot Trail

Cheticamp 224-1717 Open Year Round 7 Days a Week

Full Menu - Homestyle • Children’s Menu Serving breakfast daily starting at 6:30 a.m. - Licensed - Air Conditioned

Plumbing and Electrical

Offering great savings Hours: Mon. to Fri. 8 a.m. - 5 p.m. and Sat. 8 a.m. - Noon 14803 Cabot Trail - ChéticampTel. 224-2100 Fax: 224-3155

Restaurant Evangeline


902-224-2044 15150 Main Street, Cheticamp

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Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

Elizabeth LeFort Gallery showcases the art of the hooked rug The Elizabeth LeFort Gallery in the Les Trois Pignons building in Chéticamp is a showcase for the art of rug-hooking. Several large tapestries by LeFort, an internationally celebrated rug-hooker whose works have hung in such prestigious settings as the White House and the Vatican, are on display. The art and craft of rug-hooking became an important cottage industry for the Acadian village when, during the Depression, each home became a workshop

for rug-hooking. Men, women and children all contributed their talent and eventually a cooperative movement was founded for the industry. Since then, the art form has risen to great heights. At first, the rugs were very simple articles, used at home and made with old rags called “breillons.” Today, hooked rugs are wonderful works of art and are sold in local and foreign craft shops. Les Trois Pignons (The Three Gables), an eighteenth-century-style build-

Les Cabines du Portage PHARMACIE ACADIENNE Prescriptions Giftware

Open Seven Days a Week



Tel: 902-224-2822 Geraldine Bourgeois

15660 Cabot Trail, PO Box 1023, Cheticamp, NS,B0E 1H0

ing, is Chéticamp’s cultural, information, genealogical and community centre, and houses a gallery of hooked rugs, as well as a museum with the extensive collections of Marguerite Gallant, whose foresight decades ago rescued many artifacts that would otherwise have become lost. Her collection now provides the basis of the Marguerite Gallant Museum.

6/49 Cheticamp 902-224-2055

While Elizabeth LeFort, who was renown as Canada’s “artist in wool,” is the widest known of the Chéticamp rug-hookers, many others have also mastered the form, and their work can be seen and the art form itself demonstrated at Les Trois Pignons, at Cooperative Artisenale, an artisans’ cooperative in Chéticamp, and at Flora’s Gift Shop.


LeMoyne 902-224-2015

15089 Cabot Trail,

13101 Cabot Trail

Cheticamp, NS B0E 1H0

Grand Etang, NS B0E 1L0

toll free 1-877-477-7724

toll free 1-866-364-2136

ATM (Guichet Automatique)

LeBlanc’s General Store Camping & Fishing Supplies Ice & Wood Last Store Before National Park

Cheticamp 224-2771 • Organic Bulk • Organic Dairy and • Free Range Meats

Atm Machine HOURS: 7:30-11:00 pm Petit Etang, Nova Scotia Tel.224-1302

• • • • • • •

Page 67

Rug Hooking demonstrations Hooked rugs (all sizes) d Winni r Quality Souvenirs a Cape Breton Tourism Association Pottery • Pewter Best Craft Shop Entrepreneur Award Jewelry Chatelaine Best Craft Shop Clothing/T-shirts Cr in Cape Breton p Ice Cream Parlour a ft S h o


Cape Breton Handcrafts


Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

Flora’s keeps the Cheticamp

hooked rug tradition alive, and local artists in wool have distinguished themselves through the perfection of their craftsmanship. We have a vast variety of specialty crafts and gifts.

On the Cabot Trail Travel the majestic Cabot Trail


for the best views and best shops.

Chéticamp, Cape Breton, Nova Scotia Telephone: (902)224-3139 Fax: (902)224-1213

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Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

Too intriguing to pass through - Cheticamp originally settled by 14 Acadian families

After travelling down the Ceilidh Trail and resting in Margaree for the night, a group of young American cyclists were eager to “do” the Cabot Trail. As the first ray of sun broke the sky, the group started their journey along the coastline to Chéticamp. It was in this colourful village that their eager pace was halted and their careful plans fell by the wayside. “Chéticamp was too

intriguing to just pass through,” said one young biker. “We had to slow it down.” A combination of things made up their pleasant diversion and sidetrack. The first thing that slowed down their eager pace was Chéticamp’s majestic scenery of valleys and hills, capes and plateaus, and sea and mountains. Also intriguing for those who care to explore the history of communities is that Chéticamp is a story of triumph over tragedy. In 1755 conquering British soldiers forced thousands of Acadians onto transports and shipped them out of Nova Scotia to various parts of the world. Many eventually found their way back. Among those who returned were 14 families who came to the area that would become known as Chéticamp with their distinctive language and

special way of life. (The area’s name and spelling has been modified over the years to become what is now known as Chéticamp. Some say that the name is French in origin, from the words “Chéti” and “camp” meaning a poor encampment. More recent research indicates that the name “Cheticamp” originates with the Mi’kmaq First Nation which called the area Aotjatotg, pronounced Aoutcha-doutch which mean “rarely full.” The spelling changed over the years to become Ochatisia or Ochatis. The French and Acadians pronounced it Le Chaddy, le Grand Chaddy, Chadigan and Chaticon. Finally, it reached its present form, Chéticamp, which was first recorded in the parish register on May 13, 1815.) When the first settlers arrived, a poor, harsh encampment may have been what they found. The winds were strong and dangerous, the woods were dense, and neighbours were scarce. But before becoming an inhabited village, Chéticamp

was a fishing station during the summers. Fishermen lived in cabins along the Chéticamp coast as early as 1752. But these were only temporary settlers. Then two families, those of Pierre Bois and Joseph Richard, became the first permanent settlers to the Chéticamp area in 1782. In 1785 and the year that followed, the larger contingent arrived to populate the area. By 1820 Chéticamp’s population totalled 784. Today, with great rivers for salmon and trout fishing and great spots for picnics and overnight outings in the Cape Breton Highlands National Park, it’s hard to believe that Chéticamp was ever considered a poor campsite.


St-Pierre Roman Catholic (Chéticamp) 224-2064 St. Joseph’s Roman Catholic (St. Joseph du Moine) 224-3333

Overlooking Cheticamp Harbour...

Spectacular Sunset Dining

depuis 1959

since 1959

• Home-style baking daily • Breads • Rolls • Sweets . Sandwiches . . Wi-Fi available .

with homestyle meals, fresh seafood, steaks, pastas, our fresh baked bread, delicious desserts & much more!

Friendly Staff, Amazing Scenery, Great Value!

We cater to large functions

Aucoin’s Bakery Ltd. 902-224-3220 Cheticamp, NS Email:

Can’t Wait to see you! Fully Licensed

15559 Cabot Trail, Cheticamp,NS 902.224.3888

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

CBH National Park

Page 69

30 different hiking trails in the national park

The largest wilderness area is the western portion of Cape Breton Highlands National Park where the internationally acclaimed Cabot Trail provides thrilling panoramic views of the coastline and cuts into the heart of the highland plateau. There are 30 different hiking trails in the park, many of them located on the western side

along Cap Rouge, French Mountain, MacKenzie Mountain and North Mountain. Fishing Cove Trail follows a rushing stream to a tiny ocean inlet where there is a wilderness camping area. The Skyline Trail overlooks both the Cabot Trail and the Gulf of St. Lawrence from a height of 420

metres. Benjie Lake Trail leads to a shallow plateau lake where moose come to feed in the evening. MacIntosh Brook Trail is a short, easy hike along the brook to a waterfall. There are five more hiking trails located at the park entrance at Chéticamp which also has a nature bookstore and photographs of the flora and fauna of the park.

Provincial local trails Besides the national park, there are several provincial day-use parks that offer opportunities for outdoor recreation as well as sandy beaches along the scenic coastline. W h y c o c o m a g h Provincial Park, on Trans Canada 105, has a large campground on a hillside overlooking Whycocomagh Bay. A short, steep, hiking trail goes to the top of Salt Mountain for a panoramic view of the lake and

surrounding woodlands. On the other side of the highway is a wooded picnic park where a staircase leads to the water’s edge. Trout Brook Park, at Lake Ainslie on Route 395, has a beautiful white sandy beach on the shores of the lake. Swimming, boating and board-sailing are popular, and waters support a large population of brook trout and white perch. There are also smaller day-use parks at Mabou, Southwest Margaree and Long Point on Route 19, the Ceilidh Trail.


Unfortunately, the rugged hiking trails in the Mabou Highlands on trails that skirt the high capes of the shoreline south of Inverness and come out at the picturesque Mabou Coal Mines are closed because of severe fire hazards.

Family Restaurant and Sports Lounge Unsurpassed Acadian Hospitality and Cuisine! Great Acadian Dishes • Seasonal Fresh Seafood •Fully Licensed Service • Free Use of Pool Tables Non-Smoking • Air Conditioned • Mini-Casino • Live Acadian Music • Free Wi-Fi • Outdoor Patio • Dining Bilingual Service

ials on Watch for our spec ab! cr d fresh lobster an

The best seafood ch owder in the Maritimes!

15424 Cabot Trail - Chéticamp, Nova Scotia • Tel.: 902-224-3685 • Cell: 902-224-5284 • Fax: 902-224-1178 • Email:

Pleasant Bay Page 70

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

pleasant Bay promises visitors a whale of a time Gampo Abbey

Pleasant Bay is a century-old fishing village

located on the Cabot Trail approximately fifteen miles from Cape North and about twenty-five miles from Cheticamp. It offers a picturesque shoreline with numerous cliffs and inlets including Fishing Cove and Polletts Cove, many of which can be seen while taking a popular whale cruise out of Pleasant Bay harbour. Complementing the whale cruises, or in preparation for enjoying one, a visit to Pleasant Bay’s Whale Interpretation Centre can be both informative and entertaining. It features film and facts about the many whales that inhabit the Gulf of St. Lawrence and the North Atlantic. Hanging high above visitors is a full-scale model whale, but this is not a generic pilot whale. A look at his dorsal fin indicates a definite hook in its shape. The whale is named Hook because of it, but more important, Hook is a very real pilot whale that frolics often off the coast of Pleasant Bay, so whale watchers stand a chance of seeing this popular creature breach and roll in the Atlantic waters. The whale interpretation centre offers information, a short film on the relationship

an oasis of peace

A model of a very real pilot whale, Hook, whom whale watchers may encounter in the waters around Pleasant Bay between whales and humans, and a gift shop, not to mention a helpful staff filled with their own stories of whales and sightings. The presence in Pleasant Bay of the whale interpretive centre and the enjoyment of a cruise amid the massive, friendly creatures combine for an experience certain to become a lifelong cherished memory.

Pleasant and pleasurable amenities Pleasant Bay is a century-old fishing village, not very commercialized, and that is something that makes the community so attractive to the visitors. There are numerous activities one can do that do not cost anything; such as swimming in the warm waters, sitting on the beach, watching a sunset or taking a hike. Many tourists enjoy walking along the docks and, if the timing is right, seeing the fishing boats being unloaded and talking to the workers who are more than willing to answer questions. Pleasant Bay has restaurants, two motels, gift shops, a takeout, two bed & breakfasts, as well as boat tours. Two of the staff at one of the gift shops are recipients of Ambassador Awards in recognition of exceptional effort towards visitors.

Les Amis du Plein Air

nature bookstore Located in Cape Breton Highlands National Park Information Centre, Cheticamp

Nature Books and topo maps

The stupa or Buddhist shire is located near Gampo Abbey, along Pleasant Bay’s Red River Road. Gampo Abbey is the only Tibetan Buddhist monastery in Canada. It is occupied year-round by monks and nuns and frequented by Buddhist practitioners who come to the abbey for instruction and retreats. It is worth checking when the abbey is open to visitors, offering an opportunity to engage with some of the gentle monks, nuns and lay people who foster the continuing success of this spiritual centre.

Mid Trail Motel & Inn 1-800-215-0411

Enjoy our beautiful ocean-side rooms, award winning restaurant and nearby attractions.



Audubon and Peterson Field Guides Local Cultural History Cabot Trail Tour Cassettes and CDs Mail Orders Welcome. Tel. 902-224-3814

23475 Cabot Trail, Pleasant Bay, Cape Breton Island, N.S. B0E-2P0 Website; email:

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

Page 71

A visit to the Whale Interpretive Centre at Pleasant Bay is a great way to enhance your whale watching adventure. We have a gallery full of exhibits to introduce you to the world of the whales.

Telephone (902) 224-1411 Email: 104 Harbour Road Pleasant Bay, NS B0E 1P0

Meat Cove Page 72

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

Meat Cove offers a wonderful camping experience Meat Cove - a tiny hamlet at the very tip of Cape Breton Island, offers a wonderful camping experience on a cliff edge above where the Gulf of St. Lawrence and the Atlantic Ocean meet. Whether a visitor or a camper, you will be surrounded by the sound of the sea beating at the rock cliffs and by the

calling of seagulls and by the wind coming down from the surrounding mountains. Remote as it appears to be, Meat Cove is wired to the modern world through a C@P site where visitors can check or send e-mail, or surf for information from the world beyond Meat Cove, but why would you when you are immersed in an environment composed of ocean, mountains, trails, and the rugged beauty of Cape Breton Highlands? Overlooking the dramatic camp site at Meat Cove, a remote Meat Cove has community filled with activities, accomodations, food and legends. camping and which went down in the turbulent North Carvings have been recently located lodging facilities, Atlantic waters, or was it the abundant a full menu restaurant in the on stone in Meat Cove, symbols whose C@P site, and the recently supply of moose and caribou in the earmeaning remains a mystery, as does the ly days which gave this place its name? opened Ocean View Lodge. period when it was done. But for those who Stories vary, but the cove is still there. The very name of the place enjoy hieroglyphic puzzles, this is a fine Although the caribou are gone, carries within it legends of moose may still be seen, as well as the selection of seemingly primitive engravings the past. Was it slaughtered white-tailed deer. It is a place apart both animals in casks of salt to ponder over. coming ashore from a ship in its geography and in its aura.

Strange carvings on stone

Meat Cove is a tiny fishing village nestled in a sheltered cove at the Northern-most tip of Cape Breton Island; you will witness spectacular views of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, miles of rugged coastline and unsurpassed mountain landscape.

Meat Cove Internet Café

Hines’ Ocean View Lodge

Meat Cove Internet Café offers full menu service with some of the most delicious seafood around. You can have your choice of eating in or on their spacious deck alongside Meat Cove Brook. They also offer a boardwalk that takes you to Meat Cove Beach. Internet and laundry services are also available.

The Hines’ Ocean View Lodge offers 5 rooms, a full kitchen which all guests can use and 2 bathrooms, a large upper and lower deck with a barbeque, all providing an array of amenities and comforts of home. Each room can be rented individually or for larger groups or families.

2296 Meat Cove Rd., Meat Cove, NS. F/T: 902-383-2284/383-2281 E-Mail:

Hines’ Ocean View Lodge, Meat Cove, NS. T: 902-383-2562/383-2512 F: 902-383-2284 E-Mail:

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

Page 73

cheticamp Offering our customers friendly bilingual service, competitive pricing and a complete line of products in the following departments.

• Grocery • produce • bakery • meats • deli • Ice • camping supplies • Building Supplies Everyone Welcome - Bienvenue à tous

Main Street, Cheticamp

tel. 902-224-2066 fax.902-224-2382

Hours: 9-6 Monday,Tuesday & Wednesday 9-9 Thursday 9-5 Saturday

Page 74


6 3-1


• • • • • • •

Take 1st exit #34 into Antigonish (exit before lights) same exit as Ron MacGillivrays Chev Olds

Sunset Side of Cape Breton 2012

Home Decor

Quilts • Framed Art Accent Furniture Jim Shore Full service wedding Dishes registry Yankee Candles available Country Home Candles Willow Tree plus much more ....

Great brand names available • Tribal • Point Zero • FDJ Jeanswear • columbia • Levi’s • MEXX • SILVER JEANS

• Fast • Fresh and Friendly

6 Locations

to serve you


519 Grand Lake Road

Sydney Mines

1 Fraser Avenue

North Sydney 103 Kings Street Sydney River 1061 Kings Road Glace Bay 195 Reserve Street

gas bar and convenience store

Monastery 10125 Highway #4

gas bar and convenience store Agency Store

Sunset Side of Cape Breton Island  
Sunset Side of Cape Breton Island  

Annual visitor's guide for Inverness County, Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia