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I S S U E
OUR NEW BIRKENHEAD STORE IS NOW OPEN
BIRKENHEAD The Pyramids Shopping Centre, Birkenhead. CH41 2RA 0151 647 7370
LIVERPOOL The Metquarter, 35 Whitechapel Liverpool. L1 6DA 0151 255 0388
CHESTER 16 St Michaels Row, Grosvenor Shopping Centre, Chester. CH1 1EF 01244 312 043
#BehindTheCover PHOTOGR APHY Amy Faith MAKEUP Lucy Mckeown NAILS Elli Kershaw HAIR Nathan Bruce at Sassoon Salon, Liverpool STYLE Jurga Skeir y te MODEL Jess (La Moda Models) BEHIND THE SCENES PHOTOGR APHY Al Man VENUE Palm Sugar, Liverpool RETOUCHING David Zinyama
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#WorkingGirl See the hot tes t A/W 2014 arrivals in a beautiful fashion editorial photographed by Amy Faith.
#ThreeDresses #INSPO loves independent designers! Check ou t three different dresses from three local designers coming to life.
#NextVisions Two fashion gradua tes from Manches ter Metropoli tan University share their collections and future plans.
#UpClose Legendar y photographer Br uce Smi th talk s abou t his beginnings, inspiration and whatâ€™s impor tant in life.
#SummerRomance 12-page visual s tor y showcasing wha tâ€™s on trend in the beauty world this season.
2014 September | Issue 1 #INSPO 5
MASTHEAD Editor-in-Chief and Publisher
Beauty Editor and Writer
LUCY MCKEOWN Assistant Editor
ELIZABETH WARD Copy Editor BETH LUCY THOMPSON Writer and Stylist
KERRYN GRADY Layout Designer
KIRSTY AFFUL Illustrator
RUTA GYVYTE Contributing Photographers
BRUCE SMITH AMY FAITH ROB MCGRORY AL MAN Adver tising
#INSPO is published by Inspo Creative, Unit 10, 6th Floor, Gostins Building, 32-36 Hanover st, Liverpool, L1 4LN. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. Whilst every effort is taken, the publisher cannot take responsibility for omissions or errors. All prices and details are correct at the time of going to print. The publisher cannot take responsibility for change thereafter. Inspo Creative takes no responsibility for the advertising content and shall not be liable for any losses incurred regarding this advertising. The views and opinions expressed within this publication do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of the publisher. 3rd party contributors have all given warranty under contract that they own exclusive copyright of the material submitted. All rights reserved.
6 #INSPO Issue 1 | September 2014
A huge welcome to the very first issue of #INSPO! The theme of this issue is Big Bang, which is all about the beginning of something great. All of us who worked on this magazine believe that it is the beginning of something fantastic. We love fashion and beauty, in one form or another. We wanted to show the best of what the Nor th West has to offer in terms of fashion and beauty. We are all about diversity and people from completely different backgrounds coming together to create something beautiful. I believe that we have succeeded in delivering gorgeous fashion editorials where we have mixed the hottest A/W pieces from high-street brands with the creations of local independent designers. Amy Faith did an amazing job photographing Jess (La Moda Models) for the cover and as a working girl (star ting on p14). Additionally, Rob McGrory captured three different dresses from three local designers coming to life (star ting on p26). We haven’t forgotten men either (p22-25)! I hope that you will enjoy reading Bruce Smith’s interview as much as I enjoyed interviewing him (star ting on p38). I recorded the whole conversation and it was over ninety minutes long! Lucy had a really hard task of actually putting it on paper and having to cut some bits out of it to fit into the pages of the magazine because it was such a lovely story. Bruce is a truly talented photographer and you can really appreciate his work in our beauty editorial (star ting on p50), which was the first shoot we did for this issue and I had actual tears of happiness in my eyes while on set. I thoroughly enjoyed reading Kerryn’s ar ticle about two fashion graduates from Manchester Metropolitan University (p3236), who shared their inspirations and future plans, and we all wish them every success in the world! In the beauty section, overseen by the amazing Lucy, you can read about some great treatments and products to keep you looking and feeling great, and even how to recreate the makeup of our cover girl. We have many great plans in the pipeline for #INSPO and all of us hope that you, our readers, will enjoy this magazine and become its followers. I encourage you to visit our website frequently for your daily fashion and beauty fix and to follow us on social media. We would love to connect with you! Stay inspired, Jurga Editor-in-Chief
HashtagINSPOmagazine 2014 September | Issue 1 #INSPO 7
I adore fashion. It’s a dreamland of beautiful clothes, shoes and accessories. You get to play dress up whenever you want and be a par t of that fabulous world f illed with creativity. I have to be honest here: I don’t fully understand people who do not care what they put on their backs. I believe that an out f it can show your personality, send a certain message or even make an important statement. In my opinion, fashion is a true form of ar t and in its essence it is not about materialism at all. In this issue I wanted to showcase how to wear one of the biggest trends this season, normcore, at the off ice or a cocktail par ty, avoiding boring ballerinas or a pencil skir t and ill-f itting shir t combo. Technically, normcore is all about detail-free design. I, however, looked at this trend from a slightly more creative perspective and wanted to show that monotonous uniforms seen before 9am and after 5pm shouldn’t be so boring. You can still blend in and stand out at the same time. I am a big fan of high heels, but let’s be honest, they are rather painful, so why not ditch them once in a while and opt for running shoes (Chanel or Nike for more purse-friendly options). Wrap yourself in a fuzzy coat or a chunky knit; choose a classic mac for rainy days. Basic jeans or trousers haven’t hur t anyone either. Finally, finish the outfit off with a great bag and you are good to go! Jurga
Photo: Amy Faith
#OnTrend Autumn/Winter 2014 collections had everything to offer: from fuzzy shearling coats (Sacai, Burberry) and cozy sweaters (Michael Kors, Stella McCartney) for cold winter mornings, to subtle sheer evening gowns in every colour and pattern possible (Valentino, Vera Wang). Choose a monochrome trouser suit for the off ice (HermĂ¨s, Christopher Kane) or a dolly-bird dress paired with cool footwear for a chic daytime look (Louis Vuitton, Gucci).
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Illustrations: Ruta Gyvyte amoureusedemode.blogspot.co.uk
Nor mc ore
#MustRead Fa s h i o n P h o t o gra phy N ex t Magdalene Keaney (Thames & Hudson, £24.95) What book is better to be featured in the Big Bang issue than “Fashion Photography Next”, featuring 280 images from 35 emerging fashion photographers? Unlike so many other fashion photography books, “Fashion Photography Next” brings together young talent and introduces their work to a wider audience. The variety of photographic approaches and methods do not disappoint. Unifying visual trends can however be seen when flipping through the book. The photographs featured in this book are cutting edge, raw and dynamic; some of them might even be shocking. “Fashion Photography Next” looks beyond what is now - it showcases what is shaping the fashion of the future.
12 #INSPO Issue 1 | September 2014 FASHION | BEAUTY WWW.MCGRORYCREATIVE.COM
#Events LADIES FASHION LUNCH DATE: Friday, 3rd October 2014 VENUE: The Palace Hotel, Manchester TIME: 11:30am MORE INFO: www.sah.org.uk
FASHION AND LIFESTYLE EXHIBITION DATE: 11th and 12th October 2014 VENUE: EventCity, Manchester TIME: Saturday 9am till 8pm, Sunday 10am till 7pm MORE INFO: www.fashionandlifestyleexhibition.co.uk
CELEBR ATION OF STYLE DATE: 13-15th November 2014 VENUE: Various locations in Liverpool TIME: TBC MORE INFO: www.celebrationofstyle.co.uk
LIVER POOL FASHION AND LIFESTYLE EVENT BY CHIC NET WOR KING DATE: Sunday, 30th November 2014 VENUE: Hilton hotel, Liverpool TIME: 3pm MORE INFO: www.chicnetworking.co.uk
Photography Amy Faith Style
Hair Nathan Bruce Sassoon Salon, Liverpool
Venue Palm Sugar Liverpool
Jess La Moda Models
(Same outf it worn in previous image) Jess wears Quilted Ovoid Coat, Warehouse, £78; Mesh Marble Jumper, Warehouse, £38; Silver Tribal Cuf f, Olivia Divine (Metquar ter, Liver pool), £20; Nav y High Wa i s t e d F l a r e Tr o u s e r s , H o u s e of Pe a r l ( w w w . houseofpearluk.com), £120.
Cable k ni t s wea t shir t, Ted Baker, £99; Diamond Jacquard J a c ke t , Te d B a ke r , £ 219 ; Diamond Jacquard Suit Trousers, Ted B aker, £129; Contras t Croc Shopper, Warehouse, £36; Metallic Leather Trainers, Warehouse, £55.
“I’m not gonna spend the res t of my life wor king my ass of f and getting nowhere just because I followed rules that I had nothing to do with setting up” Working Girl. 1988
Electric Blue Shot Silk Suit, The Dressing Room (L1), £260; Black Jeweled Necklace, Olivia Divine, £35; Silver Metallic Pixie Bag, The Leather Satchel, MRP £130.
Soft Jacket, Warehouse, £55; Francesca Knitted Vest, Reiss, £95; Edie Stitch Detail Crew Neck Jumper, Reiss, £79; Joanna Straight Leg Trousers, Reiss, £95; Skinny Torque, Warehouse, £8; Pony Hair Leather Slip On, Warehouse, £55.
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Stud Belted Mac, Warehouse, £ 85 ; Ju m p s u i t , A / W 20 1 4 collection, House of Pearl, £150; Single Bar Necklace, Warehouse, £10; Pony Hair Leather Slip On, Warehouse, £55.
e b o r d r a W s ’ n e #M ): Amelia May Smi th Photos (including p22-23 dels) Mo Model: Rob (La Moda yright: Debenhams cop hy rap tog pho t duc Pro
A/W 2014 is the season for cozy tur tle necks. Wear it casually under a quilted gilet or jacket. Cream Knitted Tur tle Neck Jumper. R e d Herring, £40
For those stylish occasions in every man’s life. Jacket, Hammond & Co. by Patrick Grant at Debenhams, £199
Slim f it trousers are probably the hardest to pull off, but you can’t go wrong wearing bulkier layers on top. Slim Trousers, Jeff Banks at Debenhams, £80 Quilted jackets were popular on the runway. Choose a slimmer cut – it will still keep you warm. For war m au tumn evenings try Quilted Gilet, J by Jasper Conran at Debenhams, £50
One of the strongest shoe trends for A/W is the brogue boot: stylish and practical. Brogue boots, Mantaray at Debenhams, £45
Inves t in a good-quali t y fel t fedora. It’s the IT accessory of the season. Fedora Hat, Osborne at Debenhams, £29.50
You won’t miss by choosing an oversized bag for gym, travel or ever yday use. Weekend Bag, Hammond & Co. by Patrick Grant at Debenhams, £180 22 #INSPO Issue 1 | September 2014
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Er i ca w e a r s Te al D r e s s , Mollie Brow n (w w w. molliebrow n.co.uk), £50; Aldga te Mini Grab B ag in Teal, Radley, £119; Lea ther brogue, Warehouse, £45. Model’s own under wear worn throughout.
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Cr e p e a n d s i l k - o r g a n z a dress, KU Spendlove, £240; Aldga te Mini Grab B ag in Black, Radley, £119.
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E v e n i n g Go w n , Ma r k Melia, price on request.
#N e x t V i s i o n s
WORDS AND STYLING: Kerryn Grady PHOTOGRAPHY: Al Man MODEL: Rio (La Moda Models) The increasingly prestigious Fashion Design course at Manchester Metropolitan University, which receives more and more applications every year, already has a number of success stories. For instance, Camilla Grimes won this year’s £1000 Creative Catwalk Award for her quirky cat-printed spor ts-inspired collection; and BA Hons student Marianne Callaghan won the Topman Design prize with a 15-piece capsule collection. I have managed to snaff le two fresh new graduates to talk to me about their life in fashion thus far, and share their final collections along with some words of wisdom. Twenty-two-year-old Mahwish Aurangzeb is a born and bred Manchester girl, who stayed in her home city to study, Saving precious pennies by living with her parents (the degree collections come in at between £2-3K to produce in the final year). Her collection is a vibrant confection of brightly printed silks, fringing and decadent sequins, inspired by Native American culture. After researching everything from their traditions to their poetry, she went on to pick out colours, prints and textures that she liked and the collection developed from there. Print is clearly Mahwish’s strength and her passion.The bold, abstract patterns star ted out as hand-drawn designs before she star ted experimenting with screen and digital printing. Patterns are printed over each other, and sheer fabrics are overlaid to give a softness to an otherwise strong colour palette. Two-tone sequins (the type you brush in one direction to reveal a contrasting colour – so much fun!) and metallic fringing add depth to the commanding colours and give the collection a glamorous, lux f inish. The silhouette is a f lattering mix of boxy, voluminous tops in f luid silk, paired with pencil skir ts and straight-legged trousers, with peek-a-boo cut-outs and scooped backs. It’s a fascinating combination of subtle flesh-flashing sex appeal and modest chastity (think prim, high collared necklines and full length sleeves). The clothes contrast starkly with Mahwish’s own style, which comprises primarily of a monochrome palette and classic Breton stripes. Her personal style is far removed from her designs, but she eloquently explains that her collection represents “the colours of her soul”. 32 #INSPO Issue 1 | September 2014
Fashion runs in Mahwish’s family’s blood, and she credits her parents for her love of the industry. Her father and uncle owned a studio in the Nor thern Quar ter in Manchester, working as pattern cutters and suppliers of men’s shir ts to high street favourites, Topman and River Island, whilst her mother was the family seamstress. Mahwish’s parents always look for ward to seeing her latest designs and creations, and their enthusiasm and suppor t of her career choice have helped nur ture this passion she has grown up with. Mahwish’s earliest fashion memories involve the joy she experienced from textiles and sewing classes at primary school - “I loved them, and my teachers were really helpful. It was hand sewing we star ted off with in primary school and I just loved it.” Mahwish quotes London-based Turkish designer Bora Aksu as one of her fashion heroes - “I think I’m drawn to him because in some collections he has produced, he has taken inspiration from his own culture and country, and created garments for modern British women, which I think works well.” Does she find herself doing the same thing (she was
born in Manchester, but her parents were born in Pakistan)? “Yes, in a way, except I like to research and have a keen interest in learning about other cultures, which is why I decided to do my collection on Native American culture. And yes, I try to make the garments have a British feel, which translates through the design process.” The students at MMU are encouraged to under take work placements during their holidays, but with the majority of design houses being based in London and the rental market being so expensive, unless you have friends or family living in the city, this isn’t always possible. Like many, Mahwish hasn’t had the oppor tunity to under take any internships, although now she has graduated, and her earnings from
a par t-time job in retail are no longer swallowed up by fabrics, expensive print techniques and laser cutting, she is hoping to gain some f irst-hand work experience, either in Manchester or London. The long-term plan is to jet off to Dubai, a country she fell in love with after visiting it a couple of years ago, where the women “really take pride in their appearance and have a cer tain elegance to the clothing they wear”. Mahwish wishes to set up her own label and live the dream of showing at London Fashion Week. Her message to #INSPO readers? “Believe in yourself, and trust the process.”
COUTURE HAIR DESIGN ALWAYS READY TO WEAR
1ST FLOOR METQUARTER 34 WHITECHAPEL LIVERPOOL L1 6DA 0151 227 1450
32 #INSPO Issue 1 | September 2014
Then there is Macclesfield-based Victoria Hordern, twenty-one, who feels as though she came around to the idea of working in fashion quite late in life, at the age of fourteen, during textiles at school. Her interest and talents were further encouraged at college by her tutor, Angela Devoti, who could see Victoria’s potential. In turn, Victoria’s admiration for her tutor is very apparent, smiling and becoming more animated as she talks about her. Deciding that she wanted to follow in her tutor’s footsteps, Victoria attended the MMU open day and knew this was the place for her. “Going to the open day sor t of conf irmed it for me. They spent so long with us explaining absolutely everything and answering all my questions which then solidified my choice of university”.
The pencil and mini skir t paired with ladylike blouses add femininity, while lightweight mesh fabrics and ribbed striped trims bring a spor ty element to the overall look. When asked if her designs inspire her own personal style, I’m met with a resounding yes! Although her staple style is generally quite androgynous, “Whatever concept I work on, I always seem to dress to match. With the concept of my collection being quite rough and masculine, involving stripes and quilts, I would dress in stripes and quilted jackets.” Victoria is fascinated by “all things considered bizarre”, and f inds inspiration through other gradua tes, cur rent trends, sur real and extraordinary ar tists, photographers and figures, including (whisper it) the late Margaret Thatcher (which is perhaps evident in the striped shir t and midi skir t co-ord suit). “I am inspired by pretty much anything that I think I can transform or portray in a different light.” And as someone who views fashion as a form of ar t, this attitude towards designing makes perfect sense. “When you look at ar t there are so many different genres and I believe that fashion designers are artists. You’re taking a raw concept and adding your own creative thought to it, moulding and shaping an ar t piece tailored to be worn on the body, making a statement and something that people can admire.”
Victoria’s collection was inspired by old school gypsy caravans, his and hers straitjackets from the Bedlam Museum, prisons and Charles Bronson. His face is proudly featured as a graphic print throughout the collection. “I got to see the old gypsy caravans and how incredible the decor was, it was all mash ups of floral, raggy, upholstery fabrics and colourful details. Back in the day it used to be such rough living and quite ’salt of the ear th’. I then went on to the Bedlam museum in London, where I was able to handle and photograph two 19th century straitjackets, which I fell in love with. They were so roughly made and oversized which I thought tailored in quite nicely with the gypsy theme. I then brought in the concept of prisons which led me to using Charles Bronson’s face as print and embroidery as well as utilising the ‘crude graphic’ pinstripe.” The collection has a distinctively unisex feel about it, with oversized outer wear (including a powder blue quilted bomber and a fabulous metallic and printed jacket) and mannish straight-legged trousers.
“Always believe something wonder ful is about to happen.”
Friday 3rd October 2014 The Palace Hotel, Manchester For more information or to book, please contact Jo Burton on 0161 498 3655
36 #INSPO Issue 1 | September 2014
Fashion show by
So what lies in store for this young designer? At the time of our interview she was waiting to see if she had been accepted for a six month internship in China at the Sino Centre, a hired out design company. Victoria is also interested in doing an MA, and has already been approached by Kingston University who were impressed by her collection at Graduate Fashion Week. In the shor t term, she is about to show her collection at the Royal Hor ticultural Show Tatton Park Ladies’ Day. This is a girl who lives by her own advice for #INSPO readers: “Always believe something wonderful is about to happen.” And believe we will. #
P U KE A M CE D N N A E FR pro.com H HIGFROMw.maq w w
...and Personal With Bruce Smith
INTERVIEW: Jurga Skeiryte WORDS: Lucy Mckeown PHOTOGRAPHY: Bruce Smith
Bruce Smith has been working as a fashion photographer for over 30 years. He has shot in some of the world’s most beautiful locations with the world’s most beautiful women. We caught up with Bruce to f ind out how he got bitten by the photography bug, and where he feels he is headed. Tell the readers a little about yourself...in short? In shor t? OK. About image making or personally? Personally! Personally, I am actually sor t of a simple person. I don’t mean that in my intelligence, but I am a simple man in what I need. Par t of the process of growing up, life brings cer tain things to you which develop you. Because of these things, you develop aspects of your personality, your dreams. The point this is leading to is for anyone reading this to understand what is behind the image. I don’t necessarily strive to be “in the business”, but I strive to be able to make images. The necessity for me to be able to take images is par t of me being able to understand things. Things that I either don’t naturally understand and want to explore, or things that I f ind a complete mystery. It is a par t of a learning curve of understanding the feminine and creating idealism. Through making images, these things become reality. The ideal becomes the real thing. When I am making images there is a cer tain desperation involved: desperation to make a good image as well as to fulf il my exploration. I need people to believe in the story. It has to be organic. And I am desperate to get that! [Laughter] The reason I am desperate to get this is because of my experiences through life. My passions. And they kind of shape you? They do shape you. Shapes you or you evolve with it. I don’t like to have things shaping my life; I like to shape my own life. Doing what I do means I am in control of these things. There is a non-conformist element in me so I have to keep doing what I am doing. I have to keep making images that work: for me, for clients, for commerce. It has to reflect all of those things. That’s from me personally.
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And is that one of your favourite parts of photography? The freedom? YES! The freedom is a very, very impor tant par t of why I love this. I think that stems again from the past and me as a person. I like to be free. I have a philosophy “don’t try and clip my wings!” and while I am doing what I am doing, I am free. For what I consider to be a ‘normal life’ I would have to clip my wings, bite my tongue, conform... be regular. I don’t mean that I am ‘irregular’, but I would have to be in routines. The very thought of being in that kind of world depresses the hell out of me. I am not physically or emotionally able to do that. So what’s the aspect of photography that you like the least? Marketing! [Laughter] There are aspects of marketing that I like, but I am not a strategist. I rely heavily on serendipity and the universe, as they are the things that seem to bring me my for tunes. By for tunes I mean I get to meet amazing people, travel to amazing places. I never make any money! But the other aspects far outweigh the money side. I absolutely love it! It is not possible to think or contemplate doing any thing else. There are a lot of people out there that fit in and conform, but they have a lot of unhappiness inside of them. I think you have to have freedom of mind to have freedom of spirit. Can you tell us a secret about yourself or something no one else knows? Even a fun fact! A secret?! OK. I am a voyeur! Not exactly a secret, but being a photographer you need to be an observer. I can sit for hours and hours and just observe people. In a café, or on the street. And I love to watch people who have something that makes them stand out. There’s no scandal I am afraid! You want scandal, you have to know me a lot better! First issue is the Big Bang...beginnings. So how did you start your career in photography? It was pure accident. I was one of those kids who spent his entire time staring out the window being told I would never make it. I had my head in the clouds. Histor y compresses stuff and makes a long story into a shor t story, and the shor t story is that it star ted with a career
Don’t try and clip my wings!
day in school. The way schools work, if you make cer tain grades, then you are guided towards cer tain paths. In this career talk, the teachers were telling us we would be plumbers, brick layers, tradesmen, you know?
winding up film, sweeping up, making tea and so on. It’s a par t of it though. Kids coming out of college now want to walk right to the top, but you need to assist and learn. It was a great experience.
They were telling us we would earn so much money which worked out at about £14 a week, which I was already making doing my after school jobs. So I thought, why should I do an apprenticeship? What’s the point? So I talked to my mother to try and f igure out what I should do, as I said, I have never been a strategist.
Anyway, I got sacked. [Laughter] I made a few errors. If I hadn’t, maybe I would still be there working as an employed photographer, doing the back end of catalogues? This is quite a long story isn’t it? To cut it shor t, I decided to open a little por trait studio and went back to college to do a purely photographic qualification. I learned a lot and decided that this is what I was going to stick to, although not doing
Kids coming out of college now want to walk right to the top, but you need to assist and learn.
My basic skills at the time were engineering and drawing. I had 3 options: architecture, a draughtsman or to go to ar t school. Ar t school sounded infinitely more fun. So I spent a summer painting and drawing to get a por tfolio together for an interview at Southpor t School of Ar t, and I got accepted on a foundation course there. I passed and became a junior graphic ar tist or ar t director, as they are now known. I learnt so much about the print world from this, and a big par t of the course was in the photography studio. So my work at the end had a lot of photography involved in it. As par t of the course local studios and industry people would come in and mark some of the work, and I was asked by someone if I would like to do some work in the studio. They did a lot of catalogue / commercial work. They did ever y thing, from the photography to the layout, so it was a finished product before it left the building. I hated that job! [Laughter] It was a lot of still life and all worked like a machine. It wasn’t about having a vision or a dream. It was a great machine, but it wasn’t creative. I spent a lot of time
por traits. I went to work in an adver tising agency and my job was to get work in for the studio. I wasn’t good at it and after two years I left, but while I was there I made sure I had designed my logo and stationary.
I had been testing and doing model por tfolios, and I got a break. I was asked to do a skiwear brochure and I really enjoyed it. I star ted looking for more models to work with and I met an amazing model called Angela Saron. I met her in a nightclub and we decided to do some pictures, but we needed a designer. We just needed some nice clothes for the test and I came across a designer called Helen Anderson who made exquisitely beautiful gowns. I went to see her and we got on brilliantly well. I showed Helen the model’s card and, as it turned out, the designer had already booked the same model for her next collection shoot. At the end of our conversation, Helen said that she liked me, she enjoyed my work, and she decided to cancel the other guy and use me instead. I got the job! We only shot four or five gowns, but they were published in magazines and on billboards in Harrods, so some doors opened. Other people star ted asking me to shoot for them, so I set off down to London. That’s how it star ted. I was bitten. Ever since that point in time, in 1983, that’s been my drive. Lots of experience, great contacts, and then I was asked to shoot a bridal collection in Tobago! Wow! That again had a knock-on effect. It all sounds fabulous, but it is hard, hard work. The drawback is not always financially secure. I know other photographers who aren’t as ‘good’ as I am, but they are fantastic at marketing. My advice for people reading this: you need to do the business side of things f irst. I have done it the wrong way around! I was just about to ask you about your advice for aspiring photographers... [Laughter] To have people inspired by you is a greater reward than any thing f inancial. You have to wrap your own creativity around commercialism. You need to know business. I love my commercial work. There are cer tain aspects that allow you to be free, but you have to be able to suit them and not your ego. They have to inform people of their products, so always think about the client’s needs. Any other industry I couldn’t possibly tell you about, but in photography you must look at the commercial value of the images. I see a lot of people testing and there is so much
post processing on their work. They are completely nonviable end results for a shoot of f ifty or six ty dresses, you know? Editorial work is the opposite: there are no rules, you can be free and creative. When you are shooting for a client, their pictures have a purpose, and if they don’t fulf il that purpose, then you won’t shoot for them again. Whose work influences you the most? The classics! Richard Avedon, Cecil Beaton, Norman Parkinson, David Bailey, Terence Donovan. There is ‘stuff’ in their work you cannot put your f inger on. Divinity. I still like the beautiful elegant style from the ‘50s. I like the excitement and sexiness from the 60’s. 70’s star ted to get a bit outrageous, and the 90’s were even worse: the heroin chic stuff for shock value. My inspiration star ts with a divine model. Take Abi that we shot for this issue: there is an element of divinity in her.
I understand your philosophy. When I f irst came back to Liverpool after working in London, I thought: “Liverpool needs a fashion magazine”. I looked around and there was nothing happening. This is going back to the 90’s. I don’t think I have ever done a job for a discerning fashion client in Liverpool. I have to travel. I have clients in Yorkshire to Hong Kong, but none in Liverpool. There is fashion energy in Liverpool, but the industry isn’t wealthy here. There are designers here, but no one is showcasing them and that is really the point of this magazine. Well Bill Cunningham did exactly that! Some of those designers are now big stars. The thing is, I am not fashionable. This is an inside out t-shir t that I am wearing. [Laughter] I just like beautiful things to photograph! If you could meet any photographer, dead or alive, who would it be and what would you ask them?
What is the favourite of your works so far?
The shoot I referred to before for a dress designer Helen Anderson (pictured) years and years later has been written about, talked about, published. It’s got me job after job after job. It earned me the title “master photographer”, and later on “legendary photographer”, which makes me scratch my head. It’s a great picture. The shoot itself was a wonderful experience.
It would have to be someone I admired personally, not just their work. I think it would HAVE to be Richard Avedon. He was a tor tured soul but an amazing character. The movie ‘My Fair Lady’ is about him and the models he worked with at the time. I don’t think that I would ask him anything. I would just listen. Maybe “great pictures, mate”? [Laughter] I would ask him how he got “that” in his pictures. That [pause] “thing”...
What do you think about the creative industry in the North West at the moment?
How did your photography academy start?
Next question! [Laughter]
A client and I were having lunch together one day chatting about the places we had been to. She told me that in all the years that we were working together, I had taught her a lot in a very simple way. So I thought maybe I should do some 2014 September | Issue 1 #INSPO 41
There are designers here, but no one is showcasing them and that is really the point of this magazine
li t tle wor k shops. Nobody was doing fashion wor k shops then, nobody at all. Then I was asked to speak at a seminar in Dubai and did some little workshops there. I was then asked to teach at an academy in Chicago, then Milan, and tha t’s how I star ted doing some of my own little courses and it went from there. For example, I am going to South Africa to speak and will do classes w hile I am there. Since being i n Ke n y a , a v e r y impor tant thing for me is to teach people to take photographs that ref lect something real. Fashion is a multi million pound indus tr y, bu t the value of it for me is getting lower, and the value of something like teaching kids to take pictures of their lives and the suffering they go through, well we call i t suf fer ing, but for them it’s just reality. Also I vowed to some people in a little remote village up in Kenya that I would come back!
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I believe that it has value w hen people 0151 707 6323 www.chaophraya.co.uk w ho do not ha ve anger or resentment, Liverpool@chaophraya.co.uk @ChaophrayaThai see something inside of y o u . S a m e a s the smiling face of a child with ver y lit tle prospec t s in life. I would rather spend my time teaching these people something, so I want to create a school that wouldn’t cost them anything. People would get a meal there, skills, something they can take out in the world and make a living from. Feeding starving children isn’t what we should be addressing. Teaching and education is where we should be focusing.
Finally, would you like to wish #INSPO anything or say something to its readers?
This is an obligation for the magazine, because it is your dream, your concept, your baby. You have to touch your readers’ hear ts and inspire them. You have to have a philosophy and be principled; showcase not just fashion, but other aspects of the ar ts too. I wish it every success! I know what it is like to create something and you cannot please everyone. Don’t make it too underground. Make it accessible. #
I think you have to have freedom of mind to have freedom of spirit 2014 September | Issue 1 #INSPO 43
One overriding beauty theme between all the shows this season was “health”. Skin came in all tex tures and shades, but it was always flawless. The men’s collections also showcased healthy skin full of vitality and youth. When it came to hair, braids have ruled the catwalks everywhere. For our beauty story, I focused on f lawless skin. I star ted with a nourishing moisturizer, Embryolisse Lait-Creme Concentrate (£20 cultybeauty.co.uk), on both models. I chose Make Up For Ever Face & Body (£29.95) as a base, because not only did the foundation need to look flawless, it also needed to hold up against sand and water at the beach. Once their skin was looking perfect, our male model Chris had some Tom Ford For Men Bronzing Gel (£35 at Harvey Nichols Beauty Bazaar) applied just on his cheekbones and forehead and I used blotting sheets to take away extra shine. My favour i te trend throughout the shows this season was metallics. For a soft wash of colour just pat some shimmering eye shadow on with your f inger and gently smudge for an ef for tless look. For ex tra shine you can also dot over a tiny amount of clear gloss, but be warned that gloss is high maintenance, and while it looks amazing, it will move and crease. Deep dark lips are super hot for the colder months and the key to making this wearable is to find the exact right shade for you - even if you have to mix a couple. For Abigail, I went with Lime Crime Velvetines in Red Velvet (£13.50), paired with a black kohl pencil around the outer corners and blended in to give the lips a three-dimensional look. Lucy Photo: Bruce Smith
Copyright: The Body Shop International Plc
#Cover Was modelling something you always wanted to do?
When I was in year 8 in high school, I was ugly. I mean really ugly. Two of the ‘popular’ boys asked me what I wanted to do when I was older. I told them I wanted to model and they laughed in my face and I cried. And now 12 years later I’m here... so I guess it’s something I’ve always wanted to do!
How did your modelling career start? After being ripped off by some bad people, I was invited to La Moda Models and asked to do some tests to see how I got on. After that it all star ted. The sky is the limit!
How would you describe your personal shooting style? Music really helps me when I’m shooting. It creates different moods when different songs play and I pull a lot of inspiration from them. The photographers help me a lot as well. If they are very easy going, I find it a lot easier to create shapes with my body and more than any of that, practice! In front of mirrors, in shop windows, test shoots; any oppor tunity is one to improve!
Do you get shy in front of the camera? I used to! But now I’ve pretty much learned to laugh off mistakes and not feel like an idiot because, when you’re confident, it shows on the shots.
Is modelling an easy job? Everyone has this impression that it’s really glamorous, beautiful and easy. News f lash. It’s really not! It’s hard work, long hours, early mornings and that’s just going to shoots! Don’t forget that you have to really look after yourself in terms of being healthy and keeping your skin clear. I remember one Christmas I was shooting on a beach in the rain and freezing cold in tiny skir ts and heels that kept sinking into the sand. Definitely not as easy as it looks!
Five things you can’t live without? 1. My son 2. My family & friends 3. iPhone 4. Elderflower cordial 5. Skittles
What is your favourite beauty product at the moment? Since Nathan at Sassoon salon cut my hair for the cover of #INSPO, I star ted using Sassoon Professional Spray Shine. It’s a weightless dry spray with UV protection that gives polished shine and a soft touch to the hair. Oh, and it smells divine!
Photo: Amy Faith Words: Lucy Mckeown
ttest lip colour for A/W 2014
makeup wi th the ho Na tural pale skin, minimal eye
I used a light base to keep Jess’ skin looking fresh and natural. For this look, tr y NARS Sheer Glow foundation (£31), or for the more budget conscious, L’Oreal True Match (£9.99). Apply just where needed, usually around the t-zone, then lightly powder to matte out any shiny areas. For the lips, I mixed Jess’ lipstick using a deep red colour with a wash of black eye shadow over the top, as I wanted it to look a little gritty, but to get a more ‘user friendly’ colour, try NARS Pure Matte lipstick in Volga (£19.50). For fool-proof contour and highlight, use Daniel Sandler Sculpt and Slim palette (£24.50). Apply the dark shade under the cheekbones and around the temples then use the shimmering side on the cheekbones and Cupid’s bow. Finish with a f lush of Daniel Sandler Watercolour Blush for the healthiest looking skin imaginable!
terms ON and FOR 15% OFF ALL DANIEL SANDLERand PRODUCTS WWW.DANIELSANDLER.COM ENTER “INSPOMAGAZINE15” AT THE CHECKOUT! For full stockists and terms and conditions see the website. 2014 September | Issue 1 #INSPO 45
e c a F # cy Words: Lu
azaar); in B eau ty B ls o h ic N y ve 10 Minute pa in Har 9.99) and is 5 d (£ e r M lle is ro e Year s om Kar id t Away th ial (£4 0 fr if c L a F ’s r p a e le le aut y S r ys tal C ck is ts. ith the B e ush with C l Clear s to ta Star t off w tain your you thful fl s y r C d lec te ain between m ask (£24.99) from se m l ia A great way to maintain the glow in Glow fac between facials is with the Lift Away the Friendly and professional therapists at Years roller from Crystal Clear. You Karidis Medispa, who are skin and muscle get a beautiful serum, which contains the tone exper ts, will take you through a buzz ingredient of the century, Sy-Nake. 45-minute Beauty Sleep Facial consisting Yes, snake venom! Plus a wonder ful of cleanser, toner (which smells like nail roller pen that gently vibrates to push varnish remover, but made my skin feel the serum deep into the skin. Truthfully, I tight and plump, so I can forgive it), an am a sceptic when it comes to gadgets enzyme from fruit ex tracts that deeply in skincare routines, however, I couldn’t exfoliates over a period of about a week, help but take some before and after and extractions of anything trapped under images of myself after using this product, the sur face of the skin. You will also be and there was a distinct difference in my offered some moisturiser and sunscreen, skin after only a 3-minute treatment! if you happen to have your facial on a The shadows under my eyes were less visible, my skin looked plump and tight. sunny day. After the treatment, it does take a day or two for your skin to settle and the enzyme may make your skin a little dry, so be prepared for dry patches over the following week, and, just to be safe, don’t book in the day before a big event! Once your skin settles down, it will absolutely look more glowing and youthful than it has before. Your pores will be smaller and that f lush of youth will stay fixed on your cheeks as long as you keep up a good skincare routine.
For extra time erasing benefits, combine Lift Away the Years with a luxurious peel off facial mask, 10 Minute Glow. Ideal for all skin types, this fast-acting product with strong anti-inf lammatory agents reduces any redness and excess sebum produc tion. I t is especially wonder ful after a late night and will keep you glowing until Christmas!
One Monday af ter noon I went to Lush Spa in Liverpool city centre to tr y out their signature treatment – Synaes thesia. I wasn’t surprised at all that the décor was homey and the surroundings made me feel calm and relaxed. On the initial consultation I was asked to pick a word that stood out to me the most. I chose ‘Esteem’ and was told to select one of many colourful little bottles labeled with different words. I wasn’t allowed to smell the essential oils in them making the whole experience even more exciting and mysterious! My therapist, Louise, then invited me to lie down on the massage table and relax. She star ted off with my face, then arms. After that, I was offered to have a belly massage or hot stones, and I immediately chose stones, because I have never had a hot stone massage done before, so I was curious. While I had hot stones on my upper body and forehead, the therapist massaged my legs using the oils I have chosen myself – I have never been able to customise any treatment before!
Throughout the whole 80 minutes of a moodchanging massage I was lis tening to the specially co m p o s e d m u s i c and ex per iencing massage movements choreographed to it. Even though 80 minutes is a long time, it definitely didn’t feel like it (for those who might think that they would get bored). I felt peaceful and uplifted afterwards, and while drinking a specially blended tea to match my treatment, I thought that every single person should be able to enjoy a massage once in a while. For true believers in natural skincare products, try Ruby Red, a British brand that uses the science of nature and the vital nutrients in plant ingredients combined with natural fragrance to keep your skin looking healthy and radiant. All of their products are free from SLS, parabens, sulphates, petrochemicals, synthetic aromas and dyes, making them perfect for sensitive skin.
ing and e tr y Sooth 10 0ml m o h t a e c 2x er ien Red (£28 e spa exp y th b u g n R ti a m ). For cre r iser fro t Lush Spa hing B ody Mois tu a 5 12 (£ ia is aes thes d Nour self to Sy n r and Soothing an Trea t your e ns ody Clea tics.co.uk). Gentle B e sm o c d ubyre a t w w w.r
y d o #B a Words: Jurg
Skeir y te
45 #INSPO Issue 1 | September 2014
Photography Bruce Smith Makeup
Kelly Ann Garrigan
Model Abigail La Moda Models
Model Chris Duncan Impact Models
Modelsâ€™ own clothes worn throughout.
Ch r i s w e a r s hi s o w n Po l o R a l p h Lauren under wear throughout.
51 #INSPO Issue 1 | September 2014
#AddressBook CRYSTAL CLEAR 34 Rodney Street, Liverpool, L1 9AA, UK crystalclear.co.uk
KU SPENDLOVE 139a Kensington, Liverpool, L7 2RE kuspendlove.co.uk
DANIEL SANDLER Nail and Beauty Clinic, 390 Washway Road, Sale, Cheshire, M33 4JH www.danielsandler.com
LUSH 9-11 Whitechapel, Liverpool, L1 6DS 113 Regent Crescent, Manchester, M17 8AR Unit L4, Arndale Shopping Centre, Manchester, M4 3QA 12 Foregate St, Chester, CH1 1HA www.lush.co.uk
DRESSING ROOM 33 School Lane, 2nd Floor, Liverpool, L1 3DA @dressingroomL1 ELECTRIC HAIR Beauty Bazaar Harvey Nichols, 16 Manestys Lane, Liverpool One, L1 3DL www.electric-hair.com HOUSE OF PEARL www.houseofpearluk.com @HouseOfPearl1 KARIDIS MEDISPA Beauty Bazaar Harvey Nichols, 16 Manestys Lane, Liverpool One, L1 3DL www.karidis.co.uk
MARK MELIA 33 School Ln, City Centre, Liverpool, L1 3DA www.markmeliafashions.com MOLLIE BROWN www.molliebrown.co.uk @molliebrownUK OLIVIA DIVINE 16a The Metquar ter , 35 Whitechapel, Liverpool, L1 6DA www.oliviadivine.co.uk RADLEY 7 Peters Lane, Liverpool One, L1 3DE www.radley.co.uk REAL TECHNIQUES Stocked in Boots and Superdrug realtechniques.com REISS 6 Peters Lane, Liverpool One, L1 3DE 46-48 Stanley Street, Liverpool, L1 6AL Unit 2, 18-20 Watergate Street, Chester, CH1 2LA www.reiss.com RUBY RED www.rubyredcosmetics.co.uk @RubyRedBeauty VIDAL SASSOON 1st Floor Metquar ter, 34 Whitechapel, Liverpool, L1 6DA 1 Marsden Street, Manchester, M2 1HW www.sassoon.com TED BAKER 1 Peters Lane, Liverpool One, L1 3DE Unit U65, 137 Regent Crescent, The Trafford Centre, Manchester, M17 8AR www.tedbaker.com THE LEATHER SATCHEL Utility, 8 Paradise Place Liverpool One, L1 8BQ Utility, 86 Bold Street Liverpool, L1 4H www.leathersatchel.com
With over 700 looks to choose from, which one will you wear tonight? The ultimate online tutorial destination by professional make-up artists and sisters, Sam & Nic.
WAREHOUSE South John Street, Liverpool One, L1 8BK Unit 9, New Cannon Street Mall, Arndale Shopping Centre, Manchester, M4 3AJ The Trafford Centre, 140 Regent Crescent, Manchester, M17 8AP www.warehouse.co.uk
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#ThankYou Many thanks from all of Team #INSPO to: La Moda Models Impact Models Agency Sassoon Salon (Liverpool) Kelly Ann Garrigan Elli Kershaw Rachael Clarke Electric Hair (Liverpool) Emma Smith and all the staff at Warehouse Liverpool ONE Retronica Video Corp and Chris Marsh Models in our crowdfunding video (Abi, Meg, Lauren, Sophie, Elizabeth, Jess)
Kisses and hugs to 31 amazing human beings who donated on Indiegogo to help make #INSPO a success! Special thanks from Jurga to:
t nielle Blun r ters - Da o p p su s u r gorgeo One of ou
Family and friends The Princeâ€™s Trust Another Level Heather Peers Tim Heaton Liz Lacey Christine Bulmer-Goodwin and Ali
Also to everyone who worked on this issue:
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CORPORATE VIDEOS / EVENT VIDEOS FASHION VIDEOS / MUSIC VIDEOS YOUTUBE TUTORIALS
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Lucy, Elizabeth, Kerryn, Amy, Bruce, Rob, Al, Beth, Kirsty (a.k.a. Kizzie) and Ruta.
FINE ART PORTRAITURE BY BRUCE SMITH
WWW.BRUCESMITHPHOTOGRAPHER.COM CALL 07904 485253 TO ARRANGE AN APPOINTMENT
Electric Hairdressing Liverpool Beauty Bazaar, Harvey Nichols 16 Manestyâ€™s Lane, Liverpool, L1 3DL Call 0151 559 6417 to book your appointment or visit www.electric-hair.com and book online