morsels Tasty tid-bits from around the Island
Madre brings true cacao back to the chocolate bar. By Rebecca Pike
Chocolates, a Snickers bar is no more chocolate than a mound of canned Chicken of the Sea is sashimi at Sushi Sasabune. A typical chocolate candy bar contains very little actual chocolate and that small amount has been processed nearly beyond recognition. “Sugar is a lot cheaper than cacao,” explains Elliott, as we gathered in the Kailua factory following the farm tour. We had just tasted roasted cacao beans (nutty and still slightly bitter) and enjoyed warm cups of Aztec sipping chocolate (rich, delicious and soul-nourishing). Large chocolate makers like Hershey and Cadbury will roast the beans to the hilt to force maximum flavor, because then they can use the minimum amount of the expensive ingredient and fill the space with other, less expensive ingredients. At local artisan chocolate makers like Madre, the path from “bean to bar” is much more direct and the flavors far more pure. Not all cacao used by Madre is sourced locally (there is simply not enough crop), but the chocolate made from Hawaiian cacao is recognizably different.
The Real Deal
TO THE SENSITIVE, cacao-centric palate of someone like David Elliott of Madre
InsideOutHawaii.com FEBRUARY 2014
1/13/14 10:19:01 AM