loses vital nutrients and enzymes when it’s heated above a certain point. At Pure Food, Executive Chef Nikki King Bennett both amplifies the essential elements of uncooked fruits, vegetables and grains and creates inventive combos: Basil/pistachio pesto and macadamia/pumpkin-seed ricotta stripe a zucchini/heirloom tomato lasagna, and henof-the-woods tacos al pastor swap a zesty jicama wrap for a tortilla. In contrast, Candle Café West (2427 Broadway, 212.769.8900) contents itself with just celebrating a vegan bill of fare (one that completely eschews animal products, including milk and eggs). The new sister of the famed Candle Cafe, the first NYC eatery certified by the Green Restaurant Association, it does wonders with mock meats, like its charred, skewered seitan chimichurri or portobello steak in a black pepper/cabernet reduction. There’s also an elaborate bar serving sustainable beverages: wines from biodynamic vineyards (where plants, animals and soil are treated as a single, holistic system); spirits and beers made from organically grown grains; and nothing containing sulfites or artificial additives. So, forget the rum and Coca-Cola and try a Bodhi Tree, a scarlet-hued mix of Fair vodka, sake, poached pear/green tea, pomegranate and Veev acai liqueur. Those craving something more casual can have their cake and eat it too at Blossom Du Jour (259 W. 23rd St., 212.229.2595), a vegan fast-food eatery that seduces even the most omnivorous with its cholesterol- and trans-fats-free mini apple crumble pies and red velvet cupcakes. Content to stay simply vegetarian? The fetish for fermented foods (which are rich in probiotics, the “good gut” bacteria that aid digestion) has propelled the pickle from side slice to star at seven-month-old The Pickle Shack (256 4th Ave., Gowanus, Brooklyn, 347.763.2127), in the newly hip nabe near the Gowanus Canal. The housemade, aged briny bounty adds zest to Chef Neal Harden’s vegetarian sandwiches—from kimchee in the smoked tofu bahn mi to Branston pickle paired with creamy Taleggio cheese. Also on the menu: a wide selection of bot-
tled beers from Dogfish Head, a philanthropically oriented craft brewery. If an overall organic approach is OK, head to the just-opened Blue Olive Market (210 E. 41st St., 212.922.0991), which offers all the makings for a heart-healthy, Mediterranean diet. Perfumed with aromas like lemon and thyme from its dizzying selection of olive oils, this rustic-chic food hall artfully arranges hot foods (including classics like spanakopita and moussaka), soups, charcuterie and meze stations. Kick back at the wine bar, which emphasizes Greek, Iberian Peninsula and other Med-region vinos, or grab to go an authentically dense Greek “fro yo,” made on the spot with a mist of liquid nitrogen—natural as the air we breathe.
Kee-Ko Organics specializes in eco-friendly garb for babies (available at Sprout) and the occasional adult—as in these New York City Punch-Out Flip-Flops, ideal for a carbon-emission-free walk around town.
ETHICAL PAMPERING Admittedly, there’s nothing natural about makeup or beautifying products. But if you want to indulge, there’s a wealth of IN New YORK | april 2014 | innewyork.com
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