ISSUE 01. MAY 2012
david lachapell ISSEY MIY e LEIGH BO AKE WERY
E G N A CH R THE FO ETTER B
6-9 10 - 15 16 - 19
KAIZEN. ON THE COVER
HUNGRY FOR N
PERFORMANCE ARTIST ACTOR POP STAR MODEL FASHION DESIGNER ANything else?
LARGER Bowery is considered one of the more influential figures in the 1980s and 1990s London and New York art and fashion circles influencing a generation of artists and designers. His influence reached through the fashion, club and art worlds to impact, amongst others, Alexander McQueen, Vivienne Westwood, Boy George, Antony and the Johnsons, John Galliano, the Scissor Sisters, David LaChapelle, Lady Bunny plus numerous Nu-Rave bands and nightclubs in London and New York which arguably perpetuated his avant garde ideas.
THAN LIFE. Although Bowery always described himself as gay he married his long-term friend Nicola
Bateman on May 13, 1994, months before his death from AIDS-related illness at the (now closed and redeveloped) Middlesex Hospital London on New Year’s Eve 1994, after a five-week battle that only a handful of friends were informed about. Reportedly one death bed pronouncement “Tell them I’ve gone pig farming in Bolivia”, illustrates the gallows humour and dark irony that can be traced in much of his work. Among his last requests was that his middle name be unknown. Though Bowery died at 33 he packed much into his short life. He explained to friends that he often added ten years to his age because no one believed he was so young, although he did look older than his years.
The first women’s collection was launched in New York in 1971, and from 1973 ISSEY MIYAKE has shown in the Paris Collection every season. Based on the original concept of using “A Piece Of Cloth” in order to clothe the body, the ISSEY MIYAKE label has continued to develop and win acceptance and acclaim around the world. Whilst always striving for the ideal
ISSEY relationship between clothing and the human body,
ISSEY MIYAKE continues to engage in the challenge of making new things through research,
experimentation, and development. The essence of Issey Miyake’s 30-year experience and design
ethos was passed from the SPRING/ SUMMER 2000 Collection to Naoki Takizawa who took over as Chief Designer. From the AUTUMN WINTER 2007
Collection, Dai Fujiwara was appointed as Naoki
Takizawa’s successor. The ISSEY MIYAKE label began a new fashion concept - that of combining technology and design to create an idea called
A-POC INSIDE (design solution). And then, from the
AUTUMN WINTER 2009 Collection, it incorporated a sister label ISSEY MIYAKE FÊTE in order to extend
the range of its creativity. Then, the baton has passed
to Yoshiyuki Miyamae at the SPRING SUMMER 2012 Collection. Using Japan’s traditional techniques and
new technologies, ISSEY MIYAKE will keep offering the clothes in which creators’ hearts are filled.
1971年ニューヨークにてコレクションを発 表、その後1973年パリ・コレクションに初め て参加。衣服を「一枚の布」と捉えた独自 のコンセプトを展開し世界で多くの共感を 得ました。身体と衣服のあり方を見つめな がら、常に研究・実験・開発を通し、新しい モノ作りに挑戦しています。30年にわたる
コレクションから滝沢直己へ、さらに2007年 秋冬コレクションからは藤原 大に受け継
らはISSEY MIYAKE FÊTEが加わり、さらに
â€œI very much like dance and dancersâ€? issey miyake
Mr. Miyake’s studio on Tuesday beat the Alexander McQueen wedding gown for the Duchess of Cambridge, created just a year ago by Sarah Burton, as well as a variety of other nominees, including the Céline autumn 2011 collection by Phoebe Philo and the “Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty” exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. Many innovative ideas from the award’s seven categories, including architecture, digital design, furniture and graphics, are on display in the Designs of the Year 2012 exhibition (until July 4; designmuseum.org). A mong the extraordinary inventions and progressive ideas are the winning outfits from Mr. Miyake’s studio that seem to encompass different kinds of modernity: clothes that fold flat, opening with 3Ddimensions and made from recycled polyester. Just looking at the mathematically calculated designs, creating prisms of unfolding shapes, is to realize that the Pleats Please invention from Mr. Miyake, which started nearly 25 years ago in 1988, was only the beginning of a series of futuristic ideas.
David LaChapelle first made a name for himself as a photographer for Warhol’s legendary Interview Magazine. Over the next 20 years, his boldly glamorous, often surreal fashion, celebrity and commercial work – including portraiture for everyone from Britney Spears to Alexander McQueen and Kurt Cobain – graced the pages of the world’s most respected magazines. LaChapelle expanded his vision to include award-winning music video work, and in 2004, he designed and directed Elton John’s Vegas show, The Red Piano. Simultaneously, he self-financed the Sundance award-winning short Krumped, which late inspired the 2005 feature-length documentary, Rize, celebrating South Central LA’s groundbreaking Krumping dancers. In 2006, LaChapelle made a dramatic break from the fashion and celebrity scenes, moving to Maui where he renovated a former nudist colony compound, turning it into his private sanctuary. Here he has pursued his fine art work, despite doubts that that arena would accept some one with his background. Now, drawing on a broad base that ranges from art history to street culture, LaChapelle’s new work is turning many a stiff-necked
SURREALI critic’s head, focusing the lens of celebrity and fashion on consumerism and cultural hierarchies.
n the early 80’s, LaChapelle worked
as a bus boy in New York’s over-the-top celebrity hangout, Studio 54, where he witnessed first hand the devotion celebrities elicited. His photographic career began at Interview magazine under the tutelage of the magazine’s founder, Andy Warhol. There, LaChapelle experienced total immersion in the life of glamour, becoming one of Interview’s premier photographers. LaChapelle shot mostly in black and white in the beginning, but he once told me he couldn’t take the posed black-and-white fashion aesthetic seriously anymore. His signature photography has become synonymous with wildly beautiful colorful sets, unexpected positioning of models and celebrities, all shot with subtle or over humor. More than static portraits, his photos often appear as a still from a motion picture, with layers of plots ready to play out before our eyes. It is only natural, then, that LaChapelle is making a move into video and film. The video “Natural Blues,” with Moby, represents
his most recent and successful effort.
devotion are depicted outside their traditional
As Moby mentioned in our interview, though a
settings. Yet LaChapelle’s photos tap into a
huge fan of David’s, he was worried that given the
truth about the American obsession with and
brightness that typifies David’s work, David may
devotion to celebrity by blending the sacred
not have been the right person to do the video for
and the celebrated. When LaChapelle took
the subdued tones of “Natural Blues.” However,
his picture of Leonardo DiCaprio, there were
David convinced Moby and his record company,
thousands of girls who most likely would have
V2, that he wanted to do something beautiful and
chosen to meet Leonardo over
earnest. The result is the most spiritual video to
be in rotation on MTV in years.
piritual and religious themes are not
new to David. A decade ago, he shot a series of gold icons of body parts, influenced by his observation of iconography in Latino Catholic culture. His models with angels’ wings were made famous when R.E.M. used the same concept in their video for “Losing My Religion.” And of course, he has cast celebrities and models as religious figures: Leonardo Di Caprio as Christ; Mike Myers within a Hindu setting; Madonna with
ut I’d be wrong to say David himself
is trying to make a point about anything. LaChapelle’s portraits with religious themes are often more whimsical than didactic, or even intellectual. Shock value isn’t the goal. LaChapelle is guided by a sometimes mischievous muse, but not a malicious one. And in the “Natural Blues” video, he has created a work of religious art that transcends temporal glamour to attain true spiritual significance.
the sacred heart of Jesus; and Marilyn Manson as the prince of darkness. “Natural Blues” has the enigmatic actress Christina Ricci playing an angel who leads Moby to God and rebirth. Some people are offended when objects of
NYC , 390 PARK AVE, NEW YORK, 10022 Photograph by: Jesse David Harris
LEVER HOUSE : FROM DARKNESS TO LIGHT
“If you want r eal ity take the bus.”
Published on May 9, 2012