ABOUT THIS TAKEAWAY GUIDE
AW 23/24 is a season that will be all about contrasts. Consumers will be seeking to reconcile the uncertainty of an ever-changing world, coupled with the need to feel grounded, comforted, and inspired. From movie-like, daydream-inspired vignettes of daily surroundings to a whole new appreciation for the ancient, mystical wisdom of the universe, it will be a season full of juxtapositions, complex craft, and a strong reconnection to our natural instincts. By loosening the reins on traditional expectations and order, we will be guided to a more authentic place.
Upon this new season, Informa Markets Fashion has partnered with the global forecasting agency FS (Fashion Snoops) to lead the way with an inspiring and informed look at what is happening for AW 23/24 in the menswear market.
As a complement to the digital discovery session, this guide identifies the four overarching Design Aesthetics that will frame the season. Finding a way to align newness in design with consumer culture, these edited takeaways are meant to inspire and examine how each theme will influence color, silhouette, materials, print and pattern, and key items for the season ahead.
MAGIC Las Vegas
February 13-15, 2023
SHOP THE TRENDS
Shop AW 23/24 trends at upcoming Informa Markets Fashion’s live events
PROJECT New York
January 24-25, 2023 projectfashionevents.com
PROJECT Las Vegas
February 13-15, 2023 projectfashionevents.com
SOURCING at MAGIC
February 13-15, 2023
March 14-16, 2023
1Unusual surfaces and somewhat uncomfortable design makes up this Design Aesthetic that puts a fresh spin on cold weather goth. Elevating the grunge look to an entirely new place, these are styles that bring together menswear troupes like workwear and the great outdoors in a darkly industrial way. Deliberately distressed and seemingly chemically treated, it’s gloomy character that adds an edge to otherwise basic silhouettes.
The bewitching shades in MYSTIC cast a darkly romantic spell, with hues like Bloodstone, Coal, Nocturnal, Jade, and Skyfall breathing new life into seasonal jewel tones—more mysterious than they are opulent. The entire palette is a modern day gothic tale with elements of earth, water, and air. There are witchy-inspired colors like Enchantment, Spanish Moss, Compost, Neon Night, and Pomegranate that float from the cosmos to the terrain, while delicate tones like Cool Taupe, Awaken, Heavenly, and Nautilus speak to the immense strength of ethereal pastels—seemingly floating while also feeling grounded.
MEN’S CONTEMPORARY KEY ITEMS
As a new alternative to camo, blotchy rust stains and chemical spills add a much more industrial edge to workwear-inspired design.
Slick, leather-like or rubberized coatings are brushed onto woolen surfaces to give garments a high-contrast textural appeal.
Industrial grade straps and details actually shift the silhouette of technical outerwear by allowing for adjustments throughout the garment.
Distressing for denim takes on a more embellished feel with deliberate shredding along the edges of jacket lapels.
Inspired by myths and folklore, a classic shirt takes on a macabre look when printed in a monochromatic, etching-inspired print style.
With a mix of rugged glamor, the trucker jacket in a grey rinse looks new when embellished with allover nailheads or metal studs.
Denim or winter cottons are adorned with mystical-inspired motifs like celestial stars, suns or eclipses. It’s a new take on 1960s bohemian style.
The tried-and-true shirt-jacket is elevated to a new place when rendered in leather or a high-gloss coating.
Depths of color are explored through a shadowy take on nighttime hues in matte and metallic finishes.
Layered cut-outs and molded creases offer textural contrast against matte black leather for a sculptural spin on everyday assortments.
RUBBER CAPPED BOOT
Stealth and utilitarian, rubber toed boots are offer adjustable buckles and are outfitted with rugged lug soles, fit for traversing unknown paths.
Darkened silver metal is worked into form-fitting cuffs with the illustrative motif of double buckles.
Finishes for the season take on a more enchanted approach to adornment with techniques that push tactile boundaries with puckered and irregular textures.
Dark, inky glazes sink into hard or soft surfaces for a grounded almost night-inspired quality. Metallic yarns also work in a similar effect to excite and awe otherwise classic materials.
On the surface, these leathers offer a richly-colored appeal, but also support sustainable efforts thanks to chrome-free tanning or vegetable dyes.
Base layers continue to push construction boundaries with superlight but warming constructions. Opt for a delicate framework of micro gauge yarns that update sheers.
Deep jewel tones illuminate from the dark nocturnal backgrounds showcasing the intricate patterns that emerge through a spellbinding cloud of supernatural energy.
Whispers of gold clouds bend and spin through the shadowed prints, swirling spells of opulent intrigue to emerge with a gilded boost of modernity.
SHADOW WORK DYES
Macabre-tinged dyes embrace the dark through an alchemical process, showcasing the effects of shadow work amongst murky ombrés and soot-swirled prints
Sweeping leaves take on a gritty wash of blurred formation, allowing the print to transform with a shadowed effect, swaying gently amongst whispers of fabled enchantment.
HARNESS THE UNSEEN
By breaking free from our traditional ways of thinking and doing, we just might be able to stumble into the next great idea, innovation, or piece of art.
Think of how you can sprinkle some ‘magic’ into the everyday and provoke awe. Infuse moments of whimsy or a sense of play into visuals and language to elevate the mood.
DON’T BE AFRAID OF THE DARK
Make moments of moodiness more palatable by bringing in hints of levity, and invite your audience to explore these new worlds and ideas with open curiosity.
Looking at life through a decidedly softer lens, Poetic is all about bucolic charm. The focus here is on homespun knits that are time-honored in their influence, and impactful in their reminder of simpler times. There’s a bit of irregular character and one-size-fits-all quality about these garments—a nod to general store provisions, and a much-needed charismatic quality of tradition that’s often forgotten about in this era of fast fashion.
The colors in POETIC are like rippling fragments of heart and imagination, full of earnestness and warmth. The left side of the palette represents the more eclectic part of a daydream, with Hazel, Oolong, Greige, Winter Sun, and Cherry Ice providing a kind of retro-inspired respite from the discord of everyday life. Brick, Introspect, and Baguette give us feelings of kindheartedness, while a temperate group of blues like Cascade, Aizome, Stormy Sky, and Ice go through a deep depth of emotions–from calmness and serenity to sincerity and gloom. Finally, some of the cooler pastels are a necessary balance to the warmer browns, emphasizing a wide range of sentiments
MEN’S CONTEMPORARY KEY ITEMS
EXTREME CABLE KNIT
Functional pockets and extra armholes cleverly concealed within oversized cable knits emphasize the importance of merging craft and utility.
COUNTRY LEISURE SET
Updating the matching set, and cut from cozy fine gauge knits rather than standard cotton jersey, these are styled like a 20th Century union suit, but more casual and luxurious.
With exaggerated fits expected to be prevalent, ingeniously-placed seams create structural volume to emphasize the cozy, casual nature of oversized sweaters.
Thick, somewhat irregular pick stitching adds an old world quality with a handcrafted look. The more seemingly random the pattern, the better.
YOUNG MEN’S KEY ITEMS
‘90s-inspired oversized fits are usually seen on woven shirts and pants, but their use on crafty sweaters is what is truly new. Raw surfaces and exaggerated details are key.
Elongated sweaters get a new lease on life with extended pattern panels, best done in a traditional motif like Fair Isle.
Bomber silhouettes become more formal with statement patterns. Consider jacquard and brocade patterns to elevate classic outerwear silhouettes.
As the cardigan continues to trend up, sleeveless styles with quirky intarsias are key. Tonal harmonies and pattern clashing make it younger.
Accessories from knit hats to slip-ons emphasize the importance of of softcore via plush and comforting materials.
FELTED WORK CLOG
Soft but sturdy materials like felted wool and suede are placed on buckled clogs for a cozy contrast.
Chunky crochet stitches revive the classic beret in a distinctly more slouchy shape, with a tinge of Wes Anderson-inspired nostalgia.
Plush shearling is worked into rectangular totes with an unstructured shape and carry-all capability.
Surfaces that invite touch with brushed finishes, slubby yarns and novel embroidery treatments are welcomed updates for outerwear.
Vintage denims are updated with organic cotton blends and lowered water usage.
For finishes, a rustic simplicity is conveyed through uneven techniques.
Quilting designed to comfort the mind and soothe the soul with familiar techniques updated with biodegradable fillings and new plaid.
Paying respect to humble ingredients, organic cotton, hemp, merino wool and flax are left raw and uncomplicated for crafted cable knits and simple wovens.
As daydreams merge with reality, comforting stripes with a melancholic palette invite a curiosity towards a quieter lifestyle one of tender sincerity that is rich in simplicity.
Charming scenes with a folkloric rhythm appear as threadbare graphics showcasing fables that have been passed down with printed sincerity.
An evolution of timeless patchwork with a hint of modern print splicing, it’s like a cabinet of curiosities explored with repurposed craft and nostalgic newness.
Classic tartans, soft buffalo checks, and traditional plaid receives a clouded coating of whimsy blurring boundaries and easing silhouettes with a cozy comfort.
TELL YOUR STORY
Engage on an emotional level to make your audience part of the message. Leverage modern mediums, from video to haptics, to construct an environment where fantasy and reality collide
ELEVATE THE FAMILIAR
Think of ways to bring new purpose or a second life to objects; and look to unexpected details, materials, and inner narratives. Honor the connections between the user and product
LEAD WITH YOUR INSTINCTS
Create environments that heighten the senses and provide plenty of room and time for introspection. Embrace the process of discovery by making it okay to fail.
Inspired by overgrown textures, soil influenced hues, and the patterns of nature, Untamed taps into a more organic, raw, and untouched version of the outdoors. While consumers continue to crave the outdoor experiences post-pandemic, this season brings a focus towards nature explorations that offer a slightly untangled sensibility and evoke a wild intrigue. It’s about finding further meaning beyond the surface taking inspiration from the quietly thriving ecosystems surrounding us.
The colors in UNTAMED are equal parts gritty and graceful, deep and delicate a palette that’s somewhat uneasy on the senses with a chaotic, disheveled presence. Compost, Willow, Supernatural, Ochre, and Greige are impactful greens and taupes that go from lush to dry, but they emphasize an all-natural appeal. Fire, Burlwood, and
Winter Sun inject a much-needed naivety into an otherwise grainy group of hues, while Teak, Raisin, Timber, Cherry Ice, Grit Grey, and Black represent the angst-filled parts of our personality.
MEN’S CONTEMPORARY KEY ITEMS
Chaotic, fractured motifs on intarsia sweaters mimic patches of forest, grounded with a tonality of color.
Shredded surface treatments have an even more textural appeal when stitched over or repaired with patchwork throughout.
Active-inspired sets feature shaggy piles of faux fur to take on an almost animalistic look, becoming a more novel way to do shearlings and sherpa.
With an almost burnt out effect, camouflage gets reinvigorated with wild abstractions and outlandish color combinations.
After a few seasons of quilting techniques being key, the puffer sees another key update. A-line silhouettes and quirky quilting techniques embrace modern surrealism.
Novelty knitwear prevails, drawing inspiration from monsters and animation with extreme marls, and felted and brushed finishes.
Crafty, quirky yarns that appear to be overgrown and out of control are a great way to update otherwise classic sweater silhouettes.
The excitement around fashion denim has been a mainstay across social media. Twisted seams update classic silhouettes are a nod to Levi’s twisted 1999 style.
MEN’S KEY ACCESSORIES
Textural paneling, hodge podge knit and crocheted surfaces indicate a more unrestrained approach to knit accessories.
Straying away from muted earth tones, hikers incorporate a brighter palette that enliven function-forward utilitarian footwear.
Balaclavas take on a more handknitted appearance through alternating rib knits and asymmetrical color blocking.
Crocheted raffia inserts and premium grade leathers merge on crescent shape totes for an earthly mix of materials and texture.
From a performance standpoint, plantbased alternatives continue to gain traction. The same holds true for trims, labels and closures that all explore these organic alternatives.
Stylistic alternatives to compostinspired materials mimic the wild organic nature of root systems in tangled yarn forms and marled interest.
Revered for its natural thermoregulating properties, wool is updated to be more raw and unmanipulated in naturally felted compositions.
Accepting all the flaws and irregularities of the process, techniques embrace a more spontaneous sensibility. Surfaces appear unraveled from aggressive distressing that exposes the inner yarn.
Quietly secluded and wildly flourishing, camouflage keeps evolving through all-encompassing designs that celebrate an uncultivated intrigue.
Complex carvings with a highcontrast appeal sit alongside more artistic portrayals of watercolorwashed lines and metallic-infused prints.
Fiery prints invite a visceral warmth of activated color and spirited movement as an energetic new way to do abstract allovers.
Animal instinct merges with ultraorganic speckles for a textural update to traditional spotted patterns, complete with dramatic colorways.
FORAGE & FABRICATE
Encourage circularity by offering your consumers creative mending tutorials and ways to update your products with dyes and embellishments from foraged materials
LEVERAGE UNDERGROUND WISDOM
Immerse your audience in the magic of the underground through the powerful ingredients and eco-friendly materials that can be derived from fungi and soil microbes
LEAN INTO DISCOMFORT
Shying away from critical conversations may distance your brand from the increasingly conscious consumer. Consider providing room on your platforms to amplify influential voices that are demystifying taboo topics
Paradox is a visual experiment in organic contrasts surfaces that provide warmth and protection alongside silhouettes and colors that are delicately refined. From tailored activewear to a utilitarian spin on luxury, this Design Aesthetic is an ultra-modern way to update the basic athleisure so prevalent since the beginning of the pandemic.
Objects of Common Interest
The colors in PARADOX are like a visual push and pull of tones and shades that reflect the many contradictions of modern life. Sweet-natured pastels like Lucite, Snowdrop, Introspect, Latte, and Ice are highlighted and underscored in a more powerful way when sitting next to brights like Cherry Ice, Fizzle, Neon Night, Butterscotch, and Polaris. A small but impactful group of neutrals further ground an otherwise prismatic palette. The chromatic experiment in weight and intensity illustrates how opposites coming together are made even stronger.
Pieced construction with halved panels of opposing fabrics updates quintessentially utilitarian essentials like the cargo pant.
The classic sweatshirt is rendered in graphic quilted nylon for a nuanced take on an athleisure staple. Hi-shine surfaces elevate the look even further.
Moving on from gorpcore, expect an influx of more tailored outerwear with a dramatic silhouette, and are constructed from more refined fabrics.
Layered panels of self-fabric breathe new life into the traditional suit. This inside-out approach at utility emphasizes the need for protection.
Cozy puffers get a futuristic makeover with a pullover silhouette, swirl texture, and candy-coated colors.
The leisure suit becomes all about casual comfort when paired back to pleated knits and a directional update to basic sweats.
Technical outerwear with a high-shine surface is unexpected with the fusion of glamorous colors and materials with outdoors-inspired silhouettes.
Otherwise tailored silhouettes for pants designed with drapey fabrics and pastel colors injects new, soft energy into a very traditional category.
Bucket hats are rethought in crocodile textures and quilted brims with distinctly glossy finishes and a monochromatic palette.
Hard, geometric lines and proportions are worked into slip-on loafers to update the classic dress shoe with a modern edge.
Taking rectangular frames to the next level, pearlescent finishes and outsized logos bring a directional quality to more angular silhouettes.
Mini bags find newness in more structured shapes with unexpected elements like belt straps and postmodern blue hues.
High performing abrasion resistance shells maintain a higher level of use. Recycled superlight insulations that mimic the compressibility of goose down are key.
Digitally-inspired takes on reflectives emerge with customizable printed overlays and brighter bases. Allover interpretations for a dramatic luster.
WELLNESS FABRIC INFUSIONS
Peppermint finishes and other softeners present a unique opportunity to inject otherwise straightforward technical materials with an abundance of functional benefits. .
Evolving popular technical materials for colder seasons, satin jerseys and body hugging knits adopt a crisper finish, denser hand and more streamlined approach.
High intensity stripes with a spectrumdefying vibration create an ultramodern appeal allowing the pigments to shift between dazzling ombré dyes to radiating color blocks.
A true paradox of print and emotion, the push and pull of these diptych-inspired designs creates a modern balance of pattern showcasing two dimensions coexisting in organic unity.
Rippling prints issue an echo of surreality this season, melting classic color blocks and photo prints with a cascading cognition as fantasy slowly bends our concept of reality.
Radiating heat emerges from within, igniting a spectrum-powered glow of tonal focused color for a modern update to classic ombré dyes.
Augment brick-and-mortar retail with digital flexibility, and elevate e-commerce with interactive 3D experiences. Offer your customers a blended experience that maintains ease and consistency no matter the channel
Bring a sense of relief to your audience by incorporating playful irony. Leverage retrofuturistic aesthetics to inspire an optimistic outlook and spark the imagination
MOBILIZE PARADOX THINKING
The in-between Paradox space can lead to innovation by challenging us to think in new ways. Consider how your company can incorporate paradox thinking into design strategies and external engagement
UNPACK THE TRENDS
Take a deeper dive into the concepts and key products presented in this guide at our digital discovery sessions, featuring FS' trend experts
AW 23/24 Women’s Trends
AW 23/24 Men’s Trends SS 24 Apparel Sourcing Trends
Vice President, Men’s Fashion Snoops
Vice President, Women’s Fashion Snoops
Nia Silva Director, Materials Fashion Snoops
Each FS Edit for Men + Women will act as a guiding blueprint for the season, inspired by our Design Aesthetics, which provides actionable considerations for AW 23/24.
Discover emerging themes in material innovations that will influence trends and new color direction across apparel, footwear and accessories for SS 24.