War Journalist Nadine Drummond
A LIFE LESS ORDINARY
Fashion, Beauty & Hair
SPRING TRENDS ISSUE
A case of cultural appropriation?
YOGAâ€™S TWISTED HISTORY
DIVERSITY GROUPS DIRECTORY Reach a wider targeted audience
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First Word: Rethinking English Heritage
Kunle Olulode, board member of English Heritage Trust, explains why would take pride in our national treasures
20 Subscribe To The Diversity Groups Directory Independent business owner? Reach a wider audience
30 Magazine Subscription Get the free magazine to your door
31 Feature: Yogaâ€™s Twisted History
A practice that originates from ancient African Culture?
53 Business: A Life Less Ordinary
Interview with journalist and activist Nadine Drummond about her work in Yemen
57 The Diversity Groups Directory
From cosmetics to fashion, job recruitment to mechanics, a showcase of vetted independent business
58 How To Get Your Free Magazine
Find out how to get a copy of The KOL Social each month
37 ON THE COVER Fashion: Bode Image: Imaxtree
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63 Travel: Togo
Living large in one of Africa’s smallest countries
From books to hair tools, win one of these fabulous items
68 Restaurant Review: Donnelly’s Restaurant A culinary gem in the industrial-cool postcode
From International Women’s Day Events to the best in podcasts, things to do in March
22 Spring Trends The newest looks to replenish your wardrobe
13 Interview: TV Present Ria Hebden
28 Detailed Orientated
Talks about the importance of celebrating International Women’s Day
Clue up on upgrading your accessories
16 Interview: Award-winning Author Sara Collins
71 Street Style
On her page-turning gothic love story: The Confessions of Frannie Langton
60 Arts: Funky Ol’ Medina A focus on Marrakech, North Africa’s newest art hub
Reinvent your signature look and check out those in the know
71 Street Style Check out those in the know
BEAUTY 36 The Beauty Hotlist What’s new for men and women
40 Shadows & Mirrors Cheat your way into a chiseled face
42 Holistic Beauty Desi Style What we can learn from Indian beauty routines that originates from the kitchen cupboard
44 Spring Hair Trends Get a new look
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48 Roots Revival Henna dyes are making a comeback. Find one for your hair or beard
One of the first Black board members of the English Heritage Trust, Kunle is the Director of Voice4Change that represents over 400 charities across England. He is also a curatorial, programme and audience development advisor to a wide range of cultural institutions including the British Library. With wideranging experience of policy development in the equalities and policy field, Kunle is a member of the Cabinet Office’s Democracy Council, which in 2018 oversaw events commemorating the 100th anniversary of the Representation of the People Act. He explains how much can be learnt about our history through English heritage in First Word on page 8.
Lisa joins The KOL Social team as the magazine’s Features Editor. Her book, Symona’s Still Single, will be published later this year by Jacaranda Books as part of the Twenty in 2020 initiative, celebrating Black British writers. Lisa also regularly hosts events, awards and Q&A’s. All about the devil is in the detail, her extensive research on yoga took her down a rabbit hole where she found that, despite the common belief that the practice originates from India, in fact, it stems from ancient Egyptian civilisation. In other words, yoga’s roots are in African culture. Read Yoga’s Twisted History on page 31.
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The KOL Social magazine is published monthly (12 months a year) by BurntCork Media Ltd, registered office (no deliveries) at 27 Old Gloucester Street, London WC1N 3AX, United Kingdom. Copyright © The KOL Social Ltd. All rights are reserved. Reproduction, in whole, or in part, without written permission, is strictly prohibited. Materials are accepted on the understanding that no liability is incurred for safe custody. The publisher cannot be responsible for unsolicited material. All prices are correct at time of going to press but are subject to change. Whilst every care is taken to ensure information is correct at time of going to press, it is subject to change and The KOL Social takes no responsibility for omissions or errors. We are committed to journalism of the highest standards and strive by the Editor’s Code of Practice, which is enforced by the Independent Press the Standards Association (IPSO). If you have a complaint, you can email us at email@example.com. It is our policy to publish clarifications and corrections when necessary and as quickly as possible. However, should you wish to take the matter further you can contact IPSO at Gate House, 1 Farringdon Street, London EC4M 7LG. www.ipso.co.uk or email complaints@ ipso.co.uk or call 0300 123 2220
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The Identity Issue
EDITOR’S PICKS Independent Ethical Fashion Brands
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Marcia Degia Publishing Editor
hen I was in secondary school, I forgot I was black. In my eyes I was just another suburban kid with homework being my only real angst in life. That was despite the threat of being suspended if I dared to wear my hair in braids and somehow I never made it onto the netball team despite playing at district level. It just never occurred to me that I was any different to my best mate - the very blonde - Melissa or my swimming pal Claire whose ginger hair caused her as much grief as my own, after a dip. Why would I? I was just a kid. That was until one Sunday I found myself upon a Pentecostal church in the midst of leafy Hampshire. For the first time, I encountered a large group of Black people who had gathered from miles around. I returned week after week, not because I was particularly religious, but to be surrounded by those who looked like me. Just like many of those present, it was all about identifying with a group. We seem to be doing the same thing in our workplace whether that is down to racism, misogyny or some other bias. Identity has many layers to it which affects the way we develop our affinities. Whilst progressive companies are doing much to introduce inclusion initiatives, for others it feels more about the optics and less about real measurable change. Achieving diversity should not be viewed as the goal but the outcome of maximising a company’s performance by understanding the power of seeing a situation from different perspectives. I hope that you enjoy this edition of The KOL Social magazine which aims to bring you alternative views from a range of people who can share their unique experiences.
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RETHINKING ENGLISH HERITAGE Shining a light on a history full of colour BY KU N LE OLULODE
Arguably, it is the most important legal step taken in paving the way for the abolition of slavery in England and contributing to its demise in North America. A story so compelling that it was made into a film called Belle, directed by Amma Asante MBE, starring actors Gugu MbathaRaw and Tom Wilkinson. Buildings, streets and statues across Britain commemorate people who may have been philanthropists, but also owned and traded slaves. Now a number of cities are starting to face up to their histories. One of the most important heritage organisations in the United Kingdom is The English Heritage Trust (EHT) that has 400 buildings, monuments and over 500,000 paintings. In a bold move EHT decided to move from under the auspices of the government and become an independent charity by 2023 whilst increasing the representation of cultural diverse people on its Board of Trustees, which now includes myself and historian David Olusuga. Prior to being a board member, my relationship with EHT was linked through its Blue Plaque scheme as Chair of Camden Council’s award winning Black History Forum. I witnessed Nelson Mandela, in person, come to pay a personal tribute to Ruth First and her husband, Joe Slovo who were exiled from South Africa to 13 Lyme Street in 2003. I went on to witness 8
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many other ceremonies. Possessing a thirst for historical knowledge and understanding I have had the opportunity, through monuments, buildings and artefacts, to engage with truly awe-inspiring and fascinating people. It has been said that, heritage may be the last bastion of susceptibility to ideas of diversity and social integration with its parallel relationship to historical xenophobic and racist definitions of Englishness. However, let us leave the debates to the academics and journalists and think about the cultural richness of our cities and how our presence has shaped what it means to be English in today’s modern world.
Portrait of Dido Belle and her cousin Lady Elizabeth Murray
English Heritage, which many of us were taught to believe has little relevance to our lives, is getting a makeover. The black presence in Britain continues to raise interesting challenges to the discourse of English heritage, whether its Nelson’s Column, Bristol demanding the distancing from it slavery owning past through the renaming of concert theatre Colston Hall due to its slave merchant origins or Kehinde Andrew taking a swipe at Bomber Harris statue in Hyde Park.
Quite simply, we are in an era where heritage has become inadvertently interesting and contested. What will the modern presence of ethnic minorities bestow on English heritage to the benefit of future generations? Human progress takes place through human cooperation, collaboration and the exchange of ideas, materials, intellect and labour. People of colour from all over the world are part of that narrative and human exchange. Take a deeper dive into English Heritage and you will find a remarkable slice of black history on the doorstep of nine million Londoners, freely available and accessible.
PHOTOGRAPH: COURTESY OF THE EARL OF MANSFIELD/SCONE PALACE
My current obsession is Kenwood House beside Hampstead Heath, once home to Dido Belle, the famous black niece of the veritable Chief Justice Lord Mansfield. It was he who decreed the Mansfield Judgement ruling in 1772 that ‘no master ever was allowed here (England) to take a slave by force to be sold abroad because he deserted from his service...therefore the man must be discharged’.
COM PIL ED BY M ARY F ITZS IMONS & AL EX MOSS
EVENTS, FILM, BOOKS & MUSIC
PARIS APARTMENT BY TOYIN OJIH ODUTOLA
There are plenty of exciting events going on around London to celebrate Womenâ€™s History Month, film buffs can delight in a number of festivals and, for those who seek respite from city activity, see our recommended TV programmes and podcasts.
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THEATRE Pass Over
An epic mash up of Waiting for Godot, the Exodus and the stories ripped from daily headlines, Antoinette Nwandu’s fierce and politically charged new play exposes the experiences of young black men in a world that refuses to see them. Runs until 21 March – kilntheatre.com
Kunene and the King
Queer Arts Festival
John Kani’s highly acclaimed play Kunene and the King marks the 25th anniversary of the end of apartheid in South Africa with a strictly limited London run at the Ambassadors Theatre following on from its premiere in Stratford-upon-Avon and the sold-out run in Cape Town. Runs until 28 March – ambassadorstheatre.co.uk
And What? Queer Arts Fest 2020
This edition of And What? brings together the (un)usual in home grown talent and international artistes, the brave, bold, under-and-overground of the queer avantgarde and the strong voices and diverse perspectives of the community. From 13-29 March – andwhatfest.com
Kehinde Wiley – The Yellow Wallpaper
The first solo exhibition of new work shown by American artist Kehinde Wiley at a UK museum. The works features exclusively women that the artist met on the streets of Dalston, and offer a visual response to American novelist Charlotte Perkins Gilman’s acclaimed feminist text, The Yellow Wallpaper (1892). On until 25 May – wmgallery.org.uk
Toyin Ojih Odutola
The first-ever UK exhibition by Nigerian-American artist Toyin Ojih Odutola, this epic cycle of new work will explore an imagined ancient myth, with an immersive soundscape by artist Peter Adjaye. On 26 March – 26 July – barbican.org.uk
Kehinde Wiley 10
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Toyin Ojih Odutola
Kunene and the King
Thierry Fischer Conducts Stravinsky
The Afrocentrics make a strong musical statement with their spellbinding afrobeat-funk-grooves hybrid, that create mesmerising sounds of pure dance floor euphoria built around rhythms that takes in jazz, salsa, reggae adding a modern twist. On 7 March – theatrepeckham.co.uk
Thierry Fischer Conducts Stravinsky
Former Royal Philharmonic Orchestra Artist-in-Residence Esther Yoo brings fire and ferocity to Tchaikovsky’s Violin Concerto, one of the most enduring concertos of the violin repertoire. On 10 March –southbankcentre.co.uk
Ivor Novello, Grammy and two-time BRIT Award nominated producer, DJ and multi-instrumentalist, Jax Jones, will bring the party to cities across the UK as he heads out on tour in support of his new album, Snacks. On 14 March – academymusicgroup.com/o2academybrixton
Grammy-nominated, multi-platinum selling artist, Kelis plays her only London show as part of her extensive European tour in 2020, to celebrate the 20th Anniversary of her first album Kaleidoscope. On 17 March – roundhouse.org.uk
The New York-born Puerto Rican MC, singer, songwriter, entrepreneur, style icon, actress, and activist amplifies her own voice across music, fashion, film, and society in 2019 and beyond. On 20 March – earthhackney.co.uk
London based singer songwriter James Numbere is a soul-pop artist with music that draws influences from R&B, reggae, world and African music. On 29 March – camdenassembly.com The Afrocentrics
LSO Platforms: Guildhall Artists
Ahead of LSO’s evening concert, Guildhall musicians including LSO Japan Scholar oboist Inoko Isobe perform chamber music by Benjamin Briiten. On 15 March – barbican.org.uk The KOL Social
Dane Baptiste: The Chocolate Chip
Dane is now a Grown Ass Black Man. Too old to be concerned with chicken or trainers and too young to be considered a peer of Trevor McDonald, has he got a chip on his shoulder? Yes, a chocolate one. Until 14 March – sohotheatre.com
EVENTS 6 Music Festival
The multi-award winning BalletBoyz are back and celebrating their 20th anniversary year. Deluxe fuses the work of dancer and choreographer Xie Xin, set to an original score by composer Jiang Shao-feng. From 25-27 March – sadlerswells.com
Taking place through the day and into the night, the festival will be spread across four Camden venues — Roundhouse, FEST Camden, Dingwalls and Electric Ballroom and feature live music, DJ sets, Q&As and more. On 6-8 March – ticketweb.uk
Women of the World Festival Over three days, WOW’s line-up of world-class speakers, activists and performers are joined by thousands to explore the state of gender equality across the globe and tackle the subjects that matter most to women and girls across the world today. On 6-8 March – southbankcentre.co.uk
Women of the World Festival
6 Music Festival
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Women inPOWERment TV Presenter Ria Hebden’s annual Wonder Women Live! event is always a complete sell-out. It’s not hard to see why.
In celebration of International Women’s Day, each year, the co-presenter of Sunday Morning Live on BBC One and regular face of the Weekend Wrap on ITV’s Lorraine hosts a celebratory event that recognises exceptional women who work in television and the creative Industries. Now in its third year, it brings 100 women together, to hear from a panel of three individuals who are leading the way. They share their career insights such as strategies on how to navigate institutional barriers and the support networks that have helped them on their path to success. Past panellists include Brenda Emmanus OBE, who is the Arts, Culture and Entertainment Correspondent for BBC London News and Angela Ferreira, managing director of Douglas Road Productions, a company established by Sir Lenny Henry in 2014. Why Wonder Women Live!? It’s a gathering of, what I like to call, phenomenal women who work in television and in the creative industries, who come together to share stories of how they got to where they are in their careers. To make new connections - it’s all about expanding their network to help elevate them in their job - to share wisdom and inspire each other. I wanted to create an event that celebrates women and it made sense to do it on International Women’s Day, but crucially, to bring people together to share how they got to where they are in their career so hopefully make it easier for women who may be side-stepping in their careers. Maybe they have had some time out to have a baby and they want to come back and do something different and they are not sure how to navigate that. Who can we look forward to this year? On the panel, we’ve got Donna Taberer, who is the Head of Talent
at the BBC. She’s responsible for recruiting the most senior people. Her experience is amazing; she used to be a commissioner at Sky and at Channel Five. She headed up the BBC Academy, which is the training arm of the BBC, for a very long time. She’s a heavyweight in terms of a senior leader in television. It is going be great to hear her story because she’s had that longevity so she’ll be able to talk about what’s changed in the past 20, 30 years and how it was when she was starting out. We’ve got Yiljan Nevzatis, a senior producer at ITV. She currently produces Lorraine but she’s worked on This Morning and lots of other daytime shows. I’m really interested to hear what she has to say because she works on live shows and that’s really high pressure, very demanding. The third person is a lady called Natasha Kendall, and she is the managing director of a post-production company called Envy; it’s won loads of awards and they do all kind of work for a lot
of television programmes and film. I’m interested to know about her story and how she services the industry that is very creative but equally very demanding. What are some of the challenges, how they are changing it and how she sees it evolving. So, it’s very diverse roles, but in the same industry. Name a ‘wonder woman’ in the industry who inspires you. I would have to say June Sarpong. She inspired me to become a presenter when she was on T4. A really intelligent woman, I’ve seen her speak at a couple of events and I had the pleasure of interviewing her for a Wonder Women podcast, last year. She’s just been appointed as Director of Creative Diversity at the BBC and I’m really looking forward to seeing how she mixes things up, not just at the BBC, but across the whole industry. She’s a bit of a thought leader for the industry so it would be good to see what she does.
The KOL Social is a media partner for Wonder Women Live! 2020 which takes place on 5 March at The Westworks, London W12. Tickets for are available online: wonderwomentv.com For information on The Wonder Women creator and host, Ria visit riahebden.com The KOL Social
The African Female Image in European Art
Black Nurses in Britain Before Windrush
Women With Influence: Beyond The Artist
Spanning different sectors of the art world, Louisa Buck, Enam Gbewonyo and Victoria Siddall, explore the incredible developments that are happening everyday and examine what can be done for the mentoring, visibility, promotion and access of leading women of the future. On 5 March – royalacademy.org.uk
We Have Always Been Here: A Queer Muslim Memoir
A triumphant story of forgiveness and
Women with Influence
freedom, We Have Always Been Here: A Queer Muslim Memoir is a rallying cry for anyone who has ever felt alone, discussed by Samira Habib and Sanah Ahsan. On 5 March – tate.org
Heroic Black Sailors of the 1800s
An illustrated talk with a selection of amazing true stories of free African and Caribbean sailors. They crossed oceans, seas and rivers performing exciting acts of valour that have been left out of history. On 9 March – blackhistorywalks.co.uk
Black Nurses in Britain Before Windrush
Black nurses trained and worked in
We Have Always Been Here
Asian Film Festival
BFI Flare London LGBTQ+ Film Festival
London LGBTQ+ Film Festival offers a vibrant and precious space for debate, compassion, community and empowerment. They celebrate sexual and gender diversity – all this, while watching great films from around the globe. On 18-29 March – bfi.org.uk 14
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Britain long before registration began. Stephen Bourne gives an illustrated talk about the lives of some of these women from the 1880s to the 1940. Organised by Royal College Of Nursing Library & Archives. On 10 March – eventbrite.co.uk
Queen of Sheba + Andromeda: The African Female Image in European Art
An illustrated review of how the representations of the Bible’s black women have been handled in canonical western art, and how their images have become white, demonised or disappeared over time. On 15 March – blackhistorywalks.co.uk
UK Asian Film Festival The UK Asian Film Festival offers an eclectic mix of films, stimulating interviews, outstanding masterclasses, workshops, live performances, visual arts exhibitions and an annual short film competition. The aim is to celebrate and award great films, filmmakers and artists from South Asia. On 25 March – 5 April – tonguesonfire.com
Toni Morrison: The Pieces I Am + Q&A With Publisher Margaret Busby OBE
The KOL Social has teamed up with BFI and African Odyssey to present the documentary about Toni Morrison, in her own words, with contributions from Fran Lebowitz, Oprah Winfrey and others. Directed by Timonthy GreenfieldSanders, the Nobel-prizewinning novelist, who died last year, reflects on her career. On 5 March – bfi.org.uk
Toni Morrison: The Pieces I Am
Giveaway Alert: Win a copy of Toni Morrison’s book: Mouth Full of Blood. Go to page 74
After the death of her grandmother, Teresa (Bárbara Colen) comes home to her matriarchal village in a near-future Brazil to find a succession of sinister events that mobilises its residents. Directed by Juliano Dornelles and Kleber Mendonça Filho, and stars Thomas Aquino and Silvero Pereira. Release date: 13 March.
To save her ailing father from serving in the Imperial Army as commanded by the Emperor (Jet Li), a fearless young woman (Yifei Lui) disguises herself as a man to battle northern invaders in China. Directed by Niki Caro and stars Donnie Yen. Release date: 27 March.
A hardened CIA operative (Dave Bautista) finds himself at the mercy of precocious 9-year old girl (Chloe Coleman), having been sent undercover to surveil her family. Directed by Peter Segal and stars Kristen Schaal. Release date: 13 March.
When estranged daughter Mae (Issa Rae) finds a photograph after the death of her mother, she soon finds herself delving into her mother’s early life, which leads to an unexpected romance with a rising journalist. Directed by Stella Meghie. Release date: 6 March.
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I’m New Here Gil Scott-Heron
Map of the Soul: 7 by BTS
The 10th Anniversary Edition features two unreleased tracks – a cover of Richie Havens’ Handsome Johnny and a previously unheard Scott-Heron song King Henry IV – as well as a selection of other recordings that were only previously available on a rare, vinyl only deluxe version of the LP.
The upcoming fourth Korean-language studio album by South Korean boy band BTS. The album, released by Big Hit Entertainment, is the follow-up to their 2019 extended play Map of the Soul: Persona. Out now. store.hmv.com
Rejoice Tony Allen and Hugh Masekela
A collaboration between Tony Allen, the legendary drummer and co-founder of Afrobeat, and Hugh Masekela, the master trumpet player of South African jazz. According to Allen, the album deals in “a kind of South AfricanNigerian swing-jazz stew.” Out 20 March.
Supervision La Roux
Grammy-winning, Brit and Mercury-Prize-nominated artist La Roux returns with her first new album since 2014’s Trouble In Paradise. From the cover to the contents, this is unequivocally the album Elly Jackson always wanted to make. Out now. normanrecords.com
11 Convenience Store Woman By Sayaka Murat (Granta Books, £8.99)
Keiko is 36 years old, she has never had a boyfriend, and she has been working in the same supermarket for 18 years. Her family wishes she would get a proper job, but Keiko knows what makes her happy, and she is not going to let anyone come between her and her convenience store. 16
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The Black Unicorn By Audre Lorde (Penguin Books Ltd, £8.99)
Filled with rage and tenderness, Audre Lorde’s most acclaimed poetry collection speaks of mothers andchildren,femalestrength and vulnerability, renewal and revenge, goddesses and warriors, ancient magic and contemporary America.
It’s Not About The Burqa By Mariam Khan (Pan Macmillan, £9.99)
When writer Mariam Khan found herself increasingly frustrated with a national discourse that marginalised Muslim women’s voices, she decided it was time for something new. Why was she only hearing about Muslim women from other people?
Untold Night and Day By Bae Suah (Vintage Publishing, £12.99)
Kim Ayami has worked at Seoul’s only audio theatre for the blind for two years, but now the theatre is shutting down and Ayami’s future is uncertain. In the inescapable, all-consuming heat of Seoul, order gives away to chaos and the edges of reality start to fray.
Award-winning author Sara Collins about her stunning debut book Ever wished for a book that turned slavery’s stereotypical narrative on its head? Then look no further than The Confessions of Frannie Langton. Not for the fainthearted, it is the dark and twisted Gothic tale of a former slave from Jamaica, now in London, who is accused of murdering her master and mistress, the latter with whom she was having an affair. How did The Confessions of Frannie Langton come to life? It was two things; one was that I had a very early lifelong love of classic Gothic romances like Wuthering Heights and Jane Eyre. I was a bookworm and still am. I read voraciously when I was younger but I had always been left with a sense that those books I loved didn’t quite love me back. I have this frustration about the fact that there had never been a Gothic romance starring a Black woman. I really wanted to put a Black woman centre-stagee where I hadn’t
seen one before. This idea that, in historical fiction, you’re only ever going to see black characters in one mode, and that mode is usually suffering or victimhood, was really troubling to me. So, that was the motivation but the seeds for the story came when I read the biography of Frances Barber, who was a young Jamaican boy who was brought to England in the 18th century. He was given as a gift to Samuel L. Johnson, who was a famous philosopher and who wrote the first dictionary. That set me offf on an investigation of these wonderfuully rich and complex stories of black liives in Loondon in the 18th and 19th centtury, whicch no one, so far as I can tell, had bothhered to do anything about in fiction before. Apart from a moviie abbout Dido Belle called Belle. Here waas this reaally fertile material. I thought combinin ng those two things; I wantedd to put a black woman centrestage in a Gothicc romance and that there waas all thiss untapped material about blaack lives.
Why do o you think that the book is so po opular? Itt’s showing people a side of history thhat they haven’t been shoown befoore. In particular for black reeaders, we are tired of seeeing ourselves in the sam me old way and we’re tired of our history bein ng entirely co-opted by the idea of slavery, andd by the stereotypical stoories about it. We’re reaady, in historical ficction, to see some lovve and adventure
and romance and complication, which is all there in the novel. Also, to see highly educated protagonists, to see people who are doing something in spite of their circumstances and who are kind of connecting us to the possibilities within ourselves. Having said that, my next thing is going to be much more contemporary, I’ve had enough of history for the time being. There must have been a lot of research going into this. Where did you source your material? It took me two years to research and write the book, but ideally I would have liked to have five years. I just didn’t. I was on a deadline with my agent. So at first, it was mainly the British Library, which is not only a great source of material but it’s also a nice place to work, wonderful access to all kinds of publications, the atmosphere of so many people working at the same time and the history of the place. I did a lot of research online in the Old Bailey archives, so I read as much as I could about old trials to try to get a sense of how they might have been conducted during the time. My favourite bit of research, handsdown, was a trip I took to Jamaica because there really isn’t any substitute for standing in the place that you’re trying to conjure up. I went to the Greenwood Plantation. I stood in their garden for quite a long while, one afternoon. From the spot where I was, I could just about see the dining room, which, when the plantation had been in use back in the day, had also served The KOL Social
as the library. It was there that I got the first inklings of this idea about the young girl who would be doing the same thing, essentially looking into the house and seeing the books, and being attracted to the books, and then learning as much as I had been all my life. So that really opened up the character for me. What did you find to be the most challenging? The most challenging thing for me in writing the book was self-doubt. Writing a book is a really interesting way of examining your own psyche, at times, and also finding your own resilience. There is a lot that conspires to stop you. For me, it was this war against perfectionism. I always doubted that I was capable of executing the kind of book that I had in my head. I gave up; about halfway through, when I really felt defeated, when the project still seemed so enormous and unmanageable. I just decided I was done with it and I felt a temporary relief. But during my sleep, the characters and the ideas started percolating again. By the time I’d woken up, I had some kind of energy pushing me back towards the work. I realised, as I continued doing it, that the protagonist I was writing about couldn’t take it for granted that she could have access to literature and the ability to write and have a story published. I had that chance, if I didn’t write it, no one else was going to do it. You are now adapting the book into a television screenplay, which has been optioned by Drama Republic, a UK production company. Who would you like to see direct it? Any black female director, someone like Zawe Ashton would be an absolute dream. Any of the black female directors who have been really making their mark recently. At the top of my list is Ava DuVernay, who I think is one of the icons of the industry. 18
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What is on your bookstand right now? I’ve got a proof from Dialogue Books, an imprint of Little Brown, they specialise in publishing books from marginalised communities. So, authors who are of colour or LGBTQ, are working class et cetera. This one is by Brit Bennett and it’s called The Vanishing Half. She’s a New York Times best selling author, and it’s a story of identical twins who are very light skinned and mixed. They grow up - one of them to pass for white to marry a white man and essentially disappear, and the other to bring her young black daughter back to the town that they were born in, as a single mother.
“I’m drawn to Gothic fiction, there’s a kind of catharsis in considering this dark material” The other thing on my bedside table is a stack of books about cults, because my second novel is going to be a love story set in a suicide cult, which is a really tall order. At the moment, I’m reading lots of nonfiction about some of the more interesting cults of the last 20 or 30 years. So, more light reading? (Laugh) I was interviewed about the book on TV once and they said, it seems that I’m a very dark, twisted person but I do think there’s something buried in fiction, and I’m drawn to Gothic fiction, there’s a kind of catharsis in considering this dark material. Not just because it’s a way we can kind of safely deal with things that might worry us or terrify us or preoccupy us. I think also because it’s that monster under the bed
idea that we’re actually quite drawn to and compelled by these dark stories. Part of it is because we’re just hoping things can turn out OK in spite of the odds. It’s that sort of anticipation, a page turning quality that I like in the novels I read so I’m trying to reproduce it in the novels that I write. Why do you think books by black authors are suddenly so in vogue? It’s in vogue for some people but for many of us, they’ve always been in vogue. I cut my teeth on the greats like Zora Neale Hurston, Toni Morrison and Alice Walker. I could not get enough, even though there weren’t enough. We know that there have always been excellent black writers. I think it seems now like there is a kind of renaissance because the publishing industry is just catching on to that. I don’t know how that’s happening, whether it’s being led by television, there’s also been a bit of renaissance in film and television. And the success of black led stories about black lives might be having an impact on other forms. But also just because there is darn good work around and maybe people are finally starting to take notice of that and give people a fair shot to get it out there and get it published. What message would you like readers to take away from your book? I’m a sucker for a love story and that’s what I wanted to write. First and foremost was a romance that left you thinking about the characters and rooting for them in spite of their difficulties. So, I think if there’s any one thing I would want them to take away from it, it’s that love is the transcendent thing, in spite of all of the other difficulties of circumstance or time period or whatever it might be, love is the thing that makes it worthwhile.
The Confessions of Frannie Langton (£8.99) is published by Penguin.. Giveaway Alert: Go to page 74
Hoodrat to Headwrap: A Decolonised Podcast
Ericka Hart and Ebony Donnley dismantle white supremacy and kiki in the cosmos, somewhere between radical hood epistemological black queer love ethics, pop culture, houseplants and a sea of books. open.spotify.com
TV The L Word: Generation Q
The groundbreaking drama series, The L Word revolutionised a generation, and now a new group of diverse, self-possessed LGBTQ+ characters who experience love, heartbreak, setbacks and success in LA. Created by Michele Abbott, Ilene Chaiken, Kathy Greenburg and Marja-Lewis Ryan. Stars Jennifer Beals, Katherine Moening and Leisha Hailey. sky.com
Kalki Presents: My Indian Life
Life for young Indian adults in the 21st Century explored by Bollywood actor Kalki Koechlin. Real stories from India – sometimes raw, often uplifting. bbc.co.uk
Lou Mensah engages people who challenge ideas of race and identity. Talking to policy makers, scholars, writers, psychologists and image-
makers, at a time when identity politics is at the forefront of our cultural landscapes. shadepodcast.co.uk
Two Two’s Podcast Two black lesbians living in London speaking their unapologetic truth whilst creating a safe space for people like themselves and bridging the gap between LGBT+ people and cisgendered – straight people. open.spotify.com
The L Word: Generation Q
Annie (Aidy Bryant) is a woman who wants to change her life – but not her body. Annie is trying to make it as a journalist while juggling bad boyfriends, sick parents and a perfectionist boss, while the world around her deems her not good enough because of her weight. Created by Aidy Bryant, Alexandra Rushfield and Lindy West. Also stars Lolly Adefope and Luka Jones. bbc.co.uk/iplayer Shrill
A thriving but underground drugs business is being run by Dushane (Ashley Walters) and his friend Sully (Kane Robinson) who want to be the richest men on the block. To live rich, Dushane and Sully go into partnership with top don Bobby Raikes (Geoff Bell). Created by Ronan Bennett. netflix.com
Set in an alternative reality where masked vigilantes are treated as outlaws, Watchmen embraces the nostalgiaoftheoriginalgroundbreaking graphic novel of the same name, while attempting to break new ground of its own. Created by Damon Lindelof, and stars Regina King, Yahya AbdulMateen II and Jeremy Irons. sky.com The KOL Social
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BY RU DO M AS H ONGAM H ENDE
ALL IMAGES: IMAXTREE
Hibernation time is over, it is time to bolt into spring fashion
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SPRING TRENDS Versace
Replenish your closet with the season’s hottest looks
will pull off, and what your confidence will allow. It certainly does not have to be a monochrome affair like at GmbH and Iceberg. Magliano and Hermès illustrate how just a dash goes a long way, and for highly skilled co-ordination, look to Alyx for hair inspiration too.
Pink is the colour for men, in fact, just imagine all the others are on holiday because it truly is one hue to rule them all. The best thing is that every shade is on the table, so research what your skin tone
Poise and skill are needed to wear white, so for beginners, opt for a simple midi dress like at Mui Mui, or a ruffled blouse by Victoria Beckham. Once practiced, up the ante with an ornate jacket and matching skirt as seen at Ralph & Russo, and just sit back, with a safe perimeter undoubtedly and enjoy the compliments.
luorescent is easy to master, pick the brightest colours and wear them one at a time or paired together. It is loud and proud, and may induce mixed reactions from your friends, but it is completely worth it. From the runway, clothing ranged from a fuschia trench at Koché, a lime green mini skirt and jacket at Courrèges and an orange full-length evening skirt at Tom Ford.
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Satin, the glossy fabric normally more associated with womenswear or jockeys, has been given its time to shine. It is more versatile than you would think, elegant suits and overcoats were spotted at Dior Homme and Dunhill. If that it just a bit too conspicuous, then try just a shirt from Sies Marjan, Loewe or Dries Van Noten. Luxuriousisnotwhatcomestomindwhen thinking of crochet, but this is the case now that Giambattista Valli has transformed it into a fringed cape. Salvatore Ferragamo elevated it into a slinky maxi dress, and John Simkhai produced a midi dress with matching cardigan. This is not what your
Over in the women’s department, leather lovers will have to exercise restraint because it will be everywhere, and in every bright colour you can imagine. Kate Spade has a grass green dress, Lacoste has lemon yellow trousers, Louis Vuitton has a lilac trench coat and Coach 1941 has a multitude of options. Just ensure it is supple, it is luxurious, and it screams of spring.
Men’s shirts are exceptionally hardworking pieces of clothing, so have two distinct styles for spring. For fans
Utilitarian continues from A/W 2019 but with even more gusto with pockets seen in more collections, such as leather and suede hooded cargo jackets and sandals at Fendi. Trousers are not ignored, cargo pants from the nineties have made their PAINT SPLATTER return for a new generation. Styles vary AND BLEACHED from billowing to fitted, drawstring to button waistband, there is pair for all from Wooyoungami and Liam Hodges. Louis Vuitton excels at this trend, adding is plentiful, like an Altuzurra patchwork extra compartments to clothes and silk, navy dress or Michael Kors accessories alike, just remember which chocolate brown shorts complimented one your phone is in. by a matching blouse. Lanvin drapes the pattern over a sparkly mini dress, but the Polka dots are one of the most stand out piece is a full-length orange recognisable patterns, and these are ruffled gown at Moschino. grown up and appropriately modern. The variety of shapes, fabrics and colours A summer floral is to be expected, but tropical nights is so dangerously sexy, a handle with care label should be obligatory. Versace cemented the trend CROCHET by updating their infamous dress that J-Lo wore for Grammys in 2000. Head to Giorgio Armani for an understated evening dress, Isabel Marant for casual jackets and trousers, and Fendi for everything but the kitchen sink
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Leather oozes so much sex appeal, you may need private security whenever you wear it. The biker jacket for Spring/ Summer 2020 is available in more than just black, like silver at Dolce & Gabbana and navy at Giorgio Armani. For more detailing, Versace has tassels for days, and go punk at Philipp Plein with studs and rhinestones. Leather trousers are updated with a more wearable loose rather than tight cut. If you want to stay away from black, midnight blue at Lanvin, brown at Hermès and grey at Louis Vuitton are excellent options.
of boat shoes, the Oxford now comes with panelling and is cut oversized, for a less stiff, preppy look. Draw inspiration from White Mountaineering, Etro and Jacquemus. If you prefer colour and short sleeves, then the bowling shirt is for you, seen rippling down the catwalk in tropical print at Valentino. For a change of pace, go for East Asian influenced dragons at Dsquared2, and for every print under the sun, Dolce & Gabbana have you covered.
S.R. Studio. LA. CA. Frère
grandmother made for your birthday, but it will certainly become a family heirloom.
Decoratorsrejoice!Yourworkwardrobes are currently worth a bob or two, so cash in immediately before you miss the boat. Paint splattered clothing is hot to trot, so to perfect your technique, look to Rochas with their artsy camouflage print trousers, and Berluti with their beautiful bleed through patterned shirts. If you have ever been too heavy handed with the bleach, or faded something but did not have the heart to throw it out, you are also in luck, S.R. Studio. LA. CA. flaunts brazenly. The KOL Social
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Polka dots like you have never seen them beforee, micro and oversized, and clashed with other prin nts. Carolina Herrera
SPOT THE PATTERN
Dries Van Noten
Dolce & Gabbana
3.1 Phillip Lim
Luxurious leather hitting all colour spectrums. The meek may want to seek refuge in chic tan.
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Dolce & Gabbana
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Three shirt rules: The Oxford is oversized, the bowling is patterned and the silky louche is worn as open as possible.
Dior Homm me
The most unexpected colour trend for men spans from a basic pair of shorts all the wayy to a full blown suit
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Ludoovic Saint Sernnin
Emporio Arm mani
Dolce & Gabbana
For more street style fashion visit: thekolsociaa l.com/faa shion
DETAIL ORIENTATED SHOES
Square toe, orthopaedic and platform sandals
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Introduce these key items to your wardrobe, this season, to ultra-upgrade your accessories
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Oscar De La Renta
Dolce & Gabbana
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Yoga’s Twisted History Take a deep breath for a new reality. Lisa Bent reveals how, despite the general belief that Yoga originates from India, it was first practiced by an ancient Black civilization.
hether you have tried it or not, everyone has heard about Yoga. More than a buzzword, this practice is as accessible as your local newsagent. It is commonly known to have originated in India, evidenced in sculptures and scriptures that date back to the 10th Century. However, research shows that it began in Africa, Kemet, which means “Black Land,” now known as Egypt in the 10th Millennium, that is, 10,000 years Before Christ.
Crab postion: Ancient Egyptian of woman on a broken piece of ceramic material found on an archaeological site.
The term is from Sanskrit India and means to “Yoke” or to “Link” individual consciousness with universal consciousness. The ancient Egyptian term is called “Sema” or “Smai” which means union. “Smai Tawi” or “Smai Taui” becomes the “union of the two lands” which translates to the merging of lower and higher self to “know thy self” and this signifies Egyptian yoga. More than a form of exercise, it is a religion, a spiritual discipline leading to enlightenment and healing through the re-connection of mind and body to the original source, God. The KOL Social
FEATURE Facing Down Dog Position: The Eygptian goddess Nut positioned over Geb
The most ancient writings in our historical period are from ancient Egyptians, whom were African people living in the Northeastern quadrant of the continent of Africa. We refer to these writings as Hieroglyphics, of which the ancient name is called Metu Neter, meaning the “Writing of God” or “Divine Speech,” which are inscribed in papyruses, temples, tombs, statues and obelisk. The symbols are more than a mythological record of life years ago, they are the first historical record of ancient Egyptian religion and it is here that all of the major forms of Indian yoga can be found. Bhagavad Gita, Mahabharata and Patanjali Yoga Sutras are usual cited as the original sources of yogic philosophy and teaching, but evidence shows this is incorrect. One of the treasures discovered in Tutankhamun’s tomb by British archaeologist Howard Carter in 1922, was a carving on a chair of Shu, the male God of wind and air thought to represent the concept of breath. The sun disk above his head represents the crown chakra which refers to higher states of consciousness and the two snakes either side of him represent the channels in which energy flows through the body. Sitting in the Pose of Immortality, now known as Kneeling Twist on a platform that represents Nub, the ancient Egyptian word for gold, signifies the ultimate purpose of the practice of Yoga, to achieve the highest level of consciousness. Another example of evidence is engraved on the ceiling of the Temple of Aset. Geb, God of the Earth, is in plough pose.
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Framing him is Nut, goddess of the sky in a forward fold yoga pose. You will not look at Hieroglyphics in the same way again.
Research shows that yoga is part of Indian heritage due to the migration of this practice from Africa into India, where it was eventually adopted. There are five recognised disciplines of yoga; Wisdom, Devotional Love, Meditation and physical postures of yoga, Selfless Action and Serpent Power otherwise known as Kundalini and Tantric yoga. Each branch of has a different path and philosophy towards self-improvement and enlightenment. In the 20th Century, Hatha was the most widely practiced form of yoga in the UK and America. Time is spent on each pose as the focus is on stretching in order to reach the primary goal, to increase mental and spiritual awareness through physical health and balance. So how did it arrive here?
The United States immigration services placed restrictions on Indian immigration in 1924, which meant Westerners wanting to learn yogic teachings had to travel to the East. Pattabhi Jois created Ashtanga Vinyasa Yoga in 1948, which led to Power yoga. The quota was lifted in 1965, which brought a new wave of Eastern teachers. B.K.S Iyengar created Iyengar Yoga, his book Light on Yoga (1966) is described as “The Bible of Modern Yoga” due to the description of 200 Asanas, or postures, illustrated with 600 photographs. This was the first type of yoga to arrive in the UK.
Public funded classes were taught in 1970 until the 1980’s, when they became privatised due to Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher cutting funds. By the 1990’s, the beginning of the yoga boom, studios began to appear in city centres. Russia-born Eugenie Peterson changed her name to Indra Devi and taught yoga as a form of exercise, focusing on postures and breath control known as Pranayama, to Hollywood celebrities. Nicknamed “The First Lady of Yoga” she packaged it to women as a beauty secret. Other variations of Hatha Yoga within the 20th Century include Ashtanga, Viniyoga, Sivananda and Bikram Yoga that has spread across America, Europe and the rest of the world.
The heat surrounding Bikram Yoga eventually moved to the man himself, as allegations surrounding Choudhury’s conduct and behaviour emerged. In 2011, Pandhora Williams sued him for racial discrimination after he kicked her off the course when she questioned his homophobic rant. Six women have since accused Bikram of rape, whilst four cases were settled, they are yet to receive compensation and no criminal charges have been issued. He fled the country and continues to teach around the world.
Mark Singleton is a scholar of Yoga and Senior Research at SOAS, University of London. He acknowledges the radical break from the origins of Hatha Yoga and ancient tradition as the practice, now in the 21st Century, focuses more “The time for yoga Bikram Choudhury, founder of Bikram on physical strength. This tends to Yoga, a series of 26 fixed Yoga postures incorporate the fast paced nature of to find itself again practiced in a hot environment of aerobics combined with gymnastic may have arrived” 40 celsius, caught the yoga wave. poses. It therefore comes as no surprise At the height of his success he had that there has been a rise in related approximately 650 franchised studios. injuries. The British Medical Journal From Calcutta, India he moved to Beverly Hills in the published a study, in 2018, citing a 64 per cent rise in injuries early 1970’s and quickly built a celebrity endorsed fitness to the hip, hamstring and knee. The hard nature of the poses, empire. He has reportedly amassed a fortune of $75 million coupled with, yes you have guessed it, looking good for with a fleet of 43 luxury cars. In the same timeline, Yirser Instagram are the main reasons. Is the practice becoming Ra Hotep creator of the YogaSkills Method and the most even more removed from its original purpose as a result? senior instructor of Kemetic Yoga in the United States was involved with the original research and documentation of Although yoga is often thought to have originated from Kemetic Yoga (Egyptian Yoga) with master instructor Dr. India, the poster child is usually a slim, fit, Caucasian Asar Ha-pi. Through his YogaSkills School, he has trained woman. The industry as a whole is not known to be as and certified thousands of the Kemet Yoga teachers. diverse or as welcoming as you would perhaps expect and there has been a wealth of discussion around this. In-turn, a more diverse group of teachers are coming through and creating alternative spaces. Things change and evolve naturally over time, however, ancient yoga and its purpose is a system for living in unison and connection. The time for yoga to find itself again may have arrived. Classes in the UK are open to everyone and may be labelled as African, Afrikan, Kemetic (incorporates tongue connection as a way to move the energy through the body) or Egyptian Yoga, however, they all lie in the ancient tradition. The practice of physical movements relate to the elements: Earth (Geb), Water (Hapi), Air (Shu) and Fire (Ra or Re), they are fluid and combine the control of breath and rhythm and the movements work together in harmony. Interested? SJ Martin, founder of House of Highlife, teaches Smai Twai Yoga once a month at The Curtain, in Shoreditch. For non-members it’s £15, members can attend for free (houseofhighlife.com). Amani Eke holds Melanin in Bloom on Thursdays in Peckham, South London at £12 per class. Friday classes in Nunhead, South London work on a sliding scale, where you pay what you can £14, £10 or £6. @melanin_in_bloom The KOL Social
BY AV ERY S COTT
ALL IMAGES: IMAXTREE
A makeup salad of trends takes us into spring whilst hairstyles tosses up its own unique menu.
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Cleansing Exfoliator, £15.99 (100ml) LU Skincare
The Body Oil, £40 (100ml) Olverum
Gym Fit Cream, £22.99 (100ml) The HuGG Co.
With Neroli and Sweet Orange essential oils, it is perfect for sensitive skin. Contains oats, extremely effective at penetrating moisture deep into the skin, and almonds that are rich in vitamin E and an anti-oxidant. Diversity Groups Directory Alert: Go to page 59
This deeply moisturising formula contains Raspberry Seed Oil, a skinsuperfood and potent anti-oxidant, rich in Omegas 3, 6 and 9, which leaves skin feeling, plumped and rejuvenated. Also contains Alaria Esculenta extract preserving skin’s firmness and elasticity.
Pre or post workout wonder moisturising cream is enriched with Sunflower Seed Oil, Shea Butter, Glyceryl Stearate, Cocoa Butter, Coconut, Olive Oil, Vitamin E, Lactic Acid to allow tight areas on the body to feel supple and moisturised.
Nourishing Cleanser, £33 (50ml) Jane Scrivner Deeply cleanses the skin whilst maintaining the acid mantle function. Contains over 87% organic jojoba oil, a hydrating, pro-collagen and proelastin oil and also rich in essential fatty acids, which replicates skin’s natural sebum / lipid production.
Beauty Hotlist The latest beauty products for men and women.
Hydration Recovery Aerating Gel Mask £19.90 (150ml) Lumene Innovative water-gel formula helps to provide a fully hydrated, soft and supple skin. Contains pure Arctic spring water to promote a healthylooking complexion and replenishing organic Nordic Birch.
Intense Serum, £18 (30ml) Avène
Coolingg Water Eye Patches, £20.50, Milk Make Up
Men’s Energising Face Sheet Mask £4.99, Skin Republic
A hardworking serum with fast results. Formulated with Avène Thermal Spring Water and patented Cohederm to form water reservoirs in dehydrated skin and replenish the skin barrier, for long lasting and effective rehydration.
De-puffing under-eye gel patches are infused with caffeine to support microcirculation to energise under the eyes. Formulated with natural seawater, aloe and lavender to calm and hydrate.
Comes in two sections: one for the top and another for the bottom of the face so works well with beards as it can be placed over the top, and is also great as a post-shave treatment. Perfect for tired, dry skin and the onset of wrinkles.
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ALL IMAGES: IMAXTREE
From wearing two different contrasting eyeshadows on each eye to splashes of neon, check out the many different makeup trends hitting us, this spring
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De La Renta
GLOSS THE LINE Shimmer and shine on the eyes, lips or cheeks. NARS Multiuse Gloss in First Time (£20) will take your look to another dimension. narscosmetics.co.uk
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Create a smoky eye, shape in modern cat-eyes or simply wear a pop in the inner creaseas of your eyes. Pat McGrath Labs Mothership III Eyeshadow Palette in Subversive (£115) will have you coloured. patmcgrath.com
NEON Fluorescent colours paired with darker skin is an in-your face no brainer. Urban Decay Wired Eyeshadow Palette, £39 will brighten up both day and night. urbandecay.co.uk
Ralph & Russo
DRAW THE LINE
Mrhua Mrshua Ferragamo
Face jewellery is nothing new in African and Indian culture. Put a modern spin on it with MAC Galactic Glitter, £16.50 (4.5g). maccosmetics.co.uk
Whether you choose to go cat eye, experiment with colour or take it to facial pastures new get precision perfect with W7 Cosmetics Skinny Mini Micro Eyeliner (£4.95) – w7makeup.co.uk
MULTI & MISMATCHED Mix unexpected bright shades for a limitless expression of your artistic abilities. Coordination is no longer a key factor and Juvia’s Place The Zulu, (£15) is just the palette playpen. juviasplace.com The KOL Social
SHADOWS & MIRRORS Cheat your way to chiselled cheekbones, reshape your nose and sculpt your face by mastering contouring BY AVERY SCOTT & FERZANA AWAN
akeup contouring, a technique using shading, can enhance and define facial features however you like. Beginners would be pleased to know that it is less complicated than it might seem at first and you only need two products. A highlighter, which should be two shades lighter than your natural skin tone, used to brighten the skin area and make it more prominent. A shader, that is slightly darker than the colour of your skin, to contour. Whether you decide to use a cream or powder product, the golden rule is to keep it consistent. Layering different textures can cause a caked-on effect and it will be difficult to blend. Select the formula based on your skin type and texture. If your makeup tends to settle into fine lines or you have dry skin, go with a cream contour. If you have an oilier skin type or you want a matte finish, use a powder. It is important to arm yourself with the correct tools for the best results. If you are working with powder, use a brush for full control but be sure to tap it to remove excess product before application. For liquids or creams, it is best to blend with a dampened cosmetic sponge or use your fingertips to warm and melt the makeup for a seamless finish. First, prepare the skin with a moisturiser and a makeup primer followed by your normal complexion makeup, whether that is foundation, tinted moisturiser or BB cream. Your face shape and facial features will determine the best way to contour your face. The general idea is to shade the areas you want to sculpt and highlight those you want to accentuate. The key to mastering the technique is to follow the shadows of your face. Typically, you should contour below your cheekbone, down the length of your nose on either side, around your hairline and along your jaw line.
DE LA RENTA
Starting from your ear, shade just below the cheekbone on both sides of your face, towards your mouth at a 45-degree, stopping in line with your pupil. The widest part of the contour line
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To define the jawline and slim down the neck, applying the dark contour along the length of your jaw and around your chin. Blend downwards to create a flawless shadow. For a subtle sculpture, use an angled brush to “It is important hug the natural contours to arm yourself of your face and blend with the correct back and forth.
Sculpt & Glow Contour Duo, £16, Lily Lolo – lilylolo.co.uk
Hollywoood Contourr Wand, £29, Charlotte Tilbury – charlottetilbury.com Match Stix Trio, £46, Fenty Beauty – fentybeauty.com
To make your nose appear smaller, using a small angled brush, start at the inner corners of your eyebrows and paint a thin line down towards the tip. Repeat on the other side of your nose. Blend outwards. Apply the highlighter down the bridge of the nose to the tip. Once you have fully blended your makeup, ensuring that you have no harsh lines, the final stage is to set your T-zone with setting powder and then mist your face with a setting spray.
FLATTER YOUR FACE SHAPE Contouring techniques can vary according to your face shape whether it is round, long or oval, and so it is essential to identify before application. Square: If the width of your forehead, cheekbones and jaw are all nearly the same soften the edges by contouring along the perimeter of the face. Round: You have a round-shaped face if the width and length are equal
Sculpting Face Powder Duo £29, Illamasqua – Illamasqua.com
tools for the
To make your forehead best results” appear smaller apply the darker shade up into your hairline until fully blended. Using the same applicator, bring down towards your temples to create the illusion of a slimmer face.
Custom Contour Duo, £31, Stila – stila.co.uk
and have gentle, rounded corners. An angular shape can be created by contouring the sides of the forehead, along the temples, below the cheekbones and on the jawline. Oval: The forehead is larger than the jawline, the face length is larger than the width of the cheekbones and the angle of your jaw is rounded. Focus on contouring facial features. Long: The forehead, cheekbones, and jawline are similar in size, but the face length is the largest. The illusion of a shorter shape can be
Chubby in The Nude Foundation Stick, £24, Clinique – clinique.com
HIGHLIGHTERS Illluminator, £24, Nars – narscosmetics.com Pure Gold Synchro Skin Illuminator, £33 (40ml) Shiseido – shiseido.cco.uuk
Touche Éclatt' Stick Glow Shot, £23.50, Yves Saint Laurent – slbeauty.co.uk
created by applying contour along the forehead and jawline. Heart: The forehead is the widest part of the face, the chin is pointed and there may be a widow’s peak at the hairline. Contour the bottom half of the face to soften the shape of the chin.
Diamond: A pointed chin and high cheekbones, with a narrower hairline than that of a heartshaped face. Contour the sides and centre of their forehead to make it appear longer.
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should be closest to the hairline and the thinnest towards the end. It should look almost tapered. Blend, following the line and add more product if you desire a more sculptured look. Apply a highlighter along the tops of your cheekbones to accentuate. For powder formulas, use a flat brush as its packed bristles hold more powder and will distribute evenly on the skin.
HOLISTIC BEAUTY DESI STYLE Given Ayurveda’s age-old heritage, it is not surprising that many Indian beauty routines originate in the kitchen. BY SHAD I YAH MARS H AL L
ver 5,000 years old, the practice of Ayurveda is a system of natural healing designed to balance the body through diet, routine and skincare. This is determined by one’s dosha, or constitution, to balance energies, prevent disease and preserve health. We all have elements of the three doshas although one will dominate; Vata (Wind), Pitta (Fire) and Kapha (Earth). The power behind Ayurvedic beauty products is that ingredients are edible. Food that is nutritionally beneficial for your body is incorporated into skincare preparations. Look for labelling that refers to your dosha, or tridoshic products that work for all skin types. That, or raid the kitchen cupboards. Turmeric: The most classic Indian skincare recipe is the turmeric mask that has been used for centuries and is still number one for pre-bridal beauty preparations. Commonly associated with cooking and giving food a brilliant orange colour, as well
as for its medicinal properties, its antibacterial properties and instant brightening effects will combat dull or marked skin. As a face mask, the golden spice works by interrupting the skin's melanin process. It naturally inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase that catalyzes pigment production, therefore, evening out dark patches. Rose Water: A basic ingredient in any Indian pantry that is commonly used in sweet dishes, rose water is favoured as an everyday skin soother. The Himalayas have more than 15 different rose species that are celebrated for their healing properties. Since ancient times it has been used as a facial toner to balance skin pH and with its antiinflammatory properties it is perfect for calming the skin. It makes an amazing face spritz and it is a perfect marriage to any mask. Multani Mitti: Commonly known as Fullers Earth or bentonite clay, it is used in many beauty products due
Mario Baadescu Facial Spray with Aloe Herbs & Rosew water £12 (118ml) –
Kiehl’s Rare Earth Deep Pore Cleansing Masque £26 (125mll) –
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to its powerful qualities. Going back as far as the 1800s, Multani Mitti was historically used to clean wool of dirt and contaminants by textile workers, or fullers. In latter years, it was formulated to suit beauty purposes, making it more fine-grained and increasing the water content. The deep cleaning and oil-absorbing properties make it a natural skin dermabrasion. Like turmeric, it has pigmentinhibiting properties that brighten the complexion. Gram Flour: Made from chickpea and traditionally known as besan, it has an excellent ability to fade away pigmentations and scars giving an even complexion. The zinc within it helps fight infections and like bentonite clay, it also has oil-absorbing properties. It is used in several ways most commonly a mask, mixed with turmeric, honey, and rose water, scrub and as a face wash. The benefits do not stop there;, the protein powder also has hair minimising properties.
Meddimix Ayurvedic Deepp Cleansing Face Washh with Besan & Honeyy, £5 (100m ml) –
Originss Never A Dull Moment Skin-Brightening Facee Polisher with Fruit Extracts, £28 (125ml) – origins.co.uk
Food that is nutritionally beneficial for your body is incorporated into skincare preparations
SPRING HAIR TRENDS
Whilst natural hairstyles for textured hair remain popular and are not going away anytime soon, this season, specifically colour and accessories, it is all about letting your inner light shine.
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The cultural stapleâ€™s renaissance continues strong and creativity holds no bounds from pencil thin cornrows to girlish pigtails and loose plaits to waist-length diva.
BOLD COLOUR Fashion East
Push the boundaries with standout shades. Blue is the front-runner, this year, but whatever hue you decide upon, the key is to keep it healthy and looking glossy. Longchamp
For those of you who do not have naturally curly hair, the perm is back. For a less permanent solution, the simple curler will do. Giveaway alert: Your chance to achieve the look with Curlfomers on page 74
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Go platinum or go home. If you plan on taking the plunge, go all the way. Those with textured hair should proceed with precaution if other chemical processes are involved.
BLUNT FRINGE A cut straight across, without any elevation, with no layers or graduation in the cut, is best suited on those with oval-shaped faces.
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Dries Van Noten
Traditionally associated with straight or wavy hair, those with curls can get in on the act, too. Hair is layered to various lengths so that it full at the crown and thin at the edges.
DECORATED BRAIDS Dress up your plaits to set off your style with jewellery from traditional wooden beads to costume gems and colour ribbons to gold leaf hair foil. Can also be applied to twists and locs. Anna Sui
SHAPED TEXTURED HAIR
CDLM Creatures Wind Kate Spade
Rag and Bone
Add style and definition to medium length or long hair with a severe side or mid parting, mould into an edgy mohawk or flat ‘fro. Subtly does not work here.
STYLISED DREADLOCKS Add curls for extra texture, scoop half up and half down, decorate with jewels or simply change the position of the parting. Want more? Try a skin-fade or ombré-tips for a modern twist. The KOL Social
Lush Rouge Henna, £13, (325g)
Henne Colour Henna Hair Colour £7.49 (100g)
Godrej Nupur Henna, £4.89 (120g)
Best Henna Dyes For Your Hair & Beard
Radico Colour Me Organic, £9.55 (100g)
Berber’s Treat Moroccan Henna Powder, £9.99 (100g)
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Given the rising beauty trend for clean products, it stands to reason that henna is having a new lease of life. The dry powder dye, made from the henna plant leaves that are found in Africa and Asia, has been used for centuries to dye skin and hair. Completely natural, it only coats the outside of each strand instead of penetrating under the cortex and therefore the structure of the hair remains intact.
Henna, Wine Red, £9 (3.52oz)
Khadi Pure Henna, £12.95 (100g)
The Henna Guys Pure Henna Powder For Hair Dye, £12 (200g)
Available at Superdrug and Boots stores nationwide
Ingenious Active £79.99 (25-day supply) Ingenious A uniquely formulated supplement to enhance sport performance, increase endurance and reduce postwork out recovery time, Ingenious Active combines collagen, hyaluronic acid and astaxanthin, essential for supporting healthy skin, hair, nails and joints, together with exciting new patented ingredients. It is suitable for vegetarians. feelingenious.com
Stand Up & Sit Down Alternate whilst you work Standing or sitting all day is not good for your health, yet many employers require their employees to do just that. Appropriate variation is the key and here is why.
1. Improves Concentration
Variation ensures better blood circulation throughout your whole body, including your brain which gets more oxygen to function optimally. This translates into an improved level of concentration.
2. Increases Creativity
Magnesium Flakes, £9.95 (1kg) Better You Find your inner magnesizen through a delicate routine of supplementing magnesium through the skin. Responsible for over 300 different actions in the body, it is a vital nutrient that acts as a natural aid to muscle recovery and relaxation – with a magnesium-rich body being stronger, more flexible and better able to resist both physical and emotional stress. Add to your bath to help soothe tired and aching muscles for the ultimate relaxation. betteryou.com Giveaway Alert: Go to page 74
Herb & Fruit Tonic, £29.99 (month supply) Ojamin A daily wellness supplement made from a blend of 14 herbs and fruits sustainably sourced from rainforests and blended using pure spring water. Inspired by traditional Indian Ayurvedic tonic, key ingredients include antiinflammatory turmeric Aloe Vera to strengthen hair and nails and Neem which helps to regulate blood glucose levels. Vegan friendly and gluten free. ojamin.com Giveaway Alert: Want to try it for yourself? Go to page 74
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Research shows that by alternating between a sitting and standing position, or better still, taking a short walk, the brain is able to generate 2.5 times new ideas.
3. Burns More Calories
Typing on a keyboard burns only 34 kcal. However, when you alternate between standing and sitting, your heart pumps about 10 times as much blood through your body compared to someone who only sits.
4. Standing Gives More Energy
You are less likely to be overwhelmed by a feeling of sleepiness, generally more noticeable during the afternoon that can have a negative effect on your performance at work.
5. Live Longer
Research conducted by the University of Missouri-Columbia shows that being seated for a long period has a negative effect on one’s metabolism and can increase the risk of developing diabetes and heart conditions. The solution is to allow for flexibility within the work environment. Office furniture must be suitable for both sitting and standing while working and employees should be trained in the appropriate way to stand whilst at work.
ProPlus 36, £365, Varidesk Turns any desk into a standing desk, the two-tier design has an upper display surface, lower keyboard/mouse deck. uk.varidesk.com
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Beau ty, fas hion, l ifes tyle and cu l tu re
B REAK ING TH E G L ASS CEIL ING
War journalist Nadine Drummond on the dangers and rewards of working on the frontline in Yemen
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A LIFE LESS ORDINARY War journalist Nadine Drummond reveals that life on the frontline is much worse than you think
muggling herself out of Ethiopia during a state of emergency during an uprising between tribes was not enough to deter Nadine Drummond from life or death situations. The former producer at Al Jazeera Network and self-termed activist journalist took her filmmaking skills to report on the Yemen crisis. The ongoing conflict that began in 2015 is between two factions: the Abdrabbuh Mansur Hadi led Yemeni government and the Houthi armed movement, along with their supporters and allies. Both claim to constitute the official government of Yemen. There, working for The Save The Children Fund, Nadine revolutionised the way in which the non-governmental organisation told its stories to reach a wider audience and increase much needed donations. You do not see many black war correspondents or is this something not well known? It’s usually white men that do my job, and few white women, but it’s usually white men. When I went to Yemen, people were shocked because most of the people that look like me occupy the lowest stratum of the Yemeni society. Women that were cleaners, maids or assistants in my building or even in the house I lived in, all looked like me. They are black and Arab mixes, variations, some of them are of Ethiopian descent from a hundred years ago, and some of them are of straight Yemeni descent. It was difficult for some people to take
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direction. I was offended by the way I was treated on many occasions but that’s part and parcel of being a black woman when you occupy spaces that you are not meant to. Yemen was a really powerful experience for the people that I worked with because NGO comms is usually what white people do. Black people don’t do NGO crisis comms. I just think they don’t know that it exists; it’s just not something that’s broadcast. There are no books on NGO comms. People don’t know that it’s a profession that they can do. Most of the people are going to be African black people, and they tend to be in a select supply chain - grants, fundraising, that type of stuff, at least, in my experience. Is it hard to remain objective? Traditional journalist teaching is that you remain objective. I don’t believe in objectivity, any more. I believe that as individuals, we have to acknowledge our biases and as long as you acknowledge them and you know what they are, then you can try and write objectively or not, but you have to be very clear with your intentions. The idea that we are objective is ridiculous and this was underscored in my experience in Yemen.
When you’re embedded, your life is in the hands of the people that you’re with; my life was in the hands of our security guy. Anybody that used to give me a hard time or was unfair to me, I just used to talk to him and he would take
care of my issues. You become aligned with the goals of the people that you work with and this isn’t something that’s often spoken about. When you’re embedded, you’re buried in a situation. You don’t just parachute in and leave; you’re in it for the long haul. It changes you. It’s very hard as a journalist. When you work for an organisation that is focused on children and their families and you have access issues, you have distribution blockages, your school that was refurbished that week has been bombed, the kids that you got into school can’t go to school. That means they probably won’t eat for that week. Then kids you saw last week are dead. You can’t use their
material in any promotional material anymore because they’re dead. The families had to move for security reasons or because there’s no food. Whatever it is, it affects you. Then, add to that, you’re being bombed. It’s not like you go to work, then you go to the Green Zone and have a nice dinner and watch a nice show with your friends and maybe drink wine. It’s not like that. The Green Zone is an area that the warring parties and the U.N. and other humanitarian actors in the field agree should not be a target of any military offensive. However, in Yemen, the Saudi Emirati led coalition didn’t respect that to the levels that they should have and they would bomb right on the border.
It was really terrifying. I had three-inch thick iron plates on my window that you close at night then bolt down. There would be shrapnel from other exploded houses, a missile or bomb or whatever, up against my iron window. Sometimes, it might be in the daytime; there would be running gun battles in the street and you have to hit the floor and have to wait for the battle to stop in case a bullet flies in from somewhere. I was always scared but your body learns to cope with stress. So even though you’re scared, you function. Were you ever tempted to leave out of fear? You’re working with people with a salary of maybe $500 a month and are taking care of 20 or 30 family The KOL Social
members because civil service workers haven’t been paid in Yemen, at that stage, for over a year. You see your staff having to raise their families, care for their families, their extended families, financially; they don’t live in a Green Zone and they come to work every day and do their best. They give you the inspiration and motivation to keep going, because at least we have the pseudo protection of the Green Zone. The bombs would drop usually from about 11.00PM for maybe an hour, then they start again at 2:00AM. It’s interrupted sleep or you don’t sleep, you’re not able to regenerate in the same way. So, my sleep would be split into two. I’d go to bed at 9.00PM and I’d be woken up at 11:00PM. I’d work from 11.00PM until 2:00AM and when the bombing raid is done, I’d go back to bed.
to normal. I recognise there was a switch and I was running on adrenaline. There were times when the planes would fly so low; it felt like I could hear the hatch open and then the bomb would drop. At one time they started bombing in the afternoon in one of the first days of Eid, the celebration after Ramadan, to mess up people’s shopping or preparations. I was so annoyed, I was just like, well, if they’re going to bomb me, I’m just going to die.
They would bomb buildings where people lived; they would bomb schools, at hospitals. It’s not by accident. I don’t know how you can bomb a funeral or a wedding and kill a hundred people and say that it is an accident. I don’t know how you can bomb wells and say that’s an accident because once the wells were infected, people got cholera and hundreds died. You have human targets but when you bomb the infrastructure you destroy the education, work, the currency of the country. It’s a war on many fronts.
When the bombing raids starts or when we are going to have security that is going to be really bad then all of the staff members in the house had to go down into the basement, which is a bomb shelter. But it’s not a bomb shelter. It’s a basement. If we were bombed and the house collapsed, we would be stuck there because they don’t even have the infrastructure, or digging equipment to get us out.
Did you ever have a breakdown? Your body functions on a different level, your brain synapses and your brain patterns change. Now, everything has gone back
ADOBESTOCK ©ANAS ALHAJJ
Sometimes they bomb mountains where they said the smuggling routes
were and where weapons were being smuggled. At that time, Yemen was the second most armed country in the world behind the United States.
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We would just be buried under the rubble. That particular day, I reached a limit where I just said, if the bomb drops and I die, my dad’s going to have a chance to get my body back. So, I just didn’t go down, which was completely breaking protocol. I could have gotten into a lot of trouble for that but everyone was just so exhausted. We were just happy that we didn’t get bombed. It was a constant state of fear. I started working out really hard because I decided that if I needed to jump from my window to the tree and scale into the next compound, if our compound became overrun and they decided they wanted to use us as human shields or ransom us for money, whatever it was, I just knew I needed to give myself the best chance to get away. My whole thought process was geared to survival and trying to stay alive, even though it was out of my control.
What was the hardest time? During the air, sea and land blockade in the summer of 2017 which meant that nobody was allowed in or out of Yemen. I was stuck. For three months. It was the hardest time. I was surprisingly calm. I just knew that I wasn’t going to die there. I knew this was not the end of my journey, that we just had to just keep doing what we were doing. What was happening day-to-day during that time? Going to work. Bombs. Going to work. Bombs. We were just being bombed all of the time. It was a relentless bombing campaign. When we were driving between states it was like the movies – bombed out, destroyed buildings. People have to live, work where they can, hustle money, they have to feed their children, their family.
What is most important thing that you learnt from your experience in Yemen? My values or my ethics as a journalist are more important to me than they’ve ever been. Not that I wasn’t ethical, I was always ethical. You don’t have any respect as a journalist, if you’re not ethical. But now, I wouldn’t do anything that I think is unethical. I will not compromise my journalistic values. I am in love with my craft. The amount of respect I have for journalists and people that do the work that we do has never been higher. I feel like it’s a personal calling and we are the defenders of democracies. But for us, we will be run over by tyrants and it’s our job to tell the stories of people that don’t have the ability or the access to tell their stories. It’s our job to be a check and balance on government power. We have – not the Piers Morgans of the world but the honourable – a duty to protect. We are the guardians of our democracies. It’s our job to use our words as a shield to protect the weak among us. So for me, I’d do the most admirable job in the world. Do you sometimes feel you’re fighting a losing battle? No. Maybe I would have said that if I hadn’t gone to Yemen, Central African Republic and Ethiopia. When you’re a desktop journalist and you sit behind a desk and you work from wires and you understand the political nuances, it can make you feel powerless because, you know you’ve got a great story and for whatever reason, your story didn’t make it in that day. But once you’re in the field, and once you understand in real terms the work that needs to be done and what your work has the power to do, I don’t feel that way at all. And what I learnt from the NGO sector is that everything is incremental. Each thing builds another thing and you have a much longer-term vision. The KOL Social
GET T YOU UR FREE MAGA A AZIN NE EACH MO ONTH H The freem mium magazine is published on the first Wednesday of every month, available by hand-tohand disstribution and placed at hotspots acrross London. The locations are listed on the webssite. It is available by mail subscription to our natio onal and interrnational readers. Details can be found at thekolsoccial.com/subscribe
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DIVERSITY GROUPS DIRECTORY
Independent Business Listings
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DIRECTORY VADM Botanics Ltd
BEAUTY KOL Cosmetics: KOL Cosmetics is an independent online makeup brand that offers both mineral powders and luxury 3D silk eyelashes. Made from the finest natural ingredients, choose from 20 shades of powders that are paraben-free and suitable for all lifestyles and religions, including vegan and Halal. The nine styles of naturallooking false eyelash strips are handmade and 100% silk. All products are animal cruelty-free. kolcosmetics.com
Love Your Beauty: Love Your Beauty credits itself as the first conscious beauty brand that focuses on all aspects of a womanâ€™s development. They specialise in products and events designed to focus on self-love. By creating a network and providing support, the company hopes to enable women to achieve their dreams whilst feeling beautiful on the inside and out. loveyourbeauty.uk
LU Skincare LU Skincare products are 100% vegan with carefully sourced ingredients combining essential oils and oat silk. From light day creams to nourishing night creams, they are beautifully scented and provide the best quality skin care for all skin types. Made in England.
VADM Botanics Ltd: Thenatural skincare company manufactures, promotes, and sells cosmetics formulated from special blends of natural sustainably sourced ingredients for the purpose of moisturising, rejuvenating the skin, and protecting against the ageing effects of the environment, weather, UV light, and time. Excellent manufacturing practice is maintained. Safety certificates available upon request. vadm.co.uk
EVENTS ALTERNATIVE Future Parties: A female-run sexpositive events company, Future Parties provides a safe environment for women to come and explore their sexuality freely without judgment. The BDSM, kink and swingers events are held in clubs across London with the occasional house party.
Minority Beauty: An innovative onestop online boutique, Minority Beauty provides a wide range of makeup brands for people of colour enabling customers to find products that are suitable for their skin tone. Established in 2016, the company sources and promotes both independent and well-known brands to provide a variety of products to suit different budgets. The high-quality cosmetics are richly pigmented.
Della George: Della George is a couture designer and tailor who specialises in bridal and eveningwear. Her meticulous, customer-focused service attracts high profile individuals and celebrities. With over 30 yearsâ€™ experience, including royalty, Della understands the importance of a perfect fit, to exact specifications, exhibited down to every last detail.
Njubien: Njubien brings therapy to your fingertips with luxurious nail products that and infused with natural oils. The wide range of unique colours and oils are inspired by the warmth of the Caribbean islands and designed to complement all skin tones. njubien.com
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HAIR ONLINE HUB FroHub: FroHub is a hair and beauty online platform where service, time and quality are taken seriously. Find and book Afro hairstylists and beauticians by browsing through photographs and videos posted by professionals, and filter by location and reviews. Includes Q&As, tutorials and local events.
PRODUCTS Luxju Natural Hair Products: Everyone will love the Luxju organic hair-care range, designed for all curly hair types: wavy, coily, kinky and curly. Formulated with natural ingredients, CGM friendly and free from mineral oils and parabens, the nourishing hair products moisturise, hydrate and condition while controlling dry, frizzy hair. luxjunaturalhairproducts.com
TAD Crown TAD Crown offers satin bedding products, as alternative to wearing a night scarf or bonnet, to protect your hair while you sleep. The smooth material prevents the hair from drying and being brittle due to friction compared with the cotton fabric from standard bedding. Suitable for all ages. tadcrown.com
Navarbe: Navarbe Natural Skincare was founded out of sheer passion and love for great skin care products. Infusing the very best ingredients nature has to offer, the company creates elegant luxury products, handmade to perfection. Includes products for both the face and body.
Taideux: Taideux was founded with a mission to empower and promote bodypositivity among fuller-busted women, UK size DD+ and up. The clothing brand designs for a big bust without sacrificing style. For every item sold, the company donates to the charity Sanitary Aid for Nigerian Girls. taideux.com
SALONS & FREELANCERS First Glance Hair Salon: First Glance unisex hair salon offers a wide range of services and treatments to suit every hair type from Afro, Asian to European. Whether you are after the perfect colour, a bold cut or dramatic hair extensions, the hairdressers offer exceptional service and aftercare advice. Established since 1988 and based in Brockley, London. 1stglance.co.uk
DIRECTORY MEMBERS REVIEW: FIRST GLANCE HAIR SALON VickSenStyles
The Wig Gurus: The Wig Gurus specialises in tints that customise lace wigs and hairpieces to people of colour for an undetectable colour match. The innovative, all-inclusive brand is aimed at hair professionals and all products are made with natural hair ingredients. thewiggurus.com
Three V Hair Salon: Three V hair salon is the leading salon that specialises in monofibre hair extensions. Based in trendy Notting Hill, London, this eclectic salon is favoured by celebrities. They pride themselves with quality service by their team of highly trained experts. New customers can enjoy 15% discount on their first booking.
VickSenStyles: A professional, freelance stylist with 15 years experience, Vicki is also a barber for both men and women. Winner of the coveted title of‘ Colourist of The Year’ at the Black Beauty & Hair Awards (2011) she is based in London’s Peckham Palms. VickSenStyles is offering 20% discount for new clients. instagram: @vicksenstyles
WIGS & EXTENSIONS Luxeriva: Luxeriva offer the highest quality clip-in hair extensions, perfect for adding volume to natural hair with an even distribution to create the best blending solution possible. Premium ponytails and ready-to-wear wigs are also available. The online store offers UK and international delivery. luxeriva.com
Vivo Nutrients: Vivo Nutrients combine cutting-edge technology with detox and lifestyle change to create healing from within. A noninvasive body MOT health scan surveys the body via the hand and produces a detailed report on all organs and body systems. They identify underperforming organs, route issues and help you back to optimal function through bespoke detox, diet and lifestyle change programs. vivonutrients.com
QBAG: QBAG understand the importance of sharing good food and great times with loved ones again and again. This philosophy led them to create their premium range of environmentally friendly cooking bags made out of aluminum foil. They are easy to use in the oven or on the barbecue outside.
LIFESTYLE Lisa Anderson Arts Advisory (LAAA): Provides expert insight and authentic access to exceptional fine art from the African Diaspora, with a focus on UK based artists, through tailored art collection consultancy, exhibition curation and unforgettable immersive experiences. Get in touch to enrich your home, business and life. lisaandersonartadvisory.com
It is not always the salons that shout the loudest that gives the best results. You know the types, based in city central locations, with a go-to celebrity hairstylist, ever ready with an expert quote. Patron to one such establishment, up until a year ago, I was left with a shattered fringe and struggling hairline. The locks tsunami also came with a hefty price tag, reflective of the postcode but not the hair care. Do not get me wrong; I am not knocking all such swanky havens. I have had one on speed dial for over a decade where, when it comes to hair extensions, they are second to none. But that is another salon review. Following the fatal follicle attack, the hunt was on for a stylist who could address regrowth and leave the roots intact. A chance encounter at The KOL Social networking event, last year, led me into the leather chair of First Glance Hair Salon, based in South London. Side-eyeing a neighbouring client, trying to determine whether or not her thick tresses were all hers (it was), I tugged at the tuffs of my former bangs. The salon owners, and siblings, Roan and Joy Bradshaw, stood one on either side of me, surveying the damage whilst schooling me on how I can get that same mane of hair. Most of their advice I took on board but the diva in me stubbornly refused to give up on extensions, which they thought might cause further breakage. Nevertheless, from that first appointment, my hair began to grow, and at a miraculous rate. Every eight weeks, I underwent a keratin treatment followed by colouring, interspersed with their infamous secret formula conditioning treatment. The barnet has never been so long and healthy, at least not since my days of the Michael Jackson wet perm. Will the rapid speed of growth wean me away from my love of dolly hair? Maybe, but it is likely to be by default rather than by design. At this rate, my hair may literally grow out of it. First Glance Hair Salon offers a full range of services for all hair types at reasonable prices. Costs: Keratin treatment £130, and hair colouring £35, Vegan treatments are also available. Address: 334 Brockley Road, SE4 2BT London - 1stglance.co.uk By Marcia Degia, Publishing Editor Note: The review is unbiased and was not sponsored.
To a dverti se i n t he D ive rsi ty Group s D i re c to r y vis it th e ko ls o cial.com /adve r tis e
The Elite Auto Services: A family-run business committed to providing customers with unparalleled quality service at competitive prices. No matter the season, The Elite Auto Services covers all of your automotive needs covered. Experienced and knowledgeable staff strives to provide honest and reliable service. Services include MOT, diagnostic, emergency and repair.
HireMyMa: HireMyMa is a progressive recruitment website and app that specialises in helping and supporting parents find flexible employment to complement their family life. It also offers companies a platform to promote their brand to a range of highly skilled, experienced candidates.
WEBSITE DESIGN & SOCIAL MEDIA
PHOTOGRAPHY Whiteroom Studios: A stunning, brand new, minimalistic, contemporary and stylish photographic studio space, Whiteroom Studios also offers a professional service provided by a team of qualified photographers and experienced retouchers. Willing to take on any size job, whether it be small or large, they thrive on capturing their clients’ branding and ideas by breaking the rules and thinking outside the box. wstudios.co.uk
RESTAURANTS All Nations Vegan House: For over ten years, Chef Atreka has been preparing healthy vegan dishes with a Caribbean twist. Using West Indian staples, herbs and spices, the restaurant provides a menu that is frequently changed and includes daily specials. Based in Hackney, it is open Monday to Sunday, check online for opening times. A take-away service is available. Instagram: @allnationsveganhouse
Burntcork Media: A London based team of talented, experienced and professional web designers who create affordable, stunning, effective and results-driven bespoke websites and eCommerce sites. With over 10 years’ experience, BurntCork Media offer various creative digital services helping brands to connect with their audience online and on social media. New website customers can enjoy 15% discount on their first project. burntcorkmedia.com
VIDEO PRODUCTION Amoveo: A London-based collective that produces compelling content through visual design, motion graphics and social video, Amoveo helps individuals, brands and companies get noticed. With over five years’ experience, the company works within various industries including retail, fashion, publishing, arts, confectionary, media, charity and corporate sectors. amoveo.tv
D I V E R S I T Y G RO U PS D I R E C TO RY Members who have appeared in this issue. For more information about each company, go to their listing in this directory to find their website. AMOVEO | BURNTCORK MEDIA | FIRST GLANCE HAIR SALON| KOL COSMETICS | LISA ANDERSON ARTS ADVISORY | LU SKINCARE | THREE V HAIR SALON | WHITEROOM STUDIOS
A D VE RT I SE I N TH E D IV ERS IT Y G ROU PS D I R EC TO RY B E PART O F T H E MOV E M E N T ENTREPRENEURS
The KOL Social publishes The Diversity Groups Directory in each issue. Do you have a hair or beauty brand, an accountancy firm, or run a non-profit? Do you have a small business providing a good service and want to reach a wider audience? Whatever industry you work in, sign up now and get involved. Visit the kols oc i al.co m /adve r ti s e or e m a i l : a dve rt i se @ t h e ko l so c i a l .com
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The unfamiliarity of Togo as a tourist destination and Donnellyâ€™s ever-changing food menu will satisfy the adventurous
LomĂŠ seaside The KOL Social
BY DIETMAR TEMPS
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TOGO BY S HE RIL L E R AYMO ND
fficially the Togolese Republic, Togo is one of the smallest countries in Africa, bordered by Ghana to the west, Benin to the east and Burkina Faso to the north. During the slave trade by Europeans, from the 16th to 18th century, the coastal region was part of a major trading centre, earning the country and the surrounding region the name “The Slave Coast”.
Crossing the border from Ghana in the dark of night is not the best way to enter Togo. The main border at Aflao is no more than a tiny dirt road with a thick rope demarcating the line between the two countries. For the non-French speaker a guide is highly recommended to take you through the process. Once through, the sights and sounds delight as one travels through the capital city of Lomé: the streets humming with motorbikes, children playing football and the constant roar of the surf from the Atlantic Ocean. In the centre lies the cosmopolitan Hotel Onomo filled with chicly attired millennials and families.
Voodoo ceremonial mask dance, Egungun
The action continues in the morning with the bustling Grand Marché marketplace where you will be surprised at the orderliness of the hectic pace of the vibrant and beautiful example of a true African market experience. Vastly different from the chaos of Kumasi’s miles-long market, the vendors hawk unique fabrics, mounds of salt, dried fish, butchered meats and baguettes. The KOL Social
Above: Voodoo Dolls, Akodessawa Fetish Market, Lomé
The food in Togo is highly dependent upon the establishment. With its strong French influence, pastries, salads and complex dishes are present on some of the finer hotel menus, but it is not easy for the unadventurous or weary traveller to find great restaurants. You may want to take advantage of Lome’s supermarket that is very well stocked with various cheeses, meats and snacks.
Voodoo Village of Ewe aka Gen people, Anfoin
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A short drive from the Grand Marché is Akodessewa, the largest Fetish market in Western Africa. A place where Voodoo practitioners can find absolutely anything they need for their rituals, it is a jumble of bones from every animal imaginable, dolls and herbs. The majority of the vendors and priests originate from from neighbouring Benin where the practice is the main religion. Every January, thousands of followers travel along the Slave Road in
Akodessewa Fetish Market
Ouidah, Benin to the beach where they worship and pay homage to the millions of slaves who traversed the very same road.
Journeying east from Lome takes you to Aneho, previously the colonial capital of Togo until 1920. A quick turn off the road before you hit the town, into Agbodrafo, is undoubtedly one of the most impactful, yet least known, historical sites – the Maison d’Esclaves or Slave House.
The final must-see will take you into Aneho where you can hop on a pirogue to Togoville on the northeastern side of Lake Togo. Historically known as the country’s centre of voodoo, it is where many of its practitioners were taken as slaves to Haiti. Ironically, there co-exists a grand Catholic
Church with an official Pope John Paul II verified shrine that commemorates the appearance of the Virgin Mary and baby Jesus on Lake Togo in the late 1970s. Thousands of worshipers now perform a pilgrimage each year, singing and clapping as they peacefully glide across the lake, all day. The every day life of Togoville’s residents is quite fascinating, in a town which has very little grass and
a film of red dust everywhere. The villagers function through a barter system in a predominately nonelectric environment. Tree trunks are wrapped in black, red and white cloths for daily Vodoun rites; shrines, altars and icons abound. The true experience of Togo is lost without a guide and well worth the expense. Despite its diminutive size, Togo holds as much history and culture as its larger neighbouring countries.
Also known as the Wood House, this now unassuming rundown building was built in in 1835 by Scottish slave trader John Henry Wood. A small courtyard provides entrance to what appears to be a humble three-roomed house with a porch desperately in need of repair. Visitors soon discover that the openings in the porch are exits from the underground holding area. Slaves would be forced to spend up to three months lying in the dirt of the two metre high cellar while the lives of their captors went on right above them. Now designated as a UNESCO site, it brings the horror of slavery to an even more intimate level than the better known Ghana’s Elmina and Cape Coast Castles.
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Fisher’s harbor, Lomé
Caves Grottes de Nok
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FUNKY OL’ MEDINA
Le Jardin Majorelle
Marrakech, North Africa’s newest art hub BY L ISA A N DER S ON
One of the most treasured additions to this landscape, that lovingly fuses the old and the new, is Riad Yirma, owned by internationally renowned artist and photographer, Hassan Hassaj. Proudly cited as Morocco’s answer to Andy Warhol, native-born Hassaj spends his time between Morocco, London and New York but can often be found in the makeshift muesuem. In 2013, he converted his family home into a unique artistic vision. Part riad, boutique teahouse and gallery; visitors can enjoy a rest from the hubbub of the surrounding medina whilst taking in the artwork adorning the walls and levels of the building.
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over 40 years. It was designed to promote contemporary African art to an increasingly engaged audience through a programme of exhibitions and educational programming that celebrates both established and emerging talent from the continent and showcasing over 2000 pieces from his permanent collection. Alongside this art centre, there are a number of other galleries, giving shape to the art scene including the likes of the Voice Gallery. Also 6.4 Gallery and gallery 127 a place for African photography.
One of the must-see art destinations is the relatively new Museum of Contemporary Art Al Maadan. Founded by the multi-millionaire Moroccan businessman and art lover, Alami Lazraq, it showcases contemporary and modern works from the African Diaspora that he has collected for
This is not an overnight story: Marrakech has a rich history in travelling artists being seduced by its otherworldly charms. Yet the last decade has witnessed the emergence of a collection of art galleries, museums and events that have captured the attention of the global market.
Hassan also champions the work of fellow Moroccan artists, particularly emerging photographers, who help to test the boundaries of conventional aesthetics. He has brought together works for a show at Comptoir des Mines Galerie, another highlight on the city’s art trail, which positions itself as a contemporary art centre.
arrakech has long been a go to travel destination for the aesthetically astute, culture-oriented sun seeker, with a penchant for ancient mystique. However, amidst its dusky, narrow alleyways, thick with the murmur of centuries-old trade in Berber jewels and rugs, lies an equally seductive and vital slice of culture. A thriving contemporary art community has taken hold of the city, attracting enthusiasts from across the world.
Undoubtedly, one of the most significant events of the art calendar is the international art fair 1-54 Marrakech, celebrating the best in contemporary African Art. Founded by Moroccan born Touria El Glaoui, the fair opened its first edition in London in 2013 and made its first appearance five years later. Over 20 galleries from 10 different countries exhibit at La Mamounia, an idyllic luxury hotel that sits just outside old-world medina. No visit to Marrakech would be complete without a visit to the iconic Yves Saint Laurent Gardens, Le Jardin Majorelle. Named after the French painter Jacques Majorelle, who conceived of the garden “as a sanctuary and botanical laboratory”. Famed for its meticulously manicured landscapes and blue walls, it functions as a glorious combination of both art and design.
Donnelly’s Restaurant Red hot restaurant in industry-cool district BY RU D O MASHON GAM H ENDE
outhwark is easily thought of as simply the home of The Shard, but for those in the know, head down the correct street and you will find Donnelley’s perched unassumingly on the corner, operating out of Bermondsey Bar and Kitchen. The décor reflects the sustainable ethos with minimal wooden tables and chairs, exposed brick, and fairy lights on the ceiling which add a soft, welcoming touch.
“rescued veg”, produce that is deemed too ugly to be sold in a supermarket. The starter of deep fried ham croquettes is accompanied by a unique, sweet blend of crunchy almonds and sherry vinaigrette to get the taste buds salivating. The vegetarian option of potato, lemon and tarragon croquettes are delightfully fluffy with a light batter and complimented by a delicately spiced tomato sauce.
All dishes are organic, seasonal and sourced locally, which has always been the passion of the brand simply because it makes ethical sense. The back of the menu pays homage to all of the restaurant’s suppliers so it is easy to track exactly where your food has come from. The waiters speak proudly of using, what they term as
The list of mains is laden with both meat and fish dishes with courses changed weekly, and sometimes daily, depending on supplier stock. Fish lovers might wish to try the panfried Cornish sea bream fillet with its perfectly crispy skin canopying tender, flaky flesh. It rests upon the softest potato puree imaginable.
Lemon butter is the final gastronomic touch. Meat eaters should consider the flavourful Galloway aged steak with tartare blue cheese butter drizzled throughout. The side dish of cavolo nero, think of black kale or cabbage, is strewn with succulent confit garlic and can easily be main dish of its own. The drinks menu was certainly not overlooked. A full bodied Malbec was one of the many full-bodied wines on offer as an excellent partner to the steak dishes, and a rounded white wine, such as Sarotto, with fish. If wine is not your go to, then there are beers and cider on tap, a selection of spirits and liqueurs, and classic cocktails like a Bramble, Mixed Berry Mojito and a local twist that is aptly named a Bermondsey Iced Tea.
40 Bermondsey Street, London, SE1 3UD – donnellysrestaurant.co.uk Pricing: ££ The KOL Social
THE WORLDS FIRST DOCUMENTARY ON THE PHENOMENON THAT IS UK SNEAKER CULTURE
SOCIALIZE MEDIA PRESENTS “SOLESEEKERS” THE FILM DIRECTED AND PRODUCED BY EMIL SOCIALIZE COLLINS, VOICED BY ORTIS DELEY EXEC PRODUCED BY ZENA TUITT, TROY PRYOR ASSOC PROD: PAOLA LUCKTUNG EATURING MUSIC BY TY, J2K, JAMES YARDE, STICKY,MISTA DAZ AND MORE 2$0,#0)#* .! 1/%+1++(+31&-%"'4/"
The opportunity to reinvent your signature look has arrived as we head into the new season. The KOL Social
BY RUD O M AS H ON GAMH END E
WALK THIS WAY
The puffa jacket adds immediate trendiness to a casual look, or for something a touch more formal, incorporate a double breasted piece like a jumpsuit or outerwear to your outffit.
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For mo re st re et styl e f a sh i o n vi si t: th e ko l so c i a l .com /f a shio n
THE BOLD AND THE BEAUTIFUL
Bathe yourself in large doses of colour, with either tangerine orange in which your confidence will not be questioned, or white that will test your excelllent table manners.
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Win Free Gifts
To enter, apply online before 5 April, visit thekolsocial.com/competitions-offers Literary Elegance To celebrate our partnership with BFI and African Odyssey’s preview screening of the documentary Toni Morrison: The Pieces I Am on 8th March (see page 15), we have teamed up with VINTAGE Books to give away three copies of the author’s final book: Mouth Full Of Blood (£9.99). The non-fiction collection, spans four decades with essays, speeches and meditations.
Get It Twisted You have read the interview with author Sara Collins on page 17, now get your hands on her novel The Confessions of Frannie Langton, (Penguin). The dark and twisted tale is about a former slave from Jamaica, now in London, who is accused of murdering her master and mistress. We have three copies. worth £8.99 to giveaway.
Ecological Roots So Eco’s biodegradable combs suit all hair types and problems. A detangling comb (£5) for damp fragile hair, a tail comb (£4) with anti-static properties that makes it perfect for styling, backcombing and sectioning and a cutting comb (£4) which prevents snagging or dragging. Take your pick. More information: soinvogue.com
Supplement magnesium through your skin with Magnesium Flakes, £9.95 (1Kg). Responsible for over 300 different actions in the body, it is a vital nutrient that acts as a natural aid to muscle recovery and relaxation. Win one of for five bags. More information: betteryou.com
Inn ner Curl Gett heat-free, long lasting, no damage curls with Curlformers styling kits complete with insttruction guide plus two styling hooks. These worrk on all hair types and length from tight curlls to loose brushed out waves. We have one of three curl type kitss to give away: corkscrew, barrel and spiral. Worth £23.95 – £26.95 per kit. More information: hairflair.com
Ayurveda Spirit nspired by traditional In Indian tonic, Herb & Fruit Tonic, £29.99 (month supply), is a daily wellness supplement made from a unique blend of 14 herbs and fruits sustainably sourced from the world’s rainforests and blended using spring water. Vegan friendly and gluten free, we have five to give away. More information: ojamin.com
To e nte r a ll gi ve aw a y s , ap p l y o n l i n e b efo re 5 A pr i l . V is it th ek ol so c i al . co m/ c om p et it io ns - of fer s 74
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9 STYLES L U X U RY SI L K E YELA SHES
Dramatic, glamorous or the natural Look, KOL Cosmetics has something for everyone. Choose from nine styles of natural-looking false eyelash strips that are handmade and 100% silk.
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March 2020: The Identity Issue. First Word: Rethinking English Heritage. Subscribe To The Diversity Groups Directory. Fashion. Beauty. Cultu...
Published on Mar 5, 2020
March 2020: The Identity Issue. First Word: Rethinking English Heritage. Subscribe To The Diversity Groups Directory. Fashion. Beauty. Cultu...