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Gareth Pugh


spring summer 2018 Interviews with

Lucas David Fecal Matter Charles Jeffrey Chelsea Wolfe


05 06 07 12

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G A R E T H P U G H S T U D I O . C O M

G A R E T H P U G H S T U D I O . C O M

e d i to r ’ s

n ot e

Dogma means the doctrine of belief in a religion or a political system. The literal meaning of dogma in ancient Greek was something that seems true. These days, in English, dogma is more absolute. I was always attracted to the strange and unusual and was myself strange and unusual. gROWING UP I decided to use my own body as my outlet of my artistic visions, doing things like playing with fashion, gender, makeup, and hair.

I recieved my Bachelors in Fashion marketing in Philadelphia in 2018 which helped me progress myself as an artist, a business professional, and a transgender woman. I learned that fashion isn't about sales or looking pretty, it's a true medium of art. Fashion is love and hate, fashion is protest, fashion is a Monet or Dali, fashion is real life.

dogma is fashion in art, fashion in every day life. DOGMA will represent everything that inspired me and continues to inspire me and people alike. This magazine is for everyone who appreciates what we have and learns to love what we have, whether that be edgy and avant garde, or simplistic and bold. DOGMA will inspire and create to show the world that fashion is so much more than clothes, and to hopefully help anyone lost on this crazy journey of life.

Yours truly, Taylor D’Amico


When you work on a new collection, do you ever, at any point, even think of making clothes that could be generated for mass consumption? We always do! When you see our rail in Paris and then actually see the clothes as separates, you can see them as having a completely different life a lot of the time. Whether it’s with a beautifully cut jacket or a cropped arran knit, it’s all about how it’s styled or

Charles, do you think invention in fashion is even still possible, or at this time it is more about changing the fashion landscape? I think if you strive to be inventive in fashion you will find a way to do so. Changing the fashion landscape is much harder as it requires the reaction from everyone else to lend to your vision. I feel it all depends on how your vision naturally manifests itself in the industry.

Your AW 18 was entitled “Tantrum”, The models did carry a sense of rage, but they all appeared rather vulnerable and damaged. Was it hard to work on a collection so personal? It was really difficult! You are pushed to express yourself every six months, and my life has changed so much in that time, so I guess this collection had to explain that. When I saw the finale on the big screen and heard the music, I felt really overwhelmed with emotion, and even now I still feel like I am reflecting on that. Doing something as big as a fashion show it’s hard not to feel a lot of emotion throughout. For the future, I’m gonna take up meditation!

You also work with sculpture, video, etc. Trojan once described his art as “fights and fucks in nightclubs”, How would you describe yours? I see anything creative I do coming from a small goddess that lives inside me. Basically I’m just translating whatever she wants to see in the world via my words/actions/hand.


Dilara Findikoglu’s SS18 London

Fashion Week show was a twisted punk romance of religious motifs and yards of silk. Hosted in London‘s Saint Andrews church, a parade of diverse models from tattooist Grace Neutral to Instagram star Jazelle a.k.a @UglyWorldWide wore gothic dresses in blood red, cream and black.As the audience eagerly waited, all hushed as if waiting for a sermon, a large cardboard set design sat at the front by the alter. Orange, hot pink and red were the fiery colours of choice, and dog tooth fabrics lay by the side.

High-collared dresses with puffed

sleeves came out one by one. Sparkling embellishments garnished the full skirts; appliquéd illustrations that mirrored the set design adorned the sleeves and backs of jackets. Meanwhile, contrasting ribbons hung down from the shoulders and cuff, adding drama to the movement.


PARIS fashion week

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Casual Couture Clare Waight Keller for Givenchy Spring Summer 2018 collection brings casual sports wear into the Parisian fashion house in her debut collection

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Rick Owens Spring Summer 2018 haunts the runway with it's dark and shapley designs

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Lucas David’s Portraits Walk The Fine Line Between Beauty and Wickedness

Can you tell us a bit about the process of making one of your artworks? There’s not really a process, it’s very unexpected. I use mixed media for the same reason — I enjoy the spontaneity in art — it’s more fun.

And I know you have a solid following, have you gotten used to it? Not really, I don’t feel like they’re ‘fans,’ but just followers that watch you grow. Because that’s just the era that we live in, people can see anything they want with social media and Instagram, like I could never imagine being able to have an art show if it was not because of the internet. That would be so difficult.

So many people have very specific ideas about what art is, but it’s all so subjective. To one person something could be a beautiful piece of art, but to another person it could be just utter trash. So who’s to say what “real art” is? Yeah! And the weird thing is that at that school I was rejected, but there’s a teacher who works there that uses me as an example. He talks about me and my art, and shows it to inspire the students. He contacted me on Facebook saying that he included me, and that he didn’t know I was rejected from there. It’s funny.

There is something weirdly beautiful about the dark deterioration of these celebrity subjects. Do you think that’s a projection of your own darkness onto them, or do you see this other darker, demented layer to them that you wanted to materialize in your artwork? Yeah, yeah. When I was in Mexico the first person who believed in me and my work was this older guy I used to work with, Alejandro, and he’s an art dealer who’s spent his whole life collecting and selling and appreciating art. He was working with Dolores Olmedo, and she used to work with Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera. Someone introduced me to him and he became obsessed. He didn’t know who the celebrities were, but he was fascinated, so we started working together. I’ve grown from him and he’s taught me a lot. But he told me that my art was expressionist, and that he sees them as self portraits. That whenever there’s a girl with her eyes (prominently shown), it’s actually me. He goes, “That’s Lucas David, that’s not anything else.” Because everything I do, I feel.

Is there any kind of advice that you’d give to someone who wants to be an artist? Don’t dream it, just do it. Just be it. Work for it, go for it, dream bigger. Don’t think about the things that are going to get you down or not help you. Try it, there’s nothing left to lose when you want something. Like for example, when I was rejected from art school I could have stopped and done something else, but I didn’t. But they were wrong. They were so fucking wrong. There were people that liked me, that liked what I do. It’s something that I’ll never forget, it’s something that will inspire me always. People can be wrong, and you can be fucking right.



"This is not a show. Nick Knight and Gareth Pugh offer an exclusive visual insight into Pugh’s sping summer 2018 collection presented here as a fashion film. In collaboration with philosophical artist Olivier de Sagazan, Pugh explores the extremities offered by the elements and the raw physicality of humanity" - SHOWstudio G A R ETHP U GHSTUDI O.COM




PARISIAN ARTIST COLLECTIVE FECAL MATTER SHOWS HOW BRUTAL HONESTY IS FASHIONABLE Fecal Matter, a Paris based collective that doesn’t restrict itself to just one discipline. Music, fashion, film, photography, you name it they do it. The two founding members have come a long way since starting the collective, inspired by The Matrix by the Wachowski Sisters, it now knows a long list of collaborators with no end in sight. We got a look at their latest capsule collection and got to know the two geniuses behind Fecal Matter a little more.

Can you introduce yourselves and tell us a bit about Fecal Matter?

We are a collective of two official members and many collaborators. We’ve constructed a world called Fecal Matter that acts as a multi-functional experience based brand. We create capsule collections whenever we want, sometimes it’s twice a month. Many have deliberate thematics, some do not. We use recycled and non-recycled materials to construct the garments. Usually, each clothing collection is based around a thematic where we create music, film, photography and live shows around it to expand it’s existence. The collection above is an example, it’s called Abondonner, which is French for “to abandon”. It is about the destruction of the white ideal beauty of the ultimate masculine and feminine figures of our time, Adam and Eve.

Some of the imagery on your website could be found to be shocking, is this something you try to achieve or is there a different motivation? You mean the video of the woman giving birth? We like things to be uncensored and we’re just very extreme as you can tell. Currently, the whole collection on our website is about hell. Giving birth looks and probably feels like hell, yet it is the key point to our survival as a human race. Honestly, for us, what we do is not shocking at all. Our motivation is always to be as honest and truthful about how we feel and what we think. I guess in a world where everything is sugar coated to seem desirable or appealing, honesty has probably become the most shocking thing to present.

You have quite a unique aesthetic, where does this come from and how has this developed over the years? We draw inspiration from everything around us and everything within us. We love to travel, so naturally, we are exposed to many different environments, which alters our vision of beauty. Also, the internet and technology plays a big part in our creative process. Our aesthetic comes from our love of fantasy, a crucial part of human survival. The Matrix by The Wachowski Sisters played a big influence in our development. during our earlier stages.


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What inspired you to get into playing music? I saw that your father was a country musician. Still is. That had a lot to do with it, yea seeing him practice, play shows and record. But I was writing poetry from a young age and had journals full of poems that I eventually had a desire to set to music. My dad taught me the basics of songwriting and recording when I was around 9 and I took it from there and never really stopped, even though I didn’t share it with the world until much later.

You have said that the world has been in dire straits dating all the back from the beginning. What do you feel needs to happen in order for the world to become what it should be? It will probably always be this way, until the end, unless the singularity occurs, and maybe humanity starts over on a different planet. I’m sure that’s the way evolution will go for us. When you look around the world, it’s easy to see how little compassion there is. We are broken, glitched.

The past few albums have showcased a slow march towards being engulfed with heavy distortion and metallic components. Listening to Hiss Spun, it sounds you finally jumped in all the way. What is it that propelled you to go explore this new terrain? My way of translating it is intuitive. I mean the song “Scrape” literally sprung from a sample of a tractor claw scraping against a concrete floor at a factory my friend Travis was working at. It had a rhythmic element to it that the song was built around. On “16 Psyche” I wanted the guitar tone to sound like a motorcycle engine. The lineup of this record was very key to the sound as well. A couple years ago, I reunited with my old friend Jess Gowrie, who is a truly great rock drummer. We had a band together in the past in Sacramento which I actually left to pursue my own project, and we didn’t talk for 7 years. It was a difficult decision at the time but I knew I had to follow my vision. When we started hanging out again it was easy to remember how much chemistry we had together not only as friends but with writing music. So I started a side project with Ben called Das Welt just to write songs with Jess on drums, and asked Troy Van Leeuwen to play guitar on it as well. After a few songs came together, I knew deep down that it should be the next Chelsea Wolfe record, and everyone agreed. I was falling in love with the songs (Spun, Scrape, Vex) and didn’t want to not be able to play them live. So then I had yet another difficult decision to switch up the lineup, but playing with Jess, who is my OG and really helped me become the front-person I am today, was really important to me.