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S! N IO T EC L E

Formerly JAK ARTA EXPAT and BALI EXPAT

ISSUE NO. 114 |

26 MARCH – 8 APRIL 2014

JAKARTA • JAVA • BALI • LOMBOK • KALIMANTAN • SUMATRA • SULAWESI • WEST PAPUA

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BUTET MANURUNG'S JUNGLE SCHOOL KETUT LIYER: EAT, PRAY, SMILE

PASSIONATE PHOTOGRAPHY DAVID METCALF AKA 'DAYAK DAVE' CYCLING SIX CONTINENTS FOR CHARITY WITH DR. STEVE FABES TRAVEL: PULAU KOTOK

INDONESIAN GENERAL AND PRESIDENTIAL ELECTIONS 2014

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Bali • Rare Maps, Antiques & Art Jl. Dewi Sartika 1BB, Tuban, Bali 80361 - Indonesia Phone: (+62)361 935 1250 E-mail: info@bartelegallery.com Open Daily: 10am - 6pm


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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

Indonesia's Largest Expatriate Readership

Relighting the fire for Indonesian Politics

Editor in Chief Angela Richardson angela@indonesiaexpat.biz

Editorial Assistant Gabriella Panjaitan gaby@indonesiaexpat.biz

Management Edo Frese edo@indonesiaexpat.biz

Sales & Distribution Dian Mardianingsih Betty de Haan ads@indonesiaexpat.biz

Graphics Frederick Ng fred@indonesiaexpat.biz

Finance & Admin Lini Verawaty Andre Fajar

Contributors Marilyn Ardipradja Jasper Bouman Polly Christensen Denise Hession Martin Jenkins Tess Joyce Anu Sarah Mohan Hush Petersen Eamonn Sadler Pangeran Siahaan Grace Susetyo Kenneth Yeung

Editorial Enquiries letters@indonesiaexpat.biz

Circulation Enquiries info@indonesiaexpat.biz

THERE’S BEEN A FEELING OF APPREHENSION in the world of Indonesian politics over the last few months, with the question on everybody’s lips, “Will Jokowi run for president?” The recent announcement of Jakarta Governor Joko Widodo’s (aka Jokowi) presidential candidacy mandate by Indonesian Democratic Party of Struggle (PDI-P) chairwoman Megawati Soekarnoputri was long awaited, and many breathed a sigh of relief when the news was announced on March 14.

Before this news was released, I had asked several Indonesians who they would vote for in the upcoming elections, and the answer from most was “Golput” or Golongan Putih, meaning they would be abstaining from voting as a sign of protest. Once the news of Jokowi’s candidacy was released, the same people changed their minds, stating they would vote for Jokowi for president, with enthusiasm and pride, as they felt they had someone to believe in again. Jokowi could be coined ‘the people’s man’, as he symbolizes hope for Indonesian politics, reigning in a new era of change with his strict anti-corruption measures, integrity, persistence and clean slate. Pre-election polls indicate that Jokowi would win if paired with any vice presidential candidate, and analysts say that getting the nomination from PDI-P was his biggest hurdle, indicating a sure win. Concerns have been expressed about the wellbeing of Jakarta,

now that Jokowi will be busy campaigning for presidency, however, Jakarta Deputy Governor Basuki Tjahaja Purnama, aka Ahok, will be filling the role of Jakarta’s Governor in Jokowi’s absence, and by law Ahok will automatically become governor if Jokowi is elected president. Ahok has already proposed a suitable deputy governor, Rieke Dyah Pitaloka, with whom he has shared a campaign team on Bangka-Belitung, and the pair have worked together in the House since. Although there is still much to do in Jakarta, Jokowi’s two-year term has at least paved the way for improvements, which Ahok will need to continue to work hard on should Jokowi become president. When hearing that PDI-P could have a chance at parliament again, I’m taken back to the early 1990s when I was seven years old in Bandung, dressed in a red t-shirt and a red bandana, with red flags adorning the side-view mirrors of our car. My mum took me on a

PDI (Partai Demokrasi Indonesia) rally and I remember it being exhilarating. I stood up on the back seat and hung out of the window, gesturing the PDI bull sign and shouting “PDI!” to thousands of red-dressed supporters on motorbikes, who enthusiastically shouted back at me in show of their support. I didn’t know what I was shouting about; I was only told that I was standing up for democracy, but to be part of something that felt so alive and be amongst people who had so much hope, it has remained one of my most poignant memories. All those years ago as a naïve kid, I felt a fire within, and today, upon hearing the news that Jokowi could become our seventh president, the long burnt-out flame for politics has been relit.

Angela Richardson Editor in Chief

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LETTER TO THE EDITOR

PT. Koleksi Klasik Indonesia Jl. Kemang Raya No. 29A Kemang, Jakarta,Indonesia Phone: 021 7179 4550 Fax: 021 7179 4546 Office hours: 09.00 – 17.00 Monday – Friday INDONESIA EXPAT IS PUBLISHED BI-WEEKLY BY PT. KOLEKSI KLASIK INDONESIA. OPINIONS EXPRESSED IN THIS PUBLICATION ARE THOSE OF THE WRITERS AND THE PUBLISHER DOES NOT ACCEPT ANY RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY ERRORS, OMMISIONS, OR COMPLAINTS ARISING THERE FROM. NO PARTS OF THIS PUBLICATION CAN BE REPRODUCED IN WHOLE OR IN PART, IN PRINT OR ELECTRONICALLY WITHOUT PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHER. ALL TRADEMARKS, LOGOS, BRANDS AND DESIGNS ARE COPYRIGHT AND FULLY RESERVED BY PT. KOLEKSI KLASIK INDONESIA.

DEAR EDITOR, Thanks for your work in providing helpful information for expats like myself in Bandung. I thoroughly enjoy reading Indonesia Expat, usually at my office or at my favourite coffee shop in town. As far as obsession goes, I

think a lot of people in Indonesia share a similar one with me; coffee. Then I arrive at the thought that I’d be very happy to read more about coffee in my reading materials. You should give some thought into dedicating an article or an edition to coffee (of course, you can’t forget tea).

I like your previous ‘smoking’ issue; maybe you can publish an issue in the future on another vice/addiction — the ‘coffee’ issue.

Sincerely, Crystal "Coffee Addict"

Connect with Us The Cover "Jokowi for Presiden" Pictured by Eduardo Mariz

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Issue 114

Contents

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Featured 2014 Indonesian Presidential Candidates

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Meet the Jakarta Expat Thomas Mayrhofer

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Meet the Bali Expat David Metcalf aka 'Dayak Dave'

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Travel Pulau Kotok In Conversation with Nature

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Food and Drink Al Nafoura The Convivial Lebanese Dining Room

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Faces of Indonesia Trisno: The Mobile Coffee Seller

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Native Cultures Mama Aleta, Guardian of Timor's Sacred Towers: Solid as Rock

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Humorous Observations A Satirical Guide to Indonesian Politicians

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Business Snippet Indonesia's 2014 Elections: What to Expect for Business

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Property Watch Jakarta's Rental Property Market

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Sports BuGils FC Soccer Sixes

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Scams in the City Stealing Democracy from the People

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Conservation The Jungle School

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Light Entertainment Honesty is the Best Policy

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Announcements

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Around the World Soul Searching Across Six Continents on a Bicycle

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Events

Culture Eat, Pray, Smile

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Observations Adapt — The Content Expat

Business Profile Adrian Li: Co-founder of Qraved.com

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Classifieds Business Directory

I CAN’T BELIEVE YOU DON’T HAVE LIFE INSURANCE! FOR MORE INFORMATION AND QUOTATIONS PLEASE E-MAIL INFO@GMS-FINANCIAL.COM OR CALL (021) 520 3574

PT ARIPA MAKMUR PERSADA Graha Aktiva (American Express Building) 4 th Floor, Suite 405, Jl. H. R. Rasuna Said, Kuningan, Jakarta 12950 - Indonesia

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FEATURED

By Pangeran Siahaan

©Todayonline

As a country with a fledgling democracy, this year is an exciting year for Indonesia because we’re going to hold the general election only for the fourth time after reformation in 1998. Eligible voters will go to the voting booth on April 9 to elect members of the House of Representatives (DPR), as well as Regional House of Representatives (DPRD), and Regional Representative Council (DPD), and the elected members will have a seat in the house for the next five years. It is often mistaken, but Indonesians will not elect a new president at the legislative election because the presidential election will be held separately after the legislative one is concluded with the date yet to be determined. The results of the legislative election will bear a huge significance on the presidential election because a rule of presidential threshold is enforced. According to the 2008 election law, only political parties or coalitions gaining 25 percent of popular votes or controlling 20 percent of seats in the DPR will be eligible to nominate a presidential candidate. However, while we’re waiting for the legislative election results to come out, some presidential candidates have made announcements about their nominations. Technically speaking, nobody is a formal candidate yet, but here are the names that are believed to stand a chance to be the next president of Indonesia.

Joko Widodo Jokowi is a political phenomenon not too dissimilar with ‘Obamamania’ in the US. Ever since he came to prominence as mayor of Solo, he captured people’s attention with his humble, down-to-earth personality. His triumph at the DKI gubernatorial election in 2012 was widely predicted in spite of running against the incumbent and being paired with Basuki Tjahaja Purnama (Ahok) from a minority background. Backed by the Indonesian Democratic Party of Struggle (PDI-P) that is predicted by analysts to finish first in the legislative election, the populist Jokowi has the whole country raving about his candidacy since it was announced on March 14. Yunarto Wijaya, political analyst from Charta Politica, thinks the main key behind Jokowi’s popularity is generating political trust from the people. “He uses a bottom-up approach. He listens first to what the people need before he acts. This political trust has been missing all these years from our leaders. This trust is built upon populist, low-context communication style. Jokowi makes it look like there’s no distance between the people and him,” says Yunarto. Jokowi’s modest character is also enriched with his attention to small things, something that is emphasized by Yoes Kenawas, an adjunct lecturer of Parahyangan Catholic University: “He’s unique, he’s known for being somebody 6

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who has meticulous attention to detail. I think if he’s elected, he will keep monitoring the development of projects.” Jokowi is also known for his blusukan routine, a series of impromptu visits to public places and government institutions that also enhanced his popularity. Iman Sjafei, a political campaign specialist, suggests that Jokowi’s approach actually differs from his party’s trait: “Jokowi’s humble character is actually not on the same track with characters of PDI-P that tend to be spirited and hard. But I think what Jokowi offers the people is far more appealing to the people than what his party does.” But Jokowi’s candidacy also garnered criticism, mainly because, in order to run for presidency, he has to leave the governor seat that he’s been holding for 1.5 years. His critics also say that there’s not much he has achieved during his term as DKI governor. “I don’t think I can say that he’s tested as a leader in terms of capability,” said Yunarto. “During his 1.5 years as governor, substantially there hasn’t been any major change, except for change of public trust to its leader. But we can’t judge Jokowi by his programs. He builds his values differently. He never talks about big ideas. What he encourages is participatory democracy. He gains trust from stakeholders, including the people, so all of them are willing to participate to work.”

©spdi.eu

Prabowo Subianto Before December 2012, when Jokowi’s figure entered the national stage, the former lieutenant general turned businessman always came on top of the polls as the most desired presidential candidate. In 2009, Prabowo ran as a vice-president candidate to Megawati Soekarnoputri but could only manage to finish behind Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono - Boediono. This time, the chairman of the Great Indonesia Movement Party (Gerindra) comes back stronger and aims for the presidential seat. Interestingly, one of the reasons why Prabowo is popular is because many people see him as the total opposite of President SBY. “Prabowo consistently brands himself as somebody who’s willing to fix the country from fundamentals like welfare of the people. His message for social welfare is twinned with his brand of nationalist values. Prabowo is content with his image as a focused and firm person, creating a contrast to the reigning president that is perceived by many as ‘soft’,” says Iman. “He’s like the antithesis of SBY,” adds Yunarto. “When people think they had enough of President SBY who’s perceived as normative and full of doubt, along came the figure of Prabowo with his vigorous, daredevil attitude. This caught many people’s attention.” Yunarto continues,

“If we take a look at his party, we have to admit that Prabowo is well-organized. The legislative candidates of Gerindra are extraordinary. They could attract quality candidates and local leaders. This means he’s somebody who knows a territorial battle and has a massive impact of his electability.” Despite frequently portrayed with nationalist values, Yoes suggests that Prabowo might not be as rigid as he seemed: “If elected, I think he would be pragmatic and some businessmen that are close to him would benefit. His rhetoric might be nationalist, but we have to remember that his father (the late Prof. Dr. Soemitro Djojohadikusumo) is a member of the so-called Berkeley Mafia. His brother is a businessman. To some extent, Prabowo has been a businessman himself. Chances are, his economy model is similar to Soeharto’s.” Compared to other candidates, Prabowo has the clearest vision and some of his ideas are implemented in programs, but this may not be what the voters are looking for.

Aburizal Bakrie After he was elected as the chairman of the Golkar party in 2009, it’s crystal clear that the businessman and former minister in President SBY’s administration aspired to run for


©Satuuntukindonesia

©Flickr

©Twicsy

©Globalindonesianvoices

©askja.blog.is

©Solopos

presidency in 2014. While his party is predicted to finish strong in the legislative election, it remains a mystery how he will fare in the presidential election. “Ical is a hardworker and very pragmatic. He invites anybody to come on board as long as it’s for his benefit. His economy is capitalistic and he’s very close to local businessmen. Not so long ago he had a dispute with Rothschild. I assume this kind of character might scare foreign investors to come. He’s a solid example of political oligarchy,” says Yoes. Bakrie’s business instinct and organisation skill is also echoed by Iman as his biggest political asset: “I think Bakrie and Golkar are more structured and a step ahead of other parties in terms of organisation. He also offers an economic platform that he envisioned will last until 2045, although his brand is not as strong as Prabowo’s and Megawati’s.” Yunarto opines that the biggest threat to Ical actually comes from his own party. “The common problem for Golkar candidates all these years is no candidate could get bigger than the party. Golkar is too big to be designed as a political machine for one person only. That’s what happened to Wiranto in 2004 and Jusuf Kalla in 2009. Golkar has a

lot of brilliant politicians who have their own mass who, in turn, aim for government seats for themselves. This is why they couldn’t be solid internally.”

Jusuf Kalla The former vice-president lost a presidential election in 2009, but his name comes into the equation as a potential candidate to re-assume his old position as the number two in command. Several presidential candidates are reported to put interest in Kalla potentially paired with Jokowi as the most lauded by analysts. “Kalla doesnt have to advertise himself anymore. His tenure as vice-president from 2004-2009 is fondly remembered by the Indonesian people. He’s well-planned, responsive, and a bit opportunistic,” said Iman. “Jusuf Kalla is a popular candidate, but not being backed by any party is a minus. He doesn’t have any incentive to negotiate and some would think that he’s a far more dominant figure as number two as he had shown during his vice-presidency. But a lot of surveys suggest that JK will raise electability of any presidential candidate, including Jokowi. This is an advantage,” said Yunarto.

Other Candidates Outside the front-runners, some other politicians have also declared their interests to run for presidency. “Names like Mahfud MD, Gita Wirjawan, Dahlan Iskan, Pramono Edhie, Anies Baswedan, will only manage to be vice-president candidates at best. They don’t have enough backing from political parties,” said Yoes. “Hatta Rajasa could be an outside bet. His political skills are fantastic. He could manage to be a minister in four different cabinets and as an administrator, he knows how to govern. The problem is he doesn’t have any incentive,” concluded Yunarto.

Pangeran Siahaan wears so many creative hats, but he prefers to be known as a writer. He covers various topics from current affairs to sports. He also presents a football program on national TV.

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MEET THE JAKARTA EXPAT

Thomas Mayrhofer 18 months. Taking advantage of many educational opportunities offered by my employers, I steadily advanced my career and moved out of the kitchen. My first opportunity as General Manager came in 2005 in Vancouver, Canada. In 2009, I joined Pan Pacific Hotel Group as Vice President of Restaurants, Bars & Events based in Singapore. One of my passions remains to build strong relationships and connecting teams, which is harder to achieve in a corporate role where travel combined with short visits is required. As a result, I asked to return to the property level and this is how I ended up at Sari Pan Pacific Hotel.

An Austrian hospitality industry professional with 30 years experience and a passion for the game of golf. By Gabriella Panjaitan

Where are you from and when did you move to Indonesia? I am from Salzburg, Austria. However, I have not lived abroad for many years. For the past 3.5 years I have worked in Jakarta which is my first experience to live in Indonesia. Prior to Jakarta, I was based in Bangkok, Thailand. How do you like Jakarta? While Jakarta may take a little longer to become familiar with than some other cities, I think it is an amazing city and has a lot to offer for both expatriates and visitors. Naturally, traffic is far worse than my hometown, however I love Indonesian hospitality, the sincerity and smiles all Indonesians seem to be born with. I suppose the greatest difference with my hometown is that Jakarta only offers two seasons while my hometown enjoys four. I miss skiing, but I certainly do not miss shovelling snow from my driveway!

On your leisure time, what do you do in Jakarta? Golf, golf and more golf! Oh, did I forget to mention golf? As soon as I arrived in Jakarta I committed one day to golf. Jakarta offers a wonderful variety of golf courses and I am still amazed how all of these courses continue to fill up every weekend. Aside from golf, I am also active in the business community of Jakarta and attend many chamber networking functions where my wife Jade happily joins my side. Which is your favourite golf course in Indonesia and why? It is not fair to say that I have a favourite golf course as there are some truly worldclass golf courses in Indonesia. During late 2012 and early 2013 I had the opportunity to assist our sister property in Bali during the transition of two General Managers; it gave me the opportunity to oversee Pan

Pacific Nirwana Bali Resort which includes one of Indonesia’s greatest golf courses at Nirwana Bali. This was truly an enjoyment and a privilege. Currently, I am a member at Emeralda golf course, but I also enjoy playing great courses such as Royale Jakarta, Jagorawi and Rainbow Hills. Have you ever competed in golf tournaments? As an active golfer I compete in many golf tournaments and play in both serious and charity tournaments. Last year I was invited to join the Jakarta European Ryder Cup tournament at Cengkareng Golf Course which I would consider to be one of the highlights of my golfing. As General Manager of Sari Pan Pacific hotel in Jakarta, what constitutes the bulk of your job? I split my core workload into three separate areas. The first area is that a hotel cannot run without the full support of a team. In this role I need to inspire my immediate team and lead by strong example. A happy team that can depend on their leader will be the best team to provide great guest service. Next is our guests; making an emotional connection with our guests is the best way to achieve long-term relationships, which in turn results in loyal guests that will support us for years to come. As General Manager I have to show my team the commitment to our guests and I have to demonstrate that I always have time to meet and greet our guests. Finally, to build a strong and trusting relationship with our owning company so they trust in the financial support we ask from them. Is your background in hospitality? I am nearing almost 30 years in hospitality and can honestly say that hospitality is my life. My parents immigrated to Canada when I was 16 years old and as such my studies happened in Canada. In 2008, I graduated with an MBA from University of Guelph, the only university that offers a hospitality-oriented MBA. What was your professional journey like to come to this position now? I started in the kitchen and in 1989 I left Canada to become the Executive Chef at New World Hotel in Xian, China. After six months, I transferred to Beijing with the same company where I spent another

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What are some challenges that hoteliers today face in Indonesia? We are experiencing strong growth which puts a burden on our human capital. It seems to be harder to fill some key roles with qualified and experienced personnel as some of our associates pursue their dreams. Strong leadership combined with ‘real’ development for our associates are critical at such times. Aside from this, Indonesian tourism continues to outgrow GDP which essentially means this is a great time to be in the hotel business in Indonesia. Do you participate in any organizations or societies in Jakarta? I am very active in many social events and I believe if you are active you also have to give back, which means volunteering some of your time on various boards. Recently, I have been elected as Vice Chairman of Jakarta International Hotel Association which represents some 50 Hotels within Jakarta. I am also a board member of SKAL Jakarta where my position is International Public Relations Director. What motivates you? I love people and that is why the hospitality industry is a perfect fit. Of course, I would not be as successful with my career without the continued support from my wife and our two boys to motivate both of us. As far as passion is concerned, I do have to say that Jakarta has certainly cemented golf as one of my great passions and I shall never forget the wonderful golf courses I have been privileged to play at and the many great people I have met there. In five years or so, what kind of Jakarta would you like to see? It’s hard not to include improved traffic here, but five years may not be sufficient time to fix the city’s infrastructure. I also hope that Jakarta will be able to improve on overall cleanliness. I am very disappointed each time I see a river in Jakarta as most river banks are littered with far too much refuse. Each person in Jakarta must do their best to educate and lead by example as in many cities’ rivers are truly treasured and often become a local tourist attraction. Rivers are so important to our ecosystem and generally can recover quickly, however they can only recover when everyone participates. This is a small personal wish of mine.


MEET THE BALI EXPAT

David Metcalf Meet David Metcalf, aka Dayak Dave, a photographer and author whose passion for Indonesia gives back to the people he photographs and loves. By Angela Richardson

We have a private villa for rent in Ubud called Villa Damee and we are right next to a village. If you want to embrace their way of living, the people are so happy to welcome you into their culture. I’ve been very privileged and I get invited to the ceremonies and I’ve seen all sorts of amazing things, from mass cremations and digging up of bones to trance ceremonies. I’ve seen stuff I can’t quite explain.

"My photography is really all about creating awareness, hopefully inspiring people to get involved and improve the lives of Indonesians."

David, how did your Indonesian story begin? Well, I lived in Jakarta back in 2000 until 2005 working for UPS and had worked for them for 20 years. I loved Jakarta! I had this passion for photography, but it was very much a hobby at the time and I would travel all around different parts of Indonesia. The kids were younger then so we’d drag the kids, chuck them on the plane and off we’d go! I always took photographs. I did a couple of exhibitions and produced some calendars which we sold to raise money for charity.

How did the idea to start your photography tours begin? I didn’t know what to do with my photography passion and I went on a workshop in Queenstown, New Zealand with two very good photographers, Jackie Ranken and Michael Langford, and I thought, why not organize photography tours in Bali and Indonesia? I asked if they were interested to get involved and they were very keen. So, I organized the first one in September 2012. I approached Mark Rayner who’s an amazing photography teacher and had never left Australia before, and we did the first tour in November,

©Nyoman Pujawan

When my time came to an end on that assignment, we were seriously thinking about moving to Bali, but the kids were still young, so we decided to continue on in New Zealand for a year, followed by Brisbane for five. Really since I left Jakarta, I always wanted to come back to Indonesia.

You can get a copy of David and Stephanie’s book or find out about David's photography tours at www. davidmetcalfphotography.com. You can also purchase their book at most nationwide bookstores.

If anyone is interested in finding out more about David’s education and health programs in Kalimantan, or helping in some way please email him directly on davidmetcalf3@ mac.com or phone: 081 113 312 55.

What is it that made you want to come back? I just fell in love with the country really; I loved it. I’m very interested in native cultures, and I’ve just had the most amazing trips and times, and I love the people. Wherever we travelled, people were really nice everywhere. So once the kids grew up and left school, it was always a plan of mine to come back; not just doing photography, but to get involved with the community and give back. I’m not here to live in some nice villa in Seminyak and not connect with the people. That’s always been an important part of my thinking. Why did you choose to live in Ubud and not Seminyak, for example? Because Ubud is the cultural hub of Bali. If you’re interested in culture, this is the place to be, there’s no comparison. There’s no culture in Seminyak or down that way; it’s devoid of Balinese culture. Here it’s so alive. I’ve explored a lot of the back country, back roads and into the villages, and it’s just like thousands of years ago; nothing’s changed, which is just wonderful.

which was really successful. We’ve had tours in Kalimantan, Bali, India, and America and this year Sri Lanka is on the agenda and the islands east of Bali on a luxury boat. Also the fantastic Hornbill festival in North East India! How much would a two-week photography tour set you back? For the orangutan trip, which is eight nights, it is $3,600 and that includes pretty much everything. It’s good value because it includes domestic transfers, the boat up the river, the teachers, and accommodation. Do you do shorter tours as well? Yes, I also do half-day and one-day tours in Bali, which will appeal more to the local photographers. These are specifically around Ubud and around special ceremonies. What if someone feels a bit intimidated but wants to join? They’re very much welcome and we certainly cater for that. We’ve had beginners from Canberra who had only bought a camera just before they boarded

the plane, so they were complete beginners. It’s very much open to anyone. When you’re doing these tours, how do the locals respond to you? They’re intrigued and they always come up and ask what’s going on. They’re just as interested in us as we are in them. That’s the other thing that’s very strong on my tours is that I take people to non-touristy places, so most of the time there are no other foreigners at all. People come here for the photography, and we provide that, but they walk away with a much deeper experience and they want to get involved and give something back to the community. Your book, Indonesia Hidden Heritage is a stunning photography book, which your wife Stephanie Brookes brings alive with her stories. How long did it take to put this book together and what were your drives to complete it? The book was a 12 month project. We visited 12 different places over that time to create the stories and photos. Six of the stories are mine and six are Stephanie’s. The drive was in pursuit of finding interesting cultural stories and the desire to photograph the people and beauty of Indonesia. What do you feel this book brings to the table? The 120-page book is mostly photographs and the stories tend to be personal experiences we had whilst attending ceremonies, visiting hidden away villages and connecting with the many interesting indigenous cultures of this extraordinary country. I hope that it inspires people to jump on a plane or boat and visit some of the places described in the book. There is a section in the back called ‘Cultural Connections’ with emails and contact phone numbers of good, reliable local guides which makes it easy for people to travel to these places. There is nothing on the bookshelves quite like this book, so we sincerely hope people will read it and learn more about the amazing variety of people that live on some of these thousands of islands. What do you have planned for the future, David? Plans are underway to open a photography gallery in Ubud later in the year. I also plan to start a photography festival in Ubud next year with talented overseas and local photographers presenting. But my main objectives at the moment are two environmental and health programs in villages in Central Kalimantan and Flores, and a documentary film about a trip I am doing in August into Central Borneo to raise awareness about Dayak culture and the environment. My photography is really all about creating awareness, hopefully inspiring people to get involved and improve the lives of Indonesians, and the importance of preserving the environment. issue 114 indonesia expat

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TRAVEL

Anu is new to Indonesia and although she is a lawyer, she is willing to work for pay as a writer, a movie critic, a traveller, a food taster, a pillow tester or a daydreamer if given the chance.

pulau kotok

In Conversation with Nature Words by Anu Sarah Mohan Photos by Satyam Sharat

Travel and tourism have become so jaded these days that few places evoke the sense of calm, peace or romance we all seek from vacations. Pulau Seribu, or the Thousand Islands in the Java Sea off the coast of Jakarta, however are a pleasant departure from this state of affairs. A day in Pulau Kotok, one of the 110 islands that make up the Pulau Seribu chain, is all it took to remind me of a world where nirvana could still be a possibility. A two-hour yacht ride away, Kotok is an island that should be part of a travel catalogue highlighting the ‘top 10 exotic destinations of the world’ or ‘top 50 remote and stunning destinations of the world’ — except that it is not. And that is very much the charm of it. It is one of the only 11 islands in the bunch that house a resort, so one can imagine how unexploited and ‘Survivor’-like it may seem! With a single wooden pier mystically leading us into the belly of the tropical island, the only thing that kept me from leaping into the clear blue water on the side was the inconvenient reminder that I was fully clothed and more importantly, that it wasn’t quite right to drown my companion’s Nikon D60 — which I was carrying at the time. The Alam Kotok Resort, which manages the island, greeted us with palm-leaf head bands and a pineapple-citrus drink much to my school-girlish delight. Facilities are basic — there are no fancy gazebos, no uptight staff, no liveried doormen ushering you in, no swimming pools or lily-ponds with water spouts and faux bridges. So, if you are used to cushiony, spotless white beds, luxury toiletries or attendants in poshly done up restrooms it is unlikely that this place is for you. But on the other hand if frill-less, rustic and simple do the trick, then look no further. Little ‘floating cabins’ jutting out into the water provide inviting personal spots to settle down in when you arrive. A dive 10

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shop located right next to where you set foot on the white sandy island, will rent out snorkelling gear if you are interested. If you are not interested, that’s fine too and you can choose to sit by the water in languid bliss, and watch others at it. It is still recommended that you take a peek from your dry perch into the water as you are bound to get a glimpse of some of the marine wonders that lie beneath. For firsttime snorkelers, the dive shop also arranges for an escort (literally, because he will string you up with the other newbies and ‘escort’ you along the waterside). Once you have snorkelled to your heart’s content and/or developed a healthy ruddy tan, you can set out to explore the island. Conveniently crafted pathways, lined generously with lush frond-like foliage, run across the island and you can traverse the entire area in less than an hour, give or take a few minutes. On an especially sultry day, a curious monitor lizard or two may give you company along the way. The lazier ones amongst you (myself included) can opt to lounge by the azure lagoon on the farther side of the pier. Loungers and little tables made of driftwood serve as handy and very organic resting places for your sunglasses or your book. It was only a matter of time before the white sand between my toes, the little schools of fish flitting around in the shallow water and the soft swish-swash of the mangrove leaves wove themselves into the ultimate idyllic experience. Lunch, as are other meals, is served at the floating restaurant on the island and is a non-fussy affair with a simple vegetable dish, fish curry and rice. Soup and salad are available for the light eaters. A Bintang, readily available in the makeshift ‘bar’ will serve to mellow you down further, if that's even possible. At this point, you’d be convinced that there is nothing like a fresh, well-balanced meal, the taste of cold beer

FAST FACTS Country: Indonesia Province: DKI Jakarta

HOW TO GET THERE Speed boats depart from Ancol Pier early in the morning. Several tour operators provide one-day tour packages. Book in advance for overnight stay especially during weekends. WHAT TO DO Sunbathing, snorkelling, exploring.

WHAT TO BRING Sunglasses, sunscreen, swimwear, snorkelling gear (if you don’t want to rent them out on the island), a mat to lie down on, snacks or nibbles and a good book to keep you company.

and lilting sounds of the sea, to set things right and reinforce your belief in the goodness of life. It takes Rp.850,000 and a sleepy boat ride at 8am (boats depart from Ancol pier) to reach Kotok and you have until 3pm before the boat brings you back to Jakarta. Spending the night there will of course cost some more. The allure of Kotok lies in its sparseness. The amenities are so Spartan, that nothing distracts from the raw beauty of the island — you can almost hear nature speaking to you. The best part of course is that you leave the island knowing you’ll be back soon because it’s barely a couple of hours away from Jakarta. Here’s to discovering more gem-like places like Kotok, where less equals so much more!


FOOD & DRINK

al nafoura

The Convivial Lebanese Dining Room By Gabriella Panjaitan

Amidst the craze on new and trending Asian and European restaurants typically found in the Senopati or Sudirman area, one should consider going off the beaten track and discover a treasure such as Al Nafoura. Nestled comfortably in the Le Meridien hotel in Jakarta, Al Nafoura is not the archetypal hotel restaurant; it boasts a fine-dining Lebanese cuisine — with added surprises.

with oriental rice. The grilled chicken was marinated in yoghurt and traditional Lebanese spices before it was grilled, which resulted in a supremely tender and flavourful white meat. Alongside the mix grill was an extraordinary garlic sauce, made of potato, garlic, lemon juice, etc. The Haruf Ouzi is another popular choice for an entrée; it is grilled lamb, marinated overnight in spices and vegetables.

Al Nafoura was established in 1998 when the Lebanese expatriate community in Jakarta started to grow. Since its opening, more and more people have grown fond of Al Nafoura’s cuisine; even local Indonesians in between many regular expatriate patrons. Executive Chef Hussein Sleiman, having previously worked in Lebanon and Dubai, added great contribution to the taste and work ethics to Al Nafoura.

For dessert, the baklawa is a musttry; although reduced in sweetness to accommodate our palates (traditionally, baklawas are known to be very sweet), I appreciate the genuineness of the nutty pistachio paste. Another dessert served was Om-Ali, a comforting bread pudding with milk and puff pastry. The consistency is not unlike oatmeal inside the puff, and raisins were present to liven up the flavour. We washed it down with some Moroccan mint tea, although, when available, it is recommended that one tries the Lebanese coffee — rumour has it, if you’re lucky, Chef Hussein would do a tasseograph reading of coffee grounds once you are done with the drink. The coffee is strong and is usually enjoyed together with sweet desserts, such as the baklawa.

Al Nafoura (meaning ‘fountain’ in Arabic) has beautiful Lebanese interior designs. As you enter its premises, you’ll be greeted by charming fountains. Arabic-influenced décor presents a romantic and warm environment, even in the daytime. At night, Al Nafoura appears more intimate with its strategically placed dimmed lights and stone walls to create an exotic atmosphere. The music also contributes to creating a traditional Lebanese ambience. The menu displays options of authentic Lebanese food, and some from neighbouring regions such as Moroccan and Egyptian cuisines. I was delightfully surprised that the set of choices features a myriad of vegetarian options amongst an array of grilled meat and kebabs. We were advised to try the mezza for starters, which is a combination of small platters of appetizers, similar to that of Spain’s tapas and Italy’s antipasto. Our mezza comprised of platters with tabouleh, hummus, babaganoush , samboussek and more. The hummus was infused with Tahini, which is imported from Lebanon. It was one of the best traditional hummus I’ve had; the fusion of savoury chickpea, Tahini, olive oil and a bit of lemon makes for a tasty dip. Another ‘best’ is the tabouleh, a parsley salad with tomatoes, onion, garlic, etc. The best thing about this tabouleh is the use of just the right amount of cinnamon (yes, cinnamon) and lemon juice; such a refreshing and palate-exciting appetizer. Naturally, piping hot pita bread was part of this mezza as well; it was a very delicious first course that we enjoyed even alongside our main course. A special theme is introduced every month at Al Nafoura; this month is all about Middle Eastern seafood. The Samakhara Ma Farika, a special grilled salmon entrée was a delightful hearty dish with hara sauce. Sprinkles of peanuts were added to the tangy yet savoury hara sauce, making it all the more interesting. A note-worthy addition to this dish is the steamed green cracked wheat as a nice substitute for rice. My partner chose the mix grill for main course, which consists of lamb kebab, grilled chicken and beef, complemented

Chef Hussein is a visionary who created the perfect balance between authenticity of taste with the right amount of consideration to local palates. None of the food on the menu is that spicy — Lebanese food is not typically spicy — but guests are welcome to request for special condiments or potency of spices if they’d like, and Chef Hussein will adjust wisely and accordingly. In fact, one of Al Nafoura’s regular guests — who feels the need for some more spiciness in one of the dishes — requested for specially-made chilli that was henceforth known as sambal Mahmoud. When asked about her thoughts on the philosophy of the food at Al Nafoura, Arie Ardianti, Marketing Communications Manager said, “We are proud to serve healthy Middle Eastern food. We use olive oil instead of regular cooking oil, we serve vegetables as guests await their food and almost none of the items on the menu are fried or use excessive dairy products.” Although the portions are quite large, I find the food not greasy and the ingredients used are fresh and invigorating — lemon juice is widely utilized in most dishes. It is best to come to Al Nafoura at night time, where the ambience is more relaxed. As the restaurant overlooks the Le Meridien’s swimming pool, a refreshing surrounding is found as you dine outside on the patio area. This is the only smoking area of the restaurant, and inside — adhering to the hotel’s nonsmoking policy — is strictly a non-smoking area. You can even enjoy shisha smoking on this terrace area upon request. If you come on the weekends (Friday and Saturday nights), you are in for a treat; a free belly dancing show is available for guests. You can also take advantage of the Saturday buffet at Al Nafoura for your weekend brunch.

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1. Hummus - Rp.49,000 2. Samakhara Ma Farika - Rp.178,000 3. Harouf Ouzi - Rp.210,000 4. Dessert (Helwa+baklawa) Al Nafoura - Rp.60,000

RATING SUMMARY FOOD SERVICE VALUE ATMOSPHERE

AL NAFOURA Le Meridien Hotel Ground Floor Jl. Jend. Sudirman Kav. 18–20, Jakarta Tel: +62 (0) 21 251 3131 Opening Hours: Monday – Thursday : 11.30 AM - 2.30 PM, 6.30 PM - 10.30 PM Friday : 11.30 AM – 10.30 PM Saturday – Sunday and Holidays : 6.30 PM - 10.30 PM

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FACES OF INDONESIA

Trisno

The Mobile Coffee Seller By Hush Petersen

Trisno was far from surprised when Indonesian Democratic Party of Struggle chairwoman, Megawati Sukarnoputri gave Jakarta Governor Joko Widodo the nod as their presidential candidate. “I predicted it,” he says over honking horns and the roar of Kopaja exhaust on Jalan Sudirman, along the sidewalk outside of the Grand Sahid Hotel in the heart of Jakarta. “I told my all friends it was going to happen. It had to happen.” Trisno, a 52-year-old pedagang kopi keliling (mobile coffee seller) whose route starts in Bendungan Hilir and takes him past the Grand Sahid every day, looks to one of the uniformed guards who is taking a break from waving through black sedans to enjoy a cup of coffee and corroborate his story. His friend smiles politely and toes at the ground with his boot. “Honestly,” Trisno says while mixing another cup of hot water and instant coffee, “I would have liked to see Jokowi and Prabowo together on the same ticket. I like Jokowi, he’s clean.” With that, Trisno takes the plastic wrapper the instant coffee came in and places it securely inside a red plastic bag located on the side of his bike and serving as a mobile rubbish bin.

Maybe the reason Trisno likes Jokowi so much, insisting that he is not like most politicians, is because Trisno isn’t like other coffee sellers. A father of two, Trisno has only been selling coffee for seven months. For the last three decades, he worked his fingers to the bone at a sawmill in Malaysia. But conditions there were tough, so much so that Trisno smiled, but insisted he not go into too much detail concerning why he left the sawmill and returned to Jakarta. “I wanted to come back and be my own boss,” he says patting the seat on his bike. “I have everything I need to take care of my family right here. And I can work whatever hours I want. Most days I leave the house at 5am and then come back at 5pm. Between that, I can meet with friends and stop and sit under a tree and chat with friends if I want. Then, if I’m not too tired I go out again at night and sell some coffee or instant noodles. I get to go where I want, when I want.” Not a bad way to go through life. Most people just talk about being entrepreneurs, or being their own boss; Trisno decided seven months ago, that rather than talking about it, he was just going to do it.

As Jakarta moves from speculating about what it would be like ‘if’ Jokowi runs, his enthusiastic supporters are now dealing with the question of what it will be like after he wins. Most polls have Jokowi beating Prabowo by over 20 percent. “I ride a bike every day to work. I have seen pictures of him on a bike plenty of times. He’s not like other politicians,” Trisno says.

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Hush Petersen is currently on sabbatical from the hero's journey. He loves sipping Budweisers, doing the crossword and judging people outside Ranch Market in Mega Kuningan. You should join him some time.


NATIVE CULTURES

mama aleta, guardian of timor’s sacred towers Grace Susetyo travels Indonesia with an appetite for her homeland's history and culture. Currently pursuing her Master of Development Studies in Wellington, NZ. Contact her at g.c.susetyo@gmail.com or @farawayisles

Solid as Rock By Grace Susetyo

Fine sunrays kiss the pine-covered hills and lush grasslands as our motorbikes swept through the rural dirt roads. There’s a glittering pond to my right and a herd of gorgeous brown horses grazing to my left. In the distance, I spotted two towering rocks peppered in shrubs. I had set my eyes on the first sights of Mollo. I first learned about Mollo, a district in the highlands of Timor Tengah Selatan, at a cultural exhibition in Jakarta several years ago. The displays of colourful tenun ikat products reminded me that they came from somewhere in my maternal homeland of NTT. In the backdrop there was a cartoon on the story behind the textiles, on how “Mama” Aleta Baun courageously stopped the marble mines plundering her homeland’s sacred rock towers. Having grown up in a mining compound, I believe mines have an interesting relationship to the natives of the lands where they operate. On one hand, it would be almost impossible to find goods in our modern urban civilisation whose production did not involve mined commodities. On the other hand, mining is not without serious impact on the lands where they operate and the people who have traditionally depended on that land for their livelihoods. So despite my awareness of my own dependence on the mining industry, I have come to respect communities who do stand up against it to protect their homelands. Marble mining began in Mollo in 2004. The jobsites include Nausus, Naetapan, and Fatulik. “Our elders did not know what mining meant. They thought that the company was there to chisel an artwork out of the rocks,” said Aleta. When they realised what was really happening, the natives of Mollo formed the indigenous association Pokja OAT to fight against mining in their homeland. According to a village elder, the mine initially approached the local tribal rajas to negotiate permission for operating in Mollo, but did not really involve otherwise important community leaders. The mine promised to build houses, power plants, schools and health clinics for the locals. But it didn’t take long for locals to notice the damage and suffer its consequences. Long before the people of Mollo studied science, their ancestors had recognised Fatu Nausus as an important regulator of their homeland’s hydrology. “The marble towers are porous and there’s vegetation growing on their surfaces. When it rains, the water trickles down those pores

TIMOR TENGAH SELATAN Country: Indonesia Province: Nusa Tenggara Timur (NTT) Land Area: 3,947.1 km2 (TTS) / 30,777 km2 (Timor island) Highest Elevation: Mutis (near Fatumnasi, TTS) 2,427m amsl Largest city: Soe Population: 441,155 (2010 estimate) Mama Aleta

Entrance to Desa Nausus in Mollo

support the mine and those who are against it. Perhaps, this familial enmity was the greatest of all the disasters that led to the mine’s closure.

A view from the cut rock

Graffiti on the walls of the cut rock tower

Some members of the community also retaliated by wrecking company vehicles. However, seeing that violence did not solve the problem, the community decided to stand up for their rights in peace. Marble mining in Mollo ceased in 2010. “The mines were closed by the power of the people,” said Aleta. Back then, the community organised a peaceful blockade of the mining site. Even though the police and the military were backing up the mine, the community outnumbered them.

Mama Aleta with local residents

and follows the roots of the vegetation, forming wellsprings at the base of the rock,” explained Aleta. The Nausus wellspring, as well as those found at the bottom of other rocks in Mollo, become the water source of four major rivers in Timor. “Mollo is the heart of Timor,” said Aleta, likening the wellsprings of Mollo’s rocks to a heart pumping blood to the entire island. The Timorese believe that rocks are a land’s bones, water is its blood, and the earth and forests its flesh. Being an agrarian society, depending on the land for its livelihood, the Timorese believe that disruptions to any of these elements will cause the earth to lose its power to sustain life. Therefore, the Timorese believe that the ancestors entrusted them to look after the land and make sure that it remains capable of providing good livelihood for later generations. Timorese surnames are traditionally derived from sacred local rocks, waters, or forests — by bearing the surname, one professes himself or herself as a guardian of the element of nature after which the clan is named.

Horses grazing with Fatu Nausus in the background

The soil in Mollo is sandy clay, so when rocks are removed, erosion easily occurs. “An entire village that lived under the rocks had to move,” said Aleta. “The water debit in the wellsprings decreased, and many disappeared altogether because the mine stripped our forests. We get floods in the rain, but safe water supply is difficult.” The mines also caused a loss of habitat for monkeys, cuscus, civets, birds, and snakes. “According to tradition, the base of the rock is grazing ground for livestock. Tradition forbids us from disturbing the rocks,” said Aleta. “Even the WWF and the government assigns the place as a conservation reserve and outsiders are not supposed to access it. But sometimes this country can be funny.” Aleta attributed the mine’s closure to the consistent prayers and rituals of the people. The Timorese are known for their sacrament of trees. Sacred trees become a place for bees to build a beehive and produce honey. However, this ritual is sometimes used to declare war, as has happened between Mollo natives who

“We refrained from committing anarchy, so the police thought twice about arresting us, lest we press charges. There’s no verbal abuse from either side. We simply made sure that their machines did not touch our rock.” Today, four years after mining in Mollo, the natives actively engage in Pokja OAT to execute food security, community leadership in protecting natural resources, animal husbandry, gender empowerment, the advocacy of justice, and business cooperatives. Aleta said she hopes that these activities also serve as a means of making peace in the community and mending of familial bonds that were severed by the mining conflict. In 2013 Mama Aleta was awarded the Goldman Prize for grassroots environmental activism. “Yes, we do need development. But what we really need are land, water, rock, and forests. We do not need destruction,” said Aleta. “People tend to think of NTT as poor. But we do not need handouts. We don’t deny that we are behind in terms of electricity, infrastructure, and all those amenities of development. But we do not need to live in excess. That will only cause us to forget who we are, forget unity, and forget our community. We prefer to live in modesty.”

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anagrammaticography

A Satirical Guide to Indonesian Politicians what are their chances in the 2014 elections? By Martin Jenkins

A while back I was watching this Metro TV program called Kick Andy and on it there was this impoverished woman who had kept changing her name when she was younger because she was always suffering from ill health. Unsurprisingly, she didn’t get any better. But after changing her name for the umpteenth time, guess what? She actually stopped getting sick! Wonders of all wonders! Apparently she had finally found the “right” name and was now destined to live a long and healthy life — well, until her death, of course. Anyway, what with the general elections coming up in Indonesia, it made me wonder; what about the country’s politicians? Are they blessed with the “right” name or not? No, we don’t need to worry about what the politicians actually believe or what policies they intend to implement. What really matters are their names!

megawati sukarnoputri (pdip)

mohammad mahfud (pkb)

yusril ihza mahendra (pbb)

Although not noted for her intellectual acumen, Megawati is at least a loveable housewife with a famous father.

Solid credentials but lacks charisma.

Leader of a party with no seats in parliament, Yusril’s chances are slim to say the least.

Verdict: Utopias wreak maturing

Verdict: Hmm! Aha! Mad Of Mud

gita wirjawan (democrat) Highly successful businessmen and aspiring jazz musician.

Verdict: I'm zany, lush diarrhea

Verdict: Jaw grain wait!

hary tanoesoedibjo (hanura)

joko widodo (pdip)

surya paloh (nasdem)

hatta rajasa (pan)

Lacking charisma, Hary has been unable to generate a strong public image despite owning a number of TV stations.

Man of the people (hurrah!) — but without the revolutionary zeal of a Hugo Chávez — Joko is the clear favourite to win the presidency according to a slew of opinion polls.

Media mogul who owns Metro TV, a national TV station, which is noted for its tendency to employ hot and attractive newsreaders.

Solid minister with a good track record who married off his daughter (Siti Ruby Aliya Rajasa) to SBY’s youngest son, Ibas.

Verdict: Oh Dear! Obeisant joy

Verdict: Wood OK Jodi

Verdict: An hourly sap

Verdict: That a jar as a

wiranto (hanura)

sutiyoso (pkpi)

prabowo subianto (gerindra)

rhoma irama (pkb)

Amateur crooner with matinee idol good looks. Just don’t mention East Timor or the May 1998 riots.

Selfless and tireless worker for the people, Sutiyoso’s crowning achievement was turning Jakarta into a city of huge cultural interest by establishing it as Southeast Asia’s “Venice of the East” (subject to adequate rainfall).

UK-educated ex-leader of Indonesia’s feared special ops, KOPASSUS. Now a socialist, apparently. Long-term plans to run the country, and with his financial resources who would bet against him?

Verdict: Rat Wino!

Verdict: So it's you!

But how do we interpret them? Well actually that’s not so difficult because there is ‘anagrammaticography’, a highly regarded tool which is noted for its uncanny ability to accurately draw meaningful conclusions about the political figures and their views on a host of issues. Used since the middle ages, anagrammaticography really came to the fore in the 17th century when it was noted that an anagram of ‘William Shakespeare’ revealed the phrase ‘I am a weakish speller’ (Shakespeare, of course, was noted for signing his name in at least seven different ways). Although criticized by religious types as “the work of the devil”, the power of political anagrammaticography cannot be overlooked. An anagram of ‘Sarah Palin’ rather ominously reveals ‘Sharia plan’ (I always suspected that the US religious right had made an unholy (sic) alliance with the Jihadists, so thank God Barack Obama won the US presidential elections). Incidentally, an anagram of Barack Obama comes up with 'Aback, a Rambo!' — strongly suggesting he ain’t quite the limp-wristed liberal that many believe he is!

Noted womanizer who is not ashamed to play the religious card, the prospect of this legendary dangdut singer becoming the president sends shivers down the spine.

Verdict: Now absorb utopia. (Now I wonder if that's ever going to come true...)

Verdict: Or I am haram

But how do Indonesia’s politicians shape up? Well, here’s a lowdown on some of the leading names in Indonesia’s political scene:

Conclusion The anagrammaticography is fairly harsh and rules out many of the contenders — mostly notably Wiranto, Rhoma Irama, Surya Paloh, Bakrie and Gita Wirjawan. The leading contender Joko Widodo is given a lukewarm vote of confidence, although surprisingly, the analysis clearly suggests that Prabowo (Now absorb utopia!) will win the presidential election with Sutiyoso (So it’s you!) as his right hand man! The military to stay in power? Some things never change.

Martin Jenkins comes from good old England but has spent most of his adult life abroad. Wary investor, keen traveller. Writer also. www.al-terity.blogspot.com

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aburizal bakrie (golkar)

dahlan iskan (democrat)

yusuf kalla (golkar/ pkb)

One of the richest men in Indonesia (worth anywhere from US$3-5 billion depending on who you believe) and the protectorate of the poor, Aburizal has a less-than-enviable track record in business and he is about as popular in East Java as an anorexic at a weight-loss convention.

Global car manufacturers like Toyota and Ford spend hundreds of millions of dollars on testing to ensure their cars are roadworthy and safe to be driven on public highways. Such concerns didn't bother Dahlan Iskan, however, and he drove around his flashy-looking ‘Ferrari’ electric car with wild abandon — before the brakes failed and the car crashed. Luckily, no one was hurt, although the self-made ex Java Post and PLN man still remains a long shot for the presidency.

This Golkar Party stalwart is the second child out of 17. Although he has nationalist tendencies he also supports foreigners’ efforts to ingratiate themselves into Indonesian society: "If the janda [divorcees] get modest homes even if the foreign tourists later leave them, then it's OK. The children resulting from these relationships will have good genes. There will be more television actors and actresses from these pretty boys and girls." Bizarrely, he was named by PKB as their choice of a possible candidate in the 2014 presidential-vice presidential elections.

Verdict: I bulkier bazaar

Verdict: Ha! Kind nasal

Verdict: Flaky usual


CULTURE

Tess Joyce's poems were recently published in poetry magazines Orbis, The Journal, Tears in the Fence, Obsessed with Pipework and in online magazines Snakeskin, The Island Review, BlazeVOX, Ditch, Four and Twenty, Anatomy and Etymology and Phantom Kangaroo. She is a writer from the UK but currently lives with her husband in Indonesia.

Now it’s my turn to discover what all the fuss is about — and I see it immediately — it’s his smile. I am flooded with happiness. We sit down for a while and Ketut is laughing and then he shows me his ceremonial bell. Before I know it, a mantra is bursting out of his mouth and I close my eyes; it is extraordinarily beautiful. I didn’t ask a single question. This interview was certainly different.

©Eat Pray Love (2010)

EAT, PRAY, SMILE “Ketut Liyer? You mean Ketut Liar?” is apparently a commonly repeated joke in Bali, although I did meet a couple of Ubud residents who were concerned that this healer from Elizabeth Gilbert’s Eat, Pray, Love was ripping off Western tourists. But competition between healers in Bali (specifically Ubud) is rife and reputations are always being tarnished. Healing is big business. The internet is full of concerns about healers and ‘boundaries’ that are being crossed or that certain Balians just aren’t genuine.

Yet others were quick to defend him, and Ketut’s own son announced that Ketut can receive around one thousand guests for a large ceremony such as Sarasvati Day. You don’t become a real Balian Usada (a Balinese traditional healer) without extensive training and dedication — this is because it is believed that their god-given powers may decide to abandon the impure and there are many rules about how to maintain such purity. So was Ketut Liyer genuine? I was lucky to discover a golden nugget at Ubud’s Pondok Pekak Library & Learning Centre — a real-life account of this Balian Usada, Ketut Liyer. On a dusty shelf was a hand-written document by Samantha Eir Camera-Smith (one of Pondok Pekak’s students), written in 1993, thirteen years before Elizabeth Gilbert’s cult classic was published. At this point I should probably explain that Gilbert’s story was a memoir based on her experiences of recovering from a divorce by experiencing pleasure (eating) in Italy, being devoted (praying) in India and finding love in Bali where she was on a quest to find a balance between worldly pleasure and spiritual devotion under the guidance of Ketut Liyer.

Ketut Liyer Opening a Lontar

The 2010 film of the same name starred Julia Roberts and James Franco and it was produced by Brad Pitt. Ketut, in the film, was played by an actor, but in real life Ketut invited Elizabeth to study with him and she taught him English. Elizabeth was unable to ascertain Ketut’s age, although she did discover that he was born on “a Thursday.” The medical student Samantha Eir CameraSmith got somewhat closer, believing that he was seventy-four at the time of her study — meaning that he is ninety-five years old this year.

“The mysticism found within the spiritual, magical aspects of Balinese healing has attracted many Westerners to the home of Ketut Liyer,” Samantha continued. A Balian believes that sickness is caused by an unbalanced situation and the first Balian Usada, Budha Kocapi, was bestowed with knowledge by the goddess Sarasvati. These wisdoms were disseminated on lontars (manuscripts made from palm leaves, written in Balinese Sanskrit) and Sarasvati must be prayed to daily. “If I do not pray to her three times a day, or if I misuse my powers, she will revoke my knowledge of the lontars,” Ketut told Samantha. As the ninth generation of healers, Ketut had an extensive library and “over fifty different lontars.”

Ketut is a man who, according to Elizabeth, “has never been off the island of Bali in his life. He has spent very little time, actually, off his porch.” And you might remember Ketut’s answer when Elizabeth asked if he would like to visit her in America, after he resignedly shakes his head, “Don’t have enough teeth to travel on airplane.” And Ketut gave me time — his most precious resource. Dentists get paid for their time; doctors get paid for their time too. I do not understand why donating to healers should be a problem. In fact, as Ketut shared his stories, the tour guide who had brought the two Korean girls kept looking at me with rolling hints of ‘come on Ms. Julia Roberts’ and I felt guilty for taking up everyone’s time. But each time I excused myself, Ketut would excitedly say, “Wait a moment,” as he read through one of the fragile lontars. The first spell was about curing someone of cetik (poison) which may

"Now it’s my turn to discover what all the fuss is about — and I see it immediately — it’s his smile. I am flooded with happiness." Ketut usually performed cleansing ceremonies, palm reading, creating magic paintings and performing love magic. Believing that everyone possessed a natural beauty, Ketut explained that all he did to perform love magic was to turn the energy on, “So that it becomes visible to other people.” He even received letters from people who had gotten married because of successful ‘love magic’. But I am naturally dubious. I’ve seen Eat, Pray, Love and I’ve read the book, yet still I couldn’t shake off my snobbish preconceptions. So I decided to meet him. In the waiting room is a glum tourist from Düsseldorf. She’s been here since eight in the morning. I try to prise some more information out of her but I can’t. She’s an impenetrable stone and giving up, I look at the fish pond for a while. Two Korean tourists are glided inside by a tour guide who seems a little too familiar with the scene. Finally, the German lady is called up for a palm reading and I’m surprised — I hear laughter. This skill alone impresses me.

give a person homicidal urges — the best cure was burnt cow manure wiped on the feet — although I may not have understood that correctly. Please don’t try it at home. Even Ketut’s son was sacrificing his time for others as he gently rocked a peaceful baby, whose mother and father were busy studying and working. Later, his son explained that Ketut must cleanse himself every morning by repeating up to 2,000 mantras. He worked hard for his happiness and maintaining this ‘balance’. “The energy he exerts working twelve hours a day, treating people still at the age of ninety-five never ceases to amaze me. The respect I hold for him is very quickly overriding my initial scepticism,” says Samantha. I cannot disagree, although I’m not advocating that thousands of tourists flock to Ubud for some healing. The thing I respected most about Ketut was his dedication; he only expected things from himself, not others. He worked hard to do one of those rare things; to give the world a smile and actually know its value.

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BUSINESS PROFILE

co-founder of qraved.com

ADRIAN LI By Angela Richardson

Adrian, where are you originally from? Tell us about your background. I was born in London but my parents are from Hong Kong and Malaysia. I started boarding school in the UK at the age of 10, so I grew up spending time between the UK and Southeast Asia. Prior to starting my degree at Cambridge University, I also spent a year in Beijing to study Mandarin. After University I joined JPMorgan in their corporate finance group in London before going to the US to complete my MBA at the Stanford Graduate School of Business. While at Stanford, I developed the idea for my first company, Idapted, an online education venture. After raising two rounds of funding and growing the business, Idapted was acquired in 2010. Six months later, I joined Rocket Internet to start a market place for travel accommodation in China and then an office supplies eCommerce firm in Indonesia. I came to Indonesia because of the huge opportunities for Internet media and technology ventures and also because my wife, Vanessa Hendriadi, is from Indonesia. I am currently a co-founder at Qraved.com, a restaurant discovery and reservations service for Jakarta, and a Managing Partner at Imaginato, a web and mobile eCommerce technology development company based in China. How long did it take to get the idea of Qraved.com off the ground? What challenges did you face? Qraved initially launched in beta in September of 2012. It took us just three months to build the initial product and a core team. Unlike some other start-ups we did not face a technology development bottleneck because we used our development company, Imaginato, to immediately access an experienced and skilled engineering team to build the product. We learnt a lot in the first two months in beta about our product; what consumers look for and how we can help bring more diners to restaurants, which we used to maximise our launch product. We launched our full service in November 2013 and have had incredible growth since then — especially last month in February where we crossed the 10,000 diners booked

In this edition of Indonesia Expat’s Business Profile, we meet a young gentleman named Adrian Li. Adrian is an Internet entrepreneur and cofounder of Qraved.com, a website which allows diners to make instant reservations and find offers at hip and trendy restaurants in Jakarta. His portfolio of experience covers eCommerce, media, search listings, and product-based ventures. We delve a little deeper into Adrian’s business ethics and background to find out what makes him tick.

milestone as well as over one million monthly views. Tell us a bit about what your website has to offer to its users. Qraved helps diners find restaurants in Jakarta with less time, hassle and in many cases, with less money. Qraved’s restaurant partners use our electronic reservation book technology to instantly confirm bookings, helping our users avoid Jakarta’s inevitable cell phone blackspots, but also enabling them to make bookings any time of day or night. The restaurants can also use this technology to offer time-specific and exclusive offers to diners — especially at off peak times when the restaurant may have a few more empty tables. Do you have plans to expand the site to other cities around Indonesia? Our service is focused on Jakarta at present, however we do expect to expand to Bali later in the year and the rest of the Southeast Asia region next year. Meanwhile, Jakartans and visitors to Jakarta can look forward to the first ever Restaurant Festival called EAT Jakarta, between April 21st and May 18th. During this event over 100 restaurants will be featuring specially priced set menus showcasing their best dishes (www. eatjakarta.org). How many are in your team and what do you look for when hiring new staff members? We are a small and hard-working team of 25 at Qraved; however, we are always looking for great talent to join us. When screening for new team members we look for people who share our vision, values and passion for the industry. We also prize attitude — hard working, team players above skill because we are willing to invest and train the right people with the skills to succeed in their positions. Where does Qraved.com stand in the Alexa ratings? In Alexa we are in the top 1,000 rankings in Indonesia, however we typically measure our performance on Similarweb.com, where we are #14 in the food and drink

BUSINESS SNIPPET

indonesia’s 2014 election

What to Expect for Business By Global Business Guide Indonesia

Already among the most bullish consumers in the world, Indonesians heading into 2014 look set to amplify consumer confidence in anticipation of the upcoming legislative and presidential election. This reaction is neither unheralded nor unexpected; previous elections in 2004 and 2009 were also characterised by rising consumer confidence. In the case of 2009, this confidence coupled with the inflow of campaign spending into the economy to result in markedly higher private consumption. As the 2014 election season kicks into a higher gear, companies and 16

indonesia expat issue 114

Consumer Confidence Index (Q3 2013 – Q4 2013) 1 0 2 1 0 4 1 0 6 1 0 8 11 0 11 2 11 4 11 6 11 8 July

108.4

August September

107.8 107.1

October November December

Source: Bank Indonesia

109.5 114.3 116.5

investors must take stock of what electionfuelled optimism means for the business environment in Indonesia, as well as identify the sectors most likely to be directly affected by a campaign process set to run well into September.

edging closer towards an all-time high of 120.4 set in November 2004 at 116.5, having suffered a substantial dip earlier in the year attributed to a growing current account deficit, rising inflation and a weakened currency.

Confidence Soaring A recent report by Nielsen found that Indonesian consumer confidence at the close of 2013 reached its highest point in four years. Indonesia’s consumer confidence index rose four points to 124 between Q3 and Q4; the highest score amongst the 60 countries surveyed and indicative of an acceleration of the country’s natural consumer trend towards a 'spend-first' mindset. Bank Indonesia’s measure tells a similar story, with consumer confidence

With consumer confidence soaring and over $3 billion USD in campaign spending expected to flood into the economy, it is anticipated that several industries in the retail sector will benefit from the 2014 election. Businesses in the FMCG industry that offer products which have become essential purchase items for Indonesia’s lower and lower-middle classes should in particular experience an uptick in sales attributed to a widespread increase in willingness to spend.


You are an endurance athlete in your spare time. Tell us how you got into this sport? When I started working at JPMorgan, I found that I no longer had the time to compete in the team sports I used to do and within a year I had ballooned, gaining over 20% in body weight. That is when I made my first foray into endurance sports by signing up for the London marathon through a charity where I completed and raised over £3,000, and since then have completed six marathons around the world. Then, while I was studying for my MBA, I heard about the Ironman from a classmate. An Ironman is the

"I think the keys to success are to have clear and focused goals, partner with talented people and hard work." category of all websites in Indonesia. Also, when we released our mobile apps, our iOS app shot to the top five and maintained this position for almost three weeks. Installing our app gives users instant access to all the information they would need on over 2,000 restaurant venues in Jakarta. You can download the apps for Android and iOS at http://www.qraved.com/qraved-mobileapps. With your expertise as an Internet entrepreneur, what do you foresee happening in Indonesia over the next few years with regards to the Internet? One of the reasons I really wanted to come to Indonesia was because I could see many parallels on how the Internet developed in China from 2005-2011 and how it is developing now in Indonesia. The only difference I think is that what took six years in China will take half that time in Indonesia due to the speed of adoption and penetration of mobile Internet here. Fortunately, with the experience I gained from building Internet ventures in China, I have the benefit of hindsight in making decisions on how we execute and build the business, thus saving us time and money. I absolutely believe that Indonesia will be a massive market for Internet services and I think the tipping point for this is around two years away.

longest distance of triathlon involving a 3.9km swim, 180km bike ride and a full marathon (42km) run. After a series of mishaps (I trained in 2005 for nine months but broke my wrist in a training ride three weeks before the UK Ironman), I had the opportunity to prepare for an Ironman event last year. I finally completed my first Ironman last year in Australia, finishing in a time of 13 hours and 2 minutes. What do you believe is the key to success? I think the keys to success are to have clear and focused goals, partner with talented people and hard work. Whether it is in my professional or personal life I make a point of setting up clear, measurable goals. I also believe that having the right team and support is critical to achieving success — there is only a limited amount that can be achieved as an individual but skills, capacity and dreams can be magnified by the right team. Lastly, I believe that hard work is a key ingredient to overcoming any challenge worth doing.

To contact Adrian, please email: adrian@ qraved.com

More at http://www.gbgindonesia.com Gains from Campaigns Without taking consumer confidence into consideration, a number of industries stand to benefit directly from election related spending. The advertising industry is set to profit from the many political campaign ads commissioned by candidates vying for nearly 20,000 seats at the district, provincial and national level. Though traditional avenues of advertising remain popular, social media campaigns in particular will play a crucial role in influencing voter behaviour as the primary means for public discourse on the topic of politics. Responding to the country’s growing reputation as a social media capital of the world and in an attempt to appeal to the population’s subset of 67 million first time voters, candidates have sought to

establish a greater online presence. There is thus considerable scope for the entry of firms well versed in digital branding and tech driven marketing into a field of the Indonesian advertising industry poised for rapid growth in 2014. Other business areas to be boosted by the 2014 election include the hospitality industry, which will benefit from an influx of short stay hotel guests on the campaign trail as well as rising demand for MICE (Meeting, Incentive travel, Convention/ Conference and Event/Exhibition) services. Reports from Indonesia’s Hotel and Restaurant Association (PHRI) suggest that hotels in parts of Indonesia could see increases of up to 25% in average income from MICE operations. issue 114 indonesia expat

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PROPERTY WATCH

Jakarta Rental Property Market

Colliers has an extensive database of houses and apartments and we are at your service to help you find your ideal home in Jakarta.

By Marilyn Ardipradja

©Kuningan City

©d'Vista Bintaro

©Ciputra World Jakarta

©Ciputra World Jakarta

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indonesia expat issue 114

Indonesia continues to maintain the interest of international investors due to its large population and thus potentially large consumer market. Several very large infrastructure projects are in the planning stages or have recently started up. Combined with rapid growth in multiple sectors, this has created the need for additional expatriate staff and management personnel which eventually affects the housing market. Some reports indicate a decrease in the number of incoming expatriates in middle and lower management positions due to the fact that working permits for these levels are being restricted. Multinational corporations, however, continue to operate, expand or establish their companies in Indonesia and therefore require expatriates in many higher management positions. It is not surprising that the stimulated economy has resulted in price increases and this is particularly noticeable in the Jakarta residential rental property market. An influx of foreigners seeking suitable residences has been a factor in causing rents to climb higher over the past year. Although there is still no shortage of housing, prime properties that fulfil all or many of the multinational companies’ security requirements, such as being in a gated community or in close proximity to an international school, are definitely increasing in price and are becoming more difficult to find. South Jakarta continues to be the most popular choice for expatriate families because of the shorter commute time to most of the international schools. Due to the increase in demand for houses that meet these standards, landlords who were previously asking for rental payments one year in advance are now able to request a minimum of two to three years in advance. Landlords are seldom willing to negotiate a one year lease on a house. Rental prices in general have increased substantially with at least a 20% increase, and in some cases 30% or more. These drastic increases come as a shock to many tenants who are forced to rent smaller, older properties or those not in a prime location. Although multinational companies typically plan for rent increases from year to year, few are prepared or willing to accommodate rent increases of this scale and are unwilling to revise their employees’ living allowances. As almost all rents are quoted in US dollars, a huge additional strain has been put on housing budgets due to the increase of the US dollar against the Rupiah.

As land prices in Jakarta increase, landlords are demanding a better return on their investment. They are currently enjoying high market demand and therefore are able to dictate the pricing for their properties. Housing in prime locations will seldom be empty more than a month before a new tenant moves in. Rental rates for apartments are more stable, in particular if they are part of an international chain as they rely on corporate pricing usually dictated by overseas headquarters. Typically, apartment rentals will undergo a 10% – 12% yearly increase. Because of this predicted increase, apartment leases are normally for only one year so this increase can be incorporated. However, service fees can vary greatly from building to building depending on the extent of surrounding grounds and what kinds of facilities are provided. Apartment rentals are typically subject to 10% VAT and 11% service charge. A number of apartment buildings have given notice that as of January 1st 2014, their service charge will increase to 13.5%. This will inflate rental rates even higher in the upcoming year. In spite of the fact that there will be several new apartment buildings being completed in 2014, apartment owners and management remain very optimistic that they will be able to maintain their pricing and keep their occupancy rates very high. The supply of stand-alone housing however, is not keeping up with demand, therefore it is highly unlikely that rents will be decreasing in the foreseeable future. As long as Indonesia continues to experience rapid growth and still requires the assistance of expatriates, Jakarta landlords will be in a strong position to dictate rental prices. With the ongoing increase in rental prices, finding your home in Jakarta has become increasingly challenging. If you are given the option by your company of selecting your own home in Jakarta, you may first wish to become familiar with the various residential areas. It is important in all cases to take into account the traffic problem in Jakarta, and the time you will spend commuting between work, school, activities, friends and home. These are a few of the most popular areas: Kemang (South Jakarta) Kemang is one of Jakarta’s most desirable residential areas with a nice variety of stores well stocked with Western and Asian food items. New restaurants, boutiques and home furnishing shops are sprouting up every day and flourishing. Kemang is also close to several clubs and organizations, cultural centres and sports facilities.

Pondok Indah (South Jakarta) This area is slightly newer, with streets, homes and shopping areas which would appeal to those who prefer a more Western style home. Homes here range from the more modest to the particularly grand. Pondok Indah is blessed with elegant, treelined streets and sidewalks. Cipete / Cilandak (South Jakarta) This area, located between Kemang and Pondok Indah, boasts the same advantages as the former in terms of location, but is decidedly more local in flavour. There are many beautiful homes, some of which have relatively large gardens. The streets are relatively quiet and retain their Indonesian character. Menteng (Central Jakarta) Menteng is a very special area to Jakartans, set apart from other areas by its history. Menteng can be described as old, elegant and aristocratic. Here you will find many of the original stately Dutch homes, and what is left of any colonial architecture or character. This neighbourhood is noted for its embassies and ambassadors’ residences, and is home to many Indonesian government officials. Kebayoran Baru (South Jakarta) Much the same as Menteng, this area consists of many beautiful homes and landscaped areas. It is also popular with many government officials. Kebayoran Baru encompasses the busy Blok M and Panglima Polim shopping areas. Kuningan (Central Jakarta) Kuningan can best be described as a residential area within the business district. There are attractive new apartment complexes here, as well as the older Pertamina Oil Village housing development, with its American style streets and sidewalks. Kuningan has a metropolitan atmosphere, and is close to shopping centres, restaurants, hotels, office buildings and medical facilities. Permata Hijau / Simpruk (South Jakarta) This area, very close to the large Senayan Sports Stadium and the very elegant and chic Plaza Senayan and Senayan City malls, has a wide variety of homes and apartments. Here you will find wide, quiet streets and particularly good access to sports facilities. Bintaro (South Jakarta) Bintaro is an area on the southwest outskirts of Jakarta, comprising newer, middle class housing developments and private homes. Because it is a newer residential area, there are few amenities aside from a shopping plaza and basic supermarkets.


issue 114 indonesia expat

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SPORTS

BuGils FC Soccer Sixes Jasper Bouman comes from Arnhem, in the Netherlands, and has been in Indonesia since 1997. He is in bar restaurant management and spends his free time on the football pitch with FC BuGils as player-coach. He has been involved in the organization of various sports events such as football tournaments, sailing regattas and cross country athletics races.

By Jasper Bouman

Established in 2002, BuGils FC is one of the 10 teams in the JIFL and the team originates from the once famous and now closed expat hangout, BuGils in Taman Ria Senayan, and is now based at Eastern Promise Pub and Restaurant in Kemang.

Inspired by the FC Knudde Sixes tournament that ceased to exist many years ago, the friendly family titled BuGils FC found that Jakarta had been without a yearly six-a-side tournament for too long. Four volunteers rolled up their sleeves et voila, on Saturday 3 May 2014 the already second edition of the BuGils FC Soccer Sixes will take place.

The team lives up to its roots as a pub teamweek in and week out, and tactics are normally discussed over beers until the late hours of the night before a game. It must be said that FC BuGils is not the most successful team in the league but as said, all players stand their own in the third half in the pub.

After last year’s great success, it did not take long to fill up the 20 spots for this second ‘soccer party’ and with generous support from many sponsors, around 200 expatriate players from in and outside of Indonesia will meet up for all-day soccer playing at the grounds of ISCI (International Sports Club of Indonesia) in South Jakarta.

Noteworthy BuGils FC facts: • Players are normally recruited in the bar and sign ‘contracts’ on beer coasters • The current squad of 25 or so regular players consists of 12 nationalities! • Having such a large squad, Frequent BuGils vs. BuGils matches are organized to up the number of wins • The team was established in 2002 and forgot to celebrate its tenth anniversary in 2012, so did it a year later in 2013 • Some years ago, the two oldest players, both fullbacks, had at the time over 100 years of football experience between them • One player insists that watching football instruction videos on YouTube qualifies as training! • Some illustrious team members listen to names like Eddy the Eagle, Marc the Blade, Willy von Blisterboy and Fake Rod

Opening up this year’s tournament to teams from outside of Indonesia makes the competition an excellent opportunity for many to compete, as well as to strengthen the ties among the soccer community in Southeast Asia. Teams compete in six to eight twelve-minute matches and after a group stage, the teams advance to separate plate, bowl and cup competitions. Finals are played late in the afternoon. Jakarta International Football League (JIFL) icon Dale Mulholland is putting on a free Super Skills clinic for kids, and with many other children activities organized, and all of ISCI’s facilities open to players and supporters, the tournament offers a great mix of competition, friendship and quality family time.

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indonesia expat issue 114

The team’s social spirit also dominates the character of the tournament with a bar and terrace right on the pitch’s centre spot! Overseas teams are given a treat of Jakarta’s nightlife through a chartered Kopaja pub-crawl and a tournament after-party in Eastern Promise. The Kopaja tour should give the overseas participants something to talk about, and if the second edition of the tournament is as much fun as the first one, then next year the committee aims at getting even more overseas teams than the five that have already registered for 2014.

BuGils FC Soccer Sixes Saturday May 3rd 2014 9am – 5pm ISCI Sportsclub Jakarta (free entrance for the whole family with access to all sports facilities; squash, tennis, swimming pool, gym, etc.) For more information, please visit www.jkt-soccersixes.com or e-mail info@jkt-soccersixes.com


©krisromaniuk.com

Kenneth Yeung is a Jakarta-based editor

IN ENGLISH ONLY By Kenneth Yeung

I first experienced an Indonesian election in May 1997. I was staggering home drunk from Blok M, South Jakarta, at about 3am when I encountered a newly erected polling station and knocked part of it down. It was a small, stupid act of rebellion against a rigged election. Only three parties were allowed to contest such elections: Golkar, which always won; the United Development Party (PPP), which represented Islam; and the Indonesian Democratic Party (PDI). Founding president Sukarno’s daughter Megawati Sukarnoputri had been removed as PDI leader in 1996 because she was viewed as a threat to long-serving president Suharto. This made her a hero. I had a Megawati t-shirt, which I was advised to never wear publicly. During the campaign period, each party held meaningless, noisy street rallies. The Suharto regime called these ridiculous motorcades “festivals of democracy”. People were forced to vote for Golkar. I recall final year high school students being told their graduation depended on it, and a military widow being warned there would be no more pension if she did not choose Golkar. Election day was not a public holiday. Indonesian colleagues said they were encouraged to vote for Golkar twice: first in a polling station near home and then near the office. Back then, the ballot sheet was simple, comprising a yellow star on green (PPP), a banyan tree on yellow (Golkar), and a black bull’s head on red (PDI). All the voter had to do was use a nail to make a hole in one of the three symbols. Protesting voters put a hole in all three symbols — but vote counters could tally these for Golkar by using their fingers to cover the holes in the rival symbols. The euphoria that followed the downfall of Suharto in May 1998 was incredible. There were great expectations for Indonesia’s first democratic election in over four decades, which took place in June 1999, contested by 48 parties. In those days, I spent nearly every night boozing in Blok M. Early one morning in Lintas Melawai nightclub, a security guard asked me to help him enlist some pretty bar girls for a rally of Megawati’s Indonesian Democratic Party of Struggle (PDIP). I spent the rest of the day with a bunch of women on top of a large van being driven all around Jakarta. We all wore PDIP t-shirts and I was waving a massive

PDIP flag. Reformasi was the chant of the day. PDIP won the election, although Megawati had to settle for the vice presidency until parliament kicked wily Muslim cleric Gus Dur out of office in 2001. Mega and PDIP turned out to be a huge disappointment. It also says a lot about Indonesian democracy that Golkar was not obliterated, but instead remains a potent political force to this day. Democracy simply meant that instead of Golkar and the military controlling the pie, every opportunist could try to grab a slice. When the General Elections Commission (KPU) was formed to conduct the 1999 election, one of its decisions was to produce 1.2 million flags for the campaign period. Only 240,000 flags were produced, while about Rp.5 billion allocated for the rest of the flags was instead divided among representatives of each competing party. Corruption flourishes equally well under dictatorship or democracy. The KPU went on to have much bigger scandals. The Constitutional Court, established partly to adjudicate disputed election results, has also been beset by corruption. The Indonesian political scene remains one big scam, whereby people spend money to get elected and then spend much of their time in office enriching themselves, their families and their business associates. For a while, it seemed as if the political elite would in 2014 continue to steal democracy from the people. But now that Joko Widodo is running for the presidency on PDIP’s ticket, there is room for optimism. As usual, people will be paid to attend rallies. There will likely be dead people and duplicate names on electoral rolls. Many people will not be properly registered to vote. Some polling stations won’t have enough ballots. Losing parties and presidential candidates will claim this is evidence of foul play — yet it’s usually just incompetent management, which puts all candidates in the same boat. After 10 years in opposition, PDIP will return to power this year, unless the Constitutional Court can be persuaded to decide otherwise, and Jokowi will become Indonesia’s seventh president. That should be reason to celebrate with a drink.

FIRST TIME IN JAKARTA!

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Meditation Made Simple™ is completely non-religious. The benefits of meditation practice include happiness, a calm mind, stress-free living, regulated blood pressure, stable emotions, control of anger and freedom from anxiety. Improved focus and concentration as a result of meditation create a stronger immune system. This leads to better health, complete relaxation of the nervous system and improved flow of life energy in the body.

Testimonial I just wanted to say thank you for your meditation class. I actually think that it has been life-changing for me. I am generally much happier now & focus on the positives in life which has lead to a different approach to work, more work-life balance and no more sleepless nights. The techniques are so simple and yet they really work. Thank you! -Liz Fendt

Contact Us

Adimas (Danny) S. Soeryadjaya E-mail: soulcentreindonesia@yahoo.com

SoulCentre Jakarta is an official licensee of SoulCentre Pte Ltd | www.soulcentre.org issue 114 indonesia expat

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CONSERVATION

British-born Polly Christensen is a documentary film maker, features writer and environmentalist. She can be contacted at www.madefromstardust.com

©Aulia Erlangga

Butet Manurung

Film still 'Sokola Rimba'

©Aulia Erlangga

Riri Riza & Sokola Rimba

opportunities for their young generation. Her organization has placed 18 volunteers so far. Two million people all over Indonesia are living with the same challenges facing Orang Rimba. With more SOKOLA ‘study and exposure trips’, indigenous youth now have a real opportunity for their voices to be heard in government forums.

Python for dinner

The Jungle School By Polly Christensen

Butet Manurung is widely known in both Indonesia and on the international arena for her SOKOLA initiative, otherwise known as the Jungle School. The Indonesian educator and activist won prestigious awards from UNESCO, TIME Magazine and the World Economic Forum for her community work. I caught up with Butet, in between her travels, to ask about the new film release, Sokola Rimba, which is based upon her journal notebook. As a child, Indiana Jones and the Famous Five inspired Butet. She developed a love of the outdoors, whilst earning her degrees in anthropology and Indonesian literature from Padjadjaran University, Bandung. In 1999, Butet joined the conservation NGO, WARSI, to lead their educational program for the Orang Rimba (the People of the Forest). They are an Indigenous tribal community, living deep within the Bukit Dua Belas jungle of Jambi, Sumatra. “I took a dream job, which involved entering the forest, to set up an education program with a remote tribe of hunter-gatherers, as part of a conservation organisation’s strategy to work with local communities,” recalled Butet. “In 2003, after four years of intensive work with forest communities, my work in the jungle evolved into co-founding SOKOLA, a non-profit organisation providing educational opportunities for more than 10,000 marginalized people.” When the children took extra interest in Butet, she looked for opportunities to teach them to read and count. As a highly independent people, their life was very

sustainable, until the modern world came along. Critical education was offered in order to assess and discuss whether some of their tradition might not be working for their daily lives anymore. They also needed to assess what parts of modern life were harmful. These community discussions occurred regularly. “Based on my own experience, teaching in the forests of Sumatra, I have developed a completely new method that allows people from pre-literate societies to quickly learn to read and write Indonesian,” explained Butet. “As indigenous peoples, they are very special. Compared to other indigenous peoples, they are one of the most stubborn, and not easily bought by the modern world. I love them. They show me lessons in life, and they are my heroes, who feed me, teach me survival and how to protect myself from danger in the jungle.” In order to teach the Orang Rimba how to recognize their rights as Indonesian citizens, Butet worked hard to earn the trust of the people by learning to speak the local dialects and immersing herself within the tribal lifestyle. She encouraged her students to take on challenges and defend their rights. In her book Sokola Rimba, Butet shares the journal she kept during her first year in the jungle. She tells of her adventures with stinging bees, prowling bears, and biting ants. She also describes how her relationship with the Orang Rimba developed as she slowly transformed from an outsider into a teacher within the community. “The book explains how nomadic tribes are living today in the rainforests of Sumatra

as hunter-gatherers,” said Butet. “The outside world has arrived on their doorstep, bringing challenges such as illegal loggers and palm oil plantations.” Across Indonesia, indigenous peoples can no longer avoid contact with the outside world. Although they are often at the centre of conflicts over land, forests, and coastlines, they rarely engage in problem solving. By giving indigenous youth access to education, Butet is preparing the next generation to become a bridge between their communities and outside interference. “Many of the government programs are designed very well and with good intentions,” Butet explained. “But without sufficient community knowledge and active participation, many of them result in failure and typically indigenous peoples are then blamed, and labelled as hopeless, wild, or impossible.” Indigenous peoples tend to evoke two strong opposing viewpoints. Because they live in fragile ecosystems they are alternately viewed as its best defenders and worst enemies - as rightful inhabitants and dangerous encroachers. In Indonesia, the paradox extends into a moral realm. To some, indigenous peoples are symbols of pristine nature, cultural diversity, and simple living. To others they represent poverty, backwardness and an obstruction to progress. Over the past 15 years, Butet has identified 700 communities nationwide that are facing pressure to change, yet have no educational

Dua Tangan Cukup

Positive actions from across the archipelago Ffrash is a recently introduced interior design brand, with a social and sustainable character. Ffrash produces highquality sustainable design furniture and home interior products from Indonesian trash. The products are designed on a pro bono basis by internationally renowned Dutch designers and created by former Indonesian street children from the ages of 17 to 19. The 2013–2014 Ffrash collection comprises of clocks and side tables made from old plastic bottle caps. Vases and candlelight holders are made from old wine bottles, pillows from plastic bottles, and leftover jeans material from jeans manufacturers.

SOKOLA has made use of the considerable media interest to help a wider public learn about these remote communities and to enable the youth themselves to voice their ideas and aspirations. The ‘Jungle School’ book has recently been adapted into a feature film by two award-winning Indonesian filmmakers. “The film is a collective of dynamic producer-director duo, Mira Lesmana and Riri Riza. It‘s a great opportunity to support aspects of indigenous peoples, environment and education,” explains Butet. “Sokola Rimba film received the Piala Maya Award for Best Film of 2013. The DVD is released during May, and this year it will be shown in Australia as part of an Indonesian Film Festival, and it will be shown at an Environmental Film festival in Washington DC.” Readers can volunteer at SOKOLA programmes in the four provinces of Jambi, Flores, South Sulawesi, and Papua. In each region, at least one coordinator from the SOKOLA team lives together with volunteers who are ‘recruited and trained locally’ as well as those from a national network. The schools are run using local dialects. In the coming months, Butet will expand her work to indigenous communities in Kalimantan, in collaboration with a locally based company. Volunteers should have some field skills, a love for humanity (especially children), educator characteristics, tenacity in the field, and they must accept risks, such as malaria.

For more information contact Butet Manurung: rumasokola@yahoo.com

Ffrash has recently started selling their products in Indonesia. The proceeds benefit the further development of the Ffrash young adults’ production and training. Remaining revenues will be put aside to finance the start-up costs of their own enterprise in the near future. The higher the sales, the more that will be saved for the Ffrash artisans’ future plans and the more street children will be able to join the project. Ffrash works closely with their local partner KDM (Kampus Diakonea Modern), an organisation offering shelter to street children. For more information about Ffrash, please visit www.ffrash.com.

What’s your Dua Tangan Cukup Action? Send them to cleanupjktday@indonesiaexpat.biz and we’ll share them here to inspire others! 22

indonesia expat issue 114


* Answers in the next edition!

LIGHT ENTERTAINMENT

FOR THE MACET MIND

HONESTY IS THE BEST POLICY By Eamonn Sadler (www.eamonnsadler.com)

The British Fire Service uses an excellent and unique shift system to provide the British public with emergency cover 24 hours a day. Each of four watches, always code-named Red, Blue, Green and White, works two nine-hour days followed by two 15-hour nights. The day shift starts at 9am and finishes at 6pm, and the night shift starts at 6pm and finishes at 9am. Obviously firefighters can’t have the same days off as everyone else for national holidays etc., so if your shift falls on a holiday you are owed one day off in lieu, which you can take whenever you like, provided there are enough firefighters remaining on duty to provide the minimum required cover. If you want to take a day off in lieu but there aren’t enough firefighters to provide minimum cover without you, you can ask a firefighter from another watch to “stand in” for you, meaning he or she works your shift for you, providing he or she has equal or higher qualifications. Then you pay back the day later by standing in for him or her in return. You will notice that I always say “firefighter” and “he or she”. When I was in the fire service I was called a “fireman” because there were no “firewomen”, but today there are many women in the job and they are every bit as capable as the men. You won’t catch me with my PC trousers down.

response to my grunt. “I’m hungover to f *** actually,” I said impatiently. “Who is this?” There was a calendar hanging on the wall next to the phone and when I saw the day’s date, a bell began to ring in my head. It quickly got louder then I snapped to full alert. Oh sh*t! “This is Station Officer Taylor Eamonn, White Watch. Aren’t you supposed to be somewhere this morning?” This was the worst possible offence. I had forgotten all about paying Blagger back for the day he stood in for me. I was in big trouble. Thirty seconds later I was in my battered old Ford Capri racing down the M40 towards Oxford, desperately trying to come up with a plausible excuse. Fortunately, the traffic was light because it was Saturday morning, so I was on the station by 10.30. To my relief, Station Officer ‘Tinker’ Taylor (obviously) had arranged for Dave ‘Randy’ Radcliffe (don’t ask) from the previous night’s crew to stay back and cover for me so the crew wasn’t short. When I arrived, he called me straight to his office. He was sitting bolt upright behind his desk with his uniform cap on. Not a good sign. I stood at attention before him.

"What happened, Fireman Sadler? Why have you been absent without leave for the last 92 minutes?"

In the winter of 1987, I was on Blue Watch and I needed a day off, so I asked Rick ‘Blagger’ Bewley from White Watch if he would stand in for me (his nickname was Blagger because he could talk his way in to or out of anything). He was happy to agree because he needed a day off in a couple of months so that he could attend a wedding. We agreed the deal and got it approved by our station commander; Blagger would stand in for me the next day and I would pay him back later. Everyone was happy.

One Saturday morning two months later, I was woken up at about 9.30am by the phone ringing. I didn’t take much notice because I was in London staying at a friend’s place after a very serious party the night before. I put the pillow over my head and tried to ignore the noise, but shortly after the ringing stopped the bedroom door burst open and my friend stood almost naked in the doorway, panting heavily from the run up the stairs. “You’d better take this call,” he said. “Sounds urgent.” I groaned out of bed and made my way down the stairs. The voice on the end was familiar but I couldn’t quite place it.

“What happened, Fireman Sadler? Why have you been absent without leave for the last (he glanced at his watch) 92 minutes?” I took a deep breath and began to lie about an unfortunate misunderstanding about dates, but before I finished the first sentence he took off his cap, leaned forward on his elbows and spoke in a hushed tone. “You know I don’t believe any of this crap, don’t you, Eamonn? I know you forgot about standing in today. Be honest with me now while I have my cap off and I’ll help you.”

Across

DOWN

1. Method (6)

1. Drowsy — without excitement (6)

4. Begin to develop (6)

2. English clergyman and Oxford don (1844 –

8. Kind of lyric ode (5)

1930), who had an "ism" named after him (7)

9. Aquatic salamander (7)

3. Fragrant resin (5)

10. The Pope (7)

5. (In Scotland) chief district councillor — college head (7)

11. Very fat (5)

6. Fresh, bracing sea air (5)

12. British merchant navy flag (3,6)

7. Cashier (6)

17. Fertile spot in desert (5)

9. Wealth (9)

19. Lack of due care and attention (7)

13. Aloof (7)

21. Secret (7)

14. Staggering (7)

22. Be mean with (5)

15. Force (6)

23. Distance (6)

16. Idiotic (6)

24. Pursued — unflagging (6)

18. Younger member of a family (5) 20. Vigorous enjoyment (5)

Answers for issue 113 ACROSS — 1. Vin ordinaire 9. Other 10. Canvass 11. Eire 12. Forswore 14. Hatred 15. Scarab 18. Wallowed 20. Turn 22. Sundown 23. Maize 24. Royal wedding DOWN — 2. Inherit 3. Ogre 4. Doctor 5. Nonesuch 6. Imago 7. Easter Bonnet 8. None the wiser 13. Aerofoil 16. Reunion 17. Séance 19. Lanky 21. Amid

spotted pic - send your funny pics to letters@indonesiaexpat.biz

I gave up the pretence, hoping for a lighter punishment. “Yes, Station. I’m sorry I forgot. We made the deal a couple of months ago and it slipped my mind. I apologise.” He nodded and put his cap back on. “OK, I am happy to approve your application for Fireman Radcliffe to cover you until 11am today so that you can visit your sick Grandmother. Make sure you submit it yesterday.” I did and Randy Radcliffe signed it too. Now I owed him a day as well — and I owed the Station Officer my job.

“Morning, Eamonn. How are you?” it said in

To read more by Eamonn Sadler, go to www.eamonnsadler.com to find out more about live Stand-Up Comedy in Indonesia please e-mail info@jakartacomedyclub.com text or call 0821 1194 3084 or register at www.jakartacomedyclub.com

WANT FREE TICKETS TO THE COMEDY CLUB? SMS YOUR NAMES FOR A CHANCE TO WIN 2 TICKETS TO JAKARTA OR BALI COMEDY CLUB! 0821 1194 3084 Congratulations to ADRIAN C. in BALI! You and a friend will be enjoying the next comedy cluB ON US!

'DISCOUND?' Spotted by Rodrigo Echeverri

IS MADE POSSIBLE BY: issue 114 indonesia expat

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ANNOUNCEMENTS

Safe Steps: For a Walkable Jakarta JAKARTA — A campaign journalism initiative by The Jakarta Globe for a safer and healthier pedestrians' life in Jakarta. Walking in Jakarta requires one to be extra careful. Aside from having to constantly look at the ground due to damaged, uneven and narrow sidewalks, we have to be aware of the risks of getting grazed by motor vehicles that ride on the sidewalks guilt-free. Not including narrow sidewalks that are also hindered by trees and poles. Moreover, the paths are dominated by street vendors, parking spots for motor vehicles and ojek drivers waiting for passengers. Sidewalks are meant for the safety and comfort of pedestrians, disabled people and strollers in order to avoid traffic accidents; an ironic statement in Jakarta.

So far, the total length of sidewalks in the capital is of only around 900 kilometres, against the 7,200 kilometres of the total city's road, meaning there are still many areas with no walkable paths. SafeSteps has been established to improve the infrastructure of sidewalks around town in order to reinforce a comfortable and safe walking experience for pedestrians. With more people willing to walk for a short distance, it can also lead to less congested roads around the city. Also to prioritize the rights of pedestrians by involving the government to emphasize on the ban of sidewalks being misused by motor vehicles and street vendors. SafeSteps hope to influence other parties and rightful departments to make changes around different areas in Jakarta. This movement also requires the public's support by voicing out their concerns regarding the safety of pedestrians. With a collective pressure, we hope that

quick and measured actions are taken to adopt accessible sidewalks in all of Jakarta, leading to a safer and healthier lifestyle. You can help by signing the petition at http://www. thejakartaglobe.com/safesteps/petition

Ascott Celebrates 30 Years of Hospitality Excellence JAKARTA — CapitaLand’s wholly-owned serviced residence unit, The Ascott Limited (Ascott), continues to extend its global footprint as it kicks off its 30th anniversary celebrations with special promotions for its customers that include discounted rates and free nights. Ascott, which pioneered Asia-Pacific’s first international-class serviced residence in 1984, has secured contracts to manage its first property in Myanmar, Somerset Kabar Aye Yangon, and its third property in Wuhan, Somerset Zhuankou Wuhan. In addition, Ascott has opened its first property in Frankfurt, Citadines City Centre Frankfurt, and will open Ascott Sentral Kuala Lumpur on 21 March 2014 and Ascott Midtown Suzhou in April 2014.

Mr. Lee Chee Koon, Ascott’s Chief Executive Officer, said: “As Ascott celebrates 30 years of successful business, we would like to thank all our customers for their unwavering support. In 2013 alone, we had over one million stays, of which a significant percentage was from repeat guests and we look forward to their continued support. To enable our guests to enjoy the comforts of home in more destinations, we plan to open 58 properties across 12 countries by 2018, of which about 20 properties are scheduled to open this year.” “At Ascott, we are committed to continuous innovation and going the extra mile to provide our customers the best experience.

Since our refurbishment programme started in 2010, we have invested close to S$100 million to renovate 20 properties. Ascott will spend another S$200 million to enhance 29 more properties by 2016.

The Hermitage will open in March 2014, Managed by Paris-based GLA Hotels

To celebrate Ascott’s 30th anniversary, we would like to reward our customers and continue to give back to the communities as we look forward to the next 30 years and more,” he added.

JAKARTA — Located in the historical district of Menteng, in central Jakarta, the upcoming hotel occupies a stunning Art Deco building from 1923 which was once a Dutch Telecommunications office, the ‘Telefoongebouw’. Over the course of several decades, the building served various functions from Indonesian Ministry of Education and Culture to being a University of Bung Karno.

90 sumptuous rooms and suites, of which 68 feature separate, fully-appointed living rooms, The Hermitage is a contemporary interpretation of 1920's heritage style. Standard amenities such as 40” flat screen HDTVs, media hubs, complimentary wired and wireless Internet and deluxe pillow-top mattresses grace each of the accommodations. Subtle colours and precious materials adorn each of the rooms and suites allowing for an unparalleled level of harmony, beauty and comfort.

The nine story hotel rising above quiet, tree-lined streets has been honoured with an affiliation to Leading Hotels of the World (LHW) and is the only hotel in the city with this prestigious endorsement. Formed in 1928, the company represents more than 430 of the world's finest

Overall, The Hermitage promises an intimate setting, devoted teams and bespoke service which lend themselves to providing a memorable experience for each guest. Serene and elegant yet true to its locale, The Hermitage affords a unique contrast between modernity and a bygone era.

hotels and resorts with over 68,000 rooms. Headquartered in New York City, the company maintains offices in 25 cities around the globe and will fully support the luxury hotel’s unique positioning, branding and marketing. With

Fatahillah Fiesta to Revitalize Old Town

Alila Hotels & Resorts to Launch New Bali Hotel BALI — The Alila Seminyak will be set on a previously undeveloped stretch of beach on Bali’s southwest coast, and will feature extensive tropical gardens, including what Alila calls a “labyrinth of vertical greens, leafy shrubs and blossoming plants”. The property will offer 240 rooms, ranging from 46–177m2, plus an 811m2 penthouse. There will be a series of rooftop pools hidden among roof gardens, while the resort will also operate a series of energy-saving solutions, including the use of low-energy light fixtures, rainwater harvesting and solar energy. Alila Seminyak will become the group’s fifth property in Bali and forms part of a pipeline of 20 new Alila properties that are scheduled to open over the next two years.

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indonesia expat issue 114

JAKARTA — Jakarta Old Town Revitalization Corporation (JOTRC) and the Jakarta Endowment for Art and Heritage (Jeforah) worked together to create Fatahillah Fiesta, a three day festival starting on March 13 2014 in efforts to revitalize the Kota area. Hundreds of people gathered in Fatahillah Square to enjoy festivities which marked the beginning of the revitalization project, including the opening of Jakarta Art Space, a new art gallery on the second floor of the Pos Indonesia building opposite the Jakarta History Museum. The festival also included a food festival. The city administration, with the help of art and heritage lovers, are trying to turn Kota Tua into a national attraction with art galleries, good food and shops. Governor Jokowi opened the festivities, stating that once the revitalization was complete, many tourists would visit Old Town.


AROUND THE WORLD

By Angela Richardson

Picture the scene. You on two wheels, handle bars to lead the way, free from the shackles of modern life with the wind blowing through your hair, not knowing where you’ll be sleeping every night, as you make your way across the world, one continent at a time, for a period of six years. This is Dr. Steve Fabes’ life and he’s four and a half years through this incredible journey that has so far taken him through five of the six continents of the world, cycling a staggering 60,100km through 47 countries. During his short visit in Jakarta, I caught up with this young doctor to find out more. “I’ve always been looking for an adventure and have always had a passion for travel,” Dr. Steve tells me. “I feel most alive when I’m in the wilderness and I was looking for a new challenge and a less complicated life. Everything’s simple on a bicycle – you just have to think about where you’re going to ride, where you’re going to camp, what you’re going to eat and that’s about it.” Cycling the Six was also an opportunity for the 33-year-old doctor to raise money for charity, so far having raised £20,000 for Merlin, an international health charity delivering medical expertise to the toughest places on the planet.

The journey has taken Dr. Steve from England, across Europe, through the Middle East, down the length of Africa, up from Argentina to Alaska, from Alaska to Australia, through Australia, and from East Timor to Jakarta. The next step is the homeward stretch, taking Steve through Southeast Asia and Asia, through Europe and back to the hospital where he works in London. Why did it have to be all six continents? When Steve was 19 he travelled to Chile with his brother and spent five months cycling in South America and that’s where the idea was seeded. He felt that it would fade away and ‘normal life’ would take hold, however this never happened. “I took a map and tried to trace out a route and I decided that through six continents would be the thing to do.” Originally estimated to take five years to complete, the journey is now more likely to take six years, leaving another two for his wheels to cross. Riding on his faithful touring bike ‘Belinda’, the last four years for Steve have involved camping by the side of the road before sunset with a little stove to cook noodles and a cup of coffee, and then cycling

roughly 110km, or seven hours of pedalturning per day, with breaks where he’s been able to talk to local people and eat local food. The schedule is similar to that of a working week; cycling for five days, and taking two days of rest, with a gap every four or five weeks to take a week off. The first five months, Steve was entirely alone. “I’ve learned that I quite like having time to think. You find out what you’re capable of; sometimes you push yourself quite hard, and you find out how much you can cope with, which is usually more than you think.” Steve’s cycled through minus 20 degree Celcius temperatures through the Alps and over 50 degree Celcius heat in the Sahara desert. In Africa, he was joined by his friend Naomi Rousell who cycled with him for seven months, leaving him alone again until South America, where he teamed up with the occasional cyclist that he’d meet on the road. In Canada, he was joined by his girlfriend, Claire Press, who met up with him again in Sydney and has been cycling with him since. Claire, whose background is in mental health, plans to join Steve until the end. “I love how cycling allows you to travel,” Claire says as we discuss her motives for joining Steve’s mission, having cycled some 4,500 km with him. “We often end up sleeping with local families and have ended up meeting people who do community projects. One in particular was doing maternal care, and we learnt that women often have babies at home and not in hospitals, so there are complications surrounding that, which seems mainly down to the community here to solve rather than down to the government.” Claire has also been overwhelmed by the generosity of the people. “The kindness doesn’t stop, regardless of what they have or haven’t got, which is incredibly humbling.” The journey through Indonesia took Steve and Claire from East Timor to Kupang, taking a ferry to Ende, cycling Flores to Labuan Bajo, then through Lombok, cycling through to the Gilis, Bali, then flying from Bali to Jakarta. Java was not cycled due to safety concerns. When asked what word sums up his experiences in Indonesia, Dr. Steve’s answer was ‘hospitality’. “I find it

hard to think of anywhere that I’ve travelled where I’ve had as much hospitality as in Indonesia.” In Jakarta, Steve and Claire have been hosted by Simon McCrumm, who got in touch with Steve when he found out their journey would be taking them through Jakarta, and generously offered a place for them to stay. In Jakarta, Dr. Steve has given presentations at BritCham, as well as the British International School, in an effort to raise awareness and funds. They’ve also spoken at Sekolah Kami, a school providing education for the children of pemulung in Bekasi. Dr. Steve’s journey has surprisingly taught him that the world is a safer place than people make it out to be. Locals will oftentimes warn Steve about his next destination, yet when he gets there, the people are always nice and friendly, oftentimes warning him about the next place again. On his journey, rubbish has been a problem, especially in Bolivia, Albania, Syria, and parts of Indonesia, where rubbish is strewn on the side of the road and people litter out of their car windows. Steve is now raising money for his “noodle fund”, which is required to get him back home through the last continent of Asia. Once he’s raised enough to get home, the doctor plans to raise funds again for charity. “I ran out of money completely when I got to Mexico,” Steve explains, which was about three years into his journey, “and I’ve had to try and earn money through public speaking at schools or bike clubs. I also sell photographs at events and through my website, and I write freelance for adventure travel magazines.” The noodle fund for the home stretch can be donated to through his website, where a Paypal button is available to help get Steve back home. For someone who was voted ‘most likely to fail at his cycling proficiency test’ at school, Steve has managed a feat that only a handful of people have. Once he returns home in two years, Dr. Steve plans to return to his job as a medical professional and write a book about his experiences cycling through the world.

To help Dr. Steve make it back home, please visit and donate here: www.Cyclingthe6.com

issue 114 indonesia expat

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EVENTS

JAKARTA EXHIBITION

Cosgraph: Cosplay & PhotoGraphy 2014 30–31 March 2014 Cosgraph is bringing you the chance to join in a competition tailored to those who have a knack or passion for cosplaying and photographing. The Cosplay (Costume Play) and photography contest w ill not be the only sections of the event that draw crowds to come; there will be games, food, bazaar, a comic strip competition, karaoke competition and dance competition among others. A guest band will also liven up the event. Cosgraph is set to take place at Taman Ismail Marzuki’s ‘Theatre Kecil’. For bazaar reservation, please call 0821 1108-7523 or 0877 80055900. Send an email to info. pcpromosindo@gmail.com for more information.

Keramika — Indonesia’s Premier Ceramic Event 17–20 April 2014 Keramika , in its 3 rd yea r of exhibition, will continue to be ASEAN’s leading marketplace for the ceramic industry. Keramika 2014 will be a four-day exhibition showcasing top products and breakthrough technolog y in c era m ic m a nu fa c t u r i ng, i n collaboration with ASAKI (The Indonesia Ceramic Industr y A ssociation). The event w ill present workshops and talks as well. Keramika 2014’s venue will be Hall B of the Jakarta C o n v e n t i o n C e n t e r (JC C ) . Trade visitors are welcome as networking opportunity will be high and plenty of information hubs on the industry are available. Business attire is encouraged. Contact Fitri on (021) 5274-212 and fitri.damayanti@asaki.co.id or Maria on (021) 2556-5000 and maria.achti@reedpanorama.com for more information on the event. www.keramika.co.id MUSIC

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indonesia expat issue 114

If you want your event to be posted here, please contact (+62) 0 21 7179 4550 or e-mail: events@indonesiaexpat.biz

Lionel Richie in Concert 3 April 2014 As part of his tour, Lionel Richie will say hello to his fans in Jakarta and perform in a concert titled ‘All the Hits, All Night Long: Live in Jakarta’. As the title promises, Richie will sing his top hits such as All Night Long, Hello, Say You Say Me, Easy, Endless Love and many more. Tickets range from Rp.700,000 to Rp.8,000,000, depending on seating arrangement. The Grammy award-w inning legend’s concert will be held at the Jakarta Convention Center (JCC). To purchase tickets and for more detail on the show, call (021) 7007-7979 or visit www. blackboxtix.com SPORTS

CONSERVATION

Enjoy Jakarta PGA Golf Championship 27–30 March 2014 The Indonesia PGA Championship — in collaboration with Enjoy Ja k a r t a , Ja p a n G o l f To u r Organization and OneAsia — will commence on 27 March 2014 at the first Jack Nicklaus-designed course in Indonesia, the Damai Indah Golf at Bumi Serpong Damai (BSD), located at Jl. Bukit Golf 1 Sektor VI, Tangerang. This massive US$1million tournament will have players from around the world competing for the championship title. For more information on the tournament, v i s i t w w w. i n d o n e s i a p g a championship.com. ELECTION

Komodo Junior Rugby Every Saturday The Jakarta Komodo Junior Rugby Club invites children of 5-14 years of age to join them in a weekly practice session. Children can enroll to the club during practice sessions, from 9am to 10.30am every Saturday until April 2014. Find the Junior Rugby Club at Jagorawi Golf & Country Club, Jalan Karanggan Raya, Cibinong, Bogor. For more information on joining the club, call (0812) 1037-454 or e-mail juniors@jakartarugby.com www.jakartarugby.com GOLF

Indonesia’s General Election 2014 9 April 2014 T he I ndone s i a n le g i sl at i ve election (general election) will elect members of national and regional legislature. The election will include national (People’s Representative Council or DPR & Regional Representative Council or DPD), province (Regional Ho u s e o f R e p r e s e n t a t i v e s Level 1 or DPRD) and regency l e v e l s (R e g i o n a l Ho u s e o f Representatives Level 2). The presidential election will follow in June 2014. CONFERENCE

Hospitality Investment World Indonesia 2014

Golf and Give 23 April 2014 Golf and Give Charity tournament is a golfing event brought to you by the Rotary Club Jakarta Sentral. You are invited to play at the Riverside Golf Club in Cimanggis, Cibubur and the proceeds from your participation fee will benefit a charity. The tournament will have a format of four-man team Texas Scramble and will tee off at noon (12pm). With the participation fee, golfers will get caddie fees, green fees, lunch, dinner, drinks and lucky draws covered. The contribution required in order to participate in the tournament is Rp.1,150,000 for individual entry and Rp.3,800,000 for team entries (team of four golfers). For more information and to RSVP, contact (021) 7581-7931 or e-mail gusgoh@kcbconvex.com

28–30 April 2014 The third annual Hospitality Investment World Indonesia will bring together more than 200 hoteliers and hospitality industry professionals in this conference to discuss and bring to light some impor tant key aspects in the development of the hospitality sector. The hospitality market in Indonesia is one of the most burgeoning business oppor tunities in Indonesia , and the chance to network and share valuable knowledge is presented at this conference. Some keynote speakers include DR. Mari Pangestu (Minister of Tourism and Creative Economy), Norbert Vas (Vice President of Archipelago International) and many more. This conference will be held at the Grand Hyatt Hotel, Jakarta (Jl. Kebon Kacang Raya No. 30). To get more information on the conference, email yeelim. tan@terrapinn.com or visit www. terrapinn.com.

Clean Up Kemang Day 2014 19 April 2014 A s par t of an ef for t to keep a sust a inable a nd clea ner environment, the Grandkemang Hotel, together with the Clean Up Jakarta Day initiative, presents Clean Up Kemang Day. This is a two-hour cleanup event, carried out by volunteers, from the Grandkemang Hotel to Jalan Kemang Raya (McDonald’s) and back. Volunteers will start picking up rubbish at 7am and end at 9am, on Saturday, 19 April. This act of gotong royong serves as a campaign to raise awareness of the rubbish problem in Jakarta. If you would like to volunteer, contact R iena on r iena@ mesahotelsandresorts.com. The assembly point, the Grandkemang Hotel, is located on Jl. Kemang Raya 2H, Jakarta.

Sri Lanka Photography Tour 4–15 August 2014 David Metcalf is offering you a chance for an odyssey you don’t want to miss; a photography tour to Sri Lanka. Amidst the architecture ruins, w ildlife, b e a u t i f u l t e a pl a n t a t i o n s , colourful ceremonies, rainforests and mountain peaks, you can capture some of the greatest images of your lifetime. ‘Sri Lanka — The Undiscovered Country’ w ill be g uided by sea soned photographers, David Metcalf and Mark Rayner. This tour is set to take place around the full moon time. Photographers will start in Colombo with vibrant street photography to Balipitya with its extensive birdlife, then to Koggara where f ishermen balance themselves on stilts with the sunset on the background. To join this photography tour, send an e-mail to davidmetcalf3@ m a c . c o m o r v i s i t w w w. davidmetcalfphotography.com MUSIC

BALI Dustin Thomas at Jazz Cafe CONFERENCE

AsiaARES 2014 14–17 April 2014 The 2014 A sia A R ES (A sian Conference on Ava ilabilit y, R e l i a b i l i t y a n d S e c u r i t y) is par t of the inter nationa l AR ES conference. Designed specifically for researchers in the Asian region, AsiaARES is the leading conference on current IT-security research. Researchers will present their findings at AsiaARES and seminars will focus on the interplay between foundational and practical issues of security in emerging areas, such as e-government, locationbased computing, m-government, and many more. The conference is highly dedicated to sharing k nowledge on Secure and Dependable Computing. A s i a A R E S w i l l b e he ld i n conjunction with ICT-EurAsia. This conference will take place at the Udayana University, Bali (Jl. Kampus Udayana). For more information, e-mail: office@ ares-conference.eu or ypoul@ sba-research.org. Web: www. asiaares.org PHOTOGRAPHY

29 March 2014 Dustin Thomas is a touring international musician who is bringing soul and R&B to Bali. This will be his second time playing at Jazz Cafe in Ubud. Dustin’s old soul is ref lected in songs that bring up issues of faith, love, society, etc. His fun beats as well as groovy ballads will be available for your listening pleasures live at Jazz Cafe starting at 8pm. Jazz Cafe is located at Jl. Sukma, Ubud, Bali. For additional details on the event, contact (0361) 976-594 or info@ jazzcafebali.com. Web: www. jazzcafebali.com

clinic, workshops, band competition, as well as being a platform to promote the national and international music industry. It also serves as a networking and educative event. SMEX will take place at the Grand City Surabaya Mall & Convex, located on Jl. Walikota Mustajab (Kusuma Bangsa), Surabaya. For details on SMEX, call (031) 545-9000 or go to www.surabayamusicexpo.com.

KALIMANTAN PHOTOGRAPHY

Borneo Photography Tour 2014 26 May–3 June 2014 Join experienced photographers Dayak Dave Metcalf and Mark R ay ner in a n ex pedition to photograph the wild Borneo jungles. This is a photography tour for those who would like to w itness a nd c apt ure the breathtaking beauty of Central K a limantan, which ha s a vibrant wildlife. The tour will also include the opportunity to capture the Dayak culture and tradition while exploring remote villages. Dave and Mark have a wealth of experience in photography tours that they could share with you. Visit www. davidmetcalfphotography.com for more details and to reserve a space on the tour.

MALANG CHARITY

SURABAYA EXPO

Love and Share 2014

SMEX — Surabaya Music Expo 2014 24–27 April 2014 The 5th Surabaya Music Expo (SMEX) will not only showcase musical talent, it is also a business opportunity. SMEX will showcase music instruments, accessories and equipment for sale, music

29 March 2014 Save Street Child Malang is an organization that helps street children, by housing them and providing education. For this good cause, Save Street Child Malang invites you to ‘Love and Share’, a charity and cultural event to help the future of these children. There will be opportunities to donate clothes, books as well as dance and music performances. Proceeds will go to the Save Street Child Malang foundation. There is no entrance fee to the event. For more information, contact SSCM on 0856 321-0037 or visit www.sschildmalang.org. Love and Share will take place at Graha Masera, Jl. Soekarno Hatta No. 18 at 6pm.


OBSERVATIONS

Adapt — The Content Expat The key quality necessary to become a content expat is having the ability and openness to adapt. As people, we have to adapt a little all the time; economics, children, health problems, marital issues, aging parents etc., all teach us that life doesn’t always go the way we may have planned. Our stringent opinions on parenthood become almost unrecognisable when there is a tenacious two-year-old tugging at your pyjamas wanting a lollipop at seven in the morning and your firm opinions of your own tenacity grow obscure when you find yourself unwrapping said lollipop at 7.10 and handing it over. Our romantic ideas of lifestyle and life choice go out the window when recession hits and ‘life sucks’ becomes the new mantra.

Denise Hession is an Irish columnist and expat to Doha, Abu Dhabi and now Jakarta. She writes a frank, funny and often poignant blog about life as an expat and living in Jakarta — a must-read. Check it out on http://thereluctantemigrant.wordpress.com

So if life is the beginner’s stage on adaptation, emigration is definitely the intermediate level. Along with all the usual curveballs that life throws our way, you need to learn to adapt to a new country, unfamiliar surroundings, and a new way of life, and learn to co-exist with people from very different backgrounds to your own. And if emigration is the intermediate level, then emigration to Jakarta, Indonesia, is the advanced course. (It would be advisable that you complete at least one year of the intermediate level before enlisting in the advanced level course.)

One week into life in Jakarta and so far every single aspect of my previous life is completely upended, having just gotten used to the strict ways of Abu Dhabi and the security of living in the comfort of an expat bubble of five-star hotels at three-star prices and three-star houses at five-star prices. A life almost exemplary of the phrase ‘monkey see, monkey do’ as most expats live the same life, do the same thing, in the manufactured western/Arab society. So, settling into Abu Dhabi or Dubai or Doha is easy; just do what everyone else does. But here in Jakarta, there is no semblance of a manufactured life; the biggest change is that as an expat you are joining a community, a city and a culture that is established. Indonesians have their own culture, their own industry and the city of Jakarta lives and breathes its own air — albeit polluted. While there are several expats in Jakarta, the influence of Indonesian culture is not diluted and being an expat in Jakarta, you are exposed to that culture every day, and therein lies the exercise of advanced adaptation. In one week, I have a driver, because “expats don’t drive”, a statement to be accepted rather than questioned. I have a maid because she comes with the house and to excuse her would see her family hungry. That’s two things I said I’d never do, three if

By Denise Hession

you count hunger. I have a medicine cabinet like Sam McCauley’s stockroom because the pollution is such that, contracting a disease is more ‘when’ than ‘if ’. We are brushing our teeth with bottled water. The equatorial climate is such that you spend morning covering up from the hot sun but by afternoon the torrential rain creates streams of mucky water flowing down the streets. Dinner in a local restaurant could be with dogs and cats (alive) creeping around beneath the table. KFC has a live band playing on a Friday and Saturday night. The sight of an open sewer along a street is more popular than a rubbish bin. A pint of local beer, Bintang, costs less than two Euro in a bar and a bottle of wine in the supermarket costs thirty five euro. The old Irish habit of being able to frequent a bar is back but in many (bars, not Irish people) age-old prostitution and new-age exploitation live companionably side by side. Apart from the disadvantage of finding it difficult to enjoy my take-out coffee in the passenger seat as I pass some of the most raw scenes of poverty I have witnessed bearing in mind my travel to date has been limited to the Canaries, New York, and Dubai — Jakarta is a hotbed; it’s everything you want and everything you don’t want all rolled up into one big ball.

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HAVE SOMETHING TO SELL? Looking for something to buy? Looking for staff? Selling property? Or need a place to live? Why not place your classified ad with Indonesia Expat! Your classified will be placed once for 2 weeks online and once in our printed version which has a circulation of 15.000 copies bi-weekly. Next deadline: 1 April

CONDITIONS Personal classifieds Commercial classifieds

Free of Charge (50 words max) Rp. 100,000 (0–50 words) Rp. 200,000 (50–100 words)

Property listings are considered as Commercial. Adding an image incurs an extra charge of Rp.150,000. Business Listings can only be placed on the Business Listings page (p.30) Send in your classifieds to ads@indonesiaexpat.biz

JAKARTA

Jobs Available

PROPERTY Nicely decorated 2 bedroom apartments in kemang mansion is available for rent. Close to restaurants, australian international school, grocery stores such as ranch market and kemchick. Please call me at 08111 929 899 Bandung : For rent Ciumbuluit Apartment Bandung 2BR, furnished. Info: 08122111919/2358ded I need an apartment or house for short term rent for family of 4. Move in April 10 to mid June. Nehemiah4_14@yahoo.co.nz For rent 300 houses at kemang, cipete, cilandak, jeruk purut, pondok indah big garden, s’pool, complex, 4-5 bedrooms, U$ 2000 – U$ 8000, phone: 0816859551 or 0817009336

Houses for Rent: 2 nice houses 2 storey, one large join pool, beautiful garden, 24 security compound, no cement wall between houses in the compound, approx 500 M2 house with 1,000 M2 land, located at Jl.Margasatwa Raya, 10 Minutes to Cilandak Commercial Estate, @ USD 2,500,- to USD 3,000,- per unit per month with min one year lease. If interested (no Broker/Agent), call owner 0811180605 JOBS Looking for Work Gardener Available. My name is Bambang. I am a gardener. I have experience and a letter of reference. I need this job, if you are interested, please contact :081386383413 We are looking for job as a couple; maid, nanny, housekeeper, any kind of job, willing to relocate anywhere. If anyone is interested this is my number 081288064551 Do you need knowledgeable person to do research, understand market potential, legal requirements? I can work on daily basis to assist your business. Contact: 081296157294

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indonesia expat issue 114

Indonesia Expat is recruiting! We are looking for an Events Manager (local) with distribution skills. T his person will be responsible for organizing events for the company, and be able to manage subscriptions and distributions of our publications around Indonesia. The position will be based in Kemang, from Monday - Friday. This position would suit someone who is organized and able to multitask, with very good admin and Microsoft Excel experience, excellent command of the English language, friendly over the phone and face-to-face, and loves to meet and interact with people. Attractive package available for the right candidate. Please send CV to info@indonesiaexpat.biz Only successful candidates will be contacted for interview. Good luck! Indonesia Expat is looking for a Graphic Designer (local) to join our team under the supervision of our Head Designer. The Ideal candidate should have two years experience in magazine design and layout, with experience in creative advertisement creation. Please send CV with previous work examples to info@indonesiaexpat. biz Only successful candidates will be contacted for interview. Good luck! We are production office of fashion garment. We need female models for our fitting session that is done once-two times in a week. The product includes Underwear, Swimwear & Outerwear. The face will not be captured in the fitting session. Requirement : - Size 75D/80C. - Minimum height 160 cm. - Body weight is normal and proportional. Send your data and body pictures to recruitment_puls@yahoo.com. Spanish Tutor—Learn Spanish at your place with an experienced Spanish tutor from Spain. Most of my students come from International Schools (JIS and BIS). Please call me (Raúl) 082110502786 Email: unascartas@yahoo.com I will be moving soon and my driver, Pak Udi, is available for employment immediately. Pak Udi worked for me and my family for the last 18 months. He is very

reliable, courteous, and knows Jakarta streets very well. You may contact Pak Udi directly at 08129813730 or you may email me for more info atsheuwenchan@ hotmail.com

Online English Lessons. I have been an English teacher for the past 7 years. If you want to improve your language skills email me at elenichristidou13@gmail.com. Negotiable prices.

Excellent Maid available. My temporary ex. nanny is now available for hire. Please contact her directly. Her name is Siti. she only worked for me as a temporary nanny for one month and she was excellent. She's extremely sweet, nice , and kind hearted. Call Siti on 081393740773

You can take Indonesian language training at home/office or from anywhere. I have experiences more than 5 years teaching Indonesian language for expatriates in Indonesia. I have strong program for Indonesian language course. My website www.indonesianlanguage.net . My Phone 081286494560, 0856-8907099

On the recommendation of a Christian friend a maid called Nina is available for hire. Contact her directly on Nina 08990075619 SERVICES Private & Semi private Bahasa Indonesia and English lessons(locals or non-native English expatriates) at your place (office, apartment or house). For expatriates, housewives or busy businesswomen. A Well experienced and qualified language teacher. Please contact 0812 829 67 345 for immediate response (preferable areas; Sudirman, Kuningan, and South Jakarta).

N o s t r u m Tu t o r i n g C e n t r e provides the best tutors (students or graduated from leading universities in Indonesia) who are willing to come to your place and adjust the lessons with your schedule. We are used to assist our students based on their school’s curriculum, such as IBPYP, IBMYP, IGCSE, O-Level, AS/A Level, IBDP, and many more. The students come from various international schools in Jakarta, e.g. JIS, BIS, NZIS, STB-ACS, SWA. Not only that, we also give the opportunity for students who have passion in learning any languages, such as Bahasa Indonesia, Mandarin, German, French, and many more. Contact us: Mobile : 0896 30900019 / 0878 78844885. Email : nostrum. education@gmail.com JCC WINES AND SPIRITS COLLECTIVE. A wide range of great wines and spirits delivered to your door free of charge! Emailinfo@jccwinesandspirits. com. See www.jccwinesandspirits. com

Conceived in the City of Manchester, UK, now residing in Jakar ta; Light Within Productions provides services across the spectrum of video production, including corporate videos, induction videos and promotional videos. We produce video explainers and animated marketing videos that inform and entertain. Convey the benefits of your business, product or service. Illuminate your target audience with a Light Within Production. Contact us at office@ lightwithinproductions.com or visit lightwithinproductions.com LIVE INTERNATIONAL STANDUP COMEDY IN INDONESIA. Jakarta and Bali Comedy Clubs bring international comedians to Jakarta and Bali every month for LIVE shows. If you would like to join the club in Jakarta or Bali please text your name and email address to 0821 1194 3084 or send your name and mobile number by email to info@jakartacomedyclub. com and tell us which club you would like to join. We will do the rest! Bahasa Indonesia lesson for expats at your house or office, given by experienced instructor.Letter of recommendation available. Please call Pak Chairuman on 0812 1037 466 or email: chairuman2013@ yahoo.co.id. PERSONAL INVESTIGATION AND SECURITY SERVICES. Full service for all your personal and commercial needs. Intelligence g at h e r i n g a n d b a c k g r o u n d investigation. Partner, spouse. Discreet service. Text only to 0816 1716 1686. I am Herry a professional Greeting Service at Soekarno Hatta Airport Jakarta. If you have any clients, expatriates or VIPs that are visiting Jakarta, needing Airport Assistance like VISA on ARRIVAL & FAST TRACK Immigration, Check In + Luggage Handling when Departure etc, please contact me at +6281317927009, pin 2A3A60B2. If there is anyone in here who wants to learn bahasa, you can contact me by sending me an email at constantponggawa@ymail.com or give me a call or text to this no. 085697692508. Thanks.

Private Piano lesson , for people of all ages @ your place.Don't hesitate , please send message contact : 08111 46512 or send email to :mia_pianist@yahoo.com Depok and Jakarta area: Levina — Bahasa Indonesia and English Tutor. Available to teach private or group with reasonable price (depending on location). Email: tutorlevina@gmail.com OTHERS Wo r l d ’s l a r g e s t g a l l e r y o f Indonesian Antiques (3000), textiles (1000), Stone Sculptures (350) Tribal Art, Weapons, Paintings, Graphics and other Works of Art, Unset Indonesian Gems (2000) Antique and Tribal Jewelry, Multi-Award-Winning Contemporary Jewelry & much more. Knowledgeable foreign curator; free book on Indonesian history & artefacts on all purchases. Dharma Mulia Galleries, Jl. Ir. H. Juanda (Ciputat Raya) 50, 7 days, 9-5. indonesiantiques. com; jewelsbyirwan.com; museumofindonesiangemstones. com. There’s no other place like this in Indonesia. In Bali— Gems and Jewelry at: Mozaic Restaurant, Jl. Raya Sangingan, Ubud and Hotel Tugu Bali, Jl. Pantai Batu Bolong, Canggu. Further info tel: 0811824302 If you need Amway products in Indonesia, contact Unikasari Setio. Hp: 0818-197-921 unikasari@gmail.com. Amway Multivitamin Nutrilite (Double X, Salmon Omega 3, Protein, etc.), Artistry Cosmetic, Personal Care, Home Care (SA8, LOC, etc.), Home Tech (Water Purifier E Spring, Air Purifier Atmosphere) Almost new De Longhi Espresso Machine, EC250 B For Sale! Bought Dec 2012, very moderate use in office by one person only. Well-kept and very clean, great espresso, perfect milk froth with little practice. Sold with set of 6 pretty coloured espresso cups, milk frothing can, special machine

cleanser. For sale for 2,8 Mio IDR. Pickup in Menteng. Questions? monathiele@gmail.com We will be leaving Jakarta soon and have the following item for sale. Please text 0813 88 969642 or send e-mail to cribertho@gmail. com Pick up in Pondok Indah Teak wood desk 160 x 73 x 75H, 3 draws eachside 900 IDR (picture on request). AUTOMOTIVE For Sale Toyota Avanza SGE 2010 Manual transmission. Vehicle has been sparingly used, has done less than 24,000 kms and is in excellent condition. Colour – Metallic Grey. Attractive pricing Rp.120 million. Owner is leaving the country shortly. If interested pls contact Deepak +6281-61462726 / deepakr1000@ gmail.com PERSONAL I’m a 28-year-old attractive woman looking for a 30+ male companion. I like coffee, watching movies and travelling. I’m looking for a man who is attractive, smells good, a coffee lover as well, outgoing and owns a car. If you fit these criteria, you’re allowed to e-mail me at betty_b00ps@ yahoo.com (b00ps is spelled with zeros). Must provide a photo or I will not respond.

BALI JOBS Looking for Work Available an English speaking private driver, experienced, honest, neat, can drive automatic car. If you need one please sms: 085714221679. Thank you. PROPERTY

Zen Villa 2 bdrms 2 ensuites plunge pool bale bengong air cond ceiling fans fully furnished 2 TV's Printer/copier/scanner WiFi parking 24/7 security. Available now US $20000 pa. Apply to allan.liene@gmail.com BALI CONDO FOR SALE 3 double bedrooms/3 bathrooms/ private pool and walled garden. In the Novotel Nusa Dua Hotel and Residences. Fully furnished


Contact us for competitive advertising rates and get noticed through our printed publication, e-newsletter and on our website.

ads@indonesiaexpat.biz

and serviced by the Novotel. Private residence but with the ability to rent out through Novotel when not in use. Enjoy all of the 5 star facilities of the hotel at a discounted price. Please contact fraser@truemail.co.th or +6681-6193978

Luxury Villa Oberoi-Semiyak Bali Villa Pevali is a luxury traditional Balinese style villa with 3 spacious bedrooms all with en-suite, private swimming pool, located in the real heart of Oberoi – Seminyak, with direct access to the best restaurants on Eat Street, only a short walk to the famous KuDeTa, the new Townhouse and Seminyak Beach. A private oasis right in the hustle and bustle of Oberoi with the best shopping and nightlife at your fingertips, but still offering a quiet and peaceful stay (no noise from nightlife or construction sites). The villa is staffed, air-conditioned, offers free high speed WiFi and cable TV. villapevalibali@gmail. com +6281236792207

walk to beach. Perfectly strategic for commercial and/or exclusive private villas overlooking golf course. Call 0816903290

Outstanding property in mystical Ubud, nestled in tropical woodlands with stunning valley views. This 2936 m2 free hold land is bordered by a river gorge and is beautifully contoured. Located only 10 mins from Ubud Central. Perfect for private villas with direct access road. Call 0816903290

Unlocked Apple iPhone 4, black 16 GB includes USB charger, great condition, no glitches or faults, works perfectly! Need to sell quickly make an offer. Pickup from Nyuh Kuning soccer field, ubud 082144635239 I respond to texts /SMS only, no phone calls. Thank you!

OTHERS

Two pro level tennis racquets Dunlop Aerogel 4D 200 Tour tennis racquet 4 3/8 grip + cover -used once. Wilson K six two K Factor Tennis racquet grip 4-1/4 strung with cover k62 -used handful of times. Priced to sell will give away to first reasonable offer. Pickup from Nyuh Kuning soccer field, ubud 082144635239 I respond to texts /SMS only, no phone calls. Thank you!

Experience staying at a beautiful, original antique Javanese Joglo house in the foothills of Mount Merapi. Joglo Ago is a three double bedroom villa with gardens, perfect for a weekend retreat from the hustle and bustle of city life. In close proximity to Mount Merapi and Borobudur Temple. Visit www.jogloago.com for more information or call Indah 08123563626 or 0811268445.

Antique monkey skull on primitive carved buffalo horn, a real show stopper paid $150 not sure I can get it through customs, so selling here. Will accept any offer over $50 / 510,000 IDR. Pickup from Nyuh Kuning soccer field, Ubud 082144635239. I respond to texts /SMS only, no phone calls. Thank you!

PELABUHAN RATU

For sale: 2 vouchers, each for 1 night stay in the Superior Twin/ Double room at the 3-star Grand Whiz hotel in Kuta. Valid until 2 April 2014. Price: Rp.250K per night! Breakfast for two at the Bambu Roras Restaurant is included. E-mail info@ indonesiaexpat.biz for details.

SERVICES UNIQUE APARTMENT FOR A BACHELOR! - on floor 25, with a stunning view to the south through a 7x8m window - one space, 7m high, with mezzanine - can be used as office or as residence - swimming pool on floor 7 - next to the Intercontinental Hotel - mall with restaurants, café’s and convenience stores on the ground floor - rented out furnished - available end of may 2014 price: US $ 1,850 / month period: minimum 1 year contact: HANS VAN OS / 0811 993 4659 / essenburg.hans@ gmail.com

Sale: Excellent freehold land 2100 m2 on main road to Tanah Lot, right next to Pan Pacific Bali Nirwana Golf resort, 400m

We are leaving Bali after 3 years and will go back to Europe. We are selling our household stuff which is located close to Ubud. Please have a look at https://secure. flickr.com/photos/112521106@ N07/sets/ My backup mac book pro 15 inch laptop computer for sale, includes brand new charger, new-ish hard drive and battery replaced by Apple reseller in Glebe, Sydney recommended by main Apple store in CBD about 8 months ago. Works perfectly, no glitches, two small superficial dents, one on back corner and one near ethernet cable port, do not affect functionality and minor scratches from normal wear. Includes adobe photoshop ps6 for free! Voltage regulator and aus/indo adapter free! Macbook pro was purchased new by my work in mid 2009 and I didn't use it until 2010. Priced to sell quickly will accept any reasonable offer. Pickup from Nyuh Kuning soccer field, ubud 082144635239 I respond to texts /SMS only, no phone calls. Thank you!

Need cheap transportation with familiar driver for traveling in Bali? Contact me at +62 081237688868 / +62 81999575215 or email ketut. bali23@yahoo.com. FURNITURE Two Queen beds sprung mattress like new, 3 million each or 5.5 million for both. Sanur, Bali 081999571288 Lounge suite 3 seater sofa and single chair, large & comfy from UK. Rp.3.5 juta, Sanur, Bali 081999571288

BATAM PROPERTY House for rent in Batam island. Total area 78 m 2 , 2 sleeping rooms, 1 bathroom, 1 kitchen, 1 carport. Rental cost SGD 3800 per year (semi furnish) negotiable. Location: Complex housing Anggrek Sari cluster Emerald, Batam Center. Call: YANTI +62812-70138277

JOGJAKARTA OTHERS

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PT ARIPA MAKMUR PERSADA Graha Aktiva (American Express Building) 4 th Floor, Suite 405, Jl. H. R. Rasuna Said, Kuningan, Jakarta 12950 - Indonesia

PROPERTY

Discover Villa Gamrang. Experience our hospitality and the complete privacy of your own beach house. Villa Gamrang (Cisolok beach, 4 hours’ drive from Jakarta) is designed to offer guests a wonderful and luxurious holiday with beautiful and natural surroundings. Stylish interior, several outdoor terrace’s, sea view, spacious garden, swimming pool, 4 bedrooms and 3 bathrooms, complete kitchen, cable television, internet (WiFi). Idyllic place for couples or one or two families. Staff and in house catering available. Attractive prices starting from IDR 1,400,000 per night. Most of our guests visit us again. Reservations. www. villa-gamrang.nl or just mail us villagamrang@gmail.com

BANDUNG For sale: Six vouchers (each for one night stay) in The Classic room at the luxurious The Papandayan hotel, Bandung. Breakfast for two (2) persons included. Each voucher is priced at Rp.600K (room value: Rp.1million). Voucher is valid until 31 May 2014. Reservations must be made in advance, so email info@ indonesiaexpat.biz to purchase the ticket and book your relaxing getaway soon! issue 114 indonesia expat

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INDONESIA EXPAT DIRECTORY

INDONESIA EXPAT DIRECTORY

Santa Fe provides moving services — International, domestic, local & office, document storage & management services, real estate, property management & maintenance, orientations, visa & immigration and home contents insurance.

Scan your books to read them on the go! PT. MegaEnviron is specialized in scanning books even without removing the book bindings (non-destructive scan). Other services include scanning documents, photographs,films, and slides, data entry, managing documents and database. Contact: Charoen Sanpawa Mobile: 0811-930-3744 Office: 021-632-6667. E-mail:charoen@megaenviron.com Website: www.MegaEnviron.com

Call us Jakarta: +62 21 2961 2990 Balikpapan:+62 542 713 4334 Bali: +62 811 889 2445 Surabaya: +62 812 304 4775 or Email: sales@santaferelo.co.id and visit our website www.SantaFeRelo.com for more information

Medical evacuation health and life insurance. Let us diagnose your needs. Contact: Paul Beale Mobile: +62 816 137 0663 Office: +62 21 522 0990 E-mail: paulbeale@gms-financial.com

INDONESIA EXPAT DIRECTORY

INDONESIA EXPAT DIRECTORY

"Safe Stories Counselling Service for Children and Young People Offering Play, Art and Drama Therapy Global Doctor Indonesia Jalan Kemang Raya 87 12730, Jakarta Selatan, Indonesia Phone: +62 (0) 21 719 4565

INDONESIA EXPAT DIRECTORY

INDONESIA EXPAT DIRECTORY

INDONESIA EXPAT DIRECTORY

INDONESIA EXPAT DIRECTORY

Bartele Gallery is the only dedicated shop in Indonesia which focuses on antique maps, prints, photographs, books and antiquities, ideal for a unique gift for that special someone. Come and browse through hundreds of old and original maps and prints from all across the globe! Call us +62 (0) 21 719 0087 or Email: bartele. santema@gmail.com and visit our Facebook facebook.com/bartelegallery for more information

Relax. We carry the load. Your peace of mind is our highest priority. One company Allied to Allied, over 800 locations worldwide. Your specialist in household goods moving services. Jakarta: (021) 780 7851 Surabaya: (031) 749 8377 E-mail: info@alliedpickfords.co.id Web: www.alliedpickfords.co.id

INDONESIA EXPAT DIRECTORY

INDONESIA EXPAT DIRECTORY

PT. Jakarta Real Estate Solutions Wisma Kemang 4th Floor, Jl Kemang Selatan Raya No. 1, Jakarta 12560 Phone: 021 7132 4283 e-mail: admin@jakres.com Website: www.jakres.com

INTERNATIONAL, DOMESTIC, LOCAL, OFFICE MOVING, STORAGE Call Francois 085 8838 98678 E-mail: francois@safeway.co.id or Firdaus: 0812 945 6005 E-mail: firdaus@safewayrelo.com Website: www.safewayrelo.com “RELOCATION MADE EASY’’

TO BOOK SPACE ON THIS DIRECTORY PAGE CALL: 021 7179 4550

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Indonesia Expat - issue 114