the independent style magazine
Y E A R S O F I N D I E M AGAZ I N E T H E B IG B O N K E R S B I R T H D AY IS S U E
We'r e c el eb rat i n g w i t h NICOLA FORMICHETTI GARETH PUGH
NO. 40 AUTUMN 2013 ENGLISH EDITION
ICONA POP P'TRIQUE PLACEBO PIXIES
9 771995 417005
P. b. b. Verlagspostamt 1070 Wien, 06Z036724 M / Printed in Austria
PHOENIX FRANZ FERDINAND PRIMAL SCREAM
an d m an y m an y m o re
Preview pages of INDIE MAGAZINE Issue No. 40 DOWNLOAD OR ORDER THE COMPLETE ISSUE HERE!
All anniversary quotes curated by
« ... I was not in the same good state that I am today. Alcohol and drugs caused problems and pains to me and everybody around me. And of course, the band suffered creatively. I’m glad that this is over. Nowadays I am almost five years sober, off alcohol and drugs.»
looking back with primal scream
Y E A R S A G O . . . T H E L A S T
W E S H A R E D A P I E C E O F B I R T H D AY C A K E , THEY SHARED MEMORIES:
p rima l
sc r e a m
Y E A R S . .. « ... a lot changed, but also a lot stayed the same. We still make druggy-sounding psychedelic music. It’s just that since we stopped taking a lot of drugs we got better at it. Today we’re living in really very extreme times. J. G. Ballard once said there was no need to write science fiction, because we’re living in a science fiction novel, and I completely agree with that.»
T H E
looking back with chloe nørgaard
Y E A R S A G O ...
L A S T
« ... I was obsessed with Eminem and just got into the hardcore scene. I was riding around town with the skaters, going to as many shows as possible and colouring my hair with sharpies in Earth Science. I totally had braces too.»
Y E A R S .. .
W E S H A R E D A P I E C E O F B I R T H D AY C A K E , THEY SHARED MEMORIES:
c h lo e
n ør g a a r d
« ... I’ve wanted to be a drummer, an actress, a psychologist... I’m still colouring my hair, but leave the markers to doodling on my car and in my scrapbook. I still enjoy some of the same music but have gotten more into the roots of it all, classic rock, thanks to my dad. I’ve graduated high school (top of my class), gone to college and started travelling the world on my own. There are still so many places I want to see, but I am super grateful for all the opportunities I have had so far. I’ve just recently had to add new pages to my passport because it’s completely full, which I think is pretty rad! I’ve gotten to work with super inspiring people and have even been told I inspire some too, which makes me happy. I feel that I have manifested most of the things in my life, which shows that anything is possible. Just believe in yourself, kiddies & grannies, cause I do!»
P h o t o g r a p h y Anya Holdstock
HAPPINESS IS JUST AROUND THE CORNER
we like to party we like we like to party
# T O T E S A M A Z E NOTHING SAYS
LIKE AN IT-GIRL!
THIS IS WHY FOR OUR ANNIVERSARY WE HAVE FLOWN IN NONE OTHER THAN YOUTUBE STAR AND “SH*T FASHION GIRLS SAY” ICON P’ TRIQUE TO DECAPITATE A
party with p’trique
BOTTLE OF BIRTHDAY CHAMPAGNE WITH US. IN-BETWEEN FASHION WEEKS, HER OWN RESORT COLLECTION FOR TOPSHOP AND CHITCHAT WITH NICOLA FORMICHETTI, TYRA BANKS AND OTHER BFFS ON HER MULTI-MILLIONCLICK-RATED YOUTUBE CHANNEL, SHOOTS WITH COCO ROCHA AND PRESENTI NG A COACHELLA REPORT WITH PIXIE GELDOF, P ’TRIQUE – SUPPORTED BY OUR SMALL PARTY GUESTS JULIUS AND HELENA – BLEW OUT CANDLES, UNWRAPPED PRESENTS AND TOOTED ON GLITTERING HORNS TO HER HEART'S CONTENT. JUST WHAT A TENTH BIRTHDAY PARTY IS SUPPOSED TO BE LIKE.
Daliah Spiegel ––– Styling
Yoan Gonfond ––– Production
Kira Stachowitsch ––– Production assistant
Frieda Paris ––– Party guests
Helena & Julius with dog Nala & cat Jeanny
Glasses Mykita Hats Mühlbauer Shirt Balenciaga via Amicis Rings P’trique’s own
To p V i v i e n n e We s t w o o d Leggings Intimissimi
GROUND IT GIRL. WILL I BE MAINSTREAM? AREN’T I ALREADY? THESE QUESTIONS PLAGUE ME LIKE THEY DO YOU. I’M SPECIAL BECAUSE I’VE SAID
TRANSCENDED TO A LEVEL OF INDIVIDUALITY THAT, LIKE A STYLE BODHISATT VA, I HOPE TO SPREAD TO THE MASSES.»
P ’t r i q u e w e a r s Headband Mühlbauer Sunglasses Roberto Cavalli To p V i v i e n n e We s t w o o d Kids wear Hairband and hats Mühlbauer To p s H & M
#frumpnastics P â€™t r i q u e w e a r s Sunglasses Roberto Cavalli To p V i v i e n n e We s t w o o d Leggings Intimissimi Kids wear Hairband and hats MĂźhlbauer To p s H & M
To p V i v i e n n e We s t w o o d Leggings Intimissimi Shoes P’trique’s own
«MY ST YLE ALWAYS DEPENDS SEASON
CYCLE. NO ONE HAS A CRYSTAL
ENJOY TAKING FASHION RISKS
‹FASHION IS FUN› IS ALWAYS
THOUGHT WHEN PREPPING
P h o t o g r a p h y Anya Holdstock
DONâ€™T STOP, MAKE IT POP
pulling up to the parties trying to get a little bit tipsy
H A N D S O N THE TOP TEN IN THE CHARTS, OUR NEW YEAR’S EVE COUNTDOWN AND THE NUMBER OF FINGERS AND TOES, AS PERFECTLY CHOSEN BY EVOLUTION: ALL GOOD THINGS COME IN TENS. AS LONG AS OUR AGE CAN BE COUNTED ON TWO HANDS, LET IT BE TWO AS BEAUTIFUL AS THESE: LOS ANGELES-BASED PHOTOGRAPHER NATALIE NEAL WENT ON A SEARCH FOR THE STORIES BEHIND ALL THAT PERMANENT INK.
Natalie Neal ––– Te x t & I n t e r v i e w
Z A C K
M O N D E K ,
KNUCKLES ON KNUCKLES
« I l i v e i n Los Angeles and I’m a student... of love. The first tattoo I ever got was on my hand, it said Forgive me for my sins. One day I got tired of looking at it, so I got a rose on top of it. I’ve always liked roses, they symbolize a lot of things: secrecy, passion, and love. I mean... all we need is love. My knuckle tattoos I got not too much later. I decided after months of thinking to get knuckles on my knuckles, just because everything else I wanted looked so corny. I think my knuckles now represent my carefree, fun, and spontaneous approach to life. I love my hand tattoos even if it is a little taboo. I am glad and proud to have them. »
E R I C
W I L L I A M
D E S I M O N E ,
FAMILY ABOVE ALL
« I l i v e i n Silverlake, Los Angeles/ California, where I work as a professional chef. The story behind my tattoos: I am a firm believer in family. My family are the only ones that I could, no doubt, always count on. I respect my parents very much, so that would be why I have madre and padre. The greek tattoos on my hands resemble ‹family› and the one on the right is for ‹Bunny›, my wife. My family and my wife have done so much for me, I figured the least I could do is to show my love and respect for them by getting ink. Something permanent. Just as a reminder, I suppose, to myself when I’m faced with a hard time, that these people will always be there for me. »
party movies 60
Te x t
Judith Humer ––– Illustration
IT’S OUR PART Y AND WE... WHEN YOU GET TO THE RIPE OLD AGE OF TEN, YOU'RE NOT JUST GOING TO HANG OUT WHEREVER WITH WHOE V E R . Y O U WA N T A P R O P E R C E L E B R A T I O N . L E T ' S H AV E A LOOK TO THE WORLD OF THE S I LV E R S C R E E N T H E N , F O R G U I D A N C E A N D I N S P I R AT I O N O N H O W T O T H R O W T H AT B I R T H D AY D O .
The Oxford dictionary surely knows how to have fun, defining a party as “a social gathering, usually of invited guests.” Sounds a hoot, Professor. A trawl through the less austere world of online dictionaries will quickly bring up more colourful descriptions such as: “typically involving eating, drinking, and entertainment”, “especially for pleasure or amusement” or “a social event at which people meet to celebrate something or to have fun by eating and drinking, dancing, playing games etc.” Good point. Sometimes, amongst taking care of all the necessary arrangements, you can easily forget what you have actually got together for. Words like the German “Fest”, the Spanish “fiesta”, the French “fête” or indeed the English “feast” share their origin in the Latin word fanum, meaning “religious”. But their piety certainly did not keep the old Romans or Greeks from indulging in excessive behaviour whilst celebrating. Why not go all the way and worship a proper Party God, the ancient Greeks had asked themselves when they conjured up Dionysus, God of wine and ecstasy, followed by his Roman equivalent Bacchus. With the advent of Christianity, the cult of Bacchus might have lost a few devotees, but at least the Bacchanalian lifestyle has found a modern manifestation on the silver screen in one perennial genre: the party movie.
T H E
C O M M A N D M E N T S
N O T T H A T W E W O U L D N E C E S S A R I LY O B E Y T H E M , B U T T H E R E A R E AS MANY OF THEM AS THERE ARE YEARS OF THIS MAGAZINE TO C E L E B R A T E . I T ’ S E N O U G H O F A N E X C U S E T O L E T C R E A T I V E S H AV E A THINK ABOUT MORALS AND RULES. HERE ARE THE TEN COMMAND-
M I C H E L L E
E I S M A N N
M E N T S , S E E N T H R O U G H T H E E Y E S O F O U R FAV O U R I T E I L L U S T R AT O R S .
you shall have no other gods before me.
A N T H O N Y G E R A C E
London, United Kingdom a-gerace.com
you shall not take the name of the lord your god in vain.
A S H K A N
H O N A R VA R
Netherlands / Norway ashkanhonarvar.com 86
you shall not kill.
R A P H A Ă‹ L L E
M A R T I N
Freiburg, Germany raphaellemartin.com
y o u s h a l l n o t c o m m i t a d u l t e r y.
Te x t & I n t e r v i e w
Juliane Buchroithner ––– Curated by
time travelling with bless
L E S B
DESIREE HEISS AND INES KAAG MIGHT WELL BE RESPONSIBLE FOR THE SURVIVAL OF POPULAR WORDS BOOT: WHATEVER BLESS PUT THEIR ENDANGERED BY INFLATIONARY HANDS TO BECOMES A WORK OF USE SUCH AS “INTERDISCIPLINARY”, ART. WHERE THE CUTTING EDGE “CONCEPT” OR “COLLABORATION”. BORDERS ON THE AVANT GARDE AFTER ALL, THESE TWO DESIGNERS THESE TWO AUTEUR DESIGNERS MANAGE TO RECALL THE TRUE HAVE KNITTED THEMSELVES INTO A MEANING OF THOSE OVERUSED VERY SPECIAL POSITION WHICH BY Photography
NOTIONS. AND THEY’VE BEEN FAR TRANSCENDS THEIR PHYSICAL DOING SO FOR FIFTEEN YEARS. BE LOCATIONS IN PARIS AND BERLIN. IT TEAM-UPS WITH COMPANIES REASON ENOUGH TO ASK THEM FROM WRANGLER TO LONGCHAMP, FOR A RETROSPECTIVE THAT OR THEIR LEGENDARY ERAM KNITSHOULD CAST THE MILESTONES OF THEIR CAREER SO FAR IN AN APPROPRIATE LIGHT.
Edouard Plongeon ––– Styling
Juliette Lamet & Candy Hagedorn ––– Hair & Make-up
Gilles Degivry / Artlist Paris ––– Models
Juliette Lamet & Candy Hagedorn
Furwig N 째 0 0 75
1 9 9 6 B
E L M H
Juliane Buchroithner –––
H A R D
W I LL time travelling with bernhard willhelm
Te x t
Claudia Hubmann –––
B E R
Photo Bernhard Willhem
BERNHARD WILLHELM COULD BE CALLED THE BJÖRK OF THE FASHION SCENE: ECCENTRIC, FROM A DIFFERENT UNIVERSE, UNPREDICTABLE AND REFUSING TO GROW UP IN THE BEST POSSIBLE WAY. MAY OTHER MENSWEAR DESIGNERS CONCERN THEMSELVES WITH THE UMPTEENTH REINVENTION OF SUIT, COAT, SHIRT AND HAT, IN WILLHELM’S WORLD FASHION IS STILL MADE TO BE NOTHING LESS THAN FUN-TASTIC.
The fact that Albert Einstein is the bestknown son of the southern German University town of Ulm has some relevance to Willhelm’s story, as he comes from the same part of the world while also displaying a tendency to question received wisdom in his area of expertise. In other words: Lederhosen, farmers’ shirts and felt hats no longer remain the monopoly of the oompah band in the beer tent, but get swiftly re-contextualised and integrated into the designer’s collec-
tions as a meta reference to his provenance. Elements of sportswear, tracksuit bottoms, velcro fastened sandals and rucksacks are freed of the stale smell of functional wear, as graffiti-style scrawls, flames and fantasy patterns explode like visual water balloons on the beholder’s retina. A pair of day-glo braces here, a hat made of astroturf there. Say it loud, I’m weird and I’m proud. All of this has been going on since 1998 when Willhelm graduated from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, a mere twenty years after the famous “Antwerp Six”, going on to work as an assistant to Walter Van Beirendonck, Alexander McQueen, Vivienne Westwood and Dirk Bikkembergs. His 1999 debut at Paris Fashionweek was still womenswear only, but since 2003 he has been showing at Menswear Fashion Week, and his current AW13 collection aims for somewhere in the middle of the gender divide. All the more welcome that Willhelm has been allowed to pass on his view of the fashion universe to the next generation in an official capacity: Since October 2009 he has been leading the Fashion Class at Vienna’s University of Applied Arts, his annual graduation shows marking a much-hyped highlight of the fashion year. Suit, coat, shirt and hat? Not in this life, thank you very much.
For INDIE’s birthday issue Bernhard shares the stories behind some of the most outrageous stagings for his collections over the past ten years.
M E L
W I L
2 0 0 4 E
N H A R
Grey Camo Collection AT THE ATELIER RUE DE CHARONNE
« This collection was designed at the time of the Iraq war, when the Americans had stormed Saddam Hussein’s palace. After the operation the soldiers posed there. It became a kind of performance which was restaged in our show as a kind of circuit training with different pieces of furniture and objects, followed by a group photo and lots of posing. The models were strippers who were cast for this show over the internet… »
Te x t
Claudia Hubmann ––– Interview
R E T
Juliane Buchroithner Kira Stachowitsch –––
P U time travelling with gareth pugh
HE MADE DRESSES OUT OF INFLATED RED-AND-WHITE STRIPY BALLOONS AND HAD CASEY SPOONER FLUTTER DOWN THE CATWALK AS AN ILLUMINATED BUTTERFLY. GARETH PUGH WAS ALWAYS GOING TO BE ONE OF THE GREATS OF FASHION. WE ALREADY KNEW Photography
THAT AS FAR BACK AS INDIE 09
Anya Holdstock –––
Georgia Boal Russell ––– Hair
Back then Gareth Pugh had just about collected his diploma from Central Saint Martins College and got through his couple of shows at London Fashion Week. It was far from obvious that only a few years later he would be regarded as the up and coming star of the fashion world. Conventional everyday wearability was just as immaterial to him as whether his models could actually see while wearing his outfits, indulging a habit of sending them out on the runway wearing masks or eccentric wraps around their heads. “I’m A Fucking Superstar,” the title of Pugh’s first collection, didn’t seem too lofty an ambition for his career. Be it human hair, fox fur, latex, PVC, LEDs, sometimes even normal cloth, in
Pugh’s hands everything turned into total art, following in the vein of great British eccentrics like Leigh Bowery or Alexander McQueen. Then, in September 2008, he made the big jump from “can’t be weird enough” London to the Seine. Le freak, c’est chic! And lo and behold, Pugh seems to have effortlessly managed the balancing act between fashion weirdo and serious couturier, establishing himself more and more with every season as a major figure at Paris Fashionweek. In our interview he explains what has happened in his life since his degree collection in 2003, what ties him to London’s Royal Opera House, and where he expects to find himself in ten years’ time.
Dave Noble ––– Make-up
Nicola Moores using Illamasqua ––– Styling assistant
Leona Burton ––– Model
Yulia Museytchuk / Select ––– Location
Hurlingham Castle with special thanks to Wensley HaydonBaillie
2 0 1 1 A
R E T
BEST OF BRITISH H AV I N G L O N G C A S T O F F I T S F O G E Y W A S Y E S T E R D A Y. E V E R FUSTY IMAGE, THIS TRADISINCE CHRISTOPHER BAILEY T I O N A L C O M PA N Y I S F I N D I N G H A S TA K E N O V E R A S A D E S I G N E R , I T S F U T U R E I N T H E B R AV E N E W B U R B E R R Y H AV E B E E N T A K I N G WORLD OF SOCIAL MEDIA AND C O U R S E F O R F R E S H PA S T U R E S BEAUTY PRODUCTS.
burberry brit rhythm
I N M O R E T H A N O N E W A Y.
Burberry Brit Rhythm fragrance & exclusive capsule collection leather jacket
Te x t
Claudia Hubmann ––– Photography
Britta Burger ––– Model
Niall / FM London
In the early 2000s Burberry was wandering lost through credibility Nowhereland. Along came Christopher Bailey, gave the old trench coat label an urgently needed image makeover and turned Burberry into what it is today: both a symbol of classic Brit chic and an innovative business. These days, Burberry collections are sold straight from the runway. Bailey was one of the first in the business to realise that fashionistas have an attention span of mere split seconds, so brand new clothes should not just be advertised on a live stream via the web but also be available right after the show in the online shop. His next coup was opening a new fashion front in the field of beauty products. Last season Rosie Huntington-Whiteley was the enticing figurehead of the Burberry Body perfume range, then the Burberry Beauty line was designed in perfect synch with the SS14 collection including nail varnish, eye shadow, blush, lipsticks, mascara etc. Now it’s the boys’ turn: The new Brit Rhythm men’s fragrance is supposed to spray nothing less than the condensed energy of a live gig onto the wearer’s skin. Wow. But in a way it makes sense. After all, Bailey has taken quite a shine to London’s music scene. Up and coming young musicians have recorded exclusive songs for his Burberry Acoustic project. George Barnett, highly talented mastermind of These New Puritans, model and Pixie Geldof’s boyfriend, has been recruited as the face of Brit Rhythm. Perfect casting, we think. Smells like Brit spirit. ‡
C H R I S T O P H E R B A I L E Y ’ S C U R R E N T 1 0 F AV O U R I T E # M U S I C M O N D AY S O N G S
Two Door Cinema Club – Sleep Alone George Ezra – Benjamin Twine Suede – Animal Nitrate Franz Ferdinand – Take Me Out Blur – Tender Alison Moyet – Whispering Your Name Jake Bugg – Folsom Prison Blues Biffy Clyro – Black Chandelier Noah And The Whale – 5 Years Time The Who – Behind Blue Eyes
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