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ESTABLISHED IN 1985 

DECEMBER 2008

Little Things for Your Little One Flannel Sacques

Hankie Dress & Jacket Embroidery Designs Fancy Daygown Boy’s Nightshirt Tips for Bias Binding Smocking Knit Fabrics

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Children’s Corner “The patterns that fit!” Since 1978

718 Thompson Lane Suite 104 Nashville, TN 37204 615-292-1746 www.childrenscornerstore.com For wholesale orders and inquiries Patterns: 800-543-6915 or New wholesale online ordering www.childrenscornerinc.com Fabric by Fabric Finders Wholesale inquiries 256-767-7615 www.fabricfindersinc.com Charley wears a #253 George, made of blue dobby by Fabric Finders.

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• Featured Outfits • Scrapbook • Notions • Fabrics, Novelty & Heirloom • Fine Imported Laces • Books • Patterns for Heirloom • Smocking • Embroidery • Quilting • Hand sewing • Appliqué • Children’s Playwear • Computer software • Elna Dealer

Bear Threads, Ltd. America’s Largest Selection of Swiss Fabrics & Swiss Embroideries Featuring Bearissima, Bearissima II & “Giger” The “Crème de la Crème” of Swiss Batistes Swiss Twill Batiste – Solids & Prints Pique – Solids, Prints & Textures Silky Cotton Mini-Micro Checks Cotton Flannel

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Contents for Baby 12 Sewing The ins and outs of smocking on Sea Island knits are easy to master. You’ll love this cuddly fabric for your little one.

Legacy 14 Heirloom It’s all in the details! Call it a “sleepshirt” instead of a “daygown.” Choose a boyish plaid fabric in place of dainty batiste. Add shirt styling to replace feminine curves. Voila! A boy’s garment even a dad can love.

a Point 21 Making Showcase a collection of handkerchiefs in a delightful way! Add a yoke embellishment, trim a hem, or fashion a patchwork jacket—for one-of-a-kind garments with flair.

Arrivals 28 New Welcoming the newest addition with beautifully

made garments is a time-honored tradition. Choose sumptuous fabrics and classic designs for heirlooms that mark a special occasion. continued on page 4

On the cover: A pink confection in Pima cotton, embellished with a vintage handkerchief is “Sunsuit/ Sundress” from Creations by Michié. See page 21.

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Dancing Needles Heirloom Smocking Supplies Custom sewing for children Antique laces Swiss embroideries Specialty Fabrics Swiss batiste • Liberty of London Linens • Silk Dupioni Beauty pins • Silver charms

Authorized Bernina Dealer Store Hours:   9:30-5:00 Monday-Friday 10:00-4:00 Saturday

Spencer looks adorable in his blue bubble accented with a white collar with petite piping. Pattern is from Creations by Michie.

Beth’s

2717 Lebanon Road • Nashville,TN • 37214 Phone 615-885-0898 • Fax 615-885-9693 Email: dancingneedles@bellsouth.net www.sew2000.com/dancingneedles BACK IN PRINT

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contents December 2008, vol. 24, no. 6

8

53

From the Editor Profile

60

Stitch Wise

69

Noteworthy Events

70

Essentials

82

Suppliers Directory

88

Connecting

Guide 56 Basic Choosing the perfect combination of elements is the

ultimate definition of elegance in sewing. Trudy Horne offers a confection in pink batiste that is simplicity and charm personified.

Plate 62 Smock The subtle shades of “Ellen’s Watercolors” provide a

perfect complement to a print fabric. Catherine Lawler gives guidance on choosing floss colors for prints.

Knits 65 Pleating Special tips for pleating knit fabrics for small touches of smocking.

66 Bella A classic infant sacque from luxurious Austrian cashmere flannel is embellished with delicate embroidery. An accompanying daygown, fashioned from robin’s egg Swiss Nelona batiste is embroidered for a complementary look.

To 74 How Find it, make it, stitch it...including Madiera hem treatment

and sleeve adaptation for “Baby Apron”; embroidery instructions for diaper shirt and cover; hints for adding bias binding; plus complete information on all garments in “New Arrivals,” pages 28-36.

Pattern Pull-out, Center Section (37-52)

Handkerchief jacket; Madeira hem treatment, tuck guide, collar embroidery, sacque embroidery, diaper shirt embroidery

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Founded 1985 EDITOR in CHIEF Ann M. Henderson Executive Editor Elena Rickenbach Editorial Director Dianne Boney Art Director Ina Johnson Subscription Services Pam Hunziker Contributors Lynn Bingham Lynn Blanchard  Beth Bryson Nancy Coburn Carol Harris Suzanne Hebert Trudy Horne Catherine Lawler Tina Lewis Gini Mitchell Michié Mooney Trudy Thompson Rice Betsy Sherman Dorothy Cheek Still Marie Yolande Illustrators Trudy Horne Ina Johnson Patricia Keay Alex Wenzel Photographer Connie Irwin SUBSCRIPTIONS: to Creative Needle, 1 Apollo Road, Lookout Mtn., GA 30750. Telephone (706) 820-2600. Subscription form in each issue, or call ORDER LINE (800) 443-3127 to use Visa/MC, US rates: one year (6 issues) $32.95. Two year (12 issues) $54.95. Three years (18 issues) $78.95. Canada, Mexico, Bermuda rates: one year $43.60. All other outside the U.S., one year $80.95. Georgia subscribers add 7% sales tax. New subscribers allow up to 8 weeks. Single issues available at needlework stores. For nearest Bookstore or Newsstand, call Eastern News (800) 221-3148. FOR BACK ISSUES, CHANGE OF ADDRESS, ADVERTISING, or EDITORIAL information, call: (706) 820-2600. 24-hour FAX: (706) 820-2164. Send all email to: info@creativeneedlemag.com. CREATIVE NEEDLE (ISSN 0887-2384) USPS#757210 is published bimonthly, contents ©2008 Needle Publishing, Inc. Periodicals postage paid at Lookout Mtn., TN 37350 and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send change of address to Creative Needle, 1 Apollo Road, Lookout Mtn. GA 30750.

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WHOLESALE ONLY Baby Sacque...Flat Raglan Sleeve Daygowns Easy to sew raglan sleeve design with a back closing....Ideal for soft knits....More than three variations, including baby sacque with ribbon casing and embellished or plain hemline....Long straight sleeve, long puff sleeve, three-quarter length sleeves....Use with trim or bias binding on neckline and sleeve.... Design for monogramming....Multi-sized pattern includes sizes preemie, newborn, infant, and large for only $12 per pattern, plus $5 shipping WHOLESALE • RETAIL To order contact: NANCY COBURN P. O. Box 240728 • Montgomery, AL 36124 Tel: 334-567-4239 FAX 334-514-0014

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a letter from the editor…

A few months ago, I was browsing in an antique store, examining the old linens, admiring the dishes and glassware, spending a lazy afternoon musing about the way things used to be. As I was about to leave, a stack of

postcards caught my eye. They were photographs of babies. These priceless photos had been shared with family and friends, detailing the progress of the little ones—how much they weighed, how they were developing, their latest accomplishments. Some bore postmarks and stamps; others had obviously been included in letters. Some had only the names of the children and their ages. These old postcards showed off exquisite handmade clothes—often family heirlooms from the generation before. Can you imagine the preparation that must have gone into making these pictures? The time with the photographer was scheduled. The clothes were meticulously ironed. The children were primped and dressed. How long before we see the results? How many should we order? We follow these same procedures still. Holding these photos from days gone by reminded me of how mothers through the generations prepare for the arrival of their children, how every detail of these new lives are recorded and shared with relatives and friends—at the amazing oneness of the experience. Whether we print the photos from our computers, save them in digital files or preserve them in scrapbooks, the desire to chronicle the lives of our children is eternal. I hope that this issue—the Baby Issue—provides an opportunity for you to create memories of a special time. Happy stitching!

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Heirloom Woven Labels

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A

CX

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NO MOTIF

CUSTOMER INFORMATION please print Name Street

Style: E

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SAME DAY SHIPPING on most orders. Let us send you everything you need to make the garments seen in Creative Needle!

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LETTERING Red or Gold Lurex Green or Goldenrod White or Gold Lurex Blue, Brown, Black or Pink

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LABEL BACKGROUND White, Cream, Grey, Black, Green or Navy White, Cream or Black Grey, Rose, Sky, Lilac, Black, Green or Navy White or Cream

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Please do not split quantities.

36 labels for $23.00 72 labels for $33.00 144 labels for $56.00 NJ residents add 7% sales tax Postage and handling $4.95 Total $ Allow 3-4 weeks delivery.

CN1108

LittleBy Judith Marquis Snowdrift GIRL’S VERSION OF LADIES’ SNOWDRIFT Sizes 2, 4, 6, 8, 10

ORDER FROM

Grace L. Knott Smocking Supplies Ltd. glksmocking.com

CALL TOLL FREE

1-877-206-8818


Pattern is an adaptation of Collars, Etc. Pattern Company “Layette” in Sea Island knit.

Smocking on Soft Knit Fabric Add a touch of smocking to soft knit fabric.


Sewing for Baby

s m o c k i n g

o n

k n i t

f a b r i c

Materials Pattern: Collars, Etc. Pattern Company “Layette” (adaptation of bubble and raglan sleeve gown) � Smocking design: Flower motif from “Forget Me Not” by Ellen McCarn Floss: DMC 208 (lt. lavender), 211 (very dark lavender), 225 (ultra very light shell pink), 472 (ultra light avocado green). Finca floss colors are 1969 (very light shell pink), 2687 (light lavender), 2615 (violet), and 4799 (light moss green)

for set-in sleeve. Note: Featured garment buttons in back. Smocking Mark guidelines for smocking according to pattern instructions. See “Pleating Knits” on page 65 for hints on handling this fabric. Use four strands of f loss for smocking. A new sharp needle works best on knit fabric. Using floss to match fabric, smock a holding row to establish pleats. This row will be trimmed when collar is added. Sewing Hints

Instructions

Refer to “Sewing with Knits,” CN Sept/Oct ’08 (or your sewing machine manual) for needle recommendations for sewing with knits. Use a slightly longer stitch for best results. Finish seams with serger or seam finishes as recommended in “Sewing for Baby” (CN Sept/Oct ’08).

Featured garment is an adaptation of the bubble from “Layette” by Collars, Etc. Pattern Company. Use pattern pieces for raglan-sleeved gown for skirt of gown. Match side seam lines, adjusting cutting lines

Placket: Handle knit fabric carefully to prevent stretching of placket. After attaching placket (according to pattern instructions), complete placket stitching by hand for best results.

Notions: 1 yd. X"-wide pink ribbon, four W" 4-hole buttons, T yd, Q"-wide elastic

December 2008

sewing for baby

By Betsy Sherman

Collar: Tack edges of collar pieces at center front to prevent gapping when collar is attached to garment. Grade seams and understitch.

Hem/Casing: Press up T" along hemline. At center front (right side) stitch two Q" buttonholes spaced approximately 1Q" apart. Stitch hem in place, keeping buttonholes free of stitching. Thread ribbonedged elastic through casing.  cn

KIT AVAILABLE FROM CREATIVE NEEDLE see page 83

Retail Source: Waechter’s Silk Shop Credits: Collars, Etc. Pattern Company, DMC, Ellen McCarn

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Henry A boy’s sleepshirt in seersucker plaid with details borrowed from a

man’s shirt brings smiles for everyone— from Dad to Grandma.

Pattern is “Baby’s Summer Clothes” by The Old Fashioned Baby in Spechler-Vogel pastel mini-plaid seersucker. See Suppliers Directory.


Heirloom Legacy h e n r y

By Carol Harris

Materials Pattern: “Baby’s Summer Clothes” by The Old Fashioned Baby Fabric: Spechler-Vogel pastel mini-plaid seersucker Buttons: i/ˆÔ" 4-hole motherof-pearl buttons from The Button Company Notions: Babyfacing fusible interfacing from The Carol Harris Company; French curve; 6" see-through plastic ruler; plastic snap; thread; floche

KIT AVAILABLE FROM CREATIVE NEEDLE see page 83

Retail Source: The Carol Harris Co. Credits:Bernina Artista, DMC, Mettler, Spechler-Vogel, The Button Company, The Old Fashioned Baby

I love those sweet gowns for baby boys adorned at the neck and sleeves with tiny trims; but more often than not, that adorable trim is the deal-breaker with today’s dad when it comes to sewing for their boys. You can get by with whimsical embroidery and maybe a few tucks or a little smocking, but the line is usually drawn when it

December 2008

comes to the edgings. Since we love to sew for our boys, the challenge is to come up with something that makes all the adults happy (including grandmothers), and it can be done! One way to make Dad a little more agreeable is to describe this garment as a sleepshirt rather than a gown. Since trims are reluctantly abandoned, we need to find other ways of building personality into the garment. A good place to look for inspiration is a man’s shirt. Changing the rounded Peter Pan collar to a pointed version, adding a chest pocket, using 4-hole shirt buttons, and transforming the traditional hem treatment into a curved shirttail hem are all details seen on men’s shirts that are easy changes to make. Many fabrics used for smocked children’s garments are actually menswear shirting fabrics, so fabric choices for projects like this are plentiful. A touch of embroidery on the pocket, as long as the subject matter hints at masculinity, is a welcome. For ease in laundering, fabrics that are somewhat wrinkle resistant and rugged enough to

withstand repeated washings are ideal. Seersuckers for summertime and brushed cottons for cool weather are extra friendly choices. Pre-washing the fabric makes it softer for a baby’s skin and the grainline is more easily straightened while the fabric is still very damp. Straightening the fabric is always important for a finely-sewn garment, but crucial when working with plaids. Instructions To make “Henry,” the following adaptations to the pattern are accomplished after fabric has been washed and straightened. All other construction techniques are thoroughly detailed in the pattern instructions. • Add inverted box pleat to center back. • Add knife pleats pointed toward sleeves to each side of front. • Cut and construct pocket. • Embroider and attach pocket. • Adapt collar. • Shape and hem lower edge.

15


Heirloom Legacy 

|

h e n r y

Box Pleat

1. Place pattern 1" from fold.

2. Stitch pleat 3" down.

Add inverted box pleat to center back: Position pattern with center back 1" from fabric fold. Photo 1. Cut out pattern piece. With right sides together, stitch pleat approximately 3" down from neck edge, 1" from fold. The exact depth is not critical, although pleat should end at the level where the armhole begins to curve toward the side seam. Open out box pleat and press pleat in place. Photos 2, 3, 4 and 5. Tip: The most secure and least bulky way to begin and end row of stitching is by shortening stitch length. Add knife pleats to each side of front: Prepare a block of fabric large enough to cut each front pattern piece. Add at least 1T" to the fabric width to accommodate the pleat, although several inches of additional fabric provides some leeway that can come in handy. Position the pattern on block of fabric and establish a pleat position at an approximate midpoint of shoulder seam, determining pleat depth as for back. Photo 6.

16

3. Place center of pleat at stitching line.

Remove paper pattern marking pleat. With right sides together, fold fabric along designated pleat line, keeping fold on grain. Stitch X" from fold to marked pleat depth. Press pleat toward armhole edge along entire block of fabric. Replace pattern on fabric, positioning pleat at the midpoint of shoulder seam. Cut out pattern piece. Repeat for opposite side.* Photos 6, 7 and 8. *Note: Since this sleepshirt has an asymmetrical closing, two different front pattern pieces are used, but the same method is used for each. Be sure that pleat depth is identical on each side and that it corresponds with pleat depth on the back. Also be sure to cut right and left sides of front, making sure that pattern piece and fabric are correctly oriented for boy version. Add interfacing to left and right fronts: Cut Babyfacing using the front pattern pieces as guides. Align a cut lengthwise edge of interfacing with the center front fold. Be sure to cut interfacing with fusible

Creative Needle  |  creativeneedlemag.com


4. Box pleat wrong side.

5. Box pleat right side.

A box pleat provides additional fullness.

Knife Pleat

6. Mark pleat at midpoint of shoulder seam.

December 2008

7. Stitch and press pleat.

8. Position pleat at midpoint of shoulder seam.

17


Heirloom Legacy 

|

h e n r y

10. Match plaid on pocket and shirt.

9. Interface area shown in yellow.

side up, keeping in mind the right front versus left front considerations. Place smooth (unfused) side of interfacing to right side of front and stitch, using a T" seam allowance along edge. Turn interfacing toward wrong side and fuse in place. Photo 9. Note: Using interfacing is a must to give garments the look, feel, and sew-ability they require. It keeps buttonholes from tunneling, provides support for buttons, diminishes the visibility of seam allowances. The correct interfacing adds the right amount of body and crispness needed in collars, cuffs, and plackets. Babyfacing is an ultra lightweight fusible woven tricot interfacing available exclusively through Carol Harris Company. I found this product after a search that spanned a couple of years and named it “Babyfacing” because it performs better in infant clothing and heirloom clothing than anything I have ever used. It is perfect for lightweight wovens because it gives just enough support and body without making the garment too stiff or crisp. Cut and construct pocket: Determine position for pocket on right front of garment. Consider the size of pocket and its positioning relative to armhole seam and collar. After determining pocket position, match plaid lines 18

before cutting pocket. Finished pocket should exactly match the plaid lines of sleepshirt. Cut rectangle for pocket 5V" long x 3V" wide. Fuse Babyfacing to wrong side of pocket piece and fold rectangle in half from top to bottom. Stitch a T" seam, leaving an opening to turn pocket. Embroider and attach pocket: Pocket embellishment ideas are endless. If you are in a time-crunch, look no further than the built-in stitches on your sewing machine. The scallop stitch that is so often seen on the edge of collars forms the water level in the aquarium tank symbolized by this pocket. Stitch #407 from the Bernina Artista 180 provides a continuous line of spheres which can be broken apart carefully and adorned with a few simple hand stitches to create goldfish. Use lightweight tear-away stabilizer to prevent spheres from tunneling. Use Article 240 Mettler machine sewing thread for the machine stitching. Use one strand of DMC floche to add the detail on the goldfish: a tiny fly stitch for the mouth, 2 larger fly stitches for the tail fins, and lazy daisies for the side fins. Note: See “Essentials” on page 71 for stitch illustrations. Position pocket on sleepshirt, aligning plaid lines of pocket over corresponding plaid lines of garment. Reinforce stitching at each upper corner of pocket. Photo 10. Creative Needle  |  creativeneedlemag.com


11. Reshape collar.

Adapt collar: After stitching sleepshirt fronts to back, compare collar pattern to neck edge. Adjust size of collar if necessary so that collars meet at center front and center back. To re-shape collar, simply use a ruler to create squared front and back corners, adjusting lines to blend with existing side and lower edges. Photo 11.

12. U  se a presser foot leveler at pivot points. Photo at top is without leveler.

Fuse Babyfacing to collar. With right sides together, stitch, trim, and turn collars. Use a point turner to shape corners and press collar sections thoroughly. Topstitch collars T" from outer edges. Note: The use of a presser foot leveler or shim could be helpful at pivot points. This tool is sometimes included in your sewing machine accessories, but can also be fashioned with several thicknesses of fabric or cardboard that match the thickness of the collar. Position shim under presser foot just behind—but adjacent to—collar. Photo 12. Shape and hem lower edge: No fancy pattern drafting skills are needed to reshape the lower edge of the sleepshirt. A French curve is a useful and inexpensive tool that can be purchased at most office supply stores. Using the back pattern piece, move the French curve along the lower edge at the side until you establish a line that is pleasing to you. Cut away the unwanted fabric as shown. Use the portion of pattern or fabric that has been trimmed away to shape each front lower edge. After sleepshirt has been constructed according to pattern instructions, hem shirt by turning under T" at lower edge and stitching close to fold. Trim close to stitching line. Fold under again and stitch hem in place. Photo 13.  cn December 2008

13. Reshape hem. 19


It’s easy to adapt a straight hem to a shirttail hem.


Making a

Point

Handkerchief Points By Tina Lewis

December 2008

21


Bring new life to vintage handkerchiefs by fashioning them into a wardrobe for baby.

A 

smocked sundress or sunsuit becomes a oneof-a-kind charmer with the addition of just one fancy corner of a vintage handkerchief.

Vintage handkerchiefs can be found at tag sales and estate sales, in second-hand stores and on the internet. They can be embroidered or printed and have simple or elaborate borders and edges. Some have embellishment on all four corners, some on only one corner. Vintage handkerchiefs are usually either cotton or linen. Materials (sunsuit/sundresses) Patterns: Creations by Michié “Sunsuit/ Sundress” (#132) Fabric: Spechler-Vogel Pima gingham cotton in pink, orange and blue; vintage handkerchiefs Smocking Designs: “Anna” by Ellen McCarn (orange sundress); “A Touch of Spring” by Allyne S. Holland (blue sunsuit); “Rocking Horses” by Ellen McCarn from the Designer Series designed by Cheryl Lohman (pink sundress) Note: Pink dress features an added handkerchiefedged underskirt. Smock plate (“Rocking Horses”) is adapted and colors changed to match handkerchief. The smock plate “A Touch of Spring” is from the personal collection of Tina Lewis and may no longer be available. Another geometric design may be substituted.

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Instructions 1. Start with the perfect handkerchief corner and coordinating fabric that will show it off—white linen, gingham, a stripe or even a small print. 2. Decide whether to stitch the smocking on the same fabric or on white or a contrasting fabric. White vintage handkerchiefs tend to take on an ecru tone, so if the smocking is to be stitched on white, make sure that the white of the fabric and the white of the handkerchief match. 3. Select a smocking plate that coordinates well with the design of the handkerchief. Figures and scenes tend to look best with geometric smocking. Simple handkerchief borders can handle figures in the smocking. 4. Select the floss colors for the smocking to match the colors in the handkerchief. Note: On the pink sundress, the smocking design “Rocking Horses” was adapted to coordinate with the handkerchief. Four colors of satin stitch dots (to match the granitos on the handkerchief) were stitched over two pleats, using four strands of floss. Dots were added on each of the four rows between the borders with three pleats between stitches of each vertical row (as each color moves diagonally down the four rows), and eight pleats between the different colored stitches along each of the four horizontal rows. 5. Sheer handkerchiefs can be made more opaque by backing them. Use a plain corner of the same handkerchief and whip the edges of the two layers together by hand or use plain batiste or handkerchief linen and press in the edges ¼ inch before whipping the edges of the two points together. 6. If the embroidery on the handkerchief is set too far from the edge, the handkerchief can be trimmed closer to the design and re-hemmed. If the handkerchief is in need of an interesting edge, consider re-cutting and hemming it, using decorative stitches. If the handkerchief has a wonderful edge, but no embroidery, stitch your own design in the corner.

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Pattern is Creations by Michié “Sunsuit/Sundress” in pink Pima gingham cotton. Smocking design is “Rocking Horses” by Ellen McCarn. See Suppliers Directory. 7. Wash and starch the handkerchief and establish a diagonal stitching line—about 5½ to 6½ inches long, depending on the size of the garment and the design of the handkerchief. Make sure the sides are equal so that the point is in the center. 8. Staystitch along the stitching line and ease the diagonal in slightly, as it tends to stretch. Cut X" outside the stay stitching, the same seam allowance as the pattern uses. 9. On pink sundress, add handkerchief-trimmed underskirt, using skirt pattern as guide. Shorten overskirt by 1Q" to allow underskirt to show beneath overskirt hem. (See photo.)

Shorten underskirt by 1Q", leaving a Q" seam allowance to attach handkerchief border. Attach

December 2008

completed underskirt to waistline seam of dress and handstitch bodice lining over seam. Cut handkerchief borders to width of the underskirt and desired depth plus 1". For example, if underskirt extends 1Q" below overskirt, handkerchief border should be cut 2Q". Piece handkerchief borders by hand; press under Q" at top edge of border. Press Q" of underskirt to right side. Slipstitch edges of handkerchief border to underskirt, stitching lower edge to pressed seam allowance and folded edge to underskirt. 10. After the sundress skirt is gathered or the front of the sunsuit is pleated, center handkerchief on front and pin a nd then ba ste into place. Proceed with the pattern construction, stitching finished top of the sunsuit or sundress to the handkerchiefembellished skirt of the sundress or front of the sunsuit.

23


Antique hankies are

artfully arranged to make this one-of-a-kind baby jacket. A single hankie point accents the yoke of a smocked sundress.

Pattern is Creations by Michié “Sunsuit/Sundress” in orange Pima gingham cotton. Jacket on Pattern Pull-out. Smocking design is “Anna” by Ellen McCarn. See Suppliers Directory.


Handkerchief/Batiste Layer 4. Arrange handkerchief points in pleasing designs on right sides of batiste pieces of fronts, back and sleeves. Keep in mind that seam allowances, binding, front overlap, and collar overlap will cover some of the designs. Place the most decorative points where they will be most prominent. Be aware of color placement. Beginning at lower edge, place handkerchiefs in a pleasing design.

Continue adding handkerchiefs until pattern piece is covered.

Materials (jacket) Pattern: “Handkerchief Jacket” on Pattern Pullout Fabrics: 12 or more coordinating handkerchiefs, embroidered or printed; Q yard white batiste (handkerchief backing); Q yard white cotton flannel (underlining); 1 yard cotton for lining and bias binding Notions: Lightweight fusible interfacing; three ¾" buttons This jacket is constructed of four layers—the patchwork of handkerchiefs, the batiste to which the handkerchiefs are stitched, a layer of flannel for warmth, and the lining. The flannel layer can be eliminated for summer jackets or warmer climates. If omitting the flannel layer, lining fabric may be visible through sheer handkerchiefs lined with batiste. Choose either a white lining for jacket or opaque fabric for handkerchief backing.

Instructions 1. Wash and press all fabrics and handkerchiefs. Lightly starch handkerchiefs. 2. Cut front, back and sleeve pattern pieces from batiste, flannel and lining. Cut collar from batiste, interfacing and lining. 3. Using your favorite method, prepare 2Q yards of ¼" double-folded bias binding from lining fabric.

December 2008

5. Pi n ha nd kerch iefs in place on batiste, trimming away handkerchiefs beyond edges of batiste. 6. Trim underlap: Unpin each handkerchief, working with one side at a time. Trim underlap of handkerchiefs to ¼". Re-pin. Unpin at remaining side of handkerchief and trim as before. Baste all handkerchiefs in place, making sure trimmed underlap of each handkerchief is covered.

Pin handkerchiefs in place and trim beyond edge of pattern piece.

7. When all underlying ha nd kerch iefs a re trimmed, slipstitch around edge of each handkerchief through u n d e r l y i n g ha nd kerch iefs a nd batiste. 8. Baste around each front, the back, and each sleeve through batiste/handkerchief layers, ¼" from outside edge.

Carefully unpin each handkerchief and trim underlap.

25


Collar 9. Arrange handkerchief pieces on batiste collar piece, using small leftover points and edges. 10. Pin and slipstitch handkerchief pieces to collar batiste; baste around collar through all layers, ¼" from outside edge. 11. Place prepared handkerchief-covered collar on interfacing, wrong sides together, and fuse in place per manufacturer’s instructions. 12. Place interfaced collar on collar lining, wrong sides together, and baste ¼" from outside edge.

between notches. Pin sleeves into jacket, right sides together, matching shoulders, notches, and underarm seams. Draw up staystitching slightly to fit armhole. Baste, stitch, trim seams to ¼" and press toward sleeves.

Sleeve Lining 23. Staystitch armhole of each sleeve lining along seamlines. Trim seam allowance to ¼" and press to wrong side.

13. Bind outer edge of collar with bias binding by encasing collar edges in folded binding, basting binding in place through all layers and then slipstitching binding to collar on both sides.

24. Fold sleeve linings with right sides together; stitch

14. Staystitch inner edge of collar along seamline. Set collar aside.

together, matching seams. Baste ¼" from edge.

Flannel Layer 15. Place prepared handkerchief-covered fronts and back with right sides up on corresponding flannel pieces; baste together ¼" from outside edges. 16. With right sides together, pin fronts to back at shoulder and side seams; stitch. Trim seams to ¼" and press open.

Lining 17. With right sides together, pin lining fronts to lining back at shoulder and side seams and stitch. Trim seams to ¼" and press open. 18. Staystitch neck edge along seamline between center fronts. Clip curves and trim seam allowance to ¼". Press seam allowance to wrong side. 19. Pin lining to jacket, wrong sides together, and baste ¼" from armhole edges and outer edges, leaving neck edge free.

Sleeves

26

22. Staystitch armhole of each sleeve along seamline

underarm seams. Trim seams to ¼" and press open. 25. Slip each sleeve lining into each sleeve with wrong sides together. Pin lower edges of sleeve/lining 26. Bind edges with bias binding, turning in ends of binding ¼" at sleeve seam and neatly slipstitching in place. 27. Pin armhole of lining to armhole seamline of jacket, matching shoulders. Slipstitch folded edge of lining in place around armhole, easing in lining as necessary.

Attach Collar 28. Pin bound collar to neckline with lining side of collar to right side of jacket, matching center fronts and shoulders. Keep jacket lining free. 29. Baste, stitch, and trim the seam to ¼". Press seam toward jacket. 30. Slipstitch folded lining edge in place over neckline seam.

Bias Binding Bind entire outer edge of jacket with bias binding, working from right center front to left center front. Turn in ends

20. Place prepared handkerchief-covered sleeves on flannel sleeves, right sides up, and baste together ¼" from outside edges.

of binding ¼" at center fronts and slipstitch in place.

21. Fold each sleeve with right sides together; stitch underarm seam. Trim seams to ¼" and press open.

Work buttonholes on right jacket front. Sew buttons to

Buttonholes corresponding points on left jacket center front. 

cn

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Pattern is Creations by Michié “Sunsuit/Sundress” in blue Pima gingham cotton. See Suppliers Directory. Smocking design is “A Touch of Spring” by Allyne S. Holland.


New Arrivals Only the finest fabrics and most delicate stitching will do to welcome the new arrival. Sheer batiste, dotted Swiss and soft flannel provide sweet caresses for that special newcomer.

Pattern is “Layette� by Collars, Etc. Pattern Company. For complete information on this garment, see page 79.


Pattern is “Layette� by Collars, Etc. Pattern Company in Spechler-Vogel satin-faced batiste in white. For complete information on this garment, see page 79.


Pattern is from the book “Kimono Sleeve Daygowns� (Limited Edition #201) by Ginger Snaps Designs in white cashmere flannel. For complete information on this garment, see page 77.


Pattern is “Baby Apron” #122 by Creations by Michié in Swiss Nelona batiste in ecru (dress) and blue (collar). For complete information on this garment, see page 74.


Pattern is “Baby’s Smocked Layette” by The Old Fashioned Baby in vanilla dotted Swiss. For complete information on this garment created by Dorothy Cheek Still, see page 76.


Patterns are “Baby Diaper Shirt 1” and “Baby Diaper Covers” by Ginger Snaps Designs in creamy yellow baby wale piqué (shirt and diaper cover) and blue microcheck (lining and trim). For complete information on this garment, see page 76.


Receiving Blankets soft cuddly warm Ask any new mother and she’ll agree: “You can’t have too many.” See page 78 for more information.


Profile

By Marie Yolande

Italia Invita International Lace & Embroidery Forum Needleart Heaven On Earth After hearing some high praises from many of my European stitching friends regarding the Italia Invita International Lace and Embroidery Forum, I ventured

Marie Yolande with Antoinetta M. Menossi.

out to the east coast of Italy in May 2005 with the mission of finding out for myself if the International Lace and Embroidery Forum can be that special. The decision to attend the forum and take some embroidery classes turned out to be one of the most enjoyable experiences I ever had as a needleworker. In my 30-some years of traveling throughout Europe

December 2008

attending numerous needlework shows, it was such a pleasant surprise to find out that the Lace and Embroidery Forum was beyond compare! I thought I had arrived in needleart heaven. The teachers and organizers of the show were like angels sent from above to guide me though this enchanting stitching experience. Visitors from 19 countries all over the world attended that show, and I saw a great concentration of needlework treasures in one location. Upon arrival, I was enthralled to see exhibits of traditional laces and embroidered samples from 15 regions of Italy and its nearby islands tastefully displayed in individual booths with a large number of the pieces being in whitework. The artisan-type items characterized some of the well-known regional lace and embroidery techniques such as Parma work, Punto Antico, Bandera, Punto Estense, Punto Aquileia, Casalguidi embroidery, Aemilia Ars and Panicale needlelaces, Venetian lace, Buratto lace and embroidery, Ligurian lace, Casena lace, Rosa del Salento, Catherine de Medici lace, Assisi embroidery, Reticello embroidery, Florentine embroidery, Orvieto lace, only to name a few. In each stall, members of each needlework association were enthusiastically demonstrating techniques from regions recognized for that particular stitch. The embroidery techniques ranged from thread painting, drawn work, cutwork,

53


and pulled thread to counted thread. The bobbin and needlelace techniques were well represented in a wide variety of examples, including filet work. The refined quality of the craftsmanship and choice of artistic original designs were outstanding. It was absolutely amazing to observe such a large quantity of newly made samples on display in such a vast array of handmade lace and embroidery techniques. I was delighted to see work from young people and contemporary designs executed with classical stitches. Books with Italian and English texts based on local techniques were offered showing clear photographs and precise diagrams on how to successfully execute each one. A portion of the show featured some antique pieces as well as a textile competition in the venue of embellished handbags. The workshops were given in

54

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two to five different languages. Some of the classes lasted a full day while others were more like a 2or 3-hour introduction of a lace or embroidery technique. On the dealers’ floor, there were vendors from Belgium, France, Germany, Holland, Spain, Switzerland and Denmark. They offered all kinds of quality merchandise relating to needlework— fine threads, tools, publications, fabrics, antique and new laces, sewing and stitching implements, and so much more. The wide acceptance of credit cards was the magic potion for any passionate needleworker or lacemaker. Such an exceptional symposium Marie Yolande arranges is the result of the driving force of five dedicated ladies—Antonia tours all over the world with Busi, Christina Notore, Fiorella needlework lovers in mind. Gaggi, Rosalba Pepi and Thessy For hands-on workshops in Schoenholzer Nichols—who on recent years, the popularity of the lace and embroidery, join October 18, 2001 founded a cultural forum has grown so tremendously Marie in Italy. For more association named Italia Invita that in May 2009 the International information, contact her at International Lace and Embroidery Lace and Embroidery Forum will yolande@marieyolande.com. Forum. Its aim is to promote the take place in the large Parma Fair precious Italian artisan tradition and facility of Central Italy, a location heritage in the fields of lacemaking and embroidery known as the food capital of Italy. The forum’s theme and provide an opportunity for members to meet, is “Weddings Italian Style.” Over 80 exhibitors and teach, exhibit and value their works in Italy and abroad. 70 dealers’ stands are expected. As an added bonus, a These common large European Antique Show will be held next door. goals would give What could possibly be better than that? Please pinch groups, schools me so that I know I am not dreaming! and individuals a chance to be Marie Yolande has been organizing and leading recognized on a needlework related tours to Europe for over 10 years and social, economic returns to Italy with a group in May 2009. She will visit a nd cu lt u ra l lace, textile, embroidery and costume locations in Milan, level. In order to Florence, Venice, Parma and Rapallo. Marie Yolande accomplish these will also attend the International Lace and Embroidery objectives. the Forum where the tour participants will have an first bi-annual opportunity to take hands-on workshops in various lace conference was and embroidery techniques. For a virtual tour of the trip, held in Rimini, visit her web site at www.marieyolande.com or contact in May 2003. In her at yolande@marieyolande.com.

December 2008

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Priscilla A tailored heirloom dress is simple and charming in pink batiste.

Pattern is “The Tuck Dress� by Collars, Etc. Pattern Co. in pink Bearissima I cotton Swiss batiste from Bear Threads. Collars are white Bearissima II batiste trimmed with entredeux and gathered lace edging. All materials from Continental Sewing. See Suppliers Directory.


t o

A Basic Guide

c o l o r

a n d

e m b r o i d e r y

B y T ru dy H o r n e

Pattern: “The Tuck Dress” by Collars, Etc. Pattern Company Fabric: Bear Threads pink Bearissima I 100% cotton Swiss batiste (dress); white Bearissima II 100% cotton Swiss batiste (collars) Notions: Entredeux; X"wide lace edging; DMC 50 fine cotton sewing thread (dress); 10 sharp needle (embroidery); size 70/10 universal needle (dress) Floss: DMC blanc neige (white), 745 (light pale yellow) and 3364 (pine green) Buttons: T" mother-ofpearl buttons (dress front); W" buttons (back closure)

Retail Source: Continental Sewing Credits: Bear Threads Ltd., Collars, Etc. Pattern Company, DMC, Janome

December 2008

Color, ornamentation, scale and detail should be considered carefully when planning a sewing project. Whether making an evening gown, a tailored jacket or a baby dress, these important elements of a garment should work together, achieving harmony and balance. With fine children’s wear, certain guidelines for all of these components need to be observed. Fabric colors that might work for an adult may not be suitable for young children. Intense colors should be reserved for older children and used sparingly, breaking them up with contrasting white, off white or other colors. Pastels work best with limited color schemes, while white fabrics provide a pristine canvas for multicolored embroidery or trims. If ornamentation is elaborate, the color scheme should be simple. Generous amounts of embellishment should have some common theme or repeat, and correlate with other elements in the garment. Delicate pastel embroidery goes well with a dainty white dress; the same embellishment, however, would look odd on brown gabardine pants. Consider scale when selecting fabrics and styles. Don’t put large flowered prints or leg-o’-mutton sleeves on a

two year old as these will overwhelm such a small frame. Similarly, an oversized appliqué on an infant’s daygown will overpower the allotted space, so keep the embellishments on a corresponding scale with the garment as well.

a basic guide

Materials

Soft color, limited contrast and delicate embroidery work together on the featured pink batiste dress. Other details, some obvious and some hidden, coordinate to produce a tailored, elegant heirloom. Here are some of the important details.

Quality Materials Fine fabric does make a difference, especially for dressier garments. There are many grades of batiste with proprietary names, but the highest quality batistes are 100% cotton and made in Switzerland. A good yardstick for measuring the quality of batiste is the price tag. Use fine 100% cotton thread such as DMC 50.

Precise Tucks Tucks that are precisely on-grain will look more attractive and uniform. Have either the stitching lines or folds of the tucks on grain.

57


A Basic Guide 

1 2

t o

c o l o r

a n d

e m b r o i d e r y

Pinwheel Flower Use one strand of floss doubled over with the two cut ends knotted, and a #10 sharp needle. Overview: Thread is wrapped under pins and tacked down at four pin points. Center is filled with French knots. Instructions

3 4 5 6 7

58

1. Make a cross with two straight pins. Distance between pinholes of one pin should not be greater than T".

Delicate Embroidery Work a pinwheel flower at the bottom of four pleats in each section. The finished diameter of each flower should be no greater than T". For all embroidery, use a 10 sharp needle and one strand of floss doubled over.

2. Come up from wrong side near one pinhole. Wrap thread under pins.

White outer wraps for pinwheel: Wrap three times before tacking down at four pinpoints.

3. After coming full circle on the last (third) wrap, sink needle just outside circle to finish wraps.

Fill the white (DMC blanc neige) circle with French knots (DMC 745). Add lazy daisy leaves (DMC 3364) to each flower.

4. Bring needle up just inside circle. Circle of wrapped thread is now ready to be tacked down (couched).

Note: See illustrations for pinwheel flower at left; for French knot and lazy daisy/detached chain, see “Essentials” on pages 70-71.

5. Sink needle outside circle again, bringing needle up inside circle at next (second) pinpoint. 6. Sink needle outside circle, bringing needle up inside circle at next (third) pinpoint. Continue in same manner until circle of threads has been couched at all four pinpoints. Tie off on wrong side.

Narrow Sleeve Band The key to a neat, narrow sleeve band is a second row of stitching, stitched a scant T" from seamline and trimmed closely. This second row of stitching assures even band width and provides a ridge over which the bias fabric is snugly wrapped.

7. Fill center with French knots. Note: The distance between pinholes, thread type and size, number of strands and number of wraps can alter the flower’s appearance. Experiment for desired look.

RS

WS bias band 2nd row of stitching, trimmed

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Entredeux When adding entredeux to the edge of a faced collar, the following technique produces a very neat appearance and almost invisible stitches when viewed from the right side: Trim fabric from one side of entredeux; notch other side. Steam the entredeux in a curve to match contour of collar. With the wrong side of collar and entredeux facing up, whip entredeux to collar. Each stitch should catch a few threads of the under collar (collar facing) only and go in each hole of the entredeux. In other words, don’t stitch through both layers of collar when stitching the collar side.

Tip: Slip one layer of organdy between the two fabric layers of the folded back self-facing. After making buttonhole, open facing as much as possible and trim organdy close to buttonhole stitching. Always practice buttonholes on a scrap of the garment fabric first.

creations made by her and her students. Ann shares her method for producing fine French seams with Swiss batiste.

Running Stitch Hem Use an 11 sharp needle and one strand of DMC 50 thread, lightly waxed. Pin hem in place. Make tiny running stitches close to fold, going in and out of the fabric layers and picking up no more than y/⁄fl" of fabric with each stitch. This is a dainty, decorative, fast and secure hem.

• With wrong sides together, stitch the first seam W" from raw edges for a Q" seam allowance. Note: See “Stitching Guide for French Seams” below.

hem

/ /

under collar WS garment

magnified

Dainty Buttons Use T" diameter (or smaller) motherof-pearl buttons to decorate the front pleat. For garment’s closure, use W" diameter buttons. Fine Buttonholes Many sewing machines have buttonhole selections that include one specifically for fine fabrics. If using a manual buttonhole, adjust the stitch width to produce a small, narrow buttonhole. Use DMC 50 thread and size 70/10 universal needle.

December 2008

French Seams In her sewing and teaching career, Ann Schaum of Montgomery, A labama, has overseen the production of over 3,000 heirloom

• Use a 70/10 universal needle, a stitch length of 2 and a regular presser foot for all stitching.

• Trim seam to q/⁄fl". • Place garment on ironing board with seam side facing up. With iron, steam press the tiny seam flat (the seam allowance is too small to press open), then back and forth several times. Now press seam to one side. • Flip garment over so that seam is facing down. Press seam again with the allowance underneath in direction from previous step. • Fold seam, right sides together, taking care that it doesn’t roll. Crease fabric first with fingers then with iron, having seam exactly on fold. If these steps are followed, minimal pinning will be needed. • Stitch the second sea m approximately V" from fold, encasing the raw edges of fabric. cn

Stitching Guide for French Seams The first stitching of a French seam should be the distance necessary for the second stitching to be V" from folded edge.

Pattern Seam Allowance T" Q" X"

First stitching (from raw edge) V" W" Q"

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Stitch Wise Baby Bottle Cozies! Made in the machine embroidery hoop with no patterns to cut out. Not only do they “cute” up a baby bottle, but cozies also are a great way to insulate the bottle. They make an adorable baby shower gift too. The Bee is shown here. The design set also includes a lady bug and a firefly. Super easy to make!

Go-Go Baby Burpies! Made in the embroidery machine with no patterns to cut out. Sewing with Minky fabric has never been easier! No stretching, no pulling! Yay! Go-Go Baby Burpies are great for moms on the go-go! Just the right size for when you don’t want to take a full sized burp cloth with you. Easily fits into a small diaper bag or purse.

Meet Mr. Monkey Pockets! Made in the machine embroidery hoop with no patterns to cut out. Mr. Monkey pockets has a pocket in the back that is great for a pacifier keeper or a fun way to take a few crayons with you while you are on the go. It even makes a great cell phone holder. A handy snap makes it easy on, easy off, your purse or diaper bag strap. Super easy to make!

For more information about Go-Go Baby Burpies, Meet Mr. Monkey Pockets & Baby Bottle Cozies, please visit www.digistitches.com.

Empressa S330 The new Empressa S330 reduces ironing time and leaves all types of fabrics and linens perfectly pressed in a matter of minutes! Using steam to eliminate wrinkles to give a crisp, clean finish. The NEW easy-to-use contoured handle featuring the steam activation switch in the center, allows users to lower the handle and gently squeeze to produce steam. Simply open the Empressa S330 and lay the fabric on the surface. Select the desired temperature best suited for the fabric from the digital control panel and lower the

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top surface to hover just above the material. Give the fabric some steam and press, fully lowering the top surface. The evenly distributed heat and powerful bursts of steam make this advanced steam press incredibly versatile, giving basic home pressers, quilters and sewers professional results. Safety precautions of this inventive steam press include a childproof safety lock and automatic shut-off. The innovative Empressa S330 will revolutionize the way consumers care for their clothing! For more information, please visit

www.reliablecorporation.com.

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Melly and me Australian

designing

sisters

Melanie

Hurlston

and

Rosalie Quinlan have come together to design a range of fun and fresh patterns under the label “Melly & me.” Melly & me’s designs are full of quirky, cute and whimsical toys suitable for all ages, wearable contemporary purses, as well as some vibrant quilts. Melly and me recently released their first block of the month children’s quilt, “Once upon a time” which brings all of your favorite fairy tales together in a mix of stitchery and vibrant fabric piecing. After their great success in 2007, they returned to Houston Quilt Market to share their designs with the US market. For further information on a store near you, visit mellyandme.typepad.com.

DOVO Scissors From Solingen, Germany The Solingen name is so synonymous with superior German craftsmanship that the German government protects the name. DOVO produces a wide variety of scissors and shears. For sewing and embroidery enthusiasts, they have a scissor or shear for every need! They have the basic 5", 6", and 7" shears (for lefties, too!) that are a staple in every sewing basket, but they also have ‘specialty’ scissors as well. They make many styles of embroidery scissors, as well as pinking shears, tiny 1 nub lace scissors, airplane scissors (round nose), mini shears that are just 3½ inches, and their newest style, an antique reproductions embroidery scissor with rose gold handles. For more information, visit www.vaune.com

Colonial RotaRazr ™ Cutting Blades Yes, another new rotary cutting blade. But this one is precision engineered using cutting-edge technology from Solingen, Germany, the blade capital of the world. The secondary edge absorbs some of the stress on the outer tip of the blade, so the tip is not taking all the cutting pressure. The angled grinding seen on the edge of the blade creates a “catch and cut” action, which means less fabric slippage. The double-angle edge even sounds and feels different than ordinary rotary blades. Perfect cutting for fabric, batting, paper, leather, film, foil, vinyl and more. For more information, visit www.colonialneedle.com.

December 2008

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Choosing subtle colors to complement the fabric adds balance and texture to a smocking design.

Pattern is “Betsy” by Children’s Corner in Fabric Finders floral stripe. See Suppliers Directory.


Smock Plate

e l l e n

s

w a t e r c o l o r s

B y C at h e r i n e L aw l e r

Pattern: Children’s Corner “Betsy” Fabric: Fabric Finders pink floral stripe Floss: Anchor floss 214 (light juniper), 895 (medium rose wine), and 968 (light wineberry) Instructions Pleat 8 rows. Rows 1 and 8 are holding rows. Backsmock Row 1 with floss to match fabric. Row 8 is not smocked. Row 2: Using Anchor 895, and beginning at center valley with a

Row 2 Row 3 Row 4 Row 5 Row 6 Row 7

December 2008

down cable, cable across row. Turn work; complete row. Using Anchor 968, work a row of half space baby waves directly underneath cable row, centering design with an up cable. Continue across row according to graph. Turn work; complete row. Row 3Q: Using Anchor 968, beginning at center valley with a down cable, work a row of halfspace baby waves. Row 4: Using Anchor 895, work a row of half space baby waves as on Row 3. Row 4Q: Using Anchor 214, repeat previous row. Row 5: Using Anchor 214, beginning at center valley with

an up cable, stitch a 3-step trellis down to Row 6, down cable; 3-step trellis up to Row 5, up cable; halfspace wave to Row 5Q, down cable; half space wave up to Row 5, up cable. Repeat pattern (two sets of 3-step trellises and one set of half space waves) across row. Turn work; complete row.

smock plate

Materials

Row 5Q: Using Anchor 895, repeat Row 5. Row 6: Using Anchor 968, repeat previous row. 

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Retail Source: The Old Fashioned Baby Credits: Anchor, Children’s Corner, Fabric Finders

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C

h o o s i n g

C

o l o r s

B y C at h e r i n e L aw l e r One of the most important elements in smocking is choosing floss colors for the smocking design. Color choice can make the difference between a beautiful handmade heirloom and something which looks homemade. Floss colors should complement, rather than compete with, the fabric. However, we want to avoid having the smocking disappear or “washing out” on the fabric. This can be especially tricky when working with printed fabrics. The colors used for the featured bishop dress are an example of

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choosing colors that complement rather than compete. The flowers in the printed fabric are in two shades of rose—one dark and one lighter—and the leaves are two shades of green. For the floss, both of the rose colors and one green color were pulled from the print. The simple design balances light and dark colors. For fabrics with white backgrounds, select a color that is dark enough to show up on the fabric but not so dark as to overwhelm the print. Choose two or three colors from the print, rather than using every color

in the fabric. Sometimes, using only one of the colors in the fabric is effective. This monochromatic look is simple to accent with flowerettes or satin-stitched dots. This method lends a tailored yet elegant look to smocking. If you are unsure of how certain colors will look together, pleat a few rows on a small piece of fabric and stitch the design in selected colors. Pleating the fabric emphasizes colors. When three strands of floss are stitched on top of the pleats, the intensity of the color may be quite different than what you expected!  cn

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P leating Knits By Lynn Bingham The Carol Harris Co.

When pleating knit fabric, you may want to adapt the pleating process in order to pleat only the part of the garment that will actually be smocked. This method eliminates unneeded pleating rows and reduces needle marks in the knit fabric. Patterns such as “Smocked Baby Daygown” by Collars Etc. and “Grace Knott Baby Nightie” are examples of patterns that have small sections of smocking. Using iron-on dots for pleating knits is an option. Simply follow package instructions for applying dot transfer. Stitch as instructed to form pleats for smocking. Pink Sea Island knit is available from The Carol Harris Co. See Suppliers Directory.  cn

1. With all needles removed, run fabric through pleater as if you are pleating.

2. When the area to be smocked is reached, reinsert only the number of needles required for design.

3. Replace bar to hold needles in place and begin pleating.

4. When smocking area is pleated, remove needles. Run remainder of fabric through pleater without needles as in Step 1.

5. Pleated garment shown is “Smocked Baby Daygown” by Collars Etc. which features a small square of smocking.

6. “Knott’s Dots” from the Grace Knott Company are smocking transfer dots which are ironed onto the wrong side of the fabric allowing stitchers to bypass using a pleater altogether.

December 2008

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Bella Baby Daygown & Sacque

By Suzanne Hebert


A delicate daygown has the fresh look of spring in robin’s egg Swiss Nelona batiste. An embroidered flannel sacque adds a little warmth.


Instructions Daygown Construct gown according to pattern instructions. Transfer embroidery design (see Pattern Pull-out) to front of gown, placing design between buttonholes. Using one strand of floss and an 11 sharp needle, backstitch curved lines in DMC 818. Add French knots at regular intervals to bias binding at neck and sleeve edges. Stitch French knots with one strand of DMC 776 and an 11 sharp needle. See “Essentials” on page 70 for French knot instructions. Delicate French knots accent the neck binding.

Bella

Baby Daygown & Sacque Carefully space French knots around each sleeve binding.

Sacque

Retail Source: Adrianne’s Attic Credits: DMC, The Old Fashioned Baby

M aterials • Pattern: The Old Fashioned Baby “Priscilla’s Layette” • Fabric: Swiss Nelona batiste in robin’s egg (daygown); pink Austrian cashmere flannel (sacque) • Embroidery Design: See Pattern Pull-out • Notions: Two T" mother-of-pearl 4-hole buttons (sacque); five T" mother-of-pearl square 2-hole buttons (daygown); size 8 milliner’s needle (bullions), size 11 sharp (remainder of embroidery)

Construct sacque according to pattern instructions. Using one strand of DMC 964, work running stitch ¾" from edge of sacque. Transfer embroidery design (see Pattern Pull-out) to sacque, placing design on fronts ½" from running stitches. Following embroidery legend, stitch design using one strand of floss and a size 8 milliner’s needle for bullions; use an 11 sharp needle for remainder of design. Cut two lengths of ribbon, each 18" long. Fold edge of ribbon under about ½". Secure ribbons to each side of sacque neckline using a 4-hole mother-of-pearl button attached with 12-14 wrap bullion roses. Use a size 8 milliner’s needle and one strand of floss. Use DMC 335 for first bullion; DMC 818 for second and third bullions; DMC 964 for fourth and fifth bullions. Refer to illustrations for placement.  cn

• Ribbon: l yd. X"-wide 100% silk satin ribbon in robin’s egg • Floss: DMC 335 (rose), 776 (medium pink), 818 (baby pink) and 964 (light seagreen) 68

1st bullion

2nd & 3rd bullions

4th & 5th bullions

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Noteworthy Events

november 2008 Now thru Winterthur Needlework Exhibition Jan 9 Who’s Your Daddy?

  Families in Early American Needlework . . . . . . . . Winterthur, DE Contact Victoria Saltzman at vsaltzman@winterthur.org A “threaducational” look at how early Americans honored family ties through needlework.

january 2009 Jan 11 – 19 Embroiderer’s Guild of America

Callaway School of Needlearts Exhibit. . . . . . . . . . . . Pine Mtn., GA Contact Eileen Kee at rookery56@bellsouth.net or 478-731-0465 or www.callawaygardens.com/needleart Thirty-eighth Annual Exhibit open to the public. Sponsored by the Georgia Chapter EGA and Callaway Gardens.

Jan 30 – Sugarloaf Craft Festival . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chantilly, VA Feb 1 Contact www.sugarloafcrafts.com or 800-210-9900. Juried show of contemporary crafts and fine art. Consistently ranked by craft industry publications as some of the top fine arts and crafts festivals in the nation. Over 250,000 people attend the shows around the country each year. Artists and exhibitors may apply through contact above. Also on: Mar 13 – Mar 15. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Somerset, NJ Mar 20 – Mar 22. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Oaks, PA Mar 27 – Mar 29 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hartford, CT

Apr 3 – Apr 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . Gaithersburg, MD Apr 17 – Apr 19 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Novi, MI Apr 24 – Apr 26. . . . . . . . . . . . . Timonium, MD May 1 – May 3. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chantilly, VA

february 2009 Feb 5 – 7 Quilt Show

Robertsdale United Methodist Church . . . . . . . . . . Robertsdale, AL Contact Betty Gwaltney at 251-947-5354 or Mary Barnhill at 251-964-5169. Over 300 quilts will be displayed featuring “theme rooms” with quilts related to weddings, gardens, children and holidays.

December 2008

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Essentials

This guide helps Creative Needle readers perfect stitches and learn new techniques necessary to complete many of the projects found in each issue. X  Look in upcoming issues for an expanding library of embroidery and smocking techniques, helpful hints, and more. X In this issue learn to make French Knots, Lazy Daisy/Detached Chain Stitches and Fly Stitches. {Embroidery Stitches}

French Knot

Use a #10 crewel needle when working French knots on fine fabrics such as Swiss batiste. To make larger French knots, use multiple strands of floss and a larger needle if necessary.

Bring threaded needle to right side of fabric. Hold thread with left thumb and index finger about 1" from the fabric. Hold needle in right hand.

See French Knot on page 58.

3 Keeping the thread taut, insert needle halfway through fabric very close to where thread emerged.

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1

2 Wrap thread around needle once. A true French knot has one wrap only. For larger knots, use more strands.

4 Pull thread until the knot is closed and sitting on top of the fabric. Pull needle to the wrong side and secure thread.

5 Complete French knot.

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{Embroidery Stitches}

 Lazy Daisy/ Detached Chain

1

Lazy daisy/detached chain is a looped stitch commonly used to make buds and leaves.

Bring the needle up at A. Holding the thread down in a loop with the thumb, go back down at A.

See Lazy Daisy/Detached Chain on page 58.

2 Bring the needle out at B.

3 Pull thread gently.

Take needle back down, making a short straight stitch over the loop to anchor it.

Fly Stitch

Use this single-looped stitch individually, grouped in rows, or grouped to fill a particular shape.

1 Bring the needle up at A. Go down diagonally at B, making a V-shaped loop. Bring the needle out at C, over the working thread. To make a single fly stitch, take the needle down at D, making a vertical straight stitch to hold the loop in place.

December 2008

4

2 To make a vertical row of fly stitches, repeat stitches A, B, and C as in simple fly stitch, but move the needle down the desired distance, go down at D and come up diagonally at the new A. This makes the catch stitch longer than for a single fly stitch.

See Fly Stitch on page 18.

3 Repeat stitch sequence making sure A and B are the same distance apart and level.

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Creative Needle Essentials

Bullion Knot

Use a milliner’s needle #9, #10, or #11, and one or two strands of floss. Use a #5, #6, #7, or #8 milliner’s needle when using three or four strands of floss.

1 Bring the needle up at A. Pull the thread through. Insert needle at B and come back out at A–do not pull through. Make sure the thread is positioned to the right of the needle.

4 Hold the thread taut and push all the wraps down the needle.

7 Pull the thread all the way through and tug slightly, forming a small pleat in the fabric.

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2 Raise the needle slightly off the fabric and wind thread clockwise around needle. The number of wraps is determined by the distance between A and B.

5 Hold the wraps snugly with the left index finger and thumb and gently begin to pull the needle through the fabric and wraps.

8 Relax the thread, allowing the knot to lay back towards B. It may be necessary to run the needle under the wraps while pulling the thread to smooth them out.

See Bullion Knot on page 77.

3 Place the left index finger behind the needle and gently push the first wrap down the needle. Work the desired number of wraps around the needle. Keep wraps snug around needle.

6 Maintain the tension on the wraps with thumb and index finger while pulling the needle and thread through the wraps. (Illustration does not show thumb and index finger.)

9 Take the needle down at B and tie off.

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The split stitch is generally used to outline a shape providing a wall for fill stitches, which creates a smooth edge for embroidery designs.

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[HOW TO] Find it…Make it…Stitch it

Page 32 Pattern: “Baby Apron” #122 by Creations by Michié; see Pattern Pull-out for hem design and adapted tuck guide Fabric: Swiss Nelona batiste in ecru and blue Embroidery Design: “Heirloom Embroidery Book” from Creations by Michié (dress); see Pattern Pull-out for collar design Floss: DMC ecru and 3753 (ultra very light antique blue) Notions: Ivory lace (L-2/890); seven 1/4" buttons

Materials from Barb’s Sewing Center. See Suppliers Directory.

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3. Draw line to connect sleeve halves, using a ruler and pencil. Cut out new sleeve pattern.

of baby apron, matching side seams. Stitch, using a T" seam; clip curves. Turn Madeira trim to wrong side of baby apron and press.

4. Attach sleeve to garment using “Girl’s Sleeve” instructions in pattern. Madeira Hem

4. Along stitching line, turn raw edge of Madeira trim to wrong side and pin. Press hem and baste in place. Along back of apron, turn raw edge under and slipstitch in place.

Baby Apron By Michié Mooney

Vintage Sleeve 1. Trace boy’s sleeve pattern onto lightweight interfacing; cut out. Draw a line at center of sleeve pattern and cut along line.

2. Tape sleeve halves onto a separate piece of interfacing, adding 1½" at center of sleeve.

1. See Pattern Pull-out for Madeira hem pattern. Starch and press fabric for hem pieces. Using a water-soluble marker, transfer pattern to fabric. Stay stitch V" from marked cutline using a short straight stitch. Cut out hem pieces. Clip curves to stitching line.

2. With right sides together, match notches and pin ends of Madeira trim. Stitch, using a X" seam allowance. Trim seams to T" and press open.

5. Using a short running stitch, stitch Madeira trim to apron close to folded edge

6. Remove basting threads.

3. With right sides together, pin Madeira trim to lower edge

December 2008

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Page 34 Patterns: “Baby Diaper Shirt 1” and “Baby Diaper Covers” (book) by Ginger Snaps Designs Fabrics: Creamy yellow baby wale piqué (shirt and diaper cover) and blue microcheck (lining and bias trim) Embroidery designs: See Pattern Pullout Floss: DMC 310 (black), 472 (ultra light avocado green), 741 (medium tangerine) and 3325 (light baby blue)

Page 33

Notions: Mother-of-pearl duck-shaped buttons for shirt and diaper cover; 11 sharp needle for embroidery

Pattern: The Old Fashioned Baby “Baby’s Smocked Layette” (view 1)

Smocking Design: Two smocking designs included in pattern. Featured smocking design is accented with tiny white beads. Floss: DMC blanc (white)

Baby’s Smocked Layette

By Suzanne Hebert

Diaper shirt: Transfer embroidery design (see Pull-out) to diaper shirt front. Use an 11 sharp needle and one strand of floss for all embroidery. See “Essentials” on page 73 for split stitch and French knot illustrations. •• Blue waves—Split stitch in DMC 3325 •• Duck head—Straight stitches for feathers in DMC 472 •• Duck bill—Tiny back stitches in DMC 741 •• Egg—Split stitch in DMC 3325

Fabric: “Vanilla Ice Cream” dotted Swiss voile (dress), rice Imperial batiste (slip) Lace: “Angel Lace” at hem and sleeves

Embroidery Design

KIT AVAILABLE FROM CREATIVE NEEDLE. See page 83.

Materials from Adrianne’s Attic. See Suppliers Directory.

•• Crack in egg—Tiny back stitch in DMC 3325 •• Eyes—French knots (one wrap) in DMC 310 •• Pleat at back of shirt—blue waves in split stitch, DMC 3325.

Materials from Farmhouse Fabrics. See Suppliers Directory.

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Page 31

“Rattles” Pattern: From the book Kimono Sleeve Daygowns (Limited Edition #201) by Ginger Snaps Designs Fabric: White cashmere flannel Trim: Whipstitch piping (white) Floss: DMC 369 (very light pistachio green), 746 (off-white), 800 (pale delft blue), and 963 (ultra very light dusty rose) Buttons: Three yellow 3/8" buttons for embroidery design; three 1/4" buttons for back closure

Diaper cover: Transfer embroidery design (see Pull-out) to diaper cover. •• Blue waves—Split stitch in DMC 3325 •• Duck body—Split stitch in DMC 472 •• Duck feet—Split stitch in DMC 741; details on feet are straight stitches.

December 2008

Embroidery design: “Rattles” by Beth Bryson

By Beth Bryson

Sew yellow button at center of gown, 1¾" from neckline. Sew remaining two buttons on either side of center button, with 1" between buttons. Work a bullion stitch on each button using DMC 369 (left button), 963 (center button) and 800 (right button). See “Essentials” on page 72 for bullion stitch illustrations. Refer to photograph for placing six chain stitches at each button, forming rattle handle. Stitch bow on each rattle handle with lazy daisy stitches and a French knot, using DMC 746. Add a cluster of French knots (DMC 746) to finish handles of rattle. See “Essentials,” page 70 for instructions for French knot and lazy daisy stitches. Materials from Beth’s Heirloom Sewing. See Suppliers Directory.

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Page 36 Blankets These precious blankets are from the layette stitched by Gini Mitchell for her grandson. Gini offers this advice for making them. Use soft, cuddly fabric such as flannel, Swiss flannel or wool challis. Line blanket with batiste, if desired. Cut fabric (and lining) 36" or 45" square, or desired size. Leave corners square or round them using a plate (or any round object) as a template. If blanket is lined, baste blanket and lining at edges before adding trim, or stitch blanket/lining with right sides together, leaving an opening for turning. Trim seams; turn blanket and press. Stitch opening closed by hand. Add trim as desired. Use ribbon, beading, lace or a mitered binding made from a contrasting fabric. Decorate blankets with hemstitching, lace motifs or add embroidery.

Materials from Farmhouse Fabrics. See Suppliers Directory

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Page 28 Patterns: Collars, Etc., Pattern Company “Layette” and “Gertrude’s Baby Cap” Fabrics: 1 3/8 yds. Spechler-Vogel white satin-faced batiste (bubble), 1/4 yd. blue Spechler-Vogel satin-faced batiste (bias trim); /2 yd. blue Bear Threads Swiss flannel (sacque)

1

Trims: 1/2 yd. Capitol Imports edging (bonnet), 11/4 yds. blue silk satin ribbon; 1/2 yd. white silk satin ribbon Notions: 1/2 yd. 1/4"-wide elastic, DMC #50 thread in blue and white; four 1/4" buttons (back closure); three 3/8" buttons (bubble) Floss: DMC 827 (very light blue) or 3325 (light baby blue) Tools: Quarter-inch quilting foot Booties: “Classic Cashmere Booties” from Simple Knits for Cherished Babies by Erika Knight in Rowan 4-ply soft, color 370; see Suppliers Directory.

KIT AVAILABLE FROM CREATIVE NEEDLE See page 83.

Materials from The Carol Harris Company. See Suppliers Directory.

Perfect Bias Binding

1.

3.

2.

4.

By Lynn Blanchard

Prepare bias strips: Cut 1"-wide bias strips and join them. Press strip in half lengthwise, being careful not to stretch bias. At each raw edge, press ¼" toward center, forming a doublefold bias strip that is ¼" wide.

December 2008

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When approaching an outside curve, use these tips for smooth stitching. •• Shorten stitch length to 1.5. •• Use fine thread to avoid extra bulk in seam. •• Choose a fine machine needle, no larger than #70. A #65 Microtex needle works well.

Prepare fabric: In featured garment, bias is applied to two layers of fabric. To prevent layers from sliding apart, pin or hand baste layers together; avoid placing pins/ basting on stitching line. Trim seam allowance from outside edges of garment. Tip: To ensure an even trim line, use a fine tip marker to make small dots along seamline of pattern piece. Pierce dots with a pin, and use marker on dots. When pattern is removed, the line of dots indicate trim line. Applying the bias: With right sides together, place edge of bias on edge of garment, lining up quarter-inch quilting foot with edges. Stitch exactly on ¼" fold at each bias strip. Do not put any tension on bias strip.

•• Use the “needle down” position, if your machine has this feature. Stitch slowly, lifting presser foot every few stitches to reposition garment slightly. •• Ease in a little fullness at curves so that bias will turn over outside curves easily. Push the bias with a finger or wooden skewer toward needle as it approaches the curve, or baste bias by hand to make sure placement and turnover is correct before stitching at machine. •• Finishing bias: Turn bias to wrong side; pin in place. By hand, stitch bias to previous line of machine stitching. For best results, use a fine needle (#11) and fine thread, taking a tiny bite of fabric with each stitch.

Order of work: Complete collar and sleeve before assembling bubble. On sacque, stitch underarm of sacque and lining. Trim and clip seam. Place lining and sacque with wrong sides together. Pin or hand baste. Apply bias to outer edge of sacque first, then the neck edge. For sleeves, fold over end of bias first, stitch around circle. Place raw edge of bias on top of fold, turn, and hand stitch on inside of garment. Add feather stitch over tucks on front and back of bubble. Bonnet Complete bonnet according to pattern instructions. Add a row of feather stitching along brim.

Contrasting thread used for clarity

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Web-sters what's new at creativeneedlemag.com Stitch this delightful “Miss Mouse” shadow embroidery design and learn how to adapt shoulder buttonhole openings for ribbon ties. An easy color change creates a Christmas look.

Christmas smock plates add a touch of magic to your holiday smocking.

Holiday Tie Up

Additional Projects Baby Laundry Bag

Organdy Gift Bags

Pleating & Smocking Eyelet Angel Christmas Ornament on Velveteen Christmas Stockings

Kits from previous issues

Christmas Hang Ups December 2008

81


Suppliers Directory Pages 56-59

DMC (wholesale) www.dmc.com

Pages 31 & 77

Bear Threads (wholesale), 4651 Roswell Rd., Ste D-308, Atlanta, GA, 30342 (404)-255-5083 Continental Sewing, 5068 Parkway Dr., Jackson, MS 39211, (866)956-6376, www.comtinentalsewing.com Collars, Etc. Pattern Company, 119 Gray Center Rd., N. Canton, MS, 39046, (601) 855-7141, www.collarsetc.com DMC (wholesale) www.dmc.com Janome (wholesale), www.janome.com

“Heirloom Embroidery Book” available from Creative Needle

Beth’s Heirloom Sewing, 300 Blake Rd., Wetumpka, AL 36092, (334) 5672448

Pages 14-20

Spechler-Vogel (wholesale), 234 West 39th St., New York, NY, 10018, (800) 223-2031, (212) 564-6177-8-9

Pages 28-30 & 79 Capitol Imports (wholesale), P.O. Box 13002, Tallahassee, FL, (850) 385-4665, (800) 521-7647 The Carol Harris Company, 1265 S. Main St., Dyersburg, TN, 38024, (731) 285-9419, www.carolharrisco.com

Bernina, us.bernina.com The Button Company (wholesale), 811 Main St., Suite 13, Columbia, MS, 39429, (601) 731-1466, www. thebuttoncompany.net DMC (wholesale) www.dmc.com The Carol Harris Company, 1265 S. Main St., Dyersburg, TN, 38024, (731) 285-9419, www.carolharrisco.com The Old Fashioned Baby, 14335 Awtrey Dr., Prairieville, LA 70769, (225) 9427445, www.oldfashionedbaby.com Spechler-Vogel (wholesale), 234 West 39th St., New York, NY, 10018, (800) 223-2031, (212) 564-6177-8-9

Collars, Etc. Pattern Company, 119 Gray Center Rd., N. Canton, MS, 39046, (601) 855-7141, www.collarsetc.com

Pages 12-13

DMC (wholesale) www.dmc.com

Collars, Etc. Pattern Company, 119 Gray Center Rd., N. Canton, MS, 39046, (601) 855-7141, www.collarsetc.com DMC (wholesale) www.dmc.com FINCA (embroidery floss), http://www. presenciausa.com McCarn Enterprises (Ellen McCarn) (Wholesale), P.O. Box L, Vincent, AL, 35178, (205) 672-0311 Waechter’s Silk Shop, 94 Charlotte St., Asheville, NC, 28801, (828) 252-2131, www.waechters.com

Ginger Snaps Designs, P.O. Box 240728, Montgomery, AL, 36124, (334) 567-4239, www.gingersnapsdesigns.com

Pages 32 & 74 Barb’s Sewing Center, 2310 A Whitesburg Dr., Huntsville, AL. 35801. (256) 539-2414 Creations by Michié, 285 Dee Ann Rd., Trinuty, AL, 35673, (256) 353-1748 82

DMC (wholesale) www.dmc.com Rowan Yarn available from www. yarnmarket.com Simple Knits for Cherished Babies available from Amazon Spechler-Vogel (wholesale), 234 West 39th St., New York, NY, 10018, (800) 223-2031, (212) 564-6177-8-9

Pages 34-35 & 76 Adrianne’s Attic, (337) 857-6955, www.adriannes.com

Pages 36 & 78 Farmhouse Fabrics, 270 Church Rd., Beech Island, SC, 29842, (888) 827-1801, (803) 827-1801, www.farmhousefabrics. com

Ginger Snaps Designs, P.O. Box 240728, Montgomery, AL, 36124, (334) 567-4239, www.gingersnapsdesigns.com DMC (wholesale) www.dmc.com

Pages 62-64 Children’s Corner (wholesale), (800) 543-6915, www.childrenscornerfabric.com Fabric Finders (wholesale), 318 Doubletree Ln., Florence, AL, 35634, (256) 7677615, www.fabricfindersinc.com The Old Fashioned Baby, 14335 Awtrey Dr., Prairieville, LA 70769, (225) 9427445, www.oldfashionedbaby.com

Pages 21-27 Creations by Michié, 285 Dee Ann Rd., Trinuty, AL, 35673, (256) 353-1748 DMC (wholesale) www.dmc.com Elegant Stitches, Waverly Place Shopping Center, 210-C Colonades Way, Cary, NC, 27511, (919) 852-4445, (888) 639-9383 (toll free), www.elegantstitches. com McCarn Enterprises (Ellen McCarn) (Wholesale), P.O. Box L, Vincent, AL, 35178, (205) 672-0311 Spechler-Vogel (wholesale), 234 West 39th St., New York, NY, 10018, (800) 223-2031, (212) 564-6177-8-9

Pages 66-68 Adrianne’s Attic, (337) 857-6955, www.adriannes.com

Pages 33 & 76

DMC (wholesale) www.dmc.com

DMC (wholesale) www.dmc.com

The Old Fashioned Baby, 14335 Awtrey Dr., Prairieville, LA 70769, (225) 9427445, www.oldfashionedbaby.com

Farmhouse Fabrics, 270 Church Rd., Beech Island, SC, 29842, (888) 827-1801, (803) 827-1801, www.farmhousefabrics. com The Old Fashioned Baby, 14335 Awtrey Dr., Prairieville, LA 70769, (225) 9427445, www.oldfashionedbaby.com

Page 65 The Carol Harris Company, 1265 S. Main St., Dyersburg, TN, 38024, (731) 285-9419, www.carolharrisco.com Creative Needle  |  creativeneedlemag.com


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Kit #ND08-34

Kit includes: Fabric, Babyfacing fusible interfacing, buttons, plastic snap, thread, floche

Kit includes: Fabrics, buttons and floss

Kit options: “Baby Diaper Shirt 1”

Kit options: “Baby’s Summer Clothes”

pattern $10, “Baby Diaper Covers” book $13.35

pattern, size Infant to 6 mos., $12

Size Infant to 6 mos. $37 (Subscriber)  $41 (Retail)

Size Infant 7-18 lbs. $41 (Subscriber)  $45 (Retail)

Kit #ND08-28

Kit #ND08-13

Kit includes: Fabrics, lace edging,

ribbon, buttons, elastic, floss and threads

Kit options: “Layette” pattern $12,

Kit includes: Fabric, ribbon, floss and elastic

buttons,

“Gertrude’s Baby Cap” pattern (to 9 mos.) $5

Kit options: “Layette” pattern $12, Smock plate “Forget Me Not” $4

Size Infant to 6 mos. $73 (Subscriber) $81 (Retail)

Size Infant to 6 mos. $51 (Subscriber)  $56 (Retail)

*Prices for all kits include shipping on U.S. orders. Prices valid December 1, 2008 - January 31, 2009 or as supplies are available. After this date, prices subject to change. Please, no substitutions. **December ’08 CN with instructions for kit adaptations may be purchased separately.

Call 800-443-3127 (9-5 ET, M-F) or online at www.CreativeNeedleMag.com Click on kits for close-ups and details.


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Y! HURR Offer Ends 8 12/31/0

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Carol Harris Company www.carolharrisco.com Free shipping on all orders during the month of June 2009

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The Karen Faylor Company www.karenfaylor.com 20% off all regular price fabric, patterns, and smock plates The Smocking Bird www.thesmockingbird.com $2 off one Children’s Corner pattern Vaune www.vaune.com Free package of Schmetz Microtex needles with purchase of $30 or more Waechter’s Silk Shop www.waechters.com 20% off silk dupioni solid colors Some restrictions may apply. Your Privileged Subscriber Benefits package includes complete guidelines along with your personal shopping code and will be sent directly to you.

Call: 800-443-3127 or visit: www.CreativeNeedleMag.com or complete form and mail to: Creative Needle 1 Apollo Road Lookout Mountain, GA 30750 Please provide your email address so we can rush your Privileged Subscriber Benefits package and personal shopping code to you.


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STATEMENT OF OWNERSHIP, MANAGEMENT, AND CIRCULATION 1. A. Title of Publication: CREATIVE NEEDLE MAGAZINE 2. Publication No.: 0887-2384

Finest cottons, linen, silks, French & English Laces for all your smocking & heirloom sewing needs. Swiss & Pima Batiste Swiss Striped Voile Swiss Cotton Dotted Swiss Swiss Wool Challis Cotton Satin Batiste Liberty of London Pima Lawn & Broadcloth Pima Prints & Checks Silk Batiste & Dupioni Handkerchief Linen Imperial Batiste & Broadcloth Imperial Tartans Australian Magazines, Madiera Silk Floss, Floche’, Pearl Buttons, Tattings, Books, Patterns, Silk Satin Ribbon, Silk Ribbon __________________________________ Major Credit Cards Accepted

www.delicatestitches.com

Order Line 918-245-5998 1200 Cedar Place, Sand Springs, OK 74063 Hours by Appointment

Sew Bear-y Special HEIRLOOM SEWING, SMOCKING, EMBROIDERY, FINE FABRICS, LACES & LESSONS

“Keeping the art alive” 110B Athens West Parkway Athens, GA 30606 706-369-1111 www.sewbearyspecial.com

weet Stitches

HEIRLOOM SEWING & SMOCKING SUPPLIES

• Fabric • Plates • Floche • Needles • Patterns VISIT US AT www.Sweet-Stitches.com or 137 Winthrop Rd. - Columbus, Ohio 43214 614-263-2142 Give the code BISHOP and receive free shipping

770-227-7441 • Authorized Elna & Baby Lock Dealer • Fine Fabrics • Smocking & Heirloom Sewing Supplies • Children’s Clothes & Shoes 409 Airport Rd. • Griffin, GA 30224 Tuesday-Friday 10-5; Saturday 10-2

Quality Sew Children’s Baby! Fabrics

3. Date of filing: September 30, 2008. 4. Frequency of Issue: BIMONTHLY 5. No of issues Published Annually: 6 (six) 6. Annual Subscription Price: $32.95 7. Complete Mailing Address of Known Office of Publication: 1 APOLLO ROAD, LOOKOUT MOUNTAIN, GA 30750. 8. Complete Mailing Address of the Headquarters of General Business Offices of the Publisher: 1 APOLLO ROAD, LOOKOUT MOUNTAIN, GA 30750. 9. Full Names and Complete Mailing Address of Publisher, Editor and Managing Editor: Publisher: ANN M.HENDERSON, 3 Apollo Road, Lookout Mountain, GA 30750; Editor: Same. Executive Editor: ELENA RICKENBACH, 1 Apollo Road, Lookout Mountain, GA 30750. 10. Owner (If owned by a corporation, its name and address must be stated and also immediately thereunder the names and addresses of stockholders owning or holding 1 percent or more of total amount of stock. If not owned by a corporation, the names and addresses of the individual must be given. If owned by a partnership or their unincorporated firm, its name and address, as well as that of each individual must be given. If the publication is published by a non-profit organization, its name and address must be stated.):

11. Known Bondholders, Mortgagees, and Other Security Holders Owning or Holding 1 Percent or More of Total Amount of Bonds, Mortgages or Other Securities: NONE 12. For completion by Nonprofit Organizations Authorized to Mail at Special Rates: Not Applicable 13. Publication Title: CREATIVE NEEDLE MAGAZINE 14. Issue Date for Circulation Data Below: September/October 2008 15. Extent and Nature of Circulation:

A. Total No. Copies: (Net Press Run) Average no. copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 15,028 Actual No. Copies of single issue published nearest to filing date: 14,266

B. Paid and/or Requested Circulation: 1. Paid/requested outside-county mail subscriptions: Average no. copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 6,881 Actual. no. copies of single issue published nearest to filing date: 14,266 2. Paid in-county subscriptions: Average no. copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 600 Actual no. copies of single issue published nearest to filing date: 430 3. Sales through dealers and carriers, street vendors, counter sales, and other non-USPS paid distribution: Average no. copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 7,311 Actual no. copies of single issue published nearest to filing date: 6,836 4. Other classes mailed through USPS: Average no. copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 0 Actual no. copies of single issue published nearest to filing date: 0

C. Total Paid and/or Requested Circulation: Average no. copies each issue during preceding 12 months (Sum of 15b(1) and 15b(2)): 14,792 Actual no. copies of single issue published nearest to filing date: 13,968

D. Free Distribution by Mail, Carrier or Other Means, Samples, Complimentary and Other Free Copies: 1. Outside-county as stated on Form 3541: Average no. copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 70 Actual no. copies of single issue published nearest to filing date: 108 2. In-county as stated on From 3541: Average no. copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 0 Actual no. copies of single issue published nearest to filing date: 0 3. Other classes mailed through USPS: Average no. copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 0 Actual no. copies of single issue published nearest to filing date: 0

E. Free Distribution Outside the Mail (Carriers or other means): Average No. Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months: 0 Actual No. Copies of Single Issue Published Nearest to Filing Date: 0

F: Total Free Distribution (Sum of 15d and 15e): Average No. Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months: 178 Actual No. Copies of Single Issue Pub. Nearest to Filing Date: 178

G. Total Distribution (Sum of 15c and 15f) : Average no. copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 14,970 Actual no. copies of single issue published nearest to filing date: 14,146

H. Copies Not Distributed: Average no. copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 58 Actual no. copies of single issue published nearest to filing date: 120

I. Total (Sum of 15g, 15h(1) and 15h(2)): Average no. copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 15,028 Actual no. copies of single issue published nearest to filing date: 14,266

J. Percent Paid and/or Requested Circulation (15c/15g x100) Average no. copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 98.81% Actual no. copies of single issue published nearest to filing date: 98.74%

UNIQUE PATTERNS FOR:

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NEEDLE PUBLISHING, INC is 100% owned by Ann M. Henderson, 1 Apollo Road, Lookout Mountain, GA 30750.

16. Publication of Statement of Ownership Publication required. Will be printed in the Nov/Dec ’08 issue of this publication. I certify that all information furnished on this form is true and complete. I understand that anyone who furnishes false or misleading information on this form or who omits material or information requested on the form may be subject to criminal sanctions (including fines and imprisonment) and/or civil sanctions (including multiple damages and civil penalties). (signed) Ann M. Henderson, President


Ladida Fine Fabrics, Inc. 4726 Poplar Avenue • Memphis, TN 38117 901-761-4316

CREATIONS Smocking Supplies Heirloom Supplies Lessons Available

431 Rena Drive Lafayette, LA 70503

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Visit: Embroidery Museum and Resource Center

426 West Jefferson St. Louisville, KY 40202

Custom Made Clothing & Accessories for infants, children and dolls Created by Missy Hollenbeck missy@fairychildheirlooms.com 480-216-4737 fairychildheirlooms.com blog: fairychildheirlooms.wordpress.com

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Connecting What is most frustrating about sewing for you… and what is most pleasurable? Readers share their thoughts on the rewards and aggravations of sewing. To respond to our next question, visit us at www.CreativeNeedleMag.com Favorite: The most frustrating thing about sewing is not being able to find just the right fabric or trim to turn my vision into reality. The most pleasurable part is the first cut into fabric. I only cut after much planning and deliberation, so cutting the fabric is like hearing the start gun at the beginning of a race. It really energizes me. M.L., Heflin, LA

This issue’s favorite receives The Art of Embroidery by Françoise Tellier-Loumagne

The most frustrating and pleasant things about sewing for me are the same thing—my kids. As soon as I’m cutting something, three little ones crowd around my legs asking “Is that for me?” “Is it done yet?” “Do mine first!” It drives me nuts, but nothing compares to my daughter’s excitement when a new dress is ready for her to wear and the fact that she won’t take it off! P.M., Harvest, AL The most frustrating thing about sewing for me is the lack of understanding from women who do not sew. They have no idea the number of hours we put into completing a project, or the years of training and practice that went into building the skills we exhibit in our completed “works of art.” The most pleasurable part of sewing is the self-satisfaction I feel from completing a project to the best of my ability. Satisfying myself is much more important than sewing to please anyone else. N.P., Limerick, PA 88

The most frustrating thing is how limited my time for sewing is. I love the creative and design part. My mind can dream much faster than my fingers can work, making it hard to stand the time between dreaming and the most pleasurable part—seeing my child’s sweet face beaming above my creation! S.J., Valdosta, GA The most frustrating thing is that I don’t live near any heirloom or garment fabric stores. The most rewarding/pleasurable is seeing my daughter’s face when I have made her something! That is priceless! S.W., East Amherst, NY Most frustrating about sewing is the mess I’ve created from the last project. I can’t reach for and find what I want because it is out of place. I’m going to find and hire a “sewing room nanny” who will cleanup and reorganize after each project. R.H., Durham, NC The most frustrating thing about sewing is excessive use of the seam ripper, or unsewing! Sometimes I feel like when I sew I take one stitch forward, two stitches out. K.S., Knoxville, TN What is most pleasurable is the sense of creating something more beautiful to add to this world (besides, of course, my five children). What is most frustrating is that there are

ONLY 24 hours in the day in which to do it! I spend eight of those sleeping and must spend at least eight of them earning a living. V.P., Reno, NV It is so frustrating when pattern companies assume that you know everything about sewing. I am a fairly accomplished seamstress, but often I am stumped because the “pattern” assumes I know a certain technique. The instructions don’t seem to make sense. On the other hand, sewing a Wendy Schoen pattern is a dream. Her instructions are always exactly what they are supposed to be! T.B., Memphis, TN For me, the most frustrating thing about sewing is finding enough time for all the projects I come up with. The most pleasurable is when my little girl receives a compliment on her outfit and proudly says, “My mommy made it!” N.K., Prattville, AL

NEXT ISSUE:

What creative ways have you used to convince your child to wear smocking for just one more year? Each issue our readers respond to a new topic. Share your stories, your special ways of doing things—and connect with readers all over the country. Visit our website and let us know what you’re thinking, or send your letter to Creative Needle Connecting, 1 Apollo Road, Lookout Mountain, GA 30750. Letters may be edited for length or clarity. Creative Needle  |  creativeneedlemag.com


“Your connection to Fine Lace, Embroideries & Fabrics” Over 25 Years of Serving You, & Specializing in the Finest Products designed for: French Hand Sewing, Machine Heirloom Sewing, English Smocking, Collector Doll Costuming & Heirloom Quilting

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