Wine Cellar
by Bill Kearney
White Burgundy CHARDONNAY. To most of us, that word in the lexicon of wine conjures up vivid images of white wines that possess characteristics of oak and/or butter. There are some truly compelling chardonnay wines from California that have created legions of loyal followers across America. But let me inject into the conversation a few wines for consideration, like Puligny-Montrachet, Meursault, Chablis and Chassagne-Montrachet. Believe it or not, these regions also produce wines from chardonnay grapes that are extraordinary and succulent examples of white wines unique to their own area of the world. And yes, they are all chardonnay. The world of French wine certainly creates confusion for many Americans. We have simplified wine by just referencing the grape, for this brings the instant gratification that we all strive for. But to inject these same parameters into the world of French wine serves as a grave injustice. Tasting chardonnay from Meursault and then trying a Puligny-Montrachet can be as distinctly different as trying to compare two different flavors of snowballs. Travel a few blocks down the road from PulignyMontrachet, and you will encounter the very different wines of Chassagne-Montrachet, whose wines are still chardonnay. The white wines of PulignyMontrachet deliver gorgeous notes of floral characteristics blended with a hedonistic mixture of fruit and cream, while the white wines 82
Inside Northside
of Chassagne-Montrachet have some of the same characteristics but find very pleasant notes of spice. Even more distinctive are the wines of Meursault, which are found to give off wonderful combinations of butter and minerality. To those of you who have patience and room, your experience will be exalted from letting these wines age for a few years so as to achieve their true potential. Many Americans will have heard of Chablis but have never truly encountered the marvelous mixture of lemon and acidity that deliver a jubilant chardonnay experience. Like many wines from France, these outstanding expressions of chardonnay will certainly seem to catapult your wine expenditure into a different monetary category. For those who desire a more moderate financial experience, there are some excellent values in white Burgundy from appellations such as St. Veran and Vire Clese. Many quality producers are making great, previously unparalleled white Bourgogne. For those who do not have the burdensome restrictions of financial parameters, try Montrachet, as it will deliver a life-changing experience. If you love chardonnay, and the lively delivery of oak and butter is pleasurable, keep drinking American chardonnay and leave white Burgundies to others. Irrespective of whether from France or from California, if a wine tastes good to you, it is a good wine.