Visual Essay

FORM FOLLOWS LOCATION

Imogen Bryony Legge N0633863 Visual Essay

ABSTRACT This visual essay involves discovering and researching how the form of things, such as designs, furniture, human body and clothing, is influenced by location. The goal is to find example of cases where form does follow location and is an important factor when it comes to generating ideas. This has been done by exploring three different topics that relate to this; the designers location, clothing in location and the human form. Upon investigation of these topics, it has become clear that one topic, there was an evident link to form following location, under the designers location. This was the case as the direct form of the garments and graphics, created by designers Stella Jean, Chloe and Wolfgang Weingart, were very much influenced by a location close to their 'heart' and where they felt was a significance. In terms of the other two topics, the author found that the people and cultures in the a particular location affected the form of designs. For instance, the clothing in a location such as China is formed the way it is due to the culture and traditions in that location, not just the location. Similarly, when exploring the topic of human forms, it was found that the people in these locations determined what the ideals of the body type were as well as the forms of the World Barbie dolls are based off real people in these locations and the traditions associated with these cultures. Through showing that form follows location, this research highlights that the forms of creative works often follows cultures in those locations as well just the location itself and that the form doesn't just follow location and cultures within locations, but other aspects too.

INTRODUCTION Location can be defined as a particular place or position that can be occupied. In this essay, 'form follows location' is going to be explored.

This term allows the possibility to discover many different ideas around the topic. The reason behind this research topic is that location is a broad term and means that it is possible to get an insight into the designs around the world and how they differ. This essay shall include various ways in which things are designed following location.

Firstly, a designers' location can also influence the forms of designs. For instance, where the designer grew up or live currently can influence their ideas and generate a creative flow. This is shown through a few designers' work including Stella Jeans and Chloe, whereby they have the aesthetics of certain locations as their influences. These influences could be architecture, colours, textures, objects or materials just to name a few examples.

As well as that, objects and how they are designed for their location (where they are going to be used). This includes clothing, for example the clothing Eskimos wear is due to their location and the cold weather they receive in the Artic regions. Their clothing has high warmth to low weight ratio allowing them to undertake their daily activities whilst not being restricted by their clothing.

In addition, the human body and how the preferences of the form change from location to location will be explored as well as 'World Barbie' and how that product is beneficial to people in certain locations.

DESIGNERS AND THEIR LOCATIONS Influences are things that can have an effect on a development, idea or behaviour.

These influences can be from drama and music to colours and structures to location. Their effect on a person can vary greatly, depending on the individual and what they are needing the inspiration for.

Location can influence ideas that designers generate. This could be where the designers originate from, where they are currently living or just a destination which holds significance to them; any connection they’ d have to a certain place.

This can be from the aesthetics of the everyday, including architecture, fashion, materials, cultures, objects or colours. Three designers that use this approach is Stella Jean, Clare Weight Keller and Wolfgang Weingart.

Emerging fashion designer, Stella Jean, shown in figure 1 and 2,, is an example of a creator that take inspiration from her surroundings and what she knows.

Stella Jean originates from Italy on her fathers side and her mother comes from Haiti, Jean creates designs that are heavily influenced by where her mother comes from. In Haiti, the scenes are very much of "Haiti's gingerbread houses, vibrant colors, and intricate wood facades." (Stella Jean, 2016)

Figures 1 and 2 - Stella Jean

Through each of Jean's designs you feel a sense of intimacy into her pieces as she incorporates what she knows and what she has grown up being surrounded by into each design, so you feel she lets you into her a place that has a strong significance in her life. The form of Stella Jeans designs are therefore very much influenced by location.

She says "I'm particularly inspired by these amazing structures, which are not only architecturally significant but bear in mind the Caribbean climate and its living conditions." (Stella Jean, 2016) This is shown in her designs and fashion pieces with the statement bright orange, influenced by one of her fathers shirt and the heat of each location, with the elaborate details of Haitian woman being incorporated into each piece.

Figures 3, 4 and 5 - Haiti's gingerbread houses

Figures 6, 7 and 8 - Examples of Stella Jean's S/S 2016 Collection

In addition to Stella Jean using location to influence her designs, the creative director at Chloé, Clare Waight Keller is also fascinated with the structures of a particular location.

Figure 9 - Clare Waight Keller

The aesthetic of the Arabesque architecture inspire Keller and incorporates the look of them into many of her designs, illustrated here.

Quoted “In my Summer 2016 collection, I created a series of pieces made up of elements of exaggerated details from Arabesque architecture,” (Clare Waight Keller, 2016) she says, “working the proportions on a larger scale and piecing them together to create edges and straps and to frame dresses and tops” (Clare Waight Keller, 2016). The inspiration is evident in her design pieces for Chloe; in particular, the lace work and the repeated patterned designs, much like how the Middle Eastern structures are formed.

Figures 10 and 11 - Arabesque Architecture

Figures 12, 13 and 14 - Chloe designs with influence to arabesque architecture

F u r t h e r m o r e , g r a p h i c designer Wolfgang Weingart, uses this approach of using sightings of a location to influence his work too. His influence are his observations; "Whether it was digging sites of Baalbek, the buildings in the ancient city of Palmyra in the Syrian desert, or the clay settlements on the southern outskirts of Damascus, I began to see everything documented in my trips, every topographical image as a typographical abstraction. At last I perceived the aesthetic connection between the contour of landscape and my typographic pictures." (Petrula Vrontikis, 2002)

Figure 15 - Wolfgang Weingart

Wolfgang Weingarts work in his personal project, M Compositions and Round Compositions, you can see the links into the photographs of these locations to the structural look of the text. The form of his designs evidently being followed by location.

In these three cases, form has heavily influenced by location due to the designs incorporating aspects of these places into their work. Also to note is that it is not restricted between a certain discipline, as it does cross over from fashion design to graphics. Therefore, the forms of Stella Jean's designs, Chloe and Wolfgang Weingarts work does follow location as in this case, the form of their work is heavily influenced by location due to the designs incorporating aspects of these places into their work. This shows that location is a strong influence for any designers and that the way things look, form, follows location.

Figures 16, 17 and 18 - Weingart's M and R Compositions

CLOTHING AND LOCATION The materials used to make the clothing of Eskimos are caribou and seal skin.

Caribou skin is used for 2 layers of garments; the first layer with the fur against the skin and the second had the fur on the outside. By having these two layers mean that there is an insulating layer in-between which improves the overall warmth for the wearer. This is essential for someone that lives in the Artic regions due to the temperatures reaching a -32 degree celcius in the winter temperatures.

Figures 19 - Artic Environment

The seal skin is used for the materials of the boots, which are often layered like the garments. The sealskin is used as the outside layer due to its water resistant properties.

This is important as the terrain is often icy and covered in snow in the Artic regions so the boots need to keep that out and the seal skin achieves this. As well as the materials being very effective for the location that they live in, it is also easily accessible.

When relating to form following location to the Artic and Eskimos clothing, it does agree with this statement. Eskimos clothing, being the form, follows location, that being the extreme conditions of the Artic. Therefore the way that Eskimos clothing look and feels is determined to the location.

Figure 20 - Caribou fur coat

Figures 21 and 22 - Eskimo Clothing

4,614 miles away from the Arctic region, clothing is also determined by location, however by the culture in that location. An example of this is in China where by the traditional clothing plays a large part in the country's history and culture.  

Figures 23 - Traditional Chinese clothing

With there being 56 different ethnic minority groups, Han Chinese is the largest with about 900 million people being a part of it. 'Hanfu' was the clothing worn by the Han ethnic group from the ruling period of the Three Emperors and Five Sovereigns (2852 BCE) to the Ming Dynasty (ending 1644).

The characteristics of Hanfu clothing are the statement "Y cross collar, right lapel and tying sash in place of buttons" (Travel China Guide, 2016,) . The clothing is designed so the wearer looks and feels comfortable; the flat pattern cutting, making the clothing wide and loose, helps this.

Figure 24 - White Hanfu

Figures 25 and 26 - Detailed Hanfu and Hanfu Flat cutting

In relation to the materials the Hanfu clothing is made from, fabrics were carefully chosen and dyed using environmentally friendly dyestuff from plant extracts. These materials included; brocade, damask silk, cotton and yarn.

Embroidered onto the garments were usually Chinese symbols that reflected the social standing of the owners. Objects that depicted the sun, moon, elephants, tigers, dragons, birds and flowers were embroidered, as shown in the images.

In terms of form following location, traditional Chinese clothing very much agrees with this statement. The way the traditional Hanfu garments look is due to the culture in this location and the traditions held there. In this case, culture is a very important thing in this location so will hold a great significance, so therefore may override location in 'form follows location; and become 'form follows culture in location.'

Figures 27 and 28 - Brocade material and an Embroidered

Figures 29 and 30 - Brocade material and an Embroidered

THE HUMAN FORM The human body is the most natural form, which differs from location to location. A product that visualises this is toy Barbie Dolls.

Figure 31 - 'Original' Barbie

Mattel, the creators of Barbie dolls is said to sell 3 Barbie dolls every second and is the leading producer of toy dolls. Over the 57 years on the market, there has always been controversy over the dolls, as they never look life like and have an unachievable figure. There has now been a recent introduction of Barbie featuring a more diverse body shapes and skin tones. 'World Barbie Dolls' and Barbie dolls, which have a slimmer, taller and curvier figure.

Figure 33 - Barbies new makeover, including different skin tones, hair typesand size being taller or shorter Figure 32 - World Barbie shown with corrisponding animals to that country

A study undertaken by Mintel on Character Merchandising US 2015 report, tell us that ‘40% of American parents who have purchased or licenced merchandise for their children believe their children’s favourite characters are positive role models for them’ (Juan Ruiz, 2013).

For Hispanics, it is important to them that their children have a connection to their roots and don’t forget where they came from. By having a product like Barbie dolls be created for numerous locations, such as Mexico and Spain, is important to them. Research undertaken by Mintel shows that Hispanics recognise that their children can be exposed to American culture growing up in school and feel that if they are not shown traditional Hispanic traditions at home, that they will be lost.

They are being taught through food, traditions and content and not usually through toys. By there being a toy that shows the traditions of the human form in these locations allows the parents show their children in a more interactive and fun to the children style. This relates to form as a major company; Mattel is changing the way their products look based on the location.

This opens their products up to a wider market and could make it more successful by including many locations.

Figures 34 and 35 - traditions of the hispanic culture - Circo de Mayo and Day of the Dead

In comparison of the images shown, the Barbie doll obtains the same of characteristics of a traditional Hispanic woman.

This is important as it demonstrates that the form of products, in this case the Barbie dolls do follow location. This then creates a positive effect to the consumer and it allows them to think that the product has been designed with the demographic that will purchase them in mind.

Figure 36 - Hispanic Barbie

Figures 37, 38 and 39 - Hispanic Women

To back up the argument of form following location, this also relates to the ideals of the human form in different locations. For example, in countries across the world, people have different opinions on what the human body should look like if preferable.

Figures 40, 41, 42, 43 and 44 - Different body form

With the human form being so unique and individual, it is interesting to notice how different countries have different ideals of this. This was shown visually in an experiment by an online doctor's surgery, Superdrug Online Doctor, who asked 18 designers to amend an image of a woman in her underwear to reflect the ideal body in their country. This study was then undertaken for men later on.

"Photoshop her form. The idea is to Photoshop and retouches this woman to make her more attractive to the citizens of your country. We are looking to explore how perceptions of beauty change across the world. Multiple designers are involved. You can modify clothing, but her form must be visible. No nudity. All other changes, including those to her shape and form, are up to you." (Superdrug Online Doctor, 2014)

Figures 45 and 46 - Uneditted images from 'Perceptions of Perfection' experiment

From this experiment, it is evident that peoples perception does depend on the location and what are the ideals of a human figure is there. By creating this link of the human form following location, it might not necessarily be due to the location itself, but the people in that location and what they believe is the ideals. This experiment is important to show this as it allows people from different locations to show what they truly believe is aesthetically pleasing and how the forms of their location influences a lot of things, including designs, fashion, the human form just to start.

When relating back to form following location, the cultures in this location have an affect on the ideals. Also with the Barbie dolls, the way they look are based on the cultures in these locations.

Figures 47 and 48 - Editted versions of previous image

WHEN FORM DOESNT FOLLOW LOCATION There are some cases in which form does not following location, and the form of products following other criteria such as ergonomics or emotions, for example.

The form of the everyday often does not always follow location. A product example of this is a toothbrush; the form of which very much has ergonomics in mind. The length and width small enough to fit into the mouth whilst the bristles still being long enough to clean the teeth, as well as not being too heavy to carry and undertake the activity. The materials also suitable for the function the product is going to undertake. The ergonomics of the product is more important than the location the product is going to be situated in.

A second example of form not following location is the way something looking being influenced by emotion. Designers now-a-days need have a relationship with who they are designing for. Their designs are about making and creating relationships but in order for these relationships to mean anything, they are to have the emotion behind it, to know who they are designing for, what they like, what their age is, gender etc. These factors all come into account when deciding on the form of a product, in particular bespoke goods such as a wedding dress or a kitchen. The relationship is needed between the designer and the consumer.

Figures 49 and 50 - Products that the form do not follow location

CONCLUSION When form is defined, it relates to shape, a particular way something exists or the configuration of something. When location is defined it communicates as a particular place or position that can be occupied. So does form follow location? In certain circumstances yes, in others no. The way certain things are designed is due to location; this being the background of the designer and them having links with a location. However when it comes to the people and the cultures in a location, the form of 'things' are often influenced by that, the people and their cultures. The topics explored when it comes to clothing forms is the way it is due to the culture of that particular location, for example the Chinese hanfu. As well as that, in the experiment undertaken by Superdrug Online Doctor the form of the human body is generated from the people and cultures and what is the ideals for them in that location. The different cultures in each location has an impression on the way something ends up looking and how they are formed.If different locations didn’t have particular characteristics, the form of things would not be unique or different. They could possibly hold the same qualities and there could possibly be a lack of originality. From the research, its shown that there are cases where form follows location and often cultures too. Therefore, the statement 'FORM FOLLOWS LOCATION' is a correct statement however can be adapted to 'FORM FOLLOWS CULTURES IN DIFFERENT LOCATIONS.' This stands true as with the cases in the main body of this essay, it agrees with each case. The cultures, being the people and their way of living in that location, affects the form of designs in the creative world.

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Appendix Personal Design History

At the age of 11, I received a Nintendo DS for my birthday.

It was the first edition of the Nintendo DS, so was quite bulky looking with a matt silver surface. When I was gifted it, I spent most of my spare time on it. I remember at the school year, in primary school, when we had finished all of our studies, my peers and I would connect using our DS' and play "Ninetendogs".

This was one of my favourite games, along with Super Mario Bros. Many hours of my childhood were 'lost' on this product.

At this time in my life, I would been moving on from primary school to a new secondary school, so my nerves would have been through the roof, especially as I was moving to an all girls school. At that age, going off into my own little world, with help from this device of course, meant I could forget about what I was stressing about.

In terms of relationships related to the DS, my sister also had one a few months later so I remember being able to play with her by connecting. Our mother often got annoyed at us for being on them a lot of the time, however I never remember her complaining when we were going on a long journey in the car.

I still have kept my Nintendo DS, although covered in stickers and marks, but it never broke, I just grew out of using it but still feel it has a significant part in my childhood.

(I wasnt able to take a picture of my own DS because I was unable to find it when at home but below shows what the product looks like!)

The Maker and Craft In today workshop session we were exploring the maker and craft, from a lecture we had at the beginning of the week.

I found that being able to create a 'piece of craft' from a bit of string is quite thrilling to an extent. The connections between each surface of string create patterns, religious symbols or just knots that could be used in everyday use. How each knot varies is interesting as they are a similar process however the final result can be very different.

Personally, I found that the task quite enjoyable as I was able to take ownership of the pieces I created and gave me a sense of achievement once I had completed them. The complication of some of the designs did get me slightly frustrated as a result didn't seem possible. By making the knots myself allowed me to personalise it and make it individual however I felt the knots were pretty standardised. In the image shown is a pen 'cosy' I made, like a tea cosy but for my pen. As I use the pen everyday and see what I created, I do feel a sense of achievement oddly when using it.

Appendix Continued Gender Reviewing the gender based product, a washing machine, from the point of view of a middle aged mother Review On Samsung E400 12KG Dear Readers, I am writing relating to my new recent purchase, my Samsung E400 12kg washing machine!! The reason for my new purchase was my old washing machine was not large enough capacity for my ever growing family. This new machine is a lot more efficient in comparison to my old one. It does a full load in 40 minutes in comparison to my old one taking 1 and a half hours! So so much quicker! As well as that, the softness of the clothes were amazing! I don't know if that was due to my fabric softener too but my towels have never been so soft! I am washing things now just for the sake of it! I want everything to be soft! And now, I cant wash my children's small quilts in there, my old one wasn't big enough for that! IT IS AMAZING! My husband doesn't understand the hype but he is happy he is getting soft clean clothes!

Just wanted to nip in and talk about this washing machine and I highly recommend to all of my 4 readers!

Thanks for reading and I'll check back in soon!

SassyMum1968 xox Modernism We believe that modernism in it's most simplistic form is based on experimentation. This includes experimentation in form, materials, manufacture, style and aesthetics.

In our opinion modernism is a rejection of previous styles and a creation of it's own. Which influenced styles such as surrealism, cubism, impressionism, minimalism and futurism. A lot of this can be found in the geometric style of these designs especially seen in the Bauhaus movement, with not only their architectural design but also their use of block colour and little decoration.

Bauhaus was based on the theory 'why can't we design cheap stuff that is nice too', as a response to the arts and crafts movement. We believe that this is one of the key ideas which inspired the change in form, materials and manufacture. If we look at Le Corbusier as one of the pioneers of architecture.

We can see how his modernist approach is shown in the form of his designs, such as 'notre dame du haut' and the feature of the windows, which showcase how going against the norm can create something inspirational.

Modernism is a movement which encompasses all areas of design from literature to graphics design.

Our belief is that modernism is about moving away from tradition through experimentation, while still remaining conservative.

Post-Modernism In this task, we were asked to show a topic through a Post-Modernism way. The choice of topic for our group was the very topical subject of Donald Trump being elected as President of the United States in the 2016 Election.

We decided to show this in a very graphic way. There was an iron, located on the table, representing the newly elected president and the weigh and power he now holds. From that, there were three nooses where three people hanged. One Muslim, One Mexican and one woman.

All people that Donald Trump has commented on in a negative way.

He has called women, 'Fat. Pig. Dog. Slob. Disgusting animal', Mexicans 'drug gangs' and 'rapists' and Muslims saying 'They're not coming to this country if I'm president. And if Obama has brought some to this country they are leaving, they're going, they're gone.' This shows that the new 'Great' America has not turned out, we predicted, great and is pushing people away in very extreme ways. By committing suicide. Also located underneath the hanging people was the great world, showing enjoyment and happiness; like what these people were hoping for.

I felt we visually showed this very well as a starting idea however if we were given more time and had access to more resources, we could have created a more evident design.

Technology "Those awkward situations when you wish you hadn't said the wrong thing at the wrong time is now a thing of the past. The small and subtle ear piece moulds perfectly into any ear shape after first use.

When approaching someone for a conversation, the new technology registers the situation and will give helpful hints to keep talking and not end up putting your foot in to. The futurist design is many steps ahead of anything else created, eventually this ear piece will no longer be an accessory, but a necessity. Along with saving you from embarrassment, the ear piece can quickly and clearly translate any conversation in quick enough time to give a response that is relevant.

With the ability to complete all these responsibilities, modern day tasks will become a thing of the past. A small and simple ear piece is what everyone needs for ease and comfort."

This was our sales pitch for the technology workshop as the group found that often there were a lot of moments between us that we'd wish we didn't say something or had thought before we spoke.

This slim and gold ear piece is fashion forward, with it looking like a good ear piercing piece, and the future of technology in conversations.