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INSPIRE S E P T E M B E R

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10 years of Kickstarting careers The SS20 trends you should know Watch Out: The hottest wristwear out there

JOHN

MOORE

IS

JEWELLER OF THE FAIR


Contents 2

JEWELLER OF THE FAIR John Moore

5

LEADING LIGHTS Awards Shortlists

6 7

IN THE NEWS

9 10 12 15

EMERGING NEW DESIGNERS

GRADUATE FASHION WEEK

John Moore

A NEW AGE FOR JEWELLERY?

MEET TONY BEDFORD

SEPTEMBER 2019

Katherine Ormerod

SHEFFIELD ASSAY OFFICE Spotlight on Sheffield

29 31

THE GOLDSMITHS’ CENTRE

Cutting-edge talent comes to IJL. Meet the KickStart and Bright Young Gems

THE NEW TECH ON THE BLOCK DIOTIMA & CO. INTRODUCE THE EONIA DIAMOND

#Trending

Introducing Graduate Fashion Week at IJL

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WAYS TO UPDATE YOUR SS20 OFFERING

THE TALENT OF THE FUTURE

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THE GAME CHANGERS

Discover Sheffield - a cultural hub with a rich jewellery background

A FUSION OF FASHION

6 TOP TIPS FOR BRIDES The tips you need to sell effectively from the experts

WATCHMAKER OF THE FAIR Jon Weston

SEPT 2019

SHINING THE SPOTLIGHT

The Art of Jewellery

THE AGE OF DIGITAL JEWELLERY Katherine Ormerod

24 25 26

WEDDING FAVOURS Selling bridal? Domino Jewellery share their top tips

Shaping the future of jewellery

BRIDAL TRENDS AND TIPS

TRENDS SS20 Jewellery Trends

EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW!

Innovation, Design, Beauty, Skill & Vision

THE TIMELESS ALLURE OF WATCHES

10 YEARS OF KICKSTART

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SEPT 2019

Paola De Luca

THE EONIA DIAMOND Q&A with Diotima & Co

TRENDS High Street

INSPIRE

INSPIRE

RAINBOW GEMS SHOWCASE Q&A with Wallace Chan

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JEWELLERY IN JADE

JEWELLERY'S LEADING LIGHTS The who's who at the top of the jewellery industry

WATCH THIS SPACE

THE HOTTEST WRISTWEAR OUT THERE

ART MEETS JEWELLERY An exclusive showcase of John Moore Jewellery

Letter from the Editor Once again, it is a pleasure to showcase the global jewellery industry on the world stage here at Olympia. INSPIRE magazine is designed to give a taste of everything you will see on display as well as giving a great keepsake of the trends, line-up and launches that are to be discovered across these special three days in London. From heritage and investment through to sustainability and cutting-edge technology, IJL is a great example of the enduring appeal of jewellery and watches in an industry that innovates and is at the forefront of consumer trends every year. I hope you get time to drop into one of our three theatres - whether learning more about setting up a business, or how to source ethically or enjoying the latest trends on the catwalk is what you are after you are sure to find it here at IJL. Enjoy and thank you for taking the time to be INSPIRED.

THE MINTEL REPORT 5 Must Know Facts LIBERTY POP-UP

Pearl Agenti, Editor Cover photo by Chris Bulezuik

INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY LONDON

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THE ART OF JEWELLERY With John Moore Jeweller of the Fair


J

ohn Moore, winner of two IJL-supported Goldsmith Company Gold Awards, will be showcasing as jeweller of the fair at IJL 2019. John was selected for this accolade due to the complexity and engineering dexterity of his creative jewellery couture. John is universally acknowledged as a highly skilled artisan and his work is displayed in art galleries around the world including The Mint Museum, Charlotte, North Carolina, USA, The NelsonAtkins Museum of Art, Kansas City, Missouri, USA, Spencer Museum of Art, Lawrence, Kansas, USA and National Glass Centre, Sunderland, UK.

John’s work is highly prized by international collectors. Private collectors of his work include Tiqui Atencio, Tuan Lee, Olnick Spanu Collection, Lady Helen Hamlyn, Robert Hiller, Dr Sarah Siegler and Suzanne Sanders. We spoke to this inspirational designer to find out more about his work and creative processes. As an artist, what inspired you to make wearable pieces?

It really goes back to my childhood. I was very happy doing performing arts and drama, so wearing costumes and creating a fantasy through things like masks, that really influenced me. As a child I was fascinated by people’s rings as well, because I was at that height around

adults. My mother also makes jewellery, so there are lots of influences.

right materials to achieve the effect I want.

Where do you draw your design inspiration from?

What’s your biggest challenge in producing your work?

I really draw my inspiration from a variety of sources. Visually the natural world plays a big part, scales on fish, petals on flowers and beautiful mathematical forms like arcs and curves. Scales on fish are so interesting because they are rigid but also allow for movement, a bit like armour. As a student I used to draw armoury a lot. My inspiration is really a melting pot of everything I’ve seen. Do you see more crossover between creative practises like art and jewellery?

There is a lot of room for crossover. For me, jewellery is art. It may seem more functional and doesn’t attract as much critique as art and pure design objects, but there is a lot to explore in making jewellery. I also enjoy collaborating, be it with scientists or filmmakers. Can you talk about the materials you use and why?

Compared to a lot of jewellery designers my approach is broad. I wasn’t traditionally trained, at first I studied design, so I got used to using different methods and materials. I work in aluminium and combine silicone rubber to allow movement in my pieces. I also love diamonds and precious metals, which can restrict you on scale, but the results can be really magical. I’ve even worked with wood and glass. It’s all about finding the

My biggest challenge is overcoming my own doubt and fear of trying something. Once you realise that’s not real and only in your head and that you create these boundaries yourself, you find freedom. The physical problems, the ‘how’ in making something, can always be solved. What piece of advice would you give young artists and designers?

I would say two things really. Firstly, be really careful about what advice you take. Just because something worked for someone else and they found success, doesn’t mean you need to follow the same route. What might suit them, may not suit you. Secondly, I would say, try things, work out what you want, what makes you tick, and follow your heart, even if it means going against the grain.

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PARIS

L U X E M B O U R G WARSAW GSTAAD

S P I R A L E C O L L E CT I O N G O R A L S K A J E W E L L E RY PA R I S

STAND A28 WWW.GORALSKA.COM

12 RUE DE LA PAIX 75002 PARIS

9 RUE DU FOSSÉ L-1536 LUXEMBOURG

6A PROMENADE, 3780 GSTAAD

59 ZLOTA STREET, 00-120 WARSAW


Jewellery’s Leading Lights

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he launch of the Leading Lights Awards, brought to you by International Jewellery London and Jewellery Outlook, will celebrate the innovation, craftsmanship, design and distribution of jewellery industry talent across the globe.

Katie Morris, Event Director, International Jewellery London (IJL) said: “IJL is very excited to launch this new set of awards for 2019. We know there is a huge amount of innovation, creativity, and outstanding educators in the industry and we want to recognise these as movers and shakers, future proofers and stars of their sector. As with many industries, jewellery and watches as verticals are experiencing new challenges and opportunities, and showcasing those who are embracing change and innovating through it is vital if we’re to inspire the next generation of jewellers and keep the industry performing at its optimum. A huge congratulations to everyone on this fantastic shortlist!” David Brough, Editor of Jewellery Outlook, said:  “The quality of the applicants was extremely high. We very much look forward to the announcement of the winners at IJL.” The International Leading Lights are a collaboration between leading jewellery show IJL and respected publication Jewellery Outlook, which offer the opportunity of gaining recognition for contributions to a forward-looking global jewellery industry. The winners will be showcased at IJL 2019 and beyond. The Leading Lights Award winners will be announced in a special, invite-only awards ceremony at IJL 2019 on Sunday 1 September.

BEST USE OF TECHNOLOGY De Beers Group Industry Services Everledger PureJewels

FASHION FUSION

Kastur Jewels LeSter Jewellery SoftDream by Laura Galasso

COURSE PROVIDER

Birmingham City University School of Jewellery British Academy of Jewellery De Beers Group Institute of Diamonds

INTERNATIONAL JEWELLER OF THE YEAR Isabella Liu Lucy Quartermaine ORA Pearls

BEST BRIGHT YOUNG GEM Aurelie Dellasanta Isla Gilham Lingjun Sun

BEST FINE JEWELLER Clogau Domino Jewellery Raw Pearls

BLOGGER AWARD

BLINGSIS – blingsis.com GEMOLOGUE – gemologue.com Preeta Agarwal Workroom – bejewelledfinds.com INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY LONDON

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In the News

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British brand Fei Liu launches new 18ct gold collection with a lavish campaign. The Victoriana collection combines popular Victorian-era stones with Fei Liu’s aesthetic of colour, three-dimension and femininity within its eleven pieces.

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Multi-brand jewellery supplier Gecko has announced a new jewellery collection created in partnership with global womenswear brand Karen Millen. Gecko will work with Karen Millen to produce a brand new 90 piece collection, which will include earrings, necklaces, bracelets and rings.

British adventure watch brand, Elliot Brown, is revealing two new RNLI special edition watches designed in close collaboration with the Royal National Lifeboat Institution (RNLI). For each special edition RNLI watch sold, Elliot Brown will pay £35 in support of the RNLI.

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British casting specialist and fine jewellery manufacturer, Hockley Mint, has relaunched its popular Pure Wedding Rings package with a new branding, new wedding ring sample box and an updated customer-facing website. The new Pure Wedding Rings sample box mirrors the muchloved format of the original, but with a more refined and luxurious feel to better complement the bridal retail environment.

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Jewellery sales, stock monitoring and backoffice technology market leader Pursuit is staging a Grand Prix racing challenge at IJL. Visitors will be able to race with each other on a giant Pro Slot Racing Scalextric 6-car track with digital lane-change overtaking.


Rainbow Gems Salima Thakker V118

Ifos Jewellery Limited U59

ALTI Design PLT V128

Artitus by Faiza Taha U55

Gecko Jewellery D71

Sif Jakobs Jewellery D91

Sif Jakobs Jewellery D91

Fei Liu Fine Jewellery V120

Q&A with Wallace Chan

H

ong Kong-based Wallace Chan, one of the world’s top artist-jewellers, who has featured jade regularly in his pieces, talks to David Brough, IJL’s Precious Metals and Gems Editor, about why jade is revered in Chinese culture. Why is jade important to Chinese collectors, and how important is jade to you as a material in your works? For 6,000 years, Chinese people have found special emotions and meanings in jade. In ancient times, jade was used for weaponmaking. It was also a symbol of love, luck and nobility, and was often regarded as a religious object. Today, it remains part of the Chinese culture and a token of a gentleman’s virtues: humanity, humility, justice, intelligence, bravery and purity. In Chinese language, the words “prince” (王) and “jade” (玉) are different in only one stroke. My interpretation is, the three horizontal strokes

in “prince” (王) denote heaven, earth, and human beings that are in between; while the vertical stroke in the centre symbolizes the connection of heaven, earth, and human beings, and those who can connect the three are as noble as a prince. Jade, then, is that one dot that is an ornament and symbol for those who are noble and worthy.

What are the strengths of jade as a jewellery material and in combination with gemstones and other materials? Jade is a rather broad term. If there are a

thousand kinds of stones, there must be ten thousand kinds of jade. In my works you often see green jade, mutton fat white jade, lavender jade, black jade and red jade. Green jade is translucent. It is a gentle and serene sight to the eyes. White jade, with the texture of mutton fat, draws in light to dance on it and invites one’s touches. Lavender jade has the colour of spiritual wisdom, and symbolises balance. It is the colour you get when mixing blue and red, and as such a perfect balance between calmness and passion. Black jade, despite what the name implies, is in fact dark green in colour. When I polish a piece of black jade, its subtle, mysterious green seduces me. Red jade, when set with rubies, carries out a dialogue of yin and yang, a contrast of smoothness and sparkles. INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY LONDON

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Visit us at IJL Olympia Stand E120


Q&A with Diotima & Co. Welcome to IJL! As a new exhibitor, and a brand-new company in the market, we would love our audience to get to know you… Why don’t you introduce your brand and tell us a bit more about what it is you do?

Diotima & Co. is a global technology company leading the way in creating revolutionary products for the gem and fine-jewellery industries. We are passionate about beauty and tech and finding innovative ways in which the two may meet. We’re launching the Eonia Diamond® at IJL this year. It’s the most advanced diamond alternative in the world. The Eonia Diamond® ◊

Tests positive for diamond

Optically identical to diamond

Rates 9.95-10 on the MOHs Scale

30% tougher than diamond

Eco-friendly and ethically minded

Offers jewellers extraordinary profit margins

Offers customers unparalleled quality at a compelling price point

You have been developing this product for 5 years… Where did you get the idea from in the first place to begin this journey?

We are a customer driven organization. We listened to what jewellers and customers wanted. We heard loud and clear that jewellers wanted to earn a higher margin on a higher quality diamond alternative. We also know that customers have been looking for a truly exceptional and affordable diamond alternative. Our aim is simple, to meet the needs of the market for discerning retailers and buyers alike.

You have used innovative technology to create an outstanding product…Tell us more about the Eonia Diamond® and the technology behind it!

Presently the process to create the Eonia Diamond® has a global patent pending so we can’t divulge too much. What we can say is that it uses cutting edge diamond technology to create an exceptionally beautiful, exciting and unique stone that offers amazing retail opportunities to jewellers globally. In terms of specs, Eonia Diamonds® are always D-F, IF-VVS2 and H&A cut. Just like diamonds are forever, the Eonia Diamond® is too. They’re as hard as diamonds and they’re actually 30% tougher, meaning the Eonia Diamond® is more resistant to chipping and cracking than diamonds. During your seminar at IJL 2019 you will be discussing the importance of technology in our ever-changing industry and how it is revitalising growth in the industry. Could you tell us more about how Diotima & Co. are contributing to this?

Technology has always been the driving force behind creating solutions and adaptability in any consumer market space. The jewellery industry is no different. Choice is the defining factor, and cost and innovation are central to market sustainability. It’s important to add we are not seeking to step on the toes of the diamond industry, instead we are seeking to beneficially add to it and generate interest which otherwise would not exist. Jewellers are looking for viable choices to help them reinvigorate their margins. Likewise, customers want options too.

Whether motivated by ethics or by finances, customers are looking for a truly exceptional alternative to a diamond. In terms of costs, the value our new tech offers will really excite jewellers and customers! The demand for sustainably sourced products, like your Eonia Diamond®, is growing at the moment. Consumers are becoming much more aware of where items are coming from and the impact they are having on the environment. Could you tell us about why this is particularly impacting jewellery and why retailers and designers should be listening carefully to this demand?

Ethics and sustainability are the mantra to 21st century consumers and this reflects on their purchasing choice. 45% of consumers now choose to purchase on the basis of ethics alone. It’s a tenuous and controversial subject, but well documented. The Eonia Diamond® is created in a laboratory, uses a fraction of energy to manufacture (even in comparison to created diamonds), and unlike mined diamonds, the Eonia Diamond® does not damage the environment. What can visitors expect to see from you at IJL 2019?

We are so excited to launch the Eonia Diamond® this year. At IJL, we’ll be demonstrating positive diamond testing at our interactive booth where we’ve also set up some comfy sofas for all to come, hang out, talk and watch us test our tech. We’ll have Eonia Diamonds® on display and select jewellery pieces showcasing the stone. Check us out at booth C130! INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY LONDON

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#KickStarter10 2009

2009 saw stunning, minimal silhouettes from Oria Jewellery, Beth Gilmour and AQA Design; bold, exotic gems inspired by Easter Mystic Jewellery’s Indian heritage; beautiful, prominent smoky quartz stones from Jasmine Alexander Duffy Jewellery; inspired-by-nature shapes from Jasmine Alexander, Alexandra Simpson; Rebecca Steiner and Ulrikke Vogt used pearls and coloured stones to accent pieces; and Linnie Mclarty’s unique methods and materials to create simply amazing signature looks.

2011

Take a look back over 10 years of KickStart and the trends that have shaped the years. 2010

With gold prices soaring, the demand for sterling silver jewellery made a huge comeback and was shown across collections from Poly Philippou Jewellery, Saretta, and Sian Bostwick. Nature inspired collections by Daisy Knights, Saretta and Momocreatura, whereas Jessica De Lotz took household objects and imagined them into beautiful Christopher jewellery. Hannah Bedford took a simplistic Anderson approach to cuffs and rings, and in contrast, Akong London used bold shapes and stones to create statement necklaces. Christopher Anderson and Daisy Choi used creative techniques to introduce eye-catching shapes and styles.

2011 took on a more ‘grunge’ theme with gunmetal, architectural lines and unusual materials taking centre stage, and the KickStart class of 2011 certainly delivered. The hand blown glass forms by Abigail Stradling and delicate, yet dangerous jewellery, made with glass shards from Gina Melosi both touched on the use of unusual materials in the craft. Clean, spiky lines and industrial themes were seen through many of the collections, with Doreth Jones, Sarah Ibrahim, Abigail Stradling Mirpuri & Claire English all hinting at the trend. We looked to Amy Keeper and Cabbage is King for pieces that blurred the lines between art and jewellery. Emma Turpin and La Diosa added a touch of femininity with coloured stones and delicate, fluid shapes.

2012

Space age and futuristic. These are the keywords you may think of when you look back at jewellery in 2012. Every KickStarter this year seemed to incorporate an element of the future. Whether it was the unusual sea urchin shapes from Flavie Michou; the geometric shapes as seen from Myia Bonner, Mandana Oskoui, DeAnna Kiernan and Anna Loucah and Lestie Lee; the rough textures of Ros Millar’s rings; the use of technology in Clarice Price Imogen Belfield Thomas and Jessica Neil’s collections; or the huge statements with rough cut gems from Imogen Belfield – the 2012 winners gave us all something to think about! 10

INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY LONDON

2013

The bigger the better was the motto for jewellery in 2013. Think over-the-top earrings, as seen by Catherin Budd whose shoulder scraping earrings took the trend by storm; colossal cuffs, demonstrated by Anna Byers’s in perspex and plastic, and Sara Gunn’s more tribal take on the trend. Add to these the super-sized necklaces, a trend Jenny Llewellyn, Annabelle Lucilla and Phoebe Jewellery all embraced; and rings worn stacked or dramatic, seen in collections by Katie Jamieson, Kattri, Rosie Sanders and Jenny Llewellyn Christiana Christoforou.


2014

There were two key themes from our group this year, which were on complete opposite sides of the spectrum: stark simplicity or delicate intricacy. Clean lines could be seen through collections from Charlotte Valkeniers, Iwona Majdan, Jeanne Marrell and Keep Me Jewellery, whereas Maksymiuk Agnieszka and Rosie Cara Tonkin May Hoffman introduced mechanical, intricate elements to their pieces. Cardinal of London and Sophie Alice Hirsch incorporated a delicate mix of feathers and precious stones, such as pearls and diamonds into their designs where Cara Tonkin went for minimal, but statement designs.

Abstract and artistic could be used to describe the class of 2016. Materials such as plastic, perspex and enamel were used heavily and featured in collections from Tiki, Joanna Bury and CF Concept, while Emma Calvert and Marina Skia created art as a wearable form. Lucas Joanna Bury Alexander wound rope around rings and bracelets and VYX London created images across a grated effect with tiny gemstones. Addalit, Emily Richardson and Sammie Jo Coxon went for more of an Art Deco vibe with glittering pieces in a variety of colours.

2018

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Flora Bhattachary

2017

2016

Elisavet Messi

2015

2015 was the year of the gemstone, with pieces incorporating precious stones of every colour, size and style. Stones came in bright and plentiful at Laura Parra, Ilene Steele, Gold Neilsen and Flora Bhattachary, delicate and glistening at Francesca Marcenaro and September Rose, and in unusual shapes and textures from Mirka Janeckova. Designers Ellie Air and Rosalie McMillan took a more minimalistic approach with their simply stunning collections.

Shape spoke volumes in 2017 and the KickStarters created talkability with the unique shapes used in their jewellery. Colours were kept to a minimum to really let the shape take centre stage! Lucy Spink and Rhona McCallum created paperchain style necklaces in battered silver. Heather Woof, Alice Barnes and Oddical used geometry to embellish their wearer: Claire McFarlane and Raliegh Goss used stones in exciting colours to create more of an Art Deco style; Becky Dockree wound the human form around the finger to create rings; Ana Simoes Muscari created shapes inspired by nature including the Full Moon ring; and Emily Kidson used teardrop shapes in different colours to create eye-catching curves.

Last year we saw a variety of styles take the stage. The top trends shown in their collections included ‘lace-based’ design, with Ruth Mary and Natalie Perry Jewellery both using the shapes created by lace to inspire and even create their stunning pieces. Blush & Alice Barnes Bashful shone a light on personalisation in jewellery with a range of beautiful interchangeable signet rings while Elisavet Messi and Helen Rankin both incorporated a more industrial look to their collections. Le Ster Jewellery used sculptural shapes and exciting colours to create, what some would say, a ‘Pop Art’ style.

Join us at IJL 2019 to celebrate not only 10 years of KickStarting careers, but also the incredible, cutting-edge talent in this year’s selection of designers. Take in unique contemporary designs featuring URBAN ANIMALS from Aurelie Dellasanta, sample the fluid movement and organic shapes in Becca Macdonald’s work; play with movement in Bine Roth’s innovative and daring crocheted chains; discover how Hannah Blackwood marries the traditional with the technical; be inspired by LUKASCASPAR jewellery as you learn about his innovative techniques and newly developed stone cuts; and finally enjoy a playfulness with Vanessa Pederzani’s unusual and effervescent fine jewellery. INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY LONDON

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PRODUCTS

Put a ring on it

F

rom traditional diamonds to stacks of encrusted bands, IJL exhibitors have the wedding and engagement rings to suit every taste.

UJT Ltd D50

Ge

me

xJ

ew

elle

ry M

anu

fac

tur

ing

D3

0 Ungar & Ungar C59

Silverton Diamonds B101 Cara Jewellers FZCO D141

Domino Jewellery D60

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INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY LONDON

Domino Jewellery D60


BRIDAL TOP TIPS 2019 From TV shows like Say Yes to the Dress to dream wedding Pinterest boards and Instagram accounts, women today are inundated with options for their big day. Here we break down the top tips to help you sell in 2019.

1

Help brides and grooms see that they can start with the classic engagement ring or wedding band and transform it into their own creation through metal combinations, textures, engraving or coloured stones etc.

2

Be prepared with images that show options, from marketing materials to real-life weddings and previous bespoke commissions.

3

Use window displays to demonstrate creative layers and stacking opportunities across bracelets, neckwear and rings.

4

Layer wedding bands either side of the bride-to-be’s engagement ring to upsell and promote the idea of stacking wedding bands.

5

Standing out from the crowd with a unique aesthetic has become vital for brides-to-be. Instead of doing things the traditional way, contemporary brides want a day that is entirely tailored to them and as personalised as possible.

6

Highlight how individualism can be achieved through metal choice, stones and textures.

This article has been compiled from the original article ‘Top Bridal Jewellery Trends for 2019 with Domino Jewellery’ on the IJL Inspire Blog. Visit Domino Jewellery on stand D60 for more information and to view their stunning Bridal collections.


The Digital Age of Jewellery

I

Katherine Ormerod

n the days of old, aka before we spent on average three hours, fifteen minutes scrolling, typing and swiping on our phones every day, jewellery was a category in which timelessness and tradition were valued above all else.

Sure, there were always quirky novelties to showcase a designer’s dexterity and technical know-how. But in the main, trends were evolutionary rather than revolutionary and aesthetics were often safe, created within set boundaries and made to appeal to as many consumers as possible. This was generally because jewellery wasn’t the market it is today. Growing at a clip of around 5-6% per year since the middle of the decade, demand has changed the rules of the game, with categories including fashion jewellery booming and a newly empowered customer— the woman who buys for herself—looking for a more individual, eclectic reflection of her personality. With this new design sensibility, trends have become far more important to the success of collections. As women seek to express

themselves with jewellery, as they once did with their apparel choices, channelling the Zeitgeist has become more important than ever. And the water cooler of that spirit is new media— social platforms like Instagram, Pinterest and Tumblr which have become instrumental in making and breaking trends and in turn brands. The power of the influencer to subtly mould desires and tastes has upended the design funnel and created a feedback loop for creatives to find inspiration and guidance. Think of any jewellery trend over the past two years and it will probably have been supercharged—if it didn’t actually originate—from social media. If I consider the pieces I’ve bought over the past three years, they’ve all been, in some way, influenced by social arbiters of taste, whether introducing me to brands or priming me with INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY LONDON

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trends which suddenly by osmosis, I go from not even thinking about to needing immediately. Shells, medallions, even the dominance of gold have all got social media to thank for their current popularity. The comeback of statement pieces, especially trophy earrings, certainly has a social angle. More delicate jewellery is far harder to photograph and showcase on Instagram squares; if women are investing their hard-earned cash, they want their followers to firstly, be able to see it and secondly, for those in-theknow to recognise the piece and its currency. Working as an influencer myself, I’ve seen first-hand how the process works. Initially, a brand contacts you to select an item as a gift in the hope you may post it on your feed at some point in the near future. Then suddenly you start to see the piece you picked out everywhere—first on other influencers, then regular consumers. It turns out the pendant or chain you instinctively selected is the same accoutrement that other tastemakers chose too, your originality completely overpowered by the collective barometer of taste. In this way, brands can’t push defined trends on influencers—that never works. There has to be an organic element to the process, with genuine engagement, or else a trend never picks up momentum. That is why it is so vital that a creative director or design team is in tune with the aesthetic moves of social platforms and able to respond to the fastmoving micro trends which have the potential to go mega. The trends gaining the most traction now are idiosyncratic and offer a clear signal about the type of woman who wears them. Take the freshwater pearls. Natural, non-spherical and beautifully organic, freshwater pearls often paired with unhewn gold point to a consumer engaged with issues of sustainability and imperfect beauty rather than anything overly polished. Elsewhere, the comeback of heavy gold link chains offers a powerful, 80s and 90s inspired attitude, with a more masculine energy whether they are worn alone or layered up. For the consumer with a penchant for the dainty, this season’s fruit-inspired trend picks up on Instagram’s obsession with peaches, lemons and cherries, adding a burst of summer-time optimism the whole year around. As for new categories of jewellery, the anklet is having a moment with a new erogenous zone identified. Whether super-fine or snake-chained, it’s a must-have item for any fashion insider. When it comes to precious and semi-precious stones, the trend for horizontally set, narrow emerald cut stones is certain to gather steam in the season ahead. And for the truly fun at heart, the vogue for brights—from pretty coloured stones to beads adds a pick ‘n’ mix, youthful approach to any jewellery box. No matter the woman, there’s a social-media inspired trend, just waiting to be discovered.

As women seek to express themselves with jewellery, as they once did with their apparel choices, channelling the Zeitgeist has become more important than ever

Caption 16

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TRENDS

#Trending

O

ur influencers’ top picks as shown in our exhibitors pieces. Make sure you are buying the hottest trends in jewellery this year.

Gecko - D71

Gecko - D71 Samuel Jones Pearls B109ç

Ora Pearls V30

Salima Thakker V118

Mark Milton D80

Isabella Liu V108

Ora Pearls V30

Alti Design PLT V128

Ifos Jewellery U59

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TRENDS

SS20 Trends

PAOLA DE LUCA 18

F

ounder of The Futurist and leading international trend forecaster, Paola De Luca, delves into the six key trends that will shape SS20 for jewellery retailers, brands and designers, exclusively for IJL.

INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY LONDON


TRENDS

Calm Pop There is a sense of creative freedom reflected in the jewellery of the ‘Calm Pop’ trend. The trend draws on the fundamental means to face contemporary challenges and the spirit of the 60’s and 70’s, bringing to mind the current female struggles with a candid filter. Style rules are reversed and an anythinggoes mantra is followed – where unique offerings routed in peak feminism decades flourish. In an era of information overdose consumers are hypercreative – as their inner creativity unleashes, they feel an increased sense of calm. Key Themes:

Retro, Vintage Pastels, Childish Blocks, Feminine, Pinks, Soft, Iridescent

Shaped Expressions Global changes and uncertainty are the influencers of this trend and it looks at how this has affected consumer’s behaviour – what they choose to expose themselves to; whether that be how and where they socialise, what they put into their bodies and how they dress. Abstract geometries influenced by multicultural elements, varied shapes combined with latest technologies become a way of expression allowing them to feel a sense of control over their lives. The jewellery becomes a way to stand out, stand up and be heard. Consumers push themselves out of their comfort zone: discomfort inspires action. Key Themes:

Deconstructed, Sleek, Art wire, Geometric, Plain, Smooth

Remember Nature The power of nature, a dark and magical one, will affect consumer behaviour. The modern mix of consumer beautifully encompasses an East-meets-West aesthetic. With a decadent allure that moves through art, nature and occult, this consumer boasts a deco edge inspired by the nineteenth century. Innovation will draw upon the wisdom of nature and the knowledge of ancient practices and fascinating cultures. Key Themes: Naturalism, Animals, Decadent, Ethereal, Insects, Wings, Bees

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TRENDS

Digital Psychedelia This trend has a futuristic look that taps into a minimalistic way of expression. Hyper casual and functional styles are favoured with wearables being the norm and tech infused materials helping to ensure the consumer feels sharp and updated. The jewellery becomes a symbol of rebellion against society’s stereotypes as the push for a world where everyone’s minds are open, where there are no societal pressures and everyone can be who they want to be, grows. The digital nature and aesthetics ensure this trend is truly global. Key Themes:

Ultra digital, Retraction, Ultraviolet, Synthetic, Urban, Colourful Gems, Opals, Pearls, Faceted

Elemental Pure, authentic and unique – people will be who they want to be, whether that falls within hyper-femininity or hyper-masculinity on the apparel and accessories spectrum. Fashion is no longer about gender blurring but a completely new form of dressing. The mobile-first consumer are living their lives through digital means, which results in information being so easilyattained. Minimal, clean yet solid silhouettes, sporty styles and more urban jewellery finish their look perfectly. Key Themes:

Minimal, Tech, Urban, Sporty, Graphic, Leather, Coloured Metals

Nocturnal Wave The theme dives deep into the self-exploratory phase connecting with universe, cosmos and nocturnal elements, jewellery becomes an extension of the wearer’s personal development process. A new approach that blurs the lines between cultures and countries results in an aesthetic that feels personal with a heightened expression of individuality. Gemstones like opals, lapis lazuli and larvikite translate their visions and thoughts into statement making jewels. Covetable items are worth the wait: value is not only communicated in price but also time. A meditative attitude is embraced, showing a new, more reflexive and conscious consumer. Key Themes:

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Nightlight, Magic, Cosmos, Darkness, Larvikite, Opals, Lapis lazuli, Marble


TRENDS

The IJL Trend Board N

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complete guide to the trends you should be buying for Spring / Summer 20 and the brands to fulfil your needs. Your buying journey begins here.

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Gems of the World Europe Ltd/ YV Brands E71

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Gems of the World Europe Ltd/ YV Brands E71

Isabella Liu V108

Gecko D71 Tezer GmbH V98

Calm Pop

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Key Themes: Retro, Vintage Pastels, Childish Blocks, Feminine, Pinks, Soft, Iridescent

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Fei Liu Fine Jewellery V120

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Lucy Quartermaine E48

Cara Tonkin V78

C W Sellors Fine Jewellery D40

De Key T cad h ent eme , Et s: N her atu r eal , In alism sec , An ts, i Win mals, gs, Be es

Lido Pearls F81

Fei Liu Fine Jewellery V120

Ora Pearls V30

Sheldon Bloomfield C81

Goralska Jewellery Paris A28

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Salima Thakker V118

TRENDS

lia e d e h c ction, l, Retra tal Psy

Digi

a ms, ra digit Colourful Ge t l U : s an, eme Key Th ynthetic, Urb ceted olet, S ls, Pearls, Fa Ultravi Opa

Pearls of the Orient F69 Ifos Jewellery U59

Sheldon Bloomfield C81 TreasureBay E79

Sif Jakobs Jewellery D91

Nova

Silver

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Clogau Gold of Wales Limited D61

Mark Milton D80

Ora Pearls V30

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Key Dark Themes ness : , Larv Nightlig h ikite , Opa t, Magic ,C ls, La pisla osmos, zuli, Marb le

Elliot Brown D21a

Elemental

Unique & Co. E61

Key Themes: Minimal, Tech, Urban, Sporty, Graphic, Leather, Coloured Metals

Annie Mundy Jewellery N48

Midhaven Ltd - Tribal Steel F79

Salima Thakker V118

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Atlas Accessories V29 Unique & Co. E61

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Graduate Fashion Week

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raduate Fashion Week (GFW), the leading international event for fashion graduates, and International Jewellery London (IJL) have announced a unique

collaboration to celebrate the fusion of fashion and jewellery. Six GFW high flying graduates will showcase their inspirational collections alongside an insightful overview of the High Street Jewellery Trends. Lingshan Fan

GFW is a showcase for the imagination and design innovation – shaping the way fashion works as well as looks. The Graduate Fashion Foundation has, over the past 28 years, supported and guided more than 100,000 newly graduated and undergraduate students, many of whom have since become international stars, such as Christopher Bailey, Julien Macdonald and Stella McCartney. The six GFW graduates are alumni of the 2019 GFW event, their collections will be showcased at IJL 2019. They

Allison Ore

include GFW (Catwalk) Award winner Hannah Stote from Bath Spa University (Catwalk Knitwear Award) and Best Collection finalists Holly Bryant also from Bath Spa, Allison Ore, Zhixue Xie and Lingshan Fan graduates from Central Lancashire University, together with Laura Collins from Liverpool John Moore’s University.

Holly Bryant

“This is a magnificent opportunity for six talented young graduates from the Graduate Fashion Week Gala Awards show, and the ideal manner in which to demonstrate the inspiring synergy between fashion and jewellery.” – Hilary Alexander OBE, President of Graduate Fashion Foundation and Graduate Fashion Week.

Hannah Stote Knitwear

Laura Collins

Zhixue Xie

The GFW Catwalk will take place on Monday 2nd September 2019 from 3pm at the Catwalk Theatre.


PRODUCTS

The talent of the future

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eet the cutting edge talent in the Kickstart and Bright Young Gem class of 2019. View their collections on their collective stand in the IJL Design Gallery. Lingjun Sun Bright Young Gem U36

Isla Gilham, Bright Young Gem U35

Eloise Kramer Bright Young Gem U38 LUKASCASPAR Jewellery Kickstarter U49 Bine Roth Jewellery Kickstarter U47

Aurelie Dellasanta Kickstarter U45

Hannah Blackwood Jewellery Kickstarter U41

Vanessa Pederzani Kickstarter U43

WenJu Tseng Bright Young Gem U37

Becca Macdonald Studio Kickstarter U39


A Change of Times for Watches Jon Weston, Director of British School of Watchmaking, shares his insights Tell us a bit more about the British School of Watchmaking.

The BSoW is the only facility in the UK teaching CFC qualifications, which are preferred by the world’s leading watch houses. We now have an 1800 hrs service watchmaker course (the first in Europe) and a 3000hrs course that involves more of the micro mechanics. We have produced 77 watchmakers since opening in 2006, they are all essential additions to the industry. Talk to us about the importance of continuing to nurture homegrown watch-making talent and the impact this has on the industry?

There is a shortage for all in this sector and new blood is desperately needed. More than half of the current workforce in watchmaking are over 50 years of age, so new blood is essential, not only from a service point of view, but also to protect the fine art of watchmaking. Sales of watches here in the UK have ballooned, additional homegrown talent will be needed to maintain these timepieces in the next 10-15 years and beyond. What trends do you see playing a big part in watches for the next season?

I see the pre-owned developing strongly alongside the brands and of course these also need service centres to cater for these. I would strongly urge all workshops within the UK to get involved with the BSoW for this reason. The hard-to-get watches out there will see increasing demand and waiting lists because they are so special. Managing client expectations is a regular part of our industry both in the sales and aftersales sectors. You will be participating at IJL 2019 in the brand new Watch District, why do you think it is important for watch brands to take part in events like IJL?

I’ve witnessed a dramatic increase in the quality of stands at the show in recent times, it’s becoming more of an important event in the calendar, so it’s great to see the watch 26

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element being more involved. In a perfect world it would be great to see it develop as a mini Baselworld; watches attract buyers, so I think it’s essential to attract more of them, the mix would be a winning formula.

Jon, you have a retail background… The UK’s retail market has recently been going through some changes, how would you say this had an impact on the watch industry and how should brands be working to thrive in challenging times?

How have changes in technology and social media affected the industry?

It’s no secret that retail in general is suffering in the UK, but there are some bright lights too. Brand identity is everything whether you are the local brand or global. You need a clear image strategy to adhere to, without compromise. The ‘shopping experience’ is so vital today, whether it’s digital or in your showroom, it’s essential to develop your own mystery shopping programme ensuring every member of your team is working within the best practices of your company. You also need to be offering what your key audience wants. It’s paramount to ‘stay hungry for it’ – keep that fire in your belly and always push forwards, keeping a keen eye open for opportunities… you never know when they may occur.

This area is huge now and what works and what’s popular changes on a weekly basis. My personal experience is that it raises awareness and drives sales, no one can afford to ignore it today. Consumers shopping habits have changed, we need to react appropriately, not to get left behind! How has the introduction of ‘Smart’ watches impacted the industry?

Put simply, it has affected the traditional watch market under £500, however, the brands affected have innovated with inspiring ideas to retain some market share. It’s convenient to have all the gadgets and it appeals to pretty much all age groups, mostly the younger ones of course. I think it’s here to stay and it will develop even further.


The Ones to Watch Elliot Brown Elliot Brown will be revealing two new RNLI special edition watches designed in close collaboration with the Royal National Lifeboat Institution (RNLI). For each special edition RNLI watch sold, Elliot Brown will pay £35 in support of the RNLI. The special edition RNLI Canford and Kimmeridge watches both feature a watch face influenced by the iconic Lifeboat colours along with subtle white and blue 12h markers, giving a unique reference to the white and blue boat hooks still carried by every life boat since the beginning of the service. The historical reference continues on the caseback where special permission was granted to feature the original RNLI anchor and the fitting words of Sir William Hillary: “With courage nothing is impossible.” Find Elliot Brown in the Watch District on Stand D21a.

Kronaby @ Unique & Co. London based Unique & Co is currently the exclusive distributor of all the Festina Group watch brands and will be responsible for the service and distribution of the Kronaby brand of products in the UK with immediate effect. The Kronaby watch brand boasts brand awareness on a global scale thanks to its unique brand DNA combining connected technology with a distinct Scandinavian design. Director and founder of Unique & Co, Daniel Ozel, comments: ‘Adding a new brand, particularly in the hybrid and smartwatch sector to the Festina Group portfolio is a great business opportunity. With the

experience and resources of the Festina Group, Kronaby will be lifted to the next level. Kronaby has standout design and technology and quality of watch-making that we at Unique & Co. are excited to represent.’ Find Unique & Co. and Kronaby on stand E61. INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY LONDON

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SPECIAL FEATURE

Spotlight on Sheffield

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heffield has a long history in the jewellery business stretching back centuries. The south Yorkshire city is the home of one of the UK’s four Assay Offices, as well as a fast-emerging bracelet manufacturer, Bailey of Sheffield, which uses the raw material Sheffield is best known for – stainless steel. It is also the venue for a new selling event, Goldsmiths North. David Brough reports.

Sheffield Assay Office, one of four Assay Offices in the UK, offers outstanding customer service including fast and efficient collection and delivery, and hallmarking using state-of-the-art technologies and experienced staff. With a dedicated workforce of 70, many of whom have long service, the Sheffield Assay Office provides a comprehensive hallmarking service for gold, silver, platinum and palladium articles, as well as a metals analysis lab in a highly secure environment. The Sheffield Assay Office, with a history approaching 250 years, has many clients among industry leaders, from Bulgari and De Beers, to Warren James and The Jewellery Channel. “The point of difference (against the competition) is in the higher quality of our service, as well as cost of production and price,” said Ashley Carson, Sheffield Assay Master, who has held the position for 26 years, the longest serving Assay Master in the UK. “We also pride ourselves on a low turnover of staff and a ‘family atmosphere’ here.”

Hallmarking Trends The Sheffield Assay Office is currently seeing an increasing trend for hallmarking of 18-carat gold and platinum articles for the jewellery trade, and strong demand for hallmarking of 22-carat gold items submitted by the British Asian trade. Overall, the quantity of hallmarked 28

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items has dipped in the last few years, a reflection of how much disposable income British consumers will spend on jewellery during a period of economic uncertainty linked to Brexit. Carson believes that hallmarking is a vital component in the quality and integrity of jewellery sold in the UK market, as it is a guarantor of authenticity, and is key to consumer protection. Sheffield Assay Office is a member of the Hallmarking Convention and has applied for accreditation to the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC). Many of the articles that arrive for hallmarking at the Sheffield Assay Office’s one-acre site, come from manufacturers overseas, notably China, India and Thailand, highlighting that much of the jewellery sold in the UK was made abroad. In the UK, the Sheffield Assay Office sends vehicles efficiently around the country, to centres such as Hatton Garden and Birmingham, to collect articles for hallmarking, with full insurance, and offers quick turnaround times depending on location. Hallmarking takes place across a large space at the Sheffield Assay Office, using the latest equipment for detection of metals, and stamping of the hallmark by hand, carried out by experienced staff, or by laser. Clients decide whether they want hallmarking by hand or by laser. The Sheffield Assay Office also houses a laboratory, adjacent to the hallmarking area, offering a range of services in metals

analysis and detection, including use of chemical techniques, and melting of bullion for hallmarking. The Assay Office has the advantage of a vast office space and facilities, including opportunities for businesses and associations to rent its tastefully appointed and highly secure social and dining areas for corporate entertainment. The Sheffield Assay Office has the unique advantage of a large car parking space on-site for the benefit of clients and visitors.

Spotlight on a Sheffield Jewellery Brand Bailey of Sheffield blends craftsmanship with a celebration of stainless steel Bailey of Sheffield creates stainless steel bracelets that blend innovative craftsmanship and design flair with a celebration of the industrial metal’s heritage. Based in the listed Portland Works, where stainless steel cutlery was manufactured for the first time, Bailey of Sheffield combines the innovative spirit of an ambitious, outwardly looking new business with a deep respect for Sheffield’s industrial heritage. The CABLE™ Bracelet was the launch product – a customisable stainless steel 316L bracelet available in a range of PVD colours and finishes. The pieces are popular with both men and women buying for themselves or as gifts.


Bailey of Sheffield, owned by Scott and Adele Bailey, were inundated with enquiries and orders at the Company of Master Jewellers’ (CMJ) trade event in Birmingham in August 2017, when they rolled out their stainless steel bracelets to the UK’s biggest buying group of independent retailers. Jewellers Green & Benz in northern England, and Allum & Sidaway in the south, then began to stock Bailey of Sheffield in their shops. The meticulously crafted bracelets, in a range of attractive colours, showcase stainless steel beads representing a variety of themes and emotions, from industrial processes to the heart. ”It is very much up to the customer to decide how they want to configure and design their own bracelet,” Scott Bailey said, speaking at his workshop inside the Portland Works in the Highfield district of Sheffield, a few hundred metres from Sheffield United’s football ground. “It’s about understated pieces that adapt with you and your changing style. Each piece is all about you -- to curate your own personal style. We just give you a firm, well forged foundation.” Customers can configure their own stainless steel bracelet designs on the Bailey of Sheffield transactional website. “We are constantly open to new ideas for designs and welcome communications from designers – or indeed anyone – who has an idea for a new bead design,” Scott said. “If we approve a bead design, we would be delighted to credit the designer with a royalty.” Millennials are showing a growing interest in personalisation of products and are increasingly seeking custom-made jewellery at middle price points as well as for top tier luxury products, studies show. While the immediate priority is to consolidate in the UK market, Bailey of Sheffield have plans to grow their business internationally after receiving strong enquiries from the United States where they are looking to establish an agent to distribute the bracelets.

Sheffield is home of Goldsmiths North Goldsmiths North, a summer selling event for European and UK contemporary silverware and jewellery, launched in Sheffield from July 12-14, 2019. Goldsmiths North, which took place in Cutlers’ Hall, showcased the work of some 60 individual designers and craftsmen. “Goldsmiths North provides a new and specifically tailored selling platform to skilled and innovative creative businesses within the precious metals sector,” said organiser Katherine Payne. “It is a retail selling fair bringing the best of designer jewellery and silversmithing from the UK and Europe to the north of England,” she added. “Our decision that Sheffield would be the best location has been arrived at through careful consideration and we feel that we will be operating in a new, untapped, enthusiastic and affluent market.” Visit the Spotlight on Sheffield on stand U21b

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The Goldsmiths’ Centre – Expanding Our Reach and Impact

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hank you for an inspirational few days! I’ll never look in my kitchen cupboards in same way again!” commented a Higher Education tutor from Northern Ireland, having just participated in an inspirational “Blushing Metals Masterclass” at Ulster University with silversmith Adi Toch. Organised by the Goldsmiths’ Centre, this three-day CPD programme marked just one of many initiatives in 2019, aiming to widen the charity’s reach nationally and bring together networks of goldsmithing, affiliated industry and education staff.

Since opening its doors in 2012, the Goldsmiths’ Centre’s has been pursuing its charitable purpose, which is “to advance, maintain and develop art, craft, design and artisan skills, including (but not exclusively) those related to goldsmithing.” From its London base near Hatton Garden, it has strived to provide the highest quality education and training opportunities for those working or aspiring to work in the industry. Alongside a comprehensive programme of full and part-time technical courses it has also introduced a “Business Growth Programme” to an ever-expanding UK audience. From the sixteen-year olds learning traditional hand skills and techniques on its Foundation Programme, the brightest university graduates improving their business skills on the annual Getting Started programme to the award-winning apprentices on the Goldsmiths’ Company’s Apprenticeship Scheme, the impact of its charitable activity on an individual’s career development is tangible and demonstrable. As the Goldsmiths’ Centre looks to the future, the charity continues to search for ways to support the development of its community and the wider industry. Increasing its reach and impact whether through education and training, unique and inspirational visits for its members, working in partnership with industry 30

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bodies or simply making it easier for both consumers and practitioners to access the craft. The aim is to invigorate the trade, share knowledge, resources and local expertise, provide access to relevant support and opportunities both face to face and through a range of outreach activity. Partnership and collaboration play an important part in delivering against the Goldsmiths’ Centre vision which has been further reinforced by the availability of funding to support projects delivered by our partners. This has allowed the Centre to work with and support large scale projects by the Contemporary British Silversmiths, Bishopsland Educational Trust, Goldsmiths Craft and Design Council as well as smaller projects by Birmingham City University and the Institute of Professional Goldsmiths. Launched in 2018, its work with higher education hubs connects teaching staff and technicians from different institutions and provides opportunities for them to pass new skills on to their students. The Goldsmiths’ Centre is delighted to have so far engaged with universities and training providers in Scotland, Northern Ireland and the South East with future plans to introduce this initiative in the Midlands, North West and South West. These outreach activities are complemented by an expanding range

of digital resources these include a new searchable online database, the Supplier Directory. This will signpost quality suppliers to the jewellery, silversmithing and allied industries and providing a free platform to promote their services to craftspeople across the UK. In addition, its first online teaching course will help individuals to prepare for selling events. Building upon the training provided by the Centre for the graduate stand holders at Goldsmiths’ Fair, the new materials will target all aspects of preparing and maximising selling events. From their initial application and preparation for the event through to the curation of their display and how to maximise sales. Taking place in a virtual classroom each group of participants is provided with peer to peer feedback on assignments further strengthening the effectiveness of the course materials provided. The Goldsmiths’ Centre is committed to the future of the craft, trade and industry here in the UK. Building from its success to date over the next decade it will amplify its reach and impact by working in partnership, developing new products and services that reflect the rapidly changing nature of the sector. Our goal is to engage and connect more participants and audiences, at every stage of their careers than ever before.


5 must-know facts about the British jewellery industry Chana Baram, Mintel Retail Analyst The jewellery sector continues to thrive While many UK high-street fashion retailers are facing very public struggles, demand for jewellery and watches in the UK has remained robust. According to Mintel figures sales of jewellery and watches reached £5.7 billion in 2018, up 2.9% from 2017. The market is expected to show even stronger growth in 2019, rising an estimated 3.5% to £5.9 billion. Demand for high jewellery has been a driver of this growth, as customers have moved away from cheaper branded jewellery and are looking for keepsakes and investment pieces. Meanwhile, there is an increased desire from younger consumers for bespoke jewellery pieces as well as a continued interest in the demifine category, which is more accessible and youthful than fine jewellery.

Consumers are ready to embrace sustainability The tendency for people to research online ahead of purchase is likely to drive demand for more than just lower prices: awareness of the social and environmental impact of the jewellery industry has increased over the last few years. With 55% of UK jewellery buyers saying it’s important for them that the jewellery/ watches they purchase are made ethically, there is a real opportunity for retailers to boost customer loyalty by offering more information about ethically sourced jewellery and watches.

Appetite for man-made diamonds is on the rise Despite widespread efforts to reassure consumers that the diamonds they buy are conflict-free, there are still doubts about the ethical practices used in the

exploration and production of diamonds; this has cast a shadow over the industry and impacted consumers’ gemstone buying behaviour. It seems that consumers are ready for synthetic diamonds, as a quarter agree that man-made diamonds are as good as natural ones. Recognising a demand, the iconic diamond brand De Beers has launched a man-made, labproduced diamond fashion jewellery range in 2018.

Diversity remains a challenge Men are increasing their spending across several fashion categories, including jewellery, and items that were once viewed as stereotypically feminine are no longer so. According to Mintel research, the amount of 16-34 year old men who purchased fashion jewellery nearly doubled between 2016 and 2018. Men are now wearing long necklaces, rings, bracelets and bangles as a way to express themselves and also to emulate male celebrities that are regularly seen wearing fashion jewellery. While some brands have begun to cater to this demographic, including Tiffany’s newly announced collection for men, almost a third of British consumers still think that jewellery retailers don’t dedicate enough space to men’s jewellery. Whilst it is unlikely that the men’s jewellery market will truly compete with the women’s any time soon, there is no denying that this part of the market is becoming more important. Same-sex marriages should also be an area of focus for jewellery retailers and brands. Same-sex marriage became legal in the UK in 2014 and since then the numbers of same-sex couples choosing to marry has been steadily rising. This presents an opportunity for jewellery retailers to tap into this market and

promote more jewellery and engagement collections for same-sex couples. According to research from Mintel’s upcoming Jewellery & Watches Retailing Report, a quarter of consumers currently agree that there isn’t enough diversity in jewellery advertising.

Social media helps brand awareness Social media is an invaluable tool for jewellery brands. Once limited to raising awareness, Instagram is now increasingly becoming a shopping tool. Brands like Maria Tash, Monica Vinader and Missoma give the option to purchase items over Instagram – directing users straight to their websites to purchase the items photographed with just a couple of taps. While these demi-fine jewellery brands have relied heavily on Instagram and influencer marketing to thrive, it has taken the fine jewellery and watch market a little longer to embrace social media and online shopping. This is partly due to a certain level of mistrust, as over half of jewellery shoppers admit they’d be too nervous to buy an expensive watch or piece of jewellery online. However, many fine jewellery brands that are unattainable for most consumers, particularly younger ones with a penchant for social media, have started using Instagram to put their aspirational brand names into the minds of consumers that may become future buyers. Chana Baram is a Retail Analyst at Mintel, the world’s leading market intelligence agency. She writes reports on the fashion retail sector, specialising in jewellery, footwear and sustainable fashion. At IJL, she’ll present “Challenges and opportunities facing the jewellery retail industry” on Tuesday 3 September at 12.30 in the Inspiration theatre. INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY LONDON

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IJL @ Liberty

An evening with Dinny Hall and Alexandra Shulman In February, IJL held its first ever consumer event, an in conversation between award-winning British jewellery designer, Dinny Hall, and fashion consultant and former editor of British Vogue, Alexandra Shulman, at famous London department store, Liberty.

‘It’s great to be able to discuss what jewellery means to people, it’s such a big part of all our lives’ – Alexandra Shulman

The event was a sell-out with members of the public coming to listen to these two leading lights in British fashion discuss Dinny’s career in jewellery and how important the jewellery industry is to fashion.

‘I see Jewellery in everything, from door knobs to flowers to walks in the country,… the world is there and everything is a potential earring’ – Dinny Hall

Q&A: Sofie Macaenruig

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ofie Macaenruig has been named the first ever winner of the IJL Bursary, a bursary created to support a shining graduate from Birmingham City University. Inspired by her passion for sword fighting and battle, her collection of laser engraved signet rings form an armour for the wearer. We caught up with her in an exclusive for IJL Inspire to find out more about her work and inspirations.

Where do you get your inspiration from?

I get my inspiration from my life and the medieval full contact sword fighting sport I compete in internationally. Fighting with my team Swords of Cygnus and as an individual duellist abroad and in the UK is what I live for. It inspires and drives everything that I do really. It’s a lifestyle and has had a massive influence on the original inspirations for my work. Tell us a little about the collection that saw you awarded the IJL bursary?

I created a collection of decorative laser engraved signet rings. The decorative detail on the signet heads was inspired by various HMB (Historical Medieval Battle) sword fighting clubs based in the UK. Each design is inspired by the heraldry of a particular club and designed around individual fighters, their favoured weapons and disciplines. 32

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Talk us through your design process and what goes in to making one of your fantastic rings?

I start with creating a decorative heraldic emblem based on whatever theme I’m feeling inspired by at the time. The majority of the time my passion is driven by the sword fighting so I focussed on that in this collection. The next step is sketching out rough dimensions and profile shapes for the signet. At this point I consider the shoulder detail and draw inspiration from elements within the heraldic emblem I designed at the beginning of the process. I bring my sketches to life using Matrix and 3D printing. After casting I take it back to the bench, my favourite place to be, and finish it by hand, before sending it off with a hand drawn black and white version of my emblem to the laser engravers. The full interview with Sofie can be found on the IJL Inspire Blog.


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