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Buen Camino: A Modern-Day Pilgrimage For over a thousand years, the city of Santiago de Compostela, Spain, has welcomed weary pilgrims with open arms. Each year Spaniards and travelers from around the world trek hundreds of miles through the rolling green hills, wooded forests, and pastoral fields of the Camino de Santiago, asand the warmhearted people of Spain wish them “buen camino” or “good walk.” You too can make the pilgrimage and take in the stunning scenery, the rejuvenating camaraderie

Comment [J. Ogborn1]: Jessica, Thank you for your hard work on this article. Eve and I were concerned about having the transitions between topics flow in a cohesive way. So, Eve spent extra time on your draft and suggests moving a few of your paragraphs around. I hope you will be willing to consider her suggestions because I think she has shared several good ideas. I have reviewed the results of her efforts, and I think that she suggests a good idea for adjusting the order of the paragraphs and headings.

of other travelers, and the unexpected exhilaration of walking. Know Tthe Legend “It’s such an authentic way to see a place. It’s beyond seeing Spain,” says 24-year-old Brittany Koteles, who completed the Camino in 2010 while studying in Spain. “You’re retracing the steps of a journey that thousands of people have made, and you’re sharing that with strangers. You’re

Thank you for allowing us to work with you on this fun project. I am excited to see your final draft because I know you’ll do a great job. Julie Ogborn November 1, 2013 Comment [U2]: Jessica, this color of comments are from Alison. Sorry, I'm on a work computer and I cannot figure out how to get the User name to change. Comment [SP3]: Fact checked.

crossing a country on foot and seeing the beauty that its has, and you’re meeting the people who live there. You can’t have a much more authentic tourist experience than that.” The Camino de Santiago, a modern pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela, is lined with sacred history. Adventurers have flocked to thise road path since AD 814, when, according to legend, a shower of a shower of falling stars led a Spanish hermit to the hidden tomb of the apostle Saint James through the path now called the Camino de Santiago. Many Christians still believe that Santiago de Compostela is the site of Saint James’s burial. —bBut you don’t have to be a traditional pilgrim to embark on thisa soul-searching journey.; aAll you need is a pair of walking shoes and a hunger to see life in a new way. “It’s such an authentic way to see a place. It’s beyond seeing Spain,” says 24-year-old

Comment [SP4]: Fact checked. Santiagocompostela.net. Formatted: Font: Italic Comment [E5]: (This is Eve.) What about something like “the spiritual exhilaration of a week-long pilgrimage” or something like that? You also call it a “road of introspection” later... Comment [E6]: This introduction is so long that I wonder if, after the first paragraph, you ... Comment [JJ7]: I’m trying to pack a lot of information into my intro, and I’m left with this sentence that I don’t particularly like. I ... Formatted: Indent: First line: 0" Comment [J. Ogborn8]: I think this paragraph needs to come second in this section. Comment [E9]: This feels a little repetitive. What if you begin this paragraph with the second sentence? “Adventurers have flocked to ... Comment [U10]: Style checked in Chicago 9.35

Brittany Koteles, who completed the Camino in 2010 while studying in Spain. “You’re retracing

Comment [E11]: Does Compostela mean? Why are people so enamored of James?

the steps of a journey that thousands of people have made, and you’re sharing that with

Comment [E12]: Chicago now says a singular name ending in “s” is made possessive with an apostrophe “s” Formatted: Font: Italic


strangers,” Koteles explains. “You’re crossing a country on foot and seeing the beauty that it has, and you’re meeting the people who live there—you can’t have a much more authentic tourist experience than that.”Travelers on the Camino de Santiago find their reward in their personal journey, not just in their destination. The noun camino in Spanish means “the way” or “the

Comment [SP13]: Fact checked: MerriamWebster

journey,” but as a verb, camino means, “I walk.” This isn’t just another European vacation—it’s

Formatted: Font: Not Italic

a chance for you to walk purposefully along a gratifying road of introspection. “Sometimes I think we turn tourism into a to-do list,” says Koteles. “This trip is one of the best ways to counter that. It’s a way to let travel facilitate your learning about other places, and other people—but also about yourself.” Makeing Your Own Adventure Everything about this modern pilgrimage can be personalized,— including the extent to which you plan ahead, the pathway you take, and the length of your journey, and the extent to which you plan ahead—can be personalized. Preparation

Comment [E14]: This final paragraph of the intro feels misplaced. It feels like a continuation of your introduction, but you’ve already ended your introduction in the previous paragraph. I would suggest cutting it. The quote is great, though. Consider incorporating it elsewhere—later in the story or earlier in the introduction. Comment [AM15]: To increase cohesiveness between this and the previous sentence, maybe add something about how current travelers don't need to follow every step former pilgrims made—your trip can be highly personalized. That way we relate to the former sentence and lead into the personalization.

Don’t be afraid to set out without a distinct plan. Read online forums like

Comment [J. Ogborn16]: Would you be willing to change the order of this list to match the order of the subsections that follow to help readers know what to expect next?

www.caminodesantiago.me to find out what other travelers have done. If you’re in Spain or

Formatted: Font: Not Bold, Italic

southern France, “take your passport or some sort of ID and go to nearly any city’s culture department or town hall, and they’ll tell you where to go,” says Koteles. If you’re already in Europe, the Camino is a journey you can be impulsive about because it’s not going to break the bank.; Most of the paths wind through the verdant, hill-covered countryside of Galicia in northern Spain,. where you’ll traverse amazing countryside on $15–20 a day. Pilgrims often carry only the bare necessities on their backs and spend their days strolling through picturesque medieval villages and culturally rich cities as passersby wish them a “buen

Comment [AM17]: We might connect this paragraph to the previous ideas by saying something like "The Camino is also appealing to spontaneous or quick trips since travelers don't need to set out with a distinct plan." Formatted: Indent: First line: 0" Comment [J. Ogborn18]: Comment [E19]: This sentence feels somewhat awkward. What about, “If you’re already in Europe, make room for this affordable once-in-a-lifetime adventure—you can get by on $15–20 per day” or something like that. Comment [J. Ogborn20]: I think this fits more cohesively here. Could we try this? Comment [E21]: These references are typically spelled out, but I suggest the dollar sign for easier reading.


camino.” Most travelers appear on the path during their summer vacations, but if you want to experience better weather and smaller crowds, go in May. Most of the paths wind through the verdant, hill-covered countryside of Galicia in northern Spain. “They call it the España verde, the green Spain, because there are forests and beautiful

Comment [E22]: I remember this phrase from the beginning, so its reuse may be overkill— what do Julie and Bro. Gardner think? Comment [E23]: It sounds best as “better weather and smaller crowds” or “best weather and smallest crowds”—but the change is up to you. Comment [SP24]: Fact checked. Spain.info.

cliffs, and mountains. There’s so much more to Spain than flamenco and the Mediterranean backdrop,” says Koteles. “This trip is more than an immersion into Spanish culture; it’s an immersion into Camino culture. You’re in an environment that allows you to learn from the stories of the people. You bond quickly because you’re achieving this crazy amazing task— together.” Paths Whether you are traveling for spirituality, for exercise, or for scenic retreat, “there’s no grand beginning,” recalls Koteles. “We took a night bus to Lugo about 120 km [75 miles] outside of Santiago. We got off the bus at 7 a.m. and started walking—and we didn’t stop for five days. You think you’re going to get lost and that you won’t be able to find the path, but we just asked somebody where the Camino was and they showed us to the first sign.” Koteles explains that symbols of a scallop shell, the sign of Saint James, officially mark the direction of the path., bBut in the wilderness, spray-painted–yellow arrows and footprints of other pilgrims will show you the way. There are nearly thirty recognized trails on the network of paths referred to as the Camino de Santiago. Whether you’re starting in Spain, France, Portugal, or even Germany, there is a path that will get you to Santiago de Compostela. One of the best ways to choose between them is to first determine how long you have to travel and from which city or country you will start. From there, you can visit a website such as www.csj.org.uk to learn more about each particular path.

Comment [AM25]: This part of the quote kind of veers off from what I think you were getting at in this section—the hills. Is there somewhere else we could put this idea? Perhaps in the fellowship section? Also, I think the heading title could be more appropriate. Something along the lines of preparing: knowing when to go and how to be physically ready. Do you agree? Formatted: Font: Italic Formatted: Indent: First line: 0" Formatted: Font: Italic Comment [E26]: These sentences sound very similar. What about “or for scenic retreat, ‘there’s no grand beginning’ to the Camino, recalls Koteles. ‘We took a night bus…’” Comment [E27]: I would suggest making kilometers the default throughout the piece. It’s odd for a U.S.-based magazine, but we’re talking about Europe, and you cite km often. Comment [E28]: Not sure about the tense— should she be speaking past tense since it isn’t a news article? Comment [SP29]: Fact checked. Called the Scallop Shell, but it’s up to you if you want to include that. I think it could be good to explain this origins of this symbol and how it came to be if your word count allows for it. Even just one more sentence would be enough. Comment [E30]: As long as you don’t use “the,” I think you’re fine (“the,” for some reason, implies that we already know something about scallop shell symbols). This could possibly be a sidebar, but I don’t feel it’s necessary.


The most popular paths to Santiago de Compostela follow the trails of the earliest longdistance pilgrims who came from beyond the Pyrénées in France and traveled west across northern Spain. The three most popular of these are the Camino Primitivo, which includes stops at remote monasteries; the Camino del Norte, which follows the stunning coastline cliffs of northern Spain; and the Camino Francés, or French Way, which is the most traditional path. The average distance for the full walk on the French Way is about 780 km (485 mi), but the distance will depending on thewhich trail you choose. If you feel deterred by this distance, pick a starting point that is further along. Remember, this is your Camino; make what you want of it. Eventually, after many days—or weeks, depending on where you begin your journey— your path will meet up with the majority of the walkers about 97 km (60 mi) outside the city of Santiago de Compostela., whHere the buzz of excited travelers will accompany you as you cross

Comment [E31]: I was confused about this until I realized that each camino probably has its own series of trails. Perhaps you could make this clear earlier on? Formatted: Font Alignment: Auto, Pattern: Clear Comment [JJ32]: I like this idea best. I don’t like the idea of having a bunch of parentheses everywhere.

the final hamlets to reach your destination. Food and AccomodationsAccommodations

Formatted: Font: Italic Formatted: Font: Italic

Hearty Spanish meals are inexpensive, and the majority of young pilgrims opt to stay in albergues, which are inexpensive hostels, lodges, or community centers reserved for travelers on

Comment [SP33]: Fact checked. MerriamWebsters and hihostels.com

the Camino. Expect to pay between five to ten euro (about US$6.75–US$13.50) to sleep in simple bunk beds. Wherever you begin your journey, be sure to pick up a credencial—also called the pilgrim’s passport—so you can acquire stamps and gain access to inexpensive lodging. Nearly any bar, restaurant, or albergue will have its own hand-carved wooden stamp. These sStamps in you pilgrim’s passport are not only a souvenir; but they also provide proof that you walked the last 100 km (62 mi) on foot, which is the feat required to earn your certificate of completion. Getting Started

Comment [U34]: Fact checked—this estimate seems to be pretty average http://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/t hreads/albergues-price.8254/ Also, such a great deal! Comment [E35]: Two words per Merr. Web. Comment [SP36]: Fact checked. Comment [E37]: I think numerals look better—and Chicago 9.16 says to use abbreviations with numerals (at least in scientific literature—don’t know about this) Comment [SP38]: Fact checked. About.com. Comment [E39]: I feel like parts of “Getting Started” should be incorporated into “Picking a Path”—because picking a path is essentially the beginning of the journey.


Whether you are traveling for spirituality, for exercise, or for scenic retreat, there is no right or wrong way to complete the Camino. “There’s no grand beginning,” recalls Koteles. “We took a night bus to Lugo about 120 km [75 miles] outside of Santiago. We got off the bus at 7 AM and started walking—and we didn’t stop for five days. You think you’re going to get lost

and that you won’t be able to find the path, but we just asked somebody where the Camino was and they showed us to the first sign.” Koteles says that the symbol of the scallop shell, the sign of Saint James, officially marks the direction of the path, but in the wilderness, spray-painted yellow arrows and footprints of other pilgrims will show you the way. Everything about this modern pilgrimage—including the pathway you take, the length of your journey, and the extent to which you plan ahead—can be personalized. The traditional walk along the Camino can sometimes take more than a month, but Koteles and her friends only had five days to completed their Camino in only five days. If you’re already in Europe, it’s something you can be impulsive about because it’s not going to break the bank; you’ll traverse amazing countryside on fifteen to twenty dollars a day. Hearty Spanish meals are cheap, and the majority of young pilgrims opt to stay in albergues, which are inexpensive hostels, lodges, or community centers reserved for travelers on the Camino. Expect to pay between five and ten euro ($6.75–$13.50) to sleep in simple bunk beds. Don’t be afraid to set out without a distinct plan. Read online forums like www.caminodesantiago.me to find out what other travelers have done. If you’re in Spain or

Comment [AM40]: Since this paragraph is all about beginning and finding the Camino, should this intro sentence more appropriately allude to that? I think even switching out “complete” to "start" might help. Comment [E41]: These sentences sound very similar. What about “or for scenic retreat, ‘there’s no grand beginning’ to the Camino, recalls Koteles. ‘We took a night bus…’” Comment [E42]: I would suggest making kilometers the default throughout the piece. It’s odd for a U.S.-based magazine, but we’re talking about Europe, and you cite km often. Formatted: Font: 11 pt, Small caps Comment [SP43]: Fact checked. Called the Scallop Shell, but it’s up to you if you want to include that. I think it could be good to explain this origins of this symbol and how it came to be if your word count allows for it. Even just one more sentence would be enough. Comment [E44]: As long as you don’t use “the,” I think you’re fine (“the,” for some reason, implies that we already know something about scallop shell symbols). This could possibly be a sidebar, but I don’t feel it’s necessary. Comment [AM45]: To increase cohesiveness between this and the previous sentence, maybe add something about how current travelers don't need to follow every step former pilgrims made—your trip can be highly personalized. That way we relate to the former sentence and lead into the personalization. Comment [SP46]: Wow! That is crazy. Fact checked too: Americanpilgrims.com Comment [JJ47]: Does this make it sound like they did the full path in five days? Because that is definitely not the case. How can I make it clearer earlier that you can do your Camino in any length? Comment [E48]: This sentence feels somewhat awkward. What about, “If you’re already in Europe, make room for this affordable once-in-a-lifetime adventure—you...

southern France, “just take your passport or some sort of ID and go to nearly any city’s culture

Comment [SP49]: Fact checked. MerriamWebsters and hihostels.com

department or town hall and they’ll tell you where to go,” says Koteles. Wherever you begin

Comment [U50]: Fact checked—this estimate seems to be pretty average http://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/t ...

your journey, be sure to pick up a credencial—also called the pilgrim’s passport—so you can acquire stamps and gain access to inexpensive lodging. Nearly any bar, restaurant, or albergue

Comment [E51]: Two words per Merr. Web. Comment [AM52]: We might connect this paragraph to the previous ideas by saying something like "The Camino is also appealing... Comment [SP53]: Fact checked.


will have its own hand-carved wooden stamp. These stamps are not only a souvenir; they provide the proof that you walked the last one hundred kilometers on foot, which is the required feat in

Comment [SP54]: Fact checked. About.com.

order to earn your certificate of completion. Pick a Path There are nearly thirty recognized trails on the network of paths referred to as the Camino de Santiago. Whether you’re starting in Spain, France, Portugal, or even Germany, there is a path that will get you to Santiago de Compostela. One of the best ways to choose between them is to first determine how long you have to travel and from which city or country you will start. From there, you can visit sites such as www.csj.org.uk to learn more about each particular path.

Formatted: Default Paragraph Font

The most popular paths to Santiago de Compostela follow the trails of the earliest longdistance pilgrims who came from beyond the Pyrénées in France and traveled west across northern Spain. The three most popular of these are the Camino Primitivo, which includes stops

Formatted: Font: Not Italic, No underline, Font color: Auto

at remote monasteries; The Camino del Norte, which follows the stunning coastline cliffs of

Formatted: Font: Not Italic, No underline, Font color: Auto

northern Spain; and the Camino Francés, or French Way, which is the most traditional path. The

Formatted: Font: Not Italic, No underline, Font color: Auto

average distance for the full walk on the French Way is about 485 500 miles, depending on the

Comment [U55]: Again, should we mention both km and miles to be consistent?

trail you choose. If you feel deterred by this distance, just pick a starting point that is further

Comment [E56]: I was confused about this until I realized that each camino probably has its own series of trails. Perhaps you could make this clear earlier on?

along. Remember, this is your Camino; make what you want of it. Eventually, after many days—or weeks, depending on where you begin your journey— your path will meet up with the majority of the walkers about sixty miles outside the city of Santiago de Compostela, where the buzz of excited travelers will accompany you as you cross the final hamlets to reach your destination. Make Your Own Adventure

Comment [JJ57]: I like this idea best. I don’t like the idea of having a bunch of parentheses everywhere.


Pilgrims often carry only the bare necessities on their backs and spend their days strolling through picturesque medieval villages and culturally rich cities as passersby wish them a “buen camino.” Most travelers appear on the path during their summer vacations, but if you want to experience the best weather and smaller crowds, go in May. Most of the paths wind through the

Comment [E58]: I remember this phrase from the beginning, so its reuse may be overkill— what do Julie and Bro. Gardner think?

verdant, hill-covered countryside of Galicia in northern Spain. “They call it the España verde,

Comment [E59]: It sounds best as “better weather and smaller crowds” or “best weather and smallest crowds”—but the change is up to you.

the green Spain because there are forests and beautiful cliffs, and mountains. There’s so much

Comment [SP60]: Fact checked. Spain.info.

more to Spain than flamenco and the Mediterranean backdrop,” says Koteles. “This trip is more than an immersion into Spanish culture; it’s an immersion into Camino culture. You’re in an environment that allows you to learn from the stories of the people. You bond quickly because you’re achieving this crazy amazing task—together.” Though some people do it on bicycle or horseback, the Camino is defined by those who walk the path. Whether you choose to trek the hills in hiking boots or to take the paved paths, it is important to be physically primed for the journey. It is not a mountain climbing expedition, but there are many hills that can be rough on unprepared feet. Despite this, many men and women over the age of seventy walk the path each year. There is no expected walking pace on the Camino, and there are plenty of small towns and cafés along the way where travelers can refuel or take an afternoon siesta. A Fellowship Otherof Pilgrims When Koteles and her friends set out on their own spontaneous pilgrimage, they expected to enjoy the landscape, but they never imagined the friendships they’d create. “You get to town each night, and you have people waiting for you, cheering you on.” On their journey there was a group of five elderlyold men from Madrid who everyone referred to as los abuelos, or “the

Comment [AM61]: This part of the quote kind of veers off from what I think you were getting at in this section—the hills. Is there somewhere else we could put this idea? Perhaps in the fellowship section? Also, I think the heading title could be more appropriate. Something along the lines of preparing: knowing when to go and how to be physically ready. Do you agree? Comment [E62]: The first two sentences of this paragraph seem somewhat disconnected. Also, the “Whether you choose to do this or do that” has become a familiar pattern to the reader by now—consider changing this up for variety (I know that’s hard to do!). What about something like “The Camino is accessible by hiking boot, bicycle, and horseshoe” or something like that. “Even though it isn’t a mountain climbing expedition, it’s important to be physically primed—many of the hills can be rough on unprepared feet. Despite this…” Comment [SP63]: Fact checked. Americanpilgrims.com has the actual percentages if you want to include those. Comment [JJ64]: I think this website only includes American stats. Unless we can be sure we’re being accurate, I’d rather be a bit vague. People 70+ aren’t our demographic anyway.


grandpas.” Led by a charismatic 89-year-old man, they were one of the first groups to complete their walk each day. When Koteles finally arrived in Santiago, it was crowded with tourists. “We somehow found the abuelos in the center of town in a plaza,” she remembers. “A

Formatted: Indent: First line: 0.5"

band was playing, and it started raining, and we were just dancing with the abuelos in the rain, celebrating.” This is one of her most prized memories from the trip. “You form incredible bonds with people because there’s no pressure from the real world. You skip ten steps of the gettingto- know- you process because everyone’s there with a purpose.” Similarly, along the path there are friendly faces waiting to welcome you to the part of Spain that they call home. A few days into the journey, Koteles and her friends walked by a

Comment [J. Ogborn65]: This could make a great pull quote. Comment [E66]: Perhaps “friendly local faces”? This initially sounds like you’re referring to other pilgrims

woman in her garden who greeted them and invited them in for tea. “Her name was Maria Pilar, and she explained that years ago she had a corporate position at a job she didn’t like,” Koteles recalls. “; aAnd then she did the Camino, and it changed her life,.; sSso she left her job and bought a cottage on a secluded portion of the Camino.” Maria Pilar now leads a simple life making jewelry, and she opens her home to pilgrims whenever she can. The Take Away Memories Get away from the office or the demands of school, and let life slow to the pace of your walk. On the Camino, time is your only luxury—experiences your only priority. No matter which path or method of traveling draws you in, if If you’re looking for a chance to reflect, reevaluate, and remember what is truly important in your life, there is no greater setting than the paths through the rolling green hills of Spain. You may begin your journey with strangers, but you will arrive in Santiago with friends for a lifetime. Take paths that are out of the way. Meet new people. Try new foods. Learn new

Comment [E67]: Feels a little incomplete. Perhaps add a general line such as “Pilgrims have the opportunity to meet other locals like Maria”—something that will tie this section together. Comment [U68]: Since this had the potential to be the title of Shayla's article, you might think of a back up subheading. Comment [JJ69]: Wasn’t hers “The Take Home”? I think they’re different enough and far enough apart in the magazine, but I can change it if you want. What about “The Walk of a Lifetime,” or “The Pilgrim’s Reward”? Comment [KL70]: I love this phrase! Formatted: Indent: First line: 0"


words. The cathartic power of nature and the rejuvenating power of fellowship will be your greatest allies on this strenuous but beautifully rewarding journey.

Comment [U71]: I agree with Katie and Sarah's comments—this paragraph is great! You did a great job at bringing the Camino to life for the reader and finding some great stories. Thanks for you hard work. Comment [E72]: You’ve done so much work on this. These few last touches will make it even better. Awesome read—this is on my bucket list as well! Comment [SP73]: Great job Jessica! I can tell from the fact checking that you did a lot of work and research on this. I found it all very interesting to read, I had never heard of this before but it sounds fun! I’m excited to see the final product in the magazine! Comment [KL74]: This article made me add this trip to my bucket list. It’s great, and I know you did a lot of hard work to write it. I especially love your last paragraph. I think it captures the essence of your article and of the Camino SO well. Great job.

Jessica camino 13 jo  
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