Tears Down Every Last Barrier CREATING THE FACES OF CABLE NEWS
the fantasy issue lashes, sparkles, imagination
ROAD-TESTING A $90,000+ BEAUTY ROUTINE
Amber Heard has a lot to say.
in this issue NEWS & TRENDS
29 Look We Love: Blinged-Out Nails
41 The Cat’s Meow. This Gucci bag is purrfect.
30 Editors’ Favorites 36 Madonna on Her New
42 Mad World. Allure’s accessories editor goes to Wonderland.
Talking Beauty With Keala Settle. The Greatest Showman star on expectations and self-acceptance.
46 Elements of Style.
50 Wellness. The Get
Skin-Care Line • How Pollution Is Damaging Your Hair
38 The Story Behind the
World’s Cultiest Skin Balm
ALLURE DECEMBER 2017
The Florida Project’s Bria Vinaite proves lace can be edgy.
24 My Look.
Down. Sex toys go high end—and high tech.
60 Backstage Beauty. The coolest—and sparkliest—beauty trends from the spring runways. 76 Beauty Passport. Skin Peaks. An all-natural spa in the breathtaking Austrian Alps.
78 She Will Be Heard.
Amber Heard spends an afternoon talking about life, feminism, and how good she is at putting out fires. By Danielle Pergament
89 Shock Treatment. Colorful, fantastical makeup looks to brighten cold winter days. 98 The World’s Most
Pampered Woman. Molly Young gets $93,007 worth of beauty treatments in one week.
104 It Was All a Dream. The most romantic ruffles and whimsical pastels are made for dancing.
110 The Looks Behind the
We’re happily shimmying into ruffles. For fashion credits, see Shopping Guide.
News. The beauty habits of news anchors. By Judy Bachrach
54 Background Beauty.
American Hairstory. A kitschy salon slash hair museum in Joshua Tree, California.
58 Looking Back. How Politics Informed the World of Beauty. Because every action has a reaction.
6 Allure.com 12 Cover Look 18 Editor’s Letter 22 Beauty by Numbers 114 Shopping Guide 116 My Dream Kit. Marge Simpson’s bag of tricks.
Amber Heard’s look can be re-created with the following: Even Better Makeup Broad Spectrum SPF 15 in Neutral, Just Browsing Brush-On Styling Mousse in Blonde, Pop Matte Lip Colour + Primer in Peppermint Pop, and Pop Liquid Matte Lip Colour + Primer in Candied Apple Pop by Clinique. Faux-fur coat by Norma Kamali. Earrings from New York Vintage and Heard’s own. Details, see Shopping Guide. Photographed by Daniel Jackson. Fashion stylist: Beth Fenton. Hair: Didier Malige. Makeup: Romy Soleimani. Manicure: Marisa Carmichael. Set design: Gerard Santos. Production: Holly Gore for Rosco Production.
ALLURE DECEMBER 2017
on the cover
The best gifts are heartfelt. The secondbest are indulgent. These are both.
For your friend who follows every #beautyblogger on Instagram: Highlight much? Milk Makeup The A Team is a set of six makeup sticks (Holographic Stick in Mars shown here)—mix them together for meteoric sheen. $39.
For your cousin who never leaves home with fewer than four lipsticks: Give the gift of options. More specifically: the 12 clutch-size, best-selling options in M.A.C.’s Classics set. $69.50.
For your parents who just got a kitten: First of all, cute! Second, can I come over? Third, here’s a fire-hazardfree, liquid-free scent diffuser from Nest Fragrances. Love you guys. $60.
For your boss who’d rather go streaking than shake hands during flu season: Byredo’s rinseless Vetyver Hand Wash is Purell for Scandinavian-design lovers. The new Rose Hand Cream is just plain fancy. $30 and $71.
For your sibling who’s still talking about the Game of Thrones finale: Winter is here—time to upgrade their candle game with Diptyque’s dragon-emblazoned candle in Feu d’Agrumes (“Citrus Fire”). $70.
For your aunt who knows you’re a Sagittarius with a Virgo moon and Libra rising: She’ll be expecting a thoughtful gift—and as the stars would have it, Givenchy just launched its warm, astroinspired Eclats Nocturnes eye palette. $63.
Makeup artist and YouTube star Jaclyn Hill’s favorite beauty products—including Dior Diorshow Mascara and Philosophy Purity Made Simple Cleanser—will be delivered to your door when you subscribe to the Allure Beauty Box this month (visit beautybox.allure .com). And for a few dozen more really brilliant beauty gift ideas, go to allure.com/gift-guide.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: JOSEPHINE SCHIELE; SARAH KEHOE/ART PARTNER; JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (6)
WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE FAIRY TALE? EDITOR IN CHIEF MICHELLE LEE CREATIVE DIRECTOR MARIE SUTER
EXECUTIVE EDITOR DANIELLE PERGAMENT
B E AU T Y EXECUTIVE BEAUT Y DIRECTOR JENNY BAILLY
My Neighbor Totoro. I love weird animals, and I want to see life as a kid.”
DEPUT Y BEAUT Y DIRECTOR ELIZABETH SIEGEL SENIOR BEAUT Y EDITOR JESSICA CHIA BEAUT Y EDITOR BRENNAN KILBANE BEAUT Y ASSISTANT KATHLEEN SUICO
V I S UA LS VISUALS DIRECTOR RHIANNA RULE BOOKINGS DIRECTOR RO PENULIAR SENIOR VISUALS EDITOR JACQUELINE LADNER VISUALS EDITOR JAMES CLARIZIO ASSOCIATE VISUALS EDITORS HANNAH CHOI, DANA DAVENPORT ASSISTANT VISUALS EDITOR PAIGE VITI
R E S E A RC H RESEARCH DIRECTOR LORI SEGAL RESEARCH MANAGERS AMBER ANGELLE, CRISTINA RIVERA
MANAGING EDITOR AMANDA MEIGHER
DIGITAL EDITORIAL DIRECTOR PHILLIP PICARDI
FAS H I O N FASHION DIRECTOR NICOLE CHAPOTEAU SENIOR ACCESSORIES EDITOR MARIKO SUZUKI ASSOCIATE FASHION EDITOR MARION B. KELLY II
A RT I C L E S ASSOCIATE EDITOR LOREN SAVINI EDITORIAL ASSISTANT JESA MARIE CALAOR
A RT SENIOR ART DIRECTOR NICOLE ARGENTO ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR KATELYN BAKER
DIGITAL DESIGNER MARIA ASARE-BOADI
Cinderella. The ultimate rags-to-riches fantasy.”
P RO D U CT I O N DEPUT Y MANAGING EDITOR NICOLE STUART DEPUT Y PRODUCTION DIRECTOR MATT CARSON PRODUCTION MANAGER BRENT BURKET
C O PY COPY DIRECTOR CATHERINE GAMBRELL COPY MANAGERS AURA DAVIES, LESLIE LIPTON
A L LU R E .C O M DEPUT Y DIGITAL EDITOR SAM ESCOBAR DIGITAL DEPUT Y BEAUT Y DIRECTOR SOPHIA PANYCH DIGITAL BEAUT Y EDITOR SABLE YONG DIGITAL WELLNESS EDITOR HAYLEY MACMILLEN DIGITAL EDITORS JIHAN FORBES, SARAH KINONEN DIGITAL PRODUCTION MANAGER MONICA PERRY SENIOR VIDEO PRODUCER MAYA MARGOLINA BEAUT Y REPORTER DEVON ABELMAN SENIOR VIDEO PRODUCER CAROLINE PRAGER CONRAD
Rapunzel, aka my hair inspo.”
COMMERCE VIDEO PRODUCER ZACHARY CLAUSE ASSOCIATE DIGITAL EDITOR KALEIGH FASANELLA ASSOCIATE PREDITOR ANNA STYPKO DIGITAL EDITORIAL ASSISTANT SHAMMARA LAWRENCE PRODUCT MANAGER CHELSEA FARNAM ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR, AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT LINDSAY SANSONE ANALY TICS MANAGER TULIKA SINGH
SOCIAL SENIOR SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER RAWAN EEWSHAH SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER REBECCA SHINNERS COMMERCE COMMUNIT Y MANAGER LAUREN SWANSON ASSOCIATE SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER LARA ADEKOLA CONTRIBUTING EDITORIAL PROJECTS DIRECTOR PATRICIA ALFONSO TORTOLANI CONTRIBUTING EDITORS JILLIAN DEMPSEY, DAVID DENICOLO, MEIRAV DEVASH, JOLENE EDGAR, FRANCIS KURKDJIAN, BROOKE LE POER TRENCH, JAIME MARSANICO, CHRIS McMILLAN, JANET MOCK, LIANA SCHAFFNER
ENTERTAINMENT AND SPECIAL PROJECTS DIRECTOR ALISON WARD FRANK ENTERTAINMENT ASSOCIATE MAXWELL LOSGAR SPECIAL PROJECTS EDITOR MEGAN SALERNO ASSISTANT BUSINESS MANAGER TAYLOR SHEA
FO U N D I N G E D I TO R LINDA WELLS
ARTISTIC DIRECTOR ANNA WINTOUR
ALLURE DECEMBER 2017
WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE FAIRY TALE?
CHIEF BUSINESS OFFICER KIMBERLY KELLEHER CHIEF INDUSTRY OFFICER, BEAUTY/HEAD OF REVENUE LUCY KRIZ VP–REVENUE HEDDY SAMS PIERSON VP–FINANCE & BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT CHRISTINE DIPRESSO MORRA
A DV E RT I S I N G SALES DIRECTOR FOR COLLECTION JULIE GRAYBILL PHILLIPS EXECUTIVE ACCOUNT DIRECTORS DORENE BAIR, DEBORAH B. BARON, ABIGAIL BREENE, CHAD CARR, KIM CONWAY HALEY, KELSEY KIRSCH, LAUREN DECKER LERMAN, SARAH YORK RICHARDS SENIOR ACCOUNT DIRECTORS CARLY GRESH, LINDA KENNEDY, BRIDGET QUIRK ACCOUNT DIRECTOR HILARY SCHUVILLE ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES ALISON GLUCK, ALEXANDRIA HAUGHEY, CASEY TROTTA EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT RACHEL HERRING SALES ASSOCIATES TYLER BARBIAUX, SARAH BARRECA, MANUELA BONGIORNO, MARIATINA CORRADO, LAUREN LAMENSDORF, STEPHANIE LEINBACH, SUE WARDA
BRANCH OFFICES EXECUTIVE ACCOUNT DIRECTOR, SAN FRANCISCO JOSIAH BUNTING EXECUTIVE ACCOUNT DIRECTORS, MIDWEST TIM CARROLL, CHRISTINA KROLOPP, ANGIE PACKARD PRENDERGAST EXECUTIVE ACCOUNT DIRECTORS, LOS ANGELES EZRA SEAN ALVAREZ, DAWN SHAPIRO SENIOR ACCOUNT DIRECTOR, LOS ANGELES KAYTE BENEDICT EXECUTIVE ACCOUNT DIRECTOR, BOSTON & CARIBBEAN KRISTIN HAVENS ACCOUNT DIRECTORS, ITALY ELENA DE GIULI, ENRICA MANELLI SOUTHEAST PETER ZUCKERMAN, Z MEDIA, 305-532-5566 TEXAS CAROL CONTESTABILE, LEWIS STAFFORD COMPANY, 972-960-2889 PARIS SELIM MATARACI, 331 4478 0062
MARKETING VPS, MARKETING JENNY RYAN BOWMAN, JILL STEINBACH FRIEDSON EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, BRAND MARKETING CAMILLE SIGNORELLI SENIOR DIRECTORS, BRAND MARKETING STEFENI BELLOCK, TONI NICOLINO, KRISTEN REID, LINDSAY SPEROS, ALEXIS WALL DIRECTOR, BRAND MARKETING KATIE MACK ASSOCIATE DIRECTORS, BRAND MARKETING KERRI-ANN OGRUDEK, BETHANY VERDONE MANAGERS, BRAND MARKETING ABBY ADESANYA, SAMANTHA FOX, HALEY HOOVER ASSOCIATE, BRAND MARKETING KATE SIENKO MARKETING ASSOCIATE BRIANNA LOPES DIRECTOR, MARKETPLACE STRATEGY JENNIFER FRIEDMAN PEREZ ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR, MARKETPLACE STRATEGY CARA WOLF ERWIN ASSOCIATE, MARKETPLACE STRATEGY MARGARET HALL EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, MARKETPLACE STRATEGY (BEAUTY BOX) LEAH ASHLEY MANAGER, MARKETPLACE STRATEGY (BEAUTY BOX) NICOLE SAFIR EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, EXPERIENCES ERIN BRENNAN SENIOR DIRECTOR, EXPERIENCES JENNIFER MA DIRECTOR, EXPERIENCES CHRIS MANCIVALANO
B U S I N E SS EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, FINANCE JANICE TRICHON SENIOR DIRECTOR, FINANCE TOM MORRIS FINANCE DIRECTOR JESSICA GIVNER LEVINE ASSOCIATE FINANCE DIRECTOR NILSA SERRATA SENIOR BUSINESS DIRECTORS SHERRI GINSBERG, KAREN MANVILLE SENIOR DIRECTOR, BUSINESS JENNIFER JACKSON ASSOCIATE BUSINESS MANAGER CHARLOTTE KWON
Alice in Wonderland because of the fantasy element and being in a magical place.”
BUSINESS ASSOCIATE CAROLINE GRANGER
D I G I TA L P L A N N I N G & ST R AT EGY EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, BRAND MARKETING ED SUMNER SENIOR MANAGER, DIGITAL SALES OPERATIONS ASHLEY TABROFF DIGITAL ACCOUNT MANAGERS KIM FEENEY, ALLISON FORESI, GINNY LASKOWSKI DIGITAL SALES PLANNERS JENNIFER BRENNAN, KENZIE RAINONE DIGITAL CAMPAIGN MANAGERS KATE LINDE, CHRISTINA NO, CHRISTINA TUOHY
A RT DESIGN DIRECTOR MARIS BODELL
ASSOCIATE DIRECTORS, EXPERIENCES SAMANTHA DANA, NATALIE GREENFIELD, MALLORY MILLER
MANAGER, EXPERIENCES JULIA MERENDA BRANDED CONTENT VIDEO PRODUCER JOANNE PARK MARKETING ASSOCIATE, EXPERIENCES MORIAH RAPAPORT
P U B L I S H E D BY C O N D É N AST
C O N D É N AST E N T E RTA I N M E N T
CHAIRMAN EMERITUS S.I. NEWHOUSE, JR. PRESIDENT & CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER ROBERT A. SAUERBERG, JR. CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER DAVID E. GEITHNER CHIEF REVENUE & MARKETING OFFICER PAMELA DRUCKER MANN EVP/CHIEF DIGITAL OFFICER FRED SANTARPIA
PRESIDENT DAWN OSTROFF EVP/GENERAL MANAGER–DIGITAL VIDEO JOY MARCUS EVP/CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER SAHAR ELHABASHI EVP–MOTION PICTURES JEREMY STECKLER EVP–ALTERNATIVE TV JOE LABRACIO
CHIEF HUMAN RESOURCES OFFICER JOANN MURRAY CHIEF COMMUNICATIONS OFFICER CAMERON R. BLANCHARD CHIEF TECHNOLOGY OFFICER EDWARD CUDAHY EVP–CONSUMER MARKETING MONICA RAY CHIEF EXPERIENCE OFFICER JOSH STINCHCOMB CHIEF REVENUE OFFICER, INDUSTRY SALES, CONDÉ NAST LISA VALENTINO SVP–FINANCIAL PLANNING & ANALYSIS SUZANNE REINHARDT SVP–LICENSING CATHY HOFFMAN GLOSSER SVP–RESEARCH & ANALYTICS STEPHANIE FRIED SVP–DIGITAL OPERATIONS LARRY BAACH SVP–HUMAN RESOURCES REBECCA SACHS GENERAL MANAGER–DIGITAL MATTHEW STARKER HEAD CREATIVE DIRECTOR RAÚL MARTINEZ
EVP–CNÉ STUDIOS AL EDGINGTON SVP–MARKETING & PARTNER MANAGEMEN T TEAL NEWLAND
C O N D É N AST I N T E R N AT I O N A L CHAIRMAN & CHIEF EXECUTIVE JONATHAN NEWHOUSE PRESIDENT WOLFGANG BLAU
Condé Nast is a global media company producing premium content for more than 263 million consumers in 30 markets. CONDENAST.COM CONDENASTINTERNATIONAL .COM
ver seen the erotic-camp drama Showgirls? No? Don’t. It’s widely regarded as one of the worst movies of all time. Those two hours would be better spent cleaning your living room, lighting a candle, and comprehensively poring over this issue starring the l ove l y A m b e r H e a rd i n f u l l Showgirls-inspired regalia. The NC-17 flick was the chief reference for Allure’s cover shoot. Staged way up in the Los Angeles hills, the set was more of a party than not, and in the middle of it was Heard, decked out in Swarovski crystals from eyelid to temple. “My face is bedazzled right now. I’m not sure how much eye I can give you,” she shot back when photographer Daniel Jackson directed her to look toward the California sun. The crew laughed and the camera clicked. And maybe, just maybe, that’s what makes Heard the perfect showgirl: so utterly entertaining and so utterly herself. Cultish, yes, but also an instant classic. —BRENNAN KILBANE
AMBER HEARD Behind the scenes at Allure’s cover shoot.
Above: An array of craft-store crystals. Top right: Norma Kamali coat. Earrings from New York Vintage and Heard’s own. Right: Heard with makeup artist Romy Soleimani. Vintage Dolce & Gabbana bra top. Thom Browne pants. Heard’s own earrings. Far right: Pop Matte Lip Colour + Primer in Peppermint Pop and High Impact Mascara by Clinique. Details, see Shopping Guide.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: DANIEL JACKSON; JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (2); GRACE PICKERING (2)
Eye (and Lip) Impact
“The shoot was full-on fantasy,” said makeup artist Romy Soleimani. “Amber was so cool to let me put things all over her face.” Things like hot-rod flames, Swarovski crystals, and sequined ribbons. “I used bejeweled trim from a craft store and clear crystals as winged liner,” says Soleimani, who also bonded with Heard over a shared love of red lips. They were incorporated into each look: “I used a matte blue-red lipstick all over and an orangered liquid in the middle to brighten it up.” The slick, high pony is the work of hairstylist Didier Malige— the perfect complement to high-octane makeup. Heard’s cover look can be re-created with the following: Even Better Makeup Broad Spectrum SPF 15 in Neutral, Just Browsing Brush-On Styling Mousse in Blonde, Pop Matte Lip Colour + Primer in Peppermint Pop, and Pop Liquid Matte Lip Colour + Primer in Candied Apple Pop by Clinique. Watch Amber Heard geek out over superheroes at allure.com/amber.
ALLURE DECEMBER 2017
Norma Kamali jacket. Alexis Bittar earrings. Details, see Shopping Guide.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: JOSEPHINE SCHIELE; GRACE PICKERING; VISUAL7/GETTY IMAGES; COURTESY OF SHU UEMURA
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
simple n the surface, the word “fantasy” instantly conjures images of insane, over-thetop luxury in my mind: an a l l - ex p e n s e s - p a i d , n o distractions escape to the Maldives; every delicious, whimsical Gucci shoe lined up in my size; the massive 20thanniversary Anastasia Beverly Hills brow kit containing what seems like every brow product the company ever made. But as time has gone on, I’ve begun to recognize that true fantasy and luxury also lie in the opposite direction— toward minimalism. As they say, a tidy space equals a tidy mind. And in these noisy days of complicated issues, I’m craving some mental housekeeping. I had a friend who was so committed to her family’s minimalism that their closets looked like they had just moved in and only one box had arrived. I marveled at how she kept her kids’ tiny Legos completely corralled with their sets (if there was ever a damaged or missing piece, she’d call and order just that single piece). Meanwhile, our Star Wars X-wing Starfighter immediately mingled Chex Mix style with Cinderella’s castle the second the boxes were ripped open. I’ll be honest: I don’t think we’ll ever be capable of true minimalism in my household. We’re sentimental pack rats at heart. That glossy program from the Clio Awards with my picture in it? We’ve got to keep that, right? The simplicity of my work life has a limit. Inbox zero? Not going to happen. And I can fantasize about the Mark Zuckerberg–esque austerity of uniform dressing. But I work in fashion and beauty, so I suspect that the jeans-and-grayT-shirt look might wear thin. Quickly. I’d give it three days.
ALLURE DECEMBER 2017
That being said, I know I can get closer to my minimalist ideal. I recently listened to a podcast interview with legendary tidying expert Marie Kondo, and her method intrigued me. One of her core philosophies is that you shouldn’t focus on what to purge from your life but rather what you want to keep to create the happiest space possible. It sounds so simple, but that quick mental shift flips a lot of the rules of organization. The stuff we surround ourselves with externally affects how we feel internally. I’ll start my Kondo method in a few weeks, and it’ll be interesting to see what—and how many—precious belongings make the cut. And when my shoe shelves are cleared, maybe I’ll treat myself to just one pair of those Guccis. At least it’s something to fantasize about.
Michelle Lee, Editor in Chief @heymichellelee
BEAUT Y BY NUMBERS
Number of times the word “unicorn” appears in the Bible.
Year an X-ray of Raphael’s oil painting Portrait of a Lady With a Unicorn, which dates back to 1506, revealed that the animal cradled by the subject was originally a dog.
Grams of sugar in a Starbucks Grande Unicorn Frappuccino, a fruity-sour swirl of pink, purple, and blue.
Cost of Unicorn Snot, a long-lasting glitter gel that is meant for body, face, and hair.
Age of YouTuber Charli Rose, who has over 83,000 views (and counting) on a makeup tutorial where she uses Tarte’s Make Believe in Yourself Collection to transform herself into a unicorn.
Percentage increase in the number of unicorn-themed beauty products available between July 2016 and July 2017.
UNICORNS In the 2,500 years since the first recorded mention of unicorns, our fascination has only grown. Whether it’s myth or makeup, there is a colorful, twisted, and often baffling obsession with the imaginary beast. —JESA MARIE CALAOR Above: Raphael, Portrait of a Lady With a Unicorn, 1506.
ALLURE DECEMBER 2017
SCALA/MINISTERO PER I BENI E LE ATTIVITÀ CULTURALI/ART RESOURCE, N.Y.
Year a Greek traveler to India named Ctesias wrote of “wild asses as large as horses” with red-tipped horns that could cure diseases.
Cotton dress by ASOS. Earrings by Hart. Sunglasses by Gucci. Makeup colors: Magnif’Eyes palette in Keep Calm & Wear Gold, and Oh My Gloss in Pop Poppy by Rimmel London. Details, see Shopping Guide.
The Greatest Showman’s very own bearded lady has a lot to say about insecurity management.
Above: Settle as Lettie Lutz with her Greatest Showman costar Zac Efron. These pages: Fashion stylist, Julia Ehrlich. Hair: Sami Knight. Makeup: Tsipporah Liebman.
ALLURE DECEMBER 2017
My character’s name is Lettie Lutz—she’s the bearded lady. In my role prep, I did a ton of research into polycystic ovary syndrome (PCOS), an endocrine disease in females that can include overproduction of testosterone. It can lead to weight gain, acne, and in some extreme cases, prominent facial and chest hair. Last year, I discovered some articles about an incredible young woman named Harnaam Kaur, who lives with PCOS. Through her courage to speak of her own struggle, I learned so much about my own insecurities. I mean, logistically speaking, they’re nothing like that. But relatively speaking, they’re exactly like that.
FROM LEFT: JOSEPHINE SCHIELE; COURTESY OF ZAC EFRON
photographed by dean podmore
MY LOOK “I was dancing in a 25-pound dress— so much fun, so much laughter, so many injuries from dancing,” says Settle.
ALLURE DECEMBER 2017
Eyeko mascara. Depending on the gig, I might also wear a lip—lately I’ve been using Nars Powermatte Lip Pigment in American Woman, and on top, I’ll wear ChapStick Total Hydration in Rose Petal. As I gracefully and happily enter my 40s, I’ve been having fun looking back on all the adventures I’ve had makeup- and style-wise and counting up the mistakes. Just crazy choices that I so committed to. But at the same time, those choices were all a part of me. You’re always building up the character of yourself—those weird bangs I had that I used to love are a small smidgen of who I am as a person. I love looking back and being like, That was a terrible idea. That was a hot mess. It all makes us who we are, you know? —AS TOLD TO BRENNAN KILBANE
Above: Actress Elsa Lanchester gets into character for 3 Ring Circus. Right: Kathy Bates in American Horror Story: Freak Show.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: NIKO TAVERNISE; COURTESY OF EVERETT COLLECTION (3)
hen I was younger, my mother wanted me to look like Claudia Schiffer. I was like, “We’re not even German, but all right.” As you get older, whatever your struggles may be—how you sound, how you look, how you dress—you grow into yourself a little bit more. You end up realizing the world wants you and not a carbon copy of six other people. I woke up one day and thought, Enough is enough with bullying myself. The war is within you, and that’s also where it’s won. You just have to tackle your insecurities and then let them go. Over the past 10 years or so, my approach to personal beauty has changed a lot. Most of it has been coming to terms with who I am, which is a half-Caucasian, half-Polynesian, plus-size-andproud woman. I have skin that’s different from that of 80 percent of the people in the mainland United States, so I’ve done a lot of research into the kind of stuff that works for my skin. And I’ve been in productions where I’m changing my makeup multiple times a day for eight days a week. Thayers Witch Hazel is a lifesaver. It’s the cheapest thing ever—I have it on Amazon subscription. At night, I’ll use that to take off makeup, and then I’ll go in with Kiehl’s clay cleanser. Two or three times a week, I’ll use the TLC cream from Eve Lom. It’s so rich, you just pat it on. I use this Korean product called J.One Jelly Pack. It’s a mask, but I use it as a primer—it has the consistency of jelly. Over that, I’ll put BareMinerals Complexion Rescue tinted moisturizer mixed with Marc Jacobs Dew Drops Highlighter. On days I’m not working, I don’t wear a ton of other makeup, but if I have to look like I care, I’ll use this By Terry Ombre Blackstar eye shadow stick in Frozen Quartz and
“The war is within you, and that’s also where it’s won.”
A poster for the 1925 film Remember When?, one of the earliest Hollywood productions to feature the character of a bearded lady; actress Natalie Kingston played the starring role.
l o o k
l o v e
bling fingers In antiquity, obesity suggested a life well lounged; more recently, the Isabel Marant wedge sneaker did the same with its mixed message of comfort (sneaker!) and also not (wedge!) and also $$$$ (Isabel Marant). Today, we have the next frontier of luxury signifier: the bespoke 3D manicure. Who can afford to lift a finger when that finger is laden with rhinestones and gold leaf? You can, because you can afford anything, but you’d rather not and thank you. You’re far too busy exfoliating with diamond dust and marrying for love. Though you needn’t mention any of that—your nails say it all. —BRENNAN KILBANE photographed by david brandon geeting
Manicurist Elina Ogawa trawls bead-and-gem stores such as Toho Shoji in New York City for stones like the Swarovski crystals she used here. Instead of using glue, she sealed each nail with standard topcoat.
T H E B E AU T Y N E W S YO U N E E D TO K N OW N OW
DECEMBER 2017 ALLURE
BE AUT Y REPORTER 1. Eaudemoiselle de Givenchy Extravagant. Tuberose, vanilla, and patchouli in the inkiest, heaviest flacon. $150. 2. Gucci Décor Fumus candle. Keep the creepy-cool jar long after the fragrant wax is gone. $340.
3. Louis Vuitton fragrance travel case. Your LV perfume doesn’t need its own leather valise. But it does enjoy one. $430.
The least practical, most fantastic gifts you can get. We mean give.
photographed by will anderson
4. Estée Lauder Re-Nutriv Ultimate Diamond Thermal Ritual. This oil-rich cream comes with its very own massage stone. $375.
5. Marc Jacobs Daisy Deluxe Anniversary Edition. The violet-andjasmine modern classic, gilded and topped with 1,000-plus crystals. $400.
6. Epona Valley Le Hand barrette. When you want your hair to look just a little surreal. $158. 7. Cinnamon Projects Circa Mineral Incense Burner. Copper and hand-cut lapis lazuli make an artful ashtray. $240. 8. David Mallett Gold Dust. One pump leaves roots lifted and hair glimmer-y. $90. 9. Dior Diorific Vernis in Emerald and Ruby. Lustrous peacock green and rose make nails look satin-dipped. $28 each. 10. Astier de Villatte Oulan Bator Incense. Luxury incense isn’t an oxymoron when it smells like amber and leather and moodiness. $42.
ALLURE DECEMBER 2017
PROP STYLIST: JOJO LI
BE AUT Y REPORTER 1. Diptyque Advent Calendar. Way better than chocolate. $390. 2. Anastasia Beverly Hills Prism Eye Shadow Palette. Sparkling navy and green add a rush of excitement; matte neutrals keep it real. $42.
4. Jurlique Sweet Violet & Grapefruit Mist. Skin-brightening, exhale-inducing. $35.
3. Clé de Peau Beauté Nuit de Chine Eye Color Pencils. A coloring box of smoky jewel tones and silvery metallics. $95 for a set of five.
5. Tatcha Indigo Indulgence Spa Set. Body butter, hand cream (shown), and sugar scrub infused with skinsoothing indigo. $56.
6. Chanel La Crème Main. Just think of all the cousins’ fiancées’ hands you’ll have to shake. It’s an investment. $50.
7. Chantecaille Les Paillettes. Half finely spun gold, half icy pink, 100 percent dreamy on cheekbones. $79.
8. Killspencer sleep mask. Bondage in the front, cuddly faux fur in the back. $120.
9. Hourglass Confession Lipstick Archive. Thirty creamy lipsticks, from subtle to siren-y. $650.
10 8 11 12
10. Christian Louboutin Lip Colour and Lip Lacquer. Lipsticks that double as talismans. $90 and $85. 11. Dolce & Gabbana Volumized Lashes Mascara in Dahlia. Mascara is giftworthy when it’s the exact color of pinot noir. $31.50. 12. Fleur du Mal x By Kilian pajama set. The lace is scented with By Kilian’s Love, Don’t Be Shy perfume. $425.
DECEMBER 2017 ALLURE
BEAUT Y REPORTER
MDNA Skin The Finishing Cream contains the mineral-rich Italian thermal water used throughout the line.
TRUTH OR SKIN CARE “I travel a lot,” says Madonna in what may be the greatest understatement of all time. This month, the 59-yearold, who has performed in pretty much every country on planet Earth, is bringing her Japan-based skin-care line to the U.S. Which is how I got here: on the phone. With Madonna. That Madonna. “I’ve tortured my skin with performing—the heat, the lights, and sweating,” she tells me. “Developing this line came out of that. I’m trying to find the best way to take care of my skin so I don’t look like a truck ran me over.” (An aside: The weirdest part about talking to Madonna is that it’s not that weird at all. She’s normal and familiar, and, I mean, none of us wants to look like a truck ran us over, right?) So back to the line. It’s called MDNA Skin—which is how you’d pronounce her name if you’d
had too much to drink. Early on, she took samples of the skin-care products to one of her neighbors to check out. But just when I start to think, Madonna! She’s just like us! She mentions that the neighborhood is in the Hamptons and the neighbor she’s talking about is Paul Jarrod Frank, one of Manhattan’s top dermatologists. He helped her fine-tune the formulas. By the way, she also employs a facialist so she can have regular oxygen facials while she’s on the road. Skin care is one thing she’s never skimped on: Madonna has been wearing sunscreen devotedly since her 20s and covers up “to the point of embarrassing my children on the beach.” In the background, her son agrees. “Too bad for them,” she says, wryly. “Skin first, popularity with your children second. Or maybe tenth.” —JESSICA CHIA
Pollution isn’t only harming the air, our planet, and your skin. A new International Journal of Cosmetic Science study says soot, smoke, and dust can fray your hair and dull its shine. The sebum on your hair acts like glue, allowing tiny particles to stick to each strand. That debris clouds your hair’s natural luster and can create friction that roughs up its surface. And expect more wreckage if your hair is oily or you skip washes—more sebum means bigger particles can latch on. Short of cleaner air, the best solution is to wash your hair at least weekly using a shampoo with ingredients like tetrasodium EDTA, disodium EDTA, or sodium citrate, says cosmetic chemist Joseph Cincotta. “These metal-attracting ingredients remove particulate matter from the hair surface.” —JESA MARIE CALAOR 36
ALLURE DECEMBER 2017
FROM LEFT: JOSEPHINE SCHIELE; COURTESY OF MDNA SKIN; JOSEPHINE SCHIELE
BEAUT Y REPORTER ORAL HISTORY
THE MIRACLE WORKER
Egyptian Magic is a staple in every fancy-pants makeup artist’s kit. Founder LordPharaoh ImHotepAmonRa (oh, yes) explains the encounter that inspired the iconic salve.
rowing up in a housing project in a rough part of Washington, D.C., I had to expect miracles every day. Otherwise, I couldn’t handle life. When I got older, I worked as a traveling salesman, selling water-filtration systems to churches. After I gave a presentation at a church on the South Side of Chicago, a man named Dr. Imas came up to me and said, “Brother, the spirit has moved me to reveal something to you.” It was the recipe for a cream made with olive oil, beeswax, honey, bee pollen, propolis, and royal jelly. He said the formula dated back to ancient Egypt and had been passed down to him in the same way he was passing it down to me. Then he said, “From this day on, to me you will be
ALLURE MONTH 2017
known as LordPharaoh ImHotepAmonRa.” This was my miracle. I never again used my old name—Westley Howard—and for the next nine years, I slept on the floor of a 554-square-foot apartment in D.C., no paycheck, trying to sell what I had named Egyptian Magic. I used to walk to a local health food store and trade it for food so I could eat. In 2003, a website suggested that Madonna was a fan. Five hundred thousand people visited our site in 24 hours. Our site actually crashed. This had nothing to do with me; it was all about the product. Recently, on a British Airways flight from London to D.C., I opened the in-flight magazine and there was Egyptian Magic. You know that saying “You’ve come a long way, baby?” That’s a long way from the apartment floor. —AS TOLD TO BRENNAN KILBANE
PROP STYLIST: DAVID DE QUEVEDO
photographed by david brandon geeting
o b j e c t
the catâ€™s meow
Somewhere along the line, someone decided that being a crazy cat lady was a bad thing. Obviously, that someone never saw a Gucci kitten with blue eyes, gold whiskers, and a frame of pink crystals.
PROP STYLIST: DAVID DE QUEVEDO. PROPS: COURTESY OF THE END OF HISTORY AND GLOBAL TABLE NY.
photographed by david brandon geeting
c u l t
Gucci plexiglass bag, $3,700, at select Gucci stores.
NOTES: EDITOR’S OBSESSIONS 2
MAD WORLD Allure accessories editor Mariko Suzuki is getting curiouser and curiouser.
6 1. RETROUVAÍ EARRINGS. “The ideal earrings for a queen of hearts.” $6,395 (ylang23.com). 2. GUCCI LEATHER SHOES. “I’d pair these with a maxidress so the bows just peek out at the bottom.” $1,150 (gucci.com). 3. ERDEM ORGANZA DRESS. “I’m obsessed with the dreamy floral print. It’s perfect for a tea party.” $4,640 (net-a-porter.com). 4. JUDITH LEIBER COUTURE CRYSTAL BAG. “This whimsical bunny is coming with me to every holiday party.” $5,495, at Neiman Marcus stores. 5. GUCCI RESORT 2018. “When Alice grows up, this is the dress she’ll wear.” 6. GEMFIELDS X MUSE GOLD NECKLACE AND CHARMS. “I love that you can mix and match your favorite charms.” Necklace, $5,060, and charms, $765 to $10,450, at Marissa Collections, Naples, Florida (239-263-4333).
7. FENDI SILK JACKET AND SKIRT. “Just needs a pair of white sneakers.” Jacket, $3,150, and skirt, $1,500 (fendi.com).
ALLURE DECEMBER 2017
8. LANCÔME ROSE MASK AND LOTION. “These really do smell like fresh red roses.” Mask, $175, and lotion, $68 (lancome-usa.com).
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: LIAM GOODMAN (PROP STYLIST: JILLIAN GUARCO); COURTESY OF RAND MCNALLY; LIAM GOODMAN (PROP STYLIST: JILLIAN GUARCO) (4); YANNIS VLAMOS/INDIGITAL.TV; JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (2); LIAM GOODMAN (PROP STYLIST: JILLIAN GUARCO) (2); BEK ANDERSON
Oh, you thought lace was for tabletops and grandmothers? Twenty-four-year-old Bria Vinaite, who stars in The Florida Project, proves that nothing pairs better with lace than tattoos and a taste for Hennessey.
Lace dress and bodysuit by OffWhite c/o Virgil Abloh. Details, see Shopping Guide. These pages: Fashion stylist, Jamie Mizrahi. Hair: Sirsa Ponciano. Makeup: Courtney Perkins. Manicure: Yukie Miyakawa.
photographed by ward + kweskin
NOTES: ELEMENTS OF STYLE
“I love because it can be really feminine, sexy, or dark. There are so many ways to wear it, no matter what your style is.”
COURTESY OF EVERETT COLLECTION
SKIN CARE: “Clinique
Moisture Surge Hydrating Supercharged Concentrate.” BOOK: “Right now it’s How to Murder Your Life by Cat Marnell.” FOOTWEAR: “Nike Air Max.” ICON: “Rihanna. She’s going to be my best friend one day. You can quote me on that.” FRAGRANCE: “Chance by Chanel.” TATTOO PARLOR: “Ocho Placas in Miami.” ALBUM: “Lana Del Rey’s Born to Die.” COCKTAIL: “Hennessey and cranberry.” MAKEUP: “Benefit Mascara in Beyond Blue.” FILM: “I grew up watching Thirteen on repeat.” VACATION: “Anywhere in the South of France. It’s fucking beautiful.” CANDY: “Hi-Chews. If I were a candy, I would be a Hi-Chew.” —MAXWELL LOSGAR
Above: Lace dress by Ellery. Lace bodysuit by Alix. MoistureSmooth Color Stick in Wine Berry by Neutrogena. Details, see Shopping Guide. Right: Vinaite in The Florida Project. For more on Bria Vinaite—including her skin-care must-haves and unusual workout obsession—go to allure.com/bria.
DECEMBER 2017 ALLURE
the get down
The sex toys of 2017 are technologically advanced, beautifully designed, and every bit as chic (and expensive!) as the nicest shoes in your closet. Without further ado, we have a few blindfolds weâ€™d like you to meet.... By Meirav Devash photographed by joanna mcclure
Clockwise from top: Betony Vernon Ostrich Feather Tickler, $3,082.41 (betonyvernon.com); Iroha+ Kushi Vibrator, $140 (tenga-global.com); Chakrubs The Original Heart crystal, $150 (chakrubs.com); Unbound Snake Nipple Clamps, $117 (unboundbox.com); Euforia 24-Function Clitoral Vibrator, $249 (pureromance.com); Unbound Simple Handcuff Bangles, $45 (unboundbox.com); Euforia Luxury Ben Wa Balls, $99 (pureromance.com); Crystal Delights White Crystal Minx Magnetic Bunny Tail Plug, $109.95 (crystaldelights.com); and Euforia G-Spot Wand, $219 (pureromance.com).
ALLURE DECEMBER 2017
Vibrators, dildos, and cuffs: Ohhh, my. The latest sex toys have you covered, from risqué couples’ action to your coveted personal time. HIGH TECH
In the Dark Ages, vibrators had three settings: really fast, not so fast, and off. Today’s smarter sex toys allow you to create your own Nirvana with spaceage features like customizable sensations that sync to a playlist (try the Remoji Lifeguard Ring Vibe from Babeland), AI that learns your favorite vibration patterns, and the latest in “teledildonics.” That’s sexy talk for tech that wirelessly syncs toys so you or your partner can control the action from a continent away via phone or Apple Watch. What a time to be alive. LOW TECH
No matter how much sex toys evolve over time, the classics, like sex itself, never go out of style. Oldschool favorites include the Hitachi Magic Wand— the retro plug-in and the newer rechargeable version—and of course the old-fashioned straightup dildo with no plugs, batteries, bells, or whistles.
If you want to add a little magic, try a Chakrub: a crystal dildo so pretty you could display it on your coffee table and make it the world’s most elegant conversation starter. RESTRAINTS
If you ever wonder what it would be like to get tied up, you’re not alone. We do, too. All the time. (Too far?) First-timers are better off using fail-safe silicone cuffs, like Lovehoney’s Quickie cuffs, or nonsticky bondage tape. Unless you’re a sailor who knows her way around knots, leave Japanese rope bondage to the experts. But if it’s not your first rodeo, might we suggest the sterling-silver woven bondage ropes by Betony Vernon? Stunning. BLINDFOLDS
Blindfolds are a bedroom cliché, but let’s be clear— they’re shorthand for spicing up sex lives because they actually do just that. One flimsy strip of fabric is all it takes to instantly attune you to every one of your nerve endings. When you’re stripped of sight, a brush of the fingertips is suddenly a zillion times more exciting. Your options range from repurposing a sleep mask to the more high-end silk-and-tulle number from Coco de Mer or the carnival-esque metal masks by Luna Veneziana. JEWELRY
Clockwise from top: Womanizer 2Go Vibrator, $299 (buywomamizer.com); Rhythm by Kama Sutra Chari Vibrator, $99.99 (rhythm-toys.com); Je Joue Mimi Vibrator, $89 (jejoue.com); and Iroha+ Tori Vibrator, $140 (tenga-global.com).
ALLURE DECEMBER 2017
Now that sex toys are starting to look less and less like phalluses, we as a people have evolved to sexcessories: elegant, pretty, simple jewelry that looks great on— and helps you get off. There are Unbound’s gold-plated bangles that double as handcuffs and a sleek rose-gold pendant from Crave that’s secretly a vibrator. We’ve also discovered gold-plated chokers that make for suggestive collars (from Bordelle) and delicate body chains to wear in the bedroom (our favorite is a dainty silver chain from Kiki de Montparnasse, which can double as a necklace ).
Sex toys make up a $15 billion industry, one that’s predicted to hit $50 billion by 2020.
The clap is clapping back. The unlikely culprit? Antibiotics.
work it out
Clockwise from top: Lovehoney Main Squeeze Heavy Double Kegel Balls, $21.99 (lovehoney.com); Fifty Shades of Grey Inner Goddess Silver Pleasure Balls, $39.99 (bedtimetoys.ca); and Lelo Luna Beads Noir, $44.90 (lelo.com).
Kegels aren’t just for better sex (but that’s nice, too!). They strengthen your pelvic floor, which wards off a whole host of things you don’t want to happen (peeing when you sneeze, for starters). Kegel balls and beads are designed to make the exercise more effective, but this workout isn’t the only thing you can do to strengthen the pelvic floor. We looked into the newest treatments around the world. USA May we introduce you to Pfilates? That’s Pilates plus pelvic floor exercises. The series of familiar moves chosen by a urogynecologist passively engages the pelvic floor. You can buy a DVD on its website. FRANCE French women don’t get fat—and they don’t get leaky bladders after childbirth, either. That’s because the government funds la rééducation périnéale, 10 to 20 intimate physical therapy sessions intended to firm up postbaby pelvic floors. CHINA Recent research from Beijing suggests that electroacupuncture, a treatment combining needles with electrical currents, is as effective as pelvic floor exercises and works in half the time—an average of six weeks instead of three months. T H E T R AV E L Q U E S T I O N W E ’ R E A L L T H I N K I N G
“[Sex toys] can be transported in either checked or carry-on bags, and there’s no special way a traveler needs to pack them.” That’s TSA speak for: Yes, go for it. Technically, it shouldn’t get flagged by the machine. But if it does, you may have to suffer a few giggles from strangers. May be a good reason to look into TSA Pre-Check. Discover more great sex toys at every price point at allure.com/sex-toys.
Gonorrhea, the STI your grandparents knew as the clap, is back, and sadly, it’s stronger than ever. A report from the World Health Organization shows that antibiotic resistance is making gonorrhea—the secondmost reported STI, infecting 820,000 people per year—much harder to treat. If you’re not scared of gonorrhea, here’s a sobering thought: Left untreated, gonorrhea can lead to chronic pelvic pain or infertility. Scientists fear that soon, some strains won’t respond to antibiotics at all. Ironically, the problem is rampant antibiotic use. A CDC study found that one third of all antibiotic prescriptions are unnecessary. But because we fill them to treat even mild ailments like the common cold, the bacteria that causes gonorrhea has evolved to resist nearly every antibiotic. Yes, terrifying. The CDC is busy tracking resistant infections and developing new ways to target antibiotic-resistant gonorrhea through individualized genetic screening. Vaginas and snowflakes have one thing in common: No two are alike. One way to slow the spread of gonorrhea is to pinpoint exactly which antibiotic will work best for the specific strain in your specific body. With these new genetic tests, doctors can find what parts of your genetic code don’t play well with certain antibiotics and guard against ineffective prescriptions. Also a very good idea: Use condoms, and get tested for STIs at least once a year. And if you really want to be safe, cut the other person out of the equation—we did just introduce you to a vibrator that syncs to your favorite playlist, duh.
B AC KG R O U N D B E AU T Y
photographed by carlos chavarría Above: Retro beauty ads purchased at thrift stores and on eBay line the walls of the museum and salon. Left: the entrance of the roadside attraction. Below: two vintage clear-hooded dryers with ashtrays built into the armrests.
Just off Route 62 in the California desert sits the Beauty Bubble, America’s foremost hair museum and kitsch salon. You’ll know it when you see it. The first thing you see when walking into the sorbet-colored Beauty Bubble Salon and Museum is a beehived mannequin named Madge, who tragically lost her arms during a freak manicure. She is, without a doubt, the least interesting thing you will see from that point on. “I like to say she soaked for too long,” jokes Jeff Hafler, the hairstylist and “hair-storian” who’s been collecting beauty memorabilia for the past 26 years or so. As we speak, he’s surrounded by treasures from the past century—a Magnum hair dryer resembling a gilt pistol
ALLURE DECEMBER 2017
B AC KG R O U N D B E AU T Y
plus holster, a bobby pin stapler, stockpiles of toxic hair spray. It sounds like the world’s most adorable torture chamber, but it’s America’s preeminent hair museum, stuffed with thousands of artifacts dating back to the late 19th century. If you find yourself on a road trip through Joshua Tree, you can see it for yourself, and you can stay for a blowout.
ccording to Hafler, hair is as reliable a source as any for studying women of the past century. “Obviously, the bob was a result of women working in factories and cutting their hair short, and then the bobby pin became popular,” he explains. “Then the ’40s and ’50s were the height of glamour, when girls would go to the salon once a week to set their hair.” He gestures toward a towering contraption featuring dozens of dangling clips—a Duart perm machine, fondly donated by Earl Adams, Veronica Lake’s erstwhile hairdresser. “I’d love to see a return to glamour,” Hafler says. Until then? If the 1950s was perm machines and bobby pin staplers, what’ll be the beauty tech that characterizes 2017? Hafler speculates: “I think the industry is ready for a cordless hair dryer.” (We could not agree more.) —BRENNAN KILBANE
The museum is also a functioning salon, with haircuts starting at $35. Above: a vintage 357 Magnum Gun Hair Dryer. Right: stylist and owner Jeff Hafler. Below: Hafler in the fourth grade wearing his favorite “I’m not crazy, I’m just colorful” T-shirt.
“The ’40s and ’50s were the h e i g h t o f g l a m o u r, when girls would go to the salon once a week to set their hair.” DECEMBER 2017 ALLURE
LOOKING BACK An instant icon and symbol of resistance: the pussy hat.
NOVEMBER 8 | TRUMP WINS Trump wins a moderate electoral college majority, loses the popular vote by nearly 2.9 million.
NOVEMBER 22 | PUSSYHAT PROJECT The Pussyhat Project launches, creating that soon-to-be instantly recognizable symbol of defiance and support for women’s rights, gay rights, immigrants’ rights, environmental protection, and health care for all. Fourteen weeks later, the Missoni fall 2017 runway finale features models in pussy hats.
NOVEMBER–MARCH | GRAB YOUR WALLET Several boycotts, including the “Grab Your Wallet” movement, contribute to retailers dropping Trump-branded products. Nordstrom dumps Ivanka Trump’s line on February 2.
The Trump family
DECEMBER 6 | IVANKA AND JARED MOVE Ivanka and her husband, Jared Kushner, announce plans to move to Washington, D.C., to advise her father.
JANUARY–FEBRUARY | SEAN SPICER Press secretary Sean Spicer repeatedly loses his temper and argues with reporters at White House briefings. Ivanka Trump shoes on clearance shelves
HOW THE POLITICS WORLD INFORMED OF BEAUTY [ A TIMELINE ]
It’s basic physics: For every action, there is a reaction. In the case of Donald Trump and the beauty and fashion industries, those reactions have been swift and unambiguous. By David DeNicolo JANUARY 20 | INAUGURATION DAY Aerial photos reveal crowds considerably smaller than those at previous inaugurations. A-list performers: 0.
JANUARY 23 | GLOBAL GAG RULE Trump reinstates the so-called global gag rule, a policy that withholds federal funding from foreign organizations that provide abortion services or education or that advocate for reproductive rights, including the International Planned Parenthood Federation.
JANUARY 21 | WOMEN’S MARCH Millions participate in the Women’s March in Washington, D.C., and cities across the country and around the world. It is reported to be one of the largest single-day demonstrations in American history. The pink hat becomes an icon of resistance.
Melissa McCarthy as Sean Spicer
FEBRUARY 4–MAY 13 | MELISSA MCCARTHY Senator Elizabeth Warren
FEBRUARY 7 | MITCH MCCONNELL During Jeff Sessions’s confirmation hearing, Senator Elizabeth Warren reads a 1986 letter to Congress from Coretta Scott King detailing Sessions’s record of targeting voting-rights advocates in Alabama. Warren is silenced by Senate Majority Leader Mitch McConnell, who says, “She was warned.... Nevertheless, she persisted.”
ALLURE DECEMBER 2017
Melissa McCarthy parodies Spicer in a surprise appearance on SNL. Trump is said to be upset not so much by the content of the skit but because Spicer is played by a woman. Kate McKinnon plays Attorney General Jeff Sessions.
FEBRUARY 6 | FASHION STANDS WITH PLANNED PARENTHOOD The Council of Fashion Designers of America launches “Fashion Stands With Planned Parenthood,” and more than 40 brands sign on. Fashion week resounds with support for women’s rights—and for Planned Parenthood in particular.
FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS’ CREDITS, SEE CREDITS PAGE.
JANUARY 27 | IMMIGRATION BAN Trump signs an executive order temporarily banning immigration from seven Muslim-majority countries.
LOOKING BACK Halima Aden on the cover of Allure
FEBRUARY 8 | “NEVERTHELESS, SHE PERSISTED” “Nevertheless, she persisted” becomes a rallying cry, showing up on merchandise and in memes. In solidarity with Warren, several male senators read the complete text of Scott King’s letter on the Senate floor; they are not silenced. On May 30, Chelsea Clinton publishes a children’s book, She Persisted: 13 American Women Who Changed the World. In June, Democratic senator Kamala Harris, after being interrupted twice by Republican senators during intelligence committee hearings while she is questioning men, starts a fund-raising page on ActBlue to combat efforts to silence women.
An all-inclusive restroom sign
FEBRUARY 15 | HALIMA ADEN Halima Aden, whose family is originally from Somalia, one of the seven Muslim-majority countries in Trump’s controversial travel ban, is signed to IMG Models, later appearing in a hijab on the July cover of Allure (above the words “This Is American Beauty”). On February 17, beauty company Illamasqua states that it will not knowingly sell its products to those who support Trump’s values, and asks customers to take an “antifascism” pledge. On June 12, the CEO of Procter & Gamble and the CEOs of retailers including Target and Walmart reaffirm their companies’ diversity values.
FEBRUARY 22 | TRANSGENDER RIGHTS ROLLED BACK Trump rolls back protections allowing transgender students to use the bathroom that corresponds with their gender identity.
FEBRUARY 23 | VALENTINA SAMPAIO Valentina Sampaio graces French Vogue—the first trans model to appear on the cover. Revlon’s “Choose Love” ad campaign partially benefits LGBTQ youth.
MARCH 28 | MAXINE WATERS’S HAIR Congresswoman Maxine Waters’s hair is called “a James Brown wig” on Fox News; African-American reporter April Ryan is scolded by Spicer, who tells her to “stop shaking your head” during a White House briefing. Representative Maxine Waters
MARCH 29 | #BLACKWOMENATWORK The #blackwomenatwork hashtag emerges for women of color to share their stories of being diminished by coworkers. Waters, 78, is dubbed Auntie Maxine by adoring youth, who share a GIF of her telling MSNBC: “I’m a strong black woman. I cannot be intimidated.”
APRIL 26 | QUEER PRIDE Rhode Island teacher of the year Nikos Giannopoulos strikes a fierce pose in the Oval Office, showing his queer pride.
JUNE 6 | ERIC TRUMP Eric Trump says on Fox News that his father’s opponents are “not even people.”
JUNE 29 | TRUMP ATTACKS MIKA BRZEZINSKI
JUNE 26 | ERIC TRUMP’S MEIN FÜHRER–LIKE HAIRCUT Many observers clock Eric Trump’s Hitler-like haircut, which is almost identical to the style worn by white nationalist Richard Spencer, who celebrated the election in November amid cries of “Hail Trump” and Nazi salutes.
Donald Trump assaults Morning Joe cohost Mika Brzezinski on Twitter, calling her “low I.Q. Crazy Mika” and claiming that he had seen her “bleeding badly from a face-lift,” continuing his bizarre obsession with women and blood (see Megyn Kelly). Republican senator Susan Collins speaks for many when she states, “This has to stop.” Mika Brzezinski
JULY 13 | TRUMP GREETS FRENCH FIRST LADY
FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS’ CREDITS, SEE CREDITS PAGE.
Trump greets French first lady Brigitte Macron by commenting, “You’re in such good shape,” then expresses his approval to President Macron, saying, “Beautiful.” Worldwide reaction: Ew. Chelsea Handler tweets: “To be fair, Trump didn’t know women lived to be 64.”
JULY 18 | AFFORDABLE CARE ACT Defying their party and president, Republican senators Susan Collins of Maine, Shelley Moore Capito of West Virginia, and Lisa Murkowski of Alaska say they will not support a motion to proceed on a straight repeal of the Affordable Care Act, effectively killing the idea. Capito tweets, “I did not come to Washington to hurt people.”
AUGUST 29 | HURRICANE HARVEY On her way to view the Hurricane Harvey devastation in Houston, Melania Trump appears with a fresh blowout in snakeskin stilettos, a bomber jacket, and aviator sunglasses.
Melania Trump’s controversial footwear
AUGUST 29 | MELANIA’S SHOES In The Washington Post: “Trump is the kind of woman who refuses to pretend that her feet will, at any point, ever be immersed in cold, muddy, bacteriainfested Texas water.”
B AC K S TAG E B E AU T Y Model Dilone beaming— and totally glowing— backstage at the Balmain show in Paris
Traffic-stopping lipstick, futuristic ponytails, and sparkles, sparkles everywhere—the spring runways are giving us all something to smile about.
ALLURE DECEMBER 2017
By Sophia Panych
Hairstylists used plenty of imagination—and very few basic black elastics—to create the coolest ponytails of the season.
So many questions. We got the answers. Are scrunchies really back? Yes. Will a bungee cord pull out all my hair? Not if you take it out exactly the way you put it in. How do you slip a ponytail through a plastic tube? With a vacuum, naturally.
Makeup artists used reservoirs of black mascara—and virtually nothing else—to create one of our favorite looks: clumpy lashes. “[Dior designer] Maria Grazia [Chiuri] said not to cover up the freckles,” said makeup artist Peter Philips, who obliged by keeping skin fresh, dewy, and modern.
BEHIND THE SCENES WITH: ASHLEY RUDDER A M E M B E R O F M . A .C .’ S B AC K STAG E M A K E U P T E A M , R U D D E R W O R K E D A TOTA L OF 22 SHOWS IN NEW YORK C I T Y, L O N D O N , A N D MILAN. HERE, SHE SHARES A GLIMPSE OF HER F A S H I O N M O N T H M A R AT H O N .
ALLURE DECEMBER 2017
There’s an art to making lashes clump (and it’s not to just glob on mascara). At Dior (shown here), Philips wedged his brush into the lash line to prop up the roots, then rolled it up through the lashes about three times.
From left: the action backstage; the finished look at Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini; MSGM; all-pink everything at Krizia; makeup artist Tom Pecheux works his magic.
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: IMAXTREE; VICTOR VIRGILE/GAMMA-RAPHO VIA GETTY IMAGES; BRYAN BEDDER/GETTY IMAGES FOR FENTY PUMA BY RIHANNA; COURTESY OF SAM MCKNIGHT; COURTESY OF ASHLEY RUDDER (5)
fenty x puma
B AC K S TAG E B E AU T Y
B AC K S TAG E B E AU T Y
At Anna Sui, makeup artist Pat McGrath painted flowers on the models’ cheeks and legs as a celebration of the glory days of hippiedom. Jeremy Scott transformed Gigi Hadid into a bouquet of flowers for Moschino’s ’80s-themed garden party.
glossy red nails Let’s hear it for cherry-red nail polish—the shade that managed to look both fresh and fierce on the runway.
AVANT GARDEN moschino
“Highlighter doesn’t have to be flesh tone,” said makeup artist Hector Espinal at Fenty x Puma, where he strobed the cheeks up to the temples and set off one of the biggest trends of the season. From New York City to Paris, we saw makeup artists using iridescent opal, glimmering pink, and metallic purple to give skin a chromatic effect.
fenty x puma
It’s hard to get excited about blush. But we’re pretty jacked up about this icy pinkish purple that makes cheeks look chiseled and glistening.
THE CHEEKS ARE LIT
Florals? For spring? Groundbreaking. Before you roll your eyes, take a look at the shows. There isn’t a sweet, predictable bloombehind-the-ear in sight.
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: IMAXTREE; COREY TENOLD; IMAXTREE; JASON LLOYD-EVANS (3)
On short nails, the hue exuded that French je ne sais quoi. Painted on long almond-shaped press-ons at Adam Selman, the color took on a more decadent vibe. “This is a red you can wear with jeans or a party dress,” said manicurist Holly Falcone.
TOP FIVE: O U R FAV O R I T E HAIRSTYLES A HIGHLIGHT REEL OF THE SEASON’S MOST MAJOR HAIR MOMENTS.
In a sea of simple knots and air-dried hair, these five styles were standouts: Delpozo’s askew and oversize bows, model Karly Loyce’s cornrows that she wore in nearly every show, the fivestrand braid at Jil Sander, the bluish-green fringe that hairstylist Sam McKnight hand-dyed and clipped in the hair at Fendi, and the color-blocked stripes painted across hair at Byblos.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: IMAXTREE (2); INDIGITALIMAGES.COM (2); IMAXTREE (2); JASON LLOYD-EVANS (2); IMAXTREE (2)
When is black eyeliner not so basic? When every stroke and flick is made to measure. At Marc Jacobs and Roberto Cavalli, each model had a slightly different wing depending on her eye shape. “If the model has [almond-shaped] eyes, we don’t have to do too much,” said makeup artist Diane Kendal. “For rounder eye shapes, you have to thicken the wing and extend it out.” At Rochas, the liner floated around the eye to create an altogether new and unique shape.
Cleopatra served as this season’s muse, with makeup artists tracing the eyes in inky-black kohl and stretching cat eyes to the extreme.
LINE LIKE AN EGYPTIAN
B AC K S TAG E B E AU T Y
B AC K S TAG E B E AU T Y
“It’s powerful but not severe,” makeup artist Tom Pecheux said of the matte geranium-red liquid lipstick that he spread onto the lips at Max Mara. At Maison Margiela, McGrath created what she called a “flocked lip” shape using the vibrant fuchsia color (Full Panic) from her new Lust MatteTrance line of lipsticks.
sparkles fly It’s no wonder everyone was scrambling to download the Kirakira app—there was more glitter to snap backstage than at a four-year-old’s Frozen-themed birthday party.
BEHIND THE SCENES WITH: SAMANTHA LAU
dries van noten
F I R ST A S S I STA N T TO PECHEUX, LAU SHARES SOME OF HER SNAPS FROM M I L A N FA S H I O N W E E K .
ALLURE DECEMBER 2017
Crystals were placed neatly on the face at Dries Van Noten and Jeremy Scott. Glitter, however, was intentionally messy. The goal was to make it look like the models did it themselves, according to makeup artist Lynsey Alexander at Topshop.
From top: Glittery smoky eyes at Alberta Ferretti; Grace Elizabeth at Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini; a few of Lau’s backstage essentials.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: ROSDIANA CIARAVOLO/GETTY IMAGES; JASON LLOYD-EVANS; COURTESY OF SAMANTHA LAU (3); JASON LLOYD-EVANS (3)
Stoplight red, traffic-cone orange, insanely bright pink—colors this bold usually warn us to “proceed with caution.” But we’re ready to swipe on the season’s blinding lipsticks with abandon.
B E AU T Y PAS S P O RT
A few stars from Kaufmann’s line, clockwise from top: St. John’s Wort Oil Energetic, Enzyme Peel, Detox Oil Scrub, and Oil Bath for the Senses.
The pool at the Susanne Kaufmann spa at the Hotel Post
Somewhere in the Austrian Alps, Danielle Pergament finds fresh air and glowier skin.
A room at the Hotel Post in Bezau
Summer in the Alps
ALLURE DECEMBER 2017
Susanne Kaufmann has the skin of a woman who owns a spa. In fact, Susanne Kaufmann has the skin of a woman who owns a spa in the Austrian Alps, has never touched a chemical in her life, and breathes only the kind of crisp mountain air that has been made by little white buds of edelweiss. My point is: The woman has really good skin. “When I was a child, I would spend the summers here with my grandmother,” says Kaufmann, as we sit in a chalet near the Austrian town of Bezau surrounded by more fresh air than I could inhale in a lifetime. “My cousins and I would collect herbs for tea and blueberries for jam.” Kaufmann’s grandmother also introduced her curious, towheaded granddaughter to the concept of natural skin care. “We made healing tonics and marigold cream. We grew up in nature, in this little hut. It was a wonderful childhood.” Which, as it turns out, is to our (the skin-care-buying public’s) gain. In 2003, Kaufmann opened the Hotel Post spa in Bezau, a village so charming, so cute, so filled with adorable chalets that it may or may not be made of actual milk chocolate. In the years that followed, she opened spas throughout the region, including a newly renovated one in the Waldhaus SilsMaria hotel, near St. Moritz. A few months ago, she set up shop at the Four Seasons at the Surf Club in Miami, now the only place in the States you can get a Susanne Kaufmann treatment. No doubt Kaufmann is talented at making spas—with an aesthetic leaning toward a bright, vaguely medicinal vibe that telegraphs “your skin will be better by the time you leave.” But Kaufmann’s real magic is in the products. Her line is formulated without parabens, phthalates, or, really, anything questionable. Her philosophy: “It’s about being clean, being healthy,” she says. “If your skin care isn’t clean, what’s the point of healthy food or exercise? It all goes together.” It makes sense. I was convinced. Which is why there is only a 10 percent chance I will order raclette and chocolate fondue for dinner. “Well, we are still human,” says Kaufmann with a smile.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: GRAHAM POLLACK (PROP STYLIST: RACHEL HAAS); COURTESY OF BREGENZERWALD TOURISM OFFICE (3); LOOK DIE BILDAGENTUR DER FOTOGRAFEN GMBH/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO
Just when you think you can’t go higher, you realize you can.
she will be
heard Amber Heard says she “would get a gold medal for not avoiding controversy.” Danielle Pergament opens a bottle of wine (or two) with the actress friends call Calamity. photographed by daniel jackson My ex-boyfriend and I had a fight in front of Amber Heard, and she took my side. Hang on, hang on. Let me start over. I am in Los Angeles to meet the actress for lunch. Your standard celebrity-profile lunch. The arrangement is fairly routine: I was afforded 90 minutes to meet a famous actress, talk about her role in _____ (in this case, Justice League and Aquaman), get to know her, get to know her well, and, ultimately, define her character and convey who she is as a human in 3,000 words or less. Reductive? Absolutely. Actually possible? I had my doubts. Heard is running late—traffic on the 101, you know how it is—so I have a pre-interview glass of wine. When she arrives, we choose a table outside and settle into the approximated anonymity of a leafy patio and blazing sun. Dressed in a black linen dress and a black hat, she could almost go unnoticed. Almost. Up close, she has that glowy movie star complexion that radiates fame. (I later learn that the radiation is also due to Becca highlighter and Chanel concealer.) She wears lots of earrings—five in one ear, three in the other—and rings and bracelets and nothing matches and it’s all this cool, eclectic, la vie bohème jumble. I instantly want to be her. Also, her right hand is covered in a huge white bandage. S o I o p en w it h : “ H iN ic e To M e e t Yo u W h a t T h e H e l l HappenedToYourHand.” (Glass of wine, empty stomach, don’t judge.) Leather jacket by Ralph Lauren Collection. Embellished nylon spandex bodysuit by Norma Kamali. Earrings by Alexis Bittar and Heard’s own. Makeup colors: Brow Precise Micro Pencil in Soft Brown, Master Precise Skinny Gel Pencil in Defining Black, and SuperStay Matte Ink Liquid Lipstick in Pioneer by Maybelline New York. Details, see Shopping Guide. These pages: Fashion stylist, Beth Fenton. Hair: Didier Malige. Makeup: Romy Soleimani. Manicure: Marisa Carmichael. Set design: Gerard Santos. Production: Holly Gore for Rosco Production.
“Turns out that decorative plastic trees are almost as flammable as their organic counterparts,” she says wryly. “I’m renting a place in Australia [while filming Aquaman], and it has one of those trees—and my assistant was lighting candles.” Pause. “I like a lot of fire around me.” (OK, reader, I know what you’re thinking: Was she speaking literally or metaphorically? I don’t know! Maybe I knew! I kind of had a hunch! But I couldn’t tell for sure!) “I smelled something burning, and the next second the whole house was full of black smoke.” Heard clicks into superhero mode. “I’m rushing to the kitchen; I’m soaking towels; I’m yelling at the people who are blowing on the fire and making it worse. There were little pools of molten plastic that had coagulated—effectively, little bonfires under the tree. I managed to put out the fire quickly, but what I didn’t notice is I had my hand underneath a source of dripping plastic. I thought it was ash or debris. I basically napalmed myself.” Then story becomes parable: “You know you’re getting too good at putting out fires when you notice others’ ineptitude. It’s starting to cause me worry. Why am I so good at this?” Perhaps not surprisingly, “My friends call me Calamity.” Calamity lets me sit with that one for a minute as 10,000 questions rush to the front of my brain. That’s when the waiter shows up. She orders a glass of 2015 Walt Santa Rita Hills pinot noir. I see no reason to stand on ceremony. “How about a bottle?”
was a victim of domestic violence in a previous relationship, which is an antiseptic way of saying that she was beaten. And when your husband is maybe the most famous actor in the world, things get complicated. Which is an antiseptic way of saying torturous. After denials and failed attempts to destroy Heard’s credibility, Johnny Depp paid her $7 million. She has donated all of it to the ACLU and the Children’s Hospital Los Angeles. As a famous person—and a person who has been on the receiving end of domestic violence—is it incumbent upon her to help others? Does she have to use her power for good? “I don’t have to; I have to. If I didn’t have a platform, I would stand on my toes,” says Amber. (I’m switching to her first name now because, come on, we’re talking about some heavy shit.) “I have a semifunctioning brain and a semifunctioning limbic system, and as a human being, it is incumbent on me to make the world a better place in any small, insignificant way I can. I’ve always tried to do the right thing. I used everything I was given. I had to make it better for the next person.” When you’re talking to Amber Heard, she’s incredibly focused; she’s a fiercely deep listener, like she’s staring into your soul. It’s easy to assume a connection with her. And yes, I know this is what movie stars do for a living, but with her, it just feels real. There’s nothing disingenuous here. Whatever happened between her and her former
“I didn’t realize that until about year and a half ago.... I did not realize how far we have to go to be equal. [And by equal] I mean fair.” Let’s pause for a brief recap on Amber Heard, Famous Actress: She’s from Texas and moved to Los Angeles when she was 17. Her first major movie role was Friday Night Lights, and her first leading role was All the Boys Love Mandy Lane. She starred in Drive Angry opposite Nicolas Cage and The Rum Diary opposite Johnny Depp. This month, she plays Mera in Justice League and then will reprise the role in Aquaman. To get into (insanely good) shape for Mera, “I trained with Gunnar Peterson here in L.A.,” she says. “I’d wake up, train, eat my hard-boiled egg and some kale and then go stunt or martial arts training. I spent about five hours of my day training. For my next movie I should be in sweatpants.” I ask Heard if she ever feels like she has an absurd life. “I have that moment a lot,” she says. “When I’m suspended over a set in a bright blue Lycra onesie attached to these wires and a harness and I’m flying over the ocean and I’m asking questions like ‘Have I already done my hydrokinesis or are we speaking in a bubble?’” Yes, there is a lot of fantasy. But there’s also reality. Falling under basic facts about Amber Heard: She was married to Johnny Depp. Past tense. If you’ve read anything about the 31-year-old actress in the past couple of years, aside from the news of her recent breakup with Elon Musk, you have read that she
husband is not what gave rise to her sense of justice. “I have supported the ACLU since I was 16,” she says. “When I was growing up, my friends had ’N Sync posters, and I collected feminist propaganda from World War II. Our mothers and grandmothers worked to make an environment that was deceptively comfortable. I took it for granted. By comparison to other places or previous generations, we’re doing great. Yeah, sure, there have been some sexist things here.” She shakes her head at her own naïveté. “I was so wrong. I was so fucking wrong.” There’s no way to talk about misogyny or feminism without addressing the current national discourse. Whether you think Harvey Weinstein and Donald Trump and Roger Ailes and Bill Cosby are predators, superpredators, or, you know, just...misunderstood, you can’t deny that women’s rights are the subject of a national dialogue in 2017. Amber, as you might imagine, has something to say about that. “Before the Grabber in Chief, before the reeling back that we collectively had as women, I had already had my own reeling back. I had already realized the roots of misogyny reach far deeper and are far more ubiquitous.” Just to be clear: Amber is not talking about society in general; this shit is personal. “I didn’t realize that until
Makeup colors: Sourcils Styler in Chatain, Monsieur Big Mascara, and Matte Shaker Liquid Lipstick in Kiss Me Cherie by LancĂ´me. Details, see Shopping Guide.
Black leather jacket by Ralph Lauren Collection. Black embellished nylon spandex bodysuit and black gloves by Norma Kamali. Earrings by Alexis Bittar and Heard’s own. Details, see Shopping Guide.
“It’s a tricky balance between staying aware and also staying connected to a sense of hope and productivity and showing up for life.”
about a year and a half ago. I had been living with my head in the sand because I was comparing it to other places or to the past. I did not realize how far we have to go to be equal. [And by equal] I mean fair.” Yes, there are people who will say, “Boo-hoo, the millionaire Hollywood actress is sad—give me a break.” And to those people, I would say this: She was born poor, and whatever happened, she is where she is now. She has just as much right to be an injured person as anyone else. (Amber, if you’re reading this, I did not just call you a victim. There’s not a drop of victim in the woman.) As she puts it, “Same shit, nicer furniture.” To give her a break from talking about anything uncomfortable or difficult (something the best reporters always try to do!), I ask what she’s reading. You want to know what she’s reading? Currently, Cleopatra: A Life. Yesterday, she read a biography of Catherine the Great. The day before she read a history of the Romanovs: “I fully recommend the Romanovs. You cannot create more salacious, incredible, unbelievable page-turning fiction than that of the history of the czars.” Who cares about the history of the czars because this woman reads a dense, historical nonfiction tome a day. “I have a lot of downtime on set.” OK, fine, back to salacious: Does she identify as
the nuanced nature of humanity. As we become more educated and expand the facts of our nature, we keep adding letters. It was a great shield, but now we’re stuck behind it. It’s so important to resist labels. I don’t care how many letters you add. At some point, it’s going to spell ‘WE ARE HUMAN.’ ” I pour more wine. I start to see Amber as my sage. A woman who is a generous, open soul; a compatriot; a fellow traveler. She rummages through her bag for lip balm and can’t find any. I offer her my Yves Saint Laurent Rouge Volupté Shine Oil-in-Stick Ready to Care & Shine Lip Colour and Oh My God How Is This Name Still Going On. I tell her to keep it. It’s what best friends do. “Equality shouldn’t be up for debate,” she says earnestly. “Are you for equal treatment of persons? I’ll let you think about it,” she says, the opposite of earnestly. “History tends to favor those on the right side of it. Whether it’s civil rights in 1962 or suffrage in 1914 or gay rights in 2007. All of these debates seemed specific at the time, but if you pull back to the macro, there’s a trend: fairness. Justice is not as nuanced or delicate as it’s made out to be. And as the texture of our culture changes, [equality] will manifest differently in our debates.” We are well past our allotted time. More than likely, there’s another bottle of pinot noir. But really, when
“Everyone told me: ‘You cannot do this.’... ‘You’re throwing it all away. You can’t do this to your career.’ And I said, ‘I cannot do this any other way. Watch me.’ ” bisexual? As soon as the question is out of my mouth I feel like an idiot. “I don’t identify as anything.” As tempted as I may be to explain Amber’s sexuality, I’m going to let her do it: “I’m a person. I like who I like. I happened to be dating a woman, and people started taking pictures of us walking to our car after dinner. I [was] holding her hand, and I realized that I have two options: I can let go of her hand and, when asked about it, I can say that my private life is my private life. Or I could not let go and own it.” Guess what she did. That’s when the Hollywood Industrial Complex rumbled to life. “Everyone told me: ‘You cannot do this.’ I had played opposite Nicolas Cage [in one movie], and in another I was playing opposite Johnny. And everyone said, ‘You’re throwing it all away. You can’t do this to your career.’ And I said, ‘I cannot do this any other way. Watch me.’ ” At this point, I decide with absolute certainty never to cross her. “They pointed to no other working romantic lead, no other actress, that was out. I didn’t come out. I was never in. It’s limiting, that LGBTQ thing. It served a function as an umbrella for marginalized people to whom rights were being denied, but it loses its efficacy because of
you’re as close as we are, when conversation flows this freely, when everything is this fluid, how can you quantify something as pedestrian as bottles of wine? By now, I am certain of one thing: Amber Heard is my soul mate. What can I say? The heart wants what the heart wants. Behind me, a young woman in a long, flowing bright orange skirt and purple heels walks into the restaurant. Amber does something I’ve never seen a famous person do. She calls out to her: “I love your skirt! You look beautiful!” It’s a nice moment, a gracious gesture. And I point out that we, all women, don’t tell one another enough that we are beautiful. “It’s true. We don’t,” she says, pausing in a way that (I am learning) means she is about to tacitly disagree. “I was wired from an early age: I don’t want to be the princess. I want to be the prince. I want to do the fun stuff. I would rather be brave or smart than pretty.” Easy for the pretty girl to say that, I say. “They’re not mutually exclusive, my face and my brain. We have this medulla approach to humanity. We separate the soul from the body.” Well, we do and we don’t. I point out the adage that you get the face you deserve at 50.
Gray chiffon-andfeather top from Early Halloween. Earrings from New York Vintage. Details, see Shopping Guide.
Dolce & Gabbana pearl bra top from New York Vintage. Ostrich-feather-and-silk pants by Thom Browne. Leather shoes by Neil J. Rodgers. Details, see Shopping Guide.
“What an honor to grow into your face,” she says, “to have the things that aren’t ephemeral speak the loudest.” There’s a running narrative in Amber’s life. I’ll call it the Adjective Problem. I ask her, a former model, a remarkably trite but crucial question: Is being called beautiful problematic? “[As a kid,] seeing princesses in my books called beautiful was frustrating. I found the same frustration in Hollywood. I read 5 to 10 scripts a week, and 4 out of 5 have nothing else to say about the female lead. Always the same adjectives: beautiful or sexy or some version of it. I started saying to my agents, ‘Don’t send me scripts where the first adjective in the female description is “beautiful.” And if the second is “enigmatic,” throw it in the trash.’ The word ‘enigmatic’ means ‘Her backstory doesn’t matter.’ I fell for that so many times.” What’s the first adjective for the male lead? “There isn’t one—it depends on the movie and the story. And that’s the key.” Her voice drops, presumably mimicking how a script would sound if it came to life. “Rugged. Man has seen action in his day. He’s used to giving orders and not taking them.” Then she’s Amber again. “There are these nuanced descriptions of what would be called a character. Women aren’t afforded the same luxury. When I first came here, and being young and on my own and having a Southern accent—I was just treated much dumber than they normally treat you, which is really saying something. I love being told I’m smart, but can you imagine saying that to a guy?”
That’s when the ex-boyfriend (also my ride) arrives to pick me up. Only I have no plans to ever leave this table. Which is how I arrive at a very weird moment: fighting with an ex who, until the day before, I hadn’t seen in 18 years while a famous actress plays referee. Alex (at this point I’ll give him a name): “You’re mad because I called someone a pussy.” Me (remembering why we broke up): “I don’t accept female-anatomy slang as a synonym for weakness. Amber, do you ever say it?” Amber (diplomatic yet decisive and lovely in every way): “My dad taught me to break horses, and he’d yell at me, ‘Don’t be such a pussy!’ I was like, ‘Dad, I’m eight.’ No, I don’t say it. I don’t equate anything feminine with being weak.” Eventually, it really is time to leave. I consider this smart, beautiful woman across the table. In 31 years, she has gone through a lot. And a whole bunch of it has sucked, and a whole bunch of it is because she’s famous. I ask her if she has any regrets. “I’m bad with regrets,” she says. And then she explains the one thing that has driven everything else. “I want to squeeze the juice from the motherfucking orange. I was given one orange. You have one life, and I just couldn’t, I just can’t imagine not squeezing every ounce of juice I could possibly get from it. Is there anything worse than a life not lived? If I could write one honest sentence, it would be this: I have not wasted a single second.”
Feather jacket by Norma Kamali. Makeup colors: Infallible Pro-Glow Concealer in Creamy Natural, Brow Stylist Shape & Fill in Blonde, and Colour Riche Matte Lip Lipcolour in Matte-traction Red by L’Oréal Paris. Details, see Shopping Guide.
sour patch kid Eye shadow inspired by watermelon gummiesâ€”and nearly as addictive. On Adrienne JĂźliger: Lace jacket and dress by Christopher Kane. Silver earrings by Pamela Love. Makeup colors: Color Stick in M804 and M302 and Smoky Extravagant Mascara by Make Up For Ever. Nail Lacquer in Santa Monica Beach Peach by OPI. Details, see Shopping Guide. These pages: Fashion stylist, Mattias Karlsson. Makeup: Lucy Bridge. Hair: Mari Ohashi. Manicure: Adam Slee. Prop stylist: Alice Kirkpatrick.
s h o c k tr eatment
pink your poison
Take the milkiness out of pastel polish and you get a badass, punky hit of color. Insta-Dri Nail Color in Peach Buzz by Sally Hansen.
Eleven months out of the year, weâ€™ll admit it: Our makeup can be predictable. But this is not one of those months. We give you license: Get freaky. Get fantastical. Make your eye shadow the life of the party. photographed by ben toms
bright on In which highlighterpink cat eyes look almost neutral. Almost. On Xie Chaoyu: LamĂŠ dress by Molly Goddard. Earrings by Pamela Love. Pigment in Red Electric by M.A.C. Details, see Shopping Guide.
peacock eyes Teal, lime, violet: Each is strong on its own; theyâ€™re even better together. Lace dress by Valentino. Earrings by Mounser. Makeup colors: Duo Eyeshadow in Tokyo, Man Ray Eyeshadow Palette, Audacious Mascara in Minerve, Powermatte Lip Pigment in Light My Fire, and Nail Polish in Chinatown by Nars. Details, see Shopping Guide.
baby blues When nails are short, rounded, and without a hint of shine, a pastel manicure becomes truly commanding. Nail polish in Find Me an Oasis by Essie.
flush hour The new rule for applying blush: You guessed it. There are none. Cotton poplin top by Isa Arfen. Earrings by Alta Ora and Castlecliff. Makeup colors: Diorblush in Happy Cherry, Hydra Life Fresh Hydration Sorbet Creme, and Diorskin Forever foundation in Ivory by Dior. Details, see Shopping Guide.
color story The beauty equivalent of shooting the moon (look it up). Viscose dress by Stella McCartney. Earrings by Judith Hendler. Makeup colors: 24/7 Glide-On Eye Pencil in Freak, Afterglow Highlighter Palette, and Vice Lipstick in Exhibition by Urban Decay. Details, see Shopping Guide.
frosted lips Kat Von Dâ€™s Dreamer liquid lipstick makes for the perfect bubble-gum blue. Polyester jacket by Marc Jacobs. Details, see Shopping Guide.
Clockwise from top left: architectural ruffles (and cheek-defying blush) at Valentino; Maybelline New York Baby Lips Crayon in Playful Purple; neon flourishes at Concept Korea; Kat Von D Liquid Lipstick in Dreamer; pastel explosions at Delpozo; everything at Missoni; Sephora Collection Colorful Shadow & Liner in Fresh Limeade.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: ALESSANDRO GAROFALO/INDIGITAL.TV; JOSEPHINE SCHIELE; IMAXTREE; JOSEPHINE SCHIELE; IMAXTREE; LUCA TOMBOLINI/INDIGITAL.TV; JOSEPHINE SCHIELE
If there’s one takeaway from the spring 2018 shows, it’s that delicate can be powerful.
coral fixation Orange, three ways: neon on the lips, pastel on the nails, Kidman on the brows. Cotton top by Prada. Silver earrings by Lapponia Jewelry. Makeup colors: Brow Powder Duo in Naturel, Rouge Allure Lip Colour in Ardente, and Nail Colour in Espadrilles by Chanel. Details, see Shopping Guide.
photographed by horacio salinas
What’s it like to indulge in $93,007 worth of pampering in a single week? Molly Young submits to the house calls, the four-figure haircuts, and the customized everything to find out what it’s like to be...
the world’s most pampered woman
The celebrity manicurist Deborah Lippmann arrived at my apartment at 1:15 P.M. in the middle of fashion week, which was inconvenient for her—she was doing shows for Badgley Mischka, Victoria Beckham, Kate Spade, etc.—but exceptionally convenient for me. This imbalance was important because I was spending a week as the world’s most pampered woman, and reckless disregard for the convenience of others is a key aspect of extreme pampering. I will explain. In my normal life, I am a writer. But for one week, as an Allure experiment, I spent my days as the world’s most pampered woman. I ate meals prepared by an elite personal chef, received a house call from Gisele Bündchen’s hairstylist, got exfoliated by Kim Kardashian West’s facialist, and applied $25,000 worth of serums and creams perfectly customized to target my specific flaws. Plus more. For seven days, pampering was my full-time job. Now I know what it’s like. And you will, too, because I am going to break down the seven truths of the world’s most pampered woman. Shall we?
1. SHE EXPECTS PEOPLE TO READ HER MIND.
Lippmann lugged her manicure kit (a black Tumi suitcase that weighed about 300 pounds) up two flights of grimy stairs to my apartment, where my cat started chewing it. “Do you do a lot of house calls?” I asked. “Mostly for celebrities,” she replied. I nodded as though this were relevant to me. Lippmann filed, buffed, oiled, exfoliated, and decuticled my nails with her signature waterless manicure before asking what color polish I wanted. “You’re the expert,” I said. “What do you think?” She selected a screaming-red hue called It’s Raining Men, which was eerie because I wear only red polish. “How did you know?” I asked. Lippmann shrugged. She just knew. When you spend as much time as L i p p m a n n d o e s a ro u n d h i g h l y demanding clients, you develop an extrasensory ability to interpret unspoken desires. How else could you possibly survive? My session with Lippmann spanned a long, luxurious hour, but if her VIP
If there is one thing that distinguishes the ultrapampered from the merely indulged, it is privacy. The most pampered woman will always be separated from t h e o u t s i d e w o r l d by at least three doors and, in the case of the Peninsula, a maze of intricate hallways to ensure that she will not encounter anyone who isn’t 100 percent meant to be there. clients are in a hurry—and at this echelon, they usually are—she can deliver a flawless manicure in 15 minutes flat. Which brings us to truth number two.
2. SHE DOESN’T H AV E T I M E F O R THIS.
The Julien Farel Restore Salon & Spa occupies 10,000 square feet of prime real estate off of Park Avenue and is home to the Power Hour haircut ($1,000), which can be paired with a simultaneous manicure ($75) and cappuccino for the woman who isn’t truly living unless she’s multitasking. I began my session with a diagnosis: My hair was too long. “It is possible to go overboard with length,” Farel said tactfully. Because he is French and looks like Cary Grant, I submitted to his vision without question. He examined each strand on my head individually before snipping. After 40 focused minutes and around 10,000 cuts, my hair looked somehow both longer and thicker. This was mathematically impossible but empirically true. In the gleaming salon mirrors I looked like a painting of myself. I felt as if it might be appropriate for Farel to sign the lower right corner of my face. My cut took place in the VIP area, which was surrounded by private suites (for celebrities and civilian men who prefer not to be gawked at while having their hair colored). Beyond the suites was the main floor of the salon, and as I wound my way outside I understood that the world’s most pampered woman is always insulated from civilians because...
3. YO U CA N ’ T S I T WITH HER. For my Biologique Recherche Haute Couture facial ($25,000 for the full program, including seven months of facials, skin assessments, and custom products), I ascended to the top floor of the Peninsula Hotel and was placed in the couples suite, even though I am just one person. If there is one thing that distinguishes the ultrapampered from the merely indulged, it is privacy. The most pampered woman will always be separated from the outside world by at least three doors and, in the case of the Peninsula, a maze of intricate hallways to ensure that she will not encounter anyone who isn’t 100 percent meant to be there. Because Biologique Recherche is a French company, my facial began with a series of very French questions: Do I smoke? Do I practice nudism? Do I enjoy basking in the sun? (Nah; no, but not ruling it out; yes.) My face was then scanned by a machine designed to reveal clogged pores, which was horrifying. I took a snapshot of the screen and texted it to a friend. “Your face looks like a poppy-seed bagel,” he wrote back. Another machine then used probes to measure my skin’s elasticity and “transepidermal water loss” (something you apparently really don’t want). My scores went straight to France, where an entirely new line of Molly Young Skin Care could be formulated. Eight customized serums and two creams arrived at my door a few days later. But back to the couples suite: As with many French products—escargot,
Roquefort—a Biologique facial is not for the faint of heart. For one thing, it’s cold. No hot towels, no steaming. Mine ended with an application of Cryo-Sticks, which are wands made of surgical stainless steel that tighten the skin until it’s as seamless as a tulip petal. Afterward, I was led to a lounge with gluten-free apple-granola bites and beds with fluffy, fresh duvets where I could, I guess, “recover” from my treatment in total lassitude. It was the most private place on earth. If I died there, I could go undiscovered for weeks. Instead, I drifted into a nap, confident that I could go straight to lunch when I emerged because...
FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS’ CREDITS, SEE CREDITS PAGE.
4 . S H E WA K E S U P L I K E T H A T. Dara Liotta’s practice is located in an Upper East Side townhouse that feels less like a medical facility than the elegant home it likely once was. During our consultation, she explained the origins of her trademarked LitLift ($4,000). While exploring Instagram, the plastic surgeon had noticed an emphasis on contouring and strobing. Wouldn’t it be nice, she mused, if people could wake up like that instead of spending two hours with a blending sponge? Over two years, Liotta developed a method of employing Botox and fillers on six key points of the face to achieve contouring and strobing without makeup. The result lasts up to two years. In the exam room, I reclined on a faux-fur pillow while my face was injected with hyaluronic acid fillers— Juvéderm Vollure and Juvéderm Volbella—and a vial of Botox. When I began to faint (needles!), a handful of candy was delivered and an ice pack was placed behind my neck. Then it was over, and a mirror was lifted to my face. The results were instant. I did not look unrecognizable; I merely looked the way I do in restaurants with flattering lighting. And I wasn’t even wearing makeup! The makeuplessness was further facilitated by a visit to David Colbert’s office for the Runway Facial and Runway Legs treatments ($4,000 for both). They’re popular among (you guessed it) runway models (like Adriana Lima and Stella Maxwell) and actresses (like Chloë Sevigny and
T H E F I N A L TA L LY
A-LIST INDULGENCE WILL R E A L LY S E T Y O U B A C K .
Deborah Lippmann house call:
$500 Julien Farel Power Hour haircut and manicure:
$1,075 Biologique Recherche Haute Couture Program:
$4,000 David Colbert’s Runway Facial and Runway Legs treatments:
$4,000 Tracie Martyn Red Carpet Facial and Ruby Ray Treatment:
$600 Portable Chef: SERENA WILLIAMS
$707 per week Krigler Custom Perfume:
$50,000 Harry Josh house call:
$2,500 Aliana Lopez makeup session:
$750 The Eyebrow Doctor:
$1,500 Mark Hotel Madison Suite:
$2,375 per night Total: $93,007
NAME HERE RIHANNA
Michelle Williams). At the doctor’s airy loft, I was subjected to radio frequency from a beeping machine, chemical-peeled from head to toe, hit with 5,000 laser pulses, coated in serum, and finally soaked in LED lights to help the serum penetrate. “How long does it take for the laser to stimulate collagen growth?” I asked, while an intimidating machine fired away at my thighs. “It’s happening now,” said Charissa Tagupa, Colbert’s colleague. When I was finished, she held a mirror up to my face and said, “See? You don’t need makeup.” And she was correct. Most facials leave my sensitive skin hot to the touch and marbled like raw bacon. This one gave my skin a tight, dewy, all-thesame-color finish. “How often do clients come in for this treatment?” I asked. “Once a month,” the doctor said. Quick math: I could stop wearing foundation for only $24,000 a year! When my glow subsided two days later, I considered applying tinted moisturizer but instead booked a Tracie Martyn Red Carpet Facial ($450), which is beloved by Rihanna, Sarah Jessica Parker, Kim Kardashian West, and seemingly everyone who has ever attended an awards show. Upon arrival at the spa, I signed my name in the guest book right below a sweet note from Naomi Campbell and accepted a crystal tumbler of lemon water, then stripped naked for my Ruby Ray Treatment ($150 for 15 minutes). This involved climbing into what looked like a tanning bed, but instead of being bathed in UV radiation, I was surrounded by pink LED light designed to minimize stretch marks and fine lines. A hallmark of extreme pampering is excess square footage. Surely there was no reason the Tracie Martyn facial room had to be the size of my whole apartment...but why not? In New York City, unused space is the ultimate luxury. My skin was swathed in pineapple-enzyme exfoliant ($90) and “resculpting” cream ($175) before being zapped with an electric current to lift and tone. By the time I left two hours later, I was starving, and not just any snack would do. I needed something tailored to my exact nutritional requirements, because...
5. SHE CUSTOMIZES EVERY THING.
Off-the-shelf green juice is fine for civilians but hardly adequate for the world’s most pampered woman. The following morning I woke at 6:15 A.M., when a courier buzzed my doorbell. He had arrived to drop off a cooler of meals from Portable Chef ($707 per week), a service that prepares organic meals tailored to the pickiest diets. Mine specified no eggplant, no pork, low sugar, and a total of 1,500 calories, which is a number I picked because I thought I’d read somewhere that Kate Hudson eats 1,500 calories a day. I fetched my cooler and returned to bed, falling asleep to thoughts of breakfast: a whole-grain German apple pancake, probiotic yogurt with lemon zest, slow-cooked strawberry puree, and the world’s tiniest handful of toasted slivered almonds. The sustenance was necessary for my appointment at the Plaza Hotel, where I met Ben Krigler of the iconic Krigler perfume house to begin the process of crafting a bespoke fragrance ($50,000). The company is sort of like the inside of a private jet, in that you need to belong to a certain tax bracket to be even vaguely familiar with it. Everyone from Grace Kelly to Audrey Hepburn wore Krigler fragrances; Ben is the fifth-
third. So as I was becoming a perfumer, it dawned on me: This is what billionaires are buying when they sit down to make a bespoke scent—the opportunity to create a work of art without undergoing the decades of training that underpin Krigler’s craft. What they’re purchasing is a scent. What they’re paying for is the opportunity to feel creative. After we finished, Krigler would send a recording of our interview to his staff for analysis, and the process of formulation would begin. It takes months and cannot be hurried. But the perfect scent, he said, is worth the effort: “Life is very difficult these days, and people want a perfume that makes them feel better. It’s like having a truffle on your pasta.” I appreciated his honesty. In fact, I’d come to expect it, because...
6. SHE DOESN’T CARE FOR S U GA R C OAT I N G.
As with any important person, the arrival of Harry Josh was preceded by the arrival of Harry Josh’s assistant, who appeared at my house 15 minutes early to set up a proper work area for the man who styles Gisele, Karlie Kloss, Lily Aldridge, and Miranda Kerr. (His house calls, he says, cost “in the four to five figures, depending on services and timing.”)
Rich people, I’ve noticed, don’t want things. They need things. I’m going to need an extra massage. “Want” is too low priority, as verbs go. generation heir to the throne. We sipped champagne in a penthouse suite. “When you create a custom perfume, you become a perfumer,” Krigler explained, as he guided me through a lengthy interview that included questions like “What was your favorite cake as a child?” (lemon) and “What is your favorite season?” (autumn). Then Krigler spritzed perfume on paper testers, passed them to me, and observed my reactions. I liked the black tea notes from one, the fig notes from another, the violet from a
When Josh arrived, I told him that I wanted my hair to drape like Lily Aldridge’s. He gave me a look. “You have a cowlick right”—he gestured at the front of my head—“here. That’s why there’s always one little piece whisking in the opposite direction.” Using a series of clips and targeted multidirectional blow-drying with his new Harry Josh Pro Tools Ultra Light Pro Dryer ($349), he corrected the cowlick. “But,” he warned ominously, “it will always come back.” “Will I ever have the Lily Aldridge drape?”
7. S H E D O E S N ’ T S W E AT D E TA I L S . S H E PAY S O T H E R P E O P L E TO S W E AT THEM FOR HER.
“No,” he said. “But you don’t need it!” When you pay to have a session with Harry Josh, you are buying straight talk (no drape for me) and a diagnosis of your styling troubles (nobody had ever told me I had a cowlick). After he left, my hair looked so good that I decided I needed makeup to go with it and asked makeup artist Aliana Lopez—who primps the likes of Sienna Miller—for a visit ($750). The only problem was that I was going to dinner with my family in 40 minutes, so the job had to be
done in the back seat of a cab. “No prob,” said Lopez. We hopped in a car. I showed her a photo of Elle Fanning with fantastical glittery eye makeup. “That’s way over the top for a family dinner,” Lopez said, not mincing words. “How a b o u t a s h i m m e r y c o p p e r eye instead?” Before the ride was over, she’d finished the look with powder and coral lipstick guaranteed to last through multiple servings of enchiladas. I hadn’t even thought to stipulate long-lasting lip color, but I didn’t have to, because...
My eyebrows are fine but not perfect, so I paid a visit to the TriBeCa studio of Piret Aava, aka the Eyebrow Doctor, who tints and microblades the brows of clients like Serena Williams and Olivia Palermo. I was antsy because my brows are already thick and because I’ve seen some truly dreadful microblading. I told Aava that I didn’t want to look like Eugene Levy, and she suggested that we add six strokes (read: hairs) to my brows in strategic places. Great. I reclined in the chair. “Little scratches!” she chirped, tattooing six hairs on my face. The results? My eyebrows looked exactly the same, but more symmetrical. Love! My new brows cost $1,500—that’s $250 per hair. “It’s an investment for your face,” Aava said wisely. By the time I made it uptown to the Mark Hotel for an impromptu staycation in the 1,100-square-foot Madison Suite ($2,375 per night), I was so overpampered that I could barely speak. I was, however, able to squeak out a room-service order for salted butterscotch pudding ($17) with a side of whipped cream. “The pudding comes with whipped cream,” came the reply. “I know,” I said. “But I’m going to need extra.” Rich people, I’ve noticed, don’t want things. They need things. I need you to bring me a size 2. I’m going to need an extra massage. “Want” is too low priority, as verbs go. The hotel suite had two bathrooms, so I took a shower in each one and used up two Italian robes and drank half a bottle of champagne before sprawling out on an acre of stratospheric-thread-count Quagliotti bedding. And with that, my decadent week was over. And not a moment too soon, because I was bone tired. It was a faux exhaustion, not an earned one—the kind of fatigue you feel after spending the whole day in a car or on a plane. The point of being the world’s most pampered woman, of course, is that pampering is your work. But I’d never want to do it full-time.
unraveling at the edges Satin silk dress and tights by Balenciaga. Makeup colors: Inkstroke Eyeliner in Shikkoku Black, Full Lash MultiDimension Mascara, and Rouge Rouge lipstick in Peruvian Pink by Shiseido. Details, see Shopping Guide. These pages: Fashion stylist, Zara Zachrisson. Hair: Tamas Tuzes. Makeup: Susie Sobol. Manicure: Yukie Miyakawa. Model: Zuzu Tadeushuk. Prop stylist: Mila Taylor-Young. Production: Tracy Whiting for And Production.
it was all a dream THEY SWIRL, THEY SWISH, THEY LEVITATE. JUST TRY TO STAND STILL IN THIS SEASONâ€™S RUFFLES. photographed by yelena yemchuk
layer cake Silk dress by No. 21. Makeup colors: KhĂ´l Couture Waterproof Eyeliner in Black and Le Rouge Perfecto Lip Balm by Givenchy. Details, see Shopping Guide.
ripple effect Bra by Araks. Crepe-georgette-and-lace dress by Elie Saab. Tights by We Love Colors. Details, see Shopping Guide.
sweet and vicious
Clockwise from top: Urban Decay Eyeshadow in Narcotic, M.A.C. Cream Colour Base in Pearl, CoverGirl TruBlend Blush in Light Rose, and Shiseido Inkstroke Eyeliner in Shikkoku Black.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: GORMAN & GORMAN; JOSEPHINE SCHIELE; LUCAS VISSER; JOSEPHINE SCHIELE
CAN ROBINâ€™S-EGG BLUE BE POWERFUL? COTTON-CANDY PINK EDGY? ALL IT TAKES IS A STREAK OF BLACK LIQUID LINER.
in the cloud Tulle top by Comme des Garรงons from New York Vintage. Gloves by Gaspar Gloves. Makeup colors: Intensify Me Liquid Liner in Intense Black, Peacock Flare Mascara, TruBlend Blush in Light Rose, and Melting Pout Liquid Lipstick in Gel-ful by CoverGirl. Details, see Shopping Guide.
the looks behind the news
FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS’ CREDITS, SEE CREDITS PAGE.
The hair and makeup of TV news has a long, complicated, and, yes, sexist history. Judy Bachrach investigates.
When one very famous blonde news anchor cut her hair, “it was empowering; it was so powerful,” says Vincenza Carovillano, a makeup artist who has worked at Fox News, NBC, ABC, and CBS and whose skills are admired by competitors and anchorwomen alike. She applauded the anchorwoman’s decision to chop off many layers of blonde. “It almost feels like you’re cutting off layers of bullshit,” Carovillano explains. It was an important personal statement, she continues: “Like, here I am!” The journalist had evolved: With one swift snip, she had gone from a lengthy tousled hairstyle she privately described to close friends as “fuck me”—meaning the frenzied piles of tresses were intended to seduce viewers—to the short, severe cut she described as “fuck you.” Within months she had muted her lip color to a nude, highlighted with just a touch of champagne gloss. All around TV news, there’s a quiet revolution taking place. Not necessarily a successful revolution, but then most revolts start small. “It’s disconcerting that there should be so much pressure to be überglamorous,” says Katie Couric, a veteran
anchor of CBS, NBC, ABC, and Yahoo! News, who’s currently partnering with National Geographic on a documentary series about pressing social issues. “I just don’t think turning everyone into a Barbie doll is a good thing. It’s very objectifying to women. I want to look more like the people watching me.” For example, she adds, “I didn’t want to wear a hugely expensive couture Dolce & Gabbana suit because a) I’m frugal and b) I don’t like the message it sends—it wasn’t me.” Mind you, she adds, “I don’t want people vomiting while watching me. I want to look normal.” “Normal” is not exactly what many network executives have in mind for their female on-air news stars, however— and these days the news queens they hire and promote are highly attuned to what is expected. As any stylist will tell you, beautifying the beauties is no easy task, partly because the work itself requires so much more than mere surface enhancement. Into the hands of their embellishers, anchors pour their doubts, fears, and desires: above all, the desire to look not simply better than their competitors but a lot better than nature made them. And to achieve this, they will try almost anything.
“Among the biggest distractions on TV? Hands down, it’s high-shine lip gloss because that’s all you can focus on when you look at the anchor’s face,” explains Kathy Pomerantz, who was head of hair and makeup at Al Jazeera America until it shuttered last year and these days works occasionally on Joy Behar and other network stars. “You look at high-shine gloss, and you think: What did that anchor say just now? If there’s a lot of gloss, I get distracted. A little bit of gloss on the lips is a lot on camera. I call them dancing lips.” (Even Couric admits to this particular failing. “Maybe I went a little heavy on the lip gloss” back in the old days, she concedes. “It was just a habit.”) But as all beauty professionals know: Lip gloss makes TV regulars look younger—and on television, the appearance of youth, at least among women, is always paramount. It is true that Brianna Keilar, CNN’s senior Washington correspondent, wears a touch of peach gloss. But on Fox, the gloss pots seem to runneth over. Janet Flora, a makeup artist for CNBC’s Closing Bell and a frequent makeup artist on the Today show, is among the many who point out: “It appears to my trained eye, Fox News—they simply wear much too much makeup.” Which is a delicate way of putting it. A more candid assessment from a makeup artist who freelances: “I mean, frankly, to me, those smart women on Fox look like bimbos.” Bimboism on the news is a relative novelty. Back in the late ’80s and early ’90s, female anchors on all TV news sets wore demure jackets, matte lipstick, and tame—occasionally severe—hairdos. “I had my hair cut very short, like Winona Ryder,” Couric recalls of one disastrous episode when she went from short to severe. “Then I learned I don’t look like Winona Ryder.” Then along came Fox News. Goodbye, Winona. Hello, extensions. “The Foxification of our look has made things completely different—it seemed to me, coming up at the time, that it was Fox that changed everything: a Victoria’s Secret ethos driving what you look like on TV,” acknowledges newswoman Jami Floyd, who used to appear regularly as a commentator on Fox News shows. “It’s a cable phenomenon. There is a whole department devoted to makeup and hair at Fox, and it didn’t matter which show you were on— the look was consistent. Their people seemed to put a lot of makeup on, and certainly a lot of eyelashes. The women wear skirts and heels.” Even though the F-word never drops from her lips, it’s possible that Couric has been watching Fox News as well: “The super tight, low-cut sleeveless dresses I see on TV news I always feel are more appropriate for a cocktail party,” says Couric. “I don’t want to sound like [Saturday Night Live’s] Church Lady, but a little goes a long way.”
Ask makeup artist Carovillano for the reason behind all this embellishment, and she replies with just two blunt words: “Sex appeal.” And she’s adamant about this. The expectations for male anchors are not as exacting as those for their female counterparts, she observes. “The minute you do one thing wrong, they blast you,” she says. Women “are held to such a high, high standard. And you need to look good, be beautiful, because if you don’t, you get turned off.” Floyd puts it more bluntly: “The TV news business is a tough business to be in, and it can get nasty at times.” Despite its recent management shake-up following allegations of harassment, it is still Fox that sets the ultrapulchritude trend. At Fox, dresses are offered by the network as an option to the anchors, many of whom have lashes that are painstakingly individually applied. “If it’s news, I want to make it pop,” says Carovillano. “That’s what we say [in the business]: You want to make it pop!” And Fox’s competitors follow suit—to an extent. At CNN, for instance, home of some much-vaunted serious news shows, Poppy Harlow wears demure white blouses with high, round necklines and Fox refugee Alisyn Camerota wears modest Nine West heels and muted lip color. But Camerota’s dresses (which she steams herself) are invariably jewel tone, a standard set by her former employer. And the upper lids of many CNN women are lined with strips of dark false eyelashes. Try telling a certain financial journalist to tone down the lip gloss, the thick eyeliner, the fake lashes, and—according to a makeup artist who attempted this years ago—you are likely to hear, “No! This is how I like it!” Or when all pleas for cosmetic restraint fail: “OK, then I’ll do it myself.” Nor are women the only ones pursuing glamour: Many years ago, when appearing as a guest on a news show, I noticed one male anchor (with excellent hair) had his own special brush, a natural-bristle groomer, which was kept pristine inside its own special bag. “The younger women can be the worst. If someone says, ‘I want beachy waved hair and smoky eyes’ one more time—that can send me reeling!” says Flora. “Often it’s because they’re concerned with what’s up-to-the-minute more than what flatters them the most.” A heavy sigh from Flora. “Frankly, I don’t know what beachy waves are,” she manages finally. “And also, how do you define ‘smoky eye’? Do you want a Kardashian smoky eye with so much shadow and makeup? Or a smoky eye with no visual definition at all? I mean, what does ‘I want a smoky eye’ mean?” It means, as the beauty experts of cable news will tell you, that insecurity can rule in the makeup room. Crying jags, fears of being fired or being demoted, the treachery of boyfriends: It all gets unpacked here. “You spend so much time with them. Your face is in their face—an inch away—for
THIS PAGE: JOSEPHINE SCHIELE. OPPOSITE PAGE: PIKEPICTURE/ALAMY STOCK VECTOR.
“I would never have been hired if I were wearing an Afro. So yes, I wore my hair longer and did what I was told.” 40 whole minutes. It’s so intimate!” Carovillano explains. Pomerantz notes, “When you have someone touching your face every day, in your face, they’ll tell you their secrets.” “Everything, everything!” says Pomerantz. “If only I could write a book about it all, it would be a number-one best-seller. Listen, we are literally eye-to-eye with these anchors, in front of their face, creating a look—and they are trusting you. You become their therapist. What’s said in the makeup room stays in the makeup room.” Well, up to a point. “You hear, ‘Why isn’t he texting me? It’s been three days since we saw each other, and not a word,’ ” reports Pomerantz. “I always say, ‘Well what do you think it means? I want to hear what you think.’ ” Not “Well, since he hasn’t texted, he’s obviously not that into you.” That’s definitely not an option. “Forget it! I would never say anything like that to them right before they are about to go on the air,” says Pomerantz. “What you do is you calm them down. You get them distracted.” From long experience, Pomerantz knows exactly what to do about weepy anchors. “When tears are running down their face, you use an airbrush, and you just blot, blot, blot
with a tissue and a sponge—you never wipe,” she explains. “If the anchor is crying, or sweating, you can also pick a small fan out of the makeup cart, and you make them hold it in their lap [to blow air on their face]. Now the eye shadow is going to be a bit difficult when they cry, but a little concealer around the eye works.” Indeed, paradoxical though it may seem, there aren’t all that many enduring crises on television news sets—at least behind the scenes. Hair a mess? Not such a big deal. “Mostly the front of your head is what is seen the most,” says stylist Chris Curich, who jumped from Fox to NBC with Megyn Kelly. “So our number-one priority is to make the front of your head look good.” Bald spot somewhere on a man? “Caboki hair fibers fill it in—the product gives color to the scalp,” says Pomerantz. “And if a woman hasn’t had time to get her roots done, I will take brown mascara and go over the hair growing out and cover the gray with that.” Unwashed hair? “Yes, if a person comes in without having washed their hair, that can be a big mess,” concedes Diane D’Agostino, who works on the hair for Live With Kelly and Ryan. “But then we add dry shampoo to the hair, and that fixes things. You never, ever say, ‘Oh, I can’t do anything with your hair.’ ” If you ask certain news anchors, the charmed beneficiaries of all this care and embellishment, they are of two minds. On the one hand, as one of their number observes, “Much of what my network does is helpful: It’s helpful having someone style you every day, someone saying, ‘Here’s what you can wear’ or ‘Here’s what you cannot wear,’ because it takes out the guesswork. I am grateful to have no fuss and no muss. To have someone saying, ‘Here are the shoes you should wear with that dress; here is the necklace’—that’s great.” On the other hand, all that fuss and care can be infantilizing, not to mention burdensome. Ask Floyd about both the spoken and unspoken aesthetic rules that governed her life before she left television news to become a radio regular (specifically a host of All Things Considered for WNYC New York Public Radio), and her response is swift. “I was tired of my 20 years sitting in the makeup room, getting my hair and makeup done,” she says. Floyd was tired as well of accepting certain network dicta—some obvious, others muted. “I would never have been hired if I were wearing an Afro,” she recalls. “So yes, I wore my hair longer and did what I was told. But for me it was a really difficult decision to straighten it. I have to be honest. You are capitulating to an Anglo-Saxon aesthetic. I don’t deny that.” Well, that was then. “The first thing I did once I left television news for radio was cut my hair,” she continues. And after that, she had even more snipped off. “See, I looked around and I saw President Obama had short hair; Hillary, too.” Also, “I don’t wear my contacts anymore. I wear glasses. I see better, and it’s less glamorous and perhaps more intimidating.” Anything else? “I just dramatically reduced the makeup,” Floyd concludes. “I still wear a little mascara, some tinted sunscreen, and lip gloss. But that’s it.” In other words: another perfectly executed “fuck you.”
SHOPPING GUIDE Cover: Norma Kamali faux-fur coat, $1,995. Normakamali .com. Earrings, price available upon request. Newyorkvintage .com. Table of Contents, page 4: Emilio Pucci georgette top, $2,340. Emilio Pucci stores. Christopher Kane embellished shoes, $1,095. Christopher kane.com. We Love Colors tights, $14. Welovecolors.com. Cover Look, page 12: Norma Kamali faux-fur coat, $1,995. Normakamali.com. Vintage earrings, price available upon request. Newyorkvintage .com. Dolce & Gabbana pearl bra top, price available upon request. Newyorkvintage.com. Thom Browne ostrich-featherand-silk pants, $5,900. Thom Browne, NYC. 212-633-1197. Page 16: Norma Kamali feather jacket, $1,995. Normakamali .com. Alexis Bittar earrings, $215. Alexisbittar.com. Talking Beauty With Keala Settle, page 24: ASOS cotton dress, $32. Asos.com. Hart earrings, $148. Harthagerty.com. Gucci sunglasses, $1,035. Gucci .com. Elements of Style, page 46: Off-White c/o Virgil Abloh lace dress, $1,158, and
bodysuit, $458. Off---white .com. Page 49: Ellery lace dress, $6,495. Ellery.com. Alix lace bodysuit, $298. Alixnyc .com. She Will Be Heard, page 79: Ralph Lauren Collection leather jacket, $4,990. Ralph lauren.com. Norma Kamali embellished nylon spandex bodysuit, $1,175. Normakamali .com. Alexis Bittar earrings, $155. Alexisbittar.com. Page 82: Ralph Lauren Collection leather jacket, $4,990. Ralph lauren.com. Norma Kamali embellished nylon spandex bodysuit, $1,175. Normakamali .com. Alexis Bittar earrings, $155. Alexisbittar.com. Page 85: Vintage earrings, price available upon request. Newyorkvintage.com. Page 86: Dolce & Gabbana pearl bra top, price available upon request. Newyorkvintage.com. Thom Browne ostrich-featherand-silk pants, $5,900. Thom Browne, NYC. 212-633-1197. Neil J. Rodgers leather shoes, $425. Neiljrodgers.com. Page 87: Norma Kamali feather jacket, $1,995. Normakamali .com. Shock Treatment, page 88: Christopher Kane lace jacket, $2,095, and dress,
ALLURE Statement Required by 39 U.S.C. 3685 showing the Ownership, Management and Circulation of ALLURE, published monthly (12 issues) for October 1, 2017. Publication No. 006-904. Annual subscription price $16.00. 1. Location of known office of Publication is One World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. 2. Location of the Headquarters or General Business Offices of the Publisher is One World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. 3. The names and addresses of the Chief Business Officer, Editor and Managing Editor are: Chief Business Officer, Kim Kelleher, One World Trade Center, NY, New York 10007. Editor, Michelle Lee, One World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. Managing Editor, Amanda Meigher, One World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. 4. The owner is: Advance Magazine Publishers Inc., published through its Condé Nast division, One World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. Stockholder: Directly or indirectly through intermediate corporations to the ultimate corporate parent, Advance Publications, Inc., 950 Fingerboard Road, Staten Island, NY 10305. 5. Known bondholders, mortgagees and other security holders owning or holding 1 percent or more of total amount of bonds, mortgages or other securities are: None. 6. Extent and nature of circulation Average No. Copies Single Issue each issue during nearest to preceding 12 months filing date a. Total No. Copies 1,302,911 1,309,621 b. Paid Circulation (1) Mailed Outside-County Paid 1,031,871 1,033,368 Subscriptions Stated on PS Form 3541 (2) Mailed In-County Paid Subscriptions 0 0 Stated on PS Form 3541 (3) Paid Distribution Outside the 35,825 37,516 Mails Including Sales Through Dealers and Carriers, Street Vendors, Counter Sales, and Other Paid Distribution Outside USPS® (4) Distribution by Other Classes 0 0 of Mail Through the USPS c. Total Paid Distribution 1,067,696 1,070,885 d. Free or Nominal Rate Distribution (1) Free or Nominal Rate Outside-County 98,969 108,256 Copies included on PS Form 3541 (2) Free or Nominal Rate In-County 0 0 Copies included on PS Form 3541 (3) Free or Nominal Rate Copies Mailed 0 0 at Other Classes Through the USPS (4) Free or Nominal Rate 8,881 10,481 Distribution Outside the Mail e. Total Free or Nominal Rate Distribution 107,850 118,737 f. Total Distribution 1,175,546 1,189,622 g. Copies not Distributed 127,365 120,000 h. Total 1,302,911 1,309,622 i. Percent Paid 90.83% 90.02% j. Paid Electronic Copies 21,805 21,616 k. Total Paid Print Copies (line 15c) 1,089,501 1,092,501 + Paid Electronic Copies l. Total Print Distribution (Line 15f) 1,197,351 1,211,238 + Paid Electronic Copies m. Percent Paid (Both Print & 90.99% 90.20% Electronic Copies) 7. I certify that all information furnished on this form is true and complete. (Signed) David Geithner, Vice President and Treasurer
ALLURE DECEMBER 2017
$2,895. Christopherkane.com. Pamela Love silver earrings, $300 to $340. Pamelalove .com. Page 90: Molly Goddard lamé dress, $1,049. Nordstrom stores. Pamela Love earrings, $130. Pamelalove.com. Page 91: Valentino lace dress, $5,700. Valentino stores. Mounser earrings, $195. Barneys.com. Page 93: Isa Arfen cotton poplin top, $695. Matchesfashion.com. Alta Ora earring, $200. By special order. Direct-message @alta_ora on Instagram. Castlecliff earrings, price available upon request. Castle cliffnyc.com. Page 94: Stella McCartney viscose dress, $2,950. Neiman Marcus stores. Judith Hendler earrings, $125 to $425. Route 66 West, Palm Springs, California. 760-3226669. Page 95: Marc Jacobs polyester jacket, $2,900. Marc Jacobs stores. Page 97: Prada cotton top, $1,120. Select Prada stores. Lapponia Jewelry silver earrings, $253. Lapponia .com. It Was All a Dream, page 104: Balenciaga satin silk dress, $1,895, and tights, $125. Balenciaga, NYC. 212-328-1671. Page 106: No. 21 silk dress, price available upon request. Numeroventuno.com. Page 107: Araks bra, $78. Araks.com. Elie Saab crepegeorgette-and-lace dress, $6,975. Eliesaab.com. We Love Colors tights, $14. Welove colors.com. Page 109: Comme des Garçons tulle top, price available upon request. Newyorkvintage.com. Gaspar Gloves gloves, $125. Gaspargloves.com.
PHOTOGRAPHERS’ CREDITS How Politics Informed the World of Beauty, page 58, clockwise from top left: Ricky Carioti/The Washington Post via Getty Images; Shannon Stapleton/Reuters; Hannah Choi; Drew Angerer/Getty Images; Will Heath/NBC/NBCU Photo Bank via Getty Images; J. Scott Applewhite/AP Photos. Page 59, clockwise from top left: J. Scott Applewhite/AP Photos; Sølve Sundsbø; Zach Gibson/Getty Images; Grand Lamos IV/FilmMagic; Nicholas Kamm/AFP/Getty Images; Jane Barlow/PA Images via Getty Images. The World’s Most Pampered Woman, page 101, clockwise from top: Marc Piasecki/WireImage; Taylor Hill/ FilmMagic; Venturelli/Getty Images; Dominique Charriau/ WireImage; Rune Hellestad/ Corbis; Jacopo Raule/Getty Images for the Novak Djokovic Foundation; Jun Sato/ WireImage; George Pimentel/ FilmMagic. The Looks Behind the News, page 110, clockwise from top left: Charles Ommanney/Getty Images; Michael Caulfield/WireImage; James Thew/Alamy Stock Photo; Hiroyuki Ito/Getty Images; Lou Rocco/ABC via Getty Images; Charles Ommanney/Getty Images; Carlos Cardetas/Alamy Stock Photo; ABC Photo Archives via Getty Images; Peter Kramer/NBC/NBC NewsWire via Getty Images; NBC NewsWire/ NBC/NBCU Photo Bank via Getty Images; Lucas Jackson/ AP Photo; NBC NewsWire/NBC/ NBCU Photo Bank via Getty Images; CBS via Getty Images.
ALLURE IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT © 2017 CONDÉ NAST. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 27, NO. 12. December 2017 ISSUE. ALLURE (ISSN 1054-7771) is published monthly by Condé Nast, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: Condé Nast, One World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman Emeritus; Robert A. Sauerberg, Jr., President & Chief Executive Officer; David E. Geithner, Chief Financial Officer; Pamela Drucker Mann, Chief Revenue & Marketing Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 123242885-RT0001. POSTMASTER: Send all UAA to CFS (SEE DMM 507.1.5.2); NON-POSTAL AND MILITARY FACILITIES: Send address corrections to ALLURE, P.O. Box 37617, Boone, IA 50037-0617. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to ALLURE, P.O. Box 37617, Boone, IA 50037-0617, call 800-678-1825, or email firstname.lastname@example.org. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to ALLURE Magazine, One World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. For reprints, please email email@example.com or call 717-505-9701, ext 101. For reuse permissions, please email permissions@condenast. com or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at www.allure.com. To subscribe to other Condé Nast magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.condenastdigital.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 37617, Boone, IA 50037-0617 or call 800-678-1825. ALLURE IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ARTWORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ARTWORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY ALLURE IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELFADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.
MY DREAM KIT
Springfield style icon Marge Simpson reveals what’s in her bag of tricks.
Top row, from left: Lady Dye Hair Color in Blue Man Group Blue; Lash Out Mascara; Hiveminds Extra Long Beehive Teasing Comb; Texas Hold ’Em Ups Double Stick Dress Tape. Middle row, from left: Blinky’s Eye Whitening Drops for Extra Large Eyes; Face Riot Face Powder in Canary Yellow; Occasional Lip Lipless Lip Color; Bead Balm; Stiff n’ Lovely Hair Spray Tornado Strength Hold. Bottom row, from left: Necklace by Beadniks in Gumball Red; Snore Ignore Ear Plugs; Hide-a-Flask for Harried Housewives.
THE SIMPSONS™ AND © 2017 TWENTIETH CENTURY FOX FILM CORPORATION. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
illustration by julius preite
Published on Nov 14, 2017