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MENSSTYLE.COM.AU

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74 SUMMER 2017

ESSENTIAL

SMART CASUAL

LOOK THE PART THIS SEASON, FROM SURF TO SOIREES

Summer Reads 1 6 - PA G E SPECIAL

+ WHAT’S THAT HAT ?

SMELL?

CHOOSE THE RIGHT SCENT FOR THE RIGHT OCCASION SION

WE DRIVE VE LD’S THE WORLD’S FASTEST SUV

‘LIKE DANCING WITH A SILVERBACK GORILLA’ ORILLA’

THE BEST NEW STREAMING SHOWS

+

HOW RUSSIA BUILT A PROPAGANDA MACHINE

BY STEALTH

+

MIKE BENNIE’S SLURPTASTIC DRINKS GUIDE

Colin Farrell THE (EX) HELLRAISER’S NEW DAWN...

SUMMER 2017 Issue #74 AUST $I2.50 NZ $I2.50

#TOMMYXTHECHAINSMOKERS

E D I TO R ’ S N OT E W

elcome to our final issue of 2017. Thanks to all those who’ve remained loyal

Men’s Style readers during the year, whether the magazine, at mensstyle.com. au or on our social channels.

It’s been annother eventful year which started with Australia’s Formula One sensation

Daniel Ricciardo on the cover and ends with reformed (self-confessed) Irish party animal Colin Farrell gracing the same space. Personally I think he’s one of the most watchable actors of his generation (In Bruges is a personal fave) and I’d always wanted to put him on a cover. His reviews in The Killing Of A Sacred Deer are so good, now’s as good a time as any.

This issue we’ve also given readers an extended Esquire section which celebrates the

Page 86

best things the US, UK and Italy have given men and thier lifestyles, as well as a long and fascinating read written by Jim Rutenberg on how Russia under Vladimir Putin has created a propaganda apparatus to challenge Western hegemony. The trick? The Russian information machine looks a bit like Fox News, CNN, et al.

The point of the longer sections is that we know this is the time of year when many get some leisure time and can actually savour a good old-fashioned premium men’s magazine like this one. And to you we say, enjoy, relax, and thanks for being with us for another year.

We’ll see you all in 2018.

MICHAEL PICKERING, Editor

Page 102

FEEDBACK

IT’S TIME

be spelt Vain-erchuk as clearly the

Well done on another great issue

guy has major tickets on himself.

[Spring, 2017]. I’ve been with the

It’s not that I disgreed with a lot of

magazine since it launched (have all

what he said about the future of

but two copies!), back when men

social media and the Internet, but

debated weighty issues like the pros

to pretend they’re his original and

and cons of wearing loafers with

unique insights is a bit rich. Plenty

range of modern classics for men,

tassels. These days it’s all about

of others have said the same much

women and boys, as well as the

lace-ups with or without socks and

earlier. Nevertheless, I enjoyed the

new Lil Yachty collection (left),

grooming tricks to ensure smooth

read.

available at nautica.com.au.

looks but not too shiny a face. I think

WINNER Thanks to our good friends at Nautica, Craig Kingston receives a $750 wardrobe from the global lifestyle brand. Select from a

Gary Thomas, via e-mail

Gough Whitlam put it best when, with moisturiser in hand, he told the

WHAT A PITTI

nation to “maintain the age”.

Straight up, you’ll never find me

Thanks Men’s Style, from a dedicated true believer.

Craig Kingston, Queens Park, NSW GARY ON GARY

men’s style

and boater hanging out with the peacocks at Pitti Uomo [Spring, 2017] but I do enjoy checking out the parade via your Street Seen page. Do you think these guys work?

Gary Vaynerchuk sounds like an

Must take some of them half a day

interesting dude [Spring 2018]...

to get ready.

though perhaps his surname should

10

in a lime or fuchsia-coloured suit

J. Kelly, Nth Melbourne, Vic

SEND FEEDBACK TO OUR EMAIL ADDRESS: mensstyle@bauermedia.com.au Please include your contact details,including phone number and address. Letters to Feedback may be edited due to space restrictions.

Issue 74

MENSSTYLE.COM.AU

ESSENTIAL

SMART CASUAL

Summer 2017

LOOK THE PART THIS SEASON, FROM SURF TO SOIREES

WHAT’S THAT HAT ?

SMELL?

CHOOSE THE RIGHT SCENT FOR THE SION RIGHT OCCASION

Editor Michael Pickering mpickering@bauer-media.com.au Art Director Chris Andrew

WE DRIVE VE THE WORLD’S LD’S FASTEST SUV

‘LIKE DANCING WITH A ORILLA’ SILVERBACK GORILLA’

Su S Summer Reads R 1 6 - PA G E SPECIAL

+ THE BEST NEW STREAMING SHOWS

+

HOW RUSSIA BUILT A PROPAGANDA MACHINE

BY STEALTH

+

MIKE BENNIE’S SLURPTASTIC DRINKS GUIDE

Colin Farrell THE (EX) HELLRAISER’S NEW DAWN...

Fashion Director Kim Payne Grooming Editor Elisabeth King

Contributing Writers Michael Adams, Mike Bennie, Jim Rutenberg, Jez Spinks, John von Arnim, Ash Westerman, Rod Yates

ON THE COVER Colin Farrell MICHAEL MULLER/ C P I SY N D I CAT I O N / HEADPRESS

Contributing Photographers/Illustrators Tane Coffin, Ming Nomchong, Lee Oliveira, Adrian Price

Editorial Co-ordinator Harry Roberts Production Controller Christopher Clear

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Commercial Manager, Consumer Anastasia Sheshukova General Manager, Fashion, Luxury, Food & Home Fiorella Di Santo CEO Paul Dykzeul Men’s Style Australia is published by Bauer Media Pty Ltd, ABN 18 053 273 546, 54 Park Street, Sydney, NSW 2000. © 2017. All rights reserved. Phone (02) 9282 8000. Fax (02) 9263 9703. Melbourne: Level 7, 717 Bourke St, Docklands Vic 3008. Phone (03) 9823 6333. Fax (03) 9823 6300. Printed by PMP Print, 31 Heathcote Rd, Moorebank, NSW 2170. Men’s Style Australia accepts no responsibility for loss of or damage to unsolicited contributions. For subscription inquiries visit www.magshop.com.au, email magshop@magshop.com.au or telephone 136 116 between 8am and 6pm (EST) Monday to Friday. Alternatively, post requests to Magshop, GPO Box 5252, Sydney, NSW 2000.

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CONTENTS XMAS GIFT GUIDE

summer 2017 ~ issue 74

Page 58

PRIORITY MALE 18

38

COMPENDIUM

BOOKS

A round-up of things we liked, like and look forward to

Thee aweso awesomee reads eads you may ay have missed this year

20 SCHMOOZING

Ferrari/Hublot, Lardini, Seiko and the BMW Caulfield Cup 28 OBJECT OF DESIRE

Harley-Davidson’s famouss Fat Boy gains some muscle 30 STREET SEEN

Lee Oliveira files from Milano, where buttons remain undone 32 ICONS OF STYLE

That Robert Redford was one smooth dresser, back in the day

40 FILM

Michael Adams on the flicks to keep an eye out for in 2018 42 TRAVEL

Boutique South Australia and the Intercontinental Double Bay 46 MOTORING

Range Rover Velar, Kia Stinger and the fastest SUV in the world, the Jeep Trackhawk

ON TREND ND

52

34 GUIDE TO G SUMMER DRINKING

FOOD + DRINK

60

Recipe from The Wilmot, Primus Hotel, Sydney

GET THE LOOK

56 WELLBEING

Become more p productive

70 FRAGRANCES

Drinks expert Mike Benniee on the beers, wines, saisons and on more to drink this season

Elisabeth King on the E rright scent to wear for the right occasion

36

14

Looks from Brooks Brothers, Lacoste, MJ Bale, Nautica and The Academy Brand

MUSIC

72

Rod Yates on 2017’s highlights ghts and lowlights in toons

GROOMING

men’s style

Page 46

Guard against the Summer sun

7 74 BRANDS

Our chat with Luigi Lardini, founder of luxury Italian menswear brand Lardini 76

SWING TAGS

The latest menswear retail news from here and overseas

Available online at no other department stores.

CONTENTS Big Black Book from

FEATURES

~ turn to p86

FASHION

102 PEAK OF HIS POWERS

Colin Farrell has left hellraising behind and is getting better with age, as he proves in The Killing Of A Sacred Deer

126 SUMMER STREAMING

Choice is vast on the various online streaming services so we’ve edited the offering for you to maximise viewing pleasure in your holidays

146

LONG HOT SUMMER

How Russia has built a modern-day proganda machine to debunk the West

Loose yet stylish casual looks for beach, surf and chilling out over the warmer months

WATCHES

TRUE COLOURS

79 The importance of finishing plus new releases from a variety of brands

16

112

THE GREAT DISRUPTION

men’s style

134 From colour blocking to mixing it up with pattern and print, Kim Payne puts together the hues for the season

PRlORlTY MALE

SUMMER COMPENDIUM Stuff we liked, noticed and adored this month.

Stay T h e C h e n ~ Famous for its art-themed properties such as The Olsen, The Cullen and The Blackman closer to Melbourne CBD, Art Series Hotel Group now opens its eighth “art” hotel, this time in suburban Box Hill, Melbourne. Named after Chinese Australian artist Zhong Chen, the hotel will reflect his persona and be dedicated to the ‘Art of Joyful Journeys’. Opening on November 22, rooftop drinks with this view of Melbourne will be popular. artserieshotels.com.au

18

men’s style

Watch P h a n t o m T h r e a d ~ Said to be the great Daniel Day-Lewis’ last ever film, this Paul Thomas Anderson-directed story will be out February 1, 2018. Day-Lewis plays dressmaker to the elite Reynolds Woodcock, who moves in a controlled way through high society until a young, strongwilled woman, Alma (Vicky Krieps), comes into his life as both lover and muse, disrupting his carefully tailored existence.

Listen ~ Every weekend from Jan 26-March 10, 2018, the popular Zoo Twilights music performances return to Melbourne Zoo. Highlights of this program include Melbourne faves Cat Empire (Sun, Feb 4), Ben Folds (Sat, Feb 17), and musical genius Neil Finn playing with his son Liam (Fri, Feb 23). The Sunnyboys, The Preatures and Kate Miller-Heidke will also appear.

Z o o Tw i l i g h t s a t M e l b o u r n e Z o o

Watch C r i c ke t e r M i t c h e l l S t a r c i n Va n H e u s e n ~ The tall left-arm fast bowler from Sydney will be one of Australia’s key men when the Ashes kick off against England on November 23. Starc recently ditched the whites to appear in Van n Heusen’s 2017 Mentors campaign, inspiring Australian men alongsidee lawyer Deng Adut, swimmer Jamess Magnussen, Paralympian Kurt Fearnley, snowboarder Scotty James es and others with his story of toil and d perserverance. vanheusen.com.au

zootwilights.org.au

Drink P e n f o l d s g 3 ~ If Penfolds Grange is deservedly one of the most famous wines in the world, what are we to make of its release of g3, a blend of three Grange vintages spanning seven years (2008, 2014 and 2014)? Penfolds ‘house style’ “distilled”, says Chief Winemaker Peter Gago. “It is a blend where each individual vintage selected delivers a depth of character and flavour honouring our flagship Grange”. One thousand bottles only. penfolds.com

Party H e n r y D e a n e a t Pa l i s a d e H o t e l ~ Spread across the top two floors of Sydney's historic and iconic Palisade Hotel, Henry Deane is the ideal 'occasion' cocktail lounge with its amazing views of Sydney Harbour. Summer cocktails include Sun-Kissed Spritz (Plymouth gin, Regal Rogue White, Suze, honey, basil, soda) and No Way Frosé (Beluga vodka, Château Riotor Rosè, strawberry, verjuice) while kingfish and coconut with taro crisps is a menu stand-out. hotelpalisade.com.au/henrydeane

men’s style

19

PRlORlTY MALE

Michael Clarke.

SCHMOOZING

Jarrod Scott.

Ferrari and Hublot at the Motorclassica event.

October 2017, Melbourne

ferrari & hublot As part of the week-long celebration of its 70th anniversary, Ferrari joined with its watch partner Hublot to stage a red-themed cocktail party at Melbourne’s Docklands with Tim Schenken – Australia’s only ever Ferrari factory driver – as special guest. Model Jarrod Scott also helped Ferrrari unveil LaFerrari Aperta, air-freighted in for the night. A display showcased Hublot’s special timepieces created with Ferrari, including this year’s amazing Techframe Tourbillon Chrono.

Andrew McUtchen and Joel Ruiz.

Joel Ruiz, Michael Pickering and Andrew McUtchen.

20

men’s style

Hublot Big Bang Ferrari.

Jarrod Scott and Herb Appleroth.

Tim Schenken.

One of the most dynamic namic personalities of our time, she has as elevated her style to the level of performance ar t. Whether as a song writer, singer, actor or fashion ashion icon, her dynamism is without peer.

But she didn’t set out ut to be one of a kind. She wass born this way. Some are born n to follow.

Others are #BornToDare ToDare

BLACK BAY

LADY GAGA

PRlORlTY MALE

SCHMOOZING

Roberto Malizia, Larry Lim and Shaun Birley.

Reid Butler.

October 2017, Sydney

Clint Amos.

Sept 2017, Melbourne

lardini seiko For more on the beautiful bespoke menswear brand from Italy, read our brand story on Lardini on page 74 of this issue. To celebrate Lardini’s three-year exclusive partnership with Australia’s luxury department store, Harrolds, founder Luigi Lardini and his brother Andrea travelled from Italy for an Italianthemed lunch at Bondi Icebergs attended by Harrolds’ Mary Poulakis and Rob Ferris, media and menswear influencers.

Seiko Australia unveiled the opening of its first boutique in Melbourne in mid-September. To celebrate the occasion, Seiko brought three watchmaking wonders down under for three days only – the Fugaku Timepiece valued at $600,000, the $400,000 Credor Spring Drive Minute Repeater as well as the Eichi ll valued at $61,000. The boutique will maintain a resident watchmaker to assist customers with technical information.

The famous fabric flower.

Luigi Lardini.

22

men’s style

Kazuyoshi Matsunaga and Toru Koizumi.

Andrea Lardini.

Alicia Muling.

Andrew Daddo.

PRlORlTY MALE

SCHMOOZING

Natalie Crocker and Adam Goodes.

October 2017, Melbourne

bmw caulfield cup Jesinta Franklin.

Sam Wood.

The first of the big Spring racing meets in Melbourne, BMW Caulfield Cup day is the chance for the celeb pack to flex their fashion arms. Guests including actress Rachael Taylor, David Jones ambassadors Jesinta Franklin and Jess Gomes, Adam Goodes, Chris and Rebecca Judd, and The Bachelorr’s Matthew Johnson did their best in the E.P & L.P Deck and Caulfield Lounge, the Moët & Chandon Lawn, EZARD restaurant in the Heath Enclosure and Stella Artois MRC Young Members precincts on a memorable day.

Anna Heinrich and Tim Robards.

Chris and Rebecca Judd.

24

men’s style

Rachael Taylor.

Anthony Callea.

Rachael Finch.

PRlORlTY MALE

WOMEN

SUN’S OUT...

TIME TO TAN (SENSIBLY) AND TAKE SOME TIME AWAY, JUST AS THIS GODDESS IS DOING...

T

he only thing missing from this perfectly Summery photo of a beautiful woman enjoying the weather is her copy of this issue of Men’s Style as she delves into all the big holiday reads we’ve packed it with. And isn’t she just the ideal inspiration for the warmer season upon us? Get on that towel with the sunscreen and the sunnies and let’s do some proper time out!

26

men’s style

6WRFNLVW HQTXLULHV

PRlORlTY MALE

OBJECT OF DESIRE

28

men’s style

FAT BOY GETS FIT HARLEY-DAVIDSON’S LEGENDARY FAT BOY BIKE DEVELOPS A MORE MUSCLY PERSONA.

T

he latest version of Harley-Davidson’s ever popular Fat Boy motorcycle sort of makes a lie of that adjective due to an altogether tougher, more muscular styling.

Most noticeably that begins with the “steamroller stance” of the front end, where solid-disc Lakester wheels support the widest front tyre ever affixed to a Harley-Davidson, at 160mm.

Combined with a 240mm rear tyre, it maintains that classic Harley-Davidson silhouette.

The impression of muscularity is also achieved by an overall 16kg weight reduction on the previous Fat Boy model, thanks to a lighter, stiffer frame. New suspension technology provides the performance of a racing-style cartridge fork and also reduces weight.

A modern-day interpretation of the bike’s classic headlight nacelle features signature LED forward lighting which provides greater visibility during a night ride.

The Milwaukee-Eight Big Twin Engine delivers crisp throttle response and the characteristic rumble that turns heads and focuses eyes as you cruise down any main drag. This engine is available in 107 or optional 114 displacements.

Satin chrome finishes on engine parts and exhaust not only anchor the bike in the grand traditions of the brand but conversely, also make it look even more contemporary and streamlined.

Australian pricing for the HarleyDavidson Fat Boy begins at $30,995, or $32,495 rideaway. harley-davidson.com/content/h-d/ en_AU/home.html

men’s style

29

PRlORlTY MALE

STREET SEEN

MILAN

UNBUTTONED BREEZY AND LOOSE IS THE LOOK DU JOUR.

with

LEE OLIVEIRA leeoliveira.com

30

men’s style

T

hese pictures from Milan feature a number of the year’s menswear trends brought to life on the streets of the fashion capital.

Unbuttoned shirts over a singlet or tee were prominent on catwalks during fashion weeks this year and continued outside the venues for that cool but casual look.

Slides and futuristic trainers are an essential part of the highend athleisure look, along with pants you could potentially go skateboarding in and then wear to cocktails afterwards.

Statement graphics, logos, retro art – any or all of the above are

a de rigueur part of the upmarket smart casual we see here.

On the opposite page are a few looks from Street Seens taken from earlier issues this year.

The take-out? There is no discernible thread running through mesnwear trends at the moment.

In fact, it’s something of a stylistic free-for-all with a number of competing movements at work for the attention of the male consumer.

Which ain’t a bad thing, per se...

Visit mensstyle.com.au during the hiatus until our Autumn 2018 issue for regular updates on menswear news and trends. leeoliveira.com

BEST OF STREET ET SCENE 2017

AUTUMN }

{ SPRING

* men’s s style

31

PRlORlTY MALE

ICONS OF STYLE

GOLDEN BOY Robert Redford

ACHIEVED AN ESTEEMED CAREER AS ACTOR, WRITER, DIRECTOR, PRODUCER,

ENVIRONMENTALIST… AND POSTERBOY OF CLASSIC, COOL YET CONTEMPORARY MEN’S DRESSING.

N

ow into his 80s, Robert Redford is not only a 20th Century screen icon but an archetype of modern American smart casual dressing.

Many of his most famous style moments are to be found in what he wore for some of his most memorable roles – the 1930s-inspired jaunty flat cap and pinstripes he wore as Johnny Hooker in The Sting (1973), the elegant cream suit (designed by Ralph Lauren, no less) and brylcreemed hair of Jay Gatsby in The Great Gatsby (1974), the effortlessly cool sports coat and jacket worn by Joseph Turner in Three Days of The Condor (1975) and the rumpled but pitch-perfect corduroy suit he sported playing groundbreaking journo Bob

32

men’s style

on select projects, producing, directing and Woodward in All The President’s Men (1976).

In short, Redford looks good in anything. starting the now world-renowned Sundance And while the 1970s was his stylistic high Film Festival for independent film-makers. point, Redford continued to portray an Redford’s style is quintessentially American, “I just threw this on” combination of classic taking the hallmarks and heritage of preppy, and contemporary into the 1980s. college dressing and melding it While the photographic record would with a more rugged, Western style Redford’s style is suggest he had a few dodgy moments rooted in denim. He’s a master of quintessentially during the era of power suits teamed separates – the tonal blazer over a American. with wildly patterned ties, on screen striped shirt with paler pants, the he continued to impress, as Roy denim jacket with a different shade Hobbs in baseball flick The Natural (1984) of trousers. It’s never groundbreaking, but it and the enigmatic Denys opposite Meryl works. Like the movies he’s made, Redford’s Streep in Out Of Africa (1985). style is direct and cuts to the chase, and Of course this decade coincided with most men could take a note for life from his Redford’s gradual retreat from acting to focus method.

PRlORlTY MALE

DRINKS

SUMMER DRINKING GUIDE Mike Bennie GETS THE PARTY STARTED WITH SOME FAVOURITE THIRSTSLAKING BEVERAGES FOR IMBIBING UNDER THE BEACH UMBRELLA, ON THE DECK, AT THE CRICKET, UNDER THE WATER, ETC.

S

ummer is my favourite time of year to be out and about sharing a drink – an Esky at an Antarctic-like temperature to enjoy truly refreshing styles of beverage that offer vitality, drinkability and general seasonal cheer.

This season is the perfect time to see the new character of a recent wine vintage. Fermentation is over, wines have rested through winter, and it’s a popular time for winemakers to bottle and release their fresh, young expressions from the previous harvest.

Keep a keen eye on “Spring releases” for where to buy these vibrant styles.

Amongst these early releases there are rosés, light, aromatic white wines

34

men’s style

and fresh-feeling reds that need a chill to bring them alive. Increasingly, an interesting array of alternative wine products like vermouth or aromatised wines are also released for the warmer months. One of my summer drinks is dry vermouth poured over cubed ice with various citrus fruit skins grated into the glass – the result is a wildly fragrant, tangy, refreshing drink.

Alongside wines and vermouths, it’s also a great time of year to be drinking frisky, fresh-feeling fruit beers, tangy, sour-feeling saisons and cider, which despite how fancy it sounds, is perfect just over ice. Lagers and pilsners might get frowned upon by the beer cognoscenti, but their suitability for a

‘session’ makes them far more ideal for crushing thirst on warmer days than hop monstered beers of fruity aroma and sickly texture.

Ask any bartender worth their salt what the near future of cocktails holds and most will quickly respond: “Spritzes”. Adding a light spirit to a shrub or house-made soda, garnishing with something savoury and consuming it in your longest, frostiest glass, will be a feature this summer.

If you’re swinging by my backyard over the festive season, I’m loving Australian gin, a dash of vermouth, a splash of sour peach cordial and a sprig of rosemary, built over ice, as the ideal summer welcome drink.

TRY THESE

MAIDENII SPRITZ (Victoria, $40, 750ml)

WILDFLOWER GOLD AUSTRALIAN WILD ALE (Marrickville, NSW, $22, 750ml)

LA VIOLETTA YE-YE POSE 2017 (Great Southern, WA, $32, 750ml)

This drink couldn’t be more en

Although I’m a dyed-in-the-wool

Most people think rosé isn’t very

vogue, combining Australian

drinker of wild ferment and sour

serious. Some people know La

‘pet nat’ (petillant naturel, or

beers, I’m trying to convert some

Violetta’s winemaker, Andrew

naturally sparkling wine), with a

of my uninitiated friends into the

Hoadley, is definitely not serious.

splash of Australian vermouth.

joys of these more esoteric styles

But more than ever, pink wine

The resulting Ready To Drink

this summer. This one, made by

is actually quite serious. This

is bristling with refreshment

a brilliant, solo brewer, is bone

excellent example is the colour

factor, a one-stop shop for

dry but shows so much fine

of a slapped cheek and delivers

poolside drinking. Just add ice

detail in exotic fruit, spice, citrus

brisk, crisp strawberry and rose

and a tall glass. It’s tangy, lightly

characters and a tart-tangy

water flavours with a crisp,

tart and wholly delicious, like an

finish. In some respects, it’s more

revitalising finish. It’s worth the

Aperol Spritz, only funkier.

a grain wine than beer, but wholly

extra bucks for the liveliness, light

brilliant for it.

savoury character and general ease of drinking. Class act.

CHINATI VERGANO AMERICANO (Piedmont, Italy, $45, 750ml)

RICCA TERRA VINTNERS BRONCO BUSTER 2017 (Riverland, SA, $25, 750ml)

Arguably one of the world’s

From one of Australia’s most

greatest vermouths, the

adventurous and dedicated

Vergano ‘Americano’ is made

grape growers comes this

Sailors Grave Brewing is just

to a secret family recipe by

eponymous wine project

about my favourite brewer at the

a legendary family in Italy’s

celebrating a diversity of styles,

moment – a cottage industry-like

Piedmont wine region. This

but with an eye on affordable,

set-up and a huge creative leash.

should be quaffed chilled, over

smashable drops. This is an

The resulting beers are made

crushed ice with a big wedge of

unusual blend of vermentino,

with heart, judicious flavour,

blood orange, and with gusto.

fiano, greco and arinto grape

and a massive chug factor. This

It’s got a sweetness to it but

varieties, resulting in a green

one offers up some sour, tangy

also a refreshing, alpine herb

melon-meets-nashi-pear-

freshness with just a hint of fruit

kick. The chalky finish sets your

meets-tonic-water white wine

sweetness – a wildly drinkable, all

palate up for each, energising

of massively high skol factor,

day, summer thirst crusher.

sip.

with a touch of class and unique personality. Excellent with salads

CHRISTOPHE ET FILS PETIT CHABLIS 2016 (Chablis, France, $31, 750ml) Chablis has a bit of an old person connotation – cask

and barbecues.

POOLSIDE

BY TOMMY RUFF 2017 (Barossa Valley, SA, $35, 750ml)

SAILORS GRAVE BREWING GRAPEFRUIT & MARIGOLD SAISON (Victoria, $6, 355ml can)

SPARKKE CHANGE THE DATE PILSNER (Australia, $5.50, 375ml can) A team of female brewers bring this bright, enlivening summer ale to life – not only is there a pointed political message on

wines, Bohemian crystal decanters and the like – but

One of Earth’s most revitalising,

the can but the contents come

it couldn’t be further from the

energising, slurpable reds.

from some of Australia’s most

truth when you consider the

This is Barossa shiraz at its

exciting brewing talent. It’s a

electric acidity and mineral-

polar opposite, with an almost

lightly hopped, dryer style, though

charged wines that result from

transparent, ethereal lightness,

there’s a fruity edge which

chardonnay grown in this region.

built for drinking chilled, young

makes it more interesting than

Chablis is pretty much my go-to

and in the sunshine. Expect

you’d expect. Mid-strength, and

for brilliant, thirst-crushing white

watermelon juice, rose petals,

highly drinkable, it’s a great can

wines. This one, from a great

sweet spice in perfume and

for guzzling while watching the

winegrower, is bristling with

flavours. The palate is crunchy

Ashes, or similar.

freshness and vitality. Amazing

textured, like cold cellophane.

with a bucket of prawns.

The wine’s name says it all.

men’s style

35

PRlORlTY MALE

MUSIC Trump Made Music Rage Again

WHAT A RIDE Rod Yates CELEBRATES THE YEAR’S MUSICAL HIGHLIGHTS … AND TAKES A QUICK LOOK AT WHAT AWAITS IN 2018, TOO.

Oils Is Oils On February 17, Midnight Oil held a press conference on Sydney Harbour to announce they were reforming and embarking on a world tour, their first since splitting in 2002. Of the more than 50 gigs they played this year, few could have topped their warm-up at Selina’s, the Sydney beer barn they ruled in their heyday and where in April, they once again proved their might. None of the members are publicly committing to plans past this year, but making a new album would surely be less painful than serving under Kevin Rudd.

Peter Garrett.

Roger Waters’ concert.

The Vinyl Revolution Continued 2016 was the biggest selling year for vinyl since the 1980s – until, that is, 2017, when numbers continued to rise thanks in no small part to the 50th anniversary edition of the Beatles’ Sgt Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band, the topselling record of the year. Overall vinyl sales in 2017 are expected to top 10 million. In a world of convenience and shrinking attention spans, it’s an oddly comforting trend. As for how many people actually listened to the vinyl they bought? Well, let’s not ruin a feel-good story with details.

Father John Misty’s Acid Attack In April, the man known as Josh Tillman released one of the year’s best records in Pure Comedy. Somehow he managed to do this while taking a micro dose of acid every day to deal with anxiety. Mercifully he stayed clear of the brown stuff.

One Direction Are Better in Separate Directions

Harry Styles.

Well, at least one of them is. In May Harry is debut self-titled solo album, Styles released his rld shocking the world by not being crap. In fact, it ty great, Styles proving himself was actually pretty ature a surprisingly mature songwriter, announcing th a brainless pop hit but an his arrival not with ute-40-second earnest five-minute-40-second ballad called es”.”

“Sign of the Times”.

An Antidote e to Terro Terror or The death of 23 people – som some me of them ana Grande’ ’s concert in children – at Ariana Grande’s May 22nd wa as one of 2017’s Manchester on was One Love be enefi low points. The benefit concert in y weeks late er (headlined by the same city only later how healing g music can be.

Grande) proved ught Liam Gallagher G and Hell, it even brought Martin toge ether to duet on Coldplay’s Chris together ever”, thawin ng a relationship Oasis’s “Live Forever”, thawing ars ago whe en Gallagher that first froze years when n as a “pot plant”. p referred to Martin

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Fiona Apple’s “Tiny Hands” was only a minute long, but contained the refrain “We don’t want your tiny hands anywhere near our underpants”; Billy Bragg re-jigged Dylan’s “The Times Are A Changin’” into “The Times Are A Changin’ Back”, and released a minialbum called Bridges Not Walls that was his “way of trying to make sense of what’s going on”; former Pink Floyd man Roger Waters embarked on a U.S tour, his show featuring projections of Trump in brightly coloured lipstick, a Ku Klux Klan hood and as a pig; West Coast rappers YG and Nipsey Hussle released “FDT (Fuck Donald Trump)”; while three quarters of Rage Against the Machine teamed up with Cypress Hill’s B-Real and Public Enemy’s Chuck D in Prophets of Rage and released a self-titled album that urged listeners to “burn that fucking flag”.

Aussies Stormed The Charts Alex the Astronaut.

It was a good year for Aussies on the charts, with more than a third of the number one albums belonging to local artists. Take a bow Kasey Chambers (Dragonfly), Dune Rats (The Kids Will Know It’s Bullshit), Busby Marou (Postcards From the Shell House), the Waifs (Ironbark), Bliss n Eso (Off the Grid), Paul Kelly (Life is Fine, his first ever Number One album in 36 years!), Gang of Youths (Go Farther in Lightness) and – surely a recount is in order? – Anthony Callea. Each spent a week in the top spot, and if it wasn’t for that pesky Ed Sheeran probably would have enjoyed a longer tenure.

The Future Is Female When considering the Australian breakout stars of 2017, the women are leading the way.

Sydney songwriter Alex the Astronaut received a glowing endorsement from Sir Elton John for her single “Not Worth Hiding”; Melbourne’s

Liam Gallagher – and his mouth – have had a big year.

Don’t Call It A Comeback…

Tash Sultana sold out shows in America, Europe and the UK before returning home to headline venues such as Sydney’s 5,000-seat Hordern Pavilion, all without a debut album to her name; Alex Lahey (I Love You Like a Brother), Meg Mac (Low Blows), Caiti Baker (Zinc), Vera Blue (Perennial), All Our Exes Live In Texas (When We Fall) and Ecca Vandal (self-titled) released some of the year’s best albums; while Perth’s Stella Donnelly took out the inaugural $25,000 Levi’s Music Prize at Brisbane’s annual music conference Bigsound.

Actually, you can if you want. 2017 saw some acts return from the wilderness with albums that justified their reputations. We’re looking at you Gorillaz (Humanz), LCD Soundsystem (American Dream), At the Drive In (Interalia), Fleet Foxes (Crack-Up), Slowdive (Slowdive) and Broken Social Scene (Hug of Thunder).

There Were Some Cracking Albums In addition to the records listed in this feature, here are some of 2017’s other releases that are worth your time: I See You by the XX; Near to the Wild Heart of Life by Japandroids; After the Party by the Menzingers; Prisoner

by Ryan Adams; Semper Femina by Laura Marling; More Scared of You Than You Are Of Me by The Smith Street Band; DAMN.

by Kendrick Lamar; Melodrama by Lorde; Villains by Queens of the Stone Age; Sleep Well Beast by The National; Colors by Beck; and Messeduction by St. Vincent.

Liam Gallagher’s Return Let’s face it: music needs Liam Gallagher.

In an age of media-trained pop starlets too afraid of offending their own shadow, in waltzes Gallagher Jnr. with a damned fine solo album in As You Were, throwing verbal haymakers like he’s still the biggest rock star on the planet. His brother Noel remains a steady target: “That kid’s a fucking twat,” he told Rolling Stone. “He’s a prick, he’s turned into the middle class… The way he does Oasis songs it’s like someone’s sucked all the fucking life out of it.” So there.

Gone But Not Forgotten

For a code that specialises in PR nightmares, having Macklemore perform same sex anthem ‘Same Love’ ahead of this year’s NRL grand final was a stroke of genius.

Pre-Game Entertainment Can Mean Something

Macklemore.

Remember when Meat Loaf sang so out of tune at the 2011 AFL Grand Final he was almost charged with bringing the game into disrepute? And that time at the NRL final in 2002 when Billy Idol rode a frickin’ hovercraft to the stage, only for the power to go out when he got there? Amazingly, 2017 proved it’s even better when things actually go to plan. For a code that seemingly specialises in PR nightmares, the NRL having Macklemore perform same sex anthem “Same Love” ahead of this year’s grand final was a stroke of genius. Afterwards the rapper tweeted: “Performing ‘Same Love’ at the #NRLGF was one of the greatest honors of my career. Thank you @NRL for the opportunity & supporting equality.”

Somewhere in his cave, Tony Abbott was squirming.

Chris Cornell.

When the clocked ticked midnight and 2016 gave way to 2017, we hoped we’d bid farewell to music’s anus horibilis – what else could you call a year that claimed David Bowie, Prince, George Michael, Glenn Frey, Leonard Cohen et al? Sadly, the Grim Reaper wasn’t finished.

At the time of print, 2017 has seen giants such as Chuck Berry, Soundgarden’s Chris Cornell, Linkin Park’s Chester Bennington, Glen Campbell, Tom Petty, J. Geils, Gregg Allman, indigenous singer-songwriter Dr. G Yunupingu, Husker Du’s Grant Hart and soul sensation Charles Bradley, to name only a few, all breathe their last. Vale.

WHAT’S AHEAD IN 2018?

Expect to see Vance Joy ruling the world when he releases his second album, with first single “Lay It On Me” already platinum. And could rumours of a new Guns N’Roses album really be true? The summer months will bring a slew of international artists to our shores, starting with Foo Fighters in January (supported by Weezer) and the Modfather himself, Paul Weller. Roger Waters will be here a month later. The Sydney Opera House Forecourt will witness gigs by The National and Sam Smith, while Laneway Festival will see the likes of Wolf Alice, Father John Misty, Slowdive, The War On Drugs and Anderson .Paak (to name only a few) careening around the country. And with Taylor Swift and U2 releasing albums in November and December respectively, no doubt they’ll be knocking on our door too.

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BOOKS

READS OF THE YEAR LIFE’S BUSY, AND YOU MAY NOT HAVE GOT TO READ ALL THE GOOD STUFF RELEASED IN 2017. HERE ARE SOME HOLIDAY STARTERS…

1.

2.

3.

3.

4.

5.

1 LINCOLN IN THE BARDO, by George Saunders

The winner of this year’s Man Booker Prize, the most prestigious award in fiction writing, Lincoln In The Bardo is Saunders first novel after a number of acclaimed short story collections.

Set at the outset of the American Civil War, it takes as its starting point the sickness and death of President Abraham Lincoln’s 11-year-old son Willie, and the President’s subsequent grief. What follows thereafter is a sometimes supernatural rendering of Willie’s post-life, trapped in a transitional realm – the “bardo”.

Told in multiple voices, the language and its rhythm are at first hard to comprehend but slowly, Saunders mastery of his method has drawn you into the shadow world of spirits and unsettled souls.

2 CITY OF CROWS,

by Chris Womersley

Australian writer Womersley sets his novel in 17th Century Paris, where the Plague has already claimed three children of widow Charlotte Picot.

She decides to flee to the countryside but on the road, her remaining child, Nicholas, is taken by slavers and she must make a deal with a woman claiming to be a witch in order to get help.

As in some of Womersley’s other work such as Bereft, the intersection of reality, magic and the occult is not always clear in a Gothic-minded, highly engrossing work.

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3 FIRST PERSON,

by Richard Flanagan The first novel from the Tasmanian writer since he won the Man Booker prize in 2014 for The Narrow Road To The Deep North, First Person tells the story of penniless young writer, Kif Kehlmann, who is hired to ghost write the memoir of a notorious con man and corporate criminal, Siegfried Heidl.

The germ of the story comes from Flanagan’s own experience as a struggling writer back in 1991, when he was approached by a publisher to ghost write the memoir of notorious fraudster John Friedrich. Where truth and fiction diverge is at the heart of the story.

4 MEN WITHOUT WOMEN,

by Haruki Murakami

One of Japan’s leading literary lights, Murakami examines modern

masculinity in seven stories which feature lonely hearts and late-night bars, baseball and the Beatles.

While outwardly stoic, Marukami’s men are lonely, their predicaments heightened by an emotional disconnection from the women around them. Without judgment, Marukami masterfully sheds light on the interior logics and psychological states of his protaganists, told with a wry and understated humour.

5 THE GOLDEN HOUSE,

by Salman Rushdie

A novel set in New York, spanning the election of Barack Obama as US President through eight more years until a garish figure called ‘The Joker’ is about to take the top job.

Wonder who he’s based on?

The story is narrated by Rene Unterlinden as he observes the world of his neighbours, the somewhat mysterious Golden family

– Nero, the wealthy patriarch, and his three sons. The travails of Nero and the boys provide the impetus of the novel, as each remakes or searches for identity, with the backgrounded political landscape making it clear America is also in the midst of a search for identity.

6 THE THINGS THAT MAKE US, by Nick Riewoldt

Recently retired after a stellar career in the AFL that saw him play more than 300 games with St Kilda in the top flight, Nick Riewoldt ended his career acknowledged as one of the toughest and most talented forwards to play the game.

Along the way, Riewoldt lost his sister Maddie to the rare disease, aplastic anaemia, in 2015, her passing marked by the annual “Maddie’s Match” played between St Kilda and Richmond to find a cure for the disease.

every generation has to make some history of its own.

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PRlORlTY MALE

FILM

COMING SOON Michael Adams GRABS A LARGE SLUSHIE AND A JUMBO POPCORN IN READINESS FOR THE FILMS TO SEE IN 2018.

JANUARY

FEBRUARY

ALL THE MONEY IN THE WORLD (Jan 4) The title refers to J. Paul Getty’s fortune, a sliver of which was demanded in 1973 by crims who kidnapped his grandson. Ridley Scott directs this real-life thriller, with Michelle Williams as the kid’s distraught mother, Mark Wahlberg as an ex-CIA fixer and Kevin Spacey as the ruthless gazillionaire who won’t play ball.

PHANTOM THREAD (Feb 1) Paul Thomas Anderson reteams with There Will Be Blood star Daniel Day-Lewis for a drama based on the life of 1950s British designer Charles James. The movie, apparently, is to be DDL’s acting swansong.

DARKEST HOUR (Jan 11) Our cinematic obsession with Winston Churchill continues.

Atonement director Joe Wright recreates the 1940 crisis which saw the British Bulldog deciding whether to make peace or war with Hitler. Spoiler alert: it was the latter. Gary Oldman is the cigarchomping leader.

THE POST (Jan 11) One of two 2018 flicks directed by Steven Spielberg, this dramatises The Washington Post’s decision to publish The Pentagon Papers, exposing, among other things, how the US government illegally expanded the Vietnam War by bombing Cambodia and Laos. Tom Hanks and Meryl Streep star.

SWEET COUNTRY (Jan 25) Warwick Thornton’s followup to Samson And Delilah is a 1920s-set Aussie western in which an Aboriginal man is hounded through the outback. The cast includes Hamilton Morris, Sam Neill and Bryan Brown.

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APRIL GRINGO (Mar 8) Aussie Nash Edgerton directs his brother Joel, along with Charlize Theron and Amanda Seyfried, in a comic-thriller with David Oyelowo as a hapless dude going from citizen to criminal in Mexico.

LAST FLAG Writer-director Richard Linklater of Before Sunset and Boyhood fame turns his gaze from Gen X slackers to Vietnam vets for a comic drama that has Bryan Cranston and Laurence Fishburne joining Steve Carrell to bury his son, recently killed serving in the Middle East.

WINCHESTER (Mar 15) Aussies the Spierig brothers, who gave us Undead, Daywalkers and Predestination, direct Helen Mirren in a real-life horror movie about Sarah Winchester, heiress to the fortune created by the rifle company, who kept adding to her San Francisco mansion for 40 years to elude all the ghosts made by her family’s weaponry.

MARCH

READY PLAYER ONE

FLYING (Feb 8)

(Mar 29)

Steven Spielberg’s other 2018 biggie is this spectacular adaptation of Ernest Cline’s best-selling novel of the same name, which depicts a dystopian world of 2045 in which people’s only escape is into a virtual reality wonderland called Oasis.

RED SPARROW (Mar 1) Jennifer Lawrence (above) is a Soviet spy, trained in the art of seduction and murder, who has latched onto Joel Edgerton’s CIA agent. From Francis Lawrence, director who made the best of J-Law’s Hunger Games flicks, Red Sparrow looks a classy action thriller.

THE DEATH OF STALIN (Mar TBC)

From Armando Iannucci, who brought us The Thick Of It and Veep, comes a political comedy that has various foul-mouthed politburo, military and KGB imbeciles fighting for power after Stalin kicks the bucket in 1953.

Steve Buscemi, Jason Isaacs and Jeffrey Tambor head up an all-star, all-swearing cast.

ISLE OF DOGS (April 19) Wes Anderson’s animated animal comic-drama The Fantastic Mr Fox was a winner. Here’s hoping he hits those heights again with this sci-fi tinged stop-motion flick about canines abandoned to a trash island in futuristic Japan.

Voice work from Bryan Cranston, Jeff Goldblum and Bill Murray.

AVENGERS: INFINITY WAR (April 25) The plot’s unknown at the time of writing but does it even matter?

This latest Marvel instalment will vacuum up all the moolah on earth thanks to it folding the Guardians Of The Galaxy gang into the Avengers core group alongside new member Spider-man.

MAY BREATH (May 3) Aussie actor Simon Baker directs and stars in this adaptation of Tim Winton’s 2009 Miles Franklin Award winner of the same name.

The WA-shot drama has Baker as an old surfer who befriends a couple of teens in the mid-1970s.

The ace Richard Roxburgh and Rachael Blake co-star.

DEADPOOL 2 (May 31) Ryan Reynolds’ totes-inappropes super-antihero returns for more foul-mouthed, bi-curious and graphically violent adventures. The first flick was a fresh and funny blast of vulgarity; a wicked corrective to an oversupply of superhero films.

2018 JUNE

JULY

SEPTEMBER

OCEAN’S EIGHT (June 7) Can eight women pull off the sort of heist that required between 11 and 13 men? We’re guessing yes, when this spin-off ’s femmes fatale include Sandra Bullock, Cate Blanchett, Anne Hathaway and Rihanna.

SKYSCRAPER (July 12) It’s The Rock meets Die Hard as Dwayne Johnson’s FBI rescue specialist has to save his family when they’re trapped inside a Chinese skyscraper. It’s going to be in 3D, so prepare for vertigo.

ROBIN HOOD (Sept 20) Don’t expect men in tights – or portly Russell Crowe – in this gritty retelling that stars Taron Egerton of Kingsman in the lead role, with Jamie Foxx as Little John and Tim Minchin as Friar Tuck.

Ben Mendelsohn as the Sheriff of Nottingham confirms this is a must-see for its casting alone.

AUGUST

THE INCREDIBLES 2 (June 14)

The director of the original, Brad Bird, floated this sequel over a decade ago, saying he’d only go ahead if he had an idea better than the first film. Fingers crossed he’s true to his word. This picks up where The Incredibles left off, with our skewed superhero family this time tackling a villain called the Underminer.

TAG (June 28) This promises to be the breakout man-comedy of 2018. Ed Helms, Jeremy Renner, Jon Hamm and Hannibal Buress star as 40-something dudes who have for decades played an elaborate annual game of tag. But this year it falls when the only one who’s never been “it” is getting married.

THE PREDATOR (Aug 2) A 1980s-themed month kicks off with a reboot of the dreadlocked alien franchise. This instalment is set between Predator 2 and Predators and helmed by the very clever Shane Black, who starred in the original Predator and went on to write and direct Iron Man 3 and The Nice Guys.

SCARFACE (Aug 9) Say hello to my little remake.

We could safely ignore this except a) the 1983 version was also a remake; b) the Coen brothers have had a hand in writing this; c) the lead is the very talented Diego Luna.

THE EQUALIZER 2 (Aug 16) Denzel Washington does his firstever sequel in this follow-up to the 2014 film version of the 1980s TV show. Try saying that five times fast. But don’t question it.

Just accept that Denz does deadly violence in a way that makes you think it’s dramatically deep.

DECEMBER

NOVEMBER

AQUAMAN (Dec 26) All through Entourage, this was the Holy Grail of Hollywood roles for Vinnie Chase. But now it’s set to take Jason Momoa – better known as GoT’s Khal Drogo – into the superhero stratosphere. Shot in Australia, Aquaman is directed by James Wan, the local lad who made good with Saw, and co-stars Nicole Kidman, local lass made good who you’ll remember from BMX Bandits.

HOLMES AND WATSON

BOHEMIAN RHAPSODY

(Nov 8)

(Dec 26)

It’s been too long since Will Ferrell and John C. Reilly’s last team-up and this comedy with them as Arthur Conan Doyle’s legendary crime-solving bros promises to be a pisser.

Leaked set footage showed that Rami Malek – breakout star of Mr Robot – is an uncanny fit for Queen lead singer Freddie Mercury in this long-gestating biopic. Let’s pray this does the fandango while doing justice to the man’s legend and life.

OCTOBER FIRST MAN (Oct 11) Director Damian Chazelle goes from La La Land to the lunar landscape and takes Ryan Gosling along for the ride in this biopic about Neil Armstrong, first man on the moon.

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TRAVEL

TRAVELLING SOUTH

Adelaide Oval (left)

Men’s Style VISITS ADELAIDE AND MCLAREN VALE IN SOUTH AUSTRALIA TO WORK OUT WHETHER THE STATE REALLY IS ON THE RISE AS THE HOME

Exeter Hotel

Mayfair Hotel

OF THE BESPOKE, BOUTIQUE GETAWAY.

A

bout 10 years ago Men’s Style was invited on a trip by South Australian Tourism which focused heavily on the state’s industrial capacity – in between some great meals and local wines, the media contingent spent a lot of time in hard-hats and white-tissue overalls visiting the Holden factory, RM Williams, and the submarine-building facility at Osborne.

How fast times change.

A decade on, SA Tourism invited us back, and this time there wasn’t a production line or a machining tool in sight. This trip was all about “boutique SA”, an introduction to the ever expanding range of dining, wining, cultural and day trip experiences available to a visitor arriving in Adelaide.

As SA Tourism’s Brent Hill tells Men’s Style over lunch at Etica Pizza al Taglio in Adelaide’s Halifax St (now nationally famous due to the social media controversy around the whole cow which hangs from the internal roof of the eatery), South Australia understands it can’t compete with Sydney and Melbourne on certain big-city attractions. Instead, says Hill, it offers some unbeatable bespoke itineraries starting in ever-quaint Adelaide and involving three world-class wine regions less than an hour away in the Barossa, McLaren Vale, and the Adelaide Hills.

There’s a sizeable makeover currently on the go in Adelaide itself, which quickly becomes clear during a rickshaw ride with EcoCaddy around the city that takes in redeveloped eating

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precincts such as Vardon Avenue and Peel St – the epicentre of the small bar phenomenon that has been embraced by Adelaide as well as the rest of the nation – the expanded Adelaide Oval, the new Royal Adelaide Hospital, the Central Market and Grote Street.

After a cleansing Coopers Pale Ale in museum-piece city watering hole the Exeter Hotel, we watch the sun set over Adelaide Oval while enjoying a Negroni from the rooftop 2KW Bar and Restaurant and then head off to dinner at Osteria Oggi in Pirie Street, one of Adelaide’s crop of excellent modern Italian diners. The wisest choice from the menu? Leave yourself in their capable hands on both the food and drink front.

We bed down at Adelaide’s newish five-star boutique Mayfair Hotel in the heart of the CBD – a comfortably contemporary establishment with a retro air due to its location inside the 1930s-era Colonial Mutual Life building on the corner of King William and Hindley streets – ahead of our trip to South Australia’s McLaren Vale on the Fleurieu Peninsula the following day.

After breakfast we’re met by the tall and engaging figure of Ben Neville from Off Piste Tours, a Fleurieu local who’ll be our guide for the day. Via Whistle & Flute Café in Unley for heart-starting coffees and then specialty cheese shop Bottega Rotolo in nearby Goodwood, we’re soon on the Southern Expressway headed for McLaren Vale. Ben is excellent company as he talks about his experiences guiding overseas before his return to South Australia

Osteria Oggi

Adelaide Central Market Etica Pizza al Taglio

Whistle and Flute Cafe (left)

Bottega Rotolo Gourmet

ADELAIDE

McLAREN VALE Onkaparinga River National Park

The Vineyard Retreat (below) Bekkers Wine

Star of Greece (above)

Victory Hotel

The d’Arenberg Cube

Lunch at the Star while overlooking the Gulf St Vincent is a quintessential experience of the region.

Rundle Mall in the Adelaide CBD (top); lunch at the Star Of Greece in Port Willunga (above, left); the private dining space in the cellar at The Victory Hotel (above, right).

to start his own tour company, focusing on the region he calls home.

Before long we detour into the Onkaparinga River National Park, a place Ben is the only tour operator with access to (he literally has the keys to the gate). After a steep descent through thick bush we arrive at a quiet spot at the bottom of the gorge, with gnarled, ghostly old gums lining the creek and bird life dashing through the branches.

Ben sets up a small table and cloth from the back of the 4WD for an impromptu tasting – the soft cheeses from Bottega Rotolo are brought to the table along with a small round loaf of wholemeal bread, some apple, nuts, a bottle of Primo Estate Primo Secco and two glasses. Hey presto, a moment of repose mixed with foodie bliss in the South Australian bush.

Out of the gorge we press on and are soon in the heart of McLaren Vale, spotting the much-discussed Cube on the hill at d’Arenberg Wines (see our feature story on the region’s latest tourist attraction on our recent Classic Edition No.2) as we head for Bekkers Wines. Once there we’re greeted by Smudge the dog and Toby Bekkers, who with his French-born wife, Emmanuelle, the winemaker, produce deft, beautifully textured wines which they aim to be “emblems of the region”. Grenache is the star, which we enjoy in the sit-down, sunlit tasting room of this bespokefeeling winery as the personable Toby talks about his history managing wineries in the area and how that experience coupled with Emmanuelle’s winemaking expertise led them to begin their own label, which enjoys a cult-like following, mainly via overseas mail order.

With one eye on his watch, Ben announces we need to leave as lunch awaits. We take the scenic road down through Maslin Beach to Aldinga and then into Port Willunga, arriving at the landmark clifftop restaurant Star Of Greece.

Owned by Doug and Nikki Govan, and run day-to-day by Nikki, this unpretentious but ever-popular diner is named after a local shipwreck in which 17 perished, but there’s nevertheless plenty of Grecian and Mediterranean influence on the menu, with local seafood options the stand-outs alongside meatier offerings such as Wagyu beef fillet and chargrilled spatchcock. Doug oversees the wine list, focused on an eclectic and diverse bunch of South Aussie wines (not all of them from McLaren Vale) with some internationals thrown in for good measure. Inside what feels like an upmarket old sailor’s hut, lunch at the Star while overlooking the Gulf St Vincent – watching a blue sky turn to storm and back again, the day we were there – is a quintessential experience of the region.

After lunch we head to Doug Govan’s other baby, the Victory Hotel, up the hill from Sellick’s Beach, where the irrepressible Doug shows us around his expansive pub which caters for allcomers, from families looking for Sunday lunch or dinner, to groups of blokes wanting to watch the big game. Doug takes us downstairs to a purpose-built cellar area, where a long table surrounded by bottles of wine can be used for private dining experiences, and locked, hideyhole rooms store Doug’s extensive wine collection, including a simply phenomenal back catalogue of semi-mythical Clare Valley wine, Wendouree.

It’s late afternoon as we leave and head for d’Arenberg Winery to talk to chief winemaker Chester Osborn about his ambitious, some say crazy Cube project, where he is aiming to create a fine dining and immersive, interactive wine experience in the one, genre-bending structure. The presence of senior South Australian Tourism officials at the site when we arrive is testament to the importance of the project not only to the longrunning d’Arenberg business, but to the region and the state.

From there we farewell Ben and his super comfortable 4WD and head to our accommodation for the evening at The Vineyard Retreat, a self-contained luxury guest house located within a working vineyard that appears ripped from the pages of Country Living. From here we head to the nearby Salopian Inn for dinner, where in cosy surrounds, chef Karena Armstrong produces contemporary Australian cuisine via a regional, seasonal menu which nevertheless feels heartily homecooked.

It’s our final stop in McLaren Vale before we head back to Adelaide the next morning for the flight back east. More than we did before, we understand why we didn’t step foot in a factory this time – South Australia has come of age as a destination for the short and stylish getaway. men’s style

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TRAVEL

DOUBLE BAY - SYDNEY

EASTERN JEWEL SYDNEY’S INTERCONTINENTAL DOUBLE BAY IS THE MODERN DEFINITION OF A NEAR-CBD LUXURY STAY .

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n our Classic Edition No.2 currently on the stands, this beautiful property in Sydney’s Double Bay, a short hop from the CBD, serves as the backdrop to our luxurious men’s accessories shoot in the issue.

The reason we chose it for the shoot should be obvious – it’s such an impressively appointed property which due to its near-city location, serves as both perfect 5-star weekend getaway hotel and, during the week, a destination for businesspeople who may meet in the city but are attracted to the idea of returning afterwards to Double Bay’s tree-lined streets and village ambience.

The renovation and reopening of the former Ritz-Carlton as the Intercontinental Double Bay in late 2014 was a huge shot in the arm for this pocket of the eastern suburbs, which had lost its lustre as a shopping and entertainment precinct after the opening of Westfield Bondi Junction.

The immaculate result in terms of the common and guest rooms, combined with a new, upmarket approach to the food and beverage offering, has made the hotel a Sydney landmark in just a couple of short years.

Staying involves a choice of 140 generously-sized guest rooms and suites, all with contemporary residential-style furnishing. Many feature a private balcony with vistas of the bay, the leafy Double Bay village, or onto a courtyard which evokes a French provincial location. The top-of-the-line Royal Suite is the largest guest room available and features a string of private balconies, study, dining room, butler’s kitchen, walk-in robe and spacious lounge, with a view of Port Jackson.

Depending on the package, expect access to luxury hotel facilities, including the Club InterContinental lounge, day spa and 24-hour gym.

VIEWS, VISTAS AND GIN One of the undoubted highlights

The Rooftop Lounge (left); the Royal Suite (below); dish from the Stockroom restaurant (bottom, left); Stillery Cocktail Lounge (opposite, top); Rooftop Lounge at night (opposite, bottom).

of this property is the Rooftop, a chic poolside bar with views overlooking Sydney Harbour and the ideal place to unwind and watch day turn to night across the Emerald City, or just take a dip in the scenic pool. Open daily from 11am until one hour past sunset throughout the week, the Mediterranean-inspired lounge is one of Sydney’s rooftop gems.

Downstairs, 1940s-inspired cocktail lounge Stillery is a gin specialist, with over 100 varieties.

Staying or drinking here without sampling a G&T or a gin cocktail would be a crime. High Tea is also an immensely popular offering in the lounge, reinforcing the glamourous old-world atmosphere of the room.

Breakfast, lunch and dinner are served in the Stockroom restaurant, where Executive Chef Alex Vilches and his team make the most of fresh, locallysourced produce to offer seasonal, innovative, botanical-inspired dishes such as Riverina lamb pot-au-feu, Rosemary consommé and Spring baby vegetables, or

Staying here without sampling a G&T or gin cocktail would be a crime.

Byron Bay pork belly with vanilla quandong and Warrigal greens from the Spring dinner menu. An optional extra for dining is the matched gin experience, given the Stillery’s expertise in the spirit.

Apart from gin, the wine list is an interestingly curated list which focuses on organic, natural and biodynamic wines, sourced from Australia and abroad.

BRUNCH WITH MOET & CHANDON During Summer, the hotel has announced its superb rooftop space will host “Rooftop Brunch” with Moët & Chandon.

Offered from 11am every Saturday, visitors and guests alike will be able to enjoy a gourmet buffet brunch crafted by Alex Vilches along with a glass of Moët Ice Impérial for $59.

The brunch will include elegant dishes such as delicate Pink Pepper Cured Salmon and fresh cucumber sandwiches, seasonal fruit and berries, and moreish Danish Pastries. icsydneydoublebay.com

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MOTORING

SHOW AND TELL Jez Spinks FINDS THE NEW VELAR TO BE AN IMPRESSIVELY STYLISH ADDITION TO THE SMALL RANGE ROVER FAMILY.

V

elar – derived from the Latin word for ‘cover’ – was the name given to the 1969 prototypes that aimed to conceal development of the original Range Rover, though there’s no disguising Land Rover’s 21st-Century ambitions.

Just one ‘Rangie’ existed for 33 years until 2003; Velar becomes the fourth – slotting in between the Evoque and Range Rover Sport that emerged, respectively, in 2011 and 2004.

It’s priced accordingly, starting from $71,550, where the Evoque kicks off in the $50K bracket and the Sport from $91,000.

Ditherers beware, though: there’s a staggering 40-odd variants from which to choose, and your account can be depleted by up to $135,562 (or $168,862 for the limited-run P380 First Edition we drove).

Like the Evoque, the Velar – pronounced with the emphasis on the second syllable – looks like a concept vehicle that’s mistakenly been approved for real-world use. Our First Edition model even came with showcar-style, wheelarch-engulfing 22-inch wheels.

With its rising waistline and tapering glass area sandwiched by overhangs that are short up front but long at the rear, plus ultra-slim headlights and tail-lights, the Velar is pure visual drama.

As is access. Press the key fob on approach,

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and chunky, motorised doorhandles that were flush with the bodywork deploy outwards.

Climb into the First Edition’s gorgeously supple, perforated Windsor leather seats with every-which-way power adjustment, complete with electrically unfurling under-thigh cushion, and the view isn’t as elevated or as expansive as you get in the taller-riding, taller-windowed flagship Range Rover. Yet while you don’t get the same king-of-the-road sensation, you are treated to an interior oozing regal coolness.

Immediately distracting you from oodles of lush leather, squidgy plastics and soft ‘suedecloth’ headlining is Land Rover’s new Touch Pro Duo system. Possibly the finest twin-screen execution we’ve encountered yet and standard on all Velars, it comprises

two, stacked 10-inch touchscreens that could easily wear the famous bitten-apple logo. Like an iPhone, the screens feature swipe and pinch functionality, and respond sufficiently quickly like pressing a smartphone icon. The upper screen – which tilts forward upon start-up – focuses on infotainment, with the lower display hosting functions for climate, seat heating/ ventilating/massage (where included), Terrain Response vehicle modes, and other settings.

Cleverly, two physical dials on the lower console section alter their graphic displays in accordance with the functions you’ve selected. Climate features traditional temps, for example, or choose Terrain Response and you can cycle through various driving modes such as Dynamic, Comfort, and Gravel/Mud/Snow – depending on your mood or the surface.

The Velar has both the electronic smarts and the ride height to handle some off-road excursions, thereby fulfilling the brief of any Land Rover despite its obvious design priorities – though this is a Range Rover that is more about driving on country roads than across country estates.

This is the first Land Rover to be based on the architecture from sister company Jaguar, and it also shares drivetrains with its F-Pace

The Velar is pure visual drama.

SUV twin – including an on-demand all-wheeldrive system rather than a full-time set-up, for which the company is more renowned. Most of the engine’s torque is delivered to the rear wheels, with the front tyres given a greater share whenever the vehicle’s computer determines, within milliseconds, that traction is about to wave the white flag.

Despite engineering commonalities, the Velar doesn’t feel as agile or playful as its British cousin, yet it knows how to navigate corners with composure and grip. The buttery smooth steering also allows you to guide the mid-sized Rangie with absolute accuracy and pleasure.

And while you tend to be aware you’re piloting a vehicle weighing about 1,900 kilos, strong, easyto-modulate brakes provide ample confidence.

That mass also explains why the P380’s supercharged V6 needs some revs on board before progress can be called “effortless”. The D300 twin-turbo V6 diesel with its superior torque – 700Nm versus the petrol’s 450Nm – would be tempting for its greater low-rev pulling power and reduced enthusiasm for emptying the Velar’s tank as if fuel was going out of fashion.

The P380 – part of a new range of Land Rover engine badges – suits the Velar’s character, however, and it’s quite the all-rounder with its ability to provide both mid-range grunt and some high-rev performance. An ability to cover the 0-100km/h ground in 5.7 seconds isn’t messing around. A broader rev range also makes more sense of the paddleshift levers, even if it’s a shame they’re the same plastic flippers from the F-Pace rather than a tactile-feeling metal more befitting of the interior.

Or just leave the excellent eight-speed automatic to figure things out itself, as the gearbox provides fluid and well-judged shifts whether driving is spirited or relaxed.

Six-cylinder Velars come standard with air suspension where four-cylinders rest upon conventional steel springs. You could sense its underlying suppleness in our P380, though our First Edition’s huge 22-inch wheels struggle to maintain ride comfort. There’s enough protection from potholes, though you expect a Range Rover to be cosseting. It’s likely smaller wheels, ranging from 19-inch to 21-inch across the S, SE and HSE trim grades, would help.

Passengers who’ve also sat in an F-Pace, though, will notice the Velar’s design has reduced rear-seat legroom.

Yet if the Range Rover Velar isn’t as handsomely executed in every measure, there’s enough substance to show those stunning conceptual looks are no frivolous façade.

Sting in the tale Korean car giant Kia has set out to surprise with its new large sedan, writes Jez Spinks.

Kim Jong-un has been firing out

the Year but does power the Stinger

ballistic missiles as quickly as his

from motionless to 100km/h in 4.9

rhetoric, but a Stinger directed from

seconds.

the southern, democratic part of

The Kia delivers its biggest

the Korean peninsula is also on a

surprise, however, on those sinuous

destructive path. Fortunately, its

stretches dubbed ‘Driver’s Roads’.

only intention is to annihilate brand

Historically, you could point to

perceptions.

only the Hyundai Tiburon and Kia

Stinger is the name of Kia’s

Proceed GT as Korean cars that

boldest car yet – a large, rear-wheel-

have tickled a keen driver’s interest,

drive sedan that is either saddling

but the Stinger GT joins them in

a horse that has already bolted, or

providing genuine engagement.

auspiciously timed as a replacement

There’s a lovely rear-drive balance

for Australia’s departing Holden

reminiscent of a BMW, as the

Commodore.

Stinger steers enthusiastically into

Even badge snobs would surely

a corner perched on its outside rear

have to concede that this is a Kia

wheel – and you can feel the torque

with striking looks – especially in the

push you out of the bend as you

flagship GT guise we drove.

accelerate mid-corner.

There’s a more aggressive

And unlike so many Korean cars,

interpretation of the brand’s family

the steering is perfectly linear and

‘face’ at the front end – it sits low

doesn’t get upset if there are bumps

to the ground on big, stylish 19-inch

in those corners. Vagueness around

alloy wheels, and the coupe-style

the straight-ahead lets it down a bit

sloping roofline blends into muscular

in normal driving, while the auto can

rear haunches.

frustrate by over-riding the driver’s

Fake bonnet vents are a bit on the nose, though even if real they

paddleshifted gear selections.

Here comes the caveat: while

wouldn’t dissipate heat from a V8 –

the Stinger looks stylish and drives

at least not yet. The GT is powered

well, this $59,990 GT version is let

by a 272kW twin-turbocharged V6,

down by a budget interior. Yet while

which isn’t going to earn any votes

it’s true you won’t experience the

for Most Emotive Engine Noise of

same tactility and quality you find in German luxury cars for similar money, the Stinger borrows some interior design cues from the likes of Audi, BMW and Mercedes while achieving a harmonious design and offering enough of its own character.

You also get to enjoy the drive in the comfort of Nappa leather seats with multiple electric adjustment.

As a car that sets out to marry Kia’s renowned value proposition with rare-for-the-brand dynamics, the Stinger hits the target.

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BEAST MODE Ash Westerman DRIVES THE JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE TRACKHAWK, A VEHICLE THAT CLAIMS THE TITLE AS THE WORLD’S FASTEST SUV.

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aution: you are entering a pragmatismfree zone. If you’ve never used your Big Bertha driver for an approach shot on a par three, or you’ve never shot a grouse with a grenade launcher, then there’s a real chance you won’t understand the new range-topper of Jeep’s

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Grand Cherokee SUV line-up.

Feel free to sniff, mutter something about “pointless wanker-mobile”, and turn the page.

We’ll understand.

For the rest of you, here’s the Trackhawk in a nutshell: it’s the world’s fastest, most powerful,

PRlORlTY MALE

MOTORING most extreme SUV. It promises no real off-road ability, yet despite the ‘Track’ part of the name, it’s too heavy to deliver consistent lap times on a circuit. It’s ridiculously over-powered for regular road use. It sits here, squatting on its vast haunches, almost daring the haters to troll it on social media.

But here’s the Trackhawk’s counter-punch: in a world where every new car needs an absurd, unachievable fuel consumption sticker glued to its bland forehead, the Trackhawk scoffs.

It flexes, its veins pop, and it sprays its highoctane man-juice into the air. It’s unashamedly unhinged, yet superbly well-engineered and almost absurdly seductive in how it sounds, and goes.

Slide in and settle into a wonderfully supportive powered seat in a very wellappointed cabin, brimming with standard comfort and convenience features for which Trackhawk’s European rivals – SUVs like Porsche’s Cayenne Turbo, BMW’s X5 M and the Mercedes-AMG GLE 63 S – ream you via expensive ‘bundle’ option packs. Ergo, the feelgood factor rises, just a little. Sure, it’s not as premium-feeling as those Euros, but Trackhawk will sell in Australia for around $140,000 when it arrives in December, which is around half what Porsche charges for a Cayenne Turbo S. Press start, and the 6.2-litre supercharged V8 engine barks once, then settles to a contented idle. Yes, there is over 700 horsepower in the old measure, but you’re not obligated to deploy it all in one gobful. There are a bunch of driver-adjustable systems which allow you to set Trackhawk for precisely the driving conditions. In its most passive set-up, you prod the throttle and it responds with a muted, pleasant burble. You lightly tread into suburbia and the Trackhawk shows utter docility. The right pedal gives exactly what you ask, whether that’s a gentle surge to match traffic flow, or a life-affirming hand-in-the-back shove to nip through an orange light.

Okay, the ride is pretty lumpy in this domesticity mode. Point the finger at the massive tyres – at 295mm on all four corners, the fronts are wider than many performance cars fit to the rear. Those huge front contact patches also blunt the steering feel at suburban speeds, making it a bit inert at the straightahead, and a little muted-feeling just off centre.

But that’s about it, in terms of around-town compromises.

It’s the small price you pay for startling, eyewidening dynamic ability when the shimmering

mirage of an empty, winding road becomes a reality. Switch the thing to Race mode and let the suspension snug down into its lowest, firmest setting. The stability control is now off, so make sure you have the reactions to correct the small slides that will come from the rear thanks to 70 per cent of the grunt being funnelled to the rear tyres. The shift calibration of the eight-speed automatic transmission, too, may shock you into thinking something is broken and you need to see a dealer. No, those angry, back-thumping sensations – like you’re being kicked up the arse by that PE

‘As a novelty act, it’s huge fun, like ballroom dancing with a silverback gorilla.’

be flung about like an oversize, 2.4-tonne allwheel-drive hot hatch. Turn in early with plenty of left-foot trail-brake to get the rear pivoting and minimise understeer from the front tyres; get back hard on the gas and with the exhaust flaps open, it bolts with just a hint of squat. The steering comes good on track, feeling lithe and incisive as you swing across its arc, and the huge Brembo brakes hang in manfully, up to a point.

As a novelty act, it’s huge fun, like ballroom dancing with a silverback gorilla.

Yes, you can mount any number of arguments against Jeep’s flagship, but let us attempt a case ‘for’. You wish you could own a muscle car, maybe a supercharged Mustang, but your partner favours an elevated driving position, and your family requirements mean you need five seats and a generous cargo area. You can’t afford a $290,000 Porsche Cayenne Turbo S. But that’s all logic, and that takes us onto unstable ground. Better to just go with it, because in creating perhaps the world’s most questionable SUV, Jeep has actually delivered a vehicle we need now more than ever.

teacher you hated in school – are intentional.

I’m still wondering if I should send a letter of commendation to the Jeep powertrain team, or a claim of compensation.

At this point you may question whether it’s a good time to have your family on board. Play it safe and drop them at the nearest train station.

We tried hard to fully extend Trackhawk on some rural back roads in Maine, USA, but in the interests of neighbourly relations, found the limits at the excellent Club Motorsports track at the edge of New Hampshire’s White Mountains.

There the Trackhawk revealed it’s quite happy to JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE TRACKHAWK Engine: 6166cc V8 (90°), ohv, 16v, supercharger Max Power: 522kW @ 6000rpm Max Torque: 868Nm @ 4800rpm Transmission: 8-speed automatic Weight: 2,433kg 0-100km/h: 3.6sec (claimed) Price: $140,000 (estimated) On sale: December 2017

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GONE BUSH Men’s Style RECENTLY TOOK IN THE BIRDSVILLE RACES AS WELL AS THE DUST, FLIES AND VAST OPEN SKIES OF THE BIRDSVILLE TRACK ON A CAMPING TRIP DRIVING THE MAZDA BT-50.

O

ne of Australia’s most iconic outback events is the annual Birdsville Races, held in the remote town of Birdsville on the edge of Australia’s vast Simpson Desert. The event swells Birdsville’s population of 115 people to about 7,000 people during the weekend of race-going and partying, and this year Men’s Style was in the thick of it before a drive down the legendary Birdsville Track in a Mazda BT-50.

The famous desert race meet draws a wide cast of characters – many in fancy dress – from all parts of Australia to watch horses and jockeys battle the endless dust in a seven-race meet, first held back in the 1880s. Australian GovernorGeneral Peter Cosgrove attended the hospitality marquee along with Men’s Style as we enjoyed the dry conditions with – what else in Australia? – icy cold beer.

Once the race meet was over the crowd headed back to town to congregate around the famous Birdsville Hotel, where a range of bushies demonstrated whip-

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cracking and other bush skills in front of the pub, watched by a thirsty, can-chugging crowd.

Opposite the pub Fred Brophy’s famous boxing tent sets up for the duration of the race meet, where all-comers arrive to take on Brophy’s international troupe in willing bouts definitely not sanctioned by the WBA, WBA , IBF or RSPCA. Brophy’s tent is an old-school fixture of the Birdsville event.

That night Men’s Style ‘glamped’ in ‘Tent City’ on the edge of town, treated to more cold beers and the makeshift gourmet feast prepared by our touring chef for the next couple of days, Adelaide’s Billy Dohnt of Billy Dohnt Does.

There’s something surreal about sitting in a camp chair under a tent watching the stars come up over the Australian desert while eating a meal you’d be more likely to find in a top Sydney restaurant… but hell, it was enjoyable.

Once the concert at the Birdsville Hotel wrapped up about 1am, we got some sleep ahead of a big day – driving the famed Birdsville Track

The Clayton Station camp (main pic); post-races at the Birdsville Hotel (above, top); at the race meet (above, middle); Billy Dohnt (above).

into South Australia in the Mazda BT-50.

After Billy’s breakfast of bacon and eggs with hollandaise we hopped into the cars for the unmissable photo op outside the Birdsville Hotel, surprisingly spic and span after the raucous night before. There were things to immediately note about the 4X4 Dual Cab BT-50 we hopped in: while it looked like a rugged, bush-bashing piece of equipment that most of the bushies would use every day, it felt like a city SUV once you sat behind the wheel, i.e. comfortable.

After a brief safety talk from drive manager Tony and a warning about some of the road conditions on the Track, we left Birdsville via a police breath testing unit (passed!) and hit the open road. The famous Track was in fairly good nick and as we opened up the BT-50’s 3.2 litre five-cylinder turbo diesel engine, we were soon passing caravanners on their return from the races. About two hours into the drive we hit some soft sand and hard-to-spot hollows in the road which put the handling capabilities of the car to the test.

Steering and suspension were remarkable in these conditions, with driver and passenger in complete comfort as the BT-50 bumped through the dips and back onto the flat track.

That night we camped at Clayton Station, most of the way down the track towards our final stop of Marree. A trip to a nearby mesa saw some of the party test the car up a rocky incline to the top, where the view of a mob of kangaroos and the treeless plain in the late afternoon was a peerless sight. Back at the camp Billy worked his magic on the Weber and tales were told and marshmallows incinerated around a rip-roaring camp fire.

The next day we rolled into Marree for lunch at “probably” the only pub in Marree (it is the only pub in Marree) before flying out on our journeys home. Remarkable places visited in a remarkably tough car.

Photographs by THOMAS WIELECKI

TRAVEL & MOTORING

PRlORlTY MALE

FOOD + DRINK TO EAT

WAGYU SHOULDER OYSTER BLADE “COOKED TWO WAYS”, with BONE MARROW, ONION SOUBISE, BLACK PEARL BARLEY

Daniel Menzies A NEW CHEF AT THE WILMOT BRINGS THE FLAVOURS OF THE WORLD TO SYDNEY’S FIVE-STAR PRIMUS HOTEL.

T

he transformation of the former Sydney Water Board building in Sydney’s Pitt Street into the five-star Primus Hotel a year or so ago was a welcome addition to the city’s retinue of top hotels.

The blending of the building’s significant Art Deco heritage with contemporary, big-hotel touches makes it a unique property to stay at for Sydney visitors.

One of the most notable things about the Primus is the imposing lobby – the eight-metre high red, scagliola columns, white marble floor and high ceilings providing a dramatic backdrop to checking in, having a drink, meeting for coffee, or dining at The Wilmot.

The highly experienced Daniel Menzies has now taken over from Ryan Hong as Head Chef at The Wilmot. Menzies has worked alongside 3-Michelin Star chef Guy Savoy, as well as Daniel Hughes and Guillaume Brahimi. Most recently Menzies spearheaded the opening of Bistro Moncur, Mosman.

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Menzies’s menu features a mix of multicultural techniques and flavours, ranging from classic French, Asian infusion, South American and Italian. Menzies is also known for his experimental cooking styles – cooking naturally over coals and using flavoured wood, and has integrated these new techniques into his menu at The Wilmot.

“Working with honest flavours and creative cooking techniques is where I create my best work,” he says. “I use simple garnishes and flavour packed sauces influenced by cuisines from around the world.”

Menzies has generously shared the recipe of one of his signature dishes from The Wilmot with Men’s Style.

Slow braised & pan seared, “Rangers Valley Wagyu” 360 days formulated ration feed BMS 7+ New England Tablelands, NSW

INGREDIENTS 80g-90g Braised Oyster Blade 5+ 100g-110g Seared Oyster Blade 7+ Onion Soubise Pickled black barley Edamame beans Bone Marrow 5cm stalks Anise jus Nasturtium

OYSTER BLADE PREPARATION 1 Oyster Blade +5 500g beef off cuts 750ml thick red wine 1 brown onion 1 carrot 1 celery 1 Bay leaf 1/4 bunch rosemary 1/4 bunch thyme 1/2 garlic bulb 10 whole peppercorn 5 juniper berries 5 cloves 5 star anise 3 all spice 5L veal stock

NEWS METHOD 1 Remove sinew from oyster blade and marinate all ingredients together 12 hours or overnight in fridge. Then remove oyster blade and oxtail, pat dry and season with salt and black pepper.

Sear on all sides in a hot pan.

2 Place all other ingredients in a pot and bring to boil. Simmer, add oyster blade, and then cover with parchment paper and foil.

3 Place in oven and cook at 120c for 1.5 hours, then turn and cook for another 1.5 hours. When cooked you should be able to pass a metal thermometer through easily.

4 Once cooked, rest blade in stock for 30 minutes, then season with salt, wrap, poke holes in wrap and press in fridge overnight.

5 Then portion blade 80-90g and vac pac with 1 tbsp of Wagyu jus.

ONION SOUBISE 250ml Full Cream Milk 250ml Pure Cream 1000g Brown Onions 50g Garlic Peeled 75g Olive Oil Finely slice onions and chop garlic. Sweat in oil until very soft . Blend to puree, then pass through fine chinoa. Season at end with salt and white pepper.

PICKLED BLACK BARLEY Black barley Pickling Liquid – 2tbsp water, 1 tbsp Vinegar, 1tbsp Sugar Add aromatics, thyme, spices.

Cook barley in the pickling liquid.

GIVE IT THE BIRD

OBJECT OF DESIRE

VINTAGE BREW If your house looks a bit like a vintage store full of pieces from the mid-20th Century and the decades after, then this Smeg 50s Retro Style Espresso Coffee Machine probably deserves pride of place on the kitchen bench.

Looking like a benchtop version of a Cadillac convertible, the machine utilises a thermoblock heating system to ensure close-to-instant hot water for your coffee and is equipped with an ergonomic control panel for one-touch hot brews.

The 15-bar pump pressure concentrates beans at an optimal level to ensure the coffee has a rich taste and a crema top. Available nationally from David Jones, Myer, Harvey Norman in pastel blue, red, black and panna. $499; smeg.com.au

WHIRLY BIRD IN SYDNEY’S PYRMONT CELEBRATES COCKTAILS… AND POULTRY!

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ear-city bar options continue to flourish in Sydney and the latest is Whirly Bird in Union Street, Pyrmont, opened by former Keystone Group figure Anthony Prior.

A bar and diner focusing on cocktails and share plates featuring fine poultry, Whirly Bird’s aim is “casual elegance” in a multi-function space that can seat 150 and includes a 12-person private dining area as well as bar, lounge and outdoor areas.

The menu includes signature rotisserie spit roast birds or killer buttermilk fried chicken paired with one of two sauces – chilli and honey caramel, or house-made Whirlybird smoky BBQ. The list also includes vegetarian and vegan options such as ‘salt ‘n’ pepper silken tofu’ with spring onions, ginger and ponzu.

Cocktails are the drinks focus, created by Rollo Anderson and Liam Doherty-Penzer with a music history theme, but there are also classic and craft beers and a wine list with all options available by the glass.

Whirly Bird, 84 Union Street, Pyrmont.

Sun-Wed, 12pm-12am; Thurs-Sat, 12pm -1am. whirlybirdsydney.com.au; (02) 9660 7134.

ENTERTAINING

CHRISTMAS IN A BOX Want to host your nearest and dearest for Christmas lunch but don’t have time for the prep that goes into this most important festive meal? Marley Spoon, the meal kit service founded in Berlin in 2014 is also now in Australia and can bring you Christmas lunch. All you’d need to manage is basic cooking and setting the table.

Marley Spoon’s Christmas In A Box is available as this issue goes on sale and provides a festive feast for 4-6 people which will take you 2.5 hours to prepare and cost about $41.50 per peson. Christmas Boxes will arrive on December 23 and include simple recipes, menus and a full schedule to help you get Christmas dinner on the table in record time. Those who order one of the boxes will also be in the running for a new Whirpool fridge as part of a Christmas promotion.

More details at marleyspoon.com.au

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PRlORlTY MALE

DRINK TRY THESE

FROM 2016

BUDGET

BRILLIANT BORDEAUX Mike Bennie CHATS WITH MASTER OF WINE ANDREW CAILLARD

ABOUT ONE OF THE WORLD’S MOST FAMOUS WINE REGIONS.

B

ordeaux’s image remains unscathed amongst the cognoscenti but it barely raises the pulse for the more avant-garde drinker. The buttoned-up grand Chateaux imagery of the region projects a rarefied air and inspires aspirational drinking culture, but ‘common folk’ seem to have shifted their gaze. Bordeaux has lost a generation of drinkers.

In high end, fine wine circles however, particularly the increasingly voracious Chinese market, Bordeaux’s image has not faltered.

Top end Chateaux achieve record money at auction, wines are bought and sold like stocks and shares, and the best wines of vintage are clamoured for. Each year a horde of suited and booted wine critics descend on the winegrowing region for ‘en primeur’ tasting – an orgy of sampling unfinished wines, tasted direct from barrel. The subsequent reviews have a marked impact on wine buyers.

Amongst the frenzy there have been some interesting shifts in Bordeaux culture. Off a small base, an increase in organic and biodynamic farming suggests a shift to more holistic winemaking. Smaller producers – less concerned about the frenetic en primeur tastings – are releasing more expressive, less high octane versions of the regional staples.

The 2016 vintage in Bordeaux, yet to be unleashed in full to the market, is on its way.

One of the world’s leading Bordeaux experts is Master Of Wine, Andrew Caillard, who has travelled repeatedly to the region over the past three decades. “The wonderful 2016 vintage in

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Bordeaux follows an impressive track record of very good back-to-back years (2014 and 2015),” he says.

The climate during the growing season writes the narrative of Bordeaux each year, and 2016 was no different. “In April 2016, temperatures fell to minus 3 degrees centigrade in some parts of Bordeaux, causing extreme damage in some vineyards,” explains Caillard. “[Vineyards] St Emilon, Pomerol and Margaux and were badly affected with losses of between 50 and 100 per cent – the worst frost damage in 25 years.”

Caillard says that while the frost event of 2016 will inevitably cause significant economic stress to many producers, it may well escalate prices. “There is nothing like a natural disaster, the threat of impending shortages and uncertainty to rally markets.”

Cabernet sauvignon is clearly the star performer in this vintage with its extraordinary skin-to-juice ratio and freshness. The Left Bank designation of Bordeaux – being more cabernet sauvignon dominant – has produced some of the most impressive wines.

St Estephe and Pauillac are very strong performers for 2016. The wines possess beautiful aromatic complexity, richness of flavour and classic fine-grained textures.

Perhaps the most stunning surprise is the mythical yet controversial Chateau Pavie, which is intense, lively and complex.

Bordeaux is in the midst of redefining itself and counts 2016 as a magical year, with more diversity and interest than ever before.

CHATEAU CANTEMERLE: Revitalised in the 1980s, Cantemerle is known as a ‘Fifth Growth’ estate but offers classic expressions of Bordeaux, set to more fine, elegant styling. Savour judicious spicy oak woven through dark fruit character with faint, floral lift . Expect to pay around $70 per bottle.

CHATEAU LAFON-ROCHET: Typically a cabernet dominant wine, the Lafon-Rochet house style champions restraint over bombastic character.

The wines are often ideal for medium to longer term cellaring, but in youth drink at medium weight with firm, fine tannins. Slow cooked dishes at the ready. Expect to pay around $90 per bottle.

TOP END CHATEAU MONTROSE: Reliably one of Bordeaux’s greatest wines, Montrose often outlives its purchasers, with a conservative cellar life of around 50 years. In youth, these wines are stoic, firm, powerful in tannin and inward in concentration.

After 10 years, texture is seductive and the fruit character, moreish. Expect to pay around $350-400 per bottle.

CHATEAU LEOVILLE LAS CASES: Often lighter yet more complex than most of its Bordeaux brethren, Leoville Las Cases is typically loaded with dark berry fruit, cedary wood spice, black olive and faint herbal character. It’s a wine of great inward concentration, but ultimately has a stylish feel, with silky texture, impossible length of flavour, and ultrafine tannin. Expect to pay upward of $700 per bottle.

PRlORlTY MALE

WELLBEING

3

MODIFY AL DESKO EATING

In a perfect world you would always be able to take a lunch break. Stepping out of the office in the middle of the day ramps up energy. But if you have to eat at your desk, switch off temporarily by not checking your emails, continuing to work or talking shop. Eat more slowly, too. Gobbling your food makes you more prone to snacking later in the day.

4

LASER FOCUS John von Arnim ON ESSENTIAL STRATEGIES FOR A MORE PRODUCTIVE WORK DAY.

U

nproductive busyness has become the scourge of our times. According to a Harvard study, many of the things we choose to do are merely justifications to keep ourselves busy. What’s the answer as you exhaust yourself with a day job, a podcast, a start-up business on the side or anything else you decide to squeeze into your life as evidence of a successful working life? Start with taking the time to reflect and getting rid of habits that sabotage everything you do.

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DE-QUASIMODO

Everywhere you look people are locked into Hunchback of Notre Dame slumps as they peer at computer screens and smartphones. A habit that’s not only bad for body alignment, it can lead to tension headaches, neck and back pain. Correcting your posture doesn’t begin and end with looking taller and more dominant, it means developing a neutral spine to reinforce the three natural hollows of your body – at the base of the neck, the middle and lower back. Calling time on slouching boosts mental performance and concentration because it increases testosterone production and improves your ability to relax and focus on problems.

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men’s style

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PAY DOWN YOUR SLEEP DEFICIT

Erratic working hours and the pervasive impact of electronic and digital devices, especially late at night, play havoc with sleep patterns. Longterm sleep deprivation can lead to obesity, metabolic upsets and poor overall health. But even a week or two of interrupted slumber leads to daytime drowsiness and poor job performance. To sharpen up your responses, try blackout shades and sleep masks and stop looking at any type of screen two hours before you go to bed. If you have accumulated a five-hour sleep debt during the week – the average amount – you need a one-and-a-half hour lie-in on the weekend to get back on track.

FOOD VALUES

The wrong food choices – fast or takeaway meals heavy with sugar, fat, salt and white flour – can leave you feeling bloated, tired and stressed. To feel more energetic and productive, stoke up on vegetables, fruits, wholegrains and lean proteins for steady energy through the day, not the sugar and carb highs of fast foods.

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BOOST YOUR IMMUNITY

Constant stress weakens the immune system. Your body is less able to fight off the effects of colds and flu and you can become more prone to anxiety and depression, says Aussie wellness expert, Blair Norfolk. He recommends taking one plant-based multivitamin supplement daily and getting 15 minutes of sun exposure a day.

Sun is a natural immune booster and protects the body against autoimmunity.

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DON’T BE OVERRELIANT ON SUPPLEMENTS

Health and diet gurus peddle many claims about the brain and bodyenhancing benefits of mega-doses of vitamins and supplements. But before you attempt to get boundless energy from a bottle, even water-soluble vitamins which aren’t DON ’T MU LTI-TAS K stored by the body can have unintended A stack of international studies have effects. Vitamin B6, for shown that trying to do too much example, contributes at once wastes more time than it saves. Too to a healthy nervous much multi-tasking can also reduc e brain system, but ingesting function. Even enthusiastic supp orters of “the more than 100 new way of working”, such as Goog le, have milligrams a day can realised that employees who don’t focus on a lead to nerve damage. task or problem because they are distracted More than 2000 by emails, social media and open browser milligrams of Vitamin windows are unproductive work ers.

C can lead to diarrhoea and kidney stones.

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KNOW WHEN TO STOP

There used to be a myth that Japanese office workers worked the longest hours in the world, until it was discovered the vast majority were chained to their desks only ‘looking’ as if they were working.

Everyone has to work longer occasionally, but if your job bleeds into your personal life all the time, your performance suffers.

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GET MOVING

Any form of exercise strengthens brain circuitry, so choose a routine you will stick to.

Fitness trackers, gym workouts and other goal-oriented exercises work well for Type A personalities. More social, collaborative types should opt for group activities such as spin classes and calisthenics. Swim, walk, hike or cycle… just generally stay active.

XMAS GIFT GUIDE Our carefully edited selection from the acres of ‘stuff ’ suggested to us as possible festive season presents.

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ift guide suggestions from PR companies and brands start earlier every year. We think we received the first one back in August.

And from that avalanche of product we’ve done the editing for you to hopefully provide a range of Christmas gift ideas for the important men in your life – things of quality, things that will last, and things at different price points.

Choose wisely!

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA Zegna’s Toyz collection is an exclusive line of men’s accessories, entertainment and home products crafted from the brand’s signature Pelle Tessuta – an innovative woven leather fabric made from extremely thin strips of micro leather.

The variety of items include small leather goods, a selection of travel games, multimedia accessories and a luxury bag.

zegna.com.au

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CK JEWELRY

TIFFANY

GROWLERWERKS

Inspired by sleek, modern architecture,

Tiffany & Co.’s Chief Artistic Officer,

Look, personal kegs! Made in Portland, Oregon, these kegs with their steam-

these masculine silver pieces use a

Reed Krackoff has created a new

thin, straight structure to achieve a

collection, Home & Accessories,

punk design are perfect for parties,

contemporary and vigorous look that

born from the notion that beautiful

BBQs, fishing and more. Available in

works back with watches and apparel

things should not be limited to special

variants of 1.8L and 3.8L (4-5 beers and

from the Calvin Klein collections.

occasions. The luxury collection

8-10 beer capacity), in copper-plated or

Bangle, $149; necklace, $129.

comprises silver gifts, objects, leather,

stainless steel, you can also use them

calvinklein.com/au

home and baby, and aims to make

for wine, sangria, cocktails and even

ordinary objects extraordinary.

coffee. Genius.

tiffany.com.au

gallantoro.com.au men’s style

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XMAS GIFT GUIDE

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SEIKO

MONCLER

For the man who loves a timepiece with

The famous Italian outerwear brand

serious functionality, the Seiko Astron

arrived properly in Australia this

provides GPS dual time calendar – it

year, opening a standalone store

automatically receives time, time zone,

at Chadstone Shopping Centre in

day and date data from the global

Melbourne. Beautifully crafted in lux

network of GPS satellites to keep you

fabrics and materials, Moncler’s pieces

on correct time wherever you are in the

have a fashion-forward edginess to

world. What’s more, the power reserve

them for the resident stylemeister

is two years! $2,600.

in the family.

seiko.com.au

moncler.com

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PHILIPS

AESOP

SYNERGY AUDIO

B&O

For the chap in the family who

The homegrown grooming brand

As or music man Rod Yates points

B&O Play has launched its first

professes to be “sick of shaving”,

has released gift packs under the

out earlier this issue, 2017 vinyl

wireless earphones, Beoplay E8.

consider the Philips series 7000

banner of The Enigmatic Mind,

asales are at levels not seen since

Key features include a pock-

Wet and Dry Shaver. It protects

with titles such as Perception,

the 1970s. That makes this sleek

et-friendly charging case, while

against skin irritation thanks to

Proximity, Concord, Regard,

Rega Planar 6 turntable a canny

each earpiece has a 5.7mm dy-

SkinGlide rings with anti-friction

Afffiliation, Association and Sway.

gift. Designed to take the listener

namic speaker. An audio-transpar-

coating, for a smooth glide across

Each features a combo of Aesop’s

back to the glory days, its well

ency feature moderates real-world

your face. Its blades cut close,

well crafted products, from hand,

constructed with a beautifully

sound. Leather charging case, five

even with 3-day stubble. $349.

face, body and overall skin care.

simple design. $1,999.

ear tips and cable is $449.

philips.com.au

aesop.com

synergyaudio.com

beoplay.com.au men’s style

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XMAS GIFT GUIDE

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WOODFORD RESERVE

KRAKEN

CELLARMASTERS

For the wacky guy in the family,

Cellarmasters has a number of

Add a personal message to

consider Kraken Black Spiced

wine hampers ready for Xmas.

your gift of Woodford Reserve

Rum. Famous for its distinctive

For $39, the Indugence Hamper

premium small batch Kentucky

bottle and named for the sea

above includes Hanging Rock

bourbon whiskey with signature

beast of legend, this limited-

Cabernet Sauvignon 2014, Lindt

laser engraving. Gift boxing is

edition collectible ceramic bottle

Chocolate Balls, Sandhurst

also available for an extra special

appears to be splattered by the

Australian Pitted Kalamata Olives,

touch. Order before Dec. 13.

Kraken’s mysterious black ink.

OB Finest Wafers Crackers, and

The bottle is $65, or $75 with

$89.95, Dan Murphy’s.

Beerenberg Tomato Chutney.

engraving (66 characters max.)

krakenrum.com

cellarmasters.com.au

woodfordreserve.com.au

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JANSZ

PERRIER-JOUET

DRAMBUIE

COOPERS

Chrissy Day should start with

Perrier-Jouët Blanc de Blancs is

Premium whisky liqueur

Coopers’ 2017 Extra Strong

bubbles. Premium sparkling wine

a new cuvée created by Chef de

Drambuie is finding a new crop

Vintage Ale is a special edition,

producer from Tasmania, Jansz,

Caves Hervé Deschamps, his first

of fans on the back of the rise of

limited release brew for Xmas – the 17th in the series that goes

has a range of ideal releases,

for the Maison since the iconic

whisky cocktails. Now in a new

including this Late Disgorged

Belle Époque Blanc de Blancs

bottle, its unique flavours of rich

back to its launch in 1998.

Vintage Cuvée 2009. Pale gold, it

20 years ago. It’s an elegant

Scotch whisky tones, heather

A new combination of hops and

shows intense notes of sea spray

blend of floral Chardonnays from

honey sweetness and intricate

enriched malt flavours are the

and shucked oysters, brioche and

the Champagne region’s best

layers of herbs and spices make

key characteristics of this year’s

truffle. Perfect starter.

vineyards. Available at DJs.

it a perfect festive drink.

Ale. Six-pack, $27.

jansz.com.au

www.perrier-jouët.com

www.drambuie.com

coopers.com.au men’s style

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See bran brand d video video stories storries ie for

ON TREND

this iss issue’s ue’s Get Ge The e Loo o k at Look mensstyl mens style.co styl e.com.au e.co m.au u mensstyle.com.au

combination dressing for the contemporary man

LACOSTE The effortlessly chic French brand has come a long way since René Lacoste first introduced his iconic piqué polo shirt 80 years ago.

Today Lacoste is a full apparel offering, as well as shoes, accessories and leather goods, all informed by its heritage as a classic brand for the active, outdoor man but also with a cool, contemporary edge.

Put on Lacoste and you immediately look like a man with a firm grasp of his own style, rooted in quality staples but with room to add the stylish, on-trend flourish... like the lightweight trench here.

GET THE LOOK P H OTOG RA P H Y

ADRIAN PRICE ST Y L LII N G

KIM PAYNE G ROO ROOM MING

BRADWYN JONES

lacoste.com.au Lacoste trench coat, $799, jacket, $599, singlet, $199, and pants, $299.

men’s style

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ON TREND

THE ACADEMY BRAND When we spoke with The Academy Brand founder Anthony Pitt for our Men Of Style list this year, he used words like “laidback, casual, simple, streamlined” to describe his style and what he likes in menswear.

Those qualities are also selfevident in the clothes from The Academy Brand, making them particularly suitable for Australian men who would largely describe themselves in the same way.

Simplicity, a restrained colour palette, and well-cut garments in quality fabrics comprise the offering through men’s shirts, tees, shorts, swimwear, basics, hoodies, jackets and more. It’s a bona fide Australian success story. academybrand.com The Academy Brand jacket, $159.95, shirt, $89.95, tee, $29.95, and chinos, $129.05.

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men’s style

BROOKS BROTHERS Created in New Orleans in 1907 especially for hot and humid conditions, seersucker is the perfect material when you need to remain ‘dressed up’ in the Australian summer.

Given its heritage, what better place to buy a seersucker suit than heritage US men’s outfiiter Brooks Brothers, celebrating 200 years of existence during 2018.

The brand that has dressed numerous Presidents and become a byword for suiting in the States brings its unique experience to the blue-and-white stripe of this particular fabric.

Team the suit with hues of pink or red on your shirt, tie and pocket hanky, and instantly achieve a timeless, old-world look that’s also just damn cool. brooksbrothers.com.au Brooks Brothers suit, $1,299, shirt, $169, tie, $129, tie bar, $115, and pocket square, $99.

GET THE LOOK

men’s style

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NAUTICA BY LIL YACHTY Rapper Lil Yachty joins with the famous lifestyle brand for an exclusive heritage capsule collection for Summer 2017.

The super bright 19-piece collection draws inspiration from Nautica’s design archives as well as favorite personal vintage Nautica items Lil Yachty has worn over the years.

The collection covers both apparel and accessories, and includes a ripstop down puffer coat, Sherpa fleece bomber jackets, knit activewear tops and bottoms, cargo shorts, graphic tees, colour blocked polos and reversible fleece-lined bucket hats. Nauticabranded logo graphics and tartan plaid prints from the archives are re-mixed with fresh colours, logo treatments, and updated with Lil Yachty’s “Sailing Team” logo. nautica.com.au Nautica by Lil Yachty bomber, $199.95, hoodie, $159.95, and bucket hat, $59.95.

GET THE LOOK

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men’s style

ON TREND

MJ BALE While there are a number of homegrown menswear brands, it’s arguable MJ Bale – founded by Matt Jensen in 2009 – has been the most significant of the last decade when it comes to dressing Australian men.

With its keen pricing and prominent high street presence in 57 standalone stores around Australia (including outlets), MJ Bale’s offering of a wide style of suits and separates, along with blazers, shirts, shorts, knitwear, accessories and more has become a gateway into quality dressing for many Aussie guys.

Characterised by ‘soft tailoring’ which makes the garments ideal for warmer Australian conditions, MJ Bale’s success reveals it’s discovered a winning formula in its appeal to local men. mjbale.com.au MJ Bale jacket, $399, shirt, $129.95, tie, $99.95, pocket square, $49.95, and chinos, $129.05.

men’s style

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ON TREND

FRAGRANCES

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SCENTS OF OCCASION 4

THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO WHICH FRAGRANCES TO WEAR TO WHAT EVENT DURING PARTY SEASON.

BY Elisabeth King.

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men’s style

Puttin’ On The Spritz

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ou wouldn’t wear the same shoes to ask for a promotion or paddle a kayak up a remote river. Just as different footwear is made for every occasion and activity, so are fragrances. Whether you’re looking to meet the love of your life, catch a wave or go bush, Men’s Style has done the hard yards to come up with the right choices for today’s hectic lifestyles.

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AESOP HWYL EAU DE PARFUM

backwoodsman scents in the US such as

Outdoorsy fragrances have always

Juniper Ridge Mojave Trail Resin Cologne.

appealed to the closet frontiersman

Inspired by the woods and mosses of an

in urban males, conjuring up images of

ancient Japanese forest, this earthy scent

Ned Kelly beards and battling for survival

featuring cypress, vetiver and moss is an

against the odds with every spray.

upmarket campfire cologne for the bush

There’s a whole genre of contemporary

warrior. $130; aesop.com

THE HIS AND HERS FRAGRANCE TREND IS INTENSIFYING, NOT PETERING OUT. HERE ARE THE LATEST PASSION IGNITERS TO MATCH YOUR MOODS.

’s Wo m e n

Me n’s CALVIN KLEIN OBSESSED FOR WOMEN AND FOR MEN A re-tread of Obsession, this is Calvin Klein’s sex incarnate bestseller. The ads use unseen footage from the 1993

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VALENTINO UOMO ACQUA

sophisticated fragrances with more

campaign for the original juice starring

Over 200 hot weather records were

traditional notes can suffocate. Stay cool

Kate Moss, shot by her then-boyfriend

beaten last summer and this year may be

and classy with this ladykiller which tames

even more sizzling. And that’s a nightmare

the power of the original Uomo. The iris,

where black tie and dressy events are

tomato leaf and citrus notes deliver a

involved. When dusk falls and it still feels

cut-above complexity to stand out from

like a 50 degree evening in Manila, many

a crowd. From $109; David Jones stores.

Mario Sorrenti. If it’s true that people go away to come back, these memory lane newbies are definitive gettingback-together scents. But even if the relationship is new, the men’s version is a feel-good blend of spices, leather and woods. Soft and fresh with lavender,

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DUNHILL ICON RACING

original and that’s a good thing for summer

The racing in the title refers to cutting-

daywear. A fresh heart of orange flower,

edge sports cars. But the latest member

lavender and pepper makes this a stylish

of the Icon family works equally well for a

choice whether you’re betting on the next

day with the gee gees – on the track or at

race or behind the wheel of an open top

the polo. A self-assured woody/oriental,

convertible. From $100; selected Myer and

it isn’t as complex or long-lasting as the

David Jones stores.

L’EAU MAJEURE D’ISSEY MIYAKE

the yachtie’s ‘uniform’ of shorts, boat

Calling all sailors. A fresh, salty fragrance

for sunset drinks by the sea, as well.

with decent longevity, this new entrant

From $103; Myer, David Jones and selected

from the Japanese master is custom-

pharmacies.

shoes and a T-shirt. A top holiday choice

made for boating weekends. The

its female counterpart is simply sexy.

From $79 for both; Myer, David Jones and selected pharmacies.

HUGO BOSS THE SCENT INTENSE FOR HIM AND FOR HER Guys who liked the original 2015 release – The Scent – will welcome the amplified power of this follow-up.

Balanced and spicy, the warm drydown lasts for six hours minimum without becoming overpowering. The peach

minimalist structure teams well with

note that made The Scent for Her such a winner is back in this spicier, deeper

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version. You can’t go wrong with this

GUESS 1981 FOR MEN

in the open – earthy and relaxed. Guess

Green notes in a fragrance kickstart the

has long traded on sensuality, so it’s

same rush of endorphins that flood your

surprising it took so long to release its first

body after physical activity. That earns

men’s woody/green juice. A classic mix

it the ‘sporty’ label but it also links to

of cedarwood, violet, bergamot and salty

the perfumer’s saucy maxim that green

grey amber, it’s perfect for a picnic for two.

fragrances remind both partners of sex

From $49; Priceline; selected pharmacies.

GOLDFIELD & BANKS PACIFIC ROCK MOSS

celebrates our own. The south coast of

Most fragrances with a sea breeze theme

effort, as you’d expect from ace perfumers

reference the coasts of other countries

Goldfield & Banks, it’s tangy with citrus,

provided Floris bath essences for Sean

– Italy, France, the Caribbean. Australia

lichen, seaweed and musk and perfect for

Connery and Ursula Andress when he

has the sixth longest coastline in the

strolling along one of the nation’s 10,685

imprisoned them in his island lair. The

world yet this is the first Aussie scent that

beaches. $229; goldfieldandbanks.com

NSW, to be precise. A very sophisticated

pair whether the occasion is casual or dignified. $145 For Him and $129 For Her.

FLORIS TURNBULL & ASSER 71/72 AND CHYPRESS Movie villains lack class these days. In the original James Bond movie, Dr No

British upper crust brand offers two new fragrances for a classy attraction of opposites. The men’s juice, created

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PACO RABANNE PURE XS

the fact that intensifying sexual desire was

Paco Rabanne 1 Million and Invictus have

its goal. The ad campaign for this newbie

shirtmaker Turnbull & Asser, is a woody

become global smash hits with Millennials

tries to link the same message to being the

aromatic that suggests Kingsman-like

looking to ramp up their chances in the

heir to a fortune. This fresh oriental sparked

mating game. In 1993, when many were

with ginger, myrrh and vanilla was made

conceived, Paco Rabanne launched the

to stick close to the skin – with or without

$299 for Him and $199 for Her;

original XS which made no bones about

clothes. From $97; Myer and David Jones.

libertineparfumerie.com.au

in collaboration with establishment

machismo. In contrast, Chypress is a sensual white floral – crisp yet yielding.

men’s style

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ON TREND

GROOMING

JUST ADD WATER Elisabeth King DIVES INTO THE PICK OF

BEST NEW PRODUCTS FOR SUN PROTECTION AND AFTER-SWIM SKINCARE.

E

njoying a daily dip is the definitive Aussie summer exercise.

But the water you swim in can wreak havoc on your skin and hair if you don’t take extra care. Chlorine is tough on bacteria so imagine what it does to other life forms, starting with the dreaded stinging and burning of “swimmer’s eye”.

Sea water contains beneficial minerals, but salt in high quantities is just as drying to the skin and hair as chlorine. Even if you shower immediately after an ocean swim, salt residue hangs around. Throw in hours of sun exposure and you’re on the fast track to ‘desert skin’, with damaged barrier function and hair as dry and brittle as straw. Here’s the Men’s Style guide to looking good as you work on that swimmer’s build.

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L’OCCITANE SHEA BUTTER ULTRA RICH BODY SCRUB

ULTRACEUTICALS SUNACTIVE SPF50+ FACE & BODY LOTION

As every schoolboy knows,

Applying a water-resistant

the ocean contains natural

sunscreen before a swim

antiseptic drying agents

has more benefits than the

that help to heal spots and

obvious. They are formulated

acne. But diluted salts are

with more protective

impossible to remove with just

emollients that form a barrier

a quick rinse-down and can

which allows water to bead

lead to long term dehydration

off without disrupting the

for surfers and dedicated

skin’s natural moisture levels.

beach lovers. Go easy with a

Chlorine also increases the

loofah or a scrub that’s too

production of ageing free

grainy, warn dermatologists.

radicals in the body and

If you don’t know your own

antioxidant protection is

strength, you risk taking off

vital. This powerful broad

a layer of skin with the salt

spectrum sunscreen contains

residue, damaging its barrier

an antioxidant shield complex

function and making it more

containing caffeine and ferulic

vulnerable to sun damage.

acid to keep sun damage

Enriched with shea butter and

at bay. A four-hour water

apricot oil, this effective body

resistant film and touch-dry

scrub does the business but

technology for a shine-free

also prevents further drying

finish deliver optimum

of the skin. $46; au.loccitane.

protection in and out of the

com

water. $49; ultraceuticals.com

JACK BLACK COOL MOISTURE BODY LOTION

AVÈNE SKIN RECOVERY CREAM

VASELINE PETROLEUM JELLY

KLIM FRESHEN SWIM WASH

Skin is technically waterproof

A bathroom staple for

Chlorine is a great disinfectant

PATRICK’S SH1 THICKENING SHAMPOO

but the body’s largest organ

decades, there’s been a lot of

but no-one knows better than

Diving into a pool with dry

If you already suffer from dry

soaks up chemicals and

buzz about nanna’s “wonder

Olympic swimming legend

hair absorbs chlorine directly

skin on your body, its natural

salt. There are a host of skin

jelly” containing harmful

Michael Klim how toxic it can

into the hair shaft, so always

oils are already depleted,

problems linked to swimming

chemicals. Not so. It’s actually

be to the skin. Klim Swim

wet your hair beforehand to

making it more prone to

in chlorine from rashes

highly refined. At a pinch you

Wash has been specifically

prevent it becoming brittle.

premature ageing and the

through to itchiness, contact

can use Vaseline to prevent

formulated to give the flick to

Chlorine and sea water both

‘cracked shoulder’ look. Packed

dermatitis and dehydration,

car battery corrosion, ease

chlorine film and smells. The

strip away the hair’s natural

with glycerin, antioxidant

not to mention long-term

the pain of haemorrhoids

hero ingredient – Vitamin C –

oils and the best defence is

Vitamin E, jojoba oil and

damage at the cellular level

and cure athlete’s foot. It’s

neutralises chlorine, reducing

a protein-based shampoo.

proteins, this smoothing body

that can lead to lines and

also a cure-all for common

the risk of inflammation

Strengthening proteins form

lotion is deeply hydrating

wrinkles. This dermatologist-

swimmer’s ailments like

and irritation and boosts

the core of this world-beating

without being sticky or greasy.

approved moisturiser protects

chapped lips, cuts and grazes,

the effectiveness of your

Aussie hair cleanser that

Ironically, water itself leaches

irritated skin as it reinforces its

rashes and scalp irritation.

sunscreen. Calendula and aloe

targets hair loss and provides

away your body’s natural

natural defences. The power

Massage into extra dry areas

vera in the mix help to heal and

UV protection. For a belt-and-

moisture, so don’t wait until

active ingredient is the French

like elbows, cracked heels,

hydrate. $14.95; milkandco.

braces approach, use Patrick’s

you feel uncomfortable in your

brand’s thermal spring water,

hands, fingernails and knees

com.au

CD2 Moisturizing Conditioner

own skin to add some more.

globally recognised for its

for instant relief. From $2.99;

to guard against damage

$49; mensbiz.com.au

ability to treat even tough skin

pharmacies nationally.

and repair the hair’s protein

problems like psoriasis and

“integrity”. $40 and $42,

eczema. $38.95; avene.com.au

respectively; patricks.com.au

men’s style

Three products that will energise your skin in seconds.

Japanese and South Korean skincare technology is fuelling a global boom.

Cosmetic waters, packed with antiinflammatory, anti-ageing and repair ingredients, instantly hydrate the skin fast-tracking a healthier, more supple look. They are also a layabout’s dream. Just a quick swipe with the fingers revitalises the skin on contact.

Fast-absorbing with no greasy residue, they can be used alone or under a moisturiser.

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LAB SERIES FOR MEN SOLID WATER ESSENCE

Looking knackered? In consumer testing, 86 per cent of men said their skin felt more energised and 94 per cent reported an instant burst of hydration after one application of this gel-to-liquid jumpstarter. Featuring ginseng, caffeine and bamboo-infused water, use as a pick-me-up any time you need to look a lot more wide awake. $67; Myer and David Jones stores.

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LA MER GENAISSANCE THE INFUSED LOTION

Accelerated cell renewal is the promise of this oil-in-water formula that kickstarts a healthier, more vital look in seconds.

Containing the prestige brand’s ProBio Ferment, the intensely hydrating lotion comes in a big bottle that really lasts. Give it a shake before each use and use only a few drops to strengthen the skin’s resilience and make it look firmer. It’s a top choice for anyone who suffers from shaving irritation. $340; cremedelamer.com.au

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JURLIQUE ACTIVATING WATER ESSENCE

Bio-dynamically grown marshmallow root extract powers this hydrating essence that reboots the skin. The effects are immediate but after two weeks of use the skin feels more supple around the clock. A few drops used before your moisturiser also boosts its performance. Use any time your face is feeling dry. $70; jurlique.com.au men’s style

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ON TREND

BRANDS

A

check of the Instagram page of Luigi Lardini confirms that the man who founded his eponymous label in Italy’s La Marche region back in 1978 not only shapes the brand, he lives the brand.

In Australia recently, where Lardini is sold through luxury department store Harrolds, Creative Director Luigi and brother Andrea (who manages the technical side of the operation) reflected on the journey which has taken them from a teenager’s dream to create luxurious menswear rooted in the traditions of Italian tailoring to a brand with an international reputation for pushing sartorial boundaries within a framework of meticulous workmanship.

As seen in Luigi’s own ensembles on social media, this means highquality garments with a focus on fabric and detailing, exemplified most notably by the famous fabric flower Lardini works onto the buttonholes of its beautiful blazers.

In a world of increasing casualization and the movement to less formal ‘athleisure’ wear, bespoke jackets and blazers remain the core focus of Lardini and will always do so, says Luigi.

“It’s important to know how to dress for the right occasion and in some instances the jacket creates the element of elegance,” he tells Men’s Style. “We believe that a suit jacket will elevate the outfit, which is why our roots will remain in tailoring.”

Lardini reinforces his claim by observing how men have changed their approach to dressing since his family founded the company in the late 1970s.

“There is a better understanding of sophistication now [among men],” he says. “Men are aware of their style, the image they want to portray and the looks which complement their shape.

Our client has also developed a further understanding of quality, which has impacted on their purchases.

“Men in general are becoming more interested in the idea of bespoke.

These are the men who are attentive to way they dress and admire the details. These are the elements which

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‘A suit jacket will elevate the outfit, which is why our roots will remain in tailoring.’

Luigi Lardini (LEFT)

PRIDE OF ITALY Men’s Style SPEAKS WITH LUIGI LARDINI, THE FOUNDER AND CREATIVE VISIONARY BEHIND LUXURY ITALIAN MENSWEAR BRAND LARDINI. Looks from the Lardini S/S18 Collection (left, and below).

make a man more elegant.”

That “understanding of quality” is responsible for the success of Lardini and inherent in the family-run, ‘Made In Italia’ business, with Lardini’s production facility at Filottrano having also produced garments for the likes of Burberry, Etro, Valentino and Versace.

Describing its menswear as “elegant but informal”, there is a palpable luxuriousness in both fabric and construction to the suits and jackets seen on this page.

Design collaborations with the likes of international menswear influencer Nick Wooster and Gabriele Pasini have helped introduce Lardini internationally to a younger audience via social media.

“Social media has certainly broadened our clientele and with it, has changed the world of fashion and developed the ‘now’ culture,” says Luigi.

“Social media and the digital world have also played a significant role in how consumers are inspired.”

We end our chat by observing that in a world in which many family businesses, including in Italy, are sold to larger corporate interests, it must be a source of pride to remain a genuine Made In Italy company in which four siblings hold key positions.

“Yes, and that is clear from the positive sign that the company has grown over the years, a growth where we have been able to select customers,” says Lardini. “Our clientele have an indepth understanding of what it means to dress.”

Available through Harrolds, Australia’s Luxury Department Store; harrolds.com.au

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CONVERSE Local fans of NBA teams have grown in number as Aussies such as Patty Mills, Dante Exum and Ben Simmons have made it in the world’s premier basketball league. Show support for your team with Converse’s NBA Chuck Taylor All Star Collection. Representing all 30 NBA teams, the collection pays tribute to the game and celebrates the culture of basketball and its influence on today’s street style with three design tiers: Gameday, Legend, and Franchise. Gameday includes 250 limited edition pairs for each of the NBA teams. converse.com.au

MR PORTER It was perhaps only a matter of time and now, from November, men’s luxury e-tailer Mr Porter launches its very own label, MR P. A year-round collection of “future classics” will focus on an ‘Essentials’ range of core staples, and there will also be five limited-edition capsule collections every year.

These will be trend-driven, seasonal and inspired by a style icon past or present, the first being British painter Lucian Freud. Mr Porter says the design process for MR P. is guided by the maxim: Easy pieces. Smart details. Enduring style.

It’s also the result of customer insight gained by servicing more than 600,000 shoppers in the seven years of Mr Porter’s existence. The launch collection includes 53 items across ready-to-wear, including 24 Essential styles available year-round and 29 seasonal styles within the debut capsule. mrporter.com

TOMMY HILFIGER The famous American brand has now brought its preppy style to Westfield Parramatta, its 10th full price store in Australia. Set over 145 sq m, the new store design reflects the Tommy Hilfiger global retail concept, bringing together the brand’s heritage with clean, modern finishes and a bright, airy aesthetic. The interior takes cues from the nautical lifestyle – one of Tommy Hilfiger’s longstanding sources of inspiration. In store currently are the Spring 2017 Tommy Hilfiger collections, including men’s and women’s sportswear and accessories. The new Parramatta store joins over 1,800 Tommy Hilfiger stores in over 100 countries worldwide. tommy.com

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ERDEM X H&M The Swedish fashion powerhouse’s latest designer collaboration, released in November, is with ERDEM, London-based ‘must-have’ designer championed by celebs and fashion insiders alike. The pieces in the collection reflect and reinterpret the themes ERDEM has used in his most celebrated collectons, focusing on prints, textiles and delicate detailing. H&M also announced that legendary Australian film-maker Baz Luhrmann has also made a film around the collection to accompany the launch. hm.com/au

GUCCI The famous Harlem couturier Daniel ‘Dapper Dan’ Hay is the star of the famous Italian brand’s new men’s tailoring ads. Shot by Glen Luchford on the streets of New York’s famous Harlem precinct, the new Gucci men’s tailoring advertising campaign centres around the Harlem couturier renowned for the made-to-order custom designs he created for celebrity clients in the 1980s and early 90s, before his eponymous boutique was closed down. The striking series of portraits reflect Dapper Dan’s debonair personality and celebrate his cultural legacy, capturing him in his Harlem neighbourhood among familiar surroundings. gucci.com

CALVIN KLEIN Luxurious fabric, sensual shapes and a technical innovation characterise the Fall 2017 Calvin Klein underwear range for men and women. For him, Calvin Klein Black sees a new, molded and bonded pouch construction, offering exceptional comfort and a no-ride effect. Sophisticated, modern prints and a tonal logo waistband are complemented by an extensive loungewear offering. Calvin Klein Customized Stretch offers clean, contemporary shapes in ultralight, soft fabrications of brushed cotton and micro, the multiway stretch material providing flexibility and retention for precise fit and ultimate comfort. calvinklein.com/au/home

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Made by hand for those who value perfection.

Hundreds of individual parts compose this Hi-Beat mechanical watch.

Our master watchmakers polish and fine-tune many of them to an accuracy of 1/1,000th of a millimetre. When you observe the precisely polished surfaces of the hands and dial, you will see an intricate play of light and shadow that expresses the subtle aesthetics of Japanese craftsmanship.

Dedication to perfection pursued for more than half a century. grand-seiko.com 9S86 Mechanical Hi-Beat 36000 GMT 36,000 vibration-per-hour movement; 55-hour power reserve.

WAT C H E S The finest new timepieces from around the world.

THE FINISHING TOUCH ELISABETH KING ON WHY HAND FINISHING MATTERS WHEN IT COMES TO HAUTE HORLOGERIE WATCHMAKING.

T

here’s nothing wrong with buying a watch for that simple aesthetic reason: “I like the look of it.”

Over time, though, the finer details start to count. A select group of highend watch brands are increasing their focus on hand-finishing as a selling point because the time-consuming techniques involved can account for up to 30 per cent of the cost of an haute horlogerie model.

Like many watchmaking terms, finishing is a translation of the French word ‘finissage’. Independent watchmakers like Kari Voutilainen and Philippe Dufour and storied brands such as Patek Philippe and Breguet rightly emphasise their incomparable hand-finishing. At A. Lange & Sohne’s HQ in Glashutte, Germany pride of place goes to the Finishing Section, where the technicians have undergone

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THE MAIN TECHNIQUES Exhaustively detailing all types of high-end finishing would fill a book. On a need-to-know basis, there are five techniques that are most common. Here’s a rundown of them: BEVELLING Also known as chamfering, it’s one of the most complicated finishing methods. In most cases, the technique involves the removal of edges of bridges and there are three main types – interior angles, exterior and rounded angles. It takes 18 months of training to become an expert at bevelling because the right amount of pressure must be used for optimum results. Too much

Continued from p79 two years of internal training and come from a wide variety of other backgrounds, from porcelain painters to goldsmiths. Greubel Forsey is also a connoisseur of hand-finishing and employs more finisseurs (finishers) than watchmakers at its La Chaux-deFonds factory.

The decoration of a movement can, of course, be as simple as a machine-engraved rotor, and machine finishing is used in the majority of watch movements.

But hand-finishing is an obsession and only a few brands devote hours to the bevelling of bridges, shaping, stippling, polishing and applying other patterns to watch components completely by hand.

THE GREAT DEBATE As more brands spruik handfinishing and decoration, the topic has sparked vigorous discussion because there are as many pros as cons. The main criticism? Handfinishing doesn’t make a watch better in terms of complications and functionality, and naysayers argue it’s just a very expensive frill that does little or nothing to improve the working of a watch.

Major prestige brands such as Rolex and Omega rely on machine-finishing because of their commitment to split-second timekeeping and function over style. Today’s machine finishing

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and the component will bend out of shape, while too little doesn’t produce sharp enough angles.

HAND-ENGRAVING

technologies are extremely sophisticated and deliver such great results that it is debatable whether the oldest tools in the world – hands – can do a better job. The term hand-finishing has also become a hazy description because many finisseurs (finishers) use tourets – small motorised tools that resemble an electric toothbrush, instead of files – to bevel and polish.

On the other side, the Yes camp reinforces the argument that swept mechanical watches back into the global limelight after the quartz revolution of the 1970s.

Watchmaking at the highest level is an art and hand-finishing involves the same level of mastery. When Vacheron Constantin decided to upscale its hand-finishing chops a few years ago, the brand had to set up an internal programme

This requires a steady hand in addition to real artistic skill. The elite who work for the high-end brands have individual styles and no two engravings are the same. This adds uniqueness to every watch on which they work.

Well-funded watch-lovers’ place orders for personalised designs.

COTES DE GENEVE

Serious watch collectors refer to hand finishing as ‘The Glow’.

Also known as Geneva Waves, this is the most widely-known form of decorative finishing. Used mainly on bridges and plates, the wave-like effect may look simple but the curved stripes have to align perfectly. No deviations permitted.

PERLAGE Also known as stippling. The name derives from the technique’s resemblance to a tiny row of pearls achieved using a circular-graining machine operated by a highly skilled finisseur. It’s an expensive finish because the graining machines themselves cost a small fortune.

SCREWS These are crucial in high-end movements and blueing makes them look like micro-art. The screw has to be heated at a certain temperature for a precise length of time and the blueing process also hardens the metal and protects it from being damaged.

involving six to 18 months training, because watchmaking schools no longer taught the skills required for the high grade finishes they needed.

Audemars Piguet is another high-end watchmaker that argues against the idea hand-finishing has no technical value. The perlage technique, for inside, on the inside of a caseback, attracts dust and impurities and thereby prevents them getting into the movement itself. Most brands use handfinishing only on visible parts, but A. Lange & Sohne believe that surface finishes should be used on many parts encased within the movement because they are beneficial to a watch’s operation.

Serious watch collectors refer to hand-finishing as “The Glow” – the factor that differentiates haute horlogerie from the try-hards.

W AT C H E S

BREITLING SuperOcean Heritage II $7,870.

DIVE STAR BREITLING’S SUPEROCEAN HERITAGE II REFERENCES THE 1957 ORIGINAL BUT WITH A LOT MORE IN THE AIR TANKS, TECHNICALLY SPEAKING. IT’S BEEN A YEAR FOR longstanding watch models to visit the archives and release a new version which incorporates elements of the very first one.

Marking 60 years since the 1957 release of the Superocean dive watch, in a decade when diving watches came of age, it would be remiss of Breitling to not do likewise with the Superocean Heritage II. Available in 42mm and 46mm, as well as the 46mm chronograph pictured, in blue, black and brown (or ‘copperhead bronze’, to

be precise – it looks more bronze in person), the triangular hour hands and lozenge-like minute ones, along with the slightly coneshaped hour-markers, are the most obvious links to the 1957 original.

A new steel bezel with scratchproof and shock-resistant ceramic ring in the colour matching the dial is the most significant update to the model, while the movement in the non-chronograph models is the Manufacture Caliber B20, developed in partnership with Tudor.

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RAYMOND WEIL

Freelancer A redesign of the chronographs in this popular line from Raymond Weil results in a more stylish, slightly less sporty look, the slate grey counters on a silver galvanic dial encircled by grooves and rose gold-plated hands and markers achieving a more dressy feel. Presented in a 42.5mm steel case, water resistant to 100m, the mechanical self-winding movement delivers a 46-hour power reserve. Several varieties in the new design include a black-dial version and availability on strap (above) or bracelet. $3,895.

CORUM Admiral AC-One 45 Chronograph $16,500.

ALL HANDS ON DECK CORUM’S LONG HISTORY OF MARITIME-INSPIRED TIMEPIECES WAS NEVER MORE OBVIOUS THAN IN THIS UNIQUE CHRONO.

ZENITH ZE E N IT EN ITH

Defy Lab TO OWN THIS WATCH we’d imagine you need some predisposition towards – or love of – bronze. Tick that box, however, and what you’d be getting with Corum’s Admiral AC-One 45 Chronograph is a unique, conversation-starting piece.

The brand famous for its quirky collections has created a pre-patinated bronze case for this piece, achieving a distinctly maritime appearance. Unlike raw bronze, which ages and deteriorates over time, the process used will allow each individual piece to develop its own unique colouration over time.

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The bronze of the 45mm case is complemented by different shades of brown elsewhere – the dial in a matching teak, featuring a vertical cut resembling that of a historic tall ship’s authentic teak deck, and the 12 pennants which mark hours throughout this collection.

Inside is an automatic chronograph caliber providing a 42-hour power reserve, while the stitched leather strap has been carefully chosen to match the shades of the 45-millimetre patinated bronze case.

Captain of the ship? This might be what you’re looking for...

Zenith hangs its watchmaking hat on the accuracy of its movements, as typified by the groundbreaking El Primero chronograph movement of 1969, the first to measure tenths of seconds. With Defy Lab, it is claiming a major technological leap forward from Huygens’ 1675 principle of regulating time by means of a coupled balance and spring – the concept that still forms the basis of all current mechanical watches. The new oscillator inside the Defy Lab replaces the sprung balance with a single piece of monocrystalline silicon beating at 15 Hertz, delivering 10 times greater accuracy than El Primero.

Astounding.

W AT C H E S

CONCEPT KINGS BELL & ROSS DELVE INTO THE AVIATION/MILITARY WORLD ONCE MORE TO CONCEIVE A SPECIAL CONCEPT PIECE.

FOLLOWING on from its B-Rocket retro-futuristic concept motorcyle in 2014 and its aircraft-inspired supercar, the Aero GT, in 2016, French watch brand Bell & Ross has now designed a retro-inspired Bellytanker race car, built using the fuel tank from a fighter plane.

“Bellytank” referred to the emergency drop tank fitted in the belly of fighter planes. After the war, US speed freak Bill Burke created the “Bellytanker” – high-speed race cars manufactured directly from these spare tanks to race on salt flats.

Bell & Ross now release two watches inspired by the retro style of the Bellytankers – the BR V1-92 and BR V2-94 pictured here. The latter is a sports chrono in 41mm case, with gold and black panda dial conveying an appropriately steely, retro feel.

BELL & ROSS BR V2-94 Bellytanker $6,900 .

DANIEL WELLINGTON

Classic Black Sheffield (left); Classic Oxford (centre); Dapper Bristol (right)

The story goes that Swedish entrepreneur Filip Tysander once met an Englishman during a business trip whose simple yet impeccable style he much admired. The man, whose name was Daniel Wellington, liked to wear vintage watches on old, weathered NATO straps. Tysander was inspired, creating a line of minimalist, classically designed watches with interchangeable straps which have since become almost a default choice for many of today’s social media stars. Well priced in the $200-$329 range, they’re endlessly versatile and adaptable for the fashion-conscious buyer.

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TUDOR Heritage Black Bay Chronograph $6,070.

RICHARD MILLE

70-01 Calibre Tourbillon This collaboration between Richard Mille and Alain Prost, four-time F1 World Champion, was inspired by a shared interest in cycling, a sport Prost took up during an enforced break in 1992. Mille realised many cyclists were unaware of how many kilometres they’d ridden since the beginning of the season. The RM 70-01’s never-before-seen totaliser remedies this by simply displaying the overall distance travelled. The pusher at 2 o’clock can select any of the five rollers of the odometer, whose readout is visible in a titanium window. Once a roller is selected, pressing the pusher located at 10 o’clock advances the roller by one.

EVENT READY WHETHER ITS WEEKENDS OR WORK WEAR, TUDOR’S HERITAGE BLACK BAY CHRONOGRAPH IS COMING ALONG FOR THE RIDE.

WHILE TUDOR HAS PRODUCED chronographs since as far back as the Prince Oysterdate Chronograph of 1970 – from which some design elements inform this piece – this is the first chrono in the Heritage Black Bay line. For us it was a stand-out piece at Baselworld 2017 earlier this year.

It’s unmistakeably a Black Bay – the snowflake hands and domed dial and crystal, as well as the prominent winding crown which first appeared on the reference 7924 from 1958. While some Tudor purists have complained about the larger snowflake hour

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hand blocking the 45-minute chronograph register between 2 and 4 o’clock, we found this a fairly groundless quibble and think both dive watch and chrono design elements work in harmony. The chronograph functions are powered by the Calibre MT5813, a movement based on the manufacture calibre Breitling 01. The sub-counters are hollowed for optimum contrast, with the date window at 6 o’clock, inside a steel case of 41mm.

It’s suitably racy to wear for active weekends but its finishing also pairs it with suiting or formal wardrobe as well.

FREDERIQUE FREDER ERIQUE CONSTANT

Runabout This is one of two new versions of a model introduced in 2009 in collaboration with the Riva Historical Society as a homage to the graceful Riva boats of the 1920s, characterised by their elegance and style. One option features a silver-coloured dial with a blue GMT hand with a matching navy blue leather strap, while the one pictured contrasts a white GMT hand and light brown leather strap with dark grey dial. Each comprises a 42mm polished stainless steel, threeparts case, a transparent caseback displaying the workings of the FC-350 movement and in-house GMT module.

Both versions are a limited edition of 2,888 pieces each.$2,650.

W AT C H E S

{ S M A R T WA T C H }

NEWS

HUAWEI Watch 2 $599

LIFESTYLE COMPANION SMART WATCH HUAWEI WATCH 2 LAUNCHES AS THE FIRST 4G SIM-ENABLED WERABLE IN AUSTRALIA. AS ANYONE WHO HAS OWNED or road-tested one of the rash of smart watches that has come into the market will know, the need for you to always be in close proximity to your phone to ensure full functionality of the wristwear is just occasionally impractical.

Launched recently in Australia, mobile maker Huawei’s Watch 2 addresses this issue. Standalone connectivity allows the wearer to leave the phone elsewhere and enjoy

near full functionality of the watch, with SIM slot and built-in GPS chip still providing calls, texts and the usage of apps such as Facebook or Uber.

Remaining in the wheelhouse of classic watch design, Watch 2 nevertheless features all those expected wearable features – customisable high-definition display dial, built-in smart sensors collecting data such as distance travelled, speed, steps, heart rate

GIORGIO ARMANI

Connected Touchscreen Yes, now ‘fashion’ watches are joining the connected watch revolution, combining the House styling favoured by many watchwearers with the functionality of the new-gen wearables. Emporio Armani’s Touchscreen is offered in a variety of styles and are compatible with both iOS and Android phones. Fairly standard smart watch functions – messages and notifications, eight customizable watch faces and 11 interchangeable rubber, fabric, and leather straps – inside a somewhat imposing 46mm stainless steel case. $649.

and calories, tracking the wearer’s favourite exercise routes while playing from a local music library or cached tracks, and Google Assistant integration via Android Wear 2.0’s intelligent operating system.

Available exclusively through Vodafone, the main appeal of the Huawei Watch 2 will be that freedom-with-functionality from the mobile, for those who just don’t want to carry the damn thing everywhere.

MICHAEL KORS

Grayson Hybrid Smart Watch Like Armani, another designer with designs on a more technologically savvy consumer who may also be wearing the clothing, the fragrance, etc. The oversized (47mm) Grayson is compataible with iOS and Android phones, features a black stainless steel case with a silicone band, analog dial and is water resistant to 300m. Smart watch functionality includes a built-in activity tracker to keep you connected without the digital screen, recording steps and hours of sleep, and notification alerts from those contacts and apps you want to stay up to date with. $449.

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MANUAL

~SUMMER ~

AMERICA

THE BEST OF AMERICAN STYLE FROM SEA TO SHINING SEA

DESIGNER OF THE MOMENT

Todd Snyder WHAT THE U. S. GAVE THE WORLD:

SPORTSWEAR And the notion that casual, comfortable, purpose-built clothes can be cool

FROM LEFT LEFT: St Steve M McQueen, Q Arnold Palmer, John F. Kennedy, and Kanye West wearing the best in all-American sportswear.

ST YLING TIPS

MADE IN TH E U. S. A .

T H E T- S H I R T U N D E R A M OTO R CYC L E JAC K E T:

THE ROLLED SHIRT SLEEVES:

Films are Marlon Brando’s second-greatest contribution to our culture.

It’s a mandatory move on the campaign trail, because it’s American as hell.

THE CUFFED JEAN: Once is enough, with no more than an inch to the width of the cuff.

He’s the great hope of New York menswear, a designer who shot up through the ranks at Ralph Lauren and J. Crew, who has an unerring eye for Americana yet never descends into buffalo-plaid pastiche. We sounded him out on American style.

“America is a melting pot, and our style is the same way: blending street fashion from New York, tailoring from Europe, Japanese indigo, and African-inspired prints.

There isn’t one look here.”

“A trench coat and navy troussers are things yyou could wear in the city, but wearing them with ssandals makes the look more casual, more island, or good ffor weekends.”

A BRIEF HISTORY OF AMERICAN STYLE 1873: Nevada tailor Jacob Davis and Levi Strauss & Co. receive a patent for using rivets at points of strain in denim pants to make them stronger and more durable.

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1921: Pro baller Charles “Chuck” Taylor makes a few tweaks to the Converse All Star shoe and becomes its spokesman.

1928: At a HarleyDavidson dealer on Long Island, New York, the first leather motorcycle jacket made

by Irving Schott goes on sale for $5.50.

~SUMMER ~

TH E EXTRA 10% :

American Edition 5

T H E FA B R I C O F THIS NATION: 2 8

3

CONE DENIM MILLS A YEAR OR SO BACK, Cone Denim

Mills celebrated 125 years, and it’s been operating at White Oak — the legendary Greensboro, North Carolina, mill — for more than 110 years. In the early days, Cone made everything from flannel to industrial fabrics; now it’s dialed in on performance denim and vintage-style selvage denim woven on retro shuttle looms. It’s worked with Levi’s for more than a century, from a gentlemen’s handshake in 1915 to its current line of Made in the U. S. A. 501’s.

7

1

4 6

1. GILES & BROTHER RAILROAD SPIKE CUFF

Good enough for fighter pilots, good enough for us. randolphusa.com

Get on board; gilesandbrother.com 2. JOE EBY PEYOTE BIRD KEY CHAIN

Southwestern wear is having a moment. Be smart—start small. mrporter.com

Authentic Cuban music and party vibes along with gloriously capitalist food and drink. eltucanmiami.com

3. MILLER’S OATH POCKET SQUARE

6. M&U CO. BRASS MONEY CLIP

Adds a pop of color and a classic pattern to any suit; functions as an actual bandanna in a pinch. millersoath.com

This rare financial instrument—it’s solid brass—can only improve with age. m-u.co

4. RANDOLPH ENGINEERING AVIATORS

Still handcrafted in the U. S. A.

THE QUINTESSENTIAL AMERICAN SHOE:

5. MATCHBOOK FROM EL TUCÁN, MIAMI

7. CROSS PEN You’ll never write the great American novel without one. cross.com

1936: Ray-Ban aviators are invented by Bausch + Lomb as an alternative to goggles.

General MacArthur helps make ’em famous.

ALDEN FOR J. CREW BLUCHERS Made in Massachusetts (since 1884) with an indestructible

8. THE KEYS TO THIS BEAST The lines of the 2016 Ford Mustang Shelby GT350R evoke those of classic Mustangs, but no Ford has ever felt like this. The company’s engineers set out to make a thoroughly modern car that seems vaguely dangerous. They succeeded: The GT350R gives up nothing to a BMW M4 and costs thousands less. ford.com

1959: Cary Grant shows the country how a suit should fit in North by Northwest.

leather upper and a soft plantation crepe sole for comfort and easy replaceability. Keep them polished and you’ll be passing them down to your kids. jcrew.com

1961: JFK brings a top hat to his inauguration but doesn’t wear it during his speech, relieving American men of the obligation to cover their heads while outdoors. men’s style

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~SUMMER ~

GROOMING SECRETS OF

THE AMERICAN MAN M a d e i n t h e U. S . A . P e r f e c t f o r m e n e v e r y w h e r e .

THE BEST $775 YOU CAN SPEND RIGHT NOW

THE QUINTESSENTIAL QU AMERICAN RESTAURANT: R IN SITU

1. Wahl stainless-steel clipper; wahl-store.com.

SCHOTT NYC COWHIDE A-2 FLIGHT JACKET

Chef Corey Lee, who Ch holds three

Good luck finding another leather jacket that’s hand-cut and union-made in the U. S. A. for well under $1,000. The A-2 is as American as it gets—a standard-issue item of the U. S. Air Force since 1931 and a favourite of hell-raisers and rock stars (or both; see Springsteen, B., below)— and Schott has been sewing its indestructible leather in this country since the company was founded in 1913. The waxed, pebbled cowhide ages like 2009 Bordeaux, and the trim silhouette evokes an era when the clothes fit the man in the literal sense. schottnyc.com

Michelin stars at 2. Kiehl’s Facial Fuel face wash kiehls.com.

3. Old Spice deodorant; drugstore.com.

5. C. O. Bigelow body wash; bigelowchemists.com.

the t unofficial food curator of the SFMoMA, reopened S new restaurant, In

THE

Situ, will re-create

American Style Reading List

dishes from more than 80 modern culinary masters—an insanely ambitious project you’d find only in the U. S. A. In preparation, Lee studied Gastón Acurio’s Peruvian ceviche and trekked to Hong Kong to master the sea urchin in lobster gelatin by Amber’s Richard Ekkebus.

His meticulous research means

Esquire’s Encyclopedia of 20th Century Men’s Fashions

The Official Preppy Handbook Because American style is, at its core, preppy style.

And because you haven’t lived until you’ve read “The Politics of Monogramming”

A BRIEF HISTORY OF AMERICAN STYLE

men’s style

San Francisco’s Benu, has become B

a year or so ago. His

Comprehensive (20 pages on the history and evolution of neckwear) and essential to the point that a lightly used copy fetches around $300, which is a bargain, if we do say so ourselves.

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4. Baxter of California soap; baxterofcalifornia.com.

Ametora: How Japan Saved American Style A fresh and fascinating look at American style through the lens of Japanese obsession—and a detailed explanation of how another culture beat us at our own game.

there’s no need to fly to Denmark to enjoy a dish of carrot, sour curd, and pickled pine, which In Situ borrows from the white-hot restaurant Amass. Take the cash you’ll save and spend it on a cult California cabernet instead.

(CONT’D.)

1973: Five American

1975: In Three Days of the

1984: Number-three

designers (including Oscar de la Renta and Bill Blass) versus five French designers (including Yves Saint Laurent and Givenchy) in a runway show; America wins.

Condor, Robert Redford proves that you can wear one outfit for an entire movie as long as every detail is perfect.

NBA draft pick Michael Jordan signs a $2.5 million contract with Nike. Critics gasp. A shoe is made.

You know the rest.

~SUMMER ~

HOMEGROWN

BAGGAGE

FILSON ROLLING CARRY-ON BAG It’s the rare roller that manages to look damn handsome without screaming “Steal me” as it makes the airport rounds. And like all Filson products, it’s made in Seattle and backed by a lifetime guarantee that covers workmanship, craftsmanship, and even failure of materials. filson.com

T H E A LWA Y S - S O M E T I M E S - N E V E R G U I D E T O

Dressing American

A LWAY S :

SOMETIMES:

NEVER:

The crewneck sweatshirt.

From Gene Kelly (above) to Brando to Jay Z, it never, ever lets us down.

Double denim. A top and bottom in contrasting shades of blue is the difference between cowboy chic and Canadian tuxedo.

Nonfunctional hats.

If you can stand to go without them, do.

T H E PA T R I O T I C B A R

THE QUINTESSENTIAL AMERICAN WATCH: ROLEX NO-DATE SUBMARINER

One knock on Rolex’s iconic Submariner is that a lot of men have it.

But many men also have opposable thumbs, because good design is good design. Another knock against it, at least for the “Buy American” crowd, is that it’s Swiss-made, which, while true, completely misses the point. With

illustrations by PETER OUMANSKI

MARK CROSS VINTAGE DUFFEL The company started as a saddle store in 1840s Boston, expanded into luxurious luggage, and closed shop in the 1990s.

When the brand relaunched in 2011, its design team discovered an archive ripe for raiding that included this elegant, enduring duffel, which we’re damn glad to have back. markcross1845.com

its sport-inspired functionality and clean, elegant lines,

MICHTER’S MICHTER’S SIN SINGLE-BARREL 1010-YEAR-OLD RA RAGTIME RYE

Thi batch of Michter’s This most sought-after rye mo turned 10 in 2015, but tur master distiller Willie Pratt let it rest for one more year. The result— sweet and spicy, with a wildly luxurious viscosity—is well worth the wait.

2007: Mad Men debuts and Don Draper single-handedly brings back ’60s-style fitted suits and skinny ties.

SNO SNOWDRIFT OWDRIFT ORC ORCHARD SEL SELECT CIDER

A far cry from saccharine ciders sacch marketed to sorority mark sisters, this stuff hails sister from central Washington Wa state and has the dry aroma of a good white wine and the rich flavour of Granny Smith apples, along with just enough booze.

CIRQ 2013 TREEHOUSE PINOT NOIR

What do you do when the wine you created with a buddy starts fetching four figures in the secondary market? If you’re Kosta Browne cofounder Michael Browne, you create another instant classic with plenty of verve and aging potential—for a totally reasonable price.

2014: President Obama gives a press conference on the Islamic State while wearing a tan summer suit. Critics charge it projects a lack of seriousness; the president remains cool and unflappable.

the Submariner is wholly American in spirit and styling.

Opt for the version without the date window, aka the cyclops. The 1953 original didn’t have it; neither should yours. rolex.com

2015: In his ultraviral “Hotline Bling” video, Drake takes turtlenecks back from Beat poets and Steve Jobs and makes them cool again.

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~SUMMER ~

B R I TA I N

FROM SAVILE ROW TO THE SCOTTISH ISLES, THE BEST OF BRITISH STYLE.

DESIGNER OF THE MOMENT

WHAT THE UK GAVE THE WORLD:

STRUCTURE

It is only when a suit fits, frames, and functions perfectly that a man’s character (and eccentricities) can truly shine F RO M LEF T: Michael Caine (in Get Carter), David Hockney, Oliver Reed, and Elton John fill out their suits in style.

STYLE YOURSELF

THE ASYMMETRICAL TIE KNOT: And it should be just a bit off-centre.

LIK E AN E N G L I S H M A N

T H E S L I G H T LY F R AY E D COLLAR/CUFFS: Worn in but not worn out.

R E G I M E N TA L S O C K S : Less visible than the regimental tie, yet you’re still showing your colours.

Oliver Spencer Spencer has hit an elusive London-fashion sweet spot: not too edgy, not too establishment. The man who started out selling secondhand clothes from a stall at Portobello Market now has an eponymous line of pieces that convey what he sees as the essence of English style.

Here’s what that means to him: “There isn’t such a thing as English style for men.

We’re eclectic; we’re a nation of individuals. You’ve got to keep a sense of humour to your clothe clothes.”

“If m my clothes have one attri attribute, it’s to be clever, to persuad suade people to dr dress out of their comfort zone zone, but not so fa far that it mak makes them feel ssilly.”

A BRIEF HISTORY OF BRITISH STYLE 1840: Tailors set up shop on Savile Row; Henry Poole, tailor to the Prince of Wales, is credited with introducing both the tuxedo and the smoking jacket.

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men’s style

1938: The British military develops the first iteration of the cargo pant, unwittingly sabotaging American fashion of the 1990s.

1944: While stationed in Burma with the British army, Nathan Clark sees off-duty officers wearing suede boots with crepe soles, brings the desert boot back to England.

~SUMMER ~

TH E EXT RA 10%:

Blighty Edition 3 7 T H E ( S U M M E R ) FA B R I C OF THIS NATION:

6

WAXED COTTON

1 4

5 2

1. DUNHILL CHASSIS 8CC BILLFOLD

From Britain’s original luxurygoods house, a brilliant hightech/low-tech mash-up of carbon-fiber-printed cowhide. dunhill.com 2. MATCHBOOK FROM LADY & HOUND

IT’S NO ACCIDENT that waxy weatherproofing was invented in a country that averages 45 inches of rain each year. In the 1920s, Barbour introduced a waxedcotton cape for equestrians and carriage drivers, which led to a motorcycle jumpsuit, a submarine suit, and the breathable waxed-cotton Barbour jackets we wear today. Thanks to lighter cottons and sharper tailoring, the version above is more wearable but every bit as waterproof. barbour.com

grained lambskin. smythson.com 4. DUNHILL SIDECAR FOUNTAIN PEN

Precious resin and palladium-plated brass for signing checks (and taking names) in style. dunhill.com

Hotelier André Balazs follows up his smash-hit Chiltern Firehouse hotel and restaurant with this perfect English pub.

5. THOMAS PINK BULLDOG CUFF LINKS

3. SMYTHSON NOTEBOOKS

6. CAMBRIDGE SATCHEL CO. KEY FOB

Because some notes don’t deserve to be buried in your iPhone. These are made with gilt-edged featherweight paper wrapped in cross-

Yes, that’s an embossed bike attached to car keys. It’s the thought that counts.

THE QUINTESSENTIAL ENGLISH SHOE: CHURCH’S BROGUES

What’s more English than English bulldogs? thomaspink.com

cambridgesatchel.com

1958: Paddington Bear debuts in his nowiconic blue British duffle coat. So begins a child’s education in English fashion.

Church’s (est. 1873 in Northampton, England) was the

7. THE KEYS TO A JAG Big Jaguars don’t sell in big numbers—but they drive like noth-

ing else. The 2016 XJL is the company’s largest offering; it floats down the road in a kind of glissade, wafting along with impeccable ride quality and a quiet, tasteful presence. Long luxury cars are usually best when you’re being chauffeured, but this one, with its creamy steering and liquid controls, begs to be driven.

first cobbler to differentiate between shoes for right and left feet, and not much has changed since the first pair came off the lasts. (This is a very good thing.) church-footwear.com

jaguarusa.com

1962: James Bond (in the person of Sean Connery) makes his entrance on the world stage with Dr. No. Men the world over begin mimicking his wardrobe.

1964: Beatlemania sweeps the world, along with slim-fitting suits, skinny ties, mod boots, and shaggy bowl cuts.

~SUMMER ~

GROOMING SECRETS OF

THE BRITISH MAN Made in the UK. Perfect for men everywhere.

THE BEST £700 YOU CAN SPEND RIGHT NOW

1. Mr. Natty lip salve; mrnatty.com.

2. Dunhill Icon cologne; dunhill.com.

3. Pankhurst London shaving cream; mrporter.com.

THE BELSTAFF ROADMASTER When this storied British brand relaunched in 2012, the changes to its Steve McQueen– endorsed outerwear were subtle but meaning ful. The fit of the Roadmaster, which had been blousy at best, was tightened up. The hardware became luxurious and sturdy.

Put another way: Belstaff managed to go luxe without going soft.

The current generation of Belstaffs (above, and below on David Beckham) are tough enough for tearing up country roads on a Triumph yet tailored enough for dinner in the city. belstaff.com

5. Molton Brown body wash; moltonbrown.com.

4. Mason Pearson comb; bigelowchemists.com.

THE QUINTESSENTIAL BRITISH RESTAURANT: CECCONI’S LONDON MAYFAIR Technically, it’s an

THE

Italian restaurant

British Style Reading List

within a stone's throw of London’s Savile Row, but the original location of Cecconi’s (now also in West Hollywood, Miami, Berlin, and Istanbul) hits a uniquely English high note of posh and relaxed. The dining room—open three meals a day, seven days a week—never lacks for stylish patrons who make excellent chat, whether you’re participating or just eavesdropping.

To close with

The Official Sloane Ranger Handbook

Today There Are No Gentlemen

The term Sloane refers to British yuppies of the 1980s, and this tome is the UK’s answer to The Official Preppy Handbook—sharper and funnier, like any good retort.

A clinical dissection of clothes as a symbol of class and social order, by Nik Cohn, the father of rock criticism himself.

A BRIEF HISTORY OF BRITISH STYLE 1972: David Bowie creates Ziggy Stardust, ushering in androgyny with eye makeup and dresses for men.

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men’s style

ABC of Men’s Fashion You’re probably familiar with the line “A man should look as if he has bought his clothes with intelligence, put them on with care, and then forgotten all about them.” This is where it came from.

a bit of British understatement: There are worse ways to start your day than with Cecconi’s smoked salmon and scrambled eggs.

(CONT’D.)

1977: The Sex Pistols’ “God Save the Queen” becomes the number-one single in the country.

Punk’s leather jackets, ripped jeans, safety pins, and padlock necklaces have a moment.

1998: Alexander McQueen’s spring/summer show, set to the theme of Earth, Wind, Fire, and Water, is crazy over-the-top and signals a new day for traditionally staid English fashion.

~SUMMER ~

Y E OL D E

T H E A LWA Y S - S O M E T I M E S - N E V E R G U I D E T O

BAG GAG E BAGGAGE

Dressing English

MULBERRY FOUR-WHEEL TROLLEY In America, you’d refer to this as a carry-on roller in canvas with leather trim. The British heritage brand Mulberry sees things differently, and packing your things inside “a trolley in mole Scotch grain with cognac trim” is guaranteed to elevate your vacation before you even leave the house. mulberry.com

A LWAY S :

SOMETIMES:

NEVER:

Tweed. Whether you’re hunting pheasant in the country or just trying to cover up a rumpled oxford, this fabric never fails.

Ascots. Don’t take yourself (or your accessories) too seriously, and you’ll be fine.

Derby hats. If it’s cold outside, we suggest a wool hat.

D R I N K B R I TA N N I A

THE QUINTESSENTIAL BRITISH WATCH: THE BREMONT ALT1-C CLASSIC

Bremont’s pilot and military watches, all hand-built in the UK, only look like they’ve been around for ages.

The brand was founded in 2002 by aviation-obsessed British brothers Nick and Giles English (yes, that’s their actual surname), who named their venture after a French farmer who offered them shelter when they

SMYTHSON BURLINGTON 48-HOUR TRAVEL BAG Yes, the famed notebook-maker also has a luggage line. And the bags display the same traits that have made its paper products famous: journeyworthy fabrication, attention to detail, and a seriously posh pedigree. smythson.com

made an emergency landing in his field.

Bremont subscribes to the timepiece-

TH BOTANIST THE IS ISLAY DRY GIN

M Made at the Bruichladdich Br whisky distillery, the wh Botanist is packed Bo with botanicals found wi on the Scottish Isle of Islay— such as white clover, heather flowers, and thyme.

2009: On the BBC’s Sherlock, Benedict Cumberbatch (left) wears a cool coat from Belstaff called the Milford, off-the-rack except for a red buttonhole, stitched in by the show’s costume designer.

R RIDGEVIEW B BLOOMSBURY E ENGLAND BRUT

W What happens when global warming turnss gl the region of Champagne th gne into a tropical swamp?? in Look L k across the Channel to Ridgeview’s mineral-driven sparkling whites and rosés.

MAD HATTER CLUB TROP TROPICANA

The British Br craft-beer scene—especially scene— Liverpool, where this in Live crisp, floral Berliner Weisse hails from—is working overti overtime to change the perception that all UK beer is warm, flat ale.

2012: The inaugural London Fashion Week: Men kicks off and joins other world capitals as a major stop on the global fashion-show circuit.

as-tool philosophy of watchmaking, producing steel and titanium cases sturdy enough to survive motoring, sailing, and even emergency landings of your own. bremont.com

2016: Burberry fires the first shot in a fashion revolution by announcing that the trench coats et al. presented in its runway shows will be immediately available for purchase by the consumer. men’s style

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~SUMMER ~

I TA LY

ADVICE AND INSPIRATION FROM THE COUNTRY THAT DOES IT BEST.

DESIGNER OF THE MOMENT

WHAT ITALY GAVE THE WORLD:

LIGHTNESS

Massimo Alba

As well as elegance and permission to care deeply aboutt clothes while looking like you couldn’t care less

One of Milan’s finest menswear designers, Alba brings an intellectual approach to design, making clothes that showcase his refined aesthetic and sophisticated techniques.

The thoroughly modern result blends the romantic Italian sensibility with gentlemanly casualness (see below). Here, the designer weighs in on the state of Italian style today.

FRO M LEFT: Alessandro Squarzi; Brunello Cucinelli; Lapo Elkann and his legendary grandfather, Gianni Agnelli—avatars of Italian fashionability, past and present.

THE SECRETS OF

ITALIAN STYLE

SUNGLASSES IN THE BREAST POCKET:

S W E AT E R O N T H E SHOULDERS:

May we suggest Persols?

The thinner the cashmere, the better.

“Once, Italy was very famous for handmade shoes, shirts, and suits. Gentlemen wore bespoke suits. Today, this is a niche. I don’t feel part of it. Men tod shouldn’t be day o overdressed— it cliché. I it’s re really like d double-breaste jackets, but I ed w wear them with a turtleneck or a sweatshirt or a T-shirt and v very light cord duroy trousers.”

S O C K L E S S N E S S: * As soon—and for as long—as the weather allows.

*THE NO-SWEAT GUIDE TO GOING SOCKLESS ALTERNATE between two or more pairs of

shoes. Your feet have 250,000 sweat glands; your shoes take 24 to 48 hours to dry after a day of wear. Unvarnished cedar shoe trees go a long way when it comes to shape retention and odour prevention.

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men’s style

USE disposable insoles. Don’t just stick them in and forget about them— change them every two weeks, at a minimum.

KEEP your feet dry. Don’t want trench foot? Skip clumpy powders and use a foot-specific antiperspirant spray such as Klima Surefoot Spray (amazon. com), which lasts for several days.

~SUMMER ~

TH E EXTRA 10% :

Edizione Italiana T H E ( S U M M E R ) FA B R I C OF THIS NATION:

6 4

2 1

ALBINI GROUP COTTON EVEN IF ALBINI—MAKER OF award-winning Italian

3 5

1. BRUNELLO CUCINELLI POCKET SQUARE

Even the smallest scrap of cotton from the king of cashmere is as luxe as his legendary sweaters. brunellocucinelli.com 2. TOD’S KEY CHAIN

The valet ring is essential for the man who likes others to do his parking for him. tods.com 3. PERSOL SUNGLASSES

A foldable marvel of Italian engineering, the PO9714S model from Persol has been

concealing movie stars from the paparazzi since the Stone Age. Just think what it can do for you. sunglasshut.com

THE QUINTESSENTIAL ITALIAN SHOE: TOD’S CAP-TOE

4. PERONI LAGER

Cool, crisp, and frothy: It’s the antidote to European summer—and, really, any summer—heat.

5. SALVATORE FERRAGAMO WALLET

Since 1927, the company has learned a few things about age-worthy leather products; your money will be safe with them. ferragamo.com

shirting fabrics since 1876—had never made a single corporate acquisition, it would still occupy this spot. In 1992, however, the company purchased Thomas Mason, a British mill favoured by the Royal Family, and acquired an extensive archive of samples dating back to the late 1700s, thus becoming an international shirting powerhouse. For the finest cloths and the most interesting patterns, look no further. albinigroup.com

Run by the Della Valle family for nearly 40 years, Tod’s first achieved global recognition

6. THE KEYS TO THIS BEAUTY. Alfa Romeo is owned by

Fiat, and when this Alfa 4C Spider was designed, Ferrari was also owned by Fiat. In a rare instance of corporate synergy actually working out for everyone involved, the folks at Ferrari helped their brethren at Alfa create the twin-clutch transmission of this 237-hp roadster. The end result resembles nothing so much as a miniature Ferrari. alfaromeousa.com

with its Gommino driving loafers in the 1970s. The company has since reigned supreme with all manner of painstakingly crafted leather shoes. tods.com

A BRIEF HISTORY OF ITALIAN STYLE 1526: Beretta begins making firearms, adding clothing and accessories to its roster a few hundred years later. It remains one of the oldest manufacturing corporations in the world.

1528: Baldassare Castiglione publishes The Book of the Courtier and introduces the world to the word sprezzatura.

1850: The country’s first tailoring shop, Castangia, opens for business in Sardinia and soon receives a royal warrant from the ruling Savoys that still to this day appears on its labels. men’s style

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~SUMMER ~

GROOMING SECRETS OF

THE ITALIAN MAN M a d e i n I ta l y. P e r f e c t f o r m e n e v e r y w h e r e .

THE BEST €800 YOU CAN SPEND

2. Etro 2 Ettro shower gel; osswa osswaldnyc.com.

3 3. Acqua di Colonia Santa Maria Novella cologne; buy.smnovella.com.

4. Acqua ua di Parma aftershave m; balm; .com. barneys.com.

THE NEW QUINTESSENTIAL QUI SUMMER SCENT: SUM ACQUA DI A SALE

THE L.B.M. 1911 BLAZER This jacket checks every conceivable box when it comes to seasonal essentials: It’s cut in a trim fit from fabric made exclusively in northern Italian mills; it’s garmentdyed for a softer feel and richer colour; it’s unlined (because less is more this time of year); and the pattern is a light windowpane that keeps things interesting. All together, it will serve you well for many, many summers—for well under $1,000.

1. Prorah i g so shaving cream; bigelowchemists. com.

5. Marvis Jasmin mint toothpaste; bigelowchemists.com.

6. Santa Maria Novella face cream; mrporter.com.

For autumn and winter, we’re all for smoky, piney fragrances that suit the cold weather and

THE

gray skies. But come

Italian Style Reading List

summer, why not embrace a lighter, brighter scent that actually smells like the season?

Acqua di Sale, concocted by the Italian alchemists at ProFumum Roma, smells like summer in a way that could offset any bout of seasonal affective disorder.

The combination of cedar, salt, and seaweed—not the decaying or sushiwrap variety— gives the distinct olfactory impression of a perfect beach day, complete with faint sunburn and

The Book of the Courtier

Slim Aarons: La Dolce Vita

The 16th-century treatise on manners, morals, and how to be a man. (For more, see “The Spritz,” page 99.)

The legendary photographer captures the good life in scenes of luxury in mid- to late-20thCentury society.

A BRIEF HISTORY OF ITALIAN STYLE 1860: Officine Panerai is founded in Florence and eventually becomes the watch supplier to the Italian Navy.

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men’s style

William Klein: Rome

less faint buzz. Think

When a Fellini film gets delayed, 28-year-old photographer Klein kills time shooting in Rome.

This is the result.

preview when you’re

of it as a sensory stuck in seaside traffic. osswaldnyc.com

(CONT’D.)

1910: Ermenegildo Zegna opens a textile mill in Trivero.

1930: Vincenzo Attolini perfects a jacket inspired

by Savile Row but with-out any padding or canvassing, unwittingly launching Italian men’s fashion 30 years ahead of everyone else.

~SUMMER ~

THE PLEA:

Give Us the Vespa PX

Priced to move (in Europe) for a cool 3,800 euros.

The Vespas you see in America look, well, American: aggressive, musclewe bound, slightly overfed. This is not bou true of the Vespa PX, which the tru company offered in a selection of com limited-edition colours, including lim

BISTECCA TAGLIATA:

pale blue, to celebrate the a killer ki brand’s Settantesimo, or 70th bra anniversary. One problem: The ann PX’s two-stroke doesn’t meet U. S. PX’

STEAK SALAD, ITALIAN STYLE

emissions standards. A plea to em Vespa’s parent company, Piaggio: Ves Get with the environmental program and give us the PX. pro

In which grilled meat meets fresh greens for a foolproof, recipe-free molto Italiano summer classic.

Grazie Mille, Italia!

1. Grill a well-seasoned steak of your choice (buy the best you can afford) to the temperature of your choosing.

FOR THESE BEAUTIES AND SO MANY MORE

2. While the meat takes a 10-minute rest, dress a platter of arugula with fresh lemon juice and extra-virgin olive oil. How much of each? Entirely up to you.

3. Slice the steak against the grain and distribute the meat and its juices over the arugula.

4. Finish with shavings of honest-to-God Parmigiano-Reggiano. Do not cut corners when it comes to authentic Italian cheese.

5. Open wine. Eat. And leave the one dish you dirtied for tomorrow.

Loren, S.

1934: Giorgio Armani is born. Forty-some years later, menswear changes forever.

Cardinale, C.

1947: Emilio Pucci rises to fame after designing streamlined ski outfits for himself and his socialite friends.

Bellucci, M.

Bruni, C.

1948: Director Vittorio De Sica becomes an icon of Naples tailoring with his perfectly fitted suits.

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97

~SUMMER ~

POSTCARDS FROM

PEACOCK SQUARE Population: too many

IT’S NO COINCIDENCE that the

epicentre of global men’s street style is an oblong concrete area, about 30 by 20 metres, slap-bang outside the main building of the most illustrious men’s-clothing trade fair. It’s the biannual Pitti Immagine Uomo in Florence, and for 45 years, it’s been the fulcrum of new ideas and old ideas emanating from the (mainly) Italian brands.

In January and June, for four extremely neatly dressed days, that tennis-court-sized piazza, once merely a place to get outside for a five-minute breather, a cigarette, or a phone call, becomes ground zero for what may be the highest expression of sartorial performance art. Variously named by menswear aficionados—and with varying degrees of affection—the Cock Pit (sic), Peacock Square, and DB Central, it has in the past five years become a mecca for overdressed young men (and old ones, too) with a hankering to be blogged or Instagrammed. Taking cues no doubt from their Renaissance past (see right), the “pigeons” bust out poses to show off the cut of their tight jackets, pitch dangerously rakish angles with the broad brims of their fedoras, and prop one foot up on a low wall to offer the perfect angle on their double-monk-straps. A glut of photographers is ready to photograph anything that moves and everything that doesn’t.

That this happens in Italy, in bourgeois-minded Florence, even, is hardly a surprise, and if there were a recipe to make a scene, it would go something like this: Combine in a bowl equal parts the Italian notions bella figura (“good appearance”); la passeggiata, the civic propensity to go preening about town at sunset in your Sunday best; and sprezzatura, that old and molto-misunderstood chestnut that has been quickly inverted from its original meaning (appearing not to care

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men’s style

mo to handpick men at the show we thought are getting it right and stick them in front of a camera, but a safe distance away from the Cock Pit. What we found (see the best of the bunch, above) was a definite resettling of the instruments. There’s still a strongly Italian sense of elegance, and still a focus on casual tailoring, but there’s a bit more restraint and sophistication to it. In Peacock Square, as in life, sometimes less really is more.

— N I C K S U L L I VA N

THE REAL PEACOCKS OF RENAISSANCE ITALY

A BRIEF HISTORY OF ITALIAN STYLE 1951: Florentine buying agent Giovanni Battista Giorgini takes Italian designs international when he opens his home to U. S. retailers such as Bergdorf Goodman.

about your appearance) to something else altogether (appearing not to think about anything else). Then throw in a large dollop of socialmedia opportunities and it’s no wonder it thrives.

But the truth is it’s all getting a bit much—you begin to wonder what legitimate purpose these men have here, and where is this all going? In an effort to find answers, or rather solutions, to these (de)pressing questions, Esquire teamed up with Pitti Immagine Uo-

If you want to understand why Italian men look richer, healthier, and annoyingly more attractive than the rest of us, you have to go way, way back. Witness these early street-style shots (okay, paintings) by Giovanni Battista Moroni (c. 1525–78 ), whose subjects were bluebloods and the well-to-do. The key to looking good, then as now, is a strong posture. It’s how you stand, how you sit, what you do with your hands: Your bearing should convey both latent power and a certain deliberate nonchalance. Even if you are having your portrait painted.

—N. S.

(CONT’D.)

1954: Italian team climbs K2 wearing Moncler jackets.

1960s: Fiat head Gianni Agnelli rocks a permanently askew tie to match his watch-over-cuff.

~SUMMER ~

royal attendants of that gilded era embodied. For Castiglione, sprezzatura was a definitive pillar of true art—to work so hard at something that its beauty, to the beholder, appeared easy, agile, blithe. It was, in essence, the art of concealing art’s design.

A GUIDE TO

SPEAKING ITALIAN TAILORING

THE CLASSIC SPRITZ • 2 oz bitter liqueur* • 3 to 4 oz prosecco

SO MANY GOOD BRANDS COMING OUT OF ITALY THESE DAYS. SOME SO HARD TO PRONOUNCE.

• 2 oz soda water

Today the word has taken on a more colloquial meaning. It’s often tossed around in reference to details of

Build the ingredients in a rocks or wineglass, over ice, and add the garnish.

E RMENEGILDO Z EGNA : Air-men-eh-jill-doh Zen-yah

rakish sophistication—

THE QUINTESSENTIAL I TA L I A N C O C K TA I L :

*Aperol is the most

squares, oxfords worn

widely available bitter

without socks, the perfect

liqueur; it is also the

five o’clock stubble.

sweetest. If you prefer

Sprezzatura played no part

a more bracingly bitter

in the naming of spritz, the

spritz, try splitting Aperol

K ITON :

drink—a user-friendly mix

with Campari (one to

Key-tun

of bitter liqueur, sparkling

SPRITZ

wine, and soda water. But it’s not hard to see the

A drink and a lesson on the finer points of Italian style

C ESARE A T TOLINI :

imperfectly folded pocket

Chay-sa-ray Att-oh-lini

I SAIA : Ee-sigh-ee-uh

one). And if you can find

F INAMORE :

them, Contratto Aperitif, Contratto Bitter, Mauro

Feen-uh-more-ay

Vergano Americano, and

throughline between the

Cappelletti Aperitivo

essence of effortless Italian

B OGLIOLI :

Americano are four

Bo-lee-oh-lee

style and an Italian cocktail

excellent aperitivo

whose appeal rests on a

bitters.

E IDOS :

kind of I-woke-up-like-this

Ee-dos

THE ITALIAN WORD

author Baldassare

beauty and ease. The spritz

Excerpt from Spritz:

sprezzatura doesn’t have an

Castiglione in The Book

really is sprezzatura itself,

Italy’s Most Iconic

L UBIAM :

exact English translation.

of the Courtier (1528),

and for a quick and easy

Aperitivo Cocktail, with

Lou-bee-am

Coined in the early 16th

sprezzatura implied the

way to mix one up, look no

century by Renaissance

sort of effortless grace that

further.

TH E R EGI ON AL ACCENTS OF

Recipes, by Talia Baiocchi and Leslie Pariseau

P IOMBO :

(Ten Speed Press).

Pee-um-bo

Italian Tailoring

LO CAT I O N

T H E STANDAR D - B E AR E RS

TH E S I GN ATU R E D E TAI L

T HE LOCA L ICON

Rome

Brioni

Light, sharp, sober, but fully canvassed.

Marcello Mastroianni

Naples

Isaia

The Neapolitan shoulder, slightly rounded with subtle puckers in the cloth.

Very little internal structure.

Enrico Caruso

Milan

Ermenegildo Zegna

Contemporary fashion firmly rooted in a tailored tradition.

Luchino Visconti

1963: John F. Kennedy wears a suit by Roman designer Angelo Litrico.

1965: Explorer

1978: Gianni Versace

Walter Bonatti scales the Matterhorn, proving you can look much cooler doing outdoorsy things in plaid than in Gore-Tex.

launches his first clothing line in Milan, often using a Medusa’s head in his designs.

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~SUMMER ~

WATCH AND LEARN:

The Most Stylish Italian Films of All Time

THE ITALIAN CLOSET: A PRIMER

SHIRT: camicia (kah-mee-chah)

SUIT: abito (ah-bee-toh)

JACKET: LA STRADA (1954)

ROCCO AND HIS BROTHERS (1960)

giacca (jahk-kah)

PANTS: pantaloni (pahn-tah-loh-nee)

SHOES: scarpe (skahr-peh)

8 1 /2 ( 1 9 6 3 )

L A D O L C E V I TA ( 1 9 6 0 )

BATHING SUIT: costume da bagno (kohs-too-meh dah bah-nyoh)

TIE: cravatta (krah-vaht-tah)

JEANS: jeans (jeans) THE CONFORMIST (1970)

T H E G R E AT B E A U T Y ( S E E B E L O W )

A BRIEF HISTORY OF ITALIAN STYLE 1980s: Everyone— especially Richard Gere in American Gigolo— loves the neutral colors of Giorgio Armani’s power suits.

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men’s style

(CONT’D.)

2013: In Oscar-winning Italian drama The Great Beauty, actor Toni Servillo makes a canary-yellow jacket by Cesare Attolini (son of Vincenzo) and a ruffled pink pocket square seem cool and wearable.

2014: Giorgio Armani criticizes the style of Matteo Renzi, Italy’s then prime minister, saying he should wear ties more often and look to President Obama for fashion inspiration.

~SUMMER ~

LA DOLCE

T H E A LWA Y S - S O M E T I M E S - N E V E R G U I D E

To Italian Style

BAGGA B AGGA G E

THE PIQUADRO BLUE SQUARE TROLLEY No disrespect to carbon fiber or any of the other miracle materials that make up most rolling bags, but sometimes you just want to stick with leather. Piquadro gave this rolling “trolley” a burnished calfskin exterior (complete with hand-painted blue trim; hence the name) and plenty of hidden engineering to keep things durable. piquadro.com

A LWAY S :

SOMETIMES:

The blazer.

NEVER:

Nautical stripes.

The tracksuit.

THE QUINTESSENTIAL ITALIAN WATCH: PANERAI LUMINOR 8 DAYS It’s the Barolo of

S A LU T E ! T H E I TA L I A N BA R

the watch world— big and assertive on first impression, with subtlety and elegance to spare below the surface. Giovanni Panerai opened his watchmaker’s shop and watchmaking school in 1860 and got his start supplying timepieces to Italian commandos. It wasn’t until the action stars of the 1980s (Stallone et al.) started wearing

THE VALEXTRA CABINA WEEKEND BAG It’s not just great Italian tailoring that thrives from a lack off structure: Valextra’s soft, supple take on a weekender is all curvess and quiet luxury. Thee specially designed sidee zip allows for easier access to your cargo when you’re carrying the bag underarm. valextra.com

them that the rest of the world began

FRANK FRAN NK CORNELISSEN CONT CONTADINO

A Belg Belgian wine broker moved to Sicily’s Mount Etna region r and, with no formal training and no forma chemical intervention chemi whatsoever, whatsoever p produces wines (including this excellent entry-level red) that are both beautifully structured and shockingly alive.

CYNAR CY YNAR 70 PROOF

GRAPPA GR RAPPA NONINO

recognizing the signature bridge device that protects

Ev Everyone’s favourite artichoke amaro (which ar tastes less like artichokes ta than a combination th of orange peel, bitter herbs, and wild honey) he now com comes in a supercharged 70-proof version. It can hold its own in any cocktail and also does a nice turn with sparkling water and ice.

Fo Forget about most of the “grappa” you’ve tried and yo hated over the years. ha Real grappa—and Re Grappa Nonino, Gr from the makers ma of the famous amaro, is as real as it gets—is fragrant and complex with the flavours of the wine grapes it’s made from.

the winding crown.

The modern Panerai maintains its wartime utilitarian charm, but its new in-house movements (with an eight-day power reserve) are anything but blunt instruments. panerai.com

MADE IN ITALY? IT PAYS TO MAINTAIN IT

How to handle your investments with care, if they’re made of . . .

Linen:

(Lightweight Summer) Cashmere:

Italian Cotton:

Wash by hand in cold water with mild detergent, gently squeeze water out, and lay the item flat to dry. Sure, you can use an iron to steam it out, but why did you buy linen if you don’t like wrinkles?

Wash it by hand only with gentle soap and cold water— no dry cleaning, no machine. Gently squeeze the material to remove the water, then lay it flat on a towel to dry. Never iron it directly.

Machine wash (gentle). Hang to dry.

Iron. Period.

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101

COV E R

C O L I N FA R R E L L Photography MICHAEL MULLER/ C P I S Y N D I C AT I O N / H E A D P R E S S

PEAK OF HIS POWERS Now in his early 40s, Colin Farrell has left his firebrand ways behind to become an even more accomplished actor with an amazing array of roles under his belt.

By Michael Pickering.

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men’s style

Hemsworth as he appears in the new Boss Bottled ‘Man Of Today’ campaign.

COV E R

C O L I N FA R R E L L

i

F YOU EVER FREQUENTED legendary Sydney watering hole the Judgement Bar in Taylor Square in the early 1990s, chances are you may have shared elbow-bending room alongside a charismatic, good-looking young Irishman with coal-coloured eyes and hair to match.

He may have introduced himself as “Colin”, which would have meant nothing to you at the time, because a famous Irishman with that name and look was still a few years off.

This Colin, 17 years old, was here “for the fuck of it”, drinking “with the reprobates” in the Judgement, working in a bank and living in a unit off Oxford Street.

“I hadn’t even finished school and they put me in a bank,” Colin Farrell told the Sydney Morning Herald in 2012 while recalling his brief time living in Sydney in 1993. It was a short but eventful time. Farrell also took his first steps into acting in Sydney, via a play at The Performance Space in Redfern, and was also taken into police custody for suspected murder because he resembled an identikit photo, as he told US Tonight Show host Jimmy Fallon in 2015.

All of it must seem a world away now for Farrell, who at 41 has achieved an impressively diverse body of work in films while leading what has been a self-confessed rollicking lifestyle.

Released here as this issue goes on sale, The Killing Of A Sacred Deer is Farrell’s latest film, reuniting him with director Yorgos Lanthimos with whom he made The Lobster in 2015.

The new film sees Farrell playing renowned cardiovascular surgeon Dr Steven Murphy, whose controlled, orderly life begins to unravel due to the actions of a teenage boy (played by

men’s style

105

COV E R

C O L I N FA R R E L L

‘Colin Farrell has been pretty great for a long time… working with challenging directors who bring out different edges of his ability even this late into his career.’

COV E R

C O L I N FA R R E L L

fellow Irish actor Barry Keoghan) who Murphy takes under his wing only to see him slowly reveal a past transgression by Farrell’s character.

“With uniformly great performances throughout the cast and Lanthimos’ stunning eye for detail and composition, this is one of the most unforgettable films of the year,” enthused reviewer Brian Tallerico on rogerebert.com.

“It feels like we’re finally at a time when we can recognize that Colin Farrell has been pretty great for a long time, choosing to work with challenging directors who bring out different edges of his ability even this late into his career.

He’s phenomenal here, finding the shades of a man whose greatest sin may be his refusal to admit he’s only human…”

Colin Farrell has been pretty great for a long time. It’s a manifestly true statement, when you look back at the breadth of roles Farrell has taken on and how he always finds a way to make his part of the screen compelling and eminently watchable. From his first acting breakthrough on TV’s Ballykissangel to his early movies in the States – Tigerland, Hart’s War, American Outlaws, Minority Report and Phone Booth – there was an intensity and sometimes manic energy which wedded to his darkly handsome masculinity made him hard to take your eyes off.

That watchability quickly saw him upgraded to blockbuster territory – as Alexander the Great in Oliver Stone’s Alexander in 2004 and Sonny Crockett in Michael Mann’s 2006 big-screen reprise of Miami Vice (a film Farrell regards as a “missed opportunity”). Perhaps the equivocating reviews and mediocre box office of both made him turn that trajectory on its head by playing hitman Ray in Martin McDonagh’s smaller scale In Bruges (2008) – one of his most memorable roles. And so it continued – his comedic turn with a comb-over as Bobby Pellit in Horrible Bosses, as Detective Ray Velcoro in cult pay series True Detective, and as Graves in Fantastic Beasts And Where To Find Them.

If not everything he’s done has been a certifiable success, Farrell’s career CV is undeniably fascinating, and presages a middle age where he can play an enormous variety of interesting character roles, given

‘I hike, I bring the kids to school and I go to the movies … It would be tragic if I were behaving otherwise.’ the chance. The CV is backgrounded by an equally fascinating, much-documented life – a famous hellraiser during his early years in the US, he has spoken numerous times about his battles with various types of addiction and, in more recent years, about how he gave up the drink and slowly matured into a clean-living practitioner of yoga and present father to his sons James and Henry.

“I have a fairly low-key life,” he told Ireland’s Sunday Independent in 2015. “I hike, I bring the kids to school and I go to the movies. It’s no big deal. You’re a father of two and you’re 40 years of age. It would be tragic if I were behaving otherwise.”

It’s part of the resonance of the roles Farrell plays – a man as honest about his own flaws as Farrell has been finds a way to imbue his characters with a depth and human frailty the audience can relate to and love. And because he’s Irish, that’s perhaps truer of his Australian fans than most, the two nationalities sharing heritage, humour and passionate natures.

“I’m just a true Irish boy at heart,” Farrell once said. “I’m just myself, I stick by my guns and I treat people the way I think they should be treated, regardless of their status. And I just have a laugh.”

men’s style

109

Christmas

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FA S H I O N P HOT HO O GRAP HOTO GR P HY GRA H STY T L ING NG G

M IN MIN I G N OMC M C HON MC ONG ONG

KIM K KI IM PA P Y YN YNE NE N

GRO O O M ING NG G

TEN TE EN N EIL E IL L LE LLE L E SO SOR O G GIO I OVA IO VAN A N NII

C a s u a l a n d l o o s e c a n s t i l l m e a n o n p o i n t s ty l e when it comes to your Summer dressing.

112

men’s style

Le Left eft e ft to to righ rig igh ght: ght: gh t: Ac Ace wea Ace arrs s Need ed e dE Ess Es ss senti ent nt a als sw we wet ettsuit su sui uit , u $21 $210 210 2 10 0, a an n nd d ca c rrie rri rie ries s Vint Vin ntage age ag JS S Sur S fboa Su boa bo oa o ard, ard, r POA rd POA; PO OA; OA O A; Ash As sh wear wear wea ars N Ne Need Nee eed d Ess Es entials ent enti nti tials ti ls s we uit, wet wets uiit, uit t $2 $2 $21 210 0, and d carri arr rrr es es Gato Gato t Her He e oi oi Chop ho hop op p Op p9 9’6 ’’6 6 Surf Sur urrfboa urf rffb boa boar oa arrd d,, $1, 1,75 1,755, 1,7 1,75 75 55 5,, ffrom rom om o m Wild W d Thi Th h ngs; ngs ng g Taj Ta aj wea we we ea ars rs Nc N Nche c Sur S urrf w wet wets etsuit, etsuit, u $44 uit $44 440, 0, 0, an and nd carr nd ca car arrriies a es G Gat Ga Gato ato to Her He He Heroi ero oii Twi Twin Tw win w iin 5 5’5 5 sur su s urrfboa u fbo bo boa board oa ard rd $1,1 rd, $11 145. $ 45 45 5.

Ash wears Barney Cools shirt, $89.95.

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men’s style

Taj w Ta Taj wear wea earrs Pr ea Pra Prad P rad rra ada jack ad ack a cke ck ett, et, t, $2, $ $2 $2,3 2,,3 2 2,3 37 70, 70 0 0, shir sh shi hirt hir irrtt,, $1,08 1,,08 08 0 80, 0, and nd shor sh s sho hor ho orrts o ts, s, $4 s $47 $470 $ 470, and ca 47 4 carrie rrie iie es Vint Vin V int ntage nt ag ge JS ge JS su sur s urfbo u fb fboa bo o rrd, rd d d, POA. POA PO OA. A. A

Ace (left) wears Lacoste polo, $249, and shorts, $199; Ash (centre) wears Lacoste polo, $229, and shorts, $199; Barney Cools tee, $49.95; Taj (right) wears Lacoste polo, $229, and COS shorts, $69.

Taj wears Gucci sweater, $2,395, and jeans, $1,205.

Ash wears Double Rainbouu sweater, $420, and Paul Smith jeans, $220.

Below: Ace wears Paul Smith sweater, $930, and Barney Cools jeans, $149.95.

men’s style

119

Ash wears Mr P Private Label sweater, $470, from Mr Porter Porter;; Paul Smith scarf, $327, and shorts, $257.

Paul Smith jacket, $1,700, shirt, $265, pants, $495, and scarf, $160.

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men’s style

Ace wears Barney Cools zip jacket, $129.95, and Le Specs sunglasses, $79.95.

Left to right: Taj wears Need Essentials zip top, $100, and Paul Smith trunks, $216. Ash wears The Upside trunks, $129. Ace wears Double Rainbouu trunks, $129.

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men’s style

This picture, left to right: Ace wears Country Road trunks, $99.95.

Taj wears Brooks Brothers trunks, $109. Ash wears Academy Brand trunks, $69.95.

men’s style

123

Both wear Polaroid sunglasses, $120; Double Rainbouu shirts, $199 each.

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men’s style

Ace (left) wears Quiksilver wetsuit, $329.99; Vintage JS surfboard, POA from Wild Things. Taj (right) wears Nche Surf wetsuit, $440; Gato Heroi Twin 5’5 surfboard, $1,145, from Wild Things.

men’s style

125

FEA AT TURE

ULTIMATE SUMMER STREAMING GUIDE

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men’s style

GODS & MONSTERS

A

B

C

D

Michael Adams sorts

summertime viewing with a run-down of the best offerings on the main streaming services.

I

n this Golden Age Of

A

American Gods

C

The Good Place

Television you’ve got a

(AMAZON)

(NETFLIX)

near-infinite supply of

Amazon’s ultra-high-definition delivery is

From Michael Schur, creator of Brooklyn Nine

quality entertainment at

spectacularly showcased in this adaptation of

Nine, The Good Place has the cheery afterlife

Neil Gaiman’s beloved novel of the same name.

administered by beatific Ted Danson, with

your fingertips. But the tyranny

Ian McShane is on comically gruff form as Mr

Kristen Bell finding herself a resident after she’s

of choice – that same analysis-

Wednesday, the modern incarnation of Odin,

killed in a stooopid accident. Problem is, she

paralysis you used to get in ye

who reveals to recent jailbird Shadow Moon

was a total fuck-up on Earth and she actually

olde video store – can lead to you

that our world is about to be ripped apart in

belongs in The Bad Place. Slow-burn comedy

a war between the new and old gods. While it

ensues as she tries to hide her sinful status,

sounds like stock-standard superhero stuff, this

with the show hitting its stride when she’s

than streaming. So, to streamline

has heart-rending and head-scratching layers

outed. From there a cracking twist launches us

your screening, here are the best

at every turn.

into the increasingly great season two.

spending more time scrolling

binge-worthy offerings for those long summer afternoons…

B

Stranger Things

D

Santa Clarita Diet

(NETFLIX)

(NETFLIX)

This 1980s-set series invokes the two Steves –

Don’t be put off by the title. Drew Barrymore and

King and Spielberg – who were that decade’s

Timothy Olyphant star as a sunny Californian

defining genre geniuses. Winona Ryder is the

realtor couple whose white-bread dream turns

distraught mum of a tween who goes missing,

blood-spattered nightmare when she suddenly

with his best mates and a strange young girl

dies a vomiting mess during an open house.

trying to bring him back from… beyond. Think

Except that she doesn’t die-die. Perky-happy

Firestarter meets Poltergeist by way of E.T. and

Drew is now a zombie who needs human meat

you’re in for a supernatural treat that’s funny

to survive, with Tim at his droll-comic best trying

and frightening while feeling new and nostalgic.

to feed her appetites. The last few minutes of the first episode are howlingly funny, and the show lives up to that promise in season one.

men’s style

127

ULTIMATE SUMMER STREAMING GUIDE

COMIC COPS & CRIMS

GODS & MONSTERS

A

A

C

B

D

The Tick

C

Brooklyn Nine Nine

E

E

Swedish Dicks

(NETFLIX)

( S TA N )

British comic Peter Serafinowicz is the

Straighter than Angie Tribeca but every bit as

This eccentric half-hour comedy has Peter

gormless but indestructible titular bug-

funny, this cult sitcom is getting so popular

Stormare as Ingmar Andersson, a Swedish

man, who insists on taking a nervy nerd as

that its fifth season is shaping up as a legit

former stuntman-turned-private investigator

his partner. In a world of gritty superhero

mainstream hit. Andy Samberg heads an

who reluctantly takes on a partner in Axel,

reboots, The Tick stands out as winningly

ensemble cast of clueless cops working

Johan Glans’ hopeless Swedish DJ. Together,

good-natured and genuinely funny while

NYC’s hippest borough. Great characters

they are the Swedish Dicks, investigating

serving up violent action thrills.

with self-contained and season-long stories

oddball cases in scuzzy LA, competing with

make this a keeper – and even a good

fierce PI rival (played by former porn star,

rewatcher.

Traci Lords) and haunted by Ingmar’s former

(AMAZON)

B

Black Mirror

(NETFLIX)

Over three seasons Charlie Brooker’s twist-

D

Angie Tribeca

stunt partner (Keanu Reeves). Best watched with vodka and Ikea meatballs.

in-the-tale anthology series has maintained

( S TA N )

quality rage at the promises, pitfalls and

Rashida Jones is Angie Tribeca, a tough

paradoxes of the Internet Age. If you’re a

female detective with a soft spot for

newbie, start with the infamous pig-fucking

her current partner while also pining for

Imagine the pitch meeting for this one: let’s

episode from season one. But the best

her missing cop lover… Sergeant Pepper,

recreate a fictional 1980s Romanian buddy

episode yet is season three’s ‘San Junipero’,

played by James Franco. As you’ve probably

cop show then present it as a rediscovered

about a [spoiler alert] that’s actually

gathered, this ain’t CSI: Los Angeles but

real show dubbed by Hollywood’s A-list.

[redacted]. It deservedly scooped the pool

instead so-dumb-it’s-smart verbal and visual

Mastermind Channing Tatum told his writers

at this year’s Emmy Awards.

slapstick in the vein of Flying High and The

to come up with the worst ideas they could,

Naked Gun. Not all of the jokes land but they

write the scripts in English, translate them

come so thick and fast you’ll be laughing

into Romanian, film the series there with local

non-stop nonetheless.

actors and retranslate to English for dubbing

F

Comrade Detective

(NETFLIX)

by C-Tates, Joseph Gordon-Levitt, and others. The result is a very funny satire.

128

men’s style

STAND-UPS & SIT-DOWNS

F

G

H

A lot of blokes shy away from this women’s prison drama – don’t.

Orange Is The New Black G

(NETFLIX)

A lot of blokes have shied away from this women’s prison drama. Don’t – it’s compelling, funny and moving stuff, even as the most recent fifth season, which takes place over three days during a riot, becomes a cartoonish tragi-comedy.

Jerry Before Seinfeld (NETFLIX)

Louis CK: 2017 (NETFLIX)

If you missed his recent Australian tour, here’s

Whoa, man. Rivalling Chappelle in the un-PC

Seinfeld returning to New York’s The Comic

stakes, Louis CK starts his latest stand-up

Strip, where he got his start at an open mic in

show with, “So, y’know, I think abortion is…”

1976. In an autobiographical set he recreates

What follows is a gut-busting, head-nodding

the early routines that took him from being a

comic overview of the pretzel logic and

nobody to a 1981 slot on Johnny Carson, the

emotions involved in this one issue. And Louis

gags interspersed with a visit to his old home

is just getting warmed up for a set that ranges

and early stand-up footage. But how did he

from religion (“The Christians won everything

go from Carson to Seinfeld? No doubt that’ll

– if you don’t believe me: what year is it?”) to

be the subject of another Netflix special.

the truth about relationships (“Love plus time

Dave Chappelle: The Age Of Spin

minus distance equals hate”).

(NETFLIX)

Between Two Ferns With Zach Galifianakis

Performing in LA for the first time after a

(AMAZON)

decade out of the spotlight, Dave Chappelle

Zach Galifianakis’s satire of American talk

proves he’s still one of the funniest mofos

shows is the crème de la crème of the comic

on the planet. Building his routine loosely

offerings from Funny Or Die on Amazon.

around the four times he met O.J. Simpson,

These 20 episodes from 2008-2016 feature

Chappelle tramples into no-go zones to

the bearded master of inappropriate

unload about the Oscars, racist cops, LGBTIQ

antagonism bewildering his celebrity guests

issues, Bill Cosby, rape and wicked rapper

with ridiculous questions, awkward asides

weed. It’s a seamless flow from a storyteller

and surreal non-sequiturs. The real gems are

who takes no prisoners and knows no

Galifianakis’s take-down of Hillary Clinton

boundaries.

and him being taken down by Barack Obama.

H

men’s style

129

ULTIMATE SUMMER STREAMING GUIDE

ADULT ANIMATION

A

HOMEGROWN

B

C

The Bond-style parody is one of the best-looking animations ever made for TV. D

A

Archer

(NETFLIX)

In season seven, the latest available on Netflix, suavely idiotic Sterling Archer, his drunk mother Malory, sexy sidekick Lana and the other miscreants of their now-disgraced spy agency have set up shop as private investigators in Los Angeles. But nothing’s changed: they’re still as selfish, bitchy, inappropriate and operationally hopeless as ever in a Bond-style parody that’s also one of the best-looking animations ever made for TV. B

Bojack Horseman

(NETFLIX)

This one belongs in the same, er, stable as Archer, as an animated comedy whose characters are at once off-the-wall objects of derision and recognisably dysfunctional

by animals and humans who’re as beastly as each other. Bojack Horseman’s insideHollywood hilarity is also a Trojan Horse hiding an utterly convincing portrait of a dude suffering one hellish existential crisis.

C

Rick & Morty

(NETFLIX)

Co-created by Dan Harmon, who gave us Community, this has tween dweeb Morty roped into the misadventures of his misanthropic drunk uncle Rick, who just happens to be a mad scientist with unlimited access to alternate dimensions and timelines. With a South Park-level of bad taste at work, along with some genuinely mind-bending plots, it’s a gleefully vulgar time-tripping ’toon that’s like Back To The

Future rebooted by Neil deGrasse Tyson. while high as fuck on bath salts.

D

The Other Guy

( S TA N )

Matt Okine is at his self-deprecating best – he makes his receding hairline a running joke – in this lo-fi comic drama. He’s a radio DJ whose life is a mess after his girlfriend cheats on him with his best mate. Tailormade for Okine’s talents, it also benefits from excellent comic support, particularly Harriet Dyer as his drink- and drug-addled girl-bro.

No Activity ( S TA N )

Talk about clever, budget-friendly concepts.

Dialogue-driven No Activity’s title refers to the report two stakeout cops (Patrick Brammall and Darren Gilshenan) repeatedly give to police headquarters radio operators (Harriet Dyer, Genevieve Morris) as they

human beings. Except, of course, Bojack, as

monitor the various criminal lairs inhabited

the title implies, is a half-horse, half-human.

by dumbass baddies (David Field, Dan

Once the star of 1980s sitcom Horsin’

Wyllie) and victims (Rose Byrne, Damon

Around – think Full House, with Phar Lap

Herriman). The simple set-up let Aussie

as John Stamos – he’s now a bitter drunk

stars do a season’s work in a few days and

trying to flog his memoirs and reclaim fame

develop very funny semi-improvised comic

in an entertainment industry populated

riffs. Now it has been remade in the US, with

130

men’s style

TOUGH GUYS

Brammall getting to play with the likes of Will

E

Better Call Saul

E

F

G

H

G

Bosch

Ferrell, Tim Meadows and Amy Sedaris.

( S TA N )

(AMAZON)

Tom Gleeson – Great

While Breaking Bad offered nail-biting thrills

Michael Connolly’s hardboiled LAPD homicide

and ever-escalating paranoia from the get-

detective Harry Bosch comes alive in this

go, Vince Gilligan’s spin-off is a sweeter

well-judged screen adaptation that riffs off

With his Hard Chat and Hard Quiz, Tom

creature, though no less remorseless in its

story elements in the various novels to create

Gleeson is Australia’s master of the passive-

own inevitable trajectory. Bob Odenkirk is

intriguing new cases. Though he seems an odd

aggressive, awkward-yet-overconfident

outstanding as lawyer Jimmy McGill, trying

casting choice at first, Titus Welliver so quickly

politically aware comedy style that’s made

to do the right thing but sliding ever closer to

inhabits grizzled and grumpy Harry that it’s

John Oliver a star. This stand-up special, part

becoming the slippery Saul Goodman who

soon hard to imagine anyone else in the role.

of the One Night Stan series, sees Gleeson on

helped and hindered Walter White in equal

fine form as he rips into Malcolm Turnbull and

measure.

( S TA N )

Peter Dutton with the same good-natured vigour that has him taking the piss out if

F

Ozark

H

Billions

( S TA N )

It ain’t winning Emmys but this drama is one of

himself as a “bald, middle-aged and average”

(NETFLIX)

dude with talcum powder in his undies.

If you got hooked on Breaking Bad, prepare to

obsessed New York district attorney against

Paul Kelly: Stories Of Me

become an addict of this drug-money drama.

Damian Lewis’s corrupt hedge fund billionaire.

Jason Bateman is a crooked accountant who

Their conflict borders on satire in its dick-

double crosses a Mexican cartel and can

Given Paul Kelly has just scored the first-ever

swinging, balls-out machismo, but it’s an

only save himself and his family by moving

number-one album of his long career, it feels

utterly binge-worthy drama that also sums

to a redneck backwater and laundering an

like the right time to revisit this heartfelt 2012

up Trump’s America.

insane amount of money for the organisation.

documentary, which chronicles his life, from

Episode one’s violent escalation is like

aspiring cricketer to one of Australia’s best

something from close to the end of Walter

singer-songwriters, and includes interviews

White’s journey. It doesn’t let up from there,

with mates like Richard Flanagan and Archie

with the finale a jaw-dropping set-up for

Roach.

season two.

( S TA N )

the best shows on TV, pitting Paul Giamatti’s

men’s style

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TRUE STORIES

A

D

A

American Playboy

B

E

C

F

responders. Through news and security camera

Greengrass, Guillermo del Toro, Lawrence

(AMAZON)

footage and intensive interviews, we learn how

Kasdan and Francis Ford Coppola, and narration

With Hef now having a spa in the great grotto

these terrible crimes unfolded and the lasting

from Meryl Streep make this a companion piece

in the sky, this timely 10-part docudrama, co-

damage they do beyond the sensationalised TV

of sorts to Band Of Brothers and The Pacific.

produced by Playboy, secures the man’s legacy

news focusing on the killer. Absolutely gripping.

as one of 20th Century culture’s most influential and contradictory figures. Combining handsome

C

Rocco

E

Mindhunter

(NETFLIX)

period re-enactments, archival footage and

(NETFLIX)

interviews, and present-day commentary from

If you’re expecting simple titillation, think again.

Se7en mode. Based on the book Mind Hunter:

authors, academics and girlfriends, we’re taken on

There’s enough depth here for a dozen literary

Inside The FBI’s Elite Serial Crime Unit, in which

an absorbing journey through the life of the man

novels as famous Italian porn star Rocco Siffredi

pioneering profiler John E. Douglas detailed

who changed the way we think about sex, media,

grants a camera crew access to his last year

how he created the psychological investigative

women, men, race, freedom – everything.

making hardcore films. What we learn is that he’s

approach, this detail-obsessed 1970s-set

a devoted husband and father and a very dark

drama follows agents as they try to catch and

character who has spent a lifetime at the mercy of

understand some of the era’s worst serial killers,

what he calls “the devil between my legs”.

from John Wayne Gacy to David ‘Son of Sam’

Active Shooter: America Under Fire B

( S TA N )

This series debuted just days before the Las Vegas massacre, rendering the title sequence, which

D

Five Came Back

(NETFLIX)

This is David Fincher in Zodiac rather than

Berkowitz. Already renewed for a second season.

F

Drunk History

Based on the book Five Came Back: A Story of

( S TA N )

repeating the phrase “worst mass shooting in

Hollywood And The Second World War by Mark

Like your true stories with laughs? American

American history”, already tragically outdated.

Harris, this documentary series chronicles the

comedians start drinking and try to relate

Watching the first episode, about the Aurora,

WWII contributions made by directors John Ford,

historical happenings, with their ramblings

Colorado cinema shooting in 2012, you wish every

Frank Capra, William Wyler, John Huston and

dramatised by a Who’s Who of lip-syncing

single American could be made to watch every

George Stevens, who all left cushy Hollywood to

A-list actors. Know what would really rock? An

single episode. That’s because the focus here isn’t

make non-fiction films on the front lines. Archival

Australian version. Imagine Mick Molloy on the

on the perpetrator but on the victims and first-

footage, interviews with Steven Spielberg, Paul

cans explaining how Federation came about?

features snippets from decades of news stories

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DICK MOVES

MOVIE ORIGINALS

J

H

G

The Man In The High Castle

I

K

(AMAZON)

This adaptation of Philip K. Dick’s book of the same name is set in an alternate 1960s in which Germany and Japan won WWII and carved up the United States. Or is it? As is often the case with the author’s work, the twists are even trippier than they first appear.

Or are they? Lavishly produced and thoughtfully detailed, it’s a surprisingly nuanced and reliably mind-bending recasting of history. Maybe.

H

Mindhorn

Michod (Animal Kingdom), this has Brad Pitt

Electric Dreams

(NETFLIX)

as an egomaniacal general tasked with winning

( S TA N )

This Brit comedy has a washed-up actor once

the war in Afghanistan. But he’s thwarted by his

Too much Dick is never enough, if the

famous for playing 1980s TV cop Mindhorn

own flaws, a coterie of yes-men, administration

recent success of Blade Runner: 2049

getting a second shot at fame when he’s called

middle management and a Rolling Stone

and The Man In The High Castle are any

in to help with a real-life serial killer case. Julian

journalist on hand to witness the endless

measure. And in this anthology series,

Barratt from The Mighty Boosh is very funny in

clusterfuckery. If you want to understand why

which comes on like a cross between

the lead, with wicked support from Australia’s

the US’s Middle East wars are still going, you

The Twilight Zone and Black Mirror, the

Essie Davis, Steve Coogan and Kenneth Branagh.

could do worse than starting with War Machine.

sci-fi master’s short stories are brought top-flight casts. The best of the bunch

I Don’t Feel At Home In This World Any More

so far has Steve Buscemi as a futuristic

(NETFLIX)

Directed by Angelina Jolie, this depicts the

sad sack – what else? – lured into illegal

Mopey nurse Ruth (Melanie Lynskey) sets out

horrors unleashed by the Khmer Rouge after

shenanigans by a saucy artificial human.

to find out who stole her laptop, helped by

they took control of Cambodia in 1975. Where

to the screen in cinematic style with

G

American Vandal

(NETFLIX)

I

K

First They Killed My Father

(NETFLIX)

creepy-friendly neighbour Tony (Elijah Wood),

it improves on The Killing Fields is by telling the

and their DIY investigation slowly careens out

story through the Khmer people.

of control, with ever-more comically violent

American Vandal takes a deep-dive

consequences. This cracking, oddball thriller

Okja

investigation into whether a high-school

won the Grand Jury Prize at 2017 Sundance and

(NETFLIX)

hoodlum is really guilty of… spray-

marks director Macon Blair as one to watch.

painting 27 dicks onto teachers’ cars.

What seems like a throwaway gag is

j

War Machine

Imagine E.T. bred with Razorback and you’re getting an idea of this action-horror-comedydrama about a young girl protecting a

teased out in forensic detail as a spot-

(NETFLIX)

genetically engineered superpig from corporate

on satire of true-crime shows. Weirdly,

Based on the Michael Hastings’ non-

bacon busters. From the febrile mind of director

American Vandal actually becomes an

fiction book The Operators, and only lightly

Bong Joon-ho, it’s of a piece with his eccentric

intriguing whodunit in its own right.

fictionalised by Aussie writer-director David

genre flicks The Host and Snowpiercer.

men’s style

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P H OTOG RA P H Y

TANE COFFIN ST Y LI N G

KIM PAYNE G ROOM I N G

BRADWYN JONES Prada Pink and Green jackets, $3,610, shirts, $930, and pants, $1,310.

H FA S

ION

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O L O C E

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Burberry cape, $2,650, bag, $2,650, and pants, $1,025.

The Bespoke Corner made-to-measure suit, $1,950; Jac + Jack shirt, $260.

MJ Bale jacket, $399, and pocket square, $49.95; Academy Brand shirt, $89.95, and chinos, $89.95; Paul Smith t-shirt, $114.

Valentino coat, $5,260; Raf Simons knit, $1,295, and shirt, $1,175; Neil Barrett jogger pants, $925, all from Harrolds; Paul Smith sneakers, $644.

Bally cap, $410, singlet, $640, singlet (under), $640, and shorts, $2,130.

G-Star t-shirt, $70, and cap, $60; Prada sunglasses, $440.

Brooks Brothers 3-piece suit, $1,299, and knit, $149; Akubra hat, $220, from Strand Hatter.

PAM bomber, $660, hooded sweat top, $229, and pants, $297; Mui Mui sunglasses, $560.

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Paul Smith hat, $66, shirt, $378, pants, $729, boots, $982, and belt, $201.

Gucci jacket, $3,782, shorts, $885, bumbag, $1,325, loafers, $1,220, and socks, $115.

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Tom Ford jacket, $5,195, waistcoat, $1,490, and pant, $1,490, all from Harrolds; Gucci rings, $195-$365; Oliver Peoples sunglasses, $450.

F E AT U R E

R THE GREAT R DISRUPTION N

M

ARTIN STELTNER showed up at his office in the state courthouse building in western Berlin. Steltner, who has served for more than a dozen years as the spokesman for the Berlin state prosecutor, resembles a detective out of classic crime fiction: crisp suit, wavy gray hair and a gallows humor that comes with having seen it all. There was the 2009 case of the therapist who mistakenly killed two patients in an Ecstasy-infused session gone wrong. The Great Poker Heist of 2010, in which masked men stormed a celebrity-studded poker tournament with machetes and made off with a quarter-million dollars. The 2012 episode involving the Canadian porn star who killed and ate his boyfriend and then sent the leftovers home in the mail. Steltner embraced the oddball aspect of his job; he kept a picture of Elvis Presley on the wall of his office.

But even Steltner found the phone calls he received that morning confounding. They came from police officers from towns far outside Berlin, who reported that protests were erupting, seemingly out of nowhere, on their streets. “They are demonstrating – ‘Save our children,’ ‘No attacks from immigrants on our children’ and some things like that,” Steltner told me when I met him in Berlin recently.

The police were calling Steltner because this was ostensibly his office’s fault. The protesters were angry over the Berlin prosecutor’s supposed refusal to indict three Arab migrants who, they said, raped a 13-year-old girl from

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Berlin’s tight-knit Russian-German community.

Steltner, who would certainly have been informed if such a case had come up for prosecution, had heard nothing of it. He called the Berlin Police Department, which informed him that a 13-year-old Russian-German girl had indeed gone missing a week before. When she resurfaced a day later, she told her parents that three “Southern-looking men” – by which she meant Arab migrants – had yanked her off the street and taken her to a rundown apartment, where they beat and raped her.

But when the police interviewed the girl, whose name was Lisa, she changed her story.

She had left home, it turned out, because she had gotten in trouble at school. Afraid of how her parents would react, she went to stay with a 19-year-old male friend. The kidnapping and gang rape, she admitted, never happened.

By then, however, the girl’s initial story was taking on a life of its own within the RussianGerman community through word of mouth and Facebook – enough so that the police felt compelled to put out a statement debunking it. Then, over the weekend, Channel One, a Russian state-controlled news station with a large following among Russian-Germans, who watch it on YouTube and its website, ran a report presenting Lisa’s story as an example of the unchecked dangers Middle Eastern refugees posed to German citizens. Angela Merkel, it implied, was refusing to address these threats, even as she opened German borders to migrants. “According to Lisa’s parents,” the Channel One reporter said, “the police simply refuse to look for criminals.”

© 2 0 17 T H E N E W Y O R K T I M E S

Jim Rutenberg on how the Kremlin built a vast network of TV stations, online media outlets and social-media accounts to wage a new kind of information war.

F E AT U R E

The following day in Berlin, Germany’s far-right National Democratic Party held a protest at a plaza in Marzahn, a heavily Russian neighbourhood. The featured speaker was an adult cousin of Lisa’s, who repeated the original allegations while standing in front of signs reading “Stop Foreign Infiltration!” and “Secure Borders!” The crowd was tiny but it was big enough to attract the attention of RT, Russia’s state-financed international cable network, which presents local-language newscasts in numerous countries, including Germany and the United States. A crew from the network’s video service, Ruptly, arrived with a camera.

The footage was on YouTube that afternoon.

That same day, Sputnik, a brash Russiangovernment-run news and commentary site that models itself on BuzzFeed, ran a story raising allegations of a police cover-up. Lisa’s case was not isolated, Sputnik argued; other refugee rapists, it warned, might be running free. By the start of the following week, protests were breaking out in neighbourhoods with large Russian-German populations. In multiple interviews, including with RT and Sputnik, Steltner reiterated that the girl had recanted the original story about the kidnapping and the gang rape. In one interview with the German media, he said that in the course of the investigation, authorities had found evidence that the girl had sex with a 23-year-old man months earlier, which would later lead to a sexual-abuse conviction for the man, whose sentence was suspended. But the original, unrelated and debunked story continued circulating, drawing the interest of the German mainstream media, which pointed out inconsistencies in the Russian reports. None of that stopped the protests, which culminated in a demonstration the following Saturday, Jan. 23, by 700 people outside the Chancellery, Merkel’s office. Ruptly covered that, too.

An official in the Merkel government says the administration was completely perplexed, at first. Then, a few days later, Russia’s foreign minister, Sergey Lavrov, held a news conference in Moscow. Bringing up Lisa’s story, he cast doubt on the official version of events.

Germany, he suggested, was “covering up reality in a politically correct manner for the sake of domestic politics.” Two days later, RT ran a segment reporting that despite official denials, the case was “not so simple.” The Russian Embassy called Steltner and asked to meet. The German foreign ministry informed him that this was now a diplomatic issue. The whole affair suddenly appeared a lot less mystifying. A realization took hold in the foreign ministry and the Chancellery: Germany had been hit.

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O

FFICIALS IN GERMANY and at NATO headquarters in Brussels view the Lisa case, as it is now known, as an early strike in a new information war Russia is waging against the West. In the months that followed, politicians perceived by the Russian government as hostile to its interests would find themselves caught up in media storms that, in their broad contours, resembled the one that gathered around Merkel. They often involved conspiracy theories and outright falsehoods – sometimes with a tenuous connection to fact, as in the Lisa case, sometimes with no connection at all – amplified until they broke through into domestic politics. In other cases, they simply helped promote nationalist, far-left or farright views that put pressure on the political centre. What the efforts had in common was their agents: a loose network of Russiangovernment-run or -financed media outlets and apparently coordinated social-media accounts.

the role that Russian information networks are suspected to have played in the American presidential election of 2016. In early January, two weeks before Donald J. Trump took office, American intelligence officials released a declassified version of a report – prepared jointly by the Central Intelligence Agency, Federal Bureau of Investigation and National Security Agency – titled “Assessing Russian Activities and Intentions in Recent U.S. Elections.” It detailed what an Obama-era Pentagon intelligence official, Michael Vickers, described in an interview in June with NBC News as “the political equivalent of 9/11.”

“Russian President Vladimir Putin ordered an influence campaign in 2016 aimed at the U.S. presidential election,” the authors wrote.

“Russia’s goals were to undermine public faith in the U.S. democratic process, denigrate Secretary Clinton and harm her electability and potential presidency.” According to the report, “Putin and the Russian government developed a clear preference for President-elect Trump.”

The intelligence assessment detailed some cloak-and-dagger activities, like the murky web of Russian (if not directly government‘MOSCOW WILL APPLY affiliated or -financed) hackers who LESSONS LEARNED FROM infiltrated voting systems and stole ITS PUTIN-ORDERED gigabytes’ worth of email and other documents from the Democratic CAMPAIGN AIMED AT THE U.S National Committee and the PRESIDENTIAL ELECTION TO Clinton campaign. But most of the FUTURE INFLUENCE EFFORTS assessment concerned machinations WORLDWIDE, INCLUDING that were plainly visible to anyone with a cable subscription AGAINST U.S. ALLIES.’ or an internet connection: the coordinated activities of the TV and online-media properties and After RT and Sputnik gave platforms to social-media accounts that made up, in the politicians behind the British vote to leave report’s words, “Russia’s state-run propaganda the European Union, like Nigel Farage, a machine.” committee of the British Parliament released The assessment devoted nearly half its pages a report warning that foreign governments may to a single cable network: RT. The Kremlin have tried to interfere with the referendum. started RT – shortened from the original Russia When President Vladimir V. Putin of Russia Today – a dozen years ago to improve Russia’s visited the new French president, Emmanuel image abroad. It operates in several world Macron, at the palace of Versailles in May, capitals and is carried on cable and satellite Macron spoke out about such influence networks across the United States, Europe, Asia campaigns at a news conference. Having and the Middle East. RT and the rest of the prevailed weeks earlier in the election over Russian information machine were working Marine Le Pen – a far-right politician who had with “covert intelligence operations” to do backed Putin’s annexation of Crimea and met no less than “undermine the U.S.-led liberal with him in the Kremlin a month before the democratic order,” the assessment stated. And, it election – Macron complained that “Russia warned ominously, “Moscow will apply lessons Today and Sputnik were agents of influence learned from its Putin-ordered campaign which on several occasions spread fake news aimed at the U.S. presidential election to future about me personally and my campaign.” influence efforts worldwide, including against But all of this paled in comparison with U.S. allies and their election processes.”

RT and Sputnik have branched out from Moscow to become an international media presence, even being added to the internal TV system at UN headquarters.

Russia dismissed the claims as so much Cold War-era Yankee hysteria. Margarita Simonyan, RT’s chief editor, told me the allegations against the network smacked of “McCarthyism.”

Still, Russian officials are remarkably open about the aims of RT and Sputnik: to “break the monopoly of the Anglo-Saxon global information streams,” as Putin himself put it during a visit to RT’s Moscow headquarters in 2013. Russia’s argument about RT’s rightful place in the American media landscape is not all that different from the one Roger Ailes made when he started Fox News: If you thought Fox looked conservative, he would say, maybe it’s because you were liberal. In Russia’s case, it’s: If RT looks biased, it’s because you live in a bubble of Western arrogance and hypocrisy. You’re the one who’s biased.

Plenty of RT’s programming, to outward appearances, is not qualitatively different from conventional opinion-infused cable news. Its fans point to its coverage of political perspectives that aren’t prominent on mainstream networks – voices from the Occupy movement, the libertarian right and third parties like the Green Party. The network has been nominated for four International Emmy Awards and one Daytime Emmy.

This makes RT and Sputnik harder for the West to combat than shadowy hackers. You can tighten internet security protocols to protect against data breaches, run counterhacking

operations to take out infiltrators, sanction countries with proven links to such activities.

But RT and Sputnik operate on the stated terms of Western liberal democracy; they count themselves as news organizations, protected by the First Amendment and the libertarian ethos of the internet.

So over the past decade, even as the Putin government clamped down on its own free press – and as Voice of America and Radio Free Europe, the U.S.-government-run broadcasting services, were largely squeezed off the Russian radio dial — RT easily acquired positions on the basic cable rosters of Comcast, Cox, Charter, DirecTV and Fios, among others.

By standard media-industry metrics, RT is relatively small. Numbers that RT commissioned in 2015 from the polling firm Ipsos showed it was watched, weekly, by eight million people in the United States, placing it among the top five foreign networks here and in Europe. (Citing Ipsos data, RT says it is watched by 70 million per week globally; the BBC, using a different polling firm, says its own audience is 372 million per week.)

But American television measures itself by the Nielsen ratings, which RT doesn’t pay to be measured by. Nielsen shows Fox News with an average audience of 2.3 million people nightly, MSNBC with 1.6 million nightly and CNN with more than one million nightly. It’s a good bet that if RT thought it would rank anywhere near

them, it would pay to be rated.

But the ratings are almost beside the point.

RT might not have amassed an audience that remotely rivals CNN’s in conventional terms, but in the new, “democratized” media landscape, it doesn’t need to. Over the past several years, the network has come to form the hub of a new kind of state media operation: one that travels through the same diffuse online channels, chasing the same viral hits and memes, as the rest of the Twitter-andFacebook-age media. In the process, Russia has built the most effective propaganda operation of the 21st century so far, one that thrives in the feverish political climates that have descended on many Western publics.

I

N APRIL, I WENT TO VISIT Dmitri Peskov, Putin’s press secretary, at his Kremlin office. He has been a spokesman for Putin since Putin first took office in 2000.

When I asked Peskov what Putin meant by RT’s mission to “break the monopoly of Anglo-Saxon global information streams,” he went into something of a dissertation, speaking in English with obvious relish and little room for interjections. “The whole trend of global media was set by Anglo-Saxons,” he began. “It’s like the first conveyor belt. It was created by Mr. Ford in the United States.” (It wasn’t, but Ford was the first major manufacturer to use men’s style

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the technology on a grand scale.) But now, he went on, “the conveyor line is not only working in G.M., in Ford – it’s also working in Citroën, in Renault, in Mercedes-Benz, in Toyota, everywhere in the world.”

Something like the dissemination of Ford’s conveyor belt, he said, was now happening in media; the sort of global news networks the West built were being replicated by Russia, to great effect. What was making “the whole story successful,” he said, “is a tectonic change of the global system that all of a sudden started to develop 10 years ago.”

The transformation and acceleration of information technology, Peskov said, had unmoored the global economy from real value.

Perception alone could move markets or crash them. “We’ve never seen bubbles like we’ve seen in the greatest economy in the world, the United States,” he said. The same free flow of information had produced “a new clash of interests,” and so began “an informational disaster – an informational war.”

Peskov argued that this was not an information war of Russia’s choosing; it was a “counteraction.” He brought up the “colour revolutions” throughout Eastern Europe and Central Asia, which led to the ousters of Russian-friendly governments in Ukraine, Georgia and Kyrgyzstan in the mid-2000s.

Russia blamed American nongovernmental organizations for fomenting the upheavals. But now, Peskov argued, all you might need to shake up the geopolitical order was a Twitter account.

“Now you can reach hundreds of millions in a minute,” he said.

By way of example, he pointed to “this girl, from show business, Kim Kardashian.”

Kardashian is among the most popular people in all of social media, with 55 million Twitter followers, nearly 18 million more than President Trump. “Let’s imagine that one day she says, ‘My supporters – do this,’ ” Peskov said. “This will be a signal that will be accepted by millions and millions of people. And she’s got no intelligence, no interior ministry, no defense ministry, no K.G.B.” This, he said, was the new reality: the global proliferation of the kinds of reach and influence that were once reserved for the great powers and, more recently, great media conglomerates. Even Peskov sounded slightly amazed considering the possibilities.

“The new reality creates a perfect opportunity for mass disturbances,” he said, “or for initiating mass support or mass disapproval.”

One way of looking at the activities of Russia’s information machine is as a

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resumption of the propaganda fight between the United States and the U.S.S.R. that began after the Second World War. In the late 1940s, the Marshall Plan, the herculean development project helmed by Secretary of State George Marshall, flooded postwar Europe with money and advisers to help rebuild cities, advance democracy and form an integrated economic zone. Joseph Stalin immediately saw it as a threat – and saw propaganda as one of his best weapons to contain it.

In 1947, Stalin formed the Communist Information Bureau (Cominform), which used Communist newspapers, pamphlets and posters to paint the Marshall Plan as an American plot to subjugate Europe. A representative Soviet poster distributed in Vienna showed an American – identified by American-flag shirt cuffs – offering aid packages with one hand while plundering Austria’s gold with the other.

Radio Moscow – the state-run international broadcaster – and Soviet-supported newspapers throughout Europe accused the “imperialist” United States of pursuing a plan of “dollar domination” to make the Continent dependent

on American goods and services, and of conscripting local youth to fight American proxy wars elsewhere.

Writing in The New York Times that year, the correspondent Anne O’Hare McCormick recounted false reports in the Red Army newspaper in Vienna that the locals were afraid to walk the streets at night lest American soldiers rob and mug them – propaganda, she wrote, that “may not convince, but it adds to the confusion between truth and falsehood and fosters that darkness of the mind in which dictatorships operate.” In a 1947 letter to George Marshall’s undersecretary, Robert A. Lovett, William C. Chanler, a wartime Defense Department official, urged a response, warning that “we are making the same mistake that was made with Hitler.”

America went into the propaganda war with distinct advantages. At the time, the Marshall Plan was pumping $13 billion into Europe, while the Soviets were taking $14 billion out in the form of reparations and resource seizures; America’s image abroad was as squeaky clean as it would ever be.

Alex Jones

Dmitri Peskov

Dmitry Kiselyov

Margarita Simonyan

Mikhail Lesin

Valery Gerasimov

Rogues’ gallery: Some of the cast of characters discussed in Rutenberg’s examination of the spread of media information and disinformation.

Seth Rich

Sean Hannity

America’s midcentury propaganda success set the tone for the decades to come.

And unlike the Soviets, the United States benefited from the existence of a vast ecosystem of nongovernment media that, even when it crossed swords with the American government, still reflected an American outlook and implicitly promoted American cultural values.

The first international, 24-hour networks to come online in the 1980s, like CNN, were American, and they provided their audience – which eventually included many behind the Iron Curtain – an unsparing view of the last days of Communism: student protesters staring down tanks in Tiananmen Square, protests and strikes in Poland, East Germans exulting on the ruins of the Berlin Wall. When Mikhail Gorbachev signed his resignation, ceding power to the new presidency of Boris Yeltsin in the last official act of Soviet Communism, he invited CNN to capture the moment in his Kremlin office suite. Finding his own pen out of ink, Gorbachev turned to the CNN president at the time, Tom Johnson, who lent Gorbachev the Montblanc he had in his breast pocket. After making sure the pen wasn’t American-made, the last Soviet leader used it to sign one of the most important documents in Russian history.

“You have built your empire better than I built mine,” he told Johnson.

M

IKHAIL LESIN, TOO, wanted to build an empire.

Around the time of the Soviet Union’s dissolution, he was in his mid-30s, running Video International, an early big Russian ad firm, of which he was a founder. Video International was credited with bringing modern, American-style techniques to Yeltsin’s 1996 re-election campaign, and after Yeltsin’s victory, the president rewarded Lesin by placing him in charge of his presidential communications operation.

Lesin was a sharp-witted hard drinker who was concerned about Russia’s image in the world. He had a vision for an international network that would familiarize Russia in the same way that CNN familiarized America. But the chaos of the later Yeltsin years, in which the ruble collapsed and Yeltsin’s government foundered, made such a thing impossible.

Lesin found a more receptive patron in Putin, who succeeded Yeltsin in 1999. Putin – who, as a deputy in the St. Petersburg mayor’s office half

‘LET’S IMAGINE THAT ONE DAY [KIM KARDASHIAN] SAYS, “MY SUPPORTERS — DO THIS”… ‘THIS WILL BE A SIGNAL THAT WILL BE ACCEPTED BY MILLIONS AND MILLIONS OF PEOPLE. AND SHE’S GOT NO INTELLIGENCE, NO INTERIOR MINISTRY, NO DEFENSE MINISTRY, NO K.G.B.’

a decade earlier, once chauffeured Ted Turner around the city – was an attentive student of the power of television. At times, he could not contain his frustration with the way the foreign media covered Russia. “All they can talk about is crisis and breakdown,” he complained to a nationalist youth group in 2005.

That year, with the Russian economy rebounding thanks to strong oil prices, Lesin and Alexei Gromov, Putin’s press strategist, secured the approval and financing to start the network, which they called Russia Today. To run the new operation, they hired a 25-year-old TV reporter named Margarita Simonyan.

When she heard she got the job, “I almost fainted,” Simonyan told me recently. We were sitting on plush couches on an exclusive, dimly lit floor of Voronezh, a fashionable restaurant in the Khamovniki district in central Moscow.

Dr. No, the James Bond film about a plan to disrupt the American space program, was on a TV screen opposite us. Before us was a spread of venison, oysters and shrimp, themselves an unsubtle statement: They were imported from Russia’s far east, a menu adjustment in response to the sanctions and countersanctions

that had cut off Western food imports.

Simonyan, who is now 37, is petite with a wide face, dark hair and green eyes. Her name appears more times in the declassified U.S. intelligence assessment than anyone’s besides Putin’s, but she seems a somewhat unlikely candidate for an American national-security threat. When the report dropped, she wrote on Twitter: “They are kidding, right?” At the restaurant, she told me: “I never planned to be a part of a weapon. I have two children, and I’m very, very peaceful. I don’t like wars. Any wars.”

Simonyan grew up poor in Krasnodar, a southern Russia river town, and was 11 when the Soviet Union collapsed. For one academic year, she attended a public high school in Bristol, N.H. “She was fascinated with news,” Patricia Albert, whose parents hosted Simonyan, and who remains close with her, told me. “Maggie,” as the family still calls her, would sit transfixed every night when she joined them on the couch to watch the local news, 60 Minutes and CBS Evening News With Dan Rather. But she also came to resent some of her American classmates for what she viewed as their sheltered naïveté. “ ‘Do you have dogs?’ I remember that,” she told me. “I still have a letter I wrote to my parents saying, ‘I can’t believe they are seriously asking me whether we have dogs.’ They were grown-ups – 18-year-olds – in a normal high school in New Hampshire, which is supposed to be a sophisticated place.”

Back home in Krasnodar, her view of the United States, like many Russians’, started to curdle after the 1999 NATO bombing campaign against the regime of Slobodan Milosevic in the former Yugoslavia, with which Russian had strong ethnic, cultural and political ties: “Our Slavic brothers and sisters,” she told me, leaning forward for emphasis. “You bombed them with no permission, with no reason,” she said, “and in one day you lost Russia.”

As a journalism major at Kuban State University, Simonyan landed an internship and, quickly thereafter, a correspondent position at a local TV station. Her patriotism and feel for the American-style production techniques she had seen on TV in New Hampshire – which had not yet come to Russia – helped her rise quickly through the ranks of state journalism.

She covered the brutal Chechen military campaign in 1999 and 2000 that helped solidify Putin’s political standing as he ascended to the presidency, and the 2004 Beslan school siege, which earned her the “Strengthening the Military Commonwealth” medal. men’s style

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When she took the helm of Russia Today the following year, Simonyan modeled the new network on CNN and the BBC, and she hired TV consultants from Britain to help give Russia Today a modern cable-news look and feel.

“Nobody in Russia had experience of that kind,” Simonyan told me. “Twenty-four-hour news had not been established yet.”

At the beginning, the network’s mission was to reverse the global view of Russians “as bears that roam the streets and growl,” as Lesin put it in an interview in 2001. (Lesin was found dead in a Washington hotel room in 2015. The city’s medical examiner attributed his death to blunt trauma to the head. While the incident remains the subject of much speculation, federal investigators have said they believe Lesin’s death followed a prolonged bout of heavy drinking.)

An early BBC content analysis found nothing all that remarkable in the network’s Russiacentric coverage and noted that it even included criticism of the Russian bureaucracy.

Russia Today – incorporated as an independent company with state financing – was getting into hotels and even American cable systems. But three years into its existence, the network still had not gained much notice or had much discernible impact abroad. Lesin and Simonyan concluded that the network’s mission of solely focusing on Russia needed revising.

“We had basically too much Russian news,” she told me.

So in 2008, Russia Today began to reposition itself. The network was reintroduced with a new name, RT, and hired McCann – the same American advertising firm that once helped the United States sell the Marshall Plan. It soon debuted a new satellite channel in the United States, RT America. Instead of celebrating Russia, Simonyan’s network would turn a critical eye to the rest of the world, particularly the United States. As Peskov sees it, the idea was: “Why are you criticizing us in Chechnya and all this stuff ? Look at what you are doing there in the United States with your relationship with white and black.” With that, he said, “all of the sudden, Anglo-Saxons saw that there is an army from the opposite side.”

RT’s new slogan, dreamed up by McCann, was “Question More.”

R

T AMERICA SET UP shop in a glass-fronted office building in Washington a block and a half east of the White House.

The new network promised to feature stories that “have not been reported” or were “hugely underreported” in the mainstream media, Simonyan told

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The Times in 2010.

From early on, the channel’s interviews highlighted Sept. 11 “truthers,” who believed the Sept. 11 attacks were an inside job, including Alex Jones, whose segments, ranging freely across the broader spectrum of conspiracy theories – from Osama bin Laden’s staged death to the all-powerful machinations of the Bilderberg Group – became regular occurrences on the network. When I asked Simonyan about the Sept. 11 conspiracy theories, she replied: “Some guy in the States who worked for us – he doesn’t have that position anymore – was a bit into that. I didn’t pay any attention to that.

When I did, I almost killed everybody.” But, she said, it went with the territory. “We do have our mistakes sometimes, like The New York Times does, like everything does,” she said. “We correct them.”

To the extent that RT had any clear ideological bent, it was a sort of all-purpose anti-establishment stance that drew from both the anti-globalization left (the network hosted a Green Party debate) and the libertarian right (it lavished attention on the Rand Paul movement). Its news coverage emphasized poverty and racial injustice, and it found its breakthrough story in the Occupy Wall Street protests. As Wahl, who quit RT in 2014, wrote later in Politico Magazine, “Video of outraged protesters, heavy-handed police and tents pitched in parks portrayed America as a country in the midst of a popular uprising – it was the beginning of the inevitable decline of a capitalistic world power.”

At the time, state journalism back in Russia was enjoying a kind of renaissance under Dmitri Medvedev, who was elected president in 2008. The main Russian international news service, RIA Novosti, hired journalists from The Moscow Times, Agence France-Presse and Reuters, following the philosophy that Russia served its interests best by providing traditional warts-and-all news, with a Russian voice and perspective. “There was no talk about censorship,” Nabi Abdullaev, a former Moscow Times deputy chief editor who oversaw RIA Novosti’s foreign-language news service, told me. “All they wanted from me was quality professional standards in reporting; that was it.”

But that all changed shortly after Putin’s presidential re-election in 2012. The following year, with no warning, Putin signed a decree effectively bringing together RIA Novosti and Voice of Russia, the broadcast service previously called Radio Moscow, under the umbrella of a new organization called Rossiya Segodnya.

The Kremlin appointed as its manager Dmitry Kiselyov, state television’s most popular host,

known for homophobic rants and his taste for conspiracy theories.

Kiselyov went to greet the shocked staff a few days later, delivering a speech that one staff member surreptitiously recorded and posted to YouTube.

“Objectivity is a myth,” Kiselyov said. “Just imagine a young man who puts an arm around the shoulder of a girl,” he went on, “and tells the girl, ‘You know, I’ve wanted to tell you for a long time that I treat you objectively.’ Is this what she’s waiting for? Probably not. So in the same way, our country, Russia, needs our love.

If we speak about the editorial policy, of course, I would certainly want it to be associated with love for Russia.” Journalism, he said, was an instrument of the country.

Three weeks later, Kiselyov announced that Margarita Simonyan would serve as the new organization’s editor in chief. Simonyan renamed RIA Novosti’s international branch Sputnik – “because I thought that’s the only Russian word that has a positive connotation, and the whole world knows it,” she told me.

Kiselyov presented it as a defensive weapon, saying it was for people “tired of aggressive propaganda promoting a unipolar world” from the West. Meanwhile, Simonyan made new plans for RT that included expansions in Britain and Germany. Together, RT and Sputnik would be the nucleus of an assertively pro-Russian, frequently anti-West information network, RT in the mold of a more traditional cable network and Sputnik as its more outspoken, flashy younger sibling.

At the time, Putin was angry about prodemocracy protests that had attended his re-election, which RIA Novosti had covered.

But the Russian leadership was also thinking about information strategy in new ways. In early 2013, Valery Gerasimov, a top Russian general, published an article in a Russian military journal called VPK. Gerasimov had observed Twitter and other social media helping spark the Arab Spring. “It would be easiest of all to say that the events of the ‘Arab Spring’ are not war and so there are no lessons for us – military men – to learn,” he wrote. “But maybe the opposite is true.” There were new means through which to wage war that were “political, economic, informational,” and they could be applied “with the involvement of the protest potential of the population.” Russia’s military doctrine changed its definition of modern military conflict: “a complex use of military force, political, economic, informational and other means of nonmilitary character, applied with a large use of the population’s protest potential.” Military officials in America

and Europe have come to refer to this idea alternatively as the “Gerasimov doctrine” and “hybrid war,” which they accuse Russia of engaging in now. When I asked Peskov about those charges, he shrugged. Everyone was doing it, he said. “If you call what’s going on now a hybrid war, let it be hybrid war,” he said. “It doesn’t matter: It’s war.”

I

N THE WEEKS after the 2016 election, the American political debate was overtaken by suspicions that Russia had played a role in the election in a significant way. There were the hacks of the D.N.C. servers, which intelligence agencies pinned on Russia well before Election Day. But there was also a sense that Russia’s media and social-media machinery had contributed to the informational chaos – the fake news and conspiracy theories that coursed through social-media feeds – that characterized the final stretch of the election, to, it turned out, Trump’s benefit.

In a handful of cases, picking through the tangles of information, true and otherwise, that shaped the election, it was possible to isolate a single strand that could be traced to Russian news sources. One of the most striking cases came in late July 2016, when Sputnik and RT reported that thousands of police officers had surrounded a NATO air base in Turkey amid rumors of a coup attempt – a report that turned out to be exaggerated (there was a planned, peaceful demonstration, and the police were there to secure the area in preparation for a visit the next day by the chairman of the U.S. Joint Chiefs of Staff ). Three internetsecurity analysts, now working together at the Alliance for Securing Democracy at the German Marshall Fund, followed the story’s progress through the social-media landscape. Within the first 78 minutes, a large number of Twitter accounts – many of which they identified as pro-Russian bots – picked up the flawed story and blasted it out in some 4,000 tweets, one of the researchers, a former F.B.I. agent named Clinton Watts, testified before the Senate last spring.

Some of the accounts added the hashtag “#Benghazi” and warned that thousands of Muslims were on the brink of acquiring the nuclear weapons held at the NATO base.

Others included “#TrumpPence16” hashtags, along with words like “America,” “Constitution” and “conservative.” Large numbers of the tweets included accusations that the “MSM” – mainstream media – wasn’t covering the attack.

The RT story racked up thousands of shares on Reddit and was picked up on David Duke’s webpage. About two weeks later, in an interview with Jake Tapper of CNN, Trump’s campaign manager at the time, Paul Manafort, said: “You had the NATO base in Turkey being under attack by terrorists.” He claimed the media had ignored it. Watts told me: “That’s when we were like, ‘Whoa, this is a whole new level.’ ” But such clear-cut instances were rare.

In other cases, the network simply nudged along existing or nascent conspiracy theories: about Hillary Clinton’s health, about a Google plan to rig the election for her, about stock

‘THE RUSSIANS AREN’T JUST PUMPING UP THE RIGHT WING IN AMERICA, THEY’RE ALSO PUMPING UP LEFT-WING STUFF — THEY’RE TRYING TO PUMP UP THE FRINGE AT THE EXPENSE OF THE MIDDLE.’

conspiracists’ obsessions like the Rothschild family, the Bilderberg Group and the Illuminati.

After the D.N.C. staff member Seth Rich was, according to the police, murdered in a botched robbery attempt on July 10, one of the first inklings of the conspiracy theory that continues to swirl around his death – that he might have been behind the leaked D.N.C. emails that WikiLeaks distributed that summer – was a video posted to YouTube on July 29 of the American RT host Lori Harfenist wondering aloud: “No one in the media is reporting that one of the D.N.C.’s employees who had ready

access to the email servers was just mysteriously murdered in the middle of the night?” But far-right media outlets, and the Republican presidential nominee, had spent the election trafficking in baseless conspiracy theories, too.

As Simonyan pointed out to me, “Fox raised similar questions” about Rich’s death.

And RT’s coverage of Trump had not been wholly uncritical. Chris Hedges, the former Times correspondent, said Trump had “a penchant for lying and deception and manipulation,” and Ed Schultz pleaded with his guests: “Who’s going to stop Donald Trump?” Even the declassified intelligence assessment seemed to struggle to describe what, exactly, made the Russian outlets’ influence on the election so nefarious. It described RT and Sputnik as sitting at the centre of a sprawling social-media network that included “third-party intermediaries and paid social-media users, or ‘trolls.’ ” But it provided no detail about how that might have worked.

The best illustration I was able to find came from John Kelly, the founder and chief executive of a social-media marketing and analytics firm called Graphika. Kelly has been studying the movement of information online since 2007, when, as a communications graduate student at Columbia University, he became interested in the social dynamics of political blogs: the ways in which different sites found and related to one another and amplified one another’s work. He taught himself how to code and developed a program to quantify and map the flow of information within the blogosphere. That led to work on State Department-financed projects at the Berkman Klein Center of Harvard University, mapping the blog networks of Iran and, later, Russia. As the gravitational centre of online conversation shifted from blogs to social-media platforms like Twitter and Facebook, he studied those too. Eventually he built a searchable database that captures millions of social-media interactions, stores them and analyzes them to determine social neighbourhoods in which users share ideologies and interests, which he now mostly uses for private clients.

Shortly after the election, academic and corporate clients hired him to track the proliferation of “fake news” – that is, unequivocally false content. He confined his search to social accounts that shared fake news at least 10 times during the last month of the campaign. This September, in his airy, loft-style office suite on the West Side of Manhattan, he men’s style

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called up the results of the study on a laptop screen. They were visualized as a black sphere on which each of the 14,000 fake-newsspreading accounts appeared as a dot, grouped and colour-coded according to ideological affiliation. The sphere was alive with bursts of purple (“U.S. Conservative”), green (“U.S. Far Left”), pink (“Pro-Russia/WikiLeaks”), orange (“International Right”) and blue (“Trump Core”).

Within the fake-news network, Kelly explained, RT was high on the list of mostfollowed accounts, but it was not the highest – it ranked No. 117 out of roughly 12,000 accounts he was tracking. Its website was the 12th-most-cited by the fake-news consumers and purveyors – ahead of The New York Times and The Washington Post but behind Breitbart and Infowars.

What was more interesting was who followed RT. It drew substantially from all quadrants of Kelly’s fake-news universe – Trump supporters and Bernie Sanders supporters, Occupy Wall Streeters and libertarians – which made it something of a rarity. “The Russians aren’t just pumping up the right wing in America,” Kelly said. “They’re also pumping up left-wing stuff – they’re basically trying to pump up the fringe at the expense of the middle.”

Nearly 20 percent of the fake-newsspreading accounts, Kelly’s analysis determined, were automated bot accounts, of the sort the American intelligence assessment claimed were working in tandem with RT and Sputnik. But who was operating them was unclear – and regardless, they were far outnumbered by accounts that appeared to belong to real human beings, reading and circulating content that appealed to them. In this paranoid, polarized and ill-informed subset of American news consumers, RT’s audience crossed all ideological boundaries.

I

N JANUARY, JUST a few days after the release of the declassified intelligence report, RT hosted a party in New York.

The occasion was the United Nations’ decision to add RT to the internal television system in its Turtle Bay headquarters.

A number of officials gave speeches, including Vitaly Churkin, Russia’s ambassador to the U.N., who would die suddenly in the Russian Mission in New York the following month. (The cause of death was withheld according to diplomatic protocol, though the New York police told The Times they did not suspect foul play.) Alexey Nikolov, RT’s director

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general, also addressed the group. Nikolov is bald with a kindly face and a lilting voice. He began by explaining that he was reading from notes because he was emotional.

“What I see today is more and more frequently people produce the highfalutin talk about using the word ‘propaganda’ that eerily echoes those dark days of the Soviet era, when even thinking their own thoughts, not to mention speaking or printing them, was a crime.” People, he declared, “must have the right to know different news, coming from different sources, and then make their own judgment.”

Putin, Dmitry Kiselyov and Margarita Simonyan.

IT’S HARD TO IMAGINE RUSSIA’S STATE-BACKED MEDIA GETTING ANY TRACTION IN THE UNITED STATES IF THERE WASN’T ALREADY AN AUDIENCE FOR IT.

It was an addendum to “Question More.”

Yes, question more, but also consider more – more news sources, more versions of reality.

It’s a point that you really can’t argue with: Of course everyone should be open to other perspectives and different takes on the news.

In large part, this is why outlets like RT and Sputnik have proved so vexing to the West – and especially so in the United States. The far-right media, and even the president, have embraced what a couple of years earlier might have been the fringe of political discourse. Their financing aside, how exactly do you draw a line between RT and Sputnik and, say, Sean

Hannity, the Fox News host and confidant of the president of the United States, who has also trafficked in conspiracy theories about Seth Rich and mysterious illnesses possibly afflicting Hillary Clinton? Or Infowars, Alex Jones’s paranoid media empire, to which Trump gave an interview during the campaign?

It’s hard to imagine Russia’s state-backed media getting any traction in the United States if there wasn’t already an audience for it. For some subset of Americans, the intelligence report singling out RT and Sputnik was just another attack from the supposed “deep state” that Breitbart, for instance, had been fuming about for months – and it was less than surprising when, this spring, Sputnik hired a former Breitbart reporter, Lee Stranahan, to start a radio show in Washington. As Stranahan told The Atlantic, though his paycheck might now come from the Russians, “Nothing about it really affects my position on stuff that I’ve had for years now.”

When I asked Simonyan recently what she made of the proliferating attempts to map RT’s influence in the Russian information network that United States intelligence agencies describe as a hybrid-war machine, she replied by email: “These projects simply blacklist all reporting, including by American media, as some pro-Russian campaign if any facts or views in them don’t support the right kind of narrative.” At the moment, she said, that narrative was: “All world problems are Putin’s fault.” In her view, “it’s the sad history of McCarthyism repeating itself.”

(These were arguments that echoed Trump’s own.)

It also reflected the genius of “Question More”: Every attempt to contain or counteract the Russian state-backed media’s influence simply validated it.

Churkin, the ambassador, acknowledged as much at RT’s U.N. ceremony. As he stood to speak, he seemed to be almost bouncing on the soles of his feet, delighted at RT’s newfound prominence. “Everybody watches them,” he said. “Diplomats do it, ambassadors do it, foreign ministers do it, heads of state and government do it.” In an oblique allusion to the recent American intelligence report, he noted that some people had been criticizing the network, but perhaps this was not such a bad thing. Grinning, he said: “They sound as if they are P.R. representatives of RT.” (Jim Rutenberg was named The New York Times’s media columnist in January 2016, succeeding David Carr. Jaclyn Peiser contributed reporting from New York and Alexandra Odynova contributed reporting from Moscow.)

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G-STAR Pieces to consider from one of the leading international innovators in denim when new jeans are in order: Above, left , the Lanc 3D Tapered Jeans, which in the spirit of G-Star ingenuity, rethink 3D pattern cutting. The result is an anatomically shaped garment that questions the position

of traditional side seams, and shifts from the side to the front for better shape and more comfortable wear.

Above, right, the 3301 Tapered Jeans – G-Star’s classic five-pocket jean and the cleanest style in the brand’s denim range. Based on the hardwearing labourer’s pant of Western

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Lanc 3D Tapered Jeans, $200; 3301 Tapered Jeans, $190. www.g-star.com/en_au

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RETAIL

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BOSE NAVMAN For on-the-go footage of traffic incidents or accidents, Navman’s new MiVue780 and MiVue850 Dual Cam dashcam (below) allow you to upload video straight to your phone via the device’s new feature, EZYSHARE via WIFI. The MiVue850 Dual Cam even has a second camera for the rear of the car to capture any incidents behind, as well as Advanced Driver Systems (ADAS) safety features. The MiVue850 comes with WQHD 1440P recording through the front camera and the rear camera records at Full HD 1080P. $449; navman.com.au

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This updated version of Bose’s popular noise-cancelling wireless headphones, Quiet Comfort, offers voice access to Google Assistant and settings to control the noise around you. The new QC35 II include the features of the original – industry-defining noise cancellation, audio performance and up to 20 hours of battery life – while the same controls remain on the right earcup – audio volume and the multi-function button for incoming calls and accessing Siri. There’s a new Action Button on the left earcup to connect to your Google Assistant – without having to grab your phone, unlock it, and find the app. $499.95; bose.com.au

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MOCHA SALT This Sydney-based menswear brand launched in 2015 with a collection of swim shorts which are stocked in stores in the US, Australia, Dubai and across Europe. The range has expanded to include high quality menswear basics, linen shorts and t-shirts.

New SS18 short design is based on Shibori, a traditional Japanese manual resist dyeing method, where cloth is bound, stitched, knotted or twisted before being dyed. The result is a collection of indigo patterns, with superimposed bamboo leaf patterns and geometric shapes. From $158, available from December; mochasalt.com

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Belkin has released a stylish 2-in-1 PowerHouse Charge Dock for simultaneous charging of your Apple Watch and iPhone. The Powerhouse Charge Dock features a builtin Magnetic Charging Module for the Apple Watch, which aligns magnetically and begins charging instantly. The dock also features a built-in VersaCase™ Lightning connector that can be adjusted so you don’t need to remove your phone case. $149.95; belkin.com.au

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Skins has released the DNAmic Compression Range For Man featuring camouflage inspired prints for the active man. The range consists of Havana Utility (above) – an active clash of geometric shapes in utilitarian earthy tones that mimic the sharply defined horizon of a city scape, combined with hurried brush stroke textures to give the feeling of moving at a fast pace; and Havana Blizzard, sharply chiseled shapes in cool greys to reflect the natural beauty of an ice covered landscape. Developed with every day athletes and training in mind. skins.net

Panasonic’s DMR-UBT1 is a 4K Ultra HD Premium Blu-ray Player and Full HD Recorder that delivers premium 4K UHD playback, a Twin HD Tuner, and a two terabyte hard disk drive with Full HD recording.

Versatility of use is the key sales point, with the user able to record in Full HD to the 2TB HDD or Blu-ray/DVD disc; view via TV, smartphone or tablet; use the Twin Tuner to record free to air TV programs while watching Netflix; and access TV programs in and out of the home. Panasonic’s ‘TV Anytime’ means you can stream TV to your smart device wherever you are in the world. $1,099; panasonic. com.au

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Founded in the US in 1983, Rabbit is a leader in beautifully designed and highly functional bar and cocktail accessories, now available in Australia. Above right is the Rabbit Stainless steel aerator, ideal for red wine lovers as it instantly improves the flavour and bouquet of the wine by drawing oxygen into the bottle. Left is one of the Rabbit Bottle Stoppers, suitable for wine and champagne bottles of any size and made of silicone with a classic brushed zinc cap that fits snugly into the bottle to create an air-tight seal. Aerator, $52.95; bottle stopper (set of two), $62.95, available through David Jones.

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THE WISDOM

I’m happiest whenever… I least

No, on second thoughts I’d keep that and just change the part in my hair.

expect it. It kind of sneaks up on me. Then, as soon as I’m aware of it, it disappears.

Seeing my mug on TV I want to…

My darkest moods are caused by…

get my teeth fixed.

ennui, man’s inhumanity to man, and an excess of sugar.

The book that I wish everyone would read is… Confederacy of Dunces by John Kennedy Toole.

No! Hang on, Tales From A Tall Forest by Shaun Micallef! Nearly missed an opportunity there to plug the book. Whew!

What keeps me awake at night is… my wife, who in turn is kept

awake by my snoring, who then wakes me up, etc, etc. It’s a slightly less dramatic version of Sartre’s Huis Clos but well worth the price of admission.

In the last dream I had I… went on stage and didn’t know my lines.

Hang on, I’m not sure that was a dream.

If I had to be played by an actor in a biopic I’d want it to be…

Morgan Freeman.

If a song played whenever I walked in the room it’d be…

“Bop Girl” by Pat Wilson.

The funniest word is… ointment.

Just because. To explain is to destroy.

My spirit animal has to be…

a salmon. I’m not sure it has to be a salmon but I like salmon – especially red salmon. It’s not its fighting spirit I admire as it swims up stream to lay its eggs, it’s how attractive it looks on a plate all thinly sliced and covered in canapés.

True style is wearing exactly what someone else is wearing in a magazine ad.

Even if it doesn’t fit and you look uncomfortable.

What makes me laugh loudest is…

my children. Particularly when they fall over.

The most underrated experience is… being a monarch.

The best time of day is… 3:16pm.

This is when our Bichon Frise trots up to me with a tennis ball in its mouth. It used to do it because that’s when the children came home from school but they’re grown up now, so I have to take him outside and throw the damn thing around.

Good health is… being able to walk about. My standards are deliberately low so that I don’t complain when I’m elderly.

My heroes have always been…

greatly diminished the more I find out about them.

Australian politics needs a…

leader who can compromise on strategy, not principle.

I wish more Aussies would… n’t be so stupid.

My best quality has to be… my inordinate modesty.

If I could change anything about myself it’d be… my pathological inability to admit that I’m wrong.

162

men’s style

My guiltiest pleasure is…

cheesecake. Usually a whole one.

True style is… wearing exactly what someone else is wearing in a magazine ad. Even if it doesn’t fit and you look uncomfortable.

You’ll never catch me wearing…

IInterview t i by b MICHAEL ADAMS

SHAUN MICALLEF Australia’s funniest ex-lawyer has a new book and a suitably skewed take on our usual questions testing how wise he really is.

an expression of fulfillment.

I simply can’t stand… up on a rollercoaster.

Family is… the whole point of it all. It’s everything.

Love means… never having to say, “I’m sorry, I thought you were a fellow I knew from Kansas City.”

Life is too short to… compose pithy epigrams.

My epitaph should read… Here lies a man who loved as he lived: prone to exaggeration.

Shaun Micallef’s Tales From A Tall Forest is out now.

MANUFACTURE FLYBACK CHRONOGRAPH Handcrafted in-house movement.

Manufacture Collection : in-house developed, in-house produced and in-house assembled movements.

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