ISSUE Νο 14 | SUMMER 2019
Vougli, Mykonos, Greece | Tel.: +30 6943731919 email@example.com | mykonosestates.com
ATHENS - MYKONOS Athens: 10 Irakleitou Str. & Skoufa Str., tel.: +30 210 3615909 Mykonos: 30 Kalogera Str., tel.: +30 22890 290056 evripides-art.gr evripidesart evripidesart
SPILIA SEA SIDE RESTAURANT & COCTAIL BAR MYKONOS ISLAND
Spilia Sea Side Restaurant Agia Anna Beach, Kalafatis, Ano Mera, Mykonos Island, Tel. (+30) 6949-449729, E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org Architectural design & construction by Nikos Chaniotis. www.spiliarestaurant.gr
AGIA ANNA RESTAURANT & BAR MYKONOS ISLAND
Agia Anna Restaurant Agia Anna Beach, Kalafatis, Ano Mera, Mykonos Island, Tel. (+30) 6934-499888, E-mail: Kyriakos.email@example.com www.saintannarestaurant.gr
ANTIGONE TOP DELFIS SKIRT
SPRING SUMMER 2019
FLAGSHIP BOUTIQUE MYKONOS: 19 Kalogera Str, Mykonos, 84600 ELENA MAKRI MYKONOS BOUTIQUE ATHENS: 7 Kolokotroni Str, Kifissia, 14562
Retail â€“ Decoration â€“ Contract 338 Kifissias Ave., Athens, Greece T. +30 210 6208501 firstname.lastname@example.org
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Natali Niovi Markantonatou Jerry Markantonatos
ARCHITEC TURE & DESIGN
LUXURY VILL A RENTAL S - YACHTS CHAR TERING
KITTY J. LAIOS REAL ESTATE
Kitty J. Laios ATHENS - MYKONOS
LUXURY VILLAS SALES & CONSTRUCTION HQ ORNOS MYKONOS TEL (+30 6932421866), Branch London (+44 7889833000) Branch Riyadh Saudi Arabia (+966 542860504) e-mail: email@example.com | www.nanimadesign.com, www.mykonosluxurycollection.com, www.laios-yachts.gr, www.laios-estate.gr
Vougli, Mykonos, firstname.lastname@example.org
L A LUNA
VILL A SOVEREIGN
VERIDIAN AUR A
YOU ONLY LIVE ONCE, WEâ€™LL SHOW YOU WHERE. ATHENS CIT Y CENTRE - ATHENS RIVIER A - GREEK ISL ANDS - PELOPONNESE
Athens Tower Mesogion Avenue 2-4 11527 Athens, Greece +30 211 0168435 email@example.com www.ev.gr
Souvenir branded products by Seaplusino. The Greek blue Sea, Plus the blue sky, the sun, the hospitality, the people and all your Greek memories. Σουβενίρ brand που περιλαμβάνει την Ελληνική μπλε Θάλασσα, Συν τον μπλε ουρανό, τον ήλιο, τη φιλοξενία, τους ανθρώπους και όλες τις Ελληνικές αναμνήσεις σας!
Ζήστε το στην Ελλάδα!
Souvenirs are... Greek! Eisagogiki Christodoulos A. Moutsos aevenox tel.: 26610 30855 Corfu - Greece | www.moutsos.gr
Women... Greek Accessories!
Greek designs & Greek imaginations. Capture the Greek beauty & Greek mood!
Be inspired by Eva! Τα μπιζού με τα Ελληνικά σχέδια & την Ελληνική Αισθητική.
Αιχμαλωτίστε την Ελληνική ομορφιά & την Ελληνική διάθεση!
Εμπνευστείτε από την Εύα!
Eisagogiki Christodoulos A. Moutsos aevenox - tel.: 26610 30855 Corfu - Greece | www.moutsos.gr
Mykonos Panormos Villas is a blend of minimal and traditional whitewashed Cycladic architecture. The Villas and Suites offer 1-5 Bedroom options, all with spectacular views of the bay, a large variety of tailor made services and gastronomy, plenty of outdoor living space, beautiful pools and resident and guest parking. The villasâ€™ private location and wide array of services make them an ideal holiday choice for families, friends, couples and groups who want to experience the relaxed luxury lifestyle that our private villas offer. Interior and exterior living spaces have been constructed of the highest quality materials and are decorated with comfortable, stylish furnishings and carefully selected artwork that enhance the overall ambiance of this beautiful setting. The resort is located 5km from Mykonos town and the airport.
P a n o r m o s, M y ko n o s, Te l . : + 3 0 2 2 8 9 0 7 7 5 9 6 R e s e r v a t i o n s Te l : + 3 0 2 1 0 9 6 1 4 2 0 1 w w w. m y ko n o s p a n o r m o s v i l l a s. c o m M y ko n o s P a n o r m o s V i l l a s m y ko n o s p a n o r m o s v i l l a s /
M Y K O N O S Tel +30 22890 23107
Fax +30 22890 24307
Aleomandra Ornou 84600 Mykonos Tel.: +30 22890 - 26814 Fax: +30 22890 - 26817 e-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org enlefko.com.gr/en
The ripple of the water on the side, The ripple of girlsâ€™ laughter at the stern... I stood upon the sail of Greece at last! Oscar Wilde
La Stella Boutique Stay Glastros Mykonos|84600|tel.+30 email@example.com
SUMMER DREAMS, SEAFOOD SINS
Kaminaki, Old Port of Mykonos, +30 2289078950, SalparoMykonos
I beach it again
Meet the coastal way of life by beach hopping
Drink up the island and stir some fun
The devotees and the new faces of 2019
Rebels&Renegades The original sinners who made Mykonos a saint
Antony Gormley welcomes the new "inhabitants" of Delos
The photographer Memoirs of Robert McCabe in black&white
I want it all
The style of this summer is revealed on these pages
138 R I Z E S
A reviving architectural project on the island
C R I M E
63 the buzZ.
The superb arrivals and all you need to know to be fully informed.
S T O RY
The murder of Mimis Zouganellis
The first bar of Mykonos
270 T H E B O O K
Michael Skafidas "A Hamptons cottage at Ano Mera"
L E C AG E AU F O L L E S A show to remember
T H E AU T H E N T I C TA S T E O F M Y KO N O S
by Fragiskos Monogios
Some naked myths Della Rounick talks about art
Break it Gold
A question for the Mykonians by Jeffrey Siger
by Thomas Iser
E D I T O R I A L
I D E N T I T Y
G U I D E
Wounded island by Giannis Galatis
THEY BELONG TOGETHER. Οι κάρτες Diners Club συναντούν το Bonus!
Με τις κάρτες Diners Club ανήκετε σε ένα μοναδικό club διεθνούς κύρους και αποκλειστικών προνομίων! Τώρα, οι κάρτες συμμετέχουν στο Πρόγραμμα Bonus με διπλάσια αναλογία συλλογής πόντων (2XBonus πόντοι), για να κερδίζετε καθημερινά και να ζείτε ξεχωριστές εμπειρίες! Παράλληλα, εξακολουθείτε να απολαμβάνετε τα προνόμια του Diners Club, όπως πρόσβαση σε exclusive lounges σε επιλεγμένα αεροδρόμια, ταξιδιωτικούς οδηγούς, ταξιδιωτική ασφάλιση καθώς και μοναδικές γαστρονομικές εμπειρίες. Μάθετε περισσότερα στο www.alpha.gr/cards
Fancy a place to relax? Head for the hotels of the island
The young architect talks about the "rock" side of Mykonos
How to eat up Mykonos and savour the most of it
This is our Westworld
When in Mykonos, fashion is the ultimate blockbuster
A pair of designer's shoes is never enough
Some objects of desire to make you shine
Publisher & Editor-in-Chief Creative Art Director KONSTANTINOS VAVILOUSSAKIS Managing Editor IRA SINIGALIA Exclusive Photos for Mykonos Confidential JOHN DIMOTSIS Senior Editor VIVI VOURTSA Guest Editor MICHAEL SKAFIDAS Editor LOLA SKALTSA Translations AMELIA ZAVACOPOULOS, JASON MICHAILIDIS English Proof Reading AMELIA ZAVACOPOULOS Creative Art Directors MARIA BETINAKI, NIKOS MICHALONAKOS Photoshop IRINI ALEXI Photo Services SHUTTERSTOCK IMAGES Fashion - Market Fashion Editor STEFANOS ZAOUSIS Photos KOSTAS AVGOULIS Assistant Î¡hotographer FILIPPOS MAGALIAS Associate EVELINA LAGOU Advertising Department Commercial Director ZOE PERISANIDOU Advertising Director GIORGOS ANDRITSOPOULOS Advertising Managers RENA PAPADAKI, NONDAS DABANIS, FLORITA FILIA Sales Support ANTHI MIRMIGIANNI firstname.lastname@example.org, tel. +30 2106106187-8 P.A. to Editor-in-Chief KATERINA SINEKOGLOU Marketing Creative Manager AGGELIKI GOURNI Digital Media Manager DIMITRIS GOLEGOS I.T. Manager MICHALIS KOURTIS Production Printing - binding PRIVIA IKE Administration Financial Manager MARIA GATSI Chief Accountant KATERINA GEORGALI tel. +30 210 6106187-8 Tax & Accounting Services YOUR CONFIDENCE S.A. Legal Advisor LOUKAS OIKONOMOU tel. +30 210 4123061 Responsible against the law PETROS BOUROVILIS
IDENTITY MEDIA LTD Creative design - Production & Publishing 50 Psaron Str., 15343, Ag. Paraskevi, email: email@example.com, Tel. +30 210 6106187-8 MYKONOS CONFIDENTIAL magazine is an IDENTITY MEDIA SA edition, 50 Psaron Str., 15343, Ag. Paraskevi. Tel: +30 210 6106187-8, fax +30 210 6106189. For all mailed printed material, texts and photographs, the publishing house automatically acquires the right to publish. Texts and photographs mailed to the magazine to be published are not returned to sender. Reproduction of any form in whole or in part without prior permission of the publisher is unlawful. The views and opinions expressed therein are those of the editors and do not necessaringly represent the views and opinions of the publisher and the owner of the magazine.
52 | MYKONOS CONFIDENTIAL
"The Hawk" silver pendant
PHOTO: A. KOUKOUSAS
Ag.Kyriakis sqr. Mykonos Tel. +30 22890 27 320, Em. Benaki 8 Kifissia Tel. +30 210 62 33 577 Discover more www.minastudio.com minasdesigns
A Sin — On this soil, purification passes through sin. It goes without saying that while there is plenty of room for everyone, Mykonos is not for everyone – or everyone is not for Mykonos; From experience, I can confidently and confidentially claim that for those who reject the island (or are they rejected by it?) the most probable excuse or explanation is because it has the most exacting code of immorality in the world, but also because it offers a transient opportunity to shed everything that defines your identity, among other things. I can distinguish the ones who went to Mykonos and did not have a good time (yes, even this kind exists), and the ones who have never been to Mykonos because they are self - imposed that they would never have a good time; either because they feel this sinful island offends the cultural narrative of their holidays (my ass!) or because they (think that) they cannot afford it financially. And these are the ones who have dressed Mykonos in such a tight mini skirt, that even the thought of it makes your breathing heavy. I am dead certain that the issue is primarily ideological and (very) secondarily, financial. In fact, this particular case reminds me of all the people who want to go to heaven, but no one wants to die. But unfortunately, my dear all, these are the people who never get it: Mykonos is like the opera: it ain’t over until the fat lady sings. This makes Mykonos the ultimate in beauty, the ultimate in style, the ultimate in kitsch; the ultimate unique and the ultimate nothing, all at once, in unlimited new doses and editions. And the person who cannot understand that, well, he is the one who
called Mykonos. cannot afford Mykonos in any way. The same goes for people with savoir faire certificates from Oxford, sort of speak, and from their ideological Rive Gauche, who cannot leave their daily routine behind and are too wrapped up in their social and moral trip to even cross the threshold of Mykonos’ hedonistic duty free; to imbibe the antidote to civilisation, free from prefabricated molds, liberated not only from their clothes but from everything that might connect them to their public role, thus allowing them to become people without boundaries and prone to sin, without limitations, without specific attributes at the end of the day. It is what it is; the truth is that if you want a place in the sun, you’re gonna have to get and stand some blisters. Do not rush to call me a cynic, for a cynic is someone who smells flowers and immediately starts looking around for the coffin. And that is why I am entitled to say that the matter is more mental or ideological. Under the ideal circumstances, the Mykonos boot camp is large enough for us (them) all, but to be honest, the island isn’t really going to break a sweat. Visitors always bring Mykonos joy; some when they arrive, and others when they leave. For the rest, ourselves included of course,
the island is already well understood; that this is what Mykonos always was, and always should be: celebratory and festive; a moveable feast, as Papa Hemingway put it. We understand that you do not have such liberty of behaving inappropriately anywhere else; a kind of post-Oedipal social waltz where the only prohibition is the “temporary prohibition of everything prohibitive”. What is better than understanding and accepting that the best things in life are either immoral, semi or quite illegal or fattening? And the so-called sins always balance on the threads of contrasts. And there is a serious reason they develop along the axes of life and death, heaven and hell, purity and sin. At the same time, however, they condemn the senses to a subdued presence, colourless and tasteless, almost sleepy. Not so on this island; “The haven of the sensory and of the extra sensory” stubbornly pushes away privative suffixes, and immerses itself greedily in a game of the senses that is boldly served in abundance on its barren rocks. That’s why I claim – I really do – that those “gurus” of Tourism Marketing who are ignorant enough or ridiculous enough to insist on explaining and selling the island as, more or less, only a mi-
Visitors always bring Mykonos joy; some when they arrive, and others when they leave.
There is no room for selfflagellation on this island. It is consciously arrogant. It answers only to its crazed wind. raculous “sun and beach” brand, frankly, they don’t know shit! Excuse my French but they are only doing half the job and quite simply, they are missing the point; they skip over the fact that the ideal alternative holiday destination of the 1960’s has been metamorphosed into a Mecca of unparalleled sinful hedonism. And the truth is that, as we speak, Mykonos has become the ‘Big Apple’ not only of the Aegean, but of the entire Mediterranean. Its small dimension becomes a veil which, when pulled away, reveals a hidden El Dorado. An extra-large dreamland in which the most serious of deadly sins become a simple misdemeanour. There is no room for self-flagellation on this island. It is consciously arrogant. It answers only to its crazed wind. Of course, you can always blame the apple for everything, red and juicy as it is: you chase it all day in the hope that once you bite into it, it will beam you up to a world beyond, where strict taciturn divisions break down each other’s barriers and penetrate into timeless fluidity. Sin defines our weaknesses, the acceptance of our transience and, in a final analysis, our “I – saw – the – light” tendency towards catalysis (that’s what laws are made for). The point, however, is not the philosophy (or is it?); it is the light, the crazy wind, the white curves, the promising alleyways, the essence of saltiness, the most
feminine full moon, the fiery waves crashing against the rocks, the impulsive parties, the caressed sand, the sweet isolation and the unique explosion of eternity in just a fraction of a second. On this soil, purification passes through sin. This rock makes up for its isolation with open horizons, so it’s no coincidence that the island is reminiscent of Patrick Süskind’s film “Perfume”. It silently releases an erotic eau de parfum, which, in a manner inexplicable to neuroscience, is relieved once you leave. Mykonos nurtures the guilty lust for others, because the island itself is created to live life to the maximum. Mykonos nurtures the guilty envy for others, because the island itself is created by comparisons. It is the ‘Gomorrah of the Med’, you might hear; beware! But wait a second; is it so wrong to want it all? Isn’t human nature greedy? Isn’t Life always thirsty for action and fun? To glut – suck out the marrow and lick all the pleasure and pain you can out of the bones?
And this sanctuary, with its magic, motivates you to want it all here and now: the greed of the experience of desire. On this land you are a realist, because you simply seek the impossible; an emotional cosmogony that finds its territorial plasticity somewhere between Mykonos and Delos, the sacred island of the ancients, and the commercial centre of the Classical era. It can’t be. All this affluence of matter and intellect must have left enough of a mark for the island to now pulsate and expand like a stray asteroid in the Aegean. Heavenly body and spirit or, in other words, the much-talkedabout energy of the place… So, what is left? The society of the spectacle, which Guy Debord defines as “the decline of being into having, and having into merely appearing,” a state that he describes as “that historical moment at which the commodity completes its colonization of social life. Thus, the spectacle is not a collection of images; rather, it is a social relationship between people that is mediated by images.” And in
a world in which everything is constantly being turned upside down, the truth is no more than a momentary lie. In the case of Mykonos, though, this kind of Marxist approach has no place. When we talk about the society of the spectacle, we simply mean that we have all become a spectacle, flashing our pride and provoking wrath. To stick up for the island, I wouldn't consider that such a bad thing; quite the opposite in fact. Because at the end of the day, is it so bad to allow a little glamour to brighten our national blues? The whole experience might be irritating for some, or indeed everyone, but between you and me, rather than a serious and constipated nothing, I would prefer a theme park or a carnival with barkers encouraging us to “roll up, roll up and gaze in wonder at the three – headed frog and the disembodied head!” A social bazaar in which the only prohibition is the prohibition of every prohibition. But that's what this place should be and what it always has been: a festival. Nowhere else you do have such freedom
to behave inappropriately. Enter a Mecca of unparalleled hedonism, the ideal place for people who would rather party than sleep, or who want to develop their acquaintanceship with a bottle of fine whiskey, the wild life is added to a hedonistic cocktail of sun, sea, music, cheap alcohol and drugs, sex and an expectation of extremes, even when being in a state of sloth. Anything can happen here. It is an epic of excess with plenty of opportunities for one night stands. As DH Lawrence has put it, “that was what they all wanted, a drug: the slow water, a drug; the sun, a drug; jazz, a drug; cigarettes, cocktails, ices, vermouth. To be drugged! Enjoyment! Enjoyment!” The enclave is a place of hedonism and comes obligation-free, like Fitzgerald’s Riviera, where although the body, as an object either of desire or of pity, becomes “vulgar” (the term as used by Baudrillard, that intellectual of critical irony), it is at the same time absolute, because it no longer has any value or depth. “Ecstasy,” says Baudrillard, “is the quality proper to anybody that spins until all sense is lost, and then shines forth in its pure and empty form.” Or, to spell it out, when you behave like a convict on the run. And don't imagine that I use these words lightly.
A social bazaar in which the only prohibition is the prohibition of every prohibition.
Here you are on the threshold, where life and the law, inside and outside, civilization and the natural state, become confused. Whether or not you have graduated in savoir-faire from Eton, leaving behind your home, the daily grind and your social and ethical environment to enter this entrenched, exclusive and obligation-free Twilight Zone, it means swallowing the antidote to civilisation. Free from constraints, away from home and “naked”, liberated, that is, not only from your clothes but from anything that might link you with your public role, you become a person without boundaries, without ties, without substance, and in the end, without qualities. Because, quite simply, the sun abhors such thoughts. And once you are, inevitably, caught in the web of even the mildest form of possession – in which you will be caught, even if you think you're untouchable – to which you surrender with more or less talent or certainty, for just a little you taste (like every possessed person) the passive joys of a loss of identity and the more active pleasure of role-playing. That's the Mykonos Boot Camp. A carnival that carries in its bags the colonial roots of the naked life. An anti-religion of the senses that is characterized by the primacy of pleasure, together with coded innuendo promising sexual adventure. Let's help one another, so that we can arrive at a place where the bed takes the place of the polity, as Sade would have it, along with other Sadian aphorisms of pleasure such as “I have the right to enjoy your body and you have the same right to enjoy mine”. And, please, do not tell me now that you have never, not even from a place of safety, imagined that in the vocabulary of tourism, any reference to freedom might contain a coded message of sexual adventure. Come off it! It was more or less in this way that the isle, like Bataille's Festival of Rapture, acquired the reputation, but also the clientele, of a place with an eroticised morality, serving up countless different kinds of brief encounters, and opportunities to rid oneself of whatever defines one's personality. And don’t let me hear you
argue that this transcendental aspect of the Mykonian summer – or the summer on any island, to be fair – is a clarion call to return to nature. Because if it was, everyone would flood in like naive hippies with flowers in their hair, bright Ouzo Power T-shirts and the peace symbol, to pick flowers on the hills around Ano Mera. I'm talking about something deeper here, which can explain why the island functions as a Club of Youth, the luxurious setting for the emotional education of every outgoing young person. Here on the island, rules are in abeyance, not done away with. Breaking a rule does not suppress it, but suspends it. Transgressing it completes it. And this is a matter of to-ing and fro-ing, just like the flying trapeze at the Cirque: the taboo prevents the infringement, but its attractiveness demands it. This strange dual economy of desire and aversion, of what is admired and what is deplored, or of infringement and affirmation, explains how it is that a tourist, oscillating between two poles, becomes a party animal and a Don Juan
(whether a bargain basement version or not is unimportant). And then, when everyone goes back to work in September and has to sober up or seek refuge from their families, they will come and tell you about their holiday as a cultural narrative or a traveller’s tale. My ass! I don't know what happens in Paris, but right here, it is sexual desire that, as an integral part of the process, has established tourism as a carnivalistic practice. And finally, if eroticism is defined as “assenting to life even in death” in the words of Georges Bataille, then what is Mykonos? Perhaps it is Greece’s last stronghold, perhaps it is the meaning of life. And finally, is Mykonos a Club of Sins? Well, Oscar Wilde, put it this way in The Picture of Dorian Gray: “You will always be fond of me. I represent to you all the sins you never had the courage to commit.”
/ I N V I D I A / One of the most basic emotions has descended into the hellish list of seven. The pinprick, which wakes everyone when the issue at stake is the verb “to own”, is omnipresent even in the wise men of the Ganges. I am jealous, therefore I exist, therefore I am a serial sinner. Aphorisms can wait. Given that there is no Holy Inquisition on Mykonos, you have the right to be jealous because it is a good reason to get going—if we believe the various selfimprovement manuals, that is. Now, how you’ll manage to install a jealousy-filter when you see the Pharaonic villas touching the waves, is clearly a personal matter.
Pool Suites & Maisonettes
Leap into luxury
T: +30 2289440100 | firstname.lastname@example.org | mykonosriviera.gr
/ E N V Y/ I N V I D I A /
.brave new best 2019
The secret is the endless renewal, a creative source that works wonders! Mykonos offers herself generously with her wild, cultural and glamorous side. Meet the newcomers and the big fashion additions and confess your feeling of unrest until you witness all.
— Τ ΕΧ Τ S B Y VIVI VOU RT S A, L OL A S KALT S A
26 N E W S
F E E D
SPYROS AGGELOPOULOS/ PHOTO COURTESY OF DIO HORIA GALLERY
EVENTS PA G E
kalo Livadi PA G E 6 6 & 7 4
The 10th anniversary of the
xlsior Festival PA G E
An island that "bridges" cultures. the Palace at 4 a.m. —
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It's about "temporarily incorporate works of contemporary art in order to ultimately redefine monumental heritage".
NEON in collaboration with the Ephorate of Antiquities of Cyclades presents an exhibition that “travels” past to the present through unique pieces of art. This exhibition of contemporary art is inspired by the collection of the Archaeological Museum of Mykonos. It takes its title from an iconic work by Alberto Giacometti. “The Palace at 4 a.m.” is a small wooden sculpture he created in 1932 and referred to archaeological sites such as Delos. The island’s statues, architectural fragments, vessels and tombstones collected in the museum are attributes of a cosmopolitan citizen that disappeared two millennia ago. Just as Delos once brought together people from across the ancient world, “The Palace at 4 a.m.” features a global roster of 13 artists. Their work is juxtaposed with the museum’s collection and additional treasures selected by the archaeologists of the Ephorate of Antiquities of Cyclades. Lynda Benglis; Haris Epaminonda; Simone Fattal; Petrit Halilaj; Ian Law; Maria Loizidou; Daria Martin; Duro Olowu; Zohra Opoku; Rena Papaspyrou; Stefania Strouza; Barthélémy Toguo and Paloma Varga Weisz participate in the exhibition.“. You will be able to visit the museum and admire the artists' creations until 31/10. Visiting hours: 08:30-15:00
© PANOS KOKKINIAS/COURTESY OF NEON
Archaeological Museum of Mykonos
/ E N V Y/ I N V I D I A /
25 call me "Apathia" —
Mykonos Biennale 2019
24 art Alert —
TOP: TASOS VRETOS
Dio Horia Boasting Greek roots and an international outlook, the gallery continues its summer program with two unique exhibitions. The first one presents the Spanish artist Javier Galleja, in his first solo exhibition in Greece. In his drawings and paintings, childlike characters with large, penetrating eyes are the protagonists in humorous and often uncanny situations (June 28-July 24). The second is the work of the visual artist Spyros Aggelopoulos. It is a tribute to the great storytelling tradition of Greek shadow-puppet theatre and americanized popular media. For Aggelopoulos, pop culture is the mythology of our times, and as such it has the power to help people understand themselves and their place in the world. 28/6-16/8, diohoria.com
Apathia is the main theme of the Biennale, a notion that includes the pandemic of indigestion that overcasts humanity, a serenity that is not reminiscent peace, but an uncomfortable silence, a charged stillness. Time has aged, fashion repeats itself and the future looks nostalgic. Based on this context, the modules of the festival will showcase the refusal of understanding and the power to survive through the Treasure Hunt in Delos Island, the Night of Philosophy, the events in the School of Fine Arts, the Video Graffiti, the Dramatic Nights, the dance and music performances and the Rite of the Pigéage. 21-24/6, mykonosbiennale.com
/ E N V Y/ I N V I D I A /
Bringing a sense of excessive fun, dance and party mood, it immediately became part of the island's strong nightlife
the Project —
You don’t have to go to Ibiza to live the experience of the famous club, because as of this year it’s dropped anchor at the Island of the Winds. Anyone who has spent even one evening in one of the “Blue Marlins” which now operate in Ibiza, Dubai and Los Cambos, Mexico, knows that this catering brand is identified with frenzied revelry and extravagance. The club will attract the international jet set and clubs such as “Nammos” and “Scorpios” will definitely see their audience undermined. Notably, “Blue Marlin” won’t operate as an autonomous club, but will be the beach club restaurant of the new “Aegon Mykonos Autograph Collection by Marriott” hotel. Kalo Livadi, +30 6943119944, bluemarlinibizamykonos.com
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Its upscale accommodation is refreshed and its services have been enriched in the rhythm of DuoViolins
There’s always something to keep you on your toes at Kensho. This year, the first is the general renovation which adds even more style and character to the hotel. It seems to have upscaled its overall ambience. Aegean architecture meets local stone and aged wood. Inside, 29 luxury rooms and suites tell their own stories. The second comes with a touch of music and melodies. Dining on the water’s edge takes on a brilliant new twist with DuoViolins, who rock Kensho Psarou every Thursday evening by playing exhilarating adaptations of classic and modern hits. And do not forget to spoil yourself at the Kensho Beach Spa. At this well-being and beauty powerhouse, therapeutic rituals instantly calm and uplift you. Psarou, +30 22890 29002, kenshomykonos.com
TOP: ©STAVROS HABAKIS, BOTTOM: DIMITRIS POUPALOS
/ E N V Y/ I N V I D I A /
Inspired by the holistic raw beauty.
"rebel" Thing —
The Wild Hotel The one great thing about the Wild hotel is its location. Situated on a tip of the island which remains raw and pure, the Wild looks over a tiny beach – front village once named by the locals ‘the wild ones’ as it was for years inhabited by the fiercest and bravest fishermen of Mykonos. Now, a tranquil, picturesque port that brings to light how Mykonos used to look like. Simple, raw, beautiful and wild. The second is its design made by Interni which makes tribute to the simplicity of the Cycladic beauty and the strong character of a remote corner on the island. The third is its new spa area inspired by the raw beauty of the place. Aghia Anna (Kalafatis), +30 22890 72600, 72500, thewildhotel.com
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20 10 Years of... —
Ten years after the first feast of free expression in gay community, XLSIOR is now considered an institution and perhaps the best in the world. Supported by the locals, businessmen and visitors of the island, the festival draws its inspiration and success from Mykonos, the positive vibe of the people, but also from the imagination of the organisers who every year strive for new and original ideas. It’s also no accident that the festival does a huge tour in over 25 cities all over the world, raising expectations as well as the island’s popularity. —xlsiorfestival.com
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release of Art —
Evripides Art Gallery Α new temple of art on Mykonos is Evripides Art Gallery, that will be part of the Mykonos Art Scene in collaboration with the international recognized Greek designer Dassios. Mykonos is leading the charge in cultural out-put, attempting to match its cosmopolitan image with its artistic draw and it constitutes the gate for international cooperations for new artists. After a successful season in Athens, Evripides Art Gallery is now displaying in their space on Mykonos, on interplay between Art & Fashion, committing to promote leading Greek artists with art collectors and other artists through its exhibitions the whole summer. evripides-art.gr.
19 Creativity lies behind art and taste.
salt & Glory —
This summer, you will come across another surprise and it will be something that combines taste and popularity, a success story that comes from the east. It is about the 14th restaurant of Nusret Gökçe, known as Salt Bae, who has reached an agreement with the Nammos Group. The famous former butcher became popular through a Greek-Turkish reality show and his idiosyncratic way of salting the meats he cooked. Nusret Gökçe had great success in Constantinople, New York and Miami, creating fans that follow him, forming lines at hia restaurants. This season, all Salt Bae devotees will have a chance to enjoy his special style in the new restaurant at Chora. Pilakiou Str., +30 22890 22440
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TOP: JOHN DIMOTSIS
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study in Light
Athens School of Fine Arts-Mykonos
Twenty representative paintings from Sotiris Sorogas’ long and fertile career will be exhibited at the Mykonos Artistic Station of the Athens School of Fine Arts, an exhibition dedicated to one of the most significant teachers of modern Greek painting, presented with the assistance of “Skoufa” gallery and curated by the art historian George Mylonas. The broken fishing boats, the driftwood from the sea, find “shelter” on the artist’s canvas and in the new creators' conservatory, at the beloved island’s centre. Soroga’s personal idiom with stones, ancient fragments, boats, rotten pieces of wood, all bathed in light, is part of the spirit and special traditions of Mykonos and Delos. Rochari area, +30 22890 22289
intellectual Designer —
Dassios boutique Mykonos Meet the "theatrical" designer by paying a visit at its new boutique on Mykonos. Dimitris Dassios is the classic example of an energetic and talented man, who shines in everything he attempts, as he does it with love, passion and spirit. He could very well be characterised as an innovative, intellectual fashion designer, with runways being an example of his creativity. He started presenting his collections in private exhibitions since 2005, as a member of Hellenic Fashion Designers Association. Now, the Dassios collections are presented in interesting fashion exhibitions in Milan, Paris and New York. They’re also presented by significant fashion boutiques from around the world. 30 N. Kalogera Str., +30 22890 29056, dassios.com
Its designs are inspired by traditions of the whole world and they are expressed by colorful items.
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The Legacy of hospitality and music. luxurious Comfort â€”
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Take advantage of its privileged position to make the most out of your stay and not let even one minute unexploitable.
Boasting traditional architecture combined with premium services and a privileged location, Legacy Suites can be your central base for exploring the island in minutes. The seven suites with the carefully chosen furniture and with attention to detail, can "host" your expetations for an accomodation where less is more. They are the hospitable environment where you can spend your free time in a sophisticated way. Built on a mountain slope with a view of the blue Aegean and the incomparable beauty of Mykonos, it offers a relaxing stay becoming the contemporary serene that will keep you for a bit longer on the island. Extra tip, the garden. The old getaway of famous violinist Menuhin has turned into magical garden with panoramic sunset views overlooking the beach of Megali Ammos. Its spirit captures you somewhere between the head and the heart. The place is available from18:00 till 00:00 for the guests of the property as well as for external visitors. legacy-mykonos.com
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14 the cult Spot —
PHOTO: STAVROS KASTRINAKIS
Municipal gallery of Mykonos It welcomed the summer season in all its spaces with a full agenda. The exhibits and presentations have already started, but there’s a lot more that you can see until October. There’s the work of Bjorn Roe “Mykonos: Fading landscapes”, Lily Mylona’s “Second life”, the exhibition “Back to the roots in Mykonos” by Arnaud Bourgain and also the works of Christina Vlachaki in the collection “Memories of sea & lava”. Of note, from 21/8 to 20/9 there’ll be a visual tribute to an important artist, titled “MARIA IGGLESI (18821942): A pioneering Mykonos painter”. It’s an event you don’t want to miss. Various venues, +30 22890 27190
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check-in Future â€”
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Two artful hotel premises leading to the beach, dictate an everlasting mood of interplay between the notions of "Revive at the beach"
There are dreams and there are fairytales that become a reality. The latter is expressed in the new member of the Marriott chain, Aegon Mykonos, Autograph Collection that has opened in Kalo Livadi. The beachfront luxury hotel seems to have come out of a contemporary version of a Cycladic seaside village. The five star hotel complex has 76 rooms and suites. With a stylish decor of handmade furniture and objects, the rooms and suites in Aegon Mykonos have a view of the pool or the sea. They are embellished with indulgent private pools, hot tubs, in-room entertainment, spa and fitness facilities. The Aegon Mykonos accommodation will serve for a narcissistic, vibrant and passionate Mykonos holiday, awakened by the overwhelming spirit and light echoing the Ancient site of Delos. Guests have a choice of two pools and three restaurants, one of them being the Beach Club & Restaurant Blue Marlin Ibiza | Mykonos, two pool bars and two beach bars. Kalo Livadi, +30 6949667733, aegonmykonos.com
The Garden Bar of Mykonos This could be the Garden of Eden, as here enjoyment peaks and the environment is enchanting. What wouldn’t you give to have a drink watching the sunset while the relaxing sea breeze caresses your face… Garden Bar has a large variety of herbs from the Greek soil, unique spirits and personalised cocktails, designed and served in handmade glassware with a special presentation. Also, one of the best wine collections from Greece and around the world. Despotika, +30 6932545616
12 The lounge feeling is all around.
all senses Connection —
SantAnna Spa Joining forces is a way to rule. Maybe that’s the thought behind the collaboration of the renowned BeautyWorld by Despina Gavala with the SantAnna of the Nice n Easy group. The new spa is tucked away in the caverns beneath the stunning SantAnna pool. A variety of blissful and rejuvenating treatments are available in specially-customized treatment rooms for optimum peace and privacy. It provides anything from full-body treatments in the serene spa suites, to multisensory workouts and quick 30-minute on-the-go blow dries. You will be sure to find the perfect pampering session to leave you feeling rested and restored. Paraga, +30 22890 25805, santannamykonos.com
TOP: JOHN DIMOTSIS
meet us at the Porch
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my precious Souvenirs
Principote Agora - Cycladic Art
There is another reason to visit Principote one more time before you leave the island. It is the small figurines that you will find making you feel that you are in a seaside museum of Cycladic culture. Small art objects, idols, amphorae, vases, all certified by the Museum of Cycladic Art are available at the Principote's new store in Agora, together with elegant jewellery inspired by ancient Greece. Objects that can grace your home, but also are ideal gifts, as the Cyclades are ingrained in them. Panormos, +30 22890 77184, principote.com
temple of Greek design —
AL GIGA MYKONOS Passionate about Greek designers and the modern style they represent, Al Giga came to Greece and established itself as one of the main supporters of new and abiding talent in the country. The boutique is like a dictionary of Greek design, where you can find collections of many remarkable designers and be informed about the country’s fashion trends. Its new space is a window for those who want to gaze at the prospects of Greek fashion, hosting exclusive collections of distinctive clothes and jewellery from the most notable and successful designers, including Daphne Valente Cutcuutur, Apostolos Mitropoulos, ileana Makri, Liana Camba and Ioanna Courbella. 6 Sotiros Str., +30 22893 06730
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08 great Expectations —
Engel & Völkers Real estate in the Cyclades is a solid capital investment, making Mykonos an area of high demand. Specifically the areas that are near the villages Chora, Tourlos and Aleomandra near Mykonos town, as well as the areas near the beaches Kalo Livadi, Kalafati and Ftelia. According to Natalie Leondaraki, managing director of Engel & Völkers, “the Greek economy is recovering after the years in crisis and this financial development has positive consequences for the real estate market, as buyers in Greece have a renewed confidence.” engelvoelkers.com
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sleeping Beauty —
See the bigger picture and live the experience of your land and comfort on the island.
We all want to live a part of a fairytale: the midnight dance, the glass pump, the house made of sweets or even the tranquility of a good night's sleep that makes you feel like a princess or a prince. It's common sense that you shouldn’t leave your health and relaxation to chance. Candia Strom is the combination of experience, technical excellence and the implementation of reliable and quality products, resulting in the production of innovative mattresses for two generations. The company’s craftsmen with respect, knowhow and experience, use natural materials in all stages of production to handcraft a perfect product for a restful and rejuvenating sleep. Candia Strom products can be found not only in Greece, but in 10 more countries in a total of 27 shops. One is next to you on your favorite island. Klouvas, +30 22890 24381, candia-strom.gr
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back in time and new Design —
Summer time in design and taste.
05 italian Allure —
TOP: © ROMAIN LAPRADE
I Frati Having landed on Mykonos does not mean that you will not enjoy your favorite Italian delicacies. Mykonos has a new spot for the lovers of cappuccino, panna cotta or tiramisu. With a stunning view of Delos across the sea, enjoy your breakfast along with a fresh brewed espresso in the new Italian spot that pays tribute to pizzas, risotto, pasta and great desserts. Taste also the delicacies from the mozzarella bar and the meat dishes for extra doses of Italian tastes. For the ending, have a Pasqualini coffee. Ano Mylos, +30 22890 26524, fratimykonos.com
Interni has made us wait for something extraordinary every time and it keeps its promise. Ftelia beach Club perfectly situated on Ftelia bay reminds us of something of an old beautiful era: designed and contemporary but at the same time you have the feeling of an old memory. A lively, relaxed, and fun atmosphere where you will enjoy its seductive, Mediterranean-inspired gastronomic selection. Enjoy your day or your evening, sitting on the beach. Small flags, terracotta shells, classic chairs made of wood and straw and the characteristic white constructions “travel” us back to cheerful times, simple but pleasant. And yet, so full of luxury services and amenities. Ftelia, +30 22890 71400, fteliabeachclub.com
Guess The fervent followers of the brand will rejoice by the news of the new arrival on the island. Just a few months ago, the label of Guess has been put on the door of its new store. It develops on two levels of a total area of 54 sq.m implementing a series of architectural and electromechanical interventions, accompanied by new investments and colors. As all the brand's stores, it follows the common corporate architecture chosen by Guess to host its collections and summer items. —10 M. Andronikou Str., +30 22890 77749, guess.eu
04 Taste even the unexpected everywhere.
order some Ice cream —
Kayak The delicious treasures of Kayak, with Cycladic fragrance, mythical flavours and Mykonos influence, extend the sensational colourful range of their ice creams. Using pure, fresh, high quality ingredients, excellent knowhow and attention to detail, the Kayak specialists seduce with their creations. You should by now have an appetite for some ice cream for sure. No worries, the new Kayak store in Drafaki, has great news to share with you: A special eco bike makes eco friendly deliveries to the whole island. Your ice cream is just a call away. —Drafaki, +30 22890 28246, kayak.com
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dreamy Art presentations —
A result of the hotel’s heartfelt wish to upgrade the brand’s cultural identity and promote the local modern artists’ excellent work. The gallery aims to preserve the land’s historic and intellectual heritage, but also to give opportunities for the exploration of new artistic horizons. In 2019, the gallery will host more than 90 creators. The selection of artists and their works is done through the Restart Cultural Tourism program, which is connected to the strengthening of international interest in Greek art. —Aphrodite Hotel, Kalafatis Beach, +30 22890 71367 & 71368, aphrodite-mykonos.com
beauty Matters after all —
Elysian Luxury Beauty Salon When it come to beauty care, it is better to trust the most updated places and address to experienced professionals for a complete treatment and right counsels. There is another reason as well. You want to experience the pampering "journey" of beauty and hair care. So, the die is cast and you have visited the new beauty salon. What do you expect? You will have the pleasure and also the proper attention that is required. It’s time to abandon yourself to expert hands, with the most quality products and enjoy every single moment of your stay at the marvellous space of Elysian. —Drafaki, elysianluxury.gr
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The way of summer is here For vacations with style, comfort and luxury, SantAnna has the means to impress you!
SantAnna welcomes you to the Mediterranean summer, in the heart of Mykonos, offering shady cabanas and relaxing hammocks that will be the ideal company for the summer midday. In a 10.000 square metre space covered with palm and olive trees, a bohemian area called â€œHippie 2019â€? connects the impressive sea water pool and the renovated shisha area with the blue waters of the Paraga beach. The owners, Christos Athanasiadis and Dimitris Christoforidis, have created the absolute destination on Mykonos, with 5-star services and an aesthetic that catches the eye. The kitchen, guided by the sustainable philosophy of the Nice n Easy Group, using organic ingredients from Mykonos and
the surrounding islands is inspired by Greek gastronomy. The executive chef, Akis Amiras, promises an unforgettable journey of flavours again this year. The international pastry chef Nikolas Strangas is in charge of the sweet surprises. The raw & sushi bar will also excite you. The successful "Bubbles & Caviar" RNB parties, established as the biggest in the country, promise again this year a lot of excitement and leading artists and DJs. This year SantAnna will be the absolute destination for rejuvenation, with its own outdoor Spa and personal face and body treatments. And for your private moments, the SantAnna islets are the must choice this year as well.
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.memories, opinions & Insights
Letters addressed to the sinful Island of the Winds, memories of extremities, life time experiences, expressions of how the 7 sins are applied in the island's essence, unique style and the inner dynamic of a place with the ability to mark the hearts.
— Τ ΕΧ Τ S B Y M C ' S GU E S T S
O P I N I O N S
A L L SA I N T S PA G E
breaking Gold PA G E 8 8
the wounded Island PA G E
breaking Gold. I NTE R V IE W: I R A S I N IGALIA
hat was the very first think you thought when you set your foot on Mykonos? I couldn’t wait to get out of the plane and search for a location to have the best background to shoot my emblematic picture (black and breaking lines of gold). I knew it would be hard as the island is so beautiful and every spots are stunning. —Is Mykonos a source of inspiration for you? Yes of course. What a pleasure to spend time in beautiful places like Mykonos! It fed my heart with joy. The colors are beautiful. Blue-white contrasts, flowers, hills, rocks - its nature is amazing too. People are also very peaceful and gentle. I mean, you can only feel good in Mykonos. —Among the 7 sins which one would ideally fit to the island? Gluttony. The food is so delicious everywhere here. I am lucky I exercise everyday so I could enjoy a lot of it. I have sinned! —What is the bigger sin of our days? Egoism leading to over consumption.
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We should find solutions to minimize our impact on the planet and its nature. Unfortunately we keep digging our own grave. States legislations towards environment are not similar from one country to another, none of the countries really wants to make a big step for the planet knowing this would impact badly their economy. We would need to change all together at the same time. Unfortunately I see nationalism rising in some countries in the world which means less communication and collaboration but always more pollution. —Why you came in Greece this time? I came to Greece with Jean Claude Jitrois and his team. Ada Iliopoulou and Méphistophélès productions invited us for the opening of the room Jitrois at St George Lycabettus and our party in Island with Ada Iliopoulou and Chrysanthos Panas. I painted on a beautiful silver dress. By the way, this hotel must have the most beautiful view of Athens. —What inspires your life? I aspire to be happy. To have the best influence I can on a maximum number of people. To work towards an ideal. Paint, shoot pictures, meet people, travel, and see my family happy. —What is the aim of Universal Humanity? The aim of Universal Humanity is
to unite humanity and celebrate its diversity. The people all over the world have to be more united to be able to solve issues threatening humanity and progress. I really believe in evolution. —You have worked with celebrities to accomplish your dream. How was this experience? I meet most of them by coincidence. Let say they accepted to be part of the project. Few really take time to fully understand or have an active participation in it; sometimes I feel bitter seeing they all pretend to care about the world and the people but when you literally put something in front of their eyes promoting humanity like I do, they don’t always get it. In a certain way you said I accomplished my dream in the question. I am still working on my dream. My dream would be to see Gianluca Vacchi, Saltbae, Gigi Hadid or Pharrell repost their picture for instance to help raise awareness about the philosophy behind it which I believe is totally contemporary. Celebrities are people like you and me. Anyway, I’m planting seeds in people’s minds all over the world and I think long term. —How your collaboration with mr Jitrois started? We met by chance in his store in Paris and the next day I was painting on
one of his leather masterpieces, a black dress on which I painted breaking lines of gold- the same way I paint my body. Since then we have been working on different projects together and it is always a pleasure. I can’t wait for the next one. —What did you take from Mykonos to remember it? I brought back beautiful memories with my friends... and a very unique picture.
WHO IS WHO Thomas Iser, born september 1987 in Metz – France, is a self-taught performer, photographer and painter. His project Universal humanity include an impressive number of personalities and artists like Pharrell, Nicole Scherzinger, Bob Sinclar, Gianluca Vacchi, Romero Britto, Alec Monopoly, Mark Seliger, Sara Sampaio, Saltbae, David Lachapelle. He collaborates in 2016 with Jean-Claude Jitrois on two unique dresses. His art is widely inspired by graffiti and is directly related to his personal journey. Thomas Iser came in Athens for an event by Ada Iliopoulou and Méphistophélès productions for thé présentation of the Jitrois room in St George Lycabettus. He performed a live installation with a dress by Jitrois while the famous Greek tenor from NY, Evangelos Giamouris was singing (www. thomasiser.com).
PHOTOS COURTESY OF THOMAS ISER
Through his project Universal Humanity, artist Thomas Iser has collaborated with celebrities like Pharrell, Bob Sinclar, Sara Sampaio, Saltbae and David Lachapelle to name few. He travels around the world and he landed Mykonos where he performed in gold and black.
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Egoism leading to over consumption. We should find solutions to minimize our impact on the planet and its nature.
a question for the Mykonians. B Y J EF F R EY S I GER
— “What did you do in the war, daddy?” is the title line from a 1960s film packed with wellknown actors. The film is a comedy, and back in those days Mykonos had not yet attained anything near its current star status, yet I see a serious meaning in that line keenly on point for what the island now faces: Those confronting today’s threats to their way of life will surely be judged by those left to live with the results of their ancestors’ decisions.
s our world currently shapes up, I’d say the ancestor adulation market is in for a precipitous decline worldwide. But I’m not concerned about everywhere. I’m concerned about here, on this island I call home, at this moment in time. And that is why I wrote THE MYKONOS MOB, the tenth mystery-thriller in my Chief Inspector Andreas Kaldis series. Yes, it’s fiction, but it ranges across the island, touching upon matters not obvious to the casual visitor, but well known to Mykonians who’ve experi-
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happening. I chalk that up to a Cassandra-like curse. Mykonos has undergone an extraordinary metamorphosis during my time on the island, and change on a cosmic level for those who remember its preJackie Kennedy Onassis visit years. Going back further, it’s hard for those not touched by the island’s World War II-induced days of starvation and depression to imagine Mykonos as impoverished as it once was. And that’s what makes its current celebrity and off-the-charts good fortune an understandable joy for all who love the island and its people. And in that lay the conundrum. How much of a good thing is too much? How much candy can you eat before getting ill? How much heavenly sunshine can you enjoy before it kills you? You get the idea.
enced the many changes to their island. It is for them that I wrote this book. I am not a preacher and do not write sermons. Nor is it my place to suggest how others choose to live their lives. Having spent thirty-five funfilled years on Mykonos, I’d be the proverbial stone-thrower living in a glass house should I attempt any of that. My role as a writer is simple: entertain my readers. Yes, I delve into the seamier aspects of life, but that’s what a mystery-thriller calls for. Nor can I take responsibility for how much of what I write later ends up actually
It seems impossible that in little more than a single generation the island achieved worldwide renown as a 24/7 summer-playground for international celebrities, the super-rich, and holidaymakers from around the globe wishing to be in on the glitz of it all, transforming long-impoverished Mykonians into among the wealthiest per capita people in Greece. But, like everything, it came at a price. Much of the island’s traditional agrarian and seafaring ways were sacrificed to cater to the holidaymakers. Its dozens of breathtaking beaches now boast world-class clubs and restaurants, many designed to keep sun worshipers and partiers onsite and consuming from morning until well
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modate their island’s new reality? It is a question for each Mykonian to honestly answer and act upon to the full extent of his or her own beliefs. That’s not my passing the buck on offering an answer to the Ultimate Question; it’s stating a respectful reality. I am not properly qualified to offer an opinion on how today’s Mykonians should shape their island’s future. that same soil. Off-islanders, drawn to Mykonos by its seeming immunity to the rest of Greece’s dire financial circumstances, have invested heavily in catering to the whims, wants, and fantasies of holiday-makers willing to pay whatever it takes to be part of the island’s anything goes tourist season experience. Let’s face it folks, the world realizes Mykonos is a tourist goldmine. I won’t bother to quote statistics, prices, or champagne sales records, but they continue to greatly inspire the island’s investors, and keeping one’s investors inspired is a very good thing. After all, they’re who’ve kept the sun brightly shining on Mykonos while so much of the rest of Greece has struggled against the darkness. beyond the witching hour. Locals who’d run traditional businesses out of buildings in town that had been in their families for generations realized they’d make far more by turning their shops into bars, or renting their spaces to national and international fashion brands. Outside of town, farmers found themselves making more from the sale of a parcel of land than they could ever hope to make in a lifetime farming
I bet you think the next sentence is going to begin with something like, “On the other hand…”. Wrong. I’m not a naysayer, and though a true downturn in the tourist industry is always a risk, I see a different one confronting Mykonos’ future. To wit: How far away from their island’s cultural and societal roots are Mykonians willing to stray to accom-
After all, it is their descendants who shall judge them on how they chose to act—or not.
WHO IS WHO Jeffrey Siger is an American living on the island of Mykonos. A former Wall Street lawyer, he gave up his career as a name partner in his own New York City law firm to write international best-selling and award recognized mystery thrillers (Murder in Mykonos, Mykonos After Midnight, Assassins of Athens, and the newly released Mykonos Mob, among others) that tell more than just a fast-paced story. They are aimed at exploring serious societal issues confronting modern day Greece in a tell-it-like-it-is style while touching upon the country's ancient roots. The New York Journal of Books wrote, “Siger is one of those rare writers whose finger is always on the pulse of modern day upheavals. He is never afraid to tackle and expose uncomfortable subjects-subjects most writers avoid... a master story teller.” Jeffrey also served as Chair of the National Board of Bouchercon, America’s largest mystery convention, and as Adjunct Professor of English at Washington & Jefferson College, teaching mystery writing.
I am not a preacher and do not write sermons. Nor is it my place to suggest how others choose to live their lives. Having spent thirty-five fun-filled years on Mykonos, I’d be the proverbial stonethrower living in a glass house should I attempt any of that.
I NTE R V IE W: I R A S I N IGALIA
— With her new project Personal Mythology, Della Rounick takes on absence and unfolds the empty embraces of her life.
ow did your new work come about? Exactly as I describe it in the Press Kit. When I am at school, in America, we work with nude models. The same applies here, in the sculpture class at the school of the Municipality of Agia Paraskevi, we also work with nude models. Looking at the nude model sitting for 20minute periods or longer, holding a pose that we want, often tiring and painful, I have always thought about the psychological state of the girl. And I saw myself in many of them. And this is where the project got its name: “The unbearable void of absence”. Besides, this is what my life was. —What role does absence play in your life? Absence is an empty embrace. Absence has played a big role in me. I have had large voids in my life due to the loss of my partner. Voids that you try to fill with something, yet
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they cannot be filled but through experience alone. And so, observing the poses of these girls, the idea of making a series came to mind. The number seven comes from the fact that I do everything in sevens. So I took a model to photograph. I showed her the poses I wanted, but was disappointed because it was not what I imagined. And I thought, what is to blame? The issue was that the model was a fashion model. Another assignment would have been better for her, while what I wanted were feelings. I wanted the work to speak, the girl. In discussing this issue, a friend told me: “I know a girl who is
a dancer and an acrobat”. I thought she would be perfect. Of course, I had brought ready-made armatures from America made of soft aluminium to measure the arms and legs, according to the photo. I would set up the armature with the help of the teacher, it was very easy to record the correct measurements and then I would move on to the clay as usual, and of course my teacher would help me put the finishing touches. This is how the series was created, which created a lot of emotional upheaval in me. Because in every pose I saw a period of my life. When it was finished, the woman was ultimately based on me. And I created her to be alone. I call her Penelope because I always thought I was something like Penelope, only that I was also Odysseus, having undertaken his journey. I created her to be complete, as I am now, and I have formed her hands to show the yin and yang, the female and male, the positive and the negative. Even so, something did not click along the way. I thought to myself, I cannot have her alone, because I am not like that. I am a woman who is missing an embrace. And thus was born the idea to create a man in the final piece, who would be Odysseus. And so I found another model, a very good male model here in Mykonos, on a beach. This is how a proper couple was created, as I would like
it to be, Penelope and Odysseus together; nevertheless she also has the male element hidden within her, and I liked that. I named the male “Errant Lover”. Next, I placed the couples in a series to give the series its real name, which stems from the journey I followed for this project: “Personal Mythology”. —If you could live again, would you live this life? When you have lived a large part of life, you know what has led to what. You can play the film in reverse. You think, if I had taken a different path at that particular crossroads instead of this one, what would have happened? I also mention this in my book; you come to a point where you regret, or consider what “I would have done”. But this hypothetical “if” can never tell you what would have happened, if what actually happened had never come to pass. It is an important realization. Things are well done as they occurred. —Which sin does Mykonos embody? Definitely lust. Of course, in Mykonos lust becomes energy and that is what brings Mykonos to where it is. Because lust is a type of sex, insatiable and constant. But it is also very creative; and thus is not a sin. Here, we see the opposite. It is the font where many sins are washed away. Everything is forgotten and yet everything remains. —What is the greatest sin you have
PHOTOS STUDIO KOTSIREAS
some naked Myths.
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In Mykonos lust becomes energy and that is what brings Mykonos to where it is.
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committed in your life? Oh, many… but there are sins that I never commit, such as lying, hiding or twisting something. I do not like stealing. I am not greedy, but sometime I may have been arrogant, when I was beautiful and young. In some phases of my life I may have been hypersexual, but I also experienced big lulls. I have certainly committed many minor sins, but not of the type that appear before you and torment you. —How would you describe Mykonos today? I feel sorry for those who did not experience the island as I did. I would come here every year, and see it bit by bit. I swallowed it, got used to it. There are many things I used to do that I cannot anymore; for instance, I no longer go down to town in July or August. Nor do I go to the busy beaches – not only because I am older and my body is not what it used to be, but also
because I do not appreciate being overcrowded. The dignity of the sea, the beach, the daily simple dignity, no longer exists. We have slightly strayed. In the past, you would go down to town, without making arrangements in advance, and you knew where to find your friends; you would decide where to go swimming, where to go eat. It was like an open club, a veghera. This no longer exists. But the waters of Mykonos have never been unclean. They are always crystal clear, the air, Delos. And the inspiration. If I had not come to Mykonos, I would never have become a sculptress. —What is the antidote to deterioration? Experience. Beauty is a chapter that fades, vanishes. You know what is strange about life? When you grow older, the fact that you cannot go out every night does not bother you. It gives you pleasure to do what you enjoy at that moment. Everything is
wisely composed. Experience is a great thing and becomes very useful when it is shared. Of course, everyone wants their own experience, but you can be a short cut to knowledge for many, just by sharing simple things.
WHO IS WHO Della Rounick was born in Veria, Greece. She spent time in France studying psychology, literature and French philosophy and then traveled in South Africa starting a model career all around the world. In 1993 and for four years, she was the CEO of her husband’s fashion company while she was also made her own designs as well as paintings. After September 11, Della moved to her motherland and built a house on Mykonos with her studio. Since 2004 she spends there most of her summer months, where she writes and does her arts. Her second sculpture exhibition "Personal Mythology" is taking place on Mykonos this summer.
51 Matogianni Str., 84 600 Mykonos • tel. +30 22890 25506 • www.yannisxydakis.com
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the God of Vanity. B Y M A R T I N M U GN OL O
There are seven mortal sins. But are they mortal because they are deadly, or because they belong to us, the mortals? If they belong to us and are ours, we are far from escaping from them.
ow, only we mortals can sin, or can objects and places have their own? We know that there were sinful cities like Sodom and Gomorrah. Can an island like Mykonos have any sin? Let's review: gluttony, envy, pride, laziness, lust, anger and greed. Is the island of Mykonos Greedy? Not at all. Its beauty is generous. Its four winds can ward-off any spell. (And here there is enough wind for any spell imaginable). Does the island arouse excessive Anger? Definitely not. There are other places on the planet with that telluric force that incite us to fight and combat, to go to bitter war towards one another. The island of the winds exalts Laziness in us? Definitely not. Perhaps because of the fabulous nightlife, the variety of beaches or the various places of entertainment that prevent you from being lazy. It is a place that relaxes, but does not commit the sin of vagrancy.
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Does it awaken poisonous Envy? No. Mykonos does not envy anything or anyone. And much less another place. Of course, it is highly probable that it makes other places jealous. Can you surrender almost lewdly to Gluttony here? Of course! Dionysus, the god of wine, ecstasy and ritual madness can seduce you with his excesses. Gluttony is a sin that belongs to abundance; and refers not only to the appetites of the stomach and palate, but also to alcohol and any other irrational consumption. Here you can find banquets, feasts, even gastronomic orgies. But I would not dare to say it is THE sin of the island. What can we say about Lust? The same Dionysus with his Mériades (companions in his orgies) can transport you to a world of debauchery. Beautiful bodies from all over the globe converge to this island, stunned by the charm of the sirens and the bacchanal rhythm of the music. Yes, it could be its mortal sin.
Finally: Pride, the mother of all sins. Well, we should not confuse pride with vanity, the latter can lead us licentiously to the first. I believe that Vanity is the sin of the island. And Mykonos’ vanity is tremendous. But unlike Narcissus who is suffocated by his exaggerated petulance of looking at himself in the reflection of the water, I think that this island’s vanity inspires. It is poetry for those who know how to taste it. Obviously, Mykonos is feminine. She is beautiful. And She is aware of Her beauty. She loves compliments. She almost requires constant flattery. Mykonos is like a jewel, where the moon applies a silver layer on its emerald sea.
WHO IS WHO Martin Mugnolo was born in Argentina. He studied Literature and Communication in the University Blas Pascal. A multitasking person he is artist, traveller, photographer, designer, writer, creative advertiser, among others. He exhibited his works in Mykonos, Marbella, Malaga, Miami, New York and Barcelona where he lives. Mykonos Surreal consists a collection of paintings influenced by the Surrealistic Movement showcasing the island in a mostly idiosyncratic way.
Does the island arouse excessive Anger? Definitely not. There are other places on the planet with that telluric force that incite us to fight and combat.
PHOTOS COURTESY OF MARTIN MUGNOLO
14 Mitropoleos Str. | Mykonos Town | T.: (+30) 22890 77949 | E: email@example.com karat-mykonos | Karatmykonos
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the wounded Island. B Y GI A N N I S GA LAT I S
— Giannis Galatis, a designer, artist, host, but primarily a Mykonian, writes about the greed that wounds Mykonos.
f I had to choose one of the seven sins that destroyed my island, it would be greed… I’m the creator of the legendary bar 7 Sins, that all the celebrities of the 60s, 70s, 80s and 90s visited. It was a clever, original name for a bar. I forgot those sins and I’ve brought them back to the forefront, so that I can remind others that they exist and then they can forget them too. I was loved by the public for my smile, my talent and my famous Galatis hospitality and I enjoy that. I have always respected the sacred land of my ancestors and I’m angry when it’s wounded by the huge hotels, the thousands of cars and the ostentatious villas of the nouveau riche. Unfortunately, we’ve become unmoored, lost the sense of measure. Gone are the Greek signs on the shops, gone are many architectural masterpieces. The white island fell victim to greed! I continue to function with my own dreams and create based on them. I’ll always remember Boni’s small fishing
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boat that delivered my first small car, so that I could visit the beaches and capes that I had bought to save them from the development storm. It’s never too late to stop the evil, before we are completely lost. Enough already! The island was transformed from a simple island to a huge tourist state through our rapacity. Rise Apollo, my god and save my island! P.S.: I’ll always remember Belonia, the postman, that my mother entrusted me to him, to bring me to our island. The small dovecot that I built to live in, because our big house was in ruins.
The small, rotting boat, together with the pelican, the seagull, the sea turtle.
WHO IS WHO A self-taught painter, decorator, clothes and jewellery designer, author and amateur singer, Giannis Galatis is a multitalented person who lived and was identified with Mykonos like no other. Most, if not all, of the celebrities who set foot on Mykonos passed from his house on the island. He has presented 111 fashion collections and many specially designed dresses for some of the most significant personalities of the whole world.
The white island fell victim to greed! I continue to function with my own dreams and create based on them.
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the pretty boy who just can’t stop Eating. B Y M A R I N A V R A N OP OU LOU / O W NER AND DIRECTO R OF DI O HORI A GAL L ERY
— When I was just a baby nobody really looked at me or paid any attention to me. It was quite and peaceful. I was the son of the king of Delos so everybody talked about my father, as he was the most sacred island of ancient Greece.
hile I became a teenager in the late 1940’s, people starting looking at me especially people from the capital. The Athenian elite comprised of bourgeois intellectuals, artists, writers, architects, and politicians seemed captivated by my unique natural beauties and were the first to spread the fame. Artists and architects came here for my unique body, for which Le Corbusier once said “if you haven’t seen the houses in Mykonos, you can’t pretend to be an architect” and also, “whatever architecture had to say, it is said here”. Poets and painters came to praise my subliminal light, Seferis, Elytis, Moralis to mention only a few. Haute couture designers came to find inspiration from the surroundings and to admire the famous local textiles. Important personalities, Greek and foreigners, bohèmes and free spirits, were initiated into the daily life, which fell in love with the authentic Cycladic landscape and the simplicity of the inhabitants. By the late ‘50s and early ‘60s as everybody seemed to like me, I decided to exchange the favor, be open to all and ac-
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cept the flattery. So I welcomed everyone (lords, dukes, princes and tycoons, billionaires, movie stars and other celebrities) spend time with different kind of people and life got busy. Good busy - I was celebrating daily! Actually, life was so good and I could not get enough of it. Unfortunately, the ‘80s and ‘90s were defined from the mass tourism and I could not stop eating so things started to change. My rural landscape was distorted and I forgot my roots and became a cosmopolitan fellow. Someone with authority should have stopped me for my own good. Gluttony, one of the seven deadly sins, became my middle name and directly give birth to other immoralities too. Today there is a love/hate attitude towards me. Some are still very attracted to me but others feel repulsion. I feel lost. Some of my beaches still have golden sand and all have turquoise waters, my body is still stunning with white washed houses, and of course, I have a sublime piercing light. On the other hand, my gluttony has led to over-development consequences that are largely reflected on the overcrowded beaches with the squeezed sunbeds, the unbearable traffic, the ridiculously priced restaurants and bars, the vandalisation of the authentic landscape by either the visitors or/and the greedy local entrepreneurs. Can anybody help me? I do not like my self but I just cannot stop eating. Maybe I should go back to my dad (Delos) for advice, have a diet or at least visit Dio Horia Art Gallery for some inspiration.
WHO IS WHO Marina Vranopoulou is an art historian and curator. She founded Dio Horia Cultural Platform in 2015 with the mission to present emerging artists and organize a residency program on the island of Mykonos for international artists. Since 2007 she is a permanent collaborator of DESTE Foundation and the director of the foundation’s exhibitions at its experimental Slaughterhouse space in Hydra. Her research interests focus on the contemporary art collector and how collecting affects the work of art at the stage of its creation.
Gluttony, became my middle name and directly give birth to other immoralities too.
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all Saints. B Y F R A GI S KOS M ON OGIOS
I have read various evaluations of the reasons the Mykonians have been prospering for decades, each one striking a balance between success story and lucky break.
he closest encounter I have ever had with the island is my father, who has resolved my dilemma through his personal stories about the adaptability that characterizes all Mykonians, as well as the necessity to create something with what the island offered them. Born in the 1930’s, he lived during a period we would today call creative cuisine, or life hacks; the need for substitution of what was missing pervaded. There is nothing harsher than survival at a young age especially since, when isolated from the rest of the country in times of war, you carry the additional burden of offering to others in need from your own resources. There were people who handed their neighbours a handful of flour, and they would accept without self-interest. Instead they would think about how to return the favour in the form of personal work. Through his stories I understood that, on an island without trees, in order to build a roof with a large central beam or cook in the wood oven you would have to pray for a miracle. When there was no fuel to light the house, you would melt animal fat and pour it into the “oil” lamp. When there was no
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ice, you would eat fish fresh from the fisherman’s nets, who would bring his catch to sell in the square. When you did not have anything to offer tourists, you would cut the last flower in the yard and offer it to passersby, as his Mother used to do. When you needed to impose a special diet on a young child, you would uproot and collect wild greens from the earth and trick the child into eating them. In the same way, you would uproot the rocks or break them into smaller pieces in order to build your house. The Mykonians had also agreed that the flies would leave on 26 October, and thus the pig slaughters would begin. The summer gave way to mostra – rusk with spicy kopanisti cheese – and some grapes or watermelon. Families gathered after the Monastery in Ano Mera and ate together well into the hours of the afternoon, after which time they went to milk their animals. The feasts that took place were famed throughout the island, especially on Sundays when the instruments (toubaki and tsabouna) could be heard for miles. The restaurant of his father, ship cook Fragiskos Monogios, opened in 1937 while a few years before, he had rented out the refectory of the Monastery of Panagia Tourliani to serve coffee and meze. For a time he had worked as a “fryer” in a shack at Neorion shipyard in Syros. Before Syros, he worked as a cook on the Averof Battleship, where he learned to estimate the correct rations for the hundreds of portions that
needed to be served at the same time. With his brother he set up a coffee shop in Sepolia called “8” where the first Mykonians who moved to Athens would hang out. It is through stories such as these that I have come to understand the particular characteristic of the people who experienced all these changes on their island. It is none other than their openness and receptiveness to something different. All the differences that separated the educated European, who had travelled kilometres to visit Delos, with the barefoot fisherman he encountered as he arrived on Mykonos would simply disappear once he was offered a chair and a glass of wine. No matter the differences between their musical tastes and those of the “Yé-yé” boys and girls who started coming to the island, everyone still enjoyed the same feasts. No matter the differences in faith, the visitors were still enchanted by the churches and chapels that peppered the island. As different as the shorts and miniskirts worn by the visitors were, they were still stocked in the local shops alongside traditional weaves, creating beautiful contrasts with the dresses worn by locals. In addition to the windmills, the monastery, the pelican and the beaches, the feasts, a major attraction of the island are its people, with their good manners, hospitality and discretion. They were, are and will always be the merrymakers of the Cyclades. Come join them.
Mykonians have agreed to an unwritten rule; that not only would they survive, but also have a good time. WHO IS WHO Fragiskos Monogios is a Mykonian Athenian. He is Chief Commercial Officer of Adweb Network. He started his career in the media industry in 1994. He has occasionally participated in various associations such as the IAB Hellas and ACEO a Nonprofit Organization Management Industry and has presented innovative ideas in several conferences, in addition to having received various industry awards. In the course of his twenty year career, he spent eleven years working for Metro International, first as Commercial Director, then as General Manager and finally as CEO. The last five years was the Deputy CEO and CCO at 24MEDIA.
why does my heart feel so Bad ? B Y M I CH A EL S K A F I DAS
— Before they worshipped the mighty euro, Mykonians believed in a higher God and to prove it they built more than a thousand churches. They made them with their own capable hands, stone by stone, often in roadless heights only birds and sheep knew.
priest very seldom dared the long walk and the climbing for the blessings. And so the builders learned to pray and consecrate their churches on their own. The all-pervading God most of these toilers prayed to was the sea. They didn’t say it bluntly, but like in most coastal ancient lands, one grew with the notion of nature as true religion. The men went out to sea to fish, they came back to feed their families and off they went again. The ancients had Poseidon, the Byzantines revered St. Nicholas --both sea rulers subject to an almighty authority-- and the descendants reasoned that nothing higher ever ruled the sea other than the power of the wind and the unpredictability of weather. And that was as rational an image of destiny as an old salt man could possibly imagine: ever flowing, elusive, selfdetermined, timeless, lonely, irrevers-
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ible, unguided. The toilers of Mykonos had hardly ever touched a book. Up until the early postwar years, school was a rarity on the impoverished island; knowledge was attained mainly through work, experience and common sense. Mykonians did not have to read Dante or Tomas Aquinas, the Christian Bible or even the Jewish Talmud to know why people go to hell! Intuitively they recognized Reason as the ultimate path to divinity and moderation the pilot of the ship of life. Abuse reason, ignore control and you are victim of your own passions. In the pagan days of Homer, who allegedly died not too far from Mykonos, people did not have a word for sin. Instead they spoke of hubris, an act of excessive arrogance and insolence condemned and punished by the gods. By the time of Aquinas, in the 1200s, the idea of sinfulness had squeezed into a concrete Christian list of God’s least favorite things, though the number did not remain consistent. Aquinas listed 7 deadly sins, but a few decades later the poet Dante depicted Inferno as a spiral structure involving 9 awe-inspiring circles of hell. Look in the mirror and you’ll know which circle you are destined for. When they were building churches, Mykonians were undoubtedly the poorest islanders of the Aegean, and as the cynical wisdom goes, the poor can afford innocence as they have nothing much to lose. But then all of a sudden Onassis’s yacht moored to the dock of Mykonos
in the 1950s and the destiny of the island took a turn. As a local friend was bantering the other day, “all of these small churches were meant to be exorcisms of demons that threatened the island for so long and in a way they fulfilled their purpose. Poverty is gone.” Hotels and bars boomed like the temples of the new religion; tourism. The tiny, studiosize forgotten chapels, originally meant to be pledges of solitude and devotion, were discovered by the tourists and the rest is history gone mad in the vortex of the virtual inferno known as Instagram, where Mykonian churches and windmills compete with the world’s cutest cats and dogs. Try reckoning the deadly sins from 1 to 7 in places like Super Paradise today and people will ask for more – the ladder of wrongdoing leads straight to a fathomless pit that in today’s Mykonos is an ever-growing cesspool receiving the waste of one thousand plus hotels, one million plus summer visitors. Vice runs in the genes of Mykonos whose ancestry precedes the fabled descent of Adam and Eve. If the neighboring golden spot of Delos was renowned for its non-negotiable rules and regulations, Mykonos, as its adaptable opposite, thrived on its imperfections. That’s why they all came here –the Persians, the pirates, Onassis and the tourists--, that’s why we all came here, to live imperfectly. In Mykonos, it never really mattered whether the sins were yours or mine, seven or nine, or as many as the stars. People come here to count euros, not sins; peo-
ple pay to look at the starry night sky and drink champagne. Guilt may had never been part of the Mykonos wordlist, but guilty pleasures certainly made it to its price list. Last summer, an astounded American friend who was having a casual après la plage dinner at Nammos in Psarou beach, texted me a few photos of the champagne list, blinded as he was by the multiple-zero effect: Armand de Brignac Brut Gold 60.000€ Armand de Brignac Rose 72.000€ Armand de Brignac Brut Gold 120.000€ “What’s going on???!!!!!!” He texted me back when I wrote him I had seen it before. “Am I in fuckin Oz land?” “You are, have some Armand Rose and enjoy, don’t be stingy! Spend till you trend!” “Who spends this money dude?” “The world’s shrewdest tax evaders, the happiest crooks and some immodest but legit very wealthy people that dock their boats here.” “That is so cool!” For the newcomers it may come as a sign of coolness, the idea that in this formerly bohemian paradise, spending is hotter than sex and euro the dildo currency of the moment. When another American friend offered to treat me to dinner the other night and put two hundreddollar bills on the waiter’s book server wallet for a bill of 140E, the restaurant owner who knew me came back to tell me politely, offended as he seemed, “he can’t pay with dollars here. We are not
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In Mykonos lust becomes energy and that is what brings Mykonos to where it is.
in Mexico!” We are not in Greece either where it takes about a month for a moderately successful executive to make what a dinner for four costs at places like Scorpios or Nammos. Not Mexico and not Greece, and that is the limbo of this ever expanding Neverland. I remember, while Greece was burning in the summer of 2015, amidst the greatest financial crisis of its modern history, on the seafront of Mykonos, people cheered: that was the perfect summer for the Mykonian cash registers, a recordbreaking season with more American, European and Asian visitors than ever and all-time high real estate prices. Rainbow silky colored stripes waved all over the island. The night of June 27, while the rest of Greece was afire with the newly imposed capital controls and uncertainty about the upcoming infamous referendum, the town of Mykonos glittered
under a spectacle of fireworks. It was Saturday night, and the main news celebrated on the island by locals and visitors alike was that day’s U.S. Supreme Court decision in favor of gay marriage for all fifty states. “What crisis?” A local businessman had told me for a story I was writing for the American Huffington Post. “Mykonos is not exactly Greek anymore, so why worry? Our summer population is ninety-five percent nonGreek. We are producing our own wealth. Our dream is more American than European. If Mykonos ever gained independence from Greece it would be one of the richest microstates on the globe. In a few decades time it might as well separate from Greece to become the wealthiest Mediterranean microstate after Monaco and the Vatican.” Bingo! As the Cinderella of the Greek Isles, Mykonos went from a poor and
most forgotten rock to the Manhattan of the Aegean, one the most popular destinations on the globe, a stronghold of opportunity and affluence in a bankrupt country, and the most enticing brand-vacationland of the Mediterranean. Today’s Mykonos glitters from afar like a trillion-dollar investment outshining archrivals Ibiza, Sardinia and Saint Tropez. I’ve spent my last thirtyfive summers there, and it still astounds me: how did this barren island manage to reach the stars? There are more than 5,000 Greek islands, and Mykonos is not even one of the top 30 in terms of size and population. Why Mykonos? Because nowhere else in third millennium Greece do you trend as much when you spend, so much. Period. To make it worth it, the locals rented out and sold out their lands and homes and souls to the masters of enticement who arrived along with architects and interior designers and you name it to set up such a spectacle of summer phantasmagoria. Even our medieval poet, Dante, would have actually loved to shop and stop for a glass of Armand de Brignac Brut Gold at Nammos. There, in the jingle of wealth, wind and fashion he would conceive a cheerier vision of hell. And I would be his new guide to the depths of excess. We would pass the circles of limbo and lust and get straight to the bottom, to the vast rings of Gluttony, Greed and Fraud because that’s where the story of the new Mykonos began, in the 1990s when the BoBos touched down at the
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The sons and daughters of those local toilers who once built churches in the wilderness, don’t seem to have learned from the BoBos’ downfall.
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heliport, remember? In one of favorite books from the golden years BoBos in Paradise, the American commentator David Brooks had explained how the bourgeois and the bohemians — the two formerly distinct social classes of the countered-cultural bohemian beach revolutionaries and middle-class capitalists — had merged and formed the BoBos, the new wannabe breed of the 1990s. Brooks’ famous neologism would remain inconclusive for our purposes without counting and remembering the Greek BoBos, the bulimic nouveaux riches who came to Mykonos from Athens and the provinces to spend like Onassis and unwittingly changed the island more than Onassis or the gays ever did. They came with charted helicopters and Louis Vuitton rubber dinghies, went snorkeling wearing Gucci flippers, dined with diamonds at trendy restaurants where Versace appeared fresher than fish, watered their German Shepherds with Evian, bought acres upon acres of stony land and claimed beach territory even in the gay stronghold of Super Paradise where a new clash of civilizations took place. The gays disliked them, and the Bobos disliked them back. As I put it in an article I’ve written for an American paper, that’s how Mykonos in the 1990s, a time of global economic boom, became the West Egg of Eurogreece, a playground of the nouveau riche Athenian masters of the universe who came to the Manhattan of the Aegean to build Gatsby-esque mansions and to reenact a Greek version of The Bonfire of the Vanities. As Tom Wolfe might put it: The excess! The insolence! The bloody long cigars! The manicured Filipino maids! If the rich are different than you and I, as Nick Carraway famously pondered in The Great Gatsby, this breed of wannabe Athenian master shouted his wealth louder than the wind. I was there in the opulent summers when the Greek BoBo was king of Mykonos. He became my best friend; he invited me over to his yacht and villa, he
opened his heart and his home to me, and I responded with Nick Caraway’s eagerness and curiosity to Gatsby’s megalomania, generosity and infinite charm. Together we consumed Mykonian cheese and Moet, got dazzled by the fireworks in his parties, danced to Madonna and the bouzouki, and played Moby’s balmiest song again and again, Why Does My Heart Feel So Bad? No one seemed to know or care back then about the word the ancients had for immodesty, hubris. The Mykonian expression of immodest riches accelerated so fast that when it derailed, entire fortunes had gone with the wind. The Gilded Age of Mykonos came to an end about ten years ago when the Greek Gatsbies went down in their own pool of debt, vanity and deception. Their villas were bought or rented by Arabs and Americans or taken by the banks, their boats gone, hotels and restaurants overbooked without them. I confess, now that they’re gone –into bankruptcy, or to the underworld of cheaper islands –, in a strange way, I miss them. But Mykonos has forgotten all about them, their big partiers and confiscated mansions. What remains is the elusive memory of the fireworks and, of course, the damned knowledge that wealth, power and happiness never last too long. The sons and daughters of those local toilers who once built churches in the wilderness, don’t seem to have learned from the BoBos’ downfall. They became richer and notoriously rapacious because of them and now they are selling out to whomever can afford the top champagne at Nammos, or to those who cannot afford it but come anyway to witness the show of those who can. And that brings us to the last circle of hell the poet has drawn, treachery. In this circle the more than one thousand small churches the toilers built become available on Airbnb, the sea sometimes looks a bit brownish, because of a sewer pipe that broke down and flowed straight into the beach, like it did the other day in the Hong Kong of
Mykonos formerly known as Plati Yialos, the meadows and fields are plowed by bulldozers 24/7. The pessimists predict that this wicked island one day will burn down to the ground like Pompeii. But they are wrong and that’s why I am still here. You see, no one ever shall set fire to the sea. The rock that this island is made of is as flame-resistant, as the sea that moistens it. The worst that can happen is the waters of the sea come flooding in, until everything that whirled and vanished into the maelstrom returns and recurs. That is the catch and ultimate punishment in Dante’s Inferno; the fallen are doomed to repeating and reliving their vices for eternity. If I can take it, I’ll be here for eternity, infinitely swinging and swimming, never ever ceasing to wonder, why does my heart feel so bad?
WHO IS WHO Michael Skafidas is a writer and professor of comparative literature at the City University of New York. He writes for the US edition of the Huffington Post and the Los Angeles Times Syndicate. His features have also appeared in most major European newspapers and magazines. He lives in New York and in Mykonos.
Fashion capsule Dimitris Dassios has dropped anchor on the Island of the Winds with his new boutique. “If fashion wants to be seen as a creation, it must have a memory”. That’s how the designer Dimitris Dassios characterises his work and inspiration. It’s not just the creation of fashion, but a means of expression and presentation of tradition from various parts of the world. This is evident in his new summer 2019 collection. Authentic elements, genuine technique and luxury cloth and weaves, create pieces that refer to a history of place, natural beauty and style. Having innate talent in art and its forms, he brings it to his designs, creating dresses, coats, blouses, trousers, denim coats, bags, accessories, jewellery and leather goods that are Greek all the way through. His collection “journeys” to various places in the world, returning the beauty that it received as inspiration. One such place is his brand new boutique in Mykonos. A place where fashion and art are the stars. Athens Showroom: 35 Vasilissis Sofias Avenue, +30 210 95 73 582 Mykonos Boutique 30 Kalogera Street, +30 22890 29056 www.dassios.com
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/ S U P E R B I A / Mykonos is the Aegean’s Big Apple. Its small dimension becomes a veil which, when pulled away, reveals a hidden El Dorado. An extra large dreamland in which the most serious of deadly sins becomes a simple misdemeanor. There is no room for self-flagellation on Mykonos. It is consciously arrogant. It answers only to its crazed wind. And it’s right. Think only of its beaches: how did so many fit on such a small island? Remember the madness and the solitary Mykonians who turned their island into a touristic miracle. Count those who lent her—without asking something in return—the elusive sparkle of vanity.
/ P R I D E / S U P E R B I A /
.keeping up with challenging people on a challenging island
Designers, businessmen and businesswomen, artists; in one word, pride-tellers.
— ΤΕΧΤS BY VIVI VO UR TSA / PH OT OG R A PH S B Y JOH N D IM OT S IS
A L GIGA —
The ambassador The owner of the AL GIGA MYKONOS boutique is betting on Greek design and the international essence of Mykonos —What do you think are the strong points of Greek designers? Greek designers are inspired by the sea, the sky, the country’s colours, history and culture. They have a high sense of beauty and that’s what we try to promote here. —Do you feel that you’re an ambassador for Greek design? In some ways, yes. I’ve tried hard to make Greeks become known in the fashion world using my acquaintances and contacts, so they can show their significant work and their amazing talents. I’ve helped in getting them recognised and changing the opinion about Greek designs. We keep going, searching constantly for new talents. —How has the public changed in recent years? It’s become more demanding, but at the same time we’ve offered higher quality services. All of Mykonos is a hot spot for shopping. There are people coming from Switzerland for two days only to shop. Greeks are creative, they have quality and talent. But equally important is the space where they will be showcased. Our place is like a gallery where artists exhibit. We don’t just exhibit, we inform the international public about the designers' career. C O N TIN U ED O N PAGE 2 78 SUMMER 2019 | 113
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C A R O LY N HEIM —
Energy above all As an Architect and Designer, Carolyn Heim believes in the island’s natural beauty by saying that “Mykonos Rocks you”. —What’s your first care every morning? The early morning is my favorite part of the day. First I enjoy the magic view of Delos, then I cherish that quiet and peaceful moment and I start being positively productive. —Going back in time, what would you like to have been changed or preserved on the island? Mykonos is a Greek island and I wanted to remain such! Foreigners are always welcome but the Greeks will always be King. And I consider myself as such because there was not even one summer since I was born that I missed. I am a true islander! I want to fight for its natural beauty and integrity. Clean and healthy and culturally preserved! —What is the philosophy behind the "Rock" element of your work? Mykonos Island is not only known for his Cycladic architecture by its minimal white style but mostly for her main characteristic based on his nature. The granites stones shaped into an arid aspect reflect that strong energy of the island. It’s says in the mythology that the giants, specially the tall Cyclops through huge rocks on the islands that’s why Mykonos and Delos have beautiful rocks. We are talking about a unique element which I defined in my work as an essential source of inspiration for my conception design. Rock is energy, energy is Mykonos! C O N T IN UE D ON PAGE 278
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ALEXIS T Z A KO S —
Multitasking force The surveyor - engineer and coowner of the engineering firm Aegean Landmark, where permanent partner is the traffic engineer Christiana Tzouanou, talks about the best selling brand of Mykonos. What’s the first thing you do in the morning? Put on my running shoes and go for a run. Whatever route I take, easy or hard, it’s something that gives me a unique combination of well-being and calmness for the rest of the day. Going back in time, what would you like to have been changed or preserved on the island? For those of us who live in Mykonos all year round, the first thing that comes to mind is Chora. We want Chora to function and live during the winter as well. We remember how different the winters were when it had life and a few restaurants, bars and shops were open. Year after year it is becoming deserted and in recent years there might be a month that there’s not even a kiosk open. What do you expect from the Mayor for the island’s prosperity? That he continues his work to maintain Mykonos in the elite of tourist destinations worldwide every year, while maintaining a friendly environment for the locals and the people who work here. It’s a difficult goal, requiring a combination that apart from the marketing promotion, includes the provision of infrastructure and security for the visitors and the locals. C O N T IN UE D ON PAGE 278
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DI M ITR IS DA S S I O S —
Fashion globetrotter With a multi-cultural collection, the designer & owner of Dassios Mykonos brings his aesthetics to the international public of Mykonos. —What’s the first thing you do in the morning? Have a good breakfast, after I’ve said good morning to my studio. —Going back in time, what would you like to have been changed or preserved on the island? I would like to have been less construction and the aesthetics that I had found when I first came to Mykonos as a teenager had remained the same. —What do you expect from the Mayor for the island’s prosperity? Cleanliness and progress, but not without qualifications. —What is your new collection based on? My new collection is based on the tradition of peoples and trends in art. It meets the needs of the woman who wants to be at the same time elegant, bright and sensual on her vacation. —How much has the public changed in recent years? The Mykonos public is by now international. That means that we are addressing people who travel and know the markets. That means that we have to offer something special, unique that they would have difficulty finding elsewhere and that it represents our country honourably. We should be dynamic in standing next to the big brands with quality and resilience. C O N T IN UE D ON PAGE 278
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51 Matogianni Str., 84 600 Mykonos • tel. +30 22890 25506 • www.yannisxydakis.com
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KITTY J. L A I O S —
Motivated by growth The owner of the Kitty J. Laios real estate agency speaks from the heart about the evergreen island of the Winds, which is “blooming” as a tourist choice but also as an investment. —What’s the first thing you do in the morning? I devote an hour to myself, take a shower, check and reply to email, eat a hearty breakfast consisting of fruits, green tea and a double espresso, with my beloved dog Tara, an amazing Bobtail, which I adore. Then I head for the office and the appointments. —Going back in time, what would you like to have been changed or preserved on the island? From the beginning of the 60s, it was already a given that if you were an international celebrity (businessman, actor, singer etc) you had to spend part of your summer holidays in Mykonos. The Mykonians are the cause of this timeless success. It’s also certain that the Sacred Island of Delos played a significant role in the rapid tourist development of Mykonos, as the whole island is an archaeological treasure. It’s definitely a Greek luxury destination that attracts people with expensive tastes, but it doesn’t mean that it’s only for them. It’s a multi-level place, offering many choices for all incomes. The virgin beaches of Mykonos and the few cars, some natural beauties that are being lost daily, have been replaced by the large tourist influx. C O N T IN UE D ON PAGE 278
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D.S. GOLD J E W E L L E R Y St. Anna, 84600 Mykonos, Greece Tel.: +30 22890 25251, Fax: +30 22890 26882, Mob.: +30 6944 527362, e-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org
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DI M ITR IS ISA R IS & GEORGE G A I TA N O S —
Music for your ears Dimitris Isaris and George Gaitanos, the DuoViolins, are two musicians with polymorphic artistic activities. They perform at Kenhso Psarrou electrifying our nights in the island.
—What fascinates you about Mykonos? The island’s energy and vitality. They’re two of the most important elements that characterise Mykonos. — If the island was music, what kind would it be? It would be dynamic, uplifting but also melodic, like Take me to Infinity, like the music that’s heard on Fridays at Kensho in Psarou… —Which song would you play for Mykonos at a magnificent supper?
Undoubtedly our own “obsession”. No accident… —What’s your repertory at Kensho? Our show at Kensho includes many genres, cinematic, rock, pop, ethnic, dance. Come and find out… —What is the greatest difficulty in synchronising two violins? There’s no difficulty in synchronising the violins. What has particular interest is synchronising the violins with the public’s pulse. That’s where the magic begins…
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L E O N I DA S K A R A NTZA LIS —
Restless mind With quality personal time as his axiom, the owner of Leonis Summer Houses analyses his theorem for hospitality for us. —What’s the first thing you do in the morning? Clean the pool. —Going back in time, what would you like to have been changed or preserved on the island? I would like to have Petros , the original pelican with us, as he was more approachable. The current one is a diva. He doesn’t get out of bed for less than three cruise ships. —What do you expect from the Mayor for the island’s prosperity? I expect him to conquer the bureaucracy so that entrepreneurs can build hotels and beach clubs in the sea. —What’s your philosophy of hospitality based on? My team and I believe that vacation time is sacred for everyone. So when someone honours us by spending this sacred time in Leonis Summer Houses, it’s a given that we will try to offer the best possible experience. —How has the public changed in recent years? Many of the changes in the behaviour of the modern visitor are related to social media. It’s now more important how we record and present every moment than how we actually experience it in reality. —What has resulted from this change? It’s led to a sense of dissatisfaction. C O N T IN UE D ON PAGE 278
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N ATA L I E L E O N TA R A K I —
Land is gold Guided by the international real estate path, Natalie Leontaraki, CEO of Engel & Völkers in Greece, is keeping a steady course in her journey on the land of Mykonos. —Mykonos holds the highest house prices in the Cyclades. What do you attribute this to? Real estate in the Cyclades is a solid capital investment. Mykonos leads in respect to destinations with the greatest yields in real estate investments (up to 8%), compared to other Greek islands and the whole Mediterranean. The areas with the greatest demand are Chora, Tourlos and Aleomandra near Chora of Mykonos. Also the areas near the sea, such as Kalo Livadi, Kalafatis and Ftelia. In 2018, real estate prices reached 12,000 euros per square metre and the prices for villas reached 8.5 million euros. —Has the buying audience of the island become different recently? At this time, Europeans are the main buyers of luxury houses in Mykonos. The island is particularly popular with Germans, Swiss and Austrians. It also attracts investment interest from Israel. The demand from foreign buyers is high. Some buy for private use, while others choose to rent to third parties. House leasing in Mykonos can result in a gross return of 8%. —Regarding real estate concerns, which factor alters the map in your opinion? At this time, real estate in Greece is a smart investment for foreign buyers. C O N T IN UE D ON PAGE 279
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PAV L O S M ICH IOU R IS —
Votre beaute Serving the art of beauty, the coowners of Elysian Beauty Salon, Pavlos & Maria Michiouris and Charalampos Papatsilekas have made a creative expression studio. C
—What’s the first thing you do in the morning? Program the day properly so as to serve the customers well. —What do you expect from the Mayor for the island’s prosperity? To continue his perfect work, as he has planned it for the next five years. —What’s this year’s trend in hair styles? The bob that reaches the top of the shoulders. Also, the balayage is still trending and light curls for the summer. —How has the public changed? The industry’s constant refinement and the customers who are by now well educated in the subject have raised the bar in consumer awareness. —Where has this change led to? In the recognition of the craft and its values. Also, in separating the art from the technique of the craft. —Which factor modifies your sector’s demands in your opinion? Social media posts and internet marketing. —Pride, envy, lust, sloth, gluttony, greed and wrath. Which do you consider our era’s most dangerous sin? Pride. —The most important virtue? Self-knowledge. —Which motto expresses you? Do not judge, or you too will be judged.
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N ICOLAS K Y R I A KOP OU L O S —
The constant explorer The owner of the Don Blue Yachting company explores his options and the wishes of the island’s visitors. —What’s the first thing you do in the morning? I try to use my time to do meaningful things, both professionally and personally. —Going back in time, what would you like to have been changed or preserved on the island? I don’t think I’m the right person to answer. In general, I think that Mykonos embraced the whole world during very different times. Since then, there’s the constant increase in entrepreneurship and the attempt to manifest new ideas, which is a successful recipe and thus it must continue. —What do you expect from the Mayor for the island’s prosperity? All mayors try to do their best for their municipality. I’m someone who believes in teamwork. So, on that basis, we should all help the work of the current mayor so that we can progress further. —What philosophy are your services based on? Our overarching philosophy and strategy is based on the unique experience, the respect for the customer and the fulfilment of the demands. It’s an attempt to constantly evolve guided by meeting the needs that arise. We believe that in the difficult times that we live in, everyone needs moments to be relaxed, carefree and experience new things. That’s what we strive and fight for constantly. C O N T IN UE D ON PAGE 279
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! f l e Take full are of yours c Dr afaki, M y konos, tel.: +3 0 2 28 9 0 2 3111
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A NGELO PA L KO G I A N N I S —
Estates of Mind Faithful to the core values of real estate and to their relationship with the island, Angelo, Marilydia and Konstantinos Palkogiannis, owners of Mykonos Estates, are great fans of the island. —What is the island’s major comparative advantage? It is no coincidence that Mykonos has been in the centre of international tourist interest since the 1960’s. It was, and still is, a top summer destination, and one that combines it all: natural beauty, gorgeous beaches, crystalline waters, exceptional architecture and aesthetics, intense nightlife, high quality gastronomy and amazing restaurants, 5-star services on all levels, a marvelous Town and hospitable people. The combination of all of the above – that you cannot find in any other place in Greece – is what I consider the island’s greatest advantage and what makes it unique. —Your most important feature? In addition to extensive experience, which is self-evident in the real estate industry as the legal framework in Greece holds many traps, characteristics such as honesty, trust and discretion come at the top of the list here at Mykonos Estates. We are a family business that has managed to convey its values at home into the professional sphere. We are interested in building long-term relationships with our clients, and that is why we are open and honest with them from the very beginning. C O N T IN UE D ON PAGE 279
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A LEX A N DROS SOT I ROPOU LOS —
Quality dreamer As a shareholder of Candia Strom in Mykonos, he promises a restful “trip” to the Mediterranean with a stop on the Island of the Winds, offering the best foundation for the most enjoyable dreams. —What the basis of your product philosophy? The philosophy of the company and its products is based on the new promise of the brand Wake Up In The Mediterranean, encouraging the consumer to “wake up” and live new experiences, to create, to enjoy and to discover. It’s linked firmly to the results of studies that conclude that the secret to good sleep is in the motive that we give ourselves to wake up the next day! —How much has the public changed in recent years? A lot! The public has realised that sleep is precious and so before purchasing a sleep product, such as a mattress, they will do extensive market research. They will visit a shop, inquire, try out, search extensively to choose what really suits their needs. They will want to know about the materials used, their origin, the way they’ve been processed, even the manufacturing techniques and if they’re body friendly. —What has resulted from this change? At Candia specifically, it has led to the search and creation of products with high quality manufacturing techniques and processes done by hand from the beginning to the end of production. C O N T IN UE D ON PAGE 279
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Art and fashion in culture Α new temple of art on Mykonos is an important meeting point
Evripides Art Gallery is located in the historical district of Athens “Kolonaki” in a beautiful neoclassical building since 2015. Proudly, this summer, Evripides Art Gallery will be part of the Mykonos Art Scene in collaboration with the international recognized Greek designer Dassios. Mykonos is leading the charge in cultural out-put, attempting to match its cosmopolitan image with its artistic draw and it constitutes the gate for international cooperations for new artists. After a successful season in Athens, Evripides Art Gallery is now displaying in
their space on Mykonos, on interplay between Art & Fashion, committing to promote leading Greek artists with professionals, art collectors, and other artists to create an ever growing family dedicated to the world of fine art and fashion. Throughout the summer, Evripides Art Gallery is holding Group exhibitions that showcase the best of Greek paintings today. The Evripides Art Gallery exceeds the expectations of visitors and is quickly becom-ing one of the top reference points for the passionate Art Lovers in Mykonos.
Athens: 10 Irakleitou Str. & Skoufa Str., +30 210 3615909 Mykonos: 30 Kalogera Str., +30 22890 290056 evripides-art.gr evripidesart evripidesart
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B Y I R A S I N I GA LI A
â€” An "oasis "of the past initiates you to a way of life that is far away of what you experience on the island; begone but not forgotten. The Zouganeli family hails from Ano Mera. Gradually the father, Yannis bought some land for their needs in the Maou area. Today, the son, Nikos Zouganelis is reviving a Mykonian Chorio, Rizes, with the goal of creating a legacy, showing the other facet of Mykonos which must not be forgotten. The construction of the building complex started to be built room by room in October 2018. Itâ€™s a faithful copy of a chorio (village), an autonomous habitat comprising a group of independent buildings, where the family in times gone by would make
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home is where Heart is. Clockwise from left: Horses are a part of the rural paradigm of Rizes, where you can join the preparation and baking of bread.
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The creation of the owner is the result of dedication to a way of life that seems foreign today.
products for their survival. Rizes has been reconstructed from surviving images and through research. It claims its space discreetly. Made from authentic materials, it revives a different age. For instance, the bamboo screens hold up the ceiling but also decorate it. The only “sour note” is the unavoidably necessary electricity. On the walls, you can see sections where the stone is visible through the whitewash, while in the attic you’ll find wooden beams instead of columns. The windows are ordered and sized based on old village standards, while the architectural structure follows the past in that rooms don’t communicate between themselves and are separated
by doors. The visitor wandering around will go through the living room but also the small kitchen, where the loom stands that used to weave the thread that came straight from the sheep’s wool. The principle of autonomy, characteristic of a different economic and social order, describes a self-sufficient habitat which is influenced historically by the regularities of agricultural production in the Greek territory during the Ottoman rule. So, the architectural setup in the Mykonos house includes a wood burning stove and a small cheese making room, which fulfils a domestic production activity, where what is produced here is also consumed here. The
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The construction of the building complex started to be built in 2018 visitor will also see the barn, where tools and hay were kept. Thereâ€™s also a tsabouna (bagpipe) workshop. The house of Rizes also has a religious icon workshop and a loom. The complex is completed by the external spaces. Thereâ€™s the bostani where seasonal plants are cultivated, the olive grove, the vineyard, the chicken coop and the dovecote. All around are the animals, a crucial part of the setting: horses, goats, donkeys and rabbits. They play their part in reviving for the visitor the traditional farm. Everyone who comes to Rizes is given a personal two hour tour which culminates in the restaurant where traditional appetisers are served. You can choose to participate in cooking lessons or making bread, an activity which starts early in the morning. Whatever you choose, the tour is included. How do visitors respond to Rizes? The older Mykonians are touched, it softens their heart, while the younger respond with joy. Tourists who come to Mykonos for the first time are enthusiastic. Others, the so called repeaters, who recognise the diversity, approach Rizes from an ecological perspective, in contrast to the Mykonians who have traditional associations. In all cases, the creation of mr Zouganelis is the result of dedication to a way of life that seems foreign to the new Mykonos era, but is familiar to those who search for the hidden side of a land that still has a living tradition.
Clockwise from top left: The barn, the tsabouna, animals are everywhere in Rizes, the chapel.
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the fatal Pioneer. BY IRA SINIG A LIA
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Passionate, pioneer, sharp-witted; Aris Constanides was the first Greek architect to study the Villages, the houses, lying on the island. “I must confess that in this anonymous architecture of my country I sought and I think I have found that which I myself would like to accomplish today: a frugality of arrangement, a sensitivity of construction and that quality which unites a structure with the spirit and the plasticity of the Greek landscape.” In fact, behind every building or design by Aris Konstantinidis was his theory of the illustrious Life Vessels and the unbreakble continuum of house architecture in Greece,
from the ancient times to the present day. His first book, Two Mykonos “Villages” (1947), opens like a lover’s letter. Alongside his love for the island, a pronounced ambivalence is clear right from the start. The ambivalence between his unadulterated love for the edifice - a kind of love that needs no words - and his need to express and commit to paper his thoughts, his ideas, his impressions and his feelings. “I’d rather not write a thing,” he begins, “and let the sketches speak for themselves. But there, the more I think about it, the less I can bear to keep silent… Approaching the island from afar, slowly beholding it, a strange pain envelops you. Pain for a body that floats
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He stands against a rationalistic, mechanised approach towards houses. He studies the past and tradition on Mykonos, and in them, finds a more human concept of space.
one moment on the sea froth and the next on the blue sky’s endless dome, but always in a light that’s pervasive, bright, weightless and translucent, and permeates your being – what a sweet kind of pain this is.” Constantinides, sharp-witted, difficult, foe of others, but also at war with his own intelligence and his own sensitivity. The man who chose to end his own life, found on Mykonos an unprecedented magic that appeased him. “It’s true, now, here in this new world – on this island - everything, the whole lot, rises. Erect like ancient sculptures, clear, gentle and simple, and speaking the language of nature… Then a new, warm feeling grips you, and an awareness – a belief - that is truly novel. Simple, pure and wholly natural, making you mould yourself anew.” In Two “Villages” (that are in reality two houses), the architect embarks on his reflections, talking about folk, anonymous architecture. He stands against a rationalistic, mechanised approach towards houses and hamlets that alienate man from his environment, from his “feeling”. Constantinides studies the past and tradition on Mykonos, and in them, finds a more human concept of space, more unified with nature and the human spirit, especially the spirit that is surrounded by natural elements.
However, Constantinides was a modernist and his thought far removed from traditionalism. For him, a contemporary architect’s job is not to copy or even adapt anonymous architecture as he found it. It is to assimilate its close relation to the place and the landscape, to the climate and the light of Greece, with the “spirit, the beauty and that inner throb that humble, I would say, religiousness that gives even to the most material of necessities scope, a meaning and a substance.” (Two “Villages”) Constantinides’ most famous accomplishments were the Xenia Hotels, built between 1957-1967, with him heading the Division of Projects and Design and co-operating with notable architects of the time (such as his “nemesis”, Dimitris Pikionis). He concentrated on the selection of the ideal sites, the orientation and the absolute integration of the building with the surrounding landscape, the balance between interior and exterior spaces, and the simplicity and serenity of form. Built in the early ‘60s, four decades after its design, the Xenia of Mykonos (today’s Mykonos Theoxenia), effortlessly remains an impressively modern building. The simplicity of stone, of that honest material emerging from the island landscape, the soft geometric lines and the sea view, afforded by almost all spaces, compose an image just like the one Constantinides visualised, drawing close to nature and man. From the two “houses” of Mykonos that he so tenderly described in his book in 1947, he proceeded two decades later to the realisation of those initial, so beautifully expressed ideas. His prolific career as a chief architect of Greek Travel Organization did not stop at the Xenia Hotels and the vacation homes he built in Greece. With numerous articles and books, and his verbal dexterity as an ally, he was a professor at the University of Thessalonica and at the Zurich Polytechnic, and was a visiting member of the Bavarian Academy of Fine Arts in Munich. Moreover, among others, he designed the Archaeological Museum of Ioannina. In his last interviews, Constantinides appeared angry at the artificial inhumanity of architecture in Athens and Greece. For Aris Constantinides, architecture as a profession was “a vocation of culture and eminence.” That’s why Constandinidis has unquestionably influenced the younger architects and has helped raise the status of architecture in Greece.
/AC E D I A / Non-stop work may once have been considered one of the keys to paradise, but today workaholism and the impertinence of schedules must be included in the new deadly sins. Firstly, because they can send you to hospital and, secondly, because they distance you from yourself. The image of the blissful sunbathers on Panormos or the calm awnings at Aghios Sostis dynamite the dry intensity of daily life. Laying back on the islandâ€™s beaches is the perfect prologue to quench every breathlessnessâ€”an echo of the city you carry inside you. all the while inspiring you to become the protagonist of insight.
RelaxNation B Y LOLA S K A LT S A
All five senses take off to Mykonos, as your stay there offers the ideal conditions of enjoyment and relax.
A Hotel An exclusive boutique hotel with unique and eclectic architectural design, proximity to town, stunning and discrete location, just 2 kilometres from the centre of Mykonos’ Chora, the A Hotel by Mykonos Arhontiko, welcomes you with its verdant gardens, and its traditional houses spanding in 22-25 m2. You will find high ceiling rooms, private verandas full of flowers, a pool, a jacuzzi pool bar and a restaurant, where home and traditional dishes are served. The hotel’s services include free transport to and from the airport, as well as a friendly approach to four-legged friends, who can reside with a €40 charge included in the Pet Pack. Inform the hotel about your pet before your arrival. Smell: the verdant gardens full of flowers. Drakouri, +30 22890 23358, ahotelmykonos.com
passionate Mykonos holiday, awakened by the overwhelming spirit and light echoing the Ancient site of Delos. Touch: Let yourself be pampered at the spa. Kalo Livadi, +30 6949667733 aegonmykonos.com
Anastasia Village The unique location and the friendly environment in coordination with a traditional but luxury Mykonian architectural style, plus the identification for non-stop positive changes and continuous quality improvement concerning the service point will guarantee the clients dreamy holidays. The Anastasia hotel is a complex of 85 bungalows with a wide range of facilities and activities dedicated to exceed the visitors' expectations. Ηear: The sound of the sea. Kalafatis, +30 22890 71205, hotelanastasiavillage.gr
Aegon Mykonos, the newly arrived luxury hotel, located at Kalo Livadi beach is surrounded by a breathtaking Aegean landscape of supreme beauty. Living spaces are designed to capture every depth and breadth of your soul, embellished with indulgent private pools, hot tubs, in-room entertainment, spa and fitness facilities. The Aegon Mykonos accommodation will serve for a narcissistic, vibrant and
Live the total experience in Andronikos Hotel with splendid views of the Aegean sea and the enchanting sunset. Andronikos is the ultimate choice when you look for a luxurious hotel that combines easy access to the beaches and Chora as well. The asset here is the futuristic design, that inspires the senses, something that is complete with a visit at the Lady Finger Greek restaurant offering Greek gourment. Then
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come the soothing spa treatments at the Earth Spa and the relaxed atmosphere at the Skybar. Touch: Indulge in the spa treatments. Drafaki, +30 22890 024231, Αndronikos.gr
Aphrodite Hotel Αt Aphrodite Beach Resort Mykonos, you are always greeted with the familiar comforts of home from the moment you arrive. As a 4-star accommodation at Kalafatis Beach, the resort offers its guests a wide variety of services and facilities, giving them the choice to indulge in a myriad
of experiences to complement their stay. Aphrodite Beach Resort is built amphitheatrically right in front of a unique one mile long and white-sanded beach with crystal clear waters. It feautures a spacious swimming pool that faces the sea, a main bar, a pool bar, beach bar, a restaurant in main building, the beach front a la carte restaurant “Thalassa”, 3 chapels for weddings, a tennis court, a gym and Jacuzzi. All that make it one of the best 4-star resorts on Mykonos and Cyclades. See: the sunset while dining at Thalassa. Kalafatis Beach, +30 22890 71367 & 71368, aphrodite-mykonos.com
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Clockwise from left: Aegon Mykonos, Riviera Hotel
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TOP: VANGELIS PATERAKIS
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Clockwise from top left: Petasos Hotel, Ostraco Suites, Bill & Coo Coast Suites, Mykonos Grand, Legacy Suites, Dionysos hotel, La Stella, Aphrodite Hotel,
Bill & Coo Coast Suites
BOTTOM: LEFT: JOHN DIMOTSIS, RIGHT: ©STAVROS HABAKIS
A natural color palette, soft lighting, complemented by high-end amenities and modern-Mykonian influenced decor, make for an inviting, refreshing and relaxing atmosphere. The Bill & Coo Coast Suites is located in a unique spot in Ai Yiannis, which embraces the sea, facing the sacred island of Delos. Its 15 suites, almost touching the beach, are a case study in immediacy without losing their sense of refinement. Whether 30 or 45 m2 in size with private pools and wooden details and bespoke furniture, they give an artistic touch to the spaces. As for the culinary experience, meet Mediterranean gastronomic traditions at their best. Enjoy the Valmont Spa that offers relaxation with an inspired blend of luxury and comfort. Τοuch: Dive in he private swimming in the pools. Aghios Ioannis, +30 22890 26292, bill-coohotel.com
Bill & Coo Suites & Lounge A romantic oasis over Megali Ammos where minimalist design meets sheer relaxation. A distinguished member of the Leading Hotels of the World, Bill
styled luxury reflects trendy, yet timeless, Mediterranean elegance. The Dionysos hotel's suites and apartments blend modern comforts with a traditional and relaxing décor, while the rooms has a garden with either a sea or pool view. See: The view of the garden and the sea. Ornos, +30 22890 023313, dionysoshotel.gr
& Coo Suites and Lounge is a peaceful, stunning, paradisiacal haven of luxury. Stretching its discreet luxury across 30 unique, magnificently-styled suites, this 5 star Mykonian hotel will make you feel you are in your own private hideaway. The hotel also boasts a massage room next to the fully-equipped gym, an infinity pool with countless stars, a romantic Lounge Bar, as well as the Bill & Coo Gastrobomy Project that serves culinary perfections of exceptional taste crafted by chef Ntinos Fotinakis from fresh, organic ingredients. Τaste for the chef's excellent recipes. Megali Ammos, +30 22890 26292-4, bill-coo-hotel.com
In one of the most beautiful areas of Mykonos, just 4km from Chora, οn Ai Yiannis beach, there are 24 whitewashed suites, whose excellent architecture, combined with unrivaled design, captivate the visitor's senses at the first glance. The En Lefko Suites are the perfect holiday refuge for those who appreciate abstract elegance and respect for traditional architecture. The luxury hotel offers 24 dazzling white suites with exquisite architecture and minimal design. From the moment you arrive on the island to the moment of your final farewell, the specially-trained staff and experienced field agents of En Lefko are at your service to provide a wide range of personalized services, from offering up-to-date information and recommendations to planning unforgettable days and nights, making even your wildest dreams come true. See: The excellent traditional elements in the architecture. Aleomandra Ornou, +30 22890 26814, enlefko.com.gr
BOTTOM RIGHT: JOHN DIMOTSIS
Ideally located 50 metres from the beach of Ornos, near the heart of Mykonos, Dionysos features 25 beautiful rooms and suites, guaranteeing unique comfort. It is the ideal resort for travelers wishing to take full advantage of the Cyclades’ traditional way of life. Its Mykonian-
En Lefko Suites
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La Stella Surrounded by a gorgeous colorful garden, this hotel is a veritable oasis of calm and tranquility despite being located near the centre of the island. The relaxed atmosphere of the rooms combines traditional Cycladic architecture with more modern aesthetics and an emphasis on earthy tones. Your days at Stella begin with a hearty homemade breakfast of your choice and continues with Greek-Mykonian creations, as well as sandwiches, crepes, ice-creams, homemade cakes and a big variety of coffees and drinks. In the afternoon, gaze at the sun setting next to Delos island, as you enjoy an aperitif in the pool area. Taste: The delicious handmade recipes. Glastros, +30 22890 79134, lastella.gr
Legacy Suites Legacy Suites in Mykonos offer superb accommodation in a prime location. Situated only 250m from the picturesque town of Mykonos (Chora), the suites can be your central base from which to explore the whole island within a few minutes’ drive. The traditional architecture, combined with the amenities provided in the houses and their privileged position, create a welcoming environment in which nature blends with the blue of the Aegian Sea. Built on the slopes overlooking the deep blue waters of the Aegian sea, offers a relaxing, peaceful and memorable stay. See: The horizon of the Aegian sea. Despotika, +22890 028003, legacymykonos.com
The joy of satisfying all the senses adds more points to your relaxation.
Clockwise from top left: Andronikos Hotel, Leonis Summer Houses, A Hotel, Anastasia Village, En Lefko Suites
Leonis Summer Houses A complex of 4 houses, 3 studios, 2 suites and 1 villa, is built according to the traditional Mykonian architecture in a 5,000 square meters field and designed in such a way, in order to secure and maximize the privacy and comfort of its guests. It is constructed in uneven levels, so that all lodgings have private verandas with a breathtaking sea view to Ornos beach and Chora. The lush garden within the complex contains a variety of organic products, that are used for your breakfast while the view from the idyllic pool area will never cease to amaze you. Hear: The wonderful sound of the sea. Ornos, +30 22890 24825, leonis.gr
Mykonos Grand Inspirationally conceived to capture the essence of the surrounding natural wonders, this luxury beach resort is the perfect setting for rare moments of romance, adventure and excitement. Providing guests with personalized services of the highest standard, the resort offers luxurious accommodation in a serene environment of traditional Cycladic architecture and a sense of romance. The Althea Spa Center, the stone-build amphitheater ideal for yoga and pilates sessions, the tennis courts, the swimming pool and the refurbished Technogym Fitness Center are also available to
revitalize your body and mind. The Dolphins of Delos restaurant’s opulent dining room offers dramatic, open-air dining with panoramic sea views that add to the enjoyment of the delicious meals, while the White Bar welcomes its guests with refreshing cocktails and a dramatic outdoor terrace with a telescope to admire the impressive view. See: Tthe panoramic sea view. Aghios Ioannis, +30 22890 25555, mykonosgrand.gr
can easily be converted to an excellent party space. Guests are invited to free their imagination as they enter the fantasy world of this glamorous cycladic island. It also offers spa therapy facilities, with a choice of private therapy in the room. As a bonus, the hotel has two traditional chapels for wedding and religious services. Τouch: The spa's therapy facilities. Drafaki, +30 22890 23396, ostraco.gr
lavishly offer you the chance to enjoy all the island vibes, with minimalist luxury. The hotel is a few minutes from the Aghios Stefanos beach and 4 kilometres from Mykonos Chora. Taste: The Lebanese and Greek food at the restaurant. Tourlos, mykonosriviera.reserve-online.net
Imagine waking up every morning to a view that is nothing short of breathtaking! As the sun is high and a gentle breeze tickles your skin, you just can’t wait to soak up the sunrays and take a refreshing dip in your private pool. In a prime location right above the famous Panormos bay, the Panormos Villas feature ample living spaces that are designed with luxury, comfort and privacy in mind. This summer, enjoy the ultimate getaway experience in a perfect home away from home that combines traditional Cycladic architecture with modern comforts. Touch for the gentle breeze that tickles your skin. Panormos, +30 22890 77596, mykonospanormosvillas.com
With a beautiful view of the Aegean, luxury has a name: Ostraco Suites! Next to Mykonos Chora, it offers a relaxing veranda with an attractive pool and an elegant cocktail bar, as well as a restaurant, which
This luxurious five-star hotel, member of the Small Luxury Hotels group, stands majestically on a private peninsula offering unlimited class, impeccable taste, seductive luxury, and stunning sea views of
It is built like an amphitheatre on the Tourlos marina, five minutes from the sea, offering an expansive beautiful view and excellent services. The two restaurants, the amazing 500 m2 spa and 200m2 pool,
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TOP: ANDREAS BEKAS, BOTTOM: JOHN DIMOTSIS
the Aegean for a setting of unique privacy and relaxation. The luxury rooms and suites, each one tastefully decorated and equipped with deluxe amenities, exude a sense of elegance and sophistication. The a la carte V.I.P. restaurant, with its unique impressive dome and magnificent views of the Aegean, offers exquisite international fusion creations and an impeccable service. The Le Club Restaurant and the Pool Bar provide the setting for unforgettable experiences, while the 500 sqm Aqua Marine Spa offers revitalizing therapies, thalassotherapy that will ensure you regain your equilibrium and find your inner peace. Touch: A therapeutic spa. Platis Yialos, +30 22890 23437, petasos.gr
Portes Hotel The Cycladic hotel is created for those who value intimacy combining luxury within a serene ambience. The Portes Mykonos Hotel is the perfect scenery for an extraordinary vacation experience. Boasting a privileged location just 2 km away from Mykonos Chora and 850 m. from Psarou, the most cosmopolitan beach of the island, the spectacular hotel offers the perfect escape for exclusivity, intimate privacy and sheer luxury. Blending traditional whitewashed architecture with contemporary touches, 13 spacious luxury suites and villas, it provides modern facilities and a selection of services to spoil the most discerning guests. Glastros, +30 22890 07774, portesmykonos.com
Big or little sins are excused when it comes to the feeling of calmness in Cyclades.
Rochari Spacious rooms with Aegean inspired ambiance, all made with the finest quality of Greek marble and the iconic colors of Mykonian architecture, just a few minutesâ€™ walk from Chora and the old port. Rochari offers a great selection of rooms to choose from, and several terraces with stunning views of the Aegean Sea. Spend the day lounging by the pool, have a sunset drink and enjoy lingering into the twilight hours. The hotel is ideal for creating new friendships and rekindling old and throughout your day there is always a familiar face to greet you. Hear: The lounge music while enjoying your drink. Ag. Ioannou Str., +30 22890 23107, rochari.com
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From top: Rochari hotel, Panormos Villas, Portes hotel
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Q UA L I T Y & LU X U RY S E RV I C E S For everything you need about real estate in Mykonos, experts are here for you!
Mykonos Estates The twenty years of experience in the real estate sector of Mykonos, make the company of Kostantionos and Evagelos Palkogiannis, the most reliable name in real estate on Mykonos. Specialising in seafront real estate, villas for rent and real estate for sale on the island of the winds, the company manages a large portfolio, ensuring immediate solutions, advantageous prices and quality services. It collaborates with reliable architects, engineers, lawyers and notaries, for a credible and continuous management of the real estateâ€™s transactions. Vougli, +30 6943731919, 6956516096, mykonosestates.com
MIDDLE: ANDREAS BEKAS
Kitty J. Laios One of the most dynamic companies in the market, having in its broader client list some of the greatest names in the Greek and international sector, is active in the international real estate space. Kitty Laios has offices in Mykonos, Athens, Thessaloniki and other cities in Greece, as well as in London, Paris and Abu Dhabi, opening up new, promising markets abroad. The now international company, undertakes the representation of building of great beauty, with the client and his needs as the reference point, finding the right solutions for every professional
and individual. Ornos, +30 6932421866, laios-estate.com
Mykonos Pearls Offering a rich and diverse portfolio of masterpiece villas, Mykonos Pearls are ready to meet even the most demanding needs of every guest. With excellent knowledge of Mykonos and with event hosting experience to be its important skills, Mykonos Pearls aspire to become your first and favorite choice, providing a highly professional, transparent and competitive product. Ornos, +30 698 6711072, email@example.com
From top: Mykonos Pearls, Mykonos Estates, Engels & Volkers, Kitty J. Laios real estate
Î•ngels & Volkers Buyers from Europe dominate the market of Mykonos. The island is particularly popular with Germans, Swiss and Austrians. The prime locations are in Chora, Tourlos and Aleomandra near Mykonos Town, as well as in the areas close to the beaches of Kalo Livadi, Kalafati and Ftelia. Real estate on the Cyclades island makes for a stable capital investment and as said Natalie Leontaraki "Mykonos is the frontrunner ahead of all the other Greek islands and the entire Mediterranean. engelvoelkers.com
Passion for art A demand for art in Mykonos, a cultural message! Venus Gallery, a new, hopeful art space, is inside Aphrodite Beach Resort in Mykonos. A result of the hotel’s heartfelt wish to upgrade the brand’s cultural identity and promote the local modern artists’ excellent work. The gallery aims to preserve the land’s historic and intellectual heritage, but also to give opportunities for the exploration of new artistic horizons. In 2019, its first year of operation, the gallery will host more than 90 creators. The selection of
artists and their works is done through the Restart Cultural Tourism program, which is connected to the strengthening of international interest in Greek art. Venus Gallery offers free recommendations to art collectors and to innovative artists who aspire to exhibit and send a message through their work. Mykonos is a heavenly island, which apart from its natural beauty has a vigorous source of culture. Enjoy a wonderful vacation, enjoy art!
Kalafatis Beach, Mykonos Island, Greece, +30 22890 71367, +30 22890 71368, aphrodite-mykonos.com
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T A S T E
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Kalafatis Beach, Mykonos, tel.: +30 22890 72081 â€¢ www.bluemykonos.com Blue Mykonos blue_mykonos
Globetrotterâ€™s home Imagine a place that reflects all your travels and dreams. Imagine a house decorated with imaginative design. And make it yours! T he first thing one perceives while entering the Andreas Kritikos shop is its singularity. The special architecture in tandem with the wide range of timeless furniture with simple lines from European and American brands coexist in total harmony with vintage pieces, selected antiques and modern or old decorative items. Being a keen enthusiast of tradition and a collector of old items, he travels around the world and selects antiques with particular attention and knowledge. Andreas Kritikos, carrying
on the family tradition since 1962, has always been an inquiring mind in the field of high quality and timeless furniture. His furniture has been selected by strict standards, based on premium quality, perfect production and high aesthetics. The company collaborates with various famous firms around the globe and is the Greek representative of many worldrenowned brands in the area of furniture and ornamental items, such as Nautica, Ernest Hemingway, Humphrey Bogart.
Info: 338 Kifissias Ave., 14563, Kifissia, +30 210 6208501, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.andreaskritikos.com
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Clockwise from left: Beefbar on the Coast, Principote, Cavo Paradiso, Agia Anna restaurant & bar, Scorpios
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I BEACH it again.
TOP LEFT: VANGELIS PATERAKIS, ΟΙ ΥΠΌΛΟΙΠΕΣ JOHN DIMOTSIS
“We excuse our sloth under the pretext of difficulty” Quintilian said. And yet, when our feet reach the sand and our eyes “travel” through the waves, we can say that we excuse our sloth under the pretext of coastal living.
B Y VIVI VO UR TSA
— Aghios Ioannis Protected from both northerly and southerly winds, the beach is divided in two by some gentle rocks and boasts the stunning sunset featured in the 1989 film, Shirley Valentine. Among the beach’s strong points is the interesting seabed towards the right, ideal for snorkeling, the very fine pebbles that are perfect for natural reflexology and for barefoot luxury lovers. For such an experience visit the Beefbar on the Coast in Mykonos (mykonos.beefbar.com)
Elia A lot of people prefer Elia as the best beach on the island, ideal for water sports and for families. Do not forget that it is one of the bigger sandy beaches on the island and that it keeps a bohemian feeling. It is better to visit it on days with a north wind for calm waters. Revive that something bohemian hidden in you in Elia Mykonos (eliamykonos.gr)
Lia Lia is the last of the southern beaches that you can go by car. A small bay with deep crystal waters protected from the strong northerly winds which is ideal for
snorkeling. This is the alternative preferred by celebrities who arrive by boat. Get ready for a more secluded experience, walk over the rocks to reach the neighboring Tigani beach. But before that, have a look at Liasti beach bar (liasti.com)
Aghia Anna (Kalafatis) Drive a bit further past Kalafatis or walk a few minutes to find the somewhat hidden little beach. With clean, emerald waters and sand that continues some distance into the sea, the beach is embraced by ancient Divounia, which act as wind breakers for its calm and velvet sandy beach. Experience the farm-to-table Greek Island cuisine served at the Nesaea restaurant with the philosophy of Nice n’ Easy restaurants (niceneasy.gr) or have a romantic dinner at Spilia Seaside (spiliarestaurant.gr) and Agia Anna restaurant (saintannarestaurant.gr)
Aghios Stefanos This is ideal beach for those who wish to avoid high society, admire the magnificent views of the Small Delos islands and enjoy a magical sunset with the locals. If you feel like adventurous, keep driving towards the protected Houlakia beach. Swim to the small cove behind the rocky shoreline and benefit from this idyllic location despite the strong winds.
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Panormos The more lively beach of Mykonos, remains a quiet corner. This ex hippy and nudist haunt is reminiscent of old Mykonos, while it has a wild beauty with its colours changing throughout the day. Don’t miss the August full moon party here; an unforgettable experience. Or the chance to spend a day at the Principote nestled on the breathtaking beachfront (principote.com)
Psarou It has been experiencing glory days since the 1980s, setting the summer’s trends and defining the concept of luxury living on Mykonos. It boasts warm waters even from the early spring. The road is quite narrow with sharp turns and requires attention. If you have some time, enter the design world of Nammos Village with the Christian Louboutin Pop Up Store, the Kessaris store and the brand new Balenciaga store arrivals.
Ornos The island’s most popular family beach attracts all types of tourists, Greek families and quite a few locals. The natural barrier created by the settlement’s houses blocks the strong north wind which often pounds the island. Ornos’ long sandy beach has numerous restaurants and café-bars with tables all the way to the sand. Experience the first and only Buddha Bar Beach at Santa Marina Resort & Villas (santamarina.gr).
Paraga It is the first beach on the island to open and the last to close, since its favorable orientation guarantees warm days from May to October. There is easy parking at both entrances: from Aghia Anna and just before Paradise. Get ready for the frenziest dancing at SantAnna (+30 6956 762847, santannamykonos.com). Taste the traditional tastes at Tasos taverna (+30 22890 23002) and the bohemian style of Scorpios enjoying its vibes until the night hours (scorpiosmykonos.com).
Megali Ammos The beach is ideal for a quick dip for those who want to keep within a safe distance from the Chora. Accessible even on foot, the golden beach with fine sand and northerly winds is also a great place for windsurfing. "Dive" in the unique pool of Bill & Coo Suites & Lounge and
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Clockwise from left: Korfos, SantAnna, Kalafatis' deep blue, Aphrodite Hotel, Super Paradise,
taste the dishes of the Bill& Coo Gastronomy Project (bill-coo-hotel.com).
Kalo Livadi In the southern eastern part of the island, there is one of the best organized beaches with a strong cosmopolitan feel, that covers every entertainment and taste expectation on a long blonde sandy beach with green-blue clear water, abundant umbrellas, sunbeds and watersports. Experience the new way of entertainment in the Blue Marlin Ibiza Mykonos nestled in the new Hotel Aegon Mykonos (aegonmykonos.com)
Super Paradise Throughout the years, Super Paradise has made its name a synonym to party on Mykonos. A landmark holiday destination, “Super” has nurtured generations with frenzied parties and never-ending fun. Access by car is good, while the last incline before the parking is difficult. Have fun with exhilarating beats and fusion or exotic delicacies until late at night. The perfect setting is Jackie O’ Beach Club & Restaurant (jackieobeach.com).
Paradise It is among the first of the island’s hot spots to strongly support the nudist dogma. Numerous beach bars are lined on the beach, inspiring people to get up and
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Kapari A western beach that is worth visiting late in the afternoon. A ten-minute walk from Aghios Ioannis and you are at one of the island’s last havens. Nudists and old Mykonos devotees gather here daily, while the concept of organization is completely absent. Dive into the sea from the rocks at the end of the beach and seek your privacy.
Agrari On the south side of the island, it introduces its charm and calmness. It has sun loungers and water sports and can also be accessed by small boats from Platis Gialos. The beach’s right-hand side, by the rocks, is ideal for diving.
Ftelia Ftelia is divided into two by a rock formation that reaches the sea. Starting from Chora, take a right turn at the crossroads to discover the ideal surfing destination and admire a performance offered by the virtuoso surfers. Dance, drinks and good tastes await for you at Ftelia (fteliabeachclub.com).
Kalafatis dance. The beach is also accessible by sea on small boats (caiques) which depart from Ornos and Platis Gialos. The nights at Cavo Paradiso with a dazzling dj programme are enjoyable. (cavoparadiso.gr)
Fokos & Myrsini
JOHN DIMOTSIS, SHUTTURSTOCK.COM
Fokos still remains an untouched treasure, as buses don’t reach this beach, with shallow green water and thick sand. Picturesque and calm with the island’s coldest
Driven by your pleasures, beachhopping is where you should spend your energy.
waters, it is located right after the artificial lake of Marathi and is quite seriously affected by the north winds. Myrsini is the next beach with crystal-clear green waters. Another small, sandy gem that calms you, with its natural tranquility and its blue horizon.
Aghios Sostis No make-up, bars, shops, tourist enterprises or sunbeds. With wonderful deep blue water, it favors snorkeling
fans. Here you will see celebrity and anonymous nudists, as well as locals. Avoid the August meltemi winds which make conditions unwelcoming. You could go by your own vehicle or by taxi.
Aghia Anna (Paraga) Aghia Anna still maintains, to a degree, the image of a quiet beach, functioning as a discharging point from its two noisy neighbors. The beach faces southwest and gets the sun until late, offering the opportunity for long-term sunbathing before or after enjoying the authentic recipes of Nikolas taverna (nikolastaverna.com). Taste the dishes of Pinky Beach (+30 22890 28497, 6971675868).
This is one of the island’s biggest beaches and even when crowded, it offers a sense of space which is ideal for families. Sports lovers would not change it for the world. The sand is quite pebbly, while there are many trees for natural shade. Ideal for a dinner by the sea at Thalassa Restaurant of Aphrodite Mykonos Hotel (Aphrodite-mykonos.com). Get ready for a diving lesson by world record holder Waldemar Foit at his W-Diving school (mykonos-diving.com)
Platis Gialos Protected from the winds and beautiful albeit packed, Platis Gialos is fairly developed. Do not miss out on the opportunity to learn how to water ski on its calm waters. Taste your skills with jet ski exercises in the afternoon avoiding the very hot hours (mykonoswatersports.gr) or relax in the spa of Petasos Beach Resort (petasos.gr)
Korfos Just 2,5 km from Chora, at Korfos beach, you encounter intense winds that create the most adventurous waves, the perfect setting for kitesurfing. Try it under the guidance of the instructors of Kite Mykonos (kitemykonos.com).
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NAM MO S
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where to go to be seen
B E AC H . . . N O M I C S The new beach life philosophy transfers the nightlife from the Chora's alleys to the most popular coasts and beach bar restaurants of the island. The sunset is no longer the time to return at Matoyianni but the moments when the night shift of the coastal spots begin. The new state of fun is gaining followers of all ages and gradually changing the coastal face of Mykonos.
Where to go to be a sinner JAC K I E Oâ€™ B E AC H C L U B C AVO PA R A D I S O SCOR PIOS E V E RY W H E R E A F T E R 3 A . M .
Where to go to be a saint PA R A P O R T I A N I DELOS M O N A S T E RY O F PA L A I O K A S T R O T R AG O N I S S I
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where to go to be seen by no one GL Y
Scorpios is changing hands: The Soho Hotel invests on the beach bar and San Giorgio Design Hotel. The Beach Stockmarket's rumor has it that Ibiza's Pacha club is going after Alemagou at Ftelia.
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Rendez-vous at the new Garden The new meeting point of the island welcomes you at its own strong point, The Garden of Mykonos.
A warm sea breeze gently touches your face while you are drinking a fresh lemonade, smelling the particular scent of a person, looking at the sunset view that spreads in front of your balcony. Which balcony? The one where the recollection of a music tune, the ambience and its aura make you come again and again. Itâ€™s The Garden of Mykonos that focuses on bringing you these experiences at your table enhancing the joy of savory dishes and beverages. The environment embraces all those external parameters that build up your pre-conceived idea
of what you are going to taste. And it will be even better than what you expected. Gathering seasonal Greek herbs, vegetables and essences, its specialists combine classic and innovative techniques to offer you something really special. Beverage highlights include sophisticated classic and tailor-made cocktails, all designed and served in handmade glassware with unique presentation. And donâ€™t forget the world's finest collections of spirits and wines sourced from around Greece and the rest of the globe. They are all await you in the garden.
Despotika, +30 6932545616
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Tel.: +30 210 2201515 +30 6993142350 mytaximykonos
Real Estate Services In Mykonos, real estate investments need knowledge and professionalism of high standards. In other words, the Mykonos Estates specialists. In these unique places, Mykonos and Delos, with the amazing beaches, the picturesque alleys, the plentiful sun and the wonderful people, the choice of real estate shouldn’t be left to chance. That’s why Angelo Palkogiannis’ company, Mykonos Estates, with many years of experience in real estate and with the motto “honesty, reliability, discreetness and long-term relationships”, is there to offer its excellent services and its proven technical knowledge. So, in this top summer destination, that combines natural beauty, exquisite architecture and aesthetics, intense night life and high quality gastronomy, the choice of real estate becomes an advantage in the experienced hands of the company that works diligently and professionally, based on the needs and demands of the clients, for a flawless result, in the fulfilment of their dreams. Info: +30 6956516096, 6943731919, mykonosestates.com
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MICROCEMENT COATINGS Deeply rooted in the Mediterranean architecture, microcement coatings continue to be the most sophisticated and minimalistic trend in contemporary construction. To this end, ISOMAT has developed a complete range of microcement and decorative coatings, aiming to provide solutions to even the most demanding applications. ISOMATâ€™s microcement coatings for floors, walls and built-in furniture stand out due to their excellent waterproofing, high durability, scratch-resistance properties, as well as their unique and timeless aesthetic result.
Visit our website www.isomat.eu
/AVA R I T I A / Is it wrong to want it all? This is, however, the most earthly utopia which, in its calmest version, translates into creativity. Talent contains a hint of unsatisfaction. Perhaps this is why theologians gave greed top marks and classified it as the most sinful of the sins. And Mykonos, with its magic, motivates you to want it all here and now. The greed of the experience of desire. You enter the shops in Chora and you suddenly realise that one item is not enough; you want to buy the shops and the walls. The same is pretty much true for the entire shopping ark in the rest of the island. On Mykonos you are a realist, because you simply seek the impossible.
I want it all! So many things, so little time. One summer is never enough to see, admire and pursue all these hot and select items that you will find in the most precious boutiques and stores. And yet, you have an insatiable appetite for searching, so go for it! B Y V I V I V OU R T S A
— AL GIGA MYKONOS Welcome to the Greek designers’ spot on the island. Find the new dresses by Liana Camba, the fresh men’s designs by Dante and items by the GARCONS SAUVAGE collection exclusively here. Get your bohemian vibes, have your snake skin outfit and your summer kimonos to be stylish
all day. And don’t forget to have a look at the new backpack -check out the python one- and the Athena bag in Aegean blue, available exclusively here as well. 6 Sotiros Str., +30 2289 306730
Balenciaga There is a surprise for you in Nammos Village. In building 7, you will find the new Balenciaga boutique where you will feel something from the essence and the aestheti of the famous brand. Post your presence and take a look at the new collection. Nammos Village, Psarou, +30 22890 78400
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Burberry Taking inspiration from the spirit and attitude of the fashion house’s redesigned flagship store, in 121 Regent Street in London, the Nammos Village pop-up store features a colour palette of white and pistachio. Throughout the store, fixtures and plinths are constructed in a variety of materials and textures, from plywood to mirror and high-gloss finishes. The ground floor also features a blank canvas wall for visitors to illustrate and decorate, inspired by the house’s Bond Street store. Nammos Village, Psarou, +30 22890 78400
Chanel Founded in 1986, LINEA PIU boutique has established itself as the ultimate destination of elegance in Greece for over three decades, through several exclusive partnerships. The sole representative of CHANEL in Greece since 1994, LINEA PIU is also the exclusive retailer of some of the finest global fashion houses such as Tom Ford, Ermanno Scervino and Blumarine. In the summer of 2012, LINEA PIU expanded its presence, opening a seasonal boutique on the picturesque island of Mykonos. The new boutique perfectly blends the
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Clockwise from top left: Guess, AL GIGA MYKONOS, Chanel, Dimitris Dassios
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spirit of this iconic location with the quality and refinement of LINEA PIU. 24 Kalogera Str., +30 22890 78921
Chora Art Home & Design The awarded for its interior design shop with special home and decoration items captures the eye and your interest when it comes to the renewal of your space. Decorate your walls with unique pieces that lead you to a different dimension. Maximum of intensity with the minimum of means. It is this, that leads the artists to give to painting a character of even greater barrenness. And it is the same power that leads you to adorn your space with artistic
objects, as well as a variety of elegant furniture, dining items, mirrors, handmade lucky charms and of course paintings. Aghios Taxiarchis, +30 22890 71107, 6973 492324 & 43 Florou Zouganeli Str., +30 22890 79363, mykonoschora.gr
Christian Louboutin Pop Up Store The object of desire for every woman, a pair of Christian Louboutin shoes, has found its own place on the Island of the Winds, in one of the most cosmopolitan spots, Nammos Village with a unique installation on the roof. The new venture of Enny Monaco is already a magnet for the brandâ€™s devotees and all those who want
Clockwise from top left: Harry Mestro, Themis Z, KessarisOra Kessaris, Evripides Art Gallery, Karat Mykonos
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lute summery Mimi Liberté SS19 collection and the modern version of the traditional kaftan by Afroditi Hera. Take your time, there are even more stylish choices for you to make the greatest impression on the island. Tria Pigadia, +30 22890 77100, ennymonaco.com
Evripides Art Gallery After a successful season in Athens, Evripides Art Gallery is now displaying in Mykonos commited to promote leading Greek artists with professionals, art collectors, and other artists to create an ever growing family dedicated to the world of fine art and fashion. Throughout the summer, Evripides Art Gallery is holding group exhibitions that showcase the best of Greek paintings today. The Evripides Art Gallery exceeds the expectations of visitors and is quickly becoming one of the top reference points for the passionate Art Lovers in Mykonos. 30 Kalogera Str., +30 22890 290056, evripides-art.gr
Guess In May 2019, the women's clothing and accessories store Guess in Mykonos was put into operation. The new Guess store develops on two levels of a total area of 54 sq.m. The object of the work was to re-arrange the internal operation of the store by implementing a series of architectural and electromechanical interventions, accompanied by new investments and colors, following the common corporate architecture chosen by Guess to host its collections and summer items. 10 M. Andronikou Str., +30 22890 77749, guess.eu to see the new, fabulous models, with the inspired designer’s seal. The characteristic red of his shoes, remains the trademark of his designs. Check out the specially designed Christian Louboutin bag for Mykonos. Nammos Village, 2 Arch Str., +30 22890 27724
of the most intellectual and avant-garde fashion designers of Greece and so does Mykonos when he opened his boutique on the island presenting his talent to its international travelers and devotees. Meet his new collection inspired by a safari and bohemian adventure. 30 Kalogera Str., +30 22890 29056
D.S. Gold Jewellery
Having started to present his collections in private shows in 2005, the Greek designer has immediately met recognition as his catwalks became legendary. The fashion world has accepted him as one
In this store, jewellery is a family affair. For more than two decades, the owners design and make high quality jewellery, which are suitable for all tastes and budgets. Knowhow, specialisation and aesthet-
ics meet with the precious materials in a jewellery shop that has something for everyone. What will you choose? Aghia Anna, Chora, +30 22890 25251, sahasgold.com
Enny Monaco Let’s talk about colours, vivid prints, sensational designs and premium quality. In other words, let’s talk about your next visit to Enny Monaco. Have a glance at the new Anjuna swimwear, the Gianvito Rossi heels, the elegant hats by Eugenia Kim, the wonderful Christian Louboutin’s limited Portugaba bags, the abso-
Harry Mestro As you walk through the door of Harry Jwls, you immediately realize that the inspiration is the actual everyday life of this store. Handmade items, unique and impressive, always inspired by Mykonos and its “free spirit” philosophy: the Aegean turquoise, the white houses, the red sunset sky, the openness to new ideas. Everything that enchants us on the island, you can wear it, in the form of the most bohemian necklaces and bracelets made from semiprecious stones. This year’s highlights is the unique Ancient Cultures series made exclusively in one piece design.
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11 Aghiou Gerasimou Str. & 28 Florou Zouganeli Str., +30 22890 27837
Karat Μykonos With the motto “Jewellery for the soul”, the alternative fine jewellery boutique in the heart of Mykonos downtown makes its statement with luxury, handmade jewellery by young as well as established Greek designers, made with silver and gold, impressively merging the traditional with the modern. Exceptional and unique jewels handmade by Greek artists, displayed in a stunning turquoise and cream colored space! 14 Mitropoleos Str., +30 22890 77949.
Kessaris - Ora Kessaris The art of jewelry has kept its rendez-vous with haute horlogerie in one mythical place: at Kessaris in Chora for decades. Now, this excellent connection can also be found at the new store in Nammos Village. Here you can highlight yourself with exquisite Kessaris creations and you can also admire the creations of the firms BVLGARI, De Grisogono, Loree Rodkin, Aaron Basha, Pippo Perez, Roberto Demeglio, Rolex, A.Lange&Sohne, Harry Winston, Richard Mille, Panerai, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Zenith, Tudor, Longines, Tissot, Tag Heuer, U-Boat, GaGa Milano, Omega and Wintex, as well as the finest office supplies and watch accessories. Kessaris Mykonos: 58 Mat. Andronikou
Str., +30 22890 22880, Kessaris in Nammos Village Psarou, +30 22890 22376, kessaris.gr
Lalaounis When visiting Mykonos, you should stop by the Lalaounis jewellery shop, with the famous brand’s classic and elegant masterpieces. Celebrities from all over the world, either on the red carpet or in exclusive advertising campaigns, have chosen them for their beauty and quality. The Ilias Lalaounis jewellery has become a necessary addition to the celebrities style. In his shop in Mykonos, an example of the nobility
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and simplicity of art, you’ll find everything you’ve ever admired and loved in the showcases of his jewellery stores, with designs inspired by Greek tradition, bound with gold and precious stones, such as the new Honeycomb Collection. 14 Ν. Polykandrioti Str. +30 22890 22444, iliaslalaounis.eu
Louis Vuitton boutique At Tria Pigadia, in a shop that exudes a Cycladic aura and Mykonian style, the iconic Louis Vuitton company has everything that fashion lovers adore. Among the company’s unique products, you will find the limited edition Portugaba bag. Also, in the shop you can find all the latest resort creations, in clothing, shoes and accessories, with the familiar quality and unsurpassed style. It also hosts the famous brand’s travel items, as well as men’s collections with a relaxed aesthetic. Enoplon Dynameon Str., Tria Pigadia, +30 22890 78850, eu.louisvuitton.com
that the shop that looks like a gallery, is expected to be a reference point on the island, for many years to come. Aghias Kyriakis Sq., + 30 22890 27320, shop.minastudio.com
Principote Agora If you are looking for something rare and incomparable to update your style, its glamorous boutique offers irresistible fashion statement outfits and premium accessories for any case and situations whether you spend your day at the beach bar res-
Marika’s Boutique A love at first sight, a shop that will make you join the island style. Cotton linen and silk dresses at their best expressions made by Join Clothes will definitely satisfy your cravings and you will find them exclusively here. You can choose from accessories, caftans beachwear and selected menswear all inspired by the island’s breeze, while Marika’s team will make your shopping
a unique experience. 39 Kouzi Georgouli Str., +30 22890 22285
Minas If the island was a jewel, it would have been a masterpiece created by Minas, the most famous jewelry designer on Mykonos. From the Jolly Roger and the Girl from Rio, to the double star every design by the talented Minas is, literally, a small work of art. And do not forget, the creative items and decorative pieces which add another artistic touch at home or as a gift to a loved one. Fortunately, his sons seem to have inherited his talent - which means
taurant or strolling at the island’s alleys. Its stylish treasures of kaftans, swimwear, shoes and flip flops, bags, sea towels and many more are all that you need. Panormos, +30 22890 77184
Rousounelos Want to see the new Rolex and Cartier collections? You have no choice but to come to Rousounelos shop. Here visitors come to Mykonos, loyal fans of luxury, to see the collections of their favourite watches. The hospitable shop also exposes more world-class treasures, such as Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet,
Patek Philippe, Breitling, Tudor and TechnoMarine. For two generations the Rousounelos family of Mykonos has proudly served as the official representative for such prestigious watchmakers. 32 Matoyianni Str., +30 22890 22797, rousounelos.com
Themis Z Themis Zouganeli is the designer of the THEMIS Z lifestyle brand, as well as a designer for Dior Maison and Atelier Swarovski. Her way of life and aesthetic has always been influenced by her upbringing in Athens, summers escaping to Mykonos and
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Clockwise from top left: D.S. Gold Jewellery, Soho Soho, Enny Monaco, Rousounelos, Minas, Lalaounis
You came, you saw, you purchased: Statement jewels, creative items, innovative objects and the list goes on. SUMMER 2019 | 175
Clockwise from top left: Mykonails, Principote Agora,, Zenit Events Center, Aegean Taxi, My Taxi Mykonos,, Don Blue Yachting, Chora's decorative objects.
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by her family’s story. The new ss19 collection reflects just these memories and influences: Athena knitted dress, Mykonos mini kaftan and Delos maxi kaftan are some of her creations. D. Mavrogenis Str. & Goumenio Sq., +30 22890 23210, themisz.com
Soho Soho It is just the Ali Baba’s cave for the fashionistas. Here, you will find international brands and famous designers such as: Alberta Ferretti, Alexander Wang, Athena Procopiou, Comme Des Garcons, Dior, Emilio Pucci, Helmut Lang, IRO, Jimmy Choo, John Varvatos, Mary Katrantzou, Moncler, Nicholas Kirkwood, Oscar de la Renta, Polina Sapouna Elis, Zadig & Voltaire and many more. 51 Matoyianni Str., +30 22890 27670
ate. Having established 18 years of working almost exclusively in Mykonos, it has a lot of experience and recognition in the sectors it operates in. Vougli, +30 22890 23647
Aegean Taxi It is the first taxi app on the Greek islands and provides solution to the problem of transportation on those destinations. In addition to partnering with licensed transport and car rental companies, Aegean Taxi operates its own cars. Users of the new Aegean Taxi app can choose from three categories of private cars for their transportation needs: Standard, SUV and Mini Vans. The company’s private fleet includes Audi Q3, Mercedes-Benz GLA and Range Rover automobiles. aegeantaxi.com
My Taxi Mykonos My Taxi Mykonos App allows you to book a taxi without having to call our dispatcher as well as set your route in advance or pick a driver, a preferred car, and more: Manage your taxi spendings, pay without a credit card and take advantage of discounts for regular clients. mytaximykonos.gr
Mykonos Horseland You may have not imagined it but you can have memorable riding experience on the Island of the Winds. Seize the opportunity to discover and ride through unique and breathtaking scenery, from Horseland in Ano Mera to Fokos Beach. Riders are accompanied by a professional guide who helps make the experience relaxed and comfortable. +30 22890 71439, mykonoshorse.com
Mykonails Whether building a nail or a business you have to begin with a solid foundation and
S E RV I C E S Aegean Landmark The AEGEAN LANDMARK firm operates in Mykonos exclusively since 2001 It engages in surveys and licensing for building houses and hotels and house construction. It also specialises in evaluating and solving technical issues that deal with real estate. It was created by Alexis Tzakos, surveyor - engineer and Lefteris Tzakos, architect - engineer (NMP), with permanent partner Christiana Tzouanou traffic engineer (NMP) and with Rafaela Ververi, civil engineer as a primary associ-
Don Blue Yachting Delos and Rhenia, Mykonos south coast and many more cruises to the Cyclades. This is the first reason why you will be addressed to Don Blue Yachting. The second is that you will do it with its private boats featuring nine types with the capacity of hosting up to ten passengers for an amazing experience. In addition to visiting and exploring other islands, you can furthermore mix-and-match its boats and the sea in various events for your special occasions. Ornos, +30 6947690768, donblue.gr
products you can trust. In Mykonails, they believe in the excellence of their products combined with the expertise of their skilled professionals. Inspired by the islands’ unique mix of tourist and local culture, the goal is to provide high-end nail services in the cosmopolitan island of Mykonos. Embracing the islands’ history, using a part of it in their signature logo, the Mykonian pelican waits to welcome you and polish you to perfection! 19 Aghias Kyriakis Str., +30 22890 77992
One Rent A Car The One rent a car can advise you what to
do and where to go in order to make the most of your holiday. They specialize in rental vehicles, from the car, to the quad, to the scooter. Its have a wide choice of models, all revised and fully functional, while their professional staff will be able to tell you which is the most suitable vehicle for your needs. They have from the scooter, to reach the sea more easily in the hottest periods of the summer, to ideal cars to visit the wildest part of the island. +30 2289 400 302, onecar.gr
Rental Car Mykonos The new high-quality fleet and the indisputable experience since 1990 are the essential characteristics of the company. You can rely on them for a careless road trip on Mykonos and the adventure you always wanted to live exploring every corner of the island. Whatever type and model of vehicle you need for that is here. You only have to choose. Provincial Rd, Mykonos, +30 22890 26464 & 00307, rentalcarsmykonos.com
Zenit Events Center As the Greek island of Mykonos has been a global spot for quality international tourism for decades and one of the most popular destinations in the Mediterranean, then Zenit Events Center a unique multi-functional space, perched at the top of a hill, on Paradise beach, is the proper environment for those interested to experience the authentic way of organising luxury events, professional meetings and impressive ceremonies on the beautiful Cycladic island. Paradise beach, +30 22890 27205, zenitevents.com
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Jewellery for Personalities As unique as the space that hosts the handcrafted jewellery, these unique creations by Harry Mestro make the loudest statement of the summer. One glance at the Harry Mestro display case is enough for you to understand that jewellery is not considered just another trendy accessory here, but rather a genuine artwork with inspiration and a soul. Veritable objets dâ€™art made with semiprecious stones and noble metals, every unique piece of jewellery created by Harry Mestro is made by hand and exudes its own special personality. These are the treasures that will enchant you in the downtown boutique. Pay also a visit at the brand new boutique in Ano Matogianni for them. Boasting the same design and philosophy, the new store is one more destination for the inspired jewels on the island. You can also admire all the designs and take a very good taste of Harry Mestros' talent at the showroom in Athens. Silver and gold-plated symbols, from dolphins to spirals, fuse in harmony with semiprecious stones
from all over Greece and other parts of the world, from Africa and the Indies to Thailand and Bali, thus creating an explosive energetic force that magnetizes everyone. Inspired by Greek Mythology, such as his latest creations, and not only, many of Harry Mestros' best selling jewelry are inspired by the books who has read and keeps reading since they are a source of continuous inspiration. This year's collection is called Land of the Gods and it is focused on ancient Greek gods, while Queens , Kings, Skulls, Primitive Forms, Scepters and Symbols are always included in his collections including precious stones, rubies, emeralds, sapphires and black diamonds. As he has studied sociology, many of his collections have to do with symbolisms and hidden messages regarding human nature, behaviors and choices. So unique, as unique is each one of us.
Harry Mestro I Workshop: 11 Aghiou Gerasimou Str., +30 2289 027 837 Harry Mestro II: 28 Fl. Zouganeli Str., +30 22890 78515, Mykonos Athens: 27 Skoufa Str.,Kolonaki, Athens Harry Mestro, Harry_Mestro
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material Evidence. Shiny moments need their generous doses of stardust: elegant jewels, elaborate timepieces, embellished fashion items and accessories, including the essentials, suitcases and travel bags. 1.
BY VIVI VO UR TSA
Twenty ~ 4 Automatic Wristwatch Patek Philippe, ROUSOUNELOS (rousounelos.com)
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The Kraken Exclusive Design Ring, HARRY MESTRO (harryjwls.com)
Serenity wide brim hat, THEMIS Z (Themisz.com)
Gold necklace DS GOLD JEWELLERY (sahasgold.com)
Thaddea Chain detail sandal, Atlas crossbody bag & Luxe leather bag, GUESS (guess.eu)
Epirus earrings with diamonds, LALAOUNIS (lalaounis.com)
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Eye mug, MOUTSOS (moutsos.gr)
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Travel bag, MONTROI (montroi.com)
Bookend Elvis, ANDREAS KRITIKOS (andreaskritikos.com)
BY trolley bag, BRICâ€™S (bagstories.gr)
Micro Merlin Scooter, SCOOTERISE (micro-scooters.gr)
Bag Kooreloo, AL GIGA MYKONOS (algigamykonos.com)
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Painting by Michalis Madenis, EVRIPIDES ART GALLERY (evripides-art.gr)
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Unique necklace in gold and silver with malachite and old cut diamonds. KARAT MYKONOS (14 Mitropoleos Str.)
Sophia Webster sandal, SOHO SOHO (sohosohoboutique.com)
Denim vest with handmade embroidered flower motives, DASSIOS (Dassios.com)
Clio top silk with silver embroidery, ETOILE CORAL (etoilecoral.com)
ZinaG hat, PRINCIPOTE AGORA BOUTIQUE (principote.com/boutique)
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Elit® Vodka by Stoli, KAROULIAS (karoulias.gr)
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Geometric emerald diamond earrings, KESSARIS-ORA KESSARIS (kessaris.gr)
Summer dress, JOHN P (johnp.gr)
Female marble figurine, Early Cycladic II period PRINCIPOTE CYCLADIC ART (principote.com)
Roamer searock automatic wristwatch, TIME CENTER (timecenter.gr)
Ouzo miniatures collection GOGREEK ® (gogreek.gr)
Grey Goose ® Vodka, AMVYX (amvyx.gr)
Summer in style! JohnP has the ideal proposals for you to make arresting impressions and stand out brightly Tickets check! Hotel check! All thatâ€™s left is to fill our bags with comfortable, feminine clothes with a summer vibe. We pick Greek made clothes, from cool materials, in distinct summer colours. JohnP stays true to the female consumer, combining competitive prices, excellent materials and unique style. The successful trajectory that started in 1980, has led the company into markets outside Greece, exporting to America, Europe and Cyprus. For a unique summer that will turn heads, choose JohnP creations and.. letâ€™s go on vacation! www.johnp.gr
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Ornos, Mykonos T. +30 2289 026 400 â€¢ Pl. Gialos, Mykonos T. +30 2289 400 302 M. + 30 6944 422 740 www.onecar.gr
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Rebels and Renegades. B Y I R A S I N I GA LI A
â€” Stars, designers, actors, significant personalities and international beauties. They all had something in common: the will to live unconventially and set their own rules of the game in Mykonos.
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DSQUARED2 — “Mykonos is creativity, originality, challenge, innovation, modesty, sin, purity. Mykonos is inspiration!” according to Dean and Dan, the twins from Canada, that have already clocked more than 18 years of Mykonos obsession—when they are not dashing about the catwalks of the world that is. Their return each summer to the beaches and the streets of the island are combined with all they could ask for in their summer escape: good food, nice people and the ultimate in entertainment! The eccentric designers took the Italian and international fashion scene by storm 19 years ago. Dean and Dan achieved international acclaim from working with showbiz A-listers. And while relaxing on Elia beach, they don’t even bat an eye at the number of guys and girls passing in the swimwear they designed.
— Pierre Cardin’s student, who launched his own Jean-Paul Gaultier line in 1976 and 21 years later presented Gaultier Couture, was well and truly bound to the island. You would find him walking around Matoyianni and being photographed at well-known venues till the wee hours. He preferred the beaches on the southern part of the island: Super Paradise, Platis Yialos, Ai Yiannis. Jean-Paul Gaultier was a honorary guest of Mykonos, deeply touched by the warmth of the people and the clarity of the surrounding colours. All that in combination with the island’s cosmopolitan allure, white mills, whitewashed houses, the narrow streets and amazing beaches. What more incentive does one need to became an ambassador of the island?
The Big Bang Mykonos' theory has started by a bar that was destined to create a whole philosophy of lifestyle.
— He christened Super Paradise and Paradise. He built Pierro’s... One of the first travelers to see this island as a gem in the rough, would be an Italian American painter by the name of Pierro Aversa. He was one of the most famous figures in European celebrity circles and immediately fell in love with Mykonos. Soon after, Pierro and Mykonian local, Adreas Koutsoukos, decided to open the chic cocktail bar, Pierros. It first became known as an elegant cocktail lounge, where the elite met in the early evening and stayed into the night. Aversa attracted celebrities and instilled the gay culture, which would later flood the island. It is not known who implicated him in drug charges and exiled him from the island.
CARL VON FURSTENBERG — He was born in a German castle, but made the island the centre of his world at the age of 16, following a family cruise. From 1972 Carlito (top left) stayed almost permanently and opened his boutiques in Chora.
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— The diminutive and ever-energetic dancer proved his obsession for Mykonos for decades until the last years when he set sails for other places. Even though Amadeo’s homeland lies in the remote Philippines, the pulsating colours of Mykonos and sacred Delos have been calling him since 1969. The story starts one summer evening in 1971 at Ornos.
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The dress rehearsal for The Children of the Universe musical, which he was working on with a close friend, Stavros Xarhakos, ends up as a wild party, a fascinating melting-pot of people; and a mania is unleashed. The reputation of Ornos beach spreads around the world; and the island, with its energy, rouses even more people, famous or not.
Love stories, extremities, creativity and passion; you can find them all in their memories and albums dedicated to the island.
LEFT: JOHN DIMOTSIS
— He is the son of the legendary Ufa star Willy Fritsch and the dancer and actress Dinah Grace (aka Ilse Schmidt). The German actor, who starred in “Operation Apollo” played a foreign prince with Elena Nathanail, came to island in 1968. He bought a house and was coming to the island. He, however, refused to participate in the remake of the film. Speaking of it in a journal of Berlin revealed that: “Did everything in Mykonos. One night I was with women and one with men and all this without a condom. When I liked a man went to nice beaches, and we lived every moment.”
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YEHUDI MENUHIN — The violinist Yehudi Menuhin had a holiday home on the island which he visited in 1976 after an absence of nine years (he had honourably refused to enter Greece during the military dictatorship). Menuhin was stunned to find Mykonos overrun by 'naked Beatniks of all sexes'. The violin charmer’s house in Megali Ammos was frequented by important artists. When he was forced to leave, he marked his finale with an open concert that brought many to tears.
— Margo Laing used to work for Robert Kennedy’s executive team in public relations and was also involved in the family’s successful hotel business. In 1969, she accidentally disembarked on Mykonos, where she worked with her husband, Andreas Koutsoukos, at Pierro’s. In 1987, they got divorced, and Margo returned to America. “Each year, the number of people increased. I re-
ceived letters and presents from customers from Britain, France, the U.S.A., from all over the world, just to say that they had a fantastic time and wanted to thank me. Mick Jagger, Thomas Fritz, Prince Egon von Furstenberg, Yoko Ono to name just a few of those famous people that I hardly even remember now. But even then, in all the chaos and confusion, it was even harder to keep them straight”. Margot has never returned to Mykonos.
BOTTOM: JOHN DIMOTSIS
MINAS — The man who literally painted the stars (astra)—some tattoo themselves with the historic bar’s logo—had absolutely no family connection to this. However, his creative temperament intertwined with the island’s colour and sparse architecture, created designs and jewellery that—it wouldn’t be an exaggeration to say—have defined its beauty. During the ’70s he set himself apart by creating a particular style of jewellery through micro-sculpture, directly influenced by the Mykonos that continued attracting people who offered kudos with their presence. In 1998, after building his beautiful home, where he entertained important guests such as Keith Richards, he became even more closely associated with the island by opening his famous store.
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— One of the era’s beauties, she became connected with Mykonos at the beginning of the ’60s. She even bought a house in “downtown” Mykonos. The star of “Bonjour Tristesse” and “Breathless” directed by Jean-Luc Godard participated in the cult wave of lighthearted and unprecedented freedom.
NEIL BARRETT — As the catwalk breeze meets the Aegean winds, the independent fashion designer Νeil Barrett lives his own myth on the island of contrasts. His acquaintance with Mykonos freed him from the summer holiday destination dilemma. It seems that Mykonos satisfies all his needs, especially for someone who spends all day designing creations with a healthy dose of minimalism. In the meantime, he stocks up on strength from the mystical energy field of Delos, and enjoys the sunset on the beach and is a devotee of Cavo Paradiso—experiences that may be poles apart but summarise his addiction to the phenomenon that is Mykonos. What is it that draws him to return time and time again? It must be the climate, the air, the rugged landscape, the beaches.
Jackie Kennedy Onassis
— The former First Lady of America had been to Greece on a state visit in 1961. Jackie had been to see the Acropolis escorted by Amalia Karamanlis, had her picture taken next to the Charioteer at Delphi, and had sailed on
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a warship up to Mykonos. Her enthusiastic reception by the islanders lined up at the port for her arrival, the white-washed houses, Petros the pelican, who rushed to be photographed by her side, everyone's simplicity fascinated the star of the Kennedys. She would come back accompanied by her sister Lee Ratzuille. The rest of the jet set would soon follow. Mykonos, undiscovered, remote, magical, was not infested with second class tourists.
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The rest of the jet set would soon follow. Mykonos, undiscovered, remote, magical, was not infested with second class tourists.
ANNA VELTSOU — A true grande dame. She became an attraction for interesting people from around the world, and her house hosted absolutely everyone. Anna Veltsou (second from the left) had an explosive personality, was unbelievably elegant and had a presence that was a real asset for Mykonos.
— After discovering the island at the beginning of the ’60s, he now admits to being a Mykonos denier. He has written at length about the old days on Mykonos; and his anecdotes are unsurpassable: just like his books, “Memories and Alzheimer”, they are references to a past full
of suspense. “The island I loved so much and which, for over forty years, offered me so many joys, so many parties, so many friends. But the greatest things it has offered me are memories” wrote in a past issue of Mykonos Confidential.
GILLES BALLINI — The first time he set foot on the island, despite the raging winds, the rocks and the light were enough to get him to form a lasting contract with the island. “I chose Mykonos for its timelessness and its contrasts. What renders it unique is its ability to integrate
all varieties of life flooding in, while stubbornly retaining its old character.” A blend of mystery and philosophical seclusion render Gilles Ballini even more complex than his paintings. The French painter, who pays homage to the codes of expressionism in
its advanced form, anchored here in 1989, living between Mykonos and the world ever since, given that—as it’s well-known—colours and shapes don’t have a fixed address. However, his paintings do. You’ll find them in the best houses and museums.
/G U L A / The deadly sins balance on the threads of contrasts. There is a serious reason why they develop along death-life, heaven-hell, sin-purity axes. At the same time, however, they condemn the senses to a subdued presence, colourless and tasteless, sleepy. Mykonos stubbornly pushes away privative suffixes and immerses itself greedily in a game that is boldly served in the quality dishes, in the moments you can never get enough of. In an even freer rendition, it is the insatiable humour — as well as the visual bulimia at the sandy beaches, a “look but don’t touch” parade, a body language you don’t have to learn but you must experience.
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Even if you are a Poker Face, you can’t help it but go all in for the tastes of Mykonian restaurants. Place your bets and be sure that you will turn up trumps.
— CHRISTOS DRAZOS
ΤΕΧΤS BY VIVI VO UR TSA
Home made moussaka.
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Agia Anna — With a 30-year history and a recent makeover, this stunning all-day venue features dishes that offer up an authentic Mediterranean-Mykonian culinary experience. Seafood and fresh fish are served straight from the Aegean – oysters, mussels, urchins, crayfish and lobsters await your order in a small natural sea pool, to be prepared before your eyes . —Aghia Anna, Kalafatis, +30 6934499888, saintannarestaurant.gr
A Hotel restaurant — An all day organic experience in a beautiful scenery. Begin your day with the carefully prepared breakfast buffet and enjoy homemade traditional pies and deserts, made of the most natural local products and ingredients. The hotel restaurant, with a rich variety of dishes based on traditional Greek cuisine and local products, offers a satisfying lunch during the day or a nice dinner by the pool, right under the starry Mykonian sky. The original cocktails based on local drinks and spirits as well as the hotel’s extended wine list of local Greek wines give the
final touch of perfection to your meals. —Drakouri, +30 22890 23358, ahotelmykonos.com
Bakalò — Next to a traditional well is located a patio that fills you with a sense of recognizable peace, a delicious heaven you want to share with a select few. Even when full of visitors, the restaurant’s warm, homey atmosphere gives the impression that the kitchen creates dishes bursting with the flavours and aromas of Greece, such as grilled squid stuffed with spinach rice and tarama vinaigrette. Just like dinner on your veranda at home. —Lakka, +30 22890 78121, bakalo.gr
Beefbar on the Coast in Mykonos — Beefbar breaks tradition with the rigid codes of high end steakhouses. Riccardo Giraudi envisioned a destination for discerning carnivores with a modern feel. The concept works on
The game is on with classic dishes and modern recipes. You may play it safe or take a delicious risk. contrasts: unpretentious food yet extremely high quality products. The architecture is both sober & luxurious. These are the general characteristics, but Beefbar on the Coast in Mykonos also breaks tradition with all the other Beefbars, as it is the only located next to the sea. So unique, so different, so Beefbar on the Coast in Mykonos. —Aghios Ioannis, +30 6956600169, 22890 77865, mykonos.beefbar.com
From left bottom: Spilia Seaside is a hangout for fish lovers. In A Hotel Restaurant you enjoy imaginative dishes.
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Bill & Coo Gastronomy Project
Blue Restaurant — Located at Kalafatis beach, the brand new restaurant is the ideal destination for a relaxing dining experience. A paradise of gastronomy, it offers seasonal cocktails, an extensive wine list and a mouthful of exceptional dishes. Enjoy a special lunch or dinner in a romantic and summery setting and distinctive Mediterranean dishes where the
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“art de la table” makes dining truly a mesmerizing experience. With its minimal dining lounge of elegance, Blue is embodied in the high-quality hospitality standards of Aphrodite Beach Resort Mykonos. —Kalafatis, +30 22890 71367, aphrodite-mykonos.com
Catari — Its retro patio has become a reference point for all fans of authentic Neapolitan pizza, the one with the extremely thin crust and delicious toppings, homemade pastas and fresh fish. Groups of friends gather at this old town house that boasts impressive retro tiles, home to the only “Authentic Italian Restaurant” on Mykonos, as certified by the Italian Ministry of Foreign Affairs. —Aghia Anna, Chora, +30 22890 78571, catari.gr
Clockwise from top left: Beefbar on the Coast, Bill & Coo Gastronomy Project, Blue Restaurant
TOP: VANGELIS PATERAKIS, BOTTOM: ©STAVROS HABAKIS
— Here, in this wonderful, cosmopolitan space with the divine view of the ocean, where all the senses soar, flavour is one of the restaurant’s greatest advantages. Aromas, smells and flavours that marry East and West, through the inspired recipes of chef Ntinos Fotinakis, based always on the Greek, organic products of the beloved island. —Bill & Coo Suites & Lounge, Megali Ammos, +30 22890 26292, bill-coo-hotel.com
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Tagliatelle with prawns and black truffle cream.
MIDDLE: JOHN DIMOTSIS
— A restaurant different than all the rest. Why? Because here, the environment has the feeling of a Sunday family gathering and mother’s food. Fragrant authentic Mykonian meatballs, baked chicken, veal with red sauce, giouvarlakia and also, not to be missed, minced meat roll with egg and the divine kapama veal with zucchini. Maivezelo’s tradition is going strong and also does home deliveries! —Vougli, +30 22893 00932
Nesaea — Indulge in a farm to table cuisine in its most creative and elegant version. Nesaea holds a special place on the nice n’ easy team, a restaurant that is inspired by the recipes and ingredients of the Greek islands and offers excellent creative Greek cuisine, with a high standard of aesthetics and appearance. Nesaea is in one of the “secret” spots on Mykonos, in the Kalafati district and has a sparse Cycladic style and a magnificent view. The executive chef Christos Athanasiadis has created a menu with imaginative dishes. —Aghia Anna, Kalafatis, +30 22890 72130
Nice n’ Easy organic Seafood — Boasting incredible views of the windmills and the island’s sunsets, the downtown restaurant of Nice n Easy group creates handmade, outstanding dishes, always faithful to the farm-totable philosophy. The organic ingredients, the menu signed by the executive chef Christos Athanasiadis and the supervision of the chef de cuisine
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Clockwise from top: Nesaea, Nice n Easy Organic Seafood, Maizevelo
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AVG E R I A S TA PA K I —
The executive chef of Principote holds its steering wheel firmly, leading the Mykonos public to the most flavourful waters. —What’s the first thing you do in the morning? My first concern every morning is to go into my kitchen, check the ingredients and discuss any issues that arise with my sous chefs. —Going back in time, what would you like to have changed or preserved on the island? I would like the quality of the people visiting the island had stayed the same. —What do you expect from the Mayor for the island’s prosperity? To have the island’s roads repaired, so that there’s easy access to every spot and afford visitors the best possible service. —What’s this year’s menu based on? As always, the menu is based on Greece with Mediterranean touches. —How has the public changed in recent years? The public’s distribution has changed dramatically. —What has this change led to? The change has led to extravagance and holidays for the “appearances”. —Which factor modifies your sector’s demands in your opinion? One factor that modifies the demands in our work is the customers, the people who come. It’s there that the chef must keep steadfast to his philosophy and essentially train the public to his own wishes. —Pride, envy, lust, sloth, gluttony, greed and wrath. Which do you consider our era’s most dangerous sin? Greed. That’s where all our time’s evils start from. —The most important virtue? Patience. —Which motto expresses you? Whatever can’t be solved, can be cut.
Bet on the sushi bar of Principote.
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sive. The unique blend of Cycladic architecture and modern decoration has created a classic ambience for a superior dining experience. —Kalafatis, Aphrodite Hotel, +30 22890 71367, aphrodite-mykonos.com Dimitris Paterakis consist a successful recipe for fine dining. —Alefkantra, +30 22890 25241, niceneasy.gr
From top: Principote presents a contemporary cuisine. Oti Apomeine is faithful to the traditional dishes.
— With its seaside location on Kalafatis beach, its minimal dining lounge of elegance, its tables and terraced sunset views, Ocean Restaurant at Aphrodite Beach Hotel presents to you the highest standards of gastronomic delight and creative delicacy. Elegant and austere, yet comforting and friendly, the atmosphere strikes a fine balance between accessible and exclu-
Oti Apomeine — A totally relaxing and calm environment, that takes you back to the good old days and the authentic tavernas. The passion for traditional Mediterranean cuisine and the fresh ingredients, produce an excellent result and dishes that make the senses soar. The zucchini balls, the salads, the spicy cheese spread, the pittas, but particularly the roasts and especially the piglet, are famous for decades. Before you leave, try the spoon sweets, with the amazing aromas of local fruits. —Ano Mera, +30 22890 71534, otiapomeine.gr
Principote Mykonos — With respect to the environment and the Cycladic tradition, the venue’s elegant architecture creates an enchanting setting by the sea. Principote is the ideal place to enjoy a sip of mouthwatering cocktails, prepared by expert mixologists, after a refreshing swim in the crystal-clear waters of Panormos. Indulge in the Mediterranean culinary creations of Avgeria Stapaki and her team, who carefully select P.D.O products from all over Greece. Tip: The updated glamour beach boutique and the Cycladic Art shop. —Panormos, +30 22890 77184, panormosmykonos.gr
Salparo — In a privileged spot between Old Port and Gialos, right where the waves break,
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SantAnna — In an architecturally excellent, Cycladic seaside building, the restaurant of multi-space SantAnna functions as a place for relaxation and enjoyment of unique flavours, that approach Mediterranean flavours, through imaginative recipes. Υοu can also indulge in the sushi & raw menu or lounge on the beach. Seasonal dishes are based on the farm-to-table philosophy. SantAnna also hosts events, in the ideal Aegean landscape. —Paraga, +30 22890 25805, santannamykonos.com
Spala — It’s the new creation of the Nice n Easy group, and it came back this year with
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the same philosophy. Organic products, quality meat dishes and premium cuts, are the basic ingredients that the personnel has at its disposal, to make imaginative recipes. As Spala is an all-day restaurant, don’t miss the incredible breakfasts made with fresh products and excess artistry. —Alefkandra Sq., niceneasy.gr
Spilia Sea Side — A well hidden gem for the true lovers of fresh fish who enjoy to taste it in a divine atmosphere. The setting of the natural cave is awesome, with the sea lapping at your feet, while its trademark are live lobsters and sea urchins. It will captivate your interest with seafood suggestions and its “ace” the spaghetti with seafood and shells, while the menu also includes tasty dishes for meat eaters. It also has a perfect spot for your special event. —Aghia Anna, Kalafatis, +30 22890 71205, spiliarestaurant.gr
Clockwise from top left: Salparo's view, Spilia Seaside addresses to meat lovers as well, Spala's grilling technique is exceptional
If you must play, decide upon three things: the seafood, the steaks, and the sauce.
TOP LEFT: JOHN DIMOTSIS
Salparo is the absolute destination for fish and seafood lovers. Try salmon fillet with julienne sauteed veggies while enjoying the live sunset performances. —Kaminaki, Chora, +30 22890 78950
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50 Shades of Purple Caramel, praline, blueberry ice-cream.
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Make it a winning streak of flavors.
P R E M I U M I D E A S
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for you to taste. —Matoyianni, +30 2289 026269 & Drafaki, +30 22890 28246, kayak.gr
Flora — Are you ready for a brand new shopping experience? The minimalist decoration, the DJ’s beats, the largest collection of rare wines and premium labels of the liquor department make the Flora Airport Super Market the freshest, most modern establishment in Mykonos. —Airport, +30 22890 23509, mykonosflora.gr
From top: Flora is your spot for the best quality provisions. Kayak ice cream is the chilling pleasure of the summer.
BOTTOM: JOHN DIMOTSIS
— The award winning premium ice cream & Greek Frozen Yogurt is produced by a leading Greek ice cream manufacturer that has been founded in 1996 by George Stavrides. In accordance with the latest trends in gastronomy and the world’s market place, it has been awarded in international competitions for its taste and packaging. It creates recipes using the most natural ingredients, fresh milk, Greek strained yogurt, cream, fruit and real fine chocolate. From lemongrass to Pescarancio yogurt and from mint choco chips to bio green tea, the most imaginative ice cream flavors are here
greek culinary tradition at its best!
Ano Mera, Mykonos, Tel: +30 22890 71534, Mobile: +30 6944.940309, Email: email@example.com
Mostra combines the local rusks with kopanisti cheese and is one of the island's best known mezedes. 212 | MYKONOS CONFIDENTIAL
Choirosfagia are still a significant "ritual" for the villagers' provisions. Seafood and fish care also added to the local products.
JOHN DIMOTSIS, THANASIS KRIKIS
/ 7 S I N S /
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MOST OF THE FEATURE'S INFORMATION HAS BEEN SOURCED BY THE BOOK ESSENCE OF CYCLADES: PRODUCTS AND FLAVORS OF THE ISLANDS, ETAP -CYCLADIC CHAMBER OF COMMERCE PUBLICATIONS (2015)
the hidden taste of Mykonos from A to Z. B Y V I V I V OU R T S A
— Looking up for the most delicious words of Mykonos, we came up with a vocabulary full of local taste and aromas. Your turn to savor what the island has to offer.
Amygdalota The very popular sweet is made from almond flour, sugar and rosewater. They are either long, thin and cylindrical or almond shaped, baked in the oven and covered in icing sugar.
Bouboulo This is the name for cured tenderloin of pork and is produces exactly like louza. Its etymology is possibly derived from the Venetian nombolo, the Italian word for a prized cut of pork. Nowadays, as most pork tenderloin is eaten fresh, the curing of bouboulo is not so common.
Choirosfagia Pig slaughtering was always an excuse for a celebration in the community of Mykonos with music and dancing. As soon as the preparation of the different parts of the pig is done, a table is laid where various pork delicacies typical of this feast are tasted, such as meat-
balls, the head, the pig’s pluck and so on. The pig slaughtering season lasts from October until Lent.
Dairies Apart from kopanisti, xinotyro and tyrovolia, Mykonos dairy is currently producing quality yoghurt.
Fasoulia Broad beans are planed here but the most distinctive to Mykonos is the brown-eyed bean, a little smaller than the black-eyed bean. The fresh beans are called louvia, generally known as string beans or vine beans (ambelofasoula).
Galatsides Type of greens, usually eaten boiled as a salad.
Kopanisti It is the only cheese produced in Greece using the fungus Penicillium Roqueforti – yes, you got it right, the one used in all European blue cheeses. Its creation was presumably a matter of chance. The peppery, almost burning intensity of traditional varieties -such that the villagers would mic it with pork fat (glina) to tone
The recipe where quinces are cooked in the Greek version of ragout, namely in a rich and aromatic tomato sauce with onions, black pepper, cinnamon, laurel and oregano.
Rafiolia Small cheese pies rolled into a semicircle with zest of orange added to the filling, fried in olive oil and served with honey.
it down when it matured to an “evil” degree- is now a thing of the past. It has now become more “friemdly” and it goes very well with the Cycladic souma (local spirit) and suits a fragrant semi-sweet white wine without ruling out a similar red.
Louza The classic cured pork from Mykonos, it is traditionally made from fillet or tenderloin. It is first put into brine with both fine and coarse salt for 24 hours. Then it is scalded with boiling water, dried and seasoned with oregano, savory, allspice and pepper. If it is hung in a cool place, it will last for several months, but nowadays it is kept in the fridge. It is eaten chopped into very fine slices as a meze, with eggs, potatoes or with raw salad.
Melopita A sweet, syrupy open cheese pie with tyrovolia, covered in thyme honey.
Onionpie The most popular pie of the island made with fresh cheese, tyrovolia, onions and a light dough, has the perfect balance of a slightly sour and sweet taste.
Provasia or sea lavender Used in cooking for flavoring meat. Most popular recipes include kid with egg-lemon sauce and provasia, bacon with provasia and provasochorta to which dandelion, chervil and poppy leaves are added.
Or syglina elsewhere in Greece are made from the upper part of the pork rib cage, cut up with a cleaver and cooked in its fat, along with the bones, with bay leaves and cinnamon (optionally). Once cool, they are placed in jars, covered in their fat and stored in a cool place. Sisera are used to add flavor to food or eaten alone with eggs.
Tyrovolia The most common local cheese is strained through muslin bags. White, soft, unsalted and slightly acidic, it is also the first stage in the production of kopanisti. Traditionally made from sheep and goat’s milk, the modern, commercial versions come from cow’s milk.
Urchins One of the best fresh meze that you can find in a seafood restaurant.
Volites Known as field mushrooms, they are usually grilled and highly prized.
Xinotyro A type of sour Myzithra air-dried for some time in a mold. It varies from soft to very hard, when it is used for grating onto pasta.
Yoras bakery The almost hidden wood oven that has been producing bread for 400 years. It is the oldest bakery on the island located in Lakka district. You will notice it only by the smell of the fresh baked loaves.
Zochi Α type of wild greens eaten boiled, as a salad.
the night Alchemy.
H YDR O G E N
L ITH IUM
C H R O MIUM
A G IA A NNA
MA G NE S IUM
BLUE MARLIN MYKONOS
B Y V I V I V OU R T S A
Chemistry is the key in love, but also in cocktails, fun and the atmosphere after dark -or all day in the island’s case!
S C O R P I O S MYKO NO S
> BILL & COO LOUNGE BAR
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Cv Beefbar on the Coast in Mykonos
CAVO PARADIS O
SO D IUM
S ANTA N N A
— The beach bar & restaurant in Agia Anna Kalafati, gives another “flavour” to the summer nights, and welcomes you with chill out mood. In the quiet and beautiful beach of Agia Anna you can relax early in the morning enjoying your diving and then keep on with cocktails at the bar. This stunning allday venue embraces the nights with the best atmosphere for a dinner and late drinks. —Aghia Anna (Kalafatis), +30 6934499888, saintannarestaurant.gr
OX Y G E N
S ILV E R
— It welcomes you to its 32nd summer proving its classic presence in time and style. Its history has been written in its consistent characteristics, and in its famous guests, such as the rock legend Keith Richards and Monaco’s young royalty Andrea Casiraghi. And it is still receiving great success with its hip music, the rock influences, the special events and fashion evenings which attract among others, Greek and foreign showbiz personalities. —Chora, +30 22890 24767, astra-mykonos.com
— Boasting a select wine and champagne list from Greece, France, Italy and Germany, the renovated Beefbar is your destination for quality drinks and a night full of music and entertainment. Apart from the classic cocktails, what about a BeefBar Sunrise, a Peruvian Soul or a Fallen Star cocktail? Wait, there’s more; you can make your personalized cocktail here. All you need to do is let the mixologists know your favourite flavours and they will design your own cocktail. —Aghios Ioannis, +30 6956600169, 22890 77865, mykonos.beefbar.com
Bill & Coo Lounge Bar — Blend the energy of summer with mouth teasing flavors and quench your thirst with exotic tastes in extraterrestrial scenery. The light and refreshing signature cocktails of Bill & Coo Lounge Bar are served within a stylish, cosmopolitan yet unpretentious and relaxed ambience by the pool. Bill & Coo Lounge Bar prepares an array of cocktails and light snacks, perfect for those Mykonian sunsets with a stunning sea view. —Bill & Coo Suites & Lounge, Megali Ammos, +30 22890 26292, bill-coo-hotel.com
Blue Marlin Mykonos — As if part of a mythical journey, Blue Marlin Ibiza is crossing the Mediterranean to reach the island of Mykonos and ignite the Ibiza spirit at this extraordinary destination on the shores of the beautiful Kalo Livadi beach, hosted
by Aegon Mykonos. Its culinary “performance” includes nibbles and bites for the beach, a rich sushi menu and selected dishes with meat and fish. Its cocktail list is also surprising. —Kalo Livadi, +30 694 311 9944, bluemarlinibizamykonos.com
Cavo Paradiso — World famous for its parties, the most celebrated club in Greece attracts thousands of people to the island every summer that will come to enjoy some of the greatest DJ sets in the music industry, while all party fans wait impatiently for its full moon party in August. Whenever you may visit it, there is always a good reason to celebrate a night full of music and dance. Note that you can choose its new space upstairs to organize your special event. —Paradise, day phone: +30 22890 27205, club phone: +30 22890 27205, reservations of the day: +30 6948504989, cavoparadiso.gr
You may call it a night to remember and yet here is just the regular stuff: drinks, dance and events.
B EEF BAR ON THE COAS T IN M Y K O N O S
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You will experience everything in excess: cocktails, crowds, rhythms and tastes in the superlative degree. Galleraki — Head at the historical bar, with the sea literally at your feet, for the delicious cocktails made only with the freshest fruit. After 29 successful years, Galleraki is widely known for its fresh fruit cocktails and the legendary “Katerinaki cocktail”. Choose your favorite drink from the inspired menu and share your Galleraki moments in the double-storied building with your company and everybody else. —Little Venice, +30 22890 27188
Jackie O' Beach Bar — Design spot. This is the result when island architecture meets fun from many aspects. Extraordinary events, dance music, refreshing cocktails to keep you cool all night long, gourmet tastes and all that in a contemporary scenery that demands a lot of selfies. Feel the vibes of the unique bar, flex your moves on the dance floor and do not forget to visit the Oyster bar.
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—Super Paradise, +30 22890 77298, jackieobeach.com
Principote Mykonos — The beach hangout! Located on the island’s most beautiful beach, Panormos, the already successful Principote creates the perfect setting for an all-day experience, featuring a bohemian chic atmosphere, refreshing signature cocktails by the best mixologists and original dishes inspired by Mediterranean cuisine. —Panormos, panormosmykonos.gr
Queen Champagne & Cocktail bar — And yes, you found the only bar which is dedicated to champagne – and to unforgettable fun. Queen of Mykonos is an ideal setting for enjoying the vibrant local scene while sipping on your favourite cocktail and snacking on delicious appetizers. Queen is a champagne and cocktail bar, a great meeting point to mingle and sip exotic handcrafted cocktails while soaking in the cosmopolitan island vibes. —Enoplon Dinameon Str., +30 6949078018
Remezzo — Boasting new spectacular events, it
welcomes you to a great Greek dinner under the sunset and to the party which always comes next. Then head at the historical restaurant and cocktail bar and make your own unforgettable memories in its renovated and exquisite scenery totally in white. This is a place for the art of entertainment offering special guest DJs and parties for over 170 people in a magnificent spot with stunning views. So, make sure that you will be part of Remezzo’s legendary nights. Polikandrioti Str., Chora, remezzomykonos.com
SantAnna — You have loved it from the first day it “emerged” as a group of individual islands on the beach. Now, you will enjoy them even more with the new stone sofas and the big tables creating an even cozier atmosphere. With the largest seaside seawater pool in Europe, “VIP islands” are the perfect setting to live the experience of top musical events and a line-up of the world’s greatest musical names. Boasting also a restaurant with the Nice n’ Easy organic DNA, a Sushi and Raw Bar Restaurant, an all-day pool menu from its Tavern, inventive cocktails and a boutique with big fashion brands, beauty and spa services, there is nothing that you will miss here. —Paraga, +30 22890 25805, santannamykonos.com
Scorpios Mykonos — A perfect place to gather under a shady canopy for long, leisurely meals that can stretch on into the night surrounded by a stunning sunset and live music. Scorpios encompasses multiple beach areas, a restaurant, a live event space, and ample open-air terraces spilling into the Cycladic coastline. Be part of the sunset rituals, let your “nomad” soul come out and just en-
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S P I L I A S E A SIDE
G A L L E R A KI
tertain yourself at the beach. —Paraga, +30 22890 29250, scorpiosmykonos.com
Spilia Sea Side >
QU EE N CHA M PA G N E & C O C K TA I L BAR
JA C KIE O ’ B E A C H B A R
KR YP TO N
> THE GARDEN OF MYKONOS
BLU E MARL IN
M Y K O NOS
ARG O N
P L UTO NIUM
The Garden of Mykonos
BILL & C O O
LOU N G E B A R
— This aesthetic place previously belonged to the famous Yehudi Menuhin, one of the most talented violinists of 20th century, whose passion and vision for life marked his work and way of life. Based on this philosophy, this bar welcomes you to enjoy every moment on the island. Sit back and savour the tranquil surroundings and breathtaking sunsets while tasting delicious cocktails with fresh Greek herbs and flowers, or trying the award-winning wines and selected spirits. —Despotika, +30 6932545616
UR A NIUM
— Iconic romance! It is not only for the seafood dishes that you will come here. It is the extraordinary scenery right next to the sea which seems magical. When lit, it is as if it came out of a fairy-tale. Ideal for a night out of the box drinking imaginative cocktails from the bar while admiring the view and the location. You may instantly feel like being alone in the twilight, but the music and the dancing will quickly bring you back to the party reality. —Aghia Anna, Kalafatis, +30 22890 71205, spiliarestaurant.gr
T ITA N I U M
S A N TA N N A
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7 sins bar: the Outrider. B Y GEOR GE S OB OLO S P H O T O S B Y J OH N D IM OTSIS AND G. GALATIS ARCHIV ES
— The first Mykonian bar was the one that paved the road of wild nightlife on the island. The Seven Sins, yes, they proved prophetic. The development of Mykonos could not have been perceived by any businessman, at least in the beginning, since later one, when the locals and tourists saw its transformation, they made sure they would lend a hand to speed up the process. Countless personalities of the Greek society as well as of the international jet-set: Irene Papa, Ingrid Bergman, Frank Sinatra and of course Onassis, to name but a few - came to the island and their presence was imprinted on its white-washed walls and its atmospheric echo, which seems to remain intact. The creator? Alex. A visionary man, pleasant and proper businessman, say those who had met him, “he opened
218 | MYKONOS CONFIDENTIAL
the eyes of dozens would-be businessmen of the island”. The bar was simple according to today’s standards, but some 40 years ago, no one could believe that the bar with the wooden lining, the quite a few little framed-pictures and various decorative items would become the center of attraction of the elite. Along the way, Alexander realized that the island could become a mini earthly paradise. Furthermore, many businessmen were prompted by famous Greek singer Sofia Vembo’s cousin, Alexandros to open more similar establishments on the island. Today, it does not exist. But, all those who had visited it spoke the world of it, given that it had that special something more, compared to the ouzadika and traditional kafeneia of Mykonos and of the rest of the Cycladic Islands and of the Aegean. The “7 Sins” – although it is not a bar
anymore, for quite a while now – has remained untouched thanks to Giannis Galatis who has managed to redefine it as a special lieu of museum – gallery and art works.
The bar “7 Sins” was a museum and art-gallery managed by G. Galatis. Countless VIPs had enjoyed a drink there. Alex Vembos, owner of the “7 Sins”, the first mykonian bar.
Alex Vembos, the owner, was a visionary man, pleasant and proper businessman.
Horse charmer and trainer Horse riding Mykonos
Tel.: +30 694 577 8962, +30 228 907 1439 • firstname.lastname@example.org • www.mykonoshorse.com
/ LU X U R I A / When popes decided that the lives of the faithful were their business, they considered everyone sinful at birth (the apple we spoke about earlier). Judgment in advance, in other words, and the smoldering pyre. Dio mio! Lust, however, also ignites the â€œother side of the impulse for lifeâ€?, as Simon Blackburn defined it so pointedly and without guilt. This availability finds itself several nautical miles from Piraeus. Mykonos makes up for its isolation with open horizons flowing under every rock at Houlakia, where, before being built around, was the setting for numerous one-life stands.
.Juliette DRESS PHILOSOPHY SOHO-SOHO HAT COSTUMIER BOOTS BOHO VINTAGE CLOTHING
.Adrian SHIRT BY MARIOS TERIADE ELEFTERIADIS (SANTANNA) TROUSERS FROM PERSONAL COLLECTION HAT COSTUMIER BELT MOON NIDODILEDA (JARDIN OF MYKONOS)
K o st a s Av g o ulis FASHION EDITOR
S t e f a n o s Z aou sis MAKE UP&HAIR: Christos Mazourek (THIS IS NOT ANOTHER AGENCY) FASHION ASSOCIATE: Evelina Lagou PHOTOGRAPHER ASSISTANT: Filippos Margalias MODELS: Juliette (D-MODELS), Adrian (ACE) WE KINDLY THANK FANIS ROUVAS FOR GRANTING HIS HORSES FOR THE SHOOTING (HORSELAND-HORSE RIDING TOURS, +30 22890 71439)
.Adrian JEANS GOLDEN GOOSE (SOHO-SOHO) BELT MICHAIL (AL GIGA MYKONOS)
.Juliette JEAN SHORTS CURRENT ELLIOTT (SOHO-SOHO) HAT COSTUMIER BELT B-LOW THE BELT (PRINCIPOTE AGORA) WING SILVER PENDANT, EARRINGS & WING BRACELET MINAS BOOTS BOHO VINTAGE CLOTHING
.Adrian LEATHER JACKET FROM PERSONAL COLLECTION BLOUSE HARTFOR (SOHO SOHO) SILVER BRACELET & RING WITH MOSAICS KARAT
.Juliette SHIRT LIANA CAMBA (AL GIGA MYKONOS) SKIRT GOLDEN GOOSE (SOHO SOHO) HAT COSTUMIER EARRINGS MADE OF HAMMERED GOLD 18K D.S GOLD JEWELLERY CHOKER FROM PERSONAL COLLECTION BOOTS BOHO VINTAGE CLOTHING
.Juliette SWIMWEAR FK (THALASSA BOUTIQUE, APHRODITE BEACH RESORT) HAT THE KINGâ€™S CLOTHES BELT B-LOW THE BELT (PRINCIPOTE AGORA) BOOTS BOHO VINTAGE CLOTHING
.Adrian JEAN JACKET LEE, JEANS & BOOTS LEVI'S (BOHO VINTAGE CLOTHING) BELT MICHAIL (AL GIGA MYKONOS) CHAPS THE KINGâ€™S CLOTHES
.Juliette DRESS LIANA CAMBA (AL GIGA MYKONOS) HAT THE KING’S CLOTHES BELT B-LOW THE BELT (PRINCIPOTE AGORA) PENDANT FROM PERSONAL COLLECTION BOOTS BOHO VINTAGE CLOTHING
.Adrian JEANS GOLDEN GOOSE (SOHO SOHO) HAT AL GIGA MYKONOS
.Juliette JEAN JACKET LOUIS VUITTON (LOUIS VUITTON BOUTIQUE) JEANS THEMIS Z HAT THE KING’S CLOTHES
.Juliette SHORTS ZIMMERMANN (SOHO SOHO) HAT ZINAG (PRINCIPOTE AGORA) EARRINGS MADE OF HAMMERED GOLD 18K D.S GOLD JEWELLERY BANDANA FROM PERSONAL COLLECTION BOOTS BOHO VINTAGE CLOTHING
.Juliette GABARDINE GARCON SAUVAGE (AL GIGA MYKONOS) LONG SHIRT AURORA ROSSINI (JARDIN OF MYKONOS) JEANS 3X1 (SOHO SOHO) HAT THE KINGâ€™S CLOTHES BOOTS BOHO VINTAGE CLOTHING
.Juliette TOP IRA (ELENA MAKRI MYKONOS BOUTIQUE) JEAN SHORTS DONDUP & BELT B-LOW THE BELT (PRINCIPOTE AGORA) HAT COSTUMIER BOOTS BOHO VINTAGE CLOTHING
.Adrian TROUSERS DSQUARED2 (DSQUARED2 BOUTIQUE) BELT MOON NIDODILEDA (JARDIN OF MYKONOS) CHAIN ME SILVER BRACELET WITH INTEGRATED RING & RUNES SILVER RINGS HARRY MESTRO HAT (COSTUMIER) BOOTS BOHO VINTAGE CLOTHING
.Adrian SHIRT DSQUARED2 (DSQUARED2 BOUTIQUE) PANTS GARCON SAUVAGE (AL GIGA MYKONOS) HAT COSTUMIER BELT & BOOTS BOHO VINTAGE CLOTHING
.Juliette VEST, BAG DASSIOS & NECKLACE MARIA KAPRILI (DASSIOS MYKONOS) BIKINI GUESS (GUESS STORE) HAT THE KINGâ€™S CLOTHES BOOTS BOHO VINTAGE CLOTHING
.Juliette JEAN SHORTS CURRENT ELLIOTT (SOHO SOHO) KNITTED BLOUSE DONDUP & BELT B-LOW THE BELT (PRINCIPOTE AGORA) HAT COSTUMIER WING SILVER PENDANT MINAS BOOTS BOHO VINTAGE CLOTHING
.Adrian PONCHO DASSIOS (DASSIOS MUKONOS) JEANS GOLDEN GOOSE (SOHO SOHO) HAT COSTUMIER
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la cage aux Folles. B Y I R A S I N I GA LI A
— Welcome to Sunset Cabaret, a drag show filled with passion, energy and Dionysian pleasures every night at the Elysium Hotel. In comparison, La Cage aux Folles seems like a drama sketch.
The island of Mykonos accepts everything, filters everything. And nothing more so than the gay culture that undoubtedly runs through its veins, and which perhaps gave the tourist industry that extra boost. If Pierro was mostly responsible for making the island a destination for the LGBT community, then there were others who successfully continued his example. And so, in 1989, Vasilis Houliaras opened the first gay hotel, the Elysium. A philosophic, relaxed and luxurious hotel that does not rest on its laurels. After 29 years packed with suspense and great success, the Elysium reinvents itself and further develops its identity. In a Mykonos where anything goes, innovation is not an easy feat. More so if your target audience is already familiar with avant garde aesthetics
and perhaps even with sophistication, regardless of the fact that ideas considered outrageous today may become mainstream in the future. But Vasilis Houliaras and his partners are not afraid of challenges, or uncharted waters. And Sunset Cabaret is evidence of this, a sui generis show that takes place by the swimming pool, and specifically at the Elysium Sunset Bar. A Dionysian ritual one would say, with an emphasis on expression, boundless creativity, humour and transformation. And so, everything changes when the sun begins to set – while most people are wandering around Little Venice, at the Elysium some other “romantic” souls take to the stage to perform a show that is never the same. With an exhausting schedule that goes beyond the expec-
There are no restrictions when it comes to the inspiration of the sketches and the costumes of the performances
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Wellknown and professional drag queens parade across the stage in expensive costumes, adorned with wings and feathers.
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tations of a hotel performance, this show could easily staged in a theatre anywhere in the world. Lights out, cocktails abound and the audience is anxious for the show to begin. It is important to note that the audience is composed of a mixed crowd and that Sunset Cabaret is not only for gay people; in fact, it has managed to attract a large variety of people who are enchanted by the energy and dynamism of drag shows. And this is because these are extravaganza performances, where the unexpected is the
The program is over the top, but that is its nature: to surprise and make an extraordinary presentation filled with humour and eccentric tranformations
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rule. Well-known and professional drag queens parade across the stage in expensive costumes, adorned with wings and feathers, like a Mykonos version of “La Cage aux Folles”. Divas include the inimitable Vanessa Von Cartier, Gloria Darling, Skyla Versai and Joanne Julian, whose amazing movement and choreography is a sight for sore eyes, while the sensual and sexy movements of Go Go Boys Karoly Vamos, Patrick Cerveny, Nikos Nimo and Din Pappas are guided by tracks selected by DJ Mays. The atmosphere is taken to
new heights by the Belgian Epiphany Get Paid, one of the most famous drag queens in Europe. With her erotic and provocative teasing and saucy jokes, the performer “plays” with the audience, inducting the uninitiated who soon get into the swing of things. And the show begins… where it ends only the night will tell and the audience at Sunset Cabaret will know. Oh, and one more thing… entry is free. For opening hours and schedule of performances contact Elysium hotel. +30 22890 23952.
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Once upon a time in Mykonos. B Y ZA H OS H AT ZI F OTIOU
— As the author says: “everything in life is a stage effect creating an ambiance”, only in this case the stage is Mykonos and Don is the protagonist. Excerpts from Zahos Hatzifotiou’s book.
- Which island is this, Don? - Didn’t we say it was Yioura? - Oh come on, we crossed Yioura two
hours ago. Where did your mind wander this time, my dearest Don Quixotte? – I don’t know where my mind was wandering. The thing I know is that I’m traveling with you to Mykonos of which you don’t have a clue and this can be very dangerous. - What do mean by saying that I don’t have a clue? That I haven’t heard of Mykonos? Everybody knows Mykonos, she replied pretty annoyed. – Oh, that again. Mykonos has ended
up being more famous than Greece. Last year in New York, when I went to pick up my ticket from the Olympic Airways cashier desk, there was an American lady asking the cashier girl: “Is Greece far from Mykonos, my dear?”. – And what did the girl say?. – She didn’t say anything. I said... – Oh, the poor woman, why did she have to run into you? – No, no! I told her that it’s so close they’re trying to join Greece with mother Mykonos. As you can understand, I kept putting her on and said that, inevitably, the capital would be transferred to Mykonos along with the Acropolis. The American lady was so happy and said that if we could manage to annex the Vatican to Mykonos as well it would be very convenient for the American tourists because in one day they could have the chance to see the Acropolis, Saint Peter and Petros the Pelican! – You’re terrible, said Marilena and laughed. It wasn’t her fault! – My dear, when I’m away from home I feel I’m Greek to the bone. Even at home I feel Greek to the bone and, as an original, I swear like a trooper. You’re telling me, “I’ll go to Mykonos with you”
and like a fool I get carried away and I take you with me. Do you know what Mykonos is about? It sucks! – Don, you have either lost your mind completely or you are just wandering with dark evils in it again. – I didn’t lose it at all. When you don’t know Mykonos, it sucks. Do you understand it sucks? It drives you crazy, I don’t know how to explain it to you. That’s why I told you that it’s very naive of me to take you with me to Mykonos for the very first time. I don’t know you. I don’t know what you like. If you like what ninety per cent of normal people like, you’ll ruin my holidays. You’ll be trouble for me and I’ll be trouble for you. You may want waters, green valleys and some basic comforts. Well, there is nothing of that. She was staring at me with her startled eyes wide open. She suprised because I had gone mad and she didn’t believe any of this was true. – How can it be that there’s nothing there when half million people visit the island every year? – Because half million lunatics go every year to get together with the lunatics who live there. She didn’t seem to realize what I was talking about but I kept on indignantly. – Come on buddy, how to explain it to you? Normal people arrive in Mykonos and say: “It’s a nice island but, pal, can’t you find even one tree?” No mister, there are ninety islands in Greece with trees and verdant areas. In Mykonos there is no green, nay, there was. There was a green tree... last year... This year they whitewashed it and now it’s gone. They said it was ruining the snowy-white landscape. People here whitewash the streets twice per week. Do you expect them to leave a tree green? I realized now what mistake I had made to take her with me to Mykonos. What was she doing here? She had adorned her face with a strange, peculiar expression of irresistible meekness that overrode my bad temper. Undoubtedly, my temper was not ideal and I don’t think she would react with the same endur-
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ance to anybody else. She was putting up with me and always with a half-smile of kindness and love... That’s it. No matter how much she denied it, she must have felt a certain love for me. Not big of course, but at least small. What am I talking about? Nothing new or unusual. This girl was looking for trouble. What miserable adventure was she getting into! I’m not the type of guy who is made for love affairs with girls of noble descent. – So tell me about it, Don, she asked again. Since you filled me in on the verdant areas, why don’t you describe the other goods that are not available on the island? – Oh, gladly, wait and see. – Look, Don Quixotte, don’t start, she cut me off. Don’t tell me that there’s no ‘‘underground’’ in Mykonos because it’s
“Is Greece far from Mykonos, my dear?”… I told her that it’s so close that they’re trying to join Greece with mother Mykonos" 250 | MYKONOS CONFIDENTIAL
not going to surprise me. – Who’s talking about underground, dear? I was going to talk about water. About clear tap water, that’s what’s not available on the island. – Excuse me? She said fully startled. – Yes, dear, Mykonos doesn’t have any water. And when I’m talking about water, I don’t mean that there aren’t any water falls. I mean there’s no water to drink and wash with. She looked at me wide-eyed again, as if she didn’t believe me. – Actually, let’s not overact. When weather allows it and the boat arrives with provisions from Athens there’s abundant “Loutraki” table water at four drachmas per bottle. Sorry, I was wrong. Water costs six drachmas. Milk costs four drachmas. “Loutraki” water, apart from being excellent potable water, is great for taking your shower as well. With three bottles of water, that is with only eighteen drachmas, you can take a wonderful shower and remove all the salt from your body. But what we mean by “water supply” doesn’t exist, I kept on relentlessly. – Mykonos has three, newfangled concrete tanks connected by pipe lines to almost all houses on the island. When you open the tap, instead of water you get a whistling breeze that is quite comforting on hot days. Of course, there are days that water runs from these taps. Last year, for example, starting from the 1st of May till the 15th of September, there was water running from my tap eight times a day for one hour each time. I’m not exaggerating, honestly “the house was awash”. She was still looking at me laughing disbelievingly but my conscience was clear so I started feeling disencumbered about the possible delinquencies of the island towards civilized people. But, after all, what did I care if some things on the island were not to her liking? The island was not mine after all! (…)
– Don, the boat is laboring, she said at one point. – The boat is always laboring as we approach. – And why is that, Don? - Because it’s windy. – Oh, and I hate it when it’s windy… At this point I ordered a double whisky and I drank it in silence. – Why aren’t you talking to me, Don? I swallowed my last sip and asked her again to make sure I had heard it right. – Are you serious you hate it when it’s windy? - Yes, that’s right. Is it so terrible? – It’s not terrible. It is tragic though to hate it when it’s windy and be going to Mykonos. – I don’t get it. – It’s windy in Mykonos, dear. In Mykonos it’s always windy. – What do you mean by windy? - I mean it’s really windy. It blows great guns; the Beaufort wind scale may reach eight, nine, eleven. When there is a summer breeze on the other islands, here we have a cyclonic storm. You get it now? – No I don’t. She was upset. – Look, Marilena, my dear, I kept on with a calm expression because, confessedly, I had snapped her head off and she was quite frightened about what she was going to encounter. – Mykonos is an island and as in all islands, there’s a northern and a southern part. The north is windy. It’s incredibly windy; the wind can raise the roof. In the south the weather is wonderfully calm. Unfortunately on Mykonos everything goes on in the north. The town is in the north, the port is in the north, the boat moors in the north and people live in the north. I kept on talking. – The north is constantly windy, with
variations, of course. According to the Mykonos Port Authority storm forecast, issued on the basis of weather instruments, the wind power is measured as follows. First of all: When the wind blows away only the chairs (karekles, in greek) from the beach, the wind is called “kareklatos”. That is, 7.5 of the Beaufort scale. Second: When the wind blows away the tables (trapezia, in greek) from the beach as well, then it’s called “trapezatos”. That is, 8.5 of the Beaufort scale. Third: When the church bells are ringing, then… - Then it is a real disaster, she added herself. Her eyes expressed confusion, fear, childish joy as well. – I don’t get it, why did these people build their town in the part where there’s a disaster going on. – Because you can’t get it. And you shouldn’t ask about anything that’s going on in Mykonos either. People on Mykonos are lunatics and they have always been. They call themselves “lolos”, meaning crazy. Lolos because of the wind. The wind drives you crazy. Did you know that? (…)
– (…) Because, my dear Mrs. Soula, our country aspires to become the foremost tourist destination in Europe because we Greeks want all foreigners not to dare to wash their feet anywhere other than in our country’s blue water. I’m telling you our country has more than one hundred thousand beds ready. Even if you find yourself in Dedeagat- so to say- you’ll find a bed to lie down. So, out of these one hundred thousand beds, twentyfour have been profusely turned over to Mykonos – premier tourist centre of Greece - for the “Leto” Hotel and sixtyfive for the “Xenia” Hotel. That is eightynine beds in total, let’s say ninety, to be
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tiques” on the island. In August, when things with the rooms get tight, they accommodate the most religious tourists whose “deep religious devoutness” becomes obvious by their smell of incense... I missed Soula’s impressions of what she was listening to because in the meantime we had arrived in Psarou and Nikolas, quite courteously, announced: – Come on, get out, we’re here! Manolakis reached for some change but Nikolas, quite tactfully again, didn’t take it: – Let go, you gowk, it’s nothing... (…)
generous. Agreed, my dear Mrs Soula? Sure enough, if we divide the three hundred thousand tourists arriving on Mykonos every summer by ninety, it comes about three and half minutes of sleep per day for each. Beggars cannot be choosers! After all they didn’t come here to sleep otherwise they could have stayed at home. They came here to get washed, to take their baths… We have plenty of water! Sea water of course… Of course, there’s always the private initiative that often saves the whole thing. In the summer every house in Mykonos is turned into a small “Hilton”. Like the “Athens Hilton”, here we have the “Anouso Hilton”, the “Erato Hilton”,
the “Vgenoula Hilton” etc. Mrs. Soula listened with eyes wide open, Manolakis was quiet, Nikolas was indifferent and so I kept on talking. – Haven’t you ever crossed the alleys where the ladies I mentioned before used to sit? You’ve missed the whole thing! They stand at their front door, like large hotel doormen, and as soon as some foreigner passes by they yell in English: – Hullo, want sleep? And if he says “yes” they welcome him saying: “Betide you, go on and get some rest because you look like they’ve cast a spell on you”. Of course, there are also the churches, three hundred and sixty-two in number; exactly the same number of the “bou-
(…) The “trehandiri” (fishing boat) had arrived at the beach in front of the reeds under the taverna and the disembarcation of the six people inside seemed like a satiric burlesque of a “mini Εxodus”. The first to jump off the boat was Athanas (Thanassis), owner of the pirate boat. He was nicknamed “Oui” because his French was limited to that and it was the only word he used to talk with foreigners when he rented his boat to them. Irrespectively of the word’s positive sense, Thanassis always disagreed with them. The second to jump off the boat was Billy, owner of a chain of nightclubs, “Βillys 1”, “Βillys 2” etc. (He also owned a pig farm with forty female pigs.) The third was Apostolis, the “tall guy”, partner of the aforementioned Billy, owner of a barbershop with only one chair. The fourth was forced to get off, Konstantis, the huckster. His entire business hung all over him. That is rosaries, crosslets, wick lighters (otherwise known as fishermen lighters) and lots of other tourist stuff. On the back of his white jacket you could read: “Tourist Company- Headquarters: Mykonos - Hellas”. Konstantis held an original record and no one could beat it. During the last forty years, he had drunk more alcohol than all the other inhabitants of the Cyclades. Therefore it was only natural that he couldn’t get out of the boat by himself. The fifth was Kyriakos, the best ex - merchant tailor on the island. He’s been taking his rest for the last three years. “Once you’ve worked the needle, you need a lifetime to recover,” declared Kyriakos. The last one to jump off and wharf the
boat was Fouskis. Such an unusual personality for a mariner! They say that people from Mykonos are excellent mariners but they can’t swim. Well, Fouskis swims for all of them. Once Fouskis has a nice meal and drunk a entire demijohn, he swims back home. He says he gets tired when he walks. The only thing he’s makes sure of is that the taverna is only two or three sea miles away from home. All of them were between thirty and forty years old apart from Konstantis who’s… countless years old. Marilena was now looking at them approaching the taverna with an expression of the conqueror of the universe. She was trying to hastily psychoanalyse them. And they really looked like they had conquered the universe. But, to be honest, haven’t they? And what’s the universe after all? Everything belonged to them and first of all, the island. Haven’t they conquered their island? Wasn’t the island theirs? Haven’t they conquered people’s hearts, everybody’s heart? Who did not look up to their worthy and strong hands? Who denied that they were the real gentlefolk? But they knew how to take pleasure in everything; the wine, the land and the manliness; really stout fellows. And the sea, oh, this had always been theirs. It had rendered homage to them, since they were kids. It was like mother to them. (…) (…) I was coming back home from the beach road. I wasn’t thinking of going back to Billy’s to see if Marilena was still there. Then again I did think of that, but I preferred to walk alone. As an excuse I said to myself that they had already gone to go to sleep. This would spare me the trouble of those annoying innuendos about when, and if we would sleep together or not. The beach was deserted and the sea was absolutely calm. The boats stood as still as if they were on the land. The sky was perfectly stary and the moon, in its last quarter, was rubicund and inverse. – It’s going to be windy, I said to myself, leaving the beach behind me and entering the alley to my house. I walked distractedly. Suddenly, I ap-
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proached two shadows standing close to each other near my doorstep. I paused. They didn’t hear me. Being barefoot, I made no noise. I must have been thirty paces from them. I paused by instinct because I recognized them. I pulled back towards the wall so that the moon couldn’t shed its light on me. It was the two of them. But how they were! What I saw was a real stroke! I was scared and my hands were totally sweaty. Alexandra was passionately kissing Marilena on the mouth holding her tightly in her arms with her head leaning on the shoulder. I had seen this kind of scene before but not with girls I was afficiated with. My knees trembled. I didn’t know if I should proceed or not. The only thing I wanted was to get away, and not to be seen, as if I was the guilty one. I was afraid they’d hear me and I stayed still as if I was covered with wax till they took some steps further away. Then I ran away like a thief who was almost caught.
(…) – Listen to me Marilena, I said. I’m not in the mood to have this kind of discussion the minute I get up in the morning. So, go and pick up your dear-
“After all they didn’t come here to sleep otherwise they could have stayed at home. They came here to get washed, to take their baths…"
est Alexandra and bring her here so that we can go the beach. I took one sip of my coffee and lit a second cigarette. Alexandra was staying in Philippi’s small house, in room number 1. So, Marilena went to call her and in a while they came back together. In the daylight Alexandra seemed even prettier. She started eying the house and every now and then she let out a “gee whiz”. Not because the house was something extremely nice but probably because she hadn’t seen any other house in Mykonos and she thought that all houses were like Philippi’s room where she was staying. Once she arrived on the balcony that is built over the sea, she gave a yell. – Oh! This is Venice, not Mykonos! – Didn’t you know that this neighborhood is called Venice? I had my reasons to bring Alexandra to see the house. I had a plan and started it up at once. Without looking at Marilena at all, while we were still on the balcony watching the fish underneath, I said to her: – Do you know how to fish? - No, she replied, but I’d like to. – Then you come here to stay, get up in the morning and fish and then you can fry the fish for us for breakfast. They impulsively looked each other. Alexandra had an expression of unhopedfor joy. Marilena’s face filled with wonder. She knew I wasn’t always comfortable to accept one, let alone two, women in my house. – You mean it, she asked me? -Why not? As long as she keeps her room tidy and doesn’t swamp the bathroom all over. (…) (…) We were heading towards Kalamopodi where, according to Stavros’ information, Giorgis’ dragnet boat had found fresh fish. Kalamopodi is an endless beach that the foreigners called “Paradeisos”, meaning Paradise. Fortunately they had not yet put in the luxury restaurants, villas and other grotesque buildings that gradually destroy any kind of beauty remaining on this poor little island. Yet, over the last two years things had become pretty tense.
Wherever there’s a virgin beach, in the nick of time, “as if by magic and overnight” a new building pops up. The structure is officially built to become a pig farm but it ends up a restaurant. This means that in a while the road would be flattened and even in a shorter while there will be a bus stop. Goodbye nature, calmness and the beauty of the landscape. Of course, evolution is pervasive; one is unable to stop it. But, to be fair, we have to confess that in Mykonos evolution takes place, fortunately, at such a slow pace and always to the landscape’s trend for beauty. In the beginning I wrote “jokingly” that there aren’t any hotels. The truth is that there aren’t but they are not needed after all. Large hotel complexes would be suicidal for the island because this kind of hotels serves neither the island’s nor the people’s interests. They exclusively attend the travel agents’ desire to fill them up with groups of low-quality tourists. They book them “per capita” and they bring them from Germany, Poland and America. These people do not leave even one drachma on the island because everything is “compris”. ... A hundred islands have already been destroyed. Why must Mykonos be destroyed as well? Mykonos has its own people coming from abroad, people who love and care for it; people who doesn’t complain about windy weather, the lack of water or hotels. They say “Love your friend and his faults”. There are two categories of people on Mykonos. The first includes people who get sick if they don’t visit the island. Their love and passion for the island grows and grows. The other category gets sick after going there. They just visit the island to say that they’ve been there but they remain sick during their entire visit. They sulk and curse and hate everybody else who has survived the tiny obstacles and enjoy the good stuff you can find on the island. And there’s plenty of good stuff. (…) I got out of the sea and lay down under the sun. Different groups of people of various nationalities were dispersed along the long beach. Poor and rich people in no particular order, whites and blacks in all variations of the colours
God put on people. Face down, I felt free and happy under the hot sun. Of course, for someone who shows up for the very first time, and who’s, anyway, under the age of sixty so to say - the whole thing can be irritatingly interesting. Yet, everything in life is a matter of supply and demand. The same is true here. The supply of naked skin is so great that, after the first impression, after fifteen minutes, even the most sexually - malnourished “Romios”, meaning Greeks, stop staring like a cormorant. The whole picture is so clear, you can only see its bright side. In fifteen minutes you’re undressed, and since nobody gives a damn about you, you are free to enjoy the cool water and hot sun. For the callow ones: be careful of burns on the most “secret” places. Starting from the beginning of summer till autumn, this beach is inhabited daily by 200 - 300 people, foreigners of course, who really enjoy life and nature. I say inhabited because, these people, most of them young, have put their tents there up and live their life this way. Freddy’s small self-service restaurant is a perfect place for those who don’t cook to find cheap food and cold beer. That is to say a special, simple, calm and happy life full of beauty and calmness that nothing can upset. Except… except the fact that some time, luckily not often, the Law gets in the way. The Law! That poor law which, rightly or wrongly, has to make its presence felt. The Law is always the same; procedural, thorough and rigid. It arrives to strike down peccadilloes, even those that never actually took place. In order to strike down the sinner - and the sinner, according to the Law is the naked one - it has to arrest him while totally naked and in the act in order that it can punish him. But how can the Law arrest him naked when the sinner can quickly cover his forbidden to-the-public-sight parts with a towel as soon as he sees the Law coming from afar? Therefore the Law must arrive unseen in order to be effective. Meaning to grab you and take you to Syros to sit upon the bench for your sins. So the Law disguises itself like one of you. In this way you can’t rec-
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ognize him and take precautions. And how does it get disguised? Very simply. The Law gets naked. It gets undressed. Yet the Law cannot strip to the skin because the Law is decent. That’s what it was taught, what it learned from the day it was born, brought up and educated. How can it be that it breaks its oath to the holy rules of morality and decency to be lost to shame the minute it arrives to strike down this effrontery, this sin, this orgy, this Sodoma and Gomora, as it calls the calm life on the beach under the sun? Thus, the Law keeps up the appearance of elementary decency. Meaning first: it wears a bathing costume, a “baniero” of black colour, good quality, wool, a bit or quite baggy, depending on body shape, given that this “baniero” belongs to the Service and that is only worn by the occasional duty officer in Kalamopodi. Even on sand, the Law always wears shoes, black pumps, pointy, with matching “derby” black socks. The socks, when they are “half- socks”, meaning anklets, end in elastic to keep them tight. When they are long, they are borne by a triangular, gray suspender with a garter. This makes sure that the socks are constantly, and decently tight. When it’s very hot, to stay cool, the sock can be rolled down so half the ankle is exposed to the sun. As the Law masquerades as a swimmer, how do people recognize him and have time to cover up? Well, you don’t have to be Sherlock Holmes to recognize the Law in its discrete masquerade! So the Law inspects the beach, wandering through the sunbathing bodies, watching for uncovered private parts and wondering how the hell all these “perverted” people recognize him and cover themselves in time. So, without getting wet, because this is not allowed on duty, and without his milky skin finding time to tan, as soon
as he finishes his inspection gets ready to go home empty - handed. And then, there it is, he says. I’ll get that malignant rat! Indeed, some poor guy has fallen asleep under the sun without realizing the presence of the Law. He returns running to where he left his stuff and uniform and goes back to the innocent sleeping guy jangling a pair of handcuffs. Using the toe of his pump, able to cut an ant in half, he prods the sleeping guy. – Hey you miserable hound. “You”, yes you! You, come on, “to prison”. 12 (…) Actually, we’re a perverted triangle of which nobody could know its final form. Perverted, but why? Maybe yes, in Alexandra’s case, if we take lesbianism as perversion. Marilena, even though I hardly knew her, seemed absolutely normal until the abnormal scene I had witnessed yesterday. As far as I’m concerned, I’m the most normal creature that ever existed. How did I, all of a sudden, fall in love, if we admit that I fell in love with her, with a girl who was definitely a lesbian? And as time went by, then again as hours went by, I fell more deeply in love with her. These questions remained unanswered, while I was lay unmoving under the hot sun. I don’t think anyone could include me in the perversion. Alexandra was a woman, a beautiful one. So, where was the perversion regular people were so afraid of? She likes women? So what? That’s her problem. Mine was a totally different one. That she would never be interested in me! Never! (…) (…) Eventually we finished and the sun reappeared. We ran to the sea. The girls ran in to refresh themselves. I ran to plunge headlong into it to recover from the wine and my thoughts. I had a good mind to keep my head un-
der the water forever. I felt such a relief that I thought paradise must be something like this. As soon as I got out of the water Alexandra stood over me. Without being able to see well because of the water in my eyes, I impulsively reached out and suddenly, Alexandra was in my arms. Touching her wet body was so overwhelming that I lost control. I clasped her to my chest erotically. I couldn’t explain her stare. Was she feeling guilty or confused? I think it must have been both. Yes! There was a guilt in her confused eyes. Now she had her arms wrapped around my back. Stupidly I thought that which was only natural, was fateful. What did I expect? Should the girl have her arms hanging on her belly? Plus, we were in the water and - after all - it was difficult to keep a foothold. That was it. I was convinced I had lost my mind. I was still holding Alexandra in my arms trying to find the slightest indication that would make me understand if she was feeling at least one thousandth of what I was feeling that moment. That moment... Her hands slid off my back and went up around my neck. She nestled me and stuck her wet cheek against mine. I was paralyzed. My bones were dispersed from their junctions. To prolong that moment as far as I could, I leaned and, staying cuddled, plunged in the water. Eventually, we were forced to open our arms to get to the surface. As soon as we surfaced she immediately took a breath and went to swim in deeper waters. Marilena was standing farther away laughing with our ‘supposed’ jokes, and then she left to swim in the deep sea. Funny! Marilena was not surprised at all by what she had seen. Was it really just a game in the sea that I considered something more important? (…)
(…) Undoubtedly, I was deeply in love with her and the most tragic thing was that I wanted her foolishly. The previous night was nightmarish on one hand but, on the other, my imagination was extremely agitated and my desire for Alexandra was so profound that I tried in vain to hide it. As I looked at her naked, standing on the bed in front of me, I felt like the pirates who jump on any women once they set foot on the land after
"There are two categories of people in Mykonos. The first includes those who get sick if they don’t visit the island. Their love and passion for the island grows and grows"
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several months at sea. Once she had drunk the last sip of her coffee, she smiled a happy expression, hopped off the bed and said to me: – Come on, shall we go for a swim? Did she mean, come on, let’s go and have some fun since things had developed in such a way and since we were alone? I confess that one happy and dangerous day had just started for me. Many things could happen today, or maybe nothing. Marilena was very far from us and we had both forgotten her. We went for breakfast to the patisserie “Manto”. Alexandra had two eggs sunny-side up and bread with honey and butter. She was starving. At the table next to us Billy, Tzovanni the doctor, Piperias and Andreas had been playing prefa (a greek version of poker) from early in the morning. – Where are we going to have our swim, Stratis, asked Alexandra? – Join me, said Tassos the caique-owner who was drinking his coffee next to us. Come with me, I’m going to Tragonissi for lobster. – Shall we? Yeah, let’s go, said Alexandra with a joyful smile. Tassos was thrilled to have such company. – Do you dive or not, my beautiful girl, he asked her? – Just a bit, said Alexandra. – Then, I’ll teach you how to dive for crab. Come on, let’s go to Kioukas’ to pick up Nikolos, my apprentice. The three of us took off to Giorgis Kioukas’ coffeehouse on the beach. As we crossed Dimitros Zanos’ funeral parlour, Tassos
turned round yelling: – Hey you Dimitros! What’s the price of cerecloth this year? Is it cheap or not? And the other guy, standing on the table, turned and gave him a huge “mountza” (extremely rude gesture). Tassos laughed. – What have you done to make him give you this gesture? It’s only morning! I said. - Off with him, he’s a dead-liking man, he replied in disgust. - What’re you talking about dead-liking, men? He’s an undertaker. –– The damn guy is an undertaker in coffins, he said in disgust and entered Kioukas’ coffeehouse to find his apprentice. He invited us to sit down with a gesture. He asked the other fishermen if they had seen Nikolos but they replied he hadn’t shown up yet. – Let’s have a first drink, he told us, and Nikolos will be here any moment. Tassos joined us as well. Giorgis Kioukas’ coffeehouse is one of the last beautiful remnants of the kind that fade away, being cut out or replaced daily. Kioukas himself is completely crazy and his shop is a rare species in our days, a remnant of a bygone beautiful period of time. There are only ten side tables, marble of course, and as soon as a client leaves, Giorgis wipes them with a sponge plunged in vinegar. Most of the times he splashes the clients with vinegar, while wiping the table but for Giorgis this was only a detail. He is short and fat. He always drags his pants on the tiles that are covered in sawdust, so it’s only natural that his turnups are always white from the sawdust.
The walls in the shop are remarkable things to admire. There’s no wall to see in there. All the walls have been pasted with posters mixed up with the new and the old “saviours of the nation”. Somewhere between Kolokotronis and Plapoutas, you can see Markezinis’ photo, as the leader of the Progressive Party. Close beside there’s King Kostantinos and right above his medals, there’s the sign of “Yes to the Republic”. Farther away there’s a “No … 28th of October 1940”. Signature: Ioannis Metaxas. Close beside, between Queen Anna-Maria and Kostantinos, they’ve used four rusty pins to stick up Eleftherios Venizelos. Of course, as the indispensable capstone of modern-Greek vanity, they’ve hung Aliki Vougiouklaki holding a bottle of Fix. On the opposite wall there’s Konstantinos Karamanlis and Georgios Papandreou and underneath there’s Kourkoulos on a poster from the film “Abuse of power”. Above it all, you can see a stinky underarm getting washed with “Rexona”. A huge sign declaring “no to communism” covers the opposite wall and from the same nail they’ve hung a Columbia poster with Theodorakis’ photo from the record “The song of the dead brother”. – This coffeehouse shows all of Greece, Alexandra turned round and said to me. I smiled looking at the fourth wall above the place where they put the coffee pots. There was Dimosthenis standing and speechifying in Pnyka with the Acropolis in the background, trying to repair the inflictions put upon the Greek people and in the direction in which he was looking there was another sign hanging and saying: “Same taste. Ηenninger”. (…)
(…) It’s been several years now that I’ve been trying to make it happen in Mykonos as well. Unfortunately, travelers’ first impression is that Mykonos wasn’t finally such a big deal. A deserted half-finished pier, forgotten by God. The port’s dark during the night and earthy during the day, with the meltemi raising clouds of dispersed dust that makes one feel like leaving before you have even arrived. Even if you’re stubborn as a mule and you decide to stay, you have to walk
another half kilometer to reach the city and find someone to welcome you. There were no taxis or telephones. Let it be. Maybe some day people would understand that everything in life is a stage effect creating an ambiance; a nice and pleasant ambiance holding you close or a cold ambiance turning you away. (…)
WHO IS WHO Zahos Hatzifotiou was born in Athens, grew up in Plaka – the city’s old quarters – and in his own words, “lived in neo-classical Athens that at the time looked like the stage-set of a Xenopoulos’ play”; and yet, many years later, he was to hold a ten-year term of office as the city’s Deputy Mayor. In the course of his school education, he attended Makri’s School, the Anargyrio School on Spetses and graduated from Athens Piramatiko School. At the age of seventeen, he fled the invading German army and took to the Middle East. Not many people know of his highly commendable actions at that time, but he fought with the British forces when Tobrook was besieged, with the Greek 1st Brigade at the battle of El Alamein and during the war operations across the desert, and with the Greek 3rd Brigade at the battle of Rimini in Italy. Nor is it widely known that he was repeatedly decorated for bravery and was conferred Military Crosses for Exceptional Deeds, as well as the British Cross of the British 8th Desert Force. He returned to Athens having been promoted to the rank of sergeant major for bravery at the battle of Rimini. He also fought at the battle of Athens in December 1944. After the war, he left for Paris and lived there for eight years. When he returned to Athens, he worked as a journalist for Kathimerini newspaper owned by Eleni Vlahou, to whom he was bound by a long-standing friendship. Also, he was a business associate with Ta Nea newspaper and Tahidromos magazine for twenty-five years. He is the author of 17 books, wrote lyrics for songs by Xarhakos and Zabetas, is a playwriter and also adapted foreign plays that were a box-office success. He worked for television for 25 years.
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/ I R A / If you isolate guilt from anger and its superlative expression, wrath, you are left with an explosion. And below that, a spark capable of leading to the first light of creation. An emotional cosmogony that finds its territorial plasticity somewhere between Mykonos and Delos, the sacred island of the ancients, the commercial centre of the classical era. It canâ€™t be. All this affluence of matter and intellect must have left enough of a mark for the island to now pulsate and expand like a stray asteroid in the Aegean. Heavenly body and spirit or, in other words, the much-talkedabout energy of Mykonos.
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B Y I R A S I N I GA LI A
— Sir Antony Gormley is the first artist to exhibit in Delos since the sacred island was inhabited by humans over 5,000 years ago. His anthropomorphic sculptures scattered across Delos, repopulate the island with 29 iron ‘bodyforms,’ and restore a human presence reminding the controversial works of Gormley through a critical engagement with both his own body and those of others. The sacred island of Apollo, in the middle of Aegean, has been transformed into a platform where Gormley settled his sculptures on a place where for almost four centuries was the epicentre of worship and the treasury of Delian League founded by Athens in 478 BC. By around 167 BC, it became the largest trade centre in the world and a purificated land as the Athenians removed all the tombs; birth and death were prohibited until the sacking of Delos by Mithridates in 88 and 69 BC. Between the island and the artist there is something in common. As the myth holds, Delos became the shelter of Leto, one of the innumerous mistresses of Zeus. Hera, Zeus wife, cursed Leto not to find a stable place on Earth to deliver
the new "inhabitants" of Delos.
Clockwise from right: Reflect 2017, Antony Gormley.
Â© OAK TAYLOR SMITH, COURTESY OF: NEON, EPHORATE OF ANTIQUITIES OF CYCLADES AND THE ARTIST
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The sacred island of Apollo has been transformed into a platform where Gormley settled his sculptures. 260 | MYKONOS CONFIDENTIAL
© OAK TAYLOR SMITH, COURTESY OF: NEON, EPHORATE OF ANTIQUITIES OF CYCLADES AND THE ARTIST
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Clockwise from top right: Shift II, 2000, Ancient Theatre of Delos, Rule 2018, Times left 2009.
her children. That is how Delos emerged, which was believed to be a floating island. Leto gave birth to Artemis and Apollo there and since then Delos became the sacred place of god Apollo. Antony Gormley is a fruit of wandering also. He attended a Benedictine boarding school in Yorkshire and after spending three years in India he returned to London and continued styding art at Goldsmiths College. This nomad artist landed Delos, accessible only by boat, to work on a project that remarks, after a millennia, a new era for the sacred island, as the exhibition on the archaeological site and the Museum of Delos binds together the history and the art, featuring a dialogue through the installation of Gormley. Its name is Sight, which not at all by chance; it vividly expresses the artistic work of Gormley, an explorer of the human body. A fruit of the collaboration between the Ephorate of Antiquities of the Cyclades and the Cultural and Development non profit Organization NEON, Sight features 29 iron "bodyforms" of Gormley made during the last 20 years - five of them were commissioned specifically for the Delos installation. The project was challenging in the sense of the significance of the archaelogical site, a UNESCO World Heritage Centre. Thus it took 18 months for the Ephorate of Antiquities of the Cyclades to formulate a plan for installing the sculptures in a way that would not cause damage to the archaeology. The work brings the physical presence of modern man into an ancient place. Gormley reinterprets the function and purpose of sculpture, transforming the traditional statues and totems of the ancient world into sites of empathy and imaginative projection. The first connection between visitors and the work is established before they even set foot on Delos. Approaching the rugged northwest coast, they catch sight of a silent and still figure (from Gormley’s series "Another Time," 1999–2013), standing sentinel on a rocky promontory at the water’s edge. Further sculptures are integrated with archaeological sites across the island, from the Stadium to the Theatre district and from the merchant stores to the Museum. Antony Gormley spent months in Delos studying the temples and the sacred enclosures, the horizon and the topography created by the wind and the salt. His bodyforms establish a connection with our collective memory, and as the sculptor suggests, “maybe we can connect with something vital we’ve lost.”
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the memoirs of A photographer. P H O T O S B Y R OB ER T M CCABE
â€” This gorgeously photographed compilation of Robert McCabe, together with his narrative, offers a window into how the Greek island of Mykonos looked before it became a popular tourist destination. â€œMy first visit to Mykonos was in the summer of 1955. From the vantage point of those days on that magical quiet island with one 12 passenger bus and a plethora of donkeys it was absolutely inconceivable what would happen over the ensuing 60 years. On the day I arrived there were some 15 visitors on the island. In 2018 on a typical summer day the island expects between 120,000 and 140,000 visitors. So in 1955 here was a small exceptionally beautiful island with its one small aforementioned bus, little electricity, no cars, no motorbikes, no running water, no tractors, no TV, no internet, no airport, no dock, and essentially no tourists. But artists and writers had already identified Mykonos as a spe-
A French tourist photographs a merchant with his donkey, configured for carrying cargo.
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Robert A. McCabe Mykonos 19551957: Portrait of a vanished era First edition: Patakis Publications, 2018 (English edition: Abbeville Press, 2019)
The caiques, the traditional wooden boats, were the link with other island civilizations in the Aegean. 264 | MYKONOS CONFIDENTIAL
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Left: Boarding for Delos. Two caiques left for Delos every morning, returning midday. Right: Chora. Alleys and streets in Mykonos are distributed according to the direction and exposure of the winds.
cial place some decades before my first visit. There were many reasons for this. One was the beauty of the architecture of Chora and its extraordinary setting directly on the sea. Most Choras -island main villages- are built in the hills hidden from view from the sea so pirates wouldn’t get interested. But the Mykonians -either audaciously unafraid of pirates or (excuse me) because they were among the pirates- built directly on the sea - some houses so close that a captain could disembark directly into his living room. There were other unique attractions too: the warmth and hospitality of its people -still so strong today. And the beaches, with unusually fine sand for the Aegean.
And the proximity to Delos, a unique and important archaeological site. And the unspoiled landscape with its spectacular rock formations and its generations of hard-won terracing, created to expand and maintain a family’s agricultural resources. Mykonos was like an independent island principality, with its own culture, its own dances, songs, poetry, cuisine, textiles, architecture, even language. All of this had evolved and been carefully honed over a period of thousands of years, through wars, occupations, drought, and other calamities. You cannot underestimate the isolation of these Aegean islands in the age of sail and how unique and distinctive cultures evolved there. It is not an exaggeration to say that life in Mykonos has changed more in these past 60 years than it did in the prior 3000 years. It was a place with limited agricultural potential, little water, good fishing, and very little in the way of natural resources. It represented in a way an undisturbed example of a very carefully polished self sufficient Aegean civilization. It was living in equilibrium with its land, water, and sea resources, supplemented with revenue from exports and caique trading, and remittances from seamen and emigrants. How incredibly lucky I was to see it in those days when it was still just on the threshold of such dramatic change. A few hours after I arrived I wrote a letter to my parents in New York and dispatched it at the post office, I told them I had found the most beautiful place on earth and even if they came directly from the United States on a ship with the shades drawn and saw nothing else either coming or going that it would be worthwhile to come and see just Mykonos. I know this must sound made up today but it is true. If you don’t believe me I will try to find the letter. I had visited many Aegean islands the prior summer, so I was in a position to calibrate Mykonos against other islands. This year Mykonos is expecting two million visitors. One senses there’s been a huge explosion - an explosion of houses, of cars, of tour buses, of motorbikes, of villas, of roads, of people from all over the universe. That incredible magnificent little village by the sea has become a huge shopping center on the sea, with virtually every retailer you can name present. But where is the bakery, where are the blacksmiths, where are the caiques, and the donkeys? Outside of Chora the land-
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scape is dense with villas. This is progress of its own sort, and the economist in us applauds the enormous economic success of the island, the envy of its Aegean neighbors. History is repeating itself. Delos had been a great and renowned international commercial center in antiquity. Mykonos has today taken up the mantle of its tiny ancient neighbor. The island has reinvented itself as a happy, fashionable place for people to shop, vacation, party, dine, relax by the sea (in €100 lounge beds with an umbrella). They shop surrounded by some of the most beautiful architecture in the world. Yet we know in our hearts that something has been lost. In the period after the war people had already started to move out of the Aegean islands, seeking work on the mainland or abroad. Houses were sometimes abandoned when families emigrated. So development and tourism have saved some island villages from decay and abandonment, and they have given employment to the local population and kept them in place. That has been good. Mykonos has been saved beyond anyone’s ability to imagine. It has been saved beyond recognition. Chora was a place in 1955 that had evolved for the pleasure, economic viability, convenience and edification of its inhabitants. This beautiful place was not built like a new fake ‘Paris’ or ‘Venice’ in Las Vegas to lure tourists. It was conceived and executed by and for its own inhabitants, for its working people, for its mothers, for the elderly as well as its children. The mills were for milling. The streets were narrow and complex for protection. The churches were the objects of faith, of hope, of salvation at sea. It was an authentic and admirable civilization, perfect in its way to serve its residents. In the 1950s you took only real ships to Mykonos, often very old ships. The seagoing high speed buses of today did not exist. You could smell the sea and feel it. You transitioned to shore not as part of a
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Chora was a place in 1955 that had evolved for the pleasure, economic viability and convenience of its inhabitants.
Clockwise from left: Saint Panteleimon Monastery. It appears they are dancing the kalamatianos, a popular folk dance. The twin church of Saint Barbara and Saint Fanourios, door on right. 1955. A view from Kamnaki toward Saint Annaâ€™s beach. Antonis Kousathanas makes a delivery of water in Chora.
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horde emerging from a dark cavernous garage but by leaping into a bobbing tender and gripping a gunwale for dear life as the meltemi’s wild sea spray hit your face. Who could have guessed that tenders would soon be replaced by docks and docks would soon be replaced by ferry ports and that airports would be built and a huge cruise ship harbor would be constructed and that the island would become a super prime tourist and second home destination for Greece and even for the world. What happened to the caiques, those magnificent wooden boats that flourished in Mykonos and whose roots went back millennia? You will see them in these photographs but you will not see them on the island anymore. They were a source of wealth, providing trade and transportation. They were the link with other island civilizations in the Aegean. What happened? Well the EU decided they should be destroyed! Anyone who has witnessed the destruction of a beautiful handmade caique constructed lovingly by family craftsmen in the Greek islands has to feel they are witnessing an assassination. When I look at my photographs today, I feel like an archaeologist might feel when she or he has uncovered some carefully wrought object from the past that illuminates the history and mores and life and ethos of a long ago era. The photos feel to me like precious relics. Our goal for this book is to offer a record of just a few years in the history of Mykonos - but extraordinarily important years because they were the years when the island still maintained its ancient culture and traditions and economy. They were the years just before tourism changed the face of the island forever. I heard on that late July day in 1955 there was a festival at a monastery outside of the main town. It was in fact at the monastery of Saint Panteleimon in Marathi but for years I thought it was in Ano Mera. The only explanation I can offer is that perhaps instead of walking to Marathi I took a bus, and that bus might have been labeled “Ano Mera Monastery”- as was in fact the bus of the period. The roll of film I took is one of my favorites. You will see most of the 12 exposures in this book. We know that inspiration is an important ingredient of photography. In this case there was double inspiration: a saint’s name day festival and a baptism wrapped into one. There was an added ingredient as well, a liq-
uid ingredient. The priest and host for the occasion was Vassilis Athimaritis, an exceptionally kind and hospitable man, and he was determined to make me feel at home (I was the only foreigner present, although mysteriously the monastery was flying an American flag when I arrived.) Father Vassilis was continuously handing me full glasses of wine! Luck was also a factor that day. I often think that if I had had 8 models for a day and took 1,000 exposures, I would not have captured the dancers. It was the only shot of dancing from the roll. It is one of my favorite photographs. I have returned to Mykonos many times over the past 60 years to attend weddings, to see our friend George Derpapas, and to show visitors to Greece around the island. (...) The wonderful thing about photography is that it provides a true historic document of a scene or activity and at the same time offers the photographer an opportunity to present some interesting or artistic elements in a surprising or fresh way. It is sad that this year’s two million visitors cannot have the experience of Mykonos in 1955, the experience of an ancient authentic Aegean civilization. Fortunately we have Chora with its architecture fundamentally intact. This is a treasure of incalculable value. If these photos can help a visitor or a grandchild of the island relive or imagine some small aspect of the island’s earlier life I will be happy”.
Clockwise from left: A group of fishermen, unload their nets on the beach of the Kampanis quay, Dimitra Fatourou and her niece Kikki Messenezi. They are near the Messenezi house. Deck Class on the Despina. A French couple pause to take a photograph in front of the mill of Yeronymo on a windy day.
Mykonos was like an independent island principality, with its own culture, its own dances, cuisine, architecture, language.
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a hampton Cottage in Ano mera. E X C L US IV E E X C E R P T FROM M ICHAEL SK AF IDAS' BO O K "A HAMPTON COTTAGE I N A N O ME R A" TO B E PU BLIS HED NEXT YEAR.
— The story of Mykonos begins like the tale of Macondo, the imaginary island Gabriel Garcia Marquez had to invent so he could tell the story of his troubled Colombian land in One Hundred Years of Solitude. It begins with outcasts and sinners who came to a strange paradise for the day and stayed for a lifetime. When I was younger, I loved hearing tales about travelers who had landed here out of nowhere from older locals, such as Kostas, the occasional fisherman who was also our gardener, because one cannot entirely rely on fishing for a living in a place ruled by the wind. The rare calm mornings I could get up so early, I put on my shorts in a hurry, ran to his place and climbed on his beat-up pickup truck. Following a fisherman at dawn is the joy of anticipation of what lies ahead at the shore. By 5:30AM we
were descending the frightful road to Tigani, an eastern remote seashore where Kostas usually spread his nets the night before and kept his dink. Every time I went there was a different story, my bribe for keeping him company. Kostas had the gusto, the memory and the looks of a Mykonian Zorba who boomed in the presence of an applauding pal; he delivered his stories with a Homeric intensity and he always made it sound as if he were actually present a few thousands of years ago when, say, the superman of Greek mythology, Hercules, defeated the Giants after a fierce battle. “Look at the testicles of the Giants,” Kostas would cry out pointing with his finger towards some massive testicle-shaped rocks on top of a cliff, luminous and alive under the newborn sun. “Their balls literally petrified out of fear in the sight of Hercules, then they croaked and formed this island.” Kostas did not know how to read or write, eve-
Like a strange paradise. Photo by David LaChapelle’s Good News, Part II (Taschen Publications)
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The sheep and cows living in the neighboring fields in Ano Mera were not scared of us, they jumped right over the litharia, the short fence made of rocks built around rural Greek houses, and headed for their dream dining room.
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ry time he needed to sign a document or go to the bank in town, he always summoned his younger brother, but he had learned the stories by word of mouth. “When we were little,” he recalled, “after a hard day of work in the fields or at sea, my siblings and I would gather in the kitchen and, while my mother was tending the food in the fire, we listened to my grandfather’s stories. That was our education and entertainment.” There are as many tales about the origins of the first comers as there are rocks on this island. But in truth, no Mykonian grandpa ever knew exactly who arrived here first. Was it the Phoenicians and later the Achaeans or was it the Persians? Kostas wasn’t sure either. His earliest recollections of tangible strangers arriving on this lotus island were the persecuted gays who, like the incestuous Ursula and Jose Buendia in Marquez’s novel, fled a disapproving mob after the end of WW2 for a tolerant place that allowed them to live unpretentiously in the summers. Then came the adventurous housewives and businesswomen, some of whom Kostas knew well because he had worked for them. Many of them arrived single, determined to enjoy hot bohemian summers. They were English, American, German, Dutch, you name it. They didn’t all come seeking for romance, as the Shirley Valentine stereotype goes, they just came because it was beautiful, different and welcoming. People forget today that before Mykonos got a reputation as a gay island it had always been a women’s island. Mykonian women survived on their own while their men took off for Athens or other wealthier islands in search for work during the years of unimaginable poverty in the last century. In the absence of men
Mykonos turned into a Cycladic Penelope’s loom, an island of women weaving to dress their children, tending the dry land to eat and waiting for their men to return. When foreign women finally arrived during the tourist era there was nothing foreign about them. They were welcomed and embraced by their fellow Mykonian women like kindred wanderers who had finally found their way back home. The Mykonian women called them by their nationality to distinguish them from each other: the amerikana, the gallida (the French woman), the germanida (the German woman) and they spoke to them fast, hardly ever realizing their new friends could not understand a word of Greek. The first amerikana Kostas ever saw was Jackie Kennedy. He was there, a tall lad standing among the curious crowd, when she appeared on the Mykonos seafront in 1961, smiling and posing for the photographers next to the pelican. But the most memorable amerikana he would meet about two and a half decades later, when a New York florist came to him with an unusual request to create a garden for her in her arid newly purchased land in Ano Mera. There were not that many American women, if any, owing a house in Ano Mera in the 1980s. Mary Louise was among the first, perhaps the only New York florist who ever settled in this ancient village of the driest island of the Aegean with the rather eccentric plan of having a draught-tolerant garden made from scratch. She knew his younger brother and that’s how Kostas came into the picture. Like most of the villagers he called her Maria and took on the task. It took years for the garden to grow and it wasn’t easy. Kostas often exasperated.
When the strong meltemi (the persistent summer northerly that can easily blow away a car’s open door, let alone a rose) came, Kostas would arrive anxiously determined to save his newly planted geraniums, lavenders, roses and bougainvillea like children trapped in a burning house. He would run back and forth like a fireman fighting invisible flames moaning and talking to himself: “She wants a garden! You can hardly stand against the wind here, and she wants a garden!” But the calm days his smile appeared as rosy and sweet as the roses and the tomatoes he had planted. “Come and see, Maria, the tomatoes and the eggplants are almost done!” The difficulties made this garden even more appealing. A garden – her garden - gave Maria a sense of permanency, a Greek root if you will, in this place she had visited once upon a time in the 1970s for a week and ended up staying indefinitely. She was letting a simple room every summer at Anastasia’s Rooms in town for years until the idea of becoming a true local dawned on her. I am buying a house, I am settling, I am making a Greek garden! She bought the house by phone from New York having seen only photos of it. Buying land in pre-digital Greece bestowed a foreigner with a sort of a Greek residency, the sense of formally associating with a romanticized culture and an instant promotion from tourist to local status that some visitors craved for. Even Jackie, out of all Greek places Ari had shown her, wanted a house in Mykonos, and she would have surely built one hadn’t Onassis divorced her with this kind of money Jackie could have bought half the island. Up until the late 1980s, when Maria came to Ano Mera, Mykonian land was still cheap, though
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Beauty and the sinners of the digital era. Photo by David LaChapelle’s Lost + Found, Part I (Taschen Publications)
the experience of closing on a house in Greece could be complicated and bewildering for a foreigner unless she spoke Greek. Thereupon I became the official translator in this laborious transaction between the former owners of the house, the family of a local fisherman known to all strictly by his moniker the Wild Man, and Maria, known to the village people as the amerikana. It felt more like an earth-shattering intercultural wedding between two families than a real-estate closing. The amerikana not only was buying Mykonian land; she was buying the peasant house the Wild Man had allegedly built with his own hands. That called for a week’s celebrations that Maria was totally unprepared for. We were invited to long lavish banquets hosted by the Wild Man’s clan and we sat over long dinner tables stuffed with fresh lobsters, sea urchins and red mullets caught earlier that day and brought in straight to the taverna from the Wild Man’s kaiki. Our embarrassing secret was that Maria hated fish; the mere smell of it made her nauseous and she would spend the entire time agonizingly and discreetly trying to pass all the fish of the world the
Wild Man kept filling her plate with onto my own dish. “Maria, you are not eating enough lobster, have more wine,” the Wild Man pled. By the time the rehearsal dinners wrapped up I couldn’t look at another plate with seafood. After she finally had the closing, we went home -that’s right home-, she lit a Tareyton in the patio and looked at the barren yard. “I want a garden,” she said. “And we need more furniture. I know exactly how I want this house to be.” It was snowing in New York the night she told me. I remember because I was trying to study for a midterm, hoping that the snowfall would develop into a major storm so the college campus would shut down indefinitely, when the phone rang. “Come over I’ve got some photos to show you.” I lived in a cozy shack at the far end corner of a greenhouse in her business property on Eastern Long Island a couple of miles away from Huntington, NY. As a good family friend, she had promised my Greek mamma she would take care of me until I get on my feet -it was my first year in college, first year in America! I watched the snow piling up on the glass
roof of the greenhouse and as it kept falling, I grabbed my coat, got to the car and drove to Maria’s house a few yards down a small country alley. In March 1988 the digital age still belonged to the science fiction sphere. The Kodak photos, sent by Kostas’ brother who knew the Wild Man, had landed in her mailbox earlier that day. We inspected them with conspiring eyes quietly in her kitchen while everyone else was asleep. We saw a two-story farmhouse, photographed through various angles, with no sea view, but surrounded by lovely fields that, as we would discover the next summer, turned magnificently golden at sunset. The place looked like a dream. It was an unremarkable structure, simple, square and functional, but the meadows around it and the rural setting, so unlike the beach fronts that everyone went for, made it seem special and idyllic. The thickening snow out of the window made us beg for it. Mykonos was our common passion and the kernel of our friendship; we had met there through Maria’s daughter Karen who briefly lived in Mykonos, and we never spent a summer away from it even long after Karen stopped coming. The prospect of spending next summer, and many after that, in a farmhouse in the most pastoral part of Mykonos only minutes away from our favorite Elia beach intoxicated us! We drank to that and the next day she committed to the house over the phone and wired the down payment. And the day after that we were off to the stores for furniture and home stuff to be shipped in a container. There were no furniture stores on Mykonos yet, as much as there were no private phones, supermarkets and real estate brokers. The best way to find a house was to simply talk to your
local friends! No one knew about it, except for her daughter and me, plus we had taken an oath not to tell anybody in New York, especially Maria’s second husband. It was meant to be a secret aspect of summer privacy that her lawyer husband would not have found amusing. Because of Mykonos’ reputation as a liberal island, many upper and middle class married American women preferred to go there alone. Some traveled with their gay friends as a camouflage for their own affairs. Some just liked to be alone. Some single ones, girls like Sandra and Margo who had come from all the corners of Jackie’s land –Margo had even left the PR office of Robert Kennedy to settle for the joys of Mykonos- were regarded by the locals as American princesses because they married to local royalty, Stavros and Andreas, respectively, the owners of the most popular 1980s bars on the island, The Anchor and Pierro’s. Maria liked hanging out in both places and it was the unrivaled Mykonos fiesta, in which she partook like an American queen dressed up to the nines, that she feared her workaholic – the word anal was not widely used then - husband wouldn’t get. “If I tell him I got a house in Mykonos he’ll be on the next plane to Greece out of curiosity, but he won’t get this place because he is one of the many Americans who don’t know how to take a real vacation,” she had told me. “He will hate everything I like in Mykonos because life here is so different. No one eats before 10pm! I would end up miserable and bored to death trying to keep him happy by having dinner at six and going to bed by 10. No, thanks. He better never find out.” And he sure did not till he died, long after they were divorced.
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People forget today that before Mykonos got a reputation as a gay island it had always been a women’s island. She didn’t say it the day of the closing, puffing her Tareyton at the patio, but she had the Hamptons style in mind. And so, the house in Ano Mera the Wild Man once built was transformed into something no one had ever seen before in this village. It gradually acquired a lush garden and a floral Laura Ashley interior aesthetic that caused a jaw-dropping effect on people visiting us. Wooden duck door stoppers allowed the wind to whirl through the open doors in and out of rooms full of roses and magnolias, eggplants and carrots imprinted on any imaginable surface, from curtains, sofa fabrics, comforters and bed sheets to lamp shades, plates and coffee mugs. Our New York visitors immediately recognized the irony of a Hampton cottage in Ano Mera. Our Athenian guests expressed a mild disbelief at such an unmykonian million-color living space at a time when the Cycladic white chic dominated the 1980s Greek architecture and interior design. Everything had been shipped from places like Bloomingdales and Bed Bath and Beyond in New York except for the white-framed beds that my mother had sent in a hurry from Athens. It felt home just as it was, even before the furniture came. I don’t recall Kos-
Next page: A different aspect of getting closer to nature. Photo: The First Supper by David LaChapelle (2017)
tas offering an opinion on the Hampton thing, unfamiliar and unimportant to him as it sure was, but he understood how such an ineffably floral interior ought to be matched with a worthy garden. The garden works disrupted the summer calmness. Making a garden from scratch resembles building a house from day one. The clamor, the commotion, the dusty sacks of cement and topsoil! Once the truckloads of topsoil were delivered Kostas built the garden walls with the pride of the good builder he was (a few years later he made the Annex, as we called the small guest house he built alone on the back of the house). He carefully planted a hedge around the walls before he laid the topsoil and started planting the “Mykonos trees,” as Maria called the local trees known for their endurance to the harsh elements. Then came the bougainvillea in front of the main entrance, a purple climber that loved the heat as much as curling nude bodies enjoy it on the beach. Every day, every week, Kostas would come back to plant more baby geraniums, marguerites (daisy like chrysanthemums), lavender and place new strategic blockades to keep animals away. Unlike the elusive deer of the Hamptons, the sheep and cows living in the neighboring fields in Ano Mera were not scared of us, they jumped right over the litharia, the short fence made of rocks built around rural Greek houses, and headed for their dream dining room, Maria’s garden. The Mykonian land mirrors the dryness of the sky, it gets green very briefly in the spring after the rains, if there is any rain, and for the rest of the year it maintains its stubborn resistance to fertility. For all these flowers to blossom it took the energy and the resources of a
small park in New York. That’s when Maria started getting huge water bills, water being the rarest and most pricey luxury in the Aegean Sahara, especially back then when the desalination plant and the two big water reservoirs of the island were still in the making. When most of Kostas’ infant plants died after excessive rainfall led to a big flood the following winter, he took it personally – plants died of dryness on Mykonos, but his drowned in an excess of water; was that God’s idea? Even if it was, Kostas defied it. He replanted them the next spring after he put a bamboo-wall in the back of the house. When the fierce wind came the bamboo-fence tamed it and filtered it. The meltemi squeezed through the rustling bamboo leaves in disciplined dosages, petting instead of attacking the plants and at night it produced a swooshing sound that lulled me to sleep. I learned there were male and female olive trees thanks to Kostas and Maria, and I was surprised I never heard that before even though my parents had inherited a five-acre olive grove somewhere in the mainland –“You had to go to Mykonos to find that out for all of us,” my mother joked when I told her. Kostas planted the first male olive tree the second summer and a few years later it, or should I say he, was already producing olives. A friend of ours from Athens, brought him a mate and planted with her own hands a female olive tree nearby. Then came the peach, pear and loquat trees; the mimosa tree, the aloe vera, and of course the mosquitoes which found a permanent home around the moisture of the evolving garden. Window and door screens went up urgently. Back then there were no professional screen makers on the island. Ma-
ria had to order them at a carpenter who took forever to make them, and until he installed them no one was allowed to even crack open a door or window because Maria could go to war alone and defeat armies of Vikings, but it took a tiny mosquito for her to retreat and run away like a wounded amazon. “Women!” Kostas laughed and teased her. By the third year Kostas’ work had come to fruition. Friends from all over were invited to plant their offerings. Stavros, the electrician, planted grapes right outside my bedroom window that in time developed into a lovely tiny grape yard, sheltered in between the bamboo-fence and fruit trees. Maria planted more olive trees (I stopped inquiring about their gender), and when she sold her florist business in New York in the mid-1990s and started spending nearly half a year on Mykonos she took over the care of the garden from Kostas. She added red geraniums beside the pink ones, planted lots of pink and white bushes along the wall of the neighbor and large grass plants that took her forever to get them out of the ground but once they did come out, they grew enormous. Finally she planted two palm trees which later both died, one because of flood, the other of a bug from Egypt. A garden, I learned from all these years in Ano Mera, is nothing but a miniature of humanity, life and death transform it daily and yet at the end of the day it always left me with the same magical impression that nothing bad had ever happened to it while I was on the beach. As though no one had ever struggled to rescue the deceased palm trees or to save the “Mykonos trees” that kept dying, because Kostas forgot to tell Maria that she had to trim them every couple of years.
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The adventure of gardening in a dry, often hot desert-like summer climate consumed her with the same intensity her business once did in New York. She would get to work – watering, tending needy plants, burning dead bamboo before the wind picked up - as early as 5AM before the sun got to a scorching point. Maria stopped going to the beach or out at night reserving every spurt of energy for the garden; keeping up with it defined her Greek life from the day she would arrive in early April till she went back to the States, usually in October. Clearing through the winter garden mess in April became an extreme sport for her. Kostas was not around anymore, his health was frail, and she refused to hire someone else. After all, she had been a florist all her life and the challenge of taming an Aegean garden, so different and idiosyncratic from her experience with gardens on Long Island, maintained her purpose on an island that was growing increasingly noisy and commercial beyond the gates of our house and the serenity of its garden. I took the happiness of this garden for granted. The olive trees would have been almost thirty years old when Maria decided to sell the house because it was too much work. She was still ro-
bust in her late 60s, but she wanted out and she did not like the idea of hiring people to do what Kostas, long dead, once did. With the passing of years life in the house in Ano Mera had evolved into a state of desirable summer solitude that the presence of gardeners and keepers would spoil. Except for her garden, quite frankly, there was not much else to keep her here. Even Ano Mera, the last Mykonian fortress of immutability that once captivated the body and soul of the amerikana, was falling victim to the vicissitudes of rogue commercialization that deformed most of the island. Before you know it, somebody builds an Airbnb hotel next to your garden in the middle of nowhere, as it sure happened to us right before Maria decided to sell. In a logical turn of events the Wild Man’s family bought back the house. The Wild Man was long gone, killed in a freaky fishing accident, and the family planned to expand the Airbnb business. The closing went through unceremoniously this time, Maria got her money back, watered the garden one last time and left for Florida as swiftly, and as enthusiastically, as she had come in from New York the year Reagan was still president. I stayed behind, in a new summer home
nearby, often pondering and imagining the pleasures, and secrets, and moments of summer bliss the Airbnb guests would know by the olive trees, the lavender and the geraniums Kostas and Maria once planted. The garden had watched me growing and I watched it back. Now there would be new faces around it, yet the story would go on until one day no one could tell how old the olive trees were; and that’s the ultimate reward for a good garden, eternity. But sadly my story ends too abruptly here. Perhaps you already guessed it – Maria had, and she didn’t tell - but I hadn’t. One of my rituals after the house was sold was to drive by as soon as I arrived from the States each summer on my way to my new home and check on the garden from the street. Were the olive trees any taller this year? Any winter casualties? Any new plants? But this year I saw a pool planted in the place of the garden. In a state of disbelief and denial I pulled over to have a closer look but then I thought it would be totally pointless and unhealthy to step out, there was nothing to see except for a senseless pool, and I sped forward. Uprooting a garden, burning its plants like trash in a windless day, ripping out trees to make room for a pool are all part of the falling action of
my tale, a conclusion that explains what Mykonos has become. Unintentionally, while still in the car processing what I just had witnessed, the lines of a Kundera novel I often teach at the university in New York came to mind: “When Odysseus woke on Ithaca’s shore that morning, could he have listened in ecstasy to the music of the great Return if the olive tree had been felled and he recognized nothing around him?” And so the story of Mykonos might end as it began, like the story of Macondo, in a state of oblivion and mayhem. It seems there is an intricate parallel of selfdestruction in both narratives. After Jose and Ursula in One Hundred Years of Solitude were gone, after the hordes of progress uprooted the deeds of innocence and beauty, Macondo, Marquez tells us, evaporated like “a fearful whirlwind of dust and rubble.” It was “wiped out by the wind and exiled from the memory of men.” The story of a former paradise flattened by greed and corruption in the maelstrom of unhindered progress cannot be understated. I cannot imagine the day Hercules and the Giants, gardeners and amerikanes, olive trees and pristine beaches will be exiled from the memory of men. And yet, here I am writing about them in the hope that they won’t be forgotten.
WHO IS WHO Michael Skafidas is a writer and professor of comparative literature at the City University of New York. He writes for the US edition of the Huffington Post and the Los Angeles Times Syndicate. His features have also appeared in most major European newspapers and magazines. He lives in New York and in Mykonos.
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B Y GI OR GOS S OB OLO S
— The anatomy of a murder that shocked Mykonos 9 years ago: Police reporter Giorgos Sobolos unravels piece by piece the tragic murder of wealthy Mykonian businessman Mimis Zouganelis. On the afternoon of Wednesday, October 6, 2010 the blood of the niece of Mykonian bon-vivant Mimis Zouganelis curdled when with the help of a police escort she entered his house and found him dead in his bedroom. Robbery was the apparent motive for the attack. The safe of the celebrated businessman, which - according to his family’s estimate - contained expensive jewellery and at least 2 million Euros in cash, had vanished, along with tapes from the house’s closed circuit TV. Mimis, as he was known among his closest friends, was lying dead in a pool of blood, with multiple injuries to his head and body. The inhabitants of the island of the winds could not believe that their friend, the brother of Makis and Aliki Zouganelis and owner of the historic bar, the Paralos, had been murdered in such a brutal manner. Police officers quickly concluded that somebody close to the victim was behind the crime. And they were not proven wrong. HIS IMMINENT TRIP TO THAILAND WITH MARGARITA The 73-year-old businessman was planning to go on a trip to Thailand with his partner, 28-year-old Margarita, only a few days after the murder. Their plane tickets were already paid for and they had also booked a hotel. But fate had other plans for the owner of Paralos
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crime and Punishment. and other well-known Mykonian venues. A tape retrieved from the CCTV of an adjoining building revealed that the 73-year-old was murdered by two men and a woman. The footage shows the figures of two men and a woman attacking the unfortunate man, knocking him on the head and carrying him inside. The cleaning lady, who visited his house at least once a week, called at 5 pm on October 6 in order to carry out her duties. She spotted blood stains at the entrance and went on to discover more on the stairs leading to the main door of the house. She immediately contacted Mimi’s niece, who in turn notified the police. MIMIS’S PARTNER BEHIND THE MURDER The first person sought by the police was his then partner, a 28-year-old Pole named Margarita. For three years Margarita had enjoyed a lavish lifestyle, since Mimis was known to live to the fullest, enjoying his great wealth, and always looked after those close to him. Margarita disappeared shortly after the murder, but had the misfortune to be noticed by a port officer while boarding a ship that was on a scheduled sailing from Samos to Piraeus, together with two young men whom he had never seen before. Cameras at the port of Rafina also recorded
them getting off the ship. Her disappearance raised suspicion among the police. They immediately discovered that she had returned to her birthplace, but waited for forensic results in order to prepare the strongest possible case. When the footage from the camera in the adjoining house was examined, it revealed that the young woman was one of the three individuals who attacked the 73-year-old. Time was now counting down. During a series of investigations, the police gathered tapes from 14 more CCTV systems located in various regions in Greece, showing that the three accomplices were trying to flee the country. Police officers learnt of the money that Mimis Zouganelis was keeping in the house from the victim’s brother. “When he retired, he sold off all his assets and placed his money on deposit in the bank. Then, at some point, he told our sister Aliki that due to the country’s financial situation he had begun to gradually withdraw money and placing it in his safe. It is obvious that the perpetrators were after the money – what else? My brother did not have enemies”, said Makis Zouganelis. A PREMEDITATED CRIME The crime that has stirred the island as never before had been planned for a long
time. This at least is what the police discovered from their investigations and the testimony of the victim’s 28-yearold partner. Margarita sought help from a friend in Poland: 31-year-old Dominic Grzecsorzko. She explained to him that she was involved with a man who had a lot of money in his safe at home and that with his help they could steal it and flee the country. The 31-year-old Pole, together with his 27-year-old friend Mateusz Szulewski, did not hesitate for a moment and they immediately left for Mykonos. His car had been recorded by cameras at the border station of Evzonoi crossing into Greece on October 4, one day before the murder. Everything was going according to plan. The two men met the 28-year-old woman at the port and they headed for the victim’s house. CRUEL AND BRUTAL TORTURE Unaware of what was about to happen, Mimis returned home. Just as he opened the front gate, he was dealt a blow to his head by one of the two men and fell to the ground. The two perpetrators took turns delivering heavy blows to his face and managed to disable him. They tied him with string and carried him from the ground floor to the first floor terrace, where they in-
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flicted sharp wounds on his body. According to the testimonies of both the girlfriend and the third perpetrator, the 31-year-old man hit Mimis on various parts of his body, while asking for the code of the safe. The victim resisted and received a series of severe blows. When the killer realized that the 73-year-old man was unwilling to tell him the code, he grabbed a piece of glass and started cutting into his body. But he did not last long. He broke down and confessed the code. Then, the 31-year-old, according to Margarita’s testimony, struck the victim’s head against an edge of the terrace bar and killed him. MILLIONS AND JEWELLERY IN THE SAFE Margarita led the two young men to the safe, located in a specially constructed area in the house depot. According to estimates, the perpetrators removed at least two million in cash, as well as many expensive pieces of jewellery and watches. Before they left the house, they removed the tape from the CCTV that Mimis Zouganelis had installed in the residence and with the advice of 28-year-old Margarita they also took a laptop and the victim’s mobile phone. Immediately after the robbery they went straight to the port were they got on a ship headed to Rafina. “I was not surprised when they told me that it was the woman together with two fellow countrymen who brutally killed
my brother. To me, they were all suspects from the moment that the body was discovered”, the victim’s brother allegedly told the police. THEY BOUGHT APARTMENTS IN It transpired that less than a week after the murder, the three accomplices bought a shop and two apartments in the Polish capital. The public prosecutor at the Court of Appeals of the Aegean, in cooperation with the Greek Prosecutor in Eurojust, the judicial cooperation unit of the European Union, that promotes the co-ordination of investigations and prosecutions of the judicial authorities of member states, proceeded to issue a warrant for the three perpetrators through Interpol. Approximately one month after the atrocious crime, Polish authorities arrested the 28-year-old woman and the 31-year-old man on November 10, and a day later they finally arrested the third accomplice. A total of 1.5 million Euros as well as jewellery believed to belong to the Mykonian businessman were retrieved from their houses. After searching Margarita’s house, police found a laptop, a mobile phone, 57,700 Euros and 116,635 zlotys (approximately 30,000 Euros) as well as drugs: amphetamine and Indian hemp. SHE SENT HER CONDOLENCES, BUT REFUSED TO GO TO GREECE
28-year-old Margarita from Poland, whose real name is Malgorzata Piatek, believed that she had covered all her bases. Just a few days after the revelation of the crime, when she was already back in Poland, she sent messages of sympathy and condolences to Mimis’s relatives. His family, who had been kept informed by the police, asked her to come to Mykonos for the funeral, but she argued that she was in no position to do so. Margarita had been involved with the victim for three years. They began to see each other after meeting through a common friend in 2007. Since 2004 she had been working as a dancer in the Mykonian venue “Space club” and before that she cleaned rooms and washed dishes in a well-known hotel. She was always by his side, and known to everyone, including the port officer who rushed to inform Mykonos Security that he had seen her leaving the island along with two men, as soon as the crime was revealed. A SENSATIONAL TRIAL The three Polish accused were rapidly extradited back to Greece. This was largely due to the efforts made by the family's lawyer, Mr. Alexis Kougias. On Wednesday, December 1, Mr. Kougias along with the victim’s nephew, Gerasimos Zouganelis, appeared before the District Court in the city of Tarnow where the appeal against the European arrest
The house of Mimis Zouganelis where he was killed in 2010.
warrants presented by the three defendants would be deliberated. The Prosecutor Elzbieta Potoczek was presented with the evidence in the case, heard Mr. Kougias’s arguments, and handed down a decision that the three defendants should be extradited. The first one to be extradited was the 27-year-old man, towards the end of December 2010. In particular, on December 23, the accused claimed before the examining magistrate of Syros, Foteini Theofilopoulou, that he had not killed Mimis Zouganelis, that he only acted as the driver of the car, and that he knew nothing about the crime. He also argued that another person was also involved in the crime, while failing to identify him. To this day the man’s identity has not been clarified and the role he played in the crime remains unidentified. The defendant also confessed that the culprits threw away a substantial part of the stolen goods in various sites of the dam located in Ano Mera of Mykonos prior to their escape. One day later, Coast Guard divers explored the area of the port and pulled out several pieces of jewellery and other objects, which allegedly belonged to the unfortunate 73-year-old. Ten days later, Margarita and her 31-yearold friend also appeared before the examining magistrate. Although she had initially asserted before the public prosecutor of Syros that her two accomplices had come up with the plan and that they threatened to kill members of her family if she refused to organize the killing, events apparently became too much for the young woman, who burst out in tears claiming that she had no idea that Mimis would be killed. “They just told me that they would hit him to get him to reveal the code of the safe and that nobody would get hurt”, said the 28-year-old Pole, in an attempt to put the blame on her two accomplices. However, she admitted that she was the one who planned the robbery. On the other hand, 31-year-old Dominic Grzecsorzko claimed that he himself knew nothing about the murder and that it was the other two who beat the victim up. In 2012 before the jury of Samos Margarita and Dominc were given a life sentence, while the third accused sentenced to 14 years.
ISLAND PATROL CONTINUED FROM PAGE 113 AL GIGA
—Which factor brings changes to your work? My instinct and that I’m alive, which inspires me every day. —What are your plans for the future? We’ve got proposals to create pop up stores in different parts of the world: Dubai, Miami, Germany and elsewhere. I want us to open our “doors” to the whole world and help with the development of the fashion industry, promoting very promising Greek designers. Naturally, we’re also discovering new names which are promiseable. That’s the message I want to send.
—How do you consider moving towards into a more organic design for your Mykonian projects? As an architect and a lover of nature, “Rock” became my main key element for Mykonos 2019. With the big demand for construction in Mykonos, the main challenge would be to preserve as maximum the beauty of nature and move towards into a more organic design and ecologic architecture. In my projects, I balance the best of the contemporary equipments with the elegant and minimal elements of the environment. That’s why I believe that a “Rock” is very powerful, timeless and a symbolic element that we need to maintain for our optimistic development of the island. —How much has the public changed in recent years? Mykonos is famous all around the world but we wouldn’t want its success to be its destruction. Let’s be all careful and preserve our Jewel.
What’s the philosophy that you base your work on? Respect and adaptation to the really beautiful and very natural relief and morphology of the land. In all our surveys we strive for the user of the house to be able to go up or down three or four steps and come in contact with the original relief of the land. We always try, however modern the house is, to make it have a unique sense and experience of summer living in a Cycladic island. To feel the Cycladic light, the wind, the rocks, even the smells from the surrounding vegetation. How has the public changed in recent years? Even though Mykonos always attracted the jet-setters, in recent years it has become an international
278 | MYKONOS CONFIDENTIAL
brand name in the elite of tourist destinations worldwide. In combination with the crisis of the last ten years, which affected the Greeks, it was inevitable that there would be changes in the vacation lifestyle with changes in tourist amenities, a significant rise in the available services and naturally the prices. Despite the increase in prices, Mykonos remains an attraction for young people which in my opinion is the reason for the continuing rise of Mykonos. Young people through their social media posts, promote Mykonos as well, as one of the must and hot summer destinations worldwide. What has resulted from this change? This worldwide promotion naturally attracted the interest of international hotel, club and of course real estate brands. We’ve seen investments in the last 2-3 years increasingly from institutional investors. As regards our sector, real estate and development, the environment is becoming more institutional year after year. We increasingly see investment groups buy four, five or more house properties. The same goes for shops and beach clubs. It’s my opinion that we’ll see fewer private visitors buy a house for personal use only. Which factor modifies your sector’s demands in your opinion? All the above in combination with the economic crisis, have made Mykonos attractive for many firms that work in real estate in Greece. Also, due to the institutional investors, I think that our sector rather suddenly and with little preparation had to respond to a new business and professional environment, mainly in its operation based on international standards. Pride, envy, lust, sloth, gluttony, greed and wrath. Which do you consider our era’s most dangerous sin? All the stated behaviours by themselves or in combination are extremely toxic! Without a second thought, envy! The combination of all the rest leads to envy. Unfortunately, envy affects both parties negatively! The one who produces it as well as the one who receives it. The most important virtue? Love! Love includes all the virtues. Forgiveness, patience, justice, empathy, joy, honesty, faith, kindness and so many others. Which motto expresses you? Be serious in your work and crazy in your life!
—Which factor modifies your sector’s demands in your opinion? Political change create tremors in the market. This means that we should be sensitive and listen to these changes that influence the buyers’ psyche and their financial state. —Pride, envy, lust, sloth, gluttony, greed and wrath. Which do you consider our era’s most dangerous sin? I think that pride is destructive. This has been evident in all of human history. It includes psychological instability, insecurity and manifests negatively in the environment, destroying its bearer in the long run. —The most important virtue? I think that self-knowledge is an important virtue. Unfortunately, it needs a lot of work to achieve it. —Which motto expresses you? Daring - Talent - Luck.
KITTY J. LAIOS
—What do you expect from the Mayor for the island’s prosperity? The Mayor has made a commitment that he will not allow anyone to mess with Mykonos’ natural beauty and alter the unique Cycladic landscape! —Mykonos maintains the highest house values in the Cyclades. What do you attribute this to? The steady rise of tourism in recent years, combined with financial stability, has started to push Mykonos’ market to new heights, a characteristic of luxury or privileged location. The constant increase in tourism will possibly favour the demand of summer homes from foreign prospective buyers even more. Apart from the typical constructions, there’s a significant interest in luxury villas. For example in areas such as Aghios Lazaros - Psarou, Tourlos, Ai Ghiannis, Ornos, as well as the area above the beaches Elia, Kalo Livadi, Super Paradise and Paranga. The asking prices for luxury homes go up to 23000 euro per square meter. The construction quality in Mykonos in now so demanding, that it can justify these prices, if you factor in the location. —Has the buying audience of the island become different recently? The buyers have become more demanding, with an increase in the demand for large, luxury houses and a decrease in small and conventional houses.
—As regards real estate concerns, which factor alters the map in your opinion? The differentiation of the investors and the reason for buying. Expensive real estate, luxury real estate and investment purchases but not for the same use. —Pride, envy, lust, sloth, gluttony, greed and wrath. Which do you consider our era’s most dangerous sin? Pride. —The most important virtue? Virtue would not go far if it wasn’t accompanied by vanity! —Which motto expresses you? Cor ad cor loquitur - Heart speaks to heart.
LEONIDAS K ARANTZALIS
Wherever we are, whatever we drive or wear, we never cease to see something better in others’ posts. However beautiful our life, the lives of others seem more interesting. The constant striving to look happy online distances us increasingly from true happiness. —Pride, envy, lust, sloth, gluttony, greed and wrath. Which do you consider our era’s most dangerous sin? Some sins, such as envy and wrath, are high on the list, but I believe that greed is at the top. —The most important virtue? Respect. Respect for cultures different than our own, different wishes, different beliefs, different needs, respect for the hard work of the person before us, for the experiences that everyone carries. Let’s not forget respect for the environment. —Which motto expresses you? "You only live once, but if you do it right, once is enough." by Mae West.
Our country has a high return investment and just 3% real estate tax. Most significantly, while Greece lagged in comparison to other Mediterranean countries in recent years, in the last year and a half it has started to rise. Foreign investors have observed this. So they come here to invest with a lower price per square metre in relation to the rest of the Mediterranean.
—How has the public changed in recent years? There’s always going to be new
trends. I personally together with my associates try to understand the public’s demands. It’s a fact that tourism to the island from abroad, is increasing yearly. That results in us learning about new cultures with different demands. The issue is not the public’s differentiation but how fast you can perceive the change. —What has resulted from this change? As I said before, our meeting with something different has given us a clearer picture of the public’s demands. A customer always has wants. Perhaps those wants have increased. —Which factor modifies your sector’s demands in your opinion? I believe that no factor can modify your work. Don Blue does not move forward based on the competition. We try to be trailblazers. We don’t stray. We know how to perceive the environment, to evolve it or change it if needed. —Pride, envy, lust, sloth, gluttony, greed and wrath. Which do you consider our era’s most dangerous sin? No extreme emotion is a good guide or counsel. They’re all equally dangerous and lead to wrong actions. If we all focus on our work and know how to manage success as well as failure, all the above will disappear. They certainly exist, but they can be combated by correcting our thinking. —The most important virtue? Patience. I think it’s the most difficult and the most valuable! —Which motto expresses you? All mottos help you to think deeply. No guts no glory. I don’t know if it expresses me but it definitely has followed me until now.
We offer a very high standard of services and our goal is to earn and keep our clients’ trust from start to finish, whether we undertake the sale or purchase of luxury property and land, or the construction or renovation of the ideal home on the popular island of Mykonos. —What is your greatest concern? Undoubtedly, my greatest concern is the gradual abandonment of the traditional settlement in Mykonos Town. This is happening mostly because access has become very difficult, in the summer months, due to congestion and limited parking. Thus, the majority of tourists rarely visit the traditional part of the island. The problem
is amplified during the winter because many of the businesses shut down for the season, and we are left with an image of literal abandonment. In coming years, I am not sure that the road network will be able to accommodate more vehicles than it currently can, and granted that Mykonos is experiencing an acute increase in visitors, this is a problem we will definitely have to address. —What should people interested in buying or renting properties be aware of? Buyers who want to invest in Mykonos should only consult professionals who have been operating for many years on the island and know it well, in order to safeguard their investment. This is exactly what we do here at Mykonos Estates! Our team of legal consultants and engineers ensure the success of every sale or purchase we undertake in the best possible way. Absolute honesty, transparency, and clarity regarding the status of the property is a must. Also, an equally important factor that needs to be taken into consideration is the return on investment that each property can offer. Over the last few years, in addition to the investment returns on property in Mykonos due to increasing property values on the island, the option of long-term rental is also very profitable as this market has reached unprecedented levels. Suffice it to say that right now, many of the properties on sale in Mykonos can guarantee up to 30% return on investment! —What do you say to those who claim that property is overpriced? Mykonos has turned out to be the most durable market in Greece, attracting more investment than anywhere else in the country. From my experience in the real estate industry, I can tell you that it is the market itself that determines the value of a property. Thus, from the moment that a property can generate between 200,000 and 300,000 euro per year, as a rental, you realise that this simply cannot be true. —What parts of the island are property hotspots these days? Right now, the most popular parts of the island are the areas of Aghia Sofia, Tourlos, the amphitheatrically shaped Aghios Lazaros area located a breath away from Psarou, and the settlement of Aghios Ioannis that combines a picturesque quality with exceptional tourist infrastructure,
amphitheatrically built opposite the sacred island of Delos. Property in these areas is attracting the strong interest of buyers and investors. —Which tradition of Mykonos is your favourite? Mykonos has a unique quality of achieving a balance between the old and the new. Despite increased tourist development, many customs and traditions are being preserved. My favourite takes place during Lent. On the Saturday after Ash Monday, we take the icon of Panagia Tourliani, an old icon of the Virgin Mary that has great historical value, from the Monastery in Ano Mera down to Chora. Everyone follows the procession on foot, and it takes about 2 hours. The atmosphere is so sacred, it creates intense feelings. In essence, it is a code of communication for us locals, who have a great love for our island. —For you, what does the island’s infamous energy consist of? Nobody doubts that the island has a positive aura that wins you over at first glance. Many people say that the energy you can feel on Mykonos comes from Delos, for the most part. For me, it is a combination of factors. It is Delos, it is the unique traditional settlement, the whitewashed houses, the stunning chapels, and the welcoming people of Mykonos. I do not know if my view is shaped by my deep love for the island, but I have the feeling that you cannot find all of these features in any other place. I honestly believe that the success of Mykonos is not only due to its beauty. Its amazing beaches, the magical sunset, its doll-house boutiques, its picturesque narrow streets; yes, that is something, but it cannot be everything. For me, what gives Mykonos its greatest value and is its strong point is nothing less than the people who live here; the locals who work non-stop, with energy and passion, to offer all visitors of the island a taste of their hospitality and the warmth of their smile. Because of my job, I often travel to other parts of Greece and abroad, and every time I realise that the quality of services and level of professionalism on Mykonos is very high. If we consider tourism to be Greece’s heavy industry, then Mykonians could be considered, without a doubt, a model for other tourist areas in Greece that also aim to raise the bar. —The best advice you have been given?
It was my father, Konstantinos Palkogiannis, the founder and soul of the company, who gave me the best advice, and it is about the relationship of trust that I must build with my clients, so as to preserve the core values of Mykonos Estates: honesty, reliability, discretion, and long-term relationships. —Your plans for the future? The growth of our company begins and ends with the high quality services we offer our clients. Even though this has been a central part of our philosophy from the beginning, the intense competition that exists in all fields today, coupled with high customer demands and the professionalism that defines us, constantly guide us in updating our services and creating a premium product that can satisfy the needs of even the most discerning investor!
ALEX ANDROS SOTIROPOULOS
For example, in the collection of handmade BODYFIX mattresses, only natural products with no chemical substances are used. The Candia craftsmen are people with a lot of experience and technical knowhow, assembling the natural products with diligence and patience so that their qualities shine. All the rest of the stages until the final finish of the mattress are done exclusively by hand! This is why we create a unique product that very few companies in the world can make and we at CANDIA are proud that we’re one of them! —What factor changes the demands in your sector in your opinion? The fast pace of life and the increasing demands of the modern age have imposed industrial manufacturing processes with the result that the goods that are produced in this manner are inferior to the handmade. CANDIA, true to its philosophy of offering quality sleep to everyone that is a “trip” to the Mediterranean, uses techniques of high standards and a passion for perfection so as to make mattresses of high quality and aesthetics for everyone! —The most important virtue? I believe that the most important virtue is patience. For the last ten years that I’ve been doing business in Mykonos, patience has helped me to deal with the intense rhythms and strong demands of the island.
SUMMER 2019 | 279
Fashion Guide ADDRESSES
AL GIGA MYKONOS
6 Sotiros Str., +30 2289 306730
ANDREAS KRITIKOS 338 Kifissias Ave., Kifissia, +30 210 6208501 BAG STORIES BOHO VINTAGE CLOTHING BOUTIQUE THALASSA APHRODITE BEACH RESORT COSTUMIER
9 Stadiou Str., Athens, +30 210-3224472 8 Ipeirou Str., Athens, +30 211 1841101 Kalafatis Beach, +30 22890 71367
11 Pallados Str., Athens, +30 210 3214990
DASSIOS MYKONOS 30 Kalogera Str., +30 22890 29056 DS GOLD JEWELLERY Aghia Anna, Chora, +30 22890 25251 DSQUARED2 BOUTIQUE 9 Mitropoleos Str., +30 22890 77314 ELENA MAKRI MYKONOS BOUTIQUE ETOILE CORAL EVRIPIDES ART GALLERY GO GREEK GUESS MYKONOS
19 Kalogera Str., +30 22890 29145 etoilecoral.com 30 Kalogera Str., +30 22890 290056 gogreek.gr 10 M. Andronikou Str., + 30 22890 77749
HARRY MESTRO Harry Mestro I Workshop: 11 Aghiou Gerasimou Str ., +30 22890 27837 Harry Mestro II: 28 Fl. Zouganeli Str ., +30 22890 78515
JARDIN OF MYKONOS JOHN P KARAT KESSARIS-ORA KESSARIS
23 Mitropoleos Str., Chora, +30 22890 27451 Showroom: 50 Fragopoulou Str., Athens, +30 210 6778444 14 Mitropoleos Str. +30 22890 77949 Nammos Village Psarou Beach, +30 22890 22376 58 Mat. Andronikou Str., +30 22890 22880
LALAOUNIS 14 N. Polikandrioti Str., +30 22890 22444 LOUIS VUITTON BOUTIQUE
Enoplon Dynameon Str., Tria Pigadia, +30 22890 78850
MICRO BOUTIQUE ATHENS 18 Chatzichristou Str., Athens, +30 216 700 3277 MINAS
Aghias Kyriakis Sq., +30 22890 27320
MONTROI Ostraco Suites, Drafaki, +30 22890 27121 MOUTSOS PRINCIPOTE MYKONOS
moutsos.gr Panormos Beach, +30 2289 077184
ROUSOUNELOS 32 Matogianni Str., +30 2289 022797 SANTANNA Paraga Beach, +30 2289 025805 SOHO SOHO SantAnna, Paraga Beach, +30 2289 025805 46 Matogianni Str. (women's), +30 22890 26760 51 Matogianni Str. (men's), +30 22890 27670 Branco Hotel – Platis Gialos Beach (Women’s & Men’s), +30 22890 28378
THEMIS Z Dimitris Mavrogenis Str. & Goumenio Square, +30 22890 23210
THE KING’S CLOTHES 47 Athinas Str., Athens , +30 210 3313393 TIME CENTER
280 | MYKONOS CONFIDENTIAL
Health Care GENERAL PRACTITIONERS VICTOR LACI Downtown Clinic, 13 Ag. Kiriakis, +30 22891 81040 +30 6942 926154 ZISSIS ΑSIMOMITIS New Argirainas Regional Rd., +30 22890 22633,+30 6944 342770 THRASSIVOULOS ΚONTOMITROS ΜikoniatikiYgeia, Dexamenes, +30 22890 24211, +30 22890 26100, +30 6944 338292 YIANNIS STEFANAKOS Mykonos Medical, Argyrena, +30 22890 77700, +30 6934 187198 GYNECOLOGISTS ΜONIR ΝIMER In front of the Health Care Centre, Αrgiraina, +30 22890 28677, +30 6977 687618 JANDARK GHORASHI Mykonos Medical, Argyrena, +30 22890 77700, +30 6981 125811 MICROBIOLOGISTS TASOS GEORGOULIOS Mykonos Medical Argyrena, +30 22890 77700 +30 6974 425337 DERMATOLOGISTS CHRISTOS ΚOSMIDES DermatologistVenereologist, Μikoniatiki Ygeia, Dexamenes, +30 22890 22140,+30 6974 845906 RADIOLOGISTS NIKOS MENIS Mykonos Medical, Argyrena, +30 22890 77700 +30 6937 416859 ENDOCRINOLOGISTS STAVROS PAPAVERGIS Mykonos Medical, Argyrena, +30 22890 77700 +30 6972 427131 DECO ΑΝDREAS KRITIKOS, 338 Kifisias Ave., Kifisia, +30 210 6208501
KIPOS CONCEPT STORE 14 Panaxrantou Str., +30 22890 00955
Dexamenes, +30 22890 27407, 27464, +30 6977 654737
CARDIOLOGISTS EMMANUEL SIKINIOTIS ΜikoniatikiYgeia, Dexamenes, +30 22890 28435,+30 6945 589990
OTOLARYNGOLOGIST GEORGE PERISTERAKIS Otolaryngology Surgeon, Μikoniatiki Ygeia, Dexamenes, +30 22890 27407, 22890 27647, +30 6977 743789
ΜΙCROBIOLOGISTS MARIA STAMATELATOU Argirena, +30 22890 27280 DENTISTS PANAGIOTIS GRYPARIS 33 Ag.Efthimiou Str., +30 22890 22059, +30 6972023944 PANAGIOTA ILIOPOULOU Glastros, +30 22890 24411, +30 6976 774729 ILIAS THEOCHAROPOULOS Dental Surgeon University of Athens, Vrisi Gymnasium, Drafaki, +30 22890 28421, +30 6944 899214 GEORGE ΚATSIRMAS Μ. Αxioti, Kato Miloi, +30 22890 25183, +30 6945 905267 YIANNIS ΚONTOS Μikoniatiki Ygeia, Dexamenes, +30 22890 24195,+30 6977 403464 GEORGE XIDAKIS 51 M. Axioti Str., Fabrika, +30 22890 23980, +30 6945 434565 LAMPRINI POLTSI Dental Surgeon University of Athens, Vrisi Gymnasium, Drafaki, +30 22890 28421, +30 6944 899214 DIMITRA SFIRI 6 Venieri Str., Μatogiannia, +30 22890 27158, +30 6946037706 ΟPTOMETRISTS BETHLEEM PAPPA ΜikoniatikiYgeia, Dexamenes, +30 22890 28170, +30 6974 874877
WS PRODUCTS 78 Poseidonos Ave., Alimos, +30 210 9816163
ΟRTHOPAEDICS LOUKAS KONSTANTINOU Orthopaedic Surgeon Traumatologist Mykonos Trauma Care, Argiraina, +30 22890 78549, +30 6975980313
KIPOS CONCEPT STORE 4 Riga Feraiou Str., Mykonos
GEORGE ΤSEKOURAS ΜikoniatikiYgeia,
PEDIATRICIANS ΑTHANASSIOS ΚΟUSATHANAS 38 M. Axioti Str., Chora, +30 22890 23946, +30 6944501880 PATHOLOGISTS MARKOS ΙΑΚOVOU, Specialist Pathologist, Vrisi Gymnasium Mykonos, +30 22890 23884, +30 22890 24399, +30 6944537971 PHYSIOTHERAPISTS ΜARINA ΑGGELETAKI Iordanis Area, Mykonos, +30 22890 25254 PLASTIC SURGEONS DR. ZISIS BOUKOUVALAS +30 6947 938 329, drboukouvalas.gr ΜARIA CHATZIIOANNOU Physiotherapy Centre, Lakka, Chora, +30 22890 23051 VETERINARIANS ΝIKOS ΤRIANTAFYLLOU Αrgirena, +30 22890 22725, +30 6944372535 MEDICAL HEALTH CLINIC CRYO Shopping mall “Delos”, Argyrena, +30 22890 26775, +30 6974447330, cryomykonos.com MYKONOS MEDICAL Argyrena, +30 22890 77700 & 28353, mykonosmedical. com SEA (SOUTH EAST) Medical Clinic, Aggelika, New ring road Ornos, +30 22890 27350, seamedical.gr PHARMACIES ΑLKISTIS G. ROUSSI Ano Mera Sq., +30 22890 71112 ΙOANNIS P. THEOCHARIS 31 Mitr.Andronikos St., Chora, +30 22890 23770 ΕFTICHIA GAZELOPOULOU Οrnos, +30 22890 25163
ΚIMON D. ΚΟUKOUZELIS Vougli, Regional Rd., Chora, +30 22890 23250 ΑNNA Κ. ΚΟUKOUZELI Argirena, +30 22890 23800 ΚALLIOPI Μ. DAKTYLIDI 57 AgiosArtemios Str., Chora, +30 22890 24188 ΝΙΚΟS G. ΚΟUSATHANAS 10 Mitropoleos Str. +30 22890 23151
Services/ Miscellaneous INTERIOR DESIGNER ANTONIS MARTINOS +30 6972081288, email@example.com ARCHITECT AUDE MAZELIN Lino, Paraga, +30 22890 77111, mykonos-architect.gr REAL ESTATE SERVICES PALKOGIANNI REAL ESTATE Vougli , +30 6943731919 KITTY LAIOS REAL ESTATE +30 6932421866, laios-estate.com MYKONOS REAL ESTATE Drafaki Regional Rd, +30 22890 26066, a-mykonos.gr
PHOTO EXPRESS Dexamenes, +30 22890 28787 & 17 F. Zouganeli Str, +30 22890 26350
RENTAL CARS MYKONOS & SERVICES +30 22890 26464, rentalcarsmykonos.com
NANOS FIREWORKS GREECE +30 210 6818499, nanosfireworks.gr
DELI AND FOOD MARKETS ALL ABOUT MEAT Vougli, + 30 22890 24018, Fabrica, +30 22890 24028, Ornos, +30 22890 24033
OROZCO JASON (DJ + musical happenings) Vrissi, 6945 834001 SECURITY KERNEL SECURITY SERVICES Ornos, +30 22890 78339 kernelsecurityservices.gr YAGHTING SERVICES EVERSAILS Ornos, +30 6945156744 MYKONOS V.I.P. YACHTING SERVICES +30 22890 26644, mtsgroup.gr KP YAGHTING +30 22890 25480 YACHTING SERVICES & TRANSPORTATION ALPHA MARINE GROUP +30 210 8983590, alpha-group.gr MYKONOS LUXURY RENTALS Ornos, +30 22890 27878, mykonosluxuryrentals.com L’O YACHTING Kremasti Paradisia, +30 22890 28317, +30 6932 526292, loyachting.com
MYKONOS TOP VILLAS +30 6944 338811, mykonostopvillas.com
MYKONOS CONCIERGE Anomera, mykonos-concierge.gr
REAL ESTATE IN MYKONOS Drafaki, +30 22890 27317, 697730517, 6944338811, realestateinmykonos.gr
AVANCE New Port, +30 22890 24640, Airport, +30 22890 24740, avance.gr
ORAMA EVENTS +30 210 6622760
HERCULES RENT BIKE & CAR Bus terminal, +30 22890 23168, mykonosrentals.gr
Y NOT +30 6988611267, firstname.lastname@example.org, ynot-events.com SPECIAL EFFECT & SHOWS FUTURE MODELS 8 Kerasountos Str., Athens, + 30 211 4028146
ICAR +30 22890 72280, +30 6980 50 8000, icar.gr TOMASO RENT A CAR Airport Area, +30 22890 28000, tomaso.gr
ARTISTI PROZUMI Ano Mera CR Road, +30 22890 71007 DRAKOULIS MEAT OPEN PROJECT My Mall, Ano Vrisi, Lagada, +30 22890 23022, drakoulis.gr FLORA SUPERMARKETS Airport, Ano Mera, Vothonas, mykonos-flora.gr LAUNDRY SERVICES MILI LAUNDRY V. Mergianni Str & 19 Xenias St., +30 22890 26752, +30 6970 838522 CHIONATI (SNOW WHITE) Rochari, Chora, +30 22890 24710
Αctivities KALAFATI DIVE-CENTRE Κalafatis, +30 22890 71677, +30 6945243928 KALAFATIS WATER SPORTS Κalafatis, +30 6945 261242 DIVE ADVENTURE KaloLivadi, +30 22890 24808 PARADISE Mykonos Diving Centre, Paradise, +30 22890 26539 WINDSURFING MYKONOS Κalafatis, +30 6944139656
Radio Stations GALAXIAS 99,50 FM, +30 22890 25200, galaxiasfm.gr ΜΥΚΟΝΟS FM 98,1 FM +30 22890 25100, +30 6944 346629 VENUS 99,3 FM +30 22890 24015, venusradio.gr
USEFUL NUMBERS AREA CODE: 22890 FIRST AID STATION, ΑΝO ΜΕRΑ.................71395
CITIZEN SERVICE CENTRE ............................28621
FIRST AID STATION, CHORA.....................22274
MYKONOS HOTEL OWNERS ASSOCIATION...............................24540, fax:24760
ΑIRPORT........................................................22327... POLICE STATION.......................................... 22716
HEALTH CARE CENTRE..............................23994 BUS STATION (ΚΤΕL)..................................23360
WATER SUPPLY & SEWERAGE MUNICIPAL ENTERPRISE.......................... 24910
PORT PATROL STATION..................................22218
TOURIST APARTMENTS UNION...24860, 23160
MUNICIPAL DEPARTMENT OF ANO MERA...............................................71261
MUNICIPAL POLICE...............................................22716, 22235
POST OFFICE (ΕLΤΑ)........................................22238 TOURIST POLICE DEPARTMENT..............22482
SUMMER 2016 | 281
guilty pleasures Chronicle. B Y IRA S IN IGAL IA
— The milestones of a sinners' paradise or how a place in the middle of the Aegean Sea became the epicenter of a live-life-to-the-max attitude.
— Mykonos’ first “club” is here! It’s Kioukas’ Sali Bagli – named after a character in an oriental fairy tale – serving coffee, turkish delight and stewed sweets. People would hang out there for coffee and a chat and then walk back to Manto’s statue and lounge there watching passers-by.
— Elsa Maxwell organized cruises for stars and the royals. The fame of Mykonos resounded worldwide, although strictly speaking, the first cruises were organized in 1928 by the Mykonean Union.
— The first nudists make an appearance on Elia beach. The Mykonians, instead of calling priests and police to take them away, welcomed them as if they were their own. The nudist movement flourished on Mykonos and was largely responsible for the island’s tolerant reputation. Of course today, you can find nudists in Aghios Sostis, never mind Elia.
— Xenia, designed by the well-known architect Aris Konstantinidis, opened its gates to visitors at Kato Myloi. At the same time some houses were converted to guest houses, such as Roussounelos' «Karbonaki», Kodizas' «Filippi» and «Kouneni».
— Paralos is taken over by Makis Zouganelis and is dubbed Remezzo. Shortly afterwards, at Yialos, at a building open to the sky which had been a “casino” with “electronic” games of that bygone age, Kostas Zouganelis sets up “9 Muses”. With parties going on strong till the morning light, the early discos of the island were here to stay.
— Amadeo together with Stavros Xarhakos present the show “Children of the Universe” at Ornos beach. The idea began one night in Fouskis’ taverna. There, in Ornos, with no electricity, the show was presented, with a fishing boat coming from Delos and with Pierro Aversa playing Cleopatra.
— The tyres of the first Olympic Airways airplane touch down at the island’s minuscule airport. Until then, the only alternative for sensitive famous visitors who couldn’t stomach rocky boats was to take a helicopter— they could arrive in Korfos quicker and completely unscathed.
— The first gay bar on Mykonos, Pierro’s opens,
created by Pierro Aversa, a mysterious Italian photographer and painter. In the beginning it was a restaurant and later with the help of Margot Laing and her husband Andreas Koutsoukos, it takes off and becomes a legend.
— First “gay wedding”: everyone on the island has been invited to attend, ranging from the most extreme personalities to local elderly women, to see off the “newly-weds” all the way to Yialos, where they drove off in a pink Chevrolet cabrio.
— Vengera opens. It had been built the year before by the legendary Johnny Reed, who gave it to Babis Pasaoglou from Astra. The bar lasted 20 years and became the symbol of bohemian entertainment on the island.
— The first fool moon party on Panormos. They attract people that would not show up for “social events”, starting a trend that went on for many years together with Aghios Sostis. Today on Panormos there’s Principote.
— Rena tis Ftelias opens. The first restaurant that became “the” place to be for those wishing to see and be seen. Every day, socialites, surfers and locals came together.
— Βabis Pasaoglou opens Astra. The “signature” by Minas above the entrance symbolises the place’s timelessness.
— «Cheap» is the key word of the decadence phase that Mykonos goes through. «Rooms to let» for penniless tourists and young people who are down to their last drachma, and yet aspire to experience magic that, alas, is no more.
— Matoyiannia is becoming one of the most expensive commercial markets in Greece. Every well-known house, all the maitres, and all the jewelers claim a few square meters of the island’s cobbled alleys.
— Scorpios opens in Paraga, initiating a new era in the bohemian style of the island. The architect Dimitris Karampatakis of K-Studio, has created a space with multi-cultural references, a passage from Kerala to Morocco,
— Mykonos is fastly transforming into a fun hub where spending is the word .
THE WHITE HOUSE HOLIDAY EXPERIENCE
Kalami, Corfu 491 00. For Reservations: (+30) 26630 91040. (+30) 697 988 1131. E-mail : email@example.com
www.thewhitehouse.gr SUMMER 2016 | 283
The Only Bible of Mykonos! Directly in sync with what makes the island vibrate, Mykonos Confidential is the first independent life-style mag...
Published on Jul 16, 2019
The Only Bible of Mykonos! Directly in sync with what makes the island vibrate, Mykonos Confidential is the first independent life-style mag...