Fall Winter 2019 Idalis Castro
All information and runway photos are referenced from Vogue. Logos are taken from the designersâ€™ or design house website. All images of designers were found through Google Images.
Table Anrealage Cedric Charlier Ellery Stella McCartney Alexander McQueen
Contents 1 7 13 19 25
Zuhair Murad Bande Noir Alessandra Rich Johanna Ortiz Acne Studios
31 37 43 49 55
Kunihiko Morinaga Tokyo born Kunihiko Morinaga launched Anrealage in 2003 after graduating from Waseda University and Vantan Design Academy to bring to life his observations about current fashion ideology where subtle details are overlooked that create touches of “unreality”. It is this idea that Morinaga created the name “Anrealage”. By combining the words “a real”, “unreal”, and “age” that fully embody his mantra of “God is in the details.”
“With this collection, surreal was equally valid.” -Amy Verner VOGUE Fall 2019 Ready to Wear, Anrealage Coverage, 26 February 2019
300% Details Traditional fall garments of skirts, jackets, and knit wear are turned on its head in Kunihiko Morinaga’s latest collection by extreme oversizing that completely engolf each model to emphasis the hidden details that typically are not seen in phone screens as per Morinaga’s concept. The result is larger than life garments as they are sized up 300% as per Morinaga’s words. At first glance the collection reads as a slowly declining design inspiration until closer glance where it is notied that the silhuettes are still feminine even with the overtly masculine overtone.
Sweden bord designer found hinmself in Paris after winning the Moet Hennessy Fashion Award. Charlier has worked with Michael Kors and Alber Elbaz at Celine. Evetually in 2012, he launched his fashion house after elevating Cacherel to a luxury brand.
“[Birds] ...are the symbol of heaven and the symbol of soul . . . but that is just my starting point, and after that it is about intuition.” -Cedric Charlier VOGUE Read to Wear, Fall 2019, Cedric Charlier Coverage by Luke Leitch, 2 March 2019
[Aero]Dynamic Blink and you might just miss every detail of Cedric Charlier’s collection. Like birds, each shape and silhuette is similar in appearance but it is the deatils that truly set apart each design. With small details remnicent or quite literally of the feathers of birds like slits that reveal prints and trims, there is no lack of bland repeatativeness just as nature intended.
Australian Born Kym Ellery first began as a fashion journalist with Rushh Magazine for four years until a pair of stockings she designed became feaatured in vogue, she decided to build her brand, Ellery. Since then, Ellery has pushed her 70â€™s inspired garments made in Australia with experimental textiles made in Italy and Switzerland.
“You don’t always lose when you snooze.” - Luke Leitch
VOGUE Fall 2019 Ready to Wear, Ellery Coverage, 5 March 2019
Dreams of Ambition As per Kym Ellery’s concept, each design flows like a dream. Unlike other collectins this season, Ellery takes something so mundane as going to bed and dreaming and makes it fresh and whimsical. Each look continously becomes increasingly more ellaborte as the conceptual person falls deeper into sleep and eventually dreams alowing beautiful femine silhuettes to become surreal and magical. Ellery’s ambitious textile combinations with exquisite construction makes her one of the most “look out for” new designers
Stella McCartney Daughter of Sir Paul McCartney and Linda McCartney, Stella McCartney has truly affirmed her place in the fashion world by standing firm on her beliefs of respect for nature, respect for people, and respect of animals by creating circular sustainability in all of her fashion and accessory designs. McCartney first began designing with Christian Lacroix at the age of 16 where she worked on her first haute couture collection.
“...she’s never foregrounded her initiatives on the runway quite like she did today.” -Nicole Phelps
VOGUE Ready to Wear Fall 2019, Stella McCartney Coverage, 4 March 2019
#shetheregrows Few designers, if not none, are able to push sustainability, enviornmental protection, upsycling, and love in one cohesive runway show that combines detailed constrution and vivid colors that pushes just what fashion could be without the controversial elements. Using old viscose fabrics from previous seasons to create a new beautifully detailed opening jacket is just the tip of the iceberg that is what McCartney’s latest collection is.
Sarah Burton English born designer Sarah Burton began in fashion immediately with the current house she works for as creative director. After only three years at Central Saint Marins College of Art and Design, she was invited to interview for a position with Alexander McQueen. She soon became McQueenâ€™s full time personal asisstant. After McQueenâ€™s death in 2010, Gucci appointed Burton as creative director after deciding to continue the brand.
â€œ...exquisitely realized, peerless, and definitive.â€? -Sally Singer
VOGUE Fall 2019 Ready to Wear, Alexander McQueen Coverage, 4 March 2019
Rooted Victorian In Alexander McQueen fashion, Sarah Burton fully embraces the roots of the fashion house with geometirc lace prints with stud trimmings and leather accessories that are delicately placed together to create classic silhuettes in a beautifully modern collection. There are points within the collection where certain designs fall flat compared to others or are simply tweaked and called a new design. Although beautiful in construction, color, and textiles the collection as a whole falls short except for a handful of looks.
Zuhair Murad 31
Zuhair Murad Lebanese designer Zuhair Murad moved to Paris for schooling. It was not until 1999 that Murad presented his collection in Rome that led to the opportunity to present in the Italian Calender. Murad has designed for selebrities as Kerry Washington, Miley Cyrus, Priyanka Chopra, Jennifer Lopez, Beyonce Knowles, Shakira and many more. His designs even walks the run way of the Miss Universe Pagent in 2009.
â€œThe anchor was the onna-bugeisha female warriors of the Japanese nobility...â€? -Tina Isaac-Goize
VOGUE Ready to Wear, Zuhair Murad Coverage, March 5 2019
Juxtapositions Provocative oppulence is the overtone thatZuhair Murad presents in his Fall/Winter 2019 collection. Lace, fur, and intricate print patterns push audiences further and further into jaw dropping awe. Carefully placed ruffles drape across a delicate A-line that is then completely blindsides by visually striking textiles to present how Edwardian femininity can become modern, provocative, and strong.
Mayte Allende Former Womanâ€™s Wear Daily editor became creative director at Bande Noir in 2018. Her 15 years in fashion has been able to propell her into the world of designing after she wore a top that she had designed to a party where guests constantly asked where she had gotten the top she was wearing. It was then that she decided to try a new route. She started first as a creative consultant before becoming creative director at Bande Noir.
“If last season was about inching away from the label’s luxury basics origins, this season is about jumping full steam ahead into something more dressed up, more sophisticated, and more appealing to adult women...” - Brooke Bob VOGUE Fall 2019 Ready to Wear, Bande Noir Coverage, 1 February 2019
Classicly Modern Fun, fabulous, and in your face. True femininity is unapologetically in full display in 60’s and 70’s esque garments that can appeal to both the young and old. Bright vivid colors are balanced by classic shapes and silhuettes that leaves no room to question who was in mind when designing the collection.
With no formal training, Alessandra Rich created her brand in 2010 after her own wedding dress that she designed herself garned attention from fashion magazine editors. Her designs are heaily retro inspired for very feminine looks.
â€œOh my Goddd . . . so cool . . . so extra . . . so fresh . . . so fashion!â€? - Luke Leitch VOGUE Fall 2019 Ready to Wear, Alessandra Rich, 1 March 2019
Modern Sexy Edwardian Thus far, few have fully embraced the Edwardian revival trend the way Alessandra Rich has. Blurring the line between provocative and prudent is what Rich does best with extremely mini A-line skirts and high necklines. Those lines become further blurred when bodysuits and full length gowns are see through with black G strings that completely empower everything that is a women. Strength and sexuality. Even the opaque tea length dresses are paired with body chains and chokers that are also able to portray the same message the in your face sexuality garments give.
Johanna Ortiz 49
Johanna Ortiz Colombian Born Johanna Ortiz studied at the Arts Institute graduating honors in 2002. Two years later after returning to Colombia, Ortiz launched her brand that is now known for rich colors and floral motifs.
“Sun, sea, and sand are always on the horizon at Johanna Ortiz.” -Chioma Nnadi VOGUE Fall 2019 Ready to Wear, Johanna Ortiz, 2 March, 2019
Rowing Forward In Johanna Ortiz fashion, earth tones are fully on display through out the entire collection and in the runway space. But it is Ortiz’s transition of sohpisticated on trend Edwardian style dress to modern layering and hourglass silhuettes that make her fall 2019 ready to wear collection stand apart. Focused on construction of garments and textiles creates a well rounded collection that stay true to her Columbian roots while still staying close to trend. Where Ortiz truly pushes herself is the over sized sleeves and “chain mail” dress. These particular styles take center stage as they are thoroughly pushing her traditional beach vibes.
Jonny Johansson Johnny Johansson launched Acne creative collective along with three others. Johansson began designing after he created raw denim pants with red stitching. It was not until 1997 that he launched his own line focusing on inspiration from art, music, and the Warhol Factory.
“High Fashion for Young People.” -Amy Verner VOGUE Fall 2019 Ready to Wear Acne Studios Coverage , 20 January, 2019
Sophsticated, Sexy, Powerful. Johnny Johansson marries traditional women’s powersuiting with modern oversized street wear to create a collection that embodies th modern woman’s attitude. Oversized silhuettes dominate the collection but are offset by over sized belts and smocking to truly conquer the masculine shapes of the garments making them feminine. These are the details that truly captivate viewers and push Johansson’s concept of occupying the headspace of youths instead of catering to them as he once tried. The earthy color tones paired with deeply saturated vivid colors and patterns used through the collection are not only visually appealing but are cultivated to push the boundaries on modern silhuettes and traditional sewing techniques.
Idalis Castro Designer File Fall/Winter 2019 Anthony S. Miller INtro to Fashion Design 04