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A r e s o u r c e g u i d e t o t h e v a l l e y â€™s c r a f t b e v e r a g e i n d u s t r y
INSIDE: Vines of the Times Sparkling Wines PLUS: Weddings in Hudson Valley Wine Country
CONTRIBUTORS J. Stephen Casscles (Wines of the Hudson Valley) is a long-time local vintner and viticulturist, and currently a winemaker for Hudson-Chatham Winery. As counsel and member of the State Senate Task Force for Hudson Valley Fruit Growers he was responsible for several groundbreaking laws on viticulture. His forthcoming book, Grapes of the Hudson Valley (Flint Mine Press) is a definitive volume on cold-weather varietals culled from decades of personal grape growing and winemaking experience.
IN THIS FIRST ISSUE of 2014 we’re putting a spotlight on things that sparkle and shine. Perhaps because summer tends to make us all feel a bit bubbly inside and there’s a little more spring in our flip-flopped gait. But most likely the obsession stems from being able to finally release all the news that’s been bottled up over the seemingly never-ending winter months. Every issue of Hudson Valley Wine Magazine shines a spotlight on the region’s craft beverage producers and their offerings, so what’s new in this issue? Here’s a quick run-down of what we’re uncorking:
Josyane Colwell (The Convival Table), the Provençal-born founder and executive chef of Le Moulin Event Planning & Catering in Irvington, NY, offers worldly sensibilities about food, presentation and ambiance. Clients such as ABC, Vera Wang, Victoria’s Secret and the National Trust for Historic Preservation have enjoyed her French delectables and white glove affairs. www.lemoulincatering.com
First, in our feature article Vines of the Times (page 2), writer Kathleen Willcox brings to light several Hudson Valley vineyards where the focus is on coaxing the local terroir out of the soil and into the bottle. Estate wines continue to shine with each new vintage, and this year will be no exception. In Talking Terroir (page 8), our interview with wine expert, author, and educator Steven Kolpan gives us his insight on the Hudson Valley wine scene. And in Wine-ing a Whey (page 9) Wendy Crispell seeks out some outstanding producers and pairs their home-grown goodness with craft beverages and artisanal cheeses to make them zing.
Wendy Crispell WSET Advanced Certificate, Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW), (Wine-ing a Whey) is a wine and cheese specialist based in both the Hudson Valley and NYC. She writes a blog, sassysips.com, and instructs weekly wine and cheese classes aboard the motor yacht Manhattan, as well as at private and corporate tasting events. www.wendycrispellwine.com
In Wines of the Hudson Valley (page 6) we explore sparkling wines and introduce some new releases that are making their debuts—including a new line of estate-grown wines made in the traditional old-world method. Then there are recipes for sparkling summertime cocktails with a local flair in the Convivial Table (page 56). Speaking of bubbly beverages, we welcome Crossroads Brewing Company and their profile to our Brewery section (page 52).
Debbie Gioquindo Certified Travel Counselor (CTC), Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW), Wine Location Specialist (WLS) (Wine Country Travel) is a wine blogger and educator, also known as the Hudson Valley Wine Goddess. Debbie is owner of Exclusive Wine Vacations, and co-creator of Happy Bitch Wines. www.hvwinegoddess.com
Finally, if you’re thinking of tying the knot in one of the Hudson Valley’s unique settings, Debbie Gioquindo’s guide to planning your big day in Weddings in Hudson Valley Wine Country (page 60) will help make it a stellar event.
Traci L. Suppa (Talking Terroir) loves sharing stories about the places and people of the Hudson Valley, her home for nearly 20 years. A freelance writer, she covers a range of lifestyle topics, including food, travel, design and parenting. Her blog, Go BIG or Go Home, chronicles her family’s quirky visits to “world’s largest” places. www.wordscapesny.com
But bubbling under all of this is the excitement of our upcoming new book release, The Story of Brotherhood, America’s Oldest Winery (www.flintminepress.com) in time for the winery’s 175th anniversary celebrations. After years of research and culling together images from all over the country, in The Story of Brotherhood, Robert Bedford, HVWM’s executive editor, sets the story of America’s oldest winery straight. As we congratulate Brotherhood Winery on its 175th anniversary, let’s all drink to their long history of sparkling wine production in the Hudson Valley too!
Michael Taiani Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW),(Ty’s Take-Away), aka “Ty the Wine Guy,” is a food and wine consultant and marketer. Assisting people with food and wine is his passion. www.tytwg.com
Kathleen Willcox (Vines of the Times) is a freelance writer who covers food, spirits and culture in the Hudson Valley. She lives in Carmel with her husband and twins. email@example.com
Linda Pierro Managing Editor 1
HUDSON VALLEY WINE
Volume 7 Issue 1 Summer 2014
ROBERT BEDFORD EXECUTIVE EDITOR LINDA PIERRO MANAGING EDITOR / DESIGN DIRECTOR
H U D S O N VA L L E Y
CHERYL ELKINS ADVERTISING SALES
I N S I D E
J. STEPHEN CASSCLES VITICULTURAL CONSULTANT
MARYANN PIERRO CONTRIBUTOR
Vines of the Times by Kathleen Willcox
ADVERTISING INQUIRIES: Contact us at firstname.lastname@example.org or call 518-731-1332. SUBSCRIPTIONS: For rates, email us at email@example.com EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTIONS: We invite ideas for articles, photographs, letters and other contributions from readers. Please write us at the address below or email firstname.lastname@example.org. Any manuscript or artwork submitted by mail should be accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope if you would like it returned. HVW is not responsible for the return or loss of submissions.
6 8 Talking Terroir by Traci L. Suppa
Wines of the Hudson Valley: Sparkling Wines
Wine-ing a Whey by Wendy Crispell,
by J. Stephen Casscles
CONTACT US: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine PO Box 353, Coxsackie, NY 12051 Phone: 518-731-1332 Email: email@example.com
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HUDSON VALLEY WINETM Magazine (ISSN 2325-8519) is published semi-annually by Flint Mine Press, a division of Flint Mine Group, llc. ©2014 Flint Mine Group, llc. All rights reserved. Hudson Valley Wine is a trademark of Flint Mine Group, llc. Material may not be reproduced in whole or in part in any form without written permission. The magazine assumes no responsibility to return unsolicited material. No statement in this publication is to be construed as a recommendation. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. Remember to drink responsibly.
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Wineries Meadery Distilleries Brewery
The Convivial Table by Josyane Colwell Seedlings... Wine Country Travel by Debbie Gioquindo, CTC, CSW, WLS Events Ty’s Take-Away by Michael “Ty the Wine Guy” Taiani, CSW
PHOTOS: Courtesy Robibero Winery (top); Courtesy Stoutridge Vineyard (bottom)
www.hvwinemag.com • Summer 2014
By Kathleen Willcox
Delicate grapes, through assiduous hands-on maintenance, the use of rigorous scientific analysis, plus the trademark Hudson Valley pioneer and cooperative spirit, are reaching their full flavor potential here. Finally, tasting Hudson Valley terroir is as rewarding as gazing upon it. he Hudson Valley’s unique and heterogeneous geography, geology and climate have made it one of the most beloved destinations in the country. But the same dramatic features – hot summers, cold winters, the Taconic, Shawangunk and Appalachian mountains, a fierce and stony landscape, the powerful tidal estuary known as the Hudson River sluicing through the region – that attract so many visitors has at times presented a less than open-armed welcome to grapes and those who cultivate them.
The Hudson Valley grape region, the third-largest district in New York State, has, until recently, been hidden in the shadows of Long Island’s North Fork (the ocean climate provides a spa-like atmosphere that makes red varietals blossom, especially Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot) and the Finger Lakes (the ancient glacial lakes and hilly terrain produce assertive white varietals, especially Rieslings). But the reputation of the Hudson Valley terroir is infamous for grapes that express foxier and more cloying notes – in other words, not always in sync with sophisticated, contemporary tastes. However, thanks to a decision by many winemakers in the region to work together (gathering for monthly blind tastings to evaluate each other’s wines and give each other advice), and to enlist the wine wonks at the Cornell Cooperative for scientific insight to help them embrace the pros and the cons of their vineyard sites, grape growers have been able to coax entirely new flavors out of the Hudson Valley soil.
Every winemaker has a different approach to their vineyard – some embrace vitis vinifera varietals (traditional European grapes), some have turned to hybrid grapes (created by scientists at places like Cornell and University of Minnesota, hybrids are crosses of two or more vitis species of grape to produce new strains that are hardier and more resistant), some use native labrusca grapes. Once they’ve narrowed down the class of varietal, some winemakers try to predict future trends and grow varietals to suit the market’s projected tastes. Some stick with the varietals they have found success with in the past, others plant and plan as their palates suit them. But without exception, when it’s time to bottle their fermented grapes, winemakers in the Hudson Valley are using fewer and fewer grapes grown from “the other” New York regions, and are instead focused on celebrating the complex sense of place waiting to emerge from the soil. Unique Hudson Valley “diamonds” have emerged from the rough, and are ready to be reconsidered in all of their newly minted glory. The new Hudson Valley terroir has an unmistakable, signature minerality and earthiness, tasting like the ’Gunks look on a sunny day: vibrant, a little spicy and shaley, but clean and pure. Hudson Valley Wine Magazine talked to a handful of the wineries who have made some of the most interesting estate wines in the region lately to find out how they’re coaxing uncommonly lovely wines from our uncommonly challenging terroir.
ABOVE: Robibero Winery’s north to south planted vineyard will be extended by four more acres this year. OPPOSITE PAGE: One of the well-tended blocks of vines at Millbrook Vineyards & Winery. All photos courtesy of the vineyards.
HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer 2014
learview grows all of its grapes using organic, sustainable practices. Founded by Frank (a former IBM programmer and teacher) and Karen Graessle (previously an ultrasound tech) at their home in Warwick, they currently grow eight grape varietals on two acres of steep terrain. Being just as scientific and methodical as they are idealistic, the Graessles restraint and conservatism has served them well. In 2004, Frank says they “decided we had the perfect place for grapes.” They immediately enlisted the help of Steven McKay over at the Cornell Cooperative. “They did a soil analysis, gave us recommendations,” Frank explains. “We did a lot of research and reading. Based on Steve’s recommendations, my research and our own palates, we decided to plant seven hybrids and one vinifera, all grapes that we genuinely enjoyed drinking.” They planted their first grapes in 2007 and began bottling in 2009. Though they didn’t have a background in farming (Frank admits that he grew “a lot of zucchini and cucumbers in a vegetable patch, but that’s about it”), they were both committed to using 100% sustainable practices. The first year of bottling, they only managed 10, but the response was so phenomenal – they won gold in an amateur competition held by the Hudson Valley Wine and Grape Association – they knew they were onto something. The terrain at Clearview is unusually steep for the Hudson Valley, but the Graessles have used the incline to their advantage. “The slope helps get the water to the root of the plants,” Frank explains. “The only negative is we have to walk up and down the slope frequently because my wife and I do all the work. We have one part-time employee, but I am almost always in the field with my hands on the grapes.”
The Graessles have found that they don’t have a problem with bugs or pests, and they use two organic sprays for rot and mildew. Their wine, if grown and bottled in Europe or Canada would be officially labeled “organic,” but because New York State requires organic wines to be 100% sulfite-free, Clearview doesn’t qualify. “We only add 30 parts per million, and in Europe they allow 150 parts per million for whites and 100 for reds in organic wineries,” Frank notes. “Without sulfites, wine turns quickly. And just a little balances the flavor.”
About that flavor … While Clearview does grow one vinifera, Frank is passionately defensive of the quality of his hybrids. “Our hybrids can stand up to any vinifera,” he says. “And a lot of people don’t understand that viniferas are often hybrids too. They’re afraid of what they don’t know, but it’s just a matter of exposure and education. Once they try our wines, they love them – even if they don’t recognize the name of the grape it came from.” Clearview is currently bottling about 600 cases a year, and they think they’ll get up to 1,000 next year. They had an opportunity to buy an adjacent neighboring property and expand their vineyard, but the Graessles decided instead to build – sustainable, of course – a new tasting room and wine storage facility. Their wines are all created on-site, and Frank estimates that about 40% of the grapes they use are estate grown and 60% are from “the other” wine regions of the state. All of Clearview’s wines are food-friendly and delicious, but the estate-grown Noiret, Cayuga White, Divinity, and Traminette are particularly compelling. The Divinity is a new Cornell-developed hybrid (officially called NY81.0315.17). It’s a cross between a Cayuga White and a Riesling, that seems like it shouldn’t – but in Clearview’s hands, does – have floral and lightly spicy notes with an undercurrent of trademark Hudson Valley shale. Few vineyards grow the grape, but as more people taste Divinity, surely more winemakers will take the plunge. Clearview’s new tasting room – with 1,300 square feet reserved just for hanging out, tasting and watching the live music that plays on the weekends – is a great place to test Frank’s theories. While you’re there, ask for a tour of the vineyard and enjoy the 15 miles of views of West Point, Harriman State Park and three local mountains.
Millbrook Vineyards & Winery
illbrook has cultivated its eager fan base (it has won numerous accolades, including the Best Overall Hudson Valley Wine in 2013 from the Hudson Valley Wine competition for its Tocai Friulano and is referred to as the Hudson Valley’s “flagship winery” by the
New York Times) and its grapes in much the same way: by paying attention and making adjustments to their approach as conditions warrant. “We grow 100% vinifera grapes,” says David Bova, Millbrook’s general manager. “We decided from the beginning to grow grapes that people really want to drink.” Millbrook’s wine is currently cultivated on 35 of the winery’s roughly 115 acres. While the vineyard has been in place (with a few acres added on in recent years) since they opened in 1984, Bova tells HVWM that the placement of the varietals has shifted over the years to accommodate the characteristics of the soil, which has more clay in certain pockets and more shale in others. “We have been working with the same winemaker, John Graziano, since 1984,” Bova notes. “I think he may be the longest-running winemaker in the country. Because of our long history together, we’re able to really strategize and analyze the different grape varietals in a different way. John ferments each grape separately and we taste them side by side, along with the grapes we buy from North Fork and the Finger Lakes.” Millbrook started out growing Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, but found that their particular slice of Hudson Valley terroir did not allow the fruits to ripen as fully as they can on the North Fork. “Unripe fruit produces lousy wine,” Bova explains. “We are focused on producing grape varietals that can relate to the sun and hillsides we have here. Our vineyard is facing south and west so it has maximum exposure to the sun, which helps ripen vinifera grapes – they take longer to ripen than native grapes and hybrids. Our slope is important too – the bottom of our vineyard is 600 feet above sea level and the top is 950. www.hvwinemag.com • Summer 2014
It allows cold air to move and not settle, preventing damage from frost. And when the glaciers melted here, they left a huge deposit of gravel. Grape vines don’t like wet feet, and we have found that ours draw amazing flavor from our gravel-heavy soil.” Millbrook’s premier varietals are Chardonnay, Tocai Friulano and Cabernet Franc, Bova points out. (Millbrook also grows Riesling and Pinot Noir.) Millbrook’s “big three” are all cool-climate grapes. The realities of Hudson Valley weather make them lighter in alcohol and lighter on the palate than the same grapes grown out West. When they harvest their Chardonnay grapes, they are about 22-23 degrees Brix – the measure of sugar content in winemaking – and after fermentation, that translates to about 12-12.5% alcohol. Compare that to a typical Chardonnay harvest in California, where a Chardonnay will be about 25-26 degrees Brix at harvest, resulting in a 14.5-15.5% alcohol after fermentation. Those few degrees make a world of difference in flavor, Bova asserts. “Essentially, it is all about the fruit’s exposure to the sun and air, so we try to maximize that by hand-tying trellises and splitting canopies in two for greater exposure.” – David Bova
A few other distinctions have emerged as well, Bova explains. “We have our hands on each grape plant at least five times before harvest, pruning and examining each leaf and piece of fruit. Essentially, it is all about the fruit’s exposure to the sun and air, so we try to maximize that by hand-tying trellises and splitting canopies in two for greater exposure. When John ferments each grape individually and we taste them next to the grapes we also source from the North Fork and the Finger Lakes, the differences are fascinating.” Finger Lakes wines are universally aromatic on the nose, but light on the tongue, while grapes grown in Long Island have a lot of depth, but less on-the-nose aroma. “Ours have the aroma and the deep flavor,” Bova notes. “We’ve shifted the grapes around to take advantage of certain areas of our vineyard that have more clay, which lends the Cabernet Franc a lot of depth, whereas our Chardonnay blossoms beautifully with a great minerality in the shalier areas of our vineyard.” Millbrook uses about 50% of their own grapes and 50% from the North Fork and the Finger Lakes, split evenly, producing about 15,000 cases. Millbrook sees about 25,000 visitors every year, and they are committed to educating consumers, conducting in-depth tours of the vineyard, in addition to the standard sip-and-spit treatment. 4
HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer 2014
Perhaps even more laudably, Bova and his team are committed to helping other burgeoning wine geeks out there launch their own vineyards. “We have a wine boot camp,” Bova explained. “We always try to talk to anyone interested in starting their own vineyard. Our philosophy is, the more of us there are, the better it is for all of us – and the consumer. I’ll teach anyone who’s genuinely interested everything I know.”
recommendations for auspicious varietals. The family analyzed Cornell’s analysis, thought about their own tastes, their microclimate in New Paltz, and the market. “Our goal is to grow the best grapes we can, within certain parameters,” Ryan says. “The current vineyard is planted north to south, and all of our future plantings will be situated that way too, so they have a good exposure to the sun. We are too far from the Hudson to get the maritime influence, which can put us at a risk of freezing too much in the winter, but our summers are hotter so our grapes ripen faster. We also have a nice slope without too much angle, and our soil has a lot of shale and some clay, which can add depth to reds.” They decided to initially plant a FrenchAmerican hybrid, Vidal Blanc, for a white, and a vinifera, Cabernet Franc, for a red. The results – after waiting so many years – have been inspiring, Ryan adds. “We are planting four more acres. And we are open to planting vinifera, hybrids and even Hudson Valley native grapes. We’re still deciding.”
ometimes the new kids on the block are willing to take the biggest risks. Robibero Winery, owned by Harry and Carole Robibero, and managed by their daughter Tiffany, and son-in-law, Ryan Selby, is an unabashed family affair – and they’re the first ones to admit it. And like many family affairs, the logic of the proceedings may initially escape even the keenest of observers. “My background in wine primarily involved drinking it,” Ryan tells HVWM. “When Tiffany and I decided to quit our jobs and make wine, we had no idea what we were getting into. There is no ‘9 to 5’ in winemaking. But the experience has been amazing and I think that, because we’re new and green, we have taken risks and made discoveries and been able to explore the terroir of the Hudson Valley in a way that seasoned pros might not be able to.” The Robibero team planted one acre in 2009 as an experiment to explore grape varietals and figure out which ones flourished in their soil. They harvested the grapes last year and they’re just bottling the first estate-grown grapes this year, though they have been making and producing wines from the get-go with their winemaker Kristop Brown. Kristop learned the winemaking trade under Mark Miller at Benmarl Winery, and Ryan is learning it under his watchful eye as they go. Before planting, Robibero recruited Cornell to analyze their soil and give them
“Everyone in the family weighs in,” Ryan continues. “We have aunts, uncles, cousins, the whole Robibero crew down here on the weekends sampling our latest efforts and working in the vineyard. We do blind tastings with different percentages of varietals blended in. The favorite is the blend we choose.” “...because we’re new and green, we have taken risks and made discoveries and been able to explore the terroir of the Hudson Valley in a way that seasoned pros might not be able to.” – Ryan Selby
This year, Robibero will produce about 2,500 cases, using 10-15% of their own grapes, with the rest coming in from the North Fork and the Finger Lakes. Their 2012 Cabernet Franc won a double gold medal in the Hudson Valley Wine competition, but their 87 North, named after the NYS Thruway – a blend of Vidal Blanc and Cayuga White – and for the first time this year brimming with estategrown fruit, is Ryan’s favorite. “I can taste our terroir in it,” he explains. “It reflects the grapes of the entire state, which is why we named it after the Thruway, but you really get Hudson Valley terroir in every sip. The deep minerality, the shale. It’s a beautiful New York white.” The spirit of the winery is also fresh, young, unexpected and distinctively Hudson Valley.
udson-Chatham is the Lady Gaga of Hudson Valley wineries, transforming oddness into art. The winery was created, in a sense, to celebrate the terroir of the Hudson Valley. Founder Carlo DeVito who owns the winery with his wife Dominique is devoted to the history and tastes indigenous to the region. “Our winemaker Steve Casscles, collects grapes like Imelda Marcos collects shoes,” Carlo tells HVWM. “Steve has amazing grapes from his time at Benmarl in the 1970s. He started working there in high school and became fascinated by the variety of grapes we can grow in this region. We have five acres planted on site and Steve has his own vineyard across the river. He has 30-40 varieties growing on his farm. We are working together to bring back certain historic and heirloom grapes.” They have had the most commercial success with wines made from the obscure hybrid Chelois. Their Chelois Casscles Vineyard wine has appeared at a number of critically acclaimed restaurants from Manhattan to Albany, including restaurants at the Culinary Institute of America. Hudson-Chatham’s Baco Noir, another hybrid, is often likened to a Burgundy grand cru. While the DeVitos delight in planting grapes that defy expectations, they won’t plant grapes that don’t like their soil. “We will never plant Merlot,” Carlo said. “They don’t belong here. They thrive on Long Island, but they’ll never ripen properly in our vineyard.” Hudson-Chatham produces about 3,000 cases every year (up from 500 eight years ago when they opened) and receive regular raves and enough accolades to collapse a mantel (including a “Best in Category” from the Hudson Valley Wine competition for their Hudson River Valley Red, and a gold from the New York State Wine Competition for their Raspberry Fine Ruby). They bottle their own estate-grown grapes (about 85-90%), and then source the rest from the North Fork (like their Cabernet Franc) and the Finger Lakes (like their Riesling).
While most of their wines are devoted to teasing out the terroir of the Hudson Valley, some drill down further, teasing out the subtleties and magic of the flavor in their little patch of vineyard alone. “I’m a wine geek,” Carlo explains. “Our vineyard is on slopes and we’re rocky. We decided to celebrate it instead of fight it, so with our Field Stone Baco Noir, we used parts of an oak tree that fell down and rocks from our
farm and put them in a tank to sit with our grapes and age for 4-5 months. You really get a new level of minerality and a unique sense of place.”
Brookview Station Winery
Carlo is obviously proud to be making wine in the Hudson Valley. “It is a surprisingly cooperative business,” he notes. “We taste each other’s wines blind, share info on ingredients and techniques, loan each other equipment and lend a hand when necessary.”
he exploration of Hudson Valley terroir has led some winemakers to head down surprising paths. Brookview Station Winery, founded in 2006 as an extension of Goold Orchards, works with Frontenac, Marquette and Marechal Foch, vinifera hybrids known for their hardiness in cold weather and their intensely rich, sweet flavors.
hitecliff is in many ways the grand dame of the Hudson Valley wine scene. Created 35 years ago from the ground up by Michael and Yancey Migliore, it is rooted in the Hudson Valley and its unique terroir, but is inspired by the great European tradition of winemaking. The Migliores work closely with Cornell, testing their soil and growing traditional vinifera, but also branching out and testing alternatives on their 26 acres of vine sprawled in view of the Shawangunk mountain range. Michael, trained as an organic chemist, is renowned in the wine world for the truly European-style complexity and structure he has managed to entice out of the Hudson Valley soil. Awosting White is probably Whitecliff ’s most beloved example of their trademark Hudson Valley character filtered through a European sieve. The wine is a blend of Vignoles and Seyval Blanc to produce a Hudson Valley Heritage white with notes of dusky spice and minerality, with an assertive apricot tang. In total, Whitecliff boasts 20 varieties of vinifera and hybrid grapes with about 6,500 cases under production. They continue a long Hudson Valley tradition of hand-crafting small, artisanal batches of wines that consistently win awards.
“We converted one of our apple orchards to a vineyard,” Sue Goold Miller, the proprietor of Goold Orchards, explains. “We’re fairly close to the river, and we have rolling terrain that’s fabulous for grapes, but we are just too cold in the winter for delicate vines. We harvest everything by hand and we’re out there a lot, hand-pruning and making adjustments. We’ve found the grapes are very happy here.” Perhaps because of their background as an apple orchard, and their experience making hard cider (producing about 120,000 gallons a year), they were more open than many to exploring wines beyond the grape. Sue is quick to assert not only the level of sophistication and complexity she has achieved using less canonical grapes, but also the wonders of wines produced from other types of fruits. “For too long, the Hudson Valley has been seen as the Rodney Dangerfield of wine regions,” she said. “Critics and the public tend to kind of snicker and not take us seriously. But once they try our Frontenac, they change their tune. It’s surprisingly dry and smooth. And our apple wine and other fruit wines aren’t cloying, they’re clean and food-friendly. Fruit wines, too often, are seen by grapes snobs as an evil invention. But in the fifth century in Rome, they were considered the height of sophistication because grapes grow wild, whereas other fruits need to be cultivated. I think winemakers in the Hudson Valley are finally forcing people to take us seriously, and I think fruit wines are part of that.”
www.hvwinemag.com • Summer 2014
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Sparkling Wines Continuing the Tradition in the Hudson Valley J. Stephen Casscles parkling wines are festive wines that most people reserve for special occasions. Even those who do not drink wine will often drink them at weddings, graduations or to celebrate a job promotion. In my opinion, everyone should consider consuming sparkling wines more regularly to make even the most ordinary days seem more special.
The reason for this sweetness terminology, however, is counterintuitive. Since the 18th century people have prided themselves on liking and drinking only “dry” wines. By drinking “dry” wines, they attempted to convey to their peers a great sophistication in all matters. But in reality, most people, then as now, while articulating their preference for dry wines, tend to drink sweeter wines.
Sparkling wine production is an important part of New York’s wine history, with production in the Hudson Valley dating back to the late 19th century, beginning with Brotherhood Winery, the oldest winery in the U.S. Specific grape varieties were often cultivated on the east coast for making sparkling wines, including Delaware, Catawba, Elvira, the locally developed variety Dutchess, and more recently, Seyval Blanc and Chardonnay. The cool climate, and resulting high acids and low sugars of these grapes were ideal for producing sparkling wines, and New York “champagnes” dominated the domestic market in the years before Prohibition. In addition to Brotherhood, where the tradition continues today, the Hudson Valley Wine Company (later Regent Champagne Cellars) in Highland, and the Marlboro Imperial Cellars (later Windsor Vineyards) in Marlborough, made sparkling wines up until the 1970s.
Initially, most sparkling wines were what we would now call “Extra Dry” (dry) or “Brut” (very dry), however, to sell more wine, extra sugar was added to satisfy the demand for sweeter bubblies. Then, at some point, the sparkling wines that were being labeled as “Dry” eventually became sweeter in taste. To help customers distinguish a truly “Dry” sparkling wine, the term “Extra Dry” was used. Later on these “Extra Dry” wines gradually became sweeter to advance sales for those who said they preferred “Extra Dry” sparkling wines, but really wanted something sweeter. To help distinguish truly “Extra Dry” wines from those that gradually became sweeter, the term “Brut” was used. (In French, the term brut means very dry, rough, or raw). In any case, the same progression of producing sweeter sparkling wines then necessitated that an even dryer sparkling wine be designated, “Extra Brut,” and finally, “Au Natural,” meaning that the austere wine is bone dry, with absolutely no residual sugar.
Newest in the Hudson Valley is a line of sparkling wines produced under the North River label, which uses 100% estate grown Hudson River Region grapes fermented in the traditional French method.
Sparkling vs. Champagne The terms “sparkling wine” and “champagne,” however, have been used interchangeably over the centuries. Sparkling wine is the proper term for wine with dissolved carbon dioxide bubbles. Champagne is the proper term used to designate a sparkling wine that is produced geographically in the Champagne region of France (hence the name). As an aside, Champagne’s reputation for high quality was first established by the Benedictine Monk Dom Pérignon, cellar master of the Abbey Saint-Pierre of Hautvillers, who blended different grapes to produce superior wines, and instituted quality control measures to consistently improve their quality and renown. Outside of Champagne, in the rest of France, sparkling wine is called Mousseaux or Crémant. It is also known by several names throughout Europe — in Germany and Austria it is called Sekt; in Italy, Spumante; in Spain, Cava; and in Hungary, Pezsgo. The base white wine used for sparkling wines tends to be highly acidic and flinty so that it can stand up to and complement the effervescence. There are different sugar levels in sparkling wine – from the driest to the sweetest, the designations are: Au Natural, Extra Brut, Brut, Extra Dry, Dry, Demi-sec, and Sec.
Making Wine Sparkle There are several ways to produce sparkling wine. The most traditional, and highest quality method is known primarily as Méthode Champenoise, also called Méthode Traditionnelle, Méthode Classique, and the very descriptive “fermented in the bottle.” Using this technique, a bit of grape juice, or sugar with yeast, is added to a still base wine so that the yeast will have a food source to begin and complete a secondary fermentation. The addition of a sugar solution is called tirage. At this point, the still wine is placed in a thick-walled “champagne” bottle which has a punt (or indentation) at the bottom making it stronger and better able to withstand the pressure from the carbon dioxide gas that builds up during fermentation. The bottle is temporarily corked, wired, and placed on its side, and left to ferment and mature for some years. During the fermentation process, the added yeast secretes two by-products, alcohol and carbon dioxide, and since the wine is in an enclosed, pressure-resistant glass bottle, the gas cannot escape, causing it to dissolve into the liquid. (When the cork or cap is eventually removed, the dissolved gas escapes, hence the popping sound, and the bubbles.)
continued on page 54
JUST POPPED Some of the Hudson Valley’s newest sparkling wines: North River Méthode Champenoise Cuvée; New York Sparkling Wine and “B” Sparkling Chardonnay from Brotherhood, America’s Oldest Winery.
HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer 2014
Provence? No, itâ€™s Orange County Visit our Hudson Valley wineries and you'll feel like you've stepped into another country. And as long as you're here, stop by our craft breweries, distilleries, and cider mills. Come taste the flavors of Orange. A votre santĂŠ!
Call us for a free Winery Map
Talking Terroir Talking Traci L. Suppa
WHEN WE INTRODUCED this column last year, we began an endeavor to seek out informed opinions about the Hudson Valley wine scene. We’ve heard from wine educators, professional sommeliers, restaurateurs, and journalists. For this issue, I had the express privilege to hear from the multi-faceted Steven Kolpan, who has made wine his profession and passion. Kolpan is not only Professor and Chair of Wine Studies at The Culinary Institute of America (CIA) in Hyde Park, he has also authored several award-winning books, including WineWise, Exploring Wine, and A Sense of Place, a history of Napa Valley’s Niebaum-Coppola / Rubicon Winery. In 2007, Steven was named Wine Educator of the Year by the European Wine Council. Steven is a contributing editor and the wine columnist for The Valley Table magazine, and has been a member of Slow Food for 20 years. He makes his home just outside of Woodstock, has lived in the Hudson Valley for more than 35 years, since graduating from SUNY New Paltz.
STEVEN KOLPAN Q: You’ve been a judge at the Hudson Valley Wine & Grape Association’s wine competition several times. What have you noticed about the growth of Hudson Valley wines? Is there one particular varietal or wine that shows promise? A: There is no doubt that, overall, wines produced in the Hudson Valley, especially wines that are both grown and produced here (formally the Hudson River Region American Viticultural Area/AVA), are getting better. Some of the wines can be extraordinary. Even those wines made from purchased fruit grown in other parts of the state or country have a lot to recommend them. I must say that when it comes to a particular varietal that shows a lot of promise, I choose Cabernet Franc. I’ve tasted some amazing wines made from this grape over the last few years. Q: You’ve said that some of the best Riesling in the world comes from the Finger Lakes. What would you recommend the Hudson Valley do to garner this type of attention? A: I recently wrote an article for The Valley Table about the possibility of a “signature grape” for the Hudson River Region AVA. There is something of an informal split or bifurcation among Hudson Valley winemakers. Some producers focus on vitis vinifera grapes (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, etc.), while others produce wines made from hybrid grapes (Seyval Blanc, Baco Noir, Chelois). Some work with both vinifera and hybrids, some with one or the other. continued on page 10 8
HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer 2014
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ADVENTURES IN FOOD & WINE PAIRING; DISCOVERING NEW HUDSON VALLEY CULT CLASSICS Wendy Crispell,
hen it comes to artisan food and beverage production the Hudson Valley is a hot bed of activity. Whether the craftsmen and women are transplants looking to return to their roots, or victims of the downturn, turned small business owners, one thing is for sure—the variety and quality of products being produced by these upstarts is mind-boggling. While the region has long been known for boutique wine production, a new wave of distilleries, mead, cider, and beer producers are popping up all over the Valley. On the food front, everything from bean to bar chocolatiers to saucier’s recreating ancient family recipes are appearing in record numbers. Many of these uniquely Hudson Valley products can turn an average pairing into an extraordinary experience; adding an unexpected flavor to your favorite routine can bring new interest and shake things up a bit! The following are just a few of my recent favorites, served up with suggested cheeses made by local dairies. Try one of these selected pairings, or experiment with other combinations to find your own Hudson Valley cult classic pairing.
Fruition Chocolate | Shokan DARK MILK CHOCOLATE WITH FLEUR DE SEL
Bryan Graham heads up the operation of this small batch bean to bar chocolate workshop located in the Catskill Mountains of New York. With meticulous attention to detail, he slowly roasts and stone grinds carefully selected cocoa beans to accentuate their inherent flavor. Graham has quickly gained fame in the
world of chocolate; recently he was named one of the top ten chocolatiers in North America by Dessert Professional Magazine. I was first introduced to Graham’s delicious chocolates at a wine, cheese and chocolate event I hosted in Manhattan. Paired with a sparkling Chardonnay and an ash-aged goat cheese, this bar, straddling the flavors of milk and dark chocolate, was divine. The addition of the crunchy sea salt studding this delicious chocolate tied the pairing together – purely divine! Try it with your favorite local sparkling and a creamy goat cheese. Baron’s International Kitchen West Hurley PORTUGUESE REPOLHO RELISH
I first tasted Baron’s International Kitchen’s amazing relish at the New York City Hot Sauce Expo, an event that featured all levels of heat for lovers of fiery foods. Terry Baron, a native of the Hudson Valley, crafts a flavorful line of sauces, marinades and condiments inspired by secret family recipes. Her Portuguese Repolho Relish is the perfect accompaniment to sharp, full-flavored cheeses including New York sharp cheddars, aged Gouda, and funky washed rind offerings. With just the right balance between sweet and spicy this relish, made from a blend of Western European and Moroccan flavors, is addictive. Helderberg Meadworks | Duanesburg HERITAGE MEAD
Peter Voelker is producing a line of mead wines with atypical aging and production methods. Use of oak casks, lack of filtering, and higher alcohol levels all contribute to a premium beverage that more closely resembles an off-dry sherry or tawny-style port. This slightly unctuous delight is perfect with a spicy blue cheese; consider a raw milk style from Tonjes Dairy in Callicoon, NY.
LunaGrown Jams | Cuddebackville RICA BARREJA
Rica Barreja, meaning “wealthy blend,” is LunaGrown’s signature blend of fresh Valley-grown fruit and vanilla bean cooked to perfection using natural sugars, with no artificial additives or preservatives. LunaGrown jams have an Old-World style that tastes like they’re made by a doting granny toiling in her kitchen. Rica Barreja is no exception, full of sweet and savory notes, it’s a perfect slather on crusty bread topped with a bloomy rind cheese. Think Kunik from Nettle Meadows Farm or Margie from Sprout Creek Farm, some of my favorite cheeses made in the Valley. Catskill Distillery | Bethel OMMEGANG SINGLE MALT
Last winter I stumbled upon Catskill Distillery on a blustery, snowy drive through Sullivan County. Owners Monte Sachs and Stacy Cohen quickly warmed me with tastes of their craft distillates as well as their enthusiastic spirit. Tasting through their selection of vodka, gin and whiskeys, they shared a sneak preview of their new project in partnership with Ommegang, the Belgian-style craft brewer located in Cooperstown. A specialty, single malt whiskey made with mash from Hennepin (Ommegang’s farmhouse saison ale), is being aged to perfection in Catskill’s cask room, “flavored with grains of paradise, ginger, coriander and orange peel.” This is something I can’t wait to try. Whiskeys of this style paired with hard, aged cheeses are heaven, especially when accented with an earthy, spicy jam like LunaGrown’s Rica Barreja or a savory relish like Baron Kitchen’s Portuguese Repolho!
www.hvwinemag.com • Summer 2014
continued from page 8
I think that if Hudson Valley wine producers want to bring attention to the great work they are doing, they will have to decide if they want to work together to make a wine from a signature grape – or grapes – and then promote the wine or wines both in the Valley and well beyond. My choices: for vinifera, Cabernet Franc; for hybrids, Seyval Blanc. This will take teamwork, and create an especially large learning curve for wine lovers to learn and appreciate Seyval Blanc. It will be up to the wine producers if they think this is a good idea. Q: What should Hudson Valley winemakers focus on to really highlight the terroir here? Several regional wines have been receiving decent ratings—in the high 80s—in magazines like Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast. Do you ever see a time when they will be consistently breaking the 90s? A: Wines don’t need a report card. I don’t like rating or grading wines. My mantra is “Trust Your Own Palate.” Those of us who taste wine professionally have experience and hopefully some expertise, but each of us has only one palate – our own. I really don’t care if a wine gets an 81 or a 95, and neither should folks who enjoy wine. You can learn as much from a wine you don’t like as you can from a wine that you love. Highlighting the terroir of the Hudson River region has everything to do with the soils, the climate, and the passion of the people growing the grapes and making the wine. How do you assign a number to the product of that kind of work? You shouldn’t. Unless you are training as a wine professional, you should taste the wine, preferably with a delicious and appropriate food pairing, relax and enjoy with friends and family. Q: What wineries do you see as being in the forefront of winemaking in the Hudson Valley? A: I would have to say that Millbrook continues to set the standard for wineries that make vinifera-based wines. But there are many others who make outstanding wines from both vinifera and hybrid grapes, including Whitecliff, Hudson-Chatham, Clinton, Bashakill, Palaia, Benmarl, Cereghino Smith, and Robibero. Q: Do you help select the wines served at the CIA restaurants? Are local wines becoming more popular in these restaurants? Are CIA students embracing the local beverages as they do locally-grown food? A: I am a member of a tasting panel that selects wines for both the public restaurants and the wine classes at the CIA. And yes, there is great interest from our restaurant guests as well as our students in the wines produced in the Hudson River region. We encourage our students to follow their “locavore” instincts when it comes to both wine and food, and they are often pleasantly surprised by the quality of our local wines. Q: As we approach summer, what wines are you most looking forward to enjoying in the warm weather? What local food and wine/spirits pairings do you enjoy? A: Really, the match of local sweet corn with (hopefully local) Chardonnay is a revelation. Served with a very flavorful, rich fish dish – salmon, tuna, swordfish, etc. – continued on page 11 10
HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer 2014
OF THE HUDSON VALLEY
he start of a new season means a resurgence of activity for Hudson Valley’s craft beverage producers. With all there is to do in the vineyards and in the cellar this time of year, producers are also busy at events throughout the region, sharing their new releases after last year’s bountiful harvest. The Hudson Valley yielded a plethora of quality fruit that the region has not seen in a number of years, and that is reflecting in some exciting new releases ready to try this season.
Summer brings out the best of almost everything, and everyone, in the Hudson Valley. Get out and let your tastebuds relish the creativity and get reinvigorated!
It’s also an exciting time in the Hudson Valley as we are seeing more collaboration happening between beverage producers. Distillers are working with winemakers to produce spirits from leftover grapeskins, brewers are re-using aged barrels from local distillers, and distillers are reciprocating by using brewers’ mash to create new spirits. These are just a few examples of the type of creativity and ingenuity that fuels the artisanal spirit in the Hudson Valley, and what is spurring others to join the beverage revolution here too. And, this all translates to more authentic Hudson Valley terroir in every sip you taste.
Some of these new products are presented on the following pages, but look for more of them offered at the tasting bars all year long (or until they are sold out). You’ll also find new vintages of old favorites, and limited releases that are destined to become new favorites. Throughout the region this year you’ll find more hard ciders, new meads, and fresh spirited offerings by distillers, including some newly-opened. And of course plenty of fresh craft brews.
WINERIES, DISTILLERIES & BREWERIES
Q: You’ve also written about hard apple ciders. Where does the Hudson Valley stand as a cider producer? Which regional cider products do you enjoy? A: I think hard cider production in the Hudson Valley will see steady growth, but largely on the artisanal, smallproduction level. Having said that, the largest cider producer in New York State is Orange County’s Warwick Valley Winery and Distillery, makers of Doc’s Draft Ciders. Smaller producers, such as Breezy Hill, Applewood, Kettleborough, and Annandale make some very good ciders; refreshing, well-balanced, low in alcohol, and fun. My personal favorite is Aaron Burr Cider, because the focus of the cider is not on “eating” apples, but on “cider” apples, which owners Andy and Polly both grow and forage. Fifty to one hundred different types of wild apples that are ideal for cider, but just about inedible find their way into the blend. Aaron Burr is incredibly distinctive, dry as a bone, and a very special treat.
or with roasted or grilled poultry, the corn “pops” and matches both the intensity level of the Chardonnay and complements its fruity but earthy flavor. Good choices: Whitecliff, Millbrook, and Robibero. I also enjoy Seyval Blanc with spicy Asian or Latin dishes, Cabernet Franc with roasted white meats, Traminette with semisoft cheeses, and Pinot Noir with just about everything.
THE HUDSON VALLEY
KEY TO SYMBOLS:
Shawangunk Wine Trail
Dutchess Wine Trail
Columbia Hudson-Chatham Winery ........40 Rensselaer Brookview Station Winery .......42 Meadery Helderberg Meadworks ...........44 Distilleries Harvest Spirits .........................46 Hillrock Estate Distillery ...........48 Tuthilltown Spirits Distillery......50 Brewery Crossroads Brewing Company NEW! ....................52
Hudson Berkshire Beverage Trail
www.hvwinemag.com • Summer 2014
Ulster Baldwin Vineyards ...................24 Benmarl Winery .......................26 Brimstone Hill Vineyard ...........28 Glorie Farm Winery .................30 Robibero Winery......................32 Stoutridge Vineyard .................34 Whitecliff Vineyard...................36
Dutchess Millbrook Vineyards & Winery..38
Orange Applewood Winery ..................12 Brotherhood Winery ................14 Clearview Vineyard .................16 Demarest Hill Winery & Distillery NEW! ......................18 Palaia Vineyards ......................20 Warwick Valley Winery & Black Dirt Distillery ...............22
TO MAKE OUR WINES we tie vines to trellises, we anxiously await the arrival of Spring, pull hoses with our hands, lift bins of grapes, gently fill bottles and cheerfully bring our wine to you.
MEET THE WINEMAKERS
Join us at Applewood Winery, in the heart of the historic Hudson Valley! Come discover the oldest working farm in Orange County and one of the oldest west of the Hudson River. The Hull family and their friends began planting apple and peach trees in former pastures in 1949. In 1994 the winery was created and vineyards planted. Remarkably, the vistas from the vineyards today have changed little from the time before George Washington was born.
Jonathan and Michele Hull are the owners of Applewood Winery. Jonathan grew up on the farm and moved to New York City to attend NYU. When he met Michele, his idea of a gourmet meal was takeout. Michele worked at the famous Windows on The World restaurant and was wise in the ways of food and wine. She decided to polish this diamond in the rough and he was a willing pupil. Living in New York City at the time was a great learning experience but Jonathan yearned to return to his agricultural roots.
When we first started making wine we had two goals in mind: Making some really great quality wines and having as much fun as possible doing so. We want to share our passion for wine with you and make it an easy, enjoyable experience for you, your friends and your family. Wineries in the Hudson Valley invite you to slow down. Take time to enjoy wine, and yourself. When you visit Applewood you get to taste wine right where it comes from.
WHITE WINES RIESLING SEYVAL/CHARDONNAY SEYVAL/CHARDONNAY RESERVE SUMMER FIELDS TRAMINETTE VIDAL WAWAYANDA WHITE
When you visit APPLE BLOSSOM BLUSH
Applewood, you get to RED WINES
You’ll find we champion the underdogs of the wine world. Come look beyond the culture of Merlot as synonymous with red and Chardonnay with white, reducing wine to a franchise with no uniqueness or sense of place. You’ll find plenty of true connoisseurs in the tasting room of Applewood. People who know what they like and don’t need some wine critic’s review to justify it. The wine is not expensive or French, and you don’t need to know an insider to get it, which may disappoint some folks… We talk about food constantly in our tasting room, almost as much as we talk about our wines. It’s difficult to mention one without the other. Instead of “just talk” we offer a universe of wine experiences, food pairing weekends, tasting classes, a Summer Café and of course you can just hang out and enjoy the wine and listen to live music in the courtyard. It gives all of us at Applewood Winery great pleasure to share with you our harvest of wine. Newcomers to the world of wine learn in a comfortable setting and even the most jaded imbiber will find a rich and complex tasting experience.
HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer 2014
CABERNET FRANC HARVEST TIME I N T E R N AT I O N A L R E D MERLOT OBR (OAK BARREL RESERVE)
FRUIT WINES BLACKBERRY BLUEBERRY RUBY’S KISS
CIDERS NAKED FLOCK HARD CIDER (Original, Draft, Pumpkin, Citra, Cassis)
taste wine right where it comes from... With his newfound love of wine to inspire him, one day Jonathan hit on the idea of opening a winery on the family farm. And like Eva Gabor, Michele was swept away to the country and the vision became a bucolic reality. The prodigal son returned home and opened the winery with Michele’s gracious hand guiding the tasting room. She’s been welcoming guests to the tasting room for 15 years now. “My goal is to make some great wines that are unique to New York and the Hudson Valley that express true life and character,” Jonathan says, “If that doesn’t work, I’ll just hang out under a tree and slurp some Riesling.”
IN THE SPOTLIGHT NAKED FLOCK FLIES HIGH WITH A CITRA HOPPED CIDER!
Citra Hopped Cider pours like a sparkling wine, aggressive with tight, tiny bubbles. Pristine and brilliantly clear, it takes on several shades of gold. The first sensation hits the nose with an explosion of hops – initially tropical fruits such as pineapple and kiwi, then light notes of fresh apple, followed by a whisper of white grapes. It ends with a mineral finish. Citra Hopped Cider is dry (but not bone dry) and mediumbodied with just enough acidity to give it character. A great year-round cider that pairs well with spicy foods, such as Thai, Indian, and Asian fusion cuisines.
NAKED FLOCK HARD CIDERS CONTINUE TO GROW
Original and Draft Cider is currently available. Pumpkin is available during the fall. A cider/wine blend and an ice cider will be released in 2014. Naked Flock is currently available in bars, restaurants, and shops, at special events that celebrate the craft beverage movement across New York State, and has now made the flight into New Jersey!
OWNERS Jonathan and Michele Hull
ADDRESS 82 Four Corners Road Warwick, NY 10990
WINEMAKER Jonathan Hull
EVENTS (Check website and Facebook for new
EMAIL firstname.lastname@example.org WEBSITE www.applewoodwinery.com OPEN Mar–Dec: Fri–Sun, 11am–5pm July & Aug: Fri & Sun, 11am–5pm; Sat, 11am–6pm TASTING FEES $6 per person
releases and unplanned wine and food pairings)
Free Music in the Courtyard every Sat & Sun 2–5PM. Cider Café open for lunch Sat & Sun 12–4:30pm Naked Flock Free Summer Concert Series every Saturday in July & August, 2-5pm. Rain or Shine Aug 2–3 BBQ & Blues featuring Master BBQ
Chef Dan Lemire and his Big Red Smoker. Blues all day Sat & Sun,12–5pm
Nov 1–2 6th Annual Hudson Valley Hard Cider Experience. Naked Flock Cider, wine & craft beer tasting, seasonal food pairings created by our in-house chef, and live music. 12–5pm.
FROM NYC & NJ: Take the New York State Thruway (I-87) North to Exit 16 Harriman (Woodbury Commons), then Rt. 17 West to Exit 127 Greycourt Rd. Follow signs to Sugar Loaf then Warwick, Cty. Rt. 13. Three miles past Sugar Loaf, turn right on Four Corners Road, go 1 mile. Travel time 1 hour from George Washington Bridge.
VINEYARD APPLEWOOD WINERY
ACREAGE 10 acres PRODUCTION 10,000 cases
FROM ALBANY, KINGSTON, NEWBURGH & CONNECTICUT: Take the New York State Thruway (I-87) South to Exit 16 Harriman (Woodbury Commons). Then same as above.
www.hvwinemag.com • Summer 2014
BROTHERHOOD, AMERICA’S OLDEST WINERY
“MILESTONE” WOULD BE THE WORD that keeps coming up in conversations regarding Brotherhood, America’s Oldest Winery this year. In 2014, we celebrate our 175th anniversary! What started as a small business for a cobbler named Jean Jaques grew into what we now know as America’s Oldest Winery. Jean’s first commercial vintage was produced in 1839, and having survived Prohibition, Brotherhood is the oldest winery in continuous operation. WHITE WINES We are very proud of our story, and what better way to celebrate it than to put it in writing? We are pleased to have partnered with Robert Bedford and Linda Pierro from Flint Mine Press (publishers of this fine magazine!) who have spearheaded this monumental project. The Story of Brotherhood, America’s Oldest Winery will be released this summer and available for purchase at the winery, at local and major book retailers, and online. Robert Bedford has painstakingly combed through thousands of articles, artifacts, stories, myths, personal accounts, ledger books, press releases, and old, moldy ephemera to weave together the fascinating account of The Story of Brotherhood, America’s Oldest Winery. The way Bob has delivered this amazing story in such concise and easy-to-read chapters is rivaled only by the beautifully articulated layout by Linda Pierro. In addition to the book, we will be installing a new visual exhibit in our underground cellars for visitors to experience during their historic cellar tours. The panels in this new installation mirror some of the history that is covered in The Story of Brotherhood, America’s Oldest Winery. Please check our website and Facebook page for book launch and museum exhibit opening dates!
CHARDONNAY DRY RIESLING RIESLING
RED WINES CABERNET SAUVIGNON MERLOT PINOT NOIR
SPARKLING BLANC DE BLANCS SPARKLING WINE GRAND MONARQUE (Limited Release)
We began this year by receiving statements from Lt. Governor Duffy, Senator Kirsten Gillibrand and Congressman Sean RUBY PORT Patrick Maloney congratulating Brotherhood on our accomplishments throughout history, and our significant role in the wine industry in New York State and the nation. We have made such significant improvements to our facility over the past eight years with the addition of a solar energy module, upgraded wine making facilities, increased tank and barrel storage capacities, the addition of Vinum Café, and renovation of our owner’s mansion, tasting room, and Grand Monarque Hall, our catering facility. Over the past two years, Grand Monarque Hall has proven to be THE premier destination in the Hudson Valley to host a wedding or special event. This spring, Brotherhood was honored to receive an award from SUNY’s Small Business Development Center as the Exporter of the Year due to our increased presence in the global marketplace, as well as an award from the NYS Small Business Administration. We also are celebrating the release of our NEW YORK line of wines. The labels are a nod to the “city that never sleeps” and portray some of New York’s most iconic silhouettes against a variety of night (or early morning) skies. By utilizing world-class vinifera and hybrid varieties that are known to grow well in the Hudson Valley, we are able to showcase both in each blend, and offer flavorful, affordable wines that are grown and produced in New York. We will be hosting our annual events all season, and this year, Brotherhood will be hosting the Shawangunk Wine Trail’s Bounty of the Hudson event on July 26th and 27th from 12–5pm. We hope to see you this summer so you can celebrate our many milestones with us!
PHOTOS: Tomas Donoso
HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer 2014
MEET THE WINEMAKERS Cesar Baeza began his early winemaking days at Brotherhood in 1976. After traveling to some of the most notable wine regions in the world as an agro-engineer and enologist, Cesar returned to Brotherhood in 1987 to re-introduce vinifera varieties to the New York scene. Cesar has over 40 years of experience world-wide working in a number of countries including Spain, France, Russia, South America and areas in Eastern Europe. Mark Daigle is our production manager, engineer, and is also referred to as “The Fixer”. When Mark isn’t keeping our bottling lines running smoothly, he can often be found in the workshop, operating heavy equipment and supervising the production lines. Mark’s extensive background includes working in the vineyards of Chappelet in Napa Valley, Maison Bertrand Novack in Champagne, France, and in the cellars at Chanson Pere èt Fils in Beaune, France. His global winemaking experience, dedication, unique talents, and over 30 years of experience at Brotherhood is a critical component to our wine making team. Winemaker Bob Barrow, who works directly with Mark and Cesar, graduated from Virginia Tech with a BS in Biology and a Chemistry Minor in 1998. He worked both in the vineyard and the winery at Williamsburg Winery in Virginia before starting at Brotherhood in 1999. A native of Dutchess County, Bob spends his time in the lab and the cellars creating Brotherhood’s blends, and riddling or disgorging our Méthode Champenoise sparkling wine. In the fall, he can be found on the crush pad with Mark, pressing the tons of grapes that Brotherhood processes every year.
IN THE SPOTLIGHT B SPARKLING
This is a must-have for your next elegant affair as it compliments every lady’s favorite things. It’s perfect for the warm summer months and is a brunch basic! Enjoy on its own or with fresh- squeezed OJ, Cassis or Elderflower liqueur for an extra essence of flavor. Pair with omelettes, salads, shellfish and fried foods. Awarded Best Sparkling Wine at the Hudson Valley Wine & Grape Association competition.
N E W YO R K S PA R K L I N G W I N E
As the highlight of our newly released NEW YORK line, this sparkling wine is light, fruity and has persistent bubbles. The price point is perfect for that girl’s night out as it won’t break the bank and is still big on flavor without being overwhelming. Highly recommended for limo rides into the city that never sleeps before your big bachelorette party or special occasion!
THE ESSENTIALS VINEYARD BROTHERHOOD WINERY
PRODUCTION 50,000 cases
ADDRESS 100 Brotherhood Plaza Drive Washingtonville, NY 10992
OWNER Chadwick, Castro and Baeza Families
PHONE 845-496-3661 FAX 845-496-8720 EMAIL email@example.com WEBSITE www.brotherhood-winery.com OPEN April–Dec: Sun–Fri, 11am–5pm Sat, 11am–7pm Jan–Mar: Sun–Fri, 11am–5pm
GETTING HERE FROM NYS THRUWAY (I-87): Take Exit 16 Harriman, go through toll plaza to Rt. 17W to exit 130. Take 208 North to Rt. 94 in Washingtonville. Make a right at the light on Rt. 94 and at the next light make a left on Brotherhood Plaza Drive. Brotherhood is on end of road on left.
WINEMAKERS Mark Daigle, Bob Barrow
EVENTS (check website for more information) Live Music in the Courtyard weekend afternoons June 12 Wine and Beer Festival, 1pm Aug 23 Wine & Sangria Pig Roast Festival, 1pm
Sept–Oct Grapestomping, 1–5pm
Oct 25 Dec 5
every weekend after Labor Day through mid–Oct Halloween Costume Ball, 8pm Annual Tree Lighting, 7pm Free, fun for the whole family!
CLOSED Thanksgiving, Christmas Day, New Year’s Day
MANAGER Hernan Donoso, President
TASTING FEE $7 with glass TOURS $10 tour, tasting and glass ACREAGE 40 acres
www.hvwinemag.com • Summer 2014
KAREN WANTED TO BE A FARMER and Frank “thought” he was retired. That’s how it started. We set out to make quality wines from organically grown grapes. No easy task. First we needed the property. Wanting to be close to family and friends we decided on Warwick, a farm-friendly town familiar to Karen since her youth. Finding a great spot, we moved here in October 2004. We WHITE WINES asked Steven McKay, the Small Fruit & Grapes Extension Educator from Cornell Cooperative Extension to visit our ESTATE property and give us some advice. After having dirt core CAYUGA WHITE samples evaluated, it became apparent that this was an ideal ESTATE DIVINIT Y site for grape vines. A heavily-wooded, two-and-a-half acre ( NY81) section was cleared with the help of Mark Malosay, a local landscape expert. The following year, in 2007, we purchased ESTATE S E Y VA L B L A N C a John Deere tractor, put down three tons of lime, three-bottom plowed, rototilled, dug more than nine ESTATE TRAMINETTE hundred holes, and with the help of family and friends ESTATE planted nine hundred grape vines on our sloping hillside.
In the spring of 2008 we began putting up the steel trellis system, and a seven-foot-high fence around the vineyard. The vines started to grow fast and we took off most of the fruit as fast as we could, putting energy back into the vines. We harvested a small amount of the Cayuga White grapes and made our first ten bottles of wine. Karen personally crushed them with her feet and we squeezed the grapes through cheese cloth and fermented the juice in glass carboys. The following year we received a Gold award for that wine in the amateur competition of the Hudson Valley Wine and Grape Association. Since then we have received seven awards for our wines.
RED WINES ESTATE BACO NOIR ESTATE CABERNET FRANC CABERNET FRANC CABERNET SAUVIGNON MERLOT MONET (Bordeaux-style
Our New York State Liquor License arrived on August 26, blend) 2010 and we began selling our wines under a canopy ESTATE NOIRET outdoors. The following year we joined the Florida Farmers Market. Then in the summer of 2012 we broke ground for our 3,800 square-foot winery, and the new wine tasting facility is open. The new building will allow us to produce more wine of an even higher quality. We will be open every Saturday and Sunday, from April to December, 12pm to 5pm, with live music from 2pm to 5pm. The new facility will be available for rentals for up to 88 people inside, and another 50 people on our beautiful covered porch. We will be selling our dry wines, as well as wines and hard apple ciders from other wineries in the Hudson Valley. Free tours of the winery and vineyard will be available. Clearview Vineyard is also proud to announce they are new members of the Shawangunk Wine Trail! From the sweat of our brow and from our hearts to yours, we hope you enjoy our little slice of heaven – Clearview Vineyard.
HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer 2014
MEET THE WINEMAKERS Frank was an educator for 29 years teaching programing, computer applications and retailing, and retired in 2001. Karen has 36 years of work experience as a sonographer, consultant and sales associate, presently working in a large cardiovascular practice in the Hudson Valley. Both Frank and Karen are avid hikers, campers, motorcyclists, skiers, and work out regularly. They have both climbed mountains in Vermont and Alaska, and all 46 high peaks in the Adirondack Mountains making them official “46er’s.” Frank served in the United States Air Force, is an Assistant Scoutmaster and an officer with the Knights of Columbus. “We wanted to establish a business that reflected our love of learning, business skills and adventurous spirit. We also love to relax and enjoy good wine. So, we combined the two.” They attend many seminars, field demonstrations, and get help from fellow vintners including the experts at Cornell Cooperative and their good friend Paul Deninno, owner and operator of BashaKill Vineyards. “It takes experience and help to produce truly great wines,” says Frank. “We strive for the best, learn from our mistakes and keep on trucking,” adds Karen. Today, Clearview Vineyard produces twelve different dry wines – eight estate and four from Long Island grapes. Five hundred cases of wine are available for sale this year. The new winery will now allow plans for 1,200 cases next year and about 2,000 cases in 2015. “With the help of family, friends, laborers, apprentices and a lot of help from God, we offer you Clearview Vineyard and wines, and a promise to keep improving and creating quality.”
IN THE SPOTLIGHT MONET
Monet is a Bordeaux-style blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot that we made for the first time in 2011. The wine is a smooth, full-bodied red wine with a long finish that pairs well with beef, a number of cheeses, and many hearty meals. The wine was named after our cat “Monet,” whose picture is on the label.
E STAT E S E Y VA L B L A N C
The Estate Seyval Blanc is a full-bodied, dry white wine made from our organically-grown grapes. It has aromas of apples, citrus and melons and is often compared to Sancerre which is produced in France’s Loire region.
VINEYARD CLEARVIEW VINEYARD
MANAGER Frank and Karen Graessle
ADDRESS 35 Clearview Lane Warwick, NY 10990
WINEMAKERS Frank and Karen Graessle
PHONE 845-651-2838 EMAIL firstname.lastname@example.org WEBSITE www.clearviewvineyard.com OPEN Sat–Sun, 12–5pm
M E R LOT CLOSED Christmas through March TASTING FEES $5.00 includes 11oz. wine glass TOURS Free ACREAGE 10 acres PRODUCTION 600 cases
GETTING HERE Clearview Vineyard is only 12 minutes south of Route 17 in Chester, NY and 18 minutes from Woodbury Commons. FROM NYS THRUWAY (I-87): Exit 16, the “Woodbury/Route 17” exit. Stay on Route 17 West for 9.1 miles to Exit 126 and turn left onto Route 94. Go 4.3 miles until you come to a light in the Village of Florida and turn left. Continue 2.7 miles until you see Garden State Koi on your right and then drive another 100 yards and turn right at the Clearview Vineyard sign. Go 400 feet to the end of the road and enter the iron gate to the winery.
Our Merlot was also produced for the first time in 2011 from grapes grown in the North Fork of Long Island. We buy the grapes and bring them to our winery and produce the wine here. The wine has a rich, full aroma with a smoky/earthy taste and a long finish. It goes great with lamb, duck, and many robust foods.
EVENTS (check website for more information) For a complete list of events visit: www.shawangunkwinetrail.com Live music every weekend! 2–5 pm
OWNER Frank and Karen Graessle
www.hvwinemag.com • Summer 2014
DEMAREST HILL WINERY AND DISTILLERY
DEMAREST HILL WINERY is the largest winery in Warwick, New York, stocking 40 varieties of wine and 34 types of liquor and brandy. Demarest Hill also produces a line of vinegars including Balsamico, Bombito and Apple. The winery, located upon a beautiful hilltop at 81 Pine Island Turnpike, is home to the owner, Francesco Ciummo and his wife, Orietta, which they have built together from the ground up. The estate exhibits a gorgeous view of the valley, perfect for picnic lunches in the summer or a relaxing weekend getaway. Demarest Hill Winery is open from 11am to 6pm daily, except on major holidays. Demarest Hill entered the Finger Lakes International Wine Competition in 2012 for the first time, and the winery received a silver medal for Cherry Brandy, along with three other bronze medals. In 2013, Demarest Hill Winery won a bronze medal from The Big E in Connecticut for their Peach Wine, and a silver medal for the Porto Fino Ice Wine. In 2014 the winery won two silver medals for their Grappa and Grape Vodka from the East Meets West International Wine Competition, just to name a few of their awards. What started out as merely a passion of the owner is now a fruitful business, growing each year as the Master Vintner invents new creations. Demarest Hill Winery brings a taste of Southern Italy to the Hudson Valley Region.
The estate exhibits a gorgeous view of the valley, perfect for picnic lunches in the summer or a relaxing weekend getaway.
MEET THE WINEMAKER
SPARKLING GOLD DRY SPUMANTE SWEET AURORA CHARDONNAY SUPREME RIESLING WHITE GOLD CHENIN BLANC CHENIN BLANC SWEET WARWICK SUNSET MUSCADELL WHITE ZINFANDEL PEACH WINE STRAWBERRY WINE CHERRY WINE APPLE WINE PORTO FINO WHITE SUPER SANGRIA APPLE CIDER AL RUM DANDELION WINE PINOT GIGI
The winemaker, Francesco Ciummo, tells quite the tale of his accomplishments in a chronological fashion:
RED WINES FC RESERVE CABERNET SAUVIGNON VICTORIA MERLOT WARWICK BLACK PEARL BACCHUS NOIR EVENING RED WA R W I C K R U B Y R E D RED BOUCHET RED CLASSICO RED ZINFANDEL ROSE CABERNET PINOT NOIR PORTO FINO
PORT/CIDER HARD CIDER APPLE PORT
HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer 2014
“I am Francesco Ciummo, the owner, winemaker, distiller, and seller of this establishment. I was born, one of five brothers, in the little town of Molise, Italy, where I worked on my family farm and vineyard. At 17 years old, I traveled to Abruzzi and learned how to graft vines. At age 18, all of our vines were destroyed by phylloxera, and my family was forced to replant. In 1955, at age 20, I left my family and immigrated to Belgium, where I worked in a coal mine to earn a living. Three years later I immigrated to Venezuela, where I worked in Caracas for three years learning the auto body trade. In 1961, at age 26, I came to the US and found work in an auto body shop. After working for several years, I bought a body shop in Bergenfield, NJ, and worked there until I retired at age 53. In 1980, I bought 135 acres in Warwick, NY, and in 1982 built my house. Ten years later, bored of retirement, the Caterpillar and I started to clear the land, and I planted the vines. I had been making wine for my family for years, but in 1998 I opened the winery for the public. In 2006, I purchased distillation equipment from Germany to make my own spirits. I create all the wines, liquors and brandies I now sell. My grandson, Nicholas, age 18, is assisting me now and learning the business. He works everyday at the winery and attends college as a full-time student. Everything I have done was with the cooperation of my beautiful wife, Orietta. Everyone should visit Demarest Hill Winery, the beautiful place I have, one of the treasures of the Hudson Valley.”
IN THE SPOTLIGHT B R A N DY A N D L I Q U O R S
Demarast Hill makes a line of distilled spirits and brandies, including:
Grappa Very Special Reserve Vodka Coco Brandy Tropical Liquore Amarena Aperitivo Anisette Gold Limoncella Orancella Peach Brandy Strawberry Brandy Applejack Sherry Blue Sky Juniper (Gin)
Cocolita Brandy Crème de Menthe Cherry Tree Brandy Honey Grappa Raisin Grappa Empire Coffee Liquor Vanilla Vodka Grape Vodka Dandelion Brandy Blue Spruce Shnappes FOC Liquore
VINEYARD DEMAREST HILL WINERY AND DISTILLERY ADDRESS 81 Pine Island Turnpike Warwick, NY 10990 PHONE 845-986-4723 EMAIL email@example.com WEBSITE demaresthillwinery.com
PRODUCTION 3,000 cases OWNER Francesco Ciummo MANAGER Francesco Ciummo WINEMAKER Francesco Ciummo
EVENTS For a list of Shawangunk Trail events go to: gunkswine.com
OPEN Year round, 11am–6pm CLOSED New Years Day, Easter, Thanksgiving, Christmas Day
FROM NYS THRUWAY (I-87): Take Exit 16, Rte. 17W for 7.3 miles to Exit 127. Merge onto Brookside Ave./Rte. 17M, then CR-13, following signs to Sugar Loaf/Warwick. Stay on CR-13 through Sugar Loaf until the Village of Warwick (about 8.6 miles). Turn right at traffic light, then a quick left onto Grand Ave. for approx. 1 mile (Grand turns into Pine Island Turnpike). Make a left at the sign at top of hill to Demarest Hill Winery. FROM WEST: I-287N until Route 23N for about 12 miles. Exit right onto CR-515 for about 8 miles until it becomes Route 94 at the second traffic light. Stay on Route 94 East (for about 7 miles) until the Village of Warwick. Turn left onto Grand Ave., then go approx. 1 mile (Grand turns into Pine Island Turnpike). Make a left at the sign at top of hill to Demarest Hill Winery.
TASTING FEES $5 for 7 wines TOURS No ACREAGE 10 acres
www.hvwinemag.com • Summer 2014
LOCATED IN A 200-YEAR-OLD BARN on land once owned by Aaron Burr, Palaia Vineyards is right in the middle of a richly historic area of the Hudson Valley. History is a main theme in all the operations here, from our land to our labels, which feature different photos of our relatives on each variety.
WHITE WINES CHARDONNAY NANCY White blend
PEARL White blend
We purchased the land in 2000 and began restoring the barn and converting it to a winery and tasting room. It has expanded since then to include the “Treehouse” and the “Sweet Clover Room” for music and private parties. The vines were planted in 2001 and we now have 10 acres of vineyard within view of the picnic grove and outside stage. We grow Cabernet Franc, Lemberger, Traminette, Seyval Blanc and Pinot Noir. In addition to what we grow here, we use New York State grapes to produce a variety of other award winning wines from dry to sweet. We believe that your tasting experience should be relaxed and a bit more “laid back” than a usual wine tasting. Our tasting room reflects this, and people are always commenting on the great “vibe” of our place. Tasting wine should be a fun experience, and if you are not in a good mood when you get here, it is our goal to improve it before you leave! As our tie-dye T-shirts say: “Palaia is where the Woodstock Nation gets its Libation…Man.” There is a variety of light gourmet fare to eat as well, including fantastic Amish cheeses, cheese and antipasto platters, smooth and creamy Brie, our personal-sized thin-crust pizzas, and more. With the live music every weekend, all year long, how could you not have a wonderful time here? Come watch a play or listen to music outside all summer, stomp grapes with us in September, pick grapes with us in October, and check the website for our events and music listing the rest of the year, or get on our e-mail list so you don’t miss a thing!
HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer 2014
TRAMINETTE Estate grown
MEET THE WINEMAKERS Winemakers Joe, Jan and Joe Palaggi are also the owners of the winery. Joe learned how to make wine from his grandfather and went on to take classes and seminars to improve his skills. Jan and Joe (the younger) are the “wine finishing” experts and do the testing and refining of the wines in preparation for bottling.
RED WINES CABERNET FRANC Estate grown
Joe will retire from his job someday and work full time at the winery, but for now it is up to Jan and young Joe to carry on with the day-to-day operations.
DECHAUNAC LEMBERGER Estate grown
L.O.L. Red blend
We believe that your
MERLOT S E R I O U S LY R E D
tasting experience should
be relaxed and a bit
more “laid back” than
NYS CRAFT BEER ON TAP
a usual wine tasting...
EVE’S CHOICE HARD CIDER FRESH SANGRIA MEAD
people are always
“vibe” of our place.
SMEAD Strawberry Mead
PINK WINE SLUSHIES Seasonal
commenting on the great
IN THE SPOTLIGHT 2 0 0 8 CA B E R N E T F R A N C
Our award-winning wine from our own vines. Cabernet Franc is the parent variety of Cabernet Sauvignon and has hints of black pepper, but with a smoother, less bold flavor than a Cab Sauvignon. Fruit comes forward, and a hint of smoke makes this a perfect wine for meats, as well as pasta. Try it at your next BBQ. 2 0 0 7 M E R LOT
This vintage is a surprise to most people who say, “Oh, I don’t like Merlot.” Then, when they try it they are amazed. It is well balanced with just the right amount of oak and dryness, with a smooth middle-mouth feel. Perfect for sipping while watching a band play…
…is Strawberry Mead! Mead is our honey wine, fermented from local honey. We add strawberries and flavor to get this lovely, sweet strawberry wine. A big hit here, and if you have a sweet tooth, this is the wine for you! Huzzah!
OWNERS Joe and Jan Palaggi
ADDRESS 10 Sweet Clover Road Highland Mills, NY 10930 PHONE 845-928-5384
G E N E R A L M A N A G E R Jan Palaggi O P E R A T I O N S M A N A G E R Craig Cowton (firstname.lastname@example.org) WHOLESALE INQUIRIES email@example.com
WINEMAKERS Joe (and son) Joe Palaggi
EVENTS (check website for more on festivals and
WEBSITE www.palaiavineyards.com OPEN Jan 1–Memorial Day: Fri–Sun Memorial Day–Dec 31: Open daily CLOSED New Years Day, Easter, Thanksgiving, Christmas Day TASTING FEES $5 for 6 wines TOURS Vineyard & winery tour every Sat, 3pm (weather permitting), or by appointment
Live music outside all summer! Sat night & Sun afternoon. Inside on Fri nights. July 12 Beatles Festival for local Police charities. Music 12–10pm featuring “Groovy Tuesday” at 7pm.
Jermaine Paul! Winner of Season 2 of “The Voice.”
Aug 1–3 The Vineyard Comedy Players perform Neil Simon’s comedy “Fools.”
Aug 23 Woodstock Festival. Vendors,
music and “Back to the Garden 1969” band.
ACREAGE 32 total, 10 in vines PRODUCTION 2,000 cases
www.hvwinemag.com • Summer 2014
FROM NYS THRUWAY (I-87): We are very easy to find being only 5 miles from the Woodbury Commons Premium Outlets on Rt. 32 North. From the NYS Thruway take Exit 16 and then the first exit after the tolls for Rt. 32 North. We are exactly 5 miles on the left on Sweet Clover Road across from Woodbury Rd. If you are coming from the North, we are 4 miles from the light at Cornwall on Rt. 32. Look for the big white Winery sign at the top of the road and follow the signs around the gray barn to the parking lot.
VINEYARD PALAIA VINEYARDS
WARWICK VALLEY WINERY & BLACK DIRT DISTILLERY
OUR STORY BEGINS IN THE ORCHARD. In 1989, we purchased the orchard and began to learn how to cultivate fruit. Local apple growers and extension agents taught us the basics and contributed to our early success. Our first product, in fact our entire business, started as a result of an abundant apple crop that lead us to experiment with hard cider. We were soon hooked and we received our farm winery and cider producer licenses in 1993. Our doors opened to the public in the Fall of 1994. In the early days, we had three wines and one cider, all of which were a bit unrefined. Our inexperience was as evident as our enthusiasm and we persevered to create higher quality wines and cider. Every vintage improved as we honed our skills and continued to learn the art and science of wine and cider making. Eventually, hard work paid off, leading us to the development of our acclaimed Doc’s Draft Hard Apple Cider. The success of our Doc’s Draft Hard cider is due to our insistence in using the finest fruit available. WHITE WINES The passion for creating wines and ciders soon evolved into an idea to begin distilling and to open the first distillery in the Hudson Valley since Prohibition. It was our belief that the fruits grown in the fertile Hudson Valley could be made into the highest quality fruit brandies and liqueurs. In 2001, we received a grant to develop New York’s first fruit micro-distillery. Using the same principle that had brought success to the wine and cider, we created a line of fruit brandies and liqueurs – American Fruits – made to capture and preserve the essence of fruit at its peak ripeness. Our post-and-beam tasting room provides visitors a unique environment to explore many offerings of wines, ciders, brandies and liqueurs. Renovated from an old apple packing house and overlooking a goose pond and the orchards, its bucolic setting is perfect for enjoying some great wine, music and food from our own Pané Café. A delicious bistro menu of fresh bread, pizzas, sandwiches and salads from Pané Café is served all weekend long.
CHARDONNAY PINOT GRIS RIESLING
RED WINES CABERNET FRANC CABERNET SAUVIGNON PINOT NOIR
FRUIT APPLES BLACK CURRANTS CHERRIES PEARS STRAWBERRIES
Warwick Valley Winery is the perfect place for the perfect “Country Wedding” or any private party. For information, email Randy at firstname.lastname@example.org. Our mission since our inception has been to create fruit-based alcoholic beverages that are as unique as the fruits themselves. It’s the magical combination of wine, music and food that makes any visit to Warwick Valley Winery so enjoyable.
PHOTOS: Carol Bates/Bates Photography, Inc. (center, opposite page)
HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer 2014
MEET THE WINEMAKER Jason A. Grizzanti is a renowned New York State winemaker, pomologist, viniculturalist, businessman, and the innovator behind the Empire State’s first fruit micro-distillery. Jason is a principal and chief operating officer in charge of production at the Warwick Valley Winery in the Hudson Valley’s picturesque apple capital. Under Jason’s direction, the facility has garnered critical acclaim and awards for its fruit distillates including an 87 rating from the Beverage Tasting Institute for Grizzanti’s Pear Brandy; a Gold Medal at the New York Wine and Food Classic for his Pear Liqueur; coverage in Forbes Life magazine for the bourbon barrel-aged Apple Liqueur; a Gold Medal-winning Ruby Port; and 2007 Best of Show recognition at the Hudson Valley Wine Competition for Jason’s American FruitsTM Sour Cherry Cordial.
Warwick Valley Winery is the perfect place for the perfect “Country Wedding” or private party.
IN THE SPOTLIGHT Black Dirt Distilling, LLC was formed in March, 2012. In order to meet the demand of the newly crafted and already renowned Black Dirt Bourbon and Black Dirt Apple Jack, born at the Warwick Valley Winery and Distillery, the construction of a 4,000-square-foot distillery along with a 60-foot distillation column was completed in Pine Island in 2013. The new distillery will be able to increase production twenty times.
The new Black Dirt Distillery expands upon the years of distillation and marketing experience that co-founders and managing partners Jason Grizzanti and Jeremy Kidde have accumulated. As the first micro-distillery in New York State, over the last decade they have produced award-winning brandies and liqueurs under the American Fruits brand, as well as the critically acclaimed Warwick gin. Now, using ingredients sourced directly from the Black Dirt region, these entrepreneurs are creating some of the most vibrant spirits to emerge on the market in generations. Tastes and samples of the Black Dirt Bourbon and Black Dirt Apple Jack may be found at the Warwick Valley Winery’s tasting room and store in Warwick. Also find the exciting products for sale throughout New York, New Jersey and Connecticut.
FROM NYC & NJ: Take Rt.17 north into New York State toward Albany (I-87). Get off at exit 15A, Sloatsburg. Make a left off exit onto Rt. 17. Take Rt.17 north for 7 miles, then make a left onto Rt.17A. Stay on Rt. 17A for approximately 17 miles into Warwick. At the intersection of Rt.17A and Rt. 94 make a left, onto Rt. 94. Proceed on Rt. 94 for a 1/4 of a mile, make a right onto Little York Rd. The winery is 1 mile on the right.
VINEYARD WARWICK VALLEY WINERY & BLACK DIRT DISTILLERY ADDRESS 114 Little York Road Warwick, New York 10990 PHONE 845-258-4858 FAX 845-258-6055 EMAIL email@example.com WEBSITE www.wvwinery.com www.blackdirtdistillery.com OPEN 11am–6pm, daily Bakery/Café open Friday–Sunday, 12pm–5pm
ACREAGE 60 acres PRODUCTION 175,000 gallons OWNERS Joseph Grizzanti, Jason Grizzanti, Jeremy Kidde DIRECTOR OF SALES Jeremy Kidde WINEMAKER Jason Grizzanti
EVENTS (check website for updates on events) Live music every weekend, 2–5pm Check website for dates & times: Memorial Day Bob Dylan Tribute August Grateful Dead Festival August Johnny Cash Tribute
CLOSED New Years Day, Easter, Christmas TASTING FEES $5 includes glass TOURS Call for info
www.hvwinemag.com • Summer 2014
IN 1982, THE BALDWINS purchased a farm which had been the Hardenburgh Estate since 1786, including a stone home and 18,000 square feet of out buildings situated on 37 acres of prime alluvial farmland. The first vineyard was planted in May 1982, and a second vineyard the next year, bringing total vine acreage up to 10 acres. In the Fall of 1982, the first vintage was vinified using grapes purchased locally, and the winery opened in July 1983 with five wines, three of which were awarded medals at the New York State Wine Competition. Baldwin Vineyards has spent the past 30 years garnering awards for their Chardonnay, Merlot, Riesling, Brut Champagne, Port and a dozen other wines, but pioneered New York’s entry into the premium fruit wine category.
WHITE WINES CHARDONNAY J O S E P H ’ S V I N TA G E Semi-sweet Riesling
MIST DI GRECO
BLUSH WINE BLUSH
RED WINES CLARET EMBERS Soft, fruity red
Starting with their Strawberry Wine in 1985 (Best Fruit Wine at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition 2006 and 2007); they added Apple, Blueberry, Cherry and Black Raspberry wines which have gathered many more awards over the years. The Black Raspberry Wine, alone, has won numerous gold medals in wine competitions, including the 2013 Gold Medal at the International Eastern Wine Competition. Most recently, Baldwin Vineyards garnered three gold medals for all three berry wines: Double Gold for their Strawberry Wine; and Gold for their Raspberry Wine and Trilogy (Red Raspberry) at the Finger Lakes International Wine Competition, making them the best fruit wines in the competition of more than 3,500 entrants! Their Strawberry Wine and Trilogy was also awarded a Silver Medal at the 2013 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, and they won Best Fruit Wine in New York State at the New York Food and Wine Classic in 2012.
FRUIT WINES APPLE RASPBERRY STRAWBERRY TRILOGY Red raspberry
SPARKLING MEMORIES Brut Champagne
DESSERT WINES LATE HARVEST RIESLING PORT
The Baldwins’ philosophy on fruit wines, which began a trend throughout the entire Northeast, was to vinify fruit wines as premium varietal wines, rather than the old traditional method of adding water and other less expensive fruit juices to bring down the cost. Instead of making the fruit wines dry, as was the tradition, the Baldwins finished their fruit wines so they tasted like the fruit they started from.
MEET THE WINEMAKERS Pat and Jack Baldwin were living in New Jersey in 1981, enjoying wine as a hobby since their first visit to Europe in 1974 had started their “love affair” with wine. As Director of Les Amis du Vins’ premier new chapter, Pat had 100 members who met monthly to taste the world’s great wines under the tutelage of wine industry’s notables, including Marcia Mondavi. It was a club member who informed Pat that world class wines were being produced 50 miles to the north, in New York’s Hudson River region. After visiting one of the region’s dozen wineries that summer, Pat remarked, “That would be a nice way to live.” So together the Baldwins spent the balance of the year looking at potential winery sites in Pennsylvania, New Jersey and New York. During a blizzard in February 1982, they visited a 37-acre farm in the Hudson River region. After walking the property in below-freezing weather, with six inches of snow already on the ground, they “bought the farm” on two conditions: 1. The town would allow them to put up a sign – “Baldwin Vineyards,” and 2. Cornell University would inspect the site and declare it fit for grape growing. Both conditions passed, and in July 1982, the Baldwins took title to the property. Yet, not wanting to wait until Spring of the following year, the Baldwins planted their first vineyard in May before they officially owned the property, and before they could improve the lot. And so, defying all logic, they had their vineyard, Baldwin Vineyards! With Pat’s unique talent for organizing and developing, and utilizing the services of two wine consultants, the winery opened in July 1983. They sold out of their first year’s wine in just a few months. Then in 1985, one of their consultants brought the Baldwins a bottle of 1919 elderberry wine found in a cellar of an old house. Not able to find any elderberries, they contracted for two tons of strawberries, and made their very first batch of strawberry wine. It be-came their best seller, and began garnering at least one Gold Medal each year since.
HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer 2014
IN THE SPOTLIGHT ST R AW B E R RY, C H O C O L AT E & W I N E F E ST I VA L S
Recognizing that wine goes best with food, the Baldwins started a tradition in 2006 to have frequent Strawberry, Chocolate & Wine Festivals, which involve tasting twelve of our wines accompanied by three chocolate/strawberry desserts. The food makes all the vibrant flavors in the wines stand out, and the desserts taste much better accompanied by the various wines. Imagine tasting cheesecake with a Port, strawberry shortcake with Brut Champagne or Late Harvest Riesling, or chocolate desserts with Strawberry or Black Raspberry Wine.
The Long Beach Grand Cru International Wine Competition awarded a Gold Medal to both the Strawberry Wine and Trilogy. In July 2013, the Strawberry Wine was also awarded the Chairman’s Award for Best of Category, and the Beverage Testing Institute awarded both the Strawberry Wine and Trilogy 88/100 points –“highly recommended.”
ACREAGE 37 acres
ADDRESS 176 Hardenburgh Road Pine Bush, NY 12566
PRODUCTION 2,000 cases
PHONE 845-744-2226 FAX 845-744-6321 EMAIL firstname.lastname@example.org WEBSITE www.baldwinvineyards.com OPEN May–Dec, Thurs–Sun 12–5pm
GETTING HERE FROM Rt. 17: Exit 116 on Rt. 17 (soon to be Rt. 86), take Rt. 302 North to Pine Bush. At the first traffic light in Pine Bush, go straight through the light onto Maple Avenue (don’t make a left or right onto Rt. 52/Main Street). Follow the signs for one mile, and the old stone house and winery will be on the right side. Baldwin Vineyards is on the Orange/Ulster county border in southeastern New York.
CLOSED Easter, Thanksgiving, Christmas TASTING FEES $7 for 8 wines, includes tasting glass
R EC E N T AWA R D S
VINEYARD BALDWIN VINEYARDS
OWNER Pat and Jack Baldwin MANAGER Pat and Jack Baldwin WINEMAKERS Pat and Jack Baldwin
EVENTS June 1 July 4, 5, 6 Every weekend in Aug and Oct Sept 1 (Labor Day) Strawberry, Chocolate & Wine Festivals Enjoy 12 of our wines and 3 different strawberry/chocolate desserts, engraved tasting glass. $12pp or FREE with purchase of 6 bottles of wine. 12–5pm.
TOURS Not available
GPS co-ordinates are -74.293735, and 41.618957.
www.hvwinemag.com • Summer 2014
WINE HAS BECOME VERY IMPORTANT to Americans. Moreover, we are drinking increasing amounts of wine grown in our own native soils, as well as, and frequently in preference to, wines originating in famous Old World regions. This acceptance of our own wines is quite a recent development. It has come about only through the efforts of a few American wine lovers who are determined to demonstrate that fine winemaking, both as an art and as a business, is well within the capability of our nation’s climate, soils, and talents. Hundreds of stories could and will be told of the difficulties and rewards experienced by these dedicated people during this accomplishment. One such story begins appropriately on a vineyard in the Hudson River Valley, the oldest wine district in the United States. Wine has been made from the grapes of this region since the 17th century when the French Huguenots grew vines and made wine in nearby New Paltz. Among the young WHITE WINES farmers attracted to this burgeoning industry in the early 1800s was Andrew Jackson Caywood who bought and CATAWBA planted a handsome piece of land high above the river in an CHARDONNAY even older Hudson region grape growing community, RIESLING dating from 1772. When the community incorporated as the Village of Marlborough, in 1788, a cluster of grapes S E Y VA L B L A N C carved in its seal commemorated its major crop. Caywood SL ATE HILL WHITE became an outstanding viticulturist and leading authority in TRAMINETTE the development of new grape varieties. When the Miller family bought the Caywood property in 1957 and renamed it Benmarl, it had outlived all of its early contemporaries to become America’s oldest professional vineyard. The Millers rebuilt its steep terraces, replanting them with European wine grapes, both hybrid and vinifera, carrying on Caywood’s private experimentation at a time when New York’s wine industry was at a low ebb, and long before New York State officially began experimental wine study.
ROSÉ DRY ROSÉ
RED WINES BACO NOIR CABERNET FRANC CABERNET SAUVIGNON FRONTENAC MERLOT
In 2006, the Spaccarelli family purchased Benmarl Winery from the Miller family, with the intention of reviving the spirit of Hudson Valley viticulture and the process of wine making. They have proven to be a new face to an old tradition. By replanting many of the abandoned vineyards and refurbishing the estate, they have managed to bring a new light to Benmarl, without sacrificing the tradition and history that makes it so special. And, carrying on the tradition of experimentation, they have planted new hybrid varieties like Traminette, as well as Old World vinifera. Benmarl and the Spaccarelli family are dedicated to the renaissance of New York’s first vineyard region, and have faith that the Hudson Valley will be recognized throughout the world as a producer of high quality wines, enhanced by a regional character which sets it apart from any others in the world.
HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer 2014
MEET THE WINEMAKER There seems to be a theme of “wine-maker–made” wines that has dominated the American wine scene in recent years. New World winemakers are gaining celebrity status, crafting exquisite wines that not only showcase their own style, but also reflect trends in the market. That being said, there has been a shift away from terroir-driven wines. New World wines are, in certain ways, losing their sense of place. At Benmarl Winery, the winemaking process has been increasingly focused not only on varietal characteristics, but on this idea of expressing terroir. They strive to make not only great wines, but great wines that reflect where they are from. “The decisions that we make in the cellar are very important,” says the winemaker and GM of Benmarl. “But not as important as the quality and consistency of the fruit that we grow and purchase.” In recent years the Spaccarelli family has been refurbishing their existing vineyards and planting new ones. Investment in new temperature-controlled tanks, French and American Barrels, and a state-of-the-art bottling line, has added to their focus on quality and consistency. The whites at Benmarl are generally bottled young, capturing their youthful fruit and often times minerally characteristics. The Chardonnay component of their Slate Hill White is the only white that sees oak. The reds are all carefully aged in French, American, and Hungarian oak barrels, striving to strike balance between flavor, aroma, and texture.
IN THE SPOTLIGHT E STAT E B AC O N O I R
Bottled every year in May, everyone impatiently awaits our award-winning Baco Noir. A light to medium bodied wine with the classic peppery red cherry fruit that only Baco can offer. Benmarl has been producing Baco Noir for fifty years. S L AT E H I L L W H I T E
Light to medium bodied, floral with a slight mandarin orange and citrus flavor. Pale yellow with fresh acidity. An attractive white to enjoy on the hazy, lazy days of summer. Bring this chilled wine to the beach and while away the hours. CA B E R N E T F R A N C
Earthy with notes of raspberry and cherry. Lightly oaked with a spicy finish of black pepper and vanilla.
THE ESSENTIALS PRODUCTION 4,200 cases
ADDRESS 156 Highland Avenue Marlboro, NY 12542
OWNER Victor Spaccarelli
GETTING HERE FROM NYS THRUWAY (I-87): Take Exit 17 (Newburgh); then take I-84 East and exit at Rt. 9W Newburgh (just before the Newburgh/Beacon Bridge); Rt. 9W North about 4.5 miles, then turn left on Conway Rd., keep to the right. The Benmarl sign and entrance are 1 mile on the right. FROM ORANGE COUNTY & PA: Rt. 9W Newburgh (just before the Newburgh/ Beacon Bridge); Route 9W north about 4.5 miles, then turn left on Conway Rd., keep to the right. The Benmarl sign and entrance are 1 mile on the right. FROM PUTNAM COUNTY & CT: Take I-84 West and cross the Newburgh/ Beacon Bridge; Route 9W North about 4.5 miles, then turn left on Conway Rd; keep to the right. The Benmarl sign and entrance are 1 mile on the right.
FAX 845-236-7271 EMAIL email@example.com
VINEYARD BENMARL WINERY
MANAGER Casey Erdmann WINEMAKER Matthew Spaccarelli
EVENTS (check website for updated listings) Sept 28–29 Annual Harvest Grape Stomp Festival
OPEN 12pm–6pm, every day
For a list of Shawangunk Trail events go to: gunkswine.com
Annual Harvest Grape Stomp Festival
CLOSED Thanksgiving, Christmas New Year’s Day, Easter TASTING FEES $8 for 6 wines TOURS Our working cellar is open for views ACREAGE 37 acres
Buses please call in advance.
www.hvwinemag.com • Summer 2014
BRIMSTONE HILL VINEYARD
BRIMSTONE HILL IS AMONG the older group of Hudson Valley vineyards and wineries. The actual vineyard dates back to 1969 when Richard and Valerie Eldridge planted some 20 varieties of “French hybrid” grapes on approximately a half acre of sloping land. The Eldridges were (and still are) dedicated oenophiles. This tradition really stems from Valerie’s background. She was French by origin, and she grew up in an extended French winemaking family from the Loire Valley. In the 1970s the Eldridge vineyards expanded to about 3-4 acres of grapes. The decision to try a small winery was made in 1978-79, a time period when there was considerable interest in establishing smaller wineries throughout the Hudson Valley. There was (and still is) much to learn about appropriate grape varieties, wine types and wine-making techniques for this region. Initially, the French-American hybrid grape varietals seemed to be the most appropriate for better wines. As the 1980s progressed some of the traditional European vitis vinifera varieties showed considerable promise. Then, as Cornell became better focused on higher quality wine grape varieties (remember Cornell has had a grape breeding program for generations), some of their interspecific hybrid varieties have blossomed in the Hudson Valley. Brimstone Hill has worked with all of these categorical groupings in a strong effort to make distinctive regional wines, which we are proud of.
WHITE WINES As for size, our vineyards have expanded considerably; we now have about 10 acres producing, and about 3 to 4 acres which are not yet in production. Our operation continues to be somewhat experimental in nature. One of the pioneering ventures we are very proud of is the development of a sparkling wine, which is made in the tradition of the French champagnes. Our current production is between 7,500 and 10,000 bottles per year.
CAYUGA WHITE CHARDONNAY RIESLING S E Y VA L B L A N C VIDAL BLANC
make distinctive regional wines,
CABERNET FRANC NOIRET VIN ROUGE
which we are proud of.
Brimstone Hill has worked to
DOMAINE BOURMONT S PA R K L I N G W I N E
HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer 2014
MEET THE WINEMAKER Richard Eldridge, owner and winemaker, stumbled into wine through marriage to the late Valerie de Bourmont who introduced him to wine. In a sense, the rest is history. The Eldridges became fascinated with the possibilities of growing and making very good wines here in the East. We tend to think of wine as one of the more important staples of the diet. The winemaking process in the East, however, is much more challenging than in California. This is largely due to the Eastern climatic conditions coupled with a limited tradition of wine and viticulture. Most of the California wine grape varieties cannot handle the cold winters and short, rainy, growing seasons. Further, Eastern grapes tend to be significantly higher in acidity and lower in sugar than their California counterparts. This condition can be addressed, but the process does become more complicated. The higher acidity does have a major advantage in making both sweeter wines and sparkling wines. The drier table wines tend to be on the lighter side with a certain zesty quality. At Brimstone Hill we are committed to the task of making better wines which will please our customers.
IN THE SPOTLIGHT NOIRET
This is a fairly recent New York State red grape which was developed by Cornell. It produces a very high-quality red wine with good tannins and overtones of black pepper. Noiret picks up an added richness when it is aged in oak barrels, and it accompanies most foods very well. It has proven to be very popular in our tasting room.
CA B E R N E T F R A N C
CAY U G A W H I T E
A semi-sweet wine with a delicate flavor and aroma. People frequently say that it possesses overtones of pear. Cayuga White is a great sipping wine on a hot summer afternoon, and it goes nicely with fruits and/or desserts. It is our most popular wine year in and year out. DOMAINE BOURMONT S PA R K L I N G W I N E
Our sparkling wine is a light dry (brut) sparkler made in the full Méthode Champenoise tradition. This means that the second fermentation occurs in the bottle, that is, the actual bottle in which the wine is served. It is a great wine to have with any celebration.
THE ESSENTIALS VINEYARD BRIMSTONE HILL VINEYARD
OWNER Richard Eldridge
ADDRESS 61 Brimstone Hill Road Pine Bush, NY 12566
MANAGER Richard Eldridge
PHONE 845-744-2231 FAX 845-744-4782
Thirty years ago, Cabernet Franc was almost unknown in Eastern winemaking and viticultural circles, but it has developed a steady and growing following among our customers. At Cornell it has proven to be the most winter hardy of the traditional European wine grape varieties, and it is reasonably disease-resistant. At Brimstone Hill we vinify Cabernet Franc along the lines of the Loire Valley Cabernet Franc wines. It is excellent with red meats, and it accompanies pasta dishes nicely.
WINEMAKER Richard Eldridge EVENTS For a list of Shawangunk Trail events go to: gunkswine.com
EMAIL firstname.lastname@example.org WEBSITE www.brimstonehillwine.com OPEN Memorial Day–Columbus Day: Fri, Sat, Sun & Mon, 11:30am–5:30pm Columbus Day–Memorial Day: Sat & Sun, 11:30am–5:30pm TASTING FEES $3 for table wines available $1.50 for sparkling wine TOURS Available by appointment
GETTING HERE FROM NYS THRUWAY (I-87): Take Exit 16, Rte. 17W to Exit 119. Turn right on Rt. 302 to Pine Bush, left on Route 52, go 1 mile to New Prospect Rd. Turn right and go ½ mile to Brimstone Hill Rd., then turn left. FROM NORTH & ALBANY: I-87 South to Exit 18, Route 299W to left on Libertyville Rd. (U.C.7) which becomes Bruynswyck Rd. Make right on Brimstone Hill Rd. FROM EAST & CT: Route 84 West, take Exit 8 to Route 52W to Pine Bush. See above. FROM WEST: Route 84E to Exit 4 to 17W. to Exit 119. See above from South.
ACREAGE 10 acres PRODUCTION 625-850 cases
www.hvwinemag.com • Summer 2014
GLORIE FARM WINERY
GLORIE FARM WINERY IS LOCATED in the Town of Marlborough and the County of Ulster. Agriculture has been the main focus of this community for over two hundred years. Even today much of the land is covered by successful farms and vineyards. Our proximity to the Hudson River and our sloping topography make it ideal to grow tree fruit and wine grapes. We share nearly the same latitude as the famous wine growing regions of France and Germany, so it is no wonder the Hudson Valley region garners more attention for its wines each year. Our winery was conceived in a love affair between agriculture and wine. We are obsessed with growing fruit and especially wine grapes. Currently, there are thirteen different grape varieties on trellis. Our farm rests on a premium growing site which allows us to produce classic Burgundian-style Seyval Blanc year after year. We consider the white Seyval Blanc grape to be the “Queen of the Hudson Valley.” Cabernet Franc is also at home high on the hillside here at Glorie Farms, yielding us robust vintages year after year.
WHITE WINES JUMPIN JAZZ NIAGARA RIESLING S E Y VA L B L A N C R U M P L E P U M P K I N TM SWEET CAROLINE
RED WINES If you were to visit the Napa Valley of California, you would be greeted by one wine – Cabernet Sauvignon. In the Hudson Valley, you are offered diversity. At our winery you will be able to try a unique collection of estateproduced wines. There will be the usual, the unusual and the eclectic. Our portfolio ranges from dry to semi-dry and sweet; red, white and fruit wines. Each visitor will find something to please them. Our warm, inviting tasting room is located in a refurbished area of our main barn, circa 1913. Large windows have been strategically placed so that you may enjoy the spectacular, expansive view of the Hudson Valley during your guided wine tasting. We strive to provide visitors with a friendly, approachable atmosphere. We have but one objective – to be sure each visitor leaves having had a positive experience.
BLACKJACK! DECHAUNAC OAK RED MONKEY CABERNET FRANC 2011 WORLD RED QUARTET JIBBER JABBER C A N D Y A S S R E D TM
MEET THE WINEMAKERS Winemaking at Glorie is a team effort. A wine’s journey begins in the vineyard. Each vintage gives us a new set of conditions to work with. Our farm staff pamper the vines from March to September, performing the critical tasks of pruning, suckering, shoot removal, leaf pulling and crop load adjustments. Many hours are spent walking the rows of vines, monitoring their progress. Once the grapes are harvested, the second part of our team takes over – the enologist. Kristop Brown handily fills the position. Kristop has now led us through a complete cycle of winemaking, and we are delighted with the results. His attention to detail is yielding wines of distinction. This, in conjunction with his blending skills, will help elevate how Hudson Valley wines are received.
Our winery was conceived
in a love affair between
BLACK CURRANT WINE PEACH WINE
agriculture and wine. We are obsessed with growing fruit and especially wine grapes.
HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer 2014
IN THE SPOTLIGHT S E Y VA L B L A N C
We could grow Chardonnay, but we believe Seyval Blanc is the “Queen of the Hudson Valley.” From our oldest vineyard, planted in 1983. Ours is made in the classic style – dry and crisp. Our favorite white wine.
THE ESSENTIALS P E AC H W I N E VINEYARD GLORIE FARM WINERY
TOURS By request
ADDRESS 40 Mountain Road Marlboro, NY 12542
ACREAGE 54 in land, 20 in fruit, 7 of which are grapes
PRODUCTION 1,000 cases
OWNERS MaryEllen and Doug Glorie
WINEMAKER Kristop Brown
Just like a fresh peach picked from the tree, this wine is sweet and satisfying. Made from New York State peaches. Perfect in the summertime or any time. 2 0 1 1 CA B E R N E T F R A N C
While less famous than its hot cousin, Cabernet Sauvignon, this light-bodied, dry red brings its own dignified suave personality to the table. Delightful flavors of cherry and plum.
GETTING HERE FROM THE NYS THRUWAY (I-87): Exit 17 (Newburgh). Take I-84 East to Exit 10. Turn left onto 9W North. Drive 7 miles to the village of Marlboro. Turn left onto County Route 14. Drive 1.5 miles to the stop sign, and turn right onto County Route 11. Drive one mile and turn left onto Reservoir Road. Drive one mile and turn right onto Mountain Road. Winery will be on the left.
OPEN Apr–Aug, Nov–Dec: Fri–Sun, 11:30am–5:30pm Sep–Oct: Fri-Sun, 11:30am–6:00pm
EVENTS For a complete listing of events visit: www.gunkswine.com
CLOSED New Years Day, Easter, Thanksgiving, Christmas TASTING FEES $5 for 5 wines Souvenir glass included. Spectacular view, no charge.
www.hvwinemag.com • Summer 2014
“WE ARE NOT A WINE COMPANY therefore we don’t have a corporate mission. We are a family that happens to have a passion for wine. We are a family that loves each other very much. We fight with passion and forgive quickly. We call each other 20 times a day. We know that if we win together, we lose together. We think if it’s easy, you’re probably doing it WHITE WINES wrong. We believe in working 7 days a week, 365 days a year. We can’t make decisions easily and we over-think 87 NORTH everything we do. We believe in giving more when you Cayuga White, Vidal Blanc want to give up. We think if you work half days that means 12 hours. We drink a lot of coffee and a lot of wine. CHARDONNAY We don’t believe in wine rating systems. We believe that RIESLING you should like what you drink and drink what you like. We like to laugh until we can’t breathe. We think it’s SERENDIPITY important to be able to laugh at yourself. We find things Seyval Blanc, Chardonnay funny that most people wouldn’t. We believe you don’t need to know all the answers; no one is smart enough to TRAMINETTE ask you all the questions. We think that if your name is on the sign, you probably should be in the building. We BLUSH believe you should learn from others’ mistakes, you can’t live long enough to make them all yourself. We don’t have NEW YORKIE ROSÉ a plan, we have a dream. We are not chasing our dreams; we crush them and put them in bottles.”
Established in 2010, Robibero Winery is set on a 42-acre property that is nestled in and around the breathtaking Shawangunk ridge. This majestic location is just a few miles from the historic town of New Paltz and only an 85-mile scenic drive from New York City. The newly planted estate vineyard is comprised of Vidal Blanc and Cabernet Franc, two varieties that grow best in our soil. The plan to expand the vineyard is set for Spring of 2015. In the meantime we have been prepping the ground so that the soil will be perfect for our future grapes vines. This technique of ground prep is tedious and labor intensive, but is the best way to ensure the vineyard will thrive on our site.
HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer 2014
Kristop Brown is considered one of the most technically gifted winemakers in the Hudson Valley. Kristop’s winemaking origins began at Benmarl when he learned to make wine under the apprenticeship of Eric Miller, son of Mark Miller. He further expanded his knowledge when he ventured to the West Coast to practice his craft in Walla Walla Washington. In 2011 Kristop returned to his roots of winemaking when he joined forces with Robibero Winery as Master Winemaker along with Assistant Winemaker Ryan Selby. Ryan has been making wine with Robibero from the start and works alongside Kristop in the cellar and vineyard. Kristop and Ryan have a diverse skill set with their intent to create a divine experience that can be bottled and shared.
CABERNET FRANC CABERNET SAUVIGNON MERLOT RABBIT’S FOOT Baco Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon
SYRAH VINOMAD Cabernet Franc, Merlot
Robibero Winery is a family-friendly, pet-friendly establishment. The elegant tasting room includes a spacious concrete bar, fireplace, 52" flat screen TV and plenty of indoor seating. Outside, the 90-foot deck offers panoramic views overlooking the vineyard and includes a pergola-covered patio. Along the lushly manicured sloping fields of the property, you will find picnic benches that welcome you to bring your lunch, and an outdoor fire-pit to keep you warm on those chilly nights. From the tasting room to the cellar, the Robibero family is truly hands on.
MEET THE WINEMAKERS
Kristop and the Robiberos are producing premium artisan wines that are distinctive to their terroir. All of the wines are hand-crafted in small lots to express unique and charming vintages, making them very limited in production. “There are posters and there are paintings. Our wines are like paintings, hand-crafted and not mass produced like posters. Wine is liquid art, we are painting the palate.” To find out more about what’s going on in the tasting room, cellar and vineyard, become our fan at: Facebook.com/RobiberoFamilyVineyards and follow us on Instagram: @RobiberoWinery
IN THE SPOTLIGHT S U M M E R E V E N TS !
Experience the excitement of Robibero by attending our annual Summer Events. There is no better way than to cool off on a hot summer day then with a glass of refreshing Sangria! July 12th and 13th is our 4th annual Sangria Festival and it is one of the events you don’t want to miss! Escape to the Hudson Valley on August 2nd and 3rd and when you arrive at Robibero you will feel like you are in Hawaii for our 3rd annual Luau & Pig Roast.
THE ESSENTIALS ACREAGE 42 acres
ADDRESS 714 Albany Post Road New Paltz, NY 12561
PRODUCTION 2,600 cases
PHONE 845-255-9463 (WINE)
OWNERS Harry and Carole Robibero, Tiffany and Ryan Selby
MANAGER Tiffany Robibero Selby
WINEMAKERS Kristop Brown and Ryan Selby
WEBSITE www.Rnewyorkwine.com OPEN Jan–Feb: Sat & Sun, 11am–6pm March–June, Thurs–Sun, 11am–6pm July–Dec: Thurs–Mon, 11am–6pm
GETTING HERE FROM NYS THRUWAY (I-87): Exit 18, New Paltz. Turn left at traffic light onto Route 299/Main Street. Follow Main Street through the Village of New Paltz. Cross over the Wallkill River’s small metal bridge. Bear left onto Libertyville Road (Rt. 7) at the fork just past Wallkill View Farm. Follow for 4.5 miles and stay straight on Libertyville Road as it merges with Albany Post Road. Robibero Winery is on the right hand side of the road.
Want to relive the experience of Woodstock? Join us for our 5th annual Winestock festival on August 23rd and 24th. Two days of peace, music and wine. All of our events are family friendly and pet-friendly.
VINEYARD ROBIBERO WINERY
EVENTS (Check website for full listing of events) Live Music Every Weekend May–Nov, 2–5pm July 5
Red, White & BBQ Blues
CLOSED New Years Day, Thanksgiving, Christmas
Pig Roast & Luau
TASTING FEES $8.00
Sept 27–28 Grape Stomp Festival
Aug 23–24 Winestock
TOURS Saturday & Sunday, 12pm
www.hvwinemag.com • Summer 2014
STOUTRIDGE VINEYARD is a premium estate winery located in Marlboro, New York, 70 miles north of Manhattan. We are members of the Shawangunk Wine Trail, as well as the Meet Me In Marlborough Farm Trail. The vineyards are half a mile from the beautiful Hudson River on the southeast facing slopes of a ridge of land on which grapevines and fruit trees have been continuously planted for 200 years. The Marlboro area has a rich history of fruit and wine production and during the 1800s was the principal supplier of fresh fruit for New York City. Next to the winery is a picturesque and historic stone farmhouse known to elder locals as “The Homestead.” Its ten-foot-high fieldstone foundation was built around 1855 and was dug out of the vineyard hillside. This house had a barn which, between 1902 and 1919, was the “Marono Winery.” Its one, dry-stacked stone foundation wall remains. Our impressive new winery building directly on the site of the 1902 Marono Winery features a “gravity flow” style production with an emphasis on the use of traditional “hands-off ” winemaking techniques, which we believe are necessary to preserve the delicate fruit of our regional wines. Our spacious tasting room has an outdoor patio integrated with the old winery foundation wall.
WHITE WINES HERITAGE WHITE QUIMBY'S WHITE
ROSÉ QUIMBY'S ROSÉ
RED WINES CABERNET FRANC FRONTENAC G R AV I TAS HERITAGE RED MERLOT
Our solar photovoltaic array on the south roof of the production area is over 2,000 sq. ft. of cell area and can produce 30 kW of electricity on a sunny day. Over the year we expect to be a net producer of electricity with the panels supplying more power than we use. In our wine production area we use a series of electric hoists to lift entire tanks of wine in order to move the wine to different locations in the winery. This means that we don’t use a pump which is much less energy efficient than the hoist. Ninety percent of our wines come from very local vineyards. By using local grapes we reduce the amount of fuel used for transportation to our crush pad. One of our primary goals at Stoutridge is to capture local flavor. Indeed, many of our wines are farm-centric where we bottle a wine that is made 100% from the vines of a small Hudson Valley farm, in an attempt to capture its authenticity.
HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer 2014
MEET THE WINEMAKER At Stoutridge, there are many sustainable methods employed which result in a low environmental impact, as well as a smaller carbon footprint. We are involved in a sustainability study with Cornell University to maximize their results in these areas. We subscribe to the “Slow Wine” phil-osophy of winemaking using minimal intervention and gravity winemaking approach. This philosophy focuses on techniques which make the best wine as a priority, rather than techniques which bring a wine to the marketplace faster. Speeding up the winemaking process is hard on the wine, and has a greater negative impact on the environment. Filtering is one example that rarely improves the quality of a wine, and it produces waste material that is difficult to dispose of in an eco-friendly manner. At Stoutridge, by reducing or eliminating filtering, we have found that we also save on production costs and even reduce our carbon footprint. Our unfiltered wines require a longer time to settle and to clarify, though. Our white wines, whether barreled or not, are bottled only after eleven months of aging. The second key component of Slow Winemaking is the gravity method of making wine without the use of pumps. The lack of turbulence in the transfer of wine from tank to tank is also a key to retaining the quality of flavor of the grapes in the finished wine.
IN THE SPOTLIGHT CA B E R N E T F R A N C R O S É
A bright rosé in the classic European dry style. Matured in large casks for one year to bring out bouquet and surprising complexity. G R AV I TAS
A blend of the locally-grown red grapes in a deep, rich luscious red wine. Complex and inviting. Delicious now but can be cellared for many years. Our best selling red wine.
Fresh, vibrant wine with red fruits and zesty minerality. Finishes clean with real depth of flavor and long, delicious finish. A great food wine that never tastes heavy, flat or simple. S E Y VA L B L A N C
The signature white varietal of the Hudson Valley. Dry, fresh subtle fruit and mineral flavored wine so successful in seafood and especially shellfish pairings. Not a light wine, it has real depth, body and follow through in the finish.
ACREAGE 10 acres under vine
ADDRESS 10 Ann Kaley Lane Marlboro, NY 12542
PRODUCTION 4,000 cases
PHONE 845-236-7620 FAX 845-236-7621 EMAIL email@example.com WEBSITE www.stoutridge.com OPEN Friday–Sunday, 11am–6pm, all year
M E R LOT
VINEYARD STOUTRIDGE VINEYARD
OWNERS Stephen Osborn and Kim Wagner MANAGER Stephen Osborn WINEMAKER Stephen Osborn
EVENTS For a complete list of events visit: www.shawangunkwinetrail.com
CLOSED Thanksgiving, Christmas
GETTING HERE FROM NYS THRUWAY (RT. 87): Exit 17 (Newburgh). Take Interstate 84 East to Exit 10 for Rt. 9W North. Go 7 miles to the hamlet of Marlboro. Turn left onto County Route 14, Western Avenue. After 0.3 miles make the first right onto Prospect St. and keep to the left. After 0.3 miles make the first left onto Ann Kaley Lane. Proceed to the parking lot at the end of the street.
TASTING FEES $8 TOURS $30.00 for winemaker tour of gravity winery
www.hvwinemag.com • Summer 2014
WHITECLIFF IS RECOGNIZED as “one of the Valley’s most ambitious wineries” by Hudson Valley Magazine. We take pride in being part of a vanguard of innovators who have added European wine grapes, high-quality new hybrids, and complex, European-style wines to the Valley’s traditional focus on fruit wines and sweet wines. Our 30+ years of planting and experimenting in the vineyard and the wine cellar have shaped a winery with deep roots in the region’s traditions, producing wines that offer variety, depth, and serious fun. The best measure of wine quality at Whitecliff is the fact that we were able to bring a truly prestigious award home to the Hudson Valley from the 2010 San Francisco International Wine Competition, where our Riesling won Best White Wine in Show. In San Francisco that means we beat 1,290 wines from 27 countries and 28 states, in a blind judging by 45 respected judges. We feel that closes the discussion as to whether the Hudson Valley’s local wines can compete on the world stage! A visit to our Tasting Room will let you experience a broad range of wine styles, a sense of what we can do here in New York’s Hudson Valley, and a new experience of what YOU like in wine. Come taste, explore, and enjoy! Whitecliff is: – Regional: reflecting what’s unique about this beautiful Valley – Artisanal: making small, hand-crafted batches with a distinctive outcome – Authentic: real and original – in our case, growing the grapes, making the wine, and selling it, all in the family!
WHITE WINES AWOSTING WHITE CHARDONNAY LAGRANGE MOUNTAIN LAUREL WHITE RIESLING TRAMINETTE
RED WINES CABERNET FRANC GAMAY NOIR MALBEC MERLOT PINOT NOIR RED TRAIL RIDGEWINE RED SKY ISLAND RED (Bordeaux blend)
Whitecliff was voted Best Wine
Place in the Hudson Valley in
2012 in the Times Herald-Record
PHOTOS: Tom Ligamari
HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer 2014
MEET THE WINEMAKERS Husband and wife team Michael Migliore and Yancey Stanforth-Migliore have created Whitecliff over the past 30 years. From planting the vines to construction of the tasting room, they have done much of the work with their own hands. As winemaker and vineyard manager, Michael Migliore brings the rigorous approach of a chemist and engineer to Whitecliff. With a Masters in Chemistry from SUNY New Paltz, and many years as a process engineer in semiconductor manufacturing, Michael applied his background in science to teaching himself the chemistry and art of winemaking. He works closely with Cornell Cooperative Extension testing new grape varieties, and pushing the envelope on the quality of grape growing in the region. In that capacity he also serves as president of the Hudson Valley Wine and Grape Growers Association. Yancey Stanforth-Migliore manages sales and the Tasting Room, taking inspiration from her previous work as fundraiser for Scenic Hudson, a regional environmental organization. The Migliores are proud to note they are now joined in the business by their son, Tristan Migliore, who currently manages the Wine Club, and wholesale accounts in New York City.
IN THE SPOTLIGHT T H E 2 0 1 3 V I N TAG E !
These two wines, our dry Rosé and our very first Reserve Riesling—the first new wines from the 2013 harvest—represent all the wonderful wines we will release in coming months from the truly terrific 2013 vintage. The hot, dry weather that took over from July through harvest will make for some of the very best wines this region can produce.
D RY R O S É
2 0 1 3 R E S E RV E RIESLING
When the winery that beat 1,300 whites from 28 countries with its Riesling, taking Best In Show at the San Francisco International Wine Competition (us!), releases a reserve Riesling, it's time to drop everything and go buy some! We’re serious: this is a great wine.
GETTING HERE FROM THE NYS THRUWAY (RT. 87): Exit 18, New Paltz. Turn left onto Route 299. Drive through the town, across the Wallkill River and bear left onto County Route 7 at the fork after Wallkill View Farm. Stay on Route 7 for 7.9 miles and turn left onto Route 7A, McKinstry Road. Whitecliff is .8 miles along on the right.
THE ESSENTIALS VINEYARD WHITECLIFF VINEYARD
ACREAGE 27.5 acres
ADDRESS 331 McKinstry Road Gardiner, NY 12525
PRODUCTION 6,500 cases
A creative blending from local hybrid grapes allows us to create a distinguished dry Rosé that is comparable to what you find on every summer table in the South of France. A mouthwatering fruity aroma is followed by light, clean fresh flavors that make for a perfect summer wine.
OWNERS/MANAGERS Michael Migliore and Yancey Stanforth-Migliore
WINEMAKER Brad Martz and Michael Migliore
WEBSITE www.whitecliffwine.com OPEN Jan: Sat only, 11am–6pm Feb–May: Mon–Fri, 11:30am–5:30pm; Sat: 11am–6pm; Sun, 11:30–5:30pm June–Oct: Mon–Fri, 11:30am–5:30pm; Sat: 11am–6pm; Sun, 11:30–5:30pm
EVENTS (Check website for full listing of events) June 21–22 Dip & Sip Hudson Valley breads with olive oil
Sale Weekend & Vertical Tasting of Vintages
CLOSED New Years Day, Thanksgiving, Christmas
A Match Made in Heaven Hudson Valley cheeses
Deluxe Winery Tours with the Owner
TASTING FEES $10 for 6 wines with souvenir glass
Red Wine & Chocolate!
TOURS By appointment
www.hvwinemag.com • Summer 2014
MILLBROOK VINEYARDS & WINERY
THE WINERY WAS FOUNDED IN 1981 by John S. Dyson, former Deputy Mayor for Economic Development in New York City, as well as former New York State Commissioner of Commerce and Agriculture. It was the first vineyard in the Hudson River Region of New York dedicated exclusively to the production of vinifera grapes. Dyson started growing grapes by planting an experimental acre of vinifera grapes at his family farm in Millbrook. In 1979, he purchased a former dairy farm and converted the 1940s-era barn into an efficiently designed modern winery. Millbrook Winery’s first commercial vintage was in 1985 and today it produces over 14,000 cases of wine a year. Of the estate’s 130 acres, over 35 are now planted with grapes. Almost half of the vineyard is planted with Chardonnay, and the remainder consists of Tocai Friulano, Riesling, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Franc. Some of Millbrook’s most highly regarded wines include the Proprietor’s Special Reserve versions of Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, and Pinot Noir. When the growing season allows, Millbrook also produces five vineyard designate wines in very limited quantities – our Lollipop Hill Tocai Friulano, Block Two West Chardonnay, Castle Hill Chardonnay, Block Five East Pinot Noir and Block Three East Cabernet Franc. Millbrook Winery is located in a renovated Dutch hip dairy barn that has magnificent views of the vineyards, Catskill Mountains, and rolling hills of Dutchess County. Millbrook stays true to its goal of producing wines of the highest caliber by uniting state-of-the-art viticulture with classical French and Italian winemaking techniques including barrel aging and malolactic fermentation. Essential to the Millbrook Wine Experience is an informative and enriching guided tour of the winery, which will leave you with an insider’s view of the entire winemaking process, from the careful tending of the vineyards to the winemaker’s art of vinification. Each tour is capped off with a complete and informative tasting of current vintage Millbrook wines. Tours are conducted every day and bus groups are welcome with advance reservations.
HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer 2014
WHITE WINES TOCAI FRIULANO PROPRIETOR’S SPECIAL RESERVE TOCAI FRIULANO LOLLIPOP HILL UNOAKED CHARDONNAY CHARDONNAY CHARDONNAY PROPRIETOR’S SPECIAL RESERVE CASTLE HILL CHARDONNAY DRY RIESLING PROPRIETOR’S SPECIAL RESERVE HUNT COUNTRY WHITE
ROSÉ HUNT COUNTRY ROSÉ
RED WINES HUNT COUNTRY RED PINOT NOIR PINOT NOIR PROPRIETOR’S SPECIAL RESERVE BLOCK FIVE EAST PINOT NOIR CABERNET FRANC CABERNET FRANC PROPRIETOR’S SPECIAL RESERVE BLOCK THREE EAST CABERNET FRANC
MEET THE OWNER & WINEMAKER John Dyson’s initial wine investment began in 1979 when John Dyson initiated several viticultural experiments using various varieties, rootstocks and trellising techniques at his Millbrook property. From one acre of vineyard in 1979 to over 1,000 today, Mr. Dyson owns and operates four separate properties: Millbrook Vineyards & Winery in the Hudson Valley, NY: Villa Pillo Estate in Tuscany, Italy; Williams & Selyem in Sonoma County, California; and Pebble Ridge Vineyards in the North Central Coast region of California, comprising the 560-acre Vista Verde vineyard. John Graziano is the Vice President and Winemaker at Millbrook Vineyards & Winery. John was born and raised in Rye, NY, and attended Cornell University where he studied Fruit Crop Production, including courses in chemistry and viticulture. Cornell’s proximity to the vineyards of the Finger Lakes gave John the excuse to indulge his interest in wine. He graduated from Cornell University in 1981, with degrees in Plant Pathology and Entomology. In 1984, he was asked by John Dyson to be the opening winemaker for Millbrook Vineyards, and he has remained the only wine maker at the winery since its establishment.
IN THE SPOTLIGHT W I N E RY O F T H E Y E A R
Millbrook Winery was once again the proud recipient of the prestigious ‘Winery of the Year’ designation at the Hudson Valley Wine and Spirits Competition last fall. Our Tocai Friulano Proprietor’s Special Reserve was honored with ‘Best Overall Hudson Valley Wine’ in the same competition. We also took home the “Best Winery of the Hudson Valley’ for the 18th consecutive year in Hudson Valley Magazine’s Annual Reader’s Poll.
E STAT E R I E S L I N G
We are very excited to announce the release our first estate bottling of Riesling (Proprietor’s Special Reserve) from our 3 acre planting of Riesling vines in 2011. This wine will be available at the winery and at select retailers and restaurants in Dutchess County and New York City. Only 300 cases of this wine were produced and we don’t expect it to take very long before it is sold out!
GETTING HERE FROM TACONIC STATE PARKWAY: Taconic State Parkway to Millbrook/ Poughkeepsie/Rt. 44 exit. Take Rt. 44 East one mile to Rt. 82 North. Follow Rt. 82 North 3 miles to Rt. 57 (Shunpike Rd). Make a right on Rt. 57 and follow 3 miles. Make a left on Wing Road. Millbrook Winery is the second driveway on the right.
VINEYARD MILLBROOK VINEYARDS & WINERY
ACREAGE 35 under vine
ADDRESS 26 Wing Road Millbrook, NY 12545
PRODUCTION 14,000 cases
PHONE 845-677-8383 FAX 845-677-6186 EMAIL firstname.lastname@example.org WEBSITE www.millbrookwine.com OPEN June–Aug: Mon–Sun, 11am–6pm Sept–May: Mon–Sun, 12–5pm CLOSED New Years Day, Easter, Thanksgiving, Christmas TASTING FEES $11 plus tax $27.50 plus tax for Reserve Tastings
OWNER John S. Dyson MANAGER David H. Bova WINEMAKER John Graziano
EVENTS (Check website for full listing of events) June 21 Summer Solstice Lobster Bake in the Vineyard
June–Aug July 19 Aug 2 Oct 18 Nov 15
Jazz at the Grille Concert Series Outdoor Movie Night 5K Vineyard Race 24th Annual Harvest Party Grand Portfolio Wine Tasting
TOURS Included with tasting fee
www.hvwinemag.com • Summer 2014
THE HUDSON-CHATHAM WINERY was started by Carlo and Dominique DeVito when they acquired their property in 2006. It’s the last remaining 14 acres of the former 500-acre Brisklea Farms dairy in Ghent in Columbia County, with rolling hills that afford views stretching from the Catskills to the Berkshires. They planted 1,000 vines in 2006—a combination of Seyval Blanc, Muscat, Chancellor, and DeChaunac—and became instant farmers. They now have an additional 1,000 vines planted, mostly Baco Noir, but also Chelois, Burdin, and some other hybrids. A tasting room was constructed in early 2007, and the Hudson-Chatham Winery opened its doors in September that year. In January 2012, the winery expanded its production area to accommodate additional tanks, and to create a designated area for bottling, labeling, and storage. When this was completed, it allowed them to expand their tasting room into the adjacent building. With fresh paint, new flooring, cabinets, and a great bar fashioned from a single plank just as in the original tasting room, the winery is now able to accommodate tastings for more visitors in comfort and style. The concept behind the Hudson-Chatham Winery is to showcase select New York State wines in an enjoyable setting. Besides the light and airy tasting rooms, guests also enjoy great scenery and views on the property. In its relatively short time of operation, the Hudson-Chatham Winery has notched many distinctive awards for its wines, consistently winning medals at the Hudson Valley Wine & Grape Association, the New York Food & Wine Classic, the NY State Fair, and the Dallas Morning News Wine Competition. Their reds have received scores in the high 80s from Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast magazines. In summer 2012, their 2010 Baco Noir Reserve Casscles Vineyard won a prestigious Double Gold medal from the NY State Fair Wine Competition—the only Hudson Valley wine to do so. Hudson-Chatham has established a Paperbirch label for fortified dessert wines, and have a line of distinctive port-style wines, a lovely cassis, and a multiple award-winning sherry. In addition to the wines, Hudson-Chatham produces a line of its own 100% natural maple syrups, balsamic vinegars, a distinctive black currant “caviar,” a line of all-natural fruit “drizzles” for cheese, fig and medlar jams, and other gourmet items.
HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer 2014
WHITE WINES LINDENWALD WHITE RIESLING S E Y VA L B L A N C E S TAT E S E Y VA L BLANC
BLUSH/ROSÉ GHENT BLUSH ROSÉ
RED WINES BACO NOIR CABERNET FRANC EMPIRE RED HUDSON RIVER VALLEY RED MERLOT
SPARKLING BLANC DE BLANC
HARD CIDER LITTLE APPLE FARM HEIRLOOM CIDER
PORT PAPERBIRCH – Highlands Fine Ruby – Highlands Raspberry Ruby – Palladian White – Bannerman’s Castle Amber Cream – Cassis
MEET THE WINEMAKERS Carlo, Dominique, Dawson and Dylan DeVito, along with Ralph Cooley, crush, blend, and bottle the wines. Longtime New York State grape expert Steve Casscles is the winemaker. Ralph’s grandparents were the owners of Brisklea Farms for six decades. Carlo is the author of East Coast Wineries: The Complete Guide from Maine to Virginia (Rutgers Univ. Press), and is the publisher of www.eastcoastwineries.blogspot.com, a highly-acclaimed wine blog featuring news, reviews, and interviews concerning East Coast wines. The DeVitos are also founding members of the Hudson Berkshire Beverage Trail (www.hudsonberkshireexperience.com). The Hudson-Chatham Winery was voted “The Capital Region’s Best Local Winery,” by Capital Region Living Magazine in 2011, 2012 and 2014. The winery has been reviewed and highlighted in the New York Times, Wine Spectator, Wine Enthusiast, Snooth, Sommelier Journal, Edible Manhattan and Edible Brooklyn, The Valley Table, Hudson Valley magazine, and many more publications.
The winery is a proud member of the Hudson Berkshire Beverage Trail.
IN THE SPOTLIGHT 2013 ROSÉ
Just in time for summer, we’ve introduced our newest Rosé, a lovely, dry wine made from Seyval Blanc, Concord, and Geneva grapes. The wine is aged in oak for six months and has an amazing orange tint to it. It tastes as pretty as it looks! G R A P PAS
We are delighted to be working with Derek Grout at Harvest Spirits to produce a line of grappas – distilled grape skins. We have Grappas from our Seyval Blanc and our Baco Noir grapes. There’s even a Reserve Grappa, made from the Baco and finished in oak.
CHEESE DRIZZLES AND JAMS
There’s nothing better to top a distinctive Hudson Valley artisan cheese than a “drizzle” made from 100% natural fruit. We have them in Meyer Lemon and Blood Orange. We’ve also introduced a Fig Jam, and a Medlar Jam. (Medlar is an ancient fruit, and ours is made with fruit grown organically in nearby Hillsdale.) Try them – you’ll like them!
GETTING HERE FROM NYS THRUWAY (RT. 87): Exit 21, and make a left at the stop light onto Rt. 23B. Take Rt. 23 East over the Rip Van Winkle Bridge, and follow signs for Hudson. Make a right onto Warren St., and follow through town. At intersection, make a left onto Rt. 66, and follow for 8 miles. FROM THE TACONIC STATE PARKWAY: Take the exit for Chatham/Austerlitz, Rt. 203, toward Chatham. At the intersection of Rts. 203 and 66, make a left onto Rt. 66, towards Ghent/Hudson. The winery is about 5 miles from the intersection on the right.
VINEYARD HUDSON-CHATHAM WINERY
PRODUCTION 4,000 cases
ADDRESS 1900 State Route 66 Ghent, NY 12075
OWNERS Carlo and Dominique DeVito
PHONE 518-392-WINE (9463)
MANAGERS Bryan Van Deusen, Ralph Cooley, Greg Esch
TASTING ROOM ASSOCIATES Molly Behrens, Karen Mink
WINEMAKERS Carlo DeVito, Steve Casscles
OPEN Year-round, Wed–Sun: 12–5pm, with additional summer and holiday hours CLOSED Monday–Tuesday, except by appointment TASTING FEES $5.00
EVENTS (check website for updated listings) June 7 Celebrate Summer with Wine Slushies
July 12 July 19 Aug 9
Outdoor Movie Night Clam Bake 7th Annual Sangria Festival
TOURS No ACREAGE 14 acres total, about 5 acres planted
www.hvwinemag.com • Summer 2014
BROOKVIEW STATION WINERY
WONDERFULLY SWEEPING VISTAS of the Catskill and Helderburg Mountains are the scenic backdrop for the Brookview Station Winery at Goold Orchards, Rensselaer County’s first winery. Our mission at Brookview Station is to craft the best Hudson River Region wines, using the finest fruits and grapes grown at our family farm and from other Hudson Valley family farms. In doing so we acknowledge the vital economic impact of agriculture in the Hudson Valley and we honor those who work tirelessly to preserve the Valley’s tradition of family farming.
WHITE WINES WHISTLE STOP WHITE OH, WHAT A PEAR POMONA
ROSÉ SUNSET CHARLIE ROSÉ
RED WINES The Brookview Station Winery story begins over a century ago. Goold Orchards, our home farm, was founded in April 1910 when James and Bertha Goold arrived by rail at a small train station in Brookview, New York – the Brookview Station. Together they walked a mile to the farm they had recently purchased. Bertha, educated at Emma Willard in Troy, and husband James, a recent graduate of Cornell were eager to apply the latest in agricultural technologies on their new fruit farm. In 2006 the farm grew again when third generation owners Sue Goold Miller and her husband Edward began making wine. That September, the Brookview Station Winery, named for the little whistle stop station where James and Bertha Goold first passed through on their way home, opened its doors. Brookview Station is proud to be a founding member and northern anchor of “The Hudson Berkshire Beverage Trail,” New England’s most diverse interstate beverage trail.
Our mission at the Brookview Station Winery is to craft the best Hudson River Valley wines, using the finest fruits and grapes grown at our family farm.
HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer 2014
ALL ABOARD RED BACO NOIR FRONTENAC MERLOT
FRUIT STRAWBERRY SUNRISE SCARLOT TA BING THE CONDUCTOR’S CASSIS
HARD CIDER “J O E D A D D Y ’ S ” HARD CIDER – English-Style – Apple-Cranberry
PORT THE PORTER’S PORT
MEET THE WINEMAKER Last year’s grape harvest was the best yet, and the bright spot was our first estate-produced varietal, our Brookview “Frontenac.” This delectable wine is a dry, moderately acidic varietal and seems to have slight cherry notes. The “best part of the 2012 harvest” is now in the bottle, and ready to make its debut when we begin our 103rd apple picking season this Labor Day Weekend. The orchards and vineyards are looking great, and we’re all looking forward to this year’s harvest. We have been pressing fresh apple cider for almost 50 years on our home farm, Goold Orchards. Last spring we began working on our first hard cider, “Joe Daddy’s”. The response has been overwhelming and it has quickly developed a great following. We produce two flavors year-round, English-style cider and Apple-Cranberry hard cider. We also like to make specialty flavors; Pear and Apple-Pomegranate are this season’s small-batch varieties. Stop by… they won’t be around long… Cheers! Ed Miller, Winemaker
IN THE SPOTLIGHT T H E C O N D U C TO R ’S CASS I S
Rich, complex and wonderfully decadent. An exquisite black currant cordial hand-crafted in the traditional style of French artisanal winemakers. B AC O N O I R
A beautiful blending of new world wine and old world style. A soft, medium bodied red wine that hints of cherries, plum and spices. T H E P O RT E R ’S P O RT
A mélange of delectable Hudson Valley cherries fermented and barrel-aged to perfection. Its rich dark cherry notes are nicely blended with a toasty oak finish.
W H I ST L E STO P W H I T E
VINEYARD BROOKVIEW STATION WINERY
PRODUCTION 2,500–3,500 cases
ADDRESS 1297 Brookview Station Road Castleton-on-Hudson, NY 12033
OWNER Sue Goold Miller and Ed Miller
“2007 Best Hudson River Region Wine” Semi-Dry Apple Wine. A subtle essence of apple is all that lingers behind its smooth sweet-tart finish. Estate Bottled.
PHONE Toll-free: 1-88-TO-UNCORK
O H W H AT A P E A R
OPEN Jan–Aug: Mon–Sat, 10am–5pm Sept–Dec: Daily, 9am–5pm
Semi-Dry Pear Wine. This light, fruity wine is surprisingly complex and long on finish. Estate Bottled. A L L A B OA R D
A dry, medium-bodied red table wine blended with a touch of Noiret for a smooth, lightly-spiced finish. ST R AW B E R RY S U N R I S E
Strawberry Wine. As sweet as a June morn, this wine is “Just-Picked Perfect.” Hudson River Region.
CLOSED New Years Day, Easter, Memorial Day, Independence Day, Thanksgiving, Christmas TASTING FEES $6.00–$8.00 Private/Group Tastings – Price varies Available by appointment only TOURS Not available
MANAGER Karen Gardy WINEMAKERS Sue Goold Miller and Ed Miller EVENTS (Updates at www.goold.com or follow us on Facebook.com/brookviewstationwinery) Sunnyview – CRNA Paintball Biathalon (raindate Aug 2) Aug 23 Brookview Station – CRNA 5K Winery Run Aug 30 Pick Your Own Apples Opens Sept 20 Goold Golden Oldies Antique-Classic Car Show Sept 27 Johnny Appleseed Kids Birthday Bash Oct 11–12 26th Annual Apple Festival & Craft Show Oct 18 Sweet Cider Flow 5k Oct 19 Halloween Pets on Parade
ACREAGE 125 total acres; 80 acres are currently under fruit production
CHECK WEBSITE FOR DIRECTIONS: www.brookviewstationwinery.com
www.hvwinemag.com • Summer 2014
HELDERBERG MEADWORKS IS ONE of the newest wineries in the region. It is located in the Helderberg Mountains where fresh water and local honey are used to create the finest mead. We are not only one of the newest, but the most unique. We are one of a precious few “meaderies” in the state who only produce mead. Owner and meadmaker Peter Voelker has been making a variety of meads for many years. In 2010, Peter decided to open the meadery with his wife Kirsten to share what he considers the best mead in the country. While many of you have no doubt seen and tasted the commonly available meads, very few have tasted mead like Helderberg’s. Heritage Mead is a traditional mead made only from the fermentation of local New York raw honey, and oak-aged as you would expect the Old Norse to have done. The yeast has been allowed to ferment as it will, without stopping or altering the process to tailor the flavor. This results in a stronger mead that has a certain rawness to it, while having just enough honey sweetness to smooth and balance the flavor. Beverages many centuries ago were stored in oak vessels, and Heritage is created in a modern way that imparts an oak vessel flavor.
PRODUCTS HERITAGE Traditional mead
APPLE MEAD MAPLE Coming Summer 2014
FERAL Coming Summer 2014
Helderberg’s philosophy is to create a mead that is as close as possible to mead that may very well have been made hundreds, or even thousands, of years ago while using modern equipment and methods. We use minimal sulfites and minimal production handling. This means that each batch is unique. Every harvest of local honey is different, so every batch made will taste a bit different. In order to differentiate batches for our customers, we plan to choose a different color wax top. This serves as our equivalent of a wine’s vintage year. November 2012 commenced the sales of our first and signature mead, Heritage. Since then, the customer feedback has been overwhelming. It seems the time is right for something new and refreshing in the market, as well as in the local wine industry. While Heritage will remain our signature mead, we also have a wonderfully crisp and refreshing Apple Mead and two or three new varieties that will be released this summer.
HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer 2014
MEET THE MEADMAKER Peter Voelker is an engineer by degree and trade. His love for creating something personal and unique combined with a passion for history drove him to begin experimenting with, and studying, mead. He was born in New York and has lived almost his entire life in the Hudson Valley region. He got his start making home-brewed beer as soon as he graduated college, then branched out into other fermented beverages. He settled on mead fifteen years ago, and has been perfecting it ever since. Having discovered through genealogical research that he is a descendant of Harald Fairhair, the King who unified Norway, Peter developed a traditional mead that he would feel honored to raise a toast with his ancestor. In honor of that link, the label for Heritage was designed to include the “Swords in Mountain” monument featuring three bronze swords standing 30 feet tall. The monument was erected in Norway to commemorate King Harald’s historic final battle of Hafrsfjord. Peter, along with his wife Kirsten, handle everything related to the meadery including meadmaking, sales and marketing, bottle, label design direction, and website down to the manual tasks of pumping honey and bottle washing – all while maintaining their full-time jobs and raising two active young boys.
IN THE SPOTLIGHT MAPLE
One of the wonderful products of the great Northeast is maple syrup. Helderberg uses maple syrup from Wilderhook Maple Farm to produce our Maple. Oak aged with a strong maple flavor, this mead will harken back to memories of tapping maple trees as a child, or boiling down the sap you collected to make syrup. It is 15-16% ABV, which allows the maple flavor to be retained without the cloying sweetness that one might expect to accompany such bold mapleness.
Helderberg Meadworks has taken the local concept to its ultimate conclusion with the creation of our Feral mead. It is fermented using wild yeast that we harvested and cultivated right at the Meadworks! The process of cultivating wild yeast is time-consuming and intricate, but the rewards reflect the delicate process of creation that results in an amazing array of fruity and floral essences imparted by the yeasts alone.
MEADERY HELDERBERG MEADWORKS
MANAGER Peter Voelker
ADDRESS PO Box 93 Duanesburg, NY 12056
MEADMAKER Peter Voelker
EVENTS Watch our facebook where we will announce all upcoming events and tastings! May 24–25 Hudson Berkshire Food &
Wine Festival, Chatham
Bounty of the County Artisan Market, Schoharie, NY
Hessian Hill Farm’s 50th Birthday Celebration, Berne
OPEN By appointment only
Capital Region Apple & Wine Festival, Altamont
PRODUCTION 400–800 cases/year OWNER Peter and Kirsten Voelker
GETTING HERE Helderberg Meadworks is not open to the public, however a list of retail locations is on our website.
www.hvwinemag.com • Summer 2014
LOCATED ON A FAMILY APPLE FARM in the fertile Hudson Valley, Harvest Spirits benefits by having all of our ingredients grown steps from our doorstep. Our third-generation apple farm benefits by having a new market for our cider apples and increased traffic to our retail farm store. Harvest Spirits and Golden Harvest Farms work closely with several local farms. We promote strong ties among our local farmers and share information readily, from tree to bottle. Our small distillery is a very modern work of art. Though it can only distill one hundred gallons at a time, it is flexible and precise enough to create virtually any kind of liquor, from vodka and brandy to whiskey and gin. Apples offer us the perfect component and a unique opportunity to control our process from harvesting all natural ingredients to triple-distilling our vodka in our custom-designed German still. We focus primarily on vodka, and every drop in every bottle of Core Vodka is meticulously and passionately hand-crafted using nothing but the apples grown steps from our distillery and filtered water, to create a vodka with a smoother, softer spirit and an authentic flavor. The final result – vodka that greets your mouth with a rich, buttery start and leaves your palette with a subtle hint of its fruit origin. Both our un-aged Pear Brandy (40% alc) and our 2-year-old Rare Pear Brandy (40% alc) are made from fresh local pears. While the un-aged pear brandy is made from just Bartlett pears, our Rare Pear Brandy is made from Bosc and Bartlett pears with a touch of aged Grappa. We capture the full flavor of ripe pears by fermenting whole, crushed fruit (instead of mere juice). Big, bold pear aromas in the bouquet develop into a rich mouthfeel and finish with a surprisingly smooth satisfaction. Inspired by German Himbeergeist, our black raspberry infused vodka is made by soaking home-grown black raspberries in our Core Vodka. We then redistill the vodka and back color it with a touch of the original berry juice. Core Black Raspberry (40% alc) is a truly unique infused vodka: rich berry aromas layer over a delicate, smooth spirit. Our Cornelius Peach Brandy (30% alc) is made by soaking fresh peaches in twoyear-old applejack. The peaches are strained and the liquor is put back in the barrel for another year. Slightly sweet and less alcoholic than our other products, our Cornelius Peach Brandy has bright, fresh flavors of baked peach pie with layers of oak and spice. Delicious on its own or mixed with Champagne in a Bellini. We carefully distill our Cornelius Applejack (40% alc) twice, offering a smoother, more satisfying take on this American classic. Made from 100% Hudson Valley apples, our applejack rests in bourbon barrels for two years. Each bottle is made from over 60 lbs. of fresh apples grown right outside our distillery. We invite you to come in for a tour and taste some of our latest creations.
HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer 2014
MEET THE DISTILLER Derek Grout is a third-generation apple farmer and the distiller at Harvest Spirits. He is actively in charge of the distillery and all aspects of the distilling process, as well as product development. Derek’s responsibilities range from designing product packaging and website development, to scrubbing tanks and promoting the products. A graduate of Cornell University, Derek began his career as a graphic designer in Boston, MA. After spending too much time in front of his computer, he decided to return to his roots. In 2003, Derek moved back to the family apple farm in the Hudson Valley to help his father and to learn the family business of growing apples. He continues to help on the farm, when he’s not in the distillery.
PRODUCTS CORE VODKA CORNELIUS APPLEJACK PEAR BRANDY APPLE BRANDY CORNELIUS PEACH BRANDY CORNELIUS CHERRY BRANDY GRAPPA
IN THE SPOTLIGHT C O R N E L I U S C H E R RY B R A N DY
Years in the making, Cornelius Cherry is made by soaking sweet bing cherries in our 2-year old applejack and aging an extra year in quarter casks. Rich black fruit flavors in blend into toasted oak and a slightly spiced finish. It is 100% bing cherries and apples, aged three years, with minimal filtration and without sugar. Excellent in Manhattans and Old Fashions.
G R A P PA
A collaboration with Hudson-Chatham Winery, our Italian-inspired spirit is made of the leftovers from making wine. Grape skins are pulled out of the wine, soaked in water, making a second wine. This is twice distilled, rendering a spirit loaded with flavors of sun-dried raisins, date and apricot. Although Grappa is often compared to harsh, homemade hootch, our Grappa is comparably mellow and smooth —a modern revision of a true classic.
DISTILLERY HARVEST SPIRITS
OWNER Derek Grout
ADDRESS 3074 US Route 9 Valatie, NY 12184
DISTILLER Derek Grout
PHONE 518-253-5917 EMAIL email@example.com WEBSITE www.harvestspirits.com OPEN Sat–Sun, 12pm–5pm or by appointment TASTING FEES $1.00 each (limit 3 per person) TOURS Yes ACREAGE 200 acre apple farm PRODUCTION 1,500 cases
EVENTS DISTILLING 101: Learn how we make our Core Vodka, every weekend during business hours
For a complete list of Hudson-Berkshire Trail events visit: www.HudsonBerkshireExperience.com
GETTING HERE FROM ALBANY AREA: Take Interstate I-90 East to Exit 12. Continue on Rt. 9 South for four miles. Harvest Spirits is on the left. FROM NYS THRUWAY (RT. 87): Exit 21A for the Berkshire Extention. Follow to exit B1.Continue on Rt. 9 South for four miles. Harvest Spirits is on the left.
www.hvwinemag.com • Summer 2014
HILLROCK ESTATE DISTILLERY
HILLROCK ESTATE DISTILLERY IS LOCATED Hillrock Estate Distillery is located in the heart of the historic Hudson Valley, two hours north of New York City, overlooking the distant Berkshire Mountains. Prime farmland, crystal clear water, and a favorable climate create a unique terroir which is profoundly expressed in Hillrock’s artisanal whiskeys. Proud to be one of the few “field-to-glass” whiskey producers in the world, Hillrock is also the first U.S. distillery since before Prohibition to floor malt and hand craft whiskey on site from estate-grown grain. Led by Owner Jeffrey Baker and renowned Master Distiller David Pickerell, Hillrock’s commitment to quality embodies the rich history of craft distilling in the Hudson Valley. By controlling every aspect of production from planting and harvesting heirloom grains, to traditionally floor malting our own grain, to crafting whiskies in our 250-gallon copper pot still, to aging in small oak barrels and hand bottling, we are able to create premium whiskies unique to the Hillrock PRODUCTS Estate. The Hillrock portfolio is currently comprised of Hillrock Solera Aged Bourbon, the first U.S.-aged SOLERA AGED Solera product; Hillrock Estate Single Malt Whiskey; BOURBON George Washington’s Rye – Estate Edition; and SINGLE MALT Hillrock Estate Rye Whiskey.
RYE WHISKEY Hillrock Estate Distillery is lead by a team of experienced industry professionals committed to ensuring the highest level of quality, innovation, and collaboration in the craft industry. The team is comprised of Jeffrey Baker, Owner; David Pickerell, Master Distiller; Timothy Welly, Head of Operations & Distiller; and Danielle Eddy, Director of PR/Marketing & Sales. With a collective knowledge of more than 65 years experience, the team blends their widespread knowledge and passions into producing a distinctive spirit indicative of Hillrock’s ideals. The 1806 Georgian House overlooks the Distillery, Malt House and Granary which are located at the center of the Hillrock Estate in a state-of-the-art complex surrounded by rolling grain fields. Hillrock House was carefully restored in 2006 and the Palladian window above the entry is proudly displayed on the Hillrock bottle. Integrated into the landscape, the traditional barn structures of the distillery complex were designed to convey a simple, timeless elegance. The complex also forms the heart of our “field-to-glass” craft distilling operation. The distillery is open for reserved weekend tours, tastings and whiskey purchase.
HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer 2014
MEET THE MAKERS Owner Jeffrey Baker grew up working on farms in Western New York and was an early advocate of the farm-to-table movement. More than 20 years ago, Jeffrey established one of the region’s first pasture-raised, sustainable beef operations, producing premier black angus beef for his Saratoga Springs’ restaurant. His passion and commitment to quality led to the establishment of Hillrock Estate Distillery as one of the few distilleries in the world to floor malt its own naturally-grown grain and produce fine, hand-crafted spirits on the estate. With an MBA from the Wharton Business School and Master’s degrees in Architecture and City Planning, Jeffrey is an Executive Managing Director/ Partner of a NYC-based real estate investment banking firm. An industry icon and former Master Distiller for Makers Mark,® Dave Pickerell directs Hillrock’s production and operations as Master Distiller. Dave has over 20 years of spirit’s industry experience and is respected as one of the top Master Distillers and spirits experts globally. During his 14 years at Makers Mark, Dave oversaw an 80-person staff and was responsible for all aspects of the whiskey’s production. Dave was a Board Member and Past Chair for the Kentucky Distillers Association, recipient of the “best distillery visitor attraction in the world” designation by Whiskey Magazine, and is recognized as one of the industry’s top spirits judges. Previously Cellar Master at Millbrook Winery, Timothy Welly joined Hillrock in 2011 as Head of Operations and Distiller. Tim trained under the Head Winemaker at Millbrook Winery for four years before beginning his studies at NYC’s International Wine Center. In addition to his work at Millbrook, Tim has spent over 12 years in the restaurant and wine industry with positions in wine/spirits distribution and sales, and a wine buyer.
IN THE SPOTLIGHT S O L E R A AG E D BOURBON
The world’s first American whiskey aged according to the centuries-old Solera process historically used to create exceptional Sherries, Ports, Madeiras, and Cognacs. The whiskey is finished in Oloroso Sherry casks giving the bourbon a sweet, yet slightly spicy balance. S I N G L E M A LT WHISKEY
Hand-crafted from organically grown estate barley, floor malted traditionally and smoked on-site in New York’s only malthouse, then distilled, aged and bottled by hand. Prominent flavors of cinnamon and clove designate the Estate’s terroir in the first New York “field-to-glass” whiskey since before Prohibition.
DOUBLE CASK RYE WHISKEY
Our Double Cask aging process was selected to extract additional caramel and vanilla flavors from the wood to balance the traditional rye spiciness in the whiskey. The organically grown, estate rye clearly expresses Hillrock’s signature clove and cinnamon flavors, which are also complimented by mint, caramel and butterscotch. GEORGE WASHINGTON’S RYE – ESTATE EDITION
Pot distilled at Hillrock Estate following the General’s original recipe by Mount Vernon Master Distiller Dave Pickerell, each bottle contains an aliquot of whiskey made at the Washington’s reconstructed Distillery at Mount Vernon. A portion of the proceeds from the sale of this whiskey supports the educational programs at George Washington’s Mount Vernon.
DISTILLERY HILLROCK ESTATE DISTILLERY
MANAGER Tim Welly
ADDRESS 408 Pooles Hill Road Ancram, NY 12502
DISTILLER Dave Pickerell
PHONE 518-329-1023 EMAIL firstname.lastname@example.org WEBSITE www.hillrockdistillery.com OPEN By reservation only TASTING FEES $20.00 TOURS Yes, with tasting ACREAGE 250+ acres PRODUCTION 4,000 cases
EVENTS (check website for updated listings) June 14 Spring Open House, 12–5pm
GETTING HERE FROM TACONIC STATE PARKWAY: Taconic State Parkway to Rt. 44/Millbrook exit. Head east on Rt. 44 and turn left on Rt. 82 North about 1/2 mile from exit (before Millbrook) to Pine Plains. At stop light in center of Pine Plains village (approximately 20 minutes on Rt. 82 North), turn right on Rt. 199 East/82 North. About 1/2 mile outside village turn left on Rt. 82 North. Go past two horse farms (approx. 2 miles) and past Finkle Rd. on left. At next road, turn left onto Pooles Hill Rd. Go to top of hill, past Skyline Rd. At bottom of the hill, Turn left into long gravel driveway at blue sign for “Hillrock Farm,” black mailbox #408.
OWNER Jeff Baker
www.hvwinemag.com • Summer 2014
TUTHILLTOWN SPIRITS DISTILLERY
BEFORE PROHIBITION, MORE THAN 1,000 farm distillers produced alcohol from New York grains and fruits. Tuthilltown Spirits brings the tradition of small batch distillation back to the Hudson Valley, distilling whiskeys which were the first legally distilled and aged grain spirits produced in New York since Prohibition. New York’s first Bourbon is Hudson Baby Bourbon, distilled from 100% New York corn. For 220 years Tuthilltown Gristmill, a landmark which is listed on the National Register of Historic Places, used waterpower to render local grains to flour. In 2001 Ralph Erenzo and Vicki Morgan acquired the property and with the help of partner Brian Lee, they converted one of the mill granaries to a micro-distillery. Two and a half years later, Tuthilltown Spirits produced the first batches of vodka from scraps collected at a local apple slicing plant.
Today, Tuthilltown Spirits distills vodka from apples grown at orchards less than five miles away and whiskeys using grain harvested by farmers less than ten miles away. The farm distillery also produces gin, rum, eau de vie, brandy, absinthe, and liqueurs. Guests are welcome to stop in for tastings during store hours and tours are offered by appointment.
HALF MOON ORCHARD GIN HUDSON BABY BOURBON HUDSON FOUR GRAIN BOURBON HUDSON
Tuthilltown Spirits proudly celebrates the following MANHAT TAN RYE achievements: HUDSON SINGLE 2013: San Francisco World Spirits Competition M ALT – Double Gold Medal: Hudson Four Grain Bourbon – Gold Medal: Hudson Baby Bourbon HUDSON NEW YORK – Silver Medal: Hudson Single Malt Whiskey CORN WHISKEY – Silver Medal: Hudson Corn Whiskey INDIGENOUS 2012: International Wines & Spirits Competition – Silver Medal: Hudson Baby Bourbon FRESH PRESSED – Silver Medal: Hudson Four Grain Bourbon APPLE VODKA – Bronze Medal: Hudson NY Corn Whiskey INDIGENOUS – Bronze Medal: Hudson Manhattan Rye Whiskey E MPIRE STATE 2012: American Distilling Institute Competition W HEAT VODKA – Silver Medal: Hudson Four Grain Whiskey 2012: San Francisco World Spirits Competition ROGGEN’S RUM – Silver Medal, Hudson New York Corn Whiskey (aged in whiskey barrels) – Bronze Medal, Hudson Four Grain Bourbon – Silver Medal, Hudson Manhattan Rye TUTHILLTOWN – Silver Medal, Hudson New York Single Malt CASSIS LIQUEUR 2011: San Francisco World Spirits Competition – Double Gold Medal, Hudson Baby Bourbon 2011: Craft Whiskey Distillery of the Year, Tuthilltown Spirits, Whisky Magazine 2011: Craft Whiskey of the Year, Hudson Four Grain Bourbon, Whisky Guild 2010: American Artisan Distillery of the Year, Tuthilltown Spirits, American Distillers Institute 2010: Best New American Whiskeys of the Year, Hudson Whiskeys, Food & Wine Magazine 2010: Best Package Award, Hudson Manhattan Rye, American Distillers Institute
HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer 2014
MEET THE DISTILLERS Ralph Erenzo, Distiller, Partner Ralph brings 35 years of production and development experience to the distillery. Prior to starting Tuthilltown Spirits, his business ExtraVertical Inc. provided technical services to corporate and media clients for projects that required technical skills developed over his 25-year rock climbing career. Ralph built and managed New York City’s first public climbing gyms including The ExtraVertical Climbing Center on Broadway. His dream of a “climbers ranch” near the largest rock climbing area in the East were set aside in favor of producing high quality spirits. Ralph’s writing and commentary have been featured in national media including Op Ed columns for the New York Times. His work at the State level has resulted in the passage of the Farm Distillery Act which permits New York farms to establish distilleries on site and sell their agricultural spirits at the farm. Born and raised a New Yorker, he has realized a lifelong dream of settling in the Hudson Valley. His son Gabe manages production at the distillery. Brian Lee, Distiller, Partner Brian has designed and built the technical facilities for Tuthilltown Spirits. He is responsible for engineering and all technical aspects of fermentation and distillation for the company. Brian serves as CFO for the company. Prior to his work with Tuthilltown Spirits, Brian was a senior technical designer for a company building high-end broadcast television facilities. His clients included SKY Latin-America, CBS, and NBC. He served as the on-site technical consultant for ESPN’s conversion to High Definition Television (HDTV). Brian’s technical and mechanical skills ensure all the systems at the distillery continue to function and we are constantly on the search for more efficient methods. He is currently contemplating hydro and solar power as supplemental energy sources.
IN THE SPOTLIGHT B ATC H N U M B E R S
Each hand-made batch is truly unrepeatable. Call the tasting room to inquire about the distillers’ favorite batch numbers of the season. FA R M M A R K E TS
New laws allowing distilled spirits sales at farm markets will be passed soon! Please keep an eye out for Tuthilltown Spirits at the farm markets nearest you.
THE ESSENTIALS DISTILLERY TUTHILLTOWN SPIRITS DISTILLERY
PRODUCTION 22,000 cases
ADDRESS 14 Grist Mill Lane Gardiner, NY 12525
OWNERS Ralph Erenzo and Brian Lee
GETTING HERE FROM NORTH (ALBANY): Take NYS Thruway 87 South. Exit 18 for NY-299 toward New Paltz/Poughkeepsie. Turn left at NY-299 W/Main St. Turn left at NY-32 S. Turn right at NY-55 W/U.S. 44 W/Main St. Turn left at Albany Post Rd/Co Rd 9. Make the 1st right onto Tuthilltown Rd. Take the 2nd left off of Tuthilltown Rd. at the Tuthilltown Spirits sign. FROM SOUTH (NYC): Take NYS Thruway 87 North. Exit 17 and follow signs for Route 300. Head North on Route 300. Turn left at NY-55 W/U.S. 44 W/Main St. Turn left at Albany Post Rd/Co Rd 9. Take the 1st right onto Tuthilltown Rd. Take the 2nd left off of Tuthilltown Rd. at the Tuthilltown Spirits sign.
EMAIL email@example.com WEBSITE www.tuthilltown.com OPEN Year round Mon–Fri, 11am–6pm; Sat, 11am–6pm; Sun, 12–6pm
MANAGER Luz Reid DISTILLERS The entire team contributes to the production of our products.
EVENTS View our website for up-to-date listings of tastings and special events: tuthilltown.com/category/events
CLOSED Christmas TASTING FEES $10 per person TOURS No charge on weekends!
GPS address: 14 Gristmill Ln Gardiner, NY 12525
www.hvwinemag.com • Summer 2014
CROSSROADS BREWING COMPANY
AFTER YEARS OF SEARCHING for a suitable property to build their dream, Ken Landin and Janine Bennett purchased the historic Brooks Opera House in October of 2009. A year of renovations later, Crossroads Brewing Company opened with a 7 barrel brew house and a small tasting room, with the first taste being poured in October of 2010. Renovations continued with their pub opening in June of 2011, then finally the full kitchen and restaurant in June 2012. This unique building has once again become the pride of this beautiful riverside village just as it was in 1893. The walls are filled with old photos of Athens, as it was in its heyday, and many of their customers are thrilled to find their own relatives among the snapshots. The name Crossroads has several different meanings to Ken and Janine. Most simply, it came from being at a crossroads in life and deciding to choose the path that headed towards their dream of opening a brewery. But more deeply, it’s about the journey and choices that bring a person to where they are at that moment in their life. It’s about direction, purpose and choosing to make a difference. They have an unshakable dedication to supporting their PRODUCTS community which has shaped the business into what it is today with its loyal following that continues to grow. OUTRAGE INDIA
PALE ALE Crossroads is proud to feature meats, cheeses and produce from several small farms in the Hudson Valley on their menu. They have 10 of their own brews on tap and a few New York State wines as well. They’ll be adding a handful of local liquors to the lineup before the summer. Their customers enjoy knowing that when they support Crossroads, they are supporting the incredible farming and artisan heritage that the valley is known for. Their craft brews are also available at several bars and restaurants throughout the Hudson Valley. Check our website for a complete list.
BLACK ROCK STOUT LIGHTHOUSE WHEAT BRADY'S BAY CREAM ALE BRICK ROW RED ALE
5 S E A S O N A L LY Along with their other weekly specials, Crossroads’ awardROTATING TAPS winning Head Brewer, Hutch Kugeman, taps a fresh cask brew every Thursday. Cask ale starts out the same as any other, but instead of being force carbonated near the end of the brew process, it’s put in a cask and allowed a secondary fermentation which creates natural carbonation. The cask ale is also served slightly warmer than draft which helps bring out the complex flavors of the beer. Most weeks, the customer can try the cask brew along side the draft and taste the difference themselves. Tune in! Co-owner Ken Landin takes to the airwaves on the third Tuesday of every month to host Hudson Valley Tap Talk on WGXC 90.7FM. The program includes discussions with brewers, hop farmers and distillers from throughout the Hudson Valley and beyond. If you’re out of the listening area, you can listen live at WGXC.org.
HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer 2014
MEET THE BREWER & CHEF Hutch Kugeman, Head Brewer: Hutch was born and raised in Redding, CT and began his brewing career working under esteemed brewer Darron Welch at the Pelican Pub & Brewery in Pacific City, OR in 2002. In 2003 he moved across the country to work for Great Adirondack Brewing in Lake Placid, NY. Hutch took over Great Adirondack as Head Brewer in 2004 and during his tenure there he received numerous awards for his beer at the Great American Beer Festival, World Beer Cup, North American Beer Awards and TAP NY festival. After a stop at Ithaca Beer Company he joined Crossroads as the founding brewer in 2010 and brewed the inaugural batch of Outrage IPA in September of that year. Hutch is a graduate of the University of Virginia as well as the American Brewer's Guild program in Brewing Science & Engineering. He brews a variety of different beers throughout the year but prefers to focus on full-flavored and drinkable American and Belgian-style ales. Paul Parillo, Executive Chef: Paul was born into the restaurant business in Amsterdam, NY and was later educated and trained in New York City. After attending the Institute of Culinary Education, he gained valuable experience working in Manhattan at Tribeca Grill and at Corporate Chef Catering. In 2012 he moved to the Hudson Valley to be closer to the top quality farms and purveyors he had been working with in New York, and to embrace farm-to-table cuisine. That same year, Paul joined the Crossroads team as they opened their kitchen. Paul is proud to be serving classic and inventive American pub fare using the freshest locally sourced ingredients the area has to offer.
IN THE SPOTLIGHT B R E W E R ’S R E S E RV E S E R I E S
Hutch hand bottles a different beer for his Brewer's Reserve Series for limited release each month. You can take your bottle to go or enjoy it right at the pub.
AWA R D S & AC C O L A D E S
2014 World Beer Cup Gold Medal: Best Foreign Style Stout – Black Rock Stout TAP NY Silver Medal Best Craft Beer in the Hudson Valley: Outrage IPA 2013 Hudson River Craft Beer Festival Second Place: Outrage IPA Great American Beer Festival Bronze Medal: Belgian Style Saison 2012 Hunter Beer & Wine Festival Best Brewery 2011 Mathew Vassar Cup Best Brewery in the Hudson Valley TAP NY – Best Beer New York State: Bronze Medal John Calen Award Best IPA New York Hudson Valley Magazine Best Brewery in the Hudson Valley Greene County Planning Board Ellen Rettus Planning Achievement Award
GETTING HERE FROM NORTH (ALBANY): NYS Thruway South to Exit 21B Coxsackie. Turn left onto Rt. 9W South. Follow Rt. 9W for 7.4 miles to Schoharie Turnpike and make a left. In 2.8 miles turn left onto Second St. and head down the hill. Crossroads is on the right, two blocks before the Hudson River. FROM SOUTH (NYC): NYS Thruway North to Exit 21 Catskill. After the toll, make a right onto 23B. Make your first right on Forrest Hills Ave. Then make the first right onto Leeds Athens Rd. Follow Leeds Athens Rd. under the Thruway and across Rt. 9W until you get to Second St. in the Village of Athens. Make a right on Second St. and head down the hill. Crossroads is on the right, two blocks before the Hudson River.
THE ESSENTIALS BREWERY CROSSROADS BREWING COMPANY
OWNERS Janine Bennett, Ken Landin
ADDRESS 21 Second Street Athens, NY 12015
BREWER Hutch Kugeman
PHONE 518-945-BEER EMAIL firstname.lastname@example.org WEBSITE crossroadsbrewingco.com
CHEF Paul Parillo
EVENTS For more on events and beer festivals check the website. Aug Belgium Comes to Cooperstown
OPEN Mon–Thurs, 4–9pm; Fri, 4–10pm; Sat, 1–10pm; Sun 1–9pm CLOSED Tuesdays, Thanksgiving, Christmas
Hudson River Craft Beer Fest, Beacon
Bethel Woods Craft Beer Festival
TOURS Free, Saturdays between 1–4pm (call ahead) PRODUCTION 850 barrels
www.hvwinemag.com • Summer 2014
Wines of the Hudson Valley continued from page 6 In addition to the carbon dioxide and small amounts of alcohol produced by this secondary fermentation, sediment is also produced which can make the wine cloudy. To keep the wine clear, the bottle is placed upside down on a “riddling rack.” The winemaker, over the course of several months to several years, will gradually turn the bottle, a process known as “riddling,” so that the sediment collects into the narrow neck of the bottle. This sediment is important to the aging process because it consists of spent yeast cells that give an added complexity, richness, and greater flavor concentration to the sparkling wine. The next step in the process requires using dry ice to freeze the neck of the bottle and the sediment that rests firmly against the cork. The cork is quickly removed, and the frozen ice plug with its sediment is forced out by the gas pressure. As quickly as possible, the winemaker refills the little amount of wine lost from the bottle with a bit of another wine, called a dosage. It is this dosage that adds the desired amount of final sweetness. A permanent cork is then inserted and secured with a wire hood and the bottle is placed in the cellar for bottle aging, a process which can take several years before being released on the market.
A Distinguishing Difference Other processes to manufacture sparkling wine are variations of this second fermentation concept. There is a distinction between a sparkling wine being fermented in “the” bottle and being fermented in “a” bottle. An expensive, time-consuming difference is, as noted above, when the plug is removed and a small amount of a wine dosage is placed back into the same bottle and corked. With wine fermented in “a” bottle, all of the sparkling wine is pulled out of the bottle and placed in a large pressurized tank to retain its carbonization. This wine is then filtered and bottled under pressure. Using a bulk process known as Metodo Martinotti in Italy, and Méthode Charmat in France, (as developed by the Italian Federico Martinotti, and adapted by Eugene Charmat of France), the still wine undergoes the secondary fermentation in a large stainless steel tank. As pressure increases, the carbon dioxide is trapped and dissolves in the wine. When the fermentation is complete, this tank of sparkling wine is then filtered, and bottled under pressure, with the desired dosage added. The simplest and least expensive way to make a sparkling wine is to inject carbon dioxide gas under pressure into the still wine during the bottling operation, similar to how soda or pop is made. Using this carbonation process, the bubbles will be large and upon release of the cork, its sparkling nature will disappear quickly as it does with any carbonated drink. In contrast, with the Méthode Champenoise or Charmat method the wine stays carbonated for a longer period of time, and the size of the bubbles is much smaller. Most sparkling wines are white, and the term “Blanc de Blancs” is used to designated sparkling wine made exclusively from white grapes, usually Chardonnay. These are considered the most elegant and delicate of sparkling wines. Red or rosé wine can also be used as the base for sparkling wine, and a “Blanc de Noirs” is made exclusively from red grapes, traditionally Pinot Noir and/or Pinot Meunier in France. These wines generally have the most body and fruit. Historically in the U.S., and especially in New York, red sparkling wines were called by the generic misnomer “Sparkling Burgundy,” and could consist of Delaware, Concord, or Catawba wines. A popular item during the 1960s and early 1970s was “Cold Duck” – a blend of red “Sparkling Burgundy” with a white-based “Champagne.” Although deemed by many to be a silly, passing fad, Cold Duck is often credited with a threefold increase of sparkling wine consumption in the U.S. Today, local wineries are following in the sparkling wine tradition with Baldwin Vineyards, Brimstone Hill Vineyard, Hudson-Chatham Winery, along with Brotherhood, America’s Oldest Winery, and Whitecliff Vineyard offering quality sparkling wines.
HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer 2014
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email@example.com www.hvwinemag.com • Summer 2014
T H E
C O N V I V I A L
T A B L E
Summertime Sparklers By Josyane Colwell,
Le Moulin Event Planning & Catering www.lemoulincatering.com
he Hudson Valley wineries are setting out some new wines this season with good cause to celebrate. When a few sparkling wines from local producers arrived on my doorstep for tasting, I jumped at the chance to uncork one of my favorite types of wines for summertime entertaining.
SPARKLING SUMMER COCKTAILS Sparkling wines are remarkably flexible with food from appetizers to main courses. You don’t need to wait for a special occasion to enjoy their crisp bright flavor, so here I’ve shared a few cocktail recipes to celebrate the start of summer. Have fun and experiment by adding locally distilled vodka and liqueurs to create your own Hudson Valley classic sparkling cocktail. A votre santé! •
Sparkling wines are made in many different parts of the world, and are known by just as many different names, each having a varying degree of sweetness. They are generally made with grapes other than the classic Chardonnay and Pinot Noir varietals which are the backbone of Champagne, from the region where I grew up. In France, you may find a touch of Pinot Meunier as well. So, I was curious to try the Hudson Valley’s sparkling wines, and to taste the local terroir of the North River cuvees. North River is a new partnership with the co-owner of Whitecliff Winery, and both wines are estate bottled from their own Hudson River Region grapes:
THOMAS COLE Ingredients 4 oz sparkling wine, chilled 1 oz cassis (depending on taste) 3-5 frozen raspberries
Preparation Pour cassis into a flute glass and add the frozen raspberries. Carefully pour the chilled sparkling wine to fill the glass. Serve immediately. The raspberries will thaw slowly in the cocktail adding more color and taste.
BEACON SUNRISE 1 oz vodka 2/3 oz cherry liqueur (or substitute strawberry or raspberry liqueur) 1/3 oz Triple Sec Sparkling rosé, chilled Powered sugar
Preparation Dip the rim of a flute glas into Triple Sec and powdered sugar. Pour the vodka, liqueur and Triple Sec into a cocktail shaker filled with ice. Shake for a few seconds, then pour the strained mixture into the flute and fill with sparkling rosé.
Brotherhood Sparkling Chardonnay (NY) is very fresh with a golden color and a lot of sparkle, making it a “happy” wine. With a robust flavor, it has a nice balance of fruitiness. A perfect companion to a firm, white grilled fish, like cod or halibut.
OLANA SUNSET 2/3 oz vodka 1/3 oz ginger syrup 2/3 oz Chambord 2/3 oz cranberry juice Sparkling chardonnay, chilled
Preparation Pour ingredients into a tall glass over ice cubes and fill with sparkling chardonnay. Serve with a long lemon zest and a sprig of mint.
Brotherhood New York Sparkling Wine (NY) proudly proclaims its Empire State roots with a silhouette of the Manhattan skyline on its label. This very light, very pale sparkler is a good accompaniment to fresh fruit or dessert, with slightly less effervescence than the Sparkling Chardonnay.
HUDSON RIVER AMOUR 1/2 oz vodka 1 scoop lime sherbet (or substitute with other flavors) Sparkling wine, chilled
Preparation Pour the vodka into a martini glass and add a scoop of lemon sorbet. Fill with chilled champagne and serve immediately.
North River Cuvee Méthode Champenoise (Hudson River) 60% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir, this deep, golden-colored cuvee is reminiscent of a beautiful sunset. A “growers champagne” with a springy nose and nicesized bubbles that soften subtly in the glass. North River Rosé (Hudson River) A companion to the Cuvee, this Rosé is as pink as the Méthode Champenoise is golden. Flavorful with fresh raspberry taste. A good alternative to a chilled glass of Chardonnay, and perfect for a summer wedding. Its Pinot Noir grapes come through in both flavor and color. I also tasted two bottles produced in the Charmat style from Brotherhood, America’s Oldest Winery, which has the longest history of sparkling wine production in the region:
HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer 2014
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Here in Dutchess County, the Hudson Valley has its own distinct character.
DUTCHESS Simple and Sophisticated. You Deserve Dutchess.
www.hvwinemag.com â€˘ Summer 2014
SEEDLINGS MOVIES q
WHAT’S NEW TO BUY, TRY, OR DO
SEEN & NOTED
UNLEASH YOUR INNER ARTIST
While many comedy films explore the “stuck in a rut” theme, writer and director J. Rick Castaneda’s Cement Suitcase is a stand-out, with its well-executed filmography, a spectacular cast and a perfect balance of serious undertones blended with outright laughs.
Looking for something new to do? How does a night that starts with a few drinks, a few laughs, and a couple of hours of instruction—and ends with something new to hang on your wall— sound to you? We know art and wine is a perfect pairing, but now Vine Van Gogh makes it personal. By pairing local restaurants, bars, inns, wineries, cupcake and cheese shops (yes, really!) with local artists, they’ll guide you through the creation of a painting, step-by-step. Purchase a ticket in advance, and arrive at the venue to find an individual easel and canvas just waiting for your creativity to be uncorked. Sound like fun? Grab a group of friends and watch your inner Picasso emerge (or not). Vine Van Gogh will even work with you to schedule a private party or fundraising event. For a list of upcoming events and to purchase tickets, visit www.vinevangogh.com
MOVE OVER, WALLABY
The film is centered around Franklin (Dwayne Bartholomew) – the best tasting room manager in Yakima Valley – whose life has become “stuck.” The humorous events throughout Cement Suitcase lead its main character to self-discovery and a decision to leave his baggage behind, while viewers follow his poignant journey with laughs, and perhaps a sip of reality. While the storyline focuses on hitting bottom, the film’s polished look and quality cast of quirky characters give it a fresh take on an old theme. Not surprisingly, Cement Suitcase has won numerous awards on the festival circuit. Oenophiles have also embraced the film and the filmmaker, “…the wine community has really reach[ed] out to this film and made us feel like family,” notes director Rick Castaneda. Feeling stuck? Cork open your favorite bottle of wine, download Cement Suitcase and settle in to taste some great entertainment. Buy or rent on iTunes or Amazon, or visit www.cementsuitcase.com. Bring the movie to your town: www.tugg.com/titles/cement-suitcase Like us
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HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer 2014
The Aussies may have initiated the critter label craze with the marketing of Yellow Tail back in the early 2000s, but critters on labels mean some serious fun in the Hudson Valley. Hardly imitators, wildlife takes many unique forms here, from the signature unicorn that has been adorning Baldwin Vineyards’ award-winning fruit wines for decades, to the frolicking carnivores on Cereghino Smith’s Eaten by Bears found on wine lists as prestigious as the CIA. And, there’s a no-nonsense wine behind Red Monkey’s cool shades on the label of Glorie Farm Winery’s food-friendly, red blend of DeChaunac, Cab Franc and Chambourcin. But the starry-eyed geese that flank Applewood Winery’s Naked Flock ciders take critter labeling to the local level. The quirky illustration—depicting a folktale involving a preacher, some poppies, and a curious gaggle of “unfeathered” friends—is as original as the naturally-fermented ciders’ fresh-pressed Hudson Valley apple flavor. All proof that you can’t always judge a wine, or cider, by its critter. Visit winery websites for details.
CHILL IT! Just in time for summer, these sleek, freezable bags will keep wine, champagne, or even a six-pack of your favorite brew chilled to perfection. Simply put the bag in your freezer and it turns into an instant cooler – the freezable cells will keep your bottles chilled. In vibrant, eye-catching colors, the functional Chill It bags are available in a multitude of sizes and designs, and come with a sturdy handle for carrying to outdoor barbeques, picnics, or beach parties. These bags are so versatile, you’re sure to find other uses for them too! www.chillitbags.com
THE WORLD ATLAS OF WINE 7TH EDITION Hugh Johnson & Jancis Robinson
Much has changed in the world of wine since The World Atlas of Wine was first published in 1971. The new 400-page seventh edition chronicles emerging wine trends with an updated, fresh look as well. And, for the first time in its 43-year history, the complete work is also available as an iPad eBook with its dynamic text, stunning photographs, charts and maps brought to life in beautiful back-lit color. The World Atlas of Wine is widely recognized by critics and experts as the most authoritative wine resource available, but its accessible, unpretentious approach and bold infographic style confirms its rightful place on both the well-versed and beginner wine buff’s bookshelf. Acclaimed wine writers Jancis Robinson and Hugh Johnson help readers maneuver the complicated subjects of rising wine regions, climate change, consumer tastes, and new winemaking techniques in an enjoyable style, punctuated with specially created charts and more than 200 maps. The World Atlas of Wine takes a comprehensive look at the world and explores more than seventy North American vineyards, including northern Virginia for the first time. Just two pages are dedicated to the wine regions of New York State, with the Hudson Valley region garnering mentions for its vinifera and French hybrids, noting Brotherhood as New York’s first commercial winery, and Millbrook Vineyards for demonstrating that Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc and Friulano can thrive in this “pretty upstate region.” Since its first release, the Atlas has been published in over 15 languages, with more than 4.5 million copies sold worldwide, but never before has navigating worldwide wine trends been more accessible with the addition of the digital version. On the road of wine, this definitive atlas paves the way.
Spirits Grove Farm 1727 Rte 9, Clermont, NY | 703.888.8508 Tours and tastings Fri–Sun 12–6 hudsonvalleydistillers.com
Small Batch Vodka and Applejack
Cleanse your palate at the Windham Vineyards & Winery located in Windham, NY. Open 7 days a week, the new owners are excited to serve you! Attend a tasting today.
Published by Octopus Publishing Group Ltd. | $55.00 iPad eBook | $29.99 www.worldatlasofwine.com www.greatnortherncatskills.com/attractions/windham-vineyards-winery
HOW DID BROTHERHOOD SURVIVE PROHIBITION? Read
The Story of Brotherhood, America’s Oldest Winery BY ROBERT BEDFORD
F L I N T M I N E P R E SS www.flintminepress.com www.hvwinemag.com • Summer 2014
in Hudson Valley Wine Country
By Debbie Gioquindo,
CTC , CSW, WLS
Wine has been a central part
of weddings for centuries, making it (almost) as integral to the ceremony and celebration as the couple being toasted! (Wine even, arguably, created the honeymoon: the word itself hails from the ancient Nordic tradition of a family feeding a newly married couple honey wine for a period of 30 days, or a moon’s waxing and waning, to commemorate and start their new life together).
These days, wine is often seen as symbol of a couple’s joy at finding a partner to share their life’s adventures with, and a vehicle they and their loved ones utilize to toast their coming journey.
Getting Started There are many wineries in wine country, but not all of them offer their property for weddings. It’s important that you drive through Hudson Valley wine country to scout the different venues and locales and get an idea of where you want your wedding. And don’t forget other options that serve local wines and provide the fantastic backdrop that wineries do as well. Take into consideration: • Winery or venue size • The view • Amenities at the facility • If a winery, the wine • Photo ops!
Here at the Hudson Valley Wine Magazine, we have created a template for brides and grooms who know they want to get married here but don’t know where to start.
Before you even start scouting for the setting, get back to basics. Here are some questions you will need to answer before hitting the road: • How many people will be invited • Budget • Ideal wedding date and an alternate date • Overall vision
Winery contacts: BENMARL WINERY | Marlboro Casey 845.236.4265 www.benmarl.com BROTHERHOOD, AMERICA’S OLDEST WINERY | Washingtonville www.brotherhood-winery.com Donny 845.496.3661 MILLBROOK VINEYARDS & WINERY Millbrook | www.Millbrookwine.com Tedi 845.677.8383
For many contemporary couples with an epicurean flair, holding their reception at an actual winery is the next logical step in the evolution of wine and weddings. The Hudson Valley, with its ravishing scenery and easy accessibility via train, plane or car, has seen an influx of thirsty brides and grooms eager to take their party to an entirely new level.
In addition to the obvious taste treats that await, the photo options abound. Most Hudson Valley wineries and similar venues offer the backdrop of gnarled vines, meandering creeks carrying clear mountain water, fruit orchards and uninterrupted vistas of green and blue in every shot. There are also a growing number of rustic barns to choose from, like Apple Barn Farm and Owls Hoot Barn, that embody the shabby chic aesthetic the Hudson Valley is famous for. Many wineries and barns in the Hudson Valley welcome couples with open arms, from rolling out special toasts with local sparkling wine to giving brides and grooms the opportunity to seal their love in the vineyard where the grapes were harvested or the fields where animals frolic.
WARWICK VALLEY WINERY | Warwick www.wvwinery.com 845.258.4858 WHITECLIFF VINEYARD | Gardiner www.whitecliffwine.com Yancey 845.255.4613
Warwick Valley Winery 60
HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer 2014
PHOTOS: Josyane Colwell, LeMoulinCatering.com; (far left) Courtesy Warwick Valley Winery.
Apple Barn Farm 564 County Route 10, Germantown, NY 12546 518-929-7801 | www.applebarnfarm.com The Hudson Valley’s Premier Wedding Venue — Thirteen years of making memories.
Apple Barn Farm
On the Road
After you’ve set up a few appointments, analyze the results (yes, some of these seem obvious, but it’s important to build a basic plan upon which you can build your elaborate vision): • Did you and the event coordinator “click”? • Will they work within your budget? • Do they provide a date timetable on what needs to be completed and contracted by when? (The last thing you want to hear a week before your wedding is you need to rent a porta-potty or generator.) • Is there an emergency weather plan? • Are there restrictions on where you and your guests can go on the property?
Owls Hoot Barn 386 Bronck Mill Road, West Coxsackie, NY 12192 518-755-1706 | www.owlshootbarnweddings.com The Hudson Valley’s newest barn wedding venue, a little off the beaten path.
SEASONAL LOCAL SUSTAINABLE
RESTAURANT TH–SAT 6P–9:30P SUN 5P–8:30P
MARKET HOURS TH–SUN 8A–4P
Restaurant Café On & Off-Premise Catering BANGALL,NY
Millbrook Vineyards & Winery Honing in Most wineries in the Hudson Valley can accommodate between 150 and 300 people, but some, like Warwick Valley Winery has alternatives if you are planning a smaller wedding. They offer their tasting room and patio that can hold between 80 and 145 guests.
Event Planning - Fine Catering Planning: making every client’s unique dream come true from beginning to end! Food: from ingredients to concept, tastefully yours. Design: texture and color and light. Execution: perfection that flows from within.
The average site fee for a five to six hour wedding ranges from $7,000–$7,500. In most cases, it includes a tent. (Warwick Valley Winery, Whitecliff Vineyard, as well as Brotherhood, America’s Oldest Winery do not include the tent rental). Some wineries offer more than the vineyard, too: Brotherhood’s site rental includes the Grand Hall at Grand Monarque Hall which encompasses the patio and an outdoor ceremony location. At some wineries, the aesthetic is a bit more down to earth (literally), with the reception being conducted in the middle of the vines. Whitecliff includes a 40amp generator, as do some other wineries (double-check ahead of time) which may come in handy depending on your electricity needs (a requirement if you want to hit the dance floor)!
Getting Closer As important as the site and drink is, so is the food and the logistical staging (including tent rental, set-up and break-down if the site doesn’t provide it). Choosing the right
continued on page 63 PHOTOS: (top) Aaron Almendral, http://aaronalmendral.tumblr.com; (bottom) Courtesy Millbrook Vineyards & Winery
Le Moulin NEW YORK - HUDSON VALLEY - CONNECTICUT - NEW JERSEY
914.469.6762 FAX 914.591.4680 www.LeMoulinCatering.com www.hvwinemag.com • Summer 2014
WINE COUNTRY TRAVEL
Hudson Valley Wine Magazine & Hudson Valley Wine Market present
N EE WIIN W
’ M E R R S A F ARMERS ’
Saturdays 1– 4pm June 14 • July 19 • Sept 13 • Oct 11 119 Main Street & Gardiner Gables Gardiner Free admission
Applewood Winery • Brotherhood, America’s Oldest Winery • Cereghino Smith • Clinton Vineyards • Doc’s Cider • Glorie Farm Winery • Hudson-Chatham Winery LunaGrown Jams • Millbrook Winery • Naked Flock Cider Robibero Winery • Warwick Valley Winery & Distillery Yankee Folly Cider • Tantillo’s Market • Tuthilltown Spirits Not all vendors will participate on all event dates.
Farm Fresh & Cellar-Aged Fun
FARMERS ’ m
MARKET F re
sh & Cellar
A All ll the t he Raj R aj Frederic Church and Lockwood de Forest PAINTING, DECORATING DECORATING AND PAINTING, AND OLAN LANA A COLLECTING AT OLANA
Featuring oil ske sketches tches and paintings by Church and de Forest of the view from Olana and a rar raree 19th century collection of decorative arts from India that de Forest designed and provided for the interiors of the house at Olana.
GUEST CURATED BY ROBERTA A. MAYER
THE OLANA PARTNERSHIP AND THE NEW YORK STATE OFFICE OF PARKS, RECREATION AND HISTORIC PRESERVATION PRESENT
May 11 through November 2, 2014 Evelyn and Maurice Sharp Gallery TTuesday-Sunday uesday-Sunday
OLANA STATE HISTORIC SITE, HUDSON, NY >ŽĐĂƚĞĚ ĂĂƚ >ŽĐĂƚĞĚ ƚ ϱ ϱϳϮϬ ϳϮϬ ZŽƵƚĞ ZŽƵƚĞ ϵ' ϵ' ŝŶ ŝŶ , ,ƵĚƐŽŶ͕ ƵĚƐŽŶ͕ E Ez͘ z͘ ddŚĞ ŚĞ ĂĂƌƟƐƚͲ ƌƟƐƚͲ ĚĞƐŝŐŶĞĚ Ě ĞƐŝŐŶĞĚ ůůĂŶĚƐĐĂƉĞ ĂŶĚƐĐĂƉĞ ǁ ǁŝƚŚ ŝƚŚ Į ĮǀĞ ǀĞ ŵ ŵŝůĞƐ ŝůĞƐ Ž ŽĨ Ĩ ĐĐĂƌƌŝĂŐĞ ĂƌƌŝĂŐĞ ƌƌŽĂĚƐ ŽĂĚƐ ŝŝƐ Ɛ Ž ŽƉĞŶ ƉĞŶ ĚĂŝůǇ Ě ĂŝůǇ ĨĨƌŽŵ ƌŽŵ ϴ ϴĂŵͲƐƵŶƐĞƚ͘ ĂŵͲƐƵŶƐĞƚ͘ ' 'ƵŝĚĞĚ ƵŝĚĞĚ Ś ŚŽƵƐĞ ŽƵƐĞ ƚƚŽƵƌƐ ŽƵƌƐ ŝŝŶĐůƵĚŝŶŐ ŶĐůƵĚŝŶŐ ƚƚŚĞ ŚĞ ĞĞǆŚŝďŝƟŽŶ ǆŚŝďŝƟŽŶ ĂĂǀĂŝůĂďůĞ ǀĂŝůĂďůĞ ddƵĞƐͲ^ƵŶ͕ ƵĞƐͲ^ƵŶ͕ ϭ ϭϬĂŵͲϰƉŵ͕ ϬĂŵͲϰƉŵ͕ D DĂǇ ĂǇ ϭ ϭϭͲEŽǀ ϭͲEŽǀ Ϯ Ϯ͘͘ D ŽƌĞ ŝŝŶĨŽ͘ ŶĨŽ͘ ĐĐĂůů Ăůů ϱ ϭϴ͘ϴϮϴ͘Ϭϭϯϱ Ž ƌ ǀǀŝƐŝƚ ŝƐŝƚ ǁ ǁǁ͘ŽůĂŶĂ͘ŽƌŐ͘ DŽƌĞ ϱϭϴ͘ϴϮϴ͘Ϭϭϯϱ Žƌ ǁǁǁ͘ŽůĂŶĂ͘ŽƌŐ͘ Frederic Church’s
Made possible with generous support from:
STATE HISTORIC SITE
A National Historic Landm Landmark ark
SSAVE AVE THE D DATE ATE The Olana Partnership’s Summer Party FOOD, FOOD, WINE AND A SUNSET
Saturday, August 16, 2014 F For or mor more e inf information ormation and detai details ls visit visit www.olana.org www .olana.org 62
HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer 2014
continued from page 61
The Hudson Valleyâ€™s Valleyâ€™s premier â€œSip and PPaintâ€? aintâ€?
caterer will help make your event look and run well â€“ so remember that itâ€™s not just about the food when you begin setting up appointments. Start by consulting with the event coordinator at your site â€“ their recommendations will help ensure your weddingâ€™s success, as theyâ€™ll only recommend companies that theyâ€™ve worked with before. Look for a caterer with menus that include local and seasonal farm-fresh foods so you and your guests can experience the best the Hudson Valley has to offer.
Although the tasting room will be open, wine tasting isnâ€™t always included with your fee; if you want to offer â€œthe tasting room experienceâ€? to your guests, arrange it with the winery ahead of time. And keep in mind that some wineries offer custom labeling so you can personalize your wines too.
Brotherhood, Americaâ€™s Oldest Winery
Looking for something new to do? Enjoy a night of drinks, painting, fun, fun, and rela relaxation xation with Van Gogh, the Hudson Valleyâ€™s Valleyâ€™s premier â€œSip and PPaintâ€? aintâ€? Vine Van
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The wine at your wedding will be specific to the wine offered at the winery â€“ several, like Whitecliff and Brotherhood also produce the sparkling wines youâ€™ll want to serve that day. There is usually a 15% to 20% discount on wine, depending on the winery. Brotherhood and Warwick Valley include wine in their site rental cost. If you are looking for a full bar as well, you will need to clear that with the winery, and the caterer will need to have a full liquor license permit.
@VINEVANGOGH @VINEV ANGOGH
Check out our EVENT CALENDAR at:
Youâ€™re There (Almost!) Before you walk down the vineyard aisle, make sure you have all of the more pedestrian details sorted out. Wedding attire and the call of nature, for example. It typically does not lend itself to maneuvering in a â€œJohnny on the Spot.â€? Benmarl Winery offers a very nice private restroom area for the bridal party only, and itâ€™s worth discussing your options ahead of time (some rental companies offer deluxe porta potties). Many barn venues have facilities on-site. Parking can also be an issue. Some venues are equipped and have large areas for parking, and for those that donâ€™t, you may want to explore having a local bus company provide transportation to and from the reception (it will also make happy hour much more gleeful). Make sure all your vendors have the proper licenses and permits and can furnish them to the winery at least 30 days prior to the event. You may want to protect yourself and take out wedding insurance against cancellation or other liability. If you like the idea of including a winery in your nuptual plans, but youâ€™re not quite ready to tie the knot, Benmarl, Warwick, and Millbrook can also accommodate bridal showers, rehearsal dinners, Sunday brunch, etc. Whatever your choice, the Hudson Valley venues will be happy to help you throw the kind of party you (and your guests) will be telling your grandchildren about one day.
* Clink *Clink * PHOTO: Courtesy Brotherhood, Americaâ€™s Oldest Winery
' P S 5 J D L F U T * O G P 7 J T J U X X X ) V E T P O 7 B M M F Z 8 J O F ' F T U D P N
Q S F T F O U F E C Z
www.hvwinemag.com â€˘ Summer 2014
Ty ’s T A K E - A W A Y By Michael “Ty the Wine Guy” Taiani,
Chemistry 101 If wine is just fermented grapes, then why are pineapples, apples, and kiwi fruit, with complements of spice, butterscotch, coconut, caramel, vanilla and toasty oak in my glass? If you’ve ever had the chance to taste wine grape juice before it’s been fermented (known as free-run), you know it doesn’t taste anything like the finished product, because frankly, it tastes just like grape juice. So how do all of those fruits, spices, other unique flavors arrive in any one of our Hudson Valley wines? Many have asked me, “Do the winemaker(s) physically add flavor components to make a wine taste a particular way?” Well, the answer is simply, “No.” It’s time to introduce those chemical compounds found in wine known as phenols. There are thousands of them! Don’t worry if high school chemistry wasn’t your thing—it’s just important to know that they’re responsible for most of all there is to see, smell, and taste in a wine. Take, for example, Clearview Vineyard’s Estate Seyval Blanc with its nuances of apples and melons; and Benmarl’s award-winning Baco Noir with its peppery, cherry fruit. Now if each wine’s respective maker didn’t toss bushels of apples and bing cherries into the fermentation mix, then how did the flavors get there? The answer: As the wines fermented, natural chemical compounds (phenols) were formed, and these same compounds happen to produce, yes, the scents and flavors of apples, melons, and cherries. How does this happen? During the fermentation process, as the yeasts eat the grape sugars and convert them to alcohol, heat is produced, which in turn, forms thousands of various and complex chemical compounds. It is these ubiquitous compounds, as I mentioned, that take on similar molecular arrangements to “familiar” scents that our nose and brain can categorize. So, sticking with apples, when a white wine undergoes (secondary) malolactic fermentation (the process that basically converts the tart, malic acid compounds formed during the original fermentation to lactic acid compounds), the compounds that are produced are known to give the wine its Granny Smith apple–like scents and flavors. Got it? In addition to the natural phenols, there are several other influencing factors known to impact, or even create, a wine’s overall taste profile. They can include climate, vineyard topography, and/or the varietal itself. But a certain favorite of mine and perhaps yours, too, is the one associated with the use of oak barrels. Since the days of Roman times, oak barrels have been used in the winemaking process. Their ever-leaching compounds enhance the aroma, taste, and even the texture of wine in a manner similar to the way the use of spices enhance the flavors of foods. The use of oak during a wine’s production, both during and afterwards, brings a huge array of aromatic and taste qualities to wine that include coconut, toast, coffee, cloves, smoke, cedar, tobacco, and yes, Mexican vanilla – ay carumba! With the diversity of Hudson Valley wines made from a variety of grapes—vinifera, hybrid and native—there are just as many diverse and descriptive words used to characterize them: Green apples, honeydew melons, pears, pineapples, strawberries, bing cherries, plums, blueberries, cranberries, honeysuckle, yeast, apricots, vanilla, peaches, honey, pomegranates, grapefruits, toast, cloves, and asparagus. Now that’s a lot of phenols!
HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer 2014
Wineries, Distilleries & Breweries
SCHENECTADY 162 5
9 87 890
Albany International Airport
Brookview Station Winery
Helderberg Meadworks PO Box 93 Duanesburg, NY 12056 helderbergmeadworks.com
Brookview Station Winery 1297 Brookview Station Road Castleton-on-Hudson, NY 12033 brookviewstationwinery.com
Clermont Vineyards 32
Hillrock Estate Distillery
STAT E PA RKWA Y
Tuthilltown Spirits Distillery
CHESTER SUGAR LOAF 94
Warwick Valley Winery & Black Dirt Distillery
ORANGE GREENWOOD LAKE
ROCKLAND AD PALIS
ES PA AY RKW
NEW CITY 95
R K WA Y
OO K PA
Benmarl Winery 156 Highland Avenue Marlboro, NY 12542 benmarl.com
Stoutridge Vineyard 10 Ann Kaley Lane Marlboro, NY 12542 stoutridge.com
Brimstone Hill Vineyard 61 Brimstone Hill Road Pine Bush, NY 12566 brimstonehillwine.com
Tuthilltown Spirits Distillery 14 Grist Mill Lane Gardiner, NY 12525 tuthilltown.com
Glorie Farm Winery 40 Mountain Road Marlboro, NY 12542 gloriewine.com
Whitecliff Vineyard 331 McKinstry Road Gardiner, NY 12525 whitecliffwine.com
Robibero Winery 714 Albany Post Road New Paltz, NY 12561 rnewyorkwine.com
Demarest Hill Winery & Distillery
Applewood STONYPOINT Winery HAVERSTRAW
Baldwin Vineyards 176 Hardenburgh Road Pine Bush, NY 12566 baldwinvineyards.com
32 Clearview 17 Vineyard
Ulster County DUTCHESS
Stoutridge 376 Vineyard
Stewart International Airport
Glorie Farm 32 Winery
IC ST ATE P A
Brimstone Hill Vineyard
Millbrook Vineyards & Winery 26 Wing Road Millbrook, NY 12545 millbrookwine.com
Hudson Valley Distillers 1727 Route 9 Clermont, NY 12526 hudsonvalleydistillers.com
Crossroads Brewing Company 21 Second Street Athens, NY 12015 crossroadsbrewingco.com
Millbrook 82 Vineyards & Winery
Harvest Spirits 3074 US Route 9 Valatie, NY 12184 harvestspirits.com
Greene County COPAKE FALLS
Hudson-Chatham Winery 1900 State Route 66 Ghent, NY 12075 hudson-chathamwinery.com
Clermont Vineyards 241 County Route 6 Clermont, NY 12526 clermontvineyards.com
Hillrock Estate Distillery 408 Pooles Hill Road Ancram, NY 12502 hillrockdistillery.com
Hudson Valley Distillers 82
Crossroads 81 COXSACKIE Brewing Company
Westchester County Airport
MAP L EGEND
Winery WHITE PLAINS RYE
Map of select wineries, distilleries and breweries featured in this issue. Map artwork ÂŠ2014 Hudson Valley Wine Magazine. Map may not be reproduced or used in any form without the express written permission of the publisher. Contact firstname.lastname@example.org
Applewood Winery 82 Four Corners Road Warwick, NY 10990 applewoodwinery.com Brotherhood Winery 100 Brotherhood Plaza Dr. Washingtonville, NY 10992 brotherhood-winery.com Clearview Vineyard 35 Clearview Lane Warwick, NY 10990 clearviewvineyard.com
Demarest Hill Winery & Distillery 81 Pine Island Turnpike Warwick, NY 10990 demaresthillwinery.com Palaia Vineyards 20 Sweet Clover Road Highland Mills, NY 10930 palaiavineyards.com Warwick Valley Winery & Black Dirt Distillery 114 Little York Road Warwick, NY 10990 wvwinery.com
Published on Jun 3, 2014
Summer 2014 issue featuring Vines of the Times, Sparkling Wines, Weddings in Hudson Valley Wine Country, Wineries, Distilleries and Brewerie...