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COMPLIMENTARY

H U D S O N VA L L E Y

WINE

TM

SUMMER/FALL

2012

A resource guide to the valley’s wines and wineries

INSIDE: Making Wine & Music In and Around the Hudson Valley PLUS: Cassis Distilleries & Breweries


WELCOME

CONTRIBUTORS J. Stephen Casscles (Grapes of the Hudson Valley) is a long-time local vintner and viticulturist, and as counsel and member of the State Senate Task Force for Hudson Valley Fruit Growers was responsible for several groundbreaking laws on viticulture. Casscles’ forthcoming “Grapes of the Hudson Valley” (Flint Mine Press) is a definitive volume on regional varietals culled from decades of personal tasting notes and experience. He is currently a winemaker for Hudson-Chatham Winery in Ghent.

Choices. It’s a word that’s on everyone’s mind this Fall, and one that’s so overused in an election year. Turn on the TV or your computer at just about any time of day and you’ll be faced with a multitude of options. And these days it seems we are faced with more commercials than ever before, and with that comes a staggering number of choices to be made. (And not just during campaign season!) Sure, we’ve always had choices in the kind of food we eat, the type of clothes we buy, the places we shop, and the products we use, but now we are also faced with making decisions about who to “friend’ or not “friend” on Facebook. We have to decide what’s worth tweeting about, what we pin on Pinterest, and what we blog about. Day in and day out, we’re faced with so many choices it’s surprising we manage to wade through all the clutter.

Josyane Colwell (The Convival Table), the Provençal-born founder and executive chef of Le Moulin Event Planning & Catering in Irvington, NY offers worldly sensibilities about food, presentation and ambiance. Clients such as ABC, Vera Wang, Victoria’s Secret and the National Trust for Historic Preservation have enjoyed her French delectables and white glove affairs. www.lemoulincatering.com

This is one of the reasons why we love being in the Hudson Valley. The choices seem much simpler here. Healthy, locally-grown produce? Farm-to-table dining? We got it. Alternatives to the big-box store brands? Definitely. There are plenty of artisanal products to choose from. The same holds true for beverages. Have you noticed what’s on the shelves of your favorite wine shop lately? There are literally hundreds, if not thousands of brands from all over the world to choose from. Now I’m not saying that every purchase has to be a locallymade product, but it certainly narrows down the choices when you hit the “local” section. And thankfully, after five years of publishing Hudson Valley Wine Magazine, we are finally starting to see more Hudson Valley wine and beverage choices on the shelves and on restaurant menus. And why not? The quality is constantly improving, the wines are gaining more recognition outside the region, ratings are higher, and chefs and bar owners are taking notice. Not only are Hudson Valley wines winning major awards and garnering industry accolades, but the region’s distilleries and breweries are also making great strides in the marketplace.

Wendy Crispell, WSET Advanced Certificate, Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW), (Wine-ing a Whey) is a wine and cheese specialist based in both the Hudson Valley and NYC. She writes a blog, sassysips.com, and instructs weekly wine and cheese classes aboard the motor yacht Manhattan, as well as at private and corporate tasting events. www.wendycrispellwine.com Debbie Gioquindo Certified Travel Counselor (CTC), Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW), Wine Location Specialist (WLS) (Wine Country Travel) is a wine blogger and educator, also known as the Hudson Valley Wine Goddess. Debbie is owner of Exclusive Wine Vacations and co-creator of Happy Bitch Wines. www.hvwinegoddess.com Yvette Perry (Making Wine & Music) is a longtime rock ’n’ roll music-marketer who negotiated corporate sponsorship campaigns for major recording artists; she also nabbed a GRAMMY nomination for the New York Philharmonic’s Sweeney Todd. A voting member of the GRAMMY Awards, she is also a classically trained flutist. Her love of wine was influenced at a young age by her French father; Yvette has fond memories of flying back from Paris as a 16-year-old with a 1927 Chateau d’Yquem in her bag…a story for another day.

There’s a choice in just about everything you do in life, so why not make it simple? Make a conscious choice to support our local producers – they are artisans and craftspeople making quality products. And they are people who have chosen to make the Hudson Valley part of their life. This season, enjoy your local options. And yes, please choose to like us on Facebook!

Linda Pierro Managing Editor

Dominick Fiorille

Cheers!

Michael Taiani (Ty’s Take-Away), aka “Ty the Wine Guy,” is a food and wine consultant, columnist, marketer and CEO/Owner of Wines By The Glass Enterprises and Marketing Corp., a multi-functional firm based in the Hudson Valley. Assisting people with food and wine is his mission. Find Ty on Facebook and at www.tytwg.com


HUDSON VALLEY WINE

TM

Volume 5 Issue 2 Summer/Fall 2012

H U D S O N VA L L E Y

WINE

TM

ROBERT BEDFORD EXECUTIVE EDITOR LINDA PIERRO MANAGING EDITOR / DESIGN DIRECTOR

MAGAZINE

CHERYL ELKINS ADVERTISING SALES

I N S I D E

J. STEPHEN CASSCLES VITICULTURAL CONSULTANT

Grapes of the Hudson Valley: Currants by J. Stephen Casscles

8 ADvERTISINg INquIRIES: Contact us at ads@hvwinemag.com or call 518-731-1332. SuBSCRIPTIONS: For rates, email us at info@hvwinemag.com

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Making Wine & Music In and Around the Hudson Valley

EDITORIAL CONTRIBuTIONS: We invite ideas for articles, photographs, letters and other contributions from readers. Please write us at the address below or email info@hvwinemag.com. Any manuscript or artwork submitted by mail should be accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope if you would like it returned. HVW is not responsible for the return or loss of submissions.

by Yvette Perry

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CONTACT US: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine PO Box 353, Coxsackie, NY 12051 Phone: 518 731 1332 Email: info@hvwinemag.com

Wine-ing a Whey by Wendy Crispell,

CSW, WSET

VISIT US AT: www.hvwinemag.com

13- 57 Wineries, Distilleries & Breweries NEW!

TM

HUDSON VALLEY WINE Magazine is published semiannually by Flint Mine Press, a division of Flint Mine Group, llc. ©2012 Flint Mine Group, llc. All rights reserved. Hudson Valley Wine is a trademark of Flint Mine Group, llc. Material may not be reproduced in whole or in part in any form without written permission. The magazine assumes no responsibility to return unsolicited material. No statement in this publication is to be construed as a recommendation. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. Remember to drink responsibly.

Printed by Vanguard Printing, an FSC Certified Printer

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Wine-Friendly Farm Markets The Convivial Table by Josyane Colwell Seedlings... Wine Country Travel by Debbie Gioquindo, CTC,CSW, WLS Ty’s Take-Away by Michael “Ty the Wine Guy” Taiani

PHOTOS: Courtesy Warwick Valley Winery & Distillery (top); Millbrook Vineyards & Winery (bottom)

www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012

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MAKING WINE & MUSIC In and Around the Hudson Valley Yvette Perry

The beauty and serenity of the Hudson River and its surrounding environs has been a longtime source of inspiration for artists of all types. Attend any tasting any weekend at most wineries here and you will most likely be met with the popular pairing of wine and music. Come Friday, one can find an abundance of wine and music events listed on the websites and blogs of the various wineries in the region. Walking around beautiful grounds while sipping from a glass of wine – who doesn’t enjoy listening to music while tasting the latest Riesling or Cab Franc at their favorite Hudson Valley winery? This got us thinking: why is the pairing of music and wine such a natural connection?

ood wine and great music just go together. They are two of life’s greatest pleasures. Wine contributes to our enjoyment of music. And it can also be said that music contributes to our enjoyment of wine. Each enhances the other. Emotionally, they both move us to feel more, to feel deeper, to feel differently, and to feel better.

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Wine and music are found in every known culture, dating back to the earliest civilizations and on to the present time. Both having developed into fundamental components of human life, they are cultural ground-breakers which have historically affected mankind in divergent ways throughout the centuries. Then, as now, they share common traits: creativity, emotional resonance, and cultural relevance.

THE ARTISTIC PROCESS A culture’s music is influenced by social and economic factors, climate, and access to technology. Varying by region and time period are the emotions and ideas that a piece of music conveys and the situations in which that music is played and heard. Much the same could be said of wine making. Both are works of art in their own right where the creative progression with its interplay of nuances results in something truly magical and unique. Both are mediums where the sum is greater than its individual parts, where the end product is

the culmination of an artistic process. One can make the argument that the passion for good wine and the passion for music come from a similar place inside us. Both can affect or reflect the way we are feeling. Just as a song can make us feel better, a glass of wine can fill our senses, lift our spirits, and nurture our souls. Both provide us with a channel for cherished memories and each affects us personally and in different ways. What’s a good wine? What’s a good song? Simply, it’s the one we like. With a piece of music it may be a melody, the words, or the groove that grabs you. With a wine it may be the flavors, complexity, or elegance that does the same. Before we go any further, let’s take a moment to appreciate the plentiful presence of wines in the songs we know and love. Wine has been a longtime subject for songwriters. Search popular artists’ lyrics and you will discover myriad references to the wonders of wine. Okay, so maybe alcohol is somewhat intrinsically associated with rock ’n’ roll – maybe it’s even a source of inspiration. It has been mentioned in songs of every type of genre and they reflect every type of emotion. There are songs that are happy, silly, romantic, sad, and really, really sad. Which song makes you happy? Which one reminds you of that lost love? Think about your own favorites as you check out the lyrics in the songs noted here.

SONGS OF WINE Joy to the World by Three Dog Night “Jeremiah was a bull frog. Was a good friend of mine. Never understood a single word he said, but he always had some mighty fine wine” Two-Step by Dave Matthews “Hey, my love, you came to me like wine comes to the mouth Grown tired of water all the time You quench my heart And love, you quench my mind” Pride and Joy by Stevie Ray Vaughan “Well I love my baby like the finest wine Stick with her until the end of time” Red, Red Wine by Neil Diamond, as recorded by UB40 “Red, red wine, you make me feel so fine You keep me rocking all of the time Red, red wine, you make me feel so grand, I feel a million dollars when you’re just in my hand” A Bottle of Wine and Patsy Cline by k.d. lang “When I’m falling to pieces, going crazy, With a heart that just won’t mend, A bottle of wine and Patsy Cline, And I get by again” Scenes from an Italian Restaurant by Billy Joel “A bottle of white, a bottle of red, Perhaps a bottle of rosé instead. We’ll get a table near the street In our old familiar place You and I, face to face” Good Friend and a Glass of Wine by Leann Rimes “A good friend and a glass of wine Someone to say it's gonna be alright A good friend and a glass of wine A little pick me up to get me through the night” www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012

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THE BUSINESS OF WINE & MUSIC As wine retailer and music festival organizer Peter Eastlake states, “There are a lot of wine-loving musicians.” In today’s culture, with so many high-profile celebrities and entertainers, it is perhaps fitting that wine is being made by musicians who draw from these wells of fruit as they do cherished lyrics. Artists who created imprints into our souls through music are now doing the same with their wines. Winemaking has become a second love to some of today’s most prominent melody makers and is shaping the culture tastefully. The trend of celebrities owning wineries and vineyards is not a recent phenomenon. In ancient Greek and Roman times, the leading philosophers, playwrights, politicians, and generals often owned a vineyard for personal use. There are many reasons why celebrities gravitate to the world of wine. It’s an investment. It offers the lifelong wine enthusiast an entrée to the wine industry. It’s the challenge of a new enterprise. And some leverage their name recognition as a selling tool in the wine industry. Today celebrity-owned wineries are a lucrative business; and many musi-

cians are bridging the gap between rock ’n’ roll and a generation of sophisticated connoisseurs eager for the two art forms to converge. Prophetic are the words from Bob Dylan’s indelible hit, “All Along the Watchtower”: “Businessmen they drink my wine, Plowmen dig my earth / None of them along the line know what any of it is worth.” For the most part, musician winemakers do not seem to be in the business to make a profit; rather, they seem to be more interested in creating a beautiful product and doing so in sustainable and communal ways. Some have chosen to remain behind the scenes, while others are more visible. And in all cases, they treat the art of winemaking in exactly the same spirit as they do their songwriting craft. Either owning a winery or partnering with well-known vintners, well-known musicians across every genre have gotten into the wine business. So what’s the driving force?

he purchased the Charlottesville, VA, farm in 1999. A year later the first planting was established and the winery now maintains 16 acres of grapes which include Viognier, Chardonnay, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah and Mourvedre. Much like his laidback style of music, Matthews maintains minimal environmental impact throughout the winery, the tasting room, and in the wine production process. There is Fred Smith, who was the original bassist with Blondie. Then he left to join Television. Then he played with The Roches, Willie Nile, Tom Verlaine, and The Fleshtones. The constant in his life today is playing with Television, and a small winery in Bloomington in the Hudson Valley, where he and his wife, Paula Cereghino, are handcrafting wine with an Old World approach, using grapes sourced from small growers.

For singer/songwriter Dave Matthews, known for his commitment to organic farming (he’s been on the board of Farm Aid since 2001), it’s being able to maintain sustainable agricultural practices at his own Blenheim Vineyards. A native of Virginia,

ROCK STARS who love THEIR WINE ✮ Mötley Crüe’s front man Vince Neil appreciates fine wine as his 10,000-case production of Vince Vineyards’ Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and Sonoma Chardonnay attests.

✮ Carlos Santana’s sparkling wine is bottled under Mumm Napa’s DVX label. Carlos views this collaboration as “symbolizing how his music and Mumm sparkling wine are bookmarks in people’s lives.”

✮ Sting’s 15th century Tuscany estate, Tenuta il Palagio, produces organic and biodynamic grapes used in his Casino delle Vie, and Sister Moon wines. Elaborating upon the role he plays, Sting says, “I have a job in the winery, I go down and play to the wine…And you know, if I play it true, the wine is better.”

✮ Fleetwood Mac’s Mick Fleetwood launched his first wine in 2004, under his Mick Fleetwood Private Cellar collection, a blend of Cabernet Franc and Merlot grapes. Fleetwood himself attributes his love of wine to another songwriter, Al Stewart (“Year of

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HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

the Cat”), who introduced him to the matching of food and wine.

✮ Bob Dylan’s Planet Waves signature label produces a blend of Montepulciano and Merlot grapes grown by Fattoria Le Terrazze winery in Italy.

✮ Boz Scaggs makes French-style wines in his certified-organic Scaggs Vineyard, in Napa Valley, CA. Of merging his music with his wine, “I’ve been reluctant to tie the two worlds together…I didn’t want (the wine brand) to be considered just another celebrity rendering… I believe the wine can stand on its own.”

✮ Rock and Roll Hall of Famers AC/DC teamed up with Australian winery, Warburn Estate, to produce Highway to Hell Cabernet Sauvignon and You Shook Me All Night Long Moscato.

✮ Madonna (in collaboration with her father) has Ciccone Vineyard and Winery in Michigan.

✮ Fergie has her own family vineyard and brand of wine, Ferguson Crest, in Santa Barbara, CA.

Of the connection between wine and music, Fred says, “I love them both and feel very fortunate to have careers in two things that I’m passionate about.” Fred is the first to tell you his background in wine mainly comes from touring Europe as a musician, gaining exposure to fine wines from generous promoters and wine-savvy English roadies. An homage to his art and profession, Cereghino Smith makes a Rock ’N Roll Red blend that features on the label their friends, Tish and Snooky Bellomo – sisters, singers, and founders of Manic Panic. Even former rock business managers RZO have partnered with the Mendocino Wine Company of California with the goal to produce great tasting, quality wines that are inspired by rock classics. Among their many “Official Wines of Rock ’n’ Roll” are: Pink Floyd’s The Dark Side of the Moon Cabernet Sauvignon; The Rolling Stones’ Forty Licks Merlot; Grateful Dead ‘Steal Your Face’ Red Wine Blend; and Woodstock Chardonnay. Each has beautiful artwork on the front label with back labels resembling the back of the album jacket. As it says on the label, “Pop the Cork, Turn up the Tunes and enjoy the taste of WinesThat Rock.”


THE WINERY EFFECT Wine tasting at a winery is no longer about just tasting wines. Music now plays an integral part of the event. What may have begun as background music has flourished in recent years to a groundswell of wholesale concert series! And they include wineries small and large, local and nationally recognized. Conviction and passion – both are on display by vineyard owners producing wines and presenting music. From discovering a local band to hearing world-renowned artists, there is something for every musical taste. Pun intended. This couldn’t be more true than here in the Hudson Valley. Many of the wineries’ websites announce it right there on their home page: “Live music every weekend.” And on the events page, you will find the list of open mic nights, concerts, and music festivals – a seemingly endless sea of music and wine to be savored. The Vintners At the forefront is Palaia Vineyards, a working farm in the Hudson Valley for over 200 years, and now home to over ten acres of vineyards, where the “Treehouse” and the “Sweet Clover Room” serve as music venues. Of her vineyards, owner Jan Palaggi told us, “it has turned into one of the Hudson Valley’s better music venues

thanks to the incredible talent that is in the area and comes to play here. We are musicians, and so have a great respect for other musicians and try to make playing here a good experience for them . . . The guys who work in the vineyard bring music out with them, and even when we are bottling the wine there is music playing in the cellar. We play it outside so you can hear it from the picnic area . . . Music is everywhere here. It is a part of who we are.” Palaia’s open mic night is one of their most popular attractions. Of special note, Jermaine Paul, the R&B/soul singer and songwriter who was the winner of the second season of NBC’s “The Voice” and who was born and raised in the Hudson Valley, was one of Palaia’s famous musical

guests on open mic night, rocking the house with his incredible R&B vocals. But open mic night is just the beginning at Palaia Vineyards. Both indoors and outside throughout the year they host a Beatles Tribute, an Allman Brothers Band Tribute, a Neil Young Tribute, a “Woodstock” festival, “Rick Larrimore IS Rod Stewart!,” and Patrick Perone as “ELVIS!.” If this doesn’t illustrate Palaia’s committment to music, you need another glass of wine.

Depending on your mood, you can take in just about any genre of music at almost any winery, on any given weekend. From a capella harmonies to urban folk to classic covers, you’ll find free live music in the courtyard every weekend at Brotherhood Winery. At Bashakill Vineyards you’ll hear performances by some of the region’s favorite rockers every Saturday night. Warwick Valley Winery also rocks with a series of events like the Watkins Glen Revisited Festival, and with musical tributes to some of their favorite icons, including Bob Dylan and The Grateful Dead. They also host “Black and Blues Weekends,” featuring well-known “Saturday Blues” bands such as the Midnight Street Shakers and Chris (“Prince of Blues”) Beard. On “Black Sunday,” performers such as Tim O’Donohue and The Whiskey Sinners, pay homage to the life and music of Johnny Cash.

Robibero Winery likes to mix it up most every weekend with a range of musical styles by guest performers. They feature a Jazz Fest, a Sangria Fest, and, of course, “Winestock – 1 Day of Peace, Music & Wine,” where you can relive the experience

PHOTOS: (left column) Rick Larrimore, the “ultimate” Rod Stewart tribute at Palaia Vineyards; (right column, top) Bud & Budd ~ The Kind Buds at Warwick Valley Winery’s Grateful Dead Fest; (bottom) Jammin’ at Robibero Family Winery’s annual Winestock festival.

A SIGN OF THE TIMES Posters announcing some of the musical tributes at Hudson Valley wineries (from top to bottom): Three days of live music at Warwick Valley Winery & Distillery’s annual Bob Dylan Tribute; Reliving the experience of Woodstock at Robibero Family Winery’s Winestock event; the annual Neil Young Tribute Festival at Palaia Vineyards which raises money for cancer research.


of Woodstock with some of the region’s most notable cover bands.

If you’re in the mood for blues or jazz, the Hudson Valley wineries offer that, too. In addition to free music in the courtyard every Saturday and Sunday, Applewood Winery features a “BBQ & Blues Experience” in August. At Millbrook Vineyards, their “Jazz at the Vineyard Grille” series runs all summer long, capping off with a “Once in a Blue Moon Blues Concert & BBQ,” featuring the region’s well-known Blue In Green Jazz Quartet. Brookview Station Winery hosts “Wine, Women & Song” wine and cheese parties and books multiple bands for their annual “Apple Festival” each Fall. Or plan a trip to Benmarl Winery or Hudson-Chatham Winery during their Sangria Fests, and you will enjoy authentic Flamenco guitar music complete with singing, dancing, and palmas (handclaps). Live music resounds throughout the winery and vineyards during Benmarl’s Annual Harvest and Grape Stomping Festivals, too. And the list goes on . . . The Musicians Hard-rocking bandleaders, musical groups, touring musicians, solo artists and acoustic folk troubadours – the region has no shortage of talented, hardworking musicians that play at the wineries. You might even catch some of the same Hudson Valley favorites playing at different winery events – musicians like Marc Von Em, Al Westphal, Sarah Morr, and Jack Higgins of Mud Belly, and groups like The Brian Dougherty Band and Michael Patrick’s Ring of Fire Band, are among the many. One such Hudson Valley favorite son is Matt Turk. He has toured the world and PHOTOS: (top) Performers at Millbrook Vineyard’s “Jazz at the Vineyard Grille” series; (bottom) Musician Matt Turk, a regular at Hudson Valley winery music festivals.

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HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

shared the stage with Bob Dylan, Pete Seeger, Norah Jones, The Dave Matthews Band, and The Doobie Brothers, to name a few. Asked about his connection to wine and why he likes to perform at Hudson Valley wineries, Turk replied: “Wine and music are two of the finest and most necessary ingredients in a good life. They are an ultimate elixir for conversation, the enjoyment of food, friendship, and love. They both access essential components of the human spirit that are sometimes hidden.” The wineries, he says, “are gathering places. . . Folks come from near and far to walk beautiful grounds and enjoy the serenity of where wine is made. I enjoy the atmosphere – they are down-to-earth places, filled with energy .. . a fabulous environment for live music.” We agree.

A MELODIOUS MATCH The melding of the two worlds constitutes a new form of entertainment. The new cultural landscape is created from a blend of the things we love. And the pairing of

wine and music is one example of a modern touchstone. This current trend is engaging precisely because together they encompass all the elements that these audiences and customers prize: products that speak to them, that touch their souls, their emotions, and affect their moods; they speak to their desire to do good, to be environmentally aware, and conservation conscious; they bestow sharing, friendship, and happiness; and they provide a source of stylish entertainment that seems new and fresh and timely. Do songs inspire wine drinking? Check. Do roaring guitar licks make you want to pour a glass of Cabernet? Check. Do you reach for a mellow Merlot when you’re listening to Al Green or Van Morrison? Does some Joni Mitchell call for a contemplative Baco Noir? Check and check. Just witness the various musical genres that are performed at winery events throughout the Hudson Valley wineries – all ages enjoy their favorite music. And all enjoy their favorite Hudson Valley wine.

THE SCIENCE OF HARMONY & TASTE Not convinced yet? According to a major study, there is also scientific evidence that it makes sense to relate wine to music. In fact, scientists confirm that the various smells associated with wine evoke strikingly similar musical associations in test subjects. Understanding the working of the thalamus in the midbrain and the nature of stimuli, we can identify something as “harmonious”: Which music goes with which wine? By learning to be as sensitive to the mood of a wine as to the mood of a piece of music, we can tell happy music from sad, angry, or romantic, leading scientists to suggest that playing a certain type of music can also enhance the way wine tastes. One of California’s most widely respected winemakers, Clark Smith, also a wine writer, consultant and educator, has, in recent years become increasingly interested in the study of the relationship of wine and music cognition, and believes wine preferences can be strongly influenced by music. “We associate different wine types with different moods, just as we do with music. When the wine and the music match, both improve. When they clash, it can be awful,” he says. When the wine and the music share the same mood, they complement each other, “. . . in particular, wines taste smoother, whereas when it’s a mismatch, they can taste harsh and astringent.” To further determine the impact that music has on how wine tastes, Professor Adrian North from the Heriot-Watt University in Edinburgh in a recent study on Wine & Song: The Effect of Background Music on the Taste of Wine, offered taste tests to 250 students who sampled a Cabernet Sauvignon or Chardonnay while listening to four types of music: Carmina Burana by Orff (powerful and heavy), Waltz of the Flowers from The Nutcracker by Tchaikovsky (subtle and refined), Just Can’t Get Enough by Nouvelle Vague (zingy and refreshing) and Slow Breakdown by Michael Brook (mellow and soft). The research is based on the theory of “cognitive priming,” which holds that certain styles of music stimulate certain parts of the brain. When wine is tasted, these areas are already active and have a corresponding effect on our perceptions of taste. And the results: Cabernet Sauvignon was most affected by “powerful and heavy” music and Chardonnay by “zingy and refreshing” sounds. Professor North deemed the results could lead retailers to put music recommendations on their wine bottles, “Wine manufacturers could recommend that while drinking a certain wine, you should listen to a certain sort of music.” In fact, the pairing of the right song with a specific wine has become a very popular aspect of the wine and music industry. Read “What the Science Says” about music to drink wine by on www.hvwinemag.com


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Keeping it Currant As a dessert wine or liqueur, Hudson Valley Cassis is as fresh as ever J. Stephen Casscles New York State was once the leading commercial producer of currants in the U.S., which could be found in everything from jams and preserves to syrup and Cassis wine and liqueurs. While production of currants in New York declined significantly in the twentieth century, currants and cassis are making a resurgence to gain their rightful prominent place in Hudson Valley culture.

urrants, in red, white and black varieties, are native to central and northern European countries. These very winter-hardy plants eventually made their way into family gardens in France, England, Germany and Austria, so that by the midsixteenth century, the red and white varieties were being imported from Europe to the colonies in New York and the New England for cultivation.

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Officially, currants are a fruit-bearing shrub, classified as part of the genus of plants known as Ribes. This family includes red and white currants (Ribes rubrum, R. sativum, and R. petraeum), and black currants (Ribes nigrum), all of which were cultivated in northern Europe. Red and white currants grow on strands or clusters that range from two to five inches long, while black currants grow on much shorter stemmed clusters of about three to five berries. The currant berry is about the size of a small-to-medium sized blueberry. Currants ripen at a time of year when other fruits are scarce – they bud in the early spring and their crop is often harvested right after the Fourth of July. Just like grapes and fruit trees, currants must be pruned early before budding so that they can bear a suitable crop. Currants are by nature northern plants and they thrive in cooler climates, which is why they are extensively grown in northern and central Europe, in countries such as Germany, Poland and Russia. In North America, they grow well in New York, New England, Michigan, and Canada. The deciduous bushes can reach up to five feet tall and are just as wide, and prefer heavy, damp, rich clay to loam soils that retain moisture; they like morning sun and afternoon part-shade so that their leaves do not scorch. In the U.S., currants – red, white and black – have traditionally been used to make jams, jellies, preserves, pies, tarts, sauces to accompany meats, and yes, alcoholic beverages such as cassis, liqueurs, and wines (more on

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HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

that to come). In early America currants were deemed to have medicinal properties (they are, in fact, high in vitamin C and other antioxidants), so they were also used in home remedies and elixirs of all sorts. Currants in the Hudson Valley In the early part of the twentieth century, according to agricultural census information, New York State ranked first in the production of red currants, with a good percentage being grown in the Hudson Valley. Approximately 2,671 acres of red and white currants were grown in New York in 1919, however, due to a destructive blight that affected currants from 1891 to 1913, the acreage gradually declined to 1,306 acres in 1929, 540 acres in 1954, and only 393 acres in 1959. After that, red and white currants became a “specialty crop” that was only grown in Chautauqua County, and the fruit growing areas of the Hudson Valley. Historically, because of their growth habit and tolerance of shade, a common practice was to grow currant bushes under grape vines within the vineyard, or under fruit trees which were often planted at the end of every other vineyard row. Red and white currants were commercially popular in the Hudson Valley and were most often used together, since jams and preserves made solely with white currants were thought to be unappealing in appearance.


At that time, very few black currants were commercially grown here due in part to their strong, tart flavor. To make matters worse, under a Federal law enacted in 1911 black currants were banned from being cultivated at all in the U.S. The reason for these laws was the misguided belief that the presence of black currant bushes near white pine trees caused the uncontrolled spread of the fungal disease known as white pine blister rust. The American lumber industry successfully pushed for a ban on the cultivation of black currants, small as it was, to protect this source of pine lumber. In 1966, however, the black currant ban was lifted by the Federal government and relegated to State control, as it was finally determined that there was little or no relationship of black currants to the life cycle of white pine blister rust. (In fact, at my farm in Athens, New York, I grow black currants and they are very close to a large stand of very healthy and tall white pine trees!) While the Federal ban was lifted in 1966, New York State continued its ban on the cultivation of black currants until 2003. That year, New York State Senator William J. Larkin, Jr. (R-C) of Cornwall-on-Hudson, introduced a bill that became law which lifted the ban on the cultivation of black currants in fruiting districts, or potential fruiting districts, such as those that exist in the Hudson Valley. This bill was part of a legislative program of bills initiated by the NYS Senate Task Force for Hudson Valley Fruit Growers, chaired by Senator Larkin (whose Counsel was yours truly). The bill was signed into law on August 5, 2003, by Governor George E. Pataki of nearby Garrison, whose family, incidentally, were fruit and currant growers from Peekskill. In the past decade there has been renewed local interest in fruit cultivation with an increasing number of small fruit farms being established in the Hudson Valley. Consequently, with the ban lifted, currant cultivation is also on the rise: In 2002, there were 15 farms that grew currants in New York State; in 2007, this number increased to 67 farms, with 21 of these farms being located in the Hudson Valley region.

PHOTO: Courtesy of Hudson-Chatham Winery

Growers are now beginning to evaluate the dozens of red and black currant varieties that exist, to determine which ones will produce the best quality fruit in the Hudson Valley. With varietal names like Cherry, Wilder, Red Dutch, Champion, Perfection, Prince of Wales and even White Grape, comparisons to the Hudson Valley’s grape culture are inevitable.

Currants vs. Corinthes It should be pointed out that our locally grown, American red and black currants (Ribes species) are not at all related to the popular dried black fruit found at the grocery store. Those “currants,” often used in baking, are known as the “Zante currant,” and are in reality a small, seedless, berried grape variety (botanically belonging to the Vitis vinifera grape family), and are usually dried to make raisins. Although labeled as “currants,” the “Zante currant” takes its first name from the Greek island of “Zante,” where these raisins are produced. It was the British, sometime in the late 1500s or early 1600s, who dubbed these dried Greek grapes “currants” – a reference to the Greek port of Corinth, where supplies of this fruit shipped out to western Europe, and a corruption of their French name “raisin de Corinthe,” or Corinthian grape. Early English texts alternatively called this dried grape by several names: reysonys of Corawnce, Corinthes, corans, currantes, currans, and bastard corinthes. The name “currant” was eventually applied to this species of Ribes because of its resemblance to the “grape of Corinth.” This is an exciting time for currants growers in the Valley because the market for this fruit is expanding. Currants’ high levels of vitamins A and C, anthocyanins (flavonoids), and total phenolics have proven to possess a high antioxidant quality, so they are once again gaining popularity as medicinal creams, teas and syrups. And here in the Hudson Valley, cultivating black currants for the production of cassis and other alcoholic, and nonalcoholic, beverages is on the rise. Turning Currants into Wine Fresh black currants have a strong and unusual flavor. They are not pleasant to the taste – they are bitter, herbaceous like juniper berries, dry, acidic, and with enough tannin to practically rip the enamel off your teeth. However, when made into a still wine, liqueur or cordial, they can have a big, musky yet velvety feel with fruit flavors of cooked prunes or mulberries, chocolate, and plums. Black currant liqueur, which can be made either semi-dry or sweet, is intense and thick with a very dark purple color. It has often been likened to drinking a jelly preserve – a thick, rich taste with deep jammy berry notes. The level of sweetness helps to determine its viscosity, balance, and how it is to be consumed. In the end, it is the balancing of the tart and the sweet, with its fruity taste, that produces its silkiness. Cassis is the specialty liqueur produced from black currants that originated in the French region of Burgundy where it is officially known as Crème de Cassis. Most Americans are familiar with cassis as a dessert cordial, though more often than not they are introduced to Cassis when mixed in a cocktail. Cassis can be used to make a simple Kir when added to a dry white wine; a Kir Royale is made by mixing cassis with Champagne (when mixed with a white sparkling wine, i.e., not from the Champagne continued on page 10 www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012

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THE MANY FACES OF CASSIS

continued from page 9

In the Hudson Valley, Cassis and Black Currant wines are artisanally crafted in many different styles, depending on the winemaker or distiller. Using locallygrown currants that naturally thrive here, its no wonder the Hudson Valley is quickly becoming the country’s number one producer in just a few short years. Enjoy the expression of these regional favorites.

region, it is called a Kir Pétillant) – so-named in honor of Félix Kir, mayor of Dijon in Burgundy, who popularized the cocktail in post-War France. When added to a red Burgundy or Beaujolais-style wine the result is the French drink known as a Cardinal (after their red robes) or Communard (i.e., the communist “Red Menace”). In most cases, the proportion of cassis to wine is often up to the taste and preference of the drinker. Cassis is rapidly becoming something of a specialty in the Hudson Valley too, and is now being produced by an increasing number of wineries and distilleries, including Adair Vineyards, Brookview Station Winery, Clinton Vineyards, Glorie Farm Winery, Hudson-Chatham Winery, Tousey Winery, Tuthilltown Spirits Distillery and Warwick Valley Winery & Distillery. Black currant wines and liqueurs are produced in many different ways and every cassis or black currant wine maker approaches the process differently. The level of alcohol and expression of fruit changes from maker to maker. While everyone begins the process with fresh, local black currants, there are plenty of variations. For example, Tousey uses four different varieties of currants in their Créme de Cassis, Glorie Farm Winery uses at least two in their Black Currant Wine; Hudson-Chatham Winery macerates the fruit for over two-and-a-half months to make their Paperbirch Cassis Dessert Wine; and Tuthilltown Spirits Distillery macerates the fruit in whiskey-cured American Oak barrels with a small portion of the black currant bush’s leaves. This gives their Cassis Liqueur a more tannic structure (think dry leaves or black tea). Making cassis is an arduous task that requires patience, and lots of currants, as they do not produce much juice even after water is added to hydrate them. In fact, the amount of currants needed to make just a 375ml halfbottle of liqueur is about three times as much as what is needed to make one 750ml bottle of wine from grapes. The maker has the additional challenge of balancing tartness with sugar to achieve the appropriately high alcohol level. This requires that sugar be added slowly and painstakingly to the fermenting fruit over the course of several months. Instead of sugar, some cassis makers use honey to balance out the acidity of the tart fruit, as with Warwick Valley’s American Fruits’ Black Currant Cordial. Tousey Winery also take this approach, using honey from their own bees. The process gets even more diverse with black currant cordials and liqueurs. Both Tuthilltown and Warwick add the fresh, macerated fruit directly to a distilled spirit or brandy base to infuse the flavor into the alcohol. After initial fermentation, Brookview Station Winery adds a fruit-based alcohol to the must to produce their Conductor’s Black Currant Cassis. These methods can create a product that is naturally a bit higher in alcohol, ranging from 18% to 22%.

THE CONDUCTOR’S CASSIS Brookview Station Winery

BLACK CURRANT WINE Glorie Farm Winery

CASSIS DESSERT WINE Hudson-Chatham Winery

CRÉME DE CASSIS Tousey Winery

CASSIS LIQUEUR Tuthilltown Spirits Distillery

BLACK CURRANT CORDIAL Warwick Valley Winery & Distillery

In all versions of Hudson Valley Cassis, the big, sweettart taste of fresh black currant is evident, whether made as a wine, liqueur, or in a true crème de cassis-style – thick and sweet like its French counterpart. Cassis should be treated like a port or brandy; expect the profile to change the longer the bottle is opened.

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HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012


Wine-ing a Whey [ T I P S FO R LO CA L W I N E A N D C H E E S E PA I R I N G S ]

SAVORY STARTER FOR ENTERTAINING; AN AUSTRIAN INSPIRATION By Wendy Crispell,

CSW, WSET

ast week a friend and I literally stumbled upon a wonderful little Germanic wine garden called Berlyn after catching a movie at BAM Rose Cinema in Brooklyn. Relaxing on the back porch filled with strange gnomes, animal figurines and pillows fashioned into sausage shapes, I perused the wine and snack menu happy to see one of my favorites, Liptauer cheese, as a starter. The wine choices where equally interesting. I immediately ordered a glass of Hugel Gentil, a field blend native to Alsace, while I decided on dishes for the rest of our Germanic adventure. Gentil is an ancient Alsace tradition that produces wines from a blend of some of the finest grapes grown, harvested and vinified together. Hugel’s version allies the suave, spicy flavor of Gewurztraminer, the body of Pinot Gris, the finesse of Riesling, the grapiness of Muscat and the refreshing character of Sylvaner. It was a real treat and was sure to pair well with the small feast we had ordered.

L

When our appetizers arrived I found myself gobbling down the Liptauer cheese and leaving the other delicacies such as smoked trout and potato pancakes for my friend to enjoy. Almost ashamed of my gluttony I found myself wondering, why don’t I make this more often at home? It’s so easy to prepare – and delicious! Liptauer cheese spread, an AustroHungarian favorite and traditionally

made with a soft sheep cheese has just about as many variations as there are types of other soft cheeses used in recipes I’ve found scattered across the internet. The name is derived from the German name Liptau for the region of Liptov (Hungarian: Liptó) in northern Slovakia, a former county in the Austro-Hungarian Empire. It is a part of the regional cuisine of Slovakia (as Šmirkás, a garbled form of the German Schmierkäse for cheese spread) and Hungary (as Liptói túró). The first time I was served Liptauer was on a cool autumn night while visiting a Heuriger, a tradition in Austrian wine culture. I remember settling in for a memorable experience of food and

LIPTAuER  CHEESE  SPREAD Serves 6-8 8 ounces goat cheese (any fresh Hudson Valley chevre or farmer’s cheese will work) 4 oz. unsalted butter 2 teaspoons paprika – 1 sweet,1 hot Pinch cayenne pepper or to taste 2 tablespoon Dijon mustard

drink unique to the outskirts of Vienna with a group of young Austrian winemakers. Eager to share their wines and knowledge we paired their field blends called Gemischter Satz, interesting combinations of several grapes native to Austria, with cheeses, sausage and cold meats. What actually is a Heuriger? The word Heuriger translates into both “new wine” (heuer meaning “this year”), continued on page 69

PAIRING LIPTAUER WITH LOCAL WINE If served with: Try: From: or Try: From:

Try this version of Liptauer I created and let me know how you like it. It can be served stuffed into small tomatoes, with carrot sticks or slathered on a crusty loaf. Why not pick up a few bottles of local wine and make this easy, tasty starter to spread on a crisp fall apple? Try it, it’s great!

Sausage and apples Traminette Applewood Winery Palaia Vineyards

Hearty brown bread Gamay Whitecliff Vineyard

Off-dry Riesling Brotherhood Winery Robibero Winery Tousey Winery

Baco Noir Benmarl Winery Hudson-Chatham Winery

2 big pinches of salt, or to taste 2 pinches white pepper, or to taste 1-1/2 teaspoons caraway seeds, toasted & crushed 2 tablespoons chopped scallion 1 tablespoon chopped kosher dill pickles Thin crostini or crackers 1 bunch of chopped chives, to serve Bring the cheese and butter to room temperature, then cream the goat cheese in a large bowl by hand or with a hand blender. Add the butter and incorporate well. Add the paprika, mustard, cayenne, white pepper and salt, and cream them together some more. Now, by hand, beat in the caraway seeds, scallion, and pickles. Taste and adjust until everything is to your liking. Best to make a few hours ahead and chill for flavors to meld. Enjoy!

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Along the road you’ll see fall foliage at its finest, and at the wineries an equally colorful palette of wines will be waiting – ruby-rich reds, crisp autumn whites, and all shades in between. This season, the wineries of the Hudson Valley are launching a new campaign – “Fall in Love with Hudson Valley Wine.” You’ll find special tastings, events, and promotions throughout the region, at restaurants, and at local wine shops too. You can pick up a special mixed case of your favorite wines, many of which have been reviewed in Wine Spectator, Wine Enthusiast, Snooth, The New York Times, and the Wall Street Journal. Check Hudson Valley Wine Country’s revamped website (www.hudsonvalleywinecountry.org) for more details and to help plan your trip. A visit to the Hudson Valley isn’t complete, though, unless you stop in to one of the region’s distilleries to sample what’s been cooking in their shiny stills, and add a visit to one of the growing number of breweries along the route. After all, ‘tis the season to try their seasonal brews, like pumpkin ale or wheat beer. And don’t miss out on all the new hard ciders – like wine, they come in many different varieties and styles, each with its own apple terroir and flavor profile.

ULSTER

THE HUDSON VALLEY

T

his September and October, when you’re enjoying the grandeur of the Hudson Valley fall, be sure to stop in to visit your local winery. There’s nothing more enjoyable than roaming along the Valley’s back roads, admiring the setting, and stopping off to sample some artisanal wines.

DUTCHESS

OF THE HUDSON VALLEY

GREENE

With a burgeoning number of Hudson Valley producers currently making black currant cassis, liqueur, and wine, there are plenty of samples to be had. Experiment with them as an aperitif, on the rocks or in a cocktail, drizzled over fruit salad or ice cream, or sipped as a dessert cordial. I welcome you to try them now, to understand the different styles and what makes this Hudson Valley specialty so unique. Be there for the beginning of what could very well be a cassis explosion.

WINERIES & DISTILLERIES

COLUMBIA

As an aside, it is interesting to note that no red currant wine or cassis is being made commercially in the Hudson Valley, despite its earlier popularity. Having personally made red currant cassis for over twenty years, I look forward to the time when it will be as viable as the black currant version. Black currant cassis is dark and velvety; red currant cassis has bright berry flavors of cranberries and can taste like a good cherry wine, with a similar acid profile. While not as dark and syrupy as black currant cassis, red currant cassis is a full-bodied, medium redhued liqueur that also has tremendous depth and presence. Like its dark cousin, red currant cassis mixes well as a Kir on a warm summer’s night. Production of both should be encouraged here in the Hudson Valley. But I digress...

RENSSELAER

continued from page 10

It’s all part of the experience of visiting Hudson Valley wine country, and this season we know you’re gonna “Fall in Love.”

SULLIVAN

INDEX BY COUNTY

Sullivan BashaKill Vineyards .................22

Robibero Winery......................36 Stoutridge Vineyard .................38 Whitecliff Vineyard ...................40

Dutchess Millbrook Vineyards & Winery ..42

ORANGE

Orange Applewood Winery ..................14 Brotherhood Winery ................16 Palaia Vineyards ......................18 Warwick Valley Winery & Distillery ...................................20

Columbia Hudson-Chatham Winery ........44 Tousey Winery ........................46

Ulster Adair Vineyards........................24 Baldwin Vineyards ...................26

KEY  TO  SYMBOLS:

Dutchess Wine Trail

Hudson Berkshire Beverage Trail

Brookview Station Winery .......48

Benmarl Winery .......................28

Distilleries

Brimstone Hill Vineyard ...........30

Catskill Distilling Company......50

Cereghino Smith......................32

Harvest Spirits .........................52

Glorie Farm Winery .................34

Tuthilltown Spirits Distillery......54 www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012

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WESTCHESTER

Shawangunk Wine Trail

Rensselaer


APPLEWOOD WINERY

ABOUT US

Established 1994

TO MAKE OUR WINES we tie vines to trellises, we anxiously await the arrival of Spring, pull hoses with our hands, lift bins of grapes, gently fill bottles and cheerfully bring our wine to you. Join us at Applewood Winery, in the heart of the historic Hudson Valley! Come discover the oldest working farm in Orange County and one of the oldest west of the Hudson River. The Hull family and their friends began planting apple and peach trees in former pastures in 1949. In 1994 VA R I E TA L S the winery was created and vineyards planted. Remarkably, the vistas from the vineyards today have changed little SEYVAL/CHARDONNAY from the time before George Washington was born. When we first started making wine we had two goals in mind: Making some really great quality wines and having as much fun as possible doing so. We want to share our passion for wine with you and make it an easy, enjoyable experience for you, your friends and your family. Wineries in the Hudson Valley invite you to slow down. Take time to enjoy wine, and yourself. When you visit Applewood you get to taste wine right where it comes from. You’ll find we champion the underdogs of the wine world. Come look beyond the culture of Merlot as synonymous with red and Chardonnay with white, reducing wine to a franchise with no uniqueness or sense of place. You’ll find plenty of true connoisseurs in the tasting room of Applewood. People who know what they like and don’t need some wine critic’s review to justify it. The wine is not expensive or French, and you don’t need to know an insider to get it, which may disappoint some folks… We talk about food constantly in our tasting room, almost as much as we talk about our wines. It’s difficult to mention one without the other. Instead of “just talk” we offer a universe of wine experiences, food pairing weekends, tasting classes, a Summer Café and of course you can just hang out and enjoy the wine and listen to live music in the courtyard.

SEYVAL/CHARDONNAY RESERVE RIESLING

SUMMER FIELDS WAWAYANDA WHITE NAKED FLOCK HARD CIDER (Original, Draft, Pumpkin)

VIDAL APPLE BLOSSOM BLUSH TRAMINETTE HARVEST TIME CABERNET FRANC OBR (OAK BARREL RESERVE) MERLOT I N T E R N AT I O N A L R E D BLUEBERRY BLACKBERRY

It gives all of us at Applewood Winery great pleasure to RUBY’S KISS share with you our harvest of wine. Newcomers to the world of wine learn in a comfortable setting and even the most jaded imbiber will find a rich and complex tasting experience.

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HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

MEET THE WINEMAKERS Jonathan and Michele Hull are the owners of Applewood Winery. Jonathan grew up on the farm and moved to New York City to attend NYU. When he met Michele, his idea of a gourmet meal was takeout. Michele worked at the famous Windows on The World restaurant and was wise in the ways of food and wine. She decided to polish this diamond in the rough and he was a willing pupil. Living in New York City at the time was a great learning experience but Jonathan yearned to return to his agricultural roots. With his newfound love of wine to inspire him, one day Jonathan hit on the idea of opening a winery on the family farm. And like Eva Gabor, Michele was swept away to the country and the vision became a bucolic reality. The prodigal son returned home and opened the winery with Michele’s gracious hand guiding the tasting room. She’s been welcoming guests to our tasting room for 15 years now. “My goal is to make some great wines that are unique to New York and the Hudson Valley that express true life and character,” Jonathan says, “If that doesn’t work, I’ll just hang out under a tree and slurp some Riesling.”


IN THE SPOTLIGHT N A K E D F LO C K H A R D C I D E R

The Naked Flock is introducing people to a true Hudson Valley hard cider. “Our cider is for people who crave unique flavor and are on the hunt for quality,” says cider maker Jonathan Hull. Naked Flock Hard Cider is available in three styles, Original, Draft, and Pumpkin, a seasonal cider fermented with locally grown pumpkins. Naked Flock Hard Cider isn’t made from apple juice concentrate but from fresh pressed Hudson Valley apples. “You get a smoother cleaner, crisper taste,” says Hull.

THE ESSENTIALS

Most Americans have never tasted a true hard apple cider. “With the demand for gluten-free diets and local sustainable products, hard cider has finally come into its own.” Says the cider maker, “We don’t add water or grape spirits, flavorings or colorants and that’s why you get a big “apple” nose when you open it. This also helps to give Naked Flock a look and feel that sets it apart from the competition.”

EVENTS (Check website for more information,

ADDRESS 82 Four Corners Road Warwick, NY 10990

Free Music in the Courtyard – every Sat & Sun 2–5pm Sept–Oct Pick Your Own Apples

to book reservations and purchase tickets. All events are rain or shine.)

Call for availability of different varieties 

PHONE 845-988-9292

Nov 3–4 New York Hard Cider Experience

EMAIL info@applewoodwinery.com

Featuring artisanal hard ciders and apple wines created just for this event along with food pairings by our chef. Live music, logo wine glass and free wine tasting included.

WEBSITE www.applewoodwinery.com

GETTING HERE

OPEN March–Dec: Fri–Sun, 11am–5pm TASTING FEES $5 per person ACREAGE 10 acres PRODUCTION 4,000 cases OWNERS Jonathan and Michele Hull

FROM NEW YORK CITY AND NEW JERSEY: Take the New York State Thruway (I-87) North to Exit 16 Harriman (Woodbury Commons), then Rt. 17 West to Exit 127 greycourt Rd. Follow signs to Sugar Loaf then Warwick, Cty. Rt. 13. Three miles past Sugar Loaf, turn right on Four Corners Road, go 1 mile. Travel time 1 hour from george Washington Bridge. FROM ALBANY, KINGSTON, NEWBURGH & CONNECTICUT: Take the New York State Thruway (I-87)  South to Exit 16 Harriman (Woodbury Commons). Then same as above.

WINEMAKER Jonathan Hull

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ORANGE

Naked Flock’s flavor profile may be more remarkable for what it’s not then what it is; unlike the majority of widely available cider beverages, this cider is not cloying, overly sweet or artificially colored. Its restrained and almost floral/apple nose could easily substitute gastronomically for champagne.

VINEYARD APPLEWOOD WINERY


BROTHERHOOD, AMERICA’S OLDEST WINERY

ABOUT US

Established 1839

HERE AT BROTHERHOOD, AMERICA’S OLDEST WINERY, we celebrated the inauguration of Grand Monarque Hall in November 2011. Our Board of Directors, along with our close partners, associates, local government officials, staff and friends were there to celebrate this milestone with us. Grand Monarque Hall is what we consider the “crown jewel” of our property and is becoming one of the most sought-after event spaces in the Hudson Valley. The Emerson Family, the second family to take ownership of Brotherhood Winery, focused on expansion in several areas of our property. The winemaking area was moved from the brick building (which now serves as Vinum Café) into Grand Monarque Hall as it was directly above the long vault where all of Brotherhood’s wines were being barrel-aged. There was a pulley system and shaft in the cellars that made transporting barrels of wine into the processing area more efficient. In 1921, the Farrell family took ownership of Brotherhood and began to grow the business from a winemaking facility into a tourist destination. The winemaking area was moved, once again, into a new plant, with more “modern” equipment, including an automated bottling line and bigger stainless steel tanks for storage. Grand Monarque Hall was then converted into an event space, which hosted VA R I E TA L S many memorable parties. Tragically, in January of 1999, an electrical fire broke out in Grand Monarque Hall, destroying it and the surrounding buildings. The fire burned for days. Thankfully, the iconic stone walls proved to be structurally sound, so when our new Board of Directors took over in 2005, the plans began to restore this very special part of our property. Grand Monarque Hall with its adjacent cobblestone patio now consists of over 8,000 square feet of event space. Brotherhood has launched an aggressive monthly promotion for our newsletter subscribers. We will feature select wines each month and offer deep discounts for online purchases as well as special discounts in the Tasting Room. You must receive our newsletter to participate in these savings. Subscribers will also receive recipes, food and wine pairing suggestions and often have access to special event tickets before events are announced to the general public. If you haven’t received our newsletter yet, go to www.brotherhoodwinery.net/contact.html to sign up!

BLANC DE BLANCS SPARKLING WINE

GRAND MONARQUE (Limited Release)

NY PREMIUM SELECTIONS PINOT NOIR CABERNET SAUVIGNON MERLOT RIESLING DRY RIESLING CHARDONNAY

Our tours and tastings run full schedule April through RUBY PORT December. Our “Historical Tour” is offered several times daily, where visitors get a glimpse into Brotherhood’s history, all in our famous, hand-excavated underground cellars. The tour isn’t complete without experiencing one of three tasting “flights” of award-winning wines. We have seasonal wine specials and one of the largest winery gift shops in the area, offering Brotherhood souvenirs, wine accessories, local creations and unique imported items. In addition to producing some of the oldest and finest wines and champagnes in America, Brotherhood continues to create and bring back to life some of its grand and legendary parties and events. Our Courtyard Wine Garden features live music every weekend from Memorial Day through Labor Day, and then Grape Stomping every weekend from Labor Day into October. Check our website for more information on some of the most exciting events in the entire Hudson Valley! Visit www.brotherhoodwinery.net today!

PHOTOS: Tomas Donoso

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HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

MEET THE WINEMAKERS The winemaking team at Brotherhood is led by Winemaster Cesar Baeza. Cesar began his career with Master’s Degrees as an Agricultural Engineer, as well as in Viticulture and Enology and also in Sensory Analysis. His experience includes working in many of the winemaking regions in the world, including: California, France, Chile, Spain, the Soviet Union and New York State. Cesar oversees all the aspects of viticulture, product development and winemaking at Brotherhood Winery. Mark Daigle has the role of Production Manager, expert machinist and “fixer of all things.” When he isn’t running both bottling lines like well-oiled machines, Mark can often be found welding, grinding, repairing and, of course, consulting with Cesar and Bob about the different blends Brotherhood produces. Mark’s extensive background includes working in the vineyards of Chappellet in Napa Valley, Maison Bertrand Novack in Champagne, France and in the cellars at Chanson Père et Fils in Beaune, France. He is an essential part of the winemaking team because of his dedication, unique talents and over 30 years of experience at Brotherhood. Working directly with Mark and Cesar is Winemaker Bob Barrow. Bob graduated from Virginia Tech with a BS in Biology and a Chemistry Minor in 1998. He worked in both the vineyard and the winery at Williamsburg Winery in Virginia before starting at Brotherhood in 1999. A native of Dutchess County, Bob spends his time in the cellars and lab creating Brotherhood’s blends. In the fall, he can be found out on the crush pad with Mark pressing the tons of grapes that Brotherhood processes every year.


IN THE SPOTLIGHT D RY R I E S L I N G

This surprisingly dry, white wine offers bright aromas of fresh lime, tropical fruit and has a light mineral quality. Very crisp, with the mouthwatering taste of Granny Smith apples, it is well-balanced with a lingering finish.

P I N OT N O I R

This wine is light brick red in color, has a nose of fresh berries and plums with a hint of violets. It also displays bright fruit flavors of cranberry, cherry and black tea which create a light-tomedium bodied wine with a layered complexity staying true to form.

SW E E T LO L LY R E D

Introducing a wine that is meant for good times, casual get-togethers and girls’ night out! This wine was made for the fun, flirty and fruity flavors that know how to have a party on your palate! Serve this chilled with your favorite BBQ foods and best friends!

FROM NYS THRUWAY (I-87): Take  Exit 16 Harriman, go through toll plaza to  Rt. 17W to exit 130. Take 208 North to  Rt. 94 in Washingtonville. Make a right at the light on Rt. 94 and at the next light make a left on Brotherhood Plaza Drive. Brotherhood is on end of road on left.

VINEYARD BROTHERHOOD WINERY

ACREAGE 40 acres

ADDRESS 100 Brotherhood Plaza Drive Washingtonville, NY 10992

PRODUCTION 40,000 cases

PHONE 845-496-3661 FAX 845-496-8720 EMAIL contact@brotherhoodwinery.net WEBSITE www.brotherhoodwinery.net OPEN April–December:  Sun–Fri, 11am–5pm  Sat, 11am–6pm CLOSED Thanksgiving, Christmas Day, New Year’s Day

OWNER Chadwick, Castro and Baeza Families MANAGER Hernan Donoso, President WINEMAKER Cesar Baeza, Winemaster  Mark Daigle and Bob Barrow EVENTS (check website for more information) Live music weekends in the courtyard from 1–4pm Aug 25 Wine & Sangria Pig Roast

Festival. 1–6pm. $45/person+ tax

Sept–Oct Grapestomping weekends Oct 26 Halloween Costume Ball. 8pm

ORANGE

GETTING HERE

THE ESSENTIALS

TASTING FEES $7 with glass TOURS $10 tour, tasting and glass

www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012

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PALAIA VINEYARDS

ABOUT US

Established 2001

LOCATED IN A 200-YEAR-OLD BARN on land once owned by Aaron Burr, Palaia Vineyards is right in the middle of a richly historic area of the Hudson Valley. History is a main theme in all the operations here, from our land to our labels, which feature different photos of our relatives on each variety. We purchased the land in 2000 and began restoring the barn and converting it to a winery and tasting room. It has expanded since then to include the “Treehouse” and the “Sweet Clover Room” for music and private parties. The vines were planted in 2001 and we now have 10 acres of vineyard within view of the picnic grove and outside stage. We grow Cabernet Franc, Lemberger, Traminette, Seyval Blanc and Pinot Noir. In addition to what we grow here, we use New York State grapes to produce a variety of other award winning wines from dry to sweet.

WINES PINOT NOIR CABERNET FRANC Estate Grown

MERLOT U VA S E C C A Estate Grown

SERIOUS RED We believe that your tasting experience should be relaxed and a bit more “laid back” than a usual wine tasting. Our tasting room reflects this, and people are always commenting on the great “vibe” of the place. Tasting wine should be a fun experience, and if you are not in a good mood when you get here, it is our goal to improve it before you leave! As our tie-dye T-shirts say: “Palaia is where, the Woodstock Nation gets its Libation…Man.” There is a variety of light gourmet fare to eat as well, including fantastic Amish cheeses, cheese & antipasto platters, smooth and creamy Brie, our personal-sized thin-crust pizzas, and more.

Red Blend

LEMBERGER Estate Grown

IRENE White Blend

MEET THE WINEMAKERS Winemakers Joe, Jan and Joe Palaggi are also the owners of the winery. Joe learned how to make wine from his grandfather and went on to take classes and seminars to improve his skills. Jan and Joe (the younger) are the “wine finishing” experts and do the testing and refining of the wines in preparation for bottling. Joe will retire from his job someday and work full time at the winery, but for now it is up to Jan and young Joe to carry on with the day-to-day operations.

CHARDONNAY TRAMINETTE Estate Grown

JOYFUL PINK Rosé

With the live music every weekend, all year long, how could you not have a wonderful time here? Come watch a play or listen to music outside all summer, stomp grapes with us in September, pick grapes with us in October, and check the website for our events and music listing the rest of the year, or get on our e-mail list so you don’t miss a thing!

MEAD

PLUS

weekend, all year long,

PINK WINE SLUSHIES

how could you not have

Seasonal

HARD CIDER & SANGRIA

q

Al Westphal

On Tap

p

18

HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

With the live music every

Honey Wine

Lucy look-alike contest and grape stomp in September

a wonderful time here?


IN THE SPOTLIGHT IRENE

Named for the hurricane that flattened quite a bit of our vineyard last summer, this white blend is much nicer than its name implies. Smooth and semi-sweet with a peachy, sun-drenched taste you will love. What a great, refreshing, sit on the lawn and do nothing, kind of wine! Silver medal winner at the 2012 NY State Fair. J OY F U L P I N K

A Rosé that is light on the palate with soft strawberry overtones. Sweet and tart at the same time, this is one of our most popular wines. A percentage of all sales goes to the Young Survivor’s Coalition for Breast Cancer. 2009 International Medal winner, 2010 NY State Fair winner and 2011 Finger Lakes Wine & Food Classic winner. HARD CIDER

“Because not everyone drinks wine.” A fine blend of crisp local apples makes this a wonderfully refreshing drink. Not bottled, but available on tap year round. Something new for us, and we hope you enjoy it as much as we do.

THE ESSENTIALS

ADDRESS 20 Sweet Clover Road Highland Mills, NY 10930

G E N E R A L M A N A G E R Jan Palaggi O P E R A T I O N S M A N A G E R Craig Cowton (craig@palaiavineyards.com) WHOLESALE INQUIRIES winemaker@palaiavineyards.com

PHONE 845-928-5384

WINEMAKERS Joe (and son) Joe Palaggi

VINEYARD PALAIA vINEYARDS

FAX 845-928-7683 EMAIL winemaker@palaiavineyards.com WEBSITE www.palaiavineyards.com OPEN Jan 1–Memorial Day: Fri–Sun  Memorial Day–Dec 31: Open daily

GETTING HERE

TASTING FEES $5 for 6 wines TOURS By appointment only ACREAGE 32 total, 10 in vines

6:30–9:30pm, no cover.

Sept 1 Peach Project. The area’s best Allman

Brothers Tribute Band and BBq. 6:30–9:30pm. $5/person 

Sept 2 Neil Young Tribute and Pig Roast to benefit the Souza Scholarship Foundation. Bands all day and pig roast at 2pm. 12 –6pm. $10/person  Sept 22 The Great Lucy Look-alike Contest and Grape Stomp Festival. vendors of all kinds and BBq at 3pm. “u-guYS” from 6:30– 9:30pm; stomp and contest at 8pm, no cover. Sept 29 Pumpkin Chuckin’ Contest.

Spend the afternoon chuckin’ pumpkins!  BBq and “McMule” from 6:30–9:30, no cover.

PRODUCTION 2,000 cases OWNERS Joe and Jan Palaggi

www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012

19

ORANGE

FROM NYS THRUWAY (I-87): We are  very easy to find being only 5 miles from the Woodbury Commons Premium Outlets on Rt. 32 North. From the NYS Thruway take Exit 16 and then the first exit after the tolls for Rt. 32 North. We are exactly 5 miles on the left on Sweet Clover Road across from Woodbury Rd. If you are coming from the North, we are 4 miles from the light at Cornwall on Rt. 32. Look for the big white Winery sign at the top of the road and follow the signs around the gray barn to the parking lot.

CLOSED New Years Day, Easter,  Thanksgiving, Christmas Day

EVENTS For more on events and music check the website. Aug 25 ELVIS! Live, in person. BBq.


WARWICK VALLEY WINERY & DISTILLERY

ABOUT US

Established 1994

OUR STORY BEGINS IN THE ORCHARD. In 1989, we purchased the orchard and began to learn how to cultivate fruit. Local apple growers and extension agents taught us the basics and contributed to our early success. Our first product, in fact our entire business, started as a result of an abundant apple crop that lead us to experiment with hard cider. We were soon hooked and we received our farm winery and cider producer licenses in 1993. Our doors opened to the public in the Fall of 1994. In the early days, we had three wines and one cider, all of which were a bit unrefined. Our inexperience was as evident as our enthusiasm and we persevered to create higher quality wines and cider. Every vintage improved as we honed our skills and continued to learn the art and science of wine and cider making. Eventually, hard work paid off, leading us to the development of our acclaimed Doc’s Draft Hard Apple Cider. The success of our Doc’s Draft Hard cider is due to our insistence in using the finest fruit available.

VA R I E TA L S

The passion for creating wines and ciders soon evolved into an idea to begin distilling and to open the first distillery in the Hudson Valley since Prohibition. It was our belief that the fruits grown in the fertile Hudson Valley could be made into the highest quality fruit brandies and liqueurs. In 2001, we received a grant to develop New York’s first fruit micro-distillery. Using the same principle that had brought success to the wine and cider, we created a line of fruit brandies and liqueurs – American Fruits – made to capture and preserve the essence of fruit at its peak ripeness.

APPLES PEARS BLACK CURRANTS STRAWBERRIES CHERRIES CHARDONNAY RIESLING

Our post-and-beam tasting room provides visitors a unique environment to explore many offerings of wines, ciders, brandies and liqueurs. Renovated from an old apple packing house and overlooking a goose pond and the orchards, its bucolic setting is perfect for enjoying some great wine, music and food from our own Pané Café. A delicious bistro menu of fresh bread, pizzas, sandwiches and salads from Pané Café is served all weekend long.

CABERNET FRANC CABERNET SAUVIGNON

MEET THE WINEMAKER Jason A. Grizzanti is a renowned New York State winemaker, pomologist, viniculturalist, businessman and the innovator behind the Empire State’s first fruit micro-distillery. Jason is a principal and chief operating officer in charge of production at the Warwick Valley Winery in the Hudson Valley’s picturesque apple capital. Under Jason’s direction, the facility has garnered critical acclaim and awards for its fruit distillates including an 87 rating from the Beverage Tasting Institute for Grizzanti’s pear brandy; a Gold Medal at the NY Wine and Food Classic for his pear liqueur; coverage in Forbes Life magazine for the bourbon barrel-aged apple liqueur; a Gold Medal-winning ruby port; and 2007 ‘Best of Show’ recognition at the Hudson Valley Wine Competition for Jason’s American FruitsTM Sour Cherry Cordial.

PINOT GRIS PINOT NOIR

Warwick Valley Winery & Distillery is the perfect place for the perfect “Country Wedding” or any private party. For information email Randy at warwickwinery@gmail.com. Our mission since our inception has been to create fruit-based alcoholic beverages that are as unique as the fruits themselves. It’s the magical combination of wine, music and food that makes any visit to Warwick Valley Winery & Distillery so enjoyable.

Warwick Valley Winery & Distillery is the perfect place for the perfect “Country Wedding” or private party.

PHOTOS: Carol Bates/Bates Photography, Inc. (center, opposite page)

20

HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012


IN THE SPOTLIGHT In 2001, Warwick Valley Winery and Distillery became the Hudson Valley’s first licensed distillery since Prohibition. We are currently the state’s leading producer of fruit brandies (eau de vies) and all natural fruit liqueurs. The process begins by crushing whole, ripe fruit and then fermenting the mash in stainless steel tanks. The next step is to transfer the fermented mash into our copper pot still. Once there, the fermented fruit is gently heated by steam, as opposed to direct flame, to slowly boil off the alcohol without compromising the delicate fruit aromas. In 2009, Warwick Valley Winery and Distillery expanded the distillery to produce artisan gins and whiskeys.

THE ESSENTIALS VINEYARD WARWICK vALLEY WINERY &  DISTILLERY ADDRESS 114 Little York Road  Warwick, New York 10990 PHONE (845) 258-4858 FAX (845) 258-6055 EMAIL wvwinery@warwick.net WEBSITE www.wvwinery.com

FROM NYC & NJ: Take Rt.17 north into New York State toward Albany (I-87). get  off at exit 15A, Sloatsburg. Make a left off exit onto Rt. 17. Take Rt.17 north for 7 miles, then make a left onto Rt.17A. Stay  on Rt. 17A for approximately 17 miles into Warwick. At the intersection of Rt.17A and Rt. 94 make a left, onto Rt. 94. Proceed on Rt. 94 for a 1/4 of a mile, make a right onto Little York Rd. The winery is 1 mile down  on the right.

PRODUCTION 100,000 cases  OWNERS Joseph & Katherine grizzanti, Jason grizzanti, Jeremy Kidde DIRECTOR OF SALES Jeremy Kidde WINEMAKER Jason grizzanti

EVENTS Live music every weekend, 2pm–5pm Check website for date & time: August Johnny Cash Tribute

ORANGE

GETTING HERE

OPEN 11am–6pm, daily Bakery/Café open Friday–Sunday, 12pm–5pm

ACREAGE 60 acres

CLOSED New Years Day, Easter, Christmas  TASTING FEES $5 includes glass TOURS Call for info

www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012

21


BASHAKILL VINEYARDS

ABOUT US

Established 2005

BASHAKILL VINEYARDS is Sullivan County’s first licensed farm winery, which opened its tasting room doors in December 2007. BashaKill Vineyards is an eco-friendly vineyard that produces “certified naturally grown” grapes. The vineyard lies on a slight slope that flows down to the 2,000 acre BashaKill wetlands. This marsh provides an ideal microclimate to grow world-class organic grapes and the loose sandy soil offers excellent farming conditions. The land around the wetlands has a long history of farming dating back to the 1700s. It was initially inhabited by Native Americans, and by the mid-1700s European settlers migrated to the area. Old clay drainage pipes can still be found in some of the fields. The northern fields of the vineyard, planted in 2005, are home to both our Cayuga White vines as well as a red variety named Noiret. We use the Cayuga White grapes to produce our Estate White Tail varietal white wine. Our Estate White Tail is a Germanic style, balanced, semi-sweet wine with hints of melon, peach, apple, and an earthy overtone. In 2006, we took a chance planting a newlyreleased red hybrid out of Minnesota named Marquette, which has Pinot Noir as one of its grandparents. Marquette is known to be a hardy, disease-resistant grape while still producing a high-quality wine. In 2010, we harvested enough grapes for two barrels of our first Estate red wine. We blended our Marquette with our Noiret and called it Bald Eagle. This wine red wine has notes of raspberry, currants, with spice, oak and hints of black pepper, made from organically-grown grapes. We are now implementing several biodynamic practices in our vineyard. In 2009, we introduced chickens into our vineyard to help control pests and provide us with organic fertilizer, which is composted with our grape pressings and reapplied to our soil. In 2010, we introduced eight Babydoll Southdown sheep to manage our weeds and fertilize at the same time. We want to build an environment that will allow us to grow the most flavorful grapes, which will reflect in our wines. We also completed our wine cave, which gives us the perfect humidity and temperature to store our barrels. The wine cave is 40’ deep and 16’ wide with hand-crafted doors of forged steel and 4-inch-thick wood weighing over 500 pounds each! Another acre-and-ahalf has been cleared above the cave, which we will start prepping for more vines to expand our estate red wine production.

22

HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

WHITE WINES BARN OWL Gewürztraminer

ESTATE WHITE TAIL Cayuga White

WHITE TAIL Cayuga White

MEET THE WINEMAKER Seven years ago, Paul Deninno began to fulfill his dream of planting a vineyard and opening a winery on his property. He single-handedly constructed the vineyard trellis, using black locust posts, an alternative to using chemically-treated wood. He also laid all of the tile drainage and installed a drip-irrigation system which conserves water, fertilizer and energy consumption. He continues to plant, prune, and maintain the entire vineyard himself. This personal care and attention assures that the vineyard remains chemical-free and produces the highest quality grapes, which is reflected in his wines.

OSPREY Vignoles

WOOD DUCK Chardonnay

RED WINES BLACK BEAR Cabernet Franc

BLUE HERON Chancellor

COPPERHEAD Pinot Noir

COYOTE 80% Cab Sauvignon 20% Cab Franc

E S TAT E B A L D E A G L E Noiret, Marquette

Come visit the winery where you can sample BashaKill Vineyard’s award winning wines. You can also bring your own lunch and mingle with local residents and wine enthusiasts from afar. Paul also provides personal tours, showing where and how the wine is made, answers your questions, and ensures you have a visit that will make you want to return!


IN THE SPOTLIGHT B A R N OW L

Made from the noble Gewürztraminer grape, grown and hand-harvested on the east side of Seneca Lake in the Finger Lakes region of NY. A semi-dry, highly aromatic wine with spice and honey on the palate and nose. W H I T E TA I L

Made in the same style as our Estate wine, but with grapes from Keuka Lake, and is intended to be more of a dessert wine. OSPREY

One of our most popular whites, this Germanic-style, semi-sweet wine has flavors and aromas of honeysuckle, pineapple, and grapefruit. Enjoy with light pasta dishes and desserts. WO O D D U C K

Our first Chardonnay which is half aged in American oak and half in stainless steel, then blended together for a very smooth, dry white wine. It has a full body and a beautiful finish!

THE ESSENTIALS

2 0 1 0 B L AC K B E A R

Best in Show in the 2011 Hudson Valley Wine competition! Made from 100% Cabernet Franc grapes grown on Seneca Lake, aged for 10 months in medium toast American Oak barrels. Has notes of cherry, black currant, black pepper, and raspberry on the nose and palate. Pairs well with barbeque, steaks, and even poultry.

VINEYARD BASHAKILL vINEYARDS

PRODUCTION 500 cases

ADDRESS 1131 South Road Wurtsboro, NY 12790

OWNER/MANAGER Paul Deninno

2 0 1 0 C OYOT E

FAX 845-888-5858

2 0 1 0 B LU E H E R O N

Made from 100% Chancellor grapes grown on Keuka Lake. This bold wine has notes of cedar, anise, and spice, and is a great on a crisp autumn day. Pairs well with spicy foods. 2 0 1 0 E STAT E B A L D E AG L E

2010 Estate Bald Eagle is our first estate red wine made from a blend of our Noiret and Marquette organically-grown grapes. We only produced enough grapes for two barrels, but the wine is outstanding.

EMAIL paul@BashaKillvineyards.com WEBSITE www.BashaKillvineyards.com OPEN Memorial Day–Labor Day:  Sat & Sun, 12pm–6pm Winter: Sat, 12pm–5pm CLOSED Monday–Friday TASTING FEES $4 includes all available wines  and glass

WINEMAKER Paul Deninno EVENTS Live Music 2–6pm

SULLIVAN

Silver medal winner. A blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Cabernet Franc grapes, both grown on Seneca Lake. A dry red wine, aged for 10 months in American Oak, it has notes of tobacco, black currant, spice, and pepper on the nose and palate. Pairs well with most meat dishes, especially steak and lamb.

PHONE 845-888-5858

We have live music every day we are open throughout the year. Please check under our Directions tab on our website for the latest happenings.

GETTING HERE FROM NYS THRUWAY (I-87): Exit 16 Harriman. Take Routh 17W (quickway) to Exit 113. get off ramp and go south on Route 209 for two miles. Make a left on Haven Road (after Moose Lodge) which goes across the Bashakill. At the end, make a right on South Road, go two miles and look for the vines and the BashaKill vineyards sign. We are across from the boat launch and public parking area. 

TOURS Yes ACREAGE 10.5 acres

www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012

23


ADAIR VINEYARDS

ABOUT US

Established 1985

ADAIR VINEYARDS is a small family-owned winery and vineyard located in the scenic and historic Hudson Valley. Jim Adair established the winery and vineyard in 1985 when he planted his first vine, and opened the tasting room in 1989. When we acquired the winery in early 1997, it was the realization of a life-long ambition inspired by family heritage and brought to fruition by formal enology and viticulture studies in California and further training in a Pennsylvania vineyard. We often compare a visit to Adair Vineyards to a step into one of the 19th century Hudson River School artist’s paintings. Asher Durand’s 1840 painting “The Solitary Oak” appears on our wine label. And, we have a solitary oak standing at the head of our vineyard. In his painting are cows, horses, mountains, and a stream. Our winery is housed in a barn, over 200 years old, once occupied by cows and horses, and has a stream running by with the Shawangunk Mountains in the background. The tasting room and gift shop are located in the loft of the barn and the winemaking area is below. Our vineyard is located behind the winery. We believe in the simple and natural approach to our winemaking. We allow our grapes to fully mature so that we are able to produce wines characteristic of the grape varieties. In order to maintain the highest quality, our wines VA R I E TA L S are created firstly with estate-grown grapes and then supplemented with additional varieties grown at a local S E Y VA L B L A N C farm with which we have a close working relationship.

VIGNOLES We currently produce more than 30,000 bottles and look forward to increasing our production. Our wines range from dry to slightly sweet. We have won numerous awards for our wines.

CAYUGA WHITE VIDAL BLANC FRONTENAC MARECHAL FOCH

A visit to Adair Vineyards is a

LEON MILLOT

step into one of the 19th century

DE CHAUNAC BACO NOIR

Hudson River School artist’s paintings.

24

HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

MEET THE WINEMAKER Marc Stopkie, winemaker, attended Napa Valley College for enology and viticulture. After completion of his studies at Napa Valley College he interned at various California wineries throughout the state’s wine regions. While wanting to return to his East Coast roots, he secured a position as winemaker/vineyard manager at a Pennsylvania winery. While working at this winery, he became familiar with the East Coast growing climate and the French-American hybrid grape varietals. While working there he searched for his own winery and found it in the Hudson Valley. Marc now grows French-American hybrid varietals suited to the region, as well as experimenting and growing various varietals from Minnesota and Russia. Marc’s winemaking style is rooted in the Old World way. He only uses grapes and fruit grown on the estate or within 15 miles of the winery. He personally cares for the vineyard and every grape processed. He does not rely on technology but instead uses what is naturally occurring in each varietal and season to create carefully handcrafted wines. By following this philosophy he is able to bring out the true characteristics of the fruit and terroir of the Hudson Valley.


IN THE SPOTLIGHT P EC H E

A delicious dessert wine made from 100% White, Yellow, and Donut peaches grown exclusively at Little River Farm in Hudson, NY. In multiple years, this wine has won Double Gold, Gold, and the Valerie Eldridge Cup (Best of Show) in the Hudson Valley Wine Competition.

THE ESSENTIALS OWNERS Marc and Lori Stopkie

ADDRESS 52 Allhusen Road New Paltz, NY 12561

MANAGERS Marc and Lori Stopkie

PHONE 845-255-1377 EMAIL infohvw@adairwine.com WEBSITE www.adairwine.com OPEN May–Oct: Sat & Sun, 11am–6pm  Nov–Mid-Dec: Sat & Sun, 11am–5pm All other times by appointment. 

GETTING HERE FROM NYS THRUWAY (I-87): Take Exit 18 (Poughkeepsie/New Paltz). After tollbooth, turn left (Rt. 299). At 3rd stoplight, turn left (Rt. 32 South). Proceed about 5.5 miles to Allhusen Road. Turn left. Adair vineyards is a big red barn about 1/2 mile on the right. 

ULSTER

VINEYARD ADAIR vINEYARDS

WINEMAKER Marc Stopkie

EVENTS Taste our wines at the following Farmer’s Markets (check website for more information): Muscoot Farms, Katonah: Every Sunday Cold Spring: Second Saturday of the month, year round Schenectady Green Market

TASTING FEES $5

Schenectady Farm Market

TOURS Not available

Peekskill Farm Market

ACREAGE 15 acres

Red Hook Farm Market

Walden Farm Market Beacon Farm Market Albany (Empire State Plaza and Downtown)

PRODUCTION 2,500–3,000 cases  

www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012

25


BALDWIN VINEYARDS

ABOUT US

Established 1982

IN 1982, THE BALDWINS purchased a farm which had been the Hardenburgh Estate since 1786, including a stone home and 18,000 square feet of out buildings situated on 37 acres of prime alluvial farmland.

WINES MIST DI GRECO MEMORIES

The first vineyard was planted in May 1982, and a second vineyard the next year, bringing total vine acreage up to 10 acres. In the Fall of 1982, the first vintage was vinified using grapes purchased locally, and the winery opened in July 1983 with five wines, three of which were awarded medals at the New York State Wine Competition. Baldwin Vineyards has spent the past 30 years garnering awards for their Chardonnay, Merlot, Riesling, Brut Champagne, Port and a dozen other wines, but pioneered New York’s entry into the premium fruit wine category.

Brut Champagne

CHARDONNAY PORT MERLOT CLARET EMBERS Soft, Fruity Red

ILLUSIONS Starting with their Strawberry Wine in 1985 (Best fruit wine at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition 2006 and 2007); they added Apple, Blueberry, Cherry and Black Raspberry wines which have gathered many more awards. The Black Raspberry Wine, alone, has won eight Gold Medals in various wine competitions, in addition to many other awards.

Off-dry white wine

J O S E P H ’ S V I N TA G E Semi-sweet

APPLE

MEET THE WINEMAKERS Pat and Jack Baldwin were living in New Jersey in 1981, enjoying wine as a hobby since their first visit to Europe in 1974 had started their “love affair” with wine. As Director of Les Amis du Vins’ premier new chapter, Pat had 100 members who met monthly to taste the world’s great wines under the tutelage of wine industry’s notables, including Marcia Mondavi. It was a club member who informed Pat that world class wines were being produced 50 miles to the north, in New York’s Hudson River region. After visiting one of the region’s dozen wineries that summer, Pat remarked, “That would be a nice way to live.” So together the Baldwins spent the balance of the year looking at potential winery sites in Pennsylvania, New Jersey and New York.

LATE HARVEST RIESLING

Instead of making their fruit wines

ANTHONY’S VINTAGE

dry, the Baldwins finish their fruit

RASPBERRY

wines so they taste like the fruit

CHERRY

they started from.

BLUEBERRY

Light sparkling

STRAWBERRY The Baldwins’ philosophy on fruit wines, which began a ICE WINE trend throughout the entire Northeast, was to vinify fruit wines as premium varietal wines, rather than the old tradition of adding water and other less expensive fruit juices to bring down the cost. Instead of making the fruit wines dry, as was the tradition, the Baldwins finished their fruit wines so they tasted like the fruit they started from. Baldwin hosts a Strawberry, Chocolate & Wine Festival, serving their famous strawberry and chocolate desserts along with a wine tasting of their fifteen different wines. There are sixteen Festivals scheduled for 2012. Visit our website www.baldwinvineyards.com for dates and times.

During a blizzard in February 1982, they visited a 37-acre farm in the Hudson River region. After walking the property in below-freezing weather, with six inches of snow already on the ground, they “bought the farm,” on two conditions: 1. The town would allow them to put up a sign – “Baldwin Vineyards,” and 2. Cornell University would inspect the site and declare it fit for grape growing. Both conditions passed, and in July 1982, the Baldwins took title to the property. Yet, not wanting to wait until Spring of the following year, the Baldwins planted their first vineyard in May before they officially owned the property, and before they could improve the lot. And so, defying all logic, they had their vineyard, Baldwin Vineyards! With Pat’s unique talent for organizing and developing, and utilizing the services of two wine consultants, the winery opened in July 1983. They sold out of their first year’s wine in just a few months. Then in 1985, one of their consultants brought the Baldwins a bottle of 1919 elderberry wine found in a cellar of an old house. Not able to find any elderberries, they contracted for two tons of strawberries, and made their very first batch of strawberry wine. It became their best seller, and began garnering at least one Gold Medal each year since.

26

HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012


IN THE SPOTLIGHT Recognizing that wine goes best with food, the Baldwins started a tradition in 2006 to have frequent Strawberry, Chocolate & Wine Festivals, which involve tasting all of our wines accompanied by three chocolate/strawberry desserts. The food makes all the vibrant flavors in the wines stand out, and the desserts taste much better accompanied by the various wines. Imagine tasting cheesecake with a Port or Ice Wine, strawberry shortcake with Brut Champagne or Late Harvest Riesling, or chocolate desserts with Strawberry or Black Raspberry Wine. The Ice Wine is our newest wine addition – a Riesling frozen on the vines until the juice is like a sweet, intense syrup. These very special grapes have a full-bodied luscious flavor like no other grape wine – making it the perfect dessert wine.

THE ESSENTIALS TOURS Not available

ADDRESS 176 Hardenburgh Road  Pine Bush, NY 12566

ACREAGE 37 acres

PHONE 845-744-2226 FAX 845-744-6321 EMAIL baldwin_vineyards@frontiernet.net WEBSITE www.baldwinvineyards.com

GETTING HERE FROM Rt. 17: Exit 116 on Rt. 17 (soon to be Rt. 86), take Rt. 302 North to Pine Bush. At the first traffic light in Pine Bush, go straight through the light onto Maple Avenue (don’t make a left or right onto Rt. 52/Main Street). Follow the signs for one mile, and the old stone house and winery will be on the right side.  Baldwin vineyards is on the Orange/ulster county border in southeastern New York. gPS co-ordinates are -74.293735, and 41.618957.

OPEN July–Oct: every day except Mon & Tues 12pm–5pm  Apr–Jun: Thurs, Fri, Sat, Sun, 12pm–5pm Nov–Dec: Thurs, Fri, Sat, Sun, 12pm–5pm

ULSTER

VINEYARD BALDWIN vINEYARDS

PRODUCTION 2,500 cases OWNER Pat and Jack Baldwin MANAGER Pat and Jack Baldwin WINEMAKER Pat and Jack Baldwin

EVENTS Strawberry, Chocolate & Wine Festival – visit our website for a complete listing of dates and times

CLOSED Easter, Thanksgiving, Christmas TASTING FEES $7 includes tasting glass $15/pp for festivals, or FREE with  the purchase of six bottles of wine,  includes tasting glass

www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012

27


BENMARL WINERY

ABOUT US

Established 1957

WINE HAS BECOME VERY IMPORTANT to Americans. Moreover, we are drinking increasing amounts of wine grown in our own native soils, as well as, and frequently in preference to, wines originating in famous Old World regions. This acceptance of our own wines is quite a recent development. It has come about only through the efforts of a few American wine lovers who are determined to demonstrate that fine winemaking, both as an art and as a business, is well within the capability of our nation’s climate, soils, and talents. Hundreds of stories could and will be told of the difficulties and rewards experienced by these dedicated people during this accomplishment. One such story begins appropriately on a vineyard in the Hudson River Valley, the oldest wine district in the United States. Wine has been made from the grapes of this region since the 17th century when the French Huguenots grew vines and made wine in nearby New Paltz. Among the young farmers attracted to this burgeoning industry in the early 1800s was Andrew Jackson Caywood who bought and planted a handsome piece of land high above the river in an even older Hudson region grape growing community, dating from 1772. When the community incorporated as the Village of Marlborough, in 1788, a cluster of grapes carved in its seal commemorated its major crop. Caywood became an outstanding viticulturist and leading authority in the development of new grape varieties.

WINES RIESLING S E Y VA L B L A N C SL ATE HILL WHITE TRAMINETTE DRY ROSÉ BACO NOIR CABERNET FRANC CABERNET SAUVIGNON

When the Miller family bought the Caywood property in 1957 and renamed it Benmarl, it had outlived all of its early contemporaries to become America’s oldest professional vineyard. The Millers rebuilt its steep terraces, replanting them with European wine grapes, both hybrid and vinifera, carrying on Caywood’s private experimentation at a time when New York’s wine industry was at a low ebb, and long before New York State officially began experimental wine study.

FRONTENAC MERLOT SYRAH ZINFANDEL

In 2006, the Spaccarelli family purchased Benmarl Winery from the Miller family, with the intention of reviving the spirit of Hudson Valley viticulture and the process of wine making. They have proven to be a new face to an old tradition. By replanting many of the abandoned vineyards and refurbishing the estate, they have managed to bring a new light to Benmarl, without sacrificing the tradition and history that makes it so special. And, carrying on the tradition of experimentation, they have planted new hybrid varieties like Traminette, as well as Old World vinifera. Benmarl and the Spaccarelli family are dedicated to the renaissance of New York’s first vineyard region, and have faith that the Hudson Valley will be recognized throughout the world as a producer of high quality wines, enhanced by a regional character which sets it apart from any others in the world.

28

HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

MEET THE WINEMAKER There seems to be a theme of “winemaker” made wines that has dominated the American wine scene in recent years. New World winemakers are gaining celebrity status, crafting exquisite wines that not only showcase their own style, but also reflect trends in the market. That being said, there has been a shift away from terroir-driven wines. New World wines are, in certain ways, losing their sense of place. At Benmarl Winery, the winemaking process has been increasingly focused not only on varietal characteristics, but on this idea of expressing terroir. They strive to make not only great wines, but great wines that reflect where they are from. “The decisions that we make in the cellar are very important,” says the winemaker and GM of Benmarl. “But not as important as the quality and consistency of the fruit that we grow and purchase.” In recent years the Spaccarelli family has been refurbishing their existing vineyards and planting new ones. Investment in new temperature-controlled tanks, French and American Barrels, and a state-of-the-art bottling line, has added to their focus on quality and consistency. The whites at Benmarl are generally bottled young, capturing their youthful fruit and often times minerally characteristics. The Chardonnay component of their Slate Hill White is the only white that sees oak. The reds are all carefully aged in French, American, and Hungarian oak barrels, striving to strike balance between flavor, aroma, and texture.


IN THE SPOTLIGHT E STAT E B AC O N O I R

Bottled every year in May, everyone impatiently awaits our award-winning Baco Noir. A light to medium bodied wine with the classic peppery red cherry fruit that only Baco can offer. Benmarl has been producing Baco Noir for fifty years. S L AT E H I L L W H I T E

Light to medium bodied, floral with a slight mandarin orange and citrus flavor. Pale yellow with fresh acidity. An attractive white to enjoy on the hazy, lazy days of summer. Bring this chilled wine to the beach and while away the hours. CA B E R N E T F R A N C

Earthy with notes of raspberry and cherry. Lightly oaked with a spicy finish of black pepper and vanilla.

THE ESSENTIALS PRODUCTION 3,700 cases

ADDRESS 156 Highland Avenue Marlboro, NY 12542

OWNER victor Spaccarelli 

PHONE 845-236-4265

GETTING HERE FROM NYS THRUWAY (I-87): Take Exit 17 (Newburgh); then take I-84 East and  exit at Rt. 9W Newburgh (just before the Newburgh/Beacon Bridge); Rt. 9W North about 4.5 miles, then turn left on Conway Rd., keep to the right. The Benmarl sign and entrance are 1 mile on the right. FROM ORANGE COUNTY & PA: Rt. 9W Newburgh (just before the Newburgh/ Beacon Bridge); Route 9W north about 4.5 miles, then turn left on Conway Rd., keep to the right. The Benmarl sign and entrance are 1 mile on the right. FROM PUTNAM COUNTY & CT: Take I-84 West and cross the Newburgh/ Beacon Bridge; Route 9W North about 4.5 miles, then turn left on Conway Rd; keep to the right. The Benmarl sign and entrance are 1 mile on the right.

FAX 845-236-7271 EMAIL matthew@benmarl.com

ULSTER

VINEYARD BENMARL WINERY

MANAGER Matthew Spaccarelli   WINEMAKER Matthew Spaccarelli

EVENTS (check website for updated listings) Sept 22–23 Annual Harvest Grape Stomping Festival, 12–7pm

WEBSITE www.benmarl.com

Oct 6–7

OPEN 12pm–6pm, every day

For a list of Shawangunk Trail events go to: gunkswine.com

Annual Harvest Grape Stomping Festival, 12–7pm

CLOSED Thanksgiving, Christmas New Years Day, Easter TASTING FEES $8 for 6 wines TOURS Our working cellar is open for views ACREAGE 37 acres

Buses please call in advance.

www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012

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BRIMSTONE HILL VINEYARD

ABOUT US

Established 1982

BRIMSTONE HILL IS AMONG the older group of Hudson Valley vineyards and wineries. The actual vineyard dates back to 1969 when Richard and Valerie Eldridge planted some 20 varieties of “French hybrid” grapes on approximately a half acre of sloping land. The Eldridges were (and still are) dedicated oenophiles. This tradition really stems from Valerie’s background. She was French by origin, and she grew up in an extended French winemaking family from the Loire Valley. In the 1970s the Eldridge vineyards expanded to about 3-4 acres of grapes. The decision to try a small winery was made in 1978-79, a time period when there was considerable interest in establishing smaller wineries throughout the Hudson Valley. There was (and still is) much to learn about appropriate grape varieties, wine types and wine-making techniques for this region. Initially, the French-American hybrid grape varietals seemed to be the most appropriate for better wines. As the 1980s progressed some of the traditional European vitis vinifera varieties showed considerable promise. Then, as Cornell became better focused on higher quality wine grape varieties (remember Cornell has had a grape breeding program for generations), some of their interspecific hybrid varieties have blossomed in the Hudson Valley. Brimstone Hill has worked with all of these categorical groupings in a strong effort to make distinctive regional wines, which we are proud of. As for size, our vineyards have expanded considerably; we now have about 10 acres producing, and about 3 to 4 acres which are not yet in production. Our operation continues to be somewhat experimental in nature. One of the pioneering ventures we are very proud of is the development of a sparkling wine, which is made in the tradition of the French champagnes. Our current production is between 7,500 and 10,000 bottles per year.

WINES DOMAINE BOURMONT S PA R K L I N G W I N E S E Y VA L B L A N C CHARDONNAY VIN ROUGE

Brimstone Hill has worked to make CABERNET FRANC

distinctive regional wines, which we are proud of.

NOIRET CAYUGA WHITE VIDAL BLANC RIESLING

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HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

MEET THE WINEMAKER Richard Eldridge, owner and winemaker, stumbled into wine through marriage to the late Valerie de Bourmont who introduced him to wine. In a sense, the rest is history. The Eldridges became fascinated with the possibilities of growing and making very good wines here in the East. We tend to think of wine as one of the more important staples of the diet. The winemaking process in the East, however, is much more challenging than in California. This is largely due to the Eastern climatic conditions coupled with a limited tradition of wine and viticulture. Most of the California wine grape varieties cannot handle our cold winters and short, rainy, growing seasons. Further, Eastern grapes tend to be significantly higher in acidity and lower in sugar than their California counterparts. This condition can be addressed, but the process does become more complicated. The higher acidity does have a major advantage in making both sweeter wines and sparkling wines. The drier table wines tend to be on the lighter side with a certain zesty quality. At Brimstone Hill we are committed to the task of making better wines which will please our customers.


IN THE SPOTLIGHT NOIRET

This is a fairly recent NY State red grape which was developed by Cornell. It produces a very high-quality red wine with good tannins and overtones of black pepper. Noiret picks up an added richness when it is aged in oak barrels, and it accompanies most foods very well. It has proven to be very popular in our tasting room.

CA B E R N E T F R A N C

CAY U G A W H I T E

A semi-sweet wine with a delicate flavor and aroma. People frequently say that it possesses overtones of pear. Cayuga White is a great sipping wine on a hot summer afternoon, and it goes nicely with fruits and/or desserts. It is our most popular wine year in and year out. DOMAINE BOURMONT S PA R K L I N G W I N E

Our sparkling wine is a light dry (brut) sparkler made in the full Méthode Champenoise tradition. This means that the second fermentation occurs in the bottle, that is, the actual bottle in which the wine is served. It is a great wine to have with any celebration.

THE ESSENTIALS VINEYARD BRIMSTONE HILL vINEYARD

OWNER Richard Eldridge

ADDRESS 61 Brimstone Hill Road Pine Bush, NY 12566

MANAGER Richard Eldridge

PHONE 845-744-2231 FAX 845-744-4782 EMAIL bhvwine@frontiernet.net WEBSITE www.brimstonehillwine.com OPEN Memorial Day–Columbus Day:  Fri, Sat, Sun & Mon, 11:30am–5:30pm Columbus Day–Memorial Day:  Sat & Sun, 11:30am–5:30pm  TASTING FEES $3 for table wines available $1.50 for sparkling wine TOURS Available by appointment ACREAGE 10 acres

ULSTER

Thirty years ago, Cabernet Franc was almost unknown in Eastern winemaking and viticultural circles, but it has developed a steady and growing following among our customers. At Cornell it has proven to be the most winter hardy of the traditional European wine grape varieties, and it is reasonably disease-resistant. At Brimstone Hill we vinify Cabernet Franc along the lines of the Loire Valley Cabernet Franc wines. It is excellent with red meats, and it accompanies pasta dishes nicely.

WINEMAKER Richard Eldridge EVENTS Champagne, Chocolate and Wine – A Valentines Day event held every Presidents’ Weekend (Sat & Sun)

GETTING HERE FROM NYS THRUWAY (I-87): Take Exit 16, Rte. 17W to Exit 119. Turn right on Rt. 302 to Pine Bush, left on Route 52, go 1 mile to New Prospect Rd. Turn right and go ½ mile to Brimstone Hill Rd., then turn left.  FROM NORTH & ALBANY: I-87 South to Exit 18, Route 299W to left on Libertyville Rd. (u.C.7) which becomes Bruynswyck Rd. Make right on Brimstone Hill Rd.  FROM EAST & CT: Route 84 West, take Exit 8 to Route 52W to Pine Bush. See above.  FROM WEST: Route 84E to Exit 4 to 17W. to Exit 119. See above from South.

PRODUCTION 625-850 cases

www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012

31


CEREGHINO SMITH

ABOUT US

Established 2007

LOCATED IN THE HAMLET of Bloomington, there is a small commercial winery in New York’s Hudson Valley, perhaps the smallest in the state. There is no vineyard at Cereghino Smith and in the tradition of Old World négociants, the winemakers select and source their grapes from small growers in California, New York and Washington State. Although small, Cereghino Smith wines are usually quite robust, inspired by classic European winemakers and their garagistes counterparts. As a working winery in a 1,000 square foot, 150-year-old renovated barn, Cereghino Smith keeps no tasting room hours although barrel tastings can be arranged by appointment. Emphasis is on quality rather than quantity . . . grapes being hand-sorted and the vinification being more artisanal than scientific. To preserve the true character and richness of our wine, “time and gravity” is the preferred method of filtration. In 1999, Cereghino Smith began their adventure on Houston Street in New York City’s Lower East Side. After a family trip to Liguria and Piemonte, Paula Cereghino excitedly showed Fred Smith pictures of herself posing next to giant barrels in Barbaresco. Two days later, he presented her with a book on winemaking inscribed, “If you can make it here, you can make it anywhere . . . Bon Chance.” Knowing that Paula’s grandfather, Joseph Cereghino, had been a winemaker/ farmer in Tacoma Washington via Genoa, Fred saw this as an opportunity to both carry on the family tradition and guarantee a steady supply of wine. After honing their winemaking skills in the city, they were off to the Hudson Valley to start a winery where their dream became a reality.

VA R I E TA L S PETITE SIRAH WASHINGTON STATE SYRAH AMADOR COUNTY CA SYRAH MOURVEDRE GRENACHE NY CABERNET FRANC SANGIOVESE PETIT VERDOT SAUVIGNON BLANC VIOGNIER

BLENDS EATEN BY BEARS ROCK & ROLL RED LITTLE HOUSE SUPER HUDSON

TARRAGONA

quantity . . . grapes being hand-

BIANCA

sorted and the vinification being

LITTLE HOUSE WHITE

PHOTOS: Jennifer May (above left); Christina Mae Photography (center)

32

HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

After a year of searching, we fell in love with and purchased an old stone Huguenot house in Ulster County built in 1784, complete with a couple of acres and a circa 1860 barn with a dirt floor. Just in time for the 2004 crush, the barn was renovated and transformed into our winery. Although the winery was ready, the harsh winters of 2003 and 2004 devastated most of New York’s grape crop (other wineries were calling us for grapes), leaving us no choice but to contract for out of state fruit. In the tradition of Italian-American winemakers in Brooklyn, only California grapes were used in our first Bloomington vintage. We carried on with California fruit until 2008 when we used New York Cabernet Franc for the first time. We were delighted with the wine’s bright acidity, crisp notes of red orchard fruits and the resulting low alcohol. The bi-coastal nature of Cereghino Smith was born. Being that Paula grew up in Seattle and Fred was born in Manhattan, it all seemed to make sense. West Coast meeting East Coast seemed to be rather balanced and symbiotic. Fred’s interest in wine developed while touring Europe as the bassist for influential rock band, “Television”. He was introduced to fine wines by generous promoters and wine-savvy English roadies.

GENOA

Emphasis is on quality rather than

more artisanal than scientific.

MEET THE WINEMAKERS

With a degree in Art and Philosophy, Paula subsequently found herself in retail and wholesale. Her time at Sherry Lehmann Wine Merchants and Le Du’s Wines proved to be a true wine education and inspiration. Paula Cereghino and Fred Smith wear all hats as owners, winemakers, label designers and sales staff.


IN THE SPOTLIGHT SUPER HUDSON 2010

Inspired by the Super Tuscan producers of Italy, Cereghino Smith explores the symbiotic nature of New York’s Cabernet Franc and California’s Sangiovese accented with a touch of the Hudson Valley’s own Baco Noir, Chambourcin and Chelois. ..Super Hudson. This Hudson Valley medley was harvested from the Bedford-Pierro Vineyard at Flint Mine Hill.

THE ESSENTIALS

This “Mediterranean” blend, a quintet of robust varietals featuring Mourvedre, Petit Verdot, Petite Sirah, Cabernet Franc and Sangiovese, appears on restaurant wine lists at the Culinary Institute of America. The label features the work of William Beard 1825-1900. Our friend Bernie Mooney said, “You’ll get eaten by bears” when we moved upstate and “I’ll buy a case of wine if you name it that!”…hence the silly name and fabulous label.

WINERY CEREgHINO SMITH

WINEMAKERS Paula Cereghino, Fred Smith

ADDRESS PO Box 193 2583 Route 32 Bloomington, NY 12411

EVENTS (check website for more tastings and

PHONE 845-334-8282 EMAIL cereghinosmithwine@yahoo.com info@cereghinosmith.com

Bob Bedford and Linda Pierro introduced us to this Austrian Wine grape being grown in their Hudson Valley vineyard at Flint Mine Hill. We made a small production in 2010 and the Zweigelt Project was born. Check out its progress at: www.zweigeltproject.com

GETTING HERE

events as scheduled)

Sept 8–9

Hudson Valley Wine and Food Festival Dutchess County Fairgrounds

Sept 15

Boldt Castle Wine Festival and Farmers Market Heart Island, Thousand Islands, NY

Sept 22–23 Stems & Steins Wine, Beer and Food Festival Old Forge, NY

WEBSITE www.cereghinosmith.com

Z W E I G E LT P R OJ EC T

Oct 6

9th Annual Wine Festival at Bethel Woods Center for the Arts Bethel, NY

ACREAGE 2 acres

Oct 7

Highland Hudson Fest Foot of the Pedestrian Bridge, Highland, NY

PRODUCTION 600 cases

Oct 13–14

Hunter Mountain Wine & Brew Festival Hunter, NY

OPEN Tastings by appointment

OWNERS Paula Cereghino, Fred Smith

ULSTER

E AT E N BY B E A R S 2 0 1 0

MANAGERS Paula Cereghino, Fred Smith

Call for directions 845.334.8282

www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012

33


GLORIE FARM WINERY

ABOUT US

Established 2004

GLORIE FARM WINERY WAS CONCEIVED in a love affair between agriculture and wine. We have been growing grapes on our Marlboro hillside farm for home winemakers and many Valley wineries for nearly 30 years. At an elevation of 800 feet and with southeastern slopes, our location is considered one of the premier vineyard sites in the Hudson Valley, and virtually all visitors’ first reaction upon arrival is to comment on the amazing, 35-mile, panoramic view from this spot. Estate-grown grapes make up ninety percent of our wines. Hudson Valley standards Seyval Blanc and Cabernet Franc lead the way, followed by DeChaunac, Cayuga White and Vidal Blanc, and more recently Riesling and Marquette. With these and others, we currently have a dozen varieties on trellis and continuously evaluate new and existing cultivars for future plantings. Our tree fruit, brambles and ribes are the sources for our fruit wines. Black currants, members of the ribe family, were banned from propagation in New York State in 1911. The ban was lifted in 2003, and we planted cuttings soon after, reaping our first harvest in 2008. An intensely-flavored, deep red, sweet-tart wine was produced, a unique, rich taste experience that our customers immediately embraced. Surrounded by the vibrant orchards and vineyards on our 54-acre fruit farm, a large, red-roofed barn built in 1913 was partially renovated between 2004 and 2007 for the winery and a tasting room. In the comfortable rustic elegance of our tasting room, we have but one objective – to be sure that each customer leaves having had a positive experience. We strive to provide visitors with a friendly, approachable atmosphere where they may select from an extensive list of gently handcrafted wines for tasting. Dry, semi-dry and sweet; red, white, and fruit wines; you’ll find them all here. We have a style for every palate.

WHITE WINES S E Y VA L B L A N C RIESLING LUNAR WHITE JUMPIN JAZZ R U M P L E P U M P K I N TM Available Labor Day

SWEET CAROLINE PEACH WINE

RED WINES DE CHAUNAC OAK

HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

It has been said – and it is true – that winemaking starts in the vineyard. Each year we make small changes in our vineyards, which we believe will enhance our grapes’ varietal flavors. In the fall of each year, we continuously monitor the crop so as to harvest at peak conditions. Once harvested, we evaluate what winemaking strategy should be pursued. There are many styles and techniques from which to choose. We select the best one depending on the grape variety and its condition. The winemaking process at Glorie Farm Winery is a team effort. It is directed by Doug, implemented by our consultant, Kristop Brown, and rounded out by MaryEllen’s sensory and blending skills. The result is wine that everyone can identify with and enjoy.

RED MONKEY CABERNET FRANC 2010 SYNERGY WORLD

Agriculture is a way of life for us. Only 2% of our nation’s RED QUARTET population is involved in farming, and we are proud JIBBER JABBER members of this innovative, resilient group. We use sustainable practices including a solar electric system C A N D Y A S S R E D TM installed in 2008 that produces 100% of the electricity BLACK CURRANT used by the winery. Utilizing barrels made from New York WINE State oak helps to reduce our carbon footprint and supports regional businesses. It is our hope that 100 years from now this property will still be a farm. In addition, we are members of the Shawangunk Wine Trail, Hudson Valley Wine and Grape Association, New York Wine and Grape Foundation, Cornell Cooperative Extension, New York Farm Bureau, and the Marlborough Agricultural Alliance (Meet Me in Marlborough).

34

MEET THE WINEMAKERS

In the comfortable rustic elegance of our tasting room, we have but one objective – to be sure that each customer leaves having had a positive experience.


IN THE SPOTLIGHT S E Y VA L B L A N C

Vinified in the classic style – dry and crisp. Our answer to California Chardonnay. RIESLING

Semi-dry with flavors of green melon, pear and honey. R U M P L E P U M P K I N TM

With its subtle flavors, it’s perfect for cocktail hour, with baked fruit desserts and just cozying up to a warm, toasty fire. This is your fall/winter wine. P E AC H W I N E

Sweet, delicious summer treat! Made from fresh, ripe peaches. CA B E R N E T F R A N C

Barrel aging in New York Oak integrated perfectly with this wine’s natural fruit flavor and gentle tannins. CA N DY ASS R E D T M

THE ESSENTIALS VINEYARD gLORIE FARM WINERY

TOURS By request

ADDRESS 40 Mountain Road Marlboro, NY 12542

ACREAGE 54 in land, 20 in fruit, 6 of which  are grapes

PHONE 845-236-3265

PRODUCTION 700 cases

FAX 845-236-3265

OWNERS Douglas and MaryEllen glorie

EMAIL gloriefarmwinery@aol.com

MANAGER Douglas and MaryEllen glorie

WEBSITE www.gloriewine.com

WINEMAKERS Kristop Brown and Doug glorie

ULSTER

Need we say more? A lollipop in a glass; this wine is pure fun! Like grape juice on steroids. B L AC K C U R R A N T W I N E

An intensely flavored, deep red, sweet-tart wine made from our black currants.

GETTING HERE FROM THE NYS THRUWAY (I-87): Exit 17 (Newburgh). Take I-84 East to Exit 10. Turn left onto 9W North. Drive 7 miles to the village of Marlboro. Turn left onto County Route 14. Drive 1.5 miles to the stop sign, and turn right onto County Route 11. Drive one mile and turn left onto Reservoir Road. Drive one mile and turn right onto Mountain Road. Winery will be on the left.

OPEN Saturday, Sunday & Monday holidays May–August, November–December: 11:30am–5:30pm  September–October: 11:30am–6pm Also by appointment and by chance

EVENTS For a complete listing of events visit: www.gunkswine.com

TASTING FEES Your choice of five wines for $5.  Souvenir glass included.  Spectacular view, no charge.

www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012

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ROBIBERO WINERY

ABOUT US

Established 2010

“WE ARE NOT A WINE COMPANY therefore we don’t have a corporate mission. We are a family that happens to have a passion for wine. We are a family that loves each other very much. We fight with passion and forgive quickly. We call each other 20 times a day. We know that if we win together, we lose together. We think if it’s easy, you’re probably doing it wrong. We believe in working 7 days a week, 364 days a year. We can’t make decisions easily and we overthink everything we do. We believe in giving more when you want to give up. We think if you work half days that means 12 hours. We drink a lot of coffee and a lot of wine. We don’t believe in wine rating systems. We believe that you should like what you drink and drink what you like. We like to laugh until we can’t breathe. W I N E S We think it’s important to be able to laugh at yourself. We find things funny that most people wouldn’t. We believe SERENDIPITY you don’t need to know all the answers; no one is smart Seyval Blanc/ enough to ask you all the questions. We think that if your Chardonnay name is on the sign, you probably should be in the buildDRY RIESLING ing. We believe you should learn from others’ mistakes, you can’t live long enough to make them all yourself. We don’t RIESLING have a plan, we have a dream. We are not chasing our dreams; we crush them and put them in bottles.”

ARCTIC RIESLING

Established in 2010, Robibero Winery is one of New York’s newest wineries, and the most recent addition to the Shawangunk Wine Trail. The newly-planted estate vineyard is set on a 42-acre property that is nestled in and around the breathtaking Shawangunk Ridge. This majestic location is just a few miles from the historic town of New Paltz and only an 85-mile scenic drive from NYC.

87 NORTH

Robibero Winery is a family-friendly, pet-friendly establishment. The elegant tasting room includes a spacious concrete bar, fireplace, 52” flat screen TV, and plenty of indoor seating. Outside, the 90-foot deck offers panoramic views overlooking the vineyard and includes a pergola-covered patio on one side, and awning on the other. Along the lushly manicured sloping fields of the property, you will find picnic benches that welcome you to bring your lunch, and an outdoor fire-pit to keep you warm on those chilly nights.

Baco Noir/Merlot/ Cabernet Sauvignon

Cayuga White/ Vidal Blanc

ROSÉ PINOT NOIR RABBIT’S FOOT

CABERNET FRANC MERLOT CABERNET SAUVIGNON SYRAH

From the tasting room to the cellar, the Robibero family is truly hands-on.

All of the wines are hand-crafted in small lots to express unique and charming vintages, making them very limited in production.

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HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

MEET THE WINEMAKER Kristop Brown is considered one of the most technically gifted winemakers in the Hudson Valley. Kristop’s winemaking origins began at Benmarl when he learned to make wine under the apprenticeship of Eric Miller, son of Mark Miller. He further expanded his knowledge when he ventured to the West Coast to practice his craft in Walla Walla, Washington. In 2011 Kristop returned to his roots of winemaking when he joined forces with the newlyopened Robibero Winery. Kristop and the Robiberos are producing premium artisan wines that are distinctive to their terroir. All of the wines are handcrafted in small lots to express unique and charming vintages, making them very limited in production. “There are posters and there are paintings. Our wines are like paintings, hand-crafted and not mass produced like posters.” To find out more about what’s going on in the tasting room, cellar and vineyard, become our fan at: Facebook.com/RobiberoFamilyVineyards and follow us at: Twitter.com/Robiberowinery


IN THE SPOTLIGHT 2 0 1 0 D RY R I E S L I N G

Double Gold Medal Winner – Finger Lakes International Wine Competition Silver Medal Winner – NY Wine & Food Classic A delightful citrusy nose of pear and grapefruit that leads into green apple and lime flavors on the palate. Dry and crisp with fresh acidity and subtle slate character. A lingering spicy pear finish with a touch of honey. 8 7 N O RT H

Silver Medal Winner – NY Wine & Food Classic Silver Medal Winner – Hudson Valley Wine Competition Named after the NYS Thruway, this wine has become a Robibero signature. A blend of 50% Vidal Blanc, 50% Cayuga White. Honeydew and grapefruit aromas with a clean, crisp refreshing finish.

THE ESSENTIALS ACREAGE 42 acres

ADDRESS 714 Albany Post Road New Paltz, NY 12561

PRODUCTION 2,500 cases

PHONE 845-255-9463 (WINE) FAX 914-693-9593 EMAIL Rnywine@yahoo.com  WEBSITE www.Rnewyorkwine.com

GETTING HERE From Exit 18 off NYS thruway (I-87): Turn left at traffic light onto Route 299/Main Street. Follow Main Street through the village of New Paltz. Cross over the Wallkill River’s small metal bridge. Bear left onto Libertyville Road (Rt. 7) at the fork just past Wallkill view Farm. Follow for 4.5 miles and stay straight on Libertyville road as it merges with Albany Post road. Robibero Winery is on the right hand side of the road.

OPEN Jan–Feb: Sat & Sun, 11am–6pm March–June, Nov–Dec:  Thurs–Sun, 11am–6pm July–Oct: Thur, Fri, Sun, Mon, 11am–6pm, Sat, 11am–8pm

ULSTER

VINEYARD ROBIBERO WINERY

OWNERS Harry and Carole Robibero MANAGER Tiffany Robibero Selby WINEMAKER Kristop Brown ASSISTANT WINEMAKER Ryan Selby

EVENTS (Check website for full listing of events) Live Music Every Weekend, 2–5pm Aug 25

Winestock

CLOSED Thanksgiving, Christmas, New Years Day TASTING FEES $7.00  TOURS visit website for scheduled tour dates/times

www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012

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STOUTRIDGE VINEYARD

ABOUT US

Established 2006

STOUTRIDGE VINEYARD is a premium estate winery located in Marlboro, New York, 70 miles north of Manhattan. We are members of the Shawangunk Wine Trail, as well as the Meet Me In Marlborough Farm Trail. The vineyards are half a mile from the beautiful Hudson River on the southeast facing slopes of a ridge of land on which grapevines and fruit trees have been continuously planted for 200 years. The Marlboro area has a rich history of fruit and wine production and during the 1800s was the principal supplier of fresh fruit for New York City. Next to the winery is a picturesque and historic stone farmhouse known to elder locals as “The Homestead.” Its ten-foot-high fieldstone foundation was built around 1855 and was dug out of the vineyard hillside. This house had a barn which, between 1902 and 1919, was the “Marono Winery.” Its one, dry-stacked stone foundation wall remains. Our impressive new winery building directly on the site of the “1902” Marono Winery features a “gravity flow” style production with an emphasis on the use of traditional “hands-off ” winemaking techniques, which we believe are necessary to preserve the delicate fruit of our regional wines. Our spacious tasting room has an outdoor patio integrated with the old winery foundation wall. Our solar photovoltaic array on the south roof of the production area is over 2,000 sq. ft. of cell area and can produce 30 kW of electricity on a sunny day. Over the year we expect to be a net producer of electricity with the panels supplying more power than we use.

VA R I E TA L S PINOT BLANC VIDAL BLANC

MEET THE WINEMAKER At Stoutridge, there are many sustainable methods employed which result in a low environmental impact, as well as a smaller carbon footprint. We are involved in a sustainability study with Cornell University to maximize their results in these areas. We subscribe to the “Slow Wine” philosophy of winemaking using minimal intervention and gravity winemaking approach. This philosophy focuses on techniques which make the best wine as a priority, rather than techniques which bring a wine to the marketplace faster. Speeding up the winemaking process is hard on the wine, and has a greater negative impact on the environment. Filtering is one example that rarely improves the quality of a wine, and it produces waste material that is difficult to dispose of in an eco-friendly manner.

MUSCAT In our wine production area we use a series of electric hoists to lift entire tanks of wine in order to move the wine to different locations in the winery. This means that we don’t use a pump which is much less energy efficient than the hoist.

RIESLING PINOT NOIR SANGIOVESE TEROLDEGO

Ninety percent of our wines come from very local vineREFOSCO yards. By using local grapes we reduce the amount of fuel used for transportation to our crush pad. One of our primary goals at Stoutridge is to capture local flavor. Indeed, many of our wines are farm-centric where we bottle a wine that is made 100% from the vines of a small Hudson Valley farm, in an attempt to capture its authenticity.

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HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

At Stoutridge, by reducing or eliminating filtering, we have found that we also save on production costs and even reduce our carbon footprint. Our unfiltered wines require a longer time to settle and to clarify, though. Our white wines, whether barreled or not, are bottled only after 11 months of aging. The second key component of Slow Winemaking is the gravity method of making wine without the use of pumps. The lack of turbulence in the transfer of wine from tank to tank is also a key to retaining the quality of flavor of the grapes in the finished wine.


IN THE SPOTLIGHT CA B E R N E T F R A N C R O S É

A bright rosé wine in the classic European dry fruit-forward style. Matured in large casks for a year to bring out bouquet and surprising complexity.

G R AV I TAS

S E Y VA L B L A N C

The signature white varietal of the Hudson Valley. Dry fresh subtle fruit and mineral flavored wine so successful in seafood and especially shellfish parings. CA B E R N E T F R A N C / N O I R E T

This wine combines the spice characteristics of white and black pepper of the Noiret grape with the green bell pepper of Cabernet Franc. A classic interplay between spice and vegetable flavors makes an ideal wine for veal, beef, or game birds. 50% Cabernet Franc /50% Noiret. Unfiltered and unfined.

GETTING HERE FROM NYS THRUWAY (RT. 87): Exit 17 (Newburgh). Take Interstate 84 East to  Exit 10 for Rt. 9W North. go 7 miles to the hamlet of Marlboro. Turn left onto County Route 14, Western Avenue. After 0.3 miles make the first right onto Prospect St. and keep to the left. After 0.3 miles make the first left onto Ann Kaley Lane. Proceed to the parking lot at the end of the street.

THE ESSENTIALS VINEYARD STOuTRIDgE vINEYARD

ACREAGE 10 acres of grapes

ADDRESS 10 Ann Kaley Lane Marlboro, NY 12542

PRODUCTION 4,000 cases

PHONE 845-236-7620 FAX 845-236-7621 EMAIL steve@stoutridge.com WEBSITE www.stoutridge.com OPEN Friday–Sunday: 11am–6pm, all year

ULSTER

A blend of the locally grown red grapes in a deep rich luscious red wine. Complex and inviting. Delicious now but can be cellared for many years.

OWNER Stephen Osborn, Kim Wagner MANAGER Stephen Osborn WINEMAKER Stephen Osborn

EVENTS For a complete list of events visit: www.shawangunkwinetrail.com

CLOSED Monday–Thursday TASTING FEES $5 for 5 tastes includes  complimentary glass TOURS $30.00 for winemaker tour of  gravity winery

www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012

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WHITECLIFF VINEYARD

ABOUT US

Established 1998

RECOGNIZED BY HUDSON VALLEY Magazine as “one of the Valley’s most ambitious wineries,” Whitecliff produces fine, complex wines that stand out both here in the Hudson Valley, and on the world wine stage. We have a gorgeous site, with spectacular cliff views of the Shawangunk Ridge near New Paltz.

VA R I E TA L S CHARDONNAY RIESLING GEWÜRZTRAMINER

We received a truly prestigious and game-changing award in the summer of 2010, a Double Gold and Best White Wine in Show, for our 2009 Riesling at the San Francisco International Wine Competition—huge for a small East Coast family winery. San Francisco is the oldest, biggest and most prestigious wine competition in America. In 2010, 1,290 wineries submitted wines from 27 countries, and 28 states. In a blind tasting by 45 respected judges, our Riesling was judged to be the very best white, winning over some amazing wines from around the world. This says that Whitecliff—and Hudson Valley winemaking—have truly arrived on the world wine stage! The Wall Street Journal also pointed out that “Wines often taste better at the winery for many reasons, including the scenery, but these (Whitecliff ’s) wines were even more impressive with food.” Perhaps for that reason, Whitecliff wines are served at some of the best restaurants in the area, including the DePuy Canal House, the Culinary Institute of America, The Gramercy Tavern, and Peter Kelly’s Xavier’s, Restaurant X and X20.

GAMAY NOIR PINOT NOIR MERLOT CABERNET FRANC SKY ISLAND RED (Bordeaux blend)

SPARKLING WINE PORT

HYBRID/BLENDS AWOSTING WHITE REDTAIL TRAMINETTE MOUNTAIN LAUREL WHITE

We have dedicated more than 30 years to finding and planting grape varieties that succeed on our Hudson Valley site and will produce wines we are proud of. The driveway approach to our Tasting Room brings visitors through the heart of our vineyard. In the fall the vines will be covered with grapes, and draped with netting for protection from birds and deer. In spring the drive is past tiny soft green leaves and buds. Summer brings full foliage, and winter bare canes and pruning. Whatever the season, visitors will see what’s going on in one of the biggest vineyards in the Hudson Valley, and by the time they reach the Tasting Room will understand our serious commitment to viticulture.

PHOTOS: Tom Ligamari

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HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

MEET THE WINEMAKERS Husband and wife team Michael Migliore and Yancey Stanforth-Migliore started Whitecliff from scratch. From planting the vines to construction of the tasting room, they have done much of the work with their own hands. The Migliores take particular pride in being part of a vanguard of innovators, who have worked to add European wine grapes, high quality new hybrids, and complex, European-style wines to the Valley’s traditional focus on fruit wines and sweet wines. Winemaker and vineyard manager, Michael Migliore brings the rigorous approach of a chemist and engineer to Whitecliff. With a Masters in Chemistry from SUNY New Paltz, and many years as a process engineer in semiconductor manufacturing, Michael applied his background in science to teaching himself the chemistry and art of winemaking. He works closely with Cornell Cooperative Extension testing new grape varieties, and pushing the envelope on the quality of grape growing in the region. In that capacity he also serves as president of the Hudson Valley Wine and Grape Growers Association. Yancey Stanforth-Migliore manages sales and the Tasting Room. Her previous work at regional environmental organization, Scenic Hudson, and for the National Campaign for Sustainable Agriculture, inspires her focus on Whitecliff as a family business that keeps land in farming, strengthens the region’s agricultural roots, and produces a unique, natural product that makes people happy.


IN THE SPOTLIGHT C H A R D O N N AY !

Last summer, Whitecliff ’s 2011 Reserve Chardonnay won Gold, and Best Chardonnay on the East Coast, in the Atlantic Seaboard Competition. THIS year you can stop in to taste three different styles of our fine Chardonnays: our barrel-fermented Reserve; our steel-fermented Chardonnay; and a new approach, steel-fermented, with malolactic fermentation to combine that buttery quality with a lighter wine.

THE ESSENTIALS

We’ve completed our new green winery building just in time for the 2011 crush! Its geothermal cooling and heating system is particularly appropriate for wine processing and storage, since we will be working with the year-round underground temperature of 54 degrees – just the temperature for storage of happy wine!

PRODUCTION 5,500 cases

ADDRESS 331 McKinstry Road gardiner, NY 12525

OWNERS/MANAGERS Michael and Yancey Migliore

PHONE 845-255-4613 EMAIL yancey@whitecliffwine.com WEBSITE www.whitecliffwine.com OPEN 11:30am–5:30pm CLOSED January: Weekdays Feb–May, Nov–Dec:Tues/Wed TASTING FEES $7 

GETTING HERE FROM THE NYS THRUWAY (RT. 87): Exit 18, New Paltz. Turn left onto Route 299. Drive through the town, across the Wallkill River and bear left onto County Route 7 at the fork after Wallkill view Farm. Stay on Route 7 for 7.9 miles and turn left onto Route 7A, McKinstry Road. Whitecliff is .8 miles along on the right.

ULSTER

W H I T EC L I F F ' S N E W BUILDING!

VINEYARD WHITECLIFF vINEYARD

WINEMAKER Michael Migliore

EVENTS For a complete list of events check our website Sept 22–23 A Match Made in Heaven A tasting of artisanal Hudson valley cheese and wine. What’s going on in the world of cheesemaking in the Hudson valley? Explore the answer to that question at this weekend tasting. Cheeses have been chosen for  sampling specifically to present a broad experience of what’s being made in the valley today, from hard to soft, from goat, cow and sheep’s milk, to a variety of farm locations. 

TOURS By appointment ACREAGE 26 acres

www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012

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MILLBROOK VINEYARDS & WINERY

ABOUT US

Established 1985

MILLBROOK VINEYARDS & WINERY was founded in 1981 by John S. Dyson, former Deputy Mayor for Economic Development in New York City, as well as former New York State Commissioner of Commerce and Agriculture. It was the first vineyard in the Hudson River Region of New York dedicated exclusively to the production of vinifera grapes. Dyson started growing grapes by planting an experimental acre of vinifera grapes at his family farm in Millbrook. In 1979, he purchased a former dairy farm and converted the 1940s-era barn into an efficiently designed modern winery. Millbrook Winery’s first commercial vintage was in 1985 and today it produces over 14,000 cases of wine a year. Of the estate’s 130 acres, 30 are now planted with grapes. Approximately half of the vineyard is planted with Chardonnay, and the remainder consists of Tocai Friulano, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Franc. Some of Millbrook’s most highly regarded wines include the New York State appellation and the Proprietor’s Special Reserve versions of Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, and Pinot Noir. When the growing season allows, Millbrook also produces three vineyard designate wines in very limited quantities – our Block Two West Chardonnay, Castle Hill Chardonnay, Block Five East Pinot Noir and Block Three East Cabernet Franc. Millbrook Winery is located in a renovated Dutch hip dairy barn that has a magnificent view of the vineyards, Catskill Mountains, and rolling hills of Dutchess County. Millbrook stays true to its goal of producing wines of the highest caliber by uniting state-of-the-art viticulture with classical French and Italian winemaking techniques, including barrel aging and malolactic fermentation. Essential to the Millbrook Wine Experience is an informative and enriching guided tour of the winery, which will leave you with an insider’s view of the entire winemaking process, from the careful tending of the vineyards to the winemaker’s art of vinification. Each tour is capped off with a complete and informative tasting of current vintage Millbrook wines.

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HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

VA R I E TA L S TOCAI FRIULANO PROPRIETOR’S SPECIAL RESERVE TOCAI FRIULANO LOLLIPOP HILL UNOAKED CHARDONNAY CHARDONNAY CHARDONNAY PROPRIETOR’S SPECIAL RESERVE BLOCK TWO WEST CHARDONNAY HUNT COUNTRY WHITE HUNT COUNTRY ROSÉ HUNT COUNTRY RED PINOT NOIR PINOT NOIR PROPRIETOR’S SPECIAL RESERVE BLOCK FIVE EAST PINOT NOIR CABERNET FRANC CABERNET FRANC PROPRIETOR’S SPECIAL RESERVE BLOCK THREE EAST CABERNET FRANC

MEET THE OWNER & WINEMAKER John Dyson’s initial wine investment began in 1979 when John Dyson initiated several viticultural experiments using various varieties, rootstocks and trellising techniques at his Millbrook property. From one acre of vineyard in 1979 to over 1,000 today, Mr. Dyson owns and operates four separate properties: Millbrook Vineyards & Winery in the Hudson Valley, NY: Villa Pillo Estate in Tuscany, Italy; Williams & Selyem in Sonoma County, CA; and Pebble Ridge Vineyards in the North Central Coast region of California comprising of Vista Verde vineyard. John Graziano is the Vice President and Winemaker at Millbrook Vineyards & Winery. John was born and raised in Rye, NY, and attended Cornell University where he studied Fruit Crop Production, including courses in chemistry and viticulture. Cornell’s proximity to the vineyards of the Finger Lakes gave John the excuse to indulge his interest in wine. He graduated from Cornell University in 1981, with degrees in Plant Pathology and Entomology. In 1984, he was asked by John Dyson to be the opening winemaker for Millbrook Vineyards, and he has remained the only winemaker at the winery since its establishment.


IN THE SPOTLIGHT R E S E RV E TAST I N G S

Our Reserve Wine Tastings are now offered daily on the hour from 1:00– 4:00p.m. The cost is $25 per person ($20 for Case Club members). Taste through a collection of five of our favorite Estate grown and bottled wines along with Pinot Noir from our sister winery, Williams Selyem. Explore the best of the Hudson River Region, California’s Russian River Valley and Central Coast Regions together in this delightful line-up.

DUTCHESS

THE ESSENTIALS

Thanks to our recent purchase of a EuroCave, Millbrook is also now offering an expanded “Wine By The Glass” menu, featuring eight Reserve wines in addition to the wines currently available from the Portfolio Sampler Tasting. Each of these Reserve wines featured in the EuroCave are available by the glass as well as available for single tastes. Our new pay-per-taste option allows guests to try Reserve wines on the list of their choosing as single samples. A great way to explore the upper tier of the Millbrook Portfolio one sip at a time!

GETTING HERE FROM TACONIC STATE PARKWAY: Taconic State Parkway to Millbrook/ Poughkeepsie/Rt. 44 exit. Take Rt. 44 East one mile to Rt. 82 North. Follow Rt. 82 North 3 miles to Rt. 57 (Shunpike Rd). Take a right on Rt. 57 and follow 3 miles. Take a left on Wing Road. Millbrook Winery is the second driveway on the right.

VINEYARD MILLBROOK vINEYARDS & WINERY

PRODUCTION 14,000 cases

ADDRESS 26 Wing Road Millbrook, NY 12545

OWNER John S. Dyson

PHONE 845-677-8383 FAX 845-677-6186

MANAGER David H. Bova WINEMAKER John graziano

EMAIL millbrookwinery@millwine.com

EVENTS Aug 18 Aug 31

WEBSITE www.millbrookwine.com

Oct 13

OPEN 12pm–5pm, seven days a week Memorial Day  –Labor Day: 11am–6pm

Oct 13 Nov 17

Jazz at the vineyard grille, 5–7pm Once in a Blue Moon BBq &  Blues, 6–10pm Winegrower’s Boot Camp – Session 5 22nd Annual Harvest Party grand Portfolio Tasting

CLOSED Thanksgiving, Christmas,  New Year’s Day, Easter TASTING FEES $10 for Portfolio Tasting $25 for Reserve Tasting

TOURS Included with tastings ACREAGE 130 acre estate, 30 planted with vines

www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012

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HUDSON-CHATHAM WINERY

ABOUT US

Established 2006

THE HUDSON-CHATHAM WINERY was started by Carlo and Dominique DeVito when they acquired their property in 2006. The last remaining 14 acres of the former 500-acre Brisklea Farms dairy in Ghent, in Columbia County, with rolling hills that afford views stretching from the Catskills to the Berkshires, the DeVitos knew when they first stepped onto the land that it was where they wanted to be.

WINES S E Y VA L B L A N C RIESLING GHENT BLUSH LINDENWALD WHITE

They planted 1,000 vines in 2006 – a combination of Seyval Blanc, Muscat, Chancellor, and DeChaunac – and became instant farmers. They now have an additional 1,000 vines planted, mostly Baco Noir, but also Chelois, Burdin, and some other hybrids. A tasting room was constructed in early 2007, and the Hudson-Chatham Winery opened its doors in September that year. This fall marks their fifth anniversary! To get started, they tapped into their extensive knowledge of the wines and winemakers of New York State to develop and bring in grapes and blend wines they could fashion under their Hudson-Chatham label. They also established a Paperbirch label for fortified dessert wines, and have a line of distinctive port-style wines, a lovely cassis, and a multiple award-winning sherry. In January 2012, the winery expanded its production area to accommodate additional tanks, and to create a designated area for bottling, labeling, and storage. When this was completed, it allowed them to expand their tasting room into the adjacent building.

HUDSON RIVER VALLEY RED CABERNET FRANC MERLOT BACO NOIR EMPIRE RED BLANC DE BLANC POMME BULLE Hard apple cider

PAPERBIRCH

– Highlands Raspberry Ruby – Palladian White – Bannerman’s Castle Amber Cream

In addition to the wines, Hudson-Chatham produces a line of its own 100% natural maple syrups under the Sugarmaker’s Reserve label, a distinctive black currant “caviar,” several cheeses, and other gourmet items.

HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

Carlo, Dominique, Dawson & Dylan DeVito, along with Ralph Cooley, crush, blend, and bottle the wines. Longtime NYS grape expert Steve Casscles is the winemaker. Ralph’s grandparents were the owners of Brisklea Farms for six decades. Carlo is the author of East Coast Wineries: The Complete Guide from Maine to Virginia (Rutgers Univ. Press), and is the publisher of www.eastcoastwineries.blogspot.com, a highly-acclaimed wine blog featuring news, reviews, and interviews concerning East Coast wines. The DeVitos are also founding members of the Hudson Berkshire Beverage Trail (www.hudsonberkshireexperience.com).

– Highlands Fine Ruby

Though relatively new, the Hudson-Chatham Winery has – Cassis notched many distinctive awards for its wines, consistently winning medals from the Hudson Valley Wine & Grape Association, at the New York Food & Wine Classic, the New York State Fair, and the Dallas Morning News Wine Competition. Their reds have received scores in the high 80s from Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast magazines. In summer 2012, their 2010 Baco Noir Reserve Casscles Vineyard won a prestigious Double Gold medal from the NY State Fair Wine Competition – the only Hudson Valley wine to do so.

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MEET THE WINEMAKERS

The Hudson-Chatham Winery was voted “The Capital Region’s Best Local Winery” by Capital Region Living Magazine in 2011 and 2012!


COLUMBIA

IN THE SPOTLIGHT H U D S O N R I V E R VA L L E Y R E D

This has always been one of the most popular wines produced by HudsonChatham Winery. For 2012, the Hudson River Valley Red combines Baco Noir, Chelois, Léon Millot, Marechal Foch, and Merlot made in a ripasto style (Italian and Spanish style), meaning it combines grapes (some of which have already been pressed once before) to add flavor, texture, and complexity. It is a light-bodied red, with bright cherry and vanilla aromas. The wine was aged in French oak for six months. It is a great food wine, with bright acidity and medium tannins.

THE ESSENTIALS

Every year the Hudson-Chatham Winery chooses a new painting form the Hudson River School of Painting for the label to its flagship table red. This year’s label celebrates the Hudson River Sloop with one of the Hudson River’s most famous painters, Francis Augustus Silva, who painted dozens and dozens of canvases featuring the majestic Hudson River.

GETTING HERE FROM NYS THRUWAY (RT. 87): Exit 21, and make a left at the stop light onto Rt. 23B. Take Rt. 23 East over the Rip van Winkle Bridge, and follow signs for Hudson. Make a right onto Warren St., and follow through town. At intersection, make a left onto Rt. 66, and follow for 8 miles. FROM THE TACONIC STATE PARKWAY: Take the exit for Chatham/Austerlitz, Rt. 203, toward Chatham. At the intersection of  Rts. 203 and 66, make a left onto Rt. 66, towards ghent/Hudson. The winery is about 5 miles from the intersection on the right.

VINEYARD HuDSON-CHATHAM WINERY

OWNERS Carlo and Dominique Devito

ADDRESS 1900 State Route 66 ghent, NY 12075

MANAGERS Carlo and Dominique Devito

PHONE 518-392-WINE (9463) EMAIL info@hudson-chathamwinery.com WEBSITE www.hudson-chathamwinery.com OPEN Year-round, Friday–Sunday:  12pm–5:00pm, with additional  summer and holiday hours CLOSED Monday–Thursday, but open  by appointment TASTING FEES $5.00 includes glass TOURS Occasional

WINEMAKERS Carlo Devito, Steve Casscles,  Ralph Cooley EVENTS (check website for updated listings) Seasonal Wine Dinners (call or check website for more info) Oct 27 Hallo-Wine Join us for treats – and tricks – on this special Saturday! Come in a costume. Nov 3–4 Hudson Berkshire Beverage Trail Holidays on the Hudson event. Purchase a Trail Passport for special tastings at all 5 venues on the HBB Trail. Nov 17 5th Annual Bread, Wine & Cheese Festival, where we celebrate (and sample) select locally produced breads and cheeses to complement the wines. Dec 29–30 Bubbly Beginnings & Endings Toast an end to the old year and the beginning of the new year with a complementary sparkling wine cocktail. Happy New Year!

ACREAGE 14 acres total, about 5 acres planted PRODUCTION 4,000 cases

www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012

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TOUSEY WINERY

ABOUT US

Established 2006

SITUATED IN CLERMONT, NY, in the historic Hudson Valley, we are a boutique winery with a relentless drive to produce local, quality wine. Even though we’re relatively new – the winery was born in 2006 – we have come a long way toward reaching our goal. Lenn Thompson, the Executive Editor of the New York Cork Report (NYCR) wrote this in January 2012: ‘"It's hard not to consider Tousey Winery a major player in the resurgence of quality wine in Hudson Valley.” We have a broad portfolio of wines, from the proprietary white blend, the Queen of Clermont to our Estate Bottled Riesling. In terms of reds we have a delightful Pinot Noir accompanying the Hudson Valley Red Wine of the Year (as nominated by the team at the New York Cork Report) – the 2010 Cabernet Franc. When it comes to our vineyard, we couldn’t have wished for anything better. Overlooking the Hudson River and the Catskill Mountains, the panorama is outstanding. In total we have 15 acres of Chardonnay, Riesling and Pinot Noir under production. And it would be churlish of us not to share it. Therefore, we hold private tastings and events at the vineyard throughout the year.

WINES QUEEN OF CLERMONT REBELLION (Ro s é)

CHARDONNAY Our popular Tasting Room, conveniently nestled in the Blue Roof right on Route 9 in Germantown, is the perfect spot to come in, relax and enjoy our wines in a stylish, intimate, candle-lit space. We also sell organic honey, handmade soaps and even local artwork. We’re open throughout the year, every Friday, Saturday and Sunday.

ESTATE CHARDONNNAY (New fo r 2012)

RIESLING CABERNET FRANC

Behind the tasting room? A brand new winemaking facility now stands to ensure we meet our high standards of wine quality.

CRÉME DE CASSIS

Trying to find us but can’t get to the tasting room? Catch us at farmer’s markets in Kingston and Rhinebeck, and at special events throughout the Hudson Valley. We’re also proud to be featured in a number of the area’s top restaurants and wine shops. Check out our Tousey Map at www.touseywiney.com for more details. If you’re getting the picture that we’re a lot of different things in one, you’re right. We’re eclectic and passionate. . . but most of all, we’re delicious, top-quality wine you can have right here in the Hudson Valley.

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HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

MEET THE OWNER & WINEMAKERS Winemaker: Since Ben Peacock took over the reins at Tousey Winery early in 2010, he has produced numerous wines to critical acclaim. Most notably the 2010 Cabernet Franc awarded the Hudson Valley Red Wine of the Year by the team at NYCR and the 2010 Pinot Noir, given 90pts by Snooth. Ben was first attracted to the business end of the wine industry, but this soon developed into a more hands-on approach by making the wines full time – in addition to running the business! Winemaking team: To ensure we deliver to our high standards, Tousey Winery has the pleasure of working with Peter Bell and Tricia Renshaw as consulting winemakers. They bring with them over 30 years of winemaking experience. Bruce Tripp, a Hudson Valley native and Vice President of the Hudson Valley Wine & Grape Association, completes the team. Owners: Daughter and son-in-law, Kimberly and Ben Peacock joined the family business with founder Ray Tousey in early 2010. Since then, the entire winery operation has been upgraded to match our high standards of wine quality.


COLUMBIA

IN THE SPOTLIGHT THE QUEEN OF CLERMONT

This is your Queen. She will do her utmost to administer an aromatic nose; furnish you with a wonderfully light and refreshing mid-palate, with notes of lime and melon. And in her wisdom, provide a hint of sweetness to meet all tastes. Serve at royal banquets, state dinners and with all other foods… there is only one Queen. RIESLING 2011

Estate bottled. Sandalwood, apricot and peach delight the nose on this complex, estate bottled Riesling. On the palate, richness and a refreshing acidity deliver a lasting finish.

THE ESSENTIALS

CA B E R N E T F R A N C 2 0 1 0

Hudson Valley Red Wine of the Year – NYCR. Our Cabernet Franc displays dark fruit on the nose with great depth on the palate. Supple tannins rounded by a touch of oak provide a satisfying finish. P I N OT N O I R 2 0 1 0

90pts – Snooth. Matured in French oak barrels, this delectable Pinot Noir reveals flavors of strawberries and black cherries. A warm, smooth and elegant example of this classic varietal. C R È M E D E CASS I S

Grown on the estate along with honey from our very own bees, our Cassis is a blend of four varieties of black currants. Uniquely, the honey is used to balance the Cassis against the currant to give a bold and fragrant flavor.

VINEYARD TOuSEY WINERY

OWNER Ray Tousey

ADDRESS 1774 Route 9 germantown, NY 12526

MANAGER Ben Peacock

PHONE 518-567-5462 FAX 518-537-6832 EMAIL info@touseywinery.com WEBSITE www.touseywinery.com OPEN Friday,12pm–8pm Saturday–Sunday,12pm–5pm CLOSED Monday–Thursday TASTING FEES $5.00 ACREAGE Over 16 acres

WINEMAKER Bruce Tripp EVENTS (check website for updated listings) Aug 19 Farm, Food & Music Festival

Clermont State Park, 4pm–dusk

GETTING HERE FROM NYS THRUWAY (RT. 87): Exit 21 Catskill and take Rt. 23 East over the Rip van Winkle Bridge. Take the Rt. 9g South ramp. Turn slight right onto 9g South/ Rhinebeck-Hudson Rd. Turn left onto  CR-10. Turn right onto CR-31/Blue Hill Rd. Turn right onto uS-9. Tousey Winery is located within the Blue Roof market on  Rt. 9, 45 minutes north of Poughkeepsie and 1 hour south of Albany.

PRODUCTION 1,500 cases

www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012

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BROOKVIEW STATION WINERY

ABOUT US

Established 2006

WONDERFULLY SWEEPING VISTAS of the Catskill and Helderburg Mountains are the scenic backdrop for the Brookview Station Winery at Goold Orchards, Rensselaer County’s first winery. Our mission at the Brookview Station Winery is to craft the best Hudson River Valley wines, using the finest fruits and grapes grown at our family farm and from other Hudson Valley family farms. In doing so we acknowledge the vital economic impact of agriculture in the Hudson Valley and we honor those who work tirelessly to preserve “the Valley’s” tradition of family farming. The Goold Orchard story began in April of 1910 when James and Bertha Goold arrived by rail at a small train station in Brookview NY, the Brookview Station. Together they walked a mile to the farm they had recently purchased. Bertha, educated at Emma Willard in Troy and husband James, a recent graduate from Cornell were eager to apply the latest in agricultural technologies on their new fruit farm. In 1933 after James’ sudden death, Bertha was left to keep the farm going with help from her 17-year-old son Robert. “Bob” and later his wife Marcia (Sue’s parents) continued to work and grow the family fruit farm into what is the present day Goold Orchards.

WINES WHISTLE STOP WHITE OH, WHAT A PEAR POMONA SUNSET CHARLIE ROSÉ

As Hudson Berkshire Beverage Trail members, we invite you to get a jump start on your holiday gift giving at “Holidays Along the Hudson,” the third passport event along the Trail, this November 3rd and 4th. Guests will be treated to samplings of wine, cheeses and local treats of all kinds. Passports are just $20.00 and may be purchased at any of our tasting rooms.

BACO NOIR JUST PEACHY STRAWBERRY SUNRISE SCARLOT TA BING THE CONDUCTOR’S CASSIS THE PORTER’S PORT

Our mission at the Brookview Station Winery is to craft the best Hudson River Valley wines, using the finest fruits and grapes grown at our family farm.

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HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

The vineyard is growing again! After the weather of this past “winter that wasn’t ” we couldn’t wait for the planting season to come. Late this spring we expanded the vineyard to the front of the farm, planting 240 Marquette grape vines. Marquette is a newer red wine grape that was developed as a cold climate grape in Minnesota in 1989. It was developed by crossing a French Hybrid cultivar Ravat 262 with a Minnesota varietal. Ravat likewise has a complex background, but has the renowned variety Pinot Noir as one parent.

ALL ABOARD RED MERLOT

Third generation owners Sue Goold Miller and her husband Edward Miller expanded the farm again, and in 2006 opened the Brookview Station Winery, aptly named to honor her grandparents and founders, James and Bertha Goold.

MEET THE WINEMAKERS

“The Porter’s Port,” a dark cherry port continues to improve with age. This rich blend of dark sweet and sour cherries has notes of vanilla along with hints of charred oak. With great reviews and several wine medals to its credit, this port is truly delectable. “I was recently asked what my personal favorite out of our 12 wines was. I didn’t need to think but a second to know “The Conductor’s Cassis” is my personal favorite. I really enjoy it. Conductor’s sweetness is balanced just perfectly with the tart of the black currant. The flavor just doesn’t quit. The girls like to say ‘It’s decadent’ and I think they’ve got this one just right.” (Ed Miller)


RENSSELAER

IN THE SPOTLIGHT T H E C O N D U C TO R ’S CASS I S

Rich, complex and wonderfully decadent. An exquisite black currant cordial handcrafted in the traditional style of French artisanal winemakers. B AC O N O I R

A beautiful blending of new world wine and old world style. A soft, medium bodied red wine that hints of cherries, plum and spices. T H E P O RT E R ’S P O RT

A mélange of delectable Hudson Valley cherries fermented and barrel-aged to perfection. Its rich dark cherry notes are nicely blended with a toasty oak finish.

THE ESSENTIALS

W H I ST L E STO P W H I T E

“2007 Best Hudson River Region Wine.” Semi-Dry Apple Wine. A subtle essence of apple is all that lingers behind its smooth sweet-tart finish. Estate Bottled. O H W H AT A P E A R

Semi-Dry Pear Wine. This light, fruity wine is surprisingly complex and long on finish. Estate Bottled. A L L A B OA R D

A dry, medium-bodied red table wine blended with a touch of Noiret for a smooth, lightly-spiced finish. ST R AW B E R RY S U N R I S E

VINEYARD BROOKvIEW STATION WINERY

PRODUCTION 2,500–3,500 cases

ADDRESS 1297 Brookview Station Road  Castleton-on-Hudson, NY 12033

OWNER Sue goold Miller and Ed Miller

PHONE Toll-free: 1-88-TO-uNCORK WEBSITE www.brookviewstationwinery.com OPEN Jan– Aug: Mon–Sat, 10am–5pm  Sept–Dec: Daily, 9am–5:30pm CLOSED New Years Day, Easter,  Memorial Day, Independence Day, Thanksgiving, Christmas TASTING FEES $6.00–$8.00 Private/group Tastings – Price varies Available by appointment only

Strawberry Wine. As sweet as a June morn, this wine is “Just-Picked Perfect.” Hudson River Region.

TOURS Not available

GETTING HERE

ACREAGE 125 total acres; 80 acres are currently under fruit production

MANAGER Karen gardy WINEMAKER Sue goold Miller and Ed Miller EVENTS (Updates at www.goold.com or follow us on Facebook.com/brookviewstationwinery)

Labor Day Weekend Apple Picking Season Opens

Sept 7–8 Meet us at the Hudson Valley Wine Fest, Dutchess Fairgrounds, Rhinebeck

Sept 15 Wine, Women & Song. Making

strides Against Breast Cancer Fundraiser. Tickets at www.gooldwine.com Sept 29 Radio Disney Kids Day featuring Talia Denis Concert  Oct 6–7 24th Annual Apple Festival & Craft Show, with ILNY Wine Tent Oct 13 The Muttville Comix Dog Show Oct 20 Halloween Pets on Parade, 2pm Nov 3–4 Holidays Along the Hudson, HBBT Passport Event

CHECK WEBSITE FOR DIRECTIONS: www.brookviewstationwinery.com

www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012

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CATSKILL DISTILLING COMPANY

ABOUT US

Established 2009

IF YOU ASK DISTILLER Monte Sachs to show you around the Catskill Distilling Company, what you’ll get is half tour, half chemistry lesson. But what is clear, aside from the spirits running through the beautiful, copper stills, is his passion for distilling. It’s a passion you taste in every bottle of Catskill Distilling Company spirits. Located moments from the site of the original Woodstock Music Festival (now Bethel Woods Center for the Performing Arts), the Catskill Distilling Company honors the rich history of the Sullivan County Catskills – a unique blend of tradition and revolution. The Catskill Distilling Company’s inaugural bottle, Peace Vodka, is a wheat vodka distinctive for both its complexity and refinement. A delicate balance that reminds you why smaller is better and that there is no substitute for passion. Summer 2012 saw the introduction of Curious Gin, Wicked White Whiskey and Most Righteous Bourbon. The water is from the Catskill Mountains, and the grains, purchased at a nearby mill, are returned as mash to a nearby farm to feed a herd of red stag. From the locally-grown grains to fruit from local orchards and botanicals grown on site, the Catskill Distillery embodies the spirit of the farm distillery and demonstrates a strong commitment to the local agricultural community. The custom-made copper stills, the work of master European craftsmen, were designed to accommodate a variety of distillation techniques. They are a work of art that serve as the backdrop to the tasting room at the Catskill Distillery. There, you can sample the spirits at the elegant art deco bar from the 1939 World’s Fair in Flushing, Queens. The Catskill Distilling Company is not just a distillery; it’s a destination. And its commitment is not just to the agricultural community, but to the community of artists and musicians who call the Hudson Valley home.

PRODUCTS CATSKILL MOUNTAIN PEACE VODKA CURIOUS GIN MOST RIGHTEOUS BOURBON WICKED WHITE WHISKEY

AND AS OF YET UNNAMED: WHEAT WHISKEY RYE WHISKEY BUCKWHEAT WHISKEY

Step outside the Distillery, and you’ll find the Dancing MUSCAT GRAPPA Cat Saloon. Live music, good food and a relaxed atmosphere are the principles on which the Dancing Cat was built. Inside the restored turn of the century Victorian is an array of fantastic carvings, paintings, and photographs by a variety of local artists. July 2012 saw the newest addition to the Catskill Distilling Company family – the opening of the Stray Cat Gallery. Here, the work of local artists is on display. Paintings, photographs, pottery, and sculpture, all by local artists, adorn the walls, halls and mantles in the recently renovated 1830s farmhouse and the fields surrounding the distillery.

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HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

MEET THE DISTILLER Monte Sachs grew up on a dairy farm in Coastal Connecticut. After graduating from the University of New Hampshire School of Agriculture, he attended veterinary school at the University of Pisa. While studying veterinary medicine, he traveled throughout Italy and learned the art of distilling traditional grappa from an 80 year-old farmworker named Bernardino. This was the beginning of Monte’s appreciation and study of distillation. With the passage of the New York State Farm Distillery bill, Monte decided to turn his attention from the practice of equine medicine to the art of fine distillation – and so began the planning of the Catskill Distilling Company. Whether it is grain or fruit-based distillates, whiskies, vodkas, grappas, fruit brandies, or gin, you can always find Monte in the distillery working late into the night on new projects.


DISTILLERY

IN THE SPOTLIGHT CATS K I L L M O U N TA I N P E AC E VO D KA

Distinctive for its smoothness and delicate flavor, Peace Vodka recently came in first place and earned a double-gold medal from The Fifty Best during their annual domestic vodka competition.

CURIOUS GIN

This perfect combination of exotic botanicals and local juniper berries has created a handcrafted gin that is intriguingly different and uncommonly sophisticated.

THE ESSENTIALS DISTILLERY CATSKILL DISTILLINg COMPANY ADDRESS 2037 Route 17B Bethel, NY 12720

WICKED WHITE WHISKEY

This devilishly different, un-aged whiskey is unusually smooth and full of local grain flavor – a tribute to our fearless forefathers who defied Prohibition.

M O ST R I G H T EO U S BOURBON

We’ve taken the best of Kentucky know-how and mixed it with New York ingenuity to produce our first, limited release aged spirit – a smooth, beautifully spicy, brilliant bronze bourbon.

PHONE 845-583-8569 EMAIL info@catskilldistilling.com WEBSITE www.catskilldistilling.com OPEN Year-round Fri, Sat and Sun: Noon–7pm  or by appointment  Mon, Tues, Wed, Thurs: Hours vary,   call for an appointment TOURS Yes ACREAGE 30 acres

DISTILLER Dr. Monte Sachs

EVENTS For more on events and music check the website.

GETTING HERE FROM NYC AND WESTCHESTER: Take NYS Thruway (I-87) North to Exit 16 (Harriman). Proceed onto Route 17 (I-86) West to Exit 104 heading west on Route 17B. Travel approximately 9 miles on Route 17B. The Distillery is on the left.   FROM ALBANY AND MASSACHUSETTS: Take the NYS Thruway (I-87) to Exit 19 toward Rt-28/Kingston/Rhinecliff Bridge. Take the 1st exit onto NY-28 North at the traffic circle. Merge onto uS-209 South toward Ellenville and travel approximately 38 miles. Turn right onto Route 17 (I-86) West. Take Exit 104 heading west on Route 17B. Travel approximately 9 miles on Route 17B. The Distillery is on the left. 

PRODUCTION 6,000 cases/year OWNER Dr. Monte Sachs and Stacy Cohen

www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012

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HARVEST SPIRITS

ABOUT US

Established 2006

LOCATED ON A FAMILY APPLE FARM in the fertile Hudson Valley, Harvest Spirits benefits by having all of our ingredients grown steps from our doorstep. Our third-generation apple farm benefits by having a new market for our cider apples and increased traffic to our retail farm store. Harvest Spirits and Golden Harvest Farms work closely with several local farms. We promote strong ties among our local farmers and share information readily, from tree to bottle.

MEET THE DISTILLER

Our small distillery is a very modern work of art. Though it can only distill one hundred gallons at a time, it is flexible and precise enough to create virtually any kind of liquor, from gin and whiskey to exotics like cachaça, agave spirits and medicinal bitters. Apples offer us the perfect component and a unique opportunity to control our process from harvesting all natural ingredients to triple distilling our vodka in our custom-designed German still.

Derek Grout is a third-generation apple farmer and the distiller at Harvest Spirits. He is actively in charge of the distillery and all aspects of the distilling process, as well as product development. Derek’s responsibilities range from designing product packaging and website development to scrubbing tanks and promoting the products.

We focus primarily on vodka, and every drop in every bottle of Core Vodka is meticulously and passionately hand-crafted using nothing but the apples grown steps from our distillery, and filtered water, to create a vodka with a smoother, softer spirit and an authentic flavor. The final result – vodka that greets your mouth with a rich, buttery start and leaves your palette with a subtle hint of its fruit origin.

A graduate of Cornell University, Derek began his career as a graphic designer in Boston, MA. After a spending too much time in front of his computer, he decided to return to his roots.

The creation of our Pear Brandy is a collaboration between three local fruit farms. Surprisingly dry, our unaged, unsweetened brandy is a perfect expression of fruit. We capture the full flavor of ripe barlett pears by fermenting whole, crushed pears (instead of pear juice). Although much more difficult to make with whole fruit, our brandy is worth the effort. Big, bold pear aromas in the bouquet develop into a rich mouthfeel and finish with a surprisingly smooth satisfaction.

In 2003, Derek moved back to the family apple farm in the Hudson Valley to help his father and to learn the family business of growing apples. Mr. Grout continues to help on the farm, when he’s not in the distillery.

Inspired by French eau-de-vie (water of life), our apple brandy was born a year after the success of our pear brandy. Similar in style to our pear brandy, our apple brandy is made from fresh fruit grown in the Hudson Valley. This respectable spirit endeavors to embody the fragrance and velvety texture of fresh apples. Since colonial times, traditional applejack was made by freezing barrels of hard cider during the long winter months, then tapping and removing the alcoholic center. This was a powerful and harsh liquor, since it concentrated all of the alcohols – both good and bad. We carefully distill our Cornelius Applejack three times, offering a smoother, more satisfying take on this American classic. Carefully distilled and rested in premium bourbon barrels, Cornelius Applejack is made from 100% Hudson Valley apples, homegrown on our 200-acre fruit farm. Each bottle is made from over 60 lbs. of fresh apples grown steps from our distillery. We invite you to come in for a tour and taste some of our latest creations.

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HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

PRODUCTS CORE VODKA CORNELIUS APPLEJACK PEAR BRANDY APPLE BRANDY


DISTILLERY

IN THE SPOTLIGHT G R A P PA

Notoriously hard to make, Grappa is an Italian spirit derived from the grape pressings. A local winemaker recently gave us a load of grape skins to experiment with. Instead of adding sugar and water to the skins, we fermented them by adding sweet cider to the must. Although this will not be considered a traditional grappa, the test trials reveal promising flavors of fresh, New York grapes.

THE ESSENTIALS

C O R E B L AC K R AS P B E R RY VO D KA

Our Black Raspberry flavored CORE Vodka is distilled from hand-picked black raspberries and apples grown at our farm. It is inspired by the German Himbeergeist but has a touch of the black raspberries’ juice added back in to create a clean and balanced vodka with a whisper of the fruit’s delicate flavor and color. Nothing artificial. No sugar added.

DISTILLERY HARvEST SPIRITS

OWNER Derek grout

ADDRESS 3074 uS Route 9 valatie, NY 12184

DISTILLER Derek grout

PHONE 518-253-5917 EMAIL info@harvestspirits.com WEBSITE www.harvestspirits.com OPEN Sat & Sun, 12–5pm  or by appointment TASTING FEES Complimentary TOURS Yes ACREAGE 200 acre apple farm PRODUCTION 750 cases 

EVENTS DISTILLING 101 : Learn how we make  our Core vodka, every weekend during  business hours

For a complete list of HudsonBerkshire Trail events visit: www.HudsonBerkshireExperience.com

GETTING HERE FROM ALBANY AREA: Take Interstate I-90 East to Exit 12. Continue on Rt. 9 South for four miles. Harvest Spirits is on the left. FROM NYS THRUWAY (RT. 87): Exit 21A for the Berkshire Extention. Follow to exit B1.Continue on Rt. 9 South for four miles. Harvest Spirits  is on the left.

www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012

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TUTHILLTOWN SPIRITS DISTILLERY

ABOUT US

Established 2003

BEFORE PROHIBITION more than 1,000 farm distillers produced alcohol from New York grains and fruits. Tuthilltown Spirits brings the tradition of small batch distillation back to the Hudson Valley, distilling whiskeys which were the first legally distilled and aged grain spirits produced in New York since Prohibition. New York’s first Bourbon is HUDSON BABY BOURBON, distilled from 100% New York corn. The handmade spirits, which start at the farm distillery as raw grain and fruit, are made without added flavor or color and are not chill or carbon filtered. For 220 years Tuthilltown Gristmill, a landmark which is listed on the National Register of Historic Places, used waterpower to render local grains to flour. In 2001 Ralph Erenzo and Vicki Morgan acquired the property and with the help of partner Brian Lee, they converted one of the mill granaries to a micro-distillery. Two and a half years later, Tuthilltown Spirits produced their first batches PRODUCTS of vodka from scraps they collected at a local apple slicing plant. HUDSON BABY

BOURBON Today, Tuthilltown Spirits distills vodkas from apples grown at orchards less than 5 miles away and whiskeys using grain harvested by farmers less than 10 miles away. The farm distillery also produces rum, eau de vie, brandy, absinthe, and infusions. Guests are welcome to stop in for tastings during store hours and tours are offered by appointment.

HUDSON FOUR GRAIN BOURBON HUDSON MANHAT TAN RYE HUDSON SINGLE MALT

Tuthilltown Spirits proudly celebrates the following HUDSON NEW YORK achievements: CORN WHISKEY 2012 American Distilling Institute Competition SPIRIT OF THE – Silver Medal, Hudson Four Grain Whiskey HUDSON VODKA – Bronze Medal, Hudson Baby Bourbon San Francisco World Spirits Competition HEART OF THE – Bronze Medal, Hudson Baby Bourbon H UDSON VODKA – Silver Medal, Hudson New York Corn Whiskey – Bronze Medal, Hudson Four Grain Bourbon ROGGEN’S RUM – Silver Medal, Hudson Manhattan Rye (aged in whiskey barrels) – Silver Medal, Hudson New York Single Malt TUTHILLTOWN 2011 San Francisco International Wine and Spirits CASSIS LIQUEUR Competition – Double Gold Medal, Hudson Baby Bourbon – Silver Medal, Hudson New York Corn Whiskey – Silver Medal, Hudson Four Grain Bourbon Craft Whiskey Distillery of the Year, Tuthilltown Spirits, Whisky Magazine Craft Whiskey of the Year, Hudson Four Grain Bourbon, Whisky Guild 2010 American Distillers Institute – American Artisan Distillery of the Year, Tuthilltown Spirits – Best Package Award, Hudson Manhattan Rye – Silver Medal, Bourbon, Hudson Four Grain Bourbon – Silver Medal, Rye, Hudson Manhattan Rye Best New American Whiskeys of the Year, Hudson Whiskeys, Food & Wine Magazine

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HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

MEET THE DISTILLERS Ralph Erenzo, Distiller, Partner Ralph brings 35 years of production and development experience to the distillery. Prior to starting Tuthilltown Spirits, his business ExtraVertical Inc. provided technical services to corporate and media clients for projects that required technical skills developed over his 25 year rock climbing career. Ralph built and managed New York City’s first public climbing gyms including The ExtraVertical Climbing Center on Broadway. His dream of a “climbers ranch” near the largest rock climbing area in the East were set aside in favor of producing high quality spirits. Ralph’s writing and commentary have been featured in national media including Op Ed columns for the New York Times. His work at the State level has resulted in the passage of the Farm Distillery Act which permits New York farms to establish distilleries on site and sell their agricultural spirits at the farm. Born and raised a New Yorker, he has realized a lifelong dream of settling in the Hudson Valley. His son Gabe manages production at the distillery. Brian Lee, Distiller, Partner Brian has designed and built the technical facilities for Tuthilltown Spirits. He is responsible for engineering and all technical aspects of fermentation and distillation for the company. Brian serves as CFO for the company. Prior to his work with Tuthilltown Spirits, Brian was a senior technical designer for a company building high-end broadcast television facilities. His clients included SKY LatinAmerica, CBS, and NBC. He served as the on-site technical consultant for ESPN’s conversion to High Definition Television (HDTV). Brian’s technical and mechanical skills ensure all the systems at the distillery continue to function and we are constantly on the search for more efficient methods. He is currently contemplating hydro and solar power as supplemental energy sources.


DISTILLERY

IN THE SPOTLIGHT B ATC H N U M B E R S

Each hand-made batch is truly unrepeatable. Call the tasting room to inquire about the distillers’ favorite batch numbers of the season. FA R M M A R K E TS

New laws allowing distilled spirits sales at farm markets will be passed soon! Please keep an eye out for Tuthilltown Spirits at the farm markets nearest you.

THE ESSENTIALS DISTILLERY TuTHILLTOWN SPIRITS DISTILLERY

ACREAGE 8 acres 

ADDRESS 14 grist Mill Lane gardiner, NY 12525

PRODUCTION 7,500 cases or less

PHONE 845-633-8734

GETTING HERE

EMAIL distillery@tuthilltown.com

FROM NORTH (ALBANY): Take NYS Thruway 87 South. Exit 18 for NY-299 toward New Paltz/Poughkeepsie. Turn left  at NY-299 W/Main St. Turn left at NY-32 S. Turn right at NY-55 W/u.S. 44 W/Main St. Turn left at Albany Post Rd/Co Rd 9. Make the 1st right onto Tuthilltown Rd. Take the 2nd left off of Tuthilltown Rd. at the Tuthilltown Spirits sign.

WEBSITE www.tuthilltown.com

FROM SOUTH (NYC): Take NYS Thruway 87 North. Exit 17 and follow signs for Route 300. Head North on Route 300. Turn left at NY-55 W/u.S. 44 W/Main St. Turn left at Albany Post Rd/Co Rd 9. Take the 1st right onto Tuthilltown Rd. Take the 2nd left off of Tuthilltown Rd. at the Tuthilltown Spirits sign.

TASTING FEES Tasting: $10 per person  Tasting & Tour: $15 per person

OPEN varies by season;  Open year round CLOSED varies by season;  Open year round

OWNER Ralph Erenzo and Brian Lee MANAGER Cathy Erenzo PRODUCTION MANAGER Joel Elder

EVENTS view our website for up-to-date listings of tastings and special events: tuthilltown.com/category/events

TOURS All weekends; Some weekdays  by reservation

gPS address: 14 gristmill Ln gardiner,  NY 12525

www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012

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BREWERIES OF THE HUDSON VALLEY

Coppersea Distilling LLC 1592 Broadway (Rte 9W) West Park, NY 12493 845-444-1044 www.coppersea.com

DUTCHESS COUNTY

Sloop Brewing Hudson Valley’s Nano Brewery www.sloopbrewing.com facebook.com/SloopBrewing

Winnerofthe2012 MatthewVassar Brewers'Cup

•BestCraftBrewery• intheHudsonValley from Tap NY, The largesT beer fesTival iN NYs

30 main street, Chatham, NY 518-697-0202 www.chathambrewing.com opeN saturday from 11am–5pm for TasTiNgs, growlers & swag

WINE AT NINE

NI NE E N I W AT

WHVW 950 am

DISTILLERY

ULSTER COUNTY

UNCORK A GOOD MORNING WITH LISA O. & HUDSON VALLEY WINE MAGAZINE TUNE IN THE 3RD THURSDAY OF THE MONTH

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HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

ho doesn’t enjoy a good beer now and then? There’s nothing like a frosty glass of ale to quench a thirst on a hot summer’s day, a satisfying lager after a hard day’s work, or warming up with rich, creamy stout on a chilly fall evening. But what makes craft brews more desirable and all the rage in the Hudson Valley right now? For starters, they’re fresh, full of flavor and you can taste their natural, most often local, ingredients. Plus, brewpubs are a fun place to hang out, especially when there’s a good food menu to complement your choice of beer.

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Although brewing dates back to the age of the first known civilization – the ancient Sumerians – many of us don’t realize how much of the process of going from grain to glass is dependent upon the brewmaster. Like wine, making beer depends on the personal preferences and experience of the maker, and in the case of craft breweries, the brewmaster’s penchant for experimentation is what establishes his or her own style and reputation. Unlike winemaking, though, a brewer can experiment more quickly with different flavors and ingredients, and even with fermentation practices (such as aging the beer in used wine or bourbon barrels, or letting the beer ferment right in the bottle) and the end result can be sampled in about 8 to 12 weeks. With winemaking, the process transpires over seasons, sometimes years. The basic ingredients – grain (such as barley), water, yeast, and hops, are a constant in beer making. A brewer will use hops in practically the same way a chef would use salt or pepper, to balance the sweetness of the malt. Specialty ingredients like herbs, spices, sweeteners, and fruit impart a subtle, yet unique flavor to the beer, and are used to create seasonal, sometimes signature styles. It’s interesting to note that although each brewer will use their own unique recipes, the same recipe can produce varying results from brewer to brewer, depending on the minerality of the water they use, where the ingredients come from, and how the grains are malted (hydrated), usually by an outside “maltster.” They say that variety is the spice of life, and with all the different styles and unique flavors of IPAs, ales, lagers, and stouts being crafted at the Hudson Valley breweries, you’ll want to be sure to stop in and taste what’s new on tap.


BREWERIES

HEAD TO HEAD with “Hutch” Kugeman

HVW: Let’s begin with a little background. How did you get started making beer? HUTCH: Actually, my mother bought me a home brew kit, so it all started as a hobby. After college, about 11 years ago, I was living in North Carolina teaching 7th grade science and social studies. Then one summer I got a seasonal job in Oregon as assistant brewmaster and was hooked. I moved to Lake Placid and became Head Brewer at Great Adirondack, then moved to the Ithaca Beer Company. Ithaca was a really large operation, so when I first met Ken [Landin] and Janine [Bennett] and they asked me if I could recommend a brewer for their new brewery in Athens, I thought, “Why not?”. HVW: So you’ve been with Crossroads since it opened ...when only part of the Opera House was renovated... HUTCH: Yeah, I moved to Athens when the brewhouse opened in 2010 and there was just a small tasting room. In 2011 they renovated the front room and opened the bar to the public, and just a month or so ago the kitchen opened. It’s been great to be part of the growth. HVW: Everyone has their favorite beer memory. When did you first discover your love of beer? HUTCH: Actually, my “lightbulb beer” moment was a good craft beer I discovered in 1997 when I was living in Oregon called Mirror Pond Pale Ale from Deschutes Brewery. It has a really hop-forward nose and hop flavor which is funny because I have an older brother who used to brew at home when we were growing up, and I used to hate the smell.

NEW !

Hudson Valley Wine Magazine editors caught up with the award-winning Head Brewer at Crossroads Brewing Company for a hearty discussion on brewing in the historic circa 1893 Opera House in Athens, Greene County, NY.

HVW: What’s your favorite style of beer and how does it reflect in your own beermaking? HUTCH: I like full-flavored beers so I tend to gravitate towards making those, like IPA. I make a lot of IPA. Belgian Saison, Maggies Farmhouse Ale are really unique and complex...I like to experiment with making those types of beers too – strong, bold, earthy flavors. HVW: What are some of the challenges/benefits of making beer in the Hudson Valley? HUTCH: I try to use local, or at least NY ingredients like spices, herbs, fruits etc., but there are limitations as far as that goes. Especially in obtaining local hops although I hear that may be coming to the Valley. Athens is a small town, so you have to create your own demand and draw people to the brewery. But we have good access to and from NYC, and we’re right off the main highway, close to Catskill, and now there’s a ferry to and from Hudson that brings people on weekends, so we always sell out. HVW: Any advice for new brewers? HUTCH: Go for it!

yardowlcraftbrewery.com www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012

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W I N E - F R I E N D LY FA R M M A R K E T S

CAN’T GET TO THE WINERY? There’s no better time than harvest season to stock up on fresh produce, cheese, jellies, jams, artisanal treats, and local wine at these markets: Albany County Cohoes Farmers’ Market Large Municipal Parking Lot on Historic Remsen Street 185-187 Remsen Street, Cohoes Fridays: 4pm–7pm, June–Oct 5 www.cohoesfarmersmarket.com Featuring: Brotherhood Winery (in rotation)

Orange County Warwick Valley Farmers’ Market South Street Lot Village of Warwick Sundays: 9am–2pm, rain or shine May 13–Nov 18 warwickvalleyfarmersmarket.org Featuring: Applewood Winery, Warwick Valley Winery

NEW YORK

PARIS

LONDON

EVENT PLANNING & FINE CATERING lemoulincatering.com

Putnam County Cold Spring Farmer’s Market Boscobel House & Gardens parking lot, 1601 Route 9D (just south of Cold Spring Village) Sat: 8:30am–1:30pm May 12–Nov 17 www.csfarmmarket.org Featuring (in rotation): Adair Vineyards, Palaia Vineyards, Warwick Valley Winery, Whitecliff Vineyards

Josyane Colwell 58

914.469.6762

HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

Sullivan County Harvest Festival at Bethel Woods 200 Hurd Road, Bethel Sun: 11am–4pm Sept 9–Oct 7 www.BethelWoodsCenter.org Ulster County Saugerties Farmers Market Summer: 115 Main Street Winter: 207 Market Street Summer: Sat 10am–2pm May 26–Oct 20 Winter: Sundays noon–4pm (once/month before holidays) SaugertiesFarmersMarket.com Featuring: Cascade Winery

Westchester County Hartsdale Farmers Market Aqueduct Road (off East Hartsdale Avenue), Hartsdale Sat: 8am–3pm June–Nov


A DV E R TO R I A L

AWE INSPIRING AUTUMN AT HONOR’S HAVEN RESORT & SPA

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ivid foliage, cascading waterfalls and a host of superb wineries and breweries make the Upper Hudson Valley one of the best destinations in New York to indulge in timeless fall festivities. Located just 90-minutes from Midtown Manhattan, the Upper Hudson Valley offers metropolitan urbanites the opportunity to trade in the lackluster shades of the city for some of Upstate New York’s most stunning hues and vistas. Visitors to the area can embark on scenic hikes, go pumpkin picking, visit a working farm or dine on a delightful assortment of autumn flavors exquisitely paired with tastefully selected wines from the areas premiere vineyards.

Situated at the epicenter of the region’s sparkling wines, vinifera and French/ American varietals and blends is Honor’s Haven Resort & Spa; in the quaint village of Ellenville, NY. Nestled in the heart of the Shawangunk Mountain Region, the gateway to the Catskills and home to the infamous Shawangunk Wine Trail, Honor’s Haven Resort & Spa enhances its breathtaking setting by providing 232 well-appointed rooms and suites as well as The Spa at Honor’s Haven, where you can pamper yourself with a number of treatments and services in a serene environment; alleviating stress and tension (facials, skin care, massages and body work).

Photo by Tomas Donoso; Courtesy of Brotherhood, America’s Oldest Winery

During the month of October, visitors to the region should definitely check out two fantastic fall getaways offered exclusively at Honor’s Haven; the Fall Foliage Weekend Getaway and the always popular Shawangunk Wine Trail Package. Both packages promise the avid leaf peeper a dramatic explosion of vibrant shades of crimson, gold, ginger and bronze; an amazing sight that can only be complimented by their host of onsite and nearby attractions that include golfing, horseback riding, canoeing, kayaking, fishing, shopping, casino action and of course tours of the area’s wineries! To learn more about booking your own awe inspiring autumn getaway visit www.honorshaven.com or call 877-969-4283. Also make sure to like Honor’s Haven Resort & Spa on Facebook for your chance to win a fabulous weekend escape for two!

Breathtaking views of the lake and Shawangunk Mountains at Honor’s Haven Resort & Spa.

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HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012


T H E

C O N V I V I A L

T A B L E

Sears Succulent Duck By Josyane Colwell,

EXECUTIVE CHEF

Le Moulin Event Planning & Catering www.lemoulincatering.com

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rowing up in Nice in the south of the France, one of my fondest memories was vacationing in the “back country”– l’arrière-pays. On the weekends in mid-summer, the families with all their kids would pack into the cars and drive up north, just for fun. There, we would pick buckets full of the black currants that grew wild in the woodlands. We would take them back to the house to make jams, syrups and use them in our crépes, with yogurt and of course, with freshly-baked croissants. As I got older, I learned to enjoy the black currants in another form – Cassis! A Kir, or on special nights, a Kir Royale – made by filling a glass first with the Cassis, then topping it with white wine or Champagne – was a drink I enjoyed often. So imagine my surprise to learn that black currants grow right here in the Hudson Valley, and Cassis is being made here too! With currants, as with grapes, you can taste the distinct terroir, so I was curious and anxious to taste some from the Hudson Valley. I have to say I was pleasantly surprised by the similarities, and the differences, between the styles. French Créme de Cassis is typically a bit denser, thicker and sweeter than some of those I’ve tried here – perhaps because the berries get to linger in the sun a little longer in France. The fruit is more concentrated and the aroma very pungent. Like the Dijon countryside, it is rustic yet refined, with only 14 to 15% alcohol by volume.

Of the few Hudson Valley Cassis’ I’ve tried, when I opened Warwick Valley’s American Fruits Black Current Cordial there was an immediate emotional connection. The aroma reminded me of the hills and mountains where I picked the wild berries as a child. It is highlyfruited, with an earthy nose that reflects the maturity of the berries. I was intrigued by its part rustic, part “American rebel”style, with 18% alcohol. So I decided to create a dish with duck to complement the robust, bold flavors of this cordial, and combined the liqueur with blueberries (another favorite fruit of mine, but more on that at another time) to glaze the sizzling meat. Try it with other Cassis made in the Hudson Valley too. Bon appetit!

GLAZED BREAST OF DUCK W I T H BLACK CURRANT & BLUEBERRY SAUCE A N D GRILLED ORGANIC CARROTS Serves 2 2 breasts of duck (magret) 1 cup Black Currant Cordial ¼ cup dry red wine 1 tablespoon honey 1 quart blueberries 8 whole organic baby carrots, trimmed

To prepare the duck, score the skin (fatty) side of the duck breast with 3 shallow diagonal cuts without cutting through to the meat. Turn breasts over and remove silver tendon. Season both sides with salt and black pepper. Preheat sauté pan over high heat. (I prefer cast iron skillets without a non-stick surface.) Place breast, skin side down to naturally render the fat in the hot skillet. Sear until skin is golden, approximately 10 minutes. Turn the breast and cook the meaty side of the breast in the rendered fat for another 10 minutes. (The duck fat in skillet will add flavor as the meat cooks.) Reduce heat and turn the breasts back to the skin side for a final browning. Remove from skillet and let rest. Add honey, cordial and red wine to skillet. Do not remove fat. Add blueberries to skillet and heat. Slice breast diagonally and return to pan for finishing. In the meantime, steam carrots in a pot of boiling salted water for about 5 minutes or until just tender. Gently remove them from the pot, then roll them in olive oil, add salt and pepper, and place on heated stovetop grill until grill marks show. Garnish the duck with the glazed carrots. Serve with dry red wine and/or a small glass of Black Currant Cordial.

www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012

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SEEDLINGS WHAT’S NEW TO BUY, TRY, OR DO

ON THE WEB: HUDSON VALLEY WINE COUNTRY

Updated to include an expanded list of wineries up and down the Hudson Valley, you’ll find all you need to know to plan your tour including places to stay and eat, and things to do: www.hudsonvalleywinecountry.org

LOCKED-IN LOCAL FLAVOR It’s 2012, do you know where your food comes from? Hudson Valley Harvest flash-freezes their produce and meat right where it comes from – harvested at the peak of freshness from sustainable, small-scale Hudson Valley farms. And with its no-frills packaging and straightforward labeling you can literally trace how far it’s traveled before it hit your plate. Sauté their summer squash mix with a little olive oil, diced shallots, salt & pepper, pair with a local wine and the result is simple, local and delicious. Available at over 150 retail locations throughout the Hudson Valley and NYC area. Visit www.hv-harvest.com

GOOD THINGS COME IN SMALL BATCHES

JAM IT UP The time has come to give marmalade a fair shake. Cooked and bottled by hand in the Hudson Valley the oldfashioned way, these sweet citrus jellies with little bits of suspended fruit and rind inside are all grown up, and now the latest resurgent ingredient in classic cocktails. Add a spoon or two of LunaGrown Grapefruit, Lemon or Lime Marmalade to your favorite martini recipe, and your palate will be pleasantly surprised. It adds depth, richness and an elegant air – suitable for the Savoy circa 1930. For recipes and more info visit www.lunagrown.com

Like us facebook.com/hudsonvalleywinemagazine twitter.com/HVWineMagazine pinterest.com/HVWineMagazine

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HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

These sleek, stylish bottles of local libations are just some of the Hudson Valley’s top-shelf offerings that will be gracing the shelves this fall. Look for Harvest Spirits’ delicately flavored Black Raspberry Core Vodka in their equally seductive signature bottle; Tuthilltown Spirits’ new Half Moon Orchard Gin, made from wheat and the Hudson Valley’s ubiquitous apples, in a package that evokes a spirit of exploration; and the “intriguingly different” Curious Gin, bursting with exotic flavors and handcrafted by Catskill Distilling Company. While you’ll appreciate their sophisticated good looks and clean design, you’ll also savor their natural ingredients and smooth, balanced flavors. Available at select retailers.


BOOKS q

BEVERAGE BASICS:

CIDER ON A MISSION Aaron Burr’s infamous duel with Alexander Hamilton may have ended his political career, but few may know that both Burr and cider apples were instrumental in forming the region during Colonial times – when men were men, and cider was America’s original table wine. Aaron Burr Cidery in Wurtsboro now re-creates this popular beverage with the same sense of irreverence as Mr. Burr himself, even daring to craft cider from unsprayed wild and abandoned apples from local farms (making it the first and only licensed cider of its kind). We can’t decide what we like better for quaffing on a late summer’s day – the rustic, tavern-style Homestead Apple or the brisk, spicy yet sophisticated Ginger Cider, a blend of Orange County cider apples fermented with grated ginger and carrots. Now that’s a challenge we can handle. Visit www.aaronburrcider.com

UNDERSTANDING AND APPRECIATING WINE, BEER , AND SPIRITS Robert W. Small and Michelle Couturier

Understanding the fundamentals of wine can be overwhelming and confusing. Add beer and spirits to the mix and the task is even more formidable. Beverage Basics, Understanding & Appreciating Wine, Beer & Spirits, a comprehensive, well-structured book by Robert W. Small, Ph.D. and Michelle Couturier, with Michael Godfrey on beer, covers the essentials of these beverages in an easy-to-read format, including almost everything you’ll need to know to get more out of your beverage tasting experience. Beverage Basics opens with the often-overlooked history of beverages, the health-related and social issues surrounding alcohol, as well as laws regarding its sale and distribution. Covered are the basics trials and tribulations of growing grapes and making wine. Its 460+ pages are heavily illustrated with sidebars, charts, and color photography depicting different regions and highlighting key points, and even includes an aroma wheel. The appendix includes examples of wine and beer labels from both New and Old World wine regions and how to decipher them, complete with useful regional maps. Small, a wine and spirits expert and educator, chairman of the Los Angeles International Wine competition, and judge at the New York Wine & Food Classic, presents wines the way you want to learn about them – by varietal, rather than origin. In each section, he provides information about the appellations where the varietal is grown, how it fares in the vineyard and its continued on page 64

APPS q

POCKET WINE iPhone, iPod touch, and iPad (v1.2) $ 3.99 www.wineparadigm.com

Pocket Wine offers a concise, yet detailed introduction into the complex world of grape varieties, wines and wine blends. Offering definitions and grouping by both style (aromatic, fruity, etc.), grapes (alphabetically) and food types (red meats, pasta/pizza, etc.) the app is an excellent portable encyclopedia for the wine novice, and a helpful reminder for more experienced oenophiles. There is a noticeable lack of our regional varietals among the 78 wine grapes listed. While the more common names like Riesling, Chardonnay and Cab Franc are included, most popular East Coast and Hudson Valley varietals such as Baco Noir, Seyval Blanc, Leon Millot, DeChaunac, Vignoles, Cayuga, Marechal Foch, to name a few, are absent. Otherwise it’s a handy pocket reference at your fingertips!

WHAT WE LIKE: – Simple and easy navigation – Glossary of terms

WHAT WE’D LIKE TO SEE: – More support for local varietals like Baco Noir, Seyval Blanc, Cayuga, etc.

– Can create personal “My Taste” profiles and notes on grape varietals – Offline use, email support, no ads

www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012

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Beverage Basics continued from page 63

Shopping for Local Libations? You’ll find Hudson Valley wines & spirits at these shops:

various wine styles, followed by aroma and taste profiles. Lastly, he covers how to enjoy the varietal, including buying, storing, serving and food pairing suggestions. The book includes information about almost every conceivable type of grape, including hybrids and native North American varieties. Unfortunately, the Hudson Valley AVA is not listed at all among the North American regions, nor is it indicated on the map of New York’s wine regions. Although varietals that are grown here (such as Seyval Blanc, Vidal Blanc and Chambourcin) are included in the list of “Distinguishing Characteristics of North American Wines,” they are listed under the state of Missouri rather than New York, perhaps because of their limited production here.

ORANGE COUNTY

Cornwall Wines & Spirits 45 Quaker Ave., Suite 102 Cornwall, NY 12518 845-534-5140 www.cornwallwines.com ULSTER COUNTY

Fox and Hound Wine & Spirits 20 New Paltz Plaza New Paltz, NY 12561 845-255-7475 www.foxandhoundwines.com

The beer and spirits sections are not as detailed as the chapters on wine, but they are presented in an equally user-friendly, simple to digest manner with enough visual aids to whet the reader’s appetite to learn more about the subject. PMS Green: 553

PMS Gold Metallic: 871

Beverage Basics is not the definitive work on the subject of wine, beer and spirits, but neither does it claim to be. Rather it arms the reader with enough basic fundamentals to become a wellrounded consumer. Overall, it is a well-conceived book that is educational for the novice, and will serve as a reliable guidebook for those in the business – professional chefs, bartenders and sommeliers. Beverage Basics is a practical, all-in-one guide to the world of wine, beer and spirits, and one that should easily find a place in your wine library. Published by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. | $65.00 www.wiley.com

• FREE Continental Breakfast • FREE Wireless Internet • FREE Local & Long Distance calling Earn Wyndham Rewards Meeting Room Available – Pet Friendly Convenient to Shawangunk Wine Trail, Woodbury Common Outlet, Bethel Woods and West Point Reservations: 800-771-7171 www.microtelinn.com

Use code “Get Gunked” to SAVE 15% on your stay! 19 Crystal Run Crossing Middletown, NY 10994 Phone: 845-692-0098 Fax: 845-692-0078

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HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

Maddens Fine Wines & Spirits 65 Broadway, Kingston, NY 12401 845-340-WINE (9463) www.maddensfinewines.com Town & Country Liquors CVS Plaza, Rt. 212 Saugerties, NY 12477 845-246-8931 www.tcliquors.com


A DV E R TO R I A L

Local Women Turn Adversity into Wine Brand

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“If we want our consumers happy with the product, why not let them decide what we produce?” questions Pesce.

hen Debbie Gioquindo was downsized, she thought life handed her a raw deal. Not one to give up easily, she stayed in touch with the world through social media. Good thing, because unbeknownst to her, her unexpected job loss and one Tweet were about to change her life. Enter Keryl Pesce, author of Happy Bitch, whose book and brand are built on embracing life’s challenges. Pesce’s curveball came in the form of a painful divorce, which she subsequently used as a launching pad to rebuild her life, write a book and develop a brand designed to help other women live their happiest lives. After Pesce released her book, she looked for the next opportunity to expand the brand. What do women love? What brings women together to celebrate life and happiness? You guessed it. Wine. Pesce polled her followers via Twitter and email, asking what they thought about the idea of creating a Happy Bitch wine. With a 100% positive, ‘‘Yes, do it!” response, she knew she was on the right track. But one reply via Twitter was the catalyst to bring the project to fruition.

From idea to Tweet to now a product found in stores throughout New York and New Jersey, Happy Bitch Rosé has received notable attention and mentions in The New York Times, Bloomberg Businessweek.com, Zagat and Gotham.com. Pesce (left) and Gioquindo (right)

Gioquindo, now with unexpected free time on her hands, quickly responded suggesting Pesce make it a Hudson Valley or New York wine. No surprise, as Gioquindo is a wine educator and blogger known as the Hudson Valley Wine Goddess. A few days later, the two met for coffee, formed a partnership, and were off to the races. Working closely with a wine master through multiple tasting trials, they came up with a base blend. From there, three variations were produced and brought to the Hudson Valley Food &Wine Festival in September 2011. The two invited festival goers to taste the three blends and vote for their favorite.

Their wine is a lively blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. “It’s not too dry and not too sweet,” says Gioquindo. “We love our final product. We knew we had a great message and branding, but it was also important that we have a quality product inside.” What’s the message they hope to impart on others? “None of us will get through life challenge-free,” shares Pesce. “The key is to understand every challenge serves us somehow. Don’t ask ‘Why me?’ Ask ‘What’s next? How can I turn this into something positive?’” ‘‘We’re not just a wine,” says Gioquindo. ‘‘We’re a lifestyle. We want to set an example for others who face challenging times.” ■

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Enjoying a wine region ...glass by glass

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CtC , CSW, WlS

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By Debbie Gioquindo,

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WINE

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Planning your trip through wine country can be a daunting task, especially if you aren’t familiar with the region. Every wine region is different, so don’t expect the wineries to be all on one road, one after another with an abundance of places to stop, eat or sleep. So let’s get started – fill up your wine glass, rev up your computer and let the research begin... ew York alone has 12 wine regions, with three of the major ones being the Hudson Valley, Long Island, and the Finger Lakes. And let’s not forget the Greater Niagara Area region. Each is uniquely different from the other, and specializes in different varietals, styles and methods of winemaking. Before you start planning your trip, take a good look at the region and what is has to offer while you are there.

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To do this, you’ll have to get online or on your mobile device. Most wine regions have their own websites or apps, and you’ll find there are many other wine travel websites that have trip planning tools as well. When you visit these sites they’ll give you a better understanding of the region, its infrastructure and what accommodations are available, along with lists of wineries to visit, ideas for things to do, unique attractions, calendars of events, etc. Strategically look for your lodging in an area that is easily accessible to everything (truth be told, I usually do this the old-fashioned way and get out a map). All regions have lodging choices that can accommodate your budget, whether it’s an off-the-main-road motel, a chain hotel, or a cozy bed & breakfast.

WINE TASTING CHECKLIST aMaps, regional guides and magazines, and a GPS unit (these can be indispensable to get you from winery to winery, or around unfamiliar territory)

aPlenty of bottled water aSnacks like cheese and crackers, or bread to cleanse the palate

aA large cooler for your wine purchases (if it is summertime, you run the risk of spoiling your purchase if you drive around with wine in the trunk)

aA corkscrew to pop open a bottle if you plan on picnicking

aA pocket-size bottle of Wine-Away or Vino 911 (in case that red wine gets on your white shirt or dress!)

Next Step: Wineries Now its time to think about the wines you like and/or would like to experience, and importantly, what the wine region is best known for. Think about what kind of wineries you want to visit. Small, family-owned? Those with large facilities? Ones that offer tours? Have picnic spots or restaurants on site? Have live music or special events? Once you’ve picked out a region, and honed in on the wineries you’d like to visit, it’s time to ask “how many Keep in mind the time of year you are visiting. Some wineries are closed on certain holidays and during winter months, or may require an appointment especially if you are traveling with a group of eight or more.

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HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

wineries can I visit in a day?” On a leisurely day, three to four, depending on the infrastructure and geography of the wine region. If you begin immediately when the first winery opens its doors then you can potentially visit six to eight in a day! As a general rule, allow yourself at least one hour at each winery; some tastings will take more time if a tour is involved, others less. And remember, when you’re on the road, if you see a winery that looks intriguing, stop! I’ve discovered some of the best wines and wineries by accident. In the tasting room, don’t pass judgment on varietals you haven’t tried, this is the best time to taste and decide if you like them. Experiment a little, let your palate go.


If you’re enjoying your tasting and the staff at the winery, you’ll want to savor the experience and not worry about the time.

Remember you’re on vacation, so take full advantage of the region. When you are in wine country for several days, be sure you keep a day open for the other activities that are suggested on the websites or by people you meet. Don’t be afraid to ask the locals questions; you’ll find they love to give advice. Inquire about restaurants that they like to dine at, and even ask about their favorite wineries. There might be a great historic site to see or place to hike that wasn’t mentioned on a website. Leave some time for these other activities – they will enhance your overall wine country experience. You might try beginning your day with a hearty breakfast, perhaps indulging in a spa treatment, or visiting a local museum, and then spend the afternoon wine tasting.

This will prevent palate fatigue, when all the wine begins to taste the same. You will appreciate them more this way. Try not to pack everything into one day – after all, you’re supposed to be relaxing!

While You’re There... Remember too, that you aren’t out to get drunk, so don’t be afraid to spit! It’s okay to lean over the dump bucket and spit out your wine. If others look at you strangely, well, they just don’t know the art of wine tasting. Six to eight hours of tasting can be tiring both for you and your palate. I have a rule – if I really like the taste of a particular wine, then I savor it, enjoy it and swallow. Otherwise I look for the dump bucket. Everyone has a different palate and every winemaker has a different approach to making wines, so never be embarrassed to discard it or say, “...this wine isn’t for me.” I always encourage travelers to ask questions when visiting a winery. If you are talking to the winemaker or winery owner, chances are they’ll be happy to talk about themselves, their winery, and their philosophy on making wine. Some initial questions you might want to ask: • When was the winery started? • What brought you into the wine business? continued on page 68

After a day at the winery, treat yourself...you deserve it.

SALON

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www.exclusivewinevacations.com FINGER LAKES REGION

www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012

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WINE COUNTRY TRAVEL

A little advice on purchasing wines: If you try one and like it, purchase it. Many wineries make certain wines in small production, so if you don’t buy it while you are there, you might find yourself contacting the winery weeks later, only to be disappointed to find it just sold out for the year. While at the winery purchase a few bottles of it, or if it is exceptional, even a case. Chances are when you bring that bottle home and drink it, you’ll want more!


continued from page 67

• • • •

WHERE TO STAY

How many cases do you produce in a year? What is your signature wine, and why? What would you drink if you weren’t drinking wine? Will you be releasing any new wines soon?

HUDSON VALLEY REGION

Barclay Heights Bed & Breakfast at Smythe House 158 Burt Street, Saugerties, NY 12477 845-246-3788 | cell 845-532-5565 www.OutstandingHospitality.com

When tasting individual wines, these questions might help you discover why you like the wine or not: • What is the vintage and varietal? • Is this estate wine (grapes grown in your vineyard)? • If not, where were the grapes sourced from? • What type of oak do you use for aging, if any? • Was it aged on the lees (the yeasty sediment after fermentation)? Final notes: When touring wine country always enjoy the local cuisine and drink the local wines on the restaurant menu. And don’t be disappointed when you get home and open that bottle of wine that you loved at the winery to find it doesn’t taste exactly as exciting as when you were there. You’re just missing the ambience – the people and the place. Just think of it as an incentive to travel back to that particular wine region again – there’s always plenty more to explore. Happy wine travels!

Experience Outstanding Hospitality; Luxury rooms, gourmet breakfast

GETTING AROUND All Transportation Network The Better Travel Experience. 800-525-2306 www.alltrans.net

WINE COUNTRY EVENTS SEPTEMBER

Hudson Valley Wine & Food Fest Dutchess County Fairgrounds, Rhinebeck, NY Sat–Sun, September 8–9 www.HudsonValleyWineFest.com Harvest Celebration of Food & Wine Keuka Lake Wine Trail, Penn Yan, NY Sat–Sun, September 15–16 www.keukawinetrail.com Taste of New Paltz Ulster County Fairgrounds, New Paltz, NY Sunday, September 16 www.newpaltzchamber.org Stems & Steins Wine, Beer, and Food Festival North Street Recreation Center, Old Forge, NY Sat–Sun, September 22–23 www.viewarts.org/Stems_and_Steins.cfm

Fall Weekend Wine Tasting Tours Enjoy a two nights stay at the VanWinkle Inn in Greenville, gourmet breakfast, car ser vice to and from 6 wineries, lunch served at a select winery plus a gift certificate towards dinner at one of our fabulous local restaurants. A Sleepy Bed & Breakfast

VanWinkle

Inn www.vanwinkleinn.com

CALL FOR DETAILS & RESERVATIONS 518-966-4100 or 518-577-7109

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HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

OCTOBER

Wine Festival at Bethel Woods 200 Hurd Road, Bethel, NY Saturday, October 6 www.bethelwoodscenter.org NOVEMBER

Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Presents the Crown Maple Wine, Cider & Maple Fest 47 McCourt Road, Dover Plains, NY Saturday, November 10 crownmaple.com DECEMBER

The Holiday Market at Bethel Woods 200 Hurd Road, Bethel, NY Sat–Sun, December 1–2, 11am–4pm www.bethelwoodscenter.org


Vine-to-Table Dining

DUTCHESS COUNTY

These fine restaurants and wine bars serve up local wines and spirits with award-winning culinary flair. Be sure to stop in and ask for your favorite beverage to pair with your meal.

2 Taste Food & Wine Bar 4290 Albany Post Road Hyde Park, NY 12538 845-233-5647 www.2tastefoodandwinebar.com Executive Chef: Stephen Smrcina

ALBANY COUNTY

ULSTER COUNTY

New World Bistro Bar 200 Delaware Ave., Albany, NY 12209 518-694-0520 www.newworldbistrobar.com Executive Chef: Ric Orlando

Aroma Thyme Bistro 165 Canal St Ellenville, NY 12428 845-647-3000 www.aromathymebistro.com Executive Chef: Marcus Guiliano Hudson Valley’s 1st Certified Green Restaurant, 200 craft beers, 300 wines

The Wine Bar and Bistro on Lark 200 Lark St., Albany, NY 12210 518-463-2881 www.winebaronlark.com Chef/Owner: Kevin P. Everleth Executive Chef: Jason T. Baker

New World Home Cooking Co. 1411 Rte 212, Saugerties, NY 12477 845-246-0900 www.newworldhomecooking.com Executive Chef: Ric Orlando

Wine Spectator Magazine Award of Excellence 2009-2011

Wine-ing a Whey continued from page 11 and the establishment in which it is served. By definition, a Heuriger is always attached to a vineyard which produces the very wine that is served to customers. The word Heuriger, to many, conjures up a small one-story house at the edge of a vineyard, with a green bough on a stick over its entrance announcing the presence of new wine. In the courtyards and also indoors, one finds benches and wooden tables whose rough surfaces are laden with heavy glasses filled with dry refreshing wine. Only warm food is served and most every establishment has an assortment of breads and delicious spreads to start the meal. I have incredible memories of every Heuriger I visited. They are warm, inviting places to sample the local flavors with the local people. A unique experience for any culinary traveler. Getting back to Liptauer. ..I’ve been served numerous styles of Liptauer ranging from mildly spicy with a more pickled flavor, to those with a bite – full of hot paprika, caraway and mustard seed. I’ve tried using many different types of cheese including feta, cream cheese, quark, ricotta and goat milk chevre with varying results. My favorite version uses fresh

chevre and has a bit of a kick, perfect for pairing, served spread on apples, sausage, brown bread or crackers. You can experiment with amounts of spice, pickles and scallion but one thing is for sure, it’s a perfect starter with a chilled glass of off-dry Riesling or medium-bodied Zweigelt. Spreading it on cured meats can switch up your wine options, so experiment! Try a Hudson Valley Traminette or Gamay, and substitute Hawthorne Valley’s Quark or Old Chatham Sheepherding Company’s fresh ricotta for different variations. Prost!

www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012

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HUDSON VALLEY WINE â&#x20AC;¢ Summer/Fall 2012


Ty ’s T A K E - A W A Y By Michael “Ty the Wine Guy” Taiani

“Against all odds, we must do all to preserve the wine.” Had Abraham Lincoln, our 16th President, admired wine as much as one of his predecessors, Thomas Jefferson, this might have been the quote under the Lincoln Memorial in Washington, D.C. This comes to mind since, on a recent summer excursion, my wife and I drove past the historic battlegrounds and wineries of eastern Virginia, we had an engaging discussion on how Lincoln preserved the Union during the Civil War.

“Pandora’s Bottle is as delicious as a vintage Château Lafite and almost as rare—a novel that is as entertaining as it is smart. – Marc Acito

Joanne Sydney Lessner

Pandora’s

BOTTLE inspired by the world’s most expensive bottle of wine & the wineries of the hudson valley

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F L I N T M I N E P R E SS www.flintminepress.com

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Now available for Kindle, Nook and iPad

P R E S E N T S

Jewelry of the Americas 7th Annual Conference on Jewelry The all-day conference is held in a turn-of-the-century private club in New York City October 7, 2012

Tip of the Iceberg ring, Niki Kavakonis

For more information go to:

www.jewelryconference.com Non-members are welcome to attend. ASJRA, 246 N. Regent St., Port Chester, NY 10573 (914) 286-7685 or elyse@jewelryandrelatedarts.com 72

HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

Needless to say, whenever I think of preservation, my favorite beverage of choice – wine – comes to mind. Never before has there been such an array of wine-preservation products available. And they’re not only for the athome wine consumer. In fact, many are used in commercial applications like restaurants, wine bars, and tasting rooms (including those at our Hudson Valley wineries), ensuring that the wine in an uncorked bottle remains fresh, fresh, fresh! It is worth noting a common misperception that some people have, in that if wine contains alcohol, how can it turn bad? Well, in reality, wine is a natural, fruit-based chemical beverage (i.e., carbon-molecular compound) subject to aging, and so it requires some science to preserve it. Chef Julia Child defined it best: “Wine is a living liquid…its life cycle comprises youth, maturity, old age, and death. When not treated with reasonable respect it will sicken and die.” But before I begin to mention several of the most common preservation devices, I think it’s best to discuss a few of the culprits that lead to wine spoilage: • Oxidation, the most common, is the process when oxygen (O2) molecules interact with “exposed” wine, usually along its surface edge, producing spoilage. This leads to a loss of color, flavor and aroma, and is often accompanied with the smell of raisins, cooked fruits and/or stale walnuts. It is often visually detectable by a premature browning or yellowing of the wine. Causes: unprotected wine and/or cork failure. • “Cooked” wine occurs when a wine bottle has been exposed to too much heat; higher than the ideal storage temperature for wine (55° F). This is one reason why you should never store wine in the kitchen, as in most cases temperatures can exceed the high 70s. • Light-strike is when a wine bottle is exposed to sunlight for a prolonged period of time. Clear, colorless bottles are especially prone since they are able to absorb the full rays of the sun and ultraviolet light. These wines will experience a color change while losing their flavors. A wine shopper’s rule: Be weary of wine shops with many clear, unprotected windows or those that use retail window displays. If you’re going to spend money purchasing wine, you should really consider spending a little bit more to keep that bottle lasting as long as possible. Here are some of the most common and popular solutions to avoid spoilage: • Wine vacuum pumps/toppers. Whether electric or manual, the concept is simple – they pump out the air in an uncorked a bottle before the wine can begin oxidizing. Removing oxygen keeps wine healthy for several days. No doubt the best value for temporary preservation. • Nitrogen or Inert “Gas in-a-Can.” Pumping inert gas into an open wine bottle creates a barrier preventing oxygen molecules from contacting the wine’s surface. However, this solution is a bit pricier in the long run – when the can is empty, it’s empty, and time to buy another! • Wine refrigerators, aka Coolers. There are many brands with different bottle count capacities and styles to choose from. While they vary in expense, a proper wine “fridge” will have glass doors with a UV coating to prevent exposure to direct sunlight and to keep the bottles in a safe temperature range which will prevent “cooking.” • Room-darkening curtains/blinds. If you have to store your wine at home out in the open, these will at least help filter out the light while keeping the room marginally cooler – especially during the peak summer months when the sun’s rays are at their strongest. These and similar products can be found at any of the major home stores throughout the Hudson Valley, and/or online. Simply analyze your preservation needs and then have fun shopping. Its worth the time, effort, and expense to ensure you get the most out of your wine.


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Wineries, Distilleries & Breweries

7

9 87

162 890 88

TROY

32

20

Sullivan

2

Albany International Airport

20 90

Orange County 4

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ALBANY

30

Brookview Station Winery

145

9

443

22

90 43

RENS SELAER

9J 9W

ALBANY

20

Harvest Spirits

143 30

GREENVILLE

DURHAM

32

23 145

PRATTSVILLE

23

9

9J

9

23A

23B

CATSKILL 23

TANNERSVILLE 9G

32

SAUGERTIES

82

9

Tousey Winery

CLERMONT

22

STAT E PA RKWA Y

PHOENICIA

COPAKE FALLS

TACONI C

212

32

RED HOOK

28

9

Cereghino Smith

Tuthilltown Spirits Distillery

209 44

Adair Vineyards

HYDE PARK

299

55 9W

87

Baldwin Vineyards

CORNWALL

WEST POINT

1 94

SUGAR LOAF

Applewood Winery

WARWICK

BREWSTER 202

6

STONYPOINT

35

PEEKSKILL

ROCKLAND 45

ES PA AY RKW

HILLBURN SUFFERN

35 7

9W

22

SLEEPY HOLLOW

CONGERS

123

PLEASANTVILLE

NEW CITY

59

NYACK

Brewery Distillery

R K WA Y

WA Y

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RP ARK

BR

RIV E

Winery

TAPPAN

SAW MILL

304

AIN

287

287

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Illustration: emster.com

TARRYTOWN PIERMONT

MAP LEGEND

Cereghino Smith 2583 Route 32 Bloomington, NY 12411 cereghinosmith.com

Whitecliff Vineyard 331 McKinstry Road Gardiner, NY 12525 whitecliffwine.com

Columbia County

684

WESTCHESTER 292

5

GREENWOOD LAKE

Tuthilltown Spirits Distillery 14 Grist Mill Lane Gardiner, NY 12525 tuthilltown.com

Crossroads Brewing Company 21 Second Street Athens, NY 12015 crossroadsbrewingco.com

6

GARRISON

HAVERSTRAW

87

Brimstone Hill Vineyard 61 Brimstone Hill Road Pine Bush, NY 12566 brimstonehillwine.com

Greene County

52

CARMEL

6

AD PALIS

Warwick Valley Winery & Distillery

301

BEAR MOUNTAIN

MONROE

13

1A

32

17

PAWLING

PUTNAM

9

Palaia Vineyards

CHESTER

ORANGE

Stoutridge Vineyard 10 Ann Kaley Lane Marlboro, NY 12542 stoutridge.com

Millbrook Vineyards & Winery 26 Wing Road Millbrook, NY 12545 millbrookwine.com

84

COLDSPRING

WASHINGTONVILLE

GOSHEN

6

52

RKWAY

PORT JERVIS

Benmarl Winery 156 Highland Avenue Marlboro, NY 12542 benmarl.com

BEACON

NEWBURGH

Brotherhood Winery

HAMPTONBURGH

MIDDLETOWN

82

IC ST ATE P A

Stewart International Airport

84

Robibero Winery 714 Albany Post Road New Paltz, NY 12561 rnewyorkwine.com

Dutchess County

55

22

WAPPINGERS FALLS

9D

Benmarl Winery

7

DUTCHESS

Stoutridge 376 Vineyard

32

Baldwin Vineyards 176 Hardenburgh Road Pine Bush, NY 12566 baldwinvineyards.com

22

POUGHKEEPSIE

MARLBORO

17

DOVER PLAINS

82

Glorie Farm Winery 40 Mountain Road Marlboro, NY 12542 gloriewine.com

TAC ON

Brimstone Hill Vineyard

Glorie Farm 115 44 Winery

44

55

209

343

NEW PALTZ

44

SULLIVAN

BashaKill Vineyards

MILLBROOK

41

KERHONKSON 55

199

Millbrook 82 Vineyards & Winery

9G

9W

Adair Vineyards 52 Allhusen Road New Paltz, NY 12561 adairwine.com

41

MILLERTON

RHINEBECK

KINGSTON

Whitecliff Vineyard

PINES PLAINS

199

ULSTER

Catskill Distilling Company

71

COLUMBIA

23A

42

Catskill Distilling Company 2037 State Rt. 17B Bethel, NY 12720 catskilldistilling.com

Ulster County

HUDSON 9

BashaKill Vineyards 1131 South Road Wurtsboro, NY 12790 bashakillvineyards.com

Hudson-Chatham Winery

PHILMONT

296

295

90

203

66

HUNTER

Chatham Brewing

GHENT

87

Warwick Valley Winery & Distillery 114 Little York Road Warwick, NY 10990 wvwinery.com

Sullivan County

66

CHATHAM

385

23

GREENE

Brotherhood Winery 100 Brotherhood Plaza Dr. Washingtonville, NY 10992 brotherhoodwinery.net

NEW LEBANON

203

9H

9W

CAIRO

WINDHAM

Palaia Vineyards 20 Sweet Clover Road Highland Mills, NY 10930 palaiavineyards.com

90

KINDERHOOK

Crossroads 81 COXSACKIE Brewing Company

Applewood Winery 82 Four Corners Road Warwick, NY 10990 applewoodwinery.com

WHITE PLAINS RYE

YONKERS 95

NEW ROCHELLE 80

MOUNT VERNON

Map of select wineries, distilleries and breweries featured in this issue. Map artwork Š2012 Hudson Valley Wine Magazine. Map may not be reproduced or used in any form without the express written permission of the publisher. Contact ads@hvwinemag.com

Westchester County Airport

684

95

Chatham Brewing 30 Main Street Chatham, NY 12037 chathambrewing.com

Hudson-Chatham Winery 1900 State Route 66 Ghent, NY 12075 hudson-chathamwinery.com

Harvest Spirits 3074 US Route 9 Valatie, NY 12184 harvestspirits.com

Tousey Winery 1774 Route 9 Germantown, NY 12526 touseywinery.com

Rensselaer County Brookview Station Winery 1297 Brookview Station Road Castleton-on-Hudson, NY 12033 brookviewstationwinery.com

THE REGION

NEW YORK

Hudson Valley

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Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012