HUDSON VALLEY + CAPITAL REGION
U LT IM ATE CIDER + APPLE SPIRITS
GUIDE — 20 1 9 —
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ULTIMATE CIDER + APPLE SPIRITS GUIDE Volume 1V Issue 1 2019
ROBERT BEDFORD LINDA PIERRO PUBLISHERS LINDA PIERRO MANAGING EDITOR / DESIGN DIRECTOR
U LT IM ATE CIDER + APPLE SPIRITS
CHERYL ELKINS SUSAN O’DONNELL ADVERTISING SALES
FEATURES ROBERT BEDFORD
Orchards in Evolution
DAN PUCCI JENN SMITH
2 When Cider Ruled the Nation
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EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTIONS: We invite ideas for articles, photographs, letters and other contributions from readers. Write us at the address below or email info@HVCiderGuide.com. A manuscript or artwork submitted by mail should be accompanied by a self-addressed, pre-paid envelope if you would like it returned. We are not responsible for the return or loss of submissions. CONTACT US: Cider Guide / Hudson Valley Wine Magazine PO Box 353, Coxsackie, NY 12051 Email: info@HVCiderGuide.com VISIT US: HVCiderGuide.com
The ULTIMATE CIDER + APPLE SPIRITS GUIDE is published annually by Flint Mine Press, a division of Flint Mine Group, llc. ©2019 Flint Mine Group, llc. All rights reserved. Hudson Valley Wine and the Ultimate Cider + Apple Spirits Guide are trademarks of Flint Mine Group, llc. Material may not be reproduced in whole or in part in any form without written permission. No statement in this publication is to be construed as a recommendation. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY. COVER PHOTO: Courtesy Awestruck
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Angry Orchard Awestruck Bad Seed Cider Co. Brooklyn Cider House Doc’s Draft Hard Cider Hardscrabble Cider Helderberg Meadworks Kettleborough Cider House Naked Flock Hard Cider Nine Pin Ciderworks Orchard Hill Cider Mill Pennings Farm Cidery Standard Cider Co. Treasury Cider
Orchards in Evolution Dan Pucci
he Hudson Valley has long been held as one of the premier growing regions in the United States. Early Colonial farmers were self-sufficient and produced enough food to support their local communities, but the real boon came when the expanding city of New York outgrew its capacity to sustain itself, leading Hudson Valley farmers to ship apples, peaches, and other fruits and vegetables by steamboat down the
Hudson River to larger, hungry markets. The Hudson Valley became an agricultural workhorse. Hudson Valley apples rose to prominence, fetching previously unheard of prices in Manhattan and other cities. However, the agricultural ascendancy of the Hudson Valley would not last forever. Railroads, and later highways, supplanted waterways as the primary means of shipping in America. The Hudson Valleyâ€™s proximity to the city, which was critical to its initial success, later became less relevant, as the ever-decreasing cost of transportation brought large industrial farming operations in the Midwest and California closer to East Coast cities.
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Farms of every size had a hard time selling apples wholesale to brokers while still maintaining a profitable business. Many orchards tried to innovate while others were swallowed up. Suburbanization slowly took over the fallow fields across the country, as struggling farmers accepted buyouts for their land to make way for developments and strip malls.
Preserving the Orchards Located within sight of the Shawangunk Ridge, Stone Ridge Orchard in High Falls was poised for development. Over the last century, portions of the orchard were carved out along the road as owners sold lots of land when money was tight. This practice was echoed in the Hudson Valley’s “Banana Belt,” the hillside above Marlboro and Milton, known for its eastern, river-facing views that catch the morning sun, making it one of the warmest parts of the river valley. In the 1970s, Stone Ridge Orchard underwent reconstruction, and many of the large, older apple trees were replaced with smaller trees that were easier to manage. By the turn of the 21st century, successive challenging harvests and lackluster sales had eaten away at the orchard as cash flow dwindled. In 2007, developers locked in on the 114-acre parcel for development. The proposed Marbletown Green project was to include a 350-home development in place of the historic orchard. Following public outcry, the Marbletown Green project was eventually withdrawn. After nearly a decade of discussion, Elizabeth Ryan, owner of Hudson Valley Farmhouse Cider and Breezy Hill Orchards, who had managed the property for years, purchased the orchard. The sale was made possible by the American Farmland Trust who had purchased the rights to ensure that the orchard would never be threatened by development again. Non-profit organizations such as American Farmland Trust, Scenic Hudson, and Glynwood, an agricultural non-profit based in Cold Spring, have been at the frontline, working hard to preserve the valley’s farmland. According to the American Farmland Trust, 31 million acres of agricultural land nationwide were developed between 1992 and 2012. Curbing this rate in the Hudson Valley, which loses thousands of acres of farmland each year, has been a top priority for Glynwood. For over 20 years, Glynwood has been at the center of education, training, innovation, and advocacy. They broke ground with their cider project which has given new tools to cider makers across New York State which has close to 100 cider producers—the most in the country. Megan Larmer, regional director of food at Glynwood said the cider project was inspired by the desire to save the Hudson Valley’s historic orchards. “Over the decade, we’ve worked with growers, cider makers, chefs, and researchers to create a vibrant cider culture that connects residents to these orchards so they will be valued for generations to come,” Larmer said.
Planting for the Future Cider makers across the region have begun to plant cider-specific apples to bring structure, weight and tannin to their ciders, something lacking from the existing varieties in many older orchards. In 2015, Angry Orchard made the Hudson Valley its home at their Cider House in Walden, in the center of a 60-acre orchard. The orchard, once filled with unwanted apples such as Red Delicious, was replanted in favor of tannin-rich, bittersweet English cider apples like Dabinett. Angry Orchard’s investment in New York has helped preserve agricultural land, not only on their home farm but throughout the state. Long-term contracts for apples are keeping trees in the ground and ensuring stability in an unstable industry. In 2016, Angry Orchard undertook one of its most ambitious programs in collaboration with Glynwood. They sponsored trial plantings of 5,000 trees across 15 orchards in
According to the American Farmland Trust, 31 million acres of agricultural land nationwide were developed between 1992 and 2012.
HVCiderGuide.com • 2019
an effort to identify the apple varieties best suited for the Hudson Valley. Every spring, Glynwood collects data to monitor how these trees are growing. Considering the investment that goes into every bottle, cider remains an incredible value. There is still much to learn about growing and harvesting cider-specific apples, and the associated costs of such apples are higher compared to traditional eating apples. This means that the fruit in every $20 bottle of cider costs more to grow than the grapes in an average $20 bottle of Chardonnay. For much of the 20th century, farms throughout the Hudson Valley sold fruit to packing houses that would combine the apples of many farmers and market them for sale in New York City. But declining prices and the demands of reinvestment pushed many to convert their orchards to retail businesses. Instead of bringing apples to the people, the people would come to the apples.
The Growth of U-Pick Today, U-Pick orchards dot the Valley, attracting a loyal following every year in search of strawberries in late spring and the last of the Gold Rush apples at winter’s door. Apple picking has become an annual tradition that has as much to do with cider donuts and hay rides as it does about fruit. Among the U-Pick orchards that came to embrace cider is Fishkill Farms in Hopewell Junction. Josh Morgenthau, third-generation proprietor, introduced cider in 2016 and made many improvements at the farm to ensure that cider remains an integral part of the orchard’s future, as it is at family-owned Kettleborough Cider House and Pennings Farm Cidery. At Fishkill Farms, cider-specific heirloom apples are planted alongside the popular Honeycrisp and Ginger Gold apples. While guests won’t be picking and feasting on the future cider crop, they can sip on estate-grown cider with a plate of Jamaican jerk chicken, overlooking the trees that bore the fruit. Orchard Hill Cider Mill on Soons Orchards draws visitors from across the region seeking their classic method sparkling cider and world-class Pommeau. Visitors can belly up to the cider bar in their tasting room after picking their favorite apples. Inspired by the Spanish tradition of cider making, Peter Yi and his sister Susan started Brooklyn Cider House in 2014. While they were building their restaurant and production space in Brooklyn, they purchased Twin Star Orchards just south of New Paltz.
Here, Yi is looking to infuse decades of beverage experience with consumer’s annual habits. Weekend pizzas and the occasional pig roast means visitors get more than just fruit at their orchard, making it a place to visit in spring and summer, and not just fall. Yet for many visitors, these activities are the only time they’ll spend on a farm all year. This puts cider in a unique position to engage people differently than other alcohol or farm businesses. Breweries can use hops and grain grown thousands of miles away, and no one visits a winery expecting to snack on the grapes that go into the bottle, but cider brings people up close and personal with the raw materials.
Old Orchards Renewed U-Pick orchards lose one out of every three apples to careless pickers, which often come the rest on the orchard floor, rather than in the bags of visitors. But that is not the only underutilized fruit. Cider makers like Bad Seed Cider and Naked Flock utilize apples that were not destined for retail sales due to their size or cosmetic irregularities. These apples would often cost more to grow and process than a farmer could sell them for. For instance, Hudson Valley Northern Spy apples that once ended up in commercial applesauce only fetched a fraction of the price they would at the farmer’s market. Now, thanks to cider, Northern Spy apple trees have a new life. Doc’s Draft Cider in Warwick has been a leader in the Hudson Valley since they first opened their doors in 1994. As one of the first cideries and then first fruit distiller in the Valley, they established many of the foundations that the modern cider community is built upon. They proved that there could be an alternative to the traditional U-Pick or wholesale farms—that value-added agricultural goods might be the future of the family farm. The agricultural promise of the Hudson Valley lies in products like cider, cheese, charcuterie, and other value-added products that are both environmentally and economically sustainable. With support from organizations such as Glynwood, they are part of a changing landscape that keeps the wealth of the Valley tied to its agricultural heart. Cider is the perfect vehicle for orchards in the Hudson Valley to build upon for the next generation, turning the hurdles of development into assets. Cider from the Hudson Valley is some of the finest in the world, which alone is enough reason to drink it up, but it is even more delicious when you consider that every glass of cider can help preserve the agricultural landscape and future of the Hudson Valley.
The State of Cider Finding authentic New York Cider just became easier, thanks to the “State of Cider” brand identity project initiated by the New York Cider Association (NYCA). The logo began appearing on bottles and cans this year to help drinkers recognize cider made in New York from 100% New York apples. The symbol celebrates the deep tradition of growing apples in the state, and the diversity and quality of New York cider. “We believe that this project will result in better apple crop evaluation and land preservation in key apple growing and cider making regions,” said Jenn Smith, NYCA Executive Director. New York is the State of Cider!
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A BOUT US
THE CIDER MAKERS at Angry Orchard have been experimenting with apple varieties, ingredients and aging processes to develop hard cider recipes for more than 20 years. The cider making team has traveled the world to find the best apples for cider making and to choose specific varieties based on each cider’s desired flavor profile. In fall 2015, Angry Orchard opened a home for research and development. The Cider House sits on a historic 60-acre apple orchard in Walden, NY. Here, the cider makers research and drive experimentation, and drinkers are welcome to visit for samples of exclusive ciders made on-site and some of the national favorites. Despite the recent growth of hard cider in the US, and the prevalence of cider in the Hudson Valley, the category is still small and relatively unknown. Angry Orchard is committed to drinker education and awareness-building to help grow the category for all craft cider makers. As part of the experience at the Cider House, drinkers are invited to take a selfguided tour that features vintage cider making equipment, an interactive exhibit about the history of cider in the US, as well as an in-depth look at the cider making process. Visitors will then spiral down through the cider production area to experience how cider is made firsthand, including specialty and barrel-aged styles made by the cider makers in New York using local apples. Finally, guests will make their way into the tasting room where drinkers 21+ can sample a flight of three Angry Orchard ciders and purchase additional drafts while enjoying the scenic view from outside on the lawn, next to the fire pit, or at the rustic table tops of the taproom. Angry Orchard makes a variety of year-round craft cider styles, including Angry Orchard Crisp Apple, a crisp and refreshing fruit-forward cider that blends the sweetness of culinary apples with dryness and bright acidity from bittersweet apples for a balanced flavor profile. Angry Orchard also makes The Cider House Collection, the orchard’s NY-based specialty ciders, and a variety of seasonal ciders. Angry Orchard will be offering guided tours of the Cidery and the Angry Orchard Tree House built by Animal Planet’s Treehouse Masters and guided tours of the Barrel Room. After your tour and flight you can enjoy draft ciders from Angry Orchard’s changing draft rotation. For more information, ticket pricing, and events visit the website www.angryorchard.com/visit-our-orchard. To find where Angry Orchard hard cider is served near you, visit the “cider finder” at www.angryorchard.com/cider-finder.
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MEET THE CIDER MAKER RYAN BURK
Ryan Burk is Angry Orchard’s head cider maker, based on-site at the Angry Orchard in the Hudson Valley. Ryan’s New York roots run deep. He grew up in Upstate New York and began hanging out on orchards around age six. He has always been interested in making cider and brewing beer, and experimented with both of these crafts during college and even after. Prior to joining the Angry Orchard team, Ryan racked up years of professional craft cider making experience, with a particular focus on cider barrel aging and varying fermentation processes.
VISIT OUR TAP ROOM, CIDER GARDEN, AND TREE HOUSE BUILT BY ANIMAL PLANET'S TREE HOUSE MASTERS.
IN THE SPOTLIGHT ANGRY ORCHARD ROSÉ
Drinkers are familiar with rosé wine, which continues to grow in popularity. This year, drinkers have a new, unexpected option: Angry Orchard Rosé hard cider, made with a delicious blend of apples including rare, red-fleshed apples from France. Angry Orchard Rosé delivers the crisp and refreshing qualities of cider with a rosy color and floral aroma. It is apple-forward in taste complimented by refreshing light tannins, similar to a semi-dry wine. Inspired by their love of rosé wines, the cider makers experimented with small batches of rosé cider for more than a year looking for the perfect blend of apples. Their experimentation took them to Brittany, France, where they found the unique red-fleshed apples, called Amour Rouge, or Red Love. When cut open, the apples are rosy inside. The cider makers blend six different apple varieties in this cider, but it’s the red-flesh French apples, along with a hint of hibiscus, that gives it its rosy hue.
CRISP APPLE EASY APPLE ROSÉ STONE DRY GREEN APPLE ORCHARD'S EDGE KNOTTY PEAR ORCHARD'S EDGE OLD FASHIONED CIDER HOUSE COLLECTION WALDEN HOLLOW SPECIALTY CIDERS DEVELOPED AND SOLD AT THE ORCHARD
THE ESSENTIALS NAME ANGRY ORCHARD
CLOSED New Year’s Day, Easter, Thanksgiving, Christmas
ADDRESS 2241 Albany Post Rd. Walden, NY 12586
TASTING FEES No charge
TOURS Tour options vary: $5.00–$25.00
FARM ACREAGE 60 acres
WEBSITE angryorchard.com OPEN Jan 1–June 16 Thurs–Sun: 11am–6pm June 19–Dec 31 Wed, Thurs, Sun: 11am–6pm Fri–Sat: 11am–8pm
MANAGER Jamie Corrao CIDER MAKERS Ryan Burk, head cider maker Patrick Commane, assistant cider maker
3rd SAT EVERY MONTH
Fresh Pressed Friday, Sunset Concert Series The WOLF Cider Jam Farm to Table Dinner Farmers Market
@AngryOrchard @AngryOrchard @angryorchard #ExploreTheOrchard #BranchOut
FROM I-84: Exit 5 to Albany Post Road at the intersection of Route 52. HVCiderGuide.com • 2019
AB OUT US
AT AWESTRUCK, THEIR NAME is their mission – sip by sip, glass by glass, their aim is to craft hard ciders that will leave you, well…awestruck. They have an insatiable thirst for tweaking, testing, and experimenting with apple varietals, yeast species, and botanical ingredients to push the boundaries of what hard cider can be. Awestruck’s three flagships are each unique, yet approachable. Hibiscus Ginger is rose-colored, fizzy and subtly spicy, like a tropical ginger ale; Lavender Hops is crafted by steeping cider with pounds and pounds of culinary dried lavender and citrusy hop varietals, at once aromatic and juicy; and Dry Apple + Oak captures the essence of artisanal fermentation—clean, faintly woody, subtly fruity, and deeply evocative of early autumn in upstate New York. After years working as contractors to fund their voracious appetite for travel and new taste discovery, Casey Vitti and Patti Wilcox returned to their hometown of Walton, NY, in 2013. Inspired by the abundance of fresh, delicious apples throughout the Hudson Valley, they created Awestruck to blend their home region’s apple growing heritage with their favorite flavors from around the world. From its humble roots in a 2,000-square-foot renovated section of a local lumberyard in Walton, Awestruck has grown from being entirely operated by the two founders into an industrious team of ten employees, collaboratively working on all aspects – from building the bar in the taproom, to composing the next social media post, to hand-labeling each of their 750ml bottles. Market Manager Jessica Hubbard says it best: “How many people get to say that they can work hard and play hard, all while on the clock?!” Awestruck’s true passion is creating limited and seasonal offerings, experimenting with new ingredients, and satisfying their thirst to produce unique tastes and experiences. They work with local orchardists and farmers and are proud to make all their ciders from pure, fresh-pressed New York state apples—never from concentrate, and never watered down. As part of their recent expansion, Awestruck opened a taproom at their 8,000square-foot production facility in Sidney, NY. What started with an ice bucket on a rickety wooden table just a few years ago has evolved into a cozy bar-restaurant with seventeen rotating taps of unique and limited offerings, along with a variety of local craft beers. At the taproom you can taste one-off ciders that are made individually, one keg at a time. You can sit aboard a 1970s school bus, situated inside adjacent to the bar, and compose magnetic poetry on the walls and ceiling. You can also enjoy a small, comfort-food menu designed to pair with Awestruck ciders and satisfy hungry customers.
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MEET THE OWNERS CASEY VITTI AND PATTI WILCOX
When Casey and Patti founded Awestruck, they set out to craft complex and captivating ciders. They had been enjoying ciders overseas for many years, and were excited by the new and different hard ciders cropping up throughout the United States. From sweet and juicy to dry and funky and everywhere in-between, they were captivated by the boundless variety of cider available. They saw cider as the perfect base from which to create their own blends, and by incorporating botanicals like hibiscus, ginger, lavender, and hops, they could share their passion for unique drinks inspired by their travels around the world. Casey and Patti understand how intimidating it can be to new cider drinkers to have such a broad variety to choose from. To help people discover this fun and exciting beverage, they put lengthy descriptions and slider bars on every bottle of Awestruck so each person can pick their perfect hard cider right at the shelf. The best part of being Awestruck? For Casey and Patti, it’s getting to work with a supportive network – the hardworking team at Awestruck and their suppliers, distributors, and retailers – and to see that their idea for a unique product is sought out and enjoyed by a community of truly awe-inspiring customers.
IN THE SPOTLIGHT NEW FLAVOR LAUNCHES
Awestruck is excited about their new flavor launches this year, including the best-selling seasonal, Hometown Homicider, made with apples, pumpkins, spices, and cider aged nine months in local Bourbon barrels. And (spoiler alert), they have a few other surprises up their sleeves, including two brand new, ultralimited can releases! Stay in the loop with everything Awestruck by following them on Facebook and Instagram where you’ll find updates like expanded summer Tap Room hours and special events. There is also information on where to find Awestruck in stores and at farmers markets and festivals throughout the year.
HIBISCUS GINGER LAVENDER HOPS DRY APPLE + OAK LOVESTRUCK HOMETOWN HOMICIDER SUMMER SOLSTICE WINTER SOLTICE VIKING SAHTI
TASTING FEE $10.00, includes tour
ADDRESS 8 Winkler Rd. Sidney, NY 13838
PRODUCTION 3,500 cases
EMAIL email@example.com WEBSITE awestruckciders.com
OWNERS Patricia Willcox and Casey Vitti CIDER MAKERS Casey Vitti, Derek Tallman, Bridget Rice
OPEN Year round Thurs–Sat: 3–10pm CLOSED New Year’s Day, Thanksgiving, Christmas
EVENTS: SEPT OCT
FOLLOW US: Hudson Valley Wine & Food Festival
Bethel Woods Wine Festival
GETTING HERE FROM I-88 NORTH OR SOUTH: Exit 9, then head north on NY-8 for approximately one mile. Turn left onto River Street and then turn right into the Sidney Industrial Park on Winkler Road. Awestruck is the third building on the left as you enter, just 4 minutes off I-88.
FARM MARKETS: Pakatakan Farmer’s Market, Callicoon Farmer’s Market
HVCiderGuide.com • 2019
BAD SEED CIDER CO.
AB OUT US
IT’S THE KIND OF IDEA you get after a few drinks at the local pub. “Hey, let’s start a cider company!” Then it’s forgotten the next day. But Albert Wilklow and Devin Britton, two guys in Highland, NY, actually followed through with it.
MEET THE CIDER MAKERS
It didn’t hurt that Albert was a sixth generation apple farmer, and Devin enjoyed brewing and fermenting anything that sounded like it had promise to make a tasty beverage. But ever since the summer of 2011, when these two childhood friends banded together with meager savings and a love of cider, they have been crafting, selling, and talking everything cider. It’s their pastime, their passion, their life.
Since the beginning, they have always had a single-minded goal to bring handcrafted, truly dry cider to the world. The Bad Seed tap room has a unique atmosphere, and the unique bar menu offers up tempting small bites that pair brilliantly with its unique ciders. It spans two floors, and offers a wide selection of ciders, all geared towards one goal – to advance the craft cider industry by combining both old and new cider techniques and craft beer influences. It’s not uncommon at Bad Seed to taste a cider fermented with an American Ale yeast and dry-hopped, next to a traditional dry French-style cider, or a raspberry cider made with raspberries grown right on the farm. Bad Seed ciders are made from 100% fresh pressed apples grown on this sixth generation family farm. There’s no alchemy involved – after all this is cider, not science. You won’t find the endless list of chemicals, artificial sweeteners, and excuses on a Bad Seed label, because they aren’t used.
THE BAD SEED TAP ROOM HAS A UNIQUE ATMOSPHERE, AND ROTATING FOOD TRUCKS OFFER UP TEMPTING SMALL BITES THAT PAIR BRILLIANTLY WITH ITS UNIQUE CIDERS.
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“I like to drink cider.” That’s Devin Britton’s mantra; the Bad Seed cider maker says it several times over the course of a tour of Bad Seed’s facility. His more than 10 years of crafting ciders has done nothing to dampen his enthusiasm for downing a cider or three. It’s what drives him to create new twists on classic styles. His signature Bad Seed Cider? “The IPC, our hopped cider. It’s really dry, but I basically dry-hop the hell out of it with two additions of big American hops, so it has a neat, hoppy aroma, and some fruity, tropical flavors.” ALBERT THE FARMER
“Because Bad Seed is located on our apple orchard, we source fruit as much as possible from our own farm,” Albert says. “So, when we make something and say it’s locally handcrafted, it means we’ve picked it, we’ve processed it – it’s literally gone from fruit to glass right here.” His signature Bad Seed Cider? “The Original Dry, absolutely. It’s light and dry, actually dry with 0 grams of sugar.”
IN THE SPOTLIGHT NEW! BAD SEED FARM BAR
With 12 taps to taste your way through, this is the place in the Hudson Valley for both apple picking and drinking. If you are interested in some sustenance while cidering, there are lots of options to pair with your cider—from fresh cider doughnuts to freshly picked-by-you apples, or a creation from the onsite food truck. The Farm Bar is open seasonally at Bad Seed’s pick-your-own farm from September 1 to October 31, Saturdays 12-7pm and Sundays 12-6pm.
THE ESSENTIALS BROOKLYN TAP ROOM
This is Brooklyn’s destination for Bad Seed Cider and other Hudson Valley and New York State craft beverages. With 20 rotating taps and more options available by the bottle, if you’re looking to dive deep into craft cider or just relax with a pint, you’re covered.
ORIGINAL DRY CIDER INDIA PALE CIDER RASPBERRY CIDER RUM BARREL AGED CIDER BOURBON BARREL AGED CIDER GINGER HARD CIDER
NAME BAD SEED CIDER CO. ADDRESS 43 Baileys Gap Rd. Highland, NY 12528 Bad Seed Farm Bar (seasonally): 341 Pancake Hollow Rd. Highland, NY 12528 Brooklyn Taproom: 585 Franklin Ave. Brooklyn, NY 11238 PHONE 845-236-0956 EMAIL Info@BadSeedHardCider.com WEBSITE BadSeedHardCider.com OPEN Year round Sat: 12–7pm Sun: 12–6pm
EVENTS: Visit the website or Facebook page for updates on events.
GETTING HERE FROM I-87: Exit 18 (New Paltz/Poughkeepsie) to NY-299 E. Continue 2.3 miles and turn right onto Highland-Lloyd Rd./New Paltz Rd. Turn right onto Pancake Hollow Rd. Drive 2.8 miles then make slight left onto Baileys Gap Rd. Follow Baileys Gap Rd. to Bad Seed Cider on the left.
CLOSED New Year’s Day, Easter, Thanksgiving, Christmas TASTING FEE Tasting paddle – $10.00 TOURS $10.00 (tickets on website) FARM ACREAGE 200+ acres PRODUCTION 5,000 cases OWNERS Devin Britton, Albert Wilklow, Bram Kincheloe (Sales & Marketing) CIDER MAKER Devin Britton
FARM MARKETS (Saturdays):
Fort Greene Park, Brooklyn
HVCiderGuide.com • 2019
BROOKLYN CIDER HOUSE AT TWIN STAR ORCHARDS
A BOUT US
IT ALL STARTED IN THE FOOTHILLS of Urnieta and Hernani in the Basque Country. Peter Yi, a wine buyer, took a break from tasting wines to visit a sagardotegi. It was a gastronomic experience like no other: simple, farm-fresh menus paired with natural cider caught straight from the barrel. It was a thunderbolt moment and not long after his trip, driving north on the FDR on an unusually clear spring night, he told his sister Susan, “We need to make a cider house in Brooklyn.” He was dead serious, and within weeks Peter walked away from a business he built for 25 years, and Susan quit teaching to study apples and hard cider. That was the spring of 2014. They didn’t know a bushel from a bin of apples. What they did know was that they wanted to make a wildly natural cider. In very little time, the Yi siblings have come so far. They revitalized a Hudson Valley orchard, where they have built a cidery, tasting room, farm store, and pavilion that serves wood-fired pizza and burgers. Their cider facilities at Twin Star Orchards are open from April through the first week of November for tastings and food, and visitors may pick their own “ugly apples” in the fall.
MEET THE FOUNDERS PETER YI
Peter Yi was the owner of PJ Wine, a leading wine retailer, before he jumped ship to start Brooklyn Cider House. He is known for his fearless honesty about wines, his creative pairings, and his marathon-like ability to taste hundreds of wines and still pick out the winners. Peter is the cider maker, visionary, and driving force. His honesty, creativity, and fearlessness are exactly why Brooklyn Cider House has made so much headway in so little time. SUSAN YI
In December 2017, after two and a half years of red tape and arduous construction, they finally opened their flagship Brooklyn location, which houses a full-scale cidery, restaurant, bar, and tasting room. Brooklyn Cider House is an urban interpretation of a sagardotegi, a fully-immersive cider experience where one can catch Raw cider directly from Asturian barrels in between courses of Basque-inspired foods. At Brooklyn Cider House, one simple ingredient is used to make ciders – apples – so the structure, aromas, mouthfeel, and any residual sugar are definitively tied to the quality of their apples. All their ciders are made from freshly harvested, handpicked apples; fermented in stainless steel tanks with wild or wine yeast; and aged between two to 12 months. They make their ciders with minimal intervention and strive for balance, depth of structure, and allusions to terroir. At Twin Star, they’re determined to grow the best raw materials for their cider using sustainable methods. They believe that “ugly apples taste better” than most commercial apples which are usually perfect-looking and uniform in size. They currently have more than 100 acres of ugly apples in full production that supply much of their cider making and have planted 8,000 baby trees of rare hard cider varieties and high-acid, disease-resistant heirloom varieties. They expect to source all their apples from the farm within a few years and to be a supplier of apples for other New York cider makers in three to four years, once the new trees are in full production.
PHOTOS: Elizabeth Breeden (left); Jordan Hayman (center, right): Young Kim (opposite page)
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Before Brooklyn Cider House, Susan Yi was a teacher at The Town School in Manhattan. She is a social activist and a lover of creative things. Susan was born in Korea, raised in Brooklyn, and currently lives in Gowanus, Brooklyn. She is a storyteller, bringing truth and compassion to the project.
IN THE SPOTLIGHT RAW!
Inspired by the cider tradition in the Basque Country, Brooklyn Cider House wanted to make a dry, wildly natural cider with beautiful acidity, and they were excited to see what spin New York apples would give to this style of cider. They discovered that the incredible acidity of New York apples really packs a punch, in the true spirit of Brooklyn! Their Raw cider is fresh and mouth-puckering with crisp green apple and citrus aromas. Raw undergoes three fermentations with wild and wine yeasts, making it an earthy cider remarkably expressive of its terroir. It is aged on the lees for a minimum of 6 months. You can try three to four different styles of Raw straight from the barrels, only available on-site at the new Bushwick location. HALF SOUR
Half Sour won “Best Cider” and a gold medal in the 2017 Hudson Valley Wine & Spirits competition. It begins with aromas of wild flowers and honey, followed by a hint of pickled pear. The light carbonation and touch of sweetness make this off-dry cider friendly and versatile for food pairing. Like Raw, Half Sour undergoes a third fermentation, which is stopped midway to introduce those sour notes that tickle the tongue and leave you feeling completely refreshed.
KINDA DRY HALF SOUR BONE DRY
LIMITED RELEASE SOLSTICE WILD ROSE
THE ESSENTIALS NAME BROOKLYN CIDER HOUSE
CLOSED Nov 4, 2019–Apr 2, 2020
ADDRESS Tasting Room & Orchard: 155 N. Ohioville Rd. New Paltz, NY 12561
TASTING FEE $5.00
Cidery, Restaurant & Bar: 1100 Flushing Ave. Brooklyn, NY 11237 PHONE 845-633-8657 EMAIL firstname.lastname@example.org WEBSITE BrooklynCiderHouse.com
TOURS Call or email to schedule group tours FARM ACREAGE 210 acres OWNERS/FOUNDERS Peter Yi (Twin Star Orchards) Susan Yi (Brooklyn Cider House) CIDER MAKER Peter Yi
OPEN Thurs–Sun and holiday Mondays; call or visit the website for hours
GETTING HERE FROM I-87: Exit 18 (New Paltz/Poughkeepsie), then merge right onto NY-299 E. Drive about 1/8 mile, and at the intersection of Ohioville Rd., turn left onto North Ohioville Rd. Continue for 1.2 miles. The orchard/tasting room will be on the left side.
Hudson Valley Cider Week Bash
Pig Roasts and Live Music Events
Visit our website or Facebook page for updates on events.
@twinstarorchards @BrooklynCiderHouse @twinstarorchards @Bkciderhouse @twinstarorchards @brooklynciderhouse
HVCiderGuide.com • 2019
DOC’S DRAFT HARD CIDER
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AS THE FIRST CIDERY IN NEW YORK STATE since Prohibition, Doc’s has had over 20 years experience in fine tuning and perfecting the craft. The staff at Doc’s is proud to use only 100% New York fruit, and the success of Doc’s Cider is due to this insistence on using the finest fruit available. When it’s not sourced from the onsite orchard, Doc’s purchases fresh market fruit from local growers that the staff knows personally. The Doc's Draft Hard Cider story began in 1989, when two doctors purchased an orchard in Warwick, NY, and began to learn how to cultivate fruit. Local apple growers and extension agents taught them the basics and contributed to the early success. As a result of an abundant apple crop they began to experiment with hard cider. Soon they were hooked. They applied for and received a farm winery license and cider producer license in 1993—and Doc’s was born. Doors opened to the public in the fall of 1994. In the early days, they had three wines and one cider, all of which were, frankly, a bit unrefined. Their inexperience was as evident as their enthusiasm, but they persevered to create higher quality wines and cider. Every vintage improved as they honed their skills and continued to learn the art and science of wine and cider making. Eventually, hard work paid off, leading to the development of the criticallyacclaimed Doc’s Draft Hard Apple Cider. In 2002, current owners Jeremy Kidde and Jason Grizzanti set out to build the Doc’s Cider brand. After purchasing a used bottling line and three head keg filler, they increased production enough to expand beyond the farm winery tasting room and local farm markets. Every week, they would load up the truck and sell the cider door to door in New York City. Soon, Doc’s Draft started to be known for its fresh, natural taste, and they quickly added distribution to nearby states. Today, Doc’s Hard Cider is available in 25 states and three countries, with more growth on the horizon. Proclaims owner Jeremy Kidde, “We did it first and we do it best.” Doc’s Draft Hard Apple Cider is now available in four year-round varieties (Original Apple, Pear, Raspberry, and Hopped ), as well as six seasonal offerings (Cassis, Sour Cherry, Peach, Pumpkin, Cranberry, and Gold Rush).
TODAY, DOC’S HARD CIDER IS AVAILABLE IN 25 STATES AND THREE COUNTRIES, WITH MORE GROWTH ON THE HORIZON.
14 CIDER GUIDE • 2019
MEET THE CIDER MAKER COOPER GRANEY
Cooper Graney, head cider maker, started with Doc’s Cider in 2005, when he was still in high school. He worked weekends and eventually after school on the bottling line and stocking the tasting room shelves. He learned from owner (and then cider maker) Jason Grizzanti that you could go to school to learn the science behind cider and wine. In 2007, Cooper headed off to the Virginia Tech Food Science and Technology program, while continuing to work at Doc’s in the summers. His return home in 2013 coincided with Jason’s shift of focus to the Black Dirt Distillery Project, and a Head Cider Maker was born. It took Cooper years of studying to realize that cider making is an art, not a science. Although the science certainly comes in handy, it can’t teach you how to make the same cider in July as you do in December. Good thing there’s a lot of tasting involved.
IN THE SPOTLIGHT DOC’S GOLD RUSH CIDER
While the rest of the Doc’s line relies on a base of Doc’s Original, the Gold Rush Hard Cider is dry and distinctive. Doc’s uses 100% organic Gold Rush apples and the Keeving fermentation method that takes over three months, resulting in a dry, crisp, appleforward product reminiscent of a French farmhouse cider. Enjoy it on hot days, over ice. Get it when you see it because it doesn’t last long! WOOD FIRED PIES
The pizzas at the Pane Café at the Warwick Valley Winery Tasting Room are a Hudson Valley favorite. A wood-fired pizza oven is set up next to the outdoor grill, so get ready for some new pies. WE CAN DO IT!
Doc’s Cider is now available in cans for all of your cider-ing needs.
DOC’S DRAFT HARD APPLE CIDER DOC’S DRAFT PEAR HARD CIDER DOC’S DRAFT RASPBERRY HARD CIDER DOC’S DRAFT DRY HOPPED HARD CIDER DOC’S DRAFT PUMPKIN HARD CIDER DOC’S DRAFT SOUR CHERRY HARD CIDER
THE ESSENTIALS NAME DOC’S DRAFT HARD CIDER ADDRESS 114 Little York Rd. Warwick, NY 10990
CLOSED New Year’s Day, Easter, Thanksgiving, Christmas TASTING FEE $5.00
TOURS $15.00 (distillery tour)
FARM ACREAGE 100 acres
PRODUCTION 75,000 cases
OPEN Year round Mon–Fri: 11am–6pm Sat–Sun: 11am–6pm
OWNERS Jeremy Kidde, Jason Grizzanti, Joseph Grizzanti CIDER MAKER Cooper Graney
GETTING HERE FROM NYC & NJ: Take Rt.17 north into New York State toward Albany (I-87) to Exit 15A, Sloatsburg. Make a left off exit onto Rt. 17. Continue on Rt.17 north for 7 miles, then turn left onto Rt. 17A. Stay on Rt. 17A for approximately 17 miles into Warwick. At the intersection of Rt.17A and Rt. 94 turn left onto Rt. 94. Proceed on Rt. 94 for 1/4 of a mile, then make a right onto Little York Rd. The tasting room is 1 mile on the right.
Live music every weekend
Dylan-Fest, Cash & Country, Dead-Fest
See the calendar at wvwinery.com
FARM MARKETS: Warwick, Nyack, Goshen, Cold Spring, Tarrytown
HVCiderGuide.com • 2019
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WHEN THEIR FAMILY ACQUIRED a 60-acre apple orchard seven years ago, the Covino brothers—Alex, Kevin, and Ben—immediately began tinkering with the idea of putting their apple crop to good use. And with the recent upswing in the popularity of hard cider, it seemed only logical to try their hand at the craft. Harvest Moon Farm and Orchard, formerly Outhouse Orchard, was purchased by local nursery owner Rob Covino in 2010. The orchard was home to 60 acres of culinary apple trees and a variety of other stone fruit and vegetables. Culinary apples aren’t as sought after as traditional cider fruit, but the Covino brothers were driven by Teddy Roosevelt’s quote: “Do what you can, with what you have, where you are”. The brothers, each with a degree in horticulture and years of experience working on their family’s nursery, had the background knowledge needed to keep the orchard flourishing to ensure a healthy crop. Utilizing the apple varieties at their disposal, their goal was to ultimately craft a light, crisp hard cider that embodied drinkability. After years of experimentation, they created a cider which truly reflected the crop: an off-dry cider with strong apple flavor and aroma. No extra sugar is added; freshpressed sweet cider is introduced post-fermentation to enhance the taste and to ensure the final product isn’t overly dry. You won’t find preservatives or additives either. The brothers choose to batch pasteurize each and every bottle to ensure a clean and natural product. “It was our goal to make a truly craft beverage. We press the apples that go into the cider. We fill, pasteurize, and label every bottle.” Success with their Dry and Standard recipes led the brothers to get creative with other varieties, such as Cranberry—a semi-dry tart cider that incorporates fresh cranberries—and Fruit of the Farm, a sweeter variety that incorporates peaches, nectarines, and blueberries into the blend. Their Citra cider, one of the most popular to date, involves fermenting their cider over citra hops. It’s a hit with cider and beer lovers alike. Newer varieties, such as Ginger Lemon, Beet, and Jalapeno Cucumber will be available this spring. The recent planting of over 1,000 cidervariety apple trees will lead to even more experimentation down the road. A nod to cider’s history in this country, Hardscrabble Cider features an Americana theme – and the tasting room attempts to embody the same feel. The walls are lined with reclaimed barnwood, emblems of American history hang on display, and quality hand-crafted beverages are readily available. In addition to their cider (sold by the bottle, pint, and flight), the tasting room features New York craft beer (on tap and by the bottle), liquor, cordials, and wine. With a newly renovated and expanded outdoor patio and a new wood-fired pizza oven, expect bigger and better events throughout the spring, summer, and fall, with a continuation of their weekend live music pizza parties.
16 CIDER GUIDE • 2019
MEET THE CIDER MAKERS ALEX COVINO KEVIN COVINO BEN COVINO ANTHONY SEPE
“Mixing business and pleasure is such a difficult thing to do, but our foray into the cider business has allowed us to do just that,” says owner and cider maker Kevin Covino. Brothers Alex, Kevin, and Ben, horticulturists by trade with degrees in plant science, had dabbled with beer and wine making as a hobby with little success. It was as if fate, and a bit of good fortune, brought them an apple orchard right down the road from their family’s nursery. “The orchard had always been U-Pick for the fall, but we wanted to do more with the apples,” says oldest brother, Alex. “Cider seemed like the obvious choice.” The Covino brothers grew up in Brewster, NY, and began working on their family’s nursery in their early teens. They each studied horticulture at Rhode Island University. After graduating, they helped their father run the business, with Kevin soon taking over as manager of the newly-acquired orchard. Family friend and fellow craft beverage enthusiast, Anthony Sepe, joined the team last year to focus on management and production. Anthony’s thirst for creativity has come in handy as a cider maker, as he is constantly experimenting with fresh fruits, vegetables, and herbs to craft unique and exciting ciders. All members of the team have the same goal in mind: to bring the public a delicious craft beverage that embodies the terroir. You can often find members of the team on site enjoying a hard cider in the tasting room.
IN THE SPOTLIGHT CIDER IN THE GREAT OUTDOORS
Customers can enjoy their food and beverages on the outdoor patio, open all week during the spring, summer, and fall. Hardscrabble Cider is available by the bottle, pint, and flight. In addition to the hard cider, there is a great selection of New York State craft beer on tap. Burgers, sandwiches, salads, and other delicious menu items are available through the Harvest Moon kitchen. The patio remains open until 9pm on Friday and Saturday nights with wood-fired pizza, live music, and cider. Hardscrabble Cider is planning multiple cider-related events this spring, summer, and fall, in addition to the annual fall festival every weekend throughout September and October. Check the website and social media for updates on hours and events. NEW SMALL-BATCH CIDERS
Expect a variety of new small batches and experimental ciders in the tasting room throughout the season. Small batches will utilize the recently planted cider-apple varieties, as well as many of the other fruits, vegetables, and herbs grown on the orchard.
BLACK DIRT BEET CITRA CRANBERRY DRY FRUIT OF THE FARM THE STANDARD
THE ESSENTIALS NAME HARDSCRABBLE CIDER
CLOSED New Year’s Day, Easter, Christmas
ADDRESS 130 Hardscrabble Rd. North Salem, NY 10560
TASTING FEE $12.00 per flight
PHONE 914-485-1210 EMAIL email@example.com WEBSITE hardscrabbleciderny.com OPEN Jan–Mar Fri–Sun: 10am–5pm Apr–Dec Mon–Thurs: 10am–6pm Fri–Sat: 10am–9pm Sun: 10am–6pm
TOURS start at $10.00 per person FARM ACREAGE 62 acres PRODUCTION 1,500 cases OWNERS Alex Covino, Kevin Covino, Ben Covino MANAGER Anthony Sepe CIDER MAKERS Alex Covino, Kevin Covino, Ben Covino, Anthony Sepe
GETTING HERE FROM 684 [NORTH OR SOUTH]: Exit 8, Hardscrabble Road. Make a right off the exit and continue approximately ¾ of a mile down Hardscrabble Road. The orchard (Harvest Moon Farm and Orchard) will be on the left-hand side. The tasting room is attached to the main building. You can enter through the main building or through the patio.
FOLLOW US: Live Music Pizza Parties, Fridays and Saturdays, 6–9pm
Fall Festival at Harvest Moon,
Saturdays and Sundays
FARM MARKET: Harvest Moon Farm & Orchard (on premise)
HVCiderGuide.com • 2019
AB OUT US
HELDERBERG MEADWORKS began in 2012 producing a single mead with a mission: to bring truly handcrafted mead to the people. That mead was called Heritage and the people welcomed it with open arms. It quickly became clear that Helderberg could spread their creative wings and introduce more varieties to the market. Apple Mead was born! While creating the local sourced cyser, Helderberg was creating an amazing hard cider as part of the process. So with the same passion and vigor, meadmaker Peter Voelker set forth perfecting his hard cider craft by applying the knowledge and experience he gained while developing Helderberg Meadworks’ many varieties of mead. Over the past couple of years, Helderberg’s hard cider was introduced on a limited basis while Peter was building the new tasting room where his ciders are now exclusively available. Helderberg’s philosophy of using all-natural ingredients as much as possible extends to their ciders which are handcrafted to suit the makers’ personal tastes. This natural approach brings out the best fresh-apple flavors possible, resulting in ciders that stand out remarkably well in the crowded marketplace.
MEET THE CIDER/MEAD MAKER PETER VOELKER
Peter Voelker is an Engineer with a creative flair. His love for creating something personal and unique, combined with a passion for history, drove him to begin experimenting with and studying about mead. He was born in NYC and has lived his life in the Hudson Valley and Capital regions. He got his start making homebrew beer as soon as he graduated college, then quickly branched out into other fermented beverages. He began making mead over 20 years ago and has been perfecting it ever since.
Helderberg’s Classic Semi-Dry hard cider is distinct. It is aged for a minimum of six months using an aging process that provides micro-oxidation similar to that of a neutral cask. This allows the cider to develop its natural profile slowly. Each harvest is unique, therefore the cider is not blended from year to year. Much like the view from the tasting room, there are slight variations that are embraced each year to create a hard cider that is a truly a celebration of the apples!
Having discovered through genealogical research that he is a descendant of the first King of Norway, Harald Fairhair, Peter developed a traditional mead that he would feel honored to raise in a toast with his ancestor. In honor of that link, the label for Heritage was designed to include the “Swords in Mountain” monument of three bronze swords standing 30 feet tall. That monument was erected in Stavanger, Norway to commemorate King Harald’s historic final battle of Hafrsfjord.
THIS NATURAL APPROACH BRINGS OUT THE BEST FRESH-APPLE FLAVORS POSSIBLE, RESULTING IN CIDERS THAT STAND OUT REMARKABLY WELL IN THE CROWDED MARKETPLACE.
Peter, along with his wife Kirsten, manage every aspect of the business. With an excellent staff of five and growing, they continue to focus on keeping up with demand—all while maintaining their full-time jobs and raising two active, young boys.
18 CIDER GUIDE • 2019
IN THE SPOTLIGHT NEW TASTING ROOM!
2019 marks the opening of the Helderberg Meadworks Meadhall! After six years of selling wholesale and at festivals, Helderberg is happy to have a place to call home. Thanks to the success of Helderberg’s mead and after an exhaustive search, in 2015 the Voelker’s purchased more land to expand their small orchard and add a vineyard. While they were working hard to clear the land and plant rows of fruit, they were able to appreciate the beauty of the location and the expansive view overlooking the mountains. It was clear that this was to be the spot for the tasting room— the perfect place to relax and enjoy mead and cider. At the new tasting room, customers can enjoy Helderberg ciders by the glass or growler, indoors or out. In addition to the Classic Semi-dry Cider and the popular Cassis Cider, there will be new products, as well as small batch experimentals to choose from. Maple, Sweet Maple, Naturally Fermented Dry, and NY Cherry Ciders will all be available this year. Visit the Helderberg Meadhall and enjoy the beautiful view of three counties and the rolling hillside—best while sipping a glass of hard cider at sunset on the porch.
CLASSIC SEMI-DRY HARD CIDER MAPLE HARD CIDER CASSIS CIDER SWEET MAPLE CIDER
THE ESSENTIALS NAME HELDERBERG MEADWORKS ADDRESS 6144 State Highway 30 Esperance, NY 12066
CLOSED New Year’s Day, Easter, Thanksgiving, Christmas TASTING FEE $5.00; $10.00 with souvenir glass
FARM ACREAGE 8.4 acres
PRODUCTION 1,000 cases
OPEN Jan–Feb Sat: 12–5pm Mar–Dec Fri: 5–9pm Sat: 12–5pm Sun: 12–5pm
OWNERS Peter and Kirsten Voelker MANAGERS Peter and Kirsten Voelker CIDER/MEAD MAKER Peter Voelker
GETTING HERE FROM NYS THRUWAY I-90: Exit 25A, I-88. Take I-88 to Exit 24, then Route 20 West for nine miles. Turn right onto State Hwy 30 North for two miles. Meadhall is on the right.
Hudson-Berkshire Wine & Food Fest
Capital District Renaissance Festival
Adirondack Wine & Food Fest
Capital Region Apple & Wine Fest
Taste NY Holiday Market
@Helderberg Meadworks @Meadworks @meadworks
FARM MARKET: Jay Street Sunday Market (May–Sept)
HVCiderGuide.com • 2019
KETTLEBOROUGH CIDER HOUSE
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KETTLEBOROUGH CIDER HOUSE originated on Dressel Farms in New Paltz, NY, and began producing small-batch hard cider in 2012. After graduating from Cornell in 2007, Tim Dressel originally intended to open a craft winery, and immediately began growing wine grapes. While waiting for the new vineyard to come to maturity, the hard cider craze began sweeping the nation. Given how many apples Dressel Farms grew, it seemed only logical to shift attention from wine to hard cider. The winery dream never went away, however, and its ciders are noticeably influenced by winemaking techniques and styles. The mentality behind Kettleborough’s cider making practices is firmly rooted (pun intended) in its orchard-centric approach. Dressel Farms has been growing highquality apples for more than 60 years, so the makers understand that without good fruit, good cider isn’t possible. Ask any cider (or wine) maker and they’ll tell you that proper chemistry in their juice can make or break the final product. Kettleborough relies heavily on a scientific methodology to agriculture and cider making, working closely with Cornell Extension horticulturalists, pomologists, and entomologists to make sure it utilizes the most effective and sustainable growing techniques available today. Ironically, Kettleborough has also planted numerous heirloom apple varieties, known for their superior hard cider qualities, that have been recently resurrected from near extinction. While it’s easy to say that Kettleborough is out to make America a cider-drinking country again, its goal is simply to bring the best product possible to its customers. It’s still a very small operation, providing the advantage of freedom to experiment and create the way it wants to, on its own agenda. Kettleborough believes that by making quality ciders and educating consumers on the dynamic range of flavors and styles that ciders can bring, it can ensure a bright future for hard cider in the USA.
DRESSEL FARMS HAS BEEN GROWING HIGH-QUALITY APPLES FOR MORE THAN 60 YEARS, SO THE MAKERS UNDERSTAND THAT WITHOUT GOOD FRUIT, GOOD CIDER ISN’T POSSIBLE.
20 CIDER GUIDE • 2019
MEET THE OWNER TIM DRESSEL
Tim Dressel is a fourth generation apple grower on Dressel Farms in New Paltz, NY. He graduated from Cornell University’s College of Agriculture and Life Sciences in 2007 and returned to work on the family farm. While attending Cornell he developed an appreciation for the wine industry that thrives in the Finger Lakes, and wanted to bring the craft fermenting business home with him. Starting with nothing more than 5-gallon carboys in his parents’ basement, Tim taught himself to turn the sweet cider his family is known for into what would eventually become known as Kettleborough Dry Cider.
IN THE SPOTLIGHT HEIRLOOM APPLES
Since 2008, Kettleborough has been sporadically planting small lots of European and American heirloom hard cider apple varieties. In 2016, after years of new plantings and growth, the yield was finally good enough to create the first commercial cider release made entirely from these ancient apples. Huguenot Cider, named after the original French settlers of New Paltz, is an homage to classic French cider making. True to form, it is dry, tannic, and a little bit funky. A must-try for any cider purist!
THE ESSENTIALS NAME KETTLEBOROUGH CIDER HOUSE
TASTING FEE Varies: $1.00–10.00
ADDRESS 277 State Route 208 New Paltz, NY 12561
DRY CIDER HONEY HONEY CIDER HUGUENOT CIDER LIGHTLY HOPPED CIDER
EMAIL firstname.lastname@example.org WEBSITE kettleboroughciderhouse.com OPEN May–Nov Fri: 3–9pm Sat: 12–9pm Sun: 12–5pm
FARM ACREAGE 100 acres PRODUCTION 1,000 cases OWNER Tim and Kristin Dressel MANAGER Kristin Dressel CIDER MAKER Tim Dressel
CLOSED New Year’s Day, Easter Thanksgiving, Christmas
EVENTS: JULY (TBA)
FOLLOW US: New Paltz Fireworks Party
Visit the website or Facebook page for
GETTING HERE FROM I-87: Exit 18 (New Paltz). Turn left onto Route 299. Continue through New Paltz and turn left onto Route 208. Continue on Route 208 for about 2.5 miles to Dressel Farms.
updates on events.
@kettleborough @newpaltzcider @kettleboroughcider
HVCiderGuide.com • 2019
NAKED FLOCK HARD CIDER
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NAKED FLOCK HARD CIDER is proud to be a pioneer in the Craft Beverage movement in the Hudson Valley. The company began making hard cider in 1996. “We’re introducing people to a true Hudson Valley hard cider,” says Jonathan Hull, creator of Naked Flock Hard Cider. “Our cider is for people who crave unique flavor and are on the hunt for quality.” When he created Naked Flock Hard Cider, the goal was to make a more natural style, and move away from the commercial ciders. Naked Flock Hard Cider began with two styles: Original, made with a Champagne yeast and local wildflower honey; and Draft, made with a Belgian Trappist Ale yeast and a hint of organic maple syrup. Later a seasonal Pumpkin was added, made with fresh roasted sugar pumpkins. In 2013, a Citra cider was made with Citra hops that produce a drier taste with a burst of citrus in the finish. Many have said it’s like an IPA meets a cider. The ciders are made from a blend of 100% locally grown Hudson Valley apples. Naked Flock Hard Cider isn’t made from apple juice concentrate and water, but from fresh pressed Hudson Valley apples. “That’s why you get a big apple nose when you open a bottle,” says Hull. As the cider market continues to grow, so does the Naked Flock. New flavors are always introduced – such as Lemon Ginger, Basil Mint, and Rose – to push the edges of how people think about cider. On any weekend in the tasting room, you can find a minimum selection of six styles with a frequently rotating tap line that features new and experimental cider styles and flavors. Cider is offered by the glass, growler fills, bottles, and cans. Where does the name Naked Flock come from? It’s a story in local folklore about a local pastor who received a gift of poppy seeds from Moby Dick author Herman Melville. Geese got into the flowers and passed out in the field. Thought dead, they were plucked for their feathers. They awoke and staggered around naked, creating quite a stir in the pastor’s own flock, who demanded they be put down. But the pastor stood his ground. “The name is a tribute to our town and the pastor who celebrated the surprises in life,” added Hull.
ON ANY WEEKEND IN THE TASTING ROOM, YOU CAN FIND A FREQUENTLY ROTATING TAP LINE THAT FEATURES NEW AND EXPERIMENTAL CIDER STYLES AND FLAVORS.
22 CIDER GUIDE • 2019
MEET THE OWNERS Jonathan and Michele Hull are the owners of Naked Flock. Jonathan, the cidermaster, grew up on the family farm at Applewood. After living in New York City and graduating from New York University he returned to his agricultural roots. The idea of starting a winery and cidery was beginning to ferment. In 2012, after graduating from Cornell University, son Dylan Hull joined the family business. Dylan is responsible for introducing Naked Flock to the public through restaurants, bars, and retail shops across New York and New Jersey. He attends craft cider events, offering tastings and finding out what people want. This enables him to work with Jonathan developing new styles and flavors. On a quest to define what a true Hudson Valley cider is, Hull says, “Hudson Valley cider should have a Hudson Valley taste. I’m not defining what a Hudson Valley taste is, but it should reflect the terroir and the culture. We are far more experimental in our approach than Old World ciders.”
IN THE SPOTLIGHT NAKED FLOCK ROSÉ — JUST IN TIME FOR SUMMER!
Toes in the sand, Naked Flock Rosé in hand! Made with New York apples and essence of rose petals, Naked Flock Rosé has a delicate floral nose and apple-forward taste. It’s crisp, bubbly, and semi-dry without losing the refreshing flavor of a sparkling rosé. As the bubbles dance on your tongue, it feels almost like drinking rose petals. Perfect for Sunday brunch, beach picnics, and watching a summer sunset from anywhere! Available in 12 oz. cans, it’s easy to transport wherever you’re headed, and on tap at Applewood Winery. Easy summer cocktail recipe: Naked Flock Rosé, a splash of Applewood Gin, a whisper of vermouth, and a squeeze of fresh lime. The Naked Rose Martini has arrived! ON TAP! SMASHED CHERRY MEAD
Made with tart New York State cherries and clover honey, it is semi-dry with the honey taste up front and a slightly tart cherry bite on the finish. Smashed Cherry is available on tap at Applewood Winery, and at bars and restaurants throughout the Hudson Valley.
SEASONAL LEMON GINGER PUMPKIN LIMITED/ROTATING “CIDER OF THE WEEKEND”
THE ESSENTIALS NAME NAKED FLOCK HARD CIDER ADDRESS 82 Four Corners Rd. Warwick, NY 10990 PHONE 845-988-9292 EMAIL email@example.com WEBSITE applewoodwinery.com OPEN Mar–Dec Wed–Sun: 11am–5pm Sept–Oct: Daily, 11am–5pm
CLOSED New Year’s Day, Easter Thanksgiving, Christmas TASTING FEES $8.00 $10.00 with glass TOURS No FARM ACREAGE 10 acres OWNERS Jonathan and Michele Hull CIDER MAKER Jonathan Hull
Summer of Cider
Naked Flock Summer Concert Series
JULY 27–28 BBQ & Blues Experience
GETTING HERE FROM I-87: Exit 16 (Harriman) for NY-17 W to Exit 127 Greycourt Rd. Follow signs to Sugar Loaf and Warwick. Continue on CR-13 past Sugar Loaf for 3 miles, then turn right on Four Corners Road and proceed 1 mile. Entrance is on the left.
Naked Flock Hard Cider Experience
FARM MARKETS: MAY–OCT
Warwick Valley Farmers Market
HVCiderGuide.com • 2019
NINE PIN CIDERWORKS
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NINE PIN CIDERWORKS has its origins in the premier apple growing regions of the upper Hudson Valley where founder and cider maker Alejandro del Peral was raised. After graduating from McGill University in Montreal with a Biology degree, and working on a Masters Degree in Hydrology, Alejandro became enthralled and devoted to creating liquid art from science and local terroir. The idea of connecting the amazing orchards that had surrounded him where he was raised and his cider making skills deeply resonated with him. He returned to the upper Hudson Valley with true passion, eager to pull all of his knowledge together to start New York’s first farm cidery, Nine Pin Ciderworks. Creating Nine Pin Ciderworks was the culmination of his various life paths and Alejandro is honored to be able to work with family, friends and the world-class orchards in the Capital Region. In 2013, using farm-fresh fruit, including apples grown from seed on his small family farm, Alejandro began crafting his awardwinning Nine Pin New York Hard Cider at 929 Broadway in Albany. Nine Pin Ciderworks became New York State’s first Farm Cidery in February 2014. Nine Pin’s cider apples come from within 20 miles of its cidery in New York’s Capital, making it truly New York and a shining beacon of sincere localism. Nine Pin’s mission is simple: to create quality craft ciders using 100% New York apples and fruit. Under New York State’s Farm Cidery law, Nine Pin was authorized to open its tasting room in Albany’s Warehouse District. Nine Pin sponsors the Gathering of the Farm Cideries each February at its facility, bringing together other New York Farm Cideries for a tasting and market event in celebration of the Farm Cidery law. In its tasting room, Nine Pin offers the opportunity to explore a range of rotating small batch ciders, as well as other New York ciders and beers and cider cocktails using New York distilled spirits. Nine Pin ciders are now available throughout New York State, Massachusetts, and Connecticut. Nine Pin is a member of the United States Cider Association, the New York Cider Association, and the Capital Craft Beverage Trail. In 2019, Nine Pin will continue to expand its tasting room’s offerings to foster local interest and encourage increased cider tourism in the Capital District.
24 CIDER GUIDE • 2019
MEET THE CIDER MAKERS ALEJANDRO DEL PERAL
Alejandro’s intense focus is the art and science of cider making. Alejandro, 33, of Averill Park, grew up on a family farm in Columbia County where his father started a small orchard from seed. Before starting Nine Pin Cider, Alejandro traveled extensively and his exposure to various food traditions continues to inform his experimental cider making. JACOB PLATEL
Jacob Platel, 27, of Cohoes, New York, was born and raised in the Capital Region within a stone’s throw of countless orchards. Little did he know that his childhood passion for fresh-pressed cider and doughnuts would gracefully mesh with his keen interest in brewing and fermentation. BILL BROSI
Bill Brosi, 34, of Albany, hails from New York’s Catskill Region and got his feet wet in the craft beverage industry in Brooklyn. His true passion for Upstate never waned and he returned to hone his skills at Nine Pin. Catch him on the Nine Pin tours!
IN THE SPOTLIGHT FIVE YEAR CELEBRATION!
In 2019, Nine Pin Ciderworks celebrates its 5th anniversary as New York’s first farm cidery and the opening of its tasting room with commemorative bottled ciders. The Nine Pin name hails from the local legend of Rip Van Winkle who drank so much cider during a game of nine-pins hidden away in the Catskills that he fell asleep for 20 years.
THE ESSENTIALS NAME NINE PIN CIDERWORKS
LIMITED RELEASE EARL GREY RASPBERRY BLUEBERRY CIDRE ROSÉ PEACH TEA HUNNY PEAR THE CIDER MONSTER
ADDRESS 929 Broadway Albany, NY 12207
FROM I-90: Exit for 787 South to Colonie Street exit; turn right on Colonie Street, right on Erie Boulevard; left on N. Ferry Street and right on Broadway.
FROM I-87: Exit 23 to 787 North to Clinton Street exit; off exit, turn right on Broadway.
TOURS Check website for Tour Event schedule
FARM ACREAGE 125 total acres
PRODUCTION 40,000 cases
OPEN Tues: 4–9pm Wed: 4–10pm Thurs–Fri: 4–11pm Sat: 1–11pm Sun: 11am–7pm CLOSED New Year’s Day, Independence Day Thanksgiving, Christmas
OWNERS Alejandro del Peral Sonya del Peral CIDER MAKERS Alejandro del Peral, Jacob Platel, Bill Brosi
TASTING FEES 4 Cider Flight – $7.00 9 Cider Flight – $15.00
FOLLOW US: Check the Facebook page for ongoing pop-up food, music, art and craft events. Cider & Sliders (once a month) Cider Fire & Za
Gathering of the Farm Cideries
@ninepincider @ninepincider @ninepincider
HVCiderGuide.com • 2019
ORCHARD HILL CIDER MILL
AB OUT US
ORCHARD HILL HARD CIDERS express the apples they are made from, the land those apples are grown on, and the makers’ devotion to quality. Orchard Hill’s mission to revive the tradition of authentic farm-based cider production began to be realized by partnering with Soons Orchards. This partnership expands the orchards’ 109-year history of apple-growing expertise to include cider. Orchard Hill believes in quality over quantity, and the makers first and foremost create ciders they like to drink. Therefore, they focus on food-friendly, drier styles that look to the great cider traditions of France, Spain, and the West Country of England for inspiration, while primarily being guided by the fruit to make quintessentially New York State cider. Using traditional fermentation and distilling methods, Orchard Hill products are made with a minimum of intervention, and never contain concentrates or artificial flavorings of any kind. While traditional and purist in outlook, this cider mill looks to innovate, so don’t be surprised to find bottlings that pleasantly surprise. Hospitality is paramount at the Orchard Hill Tasting Room, where guests receive a gracious welcome. Upon arrival they will find a one-of-a-kind selection of carefully curated, small batch, artisanal New York State cider, beer, wine, and spirits. Hosted at the Tasting Room are educational events, and special evenings of food, libations, and entertainment. The menus at these events offer a locavore approach, utilizing the expertise of their executive chef, trained at The Culinary Institute of America. The goal is to make optimal use of the bounty of the Hudson Valley. Orchard Hill’s food-friendly ciders really shine when enjoyed with expertly prepared local foods, especially while relaxing in their newly expanded cidery. The inviting and comfortable event space is in sync with their thoughtful approach to cider making; featuring classic salvaged architectural details from the surrounding area, and wood surfaces harvested from the orchards to create a harmonious environment. This is a multi-season destination, offering tastings, tours and events March through December. Spring and summer visits to the orchards are just as exciting as the fall high-season visits with the traditional harvest activities. Orchard Hill Cider Mill looks forward to welcoming you. Please check the website and Facebook page for announcements regarding hours and special events, as they are subject to change.
“SMALL LOTS OF PURE, BRISK, REFRESHING CIDER AND EXCELLENT POMMEAU.” —ERIC ASIMOV, NY TIMES WINE & FOOD CRITIC
26 CIDER GUIDE • 2019
MEET THE CIDER MAKERS KARL DU HOFFMANN ANDREW EMIG JEFFREY SOONS
Karl, Andrew and Jeffrey were equally inspired to provide an alternative to the homogenized “big beer” cider that is most widely available today. Karl, a former Broadway “gypsy” and beverage industry veteran, began by asking why New York State didn’t have the variety of agro-beverage businesses he encountered in Europe, and ended by founding Orchard Hill. Karl is marketing and sales partner. Andrew Emig, a business sales consultant and classical trumpeter, was excited by the opportunity to create an authentic, lasting brand of cider, and partnered with Karl, and then Jeffrey, to make that a reality. Andrew is managing partner. Jeffrey grew up on the orchards and practiced law in New York City before environmental legal battles and the lure of the farm drew him back. Jeff is now facilities and production partner. All three partners make the cider. Orchard Hill embodies the unique experiences, perspectives, and skills represented.
IN THE SPOTLIGHT CANS CANS CANS
You can now enjoy Bone Dry Draft and Verde Medium Dry Draft in cans. You spoke, they listened! AWARD-WINNING POMMEAU
The year 1066 conjures visions of the Norman conquest of England and Haley’s Comet sightings in northern Europe. That history influenced the naming of the Norman-inspired Ten66 Pommeau. This aperitif features aromas of vanilla, baked apple, and spice in a tapestry of flavors woven with sweetness and 17–20% ABV. Ten66 Pommeau is made according to the French regulations for “Pommeau de Normandie,” and is winner of the 2017 Good Food Award ®. It starts with apple brandy distilled from cider and aged in French Oak wine barrels. The brandy is then blended with fresh unfermented cider and allowed to mellow further in the barrels. Nothing else but the careful blending of barrels makes for this unrivaled sensory experience.
CIDER RED LABEL BONE DRY, SPARKLING GOLD LABEL MEDIUM DRY, SPARKLING VERDE MEDIUM DRY BONE DRY DRAFT POMMEAU TEN66 POMMEAU TEN66 POMMEAU RESERVE TEN66 POMMEAU SINGLE BARREL
THE ESSENTIALS NAME ORCHARD HILL CIDER MILL ADDRESS 29 Soons Circle New Hampton, NY 10958 PHONE 845-374-2468 EMAIL firstname.lastname@example.org WEBSITE orchardhillcidermill.com OPEN Mar–June Thurs–Sun: 12–6pm July–Aug; Nov–Dec Thurs & Sun: 12–6pm Fri–Sat: 12–10pm Sept–Oct Mon–Thurs: 12–6pm Fri: 12–10pm Sat: 11am–10pm Sun: 10am–6pm
CLOSED New Year’s Day, Thanksgiving (open until 1pm), Christmas Jan & Feb: call for appointment TASTING FEE $5.00 TOURS Free FARM ACREAGE 200+ acres PRODUCTION 2,500 cases OWNERS Andrew Emig, Jeffrey Soons, Carolyn duHoffmann MANAGER Donnan Sutherland CIDER MAKERS Andrew Emig, Jeffrey Soons, Karl duHoffmann
GETTING HERE FROM I-87: Exit 16 for NY-17 W/1-86 to Exit 123 for US-6 W toward Middletown/Port Jervis. Continue on US-6 W for about 3.6 miles, then turn left onto Lower Rd. Turn left onto Soons Circle. FROM I-84: Exit 3E for US-6 E/NY-17M E toward Goshen. Continue on US-6 E for 1.4 miles. Turn right on Lower Rd., then turn left onto Soons Circle.
FOLLOW US: Hudson Valley Cider Week Orchard Hill Destination Cider 2019 Launch
Farm to Table Dinners in partnership with Soons Orchards, 1st Friday of every month Visit the website for special holiday events, happy hours, and extended hours of operation.
@orchardhillcidermill @orchardhillnyc @orchardhillcidermill
HVCiderGuide.com • 2019
PENNINGS FARM CIDERY
AB OUT US
FARMING IS NOT A PASSING TREND for the owners of Pennings Farm Cidery. The shared vision to return to the tradition of growing your own is ingrained in the brother and sister partners. Stephen Pennings Jr. (SJ) and Tori Pennings were born and raised on the 100+ acre Pennings Farm that has been in their family for nearly four decades. Following several years of living off-farm while pursuing academic interests and professional endeavors, the cider siblings returned to their beloved family farm to take on adding Pennings Farm Cidery into the family farm empire. The property in its entirety houses multiple family-owned and operated businesses. Pennings Farm Market, now a multi-dimensional retail business, began as a roadside farm stand that has matured into a year-round farm market, garden center, grill and pub owned and operated by Jill and Steve Pennings, the parents of SJ and Tori. Pennings Farm Market stays as fresh as the seasons with elaborate pop-up style departments that include an outdoor beer garden, ice cream stand, donut shack and a winter indoor beer garden. Pennings Apple Orchard, under the ownership of their uncle Jack Pennings and cousins Jack and Monica Pennings, stretches across more than half of the family farm’s acreage, part of which is owned and managed by Steve and Jill Pennings. Owning an orchard sets the cidery apart, allowing the Pennings to produce faithfully from the ground up. Soon the orchard will include a section solely for growing cider-specific apples. The Pennings have first-hand knowledge and experience of managing their hard cider through all stages from the ground to the glass. SJ maintains his own version of the farmer’s almanac, lightheartedly titled S.O.P.s for Cider Making S.O.B.s. This sort of playbook includes not only notes on crop management, status, variety and harvest, but also observations of the surrounding farms producing locally grown fruits and vegetables that are at their disposal to be incorporated into their signature libation. Even with this fully stocked armory of history, land, farming expertise and community networking and collaboration, some of the team’s best brainstorm sessions happen during unplanned after-work casual meetings. There exists a time known as “shifty o’clock” on Pennings Farm when the crew meets at the pub, the tap room or the beer gardens to imbibe a complimentary end-of-the shift beverage of choice. With an extensive menu of craft beverages to choose from including at least 10 proprietary hard ciders, these meetings of the minds are uninhibited in nature, often leading to creative product names, development of unique special events, and bonding that makes the team more of an extended farm family than just co-workers.
PHOTOS: Greg Rhein Photography
28 CIDER GUIDE • 2019
MEET THE COLONY With cider production at an all-time high due to increased interest in the hard cider movement, the Pennings cider team continues to grow. New staff members bring fresh ideas and specialized skills to put forth expansion projects that are on the blackboard, streamlining efficiency and cultivating a hard cider following. There’s great advantage in a team that spans generations, allowing for a healthy mix of innovative ideas combined with tried and true knowledge and grit. Jill and Tori keep the colony together by seeing that all operational components are abuzz, analyzing, planning and guiding the product perception, developing and maintaining market relationships. SJ runs the production side of the business with his righthand men Matt Sampson and Mike Stubeck. Together, the trio develops a menu of ciders based on the variety of the apple crop and seasonal produce, taking apples fresh from harvest to the press to fermentation. When SJ isn’t engaged in production, he joins his father Steve Sr. in leading the farm production team in farm management from seeding to pruning to harvesting and every step in between.
IN THE SPOTLIGHT Newly installed equipment has taken the spotlight at Pennings Cidery with a new fleet of six fermentation tanks and one brite tank where cider is stored after fermentation. This new system will allow the business to grow to 50,000 gallons per year. Pennings cider makers filled the winter hours producing cider from Pennings own orchard-grown apples and experimenting with new ciders from apples grown on other New York State orchards. Everything grown on Pennings Farm is a viable ingredient in cider recipes. From the apple, peach and apricot orchards and pumpkin patch hale signature ciders including Peach Fuzz and Pumpkin Cider. Pennings oneacre hopyard and beehives provide key ingredients for Honey Hopped and the meadstyle cider, Cyser. When ingredients aren’t grown on the farm, fruits and vegetables are outsourced from local farmers and producers. Keep an eye out for single varietals available only in the tap room including Michelin, Rhode Island Greening, Stayman Winesap, Golden Russet, Baldwin, Gold Rush and Crab Apple cider made with fruit from a100+ year old seedling tree on Pennings Farm.
GINGER BEET BONE DRY WILD MAN CYSER CIDER COCKTAILS
THE ESSENTIALS NAME PENNINGS FARM CIDERY
TASTING FEES $3.00 per 5 oz. pour
ADDRESS 4 Warwick Turnpike Warwick, NY 10990
TOURS By appointment FARM ACREAGE 100 acres
PHONE 845-987-9922 EMAIL email@example.com
PRODUCTION 15,000 gallons
OWNERS SJ Pennings, Tori Pennings, Jill Pennings
OPEN Apr–Dec Seasonal hours
MANAGERS SJ Pennings, Tori Pennings, Jill Pennings
CLOSED Easter, Thanksgiving, Christmas
CIDER MAKERS SJ Pennings, Matt Sampson
GETTING HERE FROM GWB: Merge onto NJ-4 W via Exit 72A on the left, toward Paramus. Stay straight onto NJ-208 N/State Route 208. Merge onto I-287 S via the exit on the left toward Oakland/ Morristown.Take the Skyline Drive exit, Exit 57, toward Ringwood. Keep right to take the ramp toward Ringwood. Merge onto Skyline Dr. Keep right at the fork to Skyline Dr/County Hwy-692. Turn right onto Greenwood Lake Turnpike/County Hwy-511. Stay straight onto Union Valley Rd/County Hwy-513. Continue to Warwick Turnpike (crossing into New York). Turn left onto State Route 94 S/NY-94. Pennings Farm Market is on the left.
Goat Yoga Workshop
Fest For Us
Growler Power Hour
HVCiderGuide.com • 2019
STANDARD CIDER CO.
A BOUT US
Brotherhood, America’s Oldest Winery – Established 1839
BROTHERHOOD WINERY is the oldest, continuously operating winery in the United States. For 180 years, Brotherhood has been producing wines in New York. Located one hour north of New York City in the Hudson Valley, Brotherhood Winery has also been exposed to apple growing and cider making for many years. There are records of cider production at Brotherhood Winery dating back to earlier times, but since the 1980s cider making has been a constant part of its production. Having an abundance of orchards in the state of New York to choose from, Brotherhood Winery has partnered with two apple growers to source the apples used for its ciders. Red Jacket Orchards in Geneva (Finger Lakes region) is where delicious fresh apple juice is made by using only dessert apple varieties. The quality of work that Red Jacket Orchards does in the orchards is reflected by the amazing apples that they grow and the juice they press. Rebel Reserve barrel-aged cider is a product of a partnership with Roe Orchards, a local orchard in Chester that has been family-owned for almost 190 years. The fresh juice sourced from Roe Orchards is made from a blend of dessert and cider apples, which produces an amazingly delicious and complex juice which transforms into the barrel-aged Rebel Reserve Cider. After carefully selecting our apple growing partners, the fresh juice is fermented at Brotherhood Winery using carefully selected yeasts and top of the line filtering and bottling equipment, ensuring that all of the flavors and aromas of the apples are captured into each bottle. Cider market trends, as well as different styles of ciders produced in other regions around the world, are regularly evaluated so Brotherhood can offer consumers ciders made in various styles using different techniques. However, its products have a unique identity created by its talented team of cider makers.
MEET THE CIDER MAKERS BOB BARROW
Bob Barrow is winemaker and head cider maker for Brotherhood. Bob graduated from Virginia Tech in 1998 with a B.S. in Biology and a Chemistry Minor. He worked both in the vineyard and the winery at Williamsburg Winery in Virginia before starting at Brotherhood in 1999. A native of Dutchess County, Bob spends his time in the lab and the cellars creating Brotherhood’s blends and sparkling wines, as well as its line of ciders. KELLY ONG
Laboratory Manager Kelly Ong graduated with a B.S. in Chemistry from Marist College in 2010. She joined the Brotherhood team immediately after graduating. Kelly works closely with Bob and Haley on formulating and analyzing wines and ciders, formula approvals, and monitoring the fermentation and quality of all products. Her expertise also includes creating quality control plans and monitoring inventory and production lines. HALEY SILVERMAN
Brotherhood Winery’s focus is to continue producing premium hard apple cider here in the Hudson Valley and bring its craft-made ciders to enthusiasts around the United States and abroad. Brotherhood will continue to promote its hard cider products at the winery during this year’s season. Please check the website or follow on Facebook to learn more about upcoming events.
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Haley Silverman has been working at Brotherhood Winery since 2016. She graduated from Stony Brook University in 2015 with a B.S. in Chemistry and Environmental Studies. Haley divides her time at Brotherhood between the laboratory and the production line as a Quality Control Technician. Her main responsibility includes assisting Bob and Kelly making sure each cider and wine produced is up to par with the company’s formulation, taste, and production standards.
IN THE SPOTLIGHT TRUE HONEY CIDER
A unique blend of fresh apple juice infused with natural honey from the Hudson Valley, True Honey Cider is perfect for any season or occasion.
THE ESSENTIALS NAME STANDARD CIDER CO. ADDRESS 100 Brotherhood Plaza Dr. Washingtonville, NY 10992
TRUE BELIEVER TRUE COMPANION TRUE COUPLE TRUE THIRST TRUE HONEY REBEL RESERVE
CLOSED New Year’s Day, Thanksgiving, Christmas TASTING FEES Check website
TOURS Check website
PRODUCTION 6,000 cases
OWNERS Chadwick and Castro families
OPEN Jan–Mar Fri–Sun: 11am–5pm April–Dec Sun–Thurs: 11am–5pm Fri: 11am–6pm Sat: 11am–7pm
MANAGER Hernan Donoso CIDER MAKERS Bob Barrow, Kelly Ong, Haley Silverman
GETTING HERE FROM I-87: Exit 16 (Harriman) to NY-17 W to Exit 130. Take NY-208 N to NY-94 in Washingtonville. Make a right at the light onto NY-94 and proceed to the next light. Make a left onto Brotherhood Plaza Drive. Brotherhood is at the end of the road on the left.
Wine & Beer Festival
Hudson Valley Seafood Festival
Wine & Sangria Pig Roast Festival
Annual Tree Lighting
HVCiderGuide.com • 2019
A BOUT US
TREASURY CIDER IS A TREE-TO-BOTTLE hard cider produced by Fishkill Farms at their century-old family orchard. They use a mix of heirloom, bittersweet and dessert apples that are cultivated, pressed and fermented with care to produce each batch of hard cider. Every ingredient is grown or wild foraged on the farm and fermented traditionally to produce delicate ciders akin to dry and sparkling white wines. After over 100 years of growing apples, in 2015 family-owned Fishkill Farms began producing hard cider called Treasury to invoke the spirit of the farm’s founder, Henry Morgenthau Jr., who served as U.S. Secretary of the Treasury under Roosevelt. It is also a nod to the historic American cider cellars which, like treasuries, served as year-round sources of comfort and vitality for the families and communities in their area. Today, Henry’s grandson Josh Morgenthau carries on this tradition as a third generation orchardist and the cidermaker behind Treasury Cider. Starting with the belief that outstanding cider is made in the orchard, the apples used in Treasury Cider are chosen for the character they add to cider, grown with minimal intervention, eco-certified, and harvested at peak ripeness. The Hudson Valley climate and rich glacial soils yield unique, site-specific flavors to their cider. After pressing through a rack and cloth press, the apples are fermented slowly at cool temperatures and aged for 6 to 10 months before bottling. Unlike commercial cider, which is often made with under-ripe fruit and over-sweetened with sugar, Treasury Ciders are dryer and less carbonated, and pair wonderfully with a variety of foods. Treasury’s newest releases were made with the 2017 crops. They are a mix of apples like Jonamac and Golden Delicious which grow on 50-year-old trees, and newer organic plantings of heirloom and cider varieties, including Roxbury Russet, Esopus Spitzenberg, Ashmead’s Kernel, Northern Spy and Goldrush. Each of the five bottlings showcases a unique blend of fruit and a particular cider-making process. Homestead is a traditional off-dry sparkling cider. Wiccopee, Burr Knot, Centennial and Counterpane are dry, unfiltered ciders fermented with native yeasts, and bottle conditioned in small batches before aging 4-6 months before release. Wiccopee is made from a mix of 100% organic apples, producing a rustic dry farmhouse-style cider. Burr Knot’s mix of crab apples and heirloom apples gives it spicy, complex notes; Centennial, the fullest-bodied cider, blends a mix of Roxbury Russet, Ashmead’s Kernel and Golden Russet apples that are aged in stainless steel and oak to create an elegant and highly aromatic offering. Finally, Counterpane is a rosyhued cider made by co-fermenting Fishkill Farm’s sweet and tart cherries with high acid dessert apples.
PHOTOS: Katie Ross (left, center, opposite page); Grant Delin (right)
32 CIDER GUIDE • 2019
MEET THE CIDER MAKER JOSH MORGENTHAU
Josh Morgenthau moved back to his family’s farm in 2006 and set about pruning, renovating and replanting the historic family orchard. In 2008, he partnered with Farm Manager Mark Doyle, and together, they put 100 acres of fallow land back into production. By embracing sustainable farming, planting diverse crops, and focusing on marketing their produce to the local community through CSA, a farm store, and pick-your-own, Fishkill Farms grew to be one of the Hudson Valley’s premier destinations for sustainably-grown fruits and vegetables. Josh has been fermenting hard cider using the farm’s apples for as long as he can remember. Continuing to produce a new batch each year, he began to incorporate some of the unique varieties of heirloom and cider apples he was growing. Over time, the importance of orchard site, variety, and harvest timing in producing quality cider became central to his cider-making philosophy. In 2015, Treasury Cider was born. The ciders produced each vintage, like each season of farming, have their own unique story to tell.
IN THE SPOTLIGHT Fishkill Farms grows much more than just apples for hard cider. In addition to their 60 acres of apple and pear orchards, they grow peaches, nectarines, strawberries, cherries, blueberries, organic vegetables and pumpkins, all of which are available in season for pickyour-own. Fishkill Farms’ mission is to produce fresh, healthy and sustainably grown food for local customers. They are committed to good stewardship of the land, and much of their produce is grown organically, without synthetic pesticides or fertilizers. Fishkill Farms has a 300 member CSA and hosts many community events throughout the summer and fall including concerts, bonfires, farm dinners and harvest festivals. Their weekend fall harvest festivals in September and October round out the year with live music, cider tastings, hayrides and more. Fishkill Farms was permanently protected as farmland with support from New York State’s Environmental Protection Fund in 2009, and celebrated its 100th anniversary in 2013. Many of the more than 80 varieties of apples they grow are heritage strains passed down by generations of orchardists. The preservation of traditional cider-making apples, many of which have been lost over time, is central to Fishkill Farm’s mission. Currently underway are plans for a brand new cidery building that will house fermentation and bottling equipment as well as a tasting room with a full bar and small bites.
BURR KNOT CENTENNIAL COUNTERPANE HOMESTEAD WICCOPEE WILD AT HEART
THE ESSENTIALS NAME TREASURY CIDER FISHKILL FARMS
TASTING FEES Free single tasting $4.00 for full flight
ADDRESS 9 Fishkill Farm Rd. Hopewell Junction, NY 12533
FARM ACREAGE 270 acres PRODUCTION 600 cases
PHONE 845-897-4377 EMAIL firstname.lastname@example.org
OWNER Josh Morgenthau MANAGER Mark Doyle
WEBSITE treasurycider.com OPEN June–Dec Daily: 9am–6pm
CIDER MAKER Josh Morgenthau, Stacy Dedring, Chris Jackson, Rohan Chamberlain
CLOSED Jan–May, New Year’s Day, Easter, Thanksgiving, Christmas
Independence Day Bash
FROM NYC: Fishkill Farms is located in Dutchess County in the Hudson Valley, just over an hour north of New York City. Take the Taconic Parkway to I-84 East and get off at Exit 15.
Fall Harvest Festivals
Holiday Fair and Market
HVCiderGuide.com • 2019
t one minute after midnight on July 1, 1919, the dream of “dry” reformers became a reality when the Wartime Prohibition Act went into effect. Passed to conserve America’s food, grain, and fuel during World War I, the new law made the manufacture and sale of “intoxicating liquor” a crime against the United States.
Patriotism and war frenzy was at an alltime high when Wartime Prohibition was first introduced in April 1918 as a rider to an emergency agricultural appropriation bill. Known as the Food Production Stimulation bill, it came on the heels of a full nationwide Prohibition bill banning alcohol, which had already been passed by both houses of the Congress in December 1917, and was waiting for ratification by 36 states. Attached to the bill was the “Jones Rider” which banned “beer, wine or other intoxicating malt or vinous liquor for beverage purposes”. Thinly disguised as a contribution to the war effort, the rider was in actuality the work of the Temperance movement, backed by the powerful Anti-Saloon League, who took Robert advantage of the war hysteria to force their moral agenda on the American population. Their ultimate goal was to get a nationwide “dry” law, in any form, onto the books with the hope that once enacted it would be difficult to overturn.
PROBLEMS NOT SOLUTIONS The wartime ban, however, created more controversy and problems then it offered solutions. For one, by the time the law went into effect, the war had been over for more than six months. For another, it never clearly defined the word “intoxicating.” A later ruling declared that any liquor in excess of more than one half of one percent alcohol in volume was “intoxicating”, and therefore illegal. And, by strict interpretation, possession of liquor was never banned—only the manufacture and sale of liquor was prohibited. Further interpretation revealed that hard cider was neither a “malt or vinous liquor,” so fruit juices, such as cider, were outside the reach of Wartime Prohibition. It was common knowledge that farmers and the rural population were strong supporters of the Prohibition crusade, so when legislators framed the law, they took great care to prevent any infringement on the drinking habits of their farmer constituents back home. Fearing that any prohibition law would lose the farmers backing, it was their intent to interfere as little as possible with the generally recognized right of farmers to manufacture their beloved hard cider for home use. Therefore, the manufacture and sale of pure apple cider, fermented or not, was permissible under Wartime Prohibition regulations. Cider could be sold without regard to alcohol content, though technically nothing could be added to raise the percentage of alcohol. Resistance to the dry experiment soon began mounting in the big cities. For the most part, the urban population ignored the dry mandate and city dwellers continued to drink openly throughout Wartime Prohibition. New York had difficulty dealing with the ban, as 92 percent of its population was previously living in “wet” 34 CIDER GUIDE • 2019
[anti-prohibitionist] territory. By comparison, in the rest of the country nearly 60 percent of the population was under some form of local or state prohibition before Wartime Prohibition went into effect. As the “wets” continued their resistance, filing endless lawsuits in their fight against Prohibition, the Treasury Department was eventually forced to admit, in an announcement in November 1919, that cider was indeed not “a vinous liquor” as determined by the Jones Rider, and therefore not subject to the ban on alcohol. Cider, whether hard or sweet, could be sold without regard to its alcohol content, or at least until January 16, 1920, when constitutional Prohibition, finally ratified as the Eighteenth Amendment, would go into effect and replace Wartime Prohibition. Almost immediately, cider supplies in many communities dwindled, and cider prices leapt to more than several dollars a gallon. Apple prices also rose with reports of growing shortages, as farmers and speculators began hoarding apples for cider making before the January deadline. In the cities, many hotels, restaurants, and Bedford bars substituted hard cider for the usual spirits to celebrate the 1920 New Year, which would have otherwise been dry. In this new era, where beer, wine, and liquor were illegal, cider now reigned supreme.
MORE THAN A RURAL FAVORITE Barely six months into national Prohibition, the newly formed Bureau of Prohibition could no longer avoid the cider dilemma. In July 1920, the Bureau made public a ruling that settled any doubt on the legality of hard cider, virtually lifting the ban on cider, fruit juices and “nonintoxicating” beverages. Citing the Volstead Act, the law enacted to enforce the Eighteenth Amendment, the Bureau pointed out that Section 29 of the Act specifically exempted cider and other “fruit juices” that might acquire an alcoholic content through the natural process of fermentation. These beverages were not subject to the legal limit of “one half of one percent” alcohol. The Bureau ruled that these beverages were not “intoxicating”, but rather “intoxicating in fact”—an ambiguous, contradictory term that implied that if wine, cider, or other fermented fruit juices were made for use exclusively in the home, the burden was upon the government to prove that they were “intoxicating in fact”.
There were various regulations attached to the ruling. Items that could raise the sugar content and percentage of alcohol in the final product—like dried fruits, dandelions, rhubarb, and elderberry blossoms—technically could not be “added” to the mixture. It was also a violation to make wine from flowers and herbs, but not from fresh fruits. Apples, peaches, pears, strawberries, cherries, and, of course, grapes, were permitted even though the fermented results could reach as high as 15 to 20 percent. What was intended as a loophole to enable the farmers to escape the drastic provisions of Prohibition had turned into an equal protection for city dwellers, who by law were now fully protected to make “non-intoxicating ciders and fruit juices.” And if cider, wine, and other fruit juices were protected, why not beer? This question was raised time and again, and as the years went by, challenges to Prohibition laws, both public and private, increased.
TA S TINGS – S A LES EVENTS
Orchard Lane, Hillsdale NY Seasonal Hours 917.287.6339 facebook.com/littleapplecider NOFA-NY Certified Organic
SEEKING STATUS THROUGH CIDER Among the more notable challengers was Congressman John Philip Hill from Baltimore, MD, who took on the authorities and pointed out the discrepancies between homemade cider and beer, and the ability of farmers to make and drink hard cider, while the city dweller was denied even 2.75% beer under the same law. In 1924, Hill hosted a high-profile party at his backyard farm, and as a publicity stunt invited the commissioner of Prohibition to sample his homemade cider and wine. Hill, of course, was promptly arrested and tried on six counts of violating the Volstead Act. The publicly covered trial only lasted two days, though it took 20 hours of deliberation for the jury to find Hill not guilty on all counts. Just a year later, New York’s own Congressman Fiorello LaGuardia argued the same point, and invited reporters and photographers to his Washington, DC, office where he mixed a “near beer” (the legal no-alcohol beer) with a bottle of malt tonic, took a sip of the 2% “beer” and declared that the alcoholic beverage was perfectly legal under the definition of the Volstead Act. This and many other stunts were covered in the newspapers, leading to a slow erosion of the public’s already deteriorating views on Prohibition.
ENDING THE NOBLE EXPERIMENT Wartime Prohibition was meant to be a temporary situation—it lasted a little more than six months—but it was viewed as an experiment to prepare the public for lifelong constitutional Prohibition. Homemade cider remained legal throughout the long years of National Prohibition, and although public debates and legal challenges continued to arise, they were always rejected. Despite the popularity of cider in rural America, the rest of the population couldn’t survive on fruit juices alone. Ten years into Prohibition, it was apparent that millions of Americans were manufacturing large quantities of wine and beer, as well as cider, in their homes. In fact, the amount of homemade wine produced was estimated to be more than 10 times pre-Prohibition levels. Homemade cider production was so widespread that it couldn’t be accurately measured. So much for the dry experiment. Eventually, it was a matter of simple economics that ended the nation’s “noble experiment.” Three years into the economic depression which began with the market collapse in 1929, the potential of restoring billions of dollars to the U.S. Treasury by repealing the ban on alcohol outweighed any moral considerations or national sacrifice that might have once existed. The amendment mandating repeal of National Prohibition was ratified December 5, 1933, and went into effect immediately.
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Berkshire Mt. Distillers Brookview Station Winery Clermont Vineyards Furnace Brook Winery Harvest Spirits Hillrock Estate Distillery Hudson-Chatham Winery Hudson Valley Distillers Open Year Ro und Les Trois Emme Trail Groups Welcome Stablegate Winery Hudson Berkshire Wine & Food Festival Memorial Day Weekend ~ Columbia County Fairgrounds
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Angry Orchard 2241 Albany Post Road | Walden angryorchard.com
Awestruck 8 Winkler Road | Sidney awestruckciders.com
Bad Seed Cider Co. 43 Baileys Gap Road | Highland BadSeedHardCider.com
Brooklyn Cider House 155 N. Ohioville Road | New Paltz brooklynciderhouse.com
Docâ€™s Draft Hard Cider & Black Dirt Distillery 114 Little York Road | Warwick wvwinery.com
Hardscrabble Cider 130 Hardscrabble Road | North Salem hardscrabbleciderny.com
Helderberg Meadworks 6144 State Highway 30 | Esperance helderbergmeadworks.com
Hudson Valley Distillers 1727 Route 9 | Clermont hudsonvalleydistillers.com
Hudson Valley Farmhouse Cider 3012 Route 213 | Stone Ridge hudsonvalleyfarmhousecider.com
Kettleborough Cider House 277 State Route 208 | New Paltz kettleboroughciderhouse.com
Little Apple Cidery Orchard Lane | Hillsdale facebook.com/littleapplecider
Naked Flock Hard Cider 82 Four Corners Road | Warwick applewoodwinery.com
Nine Pin Ciderworks 929 Broadway | Albany ninepincider.com
Orchard Hill Cider Mill 29 Soons Circle | New Hampton orchardhillcidermill.com
Pennings Farm Cidery 4 Warwick Turnpike | Warwick penningscidery.com
Standard Cider Co. 100 Brotherhood Plaza Drive | Washingtonville brotherhood-winery.com
Treasury Cider 9 Fishkill Farm Road | Hopewell Junction treasurycider.com
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Tap into hard cider and apple spirits in New York's Hudson Valley and Capital Region! Read the stories behind the region's top producers, an...
Published on Jun 3, 2019
Tap into hard cider and apple spirits in New York's Hudson Valley and Capital Region! Read the stories behind the region's top producers, an...