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fashion 03 The magazine for technology in the apparel industry

Better perspectives At last — IT landscapes that match Fashion perfectly!

A change in the trend 3D opens up new possibilities for the apparel industry.

Bound to be a hit! Four processes that will get more from your data.

Imprint Acknowledgements: many customers and partners helped us with interviews, information and pictures. Our thanks to each and everyone of them! Publisher: Assyst GmbH Max-Planck-Str. 3 D-85609 Aschheim-Dornach/Germany Tel.: +49-89-90 505 0 Fax: +49-89-90 505 271 Responsible for the editorial content: Alexandra Seidl, Human Solutions GmbH ( Compilation and layout: Marketing Essentials (Angelika Methner, Annegret Schall-Ceppa, Claudia Collin) Translation: Kevron Translations (Ron Shankland) Š The Assyst GmbH and Human Solutions GmbH have the 2012 copyright for all articles and illustrations, unless stated otherwise. Any form of reproduction, inclusion in online services and the Internet and copying to data carriers like CD ROMs, DVD ROMs etc., may only be carried out with express, prior permission in writing from Assyst GmbH or Human Solutions GmbH.


“How sustainable can progress be for your company?” We are currently witnessing a dramatic change in Fashion Technology: 3D simulation has arrived at the product development workplace. Many of our customers take their first steps with CAD and PLM in the Cloud. And for the first time, all apparel processes can be seamlessly and digitally mapped. And there are even more changes we could mention. All of these technical innovations form the foundation for more opportunities in the apparel industry. Each innovation targets the hugely increased productivity and acceleration in global fashion processes. However, software alone is not enough. These innovations must also reach the global everyday work of the manufacturers and their suppliers. In order to do this, they need an international service organization, one which can ensure their performance.

defined processes in projects, we ensure the quality of our results on an international basis. Most of our customers with maintenance contracts now use this global support structure. That says a lot for our approach. So you can focus fully on the new technical possibilities, which fashion 03 points out for you, like 3D, seamless processes, CAD upgrade and the Cloud. Our local teams will ensure that your concepts bear fruit in practice. Enjoy your reading — and be inspired! Your Dr. Andreas Seidl CEO Human Solutions, Assyst und AVM

If we want to implement advanced technology concepts, we must be able to run those solutions in a sustainable way during our global everyday work. This is what we have been working on intensively in the past two years, setting up subsidiaries and stable relationships with established partners in the central strategic supplier markets. We have done this in China, Lithuania, Indonesia, Tunisia and Ukraine, for instance. We intentionally focused on ensuring the long-term quality of our technology — and not on the quick sale of licenses. With intensive training, regular exchange of information and clearly


Future 6 Now it’s getting (simply) better. Fashion IT — what demands can we make? Dr. Andreas Seidl reveals the status quo and paints a picture of a powerful andsustainable IT. 10 Scope for ideas. Five fashion experts reveal what inspires them about their daily collection routines.

Best Prac tice Fashion

Innovation 14 Fashion Quest. The search for the optimal process begins. Get to know the actors in this successful fashion saga — and their process connections. Immerse yourself in the first season.

Perspective 18 Take a new path. With fashion 03, you can take a fresh look at proven technologies from a new standpoint — and get to know four interesting process models too. 20 Direct data transfer between development and production. PLM GoLive and ERP BOS go hand-in-glove. 22 2D product data becomes virtual samples. Cad.Assyst, Vidya and SAM in a seamless process. 24 Never out of stock — all automatically. Cad.Assyst, ERP BOS, PLM GoLive SAM and Autocost with seamless data flow. 26 Size & fit optimization — integrated into product development. iSize, Cad.Assyst, Vidya and SizeGERMANY fashion manikins closely meshed.



Benchmark 28 What can the new technology do for you? fashion 03 puts the trend theme 3D under the microscope and shows what is possible today.

46 SizeITALY is ready to go. Following the successful SizeGERMANY model, apparel manufacturers will now measure the Italian population.

30 Ten arguments for a seamless 3D process and three against. In the introduction of virtual prototypes, an objective viewpoint is of primary importance.

48 Three technology leaders — a first-class portfolio. Under the umbrella of the Human Solutions Group, the products of Human Solutions, Assyst and AVM coalesce to form a seamless technological chain. And this provides a number of benefits.

32 Optimal 3D simulation in Vidya. Photorealistic visualization by RTT. A feast for the eyes — the new design quality in 3D. EXPERIENCE 3D IN TACTILE QUALITY PAGES 32/33!

49 Technological research that makes the difference. Not simply developing from release to release ... but discovering new paths for the fashion industry — R & D in the Human Solutions Group.

Yardstick 34 The up-and-coming generation is on the move. fashion 03 introduces the winners of the first Vidya Award. 36 3D in size & fit control. How well does the simulation of basic patterns function in comparison to reality? A study project by the Albstadt-Sigmaringen University answers the question.


50 SaaS, Cloud & Co. The Cloud is an important topic ... but are you already benefiting from it today? fashion 03 shows you your options.

Panorama 54 How can we become more productive — without compromising on quality? Marker making & cut order Best Prac planning at Apriori und Laurèl. tice Fashion

38 Fashion TV Guide. All the technology trends from development to the point of sale at a glance — painstakingly compiled by our Fashion TV Editors.

Focus 42 We think in 3D. Virtual prototyping changes daily collection routines, but how? fashion 03 talks to Christoph Karrasch from the high-end visualizers RTT and Dr. Andreas Seidl about the strategic dimensions Best Prac of 3D for the fashion industry. tice Interview





Now it’s getting (simply) better An argument for seamless IT

by Dr. Andreas Seidl CEO, Human Solutions, Assyst and AVM

Most clothing manufacturers control their processes down to the final stitch. Seriously — with IT this is not always the case. We believe that it’s time for better results. And to achieve these results, we simply combine the proven fashion systems to form a seamless process.

Seamless processes are a must

The apparel industry has enormous potential for optimization — but it (still) cannot take advantage of it. From an organizational standpoint, the industry has largely exhausted its possibilities and its processes have been set up right down to the smallest detail. However, potential still exists for the automation of these processes, the flow of data and the integration of innovative technologies. In short: for the creation of seamless digital processes. An apparel company has seldom distinguished itself from the competition through its IT. But that is now changing. Some market-leading and mostly (but not only) larger companies have begun to close the digital gaps in their processes. If their data and workflows are seamlessly available all the way from development to production at all sites,

these apparel manufacturers will not only be more efficient, they will also make fewer mistakes and can exploit additional potential for innovation. The road to this objective is not as long as we might think at first glance.

Honestly ... IT can do more!

“Never change a running system” is one of the few sayings from the IT world which has found its way into our everyday vocabulary. And that really says it all. If the systems are running, everyone is happy and we tiptoe softly past the server in case we change anything. But does that really satisfy us? IT itself should (be able to) change much more frequently — and change in tune with our markets, our goals and our organization. The saying should really be “Change your running system anytime”. Everyday life, however, is different.




Future Continued from P. 7

Most changes take place within the framework of (externally motivated) IT updates. And for good reason: In many companies there is an established status quo for the widest range of systems. Individual tasks are often satisfactorily solved in this way, but (mostly) at the expense of a seamless data flow; because most system landscapes in the apparel industry have one thing in common — nothing really matches. This starts with different databases and finishes with heterogeneous interfaces, which are particularly costly to maintain. In this context, model numbers of different lengths already become a risk factor. The impact of a system upgrade is almost incalculable. At best, the data transfer is interrupted, but in the worst case scenario the data is transferred incorrectly or the whole system fails. Errors in purchasing, inaccurate pre-calculations and manufacturing defects are inevitable. As a result, an expensive apparel workforce — in addition to its core tasks — has to spend time constantly checking the product data, instead of taking care of the products themselves. At the same time, (just as expensive) IT professionals must manage a growing interface clutter, rather than focus their thoughts on how to use their information technology strategically. Both are necessary, but they inhibit productivity.

We don’t change the systems, we simply put them together differently

And now for the good news: The IT scenario described above can now change. Then the IT support for the processes will be planned to the same degree of detail as the processes already are. And this will have far-reaching consequences for cost, time and quality in development and production. One-off data entry generates enormous time savings. In the case of most apparel companies, this can mean several weeks per calendar year. And even more time is gained, because the information is available at every point in the process.

Here is an example of this: The data for the necessary raw materials is created in the PLM piece by piece and then transferred directly to the ERP. So it doesn’t have to be re-entered. Another example, but this time of size & fit: Sizes tables and grading steps are stored not only in CAD, but also in the PLM system. So the PLV (outward processing) and the full-purchase products are optimally supported with data and get a consistent size & fit, although they are separate processes in themselves. And if each site and each partner performs its grading based on Smart.Pattern macros, this applies to the entire range of sizes. All in all, good prospects ...

Now we can guarantee the stable operation of the entire process

A standardized process, however, means even more than this. It massively reduces risks and operating costs. If all the systems originate from one house, then there is only one partner who bears the responsibility and is able to solve problems. This, however, means having a tremendous amount of confidence in the technology and in the service conduct of that partner. With our best-in-class strategy and the initiative “Your business first” we hope we have already done much to earn that trust. Now, as the Human Solutions Group, we can support you with a seamless process from one source — with the technologies of Human Solutions, Assyst and AVM. Within the next two years, we will eliminate the interfaces between our products. This will create a completely seamless system landscape — but one which is still perfectly adapted to your individual needs. This makes IT simple for you: You can still decide which system you want to use — but the responsibility for further developing the links between the technologies and for the uniformity of data formats and structures lies solely with us. This means that we take the strain off your IT budget — and we shall be delighted when you have more resources available for innovations which will significantly take your company forward.

Reflections of Keppel Bay, Singapore Courtesy Studio Daniel Libeskind; Original Rendering © VMW Obilia


Scope for


In the hectic everyday stress of meeting collection deadlines, we like to think from collection to collection — but long-term orientation is also important. Five experts show you what inspires them and the visions they have.

Peter Vogel, Pattern Development Manager, Bogner

Britta Norwat, Application User Service, Vaude

Question 1: What do you especially like about fashion and your profession? ... meeting the chal-

Question 1: What do you like most about fashion and your job? My exciting professional

lenges which change on a daily basis and are created by ever-shortening cycles.

life mainly consists of contact with my colleagues and reacting to their wishes and requirements.

Question 2: In your opinion, what does your company do best? … develop and successfully mar-

Question 2: In your opinion, what does your company do best? We have clear goals and values

ket a unique range of exclusive, luxurious fashion, from swimwear to ski clothing for men, women and children, with the best size & fit and ultra-high quality.

that are reflected in our products and which every employee knows. We take responsibility for our environment and the socially responsible manufacturing of our products. To this end, we have developed concepts that are consistently implemented and to which every employee can contribute.

Question 3: To whom would you award a Fashion Nobel Prize? … of course for Willy and Sônia Bogner who have run this business for 80 years with constantly growing success.

Question 3: To whom would you award a Fashion Nobel Prize? The Fair Wear Foundation, because its audit is a universal view. It makes both brand and producer accountable for guaranteeing a truly socially acceptable, manufactured product. It also gives the customer a good feeling!



Volkmar Kölsch, owner, Volkmar Kölsch Agency Design + Development

Question 1: What do you like most about fashion and your job? I love to “clothe” people —

Question 3: To whom would you award a Fashion Nobel Prize? My first thought would be to

simply to impart a good feeling with fashion. Perceiving the constant changes in fashion is a major feature of my job. It’s never boring or monotonous. Apparel for me has always been an expression of personality, individuality and style. And successfully implementing this — both creatively and technically — is what drives me.

my mentor, Baldur Zeller. He was very tasteful style-wise, and has always known how to inject some individuality and freedom into apparel. I also would consider Werner Baldessarini, who had a significant influence on the fashion industry for decades. He can infect people with his enthusiasm and he knows exactly how a brand or product works.

Question 2: In your opinion, what does your company do best? I consider myself to be a speedboat for the establishment and development of highquality, modern and innovative products and collections for menswear. My team and I can quickly and accurately create products with a lot of know-how for the customer — and we always keep the wearer in mind. My many years of experience with national and international companies are a solid foundation for the establishment of a successful product on the market.


Scope for


Elizabeth Heuberger, Head of Product Development, Löffler

Question 1: What do you especially like about fashion and your job? I love working with fabrics. The intensity of the colors, the feel of the fabrics and the short development cycles throughout the seasons. It is always exciting and new.

Question 2: In your opinion, what does your company do best? Löffler creates most of the materials used in its own knitting factory in Ried. We also have an entire ready-made apparel plant — including cutting facilities — at our Austrian site. This allows us to develop new products very quickly. All the specialists we need are on site.

Question 3: To whom would you award a Fashion Nobel Prize? Coco Chanel would get the Nobel Prize from me: for her collections, her ideas and for her contribution to the development of the female image.



Walter Wählt, Head of CAD/Cutplanning, HUGO BOSS

Question 1: What do you especially like about fashion and your job? Fashion is change and change is my profession. The joint development of a perfect garment, the interplay of the various departments, from crea to production via technical product development and CAD, plus timely delivery ... these are all challenging areas of responsibility. You also need a certain degree of flexibility to do the job.

Question 3: To whom would you award a Fashion Nobel Prize? I would award the Nobel Prize to the inventor of a CAD data format which can export, import and work with all systems without any errors. I think the industry would be very relieved — and it would be the first step into a larger world.

Question 2: In your opinion, what does your company do best? The continuous optimization of processes and the permanent changes are more or less daily routine at HUGO BOSS. But it is also one of the key factors contributing to our success.


Fashion Quest

Our programs as soap stars

The search for the

optimal process begins.



Unix Cad

Windows Cad



The actors and their process connections


Unix Cad


The matriarch of the Fashion clan leads Fashion Quest with a firm hand. She barely works with other family members and she detests new functions.

This busy manager is all about product development. He is Unix Cad’s nephew ... and wants to make Fashion Quest considerably faster.

Windows Cad Her grandson, who wants to bring new ideas to breathe new life into the company. His grandmother gives him a hard time. But Cad isn’t one who gives up easily.

ERP His brother ERP BOS agrees. He takes care of the production, paying special attention to costs and meeting delivery deadlines.

Vidya This Fashion Diva loves Windows Cad. In Fashion Quest, she is responsible for the sales show and the presentation of the collection.

SAM Quite the daughter of her father BOS, SAM completely blossoms in the company, taking care of sales. Nobody can sell fashion like she can.

iSize Size & fit is iSize’s theme. She likes to exchange data with her best friend Vidya whom she has known since childhood.

Automarker and Autocost The house servants of Fashion Quest work for the Clan 24/7, achieving the 3 Ps all over the world ... permanent peak performance.



Automarker and Autocost


THE FIRST SEASON the successful fashion saga For seven generations, the name Fashion Quest has been synonymous with high-quality, successful fashion. Family and business were one. But now this harmony is in danger of being destroyed. While the family clan is preparing fo r this year’s fashion show at the company headquarters in San Modino, the ERP and PLM managers shock the family with bad news.

Episode 1: Incalculable costs Fashion Quest’s costs must be drastically reduced. And the company is losing jobs because its collection development is taking too long. It’s clear to everyone in the family that the time has come for new digital processes. But the matriarch, Unix Cad, wants to retain the family tradition. She wants to hire new staff to finish the collection faster. ERP winces, because this can only aggravate the cost situation. PLM has also sided with the company heir, Windows Cad, who wants to introduce the drastic changes. Episode 2: Cad’s plans The grandson, Windows Cad, demands that his grandmother Unix either makes significant changes or transfers the business. But Unix does not agree. She’ll never give up Fashion Quest. Windows tries to explain to Unix that the Fashion Quest processes are unnecessarily lengthy. Product data could be automatically sent to all sites. But the old lady doesn’t listen to him. Supported by Autocost and Automarker, she gets into her car and drives away. Episode 3: Unix’s sabotage ERP, PLM, CAD and Windows decide on the spot to remove Unix from her position on the supervisory board. Unix, still in her car, hears of this and immediately starts to forge dark plans. She fakes a car accident in which she is supposedly brought to a specialist clinic, seriously wounded. And Unix actually does take a trip … while her family believes her to be abroad, she secretly visits the Fashion Quest suppliers and mixes up all the order data.



Episode 4: Virtual fashion Vidya is horrified. The wrong materials have been delivered for the new collection. And there’s some more bad news too: the Fashion Quest house model has broken both legs in an accident. Was it really an accident? Documentation on size & fit data and basic patterns is nowhere to be found. Unix has taken everything. Luckily, iSize is available. She knows the right sizes and helps Vidya to represent the model. Using Windows Cad, they rework the old-fashioned designs of the Unix collection together — and much of their work is done automatically with Smart.Pattern’s macros. When the press sees the new collection, it’s excited about Vidya’s virtual product presentation. Episode 5: A break with tradition Unix learns about the success of the collection from the newspaper. She’s angry, but also disappointed that Automarker and Autocost can obviously work with Windows Cad a lot more smoothly than she can. She begins to doubt her own abilities. There have never before been disputes in Fashion Quest. But quitting? That’s not Unix’s style! Unable to accept this defeat, she spreads the rumor that Fashion Quest has financial difficulties. The suppliers subsequently accept other orders. For the first time in seven generations, will there be no Fashion Quest collection at the Fashion Show? Episode 6: The race ERP finds a production partner who can even produce parts of the collection as full-purchase models. When he asks for securities, however, ERP BOS gets hot under the collar — the order books are still empty. He consults with Windows Cad — but to no avail. With the courage of despair, Cad goes to the racetrack and bets all his assets on the outsider, Time-to-Market. Meanwhile, ERP and SAM have had a brilliant idea: SAM uses Vidya’s digital designs for sales as well. The good news reaches Cad at the racetrack: Several business houses have pledged to buy. When he hangs up, he can’t believe his eyes. His horse, Timeto-Market has won. Episode 7: Upgrading a legend Loneliness is gnawing at Unix. She misses the bustle of San Modino. But she just can’t keep pace with the new processes and functions. She confesses her treacherous game to Windows Cad and asks his forgiveness. Windows relents, but asks that Unix officially passes over all her data. Now the upgrade to Windows goes smoothly. At the Fashion Show, the matriarch receives applause for her life’s work. With a grand gesture she invites the whole family — CAD, PLM, ERP, Vidya and iSize — on to the stage. Then she retires from the company.

The saga continues … Look forward to the second season with the Fashion Quest Clan!



A fresh perspective often helps.


a new

3D process

The continuous

Although the processes are always the same, they are constantly changing in development and production. And data and requirements are never identical. The continuous technical support of the production process not only undergoes change in predictable or at least comprehensible manner, but also in a more efficient and controllable way. If we look at a process model with and without technology disruptions, increased cost and time factors like redundant data acquisition, for example, immediately catch the eye. Thanks to the optimal data exchange between CAD, PLM and ERP, the entire apparel manufacturing process is supported throughout. Employees along the process can work and react more flexibly. At the same time, continuity offers opportunities for further optimization — in areas such as size & fit or individualization. And 3D plays a major role in this.

There are many ways to begin working with continuous processes. fashion 03 introduces you to four of these.


Sizing & Fitting


Pattern design



3D & Marker & Simulation Material


Product Information Management (PIM)


Enterprise Resource Planning (ERP)

Product Lifecycle Management (PLM)



18 19

Supply Chain Management (SCM) & Ordering








between development and production

Direct data exchange









Immediately available

Step 1: Raw material from PLM to ERP. Purchasing and master data acquisition are winners right from the start. The required raw materials, such as outer fabric, lining fabric, zippers, etc. are transferred directly from the PLM to ERP. Automatically upon product release, for instance. The one-time data input of some 100 materials alone can release several days per collection.

The data transfer is realized in three steps:

PLM GoLive and ERP BOS are already exchanging data. All you have to do here is adapt your data formats and perhaps adjust the data structure — and prepare for optimal communication between development and production. The rest is delivered directly and pays for itself even before the first new release change. And you won’t have to bother about (expensive) interfaces in future either. Step 3: Transfer of finished part products to ERP. If the integration of PLM for Retail and ERP has been fully completed, then one-stop PLM and ERP is a worthwhile investment, even in the case of full-purchase goods. Now you can define your products and then transfer all the product specifications to your partners, with all the information and data they need for production.

Step 2: Piece list from PLM to ERP. Now PLV (outward processing) production also benefits, because it receives the different raw materials in exactly the correct compilation for each product. Time savings are increased to almost one man-year. And because PLM GoLive comanages all CAD data, the production also receives all the latest design information it needs immediately.

The advantage: time savings of several days per collection, because, for example, the redundant entry of data for raw materials and piece lists is eliminated.

Start with the basic axis for continuous processes.

2013 Beginning of ase Full purch

12 End of 20 PLV

20 21



2D product data becomes virtual




r ss f yo u proce & fit o e z i s the

GY YNER lize S ! N TIO o r ea ATTENT: If you als also improve EFFEC D, you can models.







Mobile Sales

3D Simulation


Catalog Webshop


Step 1: Development: CAD — Vidya. Your CAD design is directly incorporated into Vidya for 3D visualization. Your virtual house model is waiting there — and her (his) body dimensions correspond exactly with those in the CAD sizes table. This is an important advantage, because on the one hand, the model looks so real and on the other, only in this way does the cut fit like a glove. Vidya 2012 goes into much finer detail when it comes to imaging creasing. Vidya even simulates the fabric like no other software can. If you’re satisfied with the model, you can still further optimize it.

How virtual model creation works:

Virtual models and images for your sales catalogs will be available much faster than the real equivalents. Not every prototype has to be available in every color and variant. Nevertheless, sales talks with your customers will go much more smoothly when you can show them color combinations and variants in 3D. Step 3: Sales and Marketing: RTT — Service — SAM – Point of Sale. Our partner RTT adds all the natural elements to the simulated model which are missing in the computer, but which are important for our eyes. These include light effects and inherent shadow creation. The result is a photorealistic image which looks just like the photograph of a real sales sample. The images can now be integrated into the webshop, ads, presentations or the digital product catalog in SAM and are thus directly available for your sales force — and always closely connected with your ERP system.

Step 2: Production — multi-site coordination with Vidya. If your partners have difficulty imagining a size 48 European, just send an image from Vidya. The virtual collection is ideal, even for internal coordination with the management. And even if you carry out the final release with samples, you will still save time because you can identify necessary alterations early on.

There’s also the time you lose waiting for the sample production (and perhaps for the house model as well ...). If you make optimal use of your product data, you can save costs and optimize your service to customers.

If your main focus is on costs, this digital process is a must for you. Apparel companies invest almost 10 percent of their sales in their sample collections. How much do you invest?

22 23







fully automated

Never out of stock —








Mobile Sales

Marker making Cut order planning


Step 1b: Or, alternatively, order quantity to ERP via SAM. If the connection to your warehouse storage isn’t running automatically and your POS system doesn’t (yet) communicate with your ERP, you can rely on SAM. The mobile sales system integrates your shops or your dealers directly with ERP BOS (or any other ERP system).

Step 4: Production order ERP — Autocost. Now all that’s missing is the production. The result of the automatic process is the final production order which you can send straight to your partner. And in the right language, of course, with the appropriate labels, tags and accompanying documents. And you can also have BOS create the bill automatically.

Step 3: Order optimization: Autocost — Automarker — CAD. No more printing of markers. It’s not worth it, because the current data is always immediately available via Automarker — and therefore also available via Autocost. So if any alterations are made to the design, Automarker knows about it right away via the CAD link.

Step 1a: Order quantity of inventory and sales system to ERP. ERP BOS works well together with all logistics systems — come what may. Up to five-level storage models can be mapped, even with RFID or barcode recognition.

And how you realize the process:

Step 2: Production order: ERP, PLM and Autocost. Once ERP BOS knows, job scheduling is optimized with Autocost. And of course ERP can also bundle ordering quantities and take into account not only the stores, but also your online retail business. You can intervene at any time and, for example, increase the quantities when your experience tells you that you can expect high sell-offs or that fabric prices are currently low. Autocost calculates all order data, based on the product, material and supplier information from ERP BOS and PLM.

Imagine that your ERP system could derive how many NOS products have to be ordered from your inventory and sales figures. Or the local shop activates its orders through our mobile ERP SAM. And depending on how many NOS products you have, you save time and money. Our automatic NOS process is worthwhile for those who have their own shops or (want to) work closely with retailers.

24 25







integrated into product development

Size & fit optimization —




Size & Fit

D CAD 3D simu- SizeGERMANY lation fashion manikins


Step 2: Pattern inspection: Cad.Assyst — Vidya — SizeGERMANY fashion manikins. You can simply open the sizes table in Cad.Assyst and … from now on it becomes labor-intensive! If you have been working with a different sizes table, you need to match your basic cuts to the new sizes. If you put your basic pattern on to a 3D model in Vidya — and the model corresponds 1:1 to the sizes table — you can see right away where the problem lies. However, those who can imagine their processes outside the computer world will try out their basic patterns on the SizeGERMANY

Step 1: Body dimension data: iSize. It starts with your customers or rather with the body dimensions of your customers. If you have a specific target group in mind, you can determine its sizes and examine it as 3D model in iSize. If your models all have to fit, simply use the SizeGERMANY standard sizes. In every case, there are both digital sizes table and digital scanatars in iSize.

There are many reasons for size & fit optimization ... like quality and market opportunities, for instance. The only arguments against it are in fact the enormous costs and the complexity of such an undertaking. This is why we make it easy for you, ensuring that the current body dimensions of your target group are integrated directly into the development tools. The process of optimizing size & fit actually functions very simply. And best of all — ideally, you have to go through this process once.

Step 4: Size & fit control for PLV (outward processing) and full purchase: SizeGERMANY fashion manikins. You did it! The new size tables have been integrated. If you are a full purchaser, you can skip the above steps or delegate them to your partners. Now you just have to check that the patterns of your current models are also correct. And here too, the SizeGERMANY fashion manikins are ideal — because they can be there for you at any location.

Step 3: Pattern alteration: Cad.Assyst. A blouse can have an incredible number of darts, notches or seams, and these may have to be moved an inch right, left, up or down to match the new sizes table. Smart.Pattern is perfect for carrying out routine basic pattern jobs like this. Depending on the time (or number of trainees) required, the development of an individual macro is worthwhile. We’ll be happy to help you with this.

fashion manikins. These are now available in eight standard sizes for men,women, boys and girls. And because many SizeGERMANY partner companies were involved in the development, the fashion manikin also possesses the features and functionality the fashion industry has always wanted. One form of 3D rendering is important in each case, because any design alteration can lead to discussions which could eventually take in the philosophy of the design. It’s good that you’re aware of the market potential thanks to iSize — that at least is one decisionmaking aid. The second decision-making aid here is Vidya and/or the SizeGERMANY fashion manikins, because the basic size & fit can be seen at first glance.

26 27





What can the new technology do for you?

3D is at the heart of fashion innovation. But what must technology be able to achieve, in order to make its introduction worthwhile? 3D apparel simulation must depict reality as effectively as possible — just as it is needed for the relevant field of application. Reality here means exact body dimensions in the right proportions. The fabric drape must be accurately reproduced, depending on the type and nature of the material. A design must be displayed exactly as it exists in the CAD design — and not in an idealized form that always fits. And the human being, design and fabric must interact together as in real life — even in motion. This is why Vidya scanatars do not simply image the human being externally — they even simulate human skeletal development and movement patterns. Read more about what really matters in fashion 03.


The human being:

The elasticity and thickness of the fabric play a major role in the adaptation of the fabric to the body. These properties must be translated to the movement. This enables the fabric drape and the (desired or undesired) creasing of the future garment to be reproduced as in real life. Vidya enables the high-quality imaging of textures and material properties — even with iridescent materials and transparent or extremely elastic fabrics.

3D only brings added value if avatars have the same dimensions as your customers and can also move like they do. This means that the avatars need the right dimensions in the right proportion to one another, the right body shape, a realistically-crafted, skin-like surface and a clear distinction between the soft and the harder parts of the body. They also need to adopt a relaxed posture and to move during the fitting procedure. Vidya’s imaging of how movement affects the fabric is becoming more and more realistic. And individual, statistical avatars for Vidya can today be created on iSize — avatars which optimally represent every ready-made table.

Cut/Garment: The combination of cut and shape must be optimal in 3D. A shirt, for example, is sewn just as it would be in real life. If the cut is changed, it is re-sewn, just as in real life. The fabric and its properties also have a role to play here, but another major factor is how seams, buttons and the body itself affect the fabric. Today’s imaging quality is extremely high — and it will become even better in future; thanks to ever-finer crease modeling, for instance.

Process integration: 3D is extremely data-intensive. Interaction with other systems such as PLM is especially important — on the one hand to manage the flood of data and on the other, to be able to use the information quickly throughout the entire value chain.


Ten arguments for a

continuous 3D process and three against For 1. High reality factor: The world is three dimensional — and that’s also how we think. A team can more easily discuss models in 3D than those in flat 2D designs. Even pattern designers don’t always recognize errors in a 2D cut. But they do on a 3D model.

8. Workflow automation: Only when the data becomes available can processes be automated or workflows triggered automatically. This translates into time savings, but also greater transparency throughout the process, because the processing status is absolutely transparent.

2. Better size & fit: Design in 3D also addresses the body shape, which has a significant influence on size & fit.

9. Parallel processes: Some individual steps can run in parallel, or at least overlap one another. Like fitting and pattern adaptation, for instance. This also saves time.

3. Tactile quality: 3D data depict reality correctly. What are missing are environmental factors such as light and shadow. These can be added to the visualization, by our partner company RTT, for instance.

10. Timeliness: This point cannot be overestimated. When changes are made in a later process step, the data adapts automatically. Errors or communication costs caused by inconsistent data are eliminated.

4. Savings potential: Because 3D data depicts reality so well, it can replace many physical sample models — and they are not cheap. 5. Capacity for innovation: Product data in 3D affect the entire value chain. 6. Competitive edge: Using 3D in one continuous process can bring great benefits — especially if the data can be easily integrated into management systems such as PLM. 7. Time saving: Thanks to the instant exchange of (correct) data, individual process steps are completed faster. Many interruptions for data entry and waiting times can now be dispensed with.



Against 1. Pioneering work: Anyone who makes 3D today must go his own way. The person who searches for reference examples for imitation purposes will find nothing. This is the flip side of the high competitive advantages that are possible. 2. Change: The continuous process requires an investment in interfaces (not recommended) or products from one source. In each case, massive changes will come about — and they need to be well managed. 3. Rethinking: 3D, automation and time-saving mean changes in the methods of working. New roles and responsibilities arise. Not all employees will be thrilled. So you should be exactly aware of what you want to achieve with the new continuous process, how it will affect your own processes and how you can benefit from it. A clear business case is a prerequisite.




Optimal 3D simulation in Vidya  The range of new possibilities this well-known software provides for fashion visualization is impressively wide. This is especially evident in the precise human modeling and the level of detail of the simulated designs — pushing digital size & fit optimization to a new level.



ď Ž Photorealistic visualization by RTT  Digital apparel models look just as perfect as they would in a professional photo when the software from RTT is used. The use of high-end visualization pays off: in internal coordination, in the sales catalog and in the webshop.


AWARD Inspired by Fashion

The design of Matthias Winter

The design of Berit Janssen



The up-and-coming generation is on the move. Old hands, pay attention! Students of the University of Albstadt-Sigmaringen were the first participants in the Vidya Award. Their task: to develop models from a basic design in 3D. Fabric and color are pre-defined. The results: exciting designs with convincing size & fit. This is especially true of the designs of the award winners, Berit Janssen and Matthias Winter. Their models are both sophisticated and highly individual. At the same time, the specifications for size & fit and 3D visualization were very efficiently — and above all independently — implemented. Both models have an optimal size & fit in Vidya, exactly like that on the SizeGERMANY fashion manikins. Virtuality and reality can be optimally compared.

Register now rd for the Vidya Awa


The next Vidya Award is open to all universities.* Registration is possible until September 2013. The prize money for the winners totals 1500 Euro. *For logistical reasons, support from Assyst is limited to universities with Vidya licensing agreements.


3D in size & fit control Simulation of basic apparel designs compared to reality

More collections and models in ever-decreasing time cycles place heavy demands on product development, but also on marketing and sales. Consumer awareness of size & fit increases at the same time. After costs, this is the main reason to buy. 3D visualization and virtual product development should improve size & fit and make development more efficient at the same time. In a comprehensive study at the University of Albstadt-Sigmaringen, the sizing & fitting possibilities opened up by the new technologies were researched.

Methodology Pattern construction:


• Creating the production pattern according to M. Müller & Sohn (& Son) for blouses and pants in Cad.Assyst • Use of the body dimensions from the Ladies’ wear standard size table SizeGERMANY 2008 for the development of patterns

In principle, a good size & fit can be achieved based on the M. Mueller & Sohn pattern system in combination with the body dimensions of the SizeGERMANY sizes table. The SizeGERMANY sizes table, however, also has additional body sizes. These sizes have not yet been taken into consideration by the M. Mueller & Sohn system, but if they were used today, they could contribute to the improvement of size & fit.

Preparation: • Production of real prototypes with cotton nettle • Creation of virtual prototypes in Vidya

Size & fit try-on: • SizeGERMANY avatars (virtual fashion manikins) with body sizes and shapes which correspond to the Ladies’ wear standard size table SizeGERMANY 2008 • Size & fit deficiencies eliminated thanks to technical pattern alterations. Implementation of the optimization process in Vidya and on other prototypes

Same body sizes and body shape: virtual and physical fashion manikins based on the new SizeGERMANY size 38


The blouse and pants basic cuts thus created have the same size & fit on SizeGERMANY fashion manikins and avatars. Size & fit defects, which were visible on the fashion manikins, could also be seen on the avatar. Problems and errors in the design can therefore be efficiently analyzed and eliminated in a virtual fitting, just as they would be in a real fitting session. This can certainly reduce costs by cutting out several prototypes — and product development can be accelerated.

“The study has demonstrated for the first time that the results of the real and the virtual fitting are really comparable. This clearly shows the great potential of virtual prototyping.” Design Professor (FH) Barbara Puscher, Albstadt-Sigmaringen University

Paper The White tudy on the S

: Order noow




Blouse fitting: First prototype of the blouse before size & fit optimization. It can be seen that the blouse is too wide at the back (drape) on both the fashion manikin and in the simulation. The color-coded multi-width areas in the body distance view in Vidya can be clearly illustrated by suppressing individual pieces.

1. Fabric texture

2. Seam course

3. Body distance

4. Real sewn blouse

Pants fitting: waistband on the second prototype after size & fit optimization. The run of the pant bottom at the upper edge of the waistband from the front, back and on the side seam shows identical results on the fashion manikin and avatar in Vidya.


Management systems Time-to-Market Verticalization

All the trends at a glance The best solutions for challenges in time-to-market, verticalization, quality and profitability — recommended by our Fashion TV Editing Team. Have a great optimization!


Fashion TV Guide


Fashion Talk — in the stores faster ERP BOS supports multi-channel sales and ensures transparency all the way to order management. Real added value for fashion companies or unnecessary work relief for employees? Moderator Mark Kanz and his guests from the worlds of politics and economics discuss the new vertical integration opportunities which ERP by AVM creates.


Time-to-Market Fashion Quest — read more on pages 14-17


Docu Soap Two departments swap their business models. While Huberta L. sews very elegant suits, the easy-going Chantal P. prefers to have the most favorable prices for her models. Can the perfectionist Huberta accustom herself to the wide mass market? And how will Chantal’s external purchasing approach be received by the public? There are problems at first. Then they find common ground: Both work with ERP BOS by AVM and can easily change the business model. A happy ending!


Fashion swap: Full-purchase T-shirt and a PLV suit — can that work?

MON 38





Info magazine

Action Drama


Seam Allowance — the Quality Magazine With more than 200 macros, Smart.Pattern ensures that pattern creation happens faster. To get started, customers can select 10 from a pool of 60 basic macros. Free of charge. But which macro is the best? We get right down to the roots of this question.


Management systems



New PLM software keeps the industry on tenterhooks. It exactly matches the needs of the retail or mail order business with private brands. For example, complete product specifications can be developed and transmitted to the production partner. This hasn’t gone unnoticed. Many department stores want to have the new software all to themselves. Fashion Detective Bradley must prevent this ... and gets caught in the crossfire. After a breakneck chase from Munich to Kaiserslautern, he believes he is finally safe and wants to sell the software to all the companies. What will the industry do Available next?



PLM for Retail: Continuity for full purchasers

From XXS to XXL A new editor for managing grading tables in Cad.Assyst facilitates grading. Sizes or size groups can be easily added or removed. A tension-easing feature for all pattern makers.




Crime thriller

PLM and the Cloud

Crime scene ... “Networked Pattern”

In a pilot project, we make PLM GoLive ready for the Cloud and help to create the centralized product data management. Worldwide access is available with the various PLM clients, either desktop, remote or web. See unique footage of previously untouched data!

Commissioners Trans and Parency are shocked. During a routine check they come across a lot of efficiency corpses. Development quickly becomes a suspect. Then it turns out that there were coordination problems at various sites. Decentralized access to pattern data through Cad.Assyst would have helped. But Production isn’t being totally honest ...



21.45 Uhr


WED 39




Early exercise

Reality Soap

Sewing with Vidya

SizeGERMANY’s top models

We train deep-lying muscle groups in our virtual fitting. Thanks to the smart scanatars, cut pieces and body parts can be matched faster. You will see for yourself that sewing in Vidya is so much easier. An exercise in virtualization and 3D for all to enjoy.

Eight SizeGERMANY fashion manikins with the 1:1 dimensions of the SizeGERMANY serial measurement survey are now available: Women: sizes 36, 38, 42, 46; Men: sizes 50, 54, and Boy/Girl per size, 140/152. The fashion manikins are available as full-body models, or in a modular system with separate models for torso and lower body fashion manikins. Which one is your favorite?



3D development






Fashion Quest. Fast Fashion — good size & fit (Episode 5).


iSize and Vidya are running a high collection fever. The 3D diva can even master the simulation of graded sizes blindfolded. Windows Cad challenges the two of them. Can you beat a process using physical prototypes in speed, quality and cost? Both of them are very sure they can.




The Italians want to measure themselves. Following the successful SizeGERMANY model, Italy will soon have its own serial measurement program. The survey is driven by economic interests: better size & fit for fashion on the Italian market. This means that 6,000–9,000 men, women and children between the ages of 6 and 75 will be scanned in 3D. The survey will be launched in the summer of 2012 in Milan . Become a partner now!

22:45 Uhr

SOS — Scanatar download


How does an Internet figure become a proper scanatar? In the current program, our team shows you how you can quickly develop individual scanatars. A simple exercise: Using iSize, choose a suitable avatar with SizeGERMANY standard sizes, click Download and save it. That’s it! And even self-developed scanatars can be easily created. In iSize, choose the correct target group and display the scanatar in the Preview mode. Now you can exclude non-matching figure types. And an individual scanatar is finished — one with which your company will enjoy working.

NEW 40






Retail Cross-section





Movie of the Week



Fashion Mirror. The right thing for every industry. Worldwide on the Internet. The software service Automarker can be quickly adapted to meet industryspecific needs. The latest news: paired laying for menswear or calculation of material requirements by weight, for T-shirt fabrics, for instance. We’ll keep you up-to-date.


21:15 Uhr


Mystery Series Clever pieces. Laying rules in CAD or psychic powers? Uncannily helpful. Thanks to Smart.Label definitions in CAD, piece rules are automatically taken into consideration in Automarker. Example: left and right front parts laid side-by-side, pocket always in the armhole, leading edges always together. Is there a natural explanation?

A dress for Vidya Young Paul has big plans. When he unexpectedly inherits the apparel company of his grandparents, he believes his big chance has come at last. He eliminates all the technical interfaces, introduces 3D and produces only a third of the previous sample pieces. In his company’s own stores, he offers his customers a unique shopping experience with bodyscanners for virtual fitting. At the same time he creates a seamless flow of data, from development to the point of sale. At a management meeting he wants to demonstrate his new process using a dress as an example. However, his process doesn’t go down well with the workforce, although he realizes incredible savings. The Design Manager Jule is especially vehement in his objections to this innovation. When the company is snowed in during a heavy snow storm, the two get together to design a model with the new process. And everyone is finally convinced.






SUN 41

We think in 3D Virtual prototyping has three dimensions: time, costs and quality. Christoph Karrasch from RTT, the high-end visualizers and Dr. Andreas Seidl absolutely agree on this point. They also believe that in a few years from now, 3D will be as common in the apparel world as CAD is today. They talked with fashion 03 about the facts (and the myths) of virtual prototyping and its strategic dimensions for the fashion industry.

Christoph Karrasch is the CEO of RTT AG, well-known for its leading high-end visualization in 3D


Focus fashion: Many companies are considering virtual prototyping, but they are unsure about it. In your opinions, what are the plus points of 3D? Seidl: For companies with their own product development, virtual prototyping is the grand prize. Not only for cost reasons, but also because the designs are more innovative. They can make their message much more visible and pick up on trends much better. And if they have their own shops, the scenario is perfect. Karrasch: Many people tend to reduce 3D technology to the quality of the image. But any decision for virtual prototyping should be based on the visual understanding and the digital communication of new designs. The results are tangible, economic benefits in costs, time and quality. 3D can accelerate development processes by 20 to 50 percent. Our customers are therefore closer to the market or they save the costs of one to two-thirds of their sales samples. This releases an enormous amount of capital.

fashion: What mistakes can be made in 3D prototyping? Karrasch: Today, it would be wrong to make no mistakes through lack of trying. The biggest mistake in the market is to think that technology is not yet advanced enough. Today we can visualize everything in such a way that it’s as if a professional photographer just took a picture. In the virtual world anything is possible, but some things just do not work automatically. The decision for or against is a question of the business case in question. We discuss with our customers at the outset whether or not it’s worth introducing the 3D prototype. If you have to manually visualize 80 % of a suit, you’ll naturally be skeptical at first. If this basic pattern reappears in every collection, however, then the investment pays for itself after the second season at the latest. The 3D information remains as is from collection to collection.

Dr. Andreas Seidl is the CEO of Human Solutions, Assyst and AVM. As the

fashion: What should today’s apparel industry know about 3D prototyping? Karrasch: Virtual Reality expands our possibilities. It complements the physical process, but does not, however, replace it. Cutting costs for all the prototypes and samples would be utopian. However, we can massively reduce their number while at the same time gaining quality and flexibility in the development process. Armed with this knowledge, you can plan realistically with virtual prototyping. Seidl: We think in 3D, so we are able to work even better. 3D brings a completely new scope for action to the process. For example, I can develop models which correspond exactly to my sizes table. If I want, I can hide the back piece in the visualization, just to see how well it lies on the body. I can swap materials or colors immediately and repeat the fitting any time I want. I can’t do that with a real prototype. But what is really important here is the fact that all the data which I create doesn’t just have a selective effect at one location — it affects the whole company, because with us virtualization is an inherent part of the existing processes.

“We think in 3D, so we can also work better in this way.”

Human Solutions Group, the three companies combine best-in-class technologies into a seamless process

For companies with their own product development, virtual prototyping is the grand prize. fashion: What advice would you give a company that wants to start 3D development? Seidl: You have to imagine starting with virtual prototyping as if you were setting up a new product segment: If you’ve never made menswear, it will of course take longer, but you gain momentum with every visualized piece. You build up a 3D library of your own collections, as it were — in addition to the 2D patterns in CAD. The more you have, the more you can re-use. And the sooner you start, the more your benefit exponentially in speed, costs and time savings. Now you can approach


3D in a more relaxed manner — and at your own speed. You will then have to play catch up with the market again at a later point in time. fashion: Both of you have worked for a long time together in the automotive industry in the virtual product development sector. Would you say it’s a case of “Automotive leads the way and we follow”? Karrasch: No, definitely not. The automotive industry has achieved a lot in virtual product development, but the apparel industry goes its own way. If it’s up to us, at any rate … The differences are too great. Fashion has a highly complex product, because apparel — in contrast to a vehicle — interacts permanently with human beings. Your car doesn’t stretch when you stretch — but your T-shirt does. This creates very different challenges for simulation and visualization. And the development cycles in fashion are extremely short. There’s no time to work on a particular model for months on end. Visualization must be in real time — this is our benchmark today.

fashion: You implement projects together and your technologies are closely linked with one another. Why have the Human Solutions Group and RTT just found one another? Karrasch: We have worked together for a long time in the automotive industry — and each of us is aware of what the other can achieve. Of course we both bring lots of experience with us from the automotive industry. However, the geometries of a 3D vehicle are simple compared to apparel. Without Vidya and the correct imaging of the human being, pattern and fabric, photorealistic visualization would be impossible. I believe I can speak for both of us when I say that each of us has chosen the best technology on the market for himself — and each has selected a partner who will help the other move forward. For instance, Human Solutions has gained a great deal of knowledge and experience in the motion behavior of human beings. Conversely, RTT can give much in terms of material, feel and optics.

“Clients are often speechless, because they can almost feel the fabrics with their eyes.“

fashion: How does the road ahead look for the fashion industry? Seidl: Real-time visualization, high-quality simulation, integration with PLM and ERP and the effective use of 3D. The automotive industry is still performing a balancing act between 2D and 3D. And that’s also easier to do with rigid objects. In the fashion industry today, it also works like this: develop and alter in 2D, and try-on the garment again and again in 3D — in a real or a virtual fitting procedure. The avatar only replaces the fashion manikin or the model. This does save a lot of time, but we want to realize another way for fashion, one which brings even more benefits. Our goal is to alter patterns in 3D and adapt the 2D design in a procedure which is as automated as possible.



fashion: What can we expect from 3D technology in the next few months or years? Karrasch: Our products Vidya and RTT DeltaGen are closely linked and have reached a level at which everything can now be visualized. We are conducting intensive research to enable processes to be much more automated and to function in real time. We often need only a minute for the first visualization of a basic model today — but for very complex models, such as a translucent ladies’ top with a cast shadow, we might need two days. Once the model is there, everything goes much faster, because we build on what already exists. And the automated initial simulation is becoming more and more powerful: today we see something new every month. Not only because we carry out research, but also because we solve the current problems of our customers. Recently we learned how to simulate oil streaks on a pair of jeans and we’ll soon have perfected the crumpled effect of down jackets.

“Today we can visualize everything in such a way that it appears to have been photographed.”

Seidl: We are also working flat out to image human beings in photorealistic quality and expand the ability to move. A year ago it was unthinkable that we could model avatars. Now they can adopt postures and we can even give them a six-pack abdomen — even if the scanned person was just normally trained beforehand. In the not too distant future, we will send virtual models down the catwalk — and they’ll be indistinguishable from genuine ones. The imaging of the skin is no longer a problem. On the other hand, the interaction of hair and clothing is problematical — but we’ll solve that one too. fashion: That sounds as if the fascination factor is just as important as the rational benefits? Karrasch: Of course, we want to be the best — and enthusiasm is part of that. It’s certainly all about gaining time and saving costs … in every case. But when the designers crowd around the screen with us and see their models imaged for the first time, we’re all initially speechless, because you can almost touch those designs with your eyes … then I get goose bumps. Seidl: These are really dramatic moments that offer a glimpse of how powerful virtual prototyping can be — and also economically, because if it becomes evident that collections can be hanging in the stores eight weeks earlier than normal, it’s not only the designers and ourselves whose hearts beat faster, but the entire management team gets excited.



is ready to go

The Italians have changed. But just how much have they changed? No one knows for sure. To acquire reliable information on the current body dimensions of the Italian population, leading companies are combining their resources. With a comprehensive serial measurement survey, they want better sizing & fitting for their collections, ensuring optimal market potential in the target market of Italy. The role model in this case is the successful SizeGERMANY serial measurement survey with more than 14,000 test persons.

Better results with high-tech surveying. SizeITALY is different from ordinary serial measurement surveys. It uses market-leading 3D body scanners instead of the manual taking of measurements. This means that 6,000–9,000 men, women and children between the ages of 6 and 75 can be scanned in all the regions of Italy. Around 44 measurements are acquired automatically. The measurement procedure for each individual test person is thus exactly the same and is absolutely accurate. This makes it compatible with all the relevant standards, like the new EU sizes tables, for instance. And thanks to 3D, the body shape — which has a considerable influence on size & fit — is also taken into consideration. The scan data is stored anonymously and can be electronically evaluated at any time. A good combination: Size & fit and consumer information. Another difference between the SizeITALY survey and other measurement studies is the linking of size & fit and economic interests. SizeITALY participants know their customers like no other and can act accordingly in the market. This is why the measurement data is combined with additional information. Comfort and social background questions like wearer preferences, purchasing behavior, income, age, ethnicity, hobbies, education level and satisfaction with the previous size & fit of apparel

on the market are also on the SizeITALY questionnaire. This combination of size & fit demands and the data of a company’s own target group not only affect the quality of the products, but also the sales figures. Active involvement of the SizeITALY partners. A key success factor of SizeGERMANY is the close involvement of the participating companies. More than 140 companies are SizeGERMANY partners — and they are still working together today in order to utilize the acquired data as effectively as possible. SizeITALY will be run along similar lines: an advisory panel will coordinate the planning and evaluation of the measurement survey. In this way, the SizeITALY partner companies can represent their interests and help determine the course of the survey before and during the measurement procedure. Optimal use of the data. The results — as in the SizeGERMANY survey — will be made available online on the body dimensions portal iSize, where they can be used interactively and integrated directly into the development process. This will enable companies to select their target groups by region, age or garment size, to optimize their sizes tables and to import the adjusted tables directly into Cad.Assyst.

“We know the customers who come into our stores, but not the ones who don’t correspond to the size & fit of our models. We are participating in the SizeITALY project, because we are convinced that we will obtain better information for our future sizing & fitting, particularly in the Italian market.” Maurizio Malagosti, Direttore Tecnico, Manifatture Del Nord, Max Mara Group





Start: Summer 2012 End: expected 2014 Test persons: 6,000–9,000 men, women and children aged between 6 and 75 years Sites: Planned in all regions of Italy Participation: different participation models for SizeITALY, with gradations in rights of use and economic reimbursement via data utilization

ASSYST IN ITALY Peter Stampfli, CEO of the Italian Assyst subsidiary, is bringing the SizeITALY 3D measurement survey to Italy. Assyst is an established technology partner for the apparel industry in that country, with clients such as Brioni, Diesel and Max Mara. His team will be reinforced with personnel from the SizeGERMANY survey.

“In the Italian fashion industry, it is now time to invest in the development of a new tool, one with which we can to know our market better, and be able to play an active role in the EU Commission in the definition of new apparel sizes.” Pietro Pin, Product Assurance Manager, Benetton Group


Three technology leaders — a first-class portfolio

Things are on the move. Not only in Kaiserslautern, but also in Munich and Aschaffenburg. Since 2011 , Human Solutions, Assyst und AVM have been acting as a single entity in the form of the Human Solutions Group. Together, they form Germany’s leading full service supplier of technology in the apparel industry ... and one which can be counted on all over the world. The Human Solutions Group offers integrated technologies that support the apparel manufacture from development to the point of sale — without interfaces. Human Solutions, Assyst and AVM develop their products together and with the same strategic guidelines. Dr. Andreas Seidl, who heads all three companies within the Group, makes sure that the Group pursues this approach. Under his direction, the three companies combine their skills to work in cross-group teams and create valuable synergies.

Assyst manages the development technologies CAD and PLM, in order to increase production through automation, intelligent tools and virtual prototyping. Human Solutions provides all the dimensions and tools for optimizing size & fit in PLV and for full purchase. AVM — with ERP — provides flexibility in inventory management and helps to halve processing times in production. All are jointly responsible for the optimal integration of the technology landscape.

The Human Solutions Group … live. The new Internet portal has been online since the spring of 2012.


With more than 1,000 customers, partners in 50 countries and over 185 experts, the group is today large enough to operate on a global basis — but at the same time, it is also still flexible enough to realize and operate wholly individual technology concepts with its customers. To preserve the diversity of skills, all three companies remain independent. Outwardly they act together as a unit. One visible sign of this is the new Internet Portal of the Human Solutions Group. Since the spring of 2012, it has combined all the companies, divisions and subsidiaries of the Group and can be accessed through all the known web addresses.

The Human Solutions Group for Fashion: •  P  roduct development: CAD, virtual prototyping, sizing & fitting, fashion manikins •  Management systems: PLM, ERP, Mobile Sales •  Manufacturing: Marker Making, Cut Order Planning •  Retail: Bodyscanning, MtM, virtual fitting •  Service: seamless, global IT support


Research for technology that makes the difference

Best-in-class technology isn’t free … and the Human Solutions Group conducts intensive research to this end — alone or in conjunction with partners worldwide. The guiding principles here are the clear strategic goals, which result from the Group’s close cooperation with its customers. In this way, new and profitable routes are created in development, production and at the point of sale, focusing on 3D design, virtualization and on the integration and deployment of knowledge in this process, for instance.

Virtual Prototyping. 3D works. Now the important thing is to provide it for operational processes. And to achieve this, the variety of fabrics available on the market must be quickly integrated. The models themselves can also do more: they should be able to make sophisticated, natural movements — and be able to image designs which also contain highly complex elements such as interlinings and multiple layers.

Grateful thanks to our funding partners:

3D from the outset. One essential element of research by Human Solutions is designing in 3D: A new model is then sketched in realtime on the avatar in 3D. Drawings are no longer required, because the effect on the body can be immediately assessed. On the 3D sketch, the designer can carry out further modifications to the design lines or execute them on the 3D piece itself. Then the prototype is created. Right now, the CAD teams of the Human Solutions Group are also intensively developing the linking of Cad.Assyst and Vidya.

Integration with an overall process — information where it’s needed. Data isn’t meant to be in a drawer. That’s why Human Solutions wants to integrate information with the tools used on a daily basis by its customers. To this end, PLM and ERP are directly linked and the knowledge gained from a company’s many years of experience can be made available in the active processes Cad.Assyst, Vidya and Automarker. Today you can already see this in the iSize tables of sizes in CAD or in the fabric parameters in Automarker. This knowledge integration is a unique selling point for Human Solutions and for its customers, because it eliminates redundant data entry and makes the process flow independent of employees who may be on vacation.

Current research projects of the Human Solutions Group on virtual prototyping, size & fit and knowledge integration: •  SmartMatBase 3D: Fabric parameters integrated quickly — in collaboration with the Technical University of Dresden •  SkEtch 3D: The 3D model design on the avatar replaces the 2D sketch •  FFD: New ways for more speed, accuracy and the distribution of 3D simulation •  EuroFit: 3D body dimension data of 120,000 test persons around the world … on one platform •  Fashion-able: 3D for everyone — may soon be on the collaborative SaaS platform for fashion SMEs in Europe


SaaS, Cloud & Co.

Freedom seems to be limitless in the Cloud and just about everything is available: computer networks, applications, services. fashion 03 shows you what’s possible today in the apparel industry — and what, in our view, makes sense in the Cloud.

What can the Cloud do for you? Ideally, whatever you want. Advantage number one is obviously the cost savings resulting from the scaling effect. Sounds logical … and it is. Instead of licensing, maintaining and updating software individually, share the expenses with many other companies. Unlike license models, you only pay for your software when you need it. So you can always work with your usual program and always have the desired performance — without the need to keep unnecessary licenses for peak loads. The prime examples of successful service in the Cloud are Automarker and Autocost. Why are they so successful? Both fulfill clearly defined tasks and are closely associated with the existing corporate IT despite the Cloud — with ERP, for instance. The integration of manufacturing partners is a breeze — and is mainly a question of the allocation of well-secured user rights.



Not every program is a Cloud type — but some can be. Currently, the natural boundary for fashion in the Cloud is the computational intensity of the task. 3D simulation in real time is not for slimline infrastructure circuits. For programs such as ERP and PLM, however, delicate experiments are perfectly appropriate. The market already has some Cloud ERP systems in place — but they have rigid structures and minimum flexibility in process adjustments. If such adjustments are carried out, the scaling effect is more or less dead. This is why PLM GoLive realizes an advantage of the Cloud, in a kind of preliminary stage: Apparel companies can use various clients to access their PLM databases. And there are some companies that work exclusively with the web client of the PLM software. But there is more: Assyst is currently realizing a first Cloud pilot project in which the PLM database is hosted centrally — in an exclusive Cloud of course.

Use the Cloud according to your taste. Anything that adds value is allowed. As a fashion company, you can freely decide whether you want to use the Cloud in the intranet and centrally host all your design data, for instance. Central hosting is good, because it reduces IT costs. A database at headquarters can be more easily maintained than a lot of data on countless computers at different locations. On the technical side, you’ll notice that you have less redundancy, rapid availability and lower error sources noted, because all your data is always current. The disadvantage of centralized data is your dependence on a correctly-functioning infrastructure. By now many of you will be smiling knowingly. With centralized data management, the individual sites are not independent. If the infrastructure fails, the employees — in a worst-case scenario — must sort pins, spring-clean the office or desperately try to send design data by e-mail. That was not the intention of the inventor. However, negative scenarios must not be allowed to blind us to the enormous benefits for the fashion industry. Here too, a well-designed mixed concept is recommended. Depending on the bandwidth of the data lines (and the internal protection), some sites can work with centralized data. Other sites can compare specific data ranges at pre-defined times. Assyst realizes projects like this, very often in completely different constellations in the CAD sector — exactly according to the specific needs of companies.

The last major issue with the Cloud is the security. That’s an easy one … a solidly-secured computer network with appropriate encryption is safer by far than an individual e-mail (or paper), which is stored out of your reach on the various computers (or in the desk drawers) of your project partners. The great advantage of the Cloud is the fact that (almost) everything can be controlled centrally. And so only those who are involved see your data — and only for as long as you want.



inspired! This could be your Cloud scenario.

Cloud hybrid system: the CAD model


Online access to the Cloud


Online access to the Cloud


LOCATION — EASTERN EUROPE Defined synchronization


Project-based electronic data communications

The CAD model is elegant in its hybrid form, which is ideal in every case for the local infrastructures.


The Cloud in pure form: The Automarker model


Online access to the Cloud






The Automarker model shows the pure Cloud with all its advantages. With over two million laying orders, already a popular classic for laying markers.

Cloud preliminary stage: PLM model

GERMANY Stationary database

Defined synchronization


GERMANY Stationary database

Project-related data access


The PLM model is almost a Cloud already. An effective ensemble for flexible, cross-location data access.



How can we become more productive — without compromising

on quality?

Apriori uses Automarker and Autocost to cut pre-production phase costs. Laurèl is also currently testing the programs structured laying and job optimization on demand. Apriori, a top label in the upper middle price range, has used Automarker und Autocost for some years now. Every pre-calculation and marker originates from the Assyst software. Today Apriori needs an average of five minutes for six to eight markers — with consistent quality. The data for job order planning and preliminary costing in Autocost comes straight from the ERP and PDM systems. Styles are imported from the CAD. Preliminary costing has become significantly easier and is today the basis for reliable pricing. Even experienced marker layers benefit from this massive lightening of their workload. Data conversion is also used in addition to the laying services. Even at Laurèl. Laurèl used to be a little hesitant when it came to automated laying. In the premium apparel segment, even higher standards of quality and workmanship are the norm. However, reliable material savings and order optimization have a particular impact here.


Automated laying in the premium segment Klaudia Wirtz, responsible for CAD & PDM system management at Laurèl, is very interested in the new function portfolio, Rubberband for structured laying. Automarker first “learns” all the things which are intuitively taken into consideration in manual laying. Rubberband can redefine the preferred pairing of certain pieces for each model. And the results speak for themselves. A major part of the current collection can be laid automatically thanks to corresponding individual adjustments in Automarker. “We are delighted with the new features of structured laying, because Automarker has now also become a viable program for us in the premium segment.” Klaudia Wirtz, CAD & PDM System Management, Laurèl

amples Enjoy many ex e of best practic e in the next issu of fashion!

Imprint Acknowledgements: many customers and partners helped us with interviews, information and pictures. Our thanks to each and everyone of them! Publisher: Assyst GmbH Max-Planck-Str. 3 D-85609 Aschheim-Dornach/Germany Tel.: +49-89-90 505 0 Fax: +49-89-90 505 271 Responsible for the editorial content: Alexandra Seidl, Human Solutions GmbH ( Compilation and layout: Marketing Essentials (Angelika Methner, Annegret Schall-Ceppa, Claudia Collin) Translation: Kevron Translations (Ron Shankland) Š The Assyst GmbH and Human Solutions GmbH have the 2012 copyright for all articles and illustrations, unless stated otherwise. Any form of reproduction, inclusion in online services and the Internet and copying to data carriers like CD ROMs, DVD ROMs etc., may only be carried out with express, prior permission in writing from Assyst GmbH or Human Solutions GmbH.

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