This page from left: Bettys; The Mercer Gallery.
Images: Corbis, Shutterstock, Hotel Du Vin, Bettys, The Mercer Gallery
‘People seem far readier to stop, chat and joke than their stressed-out counterparts in London...’
flowerbeds and, when I visited, a fantastic fun fair, which combined petrifying-looking modern rides (a word to the wise – do not attempt these post-Betty’s) with Victorian fare like coconut shys and merrygo-rounds. Then it was time for a spot of culture – I swang by the Mercer Art Gallery, a well-curated attraction filled with 19th and 20th century art. The Mercer offers a crash course in the area’s culture and history: I spent a happy couple of hours sauntering round, engrossed in portraits of proud Victorian merchants and bucolic landscapes. After a full day delving into the delights of Harrogate, I returned to my hotel and popped to its gorgeous Bistro du Vin for dinner. This place is a real treat, combining a relaxed bistro feel (low lighting, friendly service, Parisian décor) with first class food. I started with an out-of-this-world scallop ceviche, finished off with a twist of lemon, before moving on to a superb steak, served sizzling on a board and accompanied by a punchy béarnaise sauce, crunchy fries and indulgent onion rings. The room buzzed with life: although it’s only been in operation for a few years, it has become the main place for
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Kanoo World Traveller September 2011
well-to-do locals to meet over a meal, knocking many of the older, stuffier hotels off their perches. The service is friendly and informal – the same as I found it to be throughout the town. People seem far readier to stop, chat and joke than their stressed-out counterparts in London – the famed Yorkshire warmth is pleasingly real. Visitors to Harrogate often use the place as a base for exploring some of the region’s other attractions. The quaint, picture-perfect nearby town of Knaresborough is only a short trip by train, and the rolling valleys and walking trails of the massive, pea-green Yorkshire Dales are just a 20 minute car ride away. Sadly I didn’t have time for much more than a short visit to the lovely Ripley Castle and its beautiful gardens, followed by a quick trip to a local farm shop (the excellent ‘Fodder’, which sells gourmet products from across the county: their jams and chutneys are enough to make gourmets weak at the knees) before it was time to hit the long road down south. I wasn’t worried though – I knew I’d be back soon. Yorkshire had got under my skin.