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4H State Show

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Publisher Jim Hargrove Editor John Hawfield Advertising Sales Manager Colt Williams

Horses Magazine

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• Horses Magazine has no liability for content, representations in advertisements, and articles may not express the opinion of the editors/publishers/owners. It is the buyer’s sole responsibility to clarify any and all advertising representations. We cannot be held responsible for any representations concerning a horse’s health, eye status, disposition, gait or any other aspect of the horse. Any burden of proof rests solely on the advertisers. • Horses Magazine reserves the right to edit or refuse any advertising or articles submitted for publication. We do not assume any liability for errors, but will correct it in next issue or a credit will be negotiated. Designs by Horses Magazine are the property of Horses Magazine. • Articles, editorials opinions in Horses Magazine do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the staff of Horses Magzine or the publishers. • Address changes must be sent in 6 weeks in advance, magazines are not forwarded by the U.S. Post Office. • Copyright 2017 by Jim Hargrove Creative, Inc. All or part of Horses Magazine, including logos, cannot be reprinted without permission. • Horses Magazine is published twelve times a year by Jim Hargrove Creative, Inc., 2730 Lansing Rd., Bancroft, MI 48414

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Horses Calendar

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Richard Winters

Rider to Horseman With Richard Winters Horsemanship

Over a year ago I started the arduous process of writing a book on horsemanship. It’s being published by Western Horseman and will be released next month. In this issue, I want to give you a sneak preview of “Rider to Horseman”. This is an excerpt from the introduction. Hope you enjoy it. Just because I have written a book on horsemanship doesn’t mean that I am not like you. We are simply people who love horses and everything about them I’ve heard some people say that this love of horses must be genetic. Maybe that’s right. However, I have a sister who never thought a thing about horses. Same sire. Same dam. Yet we could not be more different. Whatever it is, it’s in our hearts

and in our blood. It motivates us to clean stalls and pay vet bills. It causes us to come home early from parties so that we can feed our horses. We have even come to grips with the fact that our chosen hobby and passion could cause serious bodily injury or even death.

None of these things stop us. And the fact that you have chosen this book tells me that you not only love horses, but are also committed to improving your own horsemanship skills and knowledge. Me too! And perhaps the only difference between myself and many of you is the fact that I have the privilege to get up every morning and do this for a living. If horsemanship were not my vocation, I would be spending my evenings, days off and every weekend playing with horses and working to improve

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my own horsemanship skills. Probably just like most of you. Horsemanship is a journey. After forty years of horsemanship I realize that I will never arrive at the destination or finish line. I think I’m a better horseman now that I was 20, 10 or even 5 years ago. However, I would be the saddest cowboy in Nevada if I thought that I would not be a better horseman five years from now than I am today. If we are not going to arrive at the destination, let’s determine to enjoy the journey. That’s what this book is about: A journey. In my early twenties I thought I had this whole horsemanship thing figured out. Now, thirty years later there are some days that I have more questions than I have answers! I’m asking questions now that I

didn’t even know to ask as a young aspiring horseman. We can bluff our way through a lot of areas in our lives. However, horses know when we know and they know when we don’t know.

these ideas with me. Others I figured out on my own after having done the wrong thing too many times. At best I’m sharing with you what has been shared with me. At worst, I’m allowing you to learn from my mistakes.

Has your horse ever fed you a piece of “humble pie”? Horses are the great equalizers. They don’t really care whether you’re male or female, young or old. They don’t care how much money you have or what kind of car you drive. They simply want to be safe and comfortable. It’s amazing what they will do for us once other things are put aside and these two criteria are met. Horses do not want to be leaders. Horses are natural followers. If this book can help you with your leadership skills, then I would consider my mission accomplished.

This is a great time to be pursuing horsemanship. When I was a boy, all of the horse training techniques were big secrets. There was not a lot of communication with or from great trainers. That’s not the case anymore. There’s a free flow of information. From books and magazines, DVDs, online information, expos and clinics. You can now learn from some of the greatest talents in the horse industry. It’s not a secret anymore. If you have the desire to learn, the resources are readily available. There’s just no excuse to be ignorant anymore!

Gracious horsemen and women who have helped me along the way shared many of

If you read something in this book that seems to contradict something else you have seen or read, don’t be too worried.

Horsemanship is an art, not a science. There is a lot of room for differing opinions and techniques. It’s my opinion that all the great horsemen and women today are all doing the same thing their own way. The styles, tools and techniques change. The verbiage and presentation may differ. Yet it all continually comes back to presenting an idea to a horse in a way that they can understand. Making the right thing easy and the wrong thing difficult. Being firm as necessary, yet gentle as possible and rewarding the slightest try. This book is not intended to tell you “the” way to do it. My horsemanship style is simply “a” way. If everything goes according to plan, I hope to write a new book in five years with the “new and improved” version. Until then, don’t judge me too harshly. I’m still a work in progress! Enjoy the journey.

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Lynn Palm

Make Your Trail Ride a Picnic By Lynn Palm It’s time to apply all the great trail training we have covered to do a fun activity with your horse—going on a picnic. Be sure to follow all of the previous steps for training your horse on the trail covered in previous articles before heading out. Once you have included a warmup for the horse and a warm up for the rider, it is time for the picnic pack up. A number of good companies now make saddlebags that allow picnic items to be safely and conveniently carried on horseback. There are bags that fit or attach on either the front or back of the saddle. Generally a western saddle, or a saddle specifically made for trail riding, will give more attachment points for carrying bags. Plan the packing list of what to bring on the picnic at least one day, if not a week, ahead of the departure date. Try to pack as lightly as possible. When packing, always put heavier items or long items over the pommel or at the horse’s wither area in front of the saddle, rather than off the back of the saddle. Of course, pack heavier items on the bottom of the saddlebag to keep it weighted down. Try to balance the weight within each individual saddlebag. Distribute the weight between saddlebags as evenly as possible.

Besides the picnic goodies, remember to bring some important items for your horse. Put a halter on him, either under or over the bridle, with a good lead and snap attached. Tie the end of the lead around his neck using a knot that will not hang down so low that it gets caught between his legs. Equip him with protective boots, especially if he is wearing shoes. After the rider’s warm-up is completed and the horse has been warmed up at the walk, trot, and canter in both directions; plan how the ride will be conducted. Whether riding by yourself or with friends, decide what gaits to work in during the ride. Consider the experience levels of the horses and the riders, the trail’s terrain, and the distance to be covered. Options include doing the trail totally at the walk, walk-trot, or walk-trot-canter. The speed within each gait can be varied to add more variety. Once the horse is packed, do a short under saddle warm-up to make sure everything is secure and will stay in place during the ride. Then it’s time to hit the trail! Once the picnic destination is reached, find a tree to tie the horse to. Because the halter and lead are already on the horse, you will not have to change tack to tie him. Select a spot to tie him where, within a 360-degree circle, there is enough room between him and the next

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horse that they cannot touch. Always tie the lead rope high. The knot should be at the ear level of the horse. Always use a slipknot to tie him, putting the end of the lead through the slipknot so he cannot pull on the end and untie himself. The length of the lead allowed between the tree and the horse is also very important. It should be taunt at the horse’s natural head level. If he is tied lower than this, he has the chance of getting a leg over the lead. Secure the reins so the horse cannot get them over his head or step through them If your horse is a beginner at being tied on the trail, he will probably move around the tree and/ or paw at the ground. These behaviors show his lack of experience and patience. Have the picnic in a spot where you can keep an eye on him. Just watch him, but don’t interfere unless he gets into trouble. Leave him alone and he should settle down in a while. The more you recognize or acknowledge his impatient behavior, the more he will act up. Favorite Recipe!

Here is one of my favorite picnic dishes to make ahead of time and take in my saddlebag on a trail ride picnic. It is super easy to make, tastes great, keeps well, and will give you the energy to ride the rest of the day! Lynn’s “Crispy Oriental Noodle Salad” Step 1: Cut one large head of Napa cabbage into long, thin slices Slice up the bulbs only of 8-10 green onions. Mix together. Step 2: Melt one stick of butter. Crumble into the melted butter 2 packages of ramen noodles (from a ramen noodle soup package without the seasoning packet). Add in ½-cup of sesame seeds and 2-1/2 ounces of slivered almonds. Mix together. Step 3: Combing 1 cup of oil, 1 cup of sugar, ½-cup of vinegar, and 2-teaspoons of soy sauce. Mix together. Step 4: Mix the ingredients of Steps 1, 2, and 3 together just before serving. Hint: To keep this salad nice and crispy, I like to pack the ingredients from each step in separate containers and mix them together just before the picnic begins. Your Next Step… If a horse that is tied during a trail picnic gets too fretful or uncontrollable, you need to address the issue. Here is how turn the situation into a learning experience for him. Untie the horse from the tree and lead him to a spot closer to the picnic where he can graze. Let him graze for 10-15 minutes, then tie him again at the tree. Allow him to remain tied for 10-15 minutes, then untie him and let him graze again for the same amount of time. Alternate between short segments of the horse being tied and grazing. This should calm him down while teaching him to accept tying. The more you take the horse on the trail and expose him to being tied, the more he will accept this. When the picnic is over, it is time to pack up for the trip home. The good news for the horse is that his packs should be lighter. Because of the weight difference, be sure to re-secure all packs and bags to the saddle and make sure they are balanced properly. After returning from the picnic, be sure to cool out your horse. With cold-water sponge his legs, back, girth area, between his legs, and where the headstall of the bridle lies before putting him back in his stall or into the trailer. Cooling these areas will help prevent stiffness and soreness. Be sure to give him a treat and a pet to say “thank you” for a great picnic trail ride together! Until then, follow your dreams…

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Do You Have A Question?

Equine Law Topics Fine Tune Your Equine Lease to Avoid Legal Battles Equine-related leases have been increasingly popular. In the horse industry, lease arrangements include horse leases, pasture leases, breeding stock leases, barn or facility leases, and others. Disputes sometimes do occur, however, generating time-consuming and expensive lawsuits. Here are some common problems associated with equine leases and a few suggestions for avoiding them. Basic Lease Terminology Leases involve terms that are unfamiliar to many people. For example, the “lessor” in a lease is the one who owns the horse or property at issue and has the ability to temporarily transfer possession, custody, and use of it to another. The “lessee” is the one who receives the use and possession of the property and usually pays rent or gives something of value to the lessor in exchange. (By comparison, this blog has addressed “free leases,” which appear to be unique to the equine industry.) Common Equine Lease Problems Well-written contracts can help avoid or minimize problems with equine leases. Some equine lease problems are discussed below. Problem: No Written Lease Contract Lawsuits have focused on the sole question of whether an undocumented transaction was really an equine sale, gift, or lease. Several years ago, for example, someone leased a horse to a friend, with nothing in writing, but was forced to file suit later to recover the horse because the lessee insisted the horse was a gift and refused to return it. Well-written contracts can help avoid these disputes if they clearly specify (at a minimum) that the arrangement is a lease, who owns the horse, and when the lessee must return the horse.

Problem: Nobody Knows How Long the Lease Lasts Problems can occur when the lease fails to specify its duration. Lessors sometimes want to call off the lease and take back the horse, while the lessee expects continued use, such as through the remainder of a show season. These types of legal disputes can be complicated and costly, but they can be prevented if the lease agreement specifies, among other things, how long the lease lasts, when it can be terminated, how it can be terminated, and whether (and how) either party can end it sooner or to extend it for a longer period. Problem: The Lessor Disapproves of the Lessee’s Use of the Horse Sometimes, lessors want to limit what a lessee can do with the leased horse. The lease agreement can specify restrictions. For example, some lessors restrict the allowable height for jumping activities, whether showing or schooling, and some lessors forbid jumping. The lease can control where the horse must be stabled, and it can specify trainers who are permitted to ride, drive, handle, or work with the horse. Problem: Someone is Hurt While the Lease was in Effect Every horse owner dreads the thought of his or her horse hurting someone by, for example, kicking, biting, or throwing a rider or handler. These risks and potential liabilities never disappear merely because the owner has leased out his horse. The lessor is always at risk of being sued in a personal injury lawsuit. The parties to an equine lease can plan ahead for these possibilities. For example, the lease agreement can include a release of liability (where allowed by law) that is designed to protect the lessor (and those affiliated with the lessor) against claims from the lessee, where allowed by law. Keep in mind that states differ in their requirements for releases, and a small number of states do not enforce them. A knowledgeable lawyer can draft or review your release provisions. In addition, because people who sign releases can and sometimes do file lawsuits, lessors can purchase a policy of liability insurance such as personal horse owner’s liability insurance. In a further attempt to protect themselves from liability, lessors can also consider requiring lessees to sign indemnification agreements. An indemnification clause can provide that if any claims or liabilities are brought against the lessor due to acts or omissions of the lessee (or of others affiliated with the lessee); the lessee will hold the lessor harmless and will pay the lessor’s legal fees and any liabilities or judgments. For lessors, indemnification clauses like this may seem desirable, but they can be especially complicated; consult with legal counsel before entering into these arrangements. Problem: The Leased Horse is Injured or Dies While the Lease is in Effect

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What if the leased horse becomes seriously ill or lame while the lease is in effect? What if the animal requires expensive surgery, such as colic surgery? Illnesses and injuries are a foreseeable part of horse ownership, and problems can occur if the lessee fails or refuses to arrange for proper veterinary care or pay for veterinary expenses. Careful advance planning and attention to contract language can help avoid these problems. For example: The contract can require procurement of equine mortality insurance and possibly other insurance on the leased horse (such as major medical or loss of use insurance), and the contract can address how, or if any proceeds will be shared between the lessor and the lessee. The contract can require the lessee to pay veterinary expenses related to the horse. It can also specify how long those payment obligations continue if an injury or illness occurs during the lease term. Some lease contracts limit the lessee’s obligations to pay veterinary and farrier fees only if he or she (or others affiliated with the lessee) were negligent in causing the injury or illness during the lease term. Conclusion Careful planning and written contracts can help avoid many kinds of disputes involving equine leases. The legal expense to draft or negotiate a lease could save significantly more expense from a lawsuit.

Julie Fershtman is one of the nation’s most experienced Equine Law practitioners. A Shareholder with the firm Foster Swift Collins & Smith, PC, based in Michigan, she has successfully tried equine cases before juries in 4 states.  She has also drafted hundreds of equine industry contracts. She is a Fellow and officer of the American College of Equine Attorneys.  Her speaking engagements on Equine Law span 28 states, and she is the author of three books on equine law issues. For more information, please visit www.,,  and

This article does not constitute legal advice. When questions arise based on specific situations, direct them to a knowledgeable attorney.

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4H State Show

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Front End Contro A Fundamentals Level Exercise to Gain Control of Your Horse’s Forequarters on the Ground Control of your horse’s forequarters equals control of his direction of movement. Think of your horse’s head and neck like his steering wheel. The better control you can get of his steering wheel, the more responsive he’ll be and the more respect he’ll have for you. Why? Because when your horse realizes you can determine where he puts his feet (just as the boss mare in a herd determines where the other horses put their feet), he’ll see you as a competent and in control leader. Horses that are pushy and disrespectful use their head, neck and shoulders to push you around and move you out of their way. Once you can control his forequarters, your horse will have an entirely different perspective of you. Goal: The horse should pivot on his hindquarters and move his front end away from you 360 degrees. Teaching Stage: 1) Loop the lead rope around the horse’s neck two or three times so that it isn’t dragging on the ground. 2) Position yourself so that your belly button is in line with the horse’s eye. In this exercise, a lot of horses have a habit of walking forward instead of stepping across with their front feet. The further forward you stand, the more you’ll discourage him from wanting to walk forward out into a circle. If you’re too far back near the horse’s shoulder, you’ll actually make it easy for him to walk forward.

3) With the hand that is the closest to the horse’s nose, hold the lead rope about a foot from the snap. If there’s too much slack in the lead rope, you won’t be able to correct the horse when he walks forward. But if you hold it too short (with your hand directly below the snap), there won’t be enough slack in the rope for the horse to move away from you, and you’ll be constantly pulling his head toward you. 4) Hold the Handy Stick horizontally (in both of your hands) level with the horse’s eye. There are a couple of different ways that you can position the stick in this exercise, but I find that when people are first learning, this position works the best for them. Holding the Handy Stick horizontally allows you to tap the horse’s jaw and neck easily. The other method is to hold the Handy Stick vertically in one hand, and then tap the air up by the horse’s face to encourage him to cross over. However, I find that most people don’t have enough coordination with the stick initially to hold it and use it effectively with one hand. 5) Lightly tap the air with rhythm—one, two, three, four; then start tapping the horse—one, two, three, four—until the horse takes one correct step. If you’re standing on the horse’s left side, his left front leg should cross in front of his right front leg. If the horse doesn’t respond when you lightly tap the air, gradually increase the pressure by tapping his jaw and neck with rhythm. Basically, you’re going to keep increasing the pressure until you make the horse feel uncomfortable. At that point, you’re going to maintain the pressure and wait for the horse’s inside front foot to take one step across his outside front foot. Anytime the horse walks forward, back him up aggressively a few steps, then ask him to

yield his front end again. 6) As soon as the horse takes one correct step, stop tapping and rub him to a stop with the Handy Stick and your hands. Rubbing the horse lets him know that your body language has changed from active, which means move, to passive, which means stand still and relax. It also teaches the horse not to be fearful of the stick or your hands. The horse has to learn how to tell the difference between active and passive body language. 7) Once the horse can consistently take one step away from you, then look for two steps. When he

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consistently takes two correct steps, then look for three. As the horse gets more confident, you can slowly start to add more steps until he can eventually yield 360 degrees away from you. But if you ask for too many steps in the beginning, you’ll confuse the horse. The secret to great horsemanship is establishing a good starting point. If you can find a place to start, you can teach your horse to do just about anything. 8) Be sure to practice the exercise on the other side of the horse’s body.

Success Tip: Don’t Give Up. Once you know how to do the exercise, it’s relatively easy to teach a horse, but in the beginning, it can seem frustrating because most horses don’t try to help you. They’ve gotten into the habit of using their head, neck and shoulders to push you around. Just remember to be patient with the horse and with yourself. Don’t feel pressured to teach your horse to yield his forequarters 360 degrees in a day, give yourself at least a week and build on each step.

Author note: Clinton Anderson is a clinician, horse trainer and competitor. He’s dedicated his life to helping others realize their horsemanship dreams and keeping them inspired to achieve their goals. The Downunder Horsemanship Method gives horse owners the knowledge needed to become skilled horsemen and train their horses to be consistent and willing partners. Discover for yourself how Clinton and the Method can help you achieve your horsemanship dreams at www.

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Dowers Completes Road to the Horse Lineup Expect the unexpected; that’s the Road to the Horse motto fans have grown to love. It’s what drives them to buy tickets before the first competitor is even announced. Each year their wildest imagination about what to expect is blown away by the unimaginable. 2018 will not disappoint. Never has there been competitors spanning four different countries. Never has every competitor held one previous World Championship of Colt Starting title and never has anyone dared to pit a liberty trainer, reining trainer, reined cow horse trainer and an international show jumper against each other but Road to the Horse mastermind Tootie Bland, didn’t think twice. Dowers joins the star-studded line-up which includes defending World Champion and New Zealand show jumper Vicki Wilson, gifted Australian horseman Dan James, and Canadian reining horse sensation, Jim Anderson. As Road to the Horse 2016 World Champion Nick Dowers completes the lineup, fans wait patiently, counting the days to the most anticipated Road to the Horse event yet. Like admirers standing on the Mezzanine waiting for the magic to unfold, in the quiet before the storm. While many things set Nick Dowers apart from his peers, his unique training philosophy clearly tops the list. Humble beginnings in Nevada’s Fish Lake Valley taught the 33-year- old cowboy that hard work, patience and perseverance were the tools for success. Dowers began riding at a young age, using horses on his family’s Triple D Ranches in the Great Basin. This background instilled in him a sincere appreciation for the horse as his partner, as well as a belief that work outside of the arena is crucial. After studying under well-respected horsemen and women, Dowers pulled the best from each to develop his own training theories. Equipped with the knowledge he gleaned from mentors like Bryan Neubert, Joe Wolter, Andrea Fappani and Annie Reynolds, Dowers set out to establish a program with a balance of natural horsemanship and performance horse training techniques. His end goal is to build a partnership with each horse that results in a balanced and confident athlete. Winning is not everything – the more important measurement of success is the journey Dowers takes to unlocking each horse’s maximum potential. Dowers took the cow horse world by storm in October 2013 when he piloted TIME FOR THE DIAMOND to the National Reined Cow Horse Association Snaffle Bit Futurity Open World Championship, but the paycheck that accompanied the win was far from the most valuable result of that success. With the performance horse industry’s attention, Dowers could prove to his fellow horsemen that taking one’s time and getting into a horse’s mind could still yield a champion in the show pen. In 2016, Dowers captured his first ever Road to the Horse World Championship of Colt Starting, riding the 6666 Ranch gelding SEVEN ATTRACTION, a reined cow horse trainer who was unknown to most Road to the Horse fans, became a household name. Learn more about Nick Dowers at Road to the Horse 2018 tickets are available online at or by calling 877-772-5425. Follow Road to the Horse on Facebook for the latest information. For sponsorship opportunities at Road to the Horse 2018, contact Tammy Sronce at 940-859-6512 or email

Whoa! The most important cue for any horse being ridden is the cue for “whoa”. A good foundation should have been laid during halter breaking, leading lessons and learning how to lunge. (To read part one, please visit: html) The first step in reinforcing the “whoa” is no movement by the horse while the rider is getting on. And once mounted the horse should not move until given a cue. The rider must make a conscientious effort to sit on the motionless horse for a few seconds. Teaching a horse to stop under saddle requires six actions in sequence: 1. Establish the timing for the stop. 2. Give the verbal command to “whoa.” 3. Set the bit as a barrier to forward movement. 4. Tighten the stomach muscles. 5. Squeeze with both legs. 6. Release the bit barrier immediately after the horse has come to a complete stop. (1.) Timing sets the horse up for a square stop with the hind legs up under the body. It also requires the rider to learn the footfall sequence of the horse. The rider should begin the cues to stop just as the leading forefoot hits the ground. If the horse is walking or trotting, begin the cues as the forefoot corresponding to the direction of travel hits the ground. If you are moving to the left, begin the cues as the left forefoot strikes the ground. (2.) In concert with the timing, the rider gives the verbal command to “whoa.” The command should be given in a quiet to normal voice. Don’t yell at the young horse. Give the command just as you would if you were leading or lungeing the horse. (3.) A snaffle bit should be used when teaching the stop. The rider may lift either the left or right hand to set the bit as a barrier to forward movement. Most trainers lift the hand corresponding to the direction of travel--the left hand if the horse is traveling to the left. For example, lift your left hand (by simply rolling the thumb toward the left so the palm of your hand is facing up), your right hand remains steady, holding the right side of the bit in position. By lifting the hand, you are applying pressure to the left side of the horse’s mouth, at the same time elevating the head slightly, but not tipping it to the left. The horse’s head should not turn to the left or right. The slight elevating of the head encourages the horse to be light on the

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forehead and start shifting his weight to the hindquarters. (4.) While giving the verbal and bit cue, the rider tightens his or her stomach muscles. If the stomach muscles are tight, the rider cannot lean forward or backward. It is extremely important the rider does not lean his upper body backward. The upper body should remain erect so the horse is not thrown out of balance. When the rider tightens the stomach muscles, the pelvic bones drop backward and downward putting the rider’s seat deep in the saddle. This weight shift should immediately cause the horse to tighten his loin muscles. This rounds the horse’s back and allows the hindquarters to move under the body. It is this action which creates the square balanced stop. (5.) The rider squeezes the horse with

both legs, applying light equal pressure to encourage the horse to drive into the bit barrier. The horse should round his back upward when coming to a stop. If you don’t apply leg pressure, the horse will stop driving with the hindquarters and his back will sag. (6.) As soon as the horse begins to respond to the verbal and physical cues, the bit barrier must be released. Releasing the bit barrier rewards the horse for his response. The reins should not be pitched away, but should be loose enough to remove the possibility of bit pressure. If the bit barrier is held too long after the stop, the horse will be subject to severe mouth pressure and will start looking for a way to avoid the discomfort. Most of the time, a horse attempts to avoid the bit barrier by throwing his head up, down, or to one side or the other. Such behavior by the horse means the rider should immediately reassess his stopping cues and teaching techniques. It

won’t be long before the horse is attempting to avoid the stopping cues rather than responding to them. A good exercise to reinforce the stop is occasionally asking for a few back steps after stopping. The horse will start thinking “back” which will cause the back feet to come up under the body, putting him in perfect position for a balanced stop. When it comes to “whoa”, be consistent, be firm… and be safe. * Take the online course “Training Performance Horses”. Earn certification or work toward a Bachelor of Science degree in Equine Studies. Go to www. for more information. 

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Awesome New Service!

Make A Difference and Get an Awesome Shirt! Horse Rescue Shirt Club was formed in 2015 by Lisa Fisher after coming to the realization that many of her friends and family members had no idea of the scope of Horse Slaughter in America. She began looking for a unique way to Raise Awareness of the issue as well as bring recognition to the many Rescues who were working hard to give these Horses the life they deserve. She came up with the idea of a club that highlights a Sponsored Rescue each month. The

idea was that this would be a great way to support Rescues and raise awareness of the issues facing abandoned, abused or unwanted horses by having members wear shirts from different organizations around the country. HRSC has received many comments from members about how excited they were when people ask questions about their shirts. Each month members receive a unique t-shirt from a different Horse Rescue

along with a Collectable Postcard sharing the story of the work the Rescue is doing to help horses within their community. The postcard gives an overview of the facility including their website and where to get more information if our members are interested in volunteering or donating. Horse Rescue Shirt Club also makes a donation to the Sponsored Rescue to assist them with their mission.

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September 2017 Horses Magazine  

September 2017 Horses Magazine