back-to-school issue with Tinsley Mortimer our
Letter from Jane Keltner de Valle Fashion News Director of Teen Vogue
Dear Hoot reader, Full disclosure: When I was asked to write this letter, although very flattered, I was a little stumped. I didn’t have the “typical” college experience. Never been to a frat party or a football game. My extracurricular of choice was WWD (fashion industry bible) not DDD (popular Greek house of worship). Part of the reason I chose to attend Barnard is because I’m a strong believer that education extends far beyond just the campus gates. As a native New Yorker, I grew up with the Metropolitan Museum in my backyard. I never learned how to drive because I never wanted to have to forfeit all the merits of a pedestrian culture (street-as-runway being a central one). After touring various schools across America, I came to the conclusion that going to a first-rate college in a second-rate city seemed counterproductive. Within Columbia’s gates on 116th Street is a historic academic enclave that appears totally cutoff from the city around it. You can barely even see the high-rises that lie just beyond. But as soon as you exit onto Broadway, all of New York City is at your feet. I attended my first fashion show spring semester of freshman year. A friend at Parsons had a ticket to Daryl K, and she was too sick to attend so she passed it along to me. (Brief fashion history lesson: in the late ‘90s, Daryl K was pretty much what Alexander Wang is today—the coolest young designer in New York.) The fashion show was held in a huge industrial warehouse on the West Side Highway with rough wood planks for a runway. I can’t remember if my friend’s ticket was seated or standing, but it didn’t matter. As soon as I walked in, I positioned myself right next to the photographers’ pit, and proceeded to photograph each and every look that came down the runway. I still have a photo album with all the images (this was back in the old days when pictures were taken with film, and developed not downloaded). I started interning at W and Women’s Wear Daily at the end of my freshman year. The subway commute from Columbia to the offices on 34th Street was only twenty minutes, but when I exited I was in a totally different universe. Whenever I wasn’t in class, I was there. Other interns would arrive in June and leave in August, but because I was there yearround I became a part of the staff. Sophomore year, I remember receiving a call in my apartment on 110th Street asking if I had a passport. They needed someone to deliver a dress to a photo shoot in Poland that night. I wrote my first byline article about a year and a half into the internship. Meanwhile, at Barnard and Columbia, I sought out fashion- and journalism-specific classes to balance out my Victorian literature and art history classes. I took an incredible class on the history of fashion with Valerie Steele, the director of the museum at FIT. And I remember writing a comical piece about a Fendi sample sale for one of my journalism classes. My college experience wasn’t typical, but I wouldn’t trade it for anything in the world. I also don’t think I could have gotten it anywhere but Columbia University. I’ve been the fashion news director at Teen Vogue for a little over six years now, and it’s no coincidence that two of my best interns were Barnard students. One is now the online editor of Teen Vogue, and the other graduates this May. I have no idea what she’ll do next, but I would be lying if I said I wasn’t keeping my eyes on her!
Jane Keltner de Valle
Fashion News Director of Teen Vogue
In This Issue 5
Letter from the Editor
FEATURES 6 7 10 12 14 15 16 18 20
Contributor Biographies Back-to-School Shopping: Maya de la Rosa-Cohen Faculty Profile: Professor Caroline Weber 5 Seniors to Know on Campus Interview with Sam Horine Neighborhood Profile: SoHo Fashion Week Backstage: Vivienne Tam Blogger Profile: Wendy Brandes Cover Story: Tinsley Mortimer
Dress by Cynthia Steffe, shoes by Brian Atwood, ring by Mary Esses
HEALTH & BEAUTY 32 33 34
BPA on Campus Fall Beauty Products to Try Halloween Make-Up
FASHION 24 26 30 40 42
Utilitarian Fall Accessories Autumn’s Muted Tones Global Fashion Anywhere But Here Fall Trends for Less
ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT 38 41
Building Fashion Exhibition MoMA’s Ongoing Action! Design Over Time Exhibition HOOT www.hootmag.org
Meet the Staff Editor in Chief: Noel Duan (CC ’13)
Design Director: Sharon Wu (CC ’13) Design Editors: Ginny Bao (CC ’13) Cathi Choi (CC ’13) Nicole Chiang (BC ’14) Rashmi Borah (BC ’14) Hannah Keiler (CC ’14) Zi Lin (BC ’13) Design Assistants: Fran Bullard (BC ’14) Yishu Huang (CC ’11) Katie Lee (BC ’14) Victoria Musselman (BC ’14) Allie Yee (BC ’11)
Style Director: Michele Levbarg-Klein (CC ‘12) Accessories Director: Anna Cooperberg (CC ‘12) Creative Director: Vivian Luo (CC ‘12) Menswear Director: Martin Hamery (CC ‘13) Assistant Market Editor: Alexandra Gaspard (CC ’14) Associate Stylist: Lydia Ding (CC ’13) Fashion Writer: Gayoung Kim (CC ‘14) Menswear Writer: Jeanne Ma (SEAS ‘14) Menswear Writer: Augusto Corvalan (CC ‘13)
BEAUTY + HEALTH
Beauty + Health Director: Jina Lim (CC ‘13) Beauty Editor: Sharon Shum (CC ’13) Beauty Visuals Associate: Edson Bobadilla (CC ‘13) Beauty Associate: Emma Stein (CC ‘14)
Features Director: Carla Vass (BC ‘11) Features Editor: Constance Boozer (CC ’13) Interviews Assistant: Jennifer Ong (CC ’12) Features Writer: Paul Hsiao (CC ’12) Features Writer: Allison Malecha (CC ’13) Copy Editor: Katie Lee (BC ’14) Copy Editor: Alexandra Lotero (CC ’12) Copy Editor: Hannah C. Tippett (BC ’14)
ARTS + ENTERTAINMENT
Arts + Entertainment Director: Nicole Estevez (CC ‘13)
Photo Director: Damian Tran (GS ‘14)
Public Relations Director: Donia Abdelaziz (CC ‘12) Public Relations Assistants: Allie Davitt (CC ’12) Rakhi Agrawal (BC ‘14) Nina Ahuja (BC ‘14) Shelby Maniccia (BC ‘14) Kavisha Khanuja (BC ‘14) Kathy Sun (CC ‘14 Kinnari Norojono (CC ’14) Alexandra Shapiro (BC ’14) Ayelet Pearl (BC ’14)
ADVERTISING + SALES
Publisher: Kavitha Surana (CC ‘11) Associate Publisher: Tina Tsuchiyama (BC ’13)
from the Editor
ome people look upon Hoot as a novelty. Something superfluous for Columbia students to “waste” time on. Something frivolous for an Ivy League school. “Do you feel bad that you go to Columbia and you’re not trying to save the world?” someone recently asked me. Additionally, on the blog, IvyGate (ivygateblog.com), Daniel D’Addario (CC ’10) wrote, “We support student enterprise broadly, but, um… why do we need another fashion magazine, least of all one produced by students as poor as we are?” D’Addario didn’t exactly make clear whom he was asking (presumably the readers of IvyGate), but I would like to try my hand at answering his question. Columbia is not a fashion-oriented school. We do not pretend to compete with Parsons or FIT or Pratt or any of our other notably stylish brethren in New York. Yet, we have a small but passionate group of students, faculty members, and alumni who are contributing great things to the fashion industry. We spoke with Professor Caroline Weber of Barnard College, who not only teaches French, but also writes for Vogue and authors extensively researched books about costume history. Our very own accessories director, Anna Cooperberg (CC ’12), can be found in the pages of Seventeen, where she serves as a member of the Style Council. Jane Keltner de Valle, Teen Vogue fashion news director, shares her memories as a fashion-savvy Barnard student on the first page of this issue. And of course, our cover star, Tinsley Mortimer (CC ’99), is not only a socialite, but also a handbag designer. These four individuals are just a small fraction of Columbia’s fashion community—which in itself is a small fraction of Columbia’s community—but they are changing and contributing to a multibillion-dollar industry. And then there are the new staff members of Hoot this year. The first-years who wanted to get involved even before they arrived on campus. The sophomores, juniors, and seniors who have started to contribute to Hoot even though it is a fairly new publication. The staff members from last year, who decided to take a chance on a student fashion magazine in spite of the words of skeptics like D’Addario. Hoot brought us all together. We just want to celebrate fashion at Columbia University and in Morningside Heights, simple as that. Hoot is necessary because of the void we fulfill. Just as I’m writing this letter, a couple students from Yale University emailed me about starting a fashion magazine at their school, modeled after Hoot. Turns out, we’re not the only Ivy League school with a love for fashion. Of course, Hoot could not have been made possible without your contributions. We would especially like to thank Kirby Bullard, Nicole Chiang, Jeff Chou, Charles Cooperberg, Maricela Cooperberg, Jinfan Duan, Antonia Gonzalez, Sergio Gonzalez, Justin Iso, Bianca Jolly, John Kim, Martin I. Klein, Livia Lee, Ron Lee, Katie Lee, Yun Lim, Dale Mercer, Huoy Ung, Jamie Wong, and Jinying Zhang for their generous donations to our Kickstarter (kickstarter.com) campaign. Also, we offer our deepest appreciation to CUarts once again for the support and contributions.
Getting a few precious moments with fashion designer Vivienne Tam while backstage at her show in Lincoln Center!
With much gratitude,
Noel Duan Editor in Chief
Hometown: Libertyville, IL/Toronto, ON
1. My go-to Little Black Dress. Cliché, yes, but for the sake of practicality, it looks good with just about anything and is super comfy since it’s made from organic bamboo fibers. 2. A closet full of Manolos. Sorry Karl, I’m with Carrie Bradshaw. 3. An oversized fur vest (I’m going for faux) to keep me warm and, to carry on the super-wedge trend from summer, a pair of platform-wedge ankle booties (think Jeffrey Campbell and Topshop).
Editor in Chief
Hometown: San Jose, CA
1. My BCBG Mendel Booties – I bought them during finals week while procrastinating! I called 15 stores around Manhattan and throughout the country before finally finding them! 2. Spend an afternoon with Kaiser Karl and wear Nicholas Kirkwoods instead. 3. A black maxi skirt. I have too many mini skirts.
Hometown: Sunnyvale, CA
1. My wedges! They go with anything and just add that extra touch of edgy-cool and chic all at once. Plus, they’re ridiculously comfortable. 2. Spend an afternoon with Lagerfeld - Chanel is potentially one of the greatest couture fashion houses remaining. It just oozes glamour. 3. Capes are everywhere this season. They’re incredibly warm, comfortable, and you can wear them with anything. I’m looking for a hooded one.
Publisher Hometown: Dallas, TX
1. I hate being cold so I would save my Zara coat with a humongous hood. I can completely cover my face with it in the winter if I want, and it’s 80% wool. Otherwise, I might save my Banana Republic red strapless dress because it’s timelessly classy yet has a standout color, and flatters all the right curves! 2. I’d rather have a closet of Manolos for sure. 3. A colorful scarf to keep me warm and keep some color near my face. Fall colors can be so drab!
1. If you could only save one thing from your closet, what would it be? you rather have a closet full of Manolos or spend an afternoon 2. Would with Karl Lagerfeld? 3. What’s your fall must have?
Back-to-School Shopping: Maya de la Rosa-Cohen vintage haunts for fashion dilettantes
ack-to-school shopping isn’t just about buying overpriced books at the Columbia University bookstore. Maya de la Rosa-Cohen (CC ’11), a native of San Francisco and street photographer for Swagger New York (swaggernewyork.com), took Hoot on a tour of her favorite vintage-inspired haunts around Houston Street. 4:15 p.m. Rosa-Cohen’s first stop is Zachary’s Smile (317 Lafayette St.), a boutique filled with re-worked dresses and authentic vintage goodies. “I mainly come here for accessories,” she said, pointing toward a selection of cute belts and a rack of hats. “Pill box hats could be very in this fall,” she said, grinning as she tried on a green version. 5:00 p.m. Outside, the traffic crushed us on Broadway. When asked about her favorite shop on Broadway in SoHo, she quickly replied, “Topshop (478 Broadway) for sure, I became obsessed with them while studying abroad in Spain.” She stopped by Uniqlo (546 Broadway) and Madewell (486 Broadway). The cashmere sweaters are “pretty hard to say no to” at Uniqlo, though she thinks Madewell is overpriced. “I just get frustrated when I see a flimsy tshirt and a nice dress that both cost $50. It doesn’t make sense!” she ranted. 5:10 p.m. Flying A (169 Spring St.) is another vintage-inspired store Rosa-Cohen frequently visits, although she doesn’t normally buy anything other than sunglasses and shoes from there. “It’s expensive,” she said, “but I come because you never know what deals you’ll find, and the selection is great.” She tried on an exquisite pair of boots from Brazil and searched for a brown leather backpack, another one of her backto-school necessities. 5:15 p.m. The boots were a bit too tight to warrant spending $180 on them. Is it safe to assume that she is a practical shopper?
by kavitha surana
She shrugged her shoulders and smiled nonchalantly, “Sometimes, and sometimes not. The second time I went to the Barneys Warehouse Sale I’d been working all summer to save money to go to Europe. Then, I found these gold Balenciaga shoes with five-inch marble art deco heels—completely impractical but they go with everything! I hid them within the sale racks and told myself that if they were still there by the end of the sale I’d have to buy them. Six days later, there they were!” She splurged—but still ended up getting to Europe. 5:30 p.m. She pointed out the restaurants, SoHo Park (62 Prince St.) and Hampton Chutney (68. Prince St.), as we passed by (“great french fries and dosas, respectively”) and lead us into Amarcord Vintage (252 Lafayette St.) “just to browse.” She checked the price tag of a vintage Italian purse. “1,200 dollars,” she squeaked, horrified. There is definitely a gorgeous array of designerbrand vintage items here. Rosa-Cohen suggests going there just to get inspired. Before leaving, she eyed a pair of red suede boots and tried on an outlandish feathered hat. 5:50 p.m. Across the street, Rosa-Cohen decided to try a new store. In God We Trust (265 Lafayette St.) enchanted her with its heart charms and silk flowered shorts. When asked what this season’s must-haves are, the Swagger New York intern replied, “I’ve heard crushed purple velvet and clogs. I can see the velvet being potentially fierce, but no way am I putting on clogs!” She ended up purchasing a funky pair of $15 coral sunglasses that will pump up her favorite faux-leather grey jacket from Spain. 6:20 p.m. We headed to one of her top picks, Café Habana (17 Prince St.) where the Cuban coffee hits the spot and the $2 corn on the cob is a perfect treat. As she dug into a fish taco, she joked, “I hope it doesn’t get crowded down here, now that everyone’s going to know my secrets!”
Rosa-Cohen shopping in SoHo.
Rosa-Cohen trying on a vintage-inspired combination at Zachary’s Smile.
Getting giddy trying on a part of beautiful Brazilian leather vintage boots at Flying A.
Rosa-Cohen is an expert at using unique belts to spice up her wardrobe.
Shopping in the Digital Age guide to discount fashion in the cybersphere by tina tsuchiyama
he recent economic downturn has been detrimental for many luThe recent economic meltdown has proved to be detrimental to many luxury retailers. As consumers continue to tighten their wallets, clothes go unsold in stores and designers are faced with a dilemma. The silver lining for cash-strapped college students? In order to get rid of luxury surplus fashion pieces, designers are turning to discount sites. These sites not only serve the needs of bargain-hunting consumers, but also manage to stay true to the prestige embedded in the tradition of luxury brands. Why should a student use these
sites? First of all, they are affordable. Although one might think the only available items on these sites are $2,000 Valentino gowns, this is (fortunately) a misconception. Many items are suitable for a studentâ€™s budget. Secondly, diehard designer fiends no longer have to wait in line for hours for just one sample sale. Instead, they can simply remain in their pajamas while they browse; in fact, there are more sales offered online than in most stores. Here is a list of websites for students in need of a new outfit without venturing downtownâ€”or just another way to procrastinate.
Rent the Runway
Rue La La
Motto: “We care about College Students. Don’t forget about our Runway Rep Campus Ambassador Program!”
Motto: “The discovery of something unexpected, something that imbues the dayto-day with a little magic—these are the “ooh la la moments” we long for. And you’ll find them here.”
Motto: “With its boundless enthusiasm for trends, ASOS.com is contagious.”
Rent the Runway is great way to achieve high-end looks at only 10% of retail prices for that special night. For a very low price, students can borrow designer pieces—as long as they are returned promptly. Shoppers first select an item, then sit back and wait while it’s sent to them. With categories ranging from “Date Night” to “Sorority Events,” there is never a dearth of student-friendly options here. The company recently hosted a philanthropic fashion show on campus with sorority Delta Gamma. Exclusive for Hoot readers: Join Rent the Runway at renttherunway.com/Columbia and get $10 off orders of $50 or more with promo code HOOT10. Valid until 11/30/10.
Offering a wide array of products, Rue La La carries everything from Michael Kors to Tumi suitcases. The prices are the best part, as most items are cheaper than those found at Gilt Groupe. Always thinking of college students, they even offer a “Dorm Sale” during the summer. Most of their sales start at eleven in the morning, so students need to work around their class schedules to get the best deals.
The British response to the specialty website craze, ASOS offers over 35,000 products that ship over the pond and straight to Lerner mailboxes. The site also features clothing lines created by exclusive collaborations with European designers. A great way to add some international flair at discounted prices!
Five Faves We at Hoot picked our top five e-stores with great clothes and accessories, and got our readers exclusive deals!
Motto: “Fashion should be fun, so don’t stress when shopping and enjoy the pieces in your closet! Don’t let them sit there and collect dust waiting for a perfect occasion, use them!”
Motto: “Introducing Apart: Not just a clothing brand, but a style-conscious state-ofmind.”
Launched on Nov. 13, 2007, Gilt Groupe’s claim to fame is being the first flash sale to launch operations. The company holds over 70 sales a week. It also shares a partnership with the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), along with direct partnerships with over 650 designers. Accordingly, shoppers know that authenticity is guaranteed for every product. Gilt Groupe is noted to sell the crème de la crème, so some of the pieces may be pricey even after heavy discounts. However, the site also has featured sales such as “Gilt-Free Shopping” and even “Back to School Sales,” so it’s worth checking out every week— devoted procrastinators students may just score that coveted Missoni dress for a steal.
Although relatively new to the United States, this German brand has been on the radar in Europe since 1975. From light cashmere-blend sweaters to flirty dresses, Apart can take students from the classroom to downtown in one outfit change. Even though this is not a flash fashion site, all the pieces are definitely affordable for students. Exclusive for Hoot readers: Get 30% off with promo code HOOTMag. Valid until 11/30/10.
Exclusive for Hoot readers: Join Gilt Groupe at gilt.com/hootmag. HOOT www.hootmag.org
Fashiondemia caroline weber integrates la mode and serious historical pursuits
by allison malecha
ssociate French Professor and author of the celebrated “Queen of Fashion: What Marie Antoinette Wore to the French Revolution,” Caroline Weber, is leading the world of academia to reconsider the significance of fashion. Between dashing to class and whipping up fashion features for Vogue, W, and T: The New York Times Style Magazine, Professor Weber sat down with Hoot for a little chat about history and haute couture. Hoot: Your specialty is 18th century French culture, specifically the French Revolution. How did this transcend into an interest in fashion? Weber: The French Revolution was a period when the smallest, most seemingly incidental details of dress were invested with tremendous political significance. The choice between breeches—coded “aristocratic”—and trousers—coded “republican”; the type of jewelry a woman wore—the most avid revolutionary women wore pieces of the Bastille as lockets, brooches and pendants— quite literally functioned to broadcast a Frenchman’s or Frenchwoman’s political loyalties and convictions. I realized that fashion could, like other
person, at a particular time and place. As such, it is an exceedingly rich area for scholarly research.
But as I’ve already told you, I don’t find it a shallow field of inquiry in the least—no more than fiction or poetry or painting or political rhetoric. Painting is actually a good analogy here. By definition, painting deals with surfaces, with the manipulation of form and texture and color to achieve a specific set of visual effects. Fashion works the same way: Like a Rembrandt or a Picasso or a Malevich, an academically interesting article of clothing or a particular sartorial aesthetic can tell us something about the values of the context in which it was created, and praised or blamed.
Hoot: What would you reply to someone who sees fashion as a purely superficial pursuit? Weber: Quite often people do ask me why a “real” academic like me would devote her time and attention to a “shallow” subject like fashion.
Hoot: How do you balance historical accuracy and popular appeal in your work [i.e. in “Queen of Fashion”]? Weber: The thing that audiences seemed to like best [about “Queen of Fashion”] was the fact that I had unearthed so many real, true stories about
forms of cultural expression from that period, tell us a lot about how people thought and what they believed. Hoot: What do you think fashion’s place is in academia? Weber: Like politics and like literature, fashion gives voice to the aspirations, anxieties, prejudices, ideological convictions of a particular people, or
Quite often people do ask me why a “real” academic like me would devote her time and attention to a “shallow” subject like fashion.
Faculty Profile w h a t Marie-Antoinette wore, and about how the French public responded to the queen’s fashion statements. As long as one writes in a lively, energetic, and lucid style, people will not, in my experience, be turned off by historical accuracy or precision. On the contrary, they appreciate it. The best details of Marie-Antoinette’s adventures in fashion, for example, are things that nobody would have dared to dream up: three-foot-high hairdos with toy farms and babbling brooks and windmills nestled in them. Hoot: You were working on a project on Coco Chanel’s involvement in World War II. What did you originally have in mind for this project? Weber: I had wanted to write a biography of Chanel that would have covered her life during the Occupation—and her subsequent exile from France—alone. These are chapters of her life about which next to nothing is known. Yet Chanel was, by World War II, one of France’s greatest celebrities and moguls and national icons, and the fact that she spent the war years with a lover who was a spy for the German military, holed up in the Hotel Ritz where many of the other top-ranking Nazis were living, seemed—and still seems—to me like a story worth telling.
the company was even [allowed] to talk to me. In retrospect, it makes clear sense: Why would a multibillion-dollar company want its name tarnished with unpleasant Nazi associations? Hoot: As an active research historian, is it hard to move on from a “failed” project? Weber: I had no problem moving on from “Coco at the Ritz,” as that project was tentatively called, once I realized that the relative dearth of historical evidence would make the book more like a novelized history than an actual history. Because I’m trying to pioneer a field—the academic study of fashion and costume history—which is still
new and is still too often dismissed as unserious, I need to work ten times harder to make sure that every claim I put down on paper is bulletproof. Hoot: Any ideas of what you’ll work on next? Weber: I’m in the very early stages of a new book project that also has to do with an iconic female figure in French history and culture, but it’s too soon yet for me to talk about it. Hoot will anxiously be awaiting more details—and brushing up on French in the meantime!
Hoot: What obstacles led you to ultmately have to cancel the project? Weber: I spent a good year and a half really trying to make the project work, but I eventually came up against two, unfortunately insurmountable obstacles. The first is the dearth of material. Chanel supposedly paid many of the people she’d known during that time not to write about her in their memoirs. By this time, it was of course deeply shameful to have been in bed—literally, in Chanel’s case— with the Nazis, so Chanel didn’t want her legend blackened with references to her German sympathies. The other obstacle is the House of Chanel itself. On the day [my Parisian Chanel connection and I] were supposed to go over to the company [in Paris], she met me and told me that she had just heard from Chanel PR that no one at HOOT www.hootmag.org
Underclassmen: listen up and take a cue from their examples! These members of the class of 2011 have proved their style cred over the past 3 years.
by kavitha surana, jennifer ong, paul hsiao
LAURE MICHELON SEAS CIVIL ENGINEERING Favorite place to shop in NYC: The Brooklyn flea markets. Can’t live without: My jean shorts collection—I own like 12 pairs. That or my holster purse from Australia. Fall must-have: Combat boots and a warm beanie. Style is influenced by: Surf culture and punk rock. I’m obsessed with Erin Wasson and Jessica Hart. Best place to study: The architecture lab at Barnard. Great creative energy. Best place to go out in Morningside Heights: Ding Dong Lounge because the DJs are rad and you can actually play pool unlike at 1020. It’s not crowded, and just grungy enough. Biggest accomplishment at Columbia: Getting to go abroad to Australia as an engineer—I argued a lot!
Features KAMSEN LAU CC ART HISTORY & ARCHEOLOGY Self-described style: Basic, simple and easy. When I buy a jacket I want it to count—I look for quality over quantity. Style is influenced by: Boarding school. There was a dress code of collared shirts in New England and I admit to sticking to the prep school tradition of colorful polos, brown slacks and flip-flops at all times (even in the winter). Will your style change as you get older? I always tell myself that I won’t change in personality or in style, but time and time again, I prove myself wrong. However, I do believe that a man’s style is more consistent than that of a woman’s; a nice suit will always be a nice suit no matter where you are in your career. Advice for freshmen: Study what you’re interested in and not what you think is practical. Experiment and take risks. Learn for the sake of learning because you only get one chance to do it. ARCHIE ARCHIBONG SEAS COMPUTER SCIENCE Self-described style: Incorporating simple colors like black and grey with great design. I like mixing and matching with LA, NYC, and Tokyo style. Can’t live without: My G-Star Raw 3301 classic-cut black raw denim—I’ve had them for years and they go with everything. What do you do in fashion? I have interned and worked fashion week with G-Star. I met lots of cool people and really learned about the ins and outs of the fashion industry. Best place to go out in Morningside Heights: Probably the little food cart that’s right outside of Duane Reade… that guy makes some damn good chicken and rice. Favorite memory of college: My first time DJing at the Pike house “Cave Rave” party. Crazy night. Advice for freshmen: Party hard, work harder.
BETH MALIN CC SOCIOLOGY Self-described style: Classic and sophisticated yet girly. I like to mix solid pieces with trendy and eccentric accessories, but I still listen to the little girl in me who can’t live without bows and ruffles! Fall must-have: My brown Frye boots and navy Nanette Lepore lightweight jacket. Can’t live without: My J Brand jeans—the cigarette leg slim fit style goes with everything. Also, I rarely go anywhere without my pearl earrings and necklace! Style is influenced by: The places I’ve traveled to. It’s always exciting to mix American trends with those from abroad. Biggest accomplishment on campus: Being selected as the recipient of the National Sigma Delta Tau Ruth Metzger Katz Outstanding Junior award and serving as President of the Columbia Women’s Business Society. Advice for freshmen: Find activities or communities on campus you are passionate about and don’t forget to go explore the city!
VERONICA KRANTZ BC PSYCHOLOGY Self-described style: Eclectic. I am willing to try anything and don’t keep up with trends. I was once told that I dress like a sexy babydoll, but sometimes I love nothing more than rocking one of my best guy friends’ t-shirts from the night before. Favorite place to shop: My mom’s closet, I love her old vintage haute couture. Can’t live without: My DVF full-length black, cream and red houndstooth swing coat that I wore to my Barnard interview. Dean Denberg loved it so much that I still give it credit for getting me in and giving me the best four years of my life. Craziest outfit: Any one of my Halloween costumes. I have also been known to rock a couple of exposed lacy bras—that always calls for attention. Advice for freshmen: At Columbia you can find the most intelligent, sophisticated and eccentric people, so put yourself out there and make new friends. But remember to be yourself at all times. Experience new things in Manhattan. Don’t spend too much money; it goes like water on food and cabs. HOOT www.hootmag.org 13
Interview with a Menswear Photographer through his lens and words: sam horine
rooklyn-based freelance photographer Sam Horine documented some of the best looks at Fashion Week for New York Magazine. Hoot caught up with Horine for his thoughts on photography and men’s fashion. Hoot: How did you get interested in photography? Horine: My grandfather was always taking photographs, and when I was in high school, a bunch of my friends had access to the school darkroom, so it’s probably rooted somewhere in those two factors. There was something amazing and magical about shooting, developing and printing film. After college, even though I was pretty broke most of the time, I still made it a priority to shoot the occasional pack of Polaroid. Then as higher-end digital slowly came down in price, I started shooting a lot of bands and shows. From there I transitioned into more commercial work and a job at NYU. Hoot: What are some of your biggest challenges as a photographer? Horine: It’s hard to make time to work on personal projects and to give yourself permission to be selfish from time to time. I enjoy working for all of my clients, but as a creative professional, I’ve learned that it’s critical to spend time on personal work where I can stretch myself and really focus on my art for its own sake. Where street style is concerned, I have to decide immediately if people have a singular look about them. Then I have another instant to convince them that they should let me take their photograph. Usually, people are flattered, but there are occasions when you’ve found the perfect look but the person doesn’t want to be photographed. Hoot: What menswear trends did you see at Fashion Week?
Horine: I saw a lot of boat shoes, a lot of rolled cuffs and more men trending towards a more tailored-looking fit. I also saw men experimenting with mixing patterns and textures, which adds richness to a look and is hard to do when the weather is still hot. Hoot: On the flip side, what was the craziest outfit you saw? Horine: I saw a guy with a hat made from spikes, a nose piecing in the shape of a mustache, a guy who dressed up everyday
in different colored 70s pimp suits. The list could go on and on. Hoot: What makes a man have good style? Horine: I think that the most important thing for men is fit, proportion, and paying attention to the details. A lot of men wear their clothes too big. Hoot: What accessory or clothing item works on every male? Horine: You can never go wrong with the classics—a great pair of jeans, good sunglasses, a good looking boot or shoe and a perfectly fitting suit will work for almost any occasion. Hoot: What do you see as a difference
by martin hamery
between menswear and womenswear? Horine: I think that women are a bit more adventurous in their willingness to experiment with color, pattern and fabric. Men tend to pick a look that works for them and stick with it. Hoot: Do the clothes make the man or vice versa? Horine: It’s a bit of both; confidence always looks good, as does a well-executed outfit. Just because someone is wearing a fancy label, I’m not more inclined to take his or her picture. My favorite looks are a mix of high and low pieces with personality, put together by someone who knows what looks right on them. Hoot: Do you have a fashion “rule”? Horine: Try aiming for real quality in your choices; the timeless pieces are hard to go wrong with and you’ll go back to them time and time again. My wife talks about clothing purchases in terms of cost per wear. Spend your money where it will have the most impact. Hoot: Do you have any advice for aspiring photographers? Horine: Know your camera like the back of your hand; you should be able to change the settings and lenses on the fly while communicating ideas and concepts to subjects. Have fun, keep trying new things, break old habits, network with as many people as you can. Keep moving forward and occasionally take on a low-budget project that you’re passionate about, as it’s good to be reminded of why you got into this business in the first place.
Neighborhood Profile: SoHo more affordable than you may think
by kavitha surana
ny Columbia student interested in fashion has surely heard of SoHo in some context. Known as the epicenter of developed Manhattan, SoHo rivals almost any other place in the city in terms of tourists per square foot, not to mention the price one would pay per square foot of apartment space. Though at first glance, SoHo appears to embody the Lego Land metropolis that New York has become, the area thankfully still possesses a few hidden treasures. Architecture and history are the keys to this neighborhood’s identity. Before the early ‘60s, the area was purely industrial, filled with sweatshops and factories. When manufacturing eventually moved to other parts of the city, the large loft spaces left behind were favored by artists who prized their cheap rents, natural lighting, and the majestic cast iron facades. Following a typical path of gentrification, SoHo became a destination spot for the rich. Eventually, the wide storefront windows became perfect showcases for high-end shops to display their wares. If one is in need of typical shops usually found in malls, such as H&M, Zara, Banana Republic, and Steve Madden, the best bet is to wander down Broadway, which is crammed with familiar stores. A great alternative to the usual fare in the same price range is Uniqlo (546 Broadway), a Japanesebased brand that specializes in flattering basic pieces like cashmere blend
sweaters and work-appropriate skirts. Another fun—though pricier—option on Broadway is Topshop (478 Broadway), a London-based chain store famous for sky-high heels and up-to-theminute fashion pieces. Tucked on the western side of Broadway, one can find all the designer goodies, such as Chanel, Nicole Miller, and Louis Vuitton, as well as high-end department stores like Barneys and Bloomingdales. Even merely windowshopping the design concepts on display can be a treat. One unique store that should not be missed is Kisan Concept Store (125 Greene St.). This boutique is owned by a French-Icelandic couple and sells a pleasing mish-mash of products from all around the world. At the front there is a great selection of unique notebooks, foreign films, and dorm-worthy knickknacks. For students who wish to explore their youthful side, Kid Robot (118 Prince St.) is the perfect place to pick up wacky t-shirts or surprise boxes filled with silly statuettes like “Smorkin Labbit,” a cheeky figurine of a rabbit smoking a cigarette. Those looking for jewelry will also have a field day in SoHo. Vendors with original designs always hawk their goods along the sidewalks, such as the market at the corner of Wooster and Spring streets. Though SoHo is most famous as a shopping district, it could be a destination spot for its culinary delights alone. The best part is that the neighborhood
is full of little places where students can sample a small treat that won’t break the bank. At first glance, the stuffed minicupcakes of the Baked by Melissa stand (529 Broadway) seem too tiny to be satisfying, but they are nice alternatives to stuffing one’s face with a giant Crumbs cupcake when in the mood for something sweet. Vosges Chocolates (132 Spring St.) or Mariebelle Fine Treats (484 Broome St.) are two chocolate shops that will also please a sweet tooth with their exotic selections, such as bacon and chocolate bars, and wattleseed ice cream at Vosges, or lemoncello truffles with fancy designs at Mariebelle. European-inspired cafes such as Boom or Le Petit Café on Spring Street can transport the hungry diner to another country for lunch—students shouldn’t be surprised if they hear a bit of French or Italian while enjoying their pasta! There aren’t too many bars in the area, but a restaurant like Sanctuary T (377B W. Broadway) will do the trick with tea-inspired cocktails, such as rose flower sangria. Alternatively, the bar Toad Hall (57 Grand St.) is a friendly neighborhood joint—perhaps the only neighborhood joint, in fact. Whether shopping for back-toschool necessities on Broadway, strolling past exquisitely decorated display windows to admire new designs, kicking back for luxury chocolate or a specialty cocktail, students can find surprisingly affordable venues in SoHo. HOOT www.hootmag.org
JULIA HAFSTROM opening the show
Fashion Week Backstage Pass behind the scenes at vivienne tam by damian tran
Counterclockwise: from left: KATYA KULYZKHA after make-up and on to hair; SHENA MOULTON with Maybelline make-up artist; SHENA MOULTON with Maybelline make-up artist; Adjacent page: RAMONA CHURMA fixing makeup
Above: ISA MELO writing in her journal after hair and makeup (Isa was writing in her journal already done with hair and makeup. She just was sitting on the ground next to the clothes she would be wearing on the runway in a couple of minutes. There was chaos everywhere, but peace was found where Isa wasâ€Ś) Right: ANNA and LAURA getting stick-on toe nail polish for the spring footwear; Adjacent page: BONNIE CHEN hair and make-up ready
Wendy Brandes don’t forget that hustle by constance boozer
eet Wendy Brandes (CC ’89) and her signature red lips. Divvying her time between being a jewelry designer, blogger (wendybrandes.com/blog), Chairman of the Board of Trustees for the Columbia Daily Spectator, wife to former Wall Street Journal editor Peter Seiger, and self-proclaimed luckiest person in the world, Brandes has taken New York by storm. Dreams can come true: Brandes grew up in Mahwah, New Jersey, always dreaming that she would one day move to New York and become a journalist. When Brandes transferred to Columbia in 1986 from Northwestern, her dreams finally started to materialize. A self-confessed shy student, Brandes nevertheless became heavily involved with the Spectator. “I never made a morning class. Technology has not changed anything—it’s the same for students today!” New Yorker for life: Brandes has not moved away from the city since coming to Columbia. She comments, “[I love] any person you see on the street. It is someone who I could see in my hometown, but has an extra edge to the look. I hate snooty New Yorkers. I like even unfashionable people—they are part of New York too.” Inspiration for the ages: Brandes’ inspiration is fascinating women, and notes that the qualifications that make a woman fascinating can vary. “They would have to have an interesting story; something that forces people to gawk and say ‘What?’ If she is crazy, weird or shocking, she is even more fascinating.” Secondly, a woman’s fashion sense can make her fascinating. “If a woman’s wardrobe forces me to rubberneck, then it is a sure deal.” Thirdly, a fascinating woman does not have to be virtuous. “Some of my favorite jewelry is named after Empress Wu.” Empress Wu, who ruled China in the Tang Dynasty, referred to her-
self as “emperor” during her reign. “I think that was very commanding for a woman to demand to be referred to in the same language as a man.” Jokingly, Brandes adds, “Empress Wu killed half her family. I think that was completely powerful; I mean, everyone was doing it at the time.” Although, Brandes was quick to note that she does not encourage such behavior today. Why jewelry? Brandes chooses to design jewelry because she enjoys the longevity in the product. “I love fashion, but it is too short-term for me.” Jewelry, instead, is an antiquity. As a true Columbia alumna, her desires mirror those of Homer’s characters: “I hope my jewelry will last at last 500 years— maybe throughout the span of history.” More practically, Brandes also credits the bad economy as to why she enjoys designing jewelry. “When someone splurges while shopping, you should buy something that lasts forever.”
I like even unfashionable peoplethey are a part of New York too.
Rings are her favorite pieces of jewelry to design. “What is the point of buying jewelry if you forget about it? Although you can feel earrings, you don’t get see them all day. Rings, on the other hand, are right and center.” Many of her rings are lockets that do not hold anything; jewelry does not have to be practical, after all—just fun. Her favorite new piece is a dragon ring
still in the mold right now. “The ring is very fierce, large and noticeable.” Laughing, Brandes recalls, “I had a conversation with my jeweler asking if my dragon looked realistic. I guess the people at Pixar have the same question about cars and dragons.” Any advice for Hoot readers? With a sly smile, Brandes says, “I’ll give you some advice from Miss Mazeppa from ‘Gypsy:’ ‘You’ll pardon me, but to have no talent is not enough. What you need is an idea that makes your strip special.’” Does Brandes mean that we should be strippers, particularly in this economy?
ever, this is not the case in the workplace. To succeed, not only do you need talent and substance, but you also need a gimmick and a lot of hustle.”
As she was telling her friend at a fashion show, “If you hold back, you are going to lose customers to those who are willing to make noise. In business, you have to demand things in order to make money.” Here’s to the hustle.
Hardly. “I admire Miss Mazeppa for being an elegant yet saucy woman. At Columbia, I thought talent and merit counted for everything. HowHOOT www.hootmag.org
MORTIMER the former columbia student opens up about fashion, reality tv, and how college shaped her by anna cooperberg
ne may know of Tinsley Mortimer (CC ’99) from her CW show High Society—or perhaps one has seen her photo in the society pages of W or The New York Times. Yes, Mortimer is a socialite, but she is more than the regular clotheshorse who flits from party to party. The former Columbia student and member of the literary society Saint Anthony Hall has done a lot since her college days. Mortimer grew up in Virginia but always wanted to end up in New York. “New York,” she says, “was just a dream. I love the city and the fashion, and of course I always wanted to go to a really good school. It was almost too good to be true that there was an amazing Ivy League school in the city.” After applying and getting accepted to Columbia, she ultimately decided to attend the University of North Carolina at her parents’ insistence. After a few days at the school, she called Columbia and asked if she
could still attend, but it couldn’t be done. Her paperwork had already been processed. She promptly decided to work with a non-profit for the remainder of her time, reapplied to Columbia as soon as she could, and was accepted for the second time. Like many current students, the infamous Core Curriculum helped her find a major; she did not know she wanted to study art history until she took Art Humanities—which, speaking like a true Columbian, she refers to as “Art Hum.” “I’m so grateful for the Core Curriculum because when you’re younger and you don’t really know what you want to do, being forced in a way to take these classes creates such an obviously well rounded education. I love that because we need a little kick in the butt when we’re younger.” In spite of her praise of the Core, she acknowledges that Columbia wasn’t all fun and games. In fact, the
From Southern Deb ...
utante to New York Socialite
Coat by Bensoni, ring by Kara Ross
*All items featured are Tinsley Mortimerâ€™s personal wardrobe and accessories
Producer: Michele Levbarg-Klein Photographer: Damian Tran Set Assistant: Alexandra Gaspard Stylist: PJ Pascual Hair: Casey Oâ€™Brien Makeup: Victor Henao
Jacket by Cynthia Steffe; dress by Nanette Lepore; shoes by Giuseppe Zanotti; bracelet by Kenneth Jay Lane.
I’m so grateful for the Core Curriculum ... when you’re younger you don’t really know what you want to do.
Vest jacket, stripe sweater, skirt all by Nanette Lepore. Shoes by Giuseppe Zanotti. Bangles, ring, and hoops by Kenneth Jay Lane.
Cover Story only “fluff” class she took was at Barnard, a science class called Surfaces and Knots. After Columbia, Mortimer elected to stay in the city, eventually designing a handbag and clothing line for Samantha Thavasa, which is sold primarily in Japan, though it can also be found at the store on Madison Avenue. More recently, she launched her own clothing line, Riccimie by Tinsley Mortimer, which is sold exclusively in Japan at stores like Isetan. According to Mortimer, her interest in fashion began as a child. She fondly recalls a story of her childhood, involving—what else?—her first shoe obsession. “My first memory of getting a shoe that I had to have were these little red patent Mary Jane shoes that I got in Palm Beach. I remember specifically begging my mom [for them] and she wouldn’t get them, so my godfather bought them for me. I wore those shoes until there were holes in the [soles]. I’ve always said, I feel like my obsession with little ankle straps and Mary Jane shoes began there because it was the shoe that I had to have.” She shared her love of fashion with her mother, and her obsession influenced her studies in art history at Columbia, where she focused on “fashion and the depiction of silks and clothing over the centuries.” Besides working in apparel design, Mortimer had a brief stint as a reality television star on The CW’s “High Society,” which first aired in March 2010. The show, which documented the lives of a few socialites, including Mortimer’s, “changed a little bit during filming.” It came under fire for controversial words spoken by socialite Jules Kirby—among other things. Despite the cancellation of the show after only eight episodes, Mortimer is grateful for the experience in more ways than one. Besides getting exposure for her name and having more opportunities come along, she notes, “It’s almost like therapy when you’re filming a show like that, especially going through a divorce. [There are] cameras all around and you really
Dress by Cynthia Steffe; shoes by Brian Atwood; bangles by Kenneth Jay Lane; ring by Ginger Ignacio
start to think about yourself and how other people perceive you. You question yourself a lot. I came out of it so much stronger and more confident. “ With television and design experience under her belt, Mortimer plans to tackle a new project soon: a book to be published by Simon & Schuster. The novel, “Southern Charm,” is about a fictional character from the South moving to New York. Put more bluntly, she remarks, “It’s me, but fictional.”
both clothing lines, Mortimer has a lot on her plate at the moment. She comments, “I’m talking to different people in the fragrance world and in the clothing world about licensing deals.” Undoubtedly, she is working hard to keep her name splashed across Page Six. Perhaps it’s another show, another book, or another line, but no matter what, this former Columbian is staying in the spotlight.
While she is still working with HOOT www.hootmag.org
FUN FALL AC
incorporate rugged and academic accessories into your wardrobe for a chic twist on looks that are normally completely preppy and outdoorsy. Pair buckled peep-toes booties with a worn crossbody bag and add femininity with colored enamel bracelets. Or wear lace-up boots with hiking socks and a tough, stitched-together bag. Choose fun, metallic notebooks or clutches to liven up your outfit. Finally, make sure to have a pop of color with pastel nails and multicolored bracelets. For a girlish and fun touch, layer your glam gold bracelets with Silly Bandz â€“ even academic-inspired accessories need to lighten up a bit.
Left: Bag and skirt, modelâ€™s own. Shoes, Botkier, $395. Bow bracelets, Rachel Leigh, $72 each. Fin bracelet, Disney Couture, at Karmaloop.com. Gumball ring, Rachel Leigh, $96. Knot rings, Erica Weiner, at Karmaloop.com.
Center: Skirt and notebooks, Stylistâ€™s own. Shoes, Pink Studio, $94.99 at Modcloth.com. Rubber bracelets, Silly Bandz. Jaw bracelet, Disney Couture, $50 at Karmaloop.com. Jeweled bracelets, Rachel Leigh, $144 each. Ring set, $14.99 at Modcloth.com.
by anna cooperberg photographed by samuel draxler model sharon wu
Right: Skirt, shoes, rings, stylistâ€™s own. Bag, Botkier, $295. Rubber bracelets, Silly Bandz. Gunmetal link bracelet, Rachel Leigh, $164.Multicolor bracelet, Disney Couture, $48 at Karmaloop.com. Headphones bracelet, Monserat de Lucca, $82.99 at Modcloth.com. Nail polish, Essie.
Muted tones autumn’s
POLISHED MILITARY Shirt, Blu Sand Italy Pants & Shoes, model’s own Belt, stylist’s own
This fall, pair separates in fatigue green, charcoal grey, rich brown and khaki. Add leather accents and layered jewelry to complete the look. Photographed by Dave Lieberman, makeup by Sharon Shum, styled by Donia Abdelaziz, Anna Cooperberg, Martin Hamery. Models: Caroline Gagne and Malik Winslow.
s MIXED BAG Mix textures like leather and quilted jersey. Skirt, $90 Zara shirt and jacket, stylistâ€™s own.
COVER UP A rich tartan cape goes nicely with suede booties and a slinky dress. Skirt, dress, $46 American Apparel Cape, $129 Zara
COZY COOL Transition into winter with simple darkwash jeans and soft sweaters. Jeans and sweater, modelâ€™s own.
Global Fashion three cities to look out for in the future by anna cooperberg and gayoung kim
lthough those in the fashion industry hail from a multitude of locations, the cities of New York, Milan, London and Paris host the most publicized and prestigious fashion weeks. However, up-and-coming fashion weeks in Seoul, Istanbul and Tbilisi will soon be added to the list of major players.
Illustrated by Shelly Xu
eoul is a hotbed for fashion; the city boasts great shopping, complete with local clothing and accessories brands. Style plays a major part in the lives of Korean women; they are impeccably and femininely dressed at all times, and heels are a must. Korean designers know what their customers want, such as flowing silks and intricate lace. Unfortunately, Seoul’s decade-old fashion week is not without its fair share of problems. For example, the government plays a large role in the event’s organization. Many attendees complain that this results in a boring week, particularly as the established designers favored by the government tend to be more conservative. Nevertheless, Seoul Fashion Week has improved and become more organized in the past 10 years.
he city of the moment is Istanbul, Turkey, which held its fashion week in August. Three years ago, a group of Turkish designers co-founded the Fashion Designers Association. They soon joined forces with the giants of the country’s textile industry to launch Istanbul’s first-ever fashion week. This year, more members of the international press attended the event, which was co-sponsored by ELLE Turkey. The clothing exhibited the decorative qualities of the national textiles with extensive patterns and designs. British/Turkish-Cypriote designer, Hussein Chalayan, showcased a retrospective presentation in the Istanbul Modern Museum, where the week’s shows were held. Despite its short history, Istanbul Fashion Week is poised to grow in the coming years, as there are already whispers that it will be a must-see on the fashion circuit in the future.
t’s under a year old, but Georgia Fashion Week in Tbilisi already has people buzzing. Recent appearances include the likes of Roberto Cavalli, and haute couture favorite, Irakli Nasidze, who is of Georgian origin, opened the week with his show. Georgia has wanted to hold a fashion week in Tbilisi for some time, but was stopped by the violent events of South Ossetia’s war in 2008. With the inaugural Georgia Fashion Week in May 2010, Tbilisi hoped to attract international attention and tourism for the country. In addition to the runway shows by both national and international designers, like Spain’s Agatha Ruiz de la Prada, there was an accessories exhibition that garnered much attention by showcasing traditional Georgian handmade jewelry, handbags and crafts. Even though Tbilisi is new to high fashion, street-style photos prove that the city has already mastered the art of urban chic styling: high-waist skinny jeans, menswear trousers, statement necklaces and blazers galore.
BPA on Campus in honor of breast cancer awareness month by jina lim
t is no news that tobacco smoke, excessive alcohol, UV rays and asbestos are carcinogens that can cause cancers by inducing irreversible mutations in DNA. However, recent studies suggest that Bisphenol-A (BPA) in receipts and airline tickets is associated with cancers as well. This lesser-known chemical is capturing the attention of many scientists for its potentially harmful effects, and many labs around the globe are currently conducting research to verify BPA’s effect on humans. This common compound can be found everywhere— including dorm rooms and kitchens. This month, students can support the cause of Breast Cancer Awareness Month with Hoot and educate themselves on ways to avoid BPA, which has high correlations with breast cancer among many other health risks.
most receipts use a technology called thermal imaging, applying heat to powder BPA to produce color. These powder BPA molecules are loose and may be more ready for uptake than the BPA in food packaging.
BPA (BISPHENOL-A) Where is it? BPA is used in manufacturing polycarbonate plastics (hard, clear, and hard-to-break plastics) such as food and beverage containers, reusable water bottles, reusable food containers, polycarbonate hardware, and nail polish. Many resins that line cans of food also contain this chemical, which can be absorbed by food products. A recent Health Canada study found that most canned soft drinks contain BPA, likely absorbed from the internal coating of the cans. More shockingly, the carbonless copy paper that students use for lab reports contains high concentrations of BPA, which can be absorbed through the skin or ingested when the residue is left on their hands. Also,
What can BPA do? BPA may increase the risk of cancer by mimicking the body’s own hormones, thereby disrupting the endocrine system. Animal studies have found that BPA mimics the biological function of estrogen; increased exposure to estrogen can potentially increase the risk of breast cancer. Moreover, many studies show that BPA exposure may increase the risk of
obesity. As shown in a 2008 study by the Yale School of Medicine, BPA also affects the neurons associated with memory, learning and mood. How do I minimize the intake BPA? Since BPA can be leached into food or drinks, avoid heating plastic containers at high temperatures, washing them with harsh detergents, or rinsing them with acidic liquids. The National Toxicology Panel recommends avoiding microwaving food in plastic containers or putting plastics in the dishwasher. If possible, avoid polycarbonate plastic containers and opt for glass or stainless steel bottles for carrying water. Use glass, porcelain or stainless steel hardware, especially for hot food and liquids. Avoid canned foods and remember to wash hands after contact with receipts and carbonless copy paper. How do I identify polycarbonate plastics? All polycarbonate plastics have the “7 in a triangle” stamp, sometimes with the letters “PC”. However, make sure the plastic is not pliable because the resin identification code 7 is shared with many other plastics. If a bottle is missing a stamp but is clear, hard and shatterproof, it is probably a polycarbonate plastic. These polycarbonates are likely to contain BPA, unless the packaging indicates they are BPA free. Some food containers may be marked with this “BPA Free” sign. Other containers may use the term “Microwave Safe”. These signs imply that the products were designed to withstand heat and microwave without the risk of BPA leaching.
Beauty Lipsticks are perfect for varying looks during the fall and winter when the face is one of the few parts of the body not covered up. The ever-soslight orange hue makes the amazing nude lip color, perfect when paired with smokey eyes. Here’s a quick fix of SPF and moisture for the conscious, but busy; just spray on before/after applying foundation, or even without foundation.
Revlon Super Lustrous Lipstick in Apricot Fantasy; revlon.com
Revlon Photo Ready Makeup; revlon.com
Urban Decay Guardian Angel Spray Moisturizer; urbandecay.com
Tired of the same bright red? Try a darker, more sophisticated wine color for a highdrama effect and more personality! Revlon ColorBurst Lipstick in Raspberry; revlon.com
Editor’s Favorites for Fall & Winter
This handy product will absorb oil and prime your skin, making it look more smooth and regular. Use with or without makeup for flawless complexion. Urban Decay De-Slick in a Tube; urbandecay.com
Armed with SPF 20, this alternative to liquid foundations turns into a matte liquid as the applicator meets the liquefying screen. Bonus points for the mirror and applicator inside! Compact
Lipsticks are perfect for varying looks during the fall and winter when the face is one of the few parts of the body not covered up. Try this pop of pink for a fresh, innocent look. Revlon ColorBurst Lipstick in Baby Pink; revlon.com
O-Gloss slowly changes color from clear to pink-red when applied. How fun! This high definition foundation is affordable and effective. Don’t fret close-up pictures anymore!
Smashbox O-Gloss Intuitive Lip Gloss; smashbox.com
Revlon Photo Ready Makeup; revlon.com
Unleashed Festivities Indulge in limitless, high-drama makeup this Halloween with intense pigments, bold eye shadow, and lots of sparkles
Eyes: Maybelline Volume Express Turbo Boost Mascara Laura Mercier Eye Colour in American Coffee MAC Prep + Prime Complexion: Lanc么me Tropiques Min茅rale Pressed Bronzer in Natural Sunkiss Bobbi Brown Shimmer Brick Compact in Apricot Revlon Photo Ready Makeup in 003 Shell Director: Jina Lim Photographer: Edson Bobadilla Model: Nicole Bleule Makeup Artists: Emma Stein and Sharon Shum
EXTRATERRESTRIAL BEAUTY Eyes: MAC Liquidlast Liner in Aqualine
Complexion: Make Up For Ever 5 Camouflage Cream Palette EstĂŠe Lauder Intensive Concealing Duo in Light Medium 02 Revlon Photo Ready Compact Makeup in Ivory 050 Lips: Revlon Super Loustrous Lipstick in Iced Amethyst
silver base and eyeliner colors can be changed to suit almost any look Eyes: Urban Decay Heavy Metal Glitter Eyeliner in Air Guitar and Stagedive Too Faced Starry Eyed Liner in Obsessed Fan SEPHORA Collection Colorful Mono in Engagement Ring 01 MAC Plush Lash in Plushblack Complexion: MAC Mineralize Skinfinish Natural in Medium MAC Emanuel Ungaro Beauty Powder in Flower Mist Dew Lips: MAC Cremesheen Glass in Boy Bait
Eyes: Urban Decay Matte Eyeshadow in Yeyo MAC Brow Set in Clear MAC Eye Brows in Velvetone shu uemura Ultimate Expression Mascara Complexion: Blush - Mineralize Blush in Intenso (dark red/pink) Lips: CHANEL LĂˆVRES SCINTILLANTES GLOSSIMER in 129 MAC Superglass in Cherry Electric
Building Fashion at HL23 fashion meets architecture by nicole estevez
uilding Fashion is a fascinating concept from architect Spilios Gianakopoulos and local nonprofit arts and culture organization BOFFO. The project paired fashion designers with architects to produce five different installations. It is located at 504 W. 24th Street in Chelsea directly underneath the High Line amid the construction of the widely anticipated steel residential building, HL23, designed by architect Neil Denari.
events [with] unique, location-specific, characteristics.” When Hoot met Gregory he was in the process of reapplying a new stock of cotton to a wall sectioning off the Tin and an expanse on the other side with countless cotton bales intended to be used for seating. Hoot: Can you tell me a little bit about this outdoor space and the presence of the cotton bales? Sparks: Supima, a cotton manufacturing company, is one of our co-spon-
Hoot: What about the design on the floor and this other wall separating this area from HL23? Will it remain here once construction is completed? Sparks: The floor is made of wooden board painted gray with the silhouettes of cotton plants made using a router. The concrete cement brick wall closest to HL23 was intended for use in the original winning design. The plan was to have mirrors placed at the base of the wall enabling visitors to admire the dynamic façade of HL23 with a
We’re constantly influenced by the parameters that a site provides; because we’re constantly moving around, we’re always presented with different limits and resources. The designer-architect collaborations are held in a temporary structure, sandwiched between 23rd and 24th Streets. The converted trailer, known as the Tin at HL23, was donated to the project for the duration of the installations by HL23. Hoot was fortunate enough to talk with Gregory Sparks, Co-Director of BOFFO, an organization which seeks to temporarily transform locations and, as they say, to “provide exposure for artists and designers through exhibitions and
sors and it was interesting to also use them as a resource to help furnish this outdoor space behind the installation structure. They held a competition and the winning design, called “Flat Field” by local firm Konyk, is what you see here. The plants over on this one side are actual cotton plants, some of which are beginning to bloom; it’s interesting because we were putting these in just as the plants on the High Line were being placed directly above us.
flipped perspective, but construction and the elements have affected this aspect of the final layout and we weren’t able to keep the mirrors up. This is still, however, a great juxtaposition of high design with the HL23, the raw, organic elements of this cotton garden, and the varying installations a few feet away. This is all temporary, no more than three months. What we really wanted to do was show the potential of the space, which is open to the public and which has been used
Arts & Entertainment for events since it opened, and hopefully move on to another location soon. In addition, Hoot was able to discuss the work of Heather Huey with the designer herself on the last day of her Building Fashion installation (the second one in the series of five) with New York City-based firm Urban A&O, an urban design firm known for their use of parametric modeling. The undulating black walls lining the interior of the installation space are a product of the parametric technology the firm is exploring, complementing the forms of Heather Huey’s sculptural and organically shaped pieces very well. Huey is a milliner and accessory designer who had a collection of hats as well as two bodies of work on display, “The Cocoon Project” and “The Asylum Project”, the latter being the sequel to her black “Cages” project. Most recently her work has been featured on the cover of the September issue of Korean Vogue, in the spread Beautiful Stranger in the September issue of ELLE, and in “With Night Comes the Darkness” styled by Nicola Formichetti in the popular A/W 2010 issue of Japan’s Vogue Hommes with a masculine Lady Gaga gracing the cover. Hoot: What are your pieces made out of and how long did both projects take to construct? Huey: The pieces in “The Cocoon Project” are made out of excess felt from the hats I’ve made. This provided me with the challenge to not be completely structured and to introduce color in my work since I love the color black. These pieces took about a year to make. Meanwhile, the pieces in “The Asylum Project” are made out of white boning and took about six weeks total. Hoot: Your white cages are all shaped in interesting ways; did you use models for the outlines? Huey: I actually used myself; I felt that dress forms were inaccurate. Hoot: When did you find out about Building Fashion? How long will it take to deconstruct your installation now
that it is the final day? Also are all of the designers spending time here at the installations with their work? Huey: I found out about Building Fashion in June and met the architects in July. It should take a few hours to take down then House of Waris, the jewelry collection designed by Waris Ahluwalia, will come in with architect Christian Wassmann with their installation running from the 7th to the 17th. Richard Chai will show his in three weeks followed by Siki Im. Every designer is different but they might pop in a few times during their scheduled displays. Hoot: What are your plans after this? Huey: I plan on taking a break for the
rest of October and will debut more pieces early next year. The following day Hoot was able to meet with the Co-Founders/ Co-Directors of Building Fashion, Faris Al-Shathir (also Co-Director of BOFFO with Gregory Sparks) and Spilios Gianakopoulos. Hoot: When did the link with fashion come about? How active were you in the selection process for both the designers and the architects? Al-Shathir: Both Spilios and I are interested in fashion and we wanted to work on this series bringing fashion and architecture together on a sort of retail environment scale. We came up with a proposal for the developer this past spring and they loved the idea. We personally pulled in all of the fashion designers and we really want-
ed diversity among them—we didn’t want just menswear or just womenswear designers or just clothing—and were also interested in keeping the caliber very high. We didn’t have many architects in mind at first but Architizer, a social networking site linking the architectural community, hosted our design competition and we reviewed the submissions. Hoot: Essentially midway through the schedule of installations, where do you see Building Fashion going? Would you or are you considering resurrecting it here in New York City next year, in other major US cities, or abroad? Gianakopoulos: We’re already talking about possibly bringing Building Fashion to Europe before bringing it back to New York. We definitely want Building Fashion to become a recurring series. There were many constraints with this space because we could only have one installation at a time, so we would like to explore having simultaneous ones and maybe having a larger space. Al-Shathir: We’re constantly influenced by the parameters that a site provides; because we’re constantly moving around, we’re always presented with different limits and resources. Building Fashion as a concept involves pairing fashion designers with architects, but besides that it can evolve into a number of things. We definitely want it to be an annual thing in New York—maybe every fall, whether it’s five stores back-to-back or all at once. Building Fashion’s Remaining Installations Installation 4: Richard Chai and Snarkitecture (October 21-31) Installation 5: Siki Im and Leong Leong (November 5-15) Visit Building Fashion at 504 West 24th Street, and the following websites: http://www.buildingfashion.org/ http://www.heatherhuey.com/ http://www.hl23.com/
Anywhere But Here futuristic intonation in antonio azzuolo’s fall/winter 2010 collection by augusto corvalan
sells for upwards of $2,000 on eBay today. Interestingly, the book was published in Japan, where American Trad is also a huge trend.
Sometimes dubbed as “preppy” or “country club wear,” the style was originally known as the Ivy League style. It was the go-to style for young Ivy Leaguers during the 1950s and was revived during the 1970s—this time dubbed as American Trad. While American Trad is an old-fashioned style, it has been fully embraced by new media. Blogs like Ivy Style (ivy-style.com) furiously detail its evolution, and their growing number of readers debate endlessly on forums. Esquire’s Big Black Book 2010 was nothing but a celebration of American Trad, showcasing boat shoes and sweater vests. Meanwhile, shows such as “Mad Men” and “Gossip Girl” equate the style with a luxurious and grand lifestyle. However, while American Trad has an enormous influence on the fashion world today, the style is seldom written about and fashionistas looking to break into the style will have a hard time finding a concrete guide. The definitive volume on American Trad remains Take Ivy, a book published in 1965 that routinely
Since walking through campus can often make one feel as if they have been transported to Princeton during the ‘50s, surveying the latest fashion lines can be something of an extreme contrast. While American Trad, as showcased by fashion labels like Brooks Brothers and Polo Ralph Lauren, fully embraces the past, fashion houses like Gucci and Prada are looking towards the future. Their recent lines reveal sleek fabrics and cuts that seem straight out of a sciencefiction movie. For his RAD collection, designer Rad Hourani goes for a bleak, black-and-white look that’s full of sharp, straight cuts and shiny fabrics. Hourani’s models all sport an androgynous look and covered eyes, giving the line a bleak atmosphere reminiscent of George Orwell’s 1984. Perhaps the most striking example of the futuristic trend is Balenciaga’s Nicolas Ghesquiere, whose menswear line of simple colors and Marty McFlystyle jackets appear to have been stolen from Disneyland’s Tomorrowland exhibit. Even his models, all of them sporting goggles and the same bland expression and haircut, seem taken out of a dystopian future. Futurism is showing up in subtler ways in plenty of other places. By using bright colors and asymmetric cuts, Thom Browne invoked much of what makes the other two lines seem so futuristic, and applied it in a much more toned down way. Browne’s models even sport the unisex, clone look seen in the more
ew York City: the setting of a thousand movies. Even when walking through the streets with no cameras rolling, the city can make the average pedestrian feel like a movie star. Lately, however, the movie feels like a period piece. Vests and bowties dot the crowds. Natural fabrics and penny loafers are worn without a second thought. Every once in a while, a single-breasted suit or plaid blazer can be spotted. Even the most trivial meeting is seen as a formal event. Without a doubt, American Trad is back.
overtly futuristic lines. For now, American Trad and futurism are widely separated; one dominates the street while the other populates the runways. As the futuristic trends adopted by risk-taking designers trickle down to everyday fashion, the Golden Age and the silver future of America will mix to create some very enticing fall fashions.
Arts & Entertainment
Bringing Design to Life action! design over time
by alexandra lotero
ction! Design Over Time,” MoMA’s ongoing installation from the contemporary design collection, takes a novel approach to the presentation of the creation and uses of a variety of everyday objects. The exhibition occupies only one-quarter of the design galleries on the third floor, but is packed with innovative presentations of furniture, software, medical supplies and dishware. Visitors used to passively admiring MoMA’s paintings and sculptures at a distance will be excited by the opportunity to witness exactly how a contemporary chair is designed, try out innovative software or view the creation of a vase. “GROW,” a solar and wind energy capture system that mimics the form of ivy, shares wall space with “I Want You to Want Me,” a program for discovering online dating profiles. The curious congregate before a 54-inch screen to sort through a multitude of balloons, each of which represents a potential date. Aside from the interactive installations of the exhibition, there are plenty of products displayed as per usual for MoMA. However, the curators have adopted an elegant solution to the problem of showing static
objects: They paired each object with a video showing its creation or function. Reading that “The Honeycomb Vase ‘Made by Bees’” was created by placing a vase-shaped scaffold in the middle of a bee colony is interesting, but seeing the process of its creation, with the bees swarming around building their beehive, is stunning, especially when the final result sits in front of the viewer. Similarly, seeing someone scribble analgesic gel on their arm with the “Therapeutic Felt-tip Pen” creates a more resonant experience for museum-goers than simply reading that medical technologies are evolving to enable the patient to become more active in the healing process. The exhibition’s method is at its best when the creation of the piece is just as fascinating as the end product. Designer Joris Laarman created computer software that mimics the growth of bones to determine the final design of “The Bone Chair.” Bones develop the most mass at the areas exposed to the most stress, so following this biological process allows the creation of an aluminum chair without any excess material. An accompanying visual allows visitors to follow the paring process of the chair from a rectangular block to a sleek, almost vein-like design. When perusing the gallery, a kind of tension between works whose designs were computer-based and those designed in a more traditional manner comes to light. Ammar Eloueini moderates this tension with his digitally designed “CoReFab#116_25”. The design of each “CoReFab” chair is based on a pause in an ever-changing digital animation. This process ensures that each chair in the series is completely unique. Photographs of different pauses in the chair animation allow visitors
to see designs that slightly vary from the actual chair on view. The most intriguing works in the exhibition are those that are not static in any way, but actually play with the central theme of the exhibit, which is time. “Cinema Redux: Vertigo,” for example, presents the entire film Vertigo in one image comprised of many small stills. The viewer can literally see the entire film at once. The whole product creates an abstract pattern, but it is still possible to follow the details of the plot from still to still. Meanwhile, Neri Oxman’s “Cartesian Wax,” from the “Materialecology” series of computerdesigned materials produced at MIT, is a prototype wax that can be used as a building material. This ever-changing wax would be able to adapt to structural needs, as well as lighting and weather conditions, by altering its thickness, strength, and transparency. Highlighting the often-overlooked aspects of creation and function makes “Action! Design Over Time” a distinctively engaging exhibition. Design is not depicted simply through the display of final products but through the exploration of the object’s creation and the relationship with its intended users. Imagine yourself applying medicine with a pen, wearing a necklace designed using computational algorithms, walking into a campus building covered in solar panels masked as ivy, or putting flowers into a vase constructed by bees. “Action! Design Over Time” brings contemporary design to life. MoMA’s “Action! Design Over Time” runs through January 31, 2011. Admission is free with CUID. HOOT www.hootmag.org
Fall Trends for Less
by lydia ding UNIQLO $19.99
combine rich, jewel tone hues with conservative pieces for a romantic, fall feel
DRIES VAN NOTEN
let your inner fierce diva peek out with touches of feline friendly accents
chilly fall seasons mean hot apple cider and a closet full of cozy knit sweaters
RAG & BONE
Forever21 $34.80 Runway images courtesy of Style.com
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