IN HIGH SPIRITS
Glasgow’s hip hotspot The Spiritualist certainly attracts a chic crowd – but is it all style over substance? Jennifer Crichton-Gibson finds out…
T
here’s something slightly discombobulating about showing up at one of Scotland’s hottest cocktail bars in the midst of a sober spring. After all, it’s one thing to pledge to 100 dry days while shaking off a festive hangover, quite another to resist temptation in a spot that simply screams decadence. Understated, The Spiritualist is not. Frequented by Glasgow’s beautiful people, there’s a slightly modern-day Gatsby vibe about the place, a feeling that hedonism is never far away. Tables hang, suspended and spot lit, from the vaulted ceiling, while those not organised enough to have booked a pew mill in front of a supremely stylish bar packed with rare and specialist spirits. Art-deco touches such as golden globe chandelier lights, huge portraits and touches of navy and teal in the restaurant space add to the truly opulent ambiance, while a DJ spinning tunes from decks set atop a grand piano ensures that patrons are left in no doubt about this being somewhere to come for fun, not peace and quiet. 60 • hood
So often, however, the appeal of such spots begins and ends with the cocktail list, the menu falling somewhat short of the mixology. So, it is with great relief that we note The Spiritualist’s mission statement, outlining sustainable, seasonal and largely Scottish sourcing practices – beef and lamb comes from Millers of Speyside, seafood from Glasgow’s Bernard Corrigan Ltd and fruit and veg from Charles Stamper, while cheese, eggs and dairy are locally sourced. It’s an impressive list, and one that fills us with optimism. Things start well with a Smokehouse fish plate, £8.50, stacked with well-balanced smoked salmon, deliciously fresh flaked trout and a scoop of mackerel pate, alongside some deliciously crisp rye bread. However, I can’t help but be a tad disappointed with my starter of seared Shetland king scallops with scallop roe salsa, cauliflower puree, black pudding and crisp pancetta – strictly speaking, the elements are all there, and all tasty, but the portion size is tiny, priced at £10 for three small nuggets of scallop that