EXTRAVAGANCE February Issue 2013
All about the designer and his glamorous life
The newest trends for this season
Places to eat
The 6 hottest places to eat this month
Pictures from Fashion Week
New York shoes
Exclusive interviews with New Yorks hottest profiles
Glamorous shoes for your next charity dinner
Have a look behind the sceens of Extravagance Retro design theme in this number of Extravagance How does your future look from the stars
BACKSTAGE Sophie Wendt 33 years, Journalist
In 1997, Sophie Wendt became a contributing editor on fashion for American Vogue, of which Anna Wintour, also British, had been editor-in-chief since 1988. Today she works as a fashion journalist for Extrawagance, and has won many awards for her work.
Extravagance New York Media, 75 Varick Street New York, NY, 10013 Tlf: 212 508 0700 E-mail: email@example.com www.extravagance.com Director: Jody Quon Chief Editor: Elaine Hohlt Editorial Director: Ann Clarke Fashion Editor: Lane Brown Art Director: Jon Gluck Ipad Art Director: David Niell Ass. Art Director: Amy Larca Web Editor: Patti Greco Imaging: Jessica Silvester Proofreading: Robin Raisfeld Fashion Ass.: Alicia Kennedy Secretary: Sally Holmes Marketing: Jed Egan Writers: Dan Amira, Kyle Buchanan, Charlotte Cowles, Gilbert Cruz, Denise Martin, Carolyn Murnick, Maureen O’Connor, Kurt Soller, Sophie Wendt Illustrators: Amanda Dobbins, Jesse David Fox, Christina Han, Margaret Lyons, Steven Kim Hair & Makeup: Anna Flach Photographer: Sally Bob Stylist: Souvanni Stear
Steven Kim 37 years, Illustrator
After a Master og Arts Degree in illustration at the Royal College of arts, Steven landed a series of assignments drawing at the Couture shows in Paris. Following that experience Steven filed numerous visual reports form the shows in New York.
39 years, Photographer
CONDÉ NAST 4
Sally is a internationally published fashion photographer based in New York. She specialize in fashion portraiture. She founded Cuellar in 2010 out of her passion and love for creating customized art for our clients and capturing life’s amazing circle.
RETRO STYLING Retro is a culturally outdated or aged style, trend, mode, or fashion, from the overall post-modern past, that has since that time become functionally or superficially the norm once again. The use of “retro” style iconography and imagery interjected into post-modern art, advertising, mass media, etc. It generally implies a vintage of at least 15 or 20 years. For example clothing from the 1980s or 1990s could be retro. The word “retro” derives from the Latin prefix retro, meaning “backwards, or in past times” – particularly as seen in the words retrograde, implying a movement toward the past instead of a progress toward the future, and retrospective, referring to a nostalgic (or critical) eye toward the past. In the postwar period, it increased in usage with the appearance of the word retrorocket (short for “retrograde rocket”, a rocket generating thrust in a direction opposite to that of a spacecraft’s orbital motion) used by the American space program in the 1960s. In
France, the word rétro, an abbreviation for rétrospectif gained cultural currency with reevaluations of Charles de Gaulle and France’s role in World War II. The French mode rétro of the 1970s reappraised in film and novels the conduct of French civilians during the Nazi occupation. The term rétro was soon applied to nostalgic French fashions that recalled the same period. Shortly thereafter it was introduced into English by the fashion and culture press, where it suggests a rather cynical revival of older but relatively recent fashions. (Elizabeth E. Guffey, Retro: The Culture of Revival, pp. 9–22). Latin prefix retro, meaning “backwards, or in past times” – particularly as seen in the words retrograde, implying a movement toward the past instead of a progress toward the future, and retrospective, referring to a nostalgic (or critical) eye toward the past. The use of “retro” style iconography and imagery interjected into post-modern art, advertising, mass media, etc. It generally implies a vintage of at least 15 or 20 years.
Calvin Klein made to design By Nina Høfdinghoff
New Yorker Calvin Klein is today an fashion icon with his minimalistic and wearable design, but how did he achieve this remarkable success? The beginning His life began humbly. Klein, who was born on November 19, 1942, grew up in a Jewish immigrant family in the northern part of the Bronx, near Riverdale. He rarely mentions his older brother or younger sister, but they all lived in very close quarters in the small apartment where he spent his entire youth. Right from the start. Klein saw what it meant to work hard. Klein early on expressed his own
interest in fashion, sketching his designs and throwing himself into special art classes at P.S. 80. When he learned that a friend’s mother had been a designer, he was over the moon. “I don’t think I was more than 10 or 11, but I glommed on to her, showing her my sketches and ideas, and talking to her about them all the time,” he says with a laugh. His intimates always talk about Klein’s drive and ambition. As Barry Diller, his friend of some 30 years, says, “In any place, in any business—in anythingCalvin would succeed. With him it’s a force of curiosity and willfulness.” At the beginning, there was also impatience.Klein says, “I couldn’t wait to get to high school so that I could get out of the Bronx. As soon as I got to school, I couldn’t wait to get to work. I was always in a rush, and I was always thinking about the next step and the future.” This was not a kid who played hooky. I was always in art class, he remembers. But I knew at an early age that I wasn’t going to be a painter in a studio working with a canvas. I was interested in design, in clothes, he said. Interested in all the possibilites of fashion design and how clothes can be functional..
The education Calvin Klein’s fashion-anddesign education.New York’s High School of Industrial Arts, in Manhattan; extra classes at the wonderful Art Students League; college at the Fashion Institute of Technology, from which he graduated in 1963; a string of the garmento jobs—was very solid. From high school through out college the routine was so very dull: wake up, go into Manhattan on the train for classes, take the train back home to the Bronx at night, get the homework done, go to bed, and start all over again the next morning. But his ability to give it his all was in the blood. “I came from a family in which all they did was talk about work” he says to me.
Times changing Perhaps it’s only fitting that the house that became Calvin Klein, Inc., was born out of this brew of changing times, changing lives, and cultural revolutions. Change seems to be in the company’s DNA. Right from the very start Klein wanted to clear away the cobwebs. It means when you’re
you were around a hundred years from now ” “and Ifwanted a definitive picture of the American look in 1975, you’d study Calvin Klein.
seated at a table there has to be something happening from the waist up. I would think, Who on earth thinks like this? It has to be such an antiquated way of creating clothes for a modern woman, he stated. He so nailed the way that women in the late 60s wanted to dress that when the oh so very famous Donald O’Brien, Bonwit Teller’s general merchandise manager, got off the elevator on the wrong floor and then accidentally landed in our Calvin Klein’s showroom something instantly attracted him. What he saw right there included the midcalf-length coats in a variety of pale colors and simple high-waisted sleeveless shift dresses
The sucess The success of the first few years was due to many factors, not just the way Klein’s designs hit a nerve. The partners did their own P.R., cold-calling buyers, other fashion people, and that era’s retail bible, the Tobe Report. As Klein says, “The great thing with fashion is that word travels fast.” Besides, Schwartz knew exactly how to play it, and Klein himself was a lure. He moved in the same circles as Cole Porter and Noël Coward, was full of stories about Coco Chanel, and worked under Diana Vreeland, the most inspired nutter in all of fashion-magazine history. The September 1975 Vogue trumpeted, “If you were around a hundred years from now and wanted a definitive picture of the American look in 1975, you’d study Calvin Klein.”
Calvin Klein Inc. He began making a name for himself as a man-about-town, with a list of consorts that eventually included both women and men, but he was continuing to give work his all. It was in 1977 that Calvin Klein the man became Calvin Klein- the icon; you can pinpoint it in the press coverage, in the paparazzi shots of him and Bianca Jagger and Liza Minnelli and Andy Warhol and everyone else who was hanging out at Studio 54, the era’s defining nightclub. Calvin Klein was in that period one of a kind. He could inspire people with his hardworking attitude towards his intense passion. Klein was truly made for Studio 54, which opened in April 1977, and the club, where the creativity and this license that were coursing through the 1970s flowered, seems to have been made for him. For a few years, the disco was the nerve center for New York’s fashion, art, and fun entertainment worlds.By 1981 a new arrival had been added to the team. Kelly Rector would become an integral part of Klein’s life as his partner, wife, and, now, intimate friend, but she started out as an assistant who’d been so very aware of him as a nighttime glamour-puss as well as a profound happening designer.
The icon One thing is for sure. Calvin Klein’s history has shaped him into an interesting and talented man, who we all look up to.
Calvin Klein Fall/Winter 2011 EXTRAVAGANCE
HOROSCOPES Aquarius 1/20 - 2/18 Aquarians are generally very clever, witty, beautiful, and intellectual. They love to dress in a simple way. They are very pragmatic when it comes to their pretty lovely dressing style, however it’s the colors of water they carry: turquoise, aqua, and silver. Aquitarius’ shoe would be the blue beauty for exapmple from Christian Louboutin the Daffodile blue, would be a great match. It’s the right color, it’s simple but yet very fashionable. Go out and buy it all you fantastic Aquarians.
Leo 7/23 – 8/22
Sagittarius 11/22 – 12/21
Take one positive step toward better health today -- or more, if you feel it! Now is the best possible time to make sure that you’re feeling better for the coming times of strife and action! But remember the botox this motnh
Your cash flow needs some attention. That doesn’t necessarily mean you need to take on a new job or slash spending, but you do have the mental energy to handle budget problems with flair. Ask Oprah she still knows everything.
A run-in with a cop or a neighborhood busybody leaves you fuming, but you shouldn’t escalate. It’s not as bad as it seems, and your ego is sure to heal itself up in no time. Don’t make it worse! - so buy a new expensive bag.
Virgo 8/23 – 9/22
You feel more attached than usual to your people -- so let them know! It’s a great day for you to step up and make a big show out of your emotions. The right people are sure to be pleased with what they see.I’m sure you like that red lipstick, but you know it’s last season, drop it!
You may have been banging your head against a wall lately trying to figure something out, but today it all clicks into place. You should find that at least one major issue clears up almost overnight! Remember so sing out lout and dance. You need a good dance as well.
You make so much progress today that you may shock even yourself. It could be that you’re working on a new video game or a romantic pursuit instead of work or school, but there’s no shame in that! You need to take a break maybe a vacatiion or so. It will be good for you.
Gemini 5/21 – 6/21 Think things through today -- you can’t just shoot from the hip and hope for the best! If you have to take some time to yourself to ponder all the angles, that’s fine.
Libra 9/23 – 10/22 You’ve forgotten something important -- but there’s part of you that has perfect recall. Just let your mind drift until that tiny voice reminds you of what you need to take care
Cancer 6/22 – 7/22
Scorpion 10/23 – 11/21
Now is the best time to firm up plans with family or colleagues. It could just be lunch tomorrow, or it could be a big production that could make or break your company
You need to focus on the small stuff today, which might frustrate you at other times, but can feel like a game now. Things may change for the better in the near future
Pisces 2/19 – 3/20 It’s time to act! Things are heating up in a big way, and that means that you need to step up to make sure that all goes well. It’s a good time for you to let it be.
Places to eat Here is where you should eat in 2013 in the fantasic cullinary world of New York.
Calliope Exceptional “new” Frenchbistro cuisine in an unpretentious downtown setting, at very reasonable prices. Picture below. 84 E. 4th St., New York, NY 10003 at Second Ave
The Masa disciples Nick Kim and Jimmy Lau give you a taste of the master’s style, minus the pretension and exowrbitant cost.
Gabriel Stulman’s most ambitious restaurant to date features a convivial bar and the best nose-to-tail
61 W 8th St., New York, NY 10011 nr. Sixth Avenue.
24 Minetta Lane, New York, NY 10012 nr. Sixth Ave
The NoMad The prices are steep for a casual hotel joint. You can’t argue with the range or quality of Danie Humm’s stylish country cooking.
POK POK NY
1170 Broadway,, NY 10001 nr. 28th S
Pok Pok Ny
Thanks to Andy Ricker, you don’t have to travel to Chiang Mai to taste real Northern Thai cooking. You just have to get yourself to the Brooklyn waterfront.
Unlike lots of the monkish locavore joints around town, this downtown bistro manages to be inventive, righteous, and fun at the same time, so visit here for fun
127 Columbia St., Brooklyn, NY 11231 at Kane St
9 Great Jones St., New York, NY 10012 nr. Lafayette St
WHAT’S HOT? by Amber Watson
This issues whats hot brings three New York names that you should be ashamed not to know, learn these three talents and you are good to go! We bring you Fashion Photographer Nina Hoefdinghoff, Graphic Designer and founder of Simply Graphics Lene Lausdahl and last but not least New York Fashiongenius Mathias Thorgaard.
Nina Hofdinghoff The fashion photographer who excels the New York scene these days is Nina Høfdinghoff. Miss Høfdinghoff creates a universe
01 International Fashion Photographer and freelance Art Director Nina Høfdinghoff.
where unicorns and high-class art meets in a perfect cloud of perfection. Nina Høfdinghoff has shot for this magazine, but also Vogue Italia, ELLE and Acne Paper
amongst others. Nina studied photography at Rhode Island School of Design. With an American father and Danish mother Nina is very internationally based with offices in New York, London and Milan, but the head office is in New York. Her love for New York is shown in her ‘NY heavenly footprints’series, which features Audrey Twitchells angel-like face. Armed with intensity, passion, smiles and a contagious laughter, she commands control of her set and makes the whole team feel good. Not only does Nina Høfdinghoff thrive in photography, she is also an accomplished freelance Art Director and comes up with interesting and new thinking ideas, concepts and styling for photoshoots. Nina has worked closely with numerous celebrities including Beyoncé, Rachel McAdams, Zooey Deschanel.
02 New York Based Graphic designer and founder of Simply Graphics Lene Lausdahl
Lene Lausdahl Lene Lausdahl is an internationally known graphic designer, who specializes in print designs, corporate identity (logo) design, web design,
Mathias Thorgaard Since launching his Fashion Line last season, 20-year-old Central Saint Martins MA graduate Mathias Thorgaard has struck an impressive balance between conceptual and wearable design. Inspired by shadows and reflections he creates stunning pieces that combines raw edge geometry with surreal digitalism. Handcrafted from a wide range of materials. This second collection is predicted to smash through the traditional designer mold with a very untraditional approach. ‘’I find that design has a lot of rules, and I want to take what I’ve learned from those rules and break them’’ he explains. This year’s collection will feature raw, bold designs with keywords such as exclusive, texture, unique and of course light, shadow and reflection. It has already been reveled that Mathias Thorgaard’s designs will
magazine design, branding and fashion illustrations. Lene has a degree in Visual Fashion Communication, and has worked with all the hot, ongoing trendsetters.
be a part of the New York Fashion Week opening show and even though everything is kept a secret our best guess is that Mathias Thorgaard has come up with a
Lene is the founder of “simply graphics” and her design studio is located in the center of New York. She is best known for her geometric designs and attention to detail. Lene has made lots of award-winning work in many categories such as fashion, culture, entertainment and charity. “Simply graphics” is a boutiquesized studio, she collaborate closely with her high-class clients and offer a full set of services. Clients have included The New York Times Magazine, Kate Spade New York, Nike, Björk and lately she has been working closely with Gucci. While the studio embraces diverse visual styles, points of view, techniques, cultures, and influences, its philosophy is strictly consistent: Make the idea clear and simple, the design surprising and beautiful.
high-concept edge, that will come through in his presentation via a few dramatic sculptured looks. ‘’I think a show should be a show!’’ Says Mathias Thorgaard.
03 New York based fashion designer Mathias Thorgaard opening designer at New York Fashion Week AW13