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Emese Backai:

make up

Makeup for everyone

1

Emese Backai

up make for everyone

ODKRIJ S V O J S T I L


Dedication This book is dedicated to anyone who is interested in makeup and wants to know the techniques of making up of their face. With the shown examples and descriptions of different ways of making up I

Text:

Emese Backai

Book designe:

Emese Backai

Make up and styling:

Emese Backai

want to share my experience and knowledge that I gained during my transformation from academic musician into a makeup artist. Facies - Faces My biggest gratitude for creating of this book goes to the women who en-

Photography:

Cover page:

trusted me with their faces for making up. In this way I was enabled to gain

Sylvia S. Kollar Emese Backai Bojan Sverko Vladimir Druskovic Miha Perosa Dejan Nikolic

valuable experience, through which I was able to develop my own skills of maEmese Backai

king up. Good basis I also want to thank my mentor, Gyöngyi Kilin, a makeup artist with an extre-

model: Léna Varju photo: Sylvia S. Kollar

mely high aesthetic sense for the faces. During my training at the FaceOn academy in Budapest I was revealed, entrusted and presented with the most useful and modern techniques of making up. Thanks to this, I was later able to develop a unique way of making up and a unique approach to the aesthetic presentation of faces. Inspiration - Art For my persistent and successful research work in the field of making up, pri-

Printed in Slovenia by:

marily I must also thank Kevin Aucoin, the greatest makeup artist of all time,

Birografika Bori

the legend that my creative work is still the most inspired from. His lifelong

Published in Slovenia in 2009 by: Contact:

work and attitude towards faces set my biggest example. Under his influence

Hisa lepote 2009

I have not only met my creative abilities, but have also discovered that making up the faces in artistic way fills me with happiness.

Hisa lepote Zaloska 27, 1000 Ljubljana SLOVENIA www.hisalepote.si info@hisalepote.si +386 (0) 41 742 021

Needs The greatest initiative to write this guide for making up comes from my knowledge about the needs of modern women who, in a process of developing their relationship with making up, need explanations and illustrations about the methods of making up, which make them more successful at their daily practice of making up. Therefore, this work is dedicated to You, a modern woman. I have designed

CIP - Kataložni zapis o publikaciji Narodna in univerzitetna knjižnica, Ljubljana

this first book of mine from the series of Discover your own style in ways to be Your guide in the search of more creative ways of making up, hoping to help

687.553.2

You find answers to Your questions in order to further benefit in discovering

BAČKAI, Emeše Make up : ličenje za vsakogar / Emeše Bačkai. Ljubljana : Hiša lepote, 2009 ISBN 978-961-269-030-4 244138496

and highlighting Your own beauty and femininity.

ODKRIJ S V O J S T I L

Aim and purpose

Copyright: Hisa lepote C

detecting new directions was not even my desire, instead I wanted a more

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or utilized, in any form or any means, elestronic or mechanical, witjout prior premission in writing from the publisher.

makeup rules. For an easier understanding and better-quality illustration of

There has already been much written about making up. Various manuals, books and articles help women get acquainted with current makeup guidelines, and with my book I probably will not reveal much new or sensational. And organized and thoughtful demonstration of the most useful knowledge and aesthetic meaning of making up, I have backed up my text with many image examples.


emese backai Allow me to introduce myself. By occupation I’m an academic musician. For seven years I was a member of the Slovenian Philharmonic Orchestra, in which I played cello. I started devoting my time to doing makeup in parallel with the music. But possibilities of artistic expression on the faces have enraptured me so strongly, that later I made the career shift.

make up

for everyone Practical make up advice for perfect look in every ocassion

My makeup expertise has been acquired in Budapest, where I discovered many opportunities to develop my own makeup skills. In 1999, I have acquired expertise in beauty makeup, and colour consulting and styling, in the school of the top model Lynn de Gara - Artistic International. My knowledge of fashion and photographic makeup was perfected by the studies at FaceOn Makeup Academy in Budapest, headed by top makeup artist GyĂśngyi KILIN, the Hungarian representative of the world-famous school for makeup Christine Valmy from New York. In Slovenia and abroad, I work as a consultant, stylist, beauty manager, and as lecturer and leader of my own copyrighted makeup courses Facies. With my approach Discover your own style, I offer women the opportunity and help to build a more coherent and neat image. Especially, I deal with advising on how to makeup for everyday, business and special occasions. In Makeup Pro Academy, I transmit my practical experience in the field of professional makeup to new generations with advanced ideas and methods.

Hisa lepote 2009


Table of contens

Introduction

Emese Backai

make up

for everyone

1 2 3 4 5

12

Preparation 1. chapter:

Know your needs

14

2. chapter:

Know your face

18

3. chapter:

Know materials and tools

20

4. chapter:

Prepare the skin for makeup

32

1. chapter:

Your true needs

38

2. chapter:

Basic makeup accessories

42

3. chapter:

Basic makeup steps

50

4. chapter:

Creative makeup

62

Bases

Beauty makeup 1. chapter:

Makeup at a young age

74

2. chapter:

Daily makeup

76

3. chapter:

Business makeup

88

4. chapter:

Evening makeup

94

Corrective makeup 1. chapter:

Special/Personal facial needs

118

2. chapter:

Corrective makeup techniques

120

3. chapter:

Makeover – makeup for everyone

128

Special occasions 1. chapter:

Special occasion makeup

160

2. chapter:

Wedding makeup

162

3. chapter:

Facial styling

172

The Conclusion text

190


Make up for everyone Knowledge and confidence are key to the neat image - it is important to be aware of what you are, who you are, how you are, and to trust more and more to your knowledge and develop an inner desire for daily neatness and beauty. Making up can be experienced in very different ways. Makeup can make your face prettier; You can take it as a hobby, or as a relaxation and fun. It may be a form of artistic expression, while creating original effects with makeup on your face and your body. As there are various reasons why one would dedicate their time to makeup, I suggest that You first become clear of why You want to use makeup, and only afterwards You can reasonably judge, in which direction You want Your skills to be developed. It depends only upon Your ambition, whether You use makeup for Your own needs or You will also develop its capacity for making up the others. Whatever may the reasons for making up be based upon, it is important for You to get ready for it. Namely, as with all other things, makeup also requires certain rules and regulations, special products and various styles, resulting from certain logic and planning. Expected results

introduction

In this book, I will help You find these rules and regulations of aesthetic facial design, and I will presented basic makeup styles and facial styling for special occasions. Based on my advice and illustrated techniques, You will know how to prepare Your skin for makeup, how to choose the appropriate products for facial treatment and makeup, You will be able to recognize easily Your special and personal needs of Your face, and know how to appropriately emphasize them with makeup. In addition, You will be assisted at developing the ability to facilitate the selection of the colours which suit You the most. The presented methods of making up will help You to better understand the rules of optical design and emphasizing the face, and also to harmonize Your makeup style with the needs of Your own body and life concerns. And at last, You will be able to feel happiness at expressing and emphasizing Your beauty according to Your own potentials and needs.


1. chapter

know your needs

Your attitude towards makeup

Persistence and neutral natural look In practice, I always follow rational order; prior to any makeup or advising I talk to the customer. I name this part as reconciliation of wishes with possibilities; this is my way of discovering the individual's wishes or likings, and where they originate from. Before You start using makeup, I suggest You to clarify Your attitude towards makeup. First, I suggest You to accept the fact that the face with makeup will make Your appearance act in a more coordinative and neat manner. Afterwards, try to become equal to Your emphasized external appearance also from the inner level. What does this mean? You need to realize that without proper inner order or at least willful radiation of self-conscious and courage, Your external appearance, together with Your makeup, is only a mask. To facilitate understanding, I suggest that at the first stage of development, which I call a period of purification and raising the awareness of needs, You get to know Your attitude towards makeup. In the second stage of development You should be devoted to identifying the characteristics of Your face. Based upon that, You can define Your real needs for harmony of internal and external neatness, which is a real beauty. When You sense the essence and importance of Your beauty, You can reasonably decide about what, why and how much time are You willing to invest in learning and training the most appropriate makeup techniques.

When giving my first advice, I ask a client about their preferences or what kind of makeup do they favour. Most of the times the given answer is: the most possibly natural and persistent.

Most of the women are attracted by the images and the currently popular looks they get acquainted with in various magazines and television shows. The power and purpose of these advertisements is to have an influence on emotions, and to provoke a feeling of false needs. What does that mean?

My additional questions relate to their methods of making up, what kind of makeup is used, and how, and with what the makeup is applied. In this way, I get a basic idea of how a particular person thinks about makeup and where do their problems originate from. At the end I always come to the same conclusion: because of ignorance and disrespect of basic makeup rules, the majority of women omit or skip certain steps, what in technical terms leads to inappropriate and inadequate implementing of a procedure. Why does that happen?

If You make an emotional connection with a particular external appearance, You will want to have a similar appearance as well. Unconsciously, You feel the need to find and buy makeup, which that particular external appearance was made by, believing that the power is hidden within the use of the magical makeup. However, there is no magical makeup! There is only one useful type of makeup for You: the one that suits You. Instead of letting be led by various external style influences, rather find the answers within Your genuine needs. And before You decide to purchase makeup, firstly make sure whether the makeup suits You and Your face, and consider, whether it is needed at first place and why it is needed for.

Get ready Before you begin to follow my recommendations for makeup, firstly thoroughly clarify Your relationship with the makeup, so that You go through the appropriate mental preparation and ideas. For easier clarification, try to answer Yourself the following fundamental questions about makeup:

1. Why do You want to use makeup? 2. Try to identify the features and imperfections of Your face. Do You think that something is wrong with your natural (with no use of makeup) look?

Reasons – why do we use makeup

3. If that is the case, what disturbs You on Your face? 4. Do You want to use makeup in daily life and are particularly interested in the techniques of

You should also consider whether Your desire to change the appearance is reasonable: is it arisen from your reasonable needs, or is it merely a wish and a result of emotional way of perception of your own appearance. Reasons - why there is a desire to change appearance may be of various kinds. The visible reasons, including various skin problems, facial asymmetry, unexpressed facial features, signs of aging and the like are easily identifiable. Reasons and consequences, arising from mentality and character, may be more concealed. These are dissatisfaction with oneself and a strong desire to be different or to be attractive (especially during adolescence), fear of rejection and a sense of exposure (in business), or fear of aging and the loss of a partner (at a ripe old age). In these cases there are emotional reasons, which are far from being reasonable starting point for changing the appearance. Resulting from underlying emotional needs of mentality, they are not reflected in the form of conscious ambitions, but as desires. To coordinate internal and external beauty, makeup alone is insufficient. Instead, everybody should find their personal way of enhancing their internal strength and for the transformation, or even the transformation of their own character, on which I have devoted some of the final words in this book for You.

But as long as Your desire is primarily, or even only, aimed at a more neat appearance, I recommend You to explore particularly those ways of making up that help You express Your own style, and highlight virtues of Your character. You should realize that makeup could actually act as kind of clothing for your face, which can be used as a tool for more or less short-term or temporary disguise of Your character defects or imperfections. But if You still have the feeling that makeup makes Your face acting unnaturally, or prevents Your skin from “breathing”, the possibility of trying out modern techniques of applying makeup and using the kind of makeup which enables you to reach superior effect of natural appearance still remains. Also consider whether it is really in Your own favor and of the advantage to show your natural face without makeup to everyone at every opportunity, or it is more reasonably to prevent the public to see any possible aesthetic irregularities of your face. Feeling of not wearing makeup on Your face could be easily developed into a similar sense of nakedness, as if not wearing appropriate clothing or not covering those parts of Your body, which should be hidden from view of others due to the basic principles of aesthetics and proper behavior.

daily-business makeup, or do You want to develop Your own skills for makeup, suitable for special occasions? 5. How much time and effort are You willing to invest in it? 6. Is Your makeup suitable? 7. Do You want to be qualified only for making up Your own face or also the faces of other people?

To facilitate planning, try to obtain answers to key questions in the subsequent chapters: 1. What styles of makeup do You »like« and which of these are suitable to Your face? 2. What do You need in order to build the selected makeup style? 3. Which opportunities will the chosen makeup style be appropriate for? 4. Do you want to learn about makeup techniques by Yourself or with a help of an expert?


chapter 1

your real needs Catalog sales

A reasonable choice of makeup is affected by various factors, which women ignore or are often insufficiently aware of. When shopping for makeup, they should take into account characteristics, arising from the real needs of each individual. Your true needs Anything that is offered by fashion trends, does not suit you. This is especially true when buying makeup. The diverse availability of products on a cosmetic market enables You to purchase almost any type of makeup, but because the offer is too extensive and advertising messages are too powerful, You are most likely bothered by doubts of what is actually suitable to You. Before You decide to follow the latest fashion trends or any ideal of beauty, think through and clarify what principles should You choose Your makeup upon.

Most women are insufficiently aware of their needs that is why their relation with making up their face is not yet clearly delineated. Makeup is still associated with various fashion trends, or with makeup, chosen under emotional influence or based on the principle of what they like, rather than on the principle, what is truly suitable to them. Since the effects generally do not give enough satisfaction, their makeup remains incomplete, inconsistent or inadequate, despite numerous attempts.

In order to help You make a more reasonable choice of makeup and choose a set of Your basic makeup tools, I will try to describe the most general shopping habits of most of the today's makeup users, in order to help you discover Your true needs on the basis of which You could more usefully be able to choose Your makeup.

Brand name reputation or the price should not suppose to be crucial factors in choosing the makeup, but rather Your satisfaction with the final effect, visible on your face.

A special way of selling cosmetics is used by companies that offer their products in various catalogs and sell them directly through the online stores or through their distributors and beauty consultants. This form of sales has been strongly enforced in recent years due to the convenience and attractive prices, therefore many women decide to purchase makeup via catalogs. To facilitate the selection, the catalogs contain the colour palettes of individual makeup, which, thanks to the printing quality, quite accurately match the original shades of makeup. In addition to pictures in »professional advice« section, they also contain various descriptions that accurately describe ways of the products’ use. All this is in order to facilitate selection. However, the purchase of cosmetics through a catalog is still rather complex and often risky task, which encourages the companies to enable the possibility of direct testing of the products at their headquarters or local offices. If You want to test products at home, You can invite a representative or a qualified beauty consultant in Your home. In recent years, product presentations or beauty meetings in the domestic circles have become extremely popular. The users are able to test the products in a very relaxed atmosphere and in the company of their friends. Makeup artists

Shopping habits Coordination of corresponding shades and compatible makeup is very difficult that is why less experienced buyers of makeup are in urgent need of professional help. In a classic sale, customer advising is often impossible, because in the majority of shops and drugstores You will probably be left to yourself, or to the sellers with insufficient experience and without appropriate expertise to serve with proper advise.

Anja Vodopivec ( foto: Miha Peroša )

Specialized drugstores In specialized drugstores and perfumeries the level of professional assistance is slightly higher because an expert or makeup artist is often present. Such professionals normally emphasize current fashion trends of the brand name which hired them for this work. If you decide to test the latest fashion trends in makeup corner, a quick makeup will be given to You and You will also be briefly taught about the use of presented makeup. Whether Your true needs are taken into account or not, You will have to assess yourself. If this makeup procedure is aimed towards the promotion and sale of currently interesting products, this kind of advice still does not give you sufficient ability to correctly apply the presented makeup.

The most personalized form of makeup purchase You can surely get from the expert makeup artists, whose activity of doing the makeup has been extended to consultancy work. They do not only sell the makeup products, but also give instructions about makeup techniques in various consulting and makeup courses. In this way, You can get trained in the greatest extent about proper application of makeup. The purpose of educational and mentoring approach is also that on the basis of analysis You at first discover Your true needs (diagnostics), and that the expert helps You to chose suitable makeup style and appropriate products. The most important thing is that he qualifies You for doing Your own facial makeup. The selection and purchase of makeup is in this case a natural consequence of the most high-quality approach. If You decide to visit a makeup artist, You will get the most from Your money: technical assistance at the highest level, the assistance in selection of makeup, and practical guidance on the proper application of makeup. In this way, Your true needs will be taken into account and Your requirements will have been met at the highest level. It is important to be aware of the fact that not everyone, who is a makeup artist and deals with consulting or runs the courses, is also qualified for high-quality consultancy work. Before the visit You should therefore examine, whether the offered form of advice, course or workshop is based on real practical product testing and on developing of practical makeup skills, or it is only an attempt to promote sales of a particular brand, or only a »presentation« of makeup steps in front of a small or a large group of visitors.

Beauty salons Sale of cosmetic products is offered by various beauty salons, where in addition of makeup service the customers can also purchase the makeup products. In this way, Your beauty salon or hairdressing studio will offer You to purchase basic makeup, which is used and promoted in the salons. If the staff is also qualified for facial makeup, then You might as well be given professional advice. But at the same time You should be aware that not everyone who works in a beauty salon is necessarily properly trained for facial makeup. In the first place You should check the staffs expertise. If You manage to find trained specialists, make an arrangement before Your purchase for advising about makeup and testing the products. From previously described methods of sale of cosmetic products, try to select the form which is the most appropriate for You and will meet Your needs at the highest possible level. Then, on the basis of Your positive experience, evolve and consolidate Your habits, connected with purchase and the use of makeup. Irrespective of the form of purchase, You decide to choose, be aware that You have to take into account Your true needs, arising from Your facial structure, Your skin undertone, intended purpose of makeup style, suitable to You, and ultimately from Your lifestyle. Otherwise, You will have only temporary results, which will make You dissatisfied and You will often change makeup types and a brand name. In the search of appropriate makeup and advice on its use, You should at first clarify the basis, and with the help of a qualified expert discover Your true needs. In this way, You will be able to choose what You need from what is being on offer, and thus enable Your personal needs to be satisfied.


chapter 5

creative makeup

Neat and attractive at every opportunity

In order to build effective and coherent external image, You have to take into account Your physical characteristics. With the use of facial makeup and proper dressing style, You should highlight Your beauty in accordance with Your character and lifestyle. During the training for more creative ways of doing the makeup, try to create different effects on the face. With different makeup styles You will be able to wear the makeup, appropriate for any occasion - daily and special. To make better understanding of these makeup effects, I will make You acquainted with many makeup styles for different occasions on the following pages.

Purpose of doing the makeup Even the image, perfected with the smallest details, can fail if it is not suitable for a particular person, environment, society, or an event. How to adapt makeup style to different opportunities, I will illustrate with the three images of Milena. On the following pages, You can follow and watch different makeup styles on the same face, adjusted according to the purpose. With three images of the same person I will illustrate key features and differences among the makeup styles for everyday, business and special occasions.

1

1. Image: Makeup for free time In her free time, Milena usually wears jeans with colorful shirts and lets her hair untied. Such image needs a neutral makeup style; she needs very little makeup in soft, warm tones, which can softly highlight her facial lines. With her makeup for free time I used a liquid foundation in beige tone, which perfectly suits her natural colour. With makeup in warm neutral tones, I shaded her eyelids and gently highlighted her eyes. With lipstick in light brown tones, I added a softness to her face which makes it more highlighted and attractive, but still very natural.


chapter 5

creative makeup 2. Image

Business occasions A completely different approach to dressing is required in business environment, where our appearance works as the part of a communicative process. What kind of makeup is appropriate at Your workplace, You should consider Yourself, but You have to realize that Your makeup style must on the one hand be consistent with Your entire business image, and on the other with the clothing practice of Your working environment.

2

Makeup for business occasions should be more outstanding, and particularly created with greater contrasts (opposites). ÂťColourlessnessÂŤ and inexpressiveness of the face can in many cases be enriched with a stronger lipstick in reddish tones. In business image, it is at most importance that, in accordance with good business practice, You take into account the rules of hairstyle, which should be tied in an elegant tuft or braid.

Uniformed image in business communities requires the wearing of clothing in shades and cuts, where highly feminine image goes behind the more restrained and formal appearance.

Milena works at HIT Casino in Nova Gorica. Even though she works at the place, where guests come to entertain themselves, her business status requires her to be in style and elegant. When she is required to be more reserved, she may be dressed in business suits in neutral colours (dark blue, gray, brown) and accordingly adjust her makeup to more restrained and uniformed image. However, under the circumstances in which she communicates with customers, mostly being guests from abroad, she is allowed more, and her more prominent feminine image can also be expressed in a less formal business style.


chapter 5

creative makeup 3. Image

Special occasions By emphasizing Your beauty, You do not only express respect towards Yourself, but also to those whom You want to make happy with your carefully constructed look. Therefore always be willing to invest some effort and money in designing and building of Your image for special occasions. For this purpose, buy Yourself some special clothes and makeup, which will help You to highlight and express the uniqueness of Your appearance. Your makeup for special occasions must vary from Your makeup for everyday or business occasions. To make something more out of Your face for special occasions, even the makeup style must be more daring, special and noteworthy. If You are sociably active and happy to dress up for special occasions, do not limit Your development in order to expertise only in the techniques of daily-business makeup, but also develop Your skills of caring and shaping the face in the field of evening makeup and makeup with special effects.

3

Make up fro special occasions Your uniqueness can be also expressed by the makeup, which can help You with adapting Yourself to a wide variety of events, where a rather enhanced and feminine image is desired. Your makeup for special occasions must be made in large contrasts (opposites) and with the makeup with special effects. If You shade Your eyelids with shiny and even coloured makeup, and enhanced tones, such as Paris blue, purple, emerald green or turquoise, and if you accordingly enhance Your lips, You may give the face its charm and special splendour.


3

beauty makeup Makeup at a young age Daily makeup Business makeup Evening makeup In previous chapters I helped You to raise the awareness of Your needs in terms of Your facial makeup, but in the following pages I will teach You about the different makeup styles for all kinds of occasions. Among them You will easily find the ones that You especially like and would therefore want to be able to do them Yourself.

LĂŠna VarjĂş ( foto: Sylvia S. Kollar )


chapter 1

daily makeup

Makeup at a young age The need and desire for the makeup on a face may occur at a young age. The desire of girls to be utmost similar to adults leads to various researches, through which they can become accustomed to different roles. One of the most charming games is dressing in mother's clothes and doing the makeup. If You are one of those who took mother’s lipstick and secretly did the makeup, You most probably remember the feeling of being young, and when You were able to become accustomed to the role of being a real woman for a few moments. Admit that You greatly enjoyed playing that role. These innocent simple games were actually Your most original attempts to help You get to the truth, sensing Yourself and the essence of Your beauty, and discovering the secret, where the beauty is coming from. Whatever happened afterwards had a strong influence over Your development and Your later forms of expressing the femininity. If You lived in an environment in which the emphasized feminine image was unknown and Your attempts were suppressed by contemptuous and frightened looks from the adults, You felt the consequences of such influence even in later years. If You were assisted by Your parents or teachers, who supported You with their education in Your beauty researches and rituals, they have strongly influenced the development of Your sense of femininity, which is supposed to be of essential meaning for every woman, becoming an adult. In my opinion, we should praise any initiative that encourages adolescent girls to start caring for their faces and doing the makeup. All this is in order to courageously explore various ways of expressing beauty during the period, when the awareness of femininity is raising, as well as when on the basis of responses from the environment they gain valuable experience on the evaluation of a female beauty. Based on these experiences, whether positive-encouraging or negative-suppressing, every woman develops her own attitude towards herself and her environment. When an individual is trying to express herself, emphasizing of the external beauty gets an important role.

It is also worth to consider, whether various extremes in the later period of adolescence in the form of overor under-expressed image are not maybe due to unclarified thoughts and expression of confusion, and clear messages about the doubts and difficulties in the perception of femininity? Instead of teenage girls being able to entrust us openly with their feelings about their changing appearance, their thoughts are confused and they often say, »They are all so beautiful and I’m so ugly, no wonder that nobody wants to look at me!« Or, »How much makeup, but I do not know how to use it!« In extreme cases they even say, »Let it all go to the devil, I will pierce my nose, and then they will see!« In my opinion it is very natural if girls begin to practice doing the makeup already at the age of 12. Problems arise only if they do not have adequate makeup for their exploring, and if the one, they do have, is used incorrectly. Before they even start using makeup, I advise them to visit some of the high-quality cosmetic or advisory salons, where they are given advice about the appropriate care of their skin. An expert would recommend them the appropriate products and explain their methods of use. Only when young girls learn to properly prepare and care for the skin, they can start using the makeup.

I have prepared a few practical tips for doing the makeup later in this chapter. However, if You need practical assistance in training the techniques described, You can visit an expert, the makeup artist, who will show You the techniques for the use of makeup on Your face in greater details.


3 beauty

makeup

chapter 2

business makeup The importance of business style The power of business style Your business makeup

If You want your appearance to emphasize Your social or business situation, You need to take it as a part of communication with others.


chapter 3

business makeup

The importance of business style Completely different approach to being properly dressed up is required by Your job, where Your appearance needs to be taken as a part of communication with others. What kind of makeup is appropriate at Your workplace, You should consider Yourself, but You have to realize that Your makeup style has to complement Your business image, and should be highlighted and particularly made in greater contrasts.

The power of business style Your external appearance in the business community strongly influences the outcome of Your business conversations. Non-verbal form of communication can support the content of Your message and can express convincing reliance not only in You, but also in Your working environment. In order to provide not only knowledge and expertise, but also relevant visible messages about Your orderly way of thinking and refinement with Your stylishness at Your business position, You need to use the colours, clothing and makeup style, which may help You to reach Your goal. Well-chosen connection between the internal radiation (satisfaction and selfesteem) and external appearance (neatness) is reflected in the consistent image that radiates power and raises a sense of confidence in the observer or interlocutor.

Your business image must firstly be adjusted to Your professional position and secondly to Your characteristic and physical features. Your way of expressing with Your appearance actually expresses who You are, what You are and how You are in the business world, but also determines Your value and significance.

It is of capital importance that aesthetics and natural beauty are not the only essential parts of a business appearance. The image must be adjusted to business and dressing code of a particular working environment. But on the other hand, it is completely unacceptable to underestimate the appearance of women, whose external appearance should be an essential part of everyday professional communication and activity: commercialists, shop assistants, directors, bank and public officials, agents, clerks and also those, working in the field of public performance and public relations. In short all those, who have a direct contact with customers and employees, or present their business or some economic activity.


3. chapter

business makeup

In accordance with the characteristics of women’s neatness at their work, You can make more feminine and slightly soften the severe image in the uniform with a special method of the facial makeup. You can use interesting colour combinations and elegant fashion accessories (jewelry, watch, phone, scarves, etc.), as well as neutrally polished and manicured nails. “Colourlessness« and neutrality of the face can be enriched with stronger lipstick in reddish shades. With reasonably chosen and considerably styled image You will more easily function in a convincing way because of Your stylish, reputable and highlighted attractiveness.

Congruity of business makeup Business makeup, appropriate for a job with frequent contacts with clients, must be carefully constructed, but not too strictly. Specificity of radiation of such image may not provoke a sense of inferiority in the dialogue partner, but instead respect and trust. Therefore, the correct selection of the appropriate colour is of major importance. While the considerably chosen image fully radiates the power in high business circles, where the external image is connected with more strict and darker colors, the external image, appropriate for managers, may at the same time functi-

on too strictly in the workplace with frequent contacts with customers and end users. In business makeup You should avoid details that can turn discussion partner’s and observer’s focus of attention to Your makeup instead of Your face. Your reasonable facial makeup must act harmoniously with no outstanding details. It is important that You master everyday facial care and makeup. You will be increasingly expected to be able to do Your own facial makeup for various business opportunities. Styling

and facial makeup for special public appearances or occasions can on the other hand still be left to Your personal stylist, hairdresser or makeup artist. My advice and my approach on the basis of illustrated examples and instructions on the following pages of the book enable You to start consistently, persistently, courageously and creatively experimenting and using the presented techniques on Your won. But, if You are unsuccessful at Your work, it is best to decide for training in the form of professionally guided workshops.

Characteristics of business makeup The characteristics of methods for business makeup are derived from the previously described way of perceptivity of neatness in the business world. They can be taken into account at almost any way of makeup, and they are particularly applicable to do the makeup for business purposes. Makeup for business opportunities requires the following starting-points: •

A neutral and retained, unobtrusive makeup style

Use of corrective-formative makeup techniques

Persistence of appearance

Accurately performed makeup steps

Use of makeup in neutral mat shades without special effects


chapter 1

special personal facieal needs

Corrective makeup People are very different, each of us has his own personal expression, which should be respected. With the knowledge of formative techniques You can make the face prettier, and optically draw it near to the ideal proportions and highlight its natural beauty. In this chapter, I will show You those formative techniques and the optical change of the face, which makes it possible to achieve greater symmetry of the face. The face is the one that best reflects the personality. That is why a method of doing Your makeup should be very personal.

My explanations in this chapter enable You to start (in case You want to discover and highlight Your natural beauty with makeup) with reasonable use of presented techniques as consistently, persistently, courageously and creatively as possible testing gained knowledge and skills on Your own face. This is important, because in this way You can change Your aesthetic perception of neatness and raise it to a higher level. It is important to realize that the natural beauty of Your face is not the only important matter, but also a choice of such makeup, which will make Your face look better in the most natural way and will give a purpose to Your overall appearance. From this point of view, discovering of Your needs has a special meaning.

In this part of the book I present You corrective makeup techniques on different faces, I examined for their special and personal needs, which gave me ideas and solutions for the most suitable way of reasonable shaping of the face. My advice on corrective makeup techniques is designed for all women, but particularly those who take their faces as a main part of everyday professional communication and activity: saleswomen, fashion models, secretaries, actresses, singers and other artists, directors, journalists and public officials. In short all those, working in the field of public performance and public relations, who are in the urgent need of being skilled at corrective facial makeup.

Balancing of the face

Special personal facieal needs Every face has its own characteristics, which should firstly be discovered and later during a process of makeup also be taken into account. With the use of various analyses it is possible to find basic information, which points the attention to the specificity of face and which - at forming - offers ideas and solutions for each face in its own unique way. The detection of Your facial features, such as skin colour, facial shape, eyebrows, eyes, nose and lips, will offer You some ideas for the changes. The analyses and discoveries can help You to develop a good sense of symmetry. In this way, Your face can the most originally guide You in formatting and at the same time call Your attention to the fact, where may be the potential weaknesses and which parts of Your face need a change. By detecting and taking into account the special and personal needs of Your face, You will reach the reasonableness of the the change. This means that despite using of makeup, Your face will still seem natural. Such modified (with proper makeup) face never acts as a mask.

Meaningful changes on the face are always accompanied by the effect of beautification. To do the makeup means to beautify the face, which is the most easily achieved with discovering and highlighting of Your natural facial beauty. If you still feel that Your face with makeup acts too unnaturally, or that the makeup prevents Your skin from »breathing«, I advise You to test some of the more modern techniques of applying makeup, together with those products which enable You to achieve superior effect of the very natural look. Additionally, it would be good if You reconsidered the appropriateness of showing Your natural look at every opportunity, even if that would not be of an advantage to Your appearance. Feeling of not wearing makeup on Your face could be easily developed into a similar sense of nakedness, as if not wearing appropriate clothing or not covering those parts of Your body, which You want to be hidden from the view of others.

Next to the beautifying, makeup also has the improving (corrective) purpose. With a few simple techniques and optically changed lines and shadows, You can make Your face look more symmetric. Before You start putting makeup on Your face, first do an analysis and discover Your facial features. The makeup style that you like should not be decisive in choosing the most appropriate techniques. The choice should be made with a help of those features of Your face, which are particularly prominent; they are used as starting points in the selection of the most appropriate makeup style for the shape of Your face, eyebrows, eyes and lips.

When the others see Your face, their look is automatically and unintentionally drawn by the strongest feature, simply because this is the first thing on Your face that catches their attention. However, the parts of the face with a proper makeup may redirect attention of the observer to see the entire face, rather than focusing on just one part. We say that reasonable formative makeup techniques »open the face«.

Prominent facial features such as large or protruding eyes, prominent chin and big nose, which stand out, often act as undesirable because they ruin the balance of the face. Such prominent feature can be made less visible or less inconvenient with another prominent move in order to optically balance the face.

In this way, the highlighted beauty of Your eyes will make Your other facial features less outstanding. But stronger eyelids makeup can make Your entire face look too artificial, and if Your eyes naturally stand out, this move will make the imbalance of the face even more visible. In order to create a more balanced facial image with the makeup, try to harmonize the makeup of Your eyes with characteristics of the other features of Your face: the nose, eyebrows and lips.

The appropriate form of shading and with correct shape of Your eyebrows You will probably manage to shift attention to the eyes (an eye is the most important natural facial expression!).

Find the right balance There is no bad facial feature; there is only a wrong way of highlighting certain features. In order to create the greatest possible balance in the face, first try to determine what features of Your face really need corrections or changes, then follow my instructions for corrective makeup techniques for a certain feature of the face. If Your face has the features, which are all of approximately the same size and no single feature stands out, then You can try out a wide range of makeup styles from the previous chapters. But if some of Your facial features stand out too much or too less, You need to achieve the balance and visible changes. To be able to do that, You need to skill Yourself in the corrective makeup techniques. Below I will explain those formative makeup techniques, which can help You become skilled in shaping and highlighting different features of Your face.


chapter 3

Makeovers - makeup for everyone Makeover No.8 Makeup techniques of extending the round eyes Nuša is my accountant. Every time I see her, the beauty of her eyes makes me happy. Since she does not know how to skillfully make them more visible, I offered her the opportunity to discover and learn to highlight the beauty richness of her face with my help.

Ana Nusa Sterle, 44 years

When I was doing the makeup of her face, her eyes got my maximum attention. Because of their somewhat too distinctive roundness, I had to use corrective makeup techniques. The outstanding roundness of the eyes was optically reduced by extending the dark lines towards the outside parts near her eyelashes. First, I rimmed lower lids, then the upper. The line on the upper lids was a bit expanded with a black shade, so that the line was gradually increasing from the center of the eyelids towards the outside eye corner.

Dark lines at the same time highlight the outstanding and contrasting features of her face, which makes Nuša’s dark colour of her clothing more harmonized with her eyes. Dark lines around the eyes also fit a darker hair color, and due to the combined effect, her eyes are shinier. For shading the eyelids, I used makeup techniques of deeper-lying eyes with emphasis on optical extension of eyes.

Nuša’s first image in black is an elegant, slightly more reserved evening look, which highlights the sensitivity of her face. Such image is suitable for strongly highlighted lips in bordeaux red shades. The second image in bordeaux red points out Nuša’s extremely beautiful and feminine facial features, which make the facial expression get a more distinctive emphasis of her character. This is an extremely smart colour choice for business opportunities, when Nuša has to radiate the power. In her third image in a bright turquoise green, the colours blend with her face, which appears to be relaxed and therefore even more natural.


makeup for special ocassion Sometimes it happens that Your image must be adjusted and harmonized with the ceremony event. Weddings, proms, confirmations, various events, performances and award ceremonies, and other public duties require the perfection and stability of all-day appearance. Nastopanje

The reasons for the fears

When You are getting ready for a special event, this is always a special holiday for Your soul. By emphasizing Your beauty You do not only express respect to Yourself, but also to those whom You want to grace with Your presence and with Your carefully constructed look. But even if You are looking forward to the event with a feeling of pleasant excitement, this also triggers feelings of fear and concern. Why does this happen? The fear of Your festively emphasized and unusual image comes from the fact that You are going to stand out with Your changed image and You will be observed, assessed and possibly given some remarks about Your appearance.

Your festive image must always be adjusted to the festive environment and adapted to the event. For events taking place throughout the day, gentle and somewhat softer effects are sufficient, but for festive dinners and performances on stage You need a more glamorous look with more outstanding effects, with special materials and contrasting makeup. Finding the right measure is most of the time Your most basic task while creating Your image for special occasions, as even the detailed image or clothing will be wrong if You wear it at the wrong time or if You stand out too much or too less in it.

Public performances may either attract You or not. It depends in what extents are You willing to accept Your body and Your face, and how much You are used to performing. Being a woman means to enjoy Your exceptional beauty. This does not only refer to the external appearance. I tend to understand beauty as a whole in its all dimensions. This is why I strive to make an example and help with my work and life to all those who seek a connection between the power of inner beauty (spiritual level) and external emphasized beauty (physical level).

Your makeup for special occasions Your makeup for special occasions must differ from Your way of doing the makeup in everyday or business environments. To make something more from Your face for special occasions, Your makeup style should be more unusual, daring and noteworthy. If You are sociably active and like to dress up even for everyday events, I suggest that Your development is not limited to acquiring the techniques of everydaybusiness makeup, but You should also develop Your skills in the field of self-dependent evening makeup and makeup with special effects. It is important to have such clothing which does not only fit Your figure, but also Your makeup. Only if the clothing is adjusted to Your makeup style, You can entirely highlight the specificity of Your appearance.

Your sense of designing enables You to select the appropriate style and if You are not talented enough in this field, it may happen You choose a completely false styling approach. However, if Your relation to Your more emphasized or different image is not sufficiently designed, or if the lack of specific events did not offer You enough opportunities to train designing techniques, You will also most likely fail at doing Your facial makeup. In this case, I advise You to leave the styling for special performances and occasions to the stylist, hairdresser and makeup artist in accordance with Your own judgment.


chapter 2

Face poetica - facial makeup in an imaginative style

Facial styling - Face poetica This part of my presentation of the various possibilities for developing and transforming the face should be understood at a slightly higher level. This level is more easily understood to all those who have opted for the theater or acting profession. On special occasions, some individual occasionally wants to be someone else, to become accustomed to something that is hidden deeply in the subconsciousness, as a me-

In the last chapter I present You my creative efforts in the field of facial styling for various expressional opportunities, where You may find an incentive to make Your the most deeply hidden images. The truth is hidden in Your subconsciousness. As a painter, try to get closer to it and discover expressive abilities, offered by Your face. As You go deeper into Your subconsciousness, the greater is a chance of the success to win the competition for the best mask.

mory of a previous life in a different environment and different era. Carnival atmosphere sometimes finds its place on the various dance parties and festivities which have a special sign on their invitations: masks wanted. In this case, the basic makeup exceeds its everyday and even ceremonial purpose. The face becomes a mask, the creative product of knowledge, imagination and creativity, in short: a work of art.

In next life I will be an actress...

I hade a dream of China...

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I would like to be a dancer...

3. Imagination: Farry tyles I would be a princess...

This approach requires You to surrender to the imagination. In the state without any thought, desire and ambition, Your brain will begin to be led by Your sixth sense - intuition. Your face alone will produce a plan, and will keep informing You what it wants. It may want to be Snow White, the Witch...

4. Imagination: The golden elegance

1. Imagination: Remembering China

2. Imagination: Flamenco style

Facial makeup in an imaginative style

5. Imagination: Diva I like to introduce myself...

6. Imagination: The power of the Night I would like to be a Top-model...


My Book: Make-up for everyone