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HIS&HERS FOOD & DRINK

HIS & HERS’ SUMMER SANCTUARY

NOVA RESTAURANT, HESWALL

H

is & Hers had an intriguing invitation to visit a restaurant that we already knew by reputation (friends rave about it), and discovered Nova, nestled in a leafy byway of Heswall. It’s a beautiful setting, fairy lights winking in the breeze, set amongst miniature conifers and spring flowers: it feels like a sanctuary in a frantic world. Once inside, there’s an air of understated elegance: Regency striped fabric for the seating, with pale wood flooring, and pale walls: original art-work and beautifully carved wooden sculptures are skilfully displayed throughout; and as one of the owners, Jana, stepped forward to greet us, I sensed this was going to be an amazing experience. Moyo and Jana (husband and wife team) have combined their expertise to cook and serve the best of British cuisine. Moyo is the chef, and there’s a sense of being taken on a culinary journey that begins with sourcing only the best of local produce, (the quality of the meat is breathtaking) and using herbs and vegetables, freshly gathered, to work a particular kind of magic. We needed to make a choice between ‘early doors’ (2 courses, £15.00) and ‘à la carte’ menus: our party decided to mix and match,

WORDS: Jean Hill

because the ‘simply grill’ options on ‘à la carte’ were irresistible to one, whilst ‘early doors’ Braised shin of beef was a traditional choice for another. The first treat was minced pork and foie gras canapés; subtle herby flavours to savour. Watercress soup with potato got a rave review and for something so simple to taste so good requires the best of ingredients. Avocado, pink grapefruit, cucumber, radish and buckwheat (beautifully presented) was my choice for starter and it shook my tastebuds to the core. The mains did not disappoint. The Canon of lamb with smoked aubergine was simply the best lamb I’ve ever tasted (locally sourced and beautifully cooked). The succulent char-grilled chicken had a lovely (I’m guessing honey infused) glaze. The Braised shin of beef, creamed shallots, mushroom, spinach with red wine proved to be a compelling reason to return. Herbs are skillfully used to enhance and complement the flavour of the food. It’s a simple plan, but it’s rarely done this well. Only one of us had room for dessert: the sorbet was a beautifully presented burst of colour and taste. It was a memorable evening full of small pleasures.

Bookings: 0151 342 9959 Novarestaurant.co.uk

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