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Explore Vol. 157 · No.3

May 2012



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Catherine O’Neal takes readers on a road tripping adventure through the winding roads of Southern Arizona.

THE ARCHITECTURE OF MARY JANE COLTER Understand the Grand Canyon through the eyes of this fascinating turn of the century architect.

43 ARIZONA ADVENTURES Take advantage of all the great experiences this state has to offer. Pick and choose activities to build a itinerary that suits you.

Photocredit: Alyssa  Santiago









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How to avoid tourist heavy locations and enjoy one of the most beautiful drives America has to offer. Page 23

Get out of your hotel room and spend the night enjoying the best attractions in Pheonix. Page 88

You can’t leave Arizona without stopping by these fashion hotspots. Page 24

Cofounder of guides us through the local favorites for day trips. Page 156

CITY EXPLORATION Arizona is home to several unique cities, each with their own personality. Find which best suits your trip. Page 31




Figuring out the details for a roadtrip can be daunting. Our guide covers everything you’ll want to know, from permits to camping gear. Page 95

Susan Reynolds shares the best spots in each of Arizona’s unique cities. Page 136

The best places to lodge if you’re looking for healthy food, gyms and exercise classes. Page 168



Ever wish you could work at one of the most beautiful places on earth? Find out what a day in the life is like for these Grand Canyon emplyees. Page 144

You’ll need a place to relax after all of the adventures you go on after completing the adventure list. Page 171



When John Wesley Powell and his nine-man crew pushed off from Green River, Wyomind in 1869, they ventured into uncharted territory full of danger. This tale follows them— the first party to survive trip through the Grand Canyon— and recounts one man’s determination to put it on the map. Page 74

Which activities are best for you and your itinerary? Whether it be reaftin, hiking or touring ancient ruins, there is something for you. Page 104

ARIZONA EATS From Mesa to Yuma, we’ve got the dish on where to eat like a local. Page 113

NAVAJO TRADITION Before you take the trip, take a chance to learn about the largest tribe in Arizona and a few of their traditions. Page 151

SMART TRAVELER Where to find the cheapest gas, the most economical lodging and budget-friendly excursions. Page 182

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Photocredit: Natonal  Park  Service

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by Catherine O’Neal

Hey, cowboy:  Beyond  the  ghost  towns  and  desert  roads  of  Arizona,  Catherine  O'Neal   finds  an  unexpected  oasis  of  vintage  trailers,  fusion  cuisine,  and  bohemian  style. Months before I drove to Bisbee, Arizona, I’d heard a lot about the old copper - mining town turned 21st century hideaway for artists, eccentrics, and freewheeling entrepreneurs. Like an unspoiled desert version of Key West, Bisbee was supposedly filled with vigorously restored 19th century buildings and antiques shops. Nestled in the Mule Mountains just seven miles from the Mexican wilderness, it was a sanctuary for the edgy and the adventurous. When I told my father I was headed to this Western bohemia, he assured me I was mistaken. A Florida cattleman who can lasso a calf faster than my cell phone flickers on, my father has a picture of the desert that consists of outlaws and woolly bordellos. His Bisbee adventurers tote rifles, not art canvases. To prove it, he sent me leather - bound books on the frontier, with exuberant notations about the saloons, gold mines, and gunslingers I’d encounter. What made my trip to Arizona

especially appealing to him was that I’d pass through Tombstone, whose motto—The Town Too Tough to Die—summed up his idea of the West precisely. The day before I left, he gave me one of his typical directives: “You’d better take your gun.” I reminded him of the time he tried to outdraw James Arness on Gunsmoke (my dad stood inches from the TV screen, waiting with a Colt .22 Peacemaker in his holster) and ended up shooting himself in the leg. “For the record, I was faster than he was,” he muttered. I didn’t pack a pistol, but I did take my favorite Agnès B. capris. In Tucson, I picked up a rental car and headed east on Interstate 10, with the caramelcolored Rincon Mountains to the north. The hot sun made the road ahead seem to ripple as I began the 90 - mile drive to Bisbee. Catching Route 80, I cruised through the near - ghost towns of Benson and St. David, where donkeys grazed among the soap - tree yuccas. After 14 solitary miles, I came upon the

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Photocredit: Natonal  Park  Service

Nothing was  straight  or  flat.  Even  the  buildings—many  packed  with   colorful  galleries,  cafés,  and  artists’  lofts  tilted  with  the  terrain.

Above The view  from   Route  90.

real — and very unreal — town of Tombstone. A huge headstone with the words HISTORY, HEALTH, AND HOSPITALITY welcomed me to the place where Doc Holliday, Wyatt Earp, and Earp’s brothers Virgil and Morgan gunned down Ike Clanton and the McLaury brothers at the O.K. Corral. Today’s corral is a bit less dramatic, not much more than a diorama with Stetson-hatted mannequins. Determined to come away with something authentic, I stopped at the Bird Cage Theatre, highlighted in one of my father’s books with a poster of “human fly” dance girls suspended by shoe clamps from the ceiling. The 1881 building has the town’s last remaining original bar, an exquisitely carved cherry wood piece with a French cut-glass mirror. The cowboy at the bar invited me to roam the theater, now a museum hidden behind a black partition. I wondered if the Bird, once an ornate playhouse for gambling, dancing, and prostitution, would be just another touristy gift shop festooned with a few historic relics. But when I pulled back the curtain, what I found was a perfectly preserved past: red and green glass chandeliers, gambling tables with ivory poker chips, a jukebox that took only silver dollars. It was as if nothing had been touched for 120 years. Anxious to tell my father about the Bird, I called him on my cell phone

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as I left Tombstone, pressing south on Route 80 toward Bisbee. Less than a minute into the conversation, I lost my signal — and didn’t get it back until I returned to Tucson.

Unusual Beginnings I passed through the Mule Mountain Tunnel and emerged to see the tiny town of Bisbee, population 6,000, with its crooked, skinny streets, copper roofs, and adobe buildings. Around every corner, stone steps snaked up to hillside bungalows (there’s an annual Bisbee Stair Climb the third week of October, in which locals race up and down the town’s 1,043 steps). Nothing was straight or flat. Even the buildings — many packed with colorful galleries, cafés, and artists’ lofts tilted with the terrain. Founded in 1880, Bisbee blossomed into a culture capital of 20,000 after billions of pounds of copper were discovered in the early 1900’s. Bisbee-ites combined their passion for revelry ( 47 saloons and brothels lined an alley called Brewery Gulch) with a zeal for architecture, filling the town with Romanesque mansions and Queen Anne bungalows. After the mines finally dried up in the early 1970’s, the town’s elite abandoned the beautiful old buildings. Word of the cheap architectural and cultural gold mine

Top Row Tombstone,  AZ Middle  Row On  the  Road Bottom  Right Shady  Dell  Hotel  Room

Photocredit: Jessica  Roca

Bottom Left Tombstone,  AZ

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cal rides have been displayed in museums (including the Visionary Art Museum in Baltimore) and have appeared in an HBO documentary.

Strange Town Taking the “cool ride” concept a bit further are antiques dealers Ed Smith and Rita Personett; in 1994, they turned seven vintage travel trailers and a 1947 Chris Craft yacht into the Shady Dell lodge, 3 miles south of Bisbee. Against a backdrop of burly brown buttes, the trailers lined up neatly, silver bullets beneath a hot, still sun. A 1948 Yellow Cab was parked under a mulberry tree, and an iron bed decorated with plastic flowers—the latest folk-art creation by one of the managers—rested on a patch of grass. At the edge of it all was Dot’s Diner, which served biscuits and gravy to locals seated on sparkly pink stools. From Dot’s tiny takeout window, Bobby Vinton’s “Roses Are Red” drifted through the desert air. It was a scene straight out of a David Lynch movie. I had my pick of trailers — a tough choice, since each was glamorously nostalgic, down to the flamingo - crowned martini shakers and rose-colored percolators. Ultimately, I fell for a 1951 Spartan Royal Mansion with a breakfast booth and grape-colored sofa. Settling down on it, I spotted a 1957 leatherette Setchell Carson TV with a VCR and a selection of old movies. I chose my dad’s favorite, The Man Who Shot Liberty Valance, and watched the opening scene—John Wayne being carried away inside a coffin—as the sun flashed off headstones in the cemetery outside my window. Perhaps my vision of the Wild West wasn’t so different from my father’s: here I was, in my chic travel trailer built when he was a teenager, and here was his hero, John Wayne, now chasing bad guys across my living room television screen.

Photocredit: Joe  Vega

spread from Berkeley to Woodstock, and hippies began arriving in their VW vans, buying up property and infusing Bisbee with their own brand of art and attitude, and eclecticism. Today, Bisbee is Arizona’s center for the who’s who of the art scene. I got a glimpse of that offbeat style when I drove by a hulathemed Buick sedan studded with plastic pineapples and painted with palm trees. Later, I learned that the car belonged to gouache artist Kathleen Pearson, who started Bisbee’s “art - car movement” 12 years ago. Pearson’s whimsi-


Day 1

Day 2

Day 3

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Tuscon ↓ Bisbee ↓ Rancho de la osa ↓ Tuscon

TUSCON TO  BISBEE Head east on I-10 to Route 80; then veer southeast to Tombstone. Continue southeast pm Route 80 through the Mule Pass Tunnel to Bisbee.

EXPLORE BISBEE Explore Bisbee and the surrounding Mule Mountains. Drive through downtown to get advice from the locals about the best activities.

DRIVE WEST Take RT 90; turn north on RT 83; head south on RT 82 to Nogales. Go north on I-19 to RT 289; drive west to RT 286; go south to Rancho de La Osa

RETURN TO  TUSCON 72 miles from Rancho. Take Route 286 north to Arivaca Road, which wends east to I-19 and Arivaca Junction. Return north on I-19 to Tucson.

That night, I wished my father were with me when I drove into town for dinner at the High Desert Inn. He would have loved the building — the 1918 county jail that still has prisoners’ names etched on the back walls. What I loved was the campy elegance, the white linen tablecloths, the former cell doors turned into wine racks, and the large, Art Deco-influenced acrylic paintings. But what we would have both loved was the rich and flavorful food: hearty Black Angus filet mignon and chicken paprikash.

in Bisbee. Reed Booth invited me to taste his sweets (the Killer Bee Radical Raspberry Honey Mustard had just taken” a silver medal in Napa Valley’s national mustard competition). In the mid - nineties, he became Bisbee’s official “beehive guy” when millions of killer bees migrated up from Mexico. He now answers emergency calls in his beemobile and makes silky honey butters, mustards, and mead (honey wine) in his clifftop laboratory. I asked Booth why he became a killer - bee guy. “There aren’t many jobs in Bisbee,” he explained. Niche Markets “To live here, you’ve got to find your own cool niche.” Bisbee’s bohemian scene came alive the next day One of Booth’s best friends, known as Electric Dave, on Main Street. Over a glass of pulpy peach lemonfound his in a defunct shopping center on the edge ade at Café Cornucopia, Bisbee’s best lunch hangout, of town. There he single-handedly runs his own I watched residents stroll by in their easy, desert-sun microbrewery; Dave’s Electric Beer lager and OK Ale style: ruffled skirts, turquoise chokers, rectangular are so popular that he can’t keep up with orders, copper glasses. Across from the café, I found a small which come from as far as Phoenix. “There's a lot Africanized-killer-bee honey shop called Made of orders to fill for such a small company.”

Left Sites on  the  road   to  Bisbee’s  town   center

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Photocredit: Jane  Smith

Today, the  Rancho  is  just  as  fashionable  as  when  John  Wayne   and  Margaret  Mitchell  vacationed  there  a  half-century  ago. Above A  classic  Tombstone  saloon Right On  the  Road  to   Sasabe

Later that day, I got back on the road and drove west through the Huachuca Mountains to the border town of Nogales. I’d made an appointment at Holler & Saunders, a private gallery housed in a palatial 30 - room hacienda. It’s the only way to see Ed Holler and Sam Saunders’s extensive collection of art and antiquities; though the owners prefer to be discreet about prices and celebrity patrons, they did allow that the 40-million-year-old fossils in the lobby of the Phoenician, in Scottsdale, came from their collection.




SHADY DELL     Vintage Trailer Park Doubles from $35. 1 Douglas Rd., Bisbee.

CAFE ROKA     Contemporary Italian dishes are served in a 1907 building with embossed tin ceilings and maple floors. Dinner for two $50. 35 Main St., Bisbee.   DOT’S  DINER   Lunch for two $15. 1 Douglas Rd., Bisbee.  

PENTIMENTO Here you’ll find estate-sale antiques, such as 19th-century Red Wing urns and Victorian-era bamboo music cabinets. 69 Main St., Bisbee.

RANCHO DE  LA  OSA   Doubles from $320, including meals. Mile Marker 1. BISBEE  INN Doubles from $180, 88 Main St., Bisbee.

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HOLLER &  SAUNDERS   By appointment only, Saunders St., Nogales.


COWBOY MUSEUM     Come for a kitschy collection of Wild West movie memorabilia and a John Wayne display. Sumner and Fulton Sts. Tombstone.   BIRD  CAGE  THEATER   Open daily 8 - 6. Sixth and Allen Sts. Tombstone.

It was early evening by the time I reached Rancho de la Osa, a 16 - room guest ranch in Buenos Aires National Wildlife Refuge, 60 miles west of Nogales. In 1996, art collectors Richard and Veronica Schultz bought the dilapidated 18th century hacienda and adobe outbuildings and transformed them with vibrant tones of pomegranate and persimmon, adding international furniture: Mexican Mission benches, African mud - cloth cushions. Today, the Rancho is just as fashionable as when John Wayne and Margaret Mitchell vacationed there a half - century ago. At the dinner bell, guests gathered in the dining room for arugula salad with sweet chipotle vinaigrette and warm garlic custard with salsa fresca. The owner and chef, Veronica, draws from local farmers to create Southwestern fusion menus that change daily. After dinner, many of us retreated to a stone-walled terrace, where we sipped a 1997 Edna Valley Chardonnay from Richard’s cellar. I listened to other guests make early-morning horsebackriding plans. My morning ride, however, was 70 miles in the car back to Tucson. As I drove north on Route 286, cows grazed inches from the road, reminding me of my father’s own herds. His West was still here, alive and well. Ô

Photocredit: Natonal  Park  Service

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MARY JANE COLTER written by John Richarson

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Mary Jane  Colter’s  architecture  was—and  still  is—part  of  the  fabric  of   the  Southweast.  Unique  among  her  peers,  she  planned  it  that  way.   One evening last spring, on a long drive from Santa Barbara through the rugged western reaches of the great Southwestern desert to my home in Taos, I stopped at La Posada Hotel in Winslow, Arizona. It’s an unusual oasis of romance on a decayed stretch of Route 66, a relic from the days of railroad travel and touring cars. Designed in 1929 as a hacienda for a rich (and imaginary) Spanish family—the kind that might have lived there in the early 20th century—it’s part hotel and part museum, a large villa full of bright colors, arched entry ways, and handsome antique furniture, with vintage blackand-white photos on the walls and a restaurant that looks out over the old railway station. I went to bed listening to the rumble of trains, and when I left the next morning, I knew I would someday return to this haunting place. La Posada was the brainchild of architect and designer Mary Jane Colter. Something of a cult figure she was employed during the first half of the 20th century by the Fred Harvey Co., which catered to tourists in the Southwest during the railroad age. (“Neatness, cleanliness, and carefully prepared dishes await the traveler who dines at the Santa Fe feeding houses,” reads one turn-of-the-century advertisement. “Mr. Harvey knows what the traveling public wants, and he provides it.”) At the time

Photocredit: Natonal  Park  Service

Bottom The  Phantom   Ranch  which  can   only  be  reached  by   foot,  river  raft  or   mule  ride.

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Colter began her career, architectural styles in the United States were heavily informed by European ideas. She was one of the first architects in America to turn more toward indigenous influences. Colter filled sprawling railroad hotels with the pastel colors of the desert and an often idiosyncratic mix of locally made furniture, native craft work, and the religious imagery of the region’s Native American and Hispanic traditions—vibrant interiors that complemented the subtlety and spaciousness of the external landscape. But she also designed lodges and shops in the Grand Canyon that were spare and simple, made of earth and stone. They offered enough to make travelers comfortable, not enough to distract from the larger Canyon experience. Most of the grand hotels she worked on have been torn down, but there is growing interest in preserving what is left.

Myth and  Legend Colter has been described as a curmudgeon and is reputed to have worn a Stetson, been a heavy drinker, smoked three packs a day, and cursed freely. That image, however romantic, may be apocryphal; little is known about her personal life. I have seen photos of her—in matronly dresses and large hats— that reminded me of my wise and caring grandmother. Colter lived almost 90 years, from her birth in Pennsylvania in 1869 until her death at her home in Santa Fe in 1958, but because she spent her entire career as a Harvey employee, she never had the kind of exposure she would likely have enjoyed had she run her own firm. Several months after my trip through Winslow, I set off one sunny Friday afternoon and followed Highway 68 as it meanders from the Taos mesa southwest through the

Photocredit: Nathan  Wright

Rio Grande gorge, where the river is a glistening ribbon of white water surrounded by rocky hills. After passing through the shopping-mall sprawl of Espanola and the pueblo communities to the south, I dropped off the highway into the old part of Santa Fe and checked into La Fonda Hotel, on the southeastern corner of the plaza. It was one of the first great buildings in the city, a structure both massive and nuanced that occupies an entire block and has been a social institution for artists and travelers since Colter and architect John Gaw Meem expanded it in the mid twenties. Colter’s touches at La Fonda are still present,

but the hotel has changed so much that it’s almost impossible to find her creations on one’s own. Jim Bradbury, the manager, gave me a tour and pointed out some of her efforts. Colter designed the sandcolored frieze above the fireplace on the south side of the dining room and employed a similar pattern around the tops of the doors and two fireplaces in the nearby Santa Fe Room, which is used for meetings and banquets. She also designed the chandeliers and tin work on the light fixtures in what is now the French Pastry Shop. But I was particularly taken by the little paintings on the windows surrounding the dining room, initially an open-air patio but

Left Detail  of  the  Hopi   House Top  &  Center  Right   Canyon  view  from   Hermit’s  Rest Bottom  Right   La  Fonda  Hotel

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now an enclosed restaurant that forms the core of the hotel’s ground floor. Colter and her artist friend Olive Rush came up with the idea when she was working on the hotel. Ernest Martinez, an artisan who has filled a number of jobs at the hotel, has over the past several decades turned out desert sunsets, howling coyotes, solitary cacti, sleeping cowboys, trees and flowers, and faux mosaics on more than 450 panes, giving La Fonda one of the most colorful dining areas in Santa Fe, and one that reflects some of Colter’s own whimsy. There were moments at La Fonda when I felt as though I were traipsing through a relic that had seen better days. But the place lives on, drawing the curious and loyal, safe in its status as a historic hotel. I left Santa Fe and drove southwest on Interstate 25. By the time I was about 30 miles west of Albuquerque, and now on Interstate 40, my eye was constantly being drawn to distant geological formations that seemed permanent in their pastel shades of coral, pink, earth red, brown, and mustard, yet are part of a process of change that has been taking place over In the  foreground  I  could  see  sparse   millennia. In settlements  on  the  Acoma  and     the foreground Navajo  reservations,  juniper  trees   I could see that  speckled  the  rocky  landscape... sparse settlements on the Acoma and Navajo reservations, juniper trees that speckled the rocky landscape, and long freight trains snaking their way along the same rails that carried tourists to Mary Colter’s creations more than half a century ago. The drive past the old railroad and mining towns of Grants and Gallup in western New Mexico was an ongoing encounter with startling

Right Detail  of    Desertview  Tower

features—chiseled portions of cliff that resembled human faces, huge boulders poised on the sides of hills like landslides in suspended animation, distant spires of rock that I imagined as giant gnarled fingers poking out of the earth. When I drove through in late September, the air was particularly clear and the colors were sharp.

The Trek  Continues After Gallup, I crossed into Arizona and entered Navajo Nation, and the landscape flattened out, with distant mountains that appeared faded in the haze of the desert heat. I noticed a billboard advertising La Posada Hotel about 20 miles before I got to Winslow, some 50 miles east of Flagstaff. Winslow was the southwestern hub for the Santa Fe Railroad during the 1930’s. Trains dropped passengers off on one side of the hotel; Route 66 passed by on the other. The hotel went into decline with the rest of the town after World War II and was later converted into offices for the Santa Fe Railroad. In 1997 it was bought by Allan Affeldt, who is undertaking a major restoration that goes a long way toward honoring Colter’s original creation. As part of her effort to create a homelike atmosphere for her imaginary Spanish family, Colter imported furnishings from Russia, China, the Middle East, and Europe in addition to the Southwest, just as such a family might have. She designed wonderful public spaces — a ballroom, wide corridors, alcoves where one can sit and read — and put in a sunken garden sheltered from the wind by the main building. The bland drywall that was used by the Santa Fe Railroad to cover up Colter’s walls has been removed to reveal original colors and design touches.



PHANTOM RANCH   Tucked in beside Bright Angel Creek on the north side of the Colorado River, it is the only lodging facility below the Canyon rim. Reservations available.

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DESERT VIEW   The structure is composed of a circular coursed masonry tower rising from a rubble base. The base was intentionally designed to convey a ruinous appearance.


HOPI HOUSE   Colter planned Hopi House as a sort of living museum, in which Hopi Indians could live while making and selling traditional handmade crafts.


THE LOOKOUT   Lookout Studio employs Colter’s signature rustic style of using jagged native rocks to imitate indigenous structures and to blend in with the environment.

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Photocredit: Bam  Guru

Photocredit: Natonal  Park  Service

...the grandeur  of  the  canyon,  with  its  layers  of  toweri   Top   The  view  of  the   Grand  Canyon

The owners consulted an extensive photo collection when planning the restoration of arches and doorways, and they have tracked down hotel artifacts that had collected in people’s houses, offices, and garages. Local artisans have produced new tin work and furniture faithful to Colter’s aesthetic. Each guest room is decorated with its own wall colors, floor tiles, antique furniture, and artwork, and each has a different layout. The rooms are named for the celebrities and dignitaries who stayed at La Posada in its prime — from Clark Gable and Mary Pickford to Harry Truman and Albert Einstein—when it was one of the famous hotels of the Southwest and a rest stop on the way to the Grand Canyon or Arizona’s Painted Desert. La Posada felt like a bargain to me after so many evenings in the sterile anonymity of roadside chain hotels that hadn’t been much cheaper.

The Final  Stop Less than three hours from Winslow is the Grand Canyon. The bulk of Colter’s surviving work consists of seven structures along the South Rim built be-

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tween 1905 and 1937, including Bright Angel Lodge, with its simple stone - and - wood cabins and rooms, and a handful of unusual rest spots and lookout points. When Colter started out, the Grand Canyon was a destination for the elite who had the time and money to make what was a rather daring and lengthy journey. By 1935, when she was commissioned to design Bright Angel, the motorcar was the prevailing means of transport, and such travel had become available to the middle class. Now, close to 5 million people visit the canyon each year. Colter’s Lookout Studio, a stone building that seems to grow naturally over the edge of the rim a few steps from Bright Angel Lodge, has surrendered some of its rustic charm to the increased demands of tourism. I had read great things about it — enough to be disappointed when I encountered a glut of trinkets on sale that competed with the view from the terrace and the windows that swing open over the canyon. Eight miles to the west is Hermits Rest, another piece of fantasy architecture, built in 1914 for stagecoach travelers and designed like the sooty dwelling of a real hermit. Colter apparently went to

ng cliffs  and  stone  walls,  made  it  a  sublime  adventure. great lengths to achieve the charcoal-smudged look of the large, stone fireplace, which today provides a folksy backdrop for countless tourist snapshots of friends and family. The most mythical of Colter’s Grand Canyon works is Phantom Ranch, an unassuming cluster of cabins and a main lodge, nestled along Bright Angel Creek at the bottom of the canyon, 5,000 feet below the rim. Hiking down, I was initially intimidated by the magnitude of what I had gotten myself into, but the grandeur of the canyon, with its layers of towering cliffs and stone walls, made it a sublime adventure. Phantom Ranch can accommodate 90 visitors a day; perhaps more important for those who arrive tired, sweaty, and hungry, it provides electricity, running water, and wholesome meals. The daytime heat at the bottom is oppressive—it can reach 120 at its most extreme during the peak of summer. Early spring or late fall is the best time to go— much cooler. When I wasn’t huddled in the air -conditioned lodge with a cold beer talking to fellow hikers, I spent long periods cooling myself in Bright Angel Creek, a tributary of the Colorado. In the early eve-

ning, a large dinner of steak, vegetables, and wine was served at communal tables to those of us spending the night. The dining room at the lodge is simple and rectangular, with wooden tables and benches and walls covered with old photos—including one of President Theodore Roosevelt in a coat and tie descending into the canyon by mule. I left on the South Kaibab Trail before sunrise the next morning—tieless and on foot— and four hours and seven miles of ascent later arrived at the rim. The morning after my climb I drove a leisurely 30 miles east on the park road past the turnoff for Grandview Point, to Desert View,on the border of Navajo Nation, to see the Watchtower, which Colter designed in 1932. To my mind it is her masterpiece, a lighthouse - shaped mosaic tower of stone perched on the canyon rim, with four levels of Hopi mythological wall paintings inside, and what may be the greatest view in the world. Far below me was the mighty Colorado River. I sat for a long time away from the tourists and their cameras, listening to the ravens and trying to take in all of the brilliant orange, red, and sandstone shades of the canyon. Ô

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Arizona Number



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Numbers 3 – 6


Explore the  wonders  of  Sedona  and  camp   at  nearby  Red  Rock  Country.  Backpack,   bike  or  take  a  horseback  ride  through   the  indescribably  landscapes  of  Sedona.   There  are  fishing  and  boating  activities  at   local  locations,  as  well  as  activities  listed   below.  Camping  fees  cost  anywhere  from   $16-65  per  night.  Most  sites  are  available   for  reserve.

3. Munds Wagon

4. Sycamore Canyon

5. Brins Mesa Trail

6. Canyon Creek Trail

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Diamond Creek No.


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number eight



Camp at  Red  Rock  Country

Musical Instrutment Museum DXb\k`d\]fiX[Xpki`gkf k_`jG_f\e`odlj\ldk_Xk`j [\[`ZXk\[\ek`i\cpkfdlj`ZXc`ejkilkd\ekj]ifd)'' Zfleki`\jXifle[k_\nfic[ Xe[k_\`i_`jkfip#K_\dlj\ld _fjkjdXep^i\XkXik`jkjXe[ j_fnZXj\jXn`[\mXi`\kpf] dlj`Z%


Vintage By Misty




Recapture a  classic   look  with  an  array   of  designer  clothing  and  accessories  at  this  unique   vintage  store. Featuring  clothing   from  a  wide  range   of  designers  you   won’t  have  trouble   finging  a  unique   outfitsat  this  one   stop  shop  located   in    Phoenix.

Nos. 10 – 14

10. Wyatt Earp

11. Chief Cochise

12. Frank Lloyd Wright

13. Geronimo

14. “Red Jack” Averill

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Travel to  the  stomping  grounds  of  some   of  Arizona’s  most   popular  historical  figures  and  see  the  sites   dedicated  to  them.

No. 15

nos. 16+17


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AFTER PARTY number eighteen

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Rio Salado Sportsman Club If you’ve  ever  wanted  to  learn  how  to  shoot  a  gun  like  a  real   cowboy,  this  club  owned  by  the  Arizona  Fish  &  Game  Department   is  the  right  spot  for  you.  With  over  140  acres  of  land,  this  spot  is   just  right  for  beginners  looking  to  try  out  a  new  experience.  The   friendly  and  helpful  staff  will  assist  you  in  making  sure  you  have   the  right  gear  and  the  right  guidance  to  make  that  perfect  shot.   It’s  just  a  hop  off  of  Highway  80  in  Mesa.

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no. 20

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May 2012 Ô explore 21

number twenty-one

22. Take a drive to a Ghost Town

CANYONEER THE SLOTS Don’t miss  the  slot  canyons  of   northern  Arizona.  In  this  land  of   slick  rock,  violent  flash  flood  torrents  have  sliced  into  sandstone   bedrock,  creating  canyons  so   narrow  even  the  light  of  midday   barely  illuminates  their  depths.

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No. 26

Lee’s Ferry

no. 23

no. 24

no. 25

Tuba City


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22 explore Ô May 2012

29. Canoe Lake Saguaro

30. Canoe Willow Lake

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29 + 30

Go to Chase Field to see the Arizona Diamondbacks , famous for being the fastest expansion team in the majors to win a championship.












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35. yuma state prison Fecpi\deXekji\dX`ef]k_`j_`jkfi`ZXc gi`jfeYl`ck`e(/.-#n_\i\pflZXec\Xie XYflkk_\jgfkn_\i\jfd\f]k_\dfjk [Xe^\ifljgi`jfe\ijj\im\[k`d\fm\i`kj **p\Xijf]fg\iXk`fe`ePldX%;feËkd`jj k_\g_fkf^iXg_p\o_`Y`kn_`Z_j_fnZXj\j g`Zkli\jf]8i`qfeXËj]XdfljflkcXnj%


37 no. 38

Learn to Ride a Horse FB:fiiXc`jcfZXk\[aljkefik_f]G_f\e`oXe[`jk_\j`k\f]X_`jkfi`Z(/.'Ëj^fc[ d`e\%8m`j`kkfk_\iXeZ_^`m\jm`j`kfijXZ_XeZ\kfjk\gXnXp]ifdk_\_\Zk`Z_ljkc\ f]k_\Z`kpXe[\eafpk_\hl`\kjfc`kl[\f]k_\[\j\ikfeXkiljk_fij\%>l`[\[Yp`e]fidXk`m\#gif]\jj`feXcniXe^c\ij#FB:fiiXcf]]\ijjZ\e`ZkiX`cj#\oZ\gk`feXcj\im`Z\Xe[ i\XjfeXYc\iXk\j%CfZXk\[feJgli:ifjjI[%`e:Xm\:i\\b8Q% NOS. 39 – 43


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39. Kaibab-Paiute Tribe C\XieXYflkk_`j ]XjZ`eXk`e^ki`Y\ Xkk_\G`g\Jgi`e^ EXk`feXcDfeld\ek$BX`YXY9Xe[ f]GX`lk\@e[`Xej M`j`kfi:\ek\i Xe[Dlj\ld% K_\e\ncpYl`ck \o_`Y`kj^l`[\pfl k_ifl^_k_\_`jkfipf]k_\@e[`Xej Xe[Dfidfejn_f j\kkc\[k_`jXi\X%

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41. Hopi Tribe M`\njfd\f]k_\ Ôe\jkXik`jkip`e NXcg`#XZ`kpn_\i\ ?fg`Xik`jXejj\cc YXjb\kj#ZXim`e^j# gX`ek`e^j#gfkk\ip Xe[n\Xm`e^j% DXepk`d\jpfl n`ccd\\kXik`jXej n_fn`cc`em`k\pfl `ekfk_\`i_fd\j kfm`\nk_\`iXik$ dXb`e^gifZ\jj%

42. San carlos apache K_\:_Xe^`e^ NfdXeZ\i\dfep `jX]fli[Xp i`k\$f]$kiXej`k`fe Z\c\YiXk`fe]fi pfle^8gXZ_\ ^`icj%C`jk\ekfk_\ jfe^jXe[c\Xie XYflkk_\jg`i`klXc Y\c`\]jf]k_\JXe :Xicfj8gXZ_\%

43. Tohono O’odham Nation K_\Kf_fef FËf[_XdEXk`fe If[\fXe[]X`i ]\Xkli\jif[\f# gfnnfn#[XeZ`e^# ZiX]kjjXc\jXe[ ]ff[%K_`jZ\i\dfep`jX^`Xek Z\c\YiXk`fek_Xk le`k\jYfk_cfZXcj Xe[m`j`kfijkfk_\ Xi\X%

May 2012 Ô explore 23

THAT COWBOY  LOOK A  roadtrip  to  Arizona  wouldn’t  be  complete  without  stopping  in  at  least  one  of  the  many  boutiques   along  the  way.  In  these  shops  you’re  sure  to  find   timeless,  well  -  crafted  and  unique  items  that  will   last  for  years  to  come. TELESCOPE-CROWN  HAT Nothing  represents  the   spirit  of  independence  like  an   authentic  cowboy  hat.  ($234,   J.W.  Brooks,  Mesa)



This small  shop  on  the  corner  of  Sutton   and  Main  Street  in  Bisbee  Center  has   a  gorgeous  selection  of  local  artisan’s   jewelry  and  accessories.  

Now, we’re  not  going  to  suggest  that  you  should  buy  a   poncho  and  where  it  to  work   when  you  get  home.  But  the   beautiful  quiltwork  of  Clint’s   poncho  can  be  found  in  other   fashions  here.  ($88,  Downtown  Joe’s,  Bisbee)    

DENIM SHIRT For  a  range  of  hand  -  crafted   button  down  shirts  that   reflect  the  unique  fashion   of  Arizona,  look  no  further   than  this  local  favorite.  ($29,   Bordello’s,  Scottsdale)

LEATHER BELT A  quality  leather  belt  is  essential  to  any  closet  no  matter   your  style  preferences. (prices  vary,  Atlai  Leather   Designs,  Jerome)

DARK WASH  JEANS Even  if  you’re  not  Clint     Eastwood,  you’ll  still  look  rugged  in  a  pair  of  Levi’s  jeans. ($58  at  Jerry’s,  Tuscon)

ƀ FINDING THE   RIGHT  BUCKLE The  Western  belt   buckle  was  made   famous  by  Hollywood,  but  historically  cowboys   wore  suspenders.

24 explore Ô May 2012





Solid pewter   construction  with   wheel  design   etched  in  ($86),

Silver engraved   Western  style  belt   buckle  with  etched   trim  ($185).

Longhorn steer   design  with  an   antique  finish  on   pewter  ($39).

Bullrider trophy   buckle  replica  in   silverof  an  1879   original  ($245).

Explore Vol. 157 · No.4

june 2012



page 138

page 174




May 2012 Ô explore 25

Explore Magazine 2  
Explore Magazine 2  

Explore Magazine 2