Powerboater's Guide to Electrical Systems - PDF DOWNLOAD

Page 67

Wire and Circuit Protection Standards and Repair Procedures fuses will fail under the end caps where the break in the element is out of sight. When some brands of circuit breakers trip, the reset lever remains in the “on” position and they give no visual clues as to their condition; this is especially true of the trip-free breakers required on boats. Fortunately it’s easy to test circuit breakers and fuses using your multimeter.

Testing Fuses

Fig. 4-13. “Ign. protected” label on a protected breaker. This is the only breaker type that should be used in an engine room or compartment where CNG or LPG are stored.

of the ABYC standards. There are exceptions to the rules for diesel-fueled boats, but on countless occasions I have seen jerricans of gasoline stored in diesel engine rooms. This circumvents the intent of the regulations, and one foolish move by the owner of these boats could cause a disaster. An improperly stored LPG (liquid propane gas) tank is also a time bomb.

Testing Fuses and Circuit Breakers One of the very first things you should check when a circuit of any type becomes inoperative is the condition of the fuses and circuit breakers, so it’s important that you know how to verify that they are working properly. You might be saying to yourself, “Hey, my boat has all glass bus-type fuses. All I need to do is look at a fuse and I can tell if it’s blown or not.” This is not necessarily true. Often these AGC

First, be sure the boat’s battery master switch is turned on. Now set your meter to the appropriate DC voltage and attach the black probe to the DC negative bus on the back of your distribution panel or to any good ground. Touch the probe of your red lead to the positive side of the fuse holder and take a reading of your battery voltage. If you don’t get a reading, you have a problem in the feed to the fuse from the positive bus bar. If you do get a reading of battery voltage, move your red probe to the terminal at the other end of the fuse and see if you get the same reading on your meter. If the reading is the same as the battery voltage, the fuse is working. If you don’t get a reading, the fuse is blown and needs to be replaced. If you get a reading but it’s lower than the battery voltage, you have a voltage drop that’s probably caused by a corroded fuse holder. Remove the fuse and clean it and the holder. Replace the fuse and measure again. The reading should be the same on both sides of the fuse.

Testing Circuit Breakers To check for electrical continuity through a circuit breaker, first switch the breaker on and make sure that the terminals are clean and tight. With one meter lead attached to a known good ground, take a reading on the positive side of the breaker the same way you did for a fuse. If you get an identical reading at the adjacent terminal on the breaker, the breaker is working fine and any problems you may be having with the circuit have nothing to do with the circuit protection. If you do not get an identical reading on both sides of the breaker, it’s faulty and will require replacement. Make sure to match the rating of the new breaker with the old one. Figures 4-14a and 4-14b on page 54 show this test. 53


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Index

18min
pages 215-223

Resources

1min
page 214

Glossary

14min
pages 207-213

Installing Your Own Radar

5min
pages 205-206

Installing a GPS Receiver

2min
page 204

Power Supply

3min
page 196

Galvanic Isolators

6min
pages 191-193

AC Generators

5min
pages 189-190

Comparisons between AC and DC Circuits

6min
pages 173-175

AC Overcurrent Protection

4min
pages 176-177

Selecting a DC-to-AC Inverter

17min
pages 184-188

Color Coding for AC Wiring

3min
page 172

Checking Voltage, Continuity, and Polarity on AC Circuits

7min
pages 181-183

Ground-Fault Circuit Interrupters

2min
page 180

The Future

1min
page 169

General Instrument Troubleshooting

16min
pages 163-168

Abnormal Instrument Readings

3min
page 162

Adding a New Compact-Disc Player

7min
pages 158-160

Installing a New Bilge Pump

10min
pages 154-157

Installing a New Cabin Light

3min
page 153

Other Outboard-Engine Starter-Motor Problems

1min
page 149

Testing the Neutral-Safety Switch

3min
page 146

Engine Ignition Switch

4min
pages 147-148

Outboard-Engine Starter Circuits

10min
pages 142-145

Troubleshooting Starter-Motor Circuits

6min
pages 139-141

Starter-Motor Problems and Solutions

2min
page 138

Testing Your Stop Switch

3min
page 133

Final Checks and Ignition Timing

8min
pages 134-136

Outboard and PWC Ignition Tests

19min
pages 126-132

Beyond the Basics: Outboard and PWC Ignition Systems

6min
pages 124-125

Shore-Power Battery Charging Systems and Installations

9min
pages 110-112

MerCruiser Thunderbolt IV and Thunderbolt V Systems

7min
pages 121-123

Solar Cells

2min
page 113

Outboard-Engine Charging Systems

5min
pages 108-109

Battery Installations

15min
pages 90-95

Battery Maintenance and Testing

4min
pages 88-89

Which Battery Is Right for You?

9min
pages 83-85

Battery Safety

5min
pages 86-87

Connecting the Dots: Making Wiring and Connection Repairs

8min
pages 73-78

Testing Your Batteries

10min
pages 96-99

Types of Lead-Acid Batteries

9min
pages 80-82

Wire Routing and Support

4min
pages 71-72

Acceptable Locations for Fuses and Circuit Breakers

4min
pages 69-70

Levels of Circuit Protection

1min
page 68

Testing Fuses and Circuit Breakers

2min
page 67

Ignition Protection

1min
page 66

Fuses and Circuit Breakers

14min
pages 60-65

Wire Size

2min
page 56

Wire Insulation

2min
pages 57-59

Basic Wiring

3min
page 55

Drawing Your Own Wiring Diagram

9min
pages 36-38

Expanding the Basic Circuit

3min
page 33

Wire Identification and the ABYC Color Code

8min
pages 29-32

Using Your Multimeter

10min
pages 44-47

Voltage Drop

2min
page 22

Ohm’s Law and What It Can Tell Us

8min
pages 19-21

Tools

2min
pages 24-25

Measuring Amperage

4min
pages 48-50
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