Like Gustave Flaubert or Pierre Loti, from Luxor to Assouan, venture up the Nile aboard a dahabieh for a few days. The "Lazuli", elegant 35 meter-long boat with lateen sails possesses five cabins, a quality kitchen and a tasteful decor. Its shallow hull enables a skirting of authentic villages and little-known archaeological sites off the beaten path and away from the throng of tourists. A genuine asset...