Page 1

HEAVEN

HAS HEELS

designer talk // special issue EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEWS WITH FASHION’S RISING STARS INCLUDING KRYSTELL BARRAZA | ANA MICKOVIC | IVANKA HRISTOVA | VERITY & VOLITION | MARP | DUE FASHION | TZULI HSU | OROCEO CASTRO | YLLIN | NICO SUTOR STELLA SALLAKU | LONGSHAW WARD | LINDY FOX | NADIA RAPTI | MARINE SERRE | NOORISM | ALOURA LONDON | REBECCA KELLETT | PARLOR


CONTENTS

KRYSTELL BARRAZA ANA MICKOVIC IVANKA HRISTOVA VERITY & VOLITION MARP DUE FASHION TZULI HSU OROCEO CASTRO YLLIN NICO SUTOR STELLA SALLAKU LONGSHAW WARD LINDY FOX NADIA RAPTI MARINE SERRE NOORISM ALOURA LONDON REBECCA KELLETT PARLOR


_____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________

2 9 12 16 19 24 28 32 34 38 42 46 48 52 56 60 62 64 66 Cover: Wearing: ANA MIĆKOVIĆ Photography: MINA ŠARENAC Model: MARIJANA STRAĆENSKI

HEAVEN HAS HEELS special issue | @HHHEELS


HEAVEN

HAS HEELS EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Angela Gilltrap CREATIVE DIRECTOR Rochelle Taylor PHOTO DIRECTOR Rob Shaw COPY EDITOR Tonya Markus FEATURES EDITOR Julia Stuart Heaven Has Heels magazine is published by Lot 17 Media. The entire contents of Heaven Has Heels are protected by copyright and may not be reproduced without the expressed written consent of the publisher. Heaven Has Heels accepts no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts and/or photographs and assumes no liability for products or services advertised herein. Heaven Has Heels reserves the right to edit, rewrite, refuse or reuse material, is not responsible for errors or omissions and may feature same on HeavenHasHeels.com, as well as other mediums for any and all purposes.

HEAVEN HAS HEELS special issue | @HHHEELS


EDITOR’S NOTE

T

he world is full of talent; you only need to know where to look. Every day myself and the team here at Heaven Has Heels scour the internet, trade shows, fashion weeks

and graduation collections all over the world to discover the next big thing in fashion, footwear and accessories. It’s one of my favorite parts of the job.

It’s an honor to be able to provide a

platform on which these designers can be seen and heard because clothes are more than simply material. Each collection is the culmination of a designer’s life work—their personal triumphs and failures, their attempts to outwardly express an inner dialogue. Financially, it’s the basis of a community’s infrastructure, a family’s sole income, a craftsman’s way of life.

While global chains and fast fashion rise,

so too does the power of the independent designer who help each of us express our ideals, style and own unique expression to the world. Here at Heaven Has Heels, we feel this is worth celebrating.

I sincerely hope you enjoy this special issue

of Designer Talk that provides a glimpse into the workings of these amazing, independent fashion designers.

Until next time, may your heels be as high

as your standards,

Angela Gilltrap

Editor-In-Chief


KRYSTELL BARRAZA Young American designer, Krystell

material and make sure that it does not

Barraza draws inspiration from unique

go to waste. The artisans who make them

landscapes, pop culture and her real

usually take 150 hours to create a single

(and imaginary) travels. A graduate

piece, so I feel like I owe it to them to

of the School of the Art Institute of

create something that they would be

Chicago (SAIC), her globe trotting

proud of too.

adventures have helped shape her covetable modern-American aesthetic.

How does your geographic location influence your aesthetic? For many, the

How did you become involved in fashion

Midwest = more wearable, and that holds

design? It was all by chance. When I

true to my own aesthetic to some extent.

was fifteen, a friend introduced me to

However, I do like to draw inspiration

a designer that worked in Chicago. On

from unique locations, whether that’s

the weekend, my parents would drive

the Icelandic countryside or a desert

me to her place and I would help around

with snow-white sand in New Mexico.

her studio or with client fittings. After

I then build a collection around those

we finished the day’s errands, she would

places (and shoot there!). So I don’t let

teach me how to make a garment from

my location limit me in that regard.

scratch. Over a period of six months, she gave me a great foundation in how

What’s been your greatest professional

to create a sketch, translate that into a

achievement to date? The response I

pattern, and then finally sew it up. After

received after launching my business

that experience I knew that I wanted to

despite still being in school at the time—

pursue design as a career.

every pull request, every new client—is a nice piece of validation in knowing

What materials do you most like to

that I made the right decision, even if it

work with? Up until recently, I would

seemed rash at the very beginning.

have said any kind of silk. But now, I enjoy working with handwoven textiles

What’s one thing people would never

so much more. Each one is an absolute

guess about you? I love Star Wars! —

treasure, and it forces me to respect the

KrystellBarraza.com

HEAVEN HAS HEELS special issue | @HHHEELS

2


ANA MIĆKOVIĆ With a contemporary twist on modern classics, Ana

to these natural elements and reference chakras as a

Mićković has attracted loyal fans to her burgeoning

means of promoting health and well-being. The designs

line of ready-to-wear pieces. The twenty-five year old

aim to be receptive to the elements, and to sensitively

designer from Serbia aims to challenge the way fashion

express and harness the fluctuating forces of the natural

is perceived, creating high-end, covet-able garments

crystal world. The Good Vibrations collection exemplifies

inspired by a sense of well-being, art and nature.

how fashion has the power to change moods and emotions.

How did you become involved in fashion design? My early involvement in the arts—exploring painting,

How does your geographic location influence your

calligraphy, theater, and music—started while I was

aesthetic? I love visiting places and learning from

living in Beijing, China. It led to my passion for drawing

different people. London has thought me to be more

and I developed an appreciation of applied arts and

open-mined, because of its culture that gives you total

design. I pursued my Bachelor’s degree at The Faculty of

freedom which is the key to creativity. Designers can

Applied Arts in my hometown Belgrade. While studying,

explore their ideas and atheistic without limitations,

I worked as an assistant designer, costume designer and

while my home country Serbia influenced the use of

volunteered in museums. After my bachelor fashion show

handmade techniques and detail oriented design.

and exhibition, I decided to undertake a Master’s degree in London, where I interned for Gareth Pugh and Erdem.

What’s been your greatest professional achievement to

My master’s collection Good Vibrations, marked the debut

date? I have several notable accomplishments in both my

of my brand, Ana Mićković. I enjoy being involved in all

education and my work experience. Probably the most

aspects of fashion, so I also work as a freelance stylist

notable accomplishment was the launch of my Good

and as an assistant to the fashion editor of ELLE Serbia

Vibrations collection and starting my own business. I feel

magazine.

my greatest professional achievement is yet to come. I am proud of who I have worked for and how many people

What materials do you most like to work with? I work

love my designs. Being able to work doing what I enjoy is

with a wide variety of materials, combining traditional

what I value most.

methods of textile making with new materials and technologies balances tradition with innovation. I used

What’s one thing people would never guess about

high quality natural materials for my Good Vibrations

you? That I worked in a karaoke club while studying my

collection where craftsmanship is apparent. The essence

Master’s in London. All the money I made I spent on

of crystals and chakras has informed the collection. Their

materials for my collection. — AnaMickovic.com

qualities and their geometry have been key. They have influenced the process of shaping and manipulating the garments and fabrics. The embellishments relate directly

HEAVEN HAS HEELS special issue | @HHHEELS

11


HEAVEN HAS HEELS special issue | @HHHEELS

13


IVANKA HRISTOVA Founded in 2015, Ivanka Hristova launched her eponymous brand following

How does your geographic location i

the success of her graduate collection. Born in Bulgaria, based in London, her

Bulgaria, then moved to London at th

passion for textile and print development combined with her hand embroidered

costumes were the inspiration for my

textile techniques make this young designer one-to-watch.

unexpectedly successful, and stood as

How did you become involved in fashion design? I initially started studying

What’s been your greatest profession

fashion design and textiles in secondary school, which lead all the way to

business at the age of twenty-five is r

university. However, by the time I reached my final year, at the University of

attention, self-focus and dedication I

East London—not realizing the hard work it requires—I was more enticed by the

Being able to be in control of your cre

artistic side of fashion, for example the process of creating a product. Today, I am definitely a lot more business orientated/conscious.

What’s one thing people would never

as well as designing my silhouettes an What materials do you most like to work with? I am aiming to establish my

which go on the final outfits. I enjoy e

brand as being recognizably ethical and creatively outstanding.

prefer finding that perfect “clique” by fabrications. — IvankaHristova.co.uk

14

HEAVEN HAS HEELS special issue | @HHHEELS


influence your aesthetic? I was born in

he age of ten. Native Bulgarian festival

y Graduate Collection that happened to be

s the flipping point of my career.

nal achievement to date? Having my own

really what keeps me going for the amount of

I must put in every single minute of the day.

eative process and showcase, is incredible.

r guess about you? People never guess that

nd shapes, I also design all of the prints,

experimenting with color and print, and

y myself, rather than depend on existing


HEAVEN HAS HEELS special issue | @HHHEELS

17


18

HEAVEN HAS HEELS special issue | @HHHEELS


VERITY & VOLITION Based in Dallas, Texas Verity & Volition is the brainchild

comfortably.

of designer Cheyenne Xia. The aim: to produce premium quality clothing, integrity in sourcing & production, all at

How does your geographic location influence your atheistic?

an affordable price point.

Not so much, as a matter of fact. I like to incorporate different cultural elements in my designs in a subtle way.

How did you become involved in fashion design? I was

For me, design, like any other creative means, is a universal

born and raised in a traditional Chinese family. I have been

language in communicating your ideas, passion, and point of

immersed in arts since the age of seven, when I began

view. I consciously remind myself not to limit my design to

studying classical piano performance. Although I no longer

one or two geographic locations.

compete, the classical music remains one of my passions and sources of creativity. I was trained as an economist

What’s been your greatest professional achievement to date?

academically, but it has never quite settled into place in my

I started my fashion brand in 2015 and started a fashion

heart. I continued to seek my passion in life which led me to

technology project, attempting to connect people with

fashion design. I started studying fashion design in 2012 and

technical fashion design skills with those who are looking for

the rest, as they say, is history. Fashion design serves as the

such skills to launch their designs in an online market place.

amalgamation of both my analytical and creative mind. What’s one thing people would never guess about you? What materials do you most like to work with? I like to work

I have a Master’s degree in Economics and I was a PhD

with natural fibers; and wool, cotton, and silk are my favorite

candidate for Economics.

materials—both woven and knits. They wear beautifully and


MARP Clean lines, architectural forms and

How does your geographic location

a sense of wonder are the aesthetic

influence your aesthetic? Today, we are

ideals of Marp—a Moscow-based

based in Moscow. I can’t say that there

women’s wear line created by young

is a Russian influence on my work. I

designer, Maria Pshenichnikova.

was very much influenced by Florence.

Melding form and function—with an

My soul is always in Florence. I love the

eye for the surreal—Pschenichnikova

landscape and nature in Italy. But so far,

creates unique, wearable pieces with

I am based in Russia, but anything can

an artistic flair.

change.

How did you become involved in

What’s been your greatest professional

fashion design? My mother is an

achievement to date? My greatest

architect, but she drew great fashion

professional achievement to date was

sketches for herself. I was always

my own performance in 2015, from

inspired by her art. I graduated the

concept to creation. I was able to realize

school of sewing and cutting when

my idea “in the red “ and bring it to the

I was eighteen. I continued on to

viewer.

the Moscow Architectural Institute, because it has a very strong base. After

What’s one thing people would never

graduation, I realized that I wanted

guess about you? I’m very sensitive.

to be a fashion designer. I went to a

I can understand on the first days

Polimoda in Florence and graduated in

that a woman is waiting for a child. —

2014. I returned to Russia and founded

MarpCollections.com

my brand MARP. The name derives from my first and last name and my education history: MARHI (Moscow Architectural Institute) (graduated in 2012 ) and Polimoda (graduated in 2014). What materials do you most like to work with? I prefer to work with natural fabrics: cotton, silk, wool and jacquard.

Photography: NATALI DO Model: DINARA ISLIAEVA for UMMO MODEL MANAGEMENT Makeup: EUGENE BAZHENOV

HEAVEN HAS HEELS special issue | @HHHEELS

21


22

HEAVEN HAS HEELS special issue | @HHHEELS


HEAVEN HAS HEELS special issue | @HHHEELS

25


DUE FASHION Lithuanian brand DUE Fashion feature

placed on the velvet gain more shades,

stunning prints inspired by nature with

the texture of the velvet adds shadows; it

a fresh take on everyday objects—from

gives a feeling that the fabric is alive.

a pair of fish scale printed leggings to a tunic dress with crumpled, black-paper

How do you think your geographic

print. Here, Indre Raubaite, project

location influences your aesthetic? DUE

manager of Due Fashion, talks more

Fashion was born in Asia four years ago

on the brand’s origins, aspirations and

when founders Indre Lukosiunaite and

future direction.

Linas Sinkunas were both living and traveling there. They were inspired by the

How did you become involved in fashion

beauty of nature, and the first collection

design? I was working in an advertising

of tops featured satellite photographs

agency for almost five years, but fashion

of the Earth. Our brand has a close

design was always the topic I was most

relationship with nature that inspires the

interested in. I worked with other fashion

whole team. At the moment, DUE Fashion

brands and was responsible for their

is located in Lithuania. This small but

marketing during those times; but then

beautiful country has four seasons—with

the day came when my friend, one of the

hot summers and cold winters. Each

founders of DUE Fashion, offered me the

season surprises us again and again—last

opportunity to join their team. My answer

winter we discovered long walks in the

was yes in less than one second, this was

snowy woods. How could this not be

the first time in my life when I had no

inspiring?

doubts that this was the thing I wanted to do.

What’s been your greatest professional achievement to date? The greatest

What materials do you most like to work

achievement is returning customers; we

with? As DUE Fashion is mostly about

believe it’s the best compliment to any

the prints, we could never stop talking

brand.

about this topic. We seek the materials and collaborate with the artists, and as

What’s one thing people would never

a result, each item has its own story.

guess about you? I am in love with the

Talking about the fabric, velvet is one

nature that is strongly visible in our

of our greatest discoveries. The velvet

works; but I am also totally scared of

that we use is easy to look after and the

spiders. — DueFashion.com

most important thing is that the prints

26

HEAVEN HAS HEELS special issue | @HHHEELS


HEAVEN HAS HEELS special issue | @HHHEELS

29


TZULI HSU

New York. London. Taipei. Tzuli Hsu’s eponymous line of h

is the result of countless globe trotting adventures and inte

Dedicated to producing quality, contemporary garments, H

for detail, expertise in knitwear and passion for design ma burgeoning label—one of fashion’s hottest rising stars.

How did you become involved in fashion design? I decided I

fashion design when I was in high school, but it wasn’t unti

Parsons that I was absolutely sure I wanted to work as a fash

my education I found out my interest and strength in fashio

working experiences in other designer brands, finally I decid label.

What materials do you most like to work with? Yarns. Woo

yak, silk, cotton, with different thickness and characteristics

possibilities of yarn are countless, and that’s why I love knit develop knitwear collections.

30

HEAVEN HAS HEELS special issue | @HHHEELS


high-end knitwear

How does your geographic location influence your aesthetic? Having lived in

ernational studies.

New York, London and Taipei—and traveled to different countries—I embrace

Hsu’s keen eye

diverse cultures and experiences, which shape my visual sensibility on fashion.

ake her—and her

With eastern and western backgrounds, I have more room to further develop my collections.

I wanted to study

What’s been your greatest professional achievement to date? Launching my

il my junior year at

brand. The prior research, sourcing, communication with factories, marketing,

hion designer. During

press, production. All of these took unimaginable time and effort, and I think it was

on, and throughout the

a much greater achievement than me exhibiting in Saks Fifth Avenue or featuring

ded to launch my own

in Vogue U.K. as an independent designer. What’s one thing people would never guess about you? My inspirations for new

ol, cashmere, mohair,

collections. I like to use my personal experiences and narratives as my inspirations,

s. The diversity and

but conceptual ones. So sometimes people might not be able to understand how

tting so much and why I

I translate them into my collections. But I don’t mind that; I like different people viewing my collections and creating their own interpretations and points of view. — TzuliHsu.com


HEAVEN HAS HEELS special issue | @HHHEELS

33


OROCÉO CASTRO Paolo and Ginny founded women’s

our designs and we love it! Melbourne’s

wear brand Orocéo Castro in 2015. The

residents are notorious for loving the color

brother and sister duo made a splash in

black. We are no different. We love black

the Australian fashion scene by utilizing

and neutrals. We tend to limit the amount

structured fabrics to create, and sculpt

of strong colors in our collections but we

flattering silhouettes. Drawing inspiration

can be quite adventurous when it comes to

from their fellow Melbourne fashionistas,

silhouettes. We also adore a striking print!

Orocéo Castro’s signature style transcends continents to appeal to a global audience.

What’s been your greatest professional achievement to date? We definitely have

How did you become involved in fashion

a long way to go, and are still learning the

design? A few years back, I decided to finally

ropes, but we consider being invited to

study fashion after putting it off for so long.

stock at a few stores, as well as being invited

My sister, Ginny, did some fashion styling,

to several fashion shows and featured in

on and off. We are both health professionals

several magazines—all at both local and

but in 2015 we decided to try and start our

international levels—in just a year as

own label. We loved it so much, we decided

achievements. Nevertheless, we crave a lot

to just go for it. We’ve done three collections

more.

so far and we look forward to a lot more. What’s one thing people would never What materials do you most like to work

guess about you? That I eat like a hungry

with? We gravitate towards more structured

python and that Ginny is pretty good at poi

fabrics like ponti and neoprene that create

spinning! — OCMelb.com

really interesting shapes and silhouettes. We also like working with shirting fabrics because it is quite compatible with our style. How does your geographic location influence your aesthetic? Melbourne has a relatively cooler climate however, it also experiences all seasons. This allows us to incorporate a myriad of types of fabrics into

HEAVEN HAS HEELS special issue | @HHHEELS

35


YLLIN Based in South London, YLLIN prides

vibrant on silk. More recently, I have

itself on being part of the slow fashion

been slowly learning how to use stretch

movement; where mindful design

fabrics as well so I can be more versatile

and manufacturing practices are as

in designs.

important as sales and global trends. The brainchild of Nilyma Khan, the

How does your geographic location

bright colors, entrancing motifs and

influence your aesthetic? My

figure-flattering silhouettes appeal to a

geographic location is very important

wide range of conscious consumers.

to me, being in London I am quite lucky to be surrounded with so much

How did you become involved in

inspiration. I am usually influenced

fashion design? From as early as I can

by something I see or find, that’s how

remember, I’ve always loved clothes. I

I build a concept. After building a

instantly fell in love with what I saw on

concept, I go out and find inspiration by

TV and in magazines. Growing up, we

using photography as my main medium

couldn’t really afford to buy cool or nice

to develop a starting point for color and

clothes so when I was around fourteen

shapes.

I realized that if I learned how to use a sewing machine I could make anything

What’s been your greatest professional

I wanted. That was how it begun. The

achievement to date? In 2016 YLLIN

first few things I made were made from

became represented by a creative

Asian saris, they were terrible but I still

agency in Los Angeles. Since having my

ran around in everything I made. I then

collection in their showroom, YLLIN’s

started to focus my studies in textiles/

awareness has been growing in L.A

fashion through high school, college

which lead to being feature in ELLE

and then to university—that’s how I

Croatia magazine, this was a very proud

ended up in London.

moment when I saw something I made printed in an ELLE editorial.

What materials do you most like to work with? I like working mostly with

What’s one thing people would never

woven fabrics because I find that I am

guess about you? I can be a bit nerdy,

able to create the shapes I am after a

with my spare time I like playing Zelda

lot better. When I studied fashion and

on the Nintendo Wii and hanging out

textiles, I focused on prints which was

with animals, up until now I always had

when I began to love using different

a few pets. — Yllin.co.uk

types of silks, the colors come out so

36

HEAVEN HAS HEELS special issue | @HHHEELS


HEAVEN HAS HEELS special issue | @HHHEELS

39


NICO SUTOR Harnessing the creative energy of Berlin,

You can try everything in this city

designer Nico Sutor utilizes global

and this gives you power and so many

opportunities to create a covet-able line

opportunities, you can literally feel the

of androgynous and minimalist jersey

energy. Berlin is not Germany. People

basics for both men and women. Proudly

from all over the world come here and

Made in Berlin, Sutor’s commitment

bring their ideas and cultures with them.

to advanced handcrafting, cutting and

If you walk around with eyes open, this

draping techniques, express her design

is inspiration for 2000 collections and

ideals and dedication to workmanship.

Berliners love black. Lucky me! Even if they are starting to wear baby blue and

How did you become involved in fashion

pink now, it’s okay, it still works very well

design? After the Wall came down, my

with black.

Dad bought me a Barbie and she was naked! I couldn’t tolerate it and so while

What’s been your greatest professional

I was watching The Bold and the Beautiful

achievement to date? I can dress real

with my grandma, I started making

Barbies now, I m living the dream! I

her clothes and I found out, designing

have the luxury to go to places and meet

clothes was a real job! I love TV and the

people from all over the world, that is

Forresters.

what makes every sewing machine lapse and broken needle worth it. I was once at

What materials do you most like to work

a fashion show from a very hyped German

with? I love jersey, there is almost no

Designer and there was this woman and

limits to it. It’s very easy to work with

she was wearing one of my dresses, it

and gives you a certain freedom when you

was the first time that I’d met a complete

wear it. Some people wear my clothes for

stranger wearing my stuff, that was an

yoga, some for dancing in the Berghain,

amazing feeling!

and some on the red carpet, you could do it all in the same dress—if you change the

What’s one thing people would never

shoes. There is a special elegance to black

guess about you? Well, I like buying stuff,

jersey that I really love.

but I hate shopping. ­— NicoSutor.com

How do you think your location influences your aesthetic? Berlin is a huge playground for adults and creatives.

40

HEAVEN HAS HEELS special issue | @HHHEELS


HEAVEN HAS HEELS special issue | @HHHEELS

43


Stella Sallaku’s story is sure to ins

built a successful atelier while com

competitive local market. Her pass

have helped her build a solid found on the international scene.

How did you become involved in fa

my dream has always been to desig

first doll and I handmade her entir

mother tossed. No other toy was ne

my dad kept the sketch book I used

carpet, surrounded by threads, piec

grandmother’s supervision of cour

The first sewing, knitting,

grandmother, who was talented in

most people would say, fashion bac

studied Environment Engineering,


MAISON STELLA SALLAKU

spire. The self-taught Romanian designer has

mpeting with international brands in a highly

able to make my own clothing. Four years later, I decided to start Maison Stella

At the age of twenty, I purchased a small sewing machine in order to be

sion for the craft and thirst for knowledge,

Sallaku, in a small venue in Tirana. The place was so modest but it didn’t matter

dation in her hometown while making waves

to me, I always had imagined a small but cozy place, elegant and sophisticated, yet with a modern touch. I started reading all the books I could find for fashion design techniques, The Little Dictionary of Fashion by C.D., Chanel, Pierre

ashion design? Since I was five years old,

Balmain, etc.

gn and sew clothes. In 1995, I was given my

re wardrobe from old t-shirts and blouses my

designers, their lives and experience. Still today, the rhythm is ten hours a day

My days were intense because I wanted to learn all about other fashion

early as attractive as making clothes, actually

of work (and sometimes more), and at night I read books dedicated to design.

d back then. I used to sit for hours on the

During these years in television, newspapers, magazines, radio etc, I saw

ces of fabric, scissors (with my mother’s and

potential in my unique style and designs. Recently I was given my own column at

rse) and Barbie dolls.

Tiranapost.al, In Stella Sallaku Lupe, it’s kind of like Fashion Police.

, embroidery lessons came from my

handmade clothing, especially knitting. As

sketchbook, I move to the cutting of the pattern and the first sewing by hand or

ck then was not a real profession in Albania, I

machinery myself. It is only after that, I give the garment to one of my employees

, but my heart was elsewhere.

to finish. Being part of the designing and making of my designs inspires me even

A hands on process is what I love, and it is why from designing in the

HEAVEN HAS HEELS special issue | @HHHEELS

45


more, as well as making our clients part of the whole process

educate clients what to ask from a fashion designer. A lot of

is something we both enjoy a lot.

times I thought of leaving Albania and working somewhere else, but something kept me here, I am sure it’s God’s plan.

What materials do you most like to work with? Personally,

So, instead of complaining and nagging about the situation I

I don’t like to put limitations on creativity. That’s why I

work hard, pray, and study new sewing techniques.

have tried different kind of fabrics—from jerseys, cotton,

crepe, crepe de chine, jacquard, brocade, silk, silk satin,

according to international fashion calendar, spring/summer

organdie, tulle, lace, elastics, scuba, sheer, chiffon, doc,

and fall/winter. It was our collaboration with JAANTE

velvet, cashmere, wool, fur. I can say that for a certain type

SHOWROOM in Switzerland who pushed me to continue

of design there is only one appropriate fabric that identifies

through every difficulty, hard work will be rewarded. And

the design 100%. It all comes down to the kind of garment

then Not Just a Label welcomed us with our collections on

I want to make, but as summer is almost here, I prefer doc,

their website and I am humbly grateful to that. It was a great

For a year now we are producing collections

elastic cotton, crepe de chine,

surprise and a huge blessing

silk, jersey and a good lace. In

to see my work there in the

the winter clothing I like to use

Global Community of emerging

wool mainly, as well as elastic

designers.

wool and cashmere.

My favorite fabrics are

What’s been your greatest

the wrinkle-free ones, especially

professional achievement to

for skirts, pants and jackets.

date? This is a tough question,

As for blouses or shirts I prefer

I don’t know actually. Every

silk, crepe de chine and cotton.

achievement was big and

A couple of years ago I felt in

important to me, and I had the

love with velvet, but you know it

privilege to learn a lot though

was just temporary and it comes

all our collaborations. But I may

from time-to-time.

say that being labeled as a Black Sheep Designer at Not Just a

How does your geographic

Label together with the runway

location influence your

that will be held in Zurich by our

aesthetic? Working in Albania

partner JAANTE with our SS’17

for the past three years in

Collection “Daisy,” has been the

fashion design has been and

best moments and inspired me

remains challenging. Albanians

to continue work hard and stick

love to have expensive clothes

to what I want to do, and what

such as (Gucci, Prada, Chanel,

God wants me to do.

Dior, etc.), but their income doesn’t allow for most of them to afford these brands. So the

46

What’s one thing people would never guess about you?

easiest way to make it happen is to go to a tailor’s shop

Well, they never thought I would do bridal dresses, but I

and make it happen with a copied fabric from the above

did a couple of them last year, and I’m working on bridal

mentioned brands. Three years ago it was difficult to explain

dresses and suits this season, very custom-made ones. This

to all customers that I am a fashion designer and I can’t copy

might come as a surprise to many, because my previous

some other designer’s work. A lot of girls sent me photos of

collections were mostly ready-to-wear and custom-made

big brands and wanted the dress or suit made for them.

for special events. In Albania, bridal gowns are full of

jewelry, sequins, ruffles, layers etc. , on the other side I love

People seemed to not know what my job was and

sometimes still is this way, especially with TV celebrities.

minimalist bridal dresses. In my opinion we need a new kind

The struggle was—and is—to maintain the business running

of “Bride,” passionate, confident, loving, feminine, delicate,

and at the same time be okay with my creativity. I didn’t

sophisticated and smart. This is why I want to offer a new

want to promote my work through coping some other

kind of style to young brides who want to make the most

designer’s work and creativity, it was important to me to

from that day, not just be a huge White Christmas Tree.

HEAVEN HAS HEELS special issue | @HHHEELS


LONGSHAW WARD Launched in Spring 2017, designer

unexpected combinations, high-end

duo Longshaw & Ward have pooled

fabrics with more everyday ones to

their creative talents to produce a

create an interesting juxtaposition.

covet-able collection of women’s

We also like to use fabrics like net to

wear and accessories. We caught up

create layering and depth. Our super

David Longshaw—one half of this

impractical net parka is one of our

husband and wife team—to talk

favorite pieces.

style, inspiration and the evolution of Longshaw Ward.

How does your geographic location influence your aesthetic? Though we

How did you become involved in

weren’t born in London it feels like

fashion design? Kirsty and I met

home, particularly creatively. From

designing in Italy for Alberta Ferretti.

the people, galleries and theater, to

It was our first design job after

the amazing architecture, London is

university—Kirsty’s from Oxfordshire,

constantly inspiring.

she studied on the fashion MA at St Martins. I’m from Manchester, I went

What’s been your greatest

to St. Martins BA (fashion women’s

professional achievement to date?

wear) then the Royal College of Art

We’re still waiting for it. It’s fashion, so

(MA women’s wear course). After

it’s always changing and you can never

Ferretti I went to Max Mara then we

spend too long thinking about past

returned to England to launch our own,

achievements.

separate labels which we had of about five years. We decided to merge our

What’s one thing people would never

labels, as we thought it would be more

guess about you? Our studio is based

fun and that we could create more

in an old violin shop. — LongshawWard.

exciting, stronger collections together.

com

What materials do you most like to work with? We love to work with

HEAVEN HAS HEELS special issue | @HHHEELS

49


LINDY FOX Utilitarian yet feminine, neutral

How does your geographic

yet bright, geometric yet

location influence your

flexible, Lindy Fox manages to

aesthetic? I definitely think

combine opposites to reflect the

about function being in NYC

contradictions in our life. The

because we’re so on the go

result, is clothing completely

and need our clothing to be as

rooted in self-expression. Here,

mobile as we are; to bend and

the designer talks to us about

twist with our bodies while still

her dream job, New York City,

looking good.

and life on the farm. What’s been your greatest How did you become involved

achievement to date? Having

in fashion design? From around

two runway shows.

junior high I knew I wanted to be in fashion. I entered through

What’s one thing people would

the business side and am now

never guess about you? That I

working on the design side—

love getting my hands dirty. I

finally living my dream. I took

was raised on a farm after all,

the long road but it’s all been

which I think you can see in my

beneficial.

clothing. — LindyFox.com

What materials do you most like the work with? Anything up-cycled and organic, something that feels it serves a bigger purpose than just being beautiful.

50

HEAVEN HAS HEELS special issue | @HHHEELS


HEAVEN HAS HEELS special issue | @HHHEELS

53


NADIA RAPTI Contrasting elements are at the heart of Nadia

daring creations.

Rapti’s designs. As in life, it’s the complexities, that add layers of depth and interest. For

How does your geographic location influence

Rapti, this is personified in contrasting

your aesthetic? Greece is a blessed place with

elements— boho-romantic and elegant

unlimited beauty and contrasting elements

chic, feminine and masculine combinations,

but also a place with great history and art.

sumptuous and minimal designs. The result is

The unique beauty and elegance of the Greek

a collection of unique pieces designed for the

islands but also the wild nature of mainland

contemporary woman inspired by her home in

country as well as the lines and details of our

the Greek Islands.

sculptures and monuments are mixed with the vibrant spirit of our people to provide the

How did you become involved in fashion

inspiration I am looking for.

design? I was always attracted to the world of fashion. At first, it was the colors and textures

What’s been your greatest professional

of the fabrics and the runway shows, but as I

achievement to date? It’s very hard to decide

was became more exposed and involved, I was

to interpret in the fashion business, let alone

amazed by the creativity of the designers and

to dare to follow your dream in a period

the influence they had over the public. It’s very

characterized by financial instability. It

interesting how someone’s expression and

requires persistence, focus, continuous hard

taste may affect people’s lives and attitude.

work and development—but also experiment

So, I started by experimenting and remaking

and innovation—in order to grow in such

my own clothes and then I decided to take

a competitive and continuous changing

it seriously and study fashion design. After

environment. So yes, my greatest professional

that, everything was—and will continue to

accomplishment is the establishment and

be—a combination of continuous work, effort

development of “NADIA RAPTI.”

and development to give the best of me in an interesting but also jaded market.

What’s one thing people would never guess about you? That’s tough to say, you should

54

What materials do you most like to work

probably ask a third person to answer that for

with? I don’t have boundaries on that. I

me. Although, I have to admit, that I have a

like to experiment with many materials and

complex and contrasting personality which is

compositions. Quality is of major importance

challenging but at the same time very useful

to me and there are basic standards on the

for my job because I always give you something

fabric selections but I like to combine materials

you don’t expect and this is obvious in my

and create unique details in order to give

creations. — NadiaRapti.com

HEAVEN HAS HEELS special issue | @HHHEELS


HEAVEN HAS HEELS special issue | @HHHEELS

57


MARINE SERRE For Marine Serre fashion is all about self expression. The up-and-coming French designer has a passion for artisan and luxury design, interning at Maison Martin Margiela and Christian Dior. She is currently studying at the prestigious La Cambre Mode(s) Belgian Fashion Design School. How did you become involved in fashion design? Well, as a young girl I liked to dress and mix all kind of clothes of my mother, father and grandmother. What materials do you most like to work with? I like a lot of different materials but, if I have to choose: perhaps a good quality cotton. How does your geographic location influence your aesthetic? By living in Belgium—Brussels in particular—I have developed an open-minded vision of fashion inspired by the many different people I have met. There are no rules here, or perhaps better, there is an abundant multitude of many different ones. What’s been your greatest professional achievement to date? I think my greatest achievement so far has been my last collection: Radical Call For Love. What’s one thing people would never guess about you? That I am actually a really sweet person. — MarineSerre.com

58

HEAVEN HAS HEELS special issue | @HHHEELS


HEAVEN HAS HEELS special issue | @HHHEELS

61


NOORISM Unsatisfied with the volume of poorly-

as well as very classic and durable.

made, disposable clothes on offer,

I also source ethical fabrics when I

Noor Zakka launched her stylish

need something besides denim for a

brand of upcycled women’s wear

particular style.

entitled NOORISM in 2015. The brand re-purposes used denim to create new,

How does your geographic location

on-trend looks with an emphasis on

influence your aesthetic? Living in

giving back.

Brooklyn is a constant inspiration from seeing what people wear on the street

How did you become involved in

to collaborations with creative talent.

fashion design? I have always been

Day-to-day life is an inspiration.

interested in making clothes and sewing. When I was little, I wanted to

What’s been your greatest

be a seamstress and when I was in the

professional achievement to date? My

second grade, I saved up my money

biggest professional achievement has

to buy a toy sewing machine. In high

been starting NOORISM and seeing my

school I made clothes for myself that

upcycled denim pieces in stores and

my parents didn’t allow me to buy.

worn by people.

After that, I studied Fashion Design at the Fashion Institute of Technology

What’s one thing people would never

in New York City and worked for a few

guess about you? I drape, make all the

companies after I graduated.

patterns, and cut and sew all of my samples. — Noorism.com

What materials do you most like to work with? I enjoy working with denim because it is a very forgiving fabric

62

HEAVEN HAS HEELS special issue | @HHHEELS


ALOURA LONDON Aloura London is the creation of Rachel O’Mahony

access to some of the world’s most beautiful and

and Emily Hill. The dynamic duo fuse modern evening

innovative traditional and modern architecture that all

wear with elegant embroidery and hand-stitched

act as the main inspiration behind the collections. We

embellishments to offer premium cocktail dresses

consider our design aesthetic to be sleek, feminine and

skillfully created to deliver style and femininity to every

contoured with embellishments, making our garments

woman.

the perfect chic city choice for women going out to party in London or other cities.

How did you become involved in fashion design? Both of us had a passion for fine art while studying at secondary

What’s been your greatest professional achievement to

school, but never initially thought of it as a career option

date? Creating a company from scratch has been both

until the last year of sixth form.

of our biggest achievements to date. From establishing

a business plan, seeking investment and traveling the

We met each other when studying our Art and

Design Foundation at London College of Fashion in

world sourcing fabrics, manufacturers and packaging.

2011. It was here, that we both decided to specialize in

It took two years of blood, sweat and tears to build the

the women’s wear. We often partnered up to experiment

company as we wanted everything to be perfect before

with innovative design techniques and illustrations. The

we launched.

amazingly creative art tutors inspired us to develop our

skills and learn more about women’s wear design.

two months and we are so delighted with all of the

The Aloura brand has been launched now for

positive feedback from our customers and press and have What materials do you most like to work with? For

already started designing the next Aloura collection!

Aloura, we both love working with delicately handstitched embroideries that feature tiny glass beads,

What’s one thing people would never guess about you?

stones and metallic sequins. The overall look of the

Rachel: I’m a natural brunette! — AlouraLondon.co.uk

embellished garments is so strikingly remarkable. We enjoy creating such unique and exclusive pieces, which we feel has now become our signature style.

Luxurious stretch fabrics such as neoprene and

stretch satins are also some of our favorite materials to work with as the fabric molds to the figure and create beautiful, feminine silhouettes. How does your geographical location influence your aesthetic? London is such an inspirational city with

64

HEAVEN HAS HEELS special issue | @HHHEELS


REBECCA KELLETT London-based designer Rebecca Kellett

challenge of the making, incorporated

pushes the boundaries of ready-to-

with print design as a signature

wear with her eclectic collection of

aesthetic within each collection.

statement-making women’s wear. A graduate of the University for the

How does your geographic location

Creative Arts Rochester, her eye for

influence your aesthetic? It’s extremely

design and creative flair make her one

important to me, living and designing

of fashion’s hottest rising stars.

in London we are surrounded by so many influences from different

How did you become involved in

cultures. In turn, comes different

fashion design? I started designing

religions, social groups which all

quite late. I was always inspired

have a diverse approach to dressing.

by fashion and looked towards my

London is a mixture of grit and wealth

grandma, and how she dressed. She

separated by a couple of tube stops. For

was always so fabulous; always looked

me, I identify with not only one part

amazing. I started to paint when I was

of London. I love the exuberance in

sixteen and became very interested in

Chelsea to the rawness and gritty dark

illustration. It wasn’t until I went to

sides of East and North London.

college, with the aim of studying Fine Art, that the tutors said to me, ‘We

What’s been your greatest professional

think you should try fashion as you are

achievement to date? It would

drawing fashion illustrations without

definitely be in between showcasing

realizing and we think you dress very

my collection at the Saatchi Gallery

differently.’ So it began from then,

or the Houses of Parliament. Both are

when I was eighteen.

incredible locations in their own right historically.

What materials do you most like to work with? I try not to work with

What’s one thing people would never

similar materials season after season as

guess about you? I hate the cold, eat

I prefer the challenge of working with

lots of bread and prefer a cup of tea to

unconventional fabrics to push the

a glass of wine. — RebeccaKellett.com

boundaries of the silhouette and what is considered fabric. It is about the

HEAVEN HAS HEELS special issue | @HHHEELS

67


68

HEAVEN HAS HEELS special issue | @HHHEELS


PARLOR Descended from a long line of

How do you think your geographic

fashion innovators, Veronica Zaharia

location influences your aesthetic? I am

continues the family legacy with

very fond of our traditional costumes,

Parlor. Based in Romania, her

the handmade embroideries, the colors

modern-yet-feminine aesthetic attracts

and the story behind every pattern.

fans from around the globe.

One of my dearest designs, The Jacket, inspired by the ethnic symbols from

How did you become involved in

the Romanian traditional costume has

fashion design? I was born and raised in

been highly appreciated by buyers all

a family of artists and since childhood I

over the world. I believe Romanian

was guided and educated for a career in

traditional symbols will find their way

the arts. Before I created Parlor in 2010,

into all my collections, whether it will

I was working in the television and

be handmade embroidery or a different

entertainment industry and became

view on an ethnic pattern.

acquainted with Romanian showbiz personalities, stylists and fashion

What’s been your greatest professional

editors, as part of the production teams

achievement to date? Parlor is my

of top television shows in Romania.

greatest achievement. It is a dream

My debut in the fashion world was a

come true. It’s constantly growing and

natural consequence of my education

I am so happy when I realize that the

and previous career. I learned how

brand values have not been altered over

to create patterns from my mother

the years.

and grandfather—a famous tailor in Bucharest in the 1930s.

What’s one thing people would never guess about you? I can do 300 abs in a

What materials do you most like to work with? I love silk fabrics and handmade embroideries.

row. — Parlor.ro


NEVER MISS ANOTHER ISSUE

HEAVENHASHEELS.com

HEAVEN HAS HEELS // DESIGNER TALK  

Exclusive interviews with fashion's rising stars.

Read more
Read more
Similar to
Popular now
Just for you