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New Zealand’s leading multi-brand distributor for the world’s most sought after beauty brands. CS&CO established the Salon Division in 2012 and is New Zealand’s home to Fudge Professional, ST Tropez, OPI & Eye of Horus. With a team of qualified experts in their fields, the Salon Division services both hair and beauty salons and spas nationwide. We strive to help you achieve your business goals.

CS COMPANY LTD trading as CS&Co. www.cs.co.nz

0800 604 604


HAIR TO FALL IN LOVE WITH


LONG-LASTING TRANSFORMATION FOR HAIR THAT YOUR CLIENTS WILL LOVE

KERASILK PREMIUM HAIR CARE 0800 567 465 | goldwell.co.nz


SUPERIOR COLOUR SUPERIOR SHINE Professional By Fama is an Italian colour range with proven holding power. You and your clients will feel and see the difference.

Call now for your FREE Professional By Fama colour trial pack. Our colours are easy to use, plus we will provide your salon with on-going training and support to make the transition to Professional By Fama an easy one. We won’t lock you into any performance contracts, and our products are priced to help you improve your salons profits!

Call free 0800 880 499 Distributed by Euro Salon Supplies Email: info@eurosalonsupplies.co.nz www.eurosalonsupplies.co.nz facebook.com/eurosalonsupplies


• NO PARABENS • NO SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE • NO LAURETH SULFATE • NO MINERAL OIL • NO PARAFIN OIL • NO PROPYLENE GLYCOL • NO ANIMAL TESTING • ORGANIC NATURAL INGREDIENTS

Available exclusively from Professional Hair Brands p: (+64) 7 847 8350 | e: sales@phb.net.nz Follow us on Facebook: www.facebook.com/phb.net.nz


– Building Salon Business–

0800 505 385 – haircarenz.com – education@haircarenz.com – @haircarenz


Contents Hair 16

Beauty

editor’s note

editor’s autumn favourites

24

8

4

prof ile

trend watch

26 Style File: Mobeen Bhikoo

12 The Cosmetic Manscape

28 Masterclass In Styling: Angelo Seminara

14 Face Of Change

Man Oh Man

Master of Style: Tracey Hughes

30 My Favourite Things: Mikaela Edwards 32 Turning Heads: Denis de Souza 34 Behind The Chair: Mark Leeson 36 Best Tressed: Nicole Warne & Josephine De La Baume

56

international Fusion 62 Hybrid 68 Iconic Hair 74 Copenhagen

80

focus

Postcard From New York

82

business Salon Trends 84 Time Wise

18 Glow-Getting

20

spa zone

Pure Pampering

24

focus

Greener Pastures 26 Optical Illusions 28 Light The Way 32 Grainy Goodness 42 Raw: Into The Season

38

business

The New Client: An Endangered Species

40

nz awards

L'Oréal Style & Colour Trophy Awards 42 Creativity Unleashed: INDUSTRY NZ Award Finalists 48 Best In Business: Protege Hairdressing

12


unleash the

STAR in you entries now open

colourtrophynz@nz.loreal.com / www.lorealprofessionnel.co.nz / #LSCTNZ


® HAIR BEAUTY FASHION NEW ZEALAND / AUTUMN 2016 / VOL.39 NO.1

EDITOR

0800 169 600 • DATELINE.CO.NZ

Charmaine Guest charmaine@selfcaregroup.co.nz ph : +64 9 579 5188 CREATIVE CONSULTANT

Trudi Brewer trudibrewer@xtra.co.nz ART DIRECTOR

Karla Farrar karla@mintideas.co.nz DESIGN

Kirralee Fisher kirralee@mintideas.co.nz EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTORS

Charmaine Guest, Trudi Brewer, Liz Lamb, Larissa Macleman, Wendy Maxwell, Anne O'Brien, Sharyn Raiti, Sharleen Singh, Catherine Stone. PRINTING

Bell Print EDITORAL & ADVERTISING

Contact information : PO Box 14447, Panmure, Auckland 1741 Telephone : +64 9 579 5188 Fax : +64 9 579 7921 Email : info@headway.co.nz ADVERTISING RATES SUPPLIED ON REQUEST EDITORIAL

TIGI

Editorial and pictorial submissions are welcomed. All pictures, prints, manuscripts, and electronic media should be marked with the contributor’s name, contact phone number and address. No material will be returned unless requested and accompanied by a stamped, addressed envelope. No liability or responsibility can be accepted for any loss or damage. CIRCULATION

Headway is widely circulated throughout New Zealand hair, beauty, nail salons and spas. Headway subscription rates in New Zealand are $45.00 (including GST and postage) for one year. HEADWAY® INTERNATIONAL HAIR & BEAUTY FASHION NEW ZEALAND is published by Self Care Group Ltd, 1016a Great South Road, Penrose, Auckland. HEADWAY is published quarterly in March, June, September and December. It is distributed to all paid subscribers, advertisers and their assigns, and widely

fatboy

circulated through New Zealand professional hairdressing and beauty care salons. All statements, including product claims, are those of the person or organisation making them and do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the publisher. While every care is taken, no liability is assumed or accepted by the publishers for any omissions or errors in articles, listings and advertisements, or any losses due to any omissions or errors.© 2016 Self Care Group Limited. HEADWAY® , ‘HEADWAY INTERNATIONAL HAIR & BEAUTY FASHION NEW ZEALAND ”, and “New Zealand HAIR & BEAUTY” are trademarks of Self Care Group Ltd. All articles, illustrations and materials published herein are copyright and are not to be

66 APOLLO DRIVE, ALBANY, AUCKLAND 14

copied, reproduced or distributed in anyway without the express permission of the publisher. All rights reserved.


Hair: Karine Jackson for Organic Colour Systems Creative Direction: Errol Douglas Photography: Andrew O’Toole Stylist: Leticia Dare Makeup: Margaret Aston Assistant: Nicola Hand

Doing what you’ve always done, ® ColourSystems

but better. Plastic FREE

Freephone: 0508 423 737 ext 823 l mobile: 021 906 647 l email: info@organiccolourstystems.co.nz www.organiccoloursystems.co.nz


Editor's letter Hot off the press this issue, we’re proud to present the finalists of the INDUSTRY New Zealand Hairdressing Awards 2016 – and what a fabulous group of talent they are. The quality of work in this year’s competition is outstanding and the event announcing and celebrating the winners on May 8th – INDUSTRY Extracted - also features a super-hot line-up of local and international artists. Check out the beautiful photographic looks in Creativity Unleashed (page 42). I’m also really excited about the revamped L’Oréal Style & Colour Trophy Awards coming up in July. With additional categories, a revised format (which includes no live recreation - just photographic submissions), and the opportunity for the winner to test their skills against other global winners at the grand final in Portugal, the event is truly entering a fresh and inspiring new phase. We have all the details on how to enter and what to expect on page 40. This edition, we get up close and personal with international hairdressing royalty Tracey Hughes, Angelo Seminara, Denis de Souza and Mark Leeson, hone in on the major makeup and beauty trends for 2016, and investigate what really constitutes 'organic' skincare products. We also take a look at the lucrative male market from a beauty perspective. The global trend seeing men more focused on their appearance has led to an increased awareness and understanding of how to make the most of all their physical assets. Man Oh Man (page 8 in beauty) highlights the importance of catering to this evergrowing segment, while The Cosmetic Manscape (page 12 in beauty) explores current trends in appearance medicine for the guys. Last issue, we introduced Trudi Brewer as our new Creative Consultant, but for the coming year, Trudi will be taking over as Managing Editor, as I embark on my most challenging, exciting (and scary!) role to date – that of a Mum. You’ll be in fantastic hands during my absence, and I know Trudi has lots of exciting plans in the works for Headway 2016/17. Enjoy our autumn issue and look forward to seeing you at Colour Trophy in July. Clearly, I can't keep away!

Charmaine For style inspiration and news, join us at facebook.com/headwaymagazine or instagram.com/headwaymagazine

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Pure indulgence! Introducing eight new luxurious, indulgent shades developed by the TIGI Creative Team. From cool antique & vintage rose golds to gorgeous chocolate suede tones, these shades give hair a rich, sensual look. Formulated to be used alone or intermixed they allow stylists to create the ultimate customized result. So now you can indulge your clients’ hair with a unique touch of luxury.

Invent it. Own it. Indulge it. For more creative inspiration and to become a TIGI copyrightŠolour stockist: CALL: 0800 900 024

OR Email: sales@tigi.com.au

tigicopyrightcolour.com | Follow us on Instagram @TIGICREATIVETEAM


18

Jake Unger@HOB Salons, UK

hair


REDISCOVER THE REDISCOVER THE ART ART OF THE THE BLOW-DRY BLOW-DRY OF YOUR HAIR ASSISTANT

Conceived andASSISTANT designed by YOUR HAIR Angelo Seminara Conceived and designed by Angelo Seminara

CARBON NEUTR AL PACK AGING

CARBON NEUTR AL PACK AGING

AVAIL ABLE EXCLUSIVELY THROUGH BOUTIQUE BR ANDS // 0800 25 25 30

AVAIL ABLE EXCLUSIVELY THROUGH BOUTIQUE BR ANDS // 0800 25 25 30


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GOLD RUSH Indulge clients with the beautiful new antique and vintage rose-gold shades from TIGI copyright©olour. “The colour palette for autumn/winter is rich, deep, opulent and complex, says Christel Lundqvist, TIGI Global Technical Creative Director. "We’re using techniques like Diffused Silhouette to give the face a flattering contouring effect." The three new creative shades are developed in a permanent base and offer 4 levels of lift. Excellent for blending high percentages of non-pigmented hair, these colours are perfect for increased coverage when mixed with quarter of the corresponding neutral or natural shades.

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BLOW OUT Protect hair from blow-dry damage with Fudge Gloss Dual-Purpose Blow Dry & Finish. Infused with UV protectors, jojoba oil and natural calendula, this light, luxe serum repels frizz and humidity and leaves hair with a long-lasting, super-glossy, smooth finish. From CS Company.

SEASONAL autumn updates

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PRIME TIME Our must-have for the season is Davines Your Hair Assistant Blowdry Primer. This bodifying tonic provides gorgeous texture and protects against heat and humidity, enhancing hair’s natural shine and reducing blow-dry time. An essential support for creating a state-of-the-art blow-dry. From Boutique Brands.

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HEALTH HIT A unique one-shot hair repair treatment, Keratin Complex VitalShot repairs and rebuilds hair bonds and is brilliant for use with a colour service or on its own. The in-salon service features a multi-patented, triple-layer technology that strengthens locks from the inside out. The more it's used, the healthier hair becomes. From Dateline.

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WELL GROOMED The perfect barbering companion, Reuzel Hair Tonic restores natural shine to hair, instantly creating a well-groomed appearance without the weight. The oil-free formula is ideal for scalp and neck massages and for wetting hair during cutting. Pair with Reuzel Grooming Tonic - formulated for thermal styling - as a base for creating volume, lift and texture. From Haircare NZ.


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MASK THE DIFFERENCE We're treating our hair this season to the beautiful range of take-home products from Goldwell's new Kerasilk Premium Hair Care range. To keep locks sleek, shiny, protected and in amazingly healthy condition, we love the Kerasilk Mask line-up; Control Intensive Smoothing Mask, Reconstruct Intensive Repair Mask, and Color Intensive Luster Mask. The fragrances are also divine.

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INSTANT RENEWAL A deep-conditioning, colour-safe treatment, De Lorenzo Instant Rejuven8 gives hair a boost of moisture and body with a silky-smooth finish. Organically enriched with ginkgo biloba, vitamin E, bilberry and blackberry extracts to protect against colour fade and chemical damage, this little tube of goodness maximises colour vibrancy for longer. From Professional Hair Brands.

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WELCOME TO PARADISE ghd introduce their new limited-edition azores collection; paradise in the palm of your hand. The three stylers come in pearlescent shades inspired by the stunning landscapes of the Azores Islands. Choose between the serene pearl platinum styler, or the classic ghd v styler in atlantic jade or marine allure, to create beach waves, bouncy curls or ghd’s signature straight look.

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HAIR THERAPY Up the ante on your autumn hair regime with KEVIN.MURPHY RE.STORE Repairing Treatment. Using high-tech skincare technology, papaya enzymes and green pea proteins bind moisture to reconstruct damaged hair, while amino acids Arginine and Lysine - the building blocks of repair - help replenish hair with elasticity, strength and moisture. Simply replace your shampoo and conditioner with this little number on day of use. From Crew Distributors.

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TURN UP THE HEAT From gleaming coppers to deep violets and everything in between, Goldwell introduces the Red Collection, featuring four iconic colour services: Deep Violet, Fiery Red, Glowing Mahogany, and Shimmering Copper. These services come with Goldwell’s latest innovations for Topchic and Colorance: new @Elumenated shades. The expansion offers nine shades with crackling intensity, lustrous shine and reliable grey coverage. Complimenting these shades are the new Topchic Effects, Goldwell’s second red innovation, with fashion colours that can lift up to 4 levels and deposit intense reds, even on dark and coloured hair.

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HOT HEADED With the heat still packing a punch, keep colour intact with Davines SU Sun Hair Milk. Offering all the benefits of a cream with the lightness of a spray, the fragrant formula boosts hair hydration and protects your colour during sun exposure. From Boutique Brands.

BLONDE AMBITION Brighten and restore those beautiful natural tones of blonde and silver hair with Theorie Purple Sage Blonde Shampoo and Conditioner. The keratin-infused formula seals pores and reverses damage, while the addition of grapeseed oil and helichrysum extract smoothes away frizz and provides bounce and resilience. From Dateline.

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INDUSTRY EXTRACTED We're thrilled that INDUSTRY is back on May 8th, celebrating and recognising amazing New Zealand talent once again with the INDUSTRY Hairdressing Awards 2016. Headlining the INDUSTRY Awards show at Auckland's 'The Studio' on K'Road is Australian hair guru, Brad Ngata, who will be joined on stage by the Australian Fame Team, INDUSTRY Creative Team and top Kiwi hairdressers Brad Lepper and Mana Dave. Brad Ngata will also be conducting a Look and Learn seminar the following day at the Servilles Academy, along with star colourist Belinda Jeffrey. Belinda is renowned as one of Australia's top colourists; her skills showcased in films such as Moulin Rouge, Mad Max and The Great Gatsby. This is one event you don't want to miss. For tickets, go to nonstoptix.com, or for more info contact Sara Allsop at sara.allsop@xtra.co.nz.

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COLOUR CRAZY Professional Hair Brands has launched the Lust Semi-Permanent Hair Colours Photographic Competition 2016. With colour trends still prominent around pastels, bright, vibrant shades, and everything in between, new Lust Colour gives both master colourists and junior stylists the opportunity to showcase their creativity. The competition offers three categories: Bold - for strong, brilliant Lust tones that turn heads, using an array of colours or one solid colour; Pastel - where soft luminous tones are required to showcase your idea of colour brilliance; and Freestyle, blending bold colour and pastels to demonstrate creativity and using darker depths to enhance the look. Entries are now open and close on June 22nd 2016. For more info, call 07 847 8350 or email sales@lusthair.nz

BARBER SHOP For a dry style that won't leave hair feeling stiff or crispy, try Layrite Grooming Spray from Dateline. Perfect for prepping hair during the drying process and creating a touch of volume, use on its own or work in with pomade for a super-groomed effect.

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COLOUR SECRET We love Oribe Airbrush Root Touch-Up Spray, which instantly hides roots or revives highlights between appointments. How does it work? Microfine pigments blend seamlessly with your natural shade, delivering airbrush coverage when - and where - you need it most. The quick-drying powder formula also absorbs dirt and oil to refresh hair and is available in five shades. From Boutique Brands. 22

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VOLUME SHOT Achieve an instant, full-bodied look with ease thanks to Davines This Is A Dry Texturiser. Creating gorgeous texture with a beachy, ruffled effect, this non-sticky, lightweight hair enhancer enables a quick restyle without ever entering the shower. From Boutique Brands.

LUXURY INFUSION Beautify hair, face and body with Brelil BB Oil Luxury Infusion. This miracle in a bottle offers nourishing, soothing and moisturising benefits, while leaving hair and skin illuminated, supple and silky smooth. From Professional Hair Brands.

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STYLE REVIVAL One part dry shampoo and one part styling paste, R+Co Badlands Dry Shampoo Paste adds amazing texture and allows for next-day bed-head hair. Its matte finish and re-workable hold means no build-up, just serious style. From Boutique Brands.

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FACE FIRST Style, shape and sharpen that moustache with Vines Vintage Moustache Wax. Formulated with honeycomb beeswax for ultimate hold with a polished finish, this grooming wax is infused with Japonica seed oil to hydrate and moisturise during the finishing process. Bring back the handlebar! From Total Beauty Supplies.

BRUNETTE BRILLIANCE We love this rich brunette shade being sported by Brazilian supermodel Alessandra Ambrosio as the face of L'Oréal Professionnel's new DIA Richesse High-Visibility colour range. DIA Richesse High-Visibility is one of the brand’s key colour launches for 2016; a new tone-on-tone hair colour range available in June. This new service delivers an ultra-visible colour signature on all hair bases, including dark tones.

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COLOUR THAT CARES Newly renovated Matrix ColorSync offers a unique ammonia-free, tone-on-tone colour containing a built-in conditioning primer to even hair’s canvas for seamless colour and brilliant shine. With two times more ceramides, ColorSync fills hair porosity, deposits colour evenly from root to tip, and seals the hair cuticle for lasting, vibrant shine. With a richer, more comprehensive palette of 13 shades, the improved formula is perfect for clients wanting grey coverage, as ColorSync now provides up to 75 percent grey blending for a more natural and multi-dimensional colour.

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THE MORNING AFTER Resurrect yesterday’s great hair day with L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni.Art Morning After Dust. This invisible dry shampoo style reviver creates airy volume, fresh texture and absorbs excess oil, leaving fine, lifeless hair reinvigorated and full of shine.

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STYLE WISE Breathe new life into your style with Neuma neuStyling Extender. This lightweight, humidity-resistant refreshing spray saves time by helping restyle with ease. Mist on dry hair to recreate your favourite look using hot tools, knowing that Neuma's proprietary blend of plant extracts and essential oils is hydrating and strengthening at the same time. From Haircare NZ.

DAMAGE CONTROL Say goodbye damaged ends and hello sleek, smooth and healthylooking with ghd advanced split end therapy. Formulated for all hair types, this miracle product contains a blend of nutrient-rich ingredients that fight against heat styling and stress, by nourishing and fortifying damaged ends. Activated by the heat of a styler, the exclusive Thermo-Marine Bonding System fills and binds broken hair fibres together, instantly repairing split ends, while Super Nutrient Complex prevents future breakage. 23


PROFILE

Q&A TRACEY'S FAVOURITES BOOK: My own ‘Tracey Hughes Education Hairdressing Training Manual’ because I’m proud of the content. RESTAURANT: The Yard Café in Nobby Beach on the Gold Coast. This is my husband’s restaurant so I’m completely biased! GUILTY PLEASURE: Caramel Tim Tams. OUTFIT: Jeans, t-shirt and trainers, when I’m not working. CHILL-OUT TIME: At home hanging with my hubby and doggies. MOVIE: Dirty Dancing. HAIRDRESSING ICON: Vidal Sassoon. What’s a working week like for you?

MASTER OF STYLE

tracey hughes

A rare gift for inspiring others and a boundless passion for education makes Tracey Hughes one of hairdressing's true icons

A

legend within the hairdressing industry, Tracey Hughes believes continuous learning is the key to a rewarding and progressive career. As founder of Australia's Mieka Hairdressing and Tracey Hughes Education, she is the most recognized and awarded educator in our industry's history globally. Tracey's passion and commitment to education has been acknowledged through many awards, including Educator of the Year, Excellence in Education, Hairdresser of the Year, Colourist of the Year, Salon of the Year and the coveted Honorary Australian Masters Award. As a mentor, educator, keynote speaker, columnist, business owner, hair director and stylist, Tracey has left no stone unturned to bolster her own experience. It is this experience which sees Tracey as one of the judges for this year's New Zealand L’Oréal Style & Colour Trophy Awards. She shares her tips for success, style inspirations and love of teaching.

Where do you draw inspiration from and what’s inspiring you currently? I find inspiration from lots of different avenues. As an educator, I am very self-inspired as I love to challenge my personal limits. People inspire me. My team inspires me. Perfection inspires me. Motivation and energy inspires me the most. I am motivated by the desire to want to be the best version of myself and to assist others to be the best they can be. My current passion is to train other educators to become confident in their delivery and facilitation skills. Since I have taught and presented in every education environment, I’m sharing this experience with many others now. This will have a ripple effect on the whole industry by having more confident trainers and is inspiring me to contribute to sustainability in our industry, which is my greatest motivation. 24

I don’t have a regular working week; I have no routine at all since most of my time is spent travelling nationally or internationally conducting education events. I can spend a working week on any of the following tasks: performing a main stage show or delivering a conference keynote speech; facilitating a business seminar; prepping new content for presentations; teaching a hands-on workshop; personal coaching and mentoring; training with my team members; prepping models; shooting a collection or editorial spread; conducting media interviews and writing media articles; marketing and brand promotion; general admin; and relationship building and client contact. I have a great deal of diversity in what I do which keeps me constantly stimulated and productive. Work/life balance is a concept I have yet to fathom. Work to me is life, as it is ultimately what I enjoy doing!

Who are your favourite fashion designers? Alexander McQueen, Jean Paul Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood and Yohji Yamamoto. However, I tend to favour unknown emerging designers that I find on my travels.

What has been your proudest career moment to date? Every new experience can be considered a career highlight as it gives me an opportunity to grow and learn. However, it’s a privilege to be part of someone else's journey, so the greatest highlights are when someone else I teach has a proud learning experience. I’ve also been blessed to receive numerous awards, including receiving an Honorary Australian Masters - a title which was very humbling - and Educator of the Year numerous times. The latter is the closest award to my heart as it acknowledged my transformation from hairdresser to educator. I still pinch myself when I walk on to a stage in front of thousands of people as I headline an international show or as a keynote speaker. I cherish every one of these experiences.

Which cities do you find most inspiring? New York for the infectious energy; Taipei for the


hospitality; Singapore for the diverse culture; Liverpool for the humour; London for the fashion; Melbourne for the food; and Russia for the architecture.

How would you describe your hairdressing style? I would describe my signature style as graphic and strong, while retaining classic beauty and simplicity. Meticulous precision and technique is 100% in my approach, yet creativity is 100% in my vision. I believe it’s important to master the art of technique first and systemisation in your methods. Then set your imagination free to create your vision of a great outcome.

What’s your creative process when you start working on a collection? Our lead-time in planning a collection is usually three months. This allows sufficient time to build inspiration, organise logistics and develop the team collaboration. Occasionally we do this in less than one month if the need arises. I begin by selecting the team and people with the expertise to be involved. Then we start with a pre-production meeting to ensure we are all collaborating and contributing as a team. Next we design storyboards to create the synergy and build the concept, then we source the models. Lastly we select the hair looks as that is always the final factor, not the first, so we can ensure suitability to the model. The creative process is the fun part as it builds a story. When it’s all finished it is rewarding to see the result from your vision.

Which hair looks do you love right now? Hairdressing trends shift and change with each season’s fashion trends. Classic techniques are always crucial within any trends and the industry is shifting back to first-rate methodology. I’m loving that as a result, re-invented, timeless classics are the key looks for the season. Fashion inspiration is borrowed from the 70s, while the industrial mood of the 90s will influence lines and shapes. The renaissance era influences styling trends with vintage looks.

It’s the colour palette that is the most exciting right now, as the bright rainbows and ombres are starting to be replaced with more muted colour blending. Because of this, the distinctive tones and techniques for unique blends are the biggest statement for me right now.

What are your ‘can’t live without’ products and tools? Our industry is full of so many amazing products, tools and resources and I have way too many favourites to list them all! Being a brand neutral organisation, I get to work with numerous manufacturers and suppliers of outstanding products. In saying that I do have a soft spot for the new L’Oréal Professionnel Pro Fiber.

“It’s a privilege to be part of someone else's journey so the greatest highlights are when someone else I teach has a proud learning experience.” What do you know now that you wish you’d known when you first started hairdressing? I wish I had the maturity to understand that communication is the key to hairdressing, as I initially focused purely on the skills. Due to having brilliant training my driving force in the early years was on the craftsmanship and quality of work, which of course it still is. As time progressed, relationships developed and I began travelling; this is when I learnt to understand human behaviour so much more. This greatly improved my performance as a hairdresser, as an educator, as a team leader and as a business owner. Nothing can assist you more than life experience as long as you stay open-minded towards each new opportunity.

You are one of the judges for NZ L’Oréal Style & Colour Trophy this year. What are you going to be looking for and what advice can you give stylists and colourists who are entering? Produce an image that is striking, that captures an emotion and is beautiful. When entering an award such as L’Oréal Style & Colour Trophy, you need to think like you are producing a front cover of Vogue. Personally I will be looking for the full composition of the shot and a look that is sellable to the consumer. An avant-garde or super on-trend creative look does not have as much appeal; therefore produce an image that encapsulates beauty with some unique distinctiveness. Make sure the model is stunning and the look complements her features and suits her personally. Lastly, represent L’Oréal’s colour palette and the brand philosophy with beautiful, healthy hair.

What would you like to see more of from the hairdressing industry in future? There is a shift towards more live streaming, online tutorials and free education that is easily accessible. However, we need to stay mindful that this ultimately can drop the quality standards of work, as the engagement is lost so the memory retention of the knowledge won’t be as strong. No matter what education you choose, it needs to be real and relevant to every salon environment. I would like to see less quick fixes of inspiration that don’t provide results and super creative looks that are non-wearable, which don’t translate into a commercial viability. Ultimately I would like to see salons and stylists investing more into education as that is the driver for business development and personal growth. Nothing will ever replace real education no matter what new trends emerge. We are fortunate that our industry is one of the few remaining hands-on service industries that is still surviving. The industry needs to support each other and if you’re not this way inclined, it’s best to just focus on your own business and not get consumed by what other people are doing or thinking. 25


PROFILE

TIME OUT

WARDROBE

BAR: Seafarers at Britomart.

DENIM: Fabric-Brand & Co.

CLUB: Too old!

SHOES: Nike.

DRINK: Coca Cola.

SHIRTS: Ann Demeulemeester.

WEEKEND HANGOUT: At the moment, the beach. RESTAURANT: Blue Breeze Inn, Ponsonby. CHEAP EATS: Ponsonby Food Court. BINGE WATCH: Vinyl. DEATH-ROW MEAL: Go out hungry!

SUNGLASSES: Tom Ford. SHOPPING HAUNTS: Ebay. DESIGNER TO WATCH: Moreporks and La Tribe shoes. DAY-TO-DAY STYLE: Sneakers and jeans.

STYLE FILE

As one of Auckland's most in-demand hairdressers, Mobeen Bhikoo has launched his first independent venture with the opening of M11 Salon in Newmarket. He shares with us a few of his favourite things

POLISH HAIRDRESSER: Lauren Gunn in her new amazing space. STYLING PRODUCT: Botaniq, being launched in May. SHAMPOO: KEVIN.MURPHY MAXI.WASH. BEAUTY PRODUCT: Triumph & Disaster Rock & Roll Suicide Face Scrub.

CULTURE MUST-CHECK WEBSITE: siteinspire.com INSTAGRAM STALK: @churchboutique MUSIC FAVOURITES: 90's hip hop. GADGET: Fishing drone.

SIGNATURE SCENT: Comme des Garcons Monocle.

TRAVEL DESTINATION: Sri Lanka.

DESCRIBE M11 IN 10 WORDS: Fresh, new, collaborative, skilled, detailed, individual, challenging, well thought out, new-age depth.

ACTOR CRUSH: Eva Mendes.

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IT LOOKS A/W 2016 Nicole Warne wears this season’s It Look created with Majirel, tailor-made by her colourist

VIOLET WAVY BOB Bring this season’s hottest hair trends to your salon

Ask your L’Oréal Professionnel colour expert today


PROFILE

MASTERCLASS

in styling

Introducing Davines Your Hair Assistant, a new styling range conceived and designed by hair guru, Angelo Seminara

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“Your Hair Assistant marks a moment of rediscovery of the blow-drying art, as a form of expression and self-transformation, just like an accessory to be worn.”

T

he creative experience of Angelo Seminara, Davines Artistic Director and internationally renowned hairstylist, has been synergistically brought together with the scientific excellence of Davines' Research Laboratories to fulfil the dream of creating everyday, fine-art blow-dries at home as well as in the salon. This forms the basis of exciting new styling range, Your Hair Assistant. Angelo talks to Headway about his inspiration behind the line and what makes it stand apart from the rest.

What is the philosophy behind Your Hair Assistant? Your Hair Assistant is an integrated system of products and tools designed to create the perfect blow-dry, both in the salon and at home. The new line is the result of a reflection about the skill of blow-drying, a crucial moment in the salon experience, yet considered secondary in importance to cutting and colouring. Your Hair Assistant gives the opportunity to focus on the blow-dry - not as the final necessary step - but as the focal point which brings together the whole service. The products in the range are formulated to support personal inspiration, offering the highest performance in each phase of the creation of the hair style: from preparation, to styling, and finishing. Seven products correspond to the steps of the creation of the perfect look. Their identity is feminine and elegant, enclosed in carbon-neutral packaging, dominated by the contrast of black and mauve with a shiny finish.

What was your starting point for the development of the range and what was most important to you when creating these products? For me, it is essential to always be original during the creation phase of a project. Most of my ideas and

We love that Davines has put the formulation skills of its own research laboratories at the disposal of Angelo Seminara’s vision for the very first time. The products within the Your Hair Assistant line are formulated to support personal inspiration, offering the highest performance in each phase of the creation of the hair style: from preparation, to styling and finishing. Hello to Prep Shampoo, Prep Mild Cream and Prep Rich Balm; Blowdry Primer, Definition Mist, Perfecting Hairspray and Volume Creator. With a sophisticated fragrance - a bouquet of jasmine and mint - all products are also enclosed in Zero Impact® packaging.

inspiration come from nature and being very aware of what’s happening in the world and in everyday life. I store lots of ideas, play with them and then settle on the right one for the right job. It took three years to develop Your Hair Assistant, along with constant attempts and reformulations. I am a perfectionist and throughout my career I have used many products by different brands, often mixing them because I was never happy with the result. This is why I wanted to create a line whose products would work in synergy and complement one another. I am really happy with the result. I have been wanting to realise this project for a long time, but only with a brand in which I believed and that would share my vision of sustainability. I chose Davines because I trust them and feel safe with them.

Do you have any personal favourites within the collection? I honestly love all of them, every single one, but I absolutely love the Perfecting Hairspray. The secret is lightness and workability. Many hairsprays have a direct diffusion, and when sprayed on, they can be heavy and ruin the style you are creating. The diffusion of this product is very delicate and this is its strength. Another favourite is the Volume Creator, a texturizing powder with a 100% natural formula: 50% coconut powder and 50% bamboo powder. It has a matte effect, it protects hair from humidity, gives texture to the hair and creates natural and lasting volume, leaving no residue. The formula is free of parabens and contains no fragrance.

What would you say sets this styling range apart from the competitors? It's the simplicity in the usage. All Your Hair Assistant products are ultra-light, easy to use, invisible, reworkable and allow very modern results. The range fits into a market

not so exploited, thus contributing significantly to the success of the Davines salons expanding their services portfolio. In addition, the products are perfect for continued use both in-salon and at home, leaving hair light and bright, exalting the natural shine.

Hair looks you're loving right now, in terms of styling and colour? I’m really starting to enjoy honey blondes, rich brunettes and beautiful intense reds with golden brown reflections. I also like to mix cool and warm colours to create modern, striking effects. I love to use Flamboyage Meche, the tool I’ve created in collaboration with Davines, which is a transparent adhesive strip that helps select a random quantity of hair to be coloured. The random selection guarantees an extremely blended result that helps to enhance the reflections of natural and coloured hair. The result is very natural, very modern. Concerning styling, hair will have a lot more texture. You will need to start preparing the base with the YHA Blowdry Primer. You can use different techniques (braiding, curlers or hot tools) to create the desired texture and give natural volume to the hair. It's great to mix up different techniques. 29


FILM

PROFILE

Pulp Fiction. Uma Thurman is a standout; "I wanna dance, I wanna win. I want that trophy, so dance good."

DESIGNER

Maxine Wooldridge from DMONIC INTENT. She styled my International Trend Vision model and it blew my mind!

HAIR PRODUCT Wella Perfect Me BB Lotion.... it’s aaaaamazing.

MY FAVOURITE

things

TRAVEL DESTINATION

GORE HAIRDRESSER, MIKAELA EDWARDS FROM RUNWAY, REPRESENTED NEW ZEALAND AT THE INTERNATIONAL Paris. I was there a couple of months ago and fully immersed myself in the TREND VISION AWARDS 2015 IN BERLIN, WINNING THE city. I fell in love with it. PRESTIGIOUS YOUNG TALENT GOLD; A FIRST FOR KIWI HAIRDRESSING. HERE, MIKAELA TALKS FASHION FAVOURITES AND SWEET INDULGENCES

ACTOR

INSPIRATIONAL HAIRDRESSERS

Drew Barrymore is a classic and a beauty.

Frank Apostolopoulos and Lyndal Salmon to name just a few, but if I had to name all of them, we would be here for days!

WEBSITE

I wouldn't even know where to begin! Company of Strangers have beautiful garments so I always check out their site compananyofstrangers.co.nz

INDULGENCE

I love fashion and could spend hours looking through Vogue. Also, I have the world’s sweetest tooth, so a cheeky wee Pinky bar is always delish. 30

MUSIC

Rihanna is so good and definitely my fave at the moment, but my all-time favourite song is Elton John’s Tiny Dancer.

RESTAURANT

Rata in Queenstown is so amazing.


ARE YOU THE PAINTBOX

2016? Enter to win the Fudge Professional official title and the chance to work with the industry colour experts on a Fudge Professional shoot plus much more! Visit fudgeprofessional.com to enter your creation. Terms and conditions apply.

A PIGMENT OF YOUR IMAGINATION new creative semi - permanent conditioning colour

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10 optimised core shades designed to be intermixed providing a limitless pallete of bespoke colours from soft pastels to bold vibrant mixes. Dual conditioning system to care and protect, with moisturising agents and keratin proteins to help repair from within - giving lasting glossy shine. 31


PROFILE

TURNING

heads

Joico celebrity colourist and international spokesperson, Denis de Souza, talks colour trends and shares his love of Joico's newest colour addition, LumiShine

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Brazilian native, Denis de Souza has been educated all over the world, developing a passion for hair colour and an international eye for style at a very young age. After initial work experience in the fashion industry as a model, he devoted himself to colouring, starting out in one of the most prestigious salons in Los Angeles, the John Frieda salon, training with world-renowned colourist Jonathan Gale. Denis now works at the illustrious Andy Lecompte Salon in West Hollywood, California, and is known as the 'King Of Colour'. He is credited with creating some of the most sought-after celebrity custom looks, as seen on Olivia Wilde, Mila Kunis, Jamie Chung, Rachel Bilson and Nicole Richie. Since partnering with Joico, Denis has been bringing his passion and international eye for colour and luxe techniques to the brand...and an even larger audience.

What are you loving most about Joico LumiShine colour? The end result! It gives such rich, vibrant shine - it’s really one of those things you have to see to believe. I've been travelling all over the U.S, and I just returned from Europe to help launch LumiShine there. It’s been such a pleasure to launch this colour line because it’s simple yet the results are phenomenal. You’re really able to create all those popular, very wearable, money-making colours that clients want. The colour is not only beautiful and unbelievably lustrous but also leaves hair healthy and strong too.

What do you think differentiates this colour line from competitors? The shine factor for sure. There’s nothing like it, especially when you combine that with how conditioned and nourished the hair is after the colour process. It’s truly a range that re-strengthens hair while delivering gorgeous shine and condition.

What colour techniques are you enjoying using on your clients right now? Sombré is one of those looks that won’t be going anywhere soon. It's becoming a classic, like the bob is for hair styling. It’s very popular in the major cities and metropolitan areas of the U.S. and all along both coasts, and I find that trends take time to permeate throughout the rest of the culture and other parts of the world, so they often have a longer life than what one might expect. I still do many variations of sombré and tons of 32

babylights, which give a softer look that appears very natural and works for everyone.

What are the hottest colour trends currently? Right now, you are seeing a dichotomy in colour. On the one side you have strikingly bright and intense fashion colours, like what we’re used to seeing on Katy Perry and Nicki Minaj. It used to be only young girls who explored this or celebs, but with the colour options now available, the age boundaries are being crossed completely. On the other side you have your commercial salon colour, your very wearable and beautiful colour; subtlety is the word here. It’s the seamless blending of shades that show rich dimension without stark breaks between shades and hues; from rich brunettes with highlights, to blondes with babylights. Even in the bold fashion colour arena, you have a more subtle gradation and blending or “melting” amid contrasting colour changes.

What are your must-have products currently? Joico Color Balance Blue Shampoo and Conditioner. So many brunettes come into my salon wanting sombré, subtle hints of highlights, softly lightened strands – really just a beautifully highlighted, dimensional brunette, and I suggest Joico Color Balance Blue to these clients because it keeps the colour from turning brassy and maintains that salon-fresh look longer. Strictly from a colour professional's point of view, I love Joico Vero K-PAK Crème Lightener because I can achieve multiple things using that product. And I think LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid glosses are a great way to win over a new-to-colour client who


might be a little hesitant to have a full-on colour change. It's also a great product for helping retain your frequent colour client business - it's an easy and instant colourrefresher that leaves hair conditioned and healthy.

Who are a few of your favourite celebrity clients? I love all of them. I have never had a bad experience with my celebrity clientele. They come to me because someone they know (friends, publicists, other actors) recommend them to me, or they might have read about me somewhere. That means they feel confident and trust me whenever they have a seat at my chair. Some of my current celebrities include Olivia Wilde, Jenna Dewan Tatum, Ashlee Simpson, Lily Collins and Lena Headey amongst others.

perhaps start setting the trend in your community and that’s special.

What have been your favourite celebrity hair colours past and present? I have many and it changes all the time. In the past, I think Madonna throughout her whole career has been able to change styles and had confidence in whatever hair colour she was rocking at the time. I think she has always done it to perfection. Most recently, I like Gisele Bundchen. Hers is the number one most asked-for colour. She’s just consistently great; perfect waves and low-maintenance highlights that frame her features like nothing else. Kate Moss is another good one. She’s more adventurous with her blondes; sometimes ashier/brighter and other times warmer/deeper, but any tone of blonde looks great on her.

Are you involved much with editorial work? I don’t really work much with editorial; I don’t get involved with a lot of “set” work. But many times, my clients get their hair coloured knowing they will be shooting for campaigns, starting a movie or show, or be on the red carpet, and the colour is usually done a few days prior to their event. I have coloured hair for many campaigns, like Lanvin, Dior, and the new Gucci campaign coming out soon with Jared Leto. The one that I'm most proud of however is the campaign I shot for Joico's new baby – LumiShine! I was there from the beginning to the end, and it felt great being part of the creation of something that I truly LOVE!

“Sombré is one of those looks that won’t be going anywhere soon. It's becoming a classic, like the bob is for hair styling.”

What is your hair and beauty philosophy? I always think outside of the box. I don't follow trends (trends are to be created not followed in my opinion) and I keep reinventing my style all the time. Listening to what your clients want is key too. Sometimes they say one thing such as, “I want to look like so and so” but as a professional, you have to take that and make it work for them; make it their own and make it natural to them.

What's inspiring you currently? Many things inspire me. I love looking at fashion magazines, watching movies (old and new), going to museums, art in general really. But what truly inspires me is just walking around all the cities and countries I visit and looking at everyone’s hair, seeing how each city responds to different trends. Do they follow any trend at all, or are they more natural? I realize that the most inspirational hair comes from people that actually don’t follow trends too much but enhance what they already have. That way you

Colour your world Joico's latest advancement in colour technology has everyone buzzing. LumiShine Repair + Permanent Creme and Demi-Permanent Liquid Colour has the ability to replenish hair and give an unbeatable healthylooking shine. Best of all, the pre-blended colour line is incredibly easy to use, yet sacrifices none of the results that colourists and their clients demand. Transforming hair from the inside out with breakthrough ArgiPlex Technology, LumiShine promises twice the shine, 100% replenished and re-strengthened hair, and nourishing protection that seals in moisture, softness and shine for up to 30 full shampoos. Offering the easiest possible colour solution for every salon service and hair type imaginable, here's three reasons pros love LumiShine… • Ease of use. Three simple steps to brilliant colour - consultation, formulation, and application. • It’s predictable, reliable and straightforward. A full spectrum of perfectly balanced, intermixable pre-blended shades allows you to deliver straight-from-the-tube (or bottle) colour perfection every time. • It smells amazing! LumiShine is formulated with Joico’s exclusive Gentle Fresh Fragrance technology, a patented combination of molecules that helps neutralize airborne ammonia and envelopes the colour service in calming notes of bergamot, iris, and sandalwood. Client comfort is off the charts.

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PROFILE

behind the CHAIR

Five minutes with award-winning Goldwell Global Creative Ambassador, Mark Leeson

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ark Leeson is undoubtedly one of the UK's most respected hairdressers. Renowned for his excellent colour work, stunning creativity and ability to educate, inspire and motivate, Leeson has an endless list of awards to his name and is consistently nominated for the prestigious British Hairdresser of the Year Award, having won this accolade in 2014. Known for producing the most beautiful and striking collections, Mark is the Global Creative Ambassador for Goldwell and is loving what Goldwell's new Kerasilk Premium Hair Care Collection is doing for his clients hair...and his salon business. Extensive research and development, advanced technologies, high-end ingredients and premium fragrances have combined to create four new in-salon Kerasilk treatments, with the flexibility to use a multi-layered approach to meet the most demanding of hair needs. Complimenting these are a range of take-home products, which ensure long-lasting hair health and environmental protection. 34

Here, Mark shares with us the benefits of Kerasilk, his career highlights, and trends for 2016.

As Goldwell’s Global Creative Ambassador, what drew you to working with the brand initially and what do you enjoy most about your role? For me, it's about product performance above and beyond anything else. I am a colourist, so the colour I use has to be the best and there was no doubt in my mind when I started working with Goldwell that this was the most superior colour I had ever used. I love Elumen; it is incredible and allows me to create such a vast range of colours and be completely creative. The aspect of my role that I most enjoy is educating and sharing my knowledge with hairdressers around the world. I find it so rewarding seeing people learn and improve their skills. I also love the travelling, and performing shows for large audiences. It's such a buzz to be showcasing my looks and see people all over the world appreciate my work – it’s always worth the effort.

Goldwell’s new Kerasilk Collection has just launched in New Zealand. Can you tell us what’s so unique about the range and what you love most about

using it? I am a huge fan of Kerasilk and have been very much involved in the launch and development of this range. There’s nothing quite like it in the hairdressing market right now. There is a range of in-salon services that can be completely customised to your clients needs, such as Kerasilk Control - a Keratin Treatment Service, which lasts 3-5 months and literally transforms hair from frizzy and unmanageable, to smooth and incredibly manageable. The range also includes take-home regimes, which offer everything the client needs to maintain their amazing hair at home. For me, I love the level of technology and development that has gone into this….it is so superior.

How do you think salons and clients will benefit from having Kerasilk in-salon? Well, it’s been a great business opportunity for us because we are able to offer additional services to genuinely solve clients problems. Anything that ensures we are catering for our clients needs in a more effective way can only help position us as hair experts.

What’s inspiring you currently in terms of cuts and colours?


I think super-straight hair will make a comeback this summer, as seen on the S/S16 runways (Givenchy, Mary Katrantzou, Alexander Wang). I’m constantly inspired by the runways and once again pastel hair is a big trend. Louis Vuitton featured baby pastel pink at their recent show, so expect plenty more colour to come through this season.

You are renowned for your award-winning collection work. What is the creative process like for you to get there? I generally start with a concept that’s mostly derived from the catwalks and trends that I see coming through. I then spend a huge amount of time developing the concept and exploring how I can create an image that goes the extra mile and really pushes boundaries. My schedule is extremely busy and I have weeks where I am working constantly and flying all over the place, so I try and take time out to refresh and have a break as much as possible. It's often those times, when I am on the beach, or relaxed in a completely tranquil environment, that I will start to develop my ideas. You definitely need some head space in order to create something special.

How important is fashion to you in your work? Massively important – I love fashion. I love seeing the trends evolving and it is very closely linked to what I am doing.

What has been your most humbling moment as an artist? There have been two. Winning British Hairdresser of the Year was a dream come true. I could not, and in many ways can still not, believe that I won. For my entire career I had worked towards that goal, so when it finally happened it was very surreal. The second was when I did the Tribute show last year. It was at one of London’s most prestigious theatres, and to see all my peers in the audience watching me create was just incredible. I was very humbled and touched by the whole experience.

What drew you to hairdressing initially? I either wanted to work in fashion (designing) or in hair. I just loved the hairdressing industry and felt that I had something to offer, so there really was no other option. Hairdressing was where my destiny took me.

What are your must-have styling products currently? Goldwell StyleSign Glamour Whip Mousse - amazing for volume and prepping hair. I also love Magic Finish Hairspray. It gives hair a lovely shine and yet is really easy to brush out.

Who has influenced you most in your career? Trevor Sorbie has always been my hairdressing icon. He’s remarkable and I love the level of success he has achieved; his work still inspires me today. However, on a day-to-day basis, my team are a constant source of inspiration. They are so dedicated and creative and it’s an honour to share the journey with them.

Best tips for success? Never, ever, give up. You will have many challenges, knock-backs and falls along the way, but if you want something badly enough and are willing to work hard, you will get there one day. 35


PROFILE

best

TRESSED Nicole Warne and Josephine De La Baume take the plunge to transform their look, as the ‘It’ girls of L’Oréal Professionnel’s seasonal colour campaign

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’Oréal Professionnel introduces two new faces for their It Looks autumn/winter 2016 trend collection; Nicole Warne of Gary Pepper Vintage blog fame and Joséphine De La Baume, actress, model and singer. In the hands of celebrity hairstylist Sam McKnight, Nicole’s hair was transformed into three looks optimising its depth and shine; a modern 20s bob, the 'wob' and wet look. L’Oréal Professionnel’s colour master, Frédéric Mennetrier experimented with Nicole’s dark hair using L’Oréal Professionnel Majirel Vibrant in Violet - almost like an accessory. For gorgeous redhead Josephine, Sam created a fresh and natural wild copper contouring, ultra-glamorous Hollywood waves and a messy braid. Frédéric worked with Majirel Vibrant to add the copper shade and lighten sections around the hairline to enhance Joséphine’s skin tone. The technique makes it possible to sculpt the cheekbones, give depth to her curls, and add texture to her mane of hair. Here the girls talk about the role hair plays in their lives.


ne r a W le o ic N She is one of the most influential fashion bloggers in the world with her famous Gary Pepper blog and collaborates with prestigious names such as Louis Vuitton, Dolce & Gabbana and Roland Mouret. This season, Nicole became one of the new faces of the hotly-anticipated L’Oréal Professionnel A/W ’16 It Looks Collection.

What made you want to collaborate with L’Oréal Professionnel? For me, it’s an iconic brand, pioneering the most desirable hair trends each season. It embodies a passion for innovation, technology and excellence when it comes to its products. I like working with brands that I sincerely believe in.

Did the fact it is a professional brand influence you in your choice? Of course, because for me fashion and beauty go hand-in-hand. L’Oréal Professionnel is always connected to the world of fashion. The brand is found backstage at fashion shows all over the world, for both hair care and styling. And it is also part of my hair care routine at home.

Does hair play an important role in your look? Yes, because it reflects my personality and my mood, and so it influences the way in which I reveal my identity. Generally speaking, your cut, colour and hairstyle hone your style and add the finishing touch to an outfit or makeup. For example, if I want to soften my eyes, I choose loose curls. For an elegant and masculine look, I prefer a tight ponytail. For an evening with friends, I create softly brushed waves, which adds a touch of femininity.

What is your hair care routine? I use the new Pro Fiber range from L’Oréal Professionnel. These products are fabulous! They repair the hair fibre with long-lasting results. I also love the fragrance in my hair; it’s addictive. For styling, I use Pli by Tecni.Art to create large loose curls with my straightener. I can create a subtle wave in about four minutes.

Do you go to the hairdressers often? I generally style my hair myself. For an event or a photo session, I put my head in the hands of a professional hairdresser in Australia. In France, I’ve discovered Frédéric Mennetrier’s work thanks to my collaboration with L’Oréal Professionnel and I think that what he does is fabulous. Since I had my hair coloured for the L’Oréal Professionnel campaign, I go to my colourist every four weeks, because I live close to the beach, so the salt and sea affect the tones.

You tried the new Majirel Vibrant violet shade. What do you think? It’s the first time that I’ve had my hair coloured. With my Asian background, I always thought that I had a limited choice when it came to colouring my black hair. Now I realise that in the hands of a great colourist there are lots of options. After using a light brown, Frédéric added a subtle violet, which is most visible when my hair catches the light. I’ve become addicted to the colour! 37


e

aum B a L e D e séphin

Jo

An actress, singer and model, the beautiful Joséphine De La Baume is an accomplished woman. On top of her many talents, she sets the trend with her striking strawberry blonde locks, the combination of which makes her the perfect fit as one of L’Oréal Professionnel’s new ‘It Looks’ faces.

What made you want to collaborate with L’Oréal Professionnel? It’s a highly renowned, intergenerational and relevant brand. I’m delighted to have been chosen by this legendary company; this brand is synonymous with trends, fashion and innovation.

Does hair play an important role in your look? Yes, very. I might not look like it, but I’m a real tomboy in everyday life. My brother always says that my hair is the only feminine thing about me! So I attach a lot of importance to it.

What’s your hair care routine? I brush my hair before washing, shampoo, and then condition just the lengths and ends. I use a hair dryer and my fingers to smooth it out, while keeping a bit of 38

volume. For a wilder look, I use Wild Stylers Beach Waves Texturising Salt Spray. In the summer, I let my hair dry naturally for a relaxed, beachy wave.

Do you go to the hairdresser often? Yes, Paolo Ferreira cuts my hair in Paris. When it comes to my colour, I visit my colourist every 4 to 5 weeks to maintain it. On this shoot, it was an honour to have Frédéric Mennetrier colour my hair. Sam McKnight, one of the best hairstylists, created the style. It was such a pleasure to work with someone so creative.

If you’re spending the evening with friends, what hairstyle do you choose? Normally, I would leave my hair to take its own course with bed-head natural waves. But for special occasions, I like to feel a bit more glamorous so I try things like low sixties-style ponytails, which add volume at the crown and accentuate my cheekbones.

What colour suits you best? Strawberry blonde! It’s a colour that really flatters my skin tone. I enhance my colour with subtle tones to suit my freckles.

You tried contouring with Majirel Vibrant. What did you think? It’s great! It looks very natural and gives my hair more texture and luminosity. It created a sun-kissed effect on my hair, like I had just come back from holiday. The colour is really vibrant, stays glossy and doesn’t damage my hair.


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L’Oréal style & colour trophy

L'Oreal UK Colour Trophy Winner 2015 Abacus Hair

NZ AWARDS

AWARDS 2016 Make your mark as the winner of New Zealand’s most prestigious hairdressing award, as the event enters an inspiring new phase

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ear after year, L’Oréal has hosted the highest profile names in the hairdressing industry as they enter, judge and creatively present as part of the L’Oréal Colour Trophy Awards. Revered the world over for its hairdressing talent, the prestigious event attracts an impressive following in both consumer and trade press, online, and through attending audiences. This year, the event enters a new phase. To make it easier to enter, all judging is based on photographic entries alone rather than live recreation. L’Oréal is also proud to announce that for the first time the New Zealand winner gets the opportunity to showcase their talent to the world

at the global finals in Lisbon, Portugal. L’Oréal’s vision for the 2016 L’Oréal Style & Colour Trophy Awards is to create an event that showcases the strong and rewarding partnership between L’Oréal Professionnel and New Zealand hairdressing. Prepare yourself for an unforgettable night dedicated to sharing and celebrating hair, beauty and fashion in a unique, immersive and aspirational way. L’Oréal Professional Products Division General Manager, Gary Marshall, says it’s a great opportunity for stylists to demonstrate their creative hairdressing skills to a panel of industry leaders. “For our 21st anniversary, we have


FORMER SUPREME AWARD WINNER REBECCA BRENT OF WELLINGTON SALON WILLIS YORK SAYS AUTHENTICITY IS THE KEY TO A WINNING IMAGE.

of the colourist to create a bespoke look. "An image that tells a story, embodies a mood and conveys effortless, uncontrived style will always stand out for me. Timeless, beautiful images need to be executed with a fresh approach where the hair is the number one element of the whole look,” says Marr, while Hughes adds it's important the overall look is suitable for consumers. “Produce “Research hair colour directions and cuts for 2016 and an image that is striking, captures beyond, and find the perfect model to bring your emotion and is beautiful. Think like interpretation of this to life. Have fun, love your image you are producing a front cover for and be proud of your work - that's what's Vogue. Personally, I will be looking for the most important.” full composition of the shot and a look that is sellable to the consumer. An avant-garde or super modernised on-trend creative look does not have as much appeal; the format. There will therefore produce an image that encapsulates beauty with be no recreation at the awards night, making it more some unique distinctiveness.” accessible for all stylists to enter. This will be a true The L’Oréal Style & Colour Trophy Awards 2016 celebration of New Zealand hairdressing talent, with the comprises eight awards, including three individual awards, most sophisticated and exclusive awards event that we one team award and four special awards. have ever held. We are thrilled to be able to offer the New Zealand Hairdresser of the Year the opportunity to L’Oréal Style & Colour Trophy New Zealand compete at the first ever Global Style & Colour Trophy Hairdresser of the Year in Portugal. I look forward to seeing our incredible New • Entrants compete for New Zealand’s most sought after Zealand talent showcased on the local and international and prestigious hairdressing accolade. stage.” • 10 finalists are selected from photographic entries The exclusive, invitation-only awards evening celebrates submitted. L’Oréal’s 21 year legacy with a brand new experience, • One winner, one second place and one third place are recognising New Zealand hairdressers who push the selected from 10 finalists. boundaries in fashion-forward hair colour and design. For • The winner receives: a trip for winner and model to the first time, second and third places will be awarded in compete in the Global Awards in Lisbon, October 2016, the Supreme category. to the value of $15,000; media coverage and publicity, The 2016 event also sees the introduction of three additional awards... • Colour Award and Cut & Style Award - both recognise entries that demonstrate exceptional talent in one specific area of hairdressing. Each award is offered to a separate winner. • People’s Choice Award - all entries are uploaded to L’Oréal Professionnel’s Facebook page and voting from the public can take place. One winner is selected. Ten finalists will be selected from the photographic entries submitted and will be announced June 17th. Winners and recipients of special awards are to be announced at the awards evening - July 30th at St Matthews-in-the-City, Auckland. The judges this year are renowned NZ hairstylist and entrepreneur Stephen Marr, and iconic Australian hairdresser, educator and media personality, Tracey Hughes. The judges are looking for hairdressers who can execute an inspirational modern colour, creating a stunning photographic entry that demonstrates a beautiful, editorial style and finish. Entrants must show skill in the colour, style, cut and finish. The colour work should reflect the professional difference, showing off the expertise and ability

including coverage in Headway and MiNDFOOD magazine; an engraved trophy and salon marketing support; and a fashion and beauty prize pack to the value of $1,000. Second and third place receive a framed certificate and a fashion and beauty prize pack to the value of $500.

Young Talent Award • Celebrating the next generation of hairdressing. • The award is for hairdressers with experience of five years or less. • One winner is selected from 10 finalists.

The Men’s Image Award • Influencing men’s hair fashion by creating a leading edge vision and style for men. • One winner is selected from five finalists.

The Salon of the Year Award • Two looks to be created with the creativity and inspirational input of the salon team. • Salon team may consist of up to six people, including colourists, hairdressers, stylists and makeup artists who work together to create the entry. • One winner is selected from five finalists.

All winners of the above awards will receive media coverage and publicity, including coverage in Headway and MiNDFOOD magazines; a framed certificate, salon marketing support and a fashion and beauty prize pack to the value of $1,000

SPECIAL AWARDS These awards are for individuals who have shown outstanding technical skill in creating a unique look that comes to life in print.

Headway Magazine Award • A winner is selected from all photographic entries submitted. • The award is judged by the best overall collection of two photographs as a portfolio of shots that work well together. • Judges choose one winner. • The winner receives: a feature in Headway magazine, including creative images and an article about the winner, and a framed certificate to display in-salon.

MiNDFOOD Magazine Award • A winner is selected from all photographic entries submitted. • The award is judged to be the best editorially-inspired look, appealing to the fashion-focused MiNDFOOD reader. • Judges choose one winner. • The winner receives: a feature in MiNDFOOD magazine including creative images and an article about the winner and a framed certificate to display in-salon.

BONUS AWARDS Colour Award and Cut & Style Award • The awards recognise entries that demonstrate exceptional talent in one specific area of hairdressing. • The winner of each award is selected from the 10 finalists of L’Oréal Style & Colour Trophy Supreme Award. • Each winner receives a framed certificate and a fashion and beauty prize pack to the value of $500.

People’s Choice Award • All finalists from all categories are automatically eligible for this award. • Photographs are uploaded and showcased on the L’Oréal Professionnel Facebook page by 5pm June 24th 2016. The competition and voting then begins. • All photos remain online and open for voting until 1pm on July 25th 2016. • One winner is selected based on the public vote.

KEY DATES

• Entries open – Now. • Entries close – 27th May, 2016 • Finalists announced - 17th June, 2016 • L’Oréal Style & Colour Trophy Awards Event – 30th July, 2016

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NZ AWARDS

CREATIVITY unleashed

INDUSTRY Extracted is happening May 8th and the highlight is the celebration of some of the finest hairdressing talent in the country: the INDUSTRY NZ Hairdressing Awards. Here are the finalists for 2016‌

INDUSTRY NZ HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR FINALISTS (from top left clockwise): Anne Marie Young, Jingles Hair Design; Lenard Johnston, Dharma; Michael Beel, Buoy Hairdressing; Cheryl Fafeita, Mane Salon.

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INDUSTRY COLOURIST OF THE YEAR FINALISTS (from top left clockwise): Janine Simons, Mane Salon; Keegan Nelson, Common Thread; Mana Dave, Blaze; Wei Jiang, Buoy Hairdressing.

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INDUSTRY EMERGING STYLIST OF THE YEAR FINALISTS (from top left clockwise): Kaleb Pritchard, Dharma; Ruth Irwin, Oscar & Co; Ella Pixie, Hair Raiser; Kiri Roberts, Mane Salon.

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INDUSTRY MEN’S HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR FINALISTS (from top left clockwise): Michael Beel, Buoy Hairdressing; Brad Lepper, French Revolver; Anne Marie Young, Jingles Hair Design; Tony Wilson, Raven Haircutters.

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INDUSTRY NEWCOMER OF THE YEAR FINALISTS (from top left clockwise): Kelly Manu, Blaze; Jenny Eastwood, Morph Hair; Claire McFarlane, Zibido; Marque Morehu, Rodney Wayne Northlands.

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INDUSTRY SALON TEAM OF THE YEAR FINALISTS (from top left clockwise): Three Hairdressing, Whangarei; Blaze, Auckland; Sliver, Dunedin; Oscar & Co, Auckland; Common Thread, Pukekohe; French Revolver, Auckland.

PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE YEAR FINALISTS FINALISTS (not shown): Nina Van Lier for Kaleb Pritchard; Dave Richards for Michael Beel; Karen Ishiguro for Three Hairdressing; Troy Goodall for Brad Lepper.

EDITORIAL STYLIST OF THE YEAR FINALISTS (not shown): Michael Beel, Buoy Hairdressing; Lenard Johnston, Dharma; Chetan Mongia, Strickzin Salon.

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NZ AWARDS

best

IN BUSINESS Wanganui's Protégé Hairdressing won the 2015 New Zealand Salon of the Year accolade at the Kitomba NZARH Business Awards 2015. Protégé owners Tiffiny Spencer and Kate Watson discuss what makes a winning team

H

ow did it feel to take out four wins at the Kitomba Business Awards 2015, especially Salon of the Year?

It was a huge honour to win the four awards, especially the Kitomba NZARH 2015 Salon of the Year. This has been a goal for us since before we opened six years ago and we are thrilled to have achieved this. Together with our team, we couldn't have hoped for a better result!

How did the process of entering the awards help you as a business owner? Entering the awards is a great way to really examine your systems, procedures and practices, and identify areas that really work for you, along with areas that may have opportunities for growth or change. Every year since the year before we opened the salon, we have used the awards entry form to extend and improve our practices. This, alongside some awesome business coaching from KDI, lots of research and hard work, is how we developed the structure we now use for running our salon.

What is the Protégé philosophy and what do you believe it offers clients? 48

Our philosophy encompasses many things; from the smallest detail all the way through to the clients complete experience in the salon. As a team of expert stylists, we are dedicated to delivering excellence in service, skill and advice in a clean, luxurious, and relaxing environment. This gives clients an overall experience and results that are second to none.

How do you set yourself apart from your competitors? Consistency, attention to detail, client care and the level of training we provide our staff are all huge factors when we think of our point of difference. Ultimately though, what sets us apart most is our team, their skill level, passion and commitment to giving 100% to every client, every time. This is not something that happens on its own; we invest a lot of time in planning, training, monitoring, measuring and cultivating this - and you're not done once this culture is established. Maintaining the standard is equally as important and often challenging.

How would you describe the look and feel of the salon? Modern, clean, professional and welcoming. Our layout is carefully designed to allow privacy for clients at the basin


WINNING FORM Congratulations to the 2015 winners of the Kitomba NZARH Business Awards who were... Business Stylist of the Year: Cathy Davys, VIVO, Wellington Sustainable Salon of the Year: The Powder Room, Wellington Fastest Growing Salon: Rodney Wayne Bethlehem, Tauranga Employer of Choice: Protégé Hair, Wanganui Evo Excellence in Marketing: Protégé Hair, Wanganui Best Salon Design: Luca Hairstyling, Wellington Moroccanoil Boutique Salon of the Year: Protégé Hair, Wanganui Cloud Nine Grand Salon of the Year: Rodney Wayne Bethlehem, Tauranga Lakme Best New Entrant: Colors Hair Company, Hamilton Kitomba NZARH New Zealand Salon of the Year: Protégé Hair, Wanganui

area, plenty of room for clients and stylists in the main salon area, and a spacious reception area. We focus heavily on cleanliness, general presentation and ensuring our retail areas are always well stocked and laid out. The music is carefully selected and set at a low to medium volume - this allows for the buzz of the salon to contribute to the atmosphere without interfering with the clients relaxing experience. A lot of the 'feel' of our salon comes from how our team interact with each other and the salon guests. We do a lot of training around greeting and caring for clients during their visit to the salon, communication between team members, and other polishing training for things such as tone of voice, facial expression, body language and words or phrases to use.

What motivates you personally and professionally each day? We are both success-driven people, so the desire to always improve upon and extend everything we do motivates us daily. We also find having each other and such an awesome team to work with keeps that motivation and momentum going.

What direction do you see Protege taking in the future? We will continue building a highly-skilled, passionate team that care about their clients, our community and each other. We love the fact we are all friends, as well as co-workers, and that has become a huge part of our salon culture. We are looking forward to cultivating more young stylists and seeing each of them succeed and become stars in their own right. 49


NEW PRODUCTS

1 2 3 3 OF THE BEST‌ Revive styles, adding matte volume to roots and body to lengths with Brelil Hair BB Powder. This dry volumiser offers texture, brightens hair colour, removes excess oil and holds your style without weighing it down. From PHB. Moroccanoil Dry Shampoo features two colour-specific formulas: one to preserve blondes and one to maintain the richness of darker hues. With natural volumising agents, this formula instantly refreshes, cleans and revitalizes. Living Proof PhD Dry Shampoo is powered by Triple-Action Cleaning Technology that makes hair look and feel beautiful. Removing oil and odour, this hair saviour also releases a light, clean fragrance throughout the day. From Dateline.

Powered By Nature We already have our favourites from the Neuma Beautiful Sustainable range. neuVolume Shampoo is a gentle, sulfate-free cleanser that leaves hair feeling thick, full and static-free, while neuMoisture Intensive Masque is a rich, hydrating treat, perfect for maximising colour retention, and adding smoothness and shine. From Haircare NZ.

PRODUCT

watch

A gentle, sulfate-free cleanser that leaves hair feeling thick, full and static-free

Light Luxury Grey Power De Lorenzo Novafusion Grey Shampoo protects naturally white hair from yellow tones and dullness. Including UV inhibitors and botanical extracts to improve condition and shine, this gentle cleanser also contains colour-enhancing natural extracts to keep hair steel grey and gorgeous. From Professional Hair Brands.

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More lightweight than regular conditioners, KĂŠrastase Elixir Ultime Oil-in-Conditioner has a creamy texture which coats the hair fiber to detangle and deeply nourish without weighing it down. This luxe product joins two other new editions to the Elixir Ultime range: Volume Beautifying Mist Oil and renovated Elixir Ultime Oil.

Sun Daze Davines SU Sun Hair Mask is a complete antiageing treatment to replace softness, moisture and shine to even the driest and most opaque hair. With a floral, fruity and woody fragrance, this divine hair restorer is the perfect hot climate travel companion. From Boutique Brands.


Next-level salon products and service. boutiquebrands.co.nz

f. @boutiquebrandsnz i. @boutiquebrandsnz

e. hello@boutiquebrands.co.nz t. 0800 25 25 30


NEW PRODUCTS

1 2 3 3 OF THE BEST‌ Build a shiny, structured style which lasts with Fudge Skyscraper Extra. This infinitely firm, fine and dry mist hairspray is resistant to humidity and heat, and promises to never let your hair down. From CS Company. R+Co Vicious Strong Hold Flexible Hairspray is the ultimate way to hold a finished look. You can brush through it without having your hair crack or flake, for immaculate style and restyling all night long. From Boutique Brands. Redken Triple Take 32 gives hair long-lasting body, protects from frizz and adds 24-hour control and anti-humidity protection, without the crunch. Perfect for creating voluminous waves, sculptured styles or an elegant up-do.

Soft Touch

PRODUCT

watch

Weightless and nourishing, this hair refresher repairs, creates body and volume, prevents split ends and frizz

Fight gravity with R+Co Analog Cleansing Foam Conditioner. Softening and conditioning colour-treated, dehydrated or coarse hair, this multi-purpose product contains argan oil for nourishing, green tea and horsetail extract for strength, and nettle leaf extract for shine and damage control. From Boutique Brands.

One-Step Wonder A restorative, restructuring mousse for all hair types, Brelil BB Mousse has multiple benefits. Weightless and nourishing, this hair refresher repairs, creates body and volume, prevents split ends and frizz, for a supple, tangle-free finish. From Professional Hair Brands.

To The Rescue KEVIN.MURPHY REPAIR.ME is a three-product range to strengthen, moisturise, restore and protect, with naturally-derived super food proteins and fruit enzymes. Breakthrough skincare and scientific technology have encapsulated protein within an enzyme, keeping the protein in a lipid state, which allows the protein to nourish and soften hair without weighing it down. From Crew Distributors.

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Just Beachy Play up curl and texture with Keratin Complex Sweet Definition Sugar Mist from Dateline. With a salt-free formula that won't strip keratin or moisture from hair, the addition of unique bi-phase technology delivers the perfect balance of hydrating and curl-activating ingredients to deliver tousled, sultry waves.


AMMONIA FREE, PPD FREE, NATURALLY DERIVED INGREDIENTS

Crew Distributors info@crewdistributors.co.nz 0800 CREW66 (0800 273 966)


NEW PRODUCTS

1

2 3

3 OF THE BEST… ELEVEN Slick Hold Styling Pomade is the go-to product for anyone after a wet or high-shine look. The pomade enhances hair’s natural moisture and with a firm hold, is best suited for short or sleek groomed looks. From Crew Distributors. Use Layrite Superhold Pomade to sculpt extreme curls, thick locks or create high-elevation men’s styles needing extreme hold. This rich gel distributes easily through hair, making styling a piece of cake. From Dateline. With a high shine and strong hold, Reuzel Blue Pomade holds as heavy as wax yet rinses out as easily as gel. The super-concentrated styler works on any hair thickness or texture for beautifully polished looks. From Haircare New Zealand.

Colour Correct

PRODUCT

watch

It offers 8 superior benefits to all hair types, including strength, shine & moisture

Time To Prime

Protect, strengthen and reduce dry time thanks to Redken Pillow Proof Blow Dry Express Treatment Primer. Lightweight, nourishing and ideal for thick, coarse hair, this multi-purpose primer is essential for preventing breakage, dryness and heat damage, and helps make hair three times stronger.

In Control Matrix Biolage Anti-Frizz Lotion and Anti-Static Spray are follow-up steps in the quest for gorgeous hair, after using the new Matrix Biolage Cleansing Conditioners. The leave-in lotion for medium hair and spray for fine hair allow for greater manageability, providing balanced moisture, definition and detangling, controlling frizz and imparting shine and body. 54

100% vegan, Malibu CPR Colour Pigment Remover for oxidative colour allows for 1 to 3 levels of removal and doesn't lift the natural pigment of the hair. Perfect for those 'box-colour' clients, you can colour or highlight on the same day without the risk of over-processing. From Dateline.

Repair Job De Lorenzo Instant Restructurant is a weightless leave-in treatment that delivers 8 superior benefits to all hair types, including strength, shine, moisture, smoothness, conditioning, UV protection, colour protection and detangling. From Professional Hair Brands.


ARCTIC BLUE

SILVER FOX

MINT CREAM

Available exclusively from Professional Hair Brands p: (+64) 7 847 8350 | e: sales@phb.net.nz Follow us on Facebook: www.facebook.com/phb.net.nz

MISTY ROSE

LILAC MIST


INTERNATIONAL

n o i Fus

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Hair: Caterina Di Biase @ Heading Out Hair & Beauty, Melbourne Photography: Andrew O’Toole Makeup: Kylie O’Toole Styling: Jamie-Marie Shipton

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INSPIRATION The Fusion collection is a powerfully evocative blend of East meets West, and perfectly characterises the tantalising new hair direction by award-winning Australian hairdresser, Caterina Di Biase. Binding together magnetic, raw, glamorous sex appeal with confidence, sophistication and energy, Fusion offers up a modern, editorial punk look that is both fierce and feminine. Short textures and graphic fringes feature - an artistic lesson in influence and first impressions. It oozes feminine strength and seduction through its moody yet disciplined sculptural precision.

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INTERNATIONAL

Hybrid

Hair: Peter Prosser & Sam Millard @ Peter Prosser Hairdressing, UK. Photography: Andrew O'Toole. Makeup: Denise Rabor. 62


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INSPIRATION A fusion of graphic styling and bold colour have come together to create this eye-catching collection from the award-winning Peter Prosser team. Director, Peter Prosser, says that their aim was to "create a strong collection that showcased both colours and cuts that worked together in harmony and complimented one another to reveal a series of empowered feminine beauty."

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ICONIC HAIR

INTERNATIONAL

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Hair: Errol Douglas MBE, UK Photography: Andrew O'Toole Makeup: Kylie O'Toole Styling: Leticia Dare

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INSPIRATION Exploring and celebrating different incarnations of beauty as it manifests in the eye of the beholder and the stylist was the inspiration behind Errol Douglas's 'Iconic Hair'. “Beauty stripped bare for me is a heady mix of confidence, edge and fearlessness, juxtaposed with vulnerability, warmth and femininity," says Douglas. Shot in black and white as a nod to the 3mm feel of vintage Hollywood, the collection illustrates the different incarnations of beauty over the years and the women that have made an impact - from Marsha Hunt and Debbie Harry to Carla Bruni and Goldie Hawn. The hair features different lengths, textures and finishes through techniques including pin frizzing, buzz and slide cutting, suede finishing and crimping.

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Copenhagen

INTERNATIONAL

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Hair: Joey Scandizzo @ Joey Scandizzo Salon, Melbourne. Colour: Joey Scandizzo Salon Team. Photography: Andrew O’Toole. Makeup: Kylie O’Toole. Stylist: Lana Wilkinson.

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INSPIRATION Multi-award winning Australian hairdresser, Joey Scandizzo, introduces his latest collection, which has won him a finalist nod in the Australian Hair Fashion Awards 2016. Joey was heavily inspired by Danish city Copenhagen for this collection, hence the title, saying that that Copenhagen, “quickly became my favourite city in the world. To my surprise, Danish women sparked my attention with their eclectic mix of effortless style and captivating quirk. Whilst varied in their expression, their sense of femininity was something that I was excited to explore. From the bohemian quarter with its 70s-inspired cool, to the fashion trailblazers and sweet androgynous charm, they do it so well.�

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FOCUS

POSTCARD

from new york

Rodney Wayne Creative Director and session styling extraordinaire, Richard Kavanagh, shares his New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter '16 experience

D

o you know what -17 degrees Celsius feels like? It’s one of those things that can be very tricky to describe with words…I’ll give it a go. Bright, clear skies, sun shining, the whistle of wind around the buildings. Looks pretty good from inside. Step outside and it’s like the world is trying to take your soul and the air is about to rip your face off, something like that. So, we had a couple of pretty cold days this season, which made shooting outside somewhat uncomfortable, and added an extra element to the adventure of getting to shows and hair tests. Arriving in New York two weeks before fashion week to shoot the 2017 global campaign for Redken, I was greeted by mounds of snow as tall as people and a two and a half hour wait for my bags. Finally arriving at the hotel after 20 hours travel, I was ready for food and sleep and excited for my adventure to start. My first day was about meetings and picking up my electrical kit. American hot tools and blow-dryers operate on 110v and as a result, none of my NZ/AUS stuff works there. So I keep a kit there with a friend. Unfortunately he’d had an office organizer come in and sort out his studio space… my tools were nowhere to be found. Happy that I had a day spare, I wandered around the hair supply stores in Soho and Midtown (a hairdressers dream) and picked up curling irons, crimpers, blow-dryers and root tongs. The next few days were a blur of prepping, casting, colouring, cutting, and general planning for the shoot 80

(with a healthy dose of shopping for new clothes at Opening Ceremony). Ten days later we finished the shoot and it was time for fashion week to start. This season I had three shows to hair direct: Babyghost, O2nd and Lulu Frost. Lulu Frost, a New York-based jewellery brand was my first show, and the hair test took place at their showroom in Union Square. I met my NYC assistant at the showroom, talked through the casting, the show concept and their thoughts on hair. The show was based on the Pleiades (the constellation known as the seven sisters) and featured an eclectic cast of interesting women with cool haircuts and strong features. The designer’s original brief for hair was a wet look, slicked back, as they wanted to ensure that the product was the hero of the show. After hearing their creative concepts and seeing the casting, I convinced them to go with individual looks on each girl, with lived-in texture and rough geometric lines to create a cast of characters that represented strength, power and femininity. The show took place at the Highline Loft, a large industrial space in Midtown. The team arrived at 6am to set up and be ready for a 9:30am show. After demonstrating the look and talking through the key products, the team went to work getting all 14 models ready. As each model was finished, she was shot for the look-book before getting into the lineup for the show. Rehearsal went smoothly, final touches on everyone and it was show time! The show started on time and everyone was happy, especially the girl whose head we didn’t end up shaving! As soon as we wrapped, Bryan (my assistant) and I jumped in a car and headed to the Meatpacking District to do the hair test for O2nd. Arriving at their workroom, it was a clean open space and the models were filing in one by one for their


final fittings. The stylist for the show was Korean and English her second language (the little English she spoke), so without any visual references and the only rough instruction being, "I like beachy wave, but not wave, and not beachy," I started doing the hair trial. Knowing the brand’s aesthetic of sophisticated simplicity, I created a lived-in, undone look for the hair. When she saw it the stylist responded with a surprised, "Oh, I thought it was a ponytail." A ponytail? Did I miss the part where she said ponytail? I don’t think so but I definitely heard beachy wave. But not wave. And not beachy. So I throw the hair up into an effortless ponytail. Her response? "Oh, ponytail? I thought like loose chignon, like girl do it herself." Umm… so is it out? Up? Back? Pony? Chignon? Smiling, and laughing (on the outside) I twisted the hair into a loose chignon, very New York, effortlessly elegant, yet still cool. This they seemed to like and we signed off on the look. From here, Bryan and I went downtown to work on some of the finer points of wig wraps for another show that the team needed some help with when I got an urgent message from Soo Joo Park (blonde Korean Redken muse) asking if I could style her hair for the red carpet at the AMFAR Gala that night. As I’d already agreed to style Margaret Zhang’s hair for the same event, I had a bit of juggling to do! I went up to Sooj’s apartment in the East Village and whipped her hair up into a late 80s/early 90s-inspired messy pomp. Then jumped in a car back down to Soho to rock 'n roll Margaret up for the event. When I finished with the red carpet glam, I met my other assistant Craig at the Babyghost workroom on the Lower East Side for their hair test. The designers spend half their time in Shanghai and half in Manhattan and have a cult following of fashion’s cool kids in both countries. They normally do very lo-fi cool girl hair, but this season, because they had me in town, they wanted to do something a bit more playful. Still in keeping with the heart of the brand, I wanted to create a style that felt lived in and a little androgynous, but also referenced the idea of playing dress-up in your mum’s wardrobe. At the end of the hair test the designers proclaimed it the best hair they’ve ever had! The following day saw me up at 4.30am and on the L train from Brooklyn to Soho for a Vogue China mini-cover. Shooting on the penthouse balcony at the Soho Grand, the view was phenomenal. But because my arms were in the shot and it was -9 degrees Celsius it was rather a tough morning! I was later advised by the girl that Kanye West was obsessed with her hair, and he thought she should ‘get a perm’ and keep the style. After the shoot, I had time to grab a coffee with the makeup artist before heading up town to work on the hair test for the international Woolmark Award show. There were multiple designers and multiple teams and the guys wanted my input on looks and techniques to help them get the best results. The next day I had the O2nd show at Skylight Clarkson on the West Side where the onsite shows were for NYFW. I arrived early, set up and had a chat with my team. When the stylist arrived (remember the one with the beachy-wave/not wave/ not beachy/ponytail/chignon) she advised me that she’d changed her idea for the hair. Apparently, once they’d finished casting, they felt the look wasn’t going to suit all the girls, so they wanted to do individual looks on each of the 18 girls. So how to brief my team? What do I tell them to prep with? This now becomes a serious leadership opportunity and a good chance to test my communication skills. We did ‘cool girl hair’ on each of the models, prepping the looks with different cocktails of product and different styling techniques to create an effortless lived-in texture (remember the first look I showed them at the test?). Then, once each girl got in her outfit, I pushed the hair around to make her look her individual cool self. We shot a look-book with each girl in her final look, and then had them all ready 45 minutes before doors were due to open. So they opened the doors early, without mentioning this to me, so there I was in the lineup, doing final touches on each of the girls as the guests were filing in! A little warning would have been nice; I would have tucked my shirt in or something! My last day at NYFW started early again with a 5am L train to Soho to shoot a L’Officiel cover and editorial. A few shots inside then out into the snow for another four shots…don’t they snow is made of water? And water is bad for hairdos! After the shoot, it was over to Milk Studios for the Babyghost show. 22 models, a complicated look, a team of 20 and we are advised that none of the models will be arriving before 4pm and Vogue are sending their photographer over for an exclusive runway shoot at 5.15pm so that gives us one hour to get 22 girls finished. Not. Going. To. Happen. We got them ready by 5.30. What an amazing team! The designers were stoked. The beauty and fashion editors loved the hair. And I was spent! After nearly a month away, I couldn’t wait to get home to my family.

RODNEY WAYNE

NOW RECRUITING We invite you to be part of the award-winning team at New Zealand’s number one salon brand, Rodney Wayne. Upbeat and contemporary, Rodney Wayne has 36 large and small salons around New Zealand, all with a great mix of customers who love our service and rely on us for gorgeous, healthy hair. You could benefit from our world famous Rodney Wayne and L’Oréal training programmes and support systems. As a stylist and member of the Rodney Wayne creative powerhouse, you will have a key role in delivering the Rodney Wayne experience. Your objective is to provide a professional, highlyskilled, friendly and efficient service to all of our clients. Multiple pathways for career growth exists, including opportunities for passionate and skilled people to join the Rodney Wayne Art Team led by our Creative Director Richard Kavanagh (Redken Global Ambassador and mentor and two-time winner of Australian Session Stylist of the Year). At Rodney Wayne, we believe everyone has the right to look and feel fabulous. Because everyone is different, we listen and care. All our stylists are responsible for upholding these values by combining their technical expertise with the requirements of the Rodney Wayne System to consistently deliver outstanding hairdressing experiences. If this sounds like you please make contact. Call Stephanie in confidence on

(09) 358 4644

to find out more, or email your CV and a covering letter to admin@rodneywayne.co.nz. 81


BUSINESS

salon TRENDS

Wendy Maxwell talks about the challenge of wowing your clients

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rom the vintage glam 'Pimps & Pinups' hair salon in NYC, to London's Percy & Reed which offers a Blow Dry and Breakfast, salons are doing business a little differently these days. Today's consumer is not just looking for a service. She’s looking for either a holistic experience that is enjoyable and experiential, or for a fast and price-focused service. Think of the hospitality industry. You have so many options to capture people’s attention and patronage. It’s an industry that is about satisfying hunger, however the great ones deliver more than food; they provide fun, coolness and an experience. Clients will be wowed and retained by salons that deliver an unconventional twist to the business, adding unique selling points to their services that make a visit to their salon memorable and incomparable. There are many different kinds of hair salons and each business provides one or more salon service options. The different types of salon services provide care and beauty for the body from head to toe. Hair salon services are the most common. The style of service varies and ranges from budget to pampering. Hair salons with budget prices have a basic "no frills" strategy and often don’t take appointments for cuts and colours. Upmarket boutique hair salons showcase the latest trends in their environment and pamper clients with extra services - not just a great haircut and colour, but a unique experience which keeps clients addicted and coming back for more.

influenced our industry. There are pony tail bars, braid bars, colour bars, and men’s specialist barbers, all offering bespoke hairdressing with an experiential feel. “A good ponytail is like a good heel - it gives you a little lift,” explains John Barrett. It was Barrett who dreamt up the Ponytail Bar as a natural progression from the wildly successful Barrett Braid Bar in New York, situated in an elegant, sun-filled salon on the top floor of department store Bergdorf Goodman. With a menu of six options, there is a pony for every personality, every hair type and every occasion. In America and the UK there has been a growth in ‘Colour Bars’ which provide a no-appointment-necessary service and take inspiration from the growing trend for quick-fix colour services. Colour prices are kept down and are usually guaranteed to take under an hour – or your money back. These salons provide an affordable and accessible way to try out a colour trend, or to get regrowth touched up during your lunch break. Costs and time pressures ensure this is not a salon that offers a lengthy consultation or a pampering service.

BARS, BARS, AND MORE BARS

CONVENTION

Bars are the latest hair trend from overseas to have

Our clients are constantly being offered new ways of doing

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conventional things. Think of the changes you have all experienced at the supermarket, the airport, petrol stations and taxis; all traditional businesses doing things differently to keep and attract new consumers. Times have changed and so have your clients' needs. If we are to keep our industry strong, we must be dedicated to consistently providing high customer satisfaction that adapts to client needs. To do this successfully we need to challenge the way we think of hairdressing and the impact we have on our clients’ lives. You all have unique spaces in which to do hair. Are you living in the past with the services you offer? Or are you an example of how a salon can think outside of the box and challenge what consumers are expecting from the experience, in terms of both service and the environment? L'Oréal Professional Products Division Education and Development Manager, Wendy Maxwell, leads the company's Salon 360 Development Programme. Wendy has 29 years experience in the industry. Her role sees her working with salons across Kérastase, L'Oréal Professional, Redken and Matrix brands. She has worked and attended training internationally in Paris and London on business development for L'Oréal.


Originals

BE INSPIRED EXPO

TICKETS ON www.hairexp SALE NOW oau

More than just an exhibition with over 200 brands and multiple stages showcasing the world’s leading artists and local talent

EDUCATION Learn from the industry’s leaders all gathered under one roof to share their expertise and spark your creativity. GALAS

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Celebrate as creativity and innovation take centre stage in three spectacular Gala nights.

MELBOURNE CONVENTION AND EXHIBITION CENTRE

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S LENT EDGE . L E C X E E R E.. DA IONALSOZ ON AND MANY MOR S S E F O R P E LLA OL SIONALWE SORSECOHAIRNAP S E F O R P F CIS OP CHWARZK FORTELMIZUTANI S S L L E W D L M GO ABYLISSCO B X E L P A L 83 O Hair: Dmitri Papas. Photography: Andrew O’Toole. Makeup: Kylie O’Toole. Colour: Justin Pace.


BUSINESS

Time wise

Larissa Macleman provides some tips for taking back your time and gaining more freedom in 2016

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very day I talk to salon owners who are way more stressed out than they should be. It makes me sad because stress blocks creativity, and we all know how important it is to be creative in our industry. I know when I had my salon, a million things needed my attention constantly and I wanted to be successful, so I thought I always needed to be running at maximum capacity. My relationships were beginning to fray as a result. I hated it and I’m sure you can relate. The most important thing I had to learn was how to manage stress and to take back my freedom. Here are some tips that helped me to do just that...

TIME Time is a precious commodity for everyone in the modern world; it’s the one thing you can’t buy but 84

everyone wishes they had more of. You’re a business owner, so your job is to wear many hats that regularly require your attention and time. The burden you feel trying to juggle all these things can lead to guilty feelings every which way you turn. If you let it, that burden will weigh you down. Think about the following scenario. When you’re not at work you feel bad that you're not there to support your team or your customers. Being a manager means you expect others to work hard and when you’re not there leading the way, like many salon owners, you feel guilty. So to appease your guilt, you put your family life aside and go to work. But then when you’re at work leading the team by example and working hard, you feel guilty for not being at home spending time with your loved ones. Ahhh, the cycle! The only way to stop this from happening is to manage your time wisely so that you can create the necessary space in your life to invest in the relationships that are most important to you. Get this right and the money will come and the guilt will go.


The key to doing this is to learn to let go of those little interruptions and distractions that are busy keeping you away from the life you deserve to live. The first step to better managing your time is to know the goals and outcomes that you want to achieve. Without this, you'll be spending your energy travelling uphill on a road that has no end in sight. Spend an hour or two writing down your goals for the next five years, then this year, this month, and this week. Reference the activities in your calendar with the goals you wrote down. If tasks come up that are not helping you to move forward, they're not worth your time and need to be given the flick. Be ruthless! There are 1000 things that could or should be done, but you can’t do it all, and that’s okay.

“ Timely gives us the latest technology to take our business forward.”

“Time is a precious commodity for everyone in the modern world; it’s the one thing you can’t buy but everyone wishes they had more of.” AUTOMATE Eliminating the need to repeat everyday processes is an easy way to maximise your time. Technology has made it possible for us to automate many aspects of our businesses, and it’s generally very cost-effective. Chances are that about a third of the things you do every day can be eliminated by automation. This means less mistakes and smoother running, without the need for constant input. Here are some examples: • Integrate your salon software with accounting and marketing apps to save time and data transfer. You can use tools like MailChimp, Xero, and MYOB that all connect to your salon software. • Use SMS reminders to reduce no-show appointments and automatically remind customers when they have an upcoming booking with you. • Stop the phone interrupting you and let clients manage their own appointments by setting up online booking. It won’t cost you anything and will save you thousands of hours. • Sync Google Calendar on your devices with your appointment calendar so you can manage your work and home life from anywhere, anytime.

KARL & DANELLE RADEL, Klone Hair

 9am



Wed, July 22, 2015

Appointments





Jan Evans 9:00am Straighten - $60.00

Stacey Hargreaves 9:30am Quick Trim - $60.00

DELEGATE Instead of doing everything yourself, devote your time to recognising others abilities and delegating tasks to them. When your team are put into positions they feel they can grow into, they feel empowered and capable. Give your staff the opportunity to feel like they’re capable of making the business successful. Magic!

10am

Coffee Break 11:00am Alana Spencer 11:00am Color - Short - $60.00 11am

Billy Macintosh 11:30am Color - Medium - $90.00

12pm

GO MOBILE How do you make time for yourself when there are a million things that need your attention all the time? You can start by using technology and software to monitor your business while you’re away. Cloud-based tools are well-suited to a mobile lifestyle because you can free yourself from desks and physical devices. As long as you have an internet connection or mobile data, it doesn’t matter where you are or what device you have. Just open up your browser and check on how things are going in your business. That guilt we feel as business owners occurs when we believe that we have crossed our own lines that we have set for ourselves. These standards have been put in place through years of actions and thoughts that we've subjected ourselves to. But the good news is that it's not difficult to change. One step at a time, we can learn to manage our time better, benefit from having deeper relationships and even have time to ourselves. This is how we put the guilt and stress that comes with running a business behind us. After all, the hard work you undertook in starting your business was not done so that you could feel bad about it, was it?

Alana Spencer 11:00am Color - Short - $60.00

Alexis Jefferson 2:30am Color - Long - $120.00

Award-winning salon Klone Hair switched to Timely and now save hundreds of dollars every month. Find out why thousands of salons love Timely appointment scheduling, visit gettimely.com

Larissa Macleman owned an award-winning hair salon with a team of 25+ employees for 20 years. She is now Business Development Manager at Timely Salon Software, a world-leading salon software product. Larissa helps salons come to grips with technology on a daily basis, a task that her previous experience has equipped her well for. Visit www.gettimely.com 85


HEADWAY PROMOTION

Go green with REFOIL Create a sustainable salon future and make foil waste history

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ur industry is creative, rewarding and exciting – who else gets to make people look and feel glamorous every day but hairdressers? Have you ever wondered though about the impact the hairdressing industry has on the planet? In Australia alone, hairdressers throw away one million kilos of foils every year. That’s 1000 tonnes of virgin aluminium going straight to landfill, at a massive cost to the environment. Did you know it takes 500 years for this foil waste to degrade? Enter Refoil! Colourists who care now have a choice Refoil is proudly Australia’s first sustainable salon foiling concept, taking a life cycle approach to ensure the best quality foil with the least impact on the environment. Care for the environment is at the heart of everything Refoil does; from design, manufacturing and packaging, right through to disposal. Yet, Refoil allows no compromise in terms of creativity or quality for hairdressers. The raw material Refoil utilises comes from a mix of pre-and post-consumer recycled aluminium, ranging from leftover factory aluminium scrap, to recycled content collected from recycling centres, using a fraction of the energy needed to produce raw aluminium and cutting the need for destructive open-cast mining that damages the landscape. To provide premium quality, Refoil have balanced the recycled content with a small quantity of other minerals and metals derived from new sources. Plus, all Refoil products are also infinitely recyclable.

The Crush Refoil is the creator of the ‘Refoil – Crush – Recycle’ concept, a sustainable foiling program and an industry first. Refoil found the number one reason hairdressers sent foil and tube waste to landfill was that they didn’t know how to recycle successfully. Refoil has found a simple way to ensure all its customers know how to recycle within existing recycling schemes called THE CRUSH. Crushing used Refoil sheets together into balls is a crucial part of the Refoil ‘HOW BIG ARE YOUR BALLS’ recycling campaign. Their mission is to make foil waste history by providing education, collaborating with the wider community and committing to sustainable product development. Education & Collaboration Refoil believes education is the cornerstone of sustainable development within the hairdressing industry, so they provide much-needed information to help salons become more sustainably-minded. They believe achieving sustainable growth is only possible by working together with the wider community and collaborating with other stakeholders, such as product manufacturers, hair salons, recyclers and government to make a real difference. Therefore, Refoil collaborates on awarenessbuilding and recycling campaigns, aiming at an industry goal of zero waste.

For more information on this sustainable new way of colouring, contact Professional Hair Brands.

PO Box 5281, Frankton, Hamilton 1 Kells Place, Frankton, Hamilton 3204, NZ p: (+64) 7 847 8350 e: sales@phb.net.nz w: www.phb.net.nz Follow us on Facebook: www.facebook.com/PHB.net.nz


Exclusively in beauty institutes & spas.


Joyce Blok’s NEW Vitamin E15%! The life saver for your skin this autumn

This antioxidant & anti-inflammatory serum renews, softens and protects damaged skin from free radicals and environmental damage. Vitamin E is considered to be the ultimate lipid-soluble antioxidant and free-radical scavenger. Vitamin E provides an ideal antidote to protect New Zealand skin against daily encounters with high levels of environmental pollution, oxidation and year round UV exposure. For details on becoming a Joyce Blok stockist or to find a Joyce Blok salon near you, contact us on: T: 0800 105 107 • E: info@joyceblok.co.nz • www.joyceblok.co.nz • facebook.com/joyceblok

Thank you to the following Joyce Blok salons for your invaluable feedback on our Vitamin E during the development phase, we couldn’t have done it without you! Auckland: Beauty Circle, Bounce Back To Beauty, Christine’s Health Spa & Beauty, Cinderella Beauty & Day Spa, Faye’s Beauty & Day Spa, Rosebuds Beauty Therapy, Therapie Face & Body Studio. Waikato: Annettes Electrolysis & Beauty Clinic, Envisage Beauty Therapy, Memories Beauty Clinic, Rosebuds Beauty Therapy, Soul Beauty Rooms. Taranaki: Beautylicious, Sheer Bliss Hair & Body. Manawatu/Wanganui: Bliss Beauty Therapy, Pania Ryan Beauty Retreat. Southland: Indulge Beauty Therapy. Northland: Re-Vive Beauty Therapy. Wellington: House of Beauty Day Spa, Illusions Beauty Sanctuary.


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One of my favourite new websites is Beauty EQ by our own Managing Editor Trudi Brewer. It's filled with beautiful images, in-depth hair and beauty updates, lifestyle features and interviews with inspiring, gorgeous people! Check it out at beautyeq.co.nz

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Since being pregnant, I've had a lot of comments on my 'glowing' skin. However, my secret weapon has actually been MAC Mineralize Powder Blush, which seriously takes you from drab to fab in mere seconds. I'm switching it up between my old favourite Moon River, and What I Fancy from the new Flamingo Park collection.

CND Cucumber Heel Therapy has been one of my favourite body products for the longest time. Cooling, soothing and refreshing, with cucumber, aloe and chamomile, it's the ideal moisturiser to smother over tired feet at the end of the day.

editor's 4 AUTUMN FAVOURITES

I'm in love with Pure Fiji Coconut Infusion Body Butter, which has to be one of the best body moisturisers around. It's creamy, rich, super-nourishing and gives your skin a beautiful sheen. And the fragrance is just too divine.

I've never been a master at liquid liner application but I've finally found one that works for me. glo Minerals Liquid Ink Eyeliner has a slender, felt-tip applicator, which makes this semi-gloss formula super-easy to apply. I also love the fact it's formulated with vitamin E for healthy lashes. Cat eyes here I come!

Headway Editor, Charmaine Guest, reveals her autumn beauty essentials

I've been religiously applying HydroPeptide Eye Authority each night to give the illusion of a good night's sleep when needed. It's perfect for helping brighten up tired-looking eyes and helping get rid of that dreaded puffiness and dark circles.

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Keeping my brows on point has been made so much easier with Samala Cosmetics Brow Trio Kit. The darker shade is perfect for definition, while the lighter shades give a really natural, polished look.

I was given Diesel Fuel For Life Unlimited as a Christmas gift and this has now taken over as my signature scent for autumn. It's a subtle mix of floral and fruity, definitely not heavy, and features bergamot, lemon, liquorice, star anise and white flowers. Yum!

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What's a DVD box-set got to do with beauty? Well, everyone knows that relaxation is a big part of keeping healthy, and before baby is born, I'll be having some serious couch time with my current obsession, the Swedish/Danish version of The Bridge. So much more than a crime series. No one does thrillers better than the Scandinavians!

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I've been a fan of Ella Bache Savon Creme for years, but now that my time is more precious than ever, it's become my regular go-to for a really quick exfoliating cleanse in those problem areas. It leaves my skin smooth and velvety in record time. Love!


beauty 5


HEAVY METAL Eye of Horus's new range of metallic liquid eyeliners transform eyes with a splash of electrifying, illuminating colour. Formulated with mineral pigments, the liners' smudge-free, felt-tipped precision applicator effortlessly highlights eyes with a burst of statement colour. Our favourite is Alchemy Gold Liquid Metal. From CS Company.

BEAUTY NEWS

Latest Trends & Products

NO FILTER NEEDED Fresh, nude and flawless. Our secret skin weapon this season is Samala Cosmetics Crème Foundations. Offering invisible, weightless coverage while evening out skin tone and imperfections, luminous skin is guaranteed with this lustrous little compact. 6

GET EVEN A tinted anti-ageing formula for a flawless skin finish, RESULTIME MultiCorrective Cream evens skin tone, refines skin texture, tightens pores, hydrates, nourishes, fights pigmentation, combats wrinkles, reduces redness and covers imperfections, while offering long-lasting colour correction. Suitable for all skin types and available in two shades: natural and gold. From House of Camille.


WHILE YOU WERE SLEEPING Restore skin luminosity with Dermalogica Pure Night. This nourishing, rich, night time treatment moisturiser helps reduce the appearance of brown spots and uneven skin tone while you sleep, with an active blend of skinbrightening agents. From Skin Health Experts.

SMOOTH OPERATOR Sothys Inspiration Art & Beaute Shower Body Scrub combines a palette of sensations for a luxurious bathing experience. With an aquatic floral fragrance, this gentle exfoliant cleanses and beautifies skin, while the addition of Blue Iris extract keeps skin thoroughly hydrated. From de Spa Cosmetics.

GRAND DESIGNS CND reveals the newest addition to their portfolio with CREATIVE PLAY Nail Lacquer. With 80 colours across 10 different finishes, this vibrant range is formulated with micronized pigments to optimise colour intensity, smoothness and gloss. With shades developed to provoke uniqueness and fun, the nail world is your oyster - play with every finish imaginable; from satin through to shimmer, metallics, holographic glitter and pearl sheen.

WORK OF ART We love the new glo Minerals Contour Palette, which features four powder shades to enhance features and create dimension. Whether softly subtle or more dramatically chiselled, these blendable and buildable formulas allow you to create a customized contour statement. Available in two shades: fair to light and medium to dark. From Self Care Group.

SCIENCE MEETS BEAUTY Lycogel introduce three new products featuring revolutionary LYCO-Complex, a carefully balanced set of 12 active ingredients that deliver oxygen, moisture and nutrients to skin all while enhancing natural beauty. Breathable Camouflage comes in 12 shades and offers buildable coverage with an elegant matte finish; Breathable Balm energises and protects; and Breathable Tint offers luminous light coverage for a healthy, vibrant glow in 4 shades. From World Beaute.

BERRY NICE Rich, plum shades are bang on-trend this season, so treat your lips to a deep berry pout with Osmosis Long Lasting Lipstick in Forget Me Not. With an irresistible creamy texture, Osmosis' lipstick range offers a wash of colour that stays put all day long. Plus, the formula contains advanced mineral and organic pigment technology giving an incredible vibrancy.

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TREND WATCH

man

OH MAN

Last season Jason Davies gave us his expert feedback regarding the potential of the male grooming market from the cut, style and colour perspective. This issue, Anne O’Brien looks at the lucrative male consumer group from a different perspective, and discovers that big boys do actually exfoliate…

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f anyone mentioned in lunch rooms across New Zealand that the global male skin care market has been increasing its turnover by double digits since 2007, the average Kiwi would probably pull one of those ‘yeah right’ faces. Fortunately for us (and the skin health of 50% of our population) this is indeed the case within this segment. Skin care outsells hair care in most regions. The majority of new sales come from the Asia Pacific region, and upcoming emerging markets include Latin America. Since 2012, beauty and personal care launches specifically targeted at men have increased globally by 70% and all statistics show that it is one of the fastest growing segments of the beauty industry. The question we’re asking in our lunch room at Headway is whether we are ready for a change in attitude and are any businesses embracing the potential of this growth sector? Or are we simply ignoring it saying, “that will never happen in the New Zealand market – we’re just too blokey”? The answer is; to grow your business you have to change, and no we’re not too blokey so read on… Whilst we may be a little slower to adopt global trends, you must not make the mistake that your market will never adopt them. Driving the charge around the world are the male millennials now moving into the 25 plus group. A millennial, by the way, is another recent marketing phenomenon. One of those ‘on trend’ words we need to keep up with. Unlike the metrosexual, it is not gender specific. It refers to a person reaching young adulthood around the year 2000, and everywhere you look there are theories on what makes millennials tick. Basically younger males (and females, but we’re focusing on the males here) are willing to try lots of different products as a) they’re enormously accessible due to technology and b) millenials have grown up in a world where it is okay to care about 8

your skin. The male routine of shaving and then applying aftershave (who can forget watching Dad shave and then splashing on his Old Spice!) has become much more than that. New role models through social media reveal a massive palette of inspiration and the millennial male is soaking it up.

“Multitasking products were better received than anticipated. Shampoo, body wash, and body moisturiser in one for instance. One participant asked if a deodoriser could be added to the product as well to save time. Time is as important for men as it is for women.” It’s not just Dad anymore but it’s the trends in Korea, Tokyo and Brazil which everyone is aspiring to. Cool images are at our fingertips and these fingertips have luxurious creams and highly engineered anti-ageing products (just for the boys) on them. Let’s look at some of the options to consider if you want to be part of this mampering (another marketing term which we’re not so sure about) growth. There are some stereotypes you may want to abandon and practicalities you might need to ponder. Firstly, unisex products are just not going to cut it any longer. Males have adopted the same grooming routines

as females but they do not want to use products that are traditionally targeted to females, and certainly not presented the same way. They want products that will suit their lifestyle and be tailored to their needs. This is not only from an ingredients perspective but also from a packaging one. Recently, we were involved in a focus group and a repackaging exercise for male skin care products. What the females thought would work and what the males knew would work were actually polarised. Simply repackaging female prestige products into a darker coloured bottle is not what it’s about. The end audience is what has to be kept in mind and this is the core of your success with treatments and services as well. Secondly, unisex treatments are not what it’s about either and they will just not bring in your male customer. He does not want to be told, ‘yes, we offer the same service to our male clients as we do for our female clients’. This is correct as your level of service should be superb for either gender but the type of treatments you offer MUST be different. You will describe it differently. You will present the room differently and you will perform it differently because the male skin is different. Can you afford to have an area dedicated to your male customer on your current price list, whether it be print or digital? Can you afford not to? It’s not a matter of retraining staff or making massive investments in décor, but you will not attract clients when they just don’t find what is on the menu appealing. So, rethink your menu copy and merchandising and see what you can do cost-effectively first. According to an International Spa Association (ISPA) survey, male spa guests have jumped from 33% to 47% - huge when you consider what each spa or salon would be reporting in New Zealand. At Headway, we don’t believe that most beauty businesses in New Zealand


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exceed more than 10% male clientele, but we could be wrong. The majority of this jump that ISPA refer to has a lot to do with the fact that spas internationally have changed their service menu a little bit, the fragrance of essential oils they may be using, and what magazines are in the reception area – as simple as that. There are now specific spas catering exclusively to men which will have also helped spike these numbers (we did not know of any in New Zealand but perhaps a reader could let us know) but changing marketing, treatment language and providing targeted treatments were listed as the main reasons behind this jump in attendance. Amazing and so simple. Now we’ve looked at a couple of stereotypes (unisex products and treatments being the only way into a man’s skin care budget for instance), let’s look at another - the lumbersexual. The lumbersexual is the ultra-masculine yet meticulously maintained grooming style for men. Where once a beard or moustache would be a sign of a lazy male, the new trend has shaken up this stereotype; groomed hipster-style facial hair is the latest thing. Rugged but never unkempt...I could go on but you get the picture. This opens up the opportunity for beard oils, moustache 10

wax, softeners and conditioners, but something we need to be aware of is that the skin around the beard needs to be even more focused on, as the beard actually draws more attention to the face and brows. Obviously beard maintenance is something you need to consider adding to your list of treatments but skin with facial hair requires more effort aside from trimming and styling. Without that regular daily shave, the build up of ingrown hairs, bumps, lumps and irritations occur. Everyone has seen the persistent itching that can come with a bearded man. The solution to this is a multi-step routine that requires a cleanser and exfoliant with AHA, glycolic or salicylic acid to help eliminate impurities from a man’s oilier skin. Creams are too thick to penetrate the facial hair, whilst multitasking ingredients keep coarse whiskers soft and moisturise the underlying skin to prevent beard-ruff or facial dandruff. Ensure you have alternative cleansers available that meet these criteria for skin health, and take the time to explain how they work in clear concise language. The male client wants the elevator pitch not the full story. Now that you have a few market insights on hand, you

will realise that men need their own menu, products and a different attitude to skin care all together. The beard trend is not a negative but introduces a different way of treating the skin, and the millennial male has changed the way of skin care for this next generation. Most importantly, we hope you haven’t been too distracted by age-old stereotypes and realise that yes, big boys do exfoliate. Good luck.

There is one obvious question here though. If the male millennial is our primary target, what do we do about the hipsters with the facial hair? What do we do with the lumbersexual?


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DERMALOGICA FOR MEN POST SHAVE BALM from Skin Health Experts

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for HIM

MEN’S SKINCARE INVOLVES MORE THAN JUST GROOMING; IT REQUIRES AN INVESTMENT IN BOTH SKIN HEALTH AND LONGEVITY. HERE ARE OUR AUTUMN PICKS

ASPAR ROSEMARY & CLOVE THERMAL BALM

from Self Care Group

from Total Beauty Supplies

from Crew Distributors

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from de Spa Cosmetics

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SCARAMOUCHE & FANDANGO SHAVE CREAM from House of Camille

SOTHYS HOMME SOOTHING AFTER-SHAVE BALM from de Spa Cosmetics

VINES VINTAGE BEARD OIL

AMERICAN CREW CLASSIC 3-IN-1 SHAMPOO CONDITIONER & BODY WASH

SOTHYS HOMME AGE-DEFYING HYDRATINBG FLUID

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ENVIRON SHAVING OIL from

Professional Skin & Beauty

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DECLÉOR AROMESSENCE TRIPLE ACTION SHAVE PERFECTOR SERUM from Self Care Group

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JB MAN DAILY CLEANSING SCRUB & DAILY MOISTURISER

from Self Care Group

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TREND WATCH

the cosmetic

'MANSCAPE' Increasing numbers of men are embracing treatments that allow them to look and feel younger and more vital. Dr Catherine Stone talks us through the most popular procedures

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great haircut, pressed suit, close shave and shoes shined to within an inch of their life meant that once upon a time, you were good to go. Not any longer. The cosmetic landscape is changing and the men's market within this sector is booming. Men, as much as women, now want to look fresher and more youthful than ever before.

Men and women have very different features, so treatments targeted more specifically at men - such as ‘Bro-tox’ - have been gaining popularity. While men have bigger muscles (facially, as well as on the body) and a stronger bone structure than women, it’s important for them to still retain some ‘ruggedness’ to the face, while reducing the impact of features that make them look tired, angry or stressed. Men of all ages will seek out ‘Bro-tox’ to soften an angry frown, reduce the heaviness of their eyes to make them look less tired, or to gently lift the mouth corners and make them look happier or less sad/worried/mean. But


WHY ARE MEN SUDDENLY SO READY TO FOCUS ON THEIR APPEARANCE SOMETHING CONSIDERED VAIN AND UNMANLY UNTIL NOT LONG AGO?

PRP is an exciting treatment for more reasons than its safety (there’s not too many cosmedical treatments safer than using your own blood!). As it regenerates whatever tissue it is placed into, it’s proving to be a very successful treatment for early hair loss, and, surprisingly, men’s 'issues’ – such as erectile dysfunction, Peyronie’s Disease, and possibly even Lichen Sclerosis. “The definition of masculinity is in flux,” says James Fell, Dr Charles Runels, an American a fitness columnist who writes frequently about men’s doctor, has developed a trademarked body image. “Guys are finally getting the chance to technique called the ‘Priapus Shot’, which has helped many men improve create their own definitions of masculinity, and their sex life in a significant way if it doesn’t gel with the old school version, enhancing erections, sensitivity and often these days it’s pretty much length and girth. like ‘who cares?’” The Priapus Shot uses just a few tiny injections of PRP into the shaft of the penis (which sounds incredibly painful, but is almost painless due to a REALLY while ‘Bro-tox’ good numbing cream). About 60% of men will be happy is currently finding with just one treatment, with an 85-90% success rate after popularity, it’s not a new thing. My male friends laughingly two treatments. Although repeat treatments can ‘boost’ joked around about getting their “Bro-tox, bro” over ten the result, there seem to be limits to the gains that can be years ago. So what has changed to make it more socially achieved beyond 3-4 treatments within 6 months. acceptable and ‘a thing’? Research by Dr Ronald Virag over the last 5 years Firstly, men’s grooming is now a booming industry, no shows PRP to be an effective treatment for Peyronie’s longer relegated to being an afterthought tagged on to Disease, where plaque build-up in the erectile tissues leads women’s beauty products. While men still often sneakily to a ‘bendy penis’ that can impact sexual performance. steal their partner’s beauty products, the recognition Injection of PRP into the plaque area can help regenerate that their skin needs are different has led to a plethora of the erectile tissue and reduce the impact of the ‘bend’, cosmetic products designed specifically for them. giving a straighter and more functional penis. According to Datamonitor, 52% of global male I have recently treated my first male client with Lichen consumers consider their looks and appearance to be Sclerosis, a devastating disease where the tissue of the penis important, or very important, and 29% touch up their becomes white, fragile and painful. Its previous name was appearance throughout the day. These behaviours and attitudes are even more prevalent in younger men. Add to this the increasing social acceptance of body modification, whether it be with tattoos, piercings or cosmetic procedures; along with the increasing availability of different safe, simple and effective cosmetic options specifically targeting men (or at the very least, not excluding them), and ‘Bro-tox’ becomes understandably attractive. While ‘Bro-tox’ can be used to relax the overactive muscles that can make you look worn out, stressed, or overly fierce (often with positive side effects, such as helping with migraine headaches or depression symptoms), there are now many more non-surgical options available for the modern male wanting to look his best. A simple 30 minute treatment with dermal fillers can be used to strengthen the cheekbones, jaw and/or chin; to fill up deep lines on the forehead; or to reduce the ‘tired’ look under the eyes due to under eye hollows and some types of ‘eye bags’. Tired, sallow skin can be subtly boosted to look more vibrant with gentle medical-grade LED light treatments, such as Omnilux (which ‘feeds’ the skin cells with energy so the skin functions more effectively); injectable ‘skin boosters’ to improve hydration and texture; or Platelet-Rich Plasma (PRP), which uses the healing parts of your own blood to tell your tissues to regenerate, repair and rejuvenate.

in life. This is what makes my job so special, and I feel blessed that we have been able to help him in such a significant way. PRP is proving to be a good option for both men and women with hair loss due to androgenetic alopecia, one of the most common forms of hair loss as we age. One of the key hallmarks of androgenetic alopecia is thinning hair through the front and the crown of the head, while the hair at the sides and back of the head are often spared, or will be the last to go. PRP stops the process of ‘miniaturisation’ or thinning of the hair, which is caused by the effect of androgens (especially a metabolite of testosterone, called DHT, or Di-Hydro-Testosterone) on the hair follicle. Medications such as finasteride and minoxidil (Regaine and Propecia) help to reduce the effect of DHT on the hair follicle, but can sometimes have side effects affecting sex drive and erectile function. PRP in the scalp works well alongside these medical treatments and also provides an alternative option for those who can’t tolerate the medications. Research suggests that the best results with PRP for androgenetic alopecia are seen when hair loss is early ideally within 2 years - although results can still be seen for people with a longer history. Regenerating the tissues around the hair shaft stops the thinning process and will often make the hair thicker, darker and stronger. Unfortunately, if the hair follicle has gone and there is nothing to stimulate, none of these treatments will be effective. Sun damage causing brown spots and pigmentation is another major concern for Kiwi men, due to our high levels of UVA or ‘ageing rays’ from the sun. Using good quality medical-grade skin products on a daily basis can often help reduce these, along with regular Medi-Facials. While men are starting to enjoy being pampered, many still prefer to do a treatment and then not have to think about it again for the next few months. Intense Pulsed

“52% of global male consumers consider their looks and appearance to be important, or very important, and 29% touch up their appearance throughout the day.” ‘Balanitis Obliterans’ (translation: inflammation of the penis causing obliteration of the tissues), and until now, there have been almost no effective options for treating this awful condition. My patient is a youthful, good-looking man in his mid-50’s, with a successful business and (from the outside) a wonderful life. He had been suffering in silence with this disease for over 15 years, and burst into tears when we started talking about it in his consultation. A research study on women with Lichen Sclerosis last year showed PRP to be an effective treatment, so we performed the Priapus Shot along with additional PRP into the Lichen Sclerosis areas at the end of last year. So far, my client has seen about a 20% improvement in the tissues, and we are looking forward to seeing what results a second treatment might provide. Psychologically, he feels it has made a massive difference in his confidence, and this has affected his general outlook

Light (IPL) is a faster way to treat the more superficial sun damage/pigmentation, but for best results (and to minimize side effects), your skin should be ‘prepped’ with appropriate medical skin care at least a month before treatment. You must avoid sun exposure for a month before and a month after each treatment, which means that most good operators will only offer this service during the winter months. Other ‘energy-based devices’ can be used for smoothing and tightening the skin, and we are currently trialling a new technology called ThermiTight, which looks promising for enhancing the jaw line, reducing jowls and tightening the skin of the neck. Watch this space! Dr Catherine Stone is the founder of The Face Place MedSpa and has trained with the pioneers of cosmetic Botox and many of the top cosmetic doctors in the world. 13


TREND WATCH

T

here is a refreshing simplicity to beauty this season, in both literal and conceptual terms: makeup artists are either making a decisive statement that pushes one element to the extreme, or adopting a variant on 'no makeup' as an equally strong, relevant styling choice. "You're either doing what looks like nothing or a strong something," says makeup artist, Tom Pecheux.

NOTHING

FACE OF

change

The new season's makeup trends focus on elevating natural beauty, whilst challenging the idea of perfection

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This spirit harks back to the 90s, a decade being mined this season for the independent attitude that re-imagined femininity as an unprocessed beauty. Fast forward a couple of decades and technology brings an enriched simplicity and rawness that was signature to those years. Water-light formulas and veiled pigments put a fresh, radiant skin at the core of this season's looks. Beauty has scrutinised various guises of minimalism for a few seasons now, but it is poignant that a pared-back feel has evolved to the point that it underpins all makeup in some way. "Skin has to appear through everything to look modern," asserts makeup artist, Terry Barber. "It used to be a tan was considered the luxury beauty statement...now it's incredibly good skin," says makeup artist Lyne Desnoyers. Skin quality is now at the core of contemporary 'no-makeup makeup' and this new approach is about invisible enhancement and accentuating. While there are nuances to "nothing" (rawness, luminosity and health being the key directions), makeup artists are


unanimous that, "these looks are every woman's idea of how she'd ideally like to look with no makeup on. There is an absolute art to treading the line between creating a beautiful skin and one that has enough rawness for it to be modern," comments Terry Barber. "Call it a backlash against the social media-generated looks that are so glamorous, heavily retouched, filtered and unachievable." Artists have moved on from attempting to carve the face in contour or highlight. Luminosity is the new sculpting. A play on light takes on a super-elegant rather than high-tech feel. Skin should appear impeccably refined and super-expensive; but the aesthetic is ultimately about attainability. "The concept of runway-to-reality feels old now," points out artist Romero Jennings. "The most important thing is individualism and makeup that translates straight to the street."

ALL Taking the highly crafted and creative idea of facial jewellery and adornment and translating it into makeup has gained traction since last season. A kooky lash, a naïve liner, an out-there lip are the tweaks of stylish eccentricity. Makeup is now viewed as an alternative form of accessory, an extension of fashion more than a beautifying tool. These supremely confident statements project an attitude of beautiful contemporaneity – as simple as they are emphatically bold; jolts of kaleidoscopic colour in unexpected proportions worn against a simply prepared skin are singular, uncomplicated, free of pretence and, importantly, playful and fun. “This isn’t makeup that takes itself too seriously,” explains Terry Barber. “It searches for an experimental, youthful and dynamic spirit that brings an unexpected ornamentation to the face. Vital to this beauty direction are the highly personalised accents, with a myriad of global influences at play - from manga to Maasai, 70s to 90s – but this makeup projects a “no concept” air as opposed to anything heavily referenced." “It’s about the classic idea of using one stand-alone element to make a makeup statement, but finding new ways to make this point,” says makeup artist, Val Garland. 15


MAKEUP DIRECTIONS CRAYON The Crayola-like spectrum pigments presiding have a primary brightness, saturation and sense of naïve spontaneity to their application. “There is such a new enthusiasm for colour, especially primary brights,” notes makeup artist, Gordon Espinet. Worn as solitary gestures (there is a definitive straightforwardness to wearing just one colour that looks impeccably modern), there is nothing retro or nostalgic about these bright colours or their placement.

HOT CHERRY A strong lip (worn on a bare face) is a statement beyond seasonal trends. What subtly updates red lips now is that they are easy and youth-based, as opposed to grounded in grown-up glamour. “Red lips are the ultimate democratic beauty accessory; all women can make them their own,” says Lyne Desnoyers. “They are pushed to the max this season – in terms of colour and texture (either high-shine or matte) but the rest of the face is so minimal that they have a casual feel.”

AQUATIC International Klein blue and its close relatives come to the fore as the eye colour of the season. Manifested in liners, lashes and beyond, this true cobalt blue has a richness that is tempered by a naïve application, giving the eyes an almost graffiti-like urban twist.

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LUSTRE The enduring fascination with divining new ways to bring lightness to the complexion beams toward the fractionated luminosity of quartz and crystal, for a lustrous strobe-lit finish. “It’s more radiant than metallic, with a satin, pearly sheen,” says Petros Petrohilos. “We are drawing attention to specific areas by adding some points of shine to contrast against matte skin.” A bounce of light on the cheekbones and high planes automatically lends a degree of shaping that pulls out the features. “It brings out a lot of different reflections in the skin for a multi-faceted feel,” explains Val Garland.

BROKEN DOLL “A little distorted, cute doll” is how artist Lucia Pieroni describes the tendency towards an unorthodox lash this season. “Mascara and lashes are now being used in an ornamental way, to give the eye an edgy feel full of attitude, telling a story of where this woman has been and what she has done.”

RAW REFINED

Images: MAC

“Sun-kissed rather than suntanned,” says Lynsey Alexander of the new glow. "It’s taking a 90s palette and using it in a fresh way.” While this makeup nods to the supermodel side of the 90s, there is none of the sharpness and carving that characterised the original “supers.” “It’s a finished beauty but not heavily done,” says Tom Pecheux. Cue burnished, lucid golden tones that play with the light to give a dreamy, goddess-like quality to skin. "The colours are radiance-boosting taupes, peaches and corals,” clarifies Lyne Desnoyers. “For this makeup to look modern it absolutely has to look like a second skin.”

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TREND WATCH

GLOW-GETTING There is a new mood with makeup this autumn; skin should gleam with health and radiance. Trudi Brewer tells us how

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he words natural, radiant and glowing have always been befitting for skin, however, this season they refer to the finish of your foundation. And spell out this season's most alluring trend for skin. "There is a move away from the super-matte or glossy skin that was so popular last season. And there is a return to healthy-looking skin that glows, without shine, that is slightly matte but not flat-looking," says Smashbox makeup artist Grayson Coutts. Confused? Well, Coutts reassures us the finish is easy to achieve and, more importantly, it's very youthful. "Ultimately, the skin should look like skin. A heavy coverage of makeup will not mimic skin well: it looks flat, reflects light differently, and can look extremely ageing." Here are the secrets to gaining a newfound luminosity, which all start with preparation and application. These are the steps to success.

1

Stay hydrated: "Start with a lightweight nourishing foundation and a light dusting of setting powder through the T-zone," says Coutts. Don't aim to even out your entire face with makeup, using blanket cover, as it wipes away any of the natural sheen. "You are

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better going for a lighter coverage foundation to even out your skin tone, and then adding a full coverage concealer in any spots that need more cover. You'll find you'll still be able to achieve a flawless look without feeling like you're wearing that muddy-looking mask of makeup."

2

Glow, don't shine: Primer is one way to guarantee a glow, and the professional industry is heaving with skin correcting solutions; from oil-controlling to colour correcting and ultra-hydrating. A light layer is all you need to correct imperfections, before adding foundation over the top. "Primer underneath foundation will also help makeup go that extra mile," says Coutts. When aiming for minimal coverage, divide the face into sections. "These sections include the left and right side of the face, forehead, nose and mouth area. Start the application in the centre of each section, and then using a brush or sponge, blend out towards the hairline and under the jawline." Next Coutts says to add a second layer just where needed but only sparingly.

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Next comes concealer: Coutts is a fan of applying concealer after foundation. "Apply foundation first, so you can see how much coverage it provides on its own. If you conceal first on the bare skin, there's a temptation to go overboard on the cover. Build makeup in layers starting with the lightest weight of coverage first and finish with the thickest."

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Contouring and strobing: For adding definition and luminosity, Coutts says they're not the same technique. "They are opposites though they work best when used together. Contouring uses a matte cool brown colour to create the illusion of shadows on the face (for example, to deepen underneath your cheekbones and jawline). Strobing is highlighting, which uses a cream or powder a shade lighter than your skin tone (and can have a matte, pearl or shimmer finish to it) to emphasise areas like tops of cheekbones, bridge of the nose and centre of the forehead." While makeup artists make these techniques appear simple, Coutts says anyone can add some dimension to the face and enhance bone structure. He recommends a palette with step-by-step instruction.

5

Don't forget your neck: The neck area is often a different colour to the face, but don't be tempted to cover it with makeup. Coutts says, "Always bring foundation underneath your jawline as this area almost never sees the sun and is usually a lot paler than your face. However, there's no need to bring foundation all the way down the neck. Opt for mineral powder down the neck and dĂŠcolletage to gently even out the different tones."

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Set to finish: A glowy makeup often needs a setting powder to avoid it from looking shiny. Coutts says, "Mineral or matte powder will make your foundation last so much longer without creasing or showing signs of wear." His technique is to press and roll. "Use a dense brush or powder puff and press and roll it all over your foundation. Then use a powder brush to dust any excess powder off the skin." Concentrate powder on the hot spots only, across the T-zone. New season foundations are plenty. Here are our picks for giving skin instant radiance...glo minerals Luxe Liquid Foundation, Osmosis Longwear Liquid Foundation in Golden Light, Jane Iredale Glow Time Full Coverage Mineral BB Cream, Smashbox Photo Finish Primer Oil, MAC Matchmaster Shade Intelligence Compact.


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SPA ZONE

PURE PAMPERING A Scandinavian-inspired spa makes its mark in South Florida

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W

hen it came time to create an unforgettable spa at the Pelican Grand Beach Resort in Fort Lauderdale, Florida, the Swedish owners drew from their firsthand knowledge of the wellness benefits of a Scandinavian lifestyle, as well as the joys of oceanfront Florida living. As such, when the resort underwent a multimillion-dollar renovation that included a new spa, the unique idea for Pure Spa was born. "The entire concept of Pure Spa was specifically geared toward introducing a Scandinavian sense of luxury and infusing it into the sun, fun, and beauty of the Atlantic Ocean,"

says Spa Director, George Powell-Lopez. Unlike some spas found in the dark subterranean recesses of many resorts, Pure Spa is located on the Pelican Grand's 11th-floor rooftop. " We invite the light," says Powell-Lopez. The 3,000-square-foot spa features three indoor treatment rooms, two outdoor spa cabanas, a relaxation room with hanging chairs, two oceanfront manicure and pedicure stations, locker rooms, and an outdoor shower, all of which offer unobstructed views. Rooftop yoga is also offered, and another highlight is the octagonal-shaped Spa Suite, which faces the Atlantic Ocean with floor-to-ceiling windows. It offers a Jason International micro-silk soaking tub for two, as well as the option of offering treatments for up to three people along with a manicure station, making it ideal for couples and small groups who want to enjoy the sublime setting. "Pure Spa provides the ultimate mind-body connection through the warm and nurturing location and creates harmony with its surroundings by incorporating elements of the ocean view at several points in the spa," says Powell-Lopez. Also important to the spa design was a Scandinavian sensibility. "The clean lines and colour of Scandinavian design shows a clear, crisp experience that is unlike many 21


CLIENT BASE 70% female 30% male

SPACE 3,000 square feet; 4 treatment rooms

spas," says Powell-Lopez. "We've used natural woods and white in much of the spa's design, highlighted by pops of colour that represent Florida and Scandinavian lifestyles. The colours are turquoise, lime green, and fuchsia. These colours are not only featured in the Jelly Bean glassware from Sweden, but they are also part of the staff's uniforms, as well as the towels and pillows on the white lounge chairs outside." Indeed, the Florida and Sweden connection is strong throughout the spa. Along with Jelly Bean glassware, the spa is the only one in the U.S. to carry Maria Akerberg's full line of organic pharmaceutical-grade skincare and cosmetic products developed and made in Sweden. Meanwhile, the spa linens come from Miami-based luxury line The Madison Collection and the U.S. headquarters of featured skincare line, Babor, is located nearby. Another distinct aspect of the spa can be found on the menu, most notably the Pure Spa signature services, which are completely customisable. The Pure You Massage, for example, allows guests to work with their therapist to personalise the treatment, selecting such options as aromatherapy, hot stones, or reflexology. The Pure You Facial meanwhile, includes cleansing, extractions, toning,

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a mask, and two add-ons of the client's choice. "Our staff is trained to ask questions and not to be afraid to find out what the guest is seeking out of their visit," says Powell-Lopez. "You would be surprised at how easy it is to meet the needs of guests and exceed them by programming your team to be insightful and inquisitive about guests' needs." In fact, it is the background and training of the team of ten full-time and three part-time staffers that also make the spa stand out. "We take training very seriously to ensure a high level of knowledge among team members," says Powell-Lopez. "Therefore, there is continuous education for our staff."

PRODUCT LINES Babor, Coola, Dogeared, SpaRitual, Feeling Smittin, Kashwere, The Madison Collection, Maria Akerberg, Soy Delicious, Tara Spa Therapy


Vendor training is a big priority for the team - Maria Akerberg flew in from Sweden to assist in launching her company in the U.S. at Pure Spa, and Babor hosted the team at their training academy in Florida. Plus, the close proximity to the academy allows the staff ongoing access to personalised service and products. "We have developed an unparalleled partnership with our vendors that allows both parties to reap the benefits of marketing together," says Powell-Lopez. Several team members also boast multiple licenses. "We ensure our guests are experiencing beyond the traditional and that our staff is always articulate and knowledgeable about the products and services offered at Pure Spa," he adds. The spa team is also working hard to make sure that the nearby community and hotel guests are familiar with the new spa, which can accommodate 30 to 35 clients a day. Short-term specials, media events and events with the International Spa Association have created local buzz and encouraged a good deal of walk-in traffic. "We work with realtors, yacht salespeople, and high-end dealerships to offer a Pure Spa gift card upon purchase of their luxury products, giving the gift of luxury instead of a common bottle of Champagne," says Powell-Lopez. "Because Pure Spa is boutique and specialises in service, word seems to get out quickly." With such an effective strategy and a unique spa concept, it's no surprise that Pure Spa has quickly found its place in the sun.

PURE SPA AT PELICAN GRAND BEACH RESORT (FT.LAUDERDALE, FLORIDA) OWNER: Jefast Pelican Grand LLC DIRECTOR OF SPA: George Powell Lopez OPENED: June 2015 ARCHITECT: FSMY Architects and Planners (Ft.Lauderdale)

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FOCUS

GREENER PASTURES

Our attraction to organic skincare is on the rise, says Trudi Brewer, who discovered how much effort goes into creating cosmetics from a field fit for your face

S

ome of the best anti-ageing ingredients started life as plants. In fact, there is a bunch of all-natural and organic ingredients that make skin look younger and smoother, and judging by the latest sales statistics, women can't get enough of them. According to The Soil Association’s newly published 2016 European Organic Market Report, sales boomed in 2015 by 21.6% to $54.2 million in the UK alone. And 31 percent of those consumers decided to go natural because of better awareness. With future sales forecasted to $13.2 billion by 2018, scientists are working eagerly to uncover and test new natural alternatives for makeup and facial creams. According to Jane Iredale, creator of her eponymously named makeup brand, women are actively seeking an alternative to the more mainstream chemical-based brands. She believes organic formulations are not only good for skin, they are also efficacious. "Sometimes consumers don’t imagine a product can be efficacious if it’s certified organic. They think it lacks science even though science is at the core of our brand." She believes another stumbling block is the understanding around the difference between organic and certified organic. So, how do we know we're lifting the lid on an organic face cream and not an imposter? Iredale says, "Look for genuine organic certification. Because many companies hide artificial ingredients behind the word natural, the only assurance of finding chemical-free cosmetics is to look for a seal of approval granted by an independent certifying body." In New Zealand, these are BIOGROW and AsureQuality (New Zealand Certified Organic). Both guarantee 100 percent natural ingredients, with 70 to 90 percent certified organic in the formulation, while Demeter is the official body for biodynamically-grown ingredients, where farmers exclude the use of chemicals during the growing process. However, the most well respected and recognised international body is ECOCERT; a French company and the first to generate standards for natural and organic cosmetics. "ECOCERT strives to promote the use of ingredients derived from renewable resources, and from organic farming, in addition to using production and manufacturing processes that are environmentally sound and safe for human health," says Iredale. ECOCERT states 95 percent of the ingredients must be of natural origin and a minimum of between five to ten percent generated 24

KEEPING IT FRESH

Organic preservatives have been the most challenging ingredients to find. However, the latest is centuries old and originates from the hub of exciting beauty trends, Korea. Michelle Woodyard, General Manager of PSB Ltd, the distributor for Jane Iredale in New Zealand who use fermented radish root as a preservative, discovered this ingredient has an interesting back-story. "It was during the SARS epidemic; researchers found chickens fed with limchi (a traditional Korean dish made of fermented vegetables) had a better rate of recovery than those fed standard poultry feed. Fermented food has powerful antimicrobial properties, and with the demand for no parabens or phenoxyethanol and other potentially harmful preservatives in personal care products, fermented vegetables provide a natural alternative," says Woodyard. "The addition of the radish root ferment protects against a whole range from organic farms. Iredale says, "It investigates of tiny nasties; from e.coli to a.niger, and is every ingredient in the formula, from cradle especially suitable for cosmetic to grave, and questions how raw materials are formulations."

produced and what impact they may have on the environment. They even look into the form of transport involved, whether it may have had a negative impact. They question biodegradable or recyclable matters, and what influence manufacture has on the environment." Along with these rigorous standards, there is also the consideration of storage and waste. With ECOCERT guiding more than 1,000 companies globally through these processes, that gold seal is not easy to secure. "The strongest microscope is reserved for the ingredients, which are analysed down to parts per million, to ensure there is no contamination. Each and every ingredient has to be certified organic," says Iredale. Even though the Jane Iredale brand has been around for over 20 years, and is one of the most trusted natural makeup lines, Iredale is continually tweaking products to fall in line with ECOCERT requirements. She believes that when you see the ECOCERT-approved seal on a product, you can trust it.

Treating Sun Damage Our greatest anti-ageing concern is brown spots, directly related to sun damage. Where previously a synthetic counterpart - hydroquinone - was all that was on offer, today's best lightening and brightening ingredients come

from Mother Nature. Soy, peony extract, Viniferine (from vine sap), daisy extract, and licorice root give skin clarity and interrupt the melanin production cycle, stopping dark spots from reaching the skin's surface.

Eliminating Dullness Sugar is public enemy number one for weight gain but when applied to the skin it boosts radiance. Fruit-derived acids have been around for years, however with the help of research, glycolic acid is the queen of all AHA's (and ideal for sensitive skins), and can be directly taken from sugar crops. The brightening results are astounding.

Erasing Wrinkles For a wrinkle-fighter that is as close to its natural form as the plant or fruit itself, extracts of sunflower, pomegranate, and camellia oil have outstanding antioxidant benefits. Not only do they firm skin, but they also continue to protect the skin from future sun damage when layered under sunscreen. They are also rich in vitamin E, to help boost collagen production.


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FOCUS

The one area on the face that’s noticed first and quickly shows your age is your eyes, says Trudi Brewer. Here’s how to take care of your best assets

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ired-looking eyes can add years to your appearance. Add fatigue, stress, and allergies and they soon appear puffy, red, and etched with fine lines. Short of surgical options, getting more sleep and eating less salt, eye creams and state-of-the-art serums play a pivotal role in how the skin around the eye area appears. Using an eye care product is the first step in every client's anti-ageing skincare regimen, and it needs to happen as early as in your 20's. Here is a guide to correcting and perfecting those peepers.

op

s n o i s u l l i l a it c

3. USE AN SPF

2. GROOM WITH CARE

If skin is starting to thin and droop around the eye area, avoid brow waxing. The hot wax combined with the constant tugging can damage the top layer of the skin and cause sensitivities. Stick to tweezing or threading for brow grooming.

The skin under the eyes is frequently neglected and needs a daily dose of sunscreen. Being thin, it's also photosensitive and prone to sun damage. Brown spots and wrinkles are the direct result of UV exposure and squinting. Suggest a a mineral-based sunscreen, such as zinc oxide and or titanium dioxide. These offer great protection and are less irritating to the eyes than chemical screens. Or opt for an eye cream that contains an SPF. When out in the sun or driving, wear sunglasses with mirrored lenses. The mirror lenses block more UV rays than regular tinted lenses, protecting the thin skin around the eye and keeping it free from damage.

1. READ THE LABELS

The skin around the eye area is drier and more sensitive than the skin on the rest of face and should be treated with extra care. Suggest creams or serums that contain clever ingredients, such as peptides, nicotinic acid, caffeine, ceramides, and retinol. These help smooth wrinkles, correct pigmentation and regenerate collagen, while reducing puffiness. Remind clients to avoid applying oil under the eyes, as this will clog glands and encourage puffy eyes, as well as those tiny white milia spots.

4. TRICKS OF THE TRADE

Celebrity makeup artists use clever tricks to correct the shape of the eyes with makeup. Here are the best tips to lift and perfect any eye shape. HOODED LIDS: Often cast shadows that can make eyes appear smaller. L.A-based Smashbox makeup artist Lori Taylor-Davis smudges a bronze metallic powder shadow along the lower lash line. "A shimmery shade brightens the under eyes, which makes the whole area appear wider and more awake-looking." DOWNTURNED LIDS: Draw a heavier line with a soft pencil or powder at the outer corner of the upper lash line, and then blend it out and up toward your temple. "Adding definition to that area will make the eyes appear larger and lifted," says Reece Witherspoon's New York-based makeup artist, Molly R. Stern. ROUND EYES: Are wide from top to bottom and need to TRY... be elongated. "Wing out both your eye shadow and liner Environ C-Quence Eye Gel; slightly," says Scarlett Johansson's New York makeup Priori Lash Recovery Serum; artist, Nick Barose. "Use extra mascara on the Medik8 Eyelift Age-Defying Eye outer third of your lashes too." Firming Gel; Osmosis Refresh PM Eye Serum for Fine Lines; Decléor Aurabsolu Intense Glow for Eyes.

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FOCUS

LIGHT

THE WAY As hormonal imbalances increase the likelihood of hyperpigmentation, salons and spas need to adopt a long-term approach to treating it. Beauty Communications expert Sharleen Singh investigates 28

F

or many spa-goers, the fight against hyperpigmentation caused by changing hormones can be a lifelong struggle. From the years spent on birth control pills, to the months of pregnancy to the transition of menopause, hormonal fluctuations - and the ensuing hyperpigmentation that can result - are constant companions. But thanks to innovative products and therapies, beauty salons and spas are becoming ever more equipped to handle the problem. It's a good thing too, because an increasing number of people are demanding it. Most professional skin care houses report that at least 10% of their company's overall clientele are concerned with pigmentation due to hormonal imbalances. It's also an issue for users of advanced rejuvenating concepts. Janae J. Muzzy, vice president of research


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FOCUS

“Hyperpigmentation is treated over time, so it often takes a month to see the results your clients are looking for.”

SPOT CHECK

and development at California's Epicurean Discovery, estimates that somewhere between half and two-thirds of skincare consumers are working to correct or actively prevent hyperpigmentation, and for the majority of those customers, it's associated with some form of hormonal imbalance.

GOING BENEATH THE SURFACE There are a variety of ways hormonal fluctuations can cause skin discolouration. According to Muzzy, the abnormal levels of estrogen or progesterone caused commonly by pregnancy, menopause, oral contraceptives, and hormone replacement therapy can promote hypersensitivity in the basal-layer melanocytes. "Melanocytes are responsible for producing melanosomes, which in turn convert tyrosine into melanin, thus giving the skin its colour," she says. "This process serves as the body's natural defense against UV rays, but when melanocytes become hypersensitive

OUR FAVOURITES FOR THE SEASON INCLUDE: Algologie White & Bright Clarifying Day Cream; Osmosis Enlighten Pigmentation Serum; Medik8 White Balance Brightening Cream & Night Cream; Sothys Brightening Illuminating Mask; Dermalogica C-12 Pure Bright Serum; Decléor Aroma White C+ Even Skin Tone Revealer.

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as a result of hormonal imbalance or disruption, the skin's natural protection mechanism becomes highly reactive and inflamed, and responds by over-producing melanin." This enthusiastic generation seems to result in hyperpigmentation called melasma (often referred to as the mask of pregnancy), a disorder that appears as areas of dark, irregular, demarcated skin, ranging in size from macules to patches on the forehead, nose, lips, and cheeks in a mask-like configuration.

TAKING THE LONG VIEW

When it comes to lightening ingredients, hydroquinone often comes to mind. While effective, it is also considered controversial due to its potential side effects. Here are some alternative ingredients that are proving to be effective in treating hyperpigmentation. Arbutin Azelaic acid Daisy flower (bellis perennis) Glycolic acid Kojic acid Licorice Mandelic acid Niacinamide Ogliopeptide 34 and 51 Retinoids Vitamin C Synovea HR (hexylresorcinal)

Combating hormonal hyperpigmentation is no easy feat. It requires longer treatment durations and lower product concentrations. This form of hyperpigmentation is a direct result of an imbalance in the body, so no matter how many


treatments or products you use, the skin will continue to react with visible hyperpigmentation until balance is restored. Fixing the issue is challenging if the client remains exposed to heightened hormone levels, and unfortunately, because melasma is often triggered by pregnancy, restoring balance can be more difficult than just changing a prescription. Treating a pregnant client requires that certain ingredients - glycolic and other acids, retinol, tretonoin - be avoided. But a stepped approach can help. Introduce certain safe products during pregnancy to reduce discolourations, and plan for more aggressive treatment post-partum or post-lactation.

GETTING THE SPOTS OUT So how do you eradicate the problem? Prescribe a series of six professional treatments two weeks apart, but it's imperative for clients to have adequate products for daily use at home. "Hyperpigmentation correction is most successful when done in concert with treatments from an aesthetician or doctor, and a consistent, effective homecare regime that includes twice-daily cleansings, gradual resurfacing - assuming no recent invasive procedure has been received - and a combination of speciality products that address multiple stages of melanogenesis," says Muzzy. Keep in mind that patience is a virtue. "Hyperpigmentation is treated over time, so it often takes a month to see the results your clients are looking for." Muzzy has found that with a series of six glycolic or lactic acid peels, and regular use of products containing AHA's, retinol, sunscreen and vitamin C, clients can see small improvements within the first 30 days, and more dramatic results within three to six months. "While effective treatment may take a month or so longer, the results are much better and more long term," she says. It's not always easy to convince a nervous client that things will get better, but it's a crucial component of successful treatment - clients must be willing to follow medical advice. "When the body has hormonal imbalances and the client wants to see a more dramatic improvement in their skin, it becomes a tug-of-war that the body usually wins, unless the client follows the professional advice of their physician," says French skincare expert and aesthetician, Vivian Mayne. "The secret recipe requires consistent care, consistency in treatment, and client compliance. It is a slow process. If you rush trying to get rid of pigmentation, it can be a nightmare and you can make it much worse." She schedules clients for monthly visits to monitor their progress and adjust

“It's not always easy to convince a nervous client that things will get better, but it's a crucial component of successful treatment - clients must be willing to follow medical advice.� their homecare routines as necessary, prescribing a melanin-suppressing regime to help even and brighten skin tone before office treatments, and depending upon skin type, salicylic peels, ultrasonic rejuvenation, and optimal microdermabrasion or lactic peels afterward. Sara Fulton, an award-winning UK aesthetician who specialises in hormonal pigmentation, takes a longer view as well, promoting a daily at-home routine that includes a cleanser, toner, corrector, and hydrator to prep the skin for further treatment. "Preconditioning for six to eight weeks prepares skin for more advanced therapy; therapy which accelerates the skin's rejuvenation process via exfolation, and non-ablative fractional laser therapy, which brings the pigmentation up from the mid-dermal level and eventually causes it to flake off," says Fulton. She notes that consistency and moderation are key. Irregular laser therapy, be it ablative or non-ablative, can cause scarring, delayed wound healing, and reactive hyperpigmentation. Extended non-ablative, fractional laser therapy or extended exposure to topical products, such as hydroquinone and retinol, can cause recurrences of pigmentation, erythema, edema, burning sensations, pain and scaling. Muzzy also recommends proceeding with caution when using chemical peels, IPL treatments and microdermabrasion. They may be highly effective but they all have the potential to cause extreme irritation. It's important to be aware of the skin's heightened sensitivity, she says, and choose post-procedure products with calming ingredients. "Calm is the most important term to remember," she says. "Stimulating hormonally hyperpigmented skin with aggressive treatments or over-exfoliation will simply stimulate more pigment or deliver no change to the current condition." Whatever you do, don't forget to stress the importance of sunblock - daily sun protection is vital in the fight against discolouration. "Avoiding UV exposure is probably the single most effective action that can be taken to prevent the formation or reduce the severity of hyperpigmentation," says Muzzy. Stick to these suggestions and your clients' skin will be clear in no time.

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FOCUS

GRAINY GOODNESS Beauty Communications expert, Sharleen Singh, covers all aspects of the goodness of exfoliation for a silky-smooth and luminous skin this season

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oft, supple skin is the ultimate goal for all of your clients. However, there is always something that hinders their progress, such as environmental damage or too much sun, leaving their skin feeling dry and rough. But fear not! There is a simple solution that you can offer them and one that most clients tend to skip during their skin care routine - the magical step of exfoliation. You know the importance of this step but it is imperative that you re-educate yourselves in the basics in order to correctly convey this message to your clients – and change their skin for the better! Your clients might be cleansing, toning and moisturising, but if they’re not exfoliating, their skin isn’t as healthy as it could be. In basic terms, exfoliation refers to the removal of the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin. As we age, the process of cell regeneration slows down, meaning that the body is slower to shed skin cells and generate new ones. When old skin cells start to pile up on the surface of the skin, it can leave it looking dull, dry and rough. As well as this, the build-up of dead skin cells can result in excess oil and clogged pores, leading to blemishes and acne, which is so not ideal! Exfoliation is so important, especially in the cooler months. When skin is dry, clients tend to load up on heavier creams. But dry skin means that you have dry skin cell build up, and the more they layer on the heavier creams, the more they’re trying to rehydrate dry skin cells – bit of a lose-lose situation for them. Performing a deep exfoliation in-spa and then a gentler experience as part of their beauty routine at home ensures that skin is smooth and ready to go. After all, most artists prefer a clean canvas to create a work of art, so why not ensure your client's skin is prepped for the rest of your prescribed skin care routine? If this doesn’t sway them, remind your clients that in seven hours, a human sheds 210,000 – 220,000 cells, most of which stay layered on. These cells need to disappear somehow, and this is where exfoliation comes to the rescue. First up, mechanical exfoliation. With the most common type being scrubs, this type

of exfoliation involves removing dead skin cells through friction. These scrubs usually contain small granules that slough off the dead cells on the surface as it is rubbed into the skin, with the most common ingredients focused on sugar or salt. This type of exfoliant is perfect for full body use, especially for clients with dry and flaky skin. Scrubs are also beneficial for those with oily skin, as these granules clean out pores and remove surface debris and makeup, preventing them from clogging pores even further. Mechanical exfoliants can be incorporated in-spa prior to the application of self-tan in the form of a body polish, or at the beginning of a facial to manually clean out pores. With regards to homecare, inform your clients that scrubs should be part of their skin care routine at least twice a week, especially before using their weekly face mask! One significant point to note is the use of microbeads in exfoliants, which your clients may bring up. The United States and Canada are banning these beads, and the Australian government is pushing for a voluntary phase-out of products, such as face wash and body wash, due to their effect on the environment. With several popular brands in New Zealand pledging their support to stop the use of microbeads in their products, we are more than likely heading towards an all-out ban. It’s crucial to note this, and start introducing alternative exfoliating methods if need be. It’s an important issue to keep in mind, especially as it has been a popular topic in the media recently. On the other end of the spectrum, we have chemical exfoliants. These remove dead skin cells by dissolving the glue-like substance that binds them together. Most of these exfoliants use salicylic acid, alpha hydroxyl acid (AHA), beta hydroxyl acids (BHA) or retinol. Unlike mechanical exfoliants, chemical exfoliants are simply applied to the skin and then rinsed or peeled off - no scrubbing required - making it beneficial for dry, sensitive and ageing skin. This type of exfoliant can come in the form of an everyday cleanser or moisturiser, or for a deeper exfoliation, a masque or peel which can be done either in-salon or at home. While this type of peel is beneficial for most, your clients with sensitive skin should be steered towards

“it is imperative that you re-educate yourselves in the basics in order to correctly convey this message to your clients – and change their skin for the better!”

32


important to drive these points home. You could be adding these products to your waxing packages as a take-home incentive, as well as offering an enzyme mask to be used in between salon visits. These increase your retail sales as well as ensuring that your client experiences optimum results for their skin. Along with these products, consider introducing other added value items, such as a dry brush or loofah as an exfoliation promotion. These items also help in regard to exfoliation as a more “eco-friendly” option. When it comes to exfoliation, the goal should be to use a product or method that allows you to exfoliate as much as possible with minimal irritation to achieve the smooth, healthy and radiant skin every client desires. With the proper information, and a nudge in the right direction, your clients can enjoy healthier-looking skin this season. Once introduced to this must-have step, your clients will be life-long converts – and the goal for soft, supple skin is much closer than they imagined, thanks to your help! Not only does exfoliation refresh skin instantly, there are a multitude of methods for its use; from scrubs to peels and everything in between, there are endless options for all skin types, as well as the different ways products may be used. It’s your job to ensure both you and your client know which method would be most beneficial for their skin type to avoid potentially injuring their skin and causing future damage.

“Not only does exfoliation refresh skin instantly, there are a multitude of methods for its use; from scrubs to peels and everything in between. It’s your job to ensure both you and your client know which method would be most beneficial for their skin type to avoid potentially injuring their skin and causing future damage.”

peels that contain natural plant-derived enzymes. As a rule of thumb, exfoliating once to twice a week is a good routine to keep up. The skin likes little boosts, but not on a daily basis. However, if your client isn’t sure, then an unconventional test for your client to see if they have surface dry skin cells would be to take a piece of clear tape and apply it to the forehead. Once removed, if there are little pieces of flaky skin then it’s definitely time to exfoliate! Clients may assume that if a little is good, a lot must be better but this isn’t the case with exfoliation. Overexfoliation can result in dehydration and increased exposure to environmental toxins. But done correctly, and with your expert advice, the search for healthier skin will be within reach in no time. With the warmer season waving its goodbyes, you should already be preparing your spa or salon for the ‘exfoliation season’. Seasonal exfoliation promotions are great opportunities to book those extra treatments. Your in-spa or salon skin care range should ideally already be offering exfoliation products that you should be able to easily incorporate into any treatment, as well as being a tremendous asset to your business's profit margin. You should already be mentioning at-home exfoliation to your waxing clients to prevent ingrown hairs, as well as using an exfoliant before applying self-tan, but it’s

33


FOCUS

scrub UP

Reveal a radiant new complexion this season with our face and body exfoliating favourites

1

6

2

7

Thalgo Exfoliating Lotion

Formulated with Clear Expert Complex and a high content of exfoliating salicylic acid, this brightening and rejuvenating lotion is ideal for those with visible pigmentation or preventing its appearance. Skin recovers its radiance and readies itself for further nourishment. From Infinisea.

Medik8 Pore Refining Scrub

A dual-action scrub with physical exfoliating particles, plus AHA and BHA hydroxy acids. Developed to provide deep pore cleansing and daily exfoliation in one formula, this passionflower and honeysuckle-infused exfoliator also promotes natural renewal of skin cells, leaving it smooth and soft. From House of Camille.

3

Osmosis Polish Enzyme Mask

This delicious cranberry enzyme, skin-smoothing, antioxidant mask offers a gentle way to remove damaged keratinized cells. Designed to remove only the exfoliating epidermal layers to minimise lipid removal, Polish provides a firming effect and radiant glow.

4

ASPAR Wattleseed & Walnut Resurfacing Body Scrub

Boost radiance and enhance skin renewal with this softening and skin smoothing spa ritual treatment. Containing multi-active exfoliators and enriched with hand-blended pure essential oils, this gentle yet effective resurfacing cream leaves skin renewed and glowing. From Self Care Group.

5

Dermalogica Multivitamin Thermafoliant

A thermal skin exfoliant infused with age-fighting ingredients, this powerful skin polisher combines physical and chemical exfoliants to refine skin texture, enhance penetration of age-fighting vitamins into skin, and reveal smoother, fresher skin immediately.

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Synergie Skin Luciderm Exfoliating Serum

A revolutionary acid-free exfoliating serum, Luciderm is suitable for even the most sensitive skin types, including those suffering from rosacea and eczema. It enhances skin’s natural enzyme activity to exfoliate, smooth, brighten and reduce the appearance of fine lines and flaking, rough skin. From Beauty Care Ltd.

Elizabeth Arden PRO Brightening Peel Pads

These multitasking exfoliating treatment pads with an advanced skin brightening agent are designed to normalise the appearance of uneven skin tones. After use, skin appears more luminous, radiant and silky-smooth. From Self Care Group.

8

Sothys Micro-Gel Peeling Face Scrub

With a light and quickly absorbed texture, this pro-youthfulness gentle grain scrub regenerates skin, provides radiance and lastingly restores moisture. The paraben-free formula with white tea extract removes dead cells at the same time to promote cell renewal. From de Spa Cosmetics.

9

Environ AVST Hydrating Exfoliant Masque

As a 2-in-1 beauty fix, this exfoliant masque is designed specifically to improve hydration and simultaneously remove excess oil from the skin’s surface. The inclusion of the finest kaolin clay acts as a microexfoliant, while mineral oil and vitamin E work to provide hydration. From PSB.

10

Fleur de Mer Daily Mini Peel Powder

This unique powder activates with water in the palms of your hands. Massage the smooth creamy paste onto your face where the salicylic acid will gently start to peel away the top layer of skin without any roughness. With the addition of antioxdiant green tea, cucumber, vitamin C and oatmeal, healthier lovelier skin is instantly revealed. From World Beaute.


A-Peeling - time to shed some skin (and light) on peels There is no better time to start using a glycolic, lactic or salicylic acid on the skin than from June through to September. Winter and early spring offer an opportunity to introduce peels in the form of acids or enzymes. The instant results are so gratifying, both to the client and the therapist, that these facials are some of the most popular in spas and salons around the world. Aggressive peels are not as common these days as clients just don’t want to put up with the possible discomfort and down-time that can accompany them. Mild to medium peels more regularly are an ideal option, as the skin is still refreshed and collagen formation is stimulated. Ultimately the combination of a relaxing AND results-orientated treatment fulfils the needs of our time-starved clients. But how safe are they? What are the best in the market? What should you be introducing? As responsible therapists we need to be keeping clients and the industry safe, as well as erasing the blurred lines when it comes to national beauty protocols and policies. Look for our ‘A-peeling’ article and focus next season and read what the experts have to say. 35


NEW PRODUCTS

1 2 3 3 OF THE BEST‌ Elizabeth Arden PRO Skin Brightening Serum contains a combination of AHA Retinoid Conjugate and Chlorogenic Acids to brighten and normalise uneven skin tones. Skin is left luminous, radiant and smooth. From Self Care Group. Medik8 Glow Oil contains a blend of 12 essential oils, Omega 3 and 6 oils, and vitamin C to hydrate, nourish and restore skin. It's also the ideal solution for targeting dark circles and puffiness. From House of Camille. St Tropez Luxe Facial Oil gives the most luxurious tan yet, lasting up to 7 days. Containing a 100% natural tanning agent for all skins, this ultra-hydrating oil promotes a beautiful, glowing, streak-free finish. From CS Company.

Fatigue Fighter

BEAUTY Skin Is In

shelf

With the 'no-makeup makeup' look taking over, Jane Iredale's Skin Is In collection is not only good for skin but also highlights features naturally and beautifully. The range includes the Naturally Matte Eyeshadow Kit in five gorgeous shades, Flawless PurePressed Blush, White Tea PureGloss and the GreatShape Eyebrow Kit. From PSB.

Dermalogica Charcoal Rescue Masque detoxifies, brightens and invigorates all skin types. Fast-acting and easily removed, the masque rescues tired, lacklustre or dull skin. Activated Binchotan Charcoal powerfully absorbs impurities while sulphur promotes cell turnover for dramatically brighter skin. From Skin Health Experts.

With the 'no-makeup makeup' look taking over, Jane Iredale's collection is not only good for skin but also highlights features naturally

Base Desires A silky, oil-free primer with pure mineral sun protection, glo Minerals Tinted Primer SPF30 glides on to instantly even skin tone, mask imperfections and provide all-day coverage. Wear alone for sheer radiance or to prep foundation for a flawless complexion. From Self Care Group.

Bright Eyes An advanced time-release vitamin A eye night serum, Medik8 Retinol Eye TR contains highly stable, pure, encapsulated all-trans retinol at 0.1% concentration, with a powder dry finish. This age-defence serum provides the eye area with a bright, vivid, revitalised appearance, helping reduce fine lines, wrinkles and dark spots. From House of Camille. 36


Pure Vitamin Skincare for Radiant Skin

NEW SKINCARE RANGE

Single-dose dermocosmetic skincare capsules containing pure vitamins in their most active and potent form Achieve radiance, hydrate and fight the visible signs of aging with MonoDermà’s ® unique formulations. With its patented biodegradable shell MonoDermoDose , MonoDermà guarantees optimal concentrations that are free from preservatives, colourants and fragrances. For details on becoming a stockist or for more information contact us on: T: 0800 105 107 | E: info@selfcaregroup.co.nz | selfcaregroupNZ | www.selfcaregroup.co.nz


BUSINESS

the new client AN ENDANGERED SPECIES? N What is missing to ensure you 'lure and secure' new customer business? Sharyn Raiti investigates

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ew clients are incredibly valuable. Once upon a time they were in abundance, now they are seemingly a rarity to our salons. So where are all the new clients? Where are they going or more importantly, where are they staying? Are they with you in your salon or have they moved on? What are you doing to keep your new clients? Are you tracking client retention - as a salon and by the individual? New clients are precious and must be treated with the utmost care, consideration and follow-up. Never has new client business been more important, so I have summed up what I believe are the key areas to focus on to secure and keep a new client once they have graced your business doors. Firstly, start with 100% effort - nothing less and perhaps even more. Our customers are incredibly perceptive these days; they can spot genuine care and consideration - or lack of - a mile away. They are on the look-out for specific business attributes such as outstanding hygiene, excellent customer service, high standards in grooming, consistency in all aspects, effective time management, great results, innovation with products and equipment and, above all, solid evidence that you want their business. Proving you want their business should be obvious and basic, but somehow we are missing the mark. In a heavily customer service-based industry, salons are losing new clients before they have a chance to keep them. So what

is going on? In recent times I have been listening carefully to salon customer feedback and personally conducting mystery shopper evaluations in salons, clinics and spas. Based on this feedback, I have compiled a list of what is missing to 'lure and secure' new customer business. Here are the four biggest irritations as specified by new customers and my suggested solutions...

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"As a new client, I am required to fill out a consultation form, which I fully understand and agree with, so taking the time to do this, I personally think the information should be seen as valuable. On the many occasions I have been to a salon, the therapist looks at the paperwork but I feel like nothing on the form is addressed or even referred to, so it becomes a pointless exercise and a waste of time. Even worse, I write all my contact details down but I never hear from the salon. I don't like wasting my time, it's too precious." SOLUTION: Identifying the needs of the client starts with accurate consultation which forms a large part of their needs. Devote time to reading the information; the customer trusts and wants to know your professional thoughts. Use a highlighter to denote important comments made. When you highlight the consultation form you are fully engaged and reading the content with thought, planning and personalising the needs of this person. How


aware are you as a therapist? Can you really read what the customer wants and can you see below the layers of the comments that have been made? Are you focusing at 120%? Are you contacting the client via email, phone or post - or how are you keeping contact? Customers willingly give us their personal details and it is our responsibility to keep them close. Are you calling new clients one week after they have been to your salon to ask about their experience or to ask them back if they didn't rebook on departure? This is essential.

2

"The first time I attended my local salon I had a therapist who performed a lovely treatment and so I went back. However, she was away so I agreed to try someone else. I was okay about getting a different therapist, but I felt really cheated when the first therapist did more for me than the second one. I wonder about my value for money, or maybe poor training of the therapist, and of course, that makes me picky about who I want next time." SOLUTION: Customers notice when treatments change or systems alter in a business mostly human behaviour prefers sameness. This makes the experience enjoyable because they know what to expect and are happy to pay for that. Ensuring consistency means assessment of current therapist standards, ongoing training, evaluation and more training. Being consistent doesn't mean boring, but making sure value for money is understood by your staff. You should have systems and policies in place so you are all uniform. Customers want consistency and if you intend to do an extra service or step outside of the procedure, ensure it is with intention. "Mrs White, this is not normally part of your facial treatment but today I want to introduce you to a body exfoliant that would be ideal for you to use weekly on your dry skin." The intention is to sell Mrs White the body exfoliant or introduce her to body services. Always think: outcome before action!

3

"I received a flyer in my mailbox so I thought I would try the new salon - they said they specialised in facials. While the facial was really nice, the therapist didn't tell me what products she was using on my skin so I had no idea what I needed to buy after the treatment." SOLUTION: A common irritant is seems; our customers clearly want to know what products they need, so there is no point in holding back with your professional opinion. If you conduct a flawless skin diagnosis, detailed consultation process and have clear direction with the client's treatment, the product selection should be the next step to meeting the customer's needs. Each skincare application step should be mentioned, referring back to their key concerns. There is no need to bombard them with too much information; keep it simple and focused on their specific needs and when it comes time to close the sale, the customer will be able to recall the product steps more easily. At the close of the sale, it is essential to place your recommended home care products in front of the client - this personalises them and makes it easy to understand. My preference has always been to separate into daily and weekly categories, then close the sale!

4

"I tried a salon near my workplace and booked well in advance as I have a busy agenda. When I arrived, I was kept waiting for ten minutes and then the therapist was really slow with my waxing treatment. I was late back to work and my boss was not impressed. I won't be going back." SOLUTION: Time is more precious than money these days. No-one seems to have excess time, life is so busy and we tend to work to rigid schedules without exception. Keeping customers waiting is simply not acceptable. I know many shoppers who have left a store and either bought online or gone elsewhere because they were kept waiting for unreasonable amounts of time. Why not offer duet services for the time-poor in lunch-time periods and be sure to train your therapists in using a stop watch to keep them time-efficient. "Our therapists are on time, every time!" - now there's a statement sure to gain more new customers. Your new customers are more precious than gold - make sure you follow through to convert them into existing clients to ensure a secure business for today and the future. Ask your new customers for feedback; call them, do surveys, ask what you could be doing better, what they want more of, what do we need to do less of? Sometimes we are so busy in the noise of our day we don't hear what valuable comments our customers make, for us and for them.

Design the perfect LOOK for every MOMENT www.facebook.com/Algologie/Fleurdemer Phone: 0800 33 888 3 info@worldbeaute.co.nz www.worldbeaute.co.nz

Sharyn Raiti is a Queensland trainer, coach, beauty industry specialist and the director of Mentor Business Management; a business coaching and training organisation dedicated to addressing the needs and communicating specifically with the beauty and wellness industry. mentormanagement.com.au. 39


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FOCUS

Raw

into the season Liz Lamb introduces the ‘dirty dozen’ this autumn and gives us some handy shopping tips as well

S

hould you really worry about buying organic vegetables? It seems as if the whole world has suddenly woken up to all of the sprays and pesticides that are used on our food crops, and it can appear to be complicated. Not everyone has an unlimited budget to buy 100% organic, or time to grow their own vegetables in the garden, so I’m going to share the findings of the ‘dirty dozen’ sprayed fruit and veges in NZ, as well as some foods that you don’t have to be as worried about buying organic.

What are pesticides? Pesticides are any substances that are used to destroy, suppress or alter the life of any pest. They are really important in helping farmers produce consistent crops and have helped revolutionize global food production. A large amount of scientific research has gone into making sure that the pesticides used don’t have bad effects on our health but plenty of people remain skeptical about these claims and prefer to avoid pesticidesprayed foods.

When is it important to eat organic? New Zealand’s ‘dirty dozen’ looks at the percentage of food that has pesticide residue, along with the number of pesticides detected in the study. The front runners are grapes, celery and bok choy. These are followed by nectarines, oranges, strawberries, spring onions, lemons, wheat, cucumber, pears and broccoli. Our dirtiest fruit – grapes - had 35 different pesticides on 98.2% of the grapes examined. That’s a lot of pesticides on a lot of grapes! One good trick to minimise pesticide residue is to ensure you wash your vegetables and fruit thoroughly before you eat them. The best thing to do is put all your fruit You’ll find eating and veg through a vinegar wash of 1 part vinegar to 3 parts water before you local and seasonal organic can be store them away. The vinegar will remove the pesticides but will not leave a lot cheaper than buying sprayed behind a vinegary taste.

vegetables from the supermarket. Make an effort to go to your nearest farmers market It is usually acceptable to buy fruit and vegetables with a thick skin and you’ll be buying some of the freshest as it prevents pesticides from touching the edible fruit. These include produce you can get. Notice how much avocados, rock melons, pineapples, mangoes, papayas, watermelon, carrots more delicious and flavorsome it tastes (make sure you peel them!), corn, and kumara. Also onion, asparagus and cabbage don’t hold on to pesticides as much as other fruit and veges, as well, and therefore less waste resulting in lower levels of pesticide residue. Always thoroughly wash the skin in the crisper section of of any non-organic fruit and remove the skin where possible. your fridge! Your health is too important to gamble with so hopefully this article will equip When is it safe to buy non-organic?

you with some easy-to-make changes that will see you more pesticide-free than before. Happy eating! Liz Lamb is a BSc/BCom graduate as well as a NZ representative high jumper. She is a keen foodie and baker who is passionate about helping others understand the science behind our healthy food choices. Follow her on instagram - @whysohealthy and visit her website www.whysohealthy.com 42

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Hwvol39no1 Autumn 2016  
Hwvol39no1 Autumn 2016  
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