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HAIR BEAUTY FASHION NEW ZEALAND / WINTER 2015 / VOL.38 NO.2

headway


FOCUS

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Distributed by Euro Salon Supplies Email: info@eurosalonsupplies.co.nz www.eurosalonsupplies.co.nz facebook.com/eurosalonsupplies


Eva Green for L'OrĂŠal Professionnel


BE PREPARED FOR THE NEXT COLOUR PHENOMENON

BROWN BLONDE

BRONDE

B E S P O K E CO LO U R O N LY AC H I E V E D B Y P R O F E S S I O N A L CO LO U R I S T S | E X P E R I E N C E T H E H I G H P E R F O R M A N C E

O F N E W I N OA M O C H A S H A D E S | B O O S T YO U R B U S I N E S S BY O F F E R I N G T H E L AT E S T CO LO U R I N G T E C H N I Q U E S | TA L K TO YO U R L’O R É A L P R O F E S S I O N N E L T EC H N I C I A N TO B O O K YO U R B R O N D E E D U C AT I O N

*TNS salon survey, New Zealand, 2014

BY


JennIFeR MoRgan

MoRgan & MoRgan auckland guest aRtIst

Jenny eastwood MoRph haIR haMIlton

kylIe hayes

Moha haIRdRessIng dunedIn

geMMa woods suRReal haIR chRIstchuRch

Mana dave

Blaze & pony pRoFessIonal auckland

the Redken ouR stylIsts. youR haIR authoRIty.


zoe claRk dRy & tea auckland

tIM RIwhI

tu Meke haIR alexandRa

natasha BoustRIdge Blaze auckland

dave RogeRs MoRph haIR haMIlton

aRtIstIc teaM REDKEN.CO.NZ


HAIRCARE NEW ZEALAND

REUZEL


Together. A passion for hair


EXPERIENCE NEW

IGORA ROYAL PEARLESCENCE 8 stunning new shades for multi-tonal pearl effects on blonde and light brown hair. Visit us at schwarzkopf-professional.co.nz Available August 2015

LIKE US SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL NZ | WWW.SCHWARZKOPF-PROFESSIONAL.CO.NZ


Contents 16 editor’s note 24

prof ile

Master of Style: Andrew Barton 26 Fashion Insider: Kim Draper

38 focus

28 Style File: Danny Pato

Fashion Week: What's in it For Us?

34 Turning Heads: Chinney Yeap & Lenard Johnston

68 The Ultimate Trophy

36 Creative Visionary: Angelo Seminara 40 My Favourite Things: Brad Lepper 42 A Winning Formula: Dave Rogers 118 The Evolution of Skin Needling 140 A Beauty-Full Life: Sarah Marquez

108 Pure Skin

44 nz awards

Mane Event: Hair Expo 2015

70 international Shine

76 One Girl, Eleven Looks 84 Shades of Grey

94 business

The Power of Communication 96 Colour Your World

58 trend watch Looks We Love 92 Modern Style 116 Men's Room 120 All That Glitters

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104 Dream Weavers 126 Clinic SOPS 132 Self-Development in the Beauty Industry

128 Winter Beauty It List 144 Raw: Into The Season


Colour protection begins the day of your colour service

VITAMINO COLOUR A•OX

Colour perfecting professional haircare SELL VITAMINO TO BE IN TO WIN 1 OF 100 CLARISONIC CLEANSING DEVICES VALUED AT $225 RRP* Terms and conditions apply and can be found on entry forms at participating L’Oréal Professionnel salons.


® HAIR BEAUTY FASHION NEW ZEALAND / WINTER 2015 / VOL.38 NO.2

EDITOR

Charmaine Guest charmaine@selfcaregroup.co.nz ph : +64 9 579 5188 ART DIRECTOR

Karla Farrar karla@mintideas.co.nz DESIGN

Kirralee Fisher kirralee@mintideas.co.nz EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTORS

Charmaine Guest, Stephen Handisides, Richard Kavanagh, Liz Lamb, Larissa Macleman, Wendy Maxwell, Nadia McCracken, Anne O'Brien, Sharleen Singh, Catherine Stone, Gay Warden. PRINTING

Bell Print EDITORAL & ADVERTISING

Contact information : PO Box 14447, Panmure, Auckland 1741 Telephone : +64 9 579 5188 Fax : +64 9 579 7921 Email : charmaine@selfcaregroup.co.nz ADVERTISING RATES SUPPLIED ON REQUEST EDITORIAL

Editorial and pictorial submissions are welcomed. All pictures, prints, manuscripts, and electronic media should be marked with the contributor’s name, contact phone number and address. No material will be returned unless requested and accompanied by a stamped, addressed envelope. No liability or responsibility can be accepted for any loss or damage. CIRCULATION

Headway is widely circulated throughout New Zealand hair, beauty, nail salons and spas. Headway subscription rates in New Zealand are $45.00 (including GST and postage) for one year. HEADWAY® INTERNATIONAL HAIR & BEAUTY FASHION NEW ZEALAND is published by Self Care Group Ltd, 1016a Great South Road, Penrose, Auckland. HEADWAY is published quarterly in March, June, September and December. It is distributed to all paid subscribers, advertisers and their assigns, and widely circulated through New Zealand professional hairdressing and beauty care salons. All statements, including product claims, are those of the person or organisation making them and do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the publisher. While every care is taken, no liability is assumed or accepted by the publishers for any omissions or errors in articles, listings and advertisements, or any losses due to any omissions or errors.© 2015 Self Care Group Limited. HEADWAY® , ‘HEADWAY INTERNATIONAL HAIR & BEAUTY FASHION NEW ZEALAND ”, and “New Zealand HAIR & BEAUTY” are trademarks of Self Care Group Ltd. All articles, illustrations and materials published herein are copyright and are not to be copied, reproduced or distributed in anyway without the express permission of the publisher. All rights reserved. 16


Crew Distributors 0800 CREW66 info@crewdistributors.co.nz


Editor's letter Winter can get a bad rap. Yes, it's freezing and usually raining too. We're depleted of vitamin D and spend mornings before work defrosting our cars. We get up in the dark and arrive home in the dark. Carefully coiffed hairstyles can be ruined in less than two minutes upon venturing outside. But there are many wonderful things about the cooler season too; steaming-hot baths filled with luxurious oils; snuggling up in front of a roaring fire with a pile of magazines; indulging in comfort food with minimal guilt factor; watching back-to-back box sets of our favourite shows...the list goes on. And despite the cold snap, hair and beauty events have been thick on the ground the past few months. Hairdressers Michael Beel and Richard Kavanagh deserve a round of applause for their respective wins at the Schwarzkopf Professional Hair Expo Awards in June. We celebrate their beautiful work and the collections of all the deserving New Zealand finalists in this edition. It was also fantastic to see some of our talented Kiwi hair artists on stage during Expo weekend educating and showcasing the unique aesthetic that we have become known for. Check out the highlights in our Mane Event feature (page 44). We're big supporters of the annual Kitomba/NZARH Business Awards, held this year in November. I strongly encourage all salons who think they've got what it takes to enter. Helping judge this competition last year gave me a fascinating insight into the ingenuity, creativity and business acumen of so many New Zealand salons. Morph Hair owner Dave Rogers (his salon took out three awards in 2014), has plenty of great things to say about why salons should enter. He shares his story of success in A Winning Formula (page 42). I'm also really excited to be joining Redken again for their annual 'Tribe' event. Later this month, we're off to the winter wonderland of Queenstown for a weekend of education, inspiration - and if last year was anything to go by - a whole lot of fun! In terms of beauty, Dr Catherine Stone educates us on the do's and don'ts of lip enhancement; Nadia McCracken discusses the key bylaw changes currently affecting the industry; and we speak with Environ founder Dr Des Fernandes on The Evolution of Skin Needling. Plus, our Dream Weavers, Pure Skin and Snow Bunnies features are a great reminder that skin needs a little more attention during the cooler months. Enjoy this issue and remember to celebrate all the beautiful things our New Zealand winter has to offer.

Charmaine Visit Headway's new-look website at www.headway.net.nz For style inspiration and news, join us at facebook.com/headwaymagazine

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REACTIVATE HAIR YOUTH

DENSIFIQUE SÉRUM JEUNESSE

*By Kérastase

Density, Volume, Shine, Manageability, in one gesture. Innovation*: Stémoxydine + AOX Complex. Regain the power of youthful hair, beautiful, easy to style. Find your salon kerastase.com

ONLY IN THE MOST SELECTIVE SALONS


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Image: Koh Tanyawanicha-Pong

hair

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FOCUS

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BRAID ENVY We're lusting after this look graced by Sienna Miller at Cannes and thanks to the launch of Redken Braid Aid 03, getting the look is that much easier. This defining hair lotion adds both smoothness and grip, to make braiding and twisting simpler and longer-lasting.

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SKY HIGH Get up to 400% more volume with TIGI S-Factor Stunning Volume Shampoo. The full-bodied formula with jojoba, nettle and pro-vitamin B5 gives massive lift to even the dullest, most lifeless hair.

SEASONAL winter updates

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HIGH IMPACT For vibrant richness or pastels that pack a punch, check out PHB's Lust Colour, an ammonia and peroxide-free semi-permanent range enriched with Argan Oil to strengthen whilst delivering colour brilliance. The 16 creative shades can be used on their own or intermixed for an endless colour palette of coppers, reds, violets, greens, blues, yellows and rich browns. Plus, Lust colours can easily be softened into sumptuous pastels by mixing with Soft Pastel shade. 22

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GLIDE TIME ghd launch their most savvy styler to date - ghd Platinum. Platinum uses safer-for-hair heat delivering ultimate styling in one stroke, plus the patented technology is proven to leave hair stronger and shinier than ever. The unique patented wishbone hinge and ergonomic design allow for perfect plate alignment and better control; wider plates also help create your quickest style yet.

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STYLING WITH THE KARDASHIANS There's no escaping the Kardashians, and now you can have them in your hair too! The girls have launched a styling range - Kardashian Beauty Hair - and our pick is Volume Foam with Black Seed Oil, for hair as big and lush as Kim's.


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CHILD'S PLAY Angel En Provence Kids Tea Tree range introduces four gentle products designed especially for little ones. The Body Wash, Shampoo, Conditioner and Detangler all feature the antiseptic and cleansing properties of tea tree, along with honey and sweet almond extract to nourish and protect sensitive skin.

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KICK BRASS Dark-haired beauties fear lightening no more, thanks to Joico Color Balance Blue Shampoo and Conditioner. With a perfect dose of tone-correcting blue pigments and colour-protecting Multi-Spectrum Defense Complex, this duo instantly neutralize brassy/orange tones, while preserving 89% of hair colour for up to 18 washes.

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MEN'S ROOM TIGI Bedhead For Men have re-launched, with streamlined, high-performance formulas and sharp new packaging. New additions join the line-up, including Clean-Up Daily Shampoo, ideal for removing product residue and packed with sunflower seed and lemongrass extract for healthy looking hair.

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BOTTLED BEAUTY We're in love with this gorgeous little bottle of texture and volume: Puff.Puff by Pure. This weightless, micro-mist, dual-action formulation provides pliable control, fullness and texture, along with conditioning benefits, shine and softness.

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NEW KID ON THE BLOCK Committed to the growth of the New Zealand hairdressing industry, Haircare New Zealand opened its doors in April. The importer and distributor of salon-only hair and beauty brands say they will be combining exceptional brands with unrivalled education and business partnership programs, to help grow and support salon businesses. The first brands being launched are the much-loved Moroccanoil and evo brands, along with newcomer, Reuzel.

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GOLD RUSH Inspired by kintsukuroi - the Japanese art of using gold or silver-laced lacquer to repair broken ceramics - O&M Project Sukuroi Golden Smoothing Balm transforms hair into glossy sleekness. The balm seals damaged fibres together in the same way, creating lustrously repaired strands.

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PURE LUXURY Treat hair to the divine Pure Pearl Miracle Bath. This creamy shampoo features mother of pearl and powerful antioxidants to provide the perfect balance of strength and velvety softness to all types of damaged hair.

A CLASSIC REINVENTED L’Oréal Professionnel's colour care collection- série expert Vitamino Color A.Ox - has undergone a renovation. The eight-product range for colour fixing and perfecting now contains UV filters and potent antioxdiants for protection and radiance, along with new formula architecture - SiPQ6 F3 - leaving hair softer, lighter and shinier than ever before.

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FROM SICILY WITH LOVE The newest addition to the Davines Essentials family is the Minu collection, for illuminating and preserving coloured hair. Featuring Caper Blossom Extract for its protective properties, and with a scent of orange blossom, we love Minu Shampoo's rich, full-bodied lather for keeping our hair super-shiny.

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BRUNETTE BRILLIANCE Schwarzkopf Professional IGORA Royal High Power Browns lighten naturally dark hair up to four levels in one step without pre-lightening. High Definition Powerlift Technology optimises the colouring process for hairdressers, allowing more time for getting creative with the 8 shades. Plus, the experts have come up with three hot looks: Reflex Brown, Brown Ombré and Cool Brown.

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IT'S ALL ABOUT LENGTH Whether slicked back, pulled high and tight or worn down in loose waves, the hairstyles on the spring runways had one thing in common: serious length. Start growing out your bobs and lobs because long hair is back and it's cooler than ever. Most wanted? Bombshell blow-outs, boho waves, long pony-tails, braids and big buns.

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TURN UP THE VOLUME With big hair on-trend for the upcoming season, get the look with Redken Stay High 18. Created by session guru Guido Palau as part of his Fashion Collection styling range, this is the perfect pick for gaining some oversized volume. "With Stay High, you get the hold of a gel and the airiness of a mousse, so whether you want a little bit of root lift or a full head of volume, this is your go-to product," says Guido.


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FRESHEN UP Containing 99.5% natural ingredients, Organic Colour Systems Revive Volumising Dry Shampoo is the perfect hair pick-me-up, enhancing volume and manageability with a super-fine and lightweight non-aerosol powder spray.

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TRAVEL LIGHT An ideal companion for mid-winter holidays, the Silver Bullet Metallic Baby dryers are styling superstars. With powerful airflow and a long-lasting motor, Silver Bullet dryers are renowned for their quick-dry prowess, and the new baby versions are light yet powerful.

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TONE UP Get the perfect blonde in 5-10 minutes with Professional By Fama Colour Toners. An ammonia-free, demi-permanent range, the delicate action of the gel-creams nourish and hydrate, leaving hair with body and shine. With 7 nuances - Cinnamon Beige, Charcoal/Anthracite, Ice, Sand, Honey and Beige - a new generation of pigments, 99.9% pure, feature tiny molecules that offer better cuticle penetration and more even toning.

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HARD WORKER Pureology's first co-washing collection fights hair aggravations and prevents colour fade. Pureology Cleansing Condition provides 25% cleansing and 74% conditioning in three gentle treatments, combining a low-lather cleansing base with rich conditioning ingredients. Perfect for dry, curly, fragile and coarse colour-treated hair.

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COLOUR BURST De Lorenzo Novacolor just got more creative with limited-edition Coloured Powder Lighteners. Saturating hair with intense colour, the lighteners contain colour molecules that are stable to alkaline conditions and the lightening process. The result is lift and deposit, permanent colouring in 20 minutes. Available in pink, purple and turquoise.

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YOUTH MOVEMENT The first youth activator for hair, Kérastase Densifique Sérum Jeunesse is an ultra-potent formulation that restores hair’s most youthful attributes - shine, strength and manageability. Inspired by skincare, the serum contains a potent blend of antioxidants, vitamins and patented molecule Stemoxydine, which significantly amplifies hair density.

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PROFILE

ANDREW'S FAVOURITES BOOK: The Untethered Soul by Michael A Singer. CELEBRITY CRUSH: Cate Blanchett and Tom Hardy. RESTAURANT: The Ivy, London. GUILTY PLEASURE: New Zealand Hokey Pokey ice cream! ITEM OF CLOTHING: Gucci loafers. FRAGRANCE: Christian Dior. WAY TO RELAX: Exercise. FILM: Casablanca. HAIR ICON: Debbie Harry.

MASTER OF STYLE

andrew barton 5 MINUTES WITH BRITISH HAIRDRESSING ICON, ANDREW BARTON

A

ndrew Barton is one of the UK's most iconic hairdressing names; British Hairdresser of the Year and Hair Icon of the Year are amongst his many industry and consumer award titles. As Creative Director of the luxurious Urban Retreat at Harrods, Barton's on speed-dial for the fashionistas of London and his work continues to grace global magazines, from cover to editorial. Andrew was recently in New Zealand, sharing his business and creative ideas with a receptive Rodney Wayne audience, and we took the opportunity to find out more about the man known for his love of beautiful, sexy-looking hair. What brought you to New Zealand? I was invited by the Rodney Wayne group and L'Oréal Professionnel to present a combination of business and inspirational training seminars. It’s part of the work I do globally and I’m proud to be in New Zealand flying the British hairdressing flag. The objective of working with the Rodney Wayne team was to share business principles and best practices, whilst encouraging creative thinking. A big drive was around the customer and her changing needs and expectation of service. I have been truly inspired and blown away by Rodney and his passion and understanding for what our industry needs to do to keep customers coming through our doors.

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What did you learn about the Rodney Wayne business while you were here? It's fascinating to spend time in other salon businesses, as they can offer a different approach to many things but what was incredibly enjoyable for me was the team's openness to grow. I was amazed by the level of support and investment that the Rodney Wayne management team provides their salons and each other. Sharing different approaches stimulates change and is therefore a balanced process. What’s inspiring you currently? I’m very inspired by the team that work with me as Creative Director for Urban Retreat at Harrods, one of the world’s most successful salons. I’m inspired by the heritage of the brand and all we do to provide new and unique services. As Creative Director I’m responsible for the hair vision and quality of hairdressing the team creates and for their education and creative development. Working with a great team with a vision to be the best has always been inspiring to me. What’s a working week like for you? My work schedule is diverse and can involve anything from editorial shoots, seeing clients at the salon, working in the office with the marketing team, travelling or presenting seminars. Working in the lab developing new products for my signature hair care range is a thrill and so is the work I do on TV. But beyond all the diversity - which I love - my favourite time is being in the salon behind the chair and making clients happy. Who are your favourite fashion designers? That’s a hard one to answer as there are so many talented designers. Many of the classic houses, such as Chanel, appeal to my aesthetic of beautiful tailoring and simplicity, but I also love the drama of Dolce and Gabbana which takes inspiration from its native roots; it’s always very sensual. I worked with Victoria Beckham recently and it’s inspiring to see how she has progressed to being a major influence in fashion. What do you love most about working in the hair industry? I love that we have the power to transform not only how a woman looks, but also how she feels about herself. She can visit the salon in one state of mind and leave revived and re-energised. It’s a wonderful feeling to see a woman smile when you have finished her hair and she looks in the mirror and admires herself.


Which cities do you find most inspiring? I’m not a native Londoner but have spent most of my career there. It has rewarded my determination to succeed with opportunity and some brilliant individuals whom I have worked with, and for that I’m grateful. I’m a runner and running early morning by the Thames is a marvel and often stirs many incredible emotions. The city’s so steeped in history and now the economy’s recovering well, it’s an exciting place. To relax I want to be a million miles away in the Indian Ocean. My sister lives in Perth and it’s always a delight to visit such a beautiful part of the world. How would you describe your hairdressing style? For me it’s all about front cover-style looks that scream glossy, healthy, beautiful hair. It’s why we have called our latest collection at Urban Retreat “Beautiful”. What’s your creative process when you start work on a collection or show? Sketches, tear sheets, research and drawings can all start the process and it depends on the project. It can take over my entire studio space. Once I have all the research, then it’s a process of elimination. I bring in my Artistic Director, Tracey Gallagher, who has worked with me for more than two decades and together we piece together the jigsaw puzzle. Which hair looks do you love right now? I love the confidence that so many celebrities have now about making changes to their hair through cut and styling but increasingly with colour. Colour during the last few years has become very playful. Celebrities certainly create hair news and hair news is good for our business - it’s how we as an industry

react to it and seize the day. Which look are you totally over? I’m never really over a look as we usually try to push a trend into the next trend and evolve it. For instance, to me the ombre trend has now become a classic colour technique - but there are hundreds of different ways to ombre.

“I think a great hairdresser has a desire to learn more and be more than 'okay' at whatever he or she does.” What has been your most memorable experience on a shoot? It’s the same each time - the delight of working to a brief and seeing the final product come together and everyone on the team loving what’s been achieved. TICK! A job well done, that’s what makes it most memorable. I’m often working for an ad agent, designer or manufacturer…they are my client that day so making sure they are happy is vital to the success and that’s what makes a shoot memorable. What kind of changes would you like to see within the hairdressing industry? In the UK I’m an honorary Ambassador for the Hair Council, which is working with the government to achieve compulsory registration and regulation in hairdressing, of which there is none in the UK. I find it wrong that anyone can practice the craft we all love so much. I’d love for hairdressers to be able to

improve their standard of living and they can do that so easily by being committed to realising the potential every client offers them. It’s all about offering advice and few rarely do enough. What are your 'can’t live without' products? Mousse has been my must-have styling product throughout my career, as it will do whatever I need; volume or smoothness, curls or straightening, shine or matte, hold and definition. And my favourite is from Kérastase. What do you think it takes to be a great hairdresser? Warmth, compassion, interest in people, a genuine want to serve clients and make them happy, giving them advice and ideas. I think a great hairdresser has a desire to learn more and be more than 'okay' at whatever he or she does. I learnt early in my apprenticeship that the word 'okay' as a standard is not okay. It means the client is not coming back. That has stood with me throughout my career and become a benchmark for all I do. What would you say are the 5 key things that have made you successful? • Working with a good team. • Being there and seeing opportunities. • Having fun. If it’s not fun then why do it? • The support and encouragement of family and friends. • Having a goal. What would you say to a young hairdresser looking to follow in your footsteps? I mentioned it before - never accept okay as a standard! 27


PROFILE

fashion

INSIDER

MOOCHI MARKETING & ONLINE MANAGER, KIM DRAPER, TOOK PART IN THE REDKEN EXTREME LENGTHS CHALLENGE. SHE REPORTS BACK ON HER EXPERIENCE AND FILLS US IN ON HER HAIR AND FASHION FAVOURITES

W

hat’s a typical working week like for you and what does your job entail? We’re always pretty busy at moochi – we launch new product every week with eight key collection launches every year, so there's never a dull moment. This involves producing a photo shoot, planning in-store activations and media showings. We're also in the process of redeveloping our website to deliver a much more seamless, omni-channel solution. It's a big focus for 2015. You’ve been using the new Redken Extreme Lengths range for a few months now. Can you tell us what your hair was like before and what have been the results since you started the Extreme Lengths regime? My hair was quite dry and I had a lot of split ends; I’m pretty rough with my hair as I blast it with the hair dryer followed by the curling tongs. I find it hard to grow my hair because I’m always having to chop the ends to make them healthy-looking. The Extreme range has noticeably reduced my split ends and has kept my hair looking really fresh and healthy, which lets me grow it out. Who would you recommend this range to? Anyone who wants to gain some length or has dry, thick hair like mine, to keep it nicely conditioned and healthy. What are some of your other must-have hair products? I’ve always been a big fan of Redken Smooth Lock Butter Silk Mask, as it makes your hair feel so smooth. I also love Blonde Idol Custom-Tone Violet Conditioner to neutralise brassiness in my blonde ends. It has a dual chamber of conditioner and violet and you choose how much you want of each by using a dial - it’s amazing! Redken Diamond Oil is also an essential. How important is hair to you in terms of your overall look working in the fashion industry? My hair is really important to me and I’m very particular about what I like and don’t like. Because I have such thick, long hair, it’s quite a prevalent part of my whole look – if my hair is not done, I’m not done. What’s your hair beauty routine like? I wash my hair every three to four days. My hair routine takes about an hour so it’s not something I like

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to repeat daily. I shampoo with Redken Extreme and condition with Extreme Length Primer. Once a week, I use Smooth Lock Butter Silk Mask. I add Extreme Length Sealer to my ends and alternate this with Extreme Anti-Snap. I blow-dry my hair with my trusty Parlux (I’ve had her for eight years now and she’s as good as ever). Then I curl it to create a gentle wave through the ends. If I curl straight after washing, it'll last until the next wash. How would you describe your personal style? I would say my style is generally quite relaxed and off-duty. I wear jeans most days. I always like dipping into the latest trends and I treat my clothes the same way I do the latest pop song – I love it on overkill for about two weeks then I get over it and want something new and different. I love layering with jackets and coats and I invest most in designer bags and shoes that I keep forever. What fashion look are you rocking this winter and what are you looking forward to wearing this spring? I’m wearing a lot of grey marle and beige this winter, plus playing with a few new but old silhouettes. We have a high-waisted subtle flare in our winter collection which I’m super excited about. Our new leather biker jacket is also a must-have – it will see a lot of wear. Who are your favourite local and international fashion designers? Locally, I only wear moochi styled with a few key shoes and accessories from the likes of Isabel Marant, Acne and Celine. What has been your best-ever fashion buy? My first pair of Gucci shoes were the most memorable thing I have bought. They were on sale and actually terrible. My friends and I laugh every

time we think about them and that time in our lives. We were discovering and playing with high fashion but really had no idea. What would you never be caught wearing? I’d never say never! Some things I thought I would never wear again I have.


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PROFILE

STYLE FILE

Creative Director of D&M Hair Design, Danny Pato, was a finalist for the Hair Expo New Zealand Hairdresser of the Year Award 2015, while D&M was the only NZ salon to receive a finalist nod for Salon of the Year. We get the low-down on Danny's style, culture and fashion favourites.

TIME OUT BAR: Golden Dawn.

WARDROBE

CLUB: China Club in Hong Kong.

DENIM: Ksubi, Topman.

DRINK: Skinny Bitch! (vodka, fresh lime and soda).

SHOES: Costume National, Kathryn Wilson, Rick Owens.

WEEKEND HANGOUT: By the pool at The Standard, West Hollywood.

SHIRTS: Jil Sander.

RESTAURANT: Morimoto in Waikiki, Hawaii.

SUNGLASSES: Karen Walker, Lafont. SHOPPING HAUNTS: The lanes and alleyways in Melbourne. DESIGNER TO WATCH: Glenn Yungnickel.

CHEAP EATS: Warung Asia in the backstreets of Legian, Bali. BINGE WATCH: Game of Thrones. DEATH-ROW MEAL: Lamb shank, spaghetti bolognese and sticky date pudding.

DAY-TO-DAY STYLE: Polished street with a little bit of prep.

POLISH HAIRDRESSER: Anyone at D&M (I work my way around the team, it’s a great way to catch up). STYLING PRODUCT: Davines More Inside Texturising Dust. SHAMPOO: Davines Essentials DEDE Shampoo. BEAUTY PRODUCT: Water – drinking heaps of it. SIGNATURE SCENT: Commes de Garcon 2 Man and Viktor & Rolf Spicebomb for Men. BEAUTY TREATMENT: Eyebrow threading. DESCRIBE THE D&M BRAND IN 10 WORDS: Sexy, strong, welcoming, warm, vibrant, embracing culture, excellence and education.

CULTURE FAVOURITE APPS: Google Maps, TripAdvisor, Vice and Spotify. MUST-CHECK WEBSITES: ln-cc.com, architectureartdesigns.com. INSTAGRAM STALKS: @madonna, @thefatjewish. MUSIC FAVOURITES: It varies heaps! From hip hop to folk - it depends on my mood. Today I’m listening to Obadiah Parker, Circle Research and Hot Chip. AUTHORS/BOOKS: I’ve been getting into biographies lately. I’m currently reading Keith Richards’ Life. GADGET: iPhone 6, GoPro. TRAVEL DESTINATION: Bali, Paris, Santorini. ACTOR CRUSH: Brad Pitt, back in Fight Club days.

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FOCUS

SCIENCE meets nature DAVINES INTRODUCE THE NEW ESSENTIALS HAIRCARE RANGE

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pending an afternoon at the beautiful Matua Road Farm in West Auckland's Kumeu wine region was a highlight for us in April. Our hosts for the day were the team from Boutique Brands, and before we wandered through pecan groves, vineyards and herb gardens, indulging in exquisite locally-grown produce and sipping wine at various tasting stations, we were introduced to the new Davines Essentials Haircare range. The Essentials range best epitomises the Davines brand and embodies the company's values more than any other. All nine haircare families within the range have been completely updated and produced using energy only from renewable sources, with Zero ImpactÂŽ packaging and reduced use of plastic. Davines has enhanced the quality of each formula, enriching them with high percentages of rapidly biodegradable ingredients of natural origin. Each Essential family has a specific property: nourishment, moisturisation, volumising, shine enhancement, protection, elasticising, control and daily care. We learnt that the new Essentials has been reborn out of a combination of the scientific commitment of Davines' laboratories and protection of the Mediterranean's artisan and cultural heritage, with optimal formulas free from sulphates and parabens, and with just a few, selected active ingredients 32

grown in Italy that contribute to keeping alive heritage vegetable species at risk of extinction. At the launch, we heard firsthand from the Davines team in Italy about the passion and heart installed in their products from source, through research,

“Davines take the utmost care in using sustainably-produced ingredients and support local farmers with traditional growing techniques that are kind to the environment.� development, manufacture and sales. With a strong focus on biodiversity, Davines take the utmost care in using sustainably-produced ingredients and support local farmers with traditional growing techniques that are kind to the environment. Davines is also collaborating with the non-profit Slow Food Foundation for Biodiversity by joining

the Presidia Project. Slow Food is a concept rallying against the fast food movement, with the foundation protecting selected places in order to safeguard the earth's biodiversity by building bridges between ecology, gastronomy, ethics and the pleasures of the table. There are more than 400 Slow Food Presidia worldwide, which technically and financially support more than 10,000 small producers so they can continue to grow plants that are typical of specific locations, preventing the disappearance of a genetic heritage with an inestimable biological value. The goal is to relaunch the economy of these areas and prevent the extinction of local artisan traditions. It was inspiring to watch the series of video interviews with local farmers and growers in Sicily and the Northern Italian towns, talking about the produce they specialise in that contribute to the creation of the Essentials products; from olive and tomato extracts through to red celery and caper blossom. Each family in the Essentials line contains one specific active ingredient from a Slow Food Presidium that features the story, the face, and the name of the person who grew it with care and passion. When I pick up my favourite bottle of Volu Shampoo, I can see that the special ingredient contained within is Caprauna Turnip extract and it's produced by the farm of Mrs Donatella Ferraris in Caprauna, Cuneo - that's pretty special!


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FOCUS

exhibit to open

NZ FASHION WEEK

Image: Servilles

Image: Danny Pato @ D&M

HAIR SALONS TAKE THE SPOTLIGHT ON THE OPENING NIGHT OF OUR MOST IMPORTANT FASHION EVENT OF THE YEAR

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tephen and Andrea Cockle are hair veterans out to revolutionize the world of hairdressing. With extensive experience in the New Zealand hairdressing sector, the couple have worked their way through the ranks at Servilles to become part of the creative team and salon manager respectively. Having arrived home from a seven-year stint in London, the couple noticed something missing in the industry – a platform for hairdressers to come together and celebrate their passion for doing what they do best - hair. How did you get involved in the hair industry? STEPHEN: I started out at Servilles in 1996 training to be a hairdresser, which is where I fell in love with hairdressing… and Andrea, who was working there as a personal assistant at the time. After a while we got restless and decided it was time for a change, so we moved to London. While there, we worked with the legendary Beverly Cobella and Ozzie Rizo on creative projects and an event called Alternative Hair. Now we’re back in New Zealand at Servilles and we want to bring what we’ve seen and learnt in the 34

industry here through Exhibit. What's so significant about the Alternative Hair Show? ANDREA: The Alternative Hair Show is a charity show based in London that was originally created out of a desire to discover new talent – it’s an event where hairstylists can come together to showcase their creative talents and push the boundaries of hair styling. Alternative Hair was a complete eye-opener for me. In my opinion, the fabric of hair is almost exhausted, so to see the different materials and fabric being incorporated with hair into live sculptures was mind-blowing. Why did you want to bring it to New Zealand? STEPHEN: When we came home we found it really disheartening that the industry had become so fragmented. Only the salons with strong brand alignment were given the opportunities to present, while smaller salons carry so much unrecognised talent without the platform to prove themselves. We wanted to provide that to them in an environment where they were showcasing rather than competing and where they can define or redefine their brand and push their own creative boundaries. That’s why we decided to create Exhibit – an event run by

hairdressers, for hairdressers. What can we expect for New Zealand Fashion Week 2015? ANDREA: We’re thrilled to say that Exhibit will show during the first slot at New Zealand Fashion Week on Monday 24th August. You can expect to see the likes of Servilles, Ryder, D&M, Fabrik, French Revolver and many more salons presenting their looks at the show on the catwalk. The salons will have complete creative freedom, so I would expect to see the unexpected! We’re lucky to have support from some incredible product partners like ghd, Goldwell, Flossie, Oribe, R+Co and Davines – we couldn’t do it without them. What are your future plans for Exhibit? STEPHEN: We definitely aim to make Exhibit an annual event, and we would love to see more salons from all across the country involved. Exhibit will open New Zealand Fashion Week on Monday 24th August at 7pm. Tickets are available now via iTicket. For any further information, email exhibitcreativevision@gmail.com or visit www. facebook.com/exhibitcreativehair. #ExhibitNZ #ExhibitNZFW


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PROFILE

TURNING

heads

JOICO GUEST ARTISTS AND AWARD-WINNING STYLISTS, CHINNEY YEAP AND LENARD JOHNSTON, TALK ABOUT THEIR PASSION FOR THE INDUSTRY AND THEIR LOVE OF EDUCATING.

CHINNEY YEAP

WHAT ATTRACTED YOU TO HAIRDRESSING INITIALLY? I was living in London and spent a lot of time in Camden. I just really loved all the different types of hair and fashion that I saw and the very diverse range of people. I decided I wanted to create that one day, so I came home to New Zealand when my Visa ran out (didn't want to get deported!) and started my journey. HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR HAIRDRESSING AESTHETIC? Very organic.

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WHICH HAIR LOOKS AND COLOURS ARE YOU CURRENTLY INSPIRED BY? Right now, I'm really loving rich, golden-tone blondes for winter and playful pastels with my younger clients. WHAT HAVE YOU BEEN WORKING ON WITH JOICO RECENTLY? For the past few months, I have been working with Joico on education seminars around New Zealand, delivering both their in-salon ideas and talking about runway trends. WHAT'S THE BEST PART ABOUT EDUCATING? To give back and to share the knowledge that I have learnt during my years in the hairdressing industry. I have learnt so much from the amazing mentors that I’ve had the privilege of working with. WHAT DO YOU ENJOY MOST ABOUT WORKING WITH JOICO? Joico are such an amazing company to work with and I am loving being part of the Joico family. They are really onto it and have a great management team. WHAT ARE YOUR MUST-HAVE PRODUCTS FROM THE RANGE? The K-Pak range and Heat-Set Blowout Perfecting Crème are my favourites. WHAT’S INSPIRING YOU OUTSIDE OF THE INDUSTRY RIGHT NOW? Music videos. I love how much effort goes into music videos these days. I like looking at the hair, makeup and styling and how they pull it all together. WHAT DO YOU SEE AS BEING THE KEY TRENDS COMING UP FOR SPRING/SUMMER? I think ecaille, moving from pixilation to tortoiseshell colouring, by way of toffee mochas and golden tones with lots of richness. Tousled waves also.


LENARD JOHNSTON

WHAT ARE YOU LOVING MOST ABOUT THE HAIRDRESSING INDUSTRY IN NEW ZEALAND RIGHT NOW? I love seeing new faces on the scene. The young emerging talent that is coming through is so great for our industry. Also, the standard of work in competitions; everyone has really stepped up their game which makes our industry look good, especially from an international level, and I hope it only gets better. WHAT HAVE BEEN THE HIGHLIGHTS OF YOUR YEAR SO FAR? Being a Guest Artist for Joico has been a great gift… travelling throughout New Zealand educating has been fantastic and a great way to give back to the industry I love so much. Also, I got to work with one of my favourite celebrity photographers, Tom Kerr, on an editorial shoot which was epic! WHICH HAIR LOOKS AND COLOURS ARE YOU MOST INSPIRED BY CURRENTLY? I'm really loving raw texture at the moment - undone hair that looks windswept. Think beachy and lots of natural movement without the look of product. On-the-go hair that looks effortless but sophisticated. Colour-wise for me it's all about low maintenance; nice rich base tones with sombre highlights placed to emphasis the cut create texture and dimension, giving a more natural-looking colour. TELL US ABOUT THE EDUCATION YOU HAVE BEEN WORKING ON WITH JOICO RECENTLY?

Joico Turn Heads is primarily showcasing four new cuts and colour techniques that complement these cuts. These are salon-commercial and can be applied to each and every client by up-skilling your sectioning patterns to create new and innovative ways to style hair. And who doesn’t want to learn that? Also, we have a styling section where we show everyday techniques that can be used to create hair-up work through to editorial. WHAT’S BEEN THE MOST ENJOYABLE ASPECT OF WORKING WITH JOICO? Everything! The freedom to educate and create without limits and having a great team of professional people who support you - from educators to technicians - makes my job so much easier. WHAT ARE YOUR MUST-HAVE PRODUCTS FROM THE RANGE? I go nowhere without my Heat Set Blowout Perfecting Crème. Heard the term "turn straw into silk?" Enough said! Also, Flip Turn Volumizing Spray which locks in volume and shine and adds amazing texture. WHO DO YOU LOOK UP TO IN THE HAIRDRESSING WORLD? I'm motivated and empowered by the innovative minds of Eugene Souleiman, Alan White, Stefan Knight, Orlando Pita and Luigi Murenu. WHAT’S ON YOUR ‘TO-DO’ LIST FOR THE REMAINDER OF THE YEAR? Heaps! In between clients, I have a lot of editorial work, which will keep me busy till the end of the year. There's New Zealand Fashion Week in August and New York Fashion Week in September. Also, competition prep work, Joico training and after all that, a well deserved break!

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PROFILE

CREATIVE

visionary

DAVINES ARTISTIC DIRECTOR AND REVERED HAIRDRESSING ICON, ANGELO SEMINARA, TALKS ABOUT HOW NATURE INSPIRES HIS WORK AND WHAT'S STILL ON HIS TO-DO LIST

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hat's been keeping you busy for the first half of 2015? My work agenda! My diary is jam-packed right now – I am so, so busy. I've been travelling for international hair shows with Davines, including a trip to Australia where I was honoured with the 2015 Icon Award at the Australian Hair Fashion Awards; shooting for ad campaigns and editorial features; designing a Davines collection and working on product development; fashion shows, hair shows, press interviews...my commitments are many and never-ending. The Davines Essentials range has just relaunched in New Zealand. What input did you have into its creation and what do you think is so unique about it? I’m constantly involved in Davines projects – it’s part of my role as Artistic Director. When Davines came up with a partnership with the Slow Food Foundation and the Presidia projects, I thought it was a great collaboration that really gives strength to and embodies Davines’s concept of sustainable beauty. What are you personal must-have products from the range? That's way too difficult to answer because I’m in love with all of Davines’s Essential Haircare, where the products in each range have specific benefits – nourishment, moisturization, volumizing, shine enhancement, protection, elasticizing, control, daily care – so it depends what type of hair I’m working on. Each of the products totally responds to what the hair needs, preserving its structure and guaranteeing beautiful hair every time. What do you see as being the biggest consumer hair trends for 2015? Braiding and plaiting is major. The look involves braiding close to the scalp but leads to looser braids, a sort of Botticelli Venus meets bohemian grunge and punk. Who inspires you as an artist and who have been your mentors in the industry? Leonardo da Vinci inspires me as an artist. His art is sublime and he wasn’t just an artist, he was many, many things; a scientist, a sculptor, mathematician – pure genius. Industry-wise, my mentor is undoubtedly Trevor Sorbie and I also have huge respect for the creativity of Vidal Sassoon and Leonard Lewis. Who or what inspires you outside of the industry? Mother Nature. Her achievements are as awe-inspiring as they are unfathomable.


ANGELO'S FAVOURITES AUTHOR: Deepak Chopra. FILM: The Motorcycle Diaries. DESIGNER: Yohji Yamamoto. GUILTY PLEASURE: Personal travelling and exploring. MUST-WATCH: Solar energy. TRAVEL DESTINATION: Colombia. SIGNATURE SCENT: Escentric Molecules. FOOD: Italian and Japanese fusion.

What's still on your 'to-do' list as a creative? I feel like I haven’t even started yet. For example, I’d love to do a photo shoot on the moon. Why? Because gravity is something I always have to take into account when designing hair, so to be able to do hair photography in zero-gravity would be awesome, could liberate so much creativity. What is your creative process when working on a collection? I’m like a bird, a magpie. I constantly collect things and build multiple nests which are on different types of trees. After I’ve collected and nested, I start putting eggs in each nest, the eggs are my ideas. When the ideas are ready, I break the eggs to bring the idea to life and assign them to individual projects. Do previous collections influence the next? Each collection is one step on from the last; one needs to continually strive to embrace what is happening in the fashion and beauty world and come up with a vision that is one step ahead all the time. What's your best advice to pass along to the next generation of hairdressers? Have tremendous passion for hair and a burning desire to become the best you can be. Be a sponge, learn as much as you can, be focused, have fun, find your hero. Watch the great masters at work; absorb what they do and how they do it. Then trust in your abilities and practice, practice, practice. Master the rules so you have the confidence to break them and let your creativity fly. Most of all, keep your mind open. Things don’t always finish where they appear to. You must believe there is always more to be discovered. And never compromise or settle for second best. Seek perfection always. What has been the most memorable moment of your career? Winning the title of British Hairdresser of the Year three times and designing the hair for the Frida Kahlo Museum in Mexico. So that makes four memorable moments!

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FOCUS

FASHION WEEK …what’s in it for us?

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RODNEY WAYNE CREATIVE DIRECTOR, RICHARD KAVANAGH, DISCUSSES HOW THE SKILLS LEARNT WORKING FASHION WEEK CAN BENEFIT YOUR WORK IN THE SALON

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oing hair for a fashion show is much like being a drummer in a rock band. Without us, the models, the clothes, the lighting and the runway will still be beautiful and complete. Much like a song can be without drums. But if you add a good rhythm section to a song, it comes alive. It’s richer, fuller, bigger, and it can be so much more than just a good song. It becomes dynamic and full of character. Likewise, with the right hair, a designer can truly encapsulate the character of the woman or man she or he is trying to represent with their collection. Add good hair and all of a sudden you can make it cool, earthed in street culture, or tough and full of strength, maybe polished, relaxed, glamorous, effortless, expensive - all of these characteristics can be portrayed in an instant through the hair. Conversely, if the hair is not right for the clothes, it can distract the audience from what they’re supposed to be looking at and can hinder the


potential outcomes the designer is looking for. Let’s go back to the song analogy. A good song is a good song with or without a rhythm section; a good collection is a good collection with or without hair. Too much crazy drumming and slap bass can ruin a song if it’s not the right fit, no matter how good the drummer licks are. Too much focus on the hair can detract from a runway show if it’s not the right collection for it. On the other hand, weak or poorly executed drums and bass can ruin a song much like poorly executed hair or the wrong choice of style can change the character of a runway show. So let’s think about our role at Fashion Week as the rhythm section: perfectly chiming in with accents and high notes where it’s needed to bring a collection to life and subtly supporting and lifting up a strong collection to add beauty and dynamism to it...we can have a wonderful experience. When working on Fashion Week, we always need to remember it’s not a hair show, it’s a fashion show. It’s all about the clothes, and it’s an opportunity (a very expensive one) for designers to reach new audiences and buyers for their ranges and to grow their business. Therefore, it’s imperative we remember our role as a support to the designers. We can learn a lot of valuable skills that translate to the salon by working Fashion Week... •  HOW TO DELIVER ON BRIEF on time with no hold-ups. The show has to go on when the show is scheduled to go on. Ready or not! How good would it be to find ways to get your appointment schedule back on track and on time and never keep clients waiting more than a couple of minutes? •  UNDERSTANDING CHARACTER AND PERSONALITY and how easily hair can change it. This is a vital piece of understanding for any successful salon stylist. Being able to quickly identify a person’s character or personal style allows you to create new looks to suit them and their lifestyle because you understand them, their individual personal style and how they see themselves. Nail this and you will quickly become a sought-after stylist with the love and trust of your clients. •  CONSISTENTLY REPLICATING A LOOK is a great skill to master. How many of you struggle with a client that loved her last haircut and wants it exactly the same, when it's been six or eight weeks and you’ve done about 800 haircuts since that perfect one she loved! Working Fashion Week can help you find your moves, your style, your inner-groove. • BEST OF ALL working Fashion Week gives you an insight into emerging trends and techniques and will put you ahead of the game for your clients. It gives you something exciting and interesting to talk to them about and makes them feel like they are connected to the elite fashion leader of their community. With Australian Fashion Week celebrating twenty years this year and NZ Fashion Week hitting the fifteen year milestone, I’m excited to see the strength of New Zealand fashion and the growth of our presence on the international stage. Same goes for the hair. Just like a great rhythm section in a song, if the front row audience doesn’t notice the hair, then you’ve probably done a great job…. 41


FILM

PROFILE

Vidal Sassoon: How One Man Changed The World With A Pair Of Scissors.

DESIGNER

John Galliano for inspiration.

HAIR PRODUCT

I like to mix Sebastian Professional Thickefy Foam and Potion 9 for a long-lasting, full hairstyle.

MY FAVOURITE

things

NEWLY APPOINTED CREATIVE DIRECTOR FOR SEBASTIAN PROFESSIONAL AUSTRALIA/NZ AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF FRENCH REVOLVER STUDIO, BRAD LEPPER, TALKS FOOD, CULTURE AND FASHION.

TRAVEL DESTINATION India.

ACTOR

I love the style and charisma of Johnny Depp and Robert Downey Jr.

INSPIRATIONAL HAIRDRESSERS

It's too hard to choose just one but a few of my favourites include Robert Lobetta, Shay Dempsey, Michael Polsinelli, Frank Apostolopoulos, Lisa Vitale and Benni Tognini.

INDULGENCE

When out of town, ordering room service and watching a doco.

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WEBSITE

ukhairdressers.com

MUSIC

I love the new Kendrick Lamar album.

RESTAURANT

Satya South India restaurant in Auckland.


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PROFILE

A WINNING

formula

WITH THREE WINS AT THE KITOMBA NZARH BUSINESS AWARDS 2014, MORPH HAIR OWNER, HAMILTON'S DAVE ROGERS, SHARES HIS STORY OF SUCCESS

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ow was Morph Hair born? It all started with the name Morph. I had this name floating around in my head for a year, coupled with a desire to own a business from very early on. The business and team that have evolved from there have embodied our name and brand ever since. This has given us the ability to cope with changing work practices, industry development, client dynamics and consumer expectations. Getting the salon was a bit random but I've always been someone to say yes to opportunities. I was about four and a half years into this amazing industry, when my flatmate at the time noticed a 'salon for sale' ad. With a salon name and a phone call to my then-to-be business partner, Nikki Otto, we headed down, had a look and said, “Yeah let’s do it." Everything has grown from there. What inspired you in terms of your salon environment? I'm someone who enjoys a bit of a laugh and likes to have fun. I also have a competitive nature, so the environment we have reflects these traits. We wanted to replicate the 'feel good' factor of what we do across all areas of our business, which would create something different from other salon environments. A happy, energized team was key in creating an exceptional customer experience different to our competitors. What’s your business philosophy? I believe in keeping things fun, fresh and forwardmoving, challenging all our team (including myself) with innovation and goals, whilst remaining dedicated and focused on our core business. Clients are at the fore of everything we do, with positive client outcomes being the driver behind all new initiatives. I also believe if you need help, ask for it, or seek out the experts. Our success is not just 44

from the people in direct contact with our business but also the amazing industry experts that we have been fortunate enough to work with over the years. To these people (you know who you are) thank you for your input and dedication to our industry. How do you keep your staff motivated and inspired? I think you have to keep things fresh. Entering awards, competitions and including everyone in the business journey, celebrating successes and striving to be better are core parts of our culture that everyone is on board with. The key to having a motivated and inspired team is to employ motivated and inspiring people that buy into a salon direction and philosophy, then mapping out a personal journey, checking in with them regularly and doing everything you can to support that journey. What part has technology played in supporting your business? Technology works hand-in-hand with our business vision and direction and supports not only our operation, but also strengthens our brand of change and innovation. It’s easy to get caught in the grind of doing the same thing over and over. After periods of “the grind” throughout our eleven-year history, it has been clear that to create a unique experience for our


clients, changes (whether subtle or bold) need to be embraced and contribute massively to the excitement of a visit to our salon. We have partnered with brands such as Redken, ghd and Kitomba who invest in new development and innovation that strengthens our direction of evolution. What initially drove you to enter Morph in the Business Awards? We had a good idea through Kitomba Benchmark that our business compared favourably to other salons throughout New Zealand, and after having success at business awards regionally in the past, it was a great opportunity to see how we stacked up against the best in the industry. I believed since our inception that we had something a bit different going on as far as culture, team dynamic and the overall customer experience at Morph, so it was great to have an in-depth look at our business. Underpinning everything is a competitive nature and a team culture that thrives on success. Why was it important for Morph to enter the Business Awards? From previous experience, we found it was a great process to go through to get a complete snapshot of our business; what's working, what isn’t and make changes where needed. Last year there were some things that really opened our eyes to the impact on bottom line and real results that we were unaware of in terms of marketing and sustainability. Our culture is very much about team and I have a responsibility as the business owner to promote our people wherever possible, and these awards are such a great opportunity to do that. How does the process of entering the awards help you as a business owner? It’s great to make the time that you wouldn’t normally to look at every aspect of the business. As a full time stylist, business owner and family

“A happy, energized team was key in creating an exceptional customer experience different to our competitors.”

man, I tend to neglect dedicated time to reflect on what we have accomplished over the past eleven years. I have found the process challenging (which I love) but also gratifying in the fact it confirms we are generally on the right track. Creatively, I find it’s a great process to engage other parts of the brain which positively impacts all the work I do in and out of the salon. Winning at the awards (L’Oréal Professional Grand Salon of the Year, Kitomba Excellence in Marketing and Wella Sustainable Salon of the Year) has absolutely been one of the biggest achievements of my life and the impact it’s had on our team and clients has been incredible. We have all 2014 achievements signed on our salon walls, which has instilled a great amount of pride amongst our team and been a great motivator to continually be our best. I would like to thank Kitomba, NZARH and all the sponsors for this amazing event and opportunity. It has been an amazing experience and we look forward to being part of it again this year. If you’re interested in entering the 2015 Kitomba NZARH Business Awards, visit www.kitomba.com/ business-awards to find out more and register your salon. More than $15,000 in prizes will be awarded, along with a chance to really see how your salon is performing.

DAVE'S FAVOURITES HAIRDRESSING ICONS: Robert Lobetta, Eugene Souleiman and Guido Palau. Incredible artists and visionaries. HAIR PRODUCT: The whole Signature Look range from Redken and my go-to is always Redken Fabricate 03. MOVIE: Pulp Fiction, with a close second going to Forrest Gump. INDULGENCE: Craft beer, especially Good George White Ale. VACATION DESTINATION: New York. FASHION DESIGNER: Alexander McQueen. WEBSITE: Dark Beauty Magazine. APP: Instagram, Spotify, Facebook and Trip Advisor. RESTAURANT: Palate in Hamilton. Passion on a plate! BOOK: The Twits by Roald Dahl (so many good messages). CELEBRITY CRUSH: Claudia Schiffer (showing my age). 45


NZ AWARDS

MICHAEL BEEL

RICHARD KAVANAGH

mane EVENT

HIGHLIGHTS FROM SYDNEY'S HAIR EXPO AUSTRALIA 2015

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A

s the curtain closed on Hair Expo Australia's three-day event in June, hairdressers had the chance to reflect on the highlights of this annual long weekend - along with pouring over seminar notes and new products, or taking a well-deserved rest after a frenetic few days. Education proved to be one of the most applauded aspects of Expo this year, with a line-up of seminars headed by some of the most internationally-renowned hairdressers and salon business leaders. The sessions with Tabatha Coffey and Akin Konizi proved a big hit (especially judging by the number of Instagram photos we saw, with hairdressers proudly cuddling up to the fierce Tabatha!), along with Errol Douglas's Master Class Cutting Workshop and his seminar on Building and Delivering your Brand. Another education highlight was The Famous Five session, featuring top Australian hairdressers and business owners Renya Xydis, Joey Scandizzo, Frank Apostolopoulos, Dmitri Papas and Damien Rinaldo, which was standing-room only. It was also fantastic seeing Kiwi's Mana Dave and Sara Allsop take to the Look and Learn floor, with their aptly-titled show 'Three Times A Charm' (both Sara and Mana have won New Zealand Hairdresser of the Year three times, hence the name). The duo discussed how they develop concepts for shows and photographic work, and gave us a glimpse into the world of their creative minds. Joining them on stage were other top New Zealand creatives, including Bronwyn Illingworth, Chinney Yeap and Michael Beel. Three evening shows were also held; our favourite being the GenNext Gala on Sunday, which showcases the talents of the next generation of hair superstars. Our favourite, of course, because New Zealand's INDUSTRY Creative Team were part of the line-up, with their beautifully

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executed conceptual show 'Parfum', inspired by old-school movies and music. The INDUSTRY team were supported on the night by both ghd and Joico. No Expo is complete however, without the much-anticipated Monday night awards evening: the Schwarzkopf Professional Hair Expo Awards 2015. With a 900-strong audience, and celebrating a milestone 30 years, the awards continue to shine the spotlight on some of the best creative and business talent from both Australia and New Zealand. We were hugely excited for Buoy Hairdressing's Michael Beel, who, after being a finalist for the past five years, was finally crowned with the prestigious title of New Zealand Hairdresser of the Year - a dream and a goal of Michael's for many years. His winning collection drew its influence from the Orient in the 1930s, featuring sleek, gorgeously sculpted hair with lots of shine. "It’s been a professional goal of mine for over ten years to win this title," says Michael. "I’ve been lucky enough to be a finalist 5 times and to have won is amazing. It's incredible to be amongst the other industry leaders who have won this Oscar of hairdressing. I want to thank the other finalists, as each of them deserve it as much as I do." We were also thrilled for Rodney Wayne Creative Director and freelance session stylist, Richard Kavanagh, who got one over the Australians yet again by being named Session Stylist of the Year. Taking out the night’s top Australian award Australian Hairdresser of the Year– was Dmitri Papas of Papas and Pace Salon in Brisbane. Dmitri follows in the footsteps of his Dad and renowned hairdresser Stelios Papas, who has previously won the coveted award. “It's a true honour to be chosen as Australian Hairdresser of the Year – I am still trying to get my head around the news,” says Dmitri. “This is definitely a highlight of my career so far. To be recognised by industry leaders and to join the ranks of previous recipients, such as Benni Tognini, Brad Ngata, Shane 48

Henning and Sharon Blain, is incredible.” Some of the biggest news from Hair Expo this year was the announcement that the event will be held in Melbourne for 2016, in the heart of the thriving Southbank area. The move will mean that the whole event will once again be back under the one roof - the Melbourne Conference & Events Centre. Hair Expo management say that the new location will both reinvigorate and add a new dimension to Hair Expo. Melbourne - here we come! HAIR EXPO AWARD WINNERS 2015 NEW ZEALAND HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR Michael Beel @ Buoy Hairdressing SESSION STYLIST OF THE YEAR Richard Kavanagh AUSTRALIAN HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR Dmitri Papas @ Papas & Pace MEN'S HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR/ EDUCATOR OF THE YEAR/PHOTOGRAPHIC COLLECTION OF THE YEAR Jules Tognini @ Togninis NEW CREATIVE FORCE Hermiz Daniel @ Joey Scandizzo Salon SALON TEAM OF THE YEAR E Salon EMERGING HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR Lisa Muscat Vitale @ E Salon COLOUR TECHNICIAN OF THE YEAR Olivia Zynevych @ Mieka Hairdressing APPRENTICE OF THE YEAR Jessie McAllister @ Mieka Hairdressing SALON DESIGN OF THE YEAR Roji Salon PEOPLE'S CHOICE Steve Corthine @ Stevie English Hair


NZ AWARDS

NZ HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR WINNER

MICHAEL BEEL BUOY HAIRDRESSING

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SESSION STYLIST OF THE YEAR WINNER

RICHARD KAVANAGH

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FINALIST NZ HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR

SARA ALLSOP - DHARMA

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FINALIST NZ HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR

DANNY PATO - D&M HAIR DESIGN

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FINALIST NZ HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR

JOCK ROBSON - DHARMA

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FINALIST SALON TEAM OF THE YEAR

D&M HAIR DESIGN

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FINALIST NEW CREATIVE FORCE

NICOLE GORDON - VADA

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FINALIST NEW CREATIVE FORCE

KALEB PRITCHARD - DHARMA

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FINALIST MEN'S HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR

TONY WILSON - RAVEN HAIRCUTTERS

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FINALIST EMERGING STYLIST OF THE YEAR

WEI JIANG - BUOY HAIRDRESSING

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TREND WATCH

looks

WE LOVE... IT'S DOESN'T GET MUCH BETTER THAN THE LOOKS CREATED BY OUR TALENTED KIWI HAIR EXPO FINALISTS AND WINNERS. BUT OUR AUSSIE COUNTERPARTS ALSO PRODUCED SOME BEAUTIFUL WORK. HERE'S AN INSPIRED SELECTION OF OUR FAVOURITE LOOKS FROM ACROSS THE DITCH

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LEFT TO RIGHT FROM TOP Stevie English Hair, Joey Scandizzo, Carole Haddad, Dmitri Papas, Chung Yang Su, Frank Apostolopoulos, Adrian Rotolo, Olivia Zynevych, Emiliano Vitale, Vincent Nobile, Jules Tognini. OPPOSITE PAGE: LEFT TO RIGHT FROM TOP Joey Scandizzo, Mary Alamine, Alexandra Kontos, Hermiz Daniel, Vincent Nobile, Kristie Kesic, Claudia Cataldo, Sarah Laidlaw.

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LEFT TO RIGHT FROM TOP Wild Life Hair, Jules Tognini, Jason Vieira, Melissa Masci, Vincent Nobile, Uros Mikic, Dmitri Papas, Uros Mikic, Dee Parker Attwood, Chung Yang Su, Amanda Ackerman.

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LEFT TO RIGHT FROM TOP Frank Apostolopoulos, Dmitri Papas, Uros Mikic, Michael Piastrino, Jules Tognini, Hermiz Daniel, Michael Johnson, Uros Mikic, Vincent Nobile, Stevie Corthine, Ali Holmes.

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NEW PRODUCTS

1 2 3 3 OF THE BEST… A maximum hold clay with a matte finish, ELEVEN Australia's Extra Hold Styling Clay for men is perfect for creating texture and movement. Simply apply to damp or dry hair and get moulding. Introducing Redken Short Sculpt 19, one of the limited-edition Fashion Collection styling products created by session guru, Guido Palau. This highhold texturizing gel gives hair a touchable feel with a sleek or textured finish. Guys looking for hold, style and a natural finish will love TIGI Bedhead For Men Matte Separation Wax. This workable wax contains beeswax, cera carnuba and a polymer blend to provide textured separation with humidity resistance.

Tangle-Free KEVIN.MURPHY UN.TANGLED is a leave-in-conditioner and detangler formulated with nourishing Australian fruit extracts for ultimate conditioning and hydration. Helping strengthen and restore hair, with added heat protection, this bottle of goodness protects hair's integrity, adding natural shine and lustre.

PRODUCT

watch

Shake It Up This Is A Texturizing Dust from Davines is ideal for creating instant volume. With a traceless, matte finish and great grip capability for updo's, this hair texture expander is the perfect product for creating effortless looks.

ColorpHlex™ uses a naturally-derived vegetable protein molecule that penetrates hair, reinforcing bonds during the colouring process

Intensive Care Protect hair during the colour process with colorpHlex™ from Dateline. Improving the strength and quality of hair from the inside out, colorpHlex uses a naturally-derived vegetable protein molecule that penetrates hair, reinforcing bonds during the colouring process. A small amount of patented colorpHlex added to colour or bleach makes hair up to 4 times stronger.

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Deep Therapy Professional By Fama's Rebuild 2.0 Beauty Box reconstructs and repairs dry, coarse and dull hair. Designed to complement the in-salon Rebuild 2.0 professional rebuilding treatment, Structure Shampoo and Mask extend the life of in-salon treatments by at least 4 weeks. Hair is left shiny, nourished and renewed with improved manageability.


VOLARE FERRARI DRYER - RED

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NEW PRODUCTS

1 2 3 3 OF THE BEST… Banish frizz and flyaways for smooth results with Fudge Light Hed-ed Hair Oil. This lightweight spray with shine-boosting formula contains Abyssinian and Argan oil to provide essential nutrients and treat split ends for softer, silkier hair. Light as a feather, Joico K-PAK Color Therapy Dry Oil Spray delivers a 63% shine increase and over 75% breakage reduction. Nourishing oils and advanced technology ensure humidity-resistant smoothness and a beautifully polished finish. L’Oréal Professionnel Mythic Oil Serum De Force increases hair resistance, with 93% less breakage during combing, whilst multiplying shine. This evening primrose oil-enriched serum both stimulates and protects the scalp.

Shape Shifter

PRODUCT

watch Frizz Fighter

Redken Frizz Dismiss offers the first-ever Frizz Protection Factor (FPF) with 4 levels of smoothing and humidity protection for all hair types. The range is sulphate and sodium chloride-free and includes shampoo, conditioner, intensive rinse-out treatment masque and a lightweight smoothing lotion spray. Our favourites are the Instant Deflate Smoothing Oil Serum and Rebel Tame Smoothing Control Cream.

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Looking for mouldable hold with extreme power? Look no further than Fudge Structure Wax. This shaping wax allows you to create texture and definition with flexible hold, along with muted shine and a polished finish.

This shaping wax allows you to create texture and definition with flexible hold, along with muted shine and a polished finish

Stylish Snips If you're looking for scissors or thinners with an edge, check out the new Iceman line-up from Dateline, which features a Medieval, Bollywood, Diablo Antique, Samurai and Shape Shifter range. All Iceman products are made with care and are of the highest quality and these new tools are available in both gold and silver.

Facial For Hair KEVIN.MURPHY's TREAT.ME in-salon range contains skincareinspired ingredients that deliver deep conditioning, shine and nourishment with lasting results. The full-strength customised treatment serums utilise the best of nature and skincare technology: choose from Repair, Nourishment, Anti-Ageing, Volume, Colour Protection and Density.


NEW PRODUCTS

1 2 3 3 OF THE BEST‌ Ideal for coloured hair, Davines Minu Hair Mask deeply nourishes hair at risk of damage, leaving it soft and silky. Improving the duration of cosmetic colour, this orange blossom-scented treatment is both light and nurturing. Delivering intense hydration and controlling breakage and split ends, Keratin Complex Kerawhip is a cream conditioner containing coconut and safflower seed oils for restoring resilience, shine and softening coarse, damaged hair. Coloured hair will love Pureology Colour Fanatic Deep Nourishing Masque. This multi-tasking treatment delivers 21 essential benefits, focusing on three key principles – to prime, protect and perfect, leaving hair soft and strengthened.

Slick Style

PRODUCT

watch Don't Be Foiled

Pop Up Foils from Glide Hair Tools are as simple as using a box of tissues. Each sheet comes out ready to go and is a great time-saver. The foil is embossed to minimise slip and lock in colour, with each sheet coming in 12.5cm wide x 28cm long. Plus, the 520-sheet Pop Up Foil has just been released.

The range of fashion shades includes magenta, emerald, tangerine and coral 68

After a ducktail, pompadour, quiff, or slicked-back style? Use Instant Rockstar Rockabilly Smooth Rock to create classic looks or to gain control of any hairstyle. This strong-hold pomade also offers incredible shine and smoothing properties.

Mellow The Yellow Staying true to blonde hues is made easy with Joico Color Balance Purple Shampoo and Conditioner. Tone-correcting purple pigments and colour-protecting Multi-Spectrum Defense Complex instantly neutralize unwanted brassy and yellow tones. A special peptide complex delivers root-to-tip repair and protection for healthier, shinier blondes.

Pastel Perfection Schwarzkopf Professional Igora Royal Pearlescence simplifies pastel hair colouring with easy-to-use, versatile permanent shades and toners. Upgrade blondes, embellish light browns or blend an array of these interchangeable colours for a kaleidoscopic effect. The range of fashion shades includes magenta, emerald, tangerine and coral, with toners in lavender, mint, amber and candy.


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FOCUS

the ultimate TROPHY

THE GRAND SPECTACLE OF THE UK L'ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY 2015 PRECEDES NEW ZEALAND'S OWN EVENT - TIME TO GET INSPIRED NOW

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he 60th UK L'Oréal Colour Trophy Grand Final was held recently in London, with show-stopping performances by some of the best in the business. As one of the most high-profile events on the UK hairdressing calendar and celebrating a milestone birthday, the task of entertaining and delighting the 1800-strong audience fell to hair luminaries such as the Trevor Sorbie Art Team, Adam Reed, the Charlie Miller Artistic Team, and a special finale by L'Oréal Professionnel members of the 20:20 Colour Collective Team. Opening the show was Adam Reed with Sixty; a celebration of music, fashion and street culture. Sound-tracked by icons including Kate Bush and Neneh Cherry, the show saw models sashay with towering heart-shaped teased up-do's, dream catcher-inspired hair jewellery and plenty of braiding. Further inspiration came from Jason and India Miller at Charlie Miller, who presented intergalactic warrior princesses in silver and purple shades, towering mohawks and plenty of avant-garde texture. One of the most talked-about segments came from Trevor Sorbie and his Art Team, who presented Tomorrow’s World; a spectacular insight into the creative mind of one of Britain’s best-loved hairdressers. Starting with footage of Trevor’s brainstorming process – including a neon-lit walk through Soho and a run-in with a cyclist in reflective gear – the video then gave way to a presentation of models, bringing to life those initial concepts. Glow-in-the dark hair, holographic wigs and woven hair that was transformed on

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colour credibility

5 MINUTES WITH L'ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY YOUNG COLOURIST WINNER 2014, VALERIA LENSKAIA

stage – were all memorable moments on an already inspirational evening. The 20:20 Colour Collective Team brought together 14 of the UK's most prolific hair colourists, with a brief simply entitled "BLONDE". The artists went to work on creating an inspired performance, utilising L'Oréal Professionnel's extensive new blonde palette, that ensured blondes would never be seen in the same light again. The event was held at Battersea Evolution, a unique venue set in the beautiful surrounds of Battersea Park. While the audience were wowed by the four breathtaking live shows, which took place on a rotating catwalk, the mostanticipated aspect of the night was the announcement of the winners. With regional winners announced in every category (too many to list), the big award winners included The Colour Room for Men's Image and Abacus Hair, who took out the ultimate accolade of the L’Oréal Colour Trophy Award 2015. L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY NZ 2015/2016 The 60th UK L’Oréal Colour Trophy may have been and gone but L'Oréal Professionnel in New Zealand is gearing up for the 2015-16 L’Oréal Colour Trophy and NZ Hairdresser of the Year Award. Regarded as the competition to win in New Zealand, and with a brief to create 'Hair Inspired by Fashion', entrants for the upcoming competition will have the opportunity to enter a number of live competition and photographic awards. Full details of the 15/16 competition are due out in August and the deadline for entries will be the end of October, before the announcement of finalists in November. The live competition and spectacular Grand Final will take place in February 2016 in Auckland.

How did winning the L'Oréal Colour Trophy Young Colourist Award impact your career? As a young colourist, I was poised to qualify and work on the floor and develop my own clientele in a very competitive market. Winning L'Oréal Professionnel Young Colourist enabled me to get an edge on my competition, both here at Bettjemans, and also in the market in general. Having my accolades painted on the front window gave me the kudos that gave the receptionists the confidence to recommend me. Also, clients felt I had a certain winning flair. Why do you think it is important to enter? If you don’t enter, all of the above wouldn’t be available to you. However, entering and competing was just the challenge I needed at the time to lift my skill level to where I needed. Do you have any advice for young colourists like yourself who are considering entering? Firstly, choose the right model and preferably one you click with. Ensure your ideas resonate with you and not just your trainers. It would be my advice to choose a short-haired model, as most winning models seem to have short and funky looks. Check out past winners to get a feel for what the L’Oréal aesthetic is like - it is very different to Wella. For instance, L'Oréal Professionnel tend to like stunning front cover looks - where trends meets glamour - so nothing too extreme or hard-edged. When prepping and coming up with ideas, write everything down so you can remember what colours and techniques you have used. Above all, enjoy the experience. What’s the best thing that has happened to you since winning? The night I won, my Mum and my Dad (Sasha), who is an extraordinary hairdresser, were in the audience. They were so proud and I will never forget how proud I made them feel. The best thing about winning has been the acknowledgement I have received from my existing client base. The speed of growing that client base has been remarkable on the back of such a prestigious win.

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INTERNATIONAL

Shine

Artistic Director: Angelo Seminara for Davines International Creative Colour Ambassador: Edoardo Paludo Photography: Andrew O’Toole Makeup: Laura Dominique Stylist: Ozzy Shah Products: Davines 72


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INSPIRATION Skilfully suspended between the contemporaneity of fashion and evocations from the natural world, Davines' aesthetic research has moved into new style territory, bringing to life the Shine Collection. Created by Davines Artistic Director Angelo Seminara, along with Edoardo Paludo, International Colour Creative Ambassador, the collection's stylistic inspiration comes from metal, evolving the colouring techniques to become iridescent effects supported by a metallic veil. Just as the reflections of light falling on silvery surfaces vary according to the angle of view, so Shine varies between loose lines and unpredictable flashes. A style idea that is perfect for a woman who knows how to walk the tightrope of the fringes of fashion, who asserts her identity without giving in to the diktats of the season, but introduces elements of surprise. Shine focuses on classic shapes and the linearity of straight but not tidy hair, left free to dance in movements accentuated by irregular perimeters and a light, natural finishing.

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INTERNATIONAL

One Girl, Eleven Looks Hair: Joey Scandizzo for ELEVEN Australia Photography: Andrew O’Toole Makeup: Kylie O’Toole Stylist: Elaine Marshall

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INSPIRATION ELEVEN Australia's 'One Girl, Eleven Looks' is a showcase of eleven unique hairstyles on one model. Co-Creative Director, Joey Scandizzo, found his clients think they can only change their style with a haircut. "Few consider the endless possibilities mixing up styling products can have on transforming their look," says Joey. Using only ELEVEN products, the team created everything from voluminous waves, through to sleek and short, textured and choppy and silky smooth. The campaign aims to show the change hair can make, giving women confidence to get the look they've always wanted. With the right products, the options are endless."This shows the difference a hairstyle can make, not only to a look, but an attitude too," says Joey.

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INTERNATIONAL

s e d a Sh y e r of G

Hair: Ken Picton Artistic Team, Wales Photography: Andrew O'Toole Makeup: Naoko Scintu Styling: Desiree Lederer

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INSPIRATION This beautiful, highly-textured collection from the talented Ken Picton Artistic Team is one of our favourites this season, featuring dynamic cuts, feminine shapes and plenty of movement. The team have once again favoured the medium of black and white, in keeping with the enigmatic, slightly mysterious slant of the looks. Multiple-award-winning hairdresser Ken Picton heads up the Artistic Team, along with his own destination salon in Wales, and prides himself on running an organisation that's the perfect balance of business and creative success. The 40-strong team are also the most-awarded hairdressing group in Wales.

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PROMOTION

Style Cuts™ cut

$29

“I love the systems and the professionalism of Just Cuts, and to me, it is Just Cuts all the way.” Aroha from Queensgate, Wellington STYLIST FOR 4 YEARS

AN AMAZING OPPORTUNITY TO WORK WITH A SKILLED, PROFESSIONAL TEAM, PASSIONATE ABOUT CUTTING Taking pride in providing excellent customer service, Just Cuts is the biggest hairdressing franchise in the Southern Hemisphere, with 24 salons across New Zealand alone.

Just Cuts New Zealand is doing approximately 10,000 style cuts per week. This fantastic growth is due, in part, to the Just Cuts training system which makes it easy for owners and stylists to follow.

Their approach to hairdressing is unique and simple, as they choose to specialise in cutting alone – for men, women and children. Chemical or colouring work is not available for clients at Just Cuts but a focus solely on cutting means that clients can expect a high quality of service. Every stylist at Just Cuts is an experienced/qualified professional, with up-to-the-minute training in the latest cutting techniques and trends. Head massages, shampoo treatments and immaculate blow-dry’s are all part of the service.

Just Cuts in New Zealand are looking for experienced stylists to join their team; stylists who enjoy being treated as equals, are given time for a proper lunch break and can finish on time, and who can earn the excellent wages and bonuses they deserve. Being a member of the Just Cuts team also offers the opportunity to develop your cutting skills in a supportive team environment, along with the possibility of owning your own Just Cuts salon in future.

Scott Wallace, the New Zealand Master Franchisor, opened the first Just Cuts at St Lukes Shopping Centre in 1997. Since then Scott has grown the brand to 24 Just Cuts.

“After being a stylist at Just Cuts, Hamilton for 5 years, I jumped at the opportunity to become my own boss by taking on a Just Cuts in Tauranga. Even though I had no business experience, I trusted the Just Cuts business model and the support provided.” Jenni from Bethlehem, Tauranga JUST CUTS OWNER FOR 7 YEARS

“I enjoy the flexibility of hours and not having the the pressure of maintaining a clientele. Also, working with a close-knit friendly team and not having to do chemical work is a plus.” Rachel from West City, Auckland TEAM LEADER FOR 10 YEARS

If you are looking for a fresh change in your career, call into your local Just Cuts for a chat and leave your CV or email Scott on scott@justcuts.co.nz Visit our website at justcuts.co.nz

NEW SALON OPENING IN OCTOBER - NORTH WEST SHOPPING CENTRE, HOBSONVILLE, AUCKLAND

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TREND WATCH

modern

STYLE

SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL'S LATEST ESSENTIAL LOOKS COLLECTION CELEBRATES PASTELS, SHARP CONTOURS AND DREAMY SENSUALITY

PEARLESCENT GIRLS

EYE-CATCHING PEARLESCENT COLOUR COMBINED WITH SLEEK AND TEXTURED FINISHES. The girls of the Pearlescent trend beat to their own drum. Not afraid to take chances, these ladies have a keen eye when it comes to fashion. Inspired by those bloggers who put street style on the map, this collection is all about mixing up styles and using pastel, pearl-like colours to create one-of-a-kind looks. From delicate to daring, this trend represents a captivating and courageous mix of clean shapes and precise cuts to mid-length hair, coupled with variations on every possible pastel pearl hue. Whether it's emerald and magenta or lavender and soft candy, a vast array of colour accents can be created for this trend, thanks to the new IGORA ROYAL Pearlescence range.

S

chwarzkopf Professional's new Essential Looks collection has created three distinct yet flexible trends to fire hairdressers imaginations for the spring/summer 2015 season - the eye-catching colours of Pearlescent Girls; the summer festival influences of Hippi Glam; and the feminine finish of Rok Chik. The international Essential Looks team has been working almost 24/7 over the last few months to bring you the latest trends in the Modern Style Collection. “One of the most exciting aspects of hairdressing is being part of a truly global, fashion-led industry," says Essential Looks Creative Director, Steve Hogan. "We all understand seasonal trends and fashion, but when it comes to putting ‘style’ into words, it becomes harder to define because it is, by its very nature, a personal statement. That’s why, for this latest edition of Essential Looks, we’ve focused on three very different styles of the moment.”

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ROK CHIK

RED AND COPPER SHADES FUSED TOGETHER WITH SHORT, YET FEMININE HAIRCUTS. With a new interpretation of rock style, Rok Chik has reinvented provocative, with short haircuts that look cheeky, yet feminine. This collection is the high-shine version of rock style – for women who want to make a statement. The trend centres around intense shine and striking red and copper tones. The cuts are choppy and pointed, sharply contoured or a mix of the two. Finish off with dazzling shine for an expensive look that combines tension with a touch of class.

HIPPI GLAM

SUBTLE, SUN-KISSED SOFT COLOURS USED WITHIN UNDONE SUMMER WAVES. Think weightless sheers, bright florals, patterns and 70s influences. Channelling Penny Lane from Almost Famous, dreamy and romantic, clad in flares and faux fur, this collection pays homage to the era of peace, love and happiness but with a modern twist. Play with a palette of earth-toned accents for a more refined yet natural look than ever before. Hair is long, undone and sensual, with beachy waves, simple up do's or modern braids.

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BUSINESS direction but they can feel daunting if they aren’t done regularly, or only when something is not going as you had hoped. Here are some simple guidelines for effective team meetings.

1

Fight the fear and commit to staff meetings regularly. Pre-schedule them into your appointment book even if you don’t know what your agenda is yet. Commit, then figure out the agenda next. Start with monthly meetings and work towards making them weekly, even if only for a short period. Simply get started then give the meeting time to evolve. Pick the optimal time of day and week; the earlier in the day and the earlier in the week the better. Staff meetings will lift motivation and productivity, so capitalise on that for the rest of the day and week. Create a simple yet clear etiquette and stick to your rules strongly so that the meetings don’t deteriorate. For example, mobile phones should be on silent and it’s probably not a good idea to allow eating of food. Hair and makeup should be done prior if the meeting is in the morning, and you should finish in time to get the business ready before the first client arrives. Set a time frame and stick to it. This means starting even if others are late and finishing the meeting on time, even if agenda topics need to be forwarded to next week. Take notes. Make a note of any key decisions, who is responsible for any actions, and write down the dates for them to be completed. Choose a chairperson, even if it’s not going to be you. They are in charge of timekeeping and ensuring that the team stay on topic, which keeps people focused and on-track. Now that you’ve committed to undertaking regular meetings and you know what to do, it’s time to work out what to say IN the meeting. The key to effective management is to share the workload. Not only will you receive better engagement from your team by including them in topics to be discussed and listening to what they want to address, but it takes the pressure off you to front up with an agenda item every time. Keep your agenda headings printed in the back room and allow staff the ability to add their thoughts during the week. Here’s how you can set the agenda: • Icebreaker: Something quick and fun to open communication and engagement, allowing people to settle down into the meeting. • Recap last week: A quick check-in regarding progress made and following up actions agreed to be completed or progress reports. • Operations: This is where you discuss the weekly things that crop up, such as product being "out of stock”, delegating operational jobs, people who are on holiday/sick, new staff, or new positions being advertised. Anything that might affect your week’s business or staff should be mentioned here. • Marketing or promotions: Share and reiterate what’s currently on offer for clients, including how to manage this at reception when seeing clients out at payment time. Repetition increases learning, so it’s okay to talk about which discounts to redeem for your promotions a few times over.

2 3 4 5 6

THE POWER OF

communication LARISSA MACLEMAN DISCUSSES HOW TEAM TALK CAN BOOST SALES

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unning a business requires you to use many skills, but the one that matters most is communication with your team. In order for hair and beauty salons to grow and flourish, you must create an effective teamwork culture that also encourages employees to be good salespeople... and to do this you need good communication. Your team must all be on the same ship and your role as leader is to bring them together, all rowing and working in the same direction towards your business goals. Staff meetings offer a foundation of good communication and gentle, guided

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• Clients: Any client reviews - share the love. (Remember to discuss “re-do” feedback one-on-one.) You could also talk about clients of note, existing clients who are important to your business, those that refer lots of friends, or those that invest in multiple services during every visit. You and your team should know these people by face and name. • Team: We all know that rewarding good behaviour increases the likelihood of it being repeated. Two key activities that are worth repeating are great sales and KPI results, as well as harmonious team work. Here are two simple ideas to implement: Share a few great results from the previous week and make sure it's not always about the dollars. Include some KPI’s like rebooking rates, colour percentages, and treatments sold. Include most improved results too. Let the team vote for each other’s teamwork and support. A simple weekly vote for something someone else did for them brings out good feelings and encourages continued supportive behaviour. If it’s a private vote on a small piece of paper, the team are more likely to participate and offer real, thoughtful and heartfelt details (public declarations of love can feel daunting). All it takes is something small and simple as a reward - its the point of recognition, not the reward itself.

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Enjoy the moment!

After the meeting, it is important to keep everyone in the loop by sharing notes. Your chairperson should be taking notes, and you can edit and send them out to your team. If it’s important enough to be written down, it’s a clear signal to your team this event and it’s follow-up actions are important.

“You receive better engagement from your team by including them in topics to be discussed but it takes the pressure off you to front up with an agenda item every time.” MODES OF TEAM COMMUNICATION Some weeks are crazy busy and getting everyone together or connecting with some people just doesn't happen with client schedules. Thankfully, you can utilise technology to increase individual or team communication. There are a few ways to do this, like email or text messaging, but nothing is easier than using Facebook. Facebook allows you to create 'Secret Groups' that you can invite your team to, in which you can hold conversations and communicate happenings to everyone during the week. This is especially useful for sharing meeting notes, or letting everyone know if someone is suddenly away sick. For private communication, you can use Facebook Messenger to communicate with individual staff members. Everyone has a Facebook account, so you won’t need to ask your team to sign up to anything, and it’s much more inviting for collaboration than email is. Additionally, both Facebook Groups and Facebook Messenger will tell you who has seen your message and who hasn’t. There’s no excuse for people who say they haven’t seen your message. While there are many tools available at your disposal for team communication, they won’t be doing you any good unless they’re being used. Service-based businesses like hair and beauty salons are all about people, so to develop a culture where people come first, communication is necessary. As the leader, it’s your job to communicate your business’s values to your staff. You’re on a journey towards your larger business and sales goals, and on a day-to-day basis you need to communicate your vision to your team. This starts with regular meetings, where everyone has the opportunity to be involved in the business goals, sales growth but also a place where they can voice their concerns. That communication needs a channel through effective staff meetings and utilising tools like Facebook to keep in touch. More communication means less drama and more efficiency, less stress and more sales. So get out there and start commun-a-selling!

Making the move to Timely is a moment worth celebrating! Sign up for a trial using promo code BUBBLES, and you could be one of the lucky six to receive a bottle of Moet.

S A L O N S O F T WA R E g e t t i m e l y. c o m

Larissa Macleman, Business Development and Marketing Manager at Timely Salon Software, owned an award-winning hair salon with a team of over 25 employees for 20 years. More recently she has worked in online marketing, salon app and business development for hair and beauty salons. Her role at Timely sees her dealing with business development, marketing and product development that pertains directly to hair and beauty salons. 97


BUSINESS

34%

“On average, of women visiting salons have hair colour, with most services either global colour or blonde highlights.”

COLOUR YOUR WORLD WENDY MAXWELL EMPHASIZES THE IMPORTANCE OF IN-SALON COLOUR SERVICES AND HOW TO GROW THEM INTO A PROFITABLE SALON SERVICE.

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our hair colour is your identity; when you change it, you can become a different person. The right hair colour can give confidence, enhance mood and make you feel good about yourself. In fact, a lot of people feel they're trapped in the wrong hair colour. Hair colour is also used by many people seeking to reverse the natural changes in colour associated with age, rather than to assume a completely different hair colour or look. Whatever the client’s reason for colouring, it is the main driver of your business, creating the most loyal clients and also the most frequent visitors. In saying that, how well do you know your colour business and how do you grow this profitable salon service? The first thing you need to do is to look at how many of your clients are having colour. This will reveal the opportunity that exists within your current client base to build your colour offering. These clients are your ‘recruitment clients’. A lot of the time, your recruitment clients may have had a colour, but do so infrequently - maybe in your salon, maybe a home colour or they might shop around and get their 98

colour at a cheaper salon. To recruit these clients to be your regular colour clients, you have to put yourself in their shoes and ask: why aren’t they having a regular colour? Is it because they think your salon is too expensive? Do they think colour damages their hair? Is it because they don’t want regrowth or are they just scared it will turn out too bright, too blonde or too dark? Do they think that it will take too much time? These are all valid reasons from a client’s point of view. As hairdressers, we know there are many colour options available to enhance hair styles. It may be a scattering of foils through the top layers, or adding some depth to the bottom layers. Both are very simple and cost-effective colour techniques that will enhance a client's appearance and make them feel good. We also know that colours such as L’Oréal Professionnel DiaRichesse can cover up to 70 percent of white hair without strong regrowth - and it takes only 20 minutes. So that answers any concerns on time cost or having regrowth. Clients can have healthier, glossy hair that looks naturally vibrant. Take into account the number of colour clients expressing interest in more natural, organic or ammonia-free colour alternatives. It would be worth your while to investigate your options in this regard

to ensure all your bases are covered for the growing number of clientele for whom this is important. I really like the idea of having a recruitment menu for clients or colour options made available during consultations to show just how easy and timely these colour enhancers can be. We know that a customer has to visit the salon three consecutive times in a six-weekly time frame before becoming a loyal client, resulting in them staying for five or so years. Maybe we should turn that logic into having a colour programme that offers three consecutive colours, with value added to the first three colour services. As a result, they turn into your loyal colour clients. When undertaking a colour analysis of your business, it’s really important you identify the number of clients who have colour and also what type of colour they have. You may find a lot of your colour clients have permanent colour, for example. A good way of building this side of your colour business and holding on to these clients is to personalise all your global colours so they are exclusive to your salon and cannot be performed at home or at another salon offering cheap colour deals. It also gives you a chance to talk about future plans for your client’s colour. The last thing you want happening to your long-standing global colour clients is for them to decide that it’s not really working. On average, 34 percent of women visiting salons have hair colour, with most services either global colour or blonde highlights. This gives you a fantastic opportunity to build your business with a captive audience. We all know colour enhances our appearance and women feel more confident and happy when they look good, so use this to your advantage. I’ve yet to see women looking younger with white hair. They don’t, but they don’t know what other options are available to them; from lighter, more translucent colours or pastel toners to enhance their changing skin tones. It's your role to educate these women on the alternatives and how simple and easy it can be to transform their look. ‘It’ girls and celebrities of all ages are great role models for women who want to enhance and add some magic to their hair to complement their skin tones. This can be achieved with subtle toning of blonde or soft caramel highlights to the darker hues there are so many options available, you just need to ensure your clients are aware of the possibilities.


The wealth of colour options available today is great news for your clients and great news for you as a salon owner to be more profitable, to keep on-trend and be relevant with the services you provide. Clients want experiences, hence the growth of the spa industries. It’s your turn now to give your clients more choice when it comes to colour, time, price and frequency. If you widen and tailor your colour offering, you will see the benefits in profit and your clients will fall in love with their salon visits. After all, who doesn’t want to look and feel better? L'Oréal Professional Products Division Education and Development Manager, Wendy Maxwell, leads the company's Salon 360 Development Programme. Wendy has 28 years experience in the industry. Her role sees her working with salons across Kérastase, L'Oréal Professional, Redken and Matrix brands. She has worked and attended training internationally in Paris and London on business development for L'Oréal.

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WINTER'S HOTTEST HUES Modern metallics and gorgeous highlights are trending this season...

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 AUBURN BROWN: The sweet spot between brown and red, take inspiration from Cara Delevingne and go for subtle, thin chestnut highlights.  DIRTY BLONDE: Make the transformation from brunette to blonde simple by easing into a lighter colour, like model Suki Waterhouse. Keep the roots dark and blend warm caramel and butterscotch highlights through the lengths.  ROSE GOLD: "This season is all about rose-gold locks," says Jessica Chastain's colourist, Faye Goodwin. Achieve it with highlights topped with a demi-permanent gloss that's blended with an even mix of gold and copper hues. "It flatters all skin tones," adds Redken Creative Consultant, Tracey Cunningham. For inspiration, look to Amy Adams and Emma Stone.  WHEAT BLONDE: Platinum is still having its moment, but for dark blondes and light to medium brunettes who don't want to commit to the maintenance it requires, try wheat blonde, as seen on Chloe Moritz and Jennifer Lawrence. It's brighter and more buttery than dirty blonde, with hints of light brown colour peeking out at the roots or underneath.  BRONZE: Revive dull browns with an all-over shine glaze with bronze and golden highlights placed on the mid-shaft to ends. It's a perfect way to lighten colour, still look natural but also frame and brighten the face. Jessica Biel and Beyonce both nail this look.  DARK HIGHLIGHTS: All-over dark hair colour can be severe but breaking it up with subtle chocolate highlights brightens and adds gorgeous dimension. The best part? Upkeep is minimal, since the highlights look most natural when they start mid-shaft and frame the face. Lily Aldridge is a perfect example of the trend.

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BUSINESS

dream

WEAVERS WITH BEYONCE'S ‘FLAWLESS’ CREATING A WHOLE NEW MARKETING CULTURE AROUND THE THEME ‘I WOKE UP LIKE THIS’, EXACTLY HOW ARE YOU MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR CLIENTS BEAUTY SLEEP? ANNE O’BRIEN LOOKS AT MAKING THIS SEASON A DREAM SEASON IN MORE WAYS THAN ONE

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ecently I read a beautifully written article about our wonderful country. It was in a travel magazine (my next favourite after beauty and design) and it celebrated the delights of our summer and spoke about New Zealand being a magical place during the winter. The journalist wrote of winter in New Zealand as being the ideal time to enjoy the indoors as well as the outdoors, focusing on bringing mind and body together. As business owners in our industry unfortunately, it can also be the season that is a bit of a nightmare when the rain and sleet start and clients become so entrenched in their mind and body pursuits (also known as watching the box set of Game of Thrones on the couch) they don’t actually leave the house I don’t want to detract from the beautifully written article as New Zealand is definitely a magical country in winter (Queenstown is almost unbelievable) but encouraging clients into your spa or salon when it’s pouring has always been a challenge. Well, let’s rise to the challenge this season and look at solving two problems with one solution. Nationally there are a couple of things that clients regularly list as their biggest concerns. One, they do not want to age prematurely and two, they don’t have enough time to really dedicate themselves to do anything about it. In some cases, quick-fix therapy has become therapy du jour and a lot of the time this therapy does nothing to alleviate the client's stress but is merely a Band-aid over a bullet hole. How many times have we heard, ‘Haven’t you got one product that I can use on my eyes, face and neck?’ The creative marketing geniuses that we are, we have come up with a possible remedy and we’ve called it the ‘Dream Weaver’. This could be the perfect programme for both your clients needs and the needs of your business. The anti-ageing concern is addressed and it’s all done whilst your client is asleep - you can’t save much more time than that. Possibly the most time-efficient solution ever? Perhaps. Our clients are running households, driving and

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collecting children from sport, worried about their health, managing elderly parents, in a relationship, have stressful work deadlines and are generally making sure everyone else is happy - not necessarily in that order of course. Due to a fast-paced and busy schedule, mindful rest and sleep can be sadly lacking in our clients routines and this will be playing havoc on their skin. Night time is the best time for your skin to begin to repair the day’s damage - air conditioning, pollution, sun damage (yes, even in winter), etc. You

“Nationally there are a couple of things that clients regularly list as their biggest concerns. One, they do not want to age prematurely and two, they don’t have enough time to really dedicate themselves to do anything about it.” may have seen me recently advocating in the press that night creams are my all-time favourite beauty products. We know the body is working hardest on its regenerative process while we sleep - it’s amazing. But first your clients must get to sleep, yes? It is therefore important that you design winter treatments for essential health and wellbeing in mind, with sleep being the centre of this restorative process. Introduce a winter massage that includes a hot water bottle, wheat bag, soothing lavender-based oils and a more 'snuggly’ (technical term) linen for them to be close to at the time of the treatment. The textures and sounds in your treatment room should reflect everything about what you are trying to achieve, so no stimulating music, scents or rough surfaces. Everything should be soft and gentle like a bad Barbra Streisand (old time) or Sam Smith (real time) video.

With this dream time treatment comes the opportunity for a percentage of the treatment cost to be redeemed against a home care product on the night. Now before this becomes a minefield, this is a suggestion only BUT this is one sure way to have your clients coming in to see you during the winter - a special offer on the massage which is redeemable against a night cream, serum, eye cream, hand or foot cream. ‘Dream Weaver’ (in this presentation) with its added value could be the very solution to their premature ageing and time-poor concerns and your dilemma of getting them off the couch. To put it in plain English, if you are charging $125 for a 90 minute hot stone massage, then $25 could be redeemable against product on the night, for instance. Another presentation of the ‘Dream Weaver’ could be that on specific nights (full moon for instance) you open your salon doors an hour or two later, share a warming hot chocolate with your client and sit down together. Spend some time going through exactly what you and your team can offer her/him to sleep better, de-stress and ultimately address their skin concerns with your overnight products. On your full moon events you may introduce a yoga specialist, a nutritionist, a wellness coach and of course, an expert hot chocolate maker. Held at a later time, it may be much better for some of your clients schedules, as this could be the only way they are able to see you during winter. Some clients literally do not have enough hours in the day and to be given an 'out of hours' option is just perfect. These events take time to organise but they may appeal to your business model more so than a GWT (gift with treatment). Internationally, many spas are embracing this ‘full moon magic’ and expanding their opening hours but only on certain dates in the month. They can begin to accommodate clients who would love the spa experience but don’t leave the office until you’re actually closing something to think about as a value-added way to capitalise on natural occasions.


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“Due to a fast-paced and busy schedule, mindful rest and sleep can be sadly lacking in our clients routines and this will be playing havoc on their skin.”

Another ‘Dream Weaver’ option is that if clients are not going to come to you, then you are going to have to make the effort to go to them. I am not advocating mobile therapy (but this could be an option) but perhaps a scheduled phone call that covers the following points (in your own style)… • We haven’t seen you in the spa for a while. Are you okay and how have you been sleeping in the colder weather? • This season we’ve got a special focus on repairing your skin whilst you sleep, so I just wanted to make sure you knew all about it. • You will now be low on your winter night time goodies so what would you like us to send you out this season on free delivery (night cream/serum/ eye cream) so you don’t have to come out in the cold? I’m going to pop in some extra treats for you as well to help you get an even better sleep. • Lastly, we are also thinking of opening extra hours one late night a month. Do you think this is a good idea? This interaction (or similar) will enable you to offer your client a personalised service at a minimal cost 108

to your business. Wrap the recommended products in beautiful paper – a bit more luxurious because it’s winter time – and include notes on the benefit of a good night’s sleep. A magazine, a recipe, a recommendation for a good read, a relaxing tea sachet – include a thoughtful extra that makes them feel as special as they deserve but is also a genuine reflection on the personality of your spa or salon. Clients you haven’t seen because the weather has been bad, the kids have been sick or they have been ill themselves will really appreciate your thoughtfulness and you will feel great as well. You are actually doing something for them that is beyond your usual service and this is always a positive feeling. A simple note saying ‘Sleep Well or ‘Sweet Dreams’ would also be a nice touch. How lovely would it be receiving this in the post? I think that would be magical – more so than the Game of Thrones box set I would imagine – and I might even send myself one! Anne O'Brien has been part of the salon and spa professional community for 16 years and is a self-confessed skin care junkie.

THE BIG SNOOZE…

• We spend over one third of our lives sleeping. • The natural sleep/wake cycle is called a circadian rhythm. • Not enough sleep can affect your weight. • Are you a joy to live with when you lack sleep? Have a Nana nap and put your life back in balance. • Check out sleepfoundation.org for facts on how much sleep we really need (celebrating 25 years of research this year). • Buy some gorgeous new pyjamas – you deserve it.


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beauty never SLEEPS REJUVENATE, NOURISH AND RESTORE SKIN THIS WINTER WITH THESE NIGHT TIME FAVOURITES

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OSMOSIS STEMFACTOR TRANSFORMATION SERUM

ENVIRON IONZYME C-QUENCE EYE GEL

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DERMALOGICA OVERNIGHT REPAIR SERUM

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MEDIK8 RETINOL 10 TR™ADVANCED NIGHT BALM

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SOTHYS HOMME DE-STRESSING EYE ROLL-ON

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JOYCE BLOK REJUVENATING SKIN CREAM

DECLEOR NIGHT ESSENCE SERUM 109


FOCUS

BEAUTY COMMUNICATIONS EXPERT, SHARLEEN SINGH, DISCUSSES HOW BEST TO HELP CLIENTS RESTORE A RADIANT, BRIGHTER SKIN THIS WINTER

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ith our summer sun but a distant memory, it’s all about getting that rosy glow back into our clients’ cheeks for the winter season. As well as bringing cold weather, winter drains away that healthy flush leaving some complexions looking uneven, dull and dry. A pure skin that radiates health, vitality and clarity is what we want to see this winter so let's take a look at the basics of achieving a more unified complexion for your spa and salon guests. Hyperpigmentation is a common issue for many clients at the end of the summer season and is characterized by the darkening of areas of skin caused by melanin overproduction. Overexposure to the sun, hormonal changes (including pregnancy), genetics and various medications are the most common causes. Melasma (also known as Chloasma faciei, or the mask of pregnancy when present in pregnant women) is one of the most well-known hyper pigmentation problems and usually involves brown patches on the forehead, nose and cheeks, which can easily be spotted under a skin scanner. Clients often want a quick fix for brown spotting, but it’s not that simple. Though melasma may disappear after pregnancy, it can stubbornly remain for years afterwards if it has been the result of too much sun. The best treatments for clients in this situation include AHA peels, microdermabrasion and brightening treatment creams and serums. If your salon offers light therapy treatment, now is the perfect time to suggest a course suited specifically to your clients’ needs. You should also ensure all your clients are using broad-spectrum sunscreen every day, even when they are inside. UV rays make their way onto our skin even through windows, so it is vital to ensure skin is always protected. Including a sunscreen with an AHA peel for your client's homecare regime will maximise their skincare results. As therapists and beauty experts, you have a firm grasp on the dangers of a misinformed or overly-ambitious client, so concentrate on communicating your knowledge in a professional yet personable way.

Although a tanned-looking skin is sought after in New Zealand, with our growing multi-cultural community, there also needs to be an understanding of the limitations of brightening from the international perspective. Across the globe, especially in Asian countries, skin bleaching is a common trend. Lighter skin is seen as more desirable, so it would pay to be prepared for questions on this subject. There are far too many cases of skin damage caused by products sourced internationally with the growth of online shopping. Educate your clients about the dangers of purchasing 'lightening' or ‘whitening’ via the internet. There are numerous horror stories via beauty blogs of skin bleaching gone wrong, so ensure you advise your clients and steer them towards safer, professional and more effective options. Your salon or spa should be stocking a home care range focused on brightening to complement your treatment protocols for winter. Once in-salon, encourage clients to incorporate your brightening creams and serums into their take-home treatment plan. Remind them that 70% of the success of your program is the follow-up care at home. There are many other simple things your clients can do at home to keep on top of skin radiance this winter. Don't forget, it’s also what's on the inside that counts too. As well as reputable products and treatments to help brighten skin, there are a multitude of foods that can assist in significantly improving the look of skin during the cooler months. Some small lifestyle changes will be most beneficial so don’t be afraid to include these as part of your recommendations. Here are a few suggestions to pass along... • When life gives you lemons – celebrate! They’re rich in ascorbic acid, a natural antioxidant, and also help stop free radicals from developing. • Tomato, tomato – this lovely fruit produces collagen in the skin which helps give skin a natural-looking glow. • The good fats in avocados can reduce redness in skin and are crucial for

“As therapists and beauty experts, you have a firm grasp on the dangers of a misinformed or overly-ambitious client, so concentrate on communicating your knowledge in a professional yet personable way.”

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maintaining good moisture levels, as well as being rich in antioxidants. • Spinach really is your leafy saviour. As well as relieving dry, itchy skin, it also gives you a smoother and more radiant-looking complexion. • Alcohol may be okay in moderation but it dehydrates and dulls the complexion. Suggest cutting back over winter and ensure your client is living by the “one glass of alcohol, one glass of water” rule. The results will speak for themselves. • Exfoliation is key. As well as offering your salon or spa’s very own exfoliant as part of your brighter skin programme, explain to your clients the importance of getting rid of dead skin cells at least twice a week. • Vitamin C is not just great for colds. This power-packed antioxidant that fights off signs of ageing is also a known skin brightening agent. Ensure you have an excellent vitamin C serum to offer your clients. • Cleanse, moisturise and mask – three very basic steps in a skin care routine but oh so important. Particularly for women, a double cleanse is the best way to ensure the face is clear of any makeup, oils and pollutants from the day. Exfoliating and then applying a brightening face mask will enhance a complexion instantly.

As well as a tailored brightening plan in-salon, send your clients home with fact sheets on improvements they can make to their diet and ways they can enhance their home care routine. Treatments and products are not instantaneous, so help clients fake it till they make it. Brush up on your makeup skills and suggest a few tips that clients can utilise while your brightening treatments and products work their magic. Align this with your spa or salon's own makeup brand, or partner up with a makeup artist as an add-on to your brightening treatments. Mineral makeup is the perfect way to enhance a client’s natural glow but more subtle shades are required during the winter, so ensure you have a few suggestions up your sleeve that you've tried and tested personally. A little up-selling never hurt anyone! You could even make this into a fun evening at the salon, showcasing your brightening products and performing mini-makeovers for your VIP clients which will update their winter makeup bag. Professional products, home care solutions, simple lifestyle changes and subtle changes in makeup whilst your program is working will have your clients well on their way to a brighter, more radiant skin this season. Remember – a radiant and happy client is the best advertisement for the continued success of your business.

“As well as a tailored brightening plan in-salon, send your clients home with fact sheets on improvements they can make to their diet and ways they can enhance their home care routine.”

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COMBAT PIGMENTATION AND UNEVEN SKIN TONES WITH THESE RADIANCE-ENHANCING SKINCARE FAVOURITES

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1. FLEUR DE MER VITAMIN C SERUM 20% is specially formulated to deliver high concentrations of stable vitamin C, helping lighten blemishes and pigmentation and revitalising skin texture. Offering excellent skin protection due to its antioxidant properties, the serum stimulates collagen for firmer, more hydrated skin with a radiant glow. 2. SOTHYS COSMECEUTIQUE GLYSALAC SKIN PREPARER is a water-soluble, micro-exfoliating cleansing gel combining Glycolic and Salicylic acid to remove dead skin cells and unclog congested pores. Perfect for rejuvenating prematurely ageing or sun-damaged skin. 3. RESULTIME UNIFYING CREAM fights visible signs of ageing and sun damage, such as pigmentation, wrinkles and dryness. This brightening treatment features reflective pigments which encourage light deflection, offering a unified, even complexion as well as comfort and softness. 4. ELIZABETH ARDEN PRO PERFECTING MINERALS SPF15 improves all kinds of skin conditions, offering brightening and age-defying effects and helping problem-prone and sensitive skins. Doubling as a foundation, these magic minerals instantly perfect skin tone, making them a great addition to any skincare routine.

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5. ENVIRON INTENSIVE REVIVAL MASQUE perfects the art of creating visibly luminous, radiant, more revitalized skin. The combination of Asiatic, Mandelic and Lactic Acid assist in healing and stimulating growth factors in the skin. Lactic Acid is a powerful promoter of natural hydration and is known to lighten uneven skin tones. 6. DECLÉOR AROMESSENCE YLANG YLANG PURIFYING SERUM features a powerful combination of essential and plant oils to purify skin, leaving complexions soft, clear, refined and rebalanced. Essential oils include Madagascan Ylang Ylang to tone and soothe, Rosemary to purify, Lemon to cleanse and tighten pores, and Lavender to hydrate and repair. 7. OSMOSIS ENLIGHTEN TREATMENT SERUM targets pigmented, uneven or photo-damaged skin, lightening the skin due to it's liposome-coated tyrosinase inhibitors, which reach the basal layer more effectively. Ideal for calming inflammation, hydrating and restoring skin health.

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8. SOTHYS INSTANT ENERGISING CORRECTOR is the latest generation of EE (even effect) cream. This soft, light-textured cream transforms on application to a universal shade that unifies the complexion and corrects any imperfections on the skin's surface. 9. MEDIK8 WHITE BALANCE CLICK™ INTENSE BRIGHTENING SERUM improves the appearance of any skin tone, especially those suffering age spots, blotchiness, sun damage and melasma. The carefully researched formula contains ingredients identified as 7 key 'routes' to whitening and was developed by the Medik8 anti-pigmentation research programme.

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10. POWERBRIGHT TRX™ DERMALOGICA PURE LIGHT SPF50 is an advanced broad-spectrum moisturiser, which shields skin from UV-induced hyperpigmentation. This medium-weight daytime treatment features Oleosome technology, which uses natural plant spheres filled with sunscreens to increase SPF performance. 11. Transform pigmented skin with OSMOSIS COLOUR CC CREAM FOUNDATION. True Tone Technology offers natural makeup encapsulated in micro-capsules that burst to provide perfect pigments that transform skin tone when applied. Exclusive Light Lifting Effects diffuse skin discoloration while giving the appearance of a brighter, more youthful complexion. Available in Ivory, Warm, Neutral and Mocha. 12. ENVIRON EVENESCENCE CLARIFYING LOTION features a formula including Niacinamide and Sepiwhite-MSH™, two powerful active ingredients which help control the forming and dispersion of melanin responsible for creating dark blemishes and uneven skin tone. Clarifying Lotion can be used on individual pigmented spots or on the whole face and neck for an improved, more even skin tone.

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FOCUS

Paying

LIP SERVICE WITH THE RISE IN POPULARITY OF FULLER-LOOKING LIPS, DR. CATHERINE STONE EDUCATES US ON THE DO'S AND DON'TS OF LIP ENHANCEMENT AND THE SAFEST WAYS TO ACHIEVE A LOOK THAT SUITS YOU

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ylie Jenner’s lips have been on everyone else’s lips for most of 2015. The fresh-faced teen with ‘lip insecurity’ from the age of 10 had remained tight-lipped for months about how this one essential part of her face had ‘blossomed’ in size over the last year. This sparked a disfiguring craze, the #kyliejennerchallenge, where young teens tried to emulate her look by sucking their lips into shot glasses and ending up instead with bruises, painful duck lips and damaged egos – fortunately all temporary – which has resulted in an internet backlash celebrating ‘natural-looking' lips. While the youngest of the over-enhanced Kardashian clan has probably just edged it a bit too far in recent times, her unsurprising ‘admission’ of using temporary lip fillers has sparked a resurgence of interest in the more safe and effective means of lip enhancement. As we age, our lips get smaller, and many are born with lips that are small compared to 114

the rest of their face. Kylie Jenner has strong features with large eyes, so can actually get away with larger lips than many people could normally pull off. Not everyone would look good with her lips, and even now hers are starting to look a little ‘blown out’, which would be a shame for such a beautiful young girl.

“It only takes a few extra millimeters to take a lip from beautiful to grotesque” While people are aware of using dermal fillers to enhance lips, there are many other options and sneaky tricks that an experienced and artistic clinician can utilize to enhance a pout, while retaining a beautifully natural look. Here we’ll explore those tricks, as well as discuss the most common temporary dermal fillers: how they work, what we use them for, their safety, and potential side effects As one of the major features of our face, lips play an important role in facial recognition, communication and sexual attractiveness. When we engage in

conversation with someone who is talking, our eye-tracking typically follows a pattern of a triangle between their eyes to their lips. If a man is talking with a woman, he spends lot of time focused on her lips, more time focused on the lips if she is wearing lipstick, and even more so if she is wearing red lipstick! For centuries, women have painted their lips red to increase their sexual appeal, going back to the Ancient Egyptians, who used rouge on their lips and cheeks to enhance their attractiveness. Sales of red lipstick went up during both World Wars and after 9/11, as women wanted to do something small to feel better in the face of all the hardship. Full, luscious ‘kissable’ lips can help improve the attractiveness and ‘sexiness’ of the face, but be warned; overdo it and your lips will no longer look sexy. Instead, they can start to look weird and deformed, like so many young and more mature starlets who have previously followed that path… think Lindsay Lohan, Jackie Stallone and Goldie Hawn in the movie First Wives Club. It only takes a few extra millimeters to take a lip from beautiful to grotesque, so you need an experienced clinician


MOST WANTED Above: Adriana Lima & Angelina Jolie. Below: Kylie Jenner & Scarlett Johansson.

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to help guide you to the best possible outcome. The best injectors know how and when to say no! So what can be done to make the most of your ‘kissing apparatus’ and still have it looking like you were just born that way? First is the understanding that bigger is not always better. Balance and harmony are important for attractiveness in the face, especially when it comes to the eyes and mouth. The great masters - Leonardo da Vinci and Michelangelo - routinely used mathematics and science to guide their art and relied heavily on the mathematical proportion of PHI or the Golden Ratio of 1/PHI. A quick hint: the ideal lip balance is that your lower lip should be bigger than your upper lip (by a 1:1.6 ratio – the ‘Golden Ratio’ of beauty) and the height of your lips should be approximately the same as the vertical size of your eyes. A great clinician will understand about balance, harmony and proportion and will discuss this with you as part of your assessment. Also, you don’t have to get everything done at once. It is often nice to gradually build the lips up over time, especially if you have very thin lips, so instead of people recognizing that you’ve had work ‘done’, it just looks like you’re gradually getting better. The most commonly used dermal fillers in and around the lips these days are Hyaluronic Acid (HA) dermal fillers. The term ‘dermal filler’ however, just basically describes anything that is put into or under the skin (dermal), to plump it up (filler). At the turn of last century, paraffin wax was often used as a dermal filler but it wasn’t very successful; it often moved or melted and had a very high chance of infection. Collagen injections are another type of filler that have been around for over 40 years but are not often available these days. Collagen was great for filling very fine lines but it disappeared quickly within a couple of months, and the most common form came from cows, so there was a high chance of allergic reaction. In the 1980s and 90s ‘permanent’ dermal fillers using silicone, plastic (PMMA) beads and bone glue were used to enhance lips, resulting in lumpy, disfigured lips that often developed infections and more serious side-effects, like tissue loss from blocking a blood vessel. The concept of a ‘permanent’ filler initially appealed, until it

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FOCUS was realized that the filler only sat permanently in your skin...but the face (and fashions) can change. Although there are still permanent dermal fillers available, most of the good clinicians in New Zealand will avoid them due to both short-term and long-term lack of safety. HA fillers such as Juvederm, Restylane and Esthelis/Belotero have a strong safety history with tens of millions of people treated worldwide over the last 10 years. Hyaluronic acid is found naturally in our bodies and its job in skin is to attract water and create plumpness, which is why our skin becomes thinner, dryer and more wrinkled as we age. With the HA fillers, we are simply putting something back into the skin that is usually there, but in a stabilized form so that it lasts longer – usually 4-6 months for standard lip fillers and fine line fillers, up to 12-18 months (companies claim up to 2 years) for the fillers used to replace volume in the face. The most common lip enhancement request is for bigger lips and this can be achieved a number of different ways. I describe the dermal filler techniques like a cross between painting and sculpting; we paint the product in with a tiny needle and then ‘mould’ it to how we want it to sit. As mentioned before, it’s important that your clinician considers and explains the balances and proportions in your face, looking not just at your lips, but also at your eyes and other features and how they all balance. Where you might benefit from a tiny amount of dermal filler through the border to refresh the ‘crispness’ of the lip border and soften a few tiny lines that are creeping in, someone

THE KARDASHIAN EFFECT

Love them or hate them, there's no doubt the Kardashian clan have had a profound effect on pop culture...and the culture of beauty. The seemingly endless discussion surrounding Kylie Jenner's lips is proof of this alone. Kim Kardashian boasts 24.2 million followers on Twitter and 19.6 million on Instagram, which illustrates just how many people in the world are watching her life and choices. The Kardashian effect does has its positive side, as Kim represents the curvy, seductive, successful modern female and has encouraged woman around the world to be more confident in their skin. The sisters' influence on today's younger generation in terms of makeup, body image and hair is unmistakable. Today's youth are embracing their curves, and unlike previous generations where the 'ideal' was blonde-haired and blue-eyed, the Kardashians have made darker, brunette locks the most desirable, and encouraged many to embrace their exotic looks. The Kardashians' global influence in terms of hair colour and styling is well-noted and now fans can get a piece of the action with the newly-launched Kardashian Beauty Hair styling range, distributed in New Zealand by Well In Touch and made by Farouk Systems. The range includes 7 products: K-Body Volume Foam, Pure Glitz Hair Spray, Take 2 Dry Shampoo and Dry Conditioner, Black Seed Dry Oil, Smooth Style Blow Dry Cream and Curl-Defining Cream-Gel. The big question is: how good is it? To answer this without bias, Allure magazine sent the products individually wrapped in plain paper (to disguise the branding) to pro-hairstylist Frankie Foye (whose clients include Alessandra Ambrosio and Behati Prinsloo), without telling her who made them. Firstly, Foye wanted more. “I’m dying to know who makes this dry conditioner," Foye said. "This is a great product. It’s like dry shampoo mixed with grooming cream and I love the smell. The mousse is amazing, too. It gives really good all-day hold." And after loving the products on her own hair, she used them on her celebrity clients too. “Alessandra Ambrosio didn’t notice I was using anything different from the products I normally use. She loved the way her hair looked and it held up through wind and multiple set changes.”

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“Full, luscious ‘kissable’ lips can help improve the attractiveness and ‘sexiness’ of the face, but be warned; overdo it and your lips will no longer look sexy” else may need just a little through the central lower lip to enhance lip balance, and another individual might need ‘struts’ of filler to help hold their upper lip up as it is very thin. Part of the art of this technique is figuring out what suits each individual. But it’s not just the red part of the lips that is important. The unconscious messages that are sent from the whole lip and lower facial area can have a significant effect on attractiveness. Thin, pursed lips can be perceived as ‘mean’ or ‘tight’ (even if the person isn’t), while drooping mouth corners can make the mouth look ‘sad’. Both of these occur as we get older, due to repeated contraction of the muscles that purse the lip and pull the mouth down. These can be treated with injectable muscle relaxers to soften and relax the lip, and help the mouth look happier, softer and more approachable. We also lose a lot of the supporting soft tissues around the lip as we age and it’s possible to replace this lost volume without even touching the red part of the lips and create beautiful lips by simply improving their support. If you look at a beautiful, youthful lip, it has a defined border with a small ‘ski-jump’ just on the upper edge of the border of the lip. The white part of our lip between the cupid’s bow and the nose tends to flatten and lengthen as we age, along with developing the vertical ‘cat’s bum’ mouth or ‘smokers lines’. A common mistake by less experienced injectors is to try and fill these tiny lines with dermal filler, which then flattens this area even more and turns the lip under, giving a stiff and weird look to the lip. Often the ‘Marge Simpson’ lip, or the ‘monkey mouth’ is the result, where the skin above the lip is pushed out too far and doesn’t move properly. Other treatments can be useful in this area to help soften the lines without making it look weird. A treatment called Platelet-Rich Plasma uses your own platelets to help repair the skin and is an excellent alternative to filler in this area, as it repairs the skin without making it look ‘stiffer’. Instead, it helps the skin become softer, thicker and more youthful. It’s also important to have realistic expectations. If you have very thin lips, it’s unlikely that a) Angelina Jolie-style lips will suit you or b) that it’s possible. Think of the lips like a couple of fresh pillows which lose their stuffing as we age. In the same way that we can’t stuff a round pillow and make it into a square pillow, it’s usually difficult to change the natural shape of your lip. Some people try anyway, but you will never have a proper ‘square pillow’ (using the analogy), usually just a ‘square-ish and completely overstuffed’ pillow, like many of the bad dermal filler lips that we see out there. When used by an experienced injector, the HA fillers can give beautiful, natural-looking results and the good news is that the HA fillers are reversible. So even in the worst case scenario where someone gives you a result that you don’t like, we can quickly and easily remove the filler with tiny injections of hyaluronidase, the enzyme that breaks it down in your body. The hyaluronidase enzyme works within 48 hours and can often start breaking down the HA filler as soon as it’s injected into the skin. Dr Catherine Stone is the founder of The Face Place MedSpa and achieved international recognition through her role on the TV program "Ten Years Younger". Catherine has trained with the pioneers of cosmetic Botox and many of the top cosmetic doctors in the world.


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TREND WATCH

men's

52%

ROOM UK

of male consumers globally consider their looks and appearance to be either important or very important

HEADWAY'S LONDON BEAUTY CORRESPONDENT, STEPHEN HANDISIDES, TALKS ABOUT THE RISE OF THE MALE GROOMING INDUSTRY AND THE PRODUCTS AND TRENDS THAT GO ALONG WITH IT.

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hanks to the continued influence of well-groomed superstars, such as David Beckham, men’s increasing interest in their personal appearance has never been higher. According to Datamonitor, not only do 52% of male consumers globally consider their looks and appearance to be either important or very important, but 29% touch-up their look throughout the day. This percentage rises to 39% of teenage men aged 15-17, the future users of grooming and beauty products. So if you're not catering to men in your spa or salon, you could be missing out on what is a far more lucrative market than ever before. Many men around the world have taken grooming 118

and spun it on its head. The global craze for the ‘hipster beard’ shows no sign of slowing down and has impacted sales of razor blades along the way. For example, Procter & Gamble in the U.S. reported razor and shaving accessory sales of $3.7 billion in 2014, down 2% year on year. If you’re going to go for it and grow a beard then the best way to look after your facial fuzz is to think of it as one of those perennial shrubs in your garden – the ones that need careful pruning, shaping and feeding to flourish. Once you've got a decent bit of growth going, you can start maintaining it with a beard trimmer and don’t forget the all-important moisturiser for the skin underneath. New products for men continue to hit the market at an ever-expanding rate; the main problem for men in setting up a grooming routine is to find their way through the maze. That's where the expert advice

of the beauty therapist comes in. Over the past two years, the U.S was the most active in terms of new product launches, accounting for 21% of new men’s grooming products, but the UK is another active market, which represented 17% of global new men’s launches during the same period. The most popular products in the grooming world for guys are self-tanners, anti-ageing creams, under-eye serums and of course, hair products. This is also where the biggest growth is coming through globally in terms of new product launches for men. Whatever you think of your face, you only have one – so you'd better learn to look after it. Luckily it’s easier now than ever if you select the correct anti-ageing product for your skin and your lifestyle. Men like to keep things easy and fuss-free which is why an all-in-one product - one that contains sunscreen, antioxidants and hydrating benefits - is just the ticket. My recommendation is to seek out moisturisers with good doses of vitamins A, C and E. You'll know if the product you're considering purchasing has a hefty dose of antioxidants if you find one in the first five ingredients listed on the packaging. The continued rise of the reality TV show in countries such as Australia, the UK and the U.S, has led to more and more men taking pride in their appearance and seeking that healthy-looking golden glow. In the UK, word is finally spreading that this should no longer involve hours lying on a sunbed soaking up harmful rays. While the 'GTL' motto of the Jersey Shore boys does have some merit in terms of grooming (gym, tanning, laundry), using natural-looking fake tanners and wearing sunscreen is nothing to be scoffed at. Research shows that melanoma kills twice as many men than women, therefore it's imperative to always have a broad-spectrum sunscreen on-hand, even during winter months. We all know the importance of a great haircut but what about body hair? Many women really like a hairy chest. In fact, it’s often mentioned as one of the “sexiest” parts of a man. However, a lot of women really don’t like a hairy back. And I mean really. Luckily, there’s a solution which is painless, quick and effective – and doesn’t involve razor blades (not sure I’d trust myself trying to shave my back to be honest!) Laser hair removal isn’t just for women. Experts tell me that more and more men are opting for the same type of treatment to remove unwanted hair on their own bodies. In fact, men now make up around 15-20% of a clinic’s laser hair removal patients...and this number is on the rise. Presenting your best self to the world is easy when you know how and takes just an extra five minutes in the morning - being one step closer to the David Beckham's of this world can't be a bad thing! Stephen Handisides is a New Zealand-born, UK-based, TV presenter and beauty aesthetics expert, who runs the largest global aesthetic event in the UK - the MyFaceMyBody Awards. The awards is being launched in New Zealand and Australia this year, with the big event held in Sydney on November 28th.


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Total Beauty Supplies Ltd are known as a preferred supplier of hairdressing essentials, but they also have a wide range of quality professional beauty therapy products on offer too. Here are our picks of the season...

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THE GOOD OIL

Made in Britain, Aromatruth Essential Oils are 100% pure, undiluted oils of the finest quality and come in an array of fragrances: from Lemongrass, through to Black Pepper, Bergamot, Chamomile and Orange. Our pick is Sandalwood; its rich scent with woody undertones helps calm, soothe and relax.

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BRUSH UP

Introducing the Cala Makeup Brush range. The reasonably-priced professional range is joined by Cala's Luxury range, with each brush made from the highest quality natural and synthetic bristles. TBS currently have a great deal on their Cala Makeup Brush Kit, which includes a 21-slot fold-up pouch, and a gorgeous selection of brushes.

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BODY BEAUTIFUL

Designed to maximise body massage treatments, Skintruth Rich Massage Cream is a luxurious nourishing cream, leaving skin soft and revived. Geranium, Lavender and Shea help tone, smooth and de-stress whilst hydrating and regenerating.

BEAUTY ROOM

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With beauty therapy furniture a feature of Total Beauty Supplies' product range, their most popular item is the Hydraulic Facial Chair, complete with face hole and removable arms. A variety in styles of beauty beds, manicure tables, operator stools and trolleys are also available to suit every salon need.

SOFT TOUCH

Skintruth Optimise Velvet Soft Facial Serum is a beautifully soft serum that helps restore radiance to skin. The unique formulation dissolves easily, replenishing moisture and leaving skin feeling like silk. Perfect for all skin types.

FRESH START

A deep cleansing formula for all skins, Skintruth Rejuvenating Hot Cloth Cleanser gently removes impurities and stubborn makeup residue. This uplifting cleanser is infused with cocoa butter, soothing Aloe Vera and Eucalyptus oil, known for its anti-inflammatory properties.

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WAX ON

Total Beauty Supplies' own brand of Hot Wax Granules is a best-seller; perfect for sensitive skin and great value for money. TBS's selection of professional waxing products includes everything from Tea Tree Creme Wax, through to pre and post-wax care lotions.

To order the Total Beauty Supplies catalogue visit www.tbs.co.nz or call 0800 180 190 119


PROFILE

Like Camirand, I started by using a tattoo artist’s device with a flat array of four needles that could penetrate 1-2mm into the skin. I had previously been trained by the doyen of tattoo artists so I could adapt that skill to safely needle patients’ faces but I learned that intensive needling put the patients out of social circuit for up to 10 days and the procedure took a long time. I also noticed that thick scars didn't change sufficiently. I reasoned that if one could use a roller with 3mm needles, one could needle deeper and probably faster and because there would be fewer holes, the skin would return to a normal appearance sooner. Intensive treatments this way looked almost the same as using a tattoo gun but the healing time was reduced to 5-7 days. By 1999, I had a sufficient number of clinical results to make a presentation at the International Plastic, Reconstructive and Aesthetic Society conference in San Francisco. The lecture theatre was packed and one prescient comment was that my lecture was the most provocative and exciting idea for the coming century. I believed the clinical results indicated there was regeneration of tissue and in particular, restoration of the normal lattice arrangement of the fibres in the dermis. Regeneration had never before been described as a result of any intervention and the first publication of skin needling was in the' Hot Topics' section of Aesthetic Surgery journal. At that stage, I presumed the reason for regeneration was from platelet-derived growth factors released after puncturing tiny vessels in the dermis. At the same time, Ferguson in the UK was studying TGF-beta-3 in preventing the formation of scars. In time I realised that since TGF beta-3 was released from platelets, that it was the most likely cause of tissue regeneration and scar reduction when needling skin. However, there was no proof of this until Aust took up the challenge to study skin needling and his team discovered the release of the TGF-beta growth factors in simple wounding and in skin needling were diametrically different. In skin here are few who wounds, TGF-beta 1, 2 and 3 are all released can claim to be but the TGF-beta-3 fades away within 24 hours, true pioneers, but and TGF-beta 1 and 2 persist for a week or two. Dr Des Fernandes is one In skin needling, the reverse situation applies such man. Dr Fernandes and this has been confirmed in repeated tests: has become an ANTI-AGEING SKINCARE AND MEDICAL TGF-beta 3 persists at raised levels for up to two internationally-recognised AESTHETIC EXPERT, DR DES FERNANDES, weeks whereas TGF-beta 1 and 2 fade away figure in the worlds of DISCUSSES THE PAST, PRESENT AND within 24 hours. This detail provoked the idea anti-ageing skincare, FUTURE OF SKIN NEEDLING that needling again a week later would increase medical aesthetics and cosmetic surgery. One of the effects of TGF-beta-3 and produce results the champions of the use of vitamin A in skincare that were superior to needling at longer intervals. and a leader in the field of medical needling, he has a list of prestigious published However, in order to do needling as intensively, we needed to fully anaesthetise papers under his belt, has been named as one of Insignia's "Top 10 Plastic the skin and that requires sedation because it can be very uncomfortable just Surgeons in the World" and continues to lecture around the globe. to get good anaesthesia of the face and neck. The question then arose about Dr Des Fernandes visited New Zealand at the end of June to conduct a how to make needling easier for the patient and also make it less dramatic in needling demonstration and seminar, and to launch Environ’s new Avance appearance. DFP312TM peptide serum. Here, he discusses the history of skin needling and By using rollers with needles that protruded only 1.0mm, we could do skin talks to Headway ahead of his arrival in Auckland. needling under simple topical anaesthesia. That made needling more accessible "Needling has come a long way since 1995 when skin needling came onto the and because we worked less intensively, the clinical and social sequelae would scene after Andre Camirand first published his experience about making scars be easier to tolerate. I assumed that with an intensive needling, one makes about less visible by “dry needling”. When I extended the concept to rejuvenating skin in five times more holes in the skin than we could by using topical anaesthesia 1997, doctors ridiculed the idea that a simple pinprick could have such powers.

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EVOLUTION OF SKIN

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“The challenge now is to optimise needling and I believe that using well-selected peptides can enhance our results.” so I recommended six treatments done at weekly intervals. After several months I realised this regime produced results very similar to one intensive treatment but more conservatively-minded people worried that frequent treatments would negate the benefits of needling. Indeed, some “authorities” condemned weekly treatments even though they had no clinical evidence at all. Aust and colleagues doubted that needling at weekly intervals had any value but fortunately researched this and discovered that needling at weekly intervals gave far superior results. They also showed without doubt that topical vitamin A, and they used Environ Vitamin ACE oil in their studies, virtually doubled the benefits of needling. There is no clinical doubt and scientific investigation has proved that the best way to induce changes by needling is to use topical vitamin A and repeat the needling within 7 days. I believe the reason for this is that one builds up the concentrations of TGF-beta-3 to levels unattainable by even the most intensive needling because each needling experience adds to the previous levels of TGF-beta-3. The challenge now is to optimise needling and I believe that using well-selected peptides can enhance our results. My clinical research shows dramatically better results when I add a special cocktail of peptides. I believe we should not use growth factors themselves, but rather molecules that will induce the natural balance of growth factors. I am currently researching needling every second or third day and the indications are that this regime gives the greatest tightening of skin that I have ever seen. Needling does something clinicians have craved for centuries: it causes regeneration and rejuvenation and we will learn to harness its powers more effectively in the coming years."

5 MINUTES WITH DR FERNANDES

What do you think has been your most important skin care discovery to date? I think skin needling has probably been the most important discovery because needling makes changes that we have never ever been able to make for skin before, which is to totally regenerate it and not merely make it look good again. The skin is actually rejuvenated from the DNA upwards. What types of skin would benefit most from this treatment? I’ve reached the stage now where I believe that every single person on earth would benefit from skin needling, not only to treat any scars that they might have, but also to rejuvenate and tighten up their skin. What are some of the myths surrounding skin needling? The first myth is that you don’t have to have needling to get a good result; the second is that short needles will be adequate. You have to have needling which will cause release of platelets in order to get the growth factors that will make the changes. The third myth is that you don’t need vitamin A to prepare the skin. Vitamin A is absolutely essential and the longer that people are on vitamin A before needling, and the longer they use it afterwards, the better the results they will get. What is your best advice for keeping skin youthful without resorting to surgery? I think that the proven benefits of vitamin A can never be ignored, so I advise everyone when they are young to start using vitamin A, antioxidants, vitamin C and also peptides to keep their skin healthy and as thick as possible. I also advise that even young people in their 20’s have needling with me, in order to keep their skin looking radiant and young. What are your must-have products? I generally travel with the products that I am busy researching. If I am discussing products currently on the market, I use C-Quence Serum, C-Quence Crème, Colostrum, Retinol 3 and my Roll-CIT and because I use the Roll-CIT, I can use Focus Hydrating Serum. I also always use the Focus Frown Serum because I don’t want to look cross while I am lecturing! What kind of changes would you like to see happen in the beauty/skincare industry? I would like to see better recognition by doctors of the value of skin care therapists. I would also like skin care therapists who are particularly interested in serious skin care and skin care treatments to be better paid for their work and also better acknowledged. 121


TREND WATCH

all that

GLITTERS

I

nternational makeup artist Leiane Taylor was so inspired by Samala Cosmetics new metallic eye paints, she created an editorial around them. The stunning images, shot in Australia with photographer Katie Nolan, are a masterclass in today's modern metallics. "Essentially, I wanted to show that glitter isn't gauche," says Leiane. "Sparkles can be sophisticated and I felt inspired to show how they can be used on the runway, in the pages of magazines and in real life. Their reflective qualities are so seductive, and the Samala Cosmetics eye paints are a must-have for me."

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METALLIC MAGIC

Using Samala Cosmetics Paint and BB Cream gives a subtle, sheer glow to the skin.

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HEAVY METAL

Black has never looked so beautiful. Use Samala Cosmetics lipstick Foolish mixed with Black Eye Paint for lips that demand attention.

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PRECIOUS METALS

Gold, silver and black combine in a glittering look that makes a statement without being overwhelming. Recreate the metal effect using Samala Cosmetics hot array of smouldering Eye Paints. 126


SPECIAL PROMOTION

makeup

MAESTRO SOUGHT-AFTER INTERNATIONAL MAKEUP ARTIST, LEIANE TAYLOR, TALKS ABOUT HER PASSION FOR CREATIVE MAKEUP ARTISTRY AND HER NEW ROLE AS SAMALA COSMETICS CREATIVE DIRECTOR

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eiane Taylor, Samala Cosmetics new Creative Director, is very clear about what motivates her passion. “I channel makeup as a form of expression. Creating is what it's all about for me," she says. "It's both a craft and an art. Makeup can be done by a makeup person or an artist and I strive to be the artist.” Born and trained in Australia but now based in Los Angeles, Leiane has joined the Samala Cosmetics team not only to help further develop the brand, but also to foster the talent of students attending Auckland's highly successful makeup academy, SRA, the brainchild of leading makeup artist, Samala Robinson. “SRA is all about creativity, which is great because I have a total passion for it," says Leiane. "If I can’t perform a job with excitement and love, then I won’t do it. Like Samala herself, makeup is an important form of expression for me, a creative outlet, an art form." What inspires you?

I’m inspired by so many things. On the job, it’s generally the essence of the original concept and research that inspires me to produce my own interpretations. Creating for me is a process and I use different mediums for inspiration. Another great love of mine is painting. I am passionate about the arts in general, supporting new artists and helping to develop their talent. What is the most important beauty advice you can give to a woman? To love yourself by honestly knowing who you are. Understand that beauty truly does come from within. The desire to be kind and loving shows how much you care. Makeup just makes beauty pretty. True beauty comes from your soul. Who are some of the most interesting celebrities you have worked with throughout your career? I have worked with a long list of celebrities; among them LeAnn Rimes, Michelle Monaghan, Sofia Vergara, Will I Am, Lily Allen, Florence and the Machine, Massive Attack, Kevin Costner, John Mayer, the Ting Tings and Rene Russo… to name a few. Working in LA it’s hard not to work with

celebrities! I’ve also worked on ad campaigns for Macy’s, Neiman Marcus and Emirates, numerous music videos and commercials, along with editorial work for Elle, Marie Claire and Vogue. What are your favourite makeup items from the Samala Cosmetics range? That’s an unfair question because I am in love with all of the Samala Cosmetics products but I am particularly obsessed with the eye paints at the moment. Tell us about the latest projects you have been working on? Having recently become the Creative Director for Samala Cosmetics is a big project for me. Outside of this I have a few concepts in the pipeline, one of which is a documentary. I’m also working on a really exciting charity book (in support of brain cancer) alongside Samala Cosmetics. For more information on the Samala Robinson Academy, phone 0800 SRA MAKEUP. Visit Samala Professional Cosmetics at Level 1, 3 Melrose Street, Auckland. Online store coming soon facebook.com/ samalacosmetics 127


BUSINESS

CLINIC SOPS:

powerful tools or a waste of time?

NADIA MCCRACKEN DISCUSSES THE IMPORTANCE OF STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURES IN-SALON AND THE KEY BYLAW CHANGES AFFECTING THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY

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henever the topic of standard operating procedures (SOPs) comes up, most clinic owners or managers immediately fall into one of two categories: lovers or haters. The lovers understand that SOPs are essential to ensure consistency in their clinic, while the haters see SOPs as total waste of time. Those who love SOPs understand that it’s a document that defines and communicates their clinic’s expected behaviours and delivery of services. In simple terms, it’s a document that describes how their clinic or spa conducts business. It defines the look and feel of their business. Your SOPs are normally living documents that detail written instructions describing specific steps your staff need to follow in all situations under defined conditions. It should be a “work-in-progress” document, undergoing reviews and changes on a regular basis. If you don’t already have SOPs in place in your clinic, it may be time to consider writing one. Ideally, SOPs should be a team effort. Involving your staff in developing and commenting on your SOPs often means that they will be happy to use them. Ask staff

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to write down exactly what they would do during a treatment or a specific scenario. As an example: how should your staff handle a client complaint? At the same time as building your clinic SOPs, this provides you with an opportunity to review what your team is doing.

“The new law now requires ALL beauty and nail clinics – even small home-based or mobile clinics - to have a licence.” The main benefits of SOPs are to ensure that good practice is achieved at all times, clarifying who does what and giving guidance for all staff. Your clinic SOPs are there to assist in the continual improvement of your business. Additional benefits include: • Helping assure quality and consistency of service. • Helping ensure that good practice is achieved at all times.

• Providing an opportunity to fully utilise the expertise of all team members. • Enabling clinic managers and owners to delegate. • Helping avoid confusion over who does what (role clarification). • SOPs are useful tools for training new team members. Your SOP contains valuable information about your business – even your clinic’s trade secrets – so it must be treated with care and respect. For this reason, your SOP should be considered a signed contract, with signatures gathered from each person who is in possession of a copy. Whenever changes are made to your SOP, make sure you replace the old information and get it signed by each team member. New Zealand Government and local council regulations state the basic requirements that your clinic needs to comply with and allow individual businesses to define how work gets done by their employees. Your SOPs typically define the procedures necessary to maintain treatment and service output that conforms to industry standards and regulations - and your own business


expectations. Using these procedures and guidelines, your staff can complete their job and tasks reliably, consistently and safely. Apart from the fact that your policies and procedures are an important tool to help ensure consistency in service and treatment quality, having an SOP became essential when the Auckland Council changed their Health & Hygiene bylaw and Code of Practice (COP) in July last year. The new law now requires ALL beauty and nail clinics – even small home-based or mobile clinics - to have a licence. The purpose of this license is to ensure the safety of the general public, our clients. At this stage, the new regulations only apply to Auckland beauty and nail clinics; however, other local councils are reviewing their own regulations as we speak. Because of these new law changes, now is a good time to review your clinic’s policies and procedures to ensure they meet best practice. You should also make sure that every staff member in your clinic knows what is expected of them.

WHAT ARE THE KEY CHANGES IN THE BYLAW AFFECTING OUR INDUSTRY?

CLIENT CONSULTATION AND CONSENT

The Auckland City Council has stipulated that one area all clinics should focus on in particular is client consultation. It is now required that every client booked in for a treatment must fully understand the procedure, and they must give informed consent before the treatment is performed. The Auckland Council Health & Hygiene Code of Practice states that: “Prior to the commencement of any specified service that risks breaking the skin, the operator must: a) a  dvise the customer who wishes to undergo such service of the risks associated with the service and the potential for infection to occur during and after the service. b) g  ive advice appropriate to the procedure to be undertaken, concerning precautions and post-service procedures that should be taken by the customer who wishes to undergo the service.”

LIFT & LUMIERE NEW INNOVATION Two different and complementary formulas designed to work together to achieve spectacular anti-ageing results. Restore beauty, radiance and comfort for a more youthful-looking skin. Featuring native maritime cells - the blue gold of the ocean offering exceptional regenerating power at all skin levels.

It is therefore required by law that you provide a thorough consultation every time, for every treatment where there is potential risk of breaking the skin. For a client to provide consent, the following are essential elements... • That the consent is voluntarily given by the client. • The consent is based on full provision of information on risks to the client. • Consent is given by a client who has the capacity to provide consent.

AFTERCARE The council also requires you to give your client the appropriate aftercare instructions after every treatment, and you need to check that your client fully understands these instructions. It is not required but advisable to provide your client with a written aftercare information sheet to take home at the conclusion of his/her treatment.

QUALIFICATIONS Another key requirement under the new regulations is that staff must be qualified. However, not all beauty services require proof of qualifications. At this stage, council bylaws stipulate that all therapists providing electrolysis, red vein treatment, derma-rolling/stamping, manicures/pedicures, exfoliation, sunbeds, IPL and laser MUST hold a National (NZQA) or an industry-recognized qualification. It is worth noting that the council would not accept 'product certificates' as training and that they don’t have an 'approved' list of training providers. The Council Environmental Health Officers will, during the inspection process of each clinic, assess operators' knowledge and skills of the health or beauty service they provide. You can visit HITO’s website -www.hito.org.nz - if you have any questions regarding industry qualifications. HITO are an organisation appointed by the government to develop and implement industry qualifications for the hair and beauty sectors. You can also visit the Auckland City Council website for more information about the new regulations - www.aucklandcouncil.govt.nz. Nadia McCracken is a spa and beauty trainer and consultant and has been at the cutting-edge of spa and beauty treatments for over 24 years. Nadia has been involved in all aspects of the industry as a therapist, tutor, spa manager and clinic owner. Visit her website at spabeauty.co.nz

Blue cosmetics, future of your beauty Phone: 0800 33 888 3 www.worldbeaute.co.nz info@worldbeaute.co.nz www.facebook.com/AlgologieFleurdemer 129


FOCUS

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1

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An extraordinarily lightweight serum, SOTHYS ENERGIZING BOOSTER enhances and restores radiance to winter-weary skin, with a dose of Siberian Ginseng extract which optimizes skin quality and resistance.

Let lips pack a punch with GLO MINERALS SUEDE MATTE CRAYONS in CRUSH and SORBET. These crayon-inspired chunky pencils with built-in sharpeners provide long-wear intense pay-off and are enriched with vitamins C, E, mango oil and shea butter.

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Like a giant snow globe, shaken gently, SPARITUAL SNOW GLOBE TOP EFFECTS use multiple sizes, shapes and shades of glitter to create chilled effects that appear to coat the nails with frost and freshly fallen snow.

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Calm and soothe dry skin with OSMOSIS IMMERSE INTENSE MOISTURE. Immerse contains powerful antioxidant oils from blueberry, red raspberry and calendula, along with barrier-restoring natural lipids to moisturise and replenish.

PRIORI ADVANCED AHA SKIN RENEWAL CREAM improves skin texture and radiance, revealing a softer, smoother complexion. This lightweight cream is designed to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, offering both exfoliation and hydration for multi-layer skin renewal and antioxidant protection. Perfect for dry, sun-damaged skin.

ALGOLOGIE SENSI PLUS TRIPLE C CREAM protects, softens and purifies to restore a more uniform complexion that is hydrated and nourished. Also great for soothing redness, toning and refreshing skin.

winter beauty

IT LIST

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SAMALA COSMETICS GOLD EYE PAINT gives a gorgeous metallic sheen to eyelids. Water-proof, smudge-proof and crease-proof, to really make your peepers pop, blend with Samala Cosmetics BB Cream for a radiant glow.

THIS SEASON, TREAT YOUR SKIN AND YOUR BEAUTY BAG TO OUR PICK OF PRODUCTS, PRIMED TO REJUVENATE, NOURISH AND ALLOW YOUR INNER AND OUTER BEAUTY TO SHINE. 131


8

ELIZABETH ARDEN PRO TRIPLE ACTION PROTECTOR is a ground-breaking anti-ageing product, formulated with a combination of unique ingredients, including DNA Enzyme Complex, a potent protein protection Antioxidant Complex and broad spectrum SPF 50.

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SUNDÃRI CHAMOMILE EYE OIL smoothes and replenishes delicate skin around eyes. It reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and provides essential antiinflammatory benefits.

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New ENVIRON AVANCE DFP312TM CREAM features a complex of uniquely blended super-smart ingredients that work in synergy, not only with each other, but also with the skin, to help actively defy age.

Gentle and rejuvenating, RESULTIME CALMING CREAM soothes discomfort immediately. Calming peptides limit the release of inflammatory mediators in the skin tissue and vitamin B3 improves skin’s tolerance threshold. Ideal for sensitive skin.

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Arrow Beauty introduce SUNDÃRI skincare to NZ. Created by supermodel Christy Turlington, the range promotes beauty from the inside-out by balancing Ayurvedic principles of mind, body and spirit. Formulated with organic ingredients and therapeutic-grade essential oils, key ingredients range from Aloe Vera and Lavender, to Gotu Kola - known to stimulate collagen production - and the versatile plant, Neem.

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9

We love the luxury gourmet brews from HARNEY & SONS FINE TEAS. The range consists of over 80 rich, warming flavours: from Ginger, Licorice, Pumpkin Spice and Cranberry Autumn, through to Hot Cinnamon Sunset and Chocolate Mint. Dry & Tea salon, who believe in the ritual of perfectly brewed tea, choose Harney & Sons. "It's something to savour, flavours and aromas that create a sense of calm and relaxation."

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Illuminate your features with GLO MINERALS SHIMMER BRICK in GLEAM. Swirl the four colours together for an all-over glow or use individually to highlight and define face, cheeks and eyes. Formulated with an exclusive antioxidant blend of vitamins A, C, E and Green Tea Extract.


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BUSINESS

self-development in the

BEAUTY INDUSTRY WHETHER YOU'RE A THERAPIST OR A BUSINESS OWNER, THE PATH TO WORK SUCCESS AND FULFILMENT LIES IN CONTINUED EDUCATION

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he industry we work in is both vibrant and dynamic. However, it can be all too easy to fall into a comfort zone where work seems like a daily grind of serving one client after another. If you have reached this stage, I would hazard a guess that your self-education has also hit a plateau and you have stopped challenging yourself. Putting in place a self-development plan can be an effective way to revive your enthusiasm and stimulate you to take your performance to a higher level.

WHAT DO YOU NEED IN A PLAN? A self-development plan doesn't mean you have to write a novel. At the most basic level, your plan can simply be a commitment to do something to improve your skills over the next 12 months. By making a straightforward, sincere commitment to improve yourself, you will begin a process that opens up a world of possibilities. Your plan may evolve and become more specific over time, but initially focus only on building momentum. Make a commitment to yourself to undertake at least two short courses in the next 12 months that build your business or therapist skills, on top of any product training you may do. Another simple to do is list all of your skills and rate yourself honestly out of 10 on all of them. Compare your skill-set against some of those mentioned below and you will begin to see gaps that can form into a more targeted plan you can then prioritise. Don't get caught procrastinating over the detail of your plan: get started on learning something as soon as possible and let the ideas and the plan flow from there.

WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS OF SELF-DEVELOPMENT?

WHAT SKILLS DO YOU NEED TO DEVELOP AS A THERAPIST?

I see self-development as the key to having a passion for what you do. If you are simply turning up to work to get a pay cheque, then the days will just continue to drag on. If you are focused on continually learning and developing your skills, you will approach your job with much more enthusiasm. You will be looking for ways to better serve your clients and this will increase your satisfaction daily. Self-development also opens up new opportunities. When you learn something new you will find that other ideas flow through from that. This may be an opportunity for the business you work in, or it may be discovering an area of the industry to build your career around and make your own. What is certain is that every time you step into a room with an educator, you will learn something new or be motivated to do something better in your career. Whichever it is, you will go back to your job with a new boost of enthusiasm to improve what you are doing.

Your core role as a therapist is that of an expert who can identify how someone can improve and maintain their appearance, and also to be a skilled relationship builder and communicator. You not only need the treatments skills to identify and deliver what a client needs, but also the communication skills to develop a long-term relationship that keeps them coming back and trusting you as an adviser. Some specific skills that are important are... • Listening and communication • Knowledge of the skin and its analysis • Advanced treatment skills • Time management and goal setting • General sales and marketing skills • Skills related to understanding different personalities and how to improve them

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“If your goal is to advance your treatment skills, my suggestion is to choose something that builds on an existing skill and take it to a higher level. Alternatively, select something new that pushes you out of familiar territory.” SELF-DEVELOPMENT AS A BUSINESS OWNER If you are currently a business owner, or your goal is to start your own business, you need to acquire another set of skills on top of your technical skills as a therapist. One of the most vital is having the discipline and knowledge to implement a structure that ensures all the important tasks get done without you doing everything. Some things you need to learn are... • How to maintain standards • How to market your business • How to keep your skill levels high so you can set an example for your staff • How to motivate staff and help them develop • How to protect your business and comply with regulations • How to balance the books and control costs There are courses that teach these different elements of business management but you can also access personal guidance on your development from some of the great business coaches and professionals in the local industry. Everyone, no matter how experienced they are, can benefit from outside expertise to advise on running certain aspects of your business. I would like to think I have as much experience as anyone in our industry but I still look for expert guidance. My team have a great marketing person who helps plan our yearly calendar, keeps my websites up-to-date and organises flyers, newsletters and monthly emails. We have a business coach who ensures we have the most updated systems, develops our business plan and motivates staff, as well as sets monthly targets for the team. I use other specialists in insurance, book-keeping, accounting, legal, etc. These people provide me with a great source of information to draw on. Without them, I simply would not have the time to continue my own self-development and keep my business running at a high standard. As a business owner, you need to set an example by continuing your own self-development. Set your prices at a level that budgets for you to effectively train and develop yourself and your staff. If you don't, you will limit where you and your business can grow to.

MAKE A TIME TO PLAN YOUR SELF-DEVELOPMENT If your goal is to advance your treatment skills, my suggestion is to choose something that builds on an existing skill and take it to a higher level. Alternatively, select something new that pushes you out of familiar territory. When you are selecting the course, also think of the type of clients you have. What skills would allow you to make better recommendations to them? What services would they pay more for, and attention to, if you could do them at an expert level? What is an improvement clients commonly want to see in their skin and what new service could help you achieve this in a better and more targeted way? Trends in our industry include products focused around effective anti-ageing, treatments that deliver more lasting changes and mixing different kinds of treatment modalities together in a structured way to get better results. Courses that give you these technical skills will help you to stay at the forefront of business and set you apart from the rest.

There is no time like the present to get started on your self-development. Take the first steps; sit down and commit yourself to a specific action or event. Pick something that is of interest to you, or look at the list of skills you have and choose something that fills or bridges a gap. Arm yourself with reminders to pull out your self-development plan and review how you have progressed. Even if you don't know exactly what you want to do in your career, it is important not to stagnate. Continually developing your skills will attract opportunities to come your way, keeping you fresh and invigorated. With almost three decades of experience in the beauty industry, Gay Wardle is one of Australia’s most awarded salon owners and educators. Her Skinology salons have won numerous national awards for excellence and were named Australia’s Best Beauty Business in the 2009 Australian Small Business Champions Awards. On a personal level, Gay has been inducted into two Hall of Fames (APIA Hall of Fame and Reed Exhibitions Hall of Fame) in 2014. 135


NEW PRODUCTS

1 2 3 3 OF THE BEST… Decléor Aroma White C+ Even Skin Tone Revealer is a lightly tinted CC cream, enriched with Roman Chamomile essential oil and peony extracts, giving skin a velvet-smooth finish and revealing a more radiant, brighter complexion. Algologie Lift & Lumiere Firming Anti-Dark Spot Serum combats signs of ageing and minimises pigmentation. With reenergising and unifying powers, thanks to advanced marine technology, firmer, smoother, glowing skin is guaranteed. Counteract skin redness with Dermalogica Redness Relief Primer. This soothing, translucent primer tinted with natural green botanical extracts smoothes and strengthens barrier protection, leaving skin calm and protected.

Nail The Nude Celebrate the lighter side of colour with OPI's Soft Nudes collection. The range of blush, nude and matte shades deliver rich, true-tobottle colour with just a few coats, even in the lightest hues. Our favourites are the plush, soft pink of 'Put It In Neutral' and the pearlescent grey sheen of 'This Silver's Mine'.

BEAUTY

shelf

Blush, nude and matte shades deliver rich, true-to-bottle colour with just a few coats, even in the lightest hues

Face The Day

For youthful skin with a luminous, sun-kissed glow, try St. Tropez Gradual Tan Plus Anti-Aging For Face. The active formula helps reduce signs of ageing, providing powerful hydration without blocking pores. It also works to firm and plump the skin whilst lifting fine lines, giving skin a natural, bronze glow.

Calming Influence

Feet First A reparative balm for dry, tired feet, SpaRitual Sole Mate Hydrating Foot Balm delivers HydroSoft Technology to tired tootsies in need of some TLC. Shea butter heals dryness and cracks, while papaya and tamanu oil dissolve calluses with added natural antibacterial benefits. Feet are left smooth, soothed and protected.

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Cleanse face and eyes gently in one step with Sothys Sensitive Skin Micellar Cleansing Water. Formulated with Spa™ Thermal Water, this soothing cleanser was designed to protect against external aggression, calm symptoms of discomfort and balance skin’s tolerance threshold.


NEW PRODUCTS

1 2 3 3 OF THE BEST‌ HydroPeptide Perfecting Gloss in Beach Blush restores lip fullness instantly, while enhancing lasting suppleness and hydration. This lip volumiser will perfect your pout with a refreshing, cool-tingly sensation and a luminous gloss. Jane Iredale introduce new tinted Lip Drink shades, Crush and Buff. Containing antioxidants, Green Tea Extract, and Vitamins E and C, these lip smackers add a pretty hint of colour whilst protecting and hydrating. Makeup Me Liquiliner in Anisette is a luscious black liquid liner for adding drama and attitude to eyes. This smudge-resistant, long-lasting and premium quality liner is a must-have to create flicks, definition and glammed-up looks for winter.

Holiday Skin

BEAUTY

shelf

This under-eye awakening concealer instantly illuminates tired eyes, reducing dark circles and minimising puffiness

VuTan Blue Tanning Mousse blends violet and brown base tones to replicate the olive skin of the Mediterranean. This lightweight formula has unique moisturising and skin rejuvenating benefits, resulting in an even, streak-free tan. The inclusion of advanced BioTan Plus formula delivers anti-ageing and skin repair qualities. Available from Arrow Beauty.

Fresh Start Elizabeth Arden PRO Gentle Facial Cleanser gently exfoliates skin, leaving it soft, soothed and radiant. This light, lathering cleanser for all skin types contains pH correct Lactic Acid and essential skin vitamin antioxidants A, C, E & Pro-A for a nourishing and fresh-faced cleanse.

Talon Quest Textures and tones collide for CND's Contradictions Collection, combining an edgy street feel with elegant details. Available in both CND Shellac and Vinylux Weekly, the colour palette includes Safety Pin, Naked Naivete, Tartan Punk, Rouge Rite, Couture Covet, Peacock Plume, Poison Plum and Grommet.

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Eyes Wide Open Wake up to brighter looking eyes with Medik8 Dark Circles. This under-eye awakening concealer instantly illuminates tired eyes, reducing dark circles, minimising puffiness and smoothing and evening out the look of the entire eye area.


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VITAMIN A = RETINOL

Helps speed up cell turnover for dramatically diminished lines and wrinkles.

VITAMIN B = HYDR8 B5 GEL

Medik8’s most powerful hydrating facial serum, helps improve skin’s texture.

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SKINCARE SYNERGY

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Call us for more information on the Medik8 range, and to try some samples today!


FOCUS

snow

BUNNIES PROTECTING CLIENTS' COMPLEXIONS IS OFTEN ASSOCIATED WITH LIBERAL AMOUNTS OF SUN BLOCK DURING SUMMER. BEAUTY PROFESSIONALS KNOW BETTER. ENSURE YOU HAVE EDUCATIONAL MATERIAL ON-HAND FOR YOUR SNOW BUNNIES, AS THE SKI SEASON LIFTS OFF.

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ike a day out on the snow itself, there are two parts of equal importance to advising our bunnies – the day itself (which requires some pre-application of product before venturing out onto the slopes) and the après-ski (French for 'after skiing') prep, which for those who regularly ski, is as important as the quality of the snow itself. Ski holidays are often booked solely around the après-ski facilities if the truth be told - similar to the ‘nineteenth hole’ concept for golfers. At high altitudes, not only are we closer to the sun but the atmosphere is thinner and filters less ultraviolet, putting your clients skin at a far greater risk of damage. We spoke to two skin experts who should know about the effects of a day on the slopes, as their businesses are located in two of the most beautiful parts of the country for skiing. Both said the same when asked what is the most important thing for your clients as the ski season starts. “Sun block!” was the resounding response. Trudi Nicolson of Aspects Salon & Day Spa, Wanaka www.aspectswanakaspa. co.nz says; “The best advice is to make sure that sun block is liberally applied before leaving the house. People often think that they have enough clothes on to block out the sun's damage but this is just not the case. Sun block is imperative as well as a professional antioxidant cream.” Eileen Robb of Bliss Beauty Therapy, Ohakune www.blissbeauty.net.nz 100% agrees. “Skin needs special care in the cooler winter months, so a good

drenching of lip balm and a liberal application of SPF is essential, from the moment our clients get up, till when they leave the slopes for their after-ski social life.” And what of this social life prep then? BB and CC creams are a must as they will keep skin hydrated and even out any redness that may have occurred. The majority of these creams also contain sun block and they are very restorative for the skin. Also, a rich and nourishing hand cream is a great way to shield the hands as the temperature drops and the wind kicks into high gear. Chapped and broken skin on the hands makes for a very unpleasant experience the next day. Encourage your clients to step up mask applications as well – using them as a repairing night cream is a brilliant idea. Finally, both Trudi and Eileen highly recommend a massage as part of the post-ski run as well. This ensures your clients are able to manage each twist and turn of their holiday without any aches and pains!

PRE-SLOPE

APRÈS SKI

Sothys Sunscreen Lotion Face and Body SPF 30

RESULTIME MultiCorrective CC Cream

Fleur de Mer Lip Conditioner

Jane Iredale Hand Drink SPF 15

SUNDÃRI Omega 3 and Mandarin Lip Treatment Joyce Blok Everyday Sun Fitness SPF 15 Susan Posnick Brush-On Block Mineral Sunscreen

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Decléor Hydra-Floral BB Cream


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PROFILE

a beauty-

FULL LIFE ELIZABETH ARDEN PRO INTERNATIONAL TRAINER, SARAH MARQUEZ, SHARES HER SKINCARE TIPS AND BEAUTY FAVOURITES

While we don’t experience extremely harsh weather at home in Houston, Texas, chances are I will be travelling to an area that does! Air travel and sudden climate changes take a toll on my skin, often leaving it dehydrated, so I rely on Elizabeth Arden PRO’s Barrier Repair Complex. It’s a wonderfully silky emulsion designed to enhance skin moisture, replenishing essential nutrients to support the skin’s natural barrier function.

of your skin is undermined continually by accumulation from that exposure. There are three critical “must-have" daily topical skin protection ingredients that provide the most comprehensive needs of skin protection: SPF, antioxidants and DNA enzymes. Elizabeth Arden PRO combines all three of these ingredients in Triple Action Protector, a physical sunscreen, prepared in a hydrating, universally-tinted formulation for all skin types

FAVOURITE MAKEUP LOOK FOR WINTER

MOST LUXURIOUS TREATMENT

Throughout most of the year I stick to a very classic look - a sheer red lip and precisely placed black liquid cat-eye liner. But when winter comes, I love to wear rich berry hues, pale pinks and warm blush tones.

The “Nippon Nirvana” treatment at Ten Thousand Waves, a spa nestled in the mountains of Santa Fe, New Mexico and inspired by the Japanese mountain hot spring resorts. There are beautiful outdoor hot tubs and spa suites hidden amongst junipers and pinions. Pure bliss!

WINTER SKINCARE ESSENTIALS

SIGNATURE FRAGRANCE I wore Chanel fragrances for the longest time and I love anything by Atkinsons of London, but recently I can’t get enough of Irene Neuwirth for Barneys New York. It’s an elegant fragrance featuring a floral bouquet of orange blossom, jasmine and the warmth of vanilla and musk...lovely!

BEST PART OF MY JOB Besides getting to work for Joe Lewis, the U.S-based chemist behind some of the industry's most innovative anti-ageing products, I would say the ability to see the world! You may have heard the quote by Saint Augustine of Hippo: “The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page”. This resonates with me. But it’s the personal connections I’ve made that are most meaningful. This industry is full of smart, strong, capable women who lead and inspire every day. I'm grateful for the women I’ve met who've encouraged and motivated me in my career.

BEST CHILL-OUT VACATIONS SPOTS My husband and I love to travel together. The one place that stands out for us is Oia, Santorini. It's known for its romantic sunsets! The village is situated on top of a cliff and offers a spectacular view of the Aegean sea; the perfect place to disconnect from the world but reconnect with yourself and a loved-one.

MUM'S BEST BEAUTY ADVICE Keep it simple but always wear your moisturizing sunscreen! My mother always had a jar of Oil of Olay with SPF in her beauty cabinet. Now that I’m in the industry she has “graduated” to more cosmeceutical products, but she will always first choose a moisturizing sunscreen. My mom has beautiful skin and very little visible sun damage because she took care of one of the most fundamental needs for skin health – SPF!

TOP SKINCARE TIP

SHEER INDULGENCE PRODUCT

When searching for anti-ageing skincare products that will truly make a difference, look past the marketing hype and ALWAYS ask for the clinical proof! Also, I truly believe that everyone concerned with improving skin health and beauty must be committed to a lifestyle that includes daily protection against sun and environmental exposure. Otherwise, every step you take to improve the appearance

Show Beauty Decadence Hair Fragrance. The bottle itself exudes luxury and has the most gorgeous scent of rose water combined with coconut milk, caramel and almond butter, with a background of Madagascan vanilla, patchouli and soft white musk. It also contains vitamins and oils that strengthen the hair and enhance shine. It’s my all time favorite luxury hair product.

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For use by qualiFied proFessionals only

Eyelash & Eyebrow tint

FOR LONG-LASTING BEAUTY!

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YOUR TOTAL

HAIR & BEAUTY

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ROSETTA STYLING CHAIR Hydraulic Lift

MARCELLA STYLING CHAIR Hydraulic Lift

TOTAL BEAUTY SUPPLIES GREAT PRODUCTS GREAT PEOPLE

161 Central Park Drive, Henderson, Auckland Freephone 0800 180 190

www.tbs.co.nz

/totalbeautysupplies

PEPPI STYLING CHAIR Hydraulic Lift

PERLA STYLING CHAIR Hydraulic Lift

ANTONIA WASH UNIT

ROCCO WASH UNIT

ROMANA WASH UNIT

CARMEN WASH UNIT

IF YOU LOVE ORGANIC INGREDIENTS... YOU’LL LOVE OUR NEW TANNING RANGE

rsliE, wellIngton le El r ou In ow On Sh BranChes and ChriStchurch ALBANY 0508 (09) 443 2861 ELLERSLIE 0508 (09) 525 3315 AVONDALE 0508 (09) 827 1604 HAMILTON 0508 (07) 850 8130 144

TAURANGA 0508 (07) 928 0581 NAPIER 0508 (06) 844 5512 WELLINGTON 0508 (04) 473 3799 CHRISTCHURCH 0508 (03) 379 9998

CALL TODAY 0800 826 669 Email: sunfx@sunfx.co.nz www.sunfx.co.nz

Affinge American Crew Clairol Cloud Nine Dax Wax D:Fl Dancoly Dark and Lovely Denman De Lorenzo Dread Wax Fancifull Forma Wave Fudge GHD Goldwell Handy Foil Hair Extensions

Indola Joico Juuce Keratin Complex KMS Lilash L’Oréal Matrix Nioxin Refectocil Redken Salon Equipment Salon Smart Schwarzkopf Tigi Vita 5 Wahl Wella

0800 HAIRMARKET (0800 424 762)

Fax 06 359 2168 Email hairmarket@clear.net.nz 8 Waldegrave Street PO BOX 9114, Palmerston North

www.hairmarket.co.nz


Salon Furniture & Supplies UPDATE YOUR SALON Stockists of everything a salon needs including… quality salon furniture, electrical equipment, scissors, brushes, combs, capes, towels plus a great selection of professional product brands. 100% NZ owned for over 30 years.

DE LORENZO I SCHWARZKOPF I JOICO I FUDGE I WELLA I DAX I NIOXIN I WAHL I ROUX FANCI-FULL I INDOLA I JEVAL I FAMA I NAK I DANCOLY I MASON PEARSON I MANIC PANIC I SILKY Call or visit our new cash & carry showroom. Now located at 79B Ellice Road, Glenfield, Auckland Phone 09 441 7676 Email lescheveux@xtra.co.nz

Call Free 0800 77 77 89

NZ DISTRIBUTOR OF

We stock salon furniture and most major brands of professional salon products, including Schwarzkopf, Indola, Joico, Fudge, Wella, KMS, DeLorenzo, Wahl, L’Oreal, Matrix, Redken & Nak and more.

Verona Styling Chair

from $299.00

Italian Designed Roma Shampoo Unit All black or white with black seating, fibreglass unit & ceramic basin

from $995.00

Call 0800 10 44 10 or order online at: www.southernsalonsupplies.co.nz Wellington | Christchurch | Dunedin

Innovative Pop Up Salon Foil! Simple as using a box of tissues Cuts your time in ½ & easy to fold Embossed foil non slip, 520 sheets per box 15micron 12.5cm x 28cm IDEA L TIM SAVE E R!!

INTRODUCTORY OFFER Buy 1 box of Pop Up (520 sheets) and get a FREE 200 piece box of eyeglass sleeves on us! $

Total value $31.95 incl NOW ONLY

23.95 incl (that’s a 25% discount)

Contact your nearest stockist AR Distributors - Nelson (03) 547 7707 Progressive Salon Supplies - Christchurch (03) 3799 735 Salon Warehouse - Auckland (09) 555 5730

Gourmet tea suppliers Harney & Sons have your winter service essentials covered. Help clients relax and unwind through chilly winter salon days with a special Harney & Sons moment. Savour rich, warming flavours like ginger, licorice, cinnamon and pumpkin. Design your in-salon menu from over 80 different fine teas at www.harneyteas.co.nz or call (09) 412 2515 to request complimentary samples and discuss a wholesale account today.

Call free 0800 880 499 Euro Salon Supplies Email: info@eurosalonsupplies.co.nz www.eurosalonsupplies.co.nz facebook.com/eurosalonsupplies 145


TREND FOCUS WATCH

RAW

into the season LIZ LAMB EXPLAINS WHY PUMPKINS ARE NOT JUST ALL ABOUT HALLOWEEN

W

inter is here and recipes for warming winter meals like soups and roasts are all around us. Here at Headway, we’ve discovered that collectively we’re big fans of pumpkin. Go figure? Roasted pumpkin salads, pumpkin soup and even pumpkin pie! Pumpkins are surprisingly good for you and I want to share with you the eyesight-assisting, low calorie-containing, and blood pressure-aiding properties of our humble pumpkin. Step aside carrot as the bright orange colour of pumpkin signals the abundance of the eyesight promoting beta-carotene. Beta-carotene is a powerful antioxidant, which can cleverly smother and stop the damaging effects of the harmful free radicals in your body. Beta-carotene is also converted to the active form of vitamin A (retinol – fave skin care ingredient) in your body. Vitamin A plays an important role in your eyesight. It binds to a protein ‘opsin’ in your eyes to form ‘rhodopsion’. When light hits the vitamin A bound to the ‘opsin’ protein (rhodopsin), the vitamin A component changes its shape and detaches from the ‘opsin’ molecule. This change of shape of vitamin A causes a nervous signal from your eye to your brain, which is translated to information about the image. You need the rhodopsin molecule for seeing at night as well as in twilight. Now you know the scientific basis behind your grandmother’s claims that you’d be able to see in the dark after eating carrots (or pumpkin)! Good old Nana was right. Vitamin A is also essential for healthy immune system function and fighting off bacterial infections. Bonus. Pumpkin also has less energy than other common roasted vegetables, like kumara or potato. Pumpkin contains approximately one third of the carbohydrates of kumara or potato, so they are a good addition to the roasting pan. Having lower energy dense foods such as pumpkin will balance out the other, heavier foods on your plate to reduce the total caloric load and prevent overeating. Good news for those who load their plate with roasties on Sundays. Finally, pumpkins contain the essential mineral potassium, in amounts comparable to the hero of potassium, bananas. Potassium is involved in the control of your blood pressure, which is managed through your kidneys. Kidneys control blood pressure by changing the amount of fluid stored in your body. As the amount of fluid increases, your blood pressures increases. Potassium works in partnership with Sodium (or ‘salt’) to pull water from your blood stream into your bladder. Water follows salt, so the more salt in your blood stream, the more water will be drawn into your bladder. When this happens, potassium has a balancing effect by moving in the opposite direction. The ratio of sodium and potassium has to be in equilibrium for this to work efficiently. The Western diet is jam-packed full of salt, so it’s important to keep up your potassium content to keep your kidneys happy. Short version – eat more pumpkin, it’s good for your blood pressure. Bearing all this in mind, it’s obvious that the powerful pumpkin packs a punch. As good as carrot and more effective than bananas, so we’re felling pretty smug about our love of pumpkin right now. Enjoy them this season. Liz Lamb is a BSc/BCom graduate, model and a NZ representative high jumper. She is a keen foodie and baker who is passionate about helping others understand the science behind our healthy food choices. Follow her on instagram @whysohealthy and visit her website www.whysohealthy.com

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DISCOVER THE NEW INNOVATIVE SKINCARE BRAND THAT GIVES VISIBLE RESULTS. Available only at selected skin clinics and medispas

© 2015, Elizabeth Arden Inc

EXCLUSIVELY PROFESSIONAL. CLINICALLY PROVEN. CUTTING-EDGE COSMECEUTICALS. For more information or to become a stockist of Elizabeth Arden PRO contact Self Care Group at: info@selfcaregroup.co.nz or Phone 0800 105 107 147


FOCUS

info@crewdistributors.co.nz 0800 CREW 66 (273 966) 148

Headway Winter Vol38 No2  
Headway Winter Vol38 No2  
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