A Guide To Acquiring Proof Sets Whether an individual is an established numismatic (coin collector) or only starting out, learning about and acquiring proof sets can be an exciting and rewarding endeavor. A proof coin is a form of currency that was produced by the United States Mint to be a step above the rest, and a full collection of denominations from a particular year is known as a set. These coins have additional variation, smoother finishes, and sharper rims when compared with common, regularly used currency. Frosted proof, matte proof and brilliant proof are the three types of proof coins. Several strikes and chemical treatments are used to perform special modifications. Certain sets are more highly sought after due to the added luster and collectible nature of the coins. Before a transaction is made, there are certain things that a buyer must know when they are thinking about purchasing a set. With most coins, and an element of the allure of numismatics and coin dealers, there is a historical component. When determining the value, knowing the techniques employed by the US Mint during the time the coin was stamped is vital information. From 1916 to 1936, the U.S. stopped striking proof coins for the most part and this makes any proof coin from that time period rare and sets are even more uncommon. Once production resumed in 1936, individual coins could be bought and sets were limited to the lowest amount stamped in one denomination. It wasnâ€™t until 1950 that sets had become the only purchase option. Knowing the year is also necessary when knowing how many coins are supposed to be in a set. A dollar coin was included from 1973 to 1981 as an example. Sets were produced with modest errors that added to their value now and again. Coins were produced without mint marks in 1968, 1970, 1975, 1971, 1983, and 1990, therefore a set during this time period is probably worth an extra inspection. Sets are ranked on a grade scale just like other items of worth. One to seventy is the scale, with seventy being perfect quality and needless to say, one is the lowest. An ideal number on the scale is in between 60 and 70. Either it is in mint state and is uncirculated or is hasn't had any wear from being used by the public when it has this score. The number normally has a prefix, the most common being PF, which simply means â€œproof." From a collecting perspective, knowing how sets were packaged throughout the years is extremely important information when determining its expected preservation. Boxes were the preferred method of encasement in the beginning; between 1950 and mid-1955, these were replaced with cellophane wrappings. Though it doesn't affect the coin's value, coins kept in cellophane have been known to experience tarnishing, and there are those who enjoy the appearance. As a result of rising popularity and availability at the time, after 1955 proof sets were stored in soft plastic packets. It is not uncommon for sets to be transported to a more modern protective structure, but a buyer really should be aware of any fingerprints left by handling, since marks can play a part in evaluation. Whether you buy from an established coin dealer or a private party, buying a proof set can be a fun way to own a bit of history, make an investment or add to a hobby. For an important event or a special birthday, they can also make a great commemorative gift. If you want both value and Phil's Coins and Stamps
A Guide To Acquiring Proof Sets sentiment, this is a gift that perfectly symbolizes both. Whether an individual is an established numismatic (coin collector) or only starting out, learning about and acquiring p...
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