Ski Country Magazine 2019

Page 1

SkiCountry WINTER 201 9


Ski areas face


Rocky Mountain



Offering a wide variety of house-made craft beer, excellent food, and great service. New Mexico's highest elevation brewery. Live music most weekends.

Open for lunch and dinner daily Pottery from left: Adam & Santana Martinez of San Ildefonso Pueblo; Margaret Tafoya of Santa Clara Pueblo; Maria Poveka Martinez of San Ildefonso Pueblo. Navajo Weaving by Martha Smith



PUBLISHER/EDITOR Joe Haukebo DESIGN/PRODUCTION/SALES Digerati Design CONTRIBUTING WRITERS John Biscello, Dr. Michele Potter PHOTOGRAPHY Geraint Smith and ski areas COVER Monarch Mountain powder | Casey Day Join the conversation. hawkmediapublishing Visit us at www.Hawk– for more articles, photos, & e-zines HAWK MEDIA PO Box 182 Angel Fire, NM 87710 575 595 0575 | 575 758 4047

HighCountry and SkiCountry Visitor Guides are published by Hawk Media. All rights reserved. Material in this publication may not be reproduced in any form without written permission from the Publisher. 4 Requests for permission should be directed to Hawk Media.





Our Towns


Here There Be Monsters


Winter Calender


Ski The Southwest


Angel Fire, Taos Ski Valley


Sipapu, Pajarito, Ski Apache


Monarch, Red River, Enchanted Forest


Purgatory, Wolf Creek


Ski Areas Face Climate Change


Time To Dine



Welcome… Bienvenidos


ot yet daybreak, the old man steps out of his beat-up truck and a slight breeze tugs at his wild gray hair and beard. He begins unloading fishing gear onto a snow bank. Helped by some grunting and raspy throat noises, the old man packs the ice auger, bucket, tackle, lunch, thermos and rods into a small sled. It is bitter cold and he sweeps his coat sleeve across his dripping nose. The routine never seems to get any easier, and although he’s feeble, he’s still able. Leaving the old truck on shore unlocked, he trudges onto the flat expanse of ice, hands hanging behind him holding a rope as he leans into the walk, sled in tow. He settles into the rhythm of the walk with the crunch of snow beneath his boots, a ritual he performs countless mornings each winter, a ritual he loves no matter how harsh the weather. He plods through the bleak white landscape of the frozen lake, sheets of blowing snow making the ground look like it’s moving. The wind carries the cry of a distant coyote across the ice. Here, at the edge of a singular winter wilderness, the old man must rely on all his senses to help, since his eyes have grown weaker. He can’t take the cold like he once could; years ago he could brave the


weather all day; could fish in raw sub-zero weather dawn to dark. Now he can only last until mid-day, until his shaking hands make it too tough to take. It is a half hour at a slow plod before he stops at a spot he worked yesterday, the fishing slow but steady for trout. Some days, a friend might tag along, but most mornings he goes alone. With the tip of his Sorels, he kicks at a frozen clump of snow, cleaning a spot beside yesterday’s ice hole, marked by traces of fish blood. The spot feels right; you have to feel good about the spot before you drill. He prefers to drill a fresh hole rather than wrestle with reopening an old one. Grabbing the handles of the auger, the old man slowly starts the turn and the bit begins to bite into the ice. He works evenly, without hurry, breathing hard, sucking in the cold air. Muscles begin to loosen up; he likes this part as it always warms him. As he starts to run out of breath, the drill punches through the bottom of the ice and he flushes out the hole a few times. He drops to one knee and dips curved fingers into the water cleaning out more ice shrapnel; a few chunks stick to his fingerless wool gloves. It is dark looking into the hole and there is

no reflection of his face. Otherwise he would have seen the black-gray stubble on his dark-skinned face, yellow-stained teeth, watery eyes and an orange stocking cap pulled over his ears with the front flipped up. It’s a goofy hat, he knows, but he’s had it forever, and it has seen a lot of fish. Besides, who cares? There’s pleasure, even a dignity, in doing a simple task like ice fishing well, even though he knows most folks can’t fathom what he sees braving winter weather for a few fish. He couldn’t care less; ice fishing is hardly a spectator sport. The bitter cold doesn’t bother him yet: his breath puffs white and his face is wet from the sting of windblown snow. At least the winter wind isn’t raging, cutting through him, he thought. Even though he always wears plenty of clothes over his old wool long-johns with the button flap in back, sometimes it gets so cold his skin goes numb and his blood about freezes up. But not today. He feels good; it’s his time away from the frenzied world off the ice. After he’s rigged a weighted black jig on his line and slowly lowered it into the hole, he drags the bucket over, flips it upside down and sits. Then he grinds his stubby fingers into a can of Copenhagen, pulls out a

pinch, and pours a cup of steaming, bitter coffee from the thermos. He sits and stares at the sun lift off the mountain horizon, lighting the snowrimmed lake, and the peaks of the Wheeler Peak range overlooking it all. A fine day. He comes for the fish, sure, but it is also moments like this – communing with a cold, harsh but beautiful winter world – that lures him out. He finds peace here, a contented calm, and so much beauty in the starkness. He loves the stillness, nothing going on, nothing pulling at him except a few fish. His weak eyes leak a little liquid from the blinding reflections of the sun off ice and snow crystals. He has a fierce love of this place. He closes his eyes to reflect on his long-lost wife, on his children, seed scattered to all ends of the earth, on all the stories hidden in the ice, all the history it holds. Then, a slight tug on his line pulls him from his daydream. He watches closely, ready to set the hook, but the rod slams hard to the ice. He stands up and pulls slowly to feel the weight of the fish. “Good size to him, pulling hard, must be hooked good.” The old man knows how to fight a strong fish – don’t horse him, take your Continued on page 30

El Monte Sagrado Taos

Palacio de Marquesa

Eldorado Hotel & Spa

Inn and Spa at Loretto

Hotel Chimayo de Santa Fe

Hotel St. Francis

The Lodge at Santa Fe


Santa Fe

Santa Fe

Santa Fe

Santa Fe


Choose your package and save capitan

apache bowl

Weekday Package

Weekend Package

3 day package for 4

2 night stay, lift tickets for two & more!*

2 night stay, lift tickets for two & more!*

3 night stay, lift tickets for 4 & more!*


$599 +TAXES & FEES

$699 +TAXES & FEES

$1,879 +TAXES & FEES

Sunday-Thursday only November 25, 2018-February 28, 2019

Friday & Saturday or Saturday & Sunday November 30, 2018-March 3, 2019

Thursday-Saturday or Saturday-Monday November 29, 2018-March 4, 2019




*Visit our website for complete package details and how to book your stay today! 575-464-3600 I Alto, NM Located on the Mescalero Apache Reservation Good for Superior Room only. Upgrades are subject to an additional fee. $15 resort fee applies to reservation. Room offers are subject to availability and blackout dates apply. Not available to groups. For reservations: 1-800-545-9011. The food credit will be valid for the days of the packages only.

Historic Hotels The Historic Taos Inn Experience Southwestern charm and history at The Historic Taos Inn in the heart of Taos, New Mexico. Acclaimed by National Geographic Traveler as “One of America’s Great Inns,” and listed on the National and NM Registers of Historic Places. Forty-four rooms and suites, most with Pueblo-style fireplaces. Award-winning Doc Martin’s Restaurant and The Adobe Bar on premises. Happy hour 4-6 Monday-Friday; free live music nightly.

125 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos, NM 575.758.2233

Hotel La Fonda de Taos The oldest hotel in Taos is new again. In the heart of the historic district on Taos Plaza, La Fonda offers 21st Century amenities while preserving its rich Southwestern roots and ambiance. Home to Noula’s Starbucks Coffee Shop and D.H. Lawrence’s “Forbidden Art Collection.” Nineteen rooms, five suites, and our Plaza Penthouse. Friendly, personal service. Walking distance to galleries, museums, shopping, entertainment, and fine dining.

108 South Plaza, Taos, NM 800.833.2211 505.758.2211

Sagebrush Inn & Suites A Taos landmark, Sagebrush Inn opened in 1929 as a 17-room hotel catering to guests traveling by carriage along the New York trade route. Today, the newly restored Sagebrush Inn & Suites offers modern comforts surrounded by historic Southwestern charm. Our iconic hotel features 156 guestrooms and suites, meeting and event space, hot breakfast, on-site dining, full-service bar, fitness center, three hot tubs, and heated pool.

1508 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Taos, NM 575.758.2254


Our Towns It is the life of the crystal, the architect of the flake, the fire of the frost, the soul of the sunbeam. This crisp winter air is full of it. — John Burroughs, Winter Sunshine


n the high-altitude havens and enclaves of northern New Mexico and the southern Rockies, the seasonal marriage between winter air and golden sunshine is almost Greek in its epic complexion. The “light” in this region is halfMuse, half-siren—seducing artists and photographers into paying tribute, inspiring folks to bask and luxuriate in a gold standard that cannot be hoarded or hawked. And the mountain air, shot through with winter—biting, clean, skin-pinkening—is a slow god of countless pinches, reminding you: You are awake and not dreaming. Or perhaps winter in these parts exists in a middle realm between dreaming and waking, a place of inspired lucidity. Perception, after all, is in the mind of the beholder.

TAOS Its slogan could be—Taos: Where Crossroads Meet and give Birth to Lasting Detours. This art-colony ragamuffin is a magnetic beacon for seekers, dreamers and black sheep, while also remaining the sacred mother grounds for its homegrown (Taos Pueblo

is the oldest continuously inhabited community in North America). Yuletide in Taos is the umbrella term for the numerous festivals, ceremonies, arts and music events, and shopping opportunities which give the town its holiday makeover during November and December. Highlights include: The Lighting of Ledoux—where historic Ledoux Street becomes a farolito-graced hotspot for food, communion and merriment (December 1, 5-7 pm), Bonfires on Bent Street (December 8, 4-8 pm), the Las Posadas re-enactments (December 16-24), a classically-tuned evening with the Taos Chamber Music Group’s “Joyeux Noel” (December 16-17 at 5:30 pm), and of course, the hauntingly beautiful Christmas Eve celebration on the Pueblo, which features a Guadalupe-inspired procession, litany of majestic bonfires, and time-defying mystique. High-velocity slopecarving followed by a mineral-enriched soak is one way to enjoy a spell of leisure in the Taos Ski Valley. That is, you can spend the

day enjoying the snowslicked mountain, whether on skis, a snowboard, sled or tube, and afterwards decompress in the restorative springs at Ojo Caliente (about an hour’s drive from TSV). Two other liquidcentered sources of R & R in the Valley: the 23rd annual Brewmasters Festival (December 15), with beersampling and food-tastings from around the region, and the Taos Winter Wine Festival (January 3), which offers over 150 wines from more than thirty different wineries, and culinary delights from dozens of Taos and TSV restaurants.


ANGEL FIRE A circular odyssey of Southwestern beauty and intrigue awaits those who decide to drive the 84-mile Enchanted Circle Scenic Byway, with the resort town of Angel Fire as the ideal starting point. Angel Fire is home to the largest tubing park in the southern Rockies, night skiing, killer parks, sleigh rides, crosscountry, and championship shovel racing. The Vietnam Veterans Memorial State Park—the only state park

Photos by Geraint Smith


in the country dedicated to Vietnam veterans—is one of the monumental pit-stops early in the trip, and when crossing over to Eagle Nest Lake State Park, intrepid anglers can get their Jack London on and try their hand at ice fishing. Not far from Eagle Nest is that boom-or-bust vortex where many a dream went to die—Elizabethtown—New Mexico’s first incorporated village, and prime real estate during the gold rush days of yesteryear.

RED RIVER The “Little Texas” of New Mexico, Red River, takes its winter play seriously, with its ski-base located in the heart of town, and plenty of recreation options both on and around the mountain. The 8th annual Red River Songwriters’ Festival (January 24-26) creates an intimate atmosphere in which to indulge in the Epicurean trinity of food, drink, and music. And the revelry continues in February, New Orleans-style, during “Mardi Gras in the Mountains” (February 28-March 5),

featuring costume parties, bead-tossing, song and dance, Cajun and Creole gourmet, crawfish boil, parades, downhill gator race, and more.

Home to quite an elk population, among other wildlife, Chama is a picturesque place to come across the antlered kings of the forest. It also plays host to one of Northern New Mexico’s most popular winter events, the 45th annual Chama Ski Classic and Winter Fiesta (January 19-21), which features freestyle and cross-country ski races, a snowshoe race, fat tire snowbike race, rookie race, costume contest, ice sculptures, music and lots more. This year the holidaythemed, steam-whistling “Santa Trains” on the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad will depart from Chama (December 8-9) and Antonito (December 15-16).

Ten Christmas Towns in America”—and this frostlovely spirit is exemplified by Purgatory, a mountain resort offering 35,000 snowfleeced acres on which to slide, whoosh, stomp, frolic and make merry. The Durango Art Center’s Winter Solstice Artisans’ Market (November 23-December 22) is a holiday shopping hotspot for handmade, locally-crafted gift options. The Polar Express, and its colorful cast of characters, will once again come to life aboard the Polar Express Train Ride (through January 3), which undertakes a magical trip to the North Pole via the Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad. The 41st annual Snowdown, a weeklong celebration (January 30-Febraury 3) where the dark days of winter are squared against madcap fun, will be donning tights, a mask, and dialogue bubbles for this year’s theme: “A Comic-Con Snowdown.”



Durango is made for winter—it has been ranked one of “The Top

Rio Grande County, the nature-endowed gateway to the San Juan Mountains,


encompasses South Fork, Monte Vista and Del Norte. Whiteout Wonderland could be the nickname for Wolf Creek, located just outside of South Fork, as it is the winter-friendly recipient of the highest amount of snowfall in Colorado, a distinction which has caused many an avid skier to twitch and salivate with anticipation. Del Norte offers adrenaline-boosting plug-ins for outdoor adventure, including Lookout Mountain, Elephant Rocks, and Penitente Canyon. The Monte Vista National Wildlife Refuge provides safe haven for over 200 bird species, and in the winter, short-eared owls, Great Horned owls, Northern harriers, and rough-legged hawks turn the landscape into Raptor Central. Originally from Brooklyn, NY, John Biscello has lived in Taos since 2001. He is the author of the novels Broken Land, A Brooklyn Tale; Raking The Dust; and Nocturne Variations. His debut poetry collection, Arclight, will be released in February 2019. 13

Ride the Sleigh


Scenic and Dinner Sleigh Rides


The best way to experience the magnificent scenery and wildlife in the Enchanted Circle.


Winter Horseback Rides Daily!

call or visit us online &

switch today!

For 75 years, Northern New Mexico Gas Company has been providing safe propane delivery, propane products and propane installation services in northern New Mexico. Call 575.377.3744 or 800.916.2510 and experience The Northern Difference.

Why Choose Northern?

Customer-Centric Company Culture We are here because of you and we work to assure customers receive service and solutions that they are happy with and would reccommend. Join Northern Online Too!



Partnering With YOU To Deliver Efficient Heat

A Long History of Serving New Mexico For nearly 75 years Northern New Mexico Gas Company has been providing propane delivery and service to northern New Mexico.

Licensed and experienced professionals can assist you with all aspects of home heating. From delivery to planning & installation.



Nancy Burch’s


Since 1978

Reservations required • 575-377-6416 • Sleigh Headquarters – Elkhorn Lodge • 3377 Mountain View Blvd. Angel Fire, New Mexico • Wagon ride if weather not optimal for sleigh ride


Simply the best liquor store in NM

Competitive Prices Largest Selection • Friendly Staff Temperature-Controlled Wine Cellar

505.455.2219 34 Cities of Gold Road, Pojoaque, NM 87506 12 miles N. of Santa Fe on Hwy 84-285 OVER 3,500 WINES • 1000 BEER CHOICES 145 SINGLE MALT SCOTCHES • 250 TYPES OF VODKA 325 TEQUILAS • 54 MEZCALS • 180 RUMS

The Family Vacation of a Lifetime… Any Time of Year!

The Riverside Lounge T

& cabins

he Riverside sprawls comfortably over three acres of beautifully landscaped grounds, only 50 feet from the Copper Chairlift. Families love our wonderful playground, lawn games, BBQ area and hot tub. Amenities include telephones, kitchens, fireplaces, satellite TV, DVD players and free wireless internet at very reasonable rates. We now have laundry services, too. Ask about our off-season and Wednesday Free packages!

800.432.9999 575.754.2252 www.RedRiver


Here There Be Monsters


wilight. The sky has begun to softly bruise plum and lavender, with hints of rose. You are walking along the rockencrusted rim of a gorge, peering down into the yawning abyss which speaks the vocabulary of prehistory. The weatherman talked

up, your sense of timelessness is overlaid with terror and awe. The winged creature soaring above you is the size of a cargo truck, and you realize that you have now become one of those people who has seen something— mysterious, inexplicable. There are no perforated,

The “Slide Rock Bolter”

about possible snow, and you can feel the teeth of winter on your skin as you turn up the collar of your coat. You continue walking, feeling as if you are a million miles away from technology and life-as-you-know-it-asa-modern-being, and a giddy sense of liberation courses through you. Suddenly, an enormous shadow passes over you, and when you look 16

own distinctive and palpable mystique. In the immortal words of the Bard as voiced by his haunted prince, Hamlet: “There are more things in heaven and earth, Horatio, than are dreamt of in your philosophy.” Here, in northern New Mexico and the southern Rockies, there

(Vintage drawings courtesy

age-yellowed maps of New Mexico marked in old cursive—Here There Be Monsters—yet the imprints exist in the stories and legends. Paranormal activity and the occult have often been at a premium in this region, while the mythology and folklore of the resident Native tribes and Hispanic population has colored and flavored the area with its

be monsters belonging to talespins, confessions, and the lore of attraction.

DOES THAT COME IN A SIZE 30? Its colossal footprints are the most legendary in all of cryptozoology, while countless sightings of the hairy behemoth most commonly referred to as Bigfoot, Sasquatch, or Yeti

(depending on who you’re talking to) have been fuel for an ever-expanding canon of films, books and studies. The southern San Juan and Sangre de Cristo Mountains, which encompass the San Luis Valley, have been prime spots in the Colorado/ New Mexico region for Bigfoot sightings, according to the BFRO (Bigfoot Research Organization). The Cheyenne, a plains-dwelling tribe who visited the San Luis Valley during the warmer months, would speak of Maxemistas (“big monster” or “big spirit-being”), Bigfootesque in stature and hair growth, except they were said to possess bird-like feet. Other Pueblo tribes have similar stories concerning large, shaggy hominids, each with their own name for the creature. Interestingly, in having a little fun with number-play, there was a seven-day period from December of ’93 to January of ’94, when seven Bigfoot encounters were reported to a Costilla County sheriff, and the sightings all occurred within a seven-mile radius. 777? Coincidence, Bigfoot jackpot, the number of “the beast?” Cue Twilight Zone music.

SOMETHING WINGED THIS WAY COMES Large-scale prehistoric cousins to the vulture, “teratorns,” were said to SKICOUNTRY 2019

have gone extinct around 12,000 years ago. Fossilized remains of these winged wonders—whose wingspans were estimated at about twenty feet—have been found in New Mexico, yet their phenomena have extended from an earthchambered plot of dust and bones to the open skies of “living” legend, with people having reported sightings of monstrously large birds soaring the New Mexican airways. Or, as stated by one man, whose hike in the mountains back in 2007 gave him an eyeful of the unexplainable: “These creatures were so huge they looked like the size of small planes. All of a sudden one of them…dropped off the top of the mountain, came down the front of the mountain and all of these huge wings just spread out…Not a normal bird. Definitely of a giant variety. It makes you feel like it could come over and carry you off if it wanted to.” Could prehistory be repeating itself? Or maybe, the stormy and iconic “Thunderbird,” which features prolifically in Southwestern indigenous lore, manifests in different winged forms to remind us “There are more things in heaven and earth…”

BLOODSUCKERS FROM MARS! Okay, so there’s never been

any reported connection to Mars, but the mythical blood-fiends known as Chupacabra (which translates to “goat-sucker”) have made appearances across many lands and cultures, and in varied forms. The most popular descriptions are that of a reptilian creature, three to four feet in height, with sharp quills running the length of its back and the bounce-ability of a kangaroo, or that of a hairless dog with a protrusive spinal ridge and vampiric fangs. Chupacabra sightings in northern New Mexico have turned these blood-draining predators of livestock into the stuff of high-desert local legend.

MOBY DICK IN THE MOUNTAINS A landslide is a landslide is a landslide… except when it’s the dreaded Slide Rock Bolter. This lesser-known creature, torn from the story-mill of the late 19th and early 20th centuries, was alleged to dwell in the mountains of Colorado. A popular yarn among lumberjacks and miners, one of the earliest records of the Bolter appeared in the 1910 book, Fearsome Creatures of the Lumberwoods, by William T. Cox. A whalelike creature with small eyes and an enormous mouth, the Bolter’s trajectory of terror was a fascinating one: it was said to lie in wait at the tops

another version, she kills her of mountains, its hooked children to be with her lover. tail anchoring it to the No matter the slant of this mountainside; then, when tragic tale, it is La Llorona’s it spotted its prey, usually a restless and inconsolable band of unsuspecting hikers or tourists, the Bolter unhooked its tail and slid down the mountain, avalanche-style, until it reached its “dinner,” which it swallowed whole in its cavernous mouth. There haven’t been any contemporary sightings of ol’ Bolty, but the mysterious “tracks” that turn up every now and again have kept this mountainside The “Bugerbear,” a.k.a. Bigfoot malevolent a after-life, wandering rivers speculative blip on peoples’ and arroyos, in search of her myth-minded radar. children—or replacement HELL HATH NO FURY… children (“Beware La While technically not a Llorona” was many a “monster,” no round-up of parent’s warning to their Southwestern-flavored terror children in trying to keep would be complete without them away from acequias a mention of the mournful and waterways)—that ghost, La Llorona. continues to strike fear and Featured prominently in intrigue into the hearts of the spectral lore of New children and adults. The Mexican, Mexican, and Curse of La Lorona, a soonLatin American cultures, to-be-released horror film, La Llorona’s story has is cinematic proof that various permutations. In one some legends may change version, she is a beautiful mediums, but their spirit woman who is spurned remains rooted in the by her wealthy lover, and timeless power of story. in a fit of grief kills her children, then herself. In — John Biscello 17




Torchlight Parades, Red River, ongoing Saturdays

8 Bonfires on Bent Street, Taos 8-9 Christmas train ride, Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad 14 Opening Day, Angel Fire Resort 14 Ski with a Naturalist, ongoing winter Fridays, Monarch Mountain 14-16 Taos Chamber Music Group concert, Harwood Museum 15 Alumbra de Questa craft market and illumination ceremony 15 Christmas Tree lighting, Taos Ski Valley plaza 15 Headlamp Snowshoe Tour, Enchanted Forest SC Ski Area 15 23rd annual Brewmasters Festival, Taos Ski Valley 15, Jan 6 All Ages Fun Race, Wolf Creek 15-16 Christmas train ride, Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad 16-24 Las Posadas, San Francisco de Asis Church, Ranchos de Taos


Turtle Dance, Taos Pueblo


Polar Bear Plunge Eagle Nest Lake

1-6 Winter Carnival, Angel Fire Resort 4-6 USASA Snowboard Slalom & Giant Slalom Races, Purgatory 5 Skier Responsibility Code with Monarch Mountain Ski Patrol 6 Winter Carnival, Angel Fire 6

Buffalo or Deer Dance, Taos Pueblo

6-10 Junior Freeride, Taos Ski Valley 8 Wolf Creek Forever Young Ski & Snowboard Clinic, ongoing 10 Current Affairs Series, Wolf Creek, ongoing clinics 11 Winter Challenge Race Series, Red River, ongoing weekly 11-13 Femme de Freeride, Taos Ski Valley 12 Taos Chamber Group concert, Harwood Museum, Taos 12 Monarch Mountain, Backcountry Safety Day 12 King of the Hill Terrain Park Competition, Sipapu 12, 26 Camp Robbers Clinics for young kids, Wolf Creek 13 Challenge Series Giant Slalom Race, Wolf Creek 13 Don Diego Slopestyle Competition, Sipapu 14 Ms. Mondays, Wolf Creek, ongoing 14 B-Corp Celebration for protection of local environment, TSV 16 McDonald’s Twilight Nights Race Series, Purgatory 16 United Way Day, Wolf Creek 18, 25 Town Challenge Race Ski/Snowboard Series, Monarch 19 Telluride Mountainfilm on Tour, Angel Fire RV Resort 19 Marshall’s Madness USASA Rail Jam, Sipapu 19 Moonlight Hike & Campfire, Sipapu


19 Race the Face Snowmobile Hill climb, Red River 20 Holiday Festival, Salida Chamber & Monarch Mountain 21 Christmas Lighting of Ledoux, Taos 22 Santa Claus on the Mountain, Purgatory 22, 26 Alpenglow Evening Snowshoe Tours, Purgatory 22-23, 29-30 Holiday Market, TSV Plaza 24-26 Red River Songwriters Festival 24 Sipapu Christmas Eve Party 24 Procession of the Virgin & bonfires, Taos Pueblo 24 Torchlight parade & fireworks, all ski areas 24-25 Ski or Ride with Santa, most ski areas

19 Scenic Snowcat tour, Purgatory Resort 19 Open Moonlight Skiing & Snowshoeing, XC Ski Area 19 Alpenglow Evening Snowshoe Tour, Purgatory 20 MLK Jr. Race Day, Wolf Creek 22 Tuesday Turns, Wolf Creek ski/snowboard clinics, ongoing 22-27 6th Annual Not Forgotten Appreciation Week, TSV 26 UNM Intel Ultimate Ski & Snowboard Challenge, AF Resort 26-27 US Ski Mountaineering Nationals TSV 27 Wolf Creek Fun Race 27 USASA Slopestyle Competition, Purgatory 27 Feb 3 and ongoing, Local Appreciation Days, Wolf Creek 31- Feb 3 32nd annual Taos Ski Valley Winter Wine Festival

25 Christmas Luminaria Tour, Enchanted Forest XC


25 Matachines or Deer Dance, Taos Pueblo

1-2 UNM Invitational Slalom Races, Red River Ski Area

TBA Dummy Gelunde and Torchlight Parade, Ski Apache

1, 8, 15, 22 Monarch Mountain, Town Challenge Race Series

31 New Year’s Eve Party, Red River Community House


31 Torchlight parade & fireworks, all ski areas

2, 9 Camp Robbers Clinics for young kids, Wolf Creek

31 New Year’s Eve Night Rail Jam, Purgatory


31 New Years Eve Snowcat Dinner, Purgatory 31 New Year’s Celebration, Taos Plaza

USASA Ski & Snowboard Jedi Challenge, AF Resort Super Bowl Celebrations, most ski areas Continued on page 30 SKICOUNTRY 2019




Durango •


• Pagosa Springs



Chama •

Ski the Southwest




South Fork


Red River •

a a



• Eagle Nest


Angel • Fire • Taos




ou can ride almost anywhere in the

Los Alamos •

world. But nowhere in the world do you get our magical mix of

Southwestern sun and snow, culture and





• Santa Fe

cuisine, wildlife and wilderness, art and history. The landscape is stunning – from high alpine terrain above treeline to the Rio Grande Gorge, a huge rip in the earth.

Our ski mountains rip – chutes, cliffs,

bowls, cruisers – and in terrain parks – rails, boxes, rainbows, banks. Treks into the backcountry are beautiful but potentially dangerous. Be prepared.

And at day’s end, when your thighs are

screaming, slip into a hot tub or pound a big, honking green chile cheeseburger.

Nothing like this anywhere.



• Albuquerque


• Ruidoso



ANGEL FIRE RESORT 855-923-7387

A top year-round mountain resort

snow guns to enhance one of the

destination in New Mexico, Angel

longest and most popular trails,

Fire Resort offers plenty of family

Headin’ Home. Fifth Graders Ski

outdoor recreation activities

Free; and Kids 6 and under and

including skiing, snowboarding,

Seniors 75 and over Ski Free. For

tubing, sleigh rides, golf, mountain

families with kids, the Resort

biking, zipline, tennis, fishing,

continues improvements to the

RVing, and hiking.

full-service Children’s Ski School

and day-care, and offers The

The Resort this year

introduced the Teacher Season

Parenting Pass, Pre-Ski/Pre-Ride

Pass, a heavily discounted season

Programs, Lil’ Poppers Snowboard

ski pass for teachers nationwide,

Program, and Lil’ Chile Ski

as a thank-you for all they do


for kids. Angel Fire Resort will

keep the mountain open an extra

of the Powder Alliance, which

seven days in March, or as long

allows all season pass holders

as the powder continues. Still

3 days of free lift tickets at 17

New Mexico’s only night skiing

partner resorts, including Ski

resort, Angel Fire now offers

Apache and Monarch Mountain.

Sunset Private Lessons under the

stars for new skiers and boarders.

Annual World Shovel-Racing

Upgraded snowmaking equipment

Championships at the Resort

this season includes new efficient

February 8-9, 2019.

Angel Fire Resort is a member

Don’t forget the 40th

TAOS SKI VALLEY You don’t have to be an expert to ski Taos, but there is no better place to become one. Taos Ski Valley is investing $8 million to make our Strawberry Hill beginner’s area even more userfriendly. The investment includes a new lift on Strawberry Hill and a complete redesign of our Children’s Center. A new gondola will transport people to and from the Children’s Center and the base of the Resort Center. Also, flight service is available to Taos from Dallas-Love Field and Austin International Airports, starting Dec. 20. (See more on TSV on page 27)

Visit the website for more

on stats, the mountain and terrain 877-965-8269

park, ski passes and specials, lessons, and lodging.



SIPAPU SKI RESORT Sipapu Ski and Summer Resort is

trails; and year-round alpine

home to New Mexico’s longest ski

coaster ride. Expanded parking

season, featuring over 40 trails, six

and enhanced snowmaking round

lifts and four terrain parks, as well

out the improvement package.

as slopeside lodging, full-service ski shop, ski school, and the


Riverside Café. This winter, kids

Pajarito Mountain Ski Area

age 10 and younger receive a free Power Kids ski pass.

New this season is Sipapu’s

first quad lift, part of a massive $10 million multi-mountain capital campaign, plus three new high-speed lifts and two magic carpets. The main lift has been relocated and will be a “chondola,” or gondola / chairlift combined. Long-range improvements include 1,200 acres added for 51 new runs, plus 17 new acres of glade terrain, totaling 95 new trails; a new mountaintop restaurant; new year-round tubing areas; a disc golf course; zipline; mountain bike and hiking

near Los Alamos this winter installed a brand new Magic Carpet conveyor lift to service the Beginners area. Pajarito continues to improve its snowmaking infrastructure, with enhancements to the holding pond and the snowmelt collection system. Pajarito continues to manage the ski area’s hazard trees 800-587-2240

that were damaged by the Las Conchas fires while improving future fire mitigation and forest 505-662-5725

re-vegetation. This summer, Pajarito Mountain offers a new mountain bike pass at both Pajarito and Purgatory.

SKI APACHE As the country’s southernmost ski

to all partner resorts, exclusive

area, Ski Apache offers the best

perks and deals, and are available

warm-weather powder skiing in

for adults, kids, teens, and

the world with snowmaking on


33% of the mountain. The slopes

offer a mix of wide beginner

Spirit Bar offers a wonderful

slopes, tough bump runs, a huge

venue from which to kick back

bowl, nice cruising runs and a

after a day of riding the slopes.

terrain park with jumps, tubes

And The Inn of the Mountain

and rails.

Gods Resort and Casino and

the mountain village of Ruidoso

Check out special stay and

Ski Apache’s Main Lodge

ski packages on the website.

offer more than any visitor could

Regular season passes offer access

experience in a single visit. 575-464-3600



Monarch Mountain Ski Area takes

pride in being independently

on a fully guided backcountry

owned and operated, giving the

Monarch Cat Skiing experience,

freedom to offer visitors the best,

on 1,635 acres of diverse expert

most authentic Colorado ski and

terrain with wide open bowls,

snowboard experience possible.

steep chutes, and glades.

With seven lifts, and loads

Take a ride on the wild side

Mirkwood Basin is a hike-to-

of groomed trails for every

ski sidecountry offering 130 acres

skier level, Monarch is ready

of double-black diamond extreme

to be explored, including uphill


backcounty passes for the most

advanced and adventurous.

boarding tours on beginner runs

will be led by a trained naturalist

Tubing and terrain parks are

This year, free skiing/

super-relaxed and low-key, with

and are scheduled all winter.

no lines, lots of options to play

The on-mountain lift-accessed

with, and great snow to land on.

tours highlight Monarch’s forest

Parks include fun-boxes, rails,

ecology, wildlife in the winter, the

hips, and hits. Get up to speed

recreational history of Monarch

with Monarch’s Ski + School =

Pass, and the Monarch USFS

Skool programs.


RED RIVER With over 55 years of operation

on family adventure.

as a family-owned business,

Red River Ski & Summer Area

most powerful snowmaking

offers a unique skiing and family

system in the state, with snow-

experience surrounded by the

making capability covering a

Southern Rockies of New Mexico,

whopping 85% of the mountain,

focusing on sublime winter

and they continue to invest in

recreation and winter sports.

improving snowmaking efficiency.

Whether you’re looking for wide

open groomers, park laps, or steep

passes, deals, packages, specials,

powder-filled trees, you’ll find it

and events. Kids 3 and under

at Red River Ski Area. Minimal

and seniors 70 and over ski free.

lift lines and fresh powder stashes

Discounts for active duty, reserve,

days after a storm are almost

and retired military including

always guaranteed. Fall in love

direct dependents.

Red River Ski Area has the

See the website for tickets,

with small town charm that’s big 575-754-2223 575-754-6112 22

ENCHANTED FOREST XC Open seven days a week 9 to 4:30,

skiing. You’ll also find 15 km

Enchanted Forest Cross Country

devoted to snowshoes as well as 5

Ski area near Red River, NM,

km of trails to ski with your dog.

offers 33 km of 12–16 ft. of wide-

Enjoy access to miles and miles of

groomed, signed, and patrolled

backcountry trails.

trails for both classic and freestyle


PURGATORY Purgatory Resort’s thrilling new

the rugged San Juan Mountains.

4,000-foot long Inferno Mountain

Other winter activities include dog

Coaster just debuted this season,

sledding, tubing, cross country

and will be open year-round.

skiing, snowshoeing, horse-drawn

Terrain improvements include

sleigh rides, backcountry skiing,

two new glade skiing trails for

and snowmobiling. Purgatory

beginners and intermediate skiers.

Snowcat Adventures runs snowcat

Also new on the mountain is The

skiing operations.

Waffle Cabin, serving authentic

Belgian waffles and hot cocoa.

unlimited access to over 3,400

acres at six resorts in Colorado,

Purgatory is recognized as

The Power Pass now includes

a top value, year-round resort.

Utah, New Mexico, and Arizona,

Snow enthusiasts enjoy the winter

including Purgatory, Sipapu, and

wonderland with 101 trails, seven

Pajarito, and kids age 10 and

terrain parks and 1,605 skiable

younger receive a free Power Kids

acres. With 12 chairlifts and

ski pass.

rarely any lines, it’s simple to zip around the mountain and enjoy the spectacular scenery amidst 970-247-9000

WOLF CREEK As usual, Wolf Creek Ski Area this

Pitcher, past owner of Wolf Creek

year started the ski season first,

Ski Area.

with their second-earliest opening

in Wolf Creek history on October

its first year anniversary of

13 after a massive 30-inch storm.

going solar. Always a leader in

sustainable practices, the ski area

Family owned and operated,

Wolf Creek is celebrating

Wolf Creek focuses on providing

purchases renewable energy from

a low-density skiing experience

the Penitente Solar Project in the

with continually-improved lifts,

San Luis Valley, uses biodegradable

infrastructure, and amenities,

oils in machinery, and maintains

specialized clinics for varied

water-free restrooms.

groups, and free fun races.

clinics are offered this year. Also,

The most exciting

Two new ski and snowboard

improvement this season is a

the Powder Room project is

new addition to the Wolf Creek

moving forward, offering season

lift system, the Charity Jane

pass holders deluxe private

Express, a high-speed, detachable

areas with lockers, dryers, and

quad chairlift, making 55 acres

restrooms. The Colorado Dept.

of previously under-utilized

of Transportation spent over $9

terrain available. The Charity Jane

million on improvements to the

Express is a salute to Charity Jane

highway leading to Wolf Creek. 970-264-5639


urgent medical care

Lesa Fraker, MD PhD FACEP

Owner/Medical Director Board Certified Emergency Medicine Physician

care you can count on No appointment necessary 7 days a week All ages welcome Care for most illnesses & injuries Colds and coughs Sprains and broken bones X-rays, prescription medications & lab tests on site Oxygen & IV Therapies for Altitude Sickness Most insurances accepted including Medicare, Blue Cross Blue Shield, Aetna, & Humana

red river

200A Pioneer Road 575.754.1773

angel fire

FA-1 Ski Patrol Building 575.377.1805 The ONLY certified Urgent Care Clinics in the Enchanted Circle 24


FIRESIDE CABINS Open year-round. Weeknight winter specials starting at $99 for one BR; or stay two nights and get the third night free. (Specials exclude holidays and special events; some restrictions apply.) Call about winter specials through May 1st. Modern, deluxe one- and two- bedroom fully-equipped cabins with room to roam on ten acres along the San Juan River. On the east side of Pagosa, close to Hot Springs, Wolf Creek Ski Area, and National Forest X-country ski trails. Private river access and fishing (catch & release) on our property. Individual living area with gas fireplace, bedroom/s, kitchen, bathroom. Covered porches with grills. Hot tub on property. Pet friendly.

888.264.9204 970.264.9204 1600 E. Hwy 160, Pagosa Springs, CO

Alpine Lodges MOUNT PRINCETON HOT SPRINGS RESORT Find these hot springs located in Nathrop, Colorado, between the towns of Buena Vista and Salida. Mt. Princeton Hot Springs Resort is ideal for family vacations, romantic getaways, mountain weddings, or corporate events. Enjoy a one-day hot springs experience or relax with an overnight stay at this unique familyfriendly, historic Colorado hot springs resort. Book your lodging today and enjoy VIP access to our Spa & Club. Make the most of your vacation by treating yourself to a wonderful spa service. Be sure to take advantage of the 100% natural snow at Monarch Mountain.

719.395.2447 15870 County Road 162, Nathrop, CO

EL PUEBLO LODGE Come stay at the edge of town, at the edge of everything! Southwest charm with early Taos architecture. Complimentary wi-fi & DirecTV. Heated, seasonal pool, year-round hot tub. Full hot breakfast bar each morning, fresh-baked cookies each afternoon. Pet-friendly. Three blocks from historic Taos Plaza; 18 miles from Taos Ski Valley. Taos Pueblo and Taos Mountain Casino two miles north. See our website for specials and packages.

800.433.9612 575.758.8700 412 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos, NM

WHEELER PEAK LODGE State-of-the-art Hostel in Angel Fire, with condos, hostel, and ski shop all in one convenient location. Grand views of the Wheeler Peak range. Three luxury condos, 44 hostel beds, 2 large hot tubs, game room, pool table, card table, kitchen, fireplaces. Sleeps up to 72 people. Brand new ski shop features new K2 Rental Equipment & Retail. Open year-round, the Lodge is also available for weddings and groups.

575.376.9373 30 S. Angel Fire Rd, Angel Fire, NM 25

Ski Areas Face Climate Change



hange often seems a slow thing in the southern Rockies. Take, for example, our reverence for the ancient community of Taos Pueblo, which has seemingly stood still (its inner core remains unchanged) for a thousand years, making it the oldest continually inhabited community in the country. Truly, adaptation is survival. On the other hand, time can feel speeded up, and the effect of climate change on our mountains is one such moment. It’s time to take the long view. In the last decade, we feel cheated out of winter by about a month each year. Snowboarders and skiers feel this in our blood and bones.


Having taught skiing for more than 25 years, last year was most challenging. Let me rephrase that. It was the most challenging one for me since the advent of snowmaking, something that resorts are putting more money into as a form of adaptation. Snowmaking is becoming more efficient, but it is also more extensive. Therefore last year was not the best, but it certainly wasn’t the worst, either. We made the most of it. In a lot of ways, it was my best season ever, though it required extra shots of creativity. What does it mean to be more creative?

Recreationalists bond with their beloved Mother Nature but also contribute to human impacts, especially if you think about energy-guzzling, lift-served, snowmakingdependent sports. Cantankerous nature writer Edward Abbey offered this perspective: “Be but a half hearted-crusader,” he wrote. He didn’t mean be half-assed, he meant be a bad ass. He meant get real, use real science, and get real organized. Keep your passion. Find sublime joy and even stupid fun. Don’t just cry in your beer; raise a pint to celebrate the jawdropping beauty all around. Make that a local beer in a nondisposable container. Gotta start somewhere. And that’s just what many in the southern Rockies are doing, oftentimes guided by industry organizations like the National Ski Area Association (NSAA) which help members track their greenhouse gasses (GHGs) because the major heattrapping gas increased by human activity is Carbon Dioxide (CO2), with atmospheric concentrations of CO2 increasing at about 0.5 percent a year. They recognize that so-called environmental issues are always stubbornly complex and absolutely integrated (think: culture, economy, ecology). So NSAA members look at more than

just direct impacts. The good news is that recreational consumers care about such issues and are putting pressure on the places where they pay to play. Aspen and Taos, for example, posted goals to lower carbon by 18 and 20 percent respectively by 2020 (Vail’s report card was something you’d never show your mother). Sometimes creativity is simplicity: Monarch still boasts “pure” snow, moving parking lot snow onto the base area. Interestingly, the legal quotas for water use remain as always, though some take issue with snowmaking, not wanting the streams to be used for snow. Others rejoice at this “water banking” system, because frozen water saved higher up means more water melting down to farmers when they need it most. Protect our Winters (POW) highlights a study with the Natural Resources Defense Council to highlight winter sports tourism’s economic impacts—millions of skier/boarder visits added $11.3 billion in economic value in the 2015–2016 season, for example. The quantification argument is a tool to counteract the influence of resource extraction—mineral, oil, and gas which are, after all, huge income producers. Ski resorts, of course, are almost always within Forest

Service boundaries. POW works politically towards its goals, too: 1. An economywide price on carbon; 2. A transition to a clean-energy economy (solar); and 3. The use of innovative transit solutions to minimize emissions. In terms of clean energy, one need look no further than Wolf Creek, since it’s the first resort ever to use 100% renewable energy, thanks to a new 250-acre solar farm in partnership with San Luis Rural Family Electric. One of the last family-run ski hills left, its snow cats run on biodegradable grape seed oil. It has new zero discharge, water free restrooms, too. Buying offsets is another tool in the toolbox. The new TaosJet service to Austin and Dallas amps up the game, yet TSV can still meet carbon quotas because their involvement with a Texas project lowers carbon there. Still, most goals must be met locally. Biofuel use, recycling, employee transportation, and more efficient building lighting systems are the new normal at many resorts from Red River, Angel Fire, Taos, Wolf Creek, Sipapu, Purgatory, to Monarch. In the spirit of using lemons to make lemonade, Monarch Mountain’s local ski company, Meier Skis, is using a beetle kill infestation to advantage. The downed wood is transformed into

their famously hip ecofriendly, artfully handmade skis. They don’t just localsource their toys, they happily local-source their beer, and proudly participate in the National Forest Fund. Taos has won a number of awards after conservationist Louis Bacon bought the area in 2014, and has thus spent more than 200 million, with another 100 or so to go. The vision has translated into things like the elimination of plastics, part of the Taos Verde initiative, which also works with the local community. On the USSA website, its 20 percent reduction of carbon by 2020 goal even outdoes Grade-A Aspen-Snowmass (competition is a good thing). The new Blake Hotel in Taos Ski Valley conforms to Silver LEED standards (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design, the most widely used green building rating system), with geothermal systems and hyper efficient heating/ cooling systems. There are five electric charging stations, a new food desiccator that turns food waste into mountain re-vegetation, and it is the only ski area to get B-Corp Standing. (B-Corp is a business organization that holds its members to high standards of environmental and social justice sustainability.) They also partner locally with the Rio Grande Water Fund, and

their forest thinning practices offer relative stability after more than a century of dangerous fuel-loading due, in part, to antiquated noburn philosophies.


o my eye, there’s nothing more beautiful on this green earth than snow. Dawn Boulware, TSV Human Resources Manager, has skied here since she was three. “It’s not just what’s right, it’s protecting what we’re deeply connected to,” she says. One afternoon during our drought-flattened season last year, the sky turned violet-grey and it began to snow. We were transformed into kids again, with cold happy faces. Ha ha! There we were again, turning back the clock and making turn after turn as if, Of course! We own the whole damn mountain! Swaddled in that new/old perfect white universe, my inner voice piped up: Don’t just pray for snow, that thing that you worship. Work for it. And then, never ever miss the chance to go out and dance in it too.

Michele Potter, PhD, is a longtime Taos ski instructor and trail runner who has also taught many UNM classes, including Environment, Science, and Technology. Her photos, travel blogs and essays (including many from past issues of this magazine) can be found at



Time to Dine TAOS ACEQ – 480 State Road 150, Arroyo Seco, NM 87514. 575.776.0900. Fresh, local, fun dining at its finest. Family-owned, farm-totable restaurant in Arroyo Seco Plaza. We serve our own interpretation of comfort food, utilizing the best in local, wild, and farm fresh ingredients. Contemporary takes on old classics, house-made specialties, craveable desserts. Chicken & Waffle SunThurs, Fresh Fish & Chips Friday, Prime Rib Fri-Sat. Reservations highly recommended. or visit COMMON FIRE – 88 State Road 150, next to Quail Ridge Inn. 505-803-9113. Localsfriendly, kids-friendly, just-plain-friendly. Bring an appetite. Beautiful, wood-fired clay oven pumps out flatbreads and braises in a world of styles made with New Mexico’s best meats, grains, vegetables and fruit. Fresh, local, organic, delicious. Great patio; killer view. All-craft, alldraught beer and about 100 wines. Never reservations; show up when you’re ready. Noon to 9, every day of the week. We’re here for you. DOC MARTIN’S RESTAURANT – 1/2 block N of Taos Plaza in the Historic Taos Inn, 575-758-1977. Fresh, casual dining in a historic setting. Winner of Wine Spectator’s “Best Of Award Of Excellence” for 30 consecutive years. Innovative Regional New American Cuisine using the freshest local ingredients, specializing in organic vegetables, meats and fish, including favorites like bison and trout. Homemade desserts. Lunch, dinner, weekend brunch. Reservations recommended. FARMHOUSE CAFÉ and BAKERY – Three miles north of Taos Plaza at Overland Ranch. 575-758-LOVE (5683). Farm-totable, local organic cuisine. Legendary grass-fed burger, green chile chicken stew,


daily quiche. House-made soups, salads and a variety of vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free options. Incredible assortment of artisan breads, croissants, tarts, muffins, cheesecakes, cookies and more. Specialty coffees and fresh organic grab-and-go items. Open 8 am-4:30 pm daily. Sunday Brunch. On-site Farm Store. Ask about our dinner hours. Menu: THE GORGE BAR and GRILL – 103 East Taos Plaza. 575-758-8866. Stop by and try our juicy burgers, handshaken margaritas, or fresh oysters – something for everyone! Enjoy The Best Happy Hour in Taos while sitting on our patio overlooking the Taos Plaza. Happy hour: M-F, 3-5:30 pm. Check out our wine bar and retail shop below The Gorge: PARCHT BOTTLESHOP + BITES. 575-758-1994. A cozy place to discover unique wines + quality craft beer + handpicked artisanal cheese & charcuterie + locally roasted coffee. Explore the things that excite us while you taste + shop + unwind. and GUADALAJARA GRILL – Two locations in Taos: Southside – 1384 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Taos: 575-751-0063. Northside – 822 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, El Prado: 575737-0816. “Our secret sauce makes the difference!” Authentic Mexican food in New Mexico. Seafood, Chile Rellenos, Azteca Quesadilla, Camarones a la Diabla, Ceviche and so much more. Beer, Wine, Agave Margaritas. Voted “Best Of Taos” 2015: Best Mexican Food, Best Fast Food. Open 10:30 am to 9 pm, 7 days a week. Full menu online: MICHAEL'S KITCHEN COFFEE SHOP & BAKERY – 304C North Pueblo Rd, Taos. 575-758-4178. A legendary Taos icon, Michael’s has been in business since 1974 serving authentic northern New Mexico cuisine and classic Southwestern and American-style dishes. Famous for excellent New Mexico green or red chile dishes and for fast service in a family-

friendly atmosphere. Favorite entrées include Indian Taco, Chile Rellenos, Stuffed Sopapillas, Belly-Buster Burger, and buildit-yourself Combination plate. Sandwiches, salads, chops, desserts. On-site bakery with everything from doughnuts, bear claws, buns, and bread to pies, rolls, eclairs, and cream puffs, all baked fresh daily. NEW HOURS: Monday-Sunday 7 am to 2:30 pm. Daily $7.95 Lunch Special from 11 am to 2 pm Monday-Friday. RICKY’S – Located 2 1/2 blocks south of Taos Plaza at 312 Paseo del Pueblo Sur. 575-758-1156. A locals’ favorite. Breakfast, lunch and dinner specials daily. Great New Mexican and American dishes at familyoriented prices. Breakfast enchiladas and the meat-lover’s Bruno Omelette. Glutenfree and vegetarian chiles. Burgers made with fresh local beef daily. Kid’s menu. 80% of our dishes available vegetarian. Dine in or take out. Open 7 days at 7 am, closing daily at 8 pm except for Mondays, closing at 2 pm. SABROSO RESTAURANT & BAR – 470 State Hwy. 150, Arroyo Seco, NM. 575-7763333. An American fine dining restaurant on the road to Taos Ski Valley. Sabroso, which means delicious, is housed in a historic 150-year-old adobe in the tiny village of Arroyo Seco. Famous for wood-grilled steaks, fully-stocked bar, amazing wine cellar. Patio dining in summer with outside bar and covered tables. Fabulous handsqueezed Margaritas; local musicians in the cozy lounge. Book your upcoming event in our breathtaking plum orchard. Happy hour 4–6 pm, dinner 4:30 ‘til close. 10% OFF with valid ski pass. SALT + WINE – In the historic El Torreon Hacienda, 1017 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, El Prado, just north of Taos. 575-7587077. Complex dishes in an upscale setting. Supremely local, seasonal menu with varied and delicious entrées. Over 200 fine wines in an eclectic and growing list. Reservations recommended.


red river BRETT’S BISTRO – At Lifts West, 201 W. Main Street in Red River. 575-754-9959. Serving the best steaks, seafood and Rocky Mountain trout for over 35 years. Daily lunch special until 4 pm: Burger, fries, and a beer for just $9.95. Cold beer and fine wines. Kids’ menu. Like us on Facebook. Open daily 11 am–9 pm. RED RIVER BREWING COMPANY – On Main Street one block from the slopes. 575-754-4422. Open for lunch and dinner daily. Come try something new in Red River: Offering a wide variety of housemade craft beers, excellent food, and great service. Red River’s only brewery and a full service restaurant, too! Live music most weekends. Family-friendly. New Mexico’s highest elevation brewery! Voted New Mexico Brewery of the Year! SUNDANCE – High Street at Copper King. 575-754-2971. Same great food, same great service. Celebrating our 45th year. Steaks, salads, excellent Mexican food. Great sopaipillas! Specials include shrimp fajitas and quesadillas. Frozen wine Margaritas. Reservations welcome. Call for to-go orders. Open nightly 5 pm.

ANGEL FIRE ANGEL FIRED PIZZA – Located on the second floor of the Mountain View Mall (next to the Lowe’s Valley Market). 575377-2774. We serve specialty pizzas, baked pastas, subs, calzones and salads. Our fun, relaxed atmosphere has great views of the mountain. Wide selection of handcrafted beers and fine wines. Many gluten-free options. Dine-in or carry-out. Open lunch and dinner, Tuesday–Sunday 11 am–9 pm. Happy Hour daily 3-6.

EL JEFE – Located just steps from the Chile Express Chairlift at Angel Fire Resort. 575-377-4410. El Jefe offers a Fresh Mex menu featuring tacos, fajitas, and enchiladas complemented by a huge selection of beers, tequilas and fine wines. Stop by and see what the friendly staff at El Jefe has to offer you today! Open 7 days a week all winter 11 am–9 pm. ELEMENTS at THE COUNTRY CLUB – Located on the upper level of the Angel Fire Country Club and open to the public year-round. 575-377-3055. Enjoy unobstructed Southern Rocky Mountain views while your taste buds delight in world-class cuisine. Featuring a full bar, an award-winning wine list, private dining rooms and group event spaces. Bar and lounge open Tuesday-Saturday 4–9 pm. Extended hours during peak periods. LEGENDS GRILL – Located on the second floor of The Lodge at Angel Fire Resort. 575-377-4201. A great place for the whole family. Proudly serving Wagyu beef burgers, sandwiches, pizzas, salads and more. Great selection of craft beers on tap. Sports on the big screens! Open daily 4–9 pm. PIZZA STOP – Located one block from the slopes, Village Center #1, North Angel Fire Road. 575-377-6340. Angel Fire’s oldest family restaurant features all kinds of pizzas, sandwiches, spaghetti, garlic rolls and more. Open Monday–Saturday 11 am-1 pm and 4:30 ‘til closing (?). Open Sunday 4:30 to closing. Closed Tuesdays. In April 2019, we'll celebrate 30 years of business in Angel Fire. Thanks for the past 29 years!

It All Happens

Under Our Rf Lodging, Dining, & Live Music Nightly

��.����.... | 575.758.2233




3 Superbowl Race, Wolf Creek

Angel Fire


3, 10 School Program Family Day, Wolf Creek



8 Chamber Days at Monarch



Eagle Nest


8-9 World Championship Shovel Races, AF Resort 9

Snowshoe Tour, Enchanted Forest XC Ski Area


Ski Bike Rally, Sipapu

Welcome, continued from page 6

Pagosa Springs 800-252-2204 Red River


10, 24 Fun Race Wolf Creek



16 Alpenglow Evening Snowshoe Tour, Purgatory



16 Night Rail Jam, Purgatory

Santa Fe


16 COSMIC Race the Divide, Monarch Mountain

South Fork


Taos County


Taos Pueblo


10 USASA Rail Jam Competition Series, Purgatory

16-18 USASA Halfpipe Competition, Purgatory 16-18 February Fun Fest, Sipapu 17 Presidents’ Day Ski Race, Wolf Creek 21-24 5th Annual Military Winterfest, Angel Fire Resort 23 Snowcat Dining Excursion, Purgatory

Dates are subject to change. Check with local chambers and visitor centers for updated calendar information.

23 6th Annual Lloyd Bolander Memorial Day, Sipapu 23 Shred the Love, Breast Cancer benefit, TSV


23 Scenic Snowcat tour, Purgatory Resort

23 Red River Rampage Slopestyle 23 Monarch Mountain Terrain Park Competition 23 Just Desserts Eat & Ski, Enchanted Forest XC Ski Area 24 Slalom & Giant Slalom, Red River 24 College Day, Wolf Creek 24 IFSA Snowboard Competition, Monarch

28-March 5 Mardi Gras in the Mountains, Red River

MARCH 2019

1-5 Mardi Gras in Angel Fire 2

USASA Rail Jam, AF Resort


USASA Liberation Emancipation Slopestyle, Angel Fire Resort


Kids’ Glowstick Parade & Fireworks, Red River

3, 31 School Program Familiy Days, Wolf Creek 8-17 Spring Break Country Fest, Angel Fire Resort 9

Snowshoe Tour, Enchanted Forest XC Ski Area

9, 16 Alpenglow Evening Snowshoe Tour, Purgatory 9-10 Hawaiian Days, Sipapu 9-23 Beach Weeks, Red River 11, 15, 18, 22 Scavenger Hunt, Red River 16 16th Annual Cardboard Derby, Sipapu 23 15th Annual Pond Skim Contest, Sipapu 23 Scenic Snowcat Tour, Purgatory Resort 24 Closing Day and Pond Skim, Red River

time, keep the drag right, work him slow. Each time the fish nears the hole, out he’d run, making the old man howl with laughter, almost cheering for the fish. It seemed forever, but finally the jaws of the fish poke up into the hole. The old man leans low, his face close to the hole, fingers ready to grab under the gills and haul him out, but he won’t come up. The two stare face to face, each worn out from the fight, locked in a strange stare-down. He continues to stare, transfixed, seeing all the magic and wildness and wonder in its eyes. The old man knows he has him now. With one final jerk on the rod, the fish shoots up out of the hole, throws his head, slaps the old man in the face and falls back into the water. The hook jerks free and sling-shots into the cheek of the old man. The old man jumps to his feet, setting the hook deeper, making him howl and hopping mad. He flails his arms, kicks snow, curses and hops around. On a far shore, a carload of sightseers is parked by the lake. They watch in disbelief as the raging old lunatic dances on the ice, wondering in what strange place they have landed. Welcome to the Southern Rockies. You don’t need to venture out on a frozen lake. But who knows, you might learn a new dance. — Joe Haukebo, Publisher