Ski Country Magazine 2013

Page 1


Winter 2013

Angel Fire Chama Durango Pagosa Springs Taos Taos Ski Valley Red River Sipapu Ski Apache South Fork Wolf Creek






575.377.6612 ski reservation hotline: 575.377.6559

angel fire’s top shop near the resort hotel



Taos Lodging


Our Towns


Disney Shoots Lone Ranger


Ski The Southwest


Taos Ski Valley, Angel Fire Resort


Red River, Enchanted Forest XC


Ski Apache, Sipapu


Purgatory at DMR, Wolf Creek


Durango – Ski Town


Hot Springs and Cold Spots


Blasting Into the Backcountry




Calendar of Events





Publisher/Editor Design/Production

Joe Haukebo Digerati Design

Advertising Sales

Jess Heald

Contributing Writers John Biscello, Michael Johnstone, Michele Potter Photography Sven Brunso, Geraint Smith, Scott D.W. Smith Cover photo

Courtesy of Scott D.W. Smith / Durango Mountain Resort

Contents photo

Geraint Smith

HighCountry and SkiCountry Visitor Guides are published by Hawk Media. All rights reserved. Material in this publication may not be reproduced in any form without written permission from the Publisher. Requests for permission should be directed to: Hawk Media PO Box 182 Angel Fire, NM 87710 575 595 0575 | 575 758 4047 Scan this code! Or visit us at for more articles, photos & e-zines


angel fire O

more than a mountain

a village a vacation a destination a dream a home 8

ut of breath, a younger cousin of mine burst into her parents’ motel room. “What’s the matter? What’s the matter?” they asked. “The pool… is full of cousins,” she said. A family reunion years ago. And as nothing is cooler than cousins, she was overwhelmed seeing so many cousins all at once. All of us, when we were young, complained to our parents that we didn’t see our cousins – and there were tons of them – enough. And to parents who often preached about the importance of family, we knew they were easy targets: we were just bucking for a trip. Sometimes, it paid off. Now, most of us grown up and parents ourselves, we hear the same thing. But the logistics are even more sketchy. Cousins we occasionally see at weddings and funerals are scattered everywhere, settled into their own busy lives. In our tribe there are all kinds of cousins. They come in all shape and sizes: skinny and fat, brainiacs and meatheads, funny and quiet, energetic and not so much. But there’s a similarity between us all. With billions of people on the planet, it’s a little scary to look out and see some of yourself in others, and notice some of them in you; their actions and antics can look a little too familiar. Still, all of us love cousin time. “You can’t hurt steel,” one of my favorites used to say when I’d see him and sock him in the arm. We were boys, rough and tough, not huggers, unless maybe when we were wrestling. Cousins were always full of bad ideas, dumb dares, even dumber double dares. But they were always good for a laugh, an adventure – trouble waiting to happen. Our parents would roll their eyes – we gave them plenty of opportunities to practice – and wonder how something so good SKICOUNTRY 2013


to skicountry

dining shopping sledding tubing

(family) could get so quickly out of hand. Trouble followed us or we followed trouble – to our parents, same difference. None of us were rotten kids; we just had a healthy appetite for mischief. It was more a case of spontaneous combustion than calculated planning by the kids. It would start out innocently enough when you’re small – jumping on the bed, running around naked in the neighbor’s yard, finding stashed Christmas gifts early, and unwrapping them all to make sure everyone was getting the right present. But then evolution would kick in. DNA would grab you by the ear and say, “Is that all you got?” It wasn’t. Dumb stuff was always encouraged by cousins; the dumber the better. So we’d plant a coffee can over lit firecrackers and sit on it because it felt like you were getting kicked in the butt. Or hold world burping championships (700 in a row was the record). We loved working with cheese – sticking limburger on the manifold of the honeymoon car of a cousin getting married or dropping goat cheese into the mouth of a snoring sister. Food fights were as common as pillow fights. Jumping off the roof onto a trampoline was usually good for an injury. But we thought we were bullet proof; getting wounded was just part of the gig. Accidents ran rampant, bones were broken, kindred blood was spilled. We thought of it as learning about our limits; our parents thought of it as testing theirs. The only rule in the unwritten cousin code of conduct was don’t tattle. If you snitch on another cousin, you’re dead meat. You might as well just go ahead and eat a handful of worms, ‘cause they’re going to make you do it anyway. As we got older, and motors started coming into the picture, our parents’ nerves

got thinner and thinner. Riding Mopeds with no brakes, sinking boats in thunderstorms, jumping anything on motorcycles – we lived for the moment. That part of our brain which warns of possible consequences was totally underdeveloped. Two of my cousins not yet old enough to drive decided they should get some practice in. So when their parents went out for the evening, they each jumped in a car and steered slowly, and crookedly, in opposite directions – only to meet head-on on the other side of the block. And there was the cousin who climbed in his dad’s sports car, bumped the shift into neutral and coasted down their steep driveway, across the road, up the neighbor’s yard… and into their picture windows. Nice. His standing in the cousin community went way up. Our parents must have been obsessed with geography, because standard questions in the wake of one of our escapades were “What in the world were you thinking?” or “How on earth did you come up with that?” Even if you had a good answer, like “I don’t know, Mom, sometimes your brain just works against you,” it didn’t get you too far. So you paid your penance, did your time, all the while thinking it unfair, because it wasn’t your idea to have kids and stuff happens when cousins are around; it’s their bloodline too, what do you expect? And every once in a while, if you did something really stupendously stupid, we could render our parents speechless. That was the ultimate. You’d do hard time: chores forever. But sooner or later you’d bounce back. You can’t keep a good cousin down. Here’s hoping you bring your cousins to the Southwest; there’s nothing like quality family time.

— Joe Haukebo, Publisher

fishing snowmobile sleigh ride snowshoe cross country downhill …or just relax 575-377-6555 866-668-7787

Kachina Lodge in Taos and Meetings Center


ocated 4 blocks from the historic Taos Plaza, shops, galleries and museums. Our full-service hotel has it all! We include a full hot breakfast. We have a leisure bar/lounge with pool tables, video games, and coffee shop. Southwestern dining in our restaurant. Outdoor seasonally heated pool, hot tub, and free wi-fi in all areas. Nightly Indian dances MayOctober. We are near the Taos Casino and Taos Pueblo. Affordable prices that can accommodate any budget. Please call now! You’ll like our friendly service staff.

800.522.4462 575.758.2275 Email:

Rio Hondo Condominiums


wo, three and four bedroom, two bath condos. All have fullyequipped kitchens, living rooms with a wood or gas fireplace, and dining room areas with views out to the back deck or balcony, most of which overlook the Hondo River against a beautiful Rocky Mountain backdrop. We have the largest and nicest outdoor hot tub on the mountain and a dry sauna to soak and steam under the stars after hiking mountain trails in summer or a long day of skiing or snowboarding in winter. All our condos have DISH Satellite TV, free wireless internet, and the best staff on the mountain! Call now or visit our website to plan your perfect vacation in Taos Ski Valley! Summer schedule is flexible.

575.776.2646 800.461.8263 PHOTO: GERAINT SMITH


El Pueblo Lodge

Best location for best value in town


The Historic Taos Inn

One of America’s Great Inns

l Pueblo Lodge combines Southwest charm with early Taos architecture. All of our guest rooms have complimentary WI-FI and HBO, and many have fireplaces. New Serta® beds, all-new pillows and down comforters. We offer a Continental Breakfast each morning and we have a heated, seasonal pool and year-round hot tub for your enjoyment. Fresh baked cookies each afternoon. Pet-friendly rooms are available. New 40inch flat screen TVs. Three blocks from the historic Taos Plaza and 18 miles from Taos Ski Valley. Taos Pueblo and Taos Mountain Casino are just 2 miles north. Visit our website for information on specials and packages.


575.758.8700 800.433.9612


xperience Southwestern charm and history at The Historic Taos Inn located in the heart of Taos’ historic district. Acclaimed by National Geographic Traveler as “One of America’s Great Inns,” and listed on the National and New Mexico Registers of Historic Places. Choose from 44 unique rooms and suites, most with Pueblo-style fireplaces. Award-winning Doc Martin’s Restaurant (“a legendary restaurant...” – Bon Appetit), and The Adobe Bar (“The social center of Taos...” – Travel and Leisure) on the premises. Great bistro menu, Happy Hour Monday-Friday 4-6 pm. Complimentary live music every night. See our website for current specials on accommodations!





ou have arrived. Sure, there were several detours and a few wrong turns, and your landing wasn’t exactly what you’d call smooth; but your space cruiser has touched down safely upon a craggy plot of earth. You emerge from your space cruiser, all three of your eyes alight with curiosity, as you scan your surroundings: majestic trees bundled in snow; a clear and shallow stream gurgling in monotone; and in the immediate distance, a powder-capped mountain that reminds you of a sleeping giant stretched supine across the spacious landscape. You adjust your oxygenator, then breathe in deeply: the air is sharp, crisp, cleanly spiked. You stand there, transfixed, recalling the words of your brother which resonate deeply in your twin-hearts: I was lucky to have crash-landed where I did. It was a region full of charm, tradition, natural beauty,

and a palpable mystique. Brother my brother, when you are old enough to fly your own spacecruiser, you must go and experience this place for yourself. Now, the winter of 20122013, you have made it, and all we can say is, whether you’re a visitor from far far away, or from the nearer provinces of Dallas, Chicago or New York, northern New Mexico and the southern Rockies remain the alternative to alternatives.

Postcards from the edge I once read a description of angels that characterized them as fierce and sweet. In this respect, Taos can lay claim to true angel-dom. With Taos Mountain reigning as the geological matriarch, and Taos Pueblo (one of the oldest continuously inhabited communities in North America) remaining the area’s tried-and-true “soul,” Taos has been home to countless generations of Spanish families, and continues to draw a radical mix of “black sheep,” urban refugees, artists and thrill-seekers. Ruggedness of living and attitude runs parallel to generosity of spirit and acceptance. A descent into the Gorge, which is cleaved by the Rio Grande River, provides a first-hand glimpse into pre-history and awe-inspiring beauty. Back on “ground level,” there

are a number of celebrations that mark winter-time in Taos: The Lighting of Ledoux (December 8), transforms historic Ledoux Street into a pedestrian hot-spot, with shops and businesses offering food and drink, and bonfires, farolitos and luminarias warming and lighting the way. Las Posadas (December 16-24), the Spanish tradition of reenacting the story of Joseph and Mary’s nine-night search for lodging, takes place outside the world-renowned Ranchos Church. Christmas Eve at Taos Pueblo means a dazzling interplay of shadow and light, as large bonfires dance and rage, rifle-fire salutes take place on the adobe rooftops, and the Procession of the Virgin binds it all together. Fifteen miles northeast of Taos, Taos Ski Valley, one of the last family-owned ski resorts in North America, remains a top-flight winter playground with over 1,290 acres of terrain. The ski and snowboard season opens on Thanksgiving Continued on page 15



32km Machine Groomed Trails 15km Snowshoe Trails 5km Trails for Dogs

Day Lodge • Full Rental Shop • Snack Bar XC Skiwear & Supplies Christmas Luminaria Tour Moonlight Ski Tours Headlamp Snowshoe Tours

Bobcat Pass, Red River, NM



Lifts West C ON D OM I N I U M




800.221.1859 575.754 .2778



575-754-2366 Ext. 1




he Riverside sprawls comfortably over three acres of beautifully landscaped grounds, only 50 feet from the Copper Chairlift. Families love our wonderful playground, lawn games, BBQ area and hot tub. Amenities include telephones, kitchens, fireplaces, satellite TV, DVD players and free wireless internet at very reasonable rates. We now have laundry services, too. Ask about our off-season and Wednesday Free packages!

800.432.9999 575.754.2252 14

Visit our website for

Satellite TV Free Wireless Internet Non-Smoking Rooms Avail. Conference Rooms Souvenir Shops & Café

The Family Vacation of a Lifetime… Any Time of Year!


promoting Red River.

Rides Hourly or Daily, Year-Round Breakfast or Dinner • Overnights Horse Drawn Wagons & Sleigh Rides

r Roadrunner Tours Ltds 575-377-6416

Elk Horn Lodge 575-377-2811 SKICOUNTRY 2013

Day, Thursday through Friday to start, then seven days a week beginning December 15. Taos Ski Valley’s beloved brew-haha – the 17th Annual Brew Master’s Festival (December 22) – promises an evening of mug shots and sure hops.

A modern classic In order to be irreplaceable, one must always be different. – Coco Chanel Perhaps Miss Chanel’s dictum explains the distinctive appeal of Santa Fe, “The City Different.” Priding itself on its unique mix of the traditional and the modern, the nation’s oldest capital continues to be one of the top tourist destinations in the U.S. Cross-cultural fusion in the world of food and delicacies is the theme of the Museum of International Folk Art’s new exhibition—New World Cuisine: The Histories of Chocolate, Maté y Mas (December 9-January 4). Another “fusion” event is Christmas at the Palace (December 7), as Native, Spanish and Anglo traditions are woven together to form a tapestry of song and storytelling. The beloved new kid on the block—the Second Annual Winter Fiesta (January 27-February 5)—is a ten-day event showcasing a treasure-trove of art, music, cuisine and shopping. If you want to behold the divine in motion, nearby Pueblos— Picuris, Nambe, Ohkay

Owingeh, Santa Clara—hold their ceremonial dances and celebrations on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day.

Enchantment times two Two of the resort towns— Angel Fire and Red River, which are part of the 110-mile loop known as the Enchanted Circle (also including Taos, Eagle Nest, and Questa) — flaunt laid-back charm and winter-friendly dispositions. Named after the flame-throwing sunsets which transform the mountain peaks into pinnacles of eye-catching beauty, Angel Fire is rated as one of the top family ski areas in the Southern Rockies. To zip … or not to zip? Tube … or not tube? These are questions you can ask yourself as you weigh your pastime options, which include the only zipline in the state, the Polar Coaster (the biggest tubing park in the Southern Rockies), skiing (day and night); snowboarding, sleighing, snowblading, horseback riding, ice fishing and more. If you happen to be in the area February 8-10, you’ll have the unique option of planting your fanny in a steel shovel and shuttling high-speed down the mountain to compete in the Angel Fire Shovel Race Championships. Speaking of shovels, back in the day, they, along with pick-axes, were tools of the

trade for prospectors who did their ambitious digging in the gold-mining town of Red River. Nowadays, Silverado, Gold Rush and Lucky Strike refer to the dynamic ski runs that grace the mountain. The ski base is accorded royal treatment, located right in the center of town, and starting on December 31, most Saturday nights will feature torchlight parades and fireworks. Country western legend Michael Martin Murphey is beloved in a town known for its Texas-tinted flair, and he will be performing two special shows at the Motherlode Saloon: Cowboy Christmas Show (December 28-30) and Cowboy New Year’s Eve Ball (December 31).

Favorable elements Nestled within the sprawling San Juan National Forest, and surrounded by the majestic San Juan Mountains, is the mineral-rich oasis known as Pagosa Springs. “Pagoash” is the Southwestern Ute word for “healing waters,” and a soak in the springs means tonic for mind, muscles and spirit. If you want to take to the trails in winter-inspired fashion, cross country skiing, snowshoeing and skate skiing is the way to do it. Reservoir Hill, Pagosa Springs Golf Course, West Fork Nordic Trails, and Coyote Hill Nordic Loops feature groomed trails, free of charge. In Durango, purgatory is a preferred destination and/or

state of existence. The 10,822 foot high ski area Purgatory at Durango Mountain Resort, along with the 8,800 foot Hesperus Ski area, boasts 35,000 acres of mountain terrain on which skiers and snowboarders can make their mark. And when you want to sit back, relax and become a passenger, hitch a ride on the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, which will be offering a Polar Express sight-seeing trip (November 19-December 28). One of Colorado’s newest towns, and a growing tourist and recreation area, South Fork marks the beginning of the Silver Thread National Scenic Byway. This historic route follows the snake-like Rio Grande to its headwaters in the San Juan Mountains. Amidst nearly two million acres of national forest, South Fork’s winter agenda includes horseback riding, ice fishing, Nordic and downhill skiing, hunting, hiking, snowmobiling and more. —John Biscello resides in Taos, NM, and is the author of Broken Land: A Brooklyn Tale, and Freeze Tag.


“THE LONE RANGER” – Johnny Depp and Armie Hammer. ©Disney Enterprises, Inc. & Jerry Bruckheimer Inc.


ur fascination with movies begins when we are young, and for most never completely disappears. They transport us, they awe us, they inspire us and they linger somewhere in our subconscious, much after the final credits have faded. With the dramatic landscapes and seemingly unending abundance of light and sky, filmmakers have flocked to New Mexico, just as painters and photographers have. Recent special effects driven hits such as Transformers (2007), Thor (2011) and The Avengers (2012) have brought much publicity to the state as a cinematographer’s dream. The origins of the region’s filmmaking, though, were much humbler. Generally considered as the first “movie” filmed in the American West, Indian Day School was made by none other than Thomas A. Edison in 1898, when New Mexico was still a territory. The short soundless clip depicts a group of school children in a Pueblo16

style schoolhouse located at Isleta Pueblo, just south of Albuquerque. New Mexico’s untamed and majestic vistas paired with the brave souls who inhabited these wild lands, became the underlying theme for early filmmakers. The famed outlaw

movie making history. Billy the Kid (1930) was shot in Gallup; The Left-Handed Gun (1958) was filmed in Santa Fe with Paul Newman taking the lead, and finally Young Guns was shot in Cerrillos in 1988 with Emilio Estevez playing The Kid, this time filmed in full color.

Nicholson contained scenes from Taos, and was said to be a generational touchstone. Other generations were touched by the likes of Red Dawn (1984) filmed primarily in Las Vegas and the controversial and violent road trip epic Natural Born Killers (1994) with its infamous wedding scene filmed on the Rio Grand Gorge Bridge near Taos. New Mexico movies truly run the gamut in both genre and quality. Critically acclaimed films such as 21 Grams (2003), No Country for Old Men (2007), and True Grit (2010) continue to impress worldwide audiences; while MacGruber (2010) was but a dud. Certain movies simply needed to be made locally, such as The Milagro Beanfield War (1988), filmed in the quintessential Northern New Mexican community of Truchas. And occasionally there is a selection from one of Hollywood’s most feared

“THE LONE RANGER” – Johnny Depp as Tonto. ©Disney Enterprises, Inc. & Jerry Bruckheimer Inc.

William Henry McCarty Jr., known also as Billy the Kid, would prove to be a perfect subject. The previously unknown gunman gained legitimate notoriety when New Mexico Governor Lew Wallace put a price on his head; the rest was the stuff of legends as well as

With hundreds of movies filmed in New Mexico, the Western theme has not been replaced, but enhanced and expanded and now encompasses nearly all genres. The counterculture motorcycle epic Easy Rider (1969) starring Peter Fonda, Dennis Hopper and Jack

categories – an outstanding book made into a rather poor movie; All the Pretty Horses (2000) nailed that one. The latest movie to be filmed in New Mexico, as well as Colorado, Utah and California is The Lone Ranger. The Disney production stars Armie Hammer SKICOUNTRY 2013

as the Lone Ranger. He is known primarily for his portrayal of both Winklevoss twins in David Fincher’s film The Social Network (2010) which chronicled the creation of Facebook. Hammer is overshadowed by one of modern film’s most successful cinematic trio: actor Johnny Depp, producer Jerry Bruckheimer and director Gore Verbinski. Restrained only by a gargantuan $250 million budget and a rumored release date of June 2013, the phrase “summer blockbuster” comes to mind. Gregor “Gore” Verbinski started his film career with music videos of punk rockers before directing The Mexican (2001), The Ring (2002) and Rango (2011). He also directed the three Pirates of the Caribbean films. Jerry Bruckheimer is undeniably one of the most successful film producers of all time; his first big hit was the 1983 romantic drama Flashdance. He made it successfully through the 80s with Beverly Hills Cop (1984) and Top Gun (1986); then survived the next decade with Bad Boys (1995), The Rock (1986), Con Air (1997), Enemy of the State (1998) and Armageddon (1998), before dabbling in television and producing the CSI: Crime Scene Investigation dramas and their spinoffs. TV did not slow Bruckheimer down as he continued to produce blockbusters such as Remember the Titans (2000), Gone in 60 Seconds (2000) Black Hawk Down (2001) and Pearl Harbor (2001) before producing The Pirates of the Caribbean films. John Christopher “Johnny” Depp II may be the most recognizable actor of his

disney shoots LONE RANGER

“THE LONE RANGER” – Photo: Peter Mountain. ©Disney Enterprises, Inc. & Jerry Bruckheimer Inc.

generation. After working in television on the hit 80s series 21 Jump Street, he took several secondary roles in Nightmare on Elm Street (1984) and Platoon (1986) before starring in Tim Burton’s Edward Scissorhands (1990). His extensive filmography is staggering and includes What’s Eating Gilbert Grape (1993), Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas (1998), Blow (2001), and Charlie and the Chocolate Factory (2005), and many, many others. He stars as Captain Jack Sparrow in The Pirates of the Caribbean films. Depp will now portray Tonto, the Lone Ranger’s Native American sidekick in the upcoming film. Depp was recently adopted by LeDonna Harris, a member of the Comanche Nation during a ceremony in Albuquerque.

He was given the Comanche name of “Mah Woo May,” which means shapes shifter and considers himself to be part Native American. The small mountain community of Angel Fire was stunned for the month of August 2012 as hundreds of staff and tons of equipment set up camp to film scenes for The Lone Ranger. As far as Beatlemania was a real phenomenon and Bieber Fever exists, the Depp Effect transformed rational golfers, bikers and fishermen into awestruck and obsessed fans. The familiar small talk at the post office no longer centered around the monsoon rains and the geese on hole #9, but on the filming of The Lone Ranger. The locals became experts on all things Depp, and Johnny Depp sightings were as common as

seeing marauding prairie dogs evading truck tires. “My cousin said she saw Johnny Depp buying cigs at the Mini Mart last night.” “No way, it must have been his stunt double. I hear Johnny Depp doesn’t smoke.” “You are just plain crazy, Johnny Depp doesn’t have a double … Johnny Depp does ALL his own stunts.” The Lone Ranger was a fictional former Texas Ranger, who wore a mask to disguise his identity and would fight injustice with his companion Tonto in the American West. Whether this revival can be parleyed into cinematic money maker on the other hand, is up to the modern moviegoer to decide. Michael Johnstone lives and writes in Angel Fire. 17



Skis & Snowboards Rentals & Sales Winter Apparel Online Reservations


48 North Angel Fire Rd. Angel Fire, NM


Call 1-800-545-9011 or visit

Real Estate

Stan Samuels, Qualifying Broker

Slopeside Condos… Ski-In, Ski-Out


*Offer code: SEASON. Free offers must be used consecutively with original booking. Tax and resort fee extra. Rain checks are not allowed. Upgrades are available for an additional charge. Not available to groups or attendees. One offer per visit. May not be combined with other offers. Must be 21 or over to reserve room. No pets allowed. Management reserves all rights.

Luxury Mountain Homes • Condos • Cabins Vacation Rentals & Sales NM 434 & Halo Pines Terrace, Angel Fire, NM 575.377.6651 cell 575.447.6295 18


kids love Fun.

parents love free. • 2 0 M I L E S S O U T H O F TA O S •

Our philosophy is to be the most family-friendly resort in the Rockies, and we cater to every budget by offering FREE lift tickets, FREE lessons for first-time skiers and snowboarders, FREE lodging* and more.


WWW.SIPAPUNM.COM 800-587-2240

last to close * Available on select dates. See


Durango •

• South Fork • Pagosa Springs




Chama •


• Eagle Nest





Angel • Fire

• Taos

ou can ride almost anywhere in the world. But nowhere in the world do you get our magical mix

of Southwestern sun and snow, culture and cuisine, wildlife and wilderness, art and history. The landscape


is stunning – from high alpine terrain above treeline to a huge rip in the earth. Our ski mountains rip – chutes, cliffs, bowls, cruisers, and in terrain parks – rails, boxes, rainbows, banks. Treks into the backcountry are beautiful and boss.


Outside our quaint mountain towns you’ll discover fresh pockets of adventure and feel this winter completely, utterly alive.

Santa Fe •

And at day’s end, when your thighs are screaming, slip into a hot tub or pound a big, honking green chile cheeseburger. Nothing like it anywhere. Scan individual QR codes with your Smartphone for information about each ski area. Map shows approximate locations. Distances are not to scale.

• Albuquerque


• Ruidoso




TAOS SKI VALLEY Always terrific terrain, a monster rep for gnarly steeps and chutes, from hard-core skiers and new riders too, Taos Ski Valley is continuing with its ten-year master plan to build more facilities, lifts and carve new runs. A big focus this year is making the mountain and facilities more user-friendly to families and folks just starting out. New this year is the Pioneer beginner lift, ideal for first-timers, and the expanded tubing terrain on Strawberry Hill. And of course you can still find that holy grail of epic runs by hiking to hidden stashes a la the West Basin, never a shortage of freeride excitement. TSV’s Ernie Blake Snowsport School is still world-class, the terrain park is deluxe, and a shuttle runs daily from the Albuquerque airport. And TSV continues its commitment to keeping it green with mountain-wide recycling and energy conservation. Check out

ANGEL FIRE RESORT Back by popular demand,

arm band locators for real

Angel Fire’s way-fun zipline,

time tracking and for check-

the nation’s highest el-

ing out stats online later.

evation zip, returns for the

Hone up on skills with ski

winter, zippers flying 20

and board classes. Come

stories high. Just another

evening, terrain park rides

notch in Angel Fire’s belt,

and snow tubing, torchlight

joining downhill riding, cool

parades too. The Nordic

terrain parks, cross country

Center, at the awesome

and downhill skiing, tubing,

Country Club, now has 17

sleigh rides, snowmobiles,

km of groomed trails for visi-

snowshoeing. On the moun-

tors and high altitude athletic

tain, C-4, an out-of-bounds

training, skaters or classic

black diamond 15 minutes

style, and snowshoers, even

out, is also back by popular

a sledding hill. Also moon-

demand. And kids in ski

light, nature and gourmet

school this year get GPS

tours. Events online: 800-633-7463

the interactive trail map online. 866-968-7386 22


RED RIVER SKI AREA This place just keeps adding cool stuff. Last year – more snowmaking, live cams, chalet improvements, better terrain park action. This year – chalet upgrades, new rental gear, e-commerce website, snow coach dinner tours, new snow cat and more snow guns. Skiers and riders this year can buy tickets from the e-commerce website, print out the barcode and give it to the ski techs to scan and get you geared up. Or check out the 24-hour ticket kiosks. Last year’s evening snowmobile tours are upgrading to heated snow coach rides to the Tip Restaurant for dinner. Ski and snowboard programs are available for kids and adults. After riding, there’s tubing, evening rail jams and torchlight parades.

ENCHANTED FOREST XC Getting on the night trail is

the freestylers. Snowshoe?

easy stuff at New mexico’s

Old growth forests, aspen

oldest full-service cross-

groves, wildlife – a cool

country ski and snowshoe

nature trek. Warm up with

area, Enchanted Forest, a

a snack at the hut where

few miles east of Red River.

you can rent the stuff you

Cross Country? Over 33

need. Group and individual

km (600 acres) of prime

lessons. Open Nov-March

forest groomed 12 foot wide

9 am-4:30 pm. Got a dog?

tracks for traditional skiing

Bring ‘em on. Five km

and a wide skate lane for

of trails are dog-friendly. Need a night? How about a mountain yurt? Midweek is easier to book. Events on the web: 800-966-9381 575-754-6112

Events on the web: 575-754-2233


SIPAPU RESORT Northern New Mexico’s oldest ski resort – turning 60 last year – Sipapu started over 10 years ago a plan to carve out great tree terrain. Winding down the mountain,

SKI APACHE Mescalero, New Mexico’s

plenty of programs for the

Ski Apache – the country’s

family – kids and adults,

southernmost ski resort –

even mixtures of the two

offers bumps, bowls, cruis-

with the popular Mom And

ers, a terrain park and the

Me and Dad And Me pro-

only slopeside gondola in

grams. Or you can kick it on

the state. Touted as the

a trikke or rip down the

best warm-weather powder

tubing hill. Boasting over

capital in North America, Ski

300 days of sunshine each

Apache sprawls out under

year. You can even take

the 12,000-plus foot peak

a break and hit the slot

of Sierra Blanca. The Snow

machines slopeside in The

Sport Learning Center has

Lodge. Events online: 575-464-3600

intertwined with groomed cruisers, glade skiing is getting bigger and better. These days, 11 of the resort’s 41 trails are glade runs off Lift 4, close to Sipapu’s peck of 9,255 feet. Check out Wormwood or down mountain Chopos Trees or Indecision. President’s Day weekend, Sipapu sculpts out of snow and ice its snow castle playground – two stories high, tunnels, slides, stairs, even oldtimers chase kids around the castle. With an average of over 300 days of sunshine, it’s trademark Southwest sun skiing. 800-587-2240






Known each year for the

full-service bar, opens on the

most snow in Colorado, last

top level of Raven’s Nest, a

year Wolf Creek kicked it off

cool glass-lined restaurant

with a 46-inch storm open-

serving pizza at the top of

ing its earliest ever, October

the Raven lift. Also new this

8 – a great start ending with

year kick it at the Conti-

close to 400 inches. And it’s

nental espresso bar, left of

always magical riding. When

Treasure chairlift. Group and

you get this kind of pow,

private lessons for riders

For this winter season,

safety is numero uno. Ava-

of all levels and ages. Free

Mountain Resort is a unique

Durango Mountain Resort

lanche control and reduc-

parking and free shuttles.

blend of roller-coaster

has teamed up with iconic

tion is always a key focus;

And like they’ve done for

benches and headwalls,

ski manufacturer, Rossignol,

this year two more Gazex

years, 100 percent of its

steep tree skiing trails and

to provide break-through

exploders, one in Horseshoe

energy comes from a wind

Purgatory at Durango

wide-open cruisers with

technology to skiers. The

Bowl, one on Knife Ridge

power source, winter

stunning views. In 2008,

Rossignol Experience

– have been added, along

and summer.

Durango Mountain Resort

Center provides all levels

with a new Piston Bully 400

began a 4-year span of

of skiers, from beginner to

Cat. Raven’s Roost, a new

unprecedented growth in

advanced, with the latest

the resort’s history, adding

technology in skis from the

Purgatory Lodge, a $50

Experience line.

million investment and new

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anchor to the base village.

Over the past few years,

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Purgatory expanded expert terrain by 35% with new steep, gladed-tree skiing on the front- and back-side, more grooming equipment and enhanced snowmaking.


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veraging 260 inches of snow annually, Purgatory is known for consistent, dry powder from frequent storms, which are followed by sunny, bluebird days, creating perfect conditions for pure alpine nirvana. Purgatory features 1,360 acres of skiable terrain, 88 trails, 10 lifts, five terrain parks and a vertical drop of 2,029 feet. Purgatory at Durango Mountain Resort is located in the rugged San Juan Mountains in southwestern Colorado, and 25 miles north of historic downtown Durango. Known as a top, familyfriendly resort, Purgatory at Durango Mountain Resort offers terrain for all skiing


and riding abilities as well as a variety of activities for all ages, allowing families to spend quality time together. From scenic horse-drawn sleigh rides right from the base area, to the Snow Coaster Tubing Hill, guided snowshoeing tours, Nordic skiing, to snowmobiling and ice climbing, there’s plenty to do. In the base village, Purgy’s Restaurant offers a special kids menu as well as Creekside Italian Kitchen, which also provides a special child play area and features kid-friendly movies during the holiday season. Purgatory Lodge, a $50 million investment and new anchor to the base village, opened in 2008, offering luxury ski in/ski out accommodations, private club and game room, day spa, fitness center, outdoor heated pool, and fine-dining restaurant. Over the past few years, Purgatory expanded expert terrain by 35% with new steep, gladed-tree skiing on the frontand back-side, added high-angle grooming equipment, enhanced snowmaking abilities and initiated brush clearing from the slopes, making for a better early season ski experience. Purgatory also built new terrain parks, constructing bigger features including a half pipe.

For the 2012/2013 winter season, Durango Mountain Resort has teamed up with iconic ski manufacturer, Rossignol, to provide break-through technology to skiers. The Rossignol Experience Center provides all levels of skiers, from beginner to advanced, with the latest technology in skis from the Experience line. The Purgatory Ski School has also been trained by Rossignol to incorporate the Experience technology into their lesson programs, thereby minimizing the learning curve and getting skiers out enjoying the entire mountain quicker than ever. Also located at Durango Mountain Resort is the United States’ largest snowcat operator, the San Juan Skiing Company, which taps into 35,000 acres of incredible backcountry skiing and riding. Durango Mountain Resort is the ideal basecamp for experiencing all that Southwestern Colorado has to offer, including a vibrant and friendly mountain town with more restaurants per capita than San Francisco, four local craft breweries, galleries, shops and boutiques, museums and more. Steeped in rich history, visitors to the area can take a ride back in time on the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, or experience Mesa Verde National Park and Chimney Rock National Monument.


GREAT SKIING AND THE PERFECT PLACE TO UNWIND AND RELAX Enjoy world class skiing at Durango Mountain Resort. Ski packages provide the best value for the ski season with discounted lift tickets combined with discounted guest room rates. Enjoy the convenience of skipping the lines and picking up your lift tickets when you check in to the hotel. And of course, you'll get a warm chocolate chip cookie to welcome you, as well as our stellar service throughout your stay.

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11/15/12 27 10:18 AM

hot springs & cold spots TAKING THE WATERS



ho doesn’t long for water? Especially the essential luxury of hot water on a cold winter’s day, with snowflakes falling on your face while you soak in an outdoor 103.5-degree pool (my personal favorite temperature). But since I’m a Methodist/hedonist, I prefer to earn my comforts first. Here is my perfect fantasy day: First thing in the morning, the ski patrol drops the gate, opening the awesomely steep tree run called Pierre’s at Taos Ski Valley where I teach. I get to make first tracks in two feet of new powder. Afterwards, I teach a private lesson – gotta work for a living – to a student wanting to ski powder who afterwards leaves me a great tip because, after all, enthusiasm is contagious. Later, I head for the nearest hot springs, which in this case is Ojo Caliente, about 45 minutes from Taos. First things first, though: dinner at their restaurant – I 28

to the hot springs for millennia. Native Americans held the springs sacred and as legend has it, believed they emerged into have a glass of Chianti then this world from such places. settle in for that relaxing Which makes perfect sense. massage. After this, I slip like a The water, after being held poached egg into the outdoor deep in the earth is eventually mineral pool, feeling magically delivered hot and health-giving, ten pounds lighter because, after laden with minerals. How well all, water is indeed miraculous, cared for we all are! buoying us up materially and Europeans too have a long metaphorically. I float blissfully tradition of “taking the waters.” and watch the glowing Orion The state often paid for people and his followers migrate across to travel to the baths to recupthe star-drenched sky. It is just erate from various maladies. The another simple New Mexico Romans built their first public night, graced by the scent of baths in 12 BC – a good strategy pine minerals. Embryonically for satisfying the masses and safe and warm, I never wanna quelling rebellion. come out. They can’t make me. Not all hot springs listed This fantasy is not a lie. You here are spa-like and luxurycan head to one of the many laden. Some wonderful spots hot springs right after outdoor in northern New Mexico and fun. I tell my students, who Colorado include some “hippie often come for six mornings hot springs,” too. You don’t have of ski week lessons, to take a to be a hippie to appreciate day off – technique be hanged. them, but if you want a massage, “Head for the hot springs – get you will have to bring your own a massage, and you’ll come masseuse. Some are not easy to back renewed,” I say. After they get to, which is also a part of the are chilled out and blissed out, charm. Water isn’t guaranteed they avoid the midweek slump to arrive between 90 and 130 and are reborn. After all, life degrees, which commercial is more than just technique – I spots do quite predictably. But want them to have the larger the value of fresh perspectives experience of northern New from the natural springs is Mexico’s nature and culture, immeasurable. Nature offers which after all, are intertwined. surprises, like a canyon wren So I’ve paired some of my singing from a cliff at full favorite hot spots with some of moonrise. Sometimes the Rio my favorite cold spots. It’s like Grande goes wild, for example, pairing Chateaubriand with reclaiming her own and washing a bottle of, say, ‘62 Chateau out the warm pools. Lafitte-Rothschild. Like I would The many natural springs are know. But I do know many of untamed and unmaintained, like these ski areas and hot springs. Manby Hot Springs (also known Both Nordic and Alpine as Stagecoach Hot Springs) or skiing may be relatively modern Black Rock, both along the Rio but humans have been coming Grande near Taos. Daytime skies SKICOUNTRY 2013

are just as blue and night stars just as many. Such visits have helped me to press the reset button on my crazy life while waiting or the next miracle to come along – like winning the lottery or getting first tracks on Pierre’s. The real miracle is that such places as these exist at all, elemental and comforting, reminding us that life’s not only worth living, it’s worth celebrating. OJO CALIENTE Einstein soaked here. It doesn’t take a genius to know that soaking and sunning feel great. Water bubbles up, hot and heady from the various springs: Lithia, iron, soda, and arsenic. One of the country’s oldest hot springs brought others: Cabaza de Vaca, Utes, Comanches and Navajos were drawn here by the water. The Puebloan people established a pueblo, Poseuinge, and people slowly drifted in from all over global tarnation. The 1880s-era bathhouse still stands, but the place has gone upscale to include newer lodging with private pools. In winter the largest public pool is covered. Hiking trails have been expanded, too; take a super scenic hike before taking the waters. Ski areas less than an hour or two by car away include Santa Fe, Taos Ski Valley, Angel Fire, Red River, and Sipapu. Take your ski lift ticket for a discount. TEN THOUSAND WAVES This Japanese health resort is over the top, even for Santa Fe. There are more

than a hundred therapists on staff – no, not for any mental problems – which will evaporate into the ethers here. The menu of treatments includes everything from aromatherapy and acupuncture to Watsu and too many Zen amenities to mention. Make your reservation, don a kimono, watch the koi swim in gorgeous pool and choose from every combination of inside/outside, cold/hot, public/ private that will leave you to meditate on the paradox of Zen decadence. I pray they will add a service (litters, anyone?) to carry loose-as-awet-noodle clients back down to the parking lot. I envision the Japanese lanterns lighting my way, my skin glowing from aesthetic treatments. But it’s probably wiser to stay in the romantic and elegant lodging, especially if you’ve just come off the slopes from the nearby Santa Fe Ski Area. Who says you can’t have it all? PAGOSA SPRINGS For Norteños, this is an endof-season ritual to rejuvenate après ski season and to escape mud season. It’s a just-farenough away destination and the mountains are as gorgeous as it gets. The town of Pagosa Springs is sweet, with friendly cafés, coffee shops, and antique stores. I like to stay in the Springs Resort Hotel at the Springs Resort and Spa post-ski season and take piles of books to read when I’m too wrinkled to cruise the pools. Their names reveal their natures: Waterfall, The Cliff, Lobster Pot, and The Sunset Social Club. Continued on page 31

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And as for skiing, nearby Wolf Creek is awesome. Last season they opened in early October. TRIMBLE HOT SPRINGS Trimble Spa and Natural Hot Springs, has always been part of the town’s lifestyle. And back during the first half of the 20th century, Trimble was a popular dance hall and dude ranch where the likes of Marilyn Monroe and Clark Gable once played. Trimble is sought out by the off-thebeaten-track kind of skiers looking for a savings and a quiet place along the way, but not in the way. My kids used to love this one. What kid wouldn’t? There’s an Olympicsized outdoor heated swimming pool with plenty space for them to free-range, while you

retreat to quieter mineral-rich pools. There’s a workout room, snack bar, and a place for small conferences and weddings. The nearby Nordic and alpine ski spot here is Durango Mountain Resort, which used to be called Purgatory, but I think of it as a personal heaven. Mount Princeton Hot Springs Last fall my partner and I packed heartily for a weekend camping trip to the Colorado Rockies and climbed a good way up one of the myriad “fourteeners,” Mt. Princeton in the Collegiate Range. From 12,000 feet, the blue pools of Mt. Princeton Hot Springs below looked like a string of jewels set in green grass, impossibly luxuriant. I was sore and tired: those pools

beckoned. The next day, the aspens that burst into bright gold flame against lapis skies looked every bit as lovely from the pools as they did from the peaks. Suffice to say that the camping gear never made it out of the truck. This remote and beautiful spot is still not far from Buena Vista and Salida. It lies along the Chalk River, and sponsors a cheerful medley that includes everything from hip weddings, family pools, elegant Sunday brunches and upscale adult spa areas. It’s fun to step out of the hot springs into the creek itself and snuggle into the hot spots between rocks. Monarch Mountain Ski Area is right down the road, not to mention lots of Nordic options.

HIPPIE HOT SPRINGS You don’t have to be a hippie to enjoy the many non-managed hot springs native to the geologically gifted and Rio Grande-rifted Southwest. Try Manby (aka Stagecoach) or Blackrock near Taos. Some hot springs, like Conundrum outside Aspen, are truly fabulous, but big adventuresome treks. I’ve heard of folks getting stuck there, who were perhaps literally saved by the hot water. Two books to check out: Carl Wambach’s Touring Colorado Hot Springs or Matt Bischoff’s Touring New Mexico Hot Springs. Or check at regional Forest Service and BLM offices for natural sites. Dr. Michele Potter teaches American Studies at UNM Taos and skiing at Taos Ski Valley.

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he original snowmobiles at the beginning of the 20th century were more like tractors on tracks: large, cumbersome, powerful, slow machines. They were practical, designed to haul heavy stuff and get around in tough terrain. Today’s sleds are sleek, high-powered and fast, with shocks and comfort features designed more for fun, thrills and zipping around. Northern New Mexico and southern Colorado have hundreds of miles of trails venturing into high altitudes,

Photo: courtesy Wolf Creek Snowmobile Tours

vast meadows, and forests. Snowmobile clubs and outfitters groom some trails, but leave others untouched for powder hounds. Carson National Forest has a sprawling trail system around Angel Fire and Taos. Red River riders head to Bobcat Pass, Sawmill, Greenie Peak and Midnight Meadows. Chama riders regularly hit Brazos and Hopewell Lake. Across the border in Colorado, there’s Wolf Creek Pass, Turkey Springs, Plumtaw, Porcupine, East Fork and Nipple

Mountain, and The Rio Grande and San Juan National Forests. Check with the Forest Service for up-to-date trail conditions. Guides have plenty of backcountry expertise and usually offer hourly and full-day tours. Don’t forget the camera. This year, Jan. 25-27, South Fork will host the Colorado Snowmobile Association annual convention. Up to 150 riders from around the state will head into the Rio Grande National Forest on 255 miles of trails.



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DINING region’s most successful radio station KTAOS 101.9 FM and Luna 103.7 FM and features both breathtaking views and sprawling lawns, making it the best place to drink in the view. More at

TAOS BENT STREET CAFE & DELI – 120 Bent Street, Taos, NM. 575-758-5787. A local favorite with menu selections to satisfy every palate. Served in a relaxed atmosphere featuring a year-round heated patio and outdoor terrace. Omelettes, eggs benedict, gourmet french toast, excellent sandwiches, creative salads and homemade soups and desserts. Daily specials, chicken or beef burrito and tamales plates. Vegetarian & vegan friendly. Open 7 days for breakfast, lunch, and Sunday brunch. DOC MARTIN’S RESTAURANT – 1/2 block N of Taos Plaza in The Historic Taos Inn, 575-758-1977. Fresh, fine dining in a casual, historic setting. Wine Spectator’s “Best Of” Award Of Excellence winner for 25 consecutive years. Chef “Zippy” White creates innovative Regional New American Cuisine using the freshest local ingredients, specializing in organic vegetables, meats


and fish, including favorites like buffalo, elk, trout. Delectable desserts. Lunch, dinner, Saturday and Sunday brunch. Reservations recommended.

GUADALAJARA GRILL – Two locations in Taos: Southside – 1384 Paseo del Pueblo Sur. 575-751-0063. Northside – 822 Paseo del Pueblo Norte. 575-737-0816. “Our secret sauce makes the difference!” Authentic Mexican food in New Mexico. Taos Seafood, Chile Rellenos, Azteca Quesadilla, Camarones a la Diabla, Ceviche and so much more. Beer, Wine, Agave Margaritas. Winter hours: Sun 10:30-8:30 pm. Fri-Sat 10:30 to 9 pm. Open 7 days a week. View full menu at

ESKE’S BREW PUB and EATERY – 1/2 block southeast of Taos Plaza, 575758-1517. Kids’ menu, draft root beer. Great food, fun and handcrafted beers. Open for lunch on weekends and holidays. Dinner ‘til 9 pm weekdays, KTAOS SOLAR CEN10 pm weekends. Live music. TER – At the base of Taos Mountain, equidistant from Taos Ski Valley and the hisTHE GORGE – Taos toric town center: the perfect Plaza. Stop by The Gorge and destination for entertainment try some of our juicy burgers, year-round. In addition to a full hand-shaken margaritas, or bar and restaurant open 7 days fresh oysters. There is somea week, KTAOS is home to the thing for everyone in your largest events venue in Northfamily. Enjoy the Best Happy ern New Mexico. The venue Hour in Taos while sitting on our patio overlooking the Taos also serves as location to the Plaza. We feature TWO happy hours: Monday thru Friday 3-5:30 pm and again 9-10 pm.

TAOS PIZZA OUT BACK – 712 Paseo del Pueblo Norte. 575-758-3112. Voted “Best of Taos: Best Pizza” for 10 consecutive years. We start each morning with organic flour and fresh produce to create our acclaimed hand-rolled pizzas. Our reclaimed adobe abode is the perfect setting for fun, foam and feasting. Enjoy a unique Taos experience where the three local cultures relax and mingle with international travelers. Open daily 11 am. Voted “Best Pizza in Taos” for 2012. RICKY’S – Located 2 1/2 blocks south of Taos Plaza at 312 Paseo del Pueblo Sur. 575758-1156. A locals’ favorite. Serving breakfast, lunch, dinner all day. Great New Mexican and American dishes at family oriented prices. Kid’s menu available. 80% of our dishes available vegetarian. Dine in or take out. Open 7 days from 7 am to 8 pm.

RED RIVER CAPO’S CORNER – 110 Pioneer Road. 575-754-6297. Voted “Best of Taos” for Pizza! A true ristorante Italiano, Capo’s offers authentic Italian recipes, great prices and superior service. Menu also


includes pizza, ribs, steaks, hamburgers and sandwiches. Beer and wine available. Enjoy family fun dining with great views. Carry out, banquet room facilities, pizza to go, kids’ menu. Reservations for large parties available. Hours: 11:30 - 2 pm lunch; 5-9 pm dinner. Espresso, cappuccino starting at 7 am. Free Internet WiFi. SUNDANCE – High Street at Copper King. 575-754-2971. Same great food, same great service. Celebrating our 39th year. Steaks, salads and excellent Mexican food. Great sopaipillas! Specials include: shrimp fajitas and quesadillas. Frozen wine Margaritas. Reservations welcome. Call for to-go orders. Open nightly at 5 pm.

ANGEL FIRE ANGEL FIRED PIZZA – Located on the second floor of the Mountain View mall (next to the Lowe’s Valley market). 575-377-2774. Voted “Best of Angel Fire.” We serve specialty pizzas, baked pastas, calzones, and salads all in a fun relaxed atmosphere. Gluten-free options are available. A wide selection of handcrafted beers and fine wines is available. Dine in or take out. Open Tues-Sun 3-9 pm. Daily Happy Hour. LEGENDS GRILL – Located on the second floor of The Lodge at Angel Fire Resort. 575-377-4201. For the whole family. Proudly serving 1/2 lb. Angus beef burgers, sandwiches, salads, pastas, chicken fried steak and more. Great selection of craft beers on tap. Sports on the big screens! Open daily 4 pm-9 pm. THE COFFEE HOUSE – Located in the lobby of The Lodge at Angel Fire Resort. 575-377-4234. Specialty coffees and freshly baked goods. Serving daily breakfast and lunch specials, sandwiches, salads & ice cream. Open daily 7 am-5 pm.

HATCHA’S GRILL – 3453 Mountain View Blvd., Suite D. 575-377-7011. Welcome home to the best of northern New Mexican cuisine. Three generations of authentic dishes, made fresh daily. From Breakfast Burritos, Grilled Avocado Appetizer, and Hatcha’s Smothered Enchiladas to the best Grilled Trout this side of the Pecos. Now offering chiles and salsas in a jar, from our kitchen to yours. SUNSET GRILL – 10 Five Springs Road across from Chile Express Chairlift. 575-377-6681. Serving breakfast Saturday and Sunday from 8 to 10:30 am. Burritos, pancakes, huevos rancheros and eggs benedict are available. Lunch menu includes appetizers, burgers, sandwiches, salads, fish & chips, homemade soups and chicken dishes. Dinner menu includes steaks, pasta, chicken and fish dinners. We have an extensive beer and wine list along with a full bar available. ELEMENTS at the COUNTRY CLUB – Located on the upper level of the Angel Fire Country Club. 575-3773055. Open to the public year-round. Enjoy mountain-view fine dining, great appetizers, a full bar and wine selection, private dining rooms and group event spaces. Restaurant is open Tuesday-Saturday 5 pm - 9 pm. Bar is open Tuesday-Saturday 4 pm - close.

x x



‘the living room of Taos’


at the Historic Taos Inn

HAPPY HOUR Mon-Fri 4-6 pm

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CIMARRON SAINT JAMES HOTEL – 17th and Collison in Cimarron. Reservations recommended. 575-376-2664. Come and enjoy our newly remodeled St. James Hotel! Our broad-based menu is prepared fresh daily. We have the best Mexican food and we are one of the best steak places in the Southwest. Homemade soups and desserts everyday! Come see our huge 1880s Western bar for a variety of fine wines, beers and cocktails. Breakfast buffet every day for $6.95! Open 7 days a week, 7am - 9 pm.

575 758 2233 37

2012-2013 winter


dec 1-31 Bargain Days, Red River 7 Tubing Begins, Taos Ski Valley 8-9 Snowshoe Race Clinic & Fun Run, Enchanted Forest XC 8-9 Nordic Races, Wolf Creek 8 Fun Race, Wolf Creek 8 Lighting of Ledoux St., Taos 9 Ongoing: Telemark Clinics, Wolf Creek 12 Red River Community Christmas Dinner 14 Angel Fire opens 15 Ongoing: Men’s Ski/Board Clinics, Wolf Creek Ski Area 15-16 Angel Fire Holiday Market, The Lodge, Angel Fire Resort 19-20 Purgatory Locals’ Day, Durango 21 Apache Star Racecourse opens, Ski Apache 21-22 Demo Days, Taos Ski Valley 22 17th Annual Brewmasters Festival, Taos Ski Valley 22 Dummy Gelunde Jump, Torchlight Parade, Ski Apache 22 Moonlight Ski & Snowshoe Tour, Enchanted Forest XC 23-24 Ski & Snowboard with Santa, most ski areas 24 Luminaria Ski Tour, Enchanted Forest XC Ski Area 24 Christmas Eve Torchlight parades & fireworks, all ski areas 24 Sipapu Christmas Eve Party 24 Christmas Eve Vespers, Taos Pueblo and Picuris Pueblos 24-25 Santa visits ski areas 25 Deer or Matachines Dance, Taos Pueblo (no cameras) 25 Luminaria Ski/Snowshoe Tour, Enchanted Forest XC 26 Deer Dance, San Juan Pueblo 27 Annual Race Camp, Red River 30 World Snowboard Day, Sipapu 31 New Year’s celebrations & torchlight parades, all ski areas


1 1 1

Turtle Dance, Taos Pueblo Polar Bear Plunge, Eagle Nest Ongoing winter Wednesdays: Tubing, Taos Ski Valley 5 USASA Goldrush Rail Jam Qualifier, Red River Ski Area 5 Ongoing Saturdays: Rail Jam & Torchlight Parades, Red River 5-6 Ski Bike Demo Days, Sipapu 5, 12, 26 Fun Race, Wolf Creek 6 Buffalo Dance, Taos Pueblo 6 King’s Day, Picuris Pueblo 6-11 Ski Race Week, Taos Ski Valley 6 Telemark Ski, Wolf Creek 7-13 College Days, Red River 8-9 Outlaw Snow Down, Wolf Creek 8 Ongoing: Senior Ski/Board Clinic, Wolf Creek 12 Terrain Park Competition, Ski Apache 12 Wood Ski Festival, Enchanted Forest XC 14-15 Red River Winter Carnival 19 Winterfest Celebration, Durango Mountain Resort 19 Vertical Challenge, Ski Apache 19 Ultimate Ski & Snowboard Challenge, Red River 19 Sisters on Snow Seminar, Ski Apache 19-20 Winter Carnival, Red River 19-21 Chama Chile Ski Classic 20 Martin Luther King Jr. Race, Wolf Creek 21-27 Home School Week, Red River 25-27 Big Ol’ Texas Weekend, Angel Fire 25-27 SheRide Women’s Snowboarding Clinic, Durango 26 Moonlight hike & campfire, Sipapu 26 Moonlight Ski & Snowshoe Dinner, Enchanted Forest XC 26 Terrain Park Competition, Ski Apache 26-27 USASA Snowboard Slalom and Giant Slalom, Red River 26-27 Low O2 Challenge Races, Enchanted Forest XC 28 United Way Day (lift discounts) Wolf Creek Ski Area 27 Telemark Ski Week, TSV 30-Feb 2 Winter Wine Festival, TSV

feb 2

Terrain Park Competition, Ski Apache 2-3 Ski Bike Festival, Sipapu 3 Superbowl Party, Legends Grill, Angel Fire Resort 7-10 Winterfest 2013, Pagosa Springs, CO 7-12 Mardi Gras in the Mountains, Red River Ski Area 9 Red Ball Express Fundraiser, Durango 8-10 Shovel Race Championship, Angel Fire Resort 12 Fat Tuesday, Taos Ski Valley 12 Mardi Gras Celebration, Durango 16 GPS Mileage Challenge, Ski Apache 16 Mogul / Steeps Camp, TSV 16-18 February Fun Fest, Sipapu 18 Ice Fishing Tournament, Eagle Nest Lake 21-24 IFSA North American Juniors at Taos Ski Valley 23 Heart to Heart Challenge Fun Race, Ski Apache 23 Moonlight hike and campfire, Sipapu 23 Women’s Snowboard Camp, Taos Ski Valley TBA SW Snow Kite Fest, Eagle Nest State Park 23 USASA Red River Rampage Slopestyle 23 Just Desserts Eat and Ski, Enchanted Forest XC 23 Fun Race, Wolf Creek Ski 23 Telemark Ski, Wolf Creek 24-30 Fun Race, College Day, Wolf Creek 27-28 Salomon Extreme Freeride Championships, Taos Ski Valley


mar 2 Telemark Camp, TSV 2, 9, 23 Fun Race, Wolf Creek 9 Spring Beer Festival, TSV 9 Ernie Blake’s Birthday Celebration, Taos Ski Valley 9 Black Diamond Telemark Festival, Sipapu 9-10 Hawaiian Days, Sipapu 9-24 Beach Weeks, Red River 16 Moguls / Steeps Camp, Taos 17 10th Annual Cardboard Derby, Sipapu 17 St. Patrick’s Day Celebration, Taos Ski Valley 22 Annual Ben Myers Ridge-aThon, Taos Ski Valley 22-24 Dog Days, Enchanted Forest XC Ski Area 23 Pond Skimming Contest, Sipapu 24 4th Annual Pond Skim, Red River Ski Area 24 Closing Day, Angel Fire 24 Closing Day, Red River 29 NM Jr. Freeride Championships, Taos Ski Valley 30 Telemark Ski, Wolf Creek 31 Easter Egg Scavenger Hunt, Sipapu 31 Easter Bunny visits Wolf Creek

apr 7 7 7 7

Fun Race, Ski & Board Clinics, Wolf Creek Bud Light Pond Skimming Championship, TSV Taos Ski Valley Closing Day Wolf Creek Closing Day

Dates subject to change. Check with local chambers for updated calendar information. Angel Fire 800-446-8117 Chama Valley 800-477-0149 Durango 970-247-3500 Eagle Nest 800-494-9117 Pagosa Springs 800-252-2204 Red River 800-348-6444

Ruidoso 877-784-3676 Santa Fe 800-777-2489 South Fork 800-571-0881 Taos County 800-732-8267 Taos Pueblo 575.758.1028

building fine homes for over 35 years

SHUTER CONSTRUCTION 575.377.6456 ph 575.377.3822 fx po box 303 angel fire nm 87710 lic #90984