THE HUNT FOR BURIED TREASURE NEW MEXICO TRAILS
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ammas, don’t let your babies grow up to be cowboys… Yeah, well, tell it to a ten-yearold, especially boys hobbled in school by too much learnin,’ or penned up in the house too long with their sisters; boys with the natural wandering soul of a cowboy, untethered, slapping the imaginary hind end of a palomino, past trot and canter to a full-on lightnin’ speed gallop. I’m lookin’ at a few of them ruffians right now. There’s a red-headed freckly kid with eyes always pointin’ in different directions, goes by the name of “Old Buzzard Breath.” We give him the name on account of he never brushes his teeth; but he claims it’s from all the twists of tobacky he’s chawed on his whole life, even though he’s barely nine. And there’s another scoundrel – meaner than a gut shot rattlesnake – a-called “Cactus Head,” ‘cause his hair’s always stickin’ up funny. There’s the dirty-booted “Cowpie Carl” and “Old Longhandles,” a skinny fella. Me, I’m “Sagebrush Tumbleweed”– two of the best words ever invented – but you can call me Sage for short, ‘cause I am. We‘re a purty rough bunch of desperados – even though we call each other pilgrims and hayseeds – the rowels on our spurs jinglin’ and janglin’ wherever we amble, and we’re as liable to shoot ya as look at ya, especially “Old Buzzard Breath” who never knows where he’s aimin’ his six shooter on account of his messed up eyes. An’ we learnt how to talk right mostly from old westerns, and could whip out a word like “heckfire” whenever we felt like it. If you was lookin’ for us, we’re about a million miles from nowhere,
not quite at the end of the earth but you can see it from here, where the sky don’t quit and the desert butts up against the mountains. We always rise early, select our mounts from the remuda and spend a long day in the saddle: bustin’ broncs, ropin’ wild mustangs, racin’ stagecoaches, huntin’ buffalo, chasin’ down bandidos or protectin’ our womenfolk. We ain’t never lily-livered; there’s plenty of giddyup in our blood. Course it’s a hard scrabble life ridin’ the range and we all been kicked at, leaned on, rubbed on, stepped on, muzzle-nuzzled, stomped, hip checked and head butted plenty. And even if we’re throwed, we get back up, walk with a swagger and slap the dust off our britches with our Stetsons. Nights, you might find us bellied up to a bar sippin’ sasparillas or whippin’ up some beans by a campfire next to a crick, talkin’ about where we’d find us a grubsteak or settle down and stake us a claim. We lean against our saddles listenin’ to coyotes howl and watch the silver moon rise over the mesas, nursin’ a few old injuries from earnin’ our spurs. It’s the life of a cowboy and we wouldn’t have it no other way. Years later, when I ended up tending a herd of horses (and too many other animals), I learned I was more of a gunzel than a vaquero, despite all of my childhood practicing. One afternoon when I was down at the barn taking a nap where the sun filtered through the wood beams onto the hay, this crazy old mule careened into the corral raising a ruckus. He’d come before, and always wreaked havoc with the herd. HighCountry 2014
This mule had huge yellow teeth, saliva dripping, and a head like a log with a sketchy look in his eyes. And he always tore everything up. So I closed the gate and figured to catch and drag him back to the neighbors. I remembered years earlier watching a young cowhand rope a strawberry roan with a loop he called a hoolihan, and he pulled that horse right out of a bunch of jostling heads. I knew I couldn’t pull that off – that dang mule was flying around the corral in crazy circles – but I figured if I could just get that rope around his head he’d have to settle down sooner or later. Of course he chose later. After a few throws of roping air, I snagged him and he started bucking and kicking his hind legs like the crazy thing he was. At first, I kind of water-skied behind him until my boot heels dug in and I flopped to my belly onto the sun-hammered dirt and he started dragging me around. He hated that rope around his neck and even more the dead weight hanging at the other end. After a few laps around the wood trough in the center of the corral, and then a few more just for kicks, he finally got the rope wrapped around a snubbing post and it wedged him tight, and me too. A friend of mine, sort of, had watched the whole thing and said it was the best drag race he’d seen in awhile. Unlike the old westerns, I didn’t mount up and ride off into the sunset; instead, I threw my body, clothes and all, into the pond to cool down all the hot aches, and pains, listening to the thunderheads building in the distance. Welcome to the southern Rockies, where there are plenty of trails to explore and tales to be told. Me… I’m going to do a few chores, take another nap and maybe rustle up some grub – maybe some more of that green chile mule posole. — Joe Haukebo, Publisher hawk-media.com
One of North America’s top bike mountains 866-668-7787 App Store: Angel Fire App AngelFireFun.org
On The Green
The Hunt For Buried Treasure
New Mexico Trails
Calendar of Events
Native To New Mexico
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS John Biscello, Jim O’Donnell, Michelle Potter PHOTOGRAPHY Addison Doty, Carol Morgan Eagle, Jim O’Donnell, Terrance Siemon, Geraint Smith COVER
Bullriding photo titled “Not Quite Eight” by Geraint Smith, shot at Rodeo de Taos HighCountry and SkiCountry Visitor Guides are published by Hawk Media. All rights reserved. Material in this publication may not be reproduced in any form without written permissionfrom the Publisher. Requests for permission should be directed to:
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Mirror, Mirror “The sun never knew how wonderful it was, until it fell on the wall of a building.” — Louis Kahn
ith all due respect to Mr. Kahn’s architecturally-inspired view of the sun, it was Nature’s skyscrapers, the mountains, that were the sun’s original vanity-mirrors. This is supremely evident in the landscape-defining mountain ranges of northern New Mexico and Southern Colorado, especially in the summer, when a mutable run of colors turns the mountains into eye-candy for the soul. Sky, mountains and light comprise the elemental heart of this region, while its spirit—a trickster, shape-shifter and unquantifiable force—moves through everything from sacred festivals to river-rafting romps to the conversational buzz at cafes and bars. How you experience it is a Choose-Your-Own Adventure with limitless possibilities.
Film Treatment Let’s consider Taos in a cinematic context. A maverick indie film with a colorful and offbeat cast, and award-winning cinematography (see: the 2013 designation of the Rio Grande del Norte as a national monument). Its plot would be no plot at all but rather a series of intersecting ambiguities, moods and scenes; an age-old experiment forever in the making. On the hawk-media.com
tried and true side of things, both the Taos Pueblo Pow-Wow (July 11-13) and the Fiesta de Taos (July 18-20) reflect the cultural roots of the Native and Hispanic communities, respectively. Dancing, singing, ceremony, crafts, food, and communion are at the heart of both events. Taos Plaza becomes the hot-spot on Thursday evenings, with Taos Plaza Live (May 23-September 5) showcasing local bands and musicians on a weekly basis. Dust and revelry will be kicked up cowboy-style at the 45th Annual Rodeo de Taos (June 23 - 24). After nearly sixty years in the Blake family, the Taos Ski Valley has changed hands and is now owned by business mogul, conservationist, and avid skier, Louis Bacon. Renovations are planned, which will include two new lifts, mountain biking trails, an expanded base area, as well as new restaurants and retail shops. Esteemed for its worldclass skiing, TSV is also a summer-friendly high-altitude playground, where disc golf, mountain biking, horseback riding, hiking, and hot air ballooning can be enjoyed.
Angel Fire Chama Cimarron Durango Eagle Nest Pagosa Springs Red River South Fork Taos Taos Ski Valley
Elements at Play “Words are only painted fire; a look is the fire itself.” — Mark Twain Mr. Twain’s quote could serve as tagline for the celestial pyrotechnics set off by the sunsets from which Angel Fire derives its name. Home to a PGAranked alpine golf course, a celebrated mountain biking park with invigorating trails, horse-drawn wagon rides, and the 9
immensely popular Zipline Adventure Tour, in which tree-hugging takes on a whole new meaning, Angel Fire is a resort town that thrives on gear-switching. World class epitomizes the timbre and tone of the Music from Angel Fire Series (mid-August through early September), now in its 31st season of bringing chamber music to various northern New Mexico settings. And Friday nights in July means Movies Under the Stars, when families can enjoy free movies and free popcorn on the lawn of the Angel Fire Country Club. Regarding itself as “Main Street in the Mountains,” Red River combines postcard charm with a Texas-sized appetite for good times. A former gold min-
a weekend of music and chili cook-offs. For those angling for a bite, nearby Eagle Nest Lake offers some of the region’s finest fishing, and a pristine setting to boot. Kokanee salmon and rainbow trout are the lake’s main draw, but anglers have also been known to catch glimpses of elk, mule deer, bears, and bald eagles. A lake-side Fourth of July celebration, comes with the fixins’ of a parade, BBQ lunch and fireworks display after dark. The village of Chama. Late 1800s. Cue saloon piano, as two grizzled gentleman step out onto the dusty road and draw their six-shooters. Gunfire. One hits the ground, the other walks away a small legend. A bustling boomtown way
ing town which drew its fair share of pickaxes and Midas-minded dreamers, some highlights on Red River’s summer calendar include: The Classic Car Show (May 30-June 1), River & Brews Blues Fest (June 6-8), The Fine Art & Wine Festival (June 13-15), and the always spicy Hot Chili Days, Cool Mountains Nights (August 14-16), which showcases
back when, Chama generated a “Wild West” flair while breaking the hearts of many Easy Street dreamers. Another part of Chama’s past, which remains active today, is the Cumbres-Toltec Scenic Railroad. Territorial Days (June 27-29), an event celebrating the arrival of the railroad in Chama in 1880, features: Skits, music, dancing, Jicarilla Apache
events, crafts, blacksmithing, and more. To travel even further back into Chama’s past, pay a visit to the Puye Cliff Dwellings. Inhabited by approximately 1,500 Pueblo Indians for more than three centuries (from the 900s to 1580 A.D.) this national monument offers two self-guided tours: The Cliff Trail and the Mesa Top Trail.
Rocky Mountain High Life (Meta-Editor’s Note: The above title is in no way meant to refer to legalized marijuana, not even as a half-baked pun, nor as a nod to the mountain-inspired movie Cheech & Chong never released: Where the Grass Grows High.) Pedestrian-friendly, river-hearted and steeped in historic mystique, Durango flaunts its charms in an easygoing and laid-back manner. Formerly a ranching and mining town, Durango (“water town”) was named after the Animas River, which maintains a steady flow of recreational options: fly fishing, white water rafting, canoeing, kayaking. We may live in a cyber-age where the future is upgraded daily, but visitors can hearken back to a bygone era, when locomotives were unparalleled track stars. In operation since 1880, the Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad—whose scenic complexion has found itself in many movies—plays host to a variety of special events, including: Jim Henson’s Dinosaur Train (July 7-8, 14-15), which features a visit to the Nature Trackers Adventure Area, where families can take part in a fossil dig; and Durango Railfest (August 14-17) an event commemorating Durango’s railroad legacy. As for offthe-rail summer events: Music in the Mountains (July 13-August 2) is now in its 28th year of bringing an elevated slant to classical music performances, while Durango Fiesta Days (July 24-27) HighCountry 2014
celebrates the area’s Spanish and Native American history. If ghostly lore floats your boat, then drop in at the historic St. James Hotel in Cimarron. With some of its outlaw “interior decorators” leaving bullet holes in the wall as a stylistic statement, the roughand-tumble past of the St. James Hotel is a sneak-peek into the psyche of the Wild West. Numerous ghosts are said to call the St. James home. Check out Philmont Scout Ranch, largest private backpacking facility in the world. Known as the gateway to the San Juan Mountains, Rio Grande Country, which includes South Fork, Monte Vista and Del Norte, encapsulates the scenic majesty of the San Luis Valley. South Fork, which is abundant in outdoor recreation, is the starting point for the Silver Thread National Scenic Byway. Birds of different feathers flock together at the Monte Vista Wildlife National Refuge, nearly 15,000 acres of artificially created wetlands. And every July, the agricultural town of Del Norte shifts gears and plays host to the Del Norte Mountain Bike Stage Race. Located within the sprawling San Juan National Forest, and hemmed in by the cloud-piercing San Juan Mountains, Pagosa is a jewel-of-an-oasis. Pagosa (which comes from “Pagosah,” the Southwestern Ute word for “healing waters”) offers three different hot spring facilities. Tonic-for-the-soul may come in the form of mineral pools, baths, rooftop tubs, and massage treatments. Hiking, biking, rock climbing, fishing, golfing, horseback riding, boating, and disc golf are other activities that keep summer in Pagosa humming along. For more, go to VisitPagosaSprings.com. John Biscello lives and writes in Taos. His books, Freeze Tag and Broken Land: A Brooklyn Tale, are available through Amazon. hawk-media.com
Alpine Lodging Fireside Inn Cabins
High Country Lodge And Cabins
Private river and fishing access on the San Juan River. Close to Pagosa Hot Springs, Wolf Creek Ski Area and National Forest. Fully-equipped one- and two-bedroom cabins. Covered porch with off-porch BBQ area. Tented gathering area with fire pits. Guest laundry, hot tub, wi-fi, phone and cable. Open all year.
Five minutes from downtown Pagosa Springs in the beautiful San Juan Mountains. Full-service hotel offers lodging from lodge rooms to comfortable cabins for privacy and relaxation for families or couples. Complimentary hot breakfast, three hot tubs and sauna, wifi, cable with HBO, fireplaces in cabins. Guest laundry, playground area, large lawn, private fishing pond, horse corrals, fire pits and BBQ grills. Pet-friendly.
1600 E. Hwy 160, Pagosa Springs, Colorado www.FiresideCabins.com 888-264-9204
3821 Hwy 160 East, Pagosa Springs, Colorado www.HighCountryLodge.com 800.862.3707 970.264.4181
El Pueblo Lodge Come stay at the edge of town, at the edge of everything! Southwest charm with early Taos architecture, but with all the modern conveniences travelers expect. Complimentary Wi-Fi, 40â&#x20AC;? flat screen TVs with HD and DirectTV, fitness room, heated seasonal pool and year-round hot tub. Expanded continental breakfast each morning, fresh baked cookies each afternoon. Pet-friendly. Three blocks from historic Taos Plaza; 18 miles from Taos Ski Valley. Taos Pueblo and Taos Mountain Casino two miles north. Visit our website for specials & packages. #1 on TripAdvisor in the Taos area for 3 years!
412 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos, New Mexico www.ElPuebloLodge.com 800.433.9612 575.758.8700
Best Western Rio Grande Two blocks from Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad train station. Close to fine dining, great shopping and exciting night life. 102 spacious rooms, prime location, friendly staff, special amenities. Summer activities include horseback riding, mountain biking, river rafting, and kayaking, or tour Mesa Verde National Park or the San Juan Skyway. Complimentary breakfast and cocktail hour, heated indoor pool and jacuzzi, wifi, cable TV with free HBO, fitness center, free guest laundry, and more.
400 E. 2nd Ave., Durango, Colorado www.BWRioGrandeInn.com 800.245.4466 970.385.4980
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The Hunt for Buried Treasure
y writer friend Phaedra says we have to go out and look for Forrest Fenn’s treasure, or how can I write about it? “No waaaay,” I say. The truth is I’m quite good at getting lost, and treasure hunting would only exacerbate my basic condition. I don’t admit to her that just the day before I’d hiked twenty-plus miles, most of it lost, and came out in the dark. On past excursions, posses have gathered in my name, which is just so ridiculous because I always made it out on my own. A map may have been helpful. Stories, like maps, also help us to chart our course, and in the case of the $3 million treasure chest Fenn has hidden, the intrigue involves perspectives that are both literal and literary. The small Roman brass chest itself is nearly 1000 years old itself, and the trove is incredible, containing assorted riches, mostly gold, with gold dust, nuggets the size of hen’s eggs, sapphires, rubies, and a heaping of other riches including a bracelet Fenn loved wearing that he would like to buy back. It has historical and sentimental significance, not the least of which is he won it in a poker game. Fenn has published maps of its location but the de facto map in his second memoir Too Far Too Walk doesn’t exactly mark the spot, and the map includes a lot of mountains, like great swaths of the Rockies (the treasure lies at over 5,000 feet). The original nine clues which appear in a poem in his earlier book The Thrill of the Chase constitute a more 14
literary type of map, requiring seekers to decode language. Though other clues have emerged and other hints might be found between the lines of his stories, here’s a sample stanza: Begin it where warm waters halt And take it in the canyons down. Not far, but too far to walk. Put in below the home of Brown.
Many people (some 35,000 at Fenn’s estimate) are up for the game, while others are armchair travelers, mere hangers-on. Like me. To my way of thinking, Fenn’s life stories are treasure enough, so I would be inclined to just tell lies (another form of story) about the treasure’s whereabouts over drinks, preferably a “Thrill of the Chase” cocktail (rum, vermouth, Amaretto and gold flakes) at Santa Fe’s Loretto Inn. The hunt has turned into a cottage industry. And why shouldn’t it? Hiders and seekers have long been part of New Mexico history. Think of the Spanish Entrada, a desire for gold fueled by the Cities of Gold saga. Think of hippies and seekers and Sikhs. Think of our very own Los Alamos (aka the Secret City), or the Navajo Code Talkers, whose codes were never broken. Even if you’re not sure what your hungry heart is missing, the mountains of northern New Mexico remain a great place to look. And where I think it’s at. A reasonable place to start out is with the terrain of language itself. Take Forrest Fenn for example. There’s Forrest as in forest, and Fenn as in fen, meaning a moor or meadow. Look it up. Fenn loves looking stuff up, and then messing it up. Who would use a word like “articulancy,” a word that clarificates
even as it obfuscates. One of Fenn’s friends, Douglas Preston, has written a novel based on the treasure called The Codex. He is one of the few people who has actually seen the 42-pound treasure chest, pre-hiding, and when he saw it Fenn says he stood back and laughed. Like the performance artist that I take Fenn for, the entire thing seems designed to make the reader think, the viewer gasp, and the seeker to desire and search for an amazing body of art, and to construct their own experience around it. The treasure might soon be found or…not. Fenn has reason to believe people have been within 500 feet of it. I imagine a faraway future in which some lost soul trips over the box (by then covered with pine needles) swears, and wonders what the heck it is. Some of us don’t lack for imagination. Most folks are intrigued by the “what” of the story, followed by the “where,” but not me. It’s always about the “why.” Why would someone presumably decide to give away some of their dearest (and most expensive) possessions? I need more clues. I go in search of Forrest Fenn. I find him, first, on the internet and in his books, then at home in Santa Fe. It is unsurprising that a man who admits to having “lived a charmed life” is surrounded by a beautiful family and astonishing art and artifacts, which speak of a former art dealer. But it is the possession of the kinds of books—and HighCountry 2014
adventures and newly reconnected relationships—on the way to finding no material treasure whatsoever. The canny Fenn holds his clues close to his chest, though he has made some clarifications and slipped a few hints in between the lines of the everyday and over-the-top stories that constitute his memoirs. Like the anachronistic (and even anarchist) nature writer Ed Abbey, he has figured out how to get people off their, um, couches and into the wild. In true Abbey-esque fashion, he says, “Why shouldn’t I make my own rules?” The rules of the game are often cryptic, but for the treasure’s myriad seekers, it’s still about the chase. I was surprised to find out that my 23-yearold son Tobin had read The Thrill and said, “Maybe we should go look.” Why should I be surprised? As a kid, we always had to pull off the road in search of some geocache. I sagely pointed out that we’d never find it. He said “that’s not the point,” but I think he’s a true believer. Anyway, he’s fun to pack with, and if he finds it, I expect him to share it with me. I began to fantasize about summer trips and cool mountain passes, long lonely canyons, and places where “warm waters halt.” I wonder who or what the “house of Brown” means. For my son it probably means “brown ale.” The mystery deepens. Nothing to do but keep on searching. PHOTO: ADDISON DOTY
stories—Fenn has that constitute the greatest surprise, a kind of testament to a life writ large. The kid Forrest Fenn loved adventure stories; now his life reads like one. He also loved collecting stuff. Fenn explains that his father took him out hunting for arrowheads. “Grab every banana,” was his father’s philosophy, which translates loosely into, “Don’t let life go by.” His luck and pluck may have prepared him for his career as a fighter pilot. In the Vietnam War, he did 328 runs in 348 days and was shot down (twice). His wife was informed that no parachute was seen. But he dodged that bullet and was rescued. He and Peggy, his wife of 60 years, moved from Texas to Santa Fe and ran an art gallery for 17 years. Besides various objets d’art and Native American artifacts, they garnered clients and friends along the way, the likes of Jackie Kennedy and fashion designer Ralph Lauren—and more stories, of course. One was about Ralph Lauren, which started the whole treasure thing. The famous designer was intent on buying a particular Sioux bonnet that Fenn didn’t want to sell. As legend has it, when Lauren said, “Well, you can’t take it with you,” Fenn famously replied, “Then I’m not going.” What Lauren did not know was that Fenn had just been handed a death sentence: his odds of surviving cancer were one in twenty. Fenn decided, as his father essentially had, to plan his own exit strategy. He began scheming about filling a very old Roman chest with a trove to dazzle whoever found it, one
that might mirror the richness in his own life. He could hide it somewhere very beautiful—a good place to die. No last scene from a hospital bed. He could imagine himself draped over that chest at last gasp. They sold the gallery, but the plot was foiled, says he, because he didn’t die. Another bullet dodged. He still planned to hide the treasure, but with no rush, it took awhile—until he was about 80. In those last three years, the Forest Service has taken to issuing warnings about people who are dumb enough to go out alone, without proper footwear or maps (who would do that?). Nobody’s dead yet, least of all the Mighty Fenn. One seeker tried to dig under a descanso, another got lost, and one got scuba gear and walked along a lake bottom. One Chicago family has come out to look for it 14 times. Mostly, though, Fenn says that seekers express their gratitude for the metaphorical treasures they’ve found—
Michele Potter PdD has lived in Taos for 17 years and teaches at Taos Ski Valley in the winter. 15
New Mexico Trails New Mexico Pueblos Trail
Fiber Arts Trail There are few main roads in this part of the state, so you wend your way along to the back ones along the river canyons ringed in shining snow-capped peaks, into forested valleys and up over the mountains to the grassy plains that stretch to the horizon. Along the way you’ll find that fibers arts are an integral part of New Mexico. Here, Native American fiber traditions are overlain and interwoven with Spanish, Mexican and Euro-American customs. A good place to start is at the Española Valley Fiber Arts Center. Supporting over 500 regional artists, the facility also offers a multitude of classes from traditional loom work to wool dyeing and felting. From there, move on to villages with names like Cundiyó, Chimayó, Dixon, Peñasco — each supporting their own set of amazing fiber artists. Up in Taos, La Lana Wools — one of many area fiber arts centers in the area — shows off stunning yarns and offers knitting and needle-felting workshops. From there follow the trail leads over to the artists in Mora where Tapetes de Lana inhabits a refurbished 200-year-old mercantile building. Head out on the plains to Las Vegas, Madrid and then La Cienega near Santa Fe. There are nearly two dozen local natural fiber centers in the north central portion of New Mexico, so take your time. hawk-media.com
There are 19 Native American pueblos in New Mexico and most of them are located in the north-central portion of the state. In these villages old traditions are still maintained, including ritual dances and artistic craft work. Just north of the modern Town of Taos for example is Taos Pueblo, which has been continuously occupied for at least 1000 years. The picturesque San Juan Pueblo located 30 miles northwest of Santa Fe is noted for its skilled potters and woodcarvers as well as an art center and cooperative where visitors can view local artists and craftspeople working on jewelry and pottery. Further south right at the base of the Pajarito Plateau along the Rio Grande, San Ildefonso is best known for the amazing black-on-black pottery style that originated there. Santo Domingo Pueblo is located 30 miles southwest of Santa Fe and is one of the largest and most conservative of the New Mexico pueblos. The pueblo is well-known for its jewelry production and handicrafts as well as the great importance they place on their time-honored religious institutions and social structures. Although generally open to visitors please remember that you should not photograph or film inside the pueblos except with express permission.
Northern New Mexico Arts Trail There are few places where the arts are such an integral part of the land and culture as in northern New Mexico. Art venues, galleries, artist studios and workshops are scattered all up and down our fertile valleys and tucked down little alleyways in the adobe villages that
dot the landscape. Thankfully, most of these creative entrepreneurs have joined together to get themselves on the map! Several arts tours take place throughout the years to help visitors and locals alike find the art that New Mexico has inspired. Tours start in May with the Eldorado Studio Tour near Santa Fe and run all the way through into the perfect days of fall. The Pilar Studio Tour in June calls itself the “jewel box of art tours.” This unique little artist community south of Taos sports some incredible painters and potters. The High Road Art Tour for example sees artists on the High Road to Taos open their studios and galleries for two consecutive weekends every autumn. The Taos Arts Organization likewise runs a tour for several weekends at the end of the summer. Over the mountain the Moreno Valley Arts Council runs tours up and down the valley from Eagle Nest to Angel Fire and all the little communities nearby. The Dixon Studio Tour wraps it all up in November with over fifty artists opening their doors.
Santa Fe Trail Out east of the mountains on the Great Plains are the communities that were inspired by the Santa Fe Trail. This is the land where the expansive plains run up against the great mountains called the Sangre de Cristos. From about 1820 to Continued on page 19 17
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New Mexico Trails
Map not to scale; includes trail routes only. Consult your New Mexico map for detail.
1860 the Santa Fe Trail brought America to the Southwest and in several places the deep ruts left by the literally millions of wagon wheels that passed over the prairie are still visible. This land is as open as you can imagine. Herds of pronghorn race along fence lines and past windmills that speak to a time when there were far more people on the plains than there are today. Out here where New Mexico flows into Texas and Oklahoma you’ll find the places like the Capulín Volcano National Monument and the ruins of Fort Union National Monument where American forces were posted to protect the traders on the trail. Las Vegas, one of the main stopping points on the trail, hosts a wealth of museums and an excellent national wildlife refuge. Just hawk-media.com
south of Las Vegas is the Pecos National Historic Park. To the north and against the mountains lie Cimarron and the St. James Hotel, once a hotbed of famous western outlaws such as Billy the Kid.
Wine Trail New Mexico isn’t quite famous internationally for its wines – yet. In fact, New Mexico has a very deep wine tradition and many of its modern wines are award-winning. So now, you’ve toured the pueblos, explored the eastern plains and seen all the art your cultured self can handle. It’s time to sit back and enjoy a glass. Wineries inhabit every corner of the state but it is in the north where the high altitude, crisp air and unique soils give the wines what can only be de-
scribed as the taste of New Mexico. Just south of Taos you’ll find the Dixon-based wineries of Vivac and La Chiripada. A bit further south is the renowned Black Mesa operation as well as Estrella del Norte and Vino del Corazon. Out west of Taos near Chama are the Wines of San Juan. Each of these wineries offers tastings and tours. Many serve fine food and host music events. There are even several New Mexico companies who specialize in running tours of these wineries. There is just nothing quite like sitting back in a velvety vineyard, surrounded by the wind and water sculpted landscape and sipping at a glass of wine that tastes just like New Mexico.
— Jim O’Donnell 19
Native to New Mexico
The Best Hot Air Balloon Flight in the World ust before sunrise a light breeze picks up and races along the ground rolling miniature tumbleweeds, swirling dust and bringing a shudder to the sagebrush. We are standing on the sharp volcanic rim of the Rio Grande Gorge about ten miles north of Taos, surrounded by rugged peaks. The Rio Grande del Norte National Monument lay before us, spreading all the way to the Colorado border. The river, 800 feet below, runs south. The sky is a crisp blue. The balloon lifts and then drops almost immediately into the gorge. As we sink slowly towards the river the light morning winds take us upstream past a
to move downstream. After a half hour in the gorge we fly up over 1000 feet above the mesa. We can see hundreds of miles in every direction. Nothing quite compares to having what is perhaps the best hot air balloon flight in the world right in your backyard.
The Red Belly Fights Again Up the valley the creek creates small pools gouged out by the falling water. Some of the pools are several feet deep despite the fact that the creek itself might only be two foot wide. That is where you’ll find the rare Panza Colorada otherwise known as the Rio Grande Cutthroat trout. Once upon a time, this ancient New Mexican was found throughout the region and fed both the Native Americans and the Spanish settlers. Over the years however, human activity negatively impacted the habitat of this amazing fish. In the last 100 years the Cutthroat has also had to contend with introduced Rainbow and Brown trout. Thankfully, our mountain wilderness offers shelter to the “cutties” that remain. One of those is the Columbine These riverside petroglyphs are among the oldest in the Taos area. Hondo Wilderness Study Area, a massive roadless area just wall covered in ancient Native American northeast of Taos. This, the rooftop of petroglyphs. There is a herd of bighorn New Mexico, is often shrouded in clouds sheep scattering up the steep walls of whose moisture feeds the creeks that the canyon. A red tail hawk sails by. An flow down to the Rio Grande. If you otter cuts across the water looking for hook one of these fish you’ll be stunned breakfast. Then the basket gently touchby the fight it puts up. If you land it, es the surface of the river and the starts 20
you’ll be equally stunned by the wild colors of this wet New Mexican. These days, the New Mexico Department of Game and Fish, along with Trout Unlimited and New Mexico Trout, are reclaiming streams for the Cutthroat. Ancient Art of the High Plateau One recent Saturday evening I was at the Taos Mesa Brewery for the first anniversary celebration of our new Rio Grande del Norte National Monument. Outside we had typical northern New Mexico spring weather. A storm was snowing, raining, sleeting, hailing, blowing and casting lightning all around – all at once. By chance I ran into two friends who, as rather youthful retirees, have spent the last few years working diligently to record the massive amount of Native American petroglyphs in the Taos area. It is no small task. There are literally tens of thousands of Native American petroglyphs spread over several hundred thousand acres of northern New Mexico. I joined them the next day down in the Rio Grande Gorge to scout out a number of 200-300 year old Comanche petroglyphs. The petroglyphs in the Taos area date from deep prehistoric times to the Spanish colonial era and to near modern times. The Taos Archaeology Society volunteers are working with the Bureau of Land Management and local tribes to document, study and interpret these priceless treasures of the high country. They also run a SiteWatch program HighCountry 2014
where a team of volunteers help to keep watch and protect the amazing cultural sites of the Upper Rio Grande area. Fresh, Local and Fun – Taos Farmers Market It only takes us five minutes to walk there and so many sunny, summer Saturday mornings the kids and I head down to the Taos Farmer’s Market for coffee, scones and a giant green chile breakfast burrito. Well, that one is for me. Sitting under the cottonwoods lining the parking lot at the Taos Town Hall next to the library we eat our breakfast while a group of musicians howl out traditional New Mexico music and farmers come and go with their produce. The market runs mid-May through October. A walk around finds heirloom tomatoes, apple varieties found only in northern New Mexico and a host of other local vegetables and fruits. One grower specializes in honey, another in cheeses and dairy products.
There are grass-fed meats, eggs from chickens that are truly free-range. Then there are the jams, chutneys and baked goods. Flowers, herbs and handmade treasures are also to be found in the market. Our typical buy is what we need for a picnic that afternoon. After the party dies down we pack up our finds and head for the high country to enjoy the fruits of the lands. The Weminuche Wilderness – Where the Rio Grande Begins It is hot down in the valleys in the summer. That withering dry heat we specialize in up here in the high country. The only answer then is to head still higher up and we have plenty of that. Up above the town of Pagosa Springs, west of Alamosa, CO, sprawls the massive and famously rugged Weminiche Wilderness area. This is the largest roadless area in Colorado. This is the type of place where the topo maps can leave you unprepared, where you’re forever
surprised by the next ridge and where you’re likely to come face to face with a grass-munching bighorn sheep. At one time the government and Robber Barons believed this land was chockful of gold and a backpacking trip into the highlands reveals the remains of mining camps, ore crushing facilities and odd holes in the ground from the prospectors who long ago disappeared. From Pagosa Springs you can easily access any number of the trailheads that lead into cooler areas just upslope — 12,640 foot high Pagosa Peak is a popular one to climb and the views from the top are stunning. From nearby Wolf Creek Pass you can easily pick up the Continental Divide Trail and head north to wildflower fields framing aquamarine alpine lakes, or east to the many trails and streams of South Fork. Award-winning writer and photographer Jim O’Donnell lives in Taos and is the author of Notes for the Aurora Society: 1500 Miles on Foot Across Finland and Rise and Go.
AUGUST 15-31 SUMMER MUSIC FESTIVAL Ida Kavafian, Artistic Director
TWISTED Jewelry, beads & classes
505.919.8797 Wed-Sat (10-6) Angel Fire
ANGEL FIRE TAOS LAS VEGAS RATON
TICKETS & INFO (575) 377-3233 Toll Free (888) 377-3300 musicfromangelfire.org
This project funded in part by public funds from Angel Fire and Raton Lodgers’ Tax, and New Mexico Arts, a division of the Dept. of Cultural Affairs.
Conquer the Mountain
Come into Mountain Sports, the only full sporting goods store in Angel Fire. Check out our complete line of retail and rental options in Golf, Tennis, Camping, Fishing and so much more. Focused, excellent customer service.
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Historic Hotels HOTEL LA FONDA de TAOS The oldest hotel in Taos is new again. In the heart of the historic district on Taos Plaza, La Fonda offers 21st Century amenities while preserving its rich Southwestern roots and ambience. Home to Mosaic Fine Dining, Noula’s Starbucks Coffee Shop, and the D.H. Lawrence “Forbidden Art Collection.” 19 rooms, 5 suites, and our Plaza Penthouse. Friendly, personal service. Walking distance to galleries, museums, shopping, entertainment, fine dining.
108 South Plaza, Taos, New Mexico www.LaFondaTaos.com 800.833.2211 575.758.2211
ST. JAMES HOTEL Where western history – and the paranormal – come alive. The historic St. James Hotel, built in 1872, has hosted a smorgasbord of famous outlaws and Wild West legends including Clay Allison, William F. Cody and Wyatt Earp. Today, it continues its tradition with fine dining and comfortable rooms and a restored western restaurant and bar. Ghosts, each with their own obsessions and rituals, are said to still haunt the place.
617 South Collison, Cimarron, New Mexico, 87714 www.exstjames.com 888.376.2664 575.376.2664
STRATER HOTEL Experience the Old West at the historic Strater Hotel in Durango, located one hour east of Mesa Verde National Park and two blocks north of the famous Durango Train. Stay at the Strater and you’ll be downtown, immersed in Victorian opulence. We’re home to the Diamond Belle Saloon, The Office Spiritorium, Mahogany Grille, and the Henry Strater Theatre featuring The Dame of Durango melodrama June 27 – Aug. 30, 2014. Create Your Memories From Our Corner of the World.
699 Main Ave., Durango, Colorado 800.247.4431 970.247.4431
THE HISTORIC TAOS INN Experience Southwestern charm and history at The Historic Taos Inn in the heart of Taos. Acclaimed by National Geographic Traveler as “One of America’s Great Inns,” and listed on the National and NM Registers of Historic Places. 44 rooms and suites, most with Pueblo-style fireplaces. Award-winning Doc Martin’s Restaurant and Adobe Bar on premises. Happy hour 4-6 Mon-Fri; free live music nightly.
125 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos, New Mexico taosinn.com 575.758.2233 PHOTO COURTESY WWW.HOTELSTFRANCIS.COM / JEFF CAVEN
Outfitters The Solitary Angler “Quality Year-Round Fly
Los Rios River Runners Whitewater Rafting in Taos,
Fishing Without the Crowds.”
Santa Fe, and Albuquerque for 40
Guided fly fishing trips to wild
Years. New Mexico’s oldest, most
river canyons, mountain lakes
experienced rafting company!
and streams. Best guides and best private water around. Hacienda
Los Rios has more access to
and cabins available on the Cimarron River. Owner, Van Beacham is the author of Flyfisher’s Guide to New Mexico.
www.TheSolitaryAngler.com 226C North Pueblo Road, Taos, NM 866-502-1700
Eske’s Paradise Balloons The only balloon company in Taos with a perfect safety record! Hot air balloon rides into and over the Rio Grande Gorge since 1991. Flights at dawn with a ride into the desert outside Taos, inflation of the huge lighter-than-air craft, boarding the basket and floating upward with an experi-
NM rivers than any other rafting company, and the best-trained, most fun rafting guides. White-knuckle whitewater trips on the Rio Grande • Star-filled river camping in the majestic Rio Chama canyon •
Serene feast and float trips with Native Pueblo Indian guides
www.LosRiosRiverRunners.com email@example.com 800-544-1181 575-776-8854
Big River Rafting The ultimate NM Whitewater Rafting Adventure! Big River Rafts has been guiding NM rafting trips and tours since 1983. Your adventure begins just 20 minutes
enced, licensed pilot. Champagne brunch and celebration included.
south of Taos, NM. We offer rafting trips to suit every need, every
Call for reservations and rates.
skill level. Relaxing dinner floats or exciting rapid rides down the
www.TaosBallooning.com firstname.lastname@example.org 575-751-6098
Red River Offroad
Rio Grande River, delicious picnics. Mild to wild rafting trips. Operating March-November. Large and small groups welcome.
www.BigRiverRafts.com bigriverbilly@yahoocom 1-800-RIVER-GO 575-758-9711
Take your family on a 4 x 4 adventure to remember! Our guided offroad four-wheel jeep tours bring you up close to the beauty of Red River’s mountain trails and aspen groves, spectacular views and wildlife. Stop and see forgotten gold mines and pan for gold. We offer UTV rentals, river rafting, cowboy dinners. Package tours available. Snowmobile and snowcat tours in winter.
www.RedRiverOffroad.com email@example.com 575-754-6335
Cutthroat Fly Fishing Steve Morris of Cutthroat Fly Fishing offers guided fly fishing trips on the Cimarron, Red River, Rio Grande, Costilla Creek / Valle Vidal, and other rivers. Equipment included. Beginners, experts, and the whole family are welcome. Best Rates. 20 years experience.
On The Green Angel Fire Resort Golf & Country Club – Angel Fire, NM Take your game to a higher level – like 8,700 feet – at Angel Fire Resort Golf Course and Country Club. Situated within the Sangre de Cristo mountains of northern New Mexico, our 18-hole championship course offers challenging golf and spectacular views at every turn. With a $17 million, state-of-the-art Country Club clubhouse, Angel Fire Resort boasts over 6,600 yards of unforgettable high-altitude golf. Affordable spring & summer golf and lodging packages are available. Fees: $59-$89, including cart. Golf & Lodging Package Information: 855.926.3937 / Pro Shop: 575.377.4488 www.AngelFireResort.com
Marty Sanchez Links de Santa Fe – Santa Fe, NM Known as the City of Santa Fe’s finest municipal golf course since 1998, Marty Sanchez Links de Santa Fe offers a spectacular golf experience with inspirational 360-degree panoramic views that surround the Sangre de Cristos, Jemez, Ortiz and Sandia mountains. Located eight miles west of the historical downtown district, our world-class golf course offers a 35-station all-grass driving range, practice greens, bunker, Pro Shop, rentals and The Links Bar And Grill. Perfect for practicing a short game or a quick round of golf, “The Great 28” has been named one of Travel & Leisure’s “Top Three Big Little Courses in the United States.” Open daily. Fees: $9-$47, including cart. 505.955.4400 or toll-free 888.735.4657. www.LinksdeSantaFe.com
Black Mesa Golf Club – La Mesilla, NM Located north of Santa Fe and southwest of Taos is New Mexico’s newest course, a Native American-owned golf club with a charming tin-roofed, territorial-style clubhouse. Approaching the front desk you are greeted by a small sign: BIG COURSE—BIG MEDICINE. At the 385-yard par-four opener, just past the rusty windmill spinning away in the Jemez Range breeze, you’re asked to launch a blind tee shot some 220 yards over a cactus-studded ridge between a pond and arroyo. The course is definitely challenging and worth a short dogleg off the beaten path. 505.747.8946 www.blackmesagolfclub.com
Taos Country Club – Taos, NM Play one of the top rated golf courses in New Mexico in a spectacular setting between the Rocky Mountains and the Sangre de Cristos. Measuring 7,302 yards from the back tees, this Jep Wille linksstyle design is open to the public and has gently rolling terrain with four sets of tees to make the course enjoyable to all. The Terrace Bar and Grill is a great place to finish your round: a gorgeous patio, delectable food, and refreshing beverages; or hold a special event for your family or company. We have PGA Professionals, a fully-equipped pro shop and practice facility. 575.758.7300 www.TaosCountryClub.com
Towa Golf Resort – Santa Fe, NM Towa Golf Club is part of the AAA Four Diamond Buffalo Thunder Resort and Casino, which is located only 15 short minutes north of the renowned Santa Fe Plaza. Towa is a magnificient collection of 27 holes designed by Hale Irwin and Bill Phillips. With a full array of amenities including a driving range, putting greens, full service club house with food and beverage service, pro shop, professional staff and grounds, Towa is a golfer’s paradise featuring the only island green in New Mexico. Please call for tee times and current rates. 505.455.9000 or toll-free 877.465.3489 www.BuffaloThunderResort.com hawk-media.com
Time to Dine
BENT STREET CAFE & DELI – 120 Bent Street, Taos. 575-758-5787. A local favorite with menu selections to satisfy every palate. Served in a relaxed atmosphere featuring a year-round heated patio and outdoor terrace. Omelettes, eggs Benedict, gourmet French toast, excellent sandwiches, creative salads and homemade soups and desserts. Daily specials, chicken or beef burrito and tamale plates. Vegetarian and vegan friendly. Beer and wine. Open 7 days for breakfast, lunch, Sunday brunch. BentStreetDeli.com
GUTIZ – 812B Paseo del Pueblo Norte, 575-758-1226. Delicious and affordable breakfast and lunch with a Latin-French flair. Fresh baked bread and pastries. Sauces and dishes from scratch. Creative breakfasts, sandwiches and salads. Seafood, vegetarian and gluten-free options. Try our signature mint lemonade or spiced Sangria. Beer and wine, coffee and espresso and an irresistible selection of sweet treats. Patio is open during warmer months. Open Tuesday-Sunday / 8 am - 3 pm. GutizTaos.com
DOC MARTIN’S RESTAURANT – 1/2 block N of Taos Plaza in The Historic Taos Inn, 575-7581977. Fresh, casual dining in a historic setting. Winner of Wine Spectator’s “Best Of Award Of Excellence” for over 25 consecutive years. Innovative Regional New American Cuisine using the freshest local ingredients, specializing in organic vegetables, meats and fish, including favorites like buffalo, elk, trout. 26
Beautiful patio and elegant dining rooms. Open for Lunch Mon-Sat 11:30 - 2:30, Sunday Brunch 10:30 - 2:30. Happy Hour upstairs in the TreeHouse Bar & Lounge 2:30 - 5:30.Dinner served 5:30 - close. Open 7 days. LambertsOfTaos.com
PIZANOS PIZZA & PASTA – No. 23 Hwy. 150. 575-776-1050. A family friendly restaurant, specializing in hand-tossed N.Y. style pizza, pasta, sandwiches, hot wings and more. Gluten-free options. Beer & wine. Patio dining, spectacular views. Dine in or take out. Voted #1 Pizza in Taos. 7 days. 11 amclose. Menu at taospizza.com House-made desserts. Lunch, dinner, weekend brunch. Reservations recommended. Visit us: DocMartinsRestaurant.com
Taos Plaza. We feature TWO happy hours: Monday thru Friday 3 - 5:30 pm and again 9 - 10 pm.
FARMHOUSE CAFE and BAKERY – Three
– Two locations in Taos: Southside – 1384 Paseo del Pueblo Sur. 575-751-0063. Northside – 822 Paseo del Pueblo Norte. 575-737-0816. “Our secret sauce makes the difference!” Authentic Mexican food in New Mexico. Seafood, Chile Rellenos, Azteca Quesadilla, Camarones a la Diabla, Ceviche and so much more. Beer, Wine, Agave Margaritas. Open 7 days a week, 10:30 am - 9 pm weekdays; 10:30-9:30 pm weekends. Full menu online: GuadalajaraGrillTaos.com
miles N. of Taos Plaza at Overland Ranch. 575-758-LOVE (5683). Farm-to-table local organic cuisine. Grass-fed burger, green chile chicken stew, daily quiche. House-made soups, salads and a variety of vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options. Incredible assortment of artisan breads, croissants, tarts, muffins, cheesecakes, cookies and more. Specialty coffees, fresh organic grab-and-go items. Open 8 am-3 pm Tues-Sat, 10 am-3 pm Mon. Breakfast, lunch, extended hours. FarmhouseCafeAndBakery.com
– Taos Plaza. Stop by The Gorge and try some of our juicy burgers, hand-shaken margaritas, or fresh oysters. There is something for everyone in your family. Enjoy the Best Happy Hour in Taos while sitting on our patio overlooking the
LAMBERT’S OF TAOS – 123 Bent Street. 575-7581009. Voted Best of Taos: Best Restaurant. Lambert’s strives to create a sanctuary for our guests. With excellent service, enjoy delicious food and scrumptious desserts, all house-made from scratch. Extensive wine list and specialty cocktails in a relaxed yet refined atmosphere.
RICKY’S – Located 2 1/2 blocks south of Taos Plaza at 312 Paseo del Pueblo Sur. 575-7581156. A locals’ favorite. Breakfast, lunch and dinner specials daily. Great New Mexican and American dishes at family oriented prices. Kid’s menu available. 80% of our dishes available vegetarian. Dine in or take out. Open 7 days from 7 am to 8 pm.
TAOS PIZZA OUT BACK – 712 Paseo del Pueblo Norte. 575-758-3112. We start each morning with organic flour and fresh produce to create our acclaimed hand-rolled pizzas. Our reclaimed adobe abode is the perfect setting for fun, foam and feasting. Enjoy a unique Taos experience where the three local cultures relax and mingle with international travelers. Open daily 11 am. Visit us: TaosPizzaOutback.com
RED RIVER SUNDANCE – High Street at Copper King. 575-754-2971. HighCountry 2014
Same great food, same great service. Celebrating our 41st year. Steaks, salads and excellent Mexican food. Great sopaipillas! Specials include: shrimp fajitas and quesadillas. Frozen wine Margaritas. Reservations welcome. Call for to-go orders. Open nightly at 5 pm.
ANGEL FIRE ANGEL FIRED PIZZA – Located on the second floor of the Mountain View mall (next to the Lowe’s Valley market). 575377-2774. Voted “Best of Angel Fire.” We serve specialty pizzas, baked pastas, calzones, and salads all in a fun relaxed atmosphere. Gluten-free options available. A wide selection of handcrafted beers and fine wines is available. Dine in or take out. Open Tues-Sun 11 am - 9 pm. Daily Happy Hour.
– Located in the lobby of The Lodge at Angel Fire Resort. 575-3774234. Serving Starbucks specialty coffees, smoothies, and freshly baked goods daily. Annie’s dishes up delicious full breakfasts and lunches, including homemade breakfast burritos (a local favorite), tasty omelettes cooked to order, gourmet paninis and sandwiches, fresh salads and homemade dressings. Beer, wine and spirits also available. Open daily 7 am - 4 pm, with extended hours during peak periods.
ELEMENTS at THE COUNTRY CLUB – Located on the upper level of the Angel Fire Resort Country Club. 575-3773055. Open to the public year-round. Enjoy mountain-view fine dining, great appetizers, a full bar and wine selection, private dining rooms and group event spaces. Dining room is open Tuesday-Saturday 5 pm - 9 pm. Bar and lounge is open Tuesday-Saturday 4 pm close. Extended hours during peak periods.
H2 UPTOWN – 48 North Angel Fire Road. 575-377-1200. Casual mountain style dining with an upscale experience, where you’re treated like family. Serving specially seasoned charbroiled steaks, wild game, pastas, fine wine, draft beer and much more. An unforgettable experience at an hawk-media.com
affordable price. Open for lunch and dinner. Reservations for dinner are suggested. Also visit Café Expresso 575-377-6669 for hearty breakfast and lunch, or Hatcha’s Grill 575-377-7011 for homemade red or green chile enchiladas!
LEGENDS GRILL – Located on the second floor of The Lodge at Angel Fire Resort. 575-377-4201. A great place for the whole family. Proudly serving 1/2 lb. Angus beef burgers, sandwiches, salads, pastas, chicken fried steak and more. Great selection of craft beers on tap. Sports on the big screens! Open daily 4 pm - 9 pm.
PUB ‘N GRUB – Located at the Angel Fire Village Center Plaza on N. Angel Fire Road. 575-377-2335. A family-friendly pub with 20 craft beers on tap including a draft style root beer. Fine dining with gourmet chefs in a rustic yet casual environment. Open daily, 5-9 pm. Join us Fridays 8-10 pm for Club Pub with DJ Dance Tunes, and Sundays 7-9 pm for Open Mike.
SUNSET GRILLE – 10 Five Springs Road across from the Chile Express Chairlift. 575-377-6681. Lunch menu includes nachos, homemade soups, half-pound burgers, sandwiches and salads. Dinner entrées include steak, hand-breaded chicken fried steak, fish, chicken and pasta dishes. Full bar, fine wine, and six beers on tap. Kids’ menu also available. Happy hour Monday through Thursday. Come enjoy our deck and beautiful views.
‘The living room of Taos’ e
MOST AWARDED TAOS BUSINESS! TAOS LOCALS VOTED US:
BEST OF TAOS 2014 BEST BAR
BEST MARGARITA BEST PATIO BEST LODGING
CIMARRON SAINT JAMES HOTEL – 17th and Collison in Cimarron. Reservations recommended. 575-376-2664. Landmark on the Santa Fe Trail, the St. James has been known for its fine dining since 1872. Menu includes hand cut steaks, New Mexico favorites, homemade soups and desserts. Select from a variety of beers, fine wines or a specially-made cocktail all served from the antique bar. New breakfast menu. Open daily 7 am - 9 pm. For more, visit us online at ExStJames.com
575 758 2233 AdobeBar.com in the Historic Taos Inn 125 Paseo del Pueblo Norte
2014 Summer Calendar
May 17 Taos Home and Garden Expo 17-18 Rio Pueblo Open Disc Golf Tournament, Sipapu 24 Chairlift Rides & Disc Golf, through August, Red River 22 Taos Plaza Live, through September 4 24-25 Veteran’s Memorial Softball Tournament, Angel Fire 29 AFMGA Tournament, Angel Fire Resort 29 Summer Chairlift Rides, ongoing, Angel Fire 30-June 1 Red River Classic Car Show 30-31 Sipapu Shindig 31 Mountain West Vintage Trials Association Event, Sipapu 31-June 1 Taos Chamber Music Group, Spring Serenade
June 2 4 6 6 6-9 6-7 7-8 7-8 8 9-13 13 13 13-14 13-15 14 20-22 21 21 21 28
Theatre performances, Pagosa Springs, ongoing Red Willow Farmer’s Market, Taos Pueblo, Wednesdays Little Britches Youth Rodeo, South Fork Free Flyfishing Clinics, ongoing, Pagosa Springs Folk n’ Bluegrass Festival, Pagosa Springs River & Brews Blues Fest, Red River Oso High Mountain Bike Race, Angel Fire New Mexico Enduro Race, Angel Fire South Fork Farmers Market, ongoing Sipapu Water Fun Workshop Shortgrass Music Festival, Cimarron San Antonio Feast Day, Taos Pueblo Day Out With Thomas, Chama Fine Art & Wine Festival, Red River Kid’s Fishing Derby, South Fork USA Cycling Gravity Mountain Bike Nationals, Angel Fire Angel Fire Endurance Run, AF Resort Holy Angels Golf Tournament, Angel Fire Angel Fire Wellness Fair 2014, Community Center
21-22 Cimarron Days Along The Santa Fe Trail 21-25 Red River Family Encampment 26 Arbor Day Celebration, Red River 27-29 Territorial Days, Chama 28 Knife & Tomahawk Championship, South Fork 28-29 Rough Riders 200 Road Biking Tour, Angel Fire 28-July 6 Burris & Sons Rodeo Series, South Fork
July 1-7 Living History Rendezvous, Eagle Nest 3-Aug 30 Michael Martin Murphey’s Rockin’ 3M Chuckwagon Suppers, Red River 4 Fourth of July Parades & Ceremonies, all areas 4 Keller Williams Cookout, Eagle Nest 5 Movies Under The Stars, Fridays in July, Angel Fire 5 Gran Fondo Cycling Race – Taos, Mora, Angel Fire 11 Noche del Rancho: Fiestas For The Arts, Eagle Nest 11-13 Taos Pueblo Pow Wow 12 Toast of Taos Arts & Wine Festival, Taos Country Club 12 Full Moon Hike, Taos Ski Valley 12-13 Reach New Heights Softball Tournament, Angel Fire 12-13 Angel Fire ArtsFest 13 South Fork Summer Concert Series, ongoing 18 Logger Days Festival, South Fork 18-20 Las Fiestas de Taos, Taos Plaza 18-19 Renaissance and Pirate Festival, Pagosa Springs 19 Veterans Wellness & Healing Golf Tournament, Angel Fire 19 Angel Fire Garden Club Tour of Mountain Gardens 20 Disc Golf Tournament, Pagosa Springs 25-26 High Country Arts and Crafts Festival, Eagle Nest 25-26 Feast Days of Santiago and Santa Ana, Taos Pueblo 26 Turquoise Ball, Old Martina’s Hall, Taos 26-27 Veterans Wellness & Healing Golf Tournament, Angel Fire HighCountry 2014
Co-Ed Mixed Softball Tournament, Eagle Nest Chimney Rock Crafts & Culture Festival, Pagosa Springs
August 1 Four Corners BMW Meet & Greet Drive, Pagosa 1-3 2014 Archuleta County Fair, Pagosa 2 Dulcimer Festival, Red River 2 XTERRA Pagosa Springs Triathlon 2 Cowboy Fast Draw Colorado State Championship, Pagosa 2-3 Angel Fire Flames Softball Challenge 7 Buckaroo Ball, Red River Valley 8-9 Bud Light North East State Softball Tourney, Eagle Nest 8-10 Chama Days 9 Rhythms on the Rio Music Festival, South Fork 11 Fun Valley Arts & Crafts Fair, South Fork 14-16 Hot Chili Days, Cool Mountain Nights, Red River 15-31 Music From Angel Fire, 31st Season 23 Devil Mountain Ultra 50/50 Marathon, Pagosa Springs 29 Four Corners Folk Festival, Pagosa 30-31 Memorial Brick Laying & Run for the Wall, Eagle Nest 30 A Russian Night in Taos, Taos Art Museum 30-Sept 1 Gravity Games, Angel Fire Bike Park 30-31 Budweiser Wheeler Peak Softball Tournament, Eagle Nest 30-31 Miss NM Saloon Girl, Laguna Vista Lodge, Eagle Nest 30-31 Angel Fire Parade of Homes 30- Sept 2 Angel Fire Free Ride Festival
September 4-6 5-6 6 6-7 7
Big Barn Dance Music Festival, Taos Ski Valley Bavarian Weekend BMW Motorcycle Rally, Taos Ski Valley NM Enduro Mountain Bike Race Finals, Eagle Nest Rio Costilla Valley Studio Tour, Costilla Enchanted Circle Century Bike Tour, Red River
7 TPA Motorcycle Offroad Event, South Fork 13-14 Co-Ed Mixed Softball Tournament, Eagle Nest 19-21 Shortgrass Music Festival, Cimarron 19-21 ColorFest Weekend 2014 Balloon Fest, Pagosa Springs 21-28 Fishfest, Eagle Nest Lake 26-28 Aspencade Performing Arts & Crafts Fair, Red River 27 Quick Draw and Live Art Auction, TCA 27 Mountain Chile Cha Cha Race and Food Fest, Pagosa 27-28 Drew Judycki Memorial Disc Golf Tournament, Red River 29-30 San Geronimo Eve and Day, Taos Pueblo 30-Sept 1 New Mexico Trials Association Annual Event, Sipapu
October 8-11 10-12 10-12 11-12 11-12 17
Fall Color Watercolor Workshop, Sipapu Oktoberfest in Red River Fall for Antiques, Millicent Rogers Museum Angel Fire Resort Bike Park Season Close-Out Pagosa Makers Expo & Tour Chile Cook-Off, South Fork
Info ANGEL FIRE CHAMA CIMARRON DURANGO EAGLE NEST PAGOSA SPRINGS RED RIVER SANTA FE SOUTH FORK TAOS COUNTY TAOS PUEBLO TAOS SKI VALLEY
800-446-8117 800-477-0149 575-376-2417 970-247-3500 800-494-9117 800-252-2204 800-348-6444 800-777-2489 800-571-0881 800-732-8267 575-758-1028 800-517-9816
Dates subject to change. Check with local chambers for updated information. 29
Music From Angel Fire Music from Angel Fire celebrates its 31st summer music festival August 15-31, 2014. An impressive array of works from the great Baroque, Classical, Romantic and Contemporary masters are performed in 14 concerts in the beautiful New Mexico mountain communities of Angel Fire, Taos, Raton and Las Vegas. Violinist Ida Kavafian celebrates her 30th year as festival Artistic Director and is joined by the Donald Sinta Saxaphone Quartet and classical dancer Dona Wiley as well as a host of internationally renowned artists. Bright Sheng is the 2014 Composer-in-Residence. Tickets range from $20 - $40. For more information call (888) 377-3300 or go to www.MusicFromAngelFire.org
Fiestas de Taos July 18-20, 2014. The Annual Fiestas de Taos weekend fills Taos Plaza with Spanish Folk music, northern New Mexican cuisine and native dance. Four centuries of Taos culture are celebrated with high-spirited fervor. Share and enjoy delicious cuisine, traditional music and fellowship, while honoring the cultural uniqueness of Taos. Be sure to catch the famous Historical Parade on Sunday afternoon – where mounted conquistadores mingle with tribal dancers, French fur trappers and eyepopping floats. For more, visit www.FiestasDeTaos.com 30
Michael Hearne’s 12th Annual Big Barndance Music Festival
Grady Champion at the 2013 Animas River Blues & Brews Fest
9th Annual Animas River Blues & Brews Fest July 18-19, 2014. This Festival in Aztec, NM brings in the finest Blues bands in from all over the US. Friday night July 18 at CRASH Music in the Historic Aztec Theater features two bands. The all day Saturday July 19 event features five Blues bands with Teresa James & the Rhythm Tramps as the headline band. Saturday’s outdoor festival features plenty of food, brews, wine and colorful vendors on site to complete your day. For complete information and tickets, visit us online at www.AnimasRiverBlues.com
September 4-6, 2014 – This oneof-a-kind, world class music festival is again held at a one-of-a-kind, world class location… the mountain at Taos Ski Valley! A listening room experience in a festival setting, come experience some of the most diverse and well-respected names in Traditional Country, Americana and Folk music… along with some good old fashioned “boot scootin’.” Performers include Michael Hearne, Trout Fishing In America, Chuck Cannon, Walt & Tina Wilkins, Susan Gibson, Jimmy Davis, Owen Temple, South by Southwest, The Rifters and many more! For information on lodging packages and ticketing, visit www.MichaelHearne.com
Spanish Peaks International Celtic Music Festival The Celtic Music Festival celebrates its 10th anniversary, September 25-28 with great Celtic musicians and singers. Featured are the hugely popular FullSet band from Ireland, special guest Jessie Burns, long-time fiddler with the famed band Gaelic Storm, and the amazing uilleann piper, Jerry O’Sullivan. Four days packed with concerts, instrumental and singing workshops, session playing with the pros and dancing. For details and advanced discount tickets check www.CelticMusicFest.com HighCountry 2014
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YOUR ADVENTURE AWAITS Set off on an adventure you will never forget. Soar through the air on New Mexico’s first and only Zipline Tour. Explore the sixty plus miles of world-class mountain bike trails. Challenge yourself on our scenic 18-hole championship golf course. Indulge yourself at any one of our delicious restaurants. Try one or try them all and package it with your choice of lodging and save big this summer!
This is how life is meant to be lived, so bring all you’ve got. We are sure you will not be disappointed.
WHAT ARE YOU WAITING FOR? JUST 23 MILES EAST OF TAOS 855.926.3937 | Visit us on Facebook & Twitter www.angelfireresort.com
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