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UIAA Standard

(UIAA = Union Internationale des Associations d窶連lpinisme)

Mountaineering and Climbing Equipment

Ice Tools

January 2004

UIAA 152

(Axes and Hammers) Foreword This UIAA Standard is only published in the English language, which is the master text. If anybody requires help in validating a translation into French, German, Italian or Spanish, the corresponding National Delegate of the UIAA Safety Commission should be contacted via the UIAA Office in Bern, Switzerland. This UIAA Standard is based on the European Standard EN 13089 in order to prevent unnecessary multiplicity of standards. The EN Standards are in turn based on the former UIAA Standards (the UIAA Standards were the first standards for mountaineering and climbing equipment in the world). However, this UIAA Standard has additional requirements above those in EN 13089. Owing to copyright restrictions, this UIAA Standard does not state the requirements of EN 13089 to which it refers. Hence it is necessary to obtain a copy of EN 13089. EN Standards can be purchased from various Standards Institutions. The UIAA Standards are reviewed at intervals to see whether they meet the latest technical requirements and revised, if necessary. The UIAA invites manufacturers of mountaineering and climbing equipment worldwide to become Trade Members of the UIAA Safety Commission. Trade Members can participate in discussions on standard requirements, test methods, and revisions thereof (see the General Regulations for the UIAA Label). A complete list of UIAA Standards for mountaineering and climbing equipment can be found on the UIAA Website. The UIAA Safety Commission, which is responsible for the UIAA Standards, expects that the corresponding EN Standard will be updated in due course to include the additional requirements of the UIAA Standard. ツゥ UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d窶連lpinisme) Copyright is secured for the present standard work including all its parts. Any use beyond the limit of the copyright act is forbidden by law. This concerns especially copying, microfilming and feeding and processing in electronic data systems.


UIAA Standard 152

1.

page 2

General Remarks on the UIAA Trademark and UIAA Label

1.1. The UIAA Trademark (see section 5.1.) is copyright protected internationally. The UIAA Label is only given to items of mountaineering and climbing equipment after application from the manufacturer. 1.2. The procedure to be followed by a manufacturer, when applying for a UIAA Label, is laid down in the General Regulations for the UIAA Label (see also How to Obtain a UIAA Label).

2.

Requirements for Ice Tools

2.1. The UIAA Label can only be granted for ice tools that meet all the requirements of EN 13089, with the following exception: 2.1.1.

No EN number required.

2.2. For the award of the UIAA Label, the following additional safety requirements shall be met: 2.2.1. or

Ice tools shall have, either, (a) an attachment device, intended for attachment to the users hand or body, (b) a hole in the head or shaft of the ice tool, for attaching a sling.

2.2.1.1. For an ice tool type T (technical), the attachment device in accordance with 2.2.1. (a) shall have a minimum breaking strength of 2.0 kN. 2.2.1.2. For an ice tool type B (basic), the strength of any attachment device is not defined. 2.2.1.3. The hole in accordance with 2.2.1. (b) shall have a minimum diameter of 7.0 mm and shall be free from sharp edges which might damage a textile sling. If the hole is in the shaft, it shall be situated in that half of the ice tool which includes the head. 2.2.2.

Test Method

2.2.2.1. For an ice tool type T (technical) with an attachment device, mount the ice tool at its head and load the attachment device by a bar of (10 Âą 0.1) mm diameter as shown in the figure. 2.2.2.2. For an ice tool with a hole for attaching a sling, pass a pin of (7 Âą 0.01) mm diameter through the hole.


UIAA Standard 152

page 3

Strength test of the attachment device

3.

Demonstrating that the Requirements are met

3.1.

The requirements of section 2.1. shall be satisfied by either (a) a test report from a UIAA-approved test laboratory, or

(b) a Type Test Certificate from an EU Notified Body, together with any additional documentation or test report which may be necessary. 3.2. The requirements of section 2.2. shall be satisfied by the manufacturer certifying that the product meets these particular requirements. 3.3. In sections 3.1. (a), every test shall be carried out on three items of production, and every item of production shall pass the test(s).


UIAA Standard 152 4.

page 4

Information to be supplied

4.1. The information to be supplied (in accordance with EN 13089) shall be given at least in the language of the country in which the product is sold. 5.

Attachment of the UIAA Label

5.1. For any model of mountaineering equipment, which has been awarded the UIAA Label, the UIAA recommends that the UIAA Trademark (see below) or the four letters "UIAA" be marked clearly, indelibly and permanently on each item sold.

5.2. In addition, the UIAA Trademark or the four letters "UIAA" may be included in the instructions for use and/or on a swing ticket as well as in catalogues and other publications of the manufacturer. In the last case, the illustration and/or the text must clearly apply only to the equipment which has been awarded the UIAA Label.



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