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HARBORS Connecting People, Places, Adventure and Lifestyle.

Blackfish Lodge

Northern BC

Jay Leno

Motorcycle Enthusiast

Flying Heritage Collection Restored WWII Aircraft

Shellfish Farming Sunshine Coast

Beavers

New Spirits

Victoria, BC

Historic Seaplanes

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EXPERIENCE

Hands-On HISTORY

The Center for Wooden Boats is a hands-on maritime museum located on Seattle’s Lake Union, a stone’s throw away from Kenmore Air. Rent a boat, learn to sail or just marvel at the forces that make planes fly and sailboats sail.

Both adults and youth can learn to sail in historic wooden sailboats. Non-sailors can rent a rowboat and enjoy a floating picnic in the middle of the city. Do-it-yourselfers can build a wooden boat, cast a bronze oarlock or learn classical navigation.

A short walk through Lake Union Park will take you from Kenmore Air’s Lake Union Terminal to Wooden Boat Paradise. ...And Admission is FREE!

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FALL 2012

Features

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Blackfish Lodge

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Shellfish: Along the Salish Sea

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Flying Heritage Collection

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New Spirits of Victoria

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Kenmore Air Destination Maps

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South Lake Union - Seattle

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A Day with Jay Leno

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Beavers

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Sweet Delights

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Northwest Author Spotlight

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Travel Savvy

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Fall Flyaways

Where Saltwater Salmon and Freshwater Steelhead Collide

Bounties of the Sea

Restoration of World War II Aircraft

Micro-distillery on Vancouver Island, BC

South Zone / North Zone

Cover Photograph Powell River Sunset,BC —Barb Rees

Tom Douglas’ Culinary Summer Camp

Motorcycle Enthusiast

Little Planes That Just Won’t Quit

Vancouver’s Chocolate Scene

San Juan Island’s Karyn F. King

A Traveler’s Guide to Tipping

Lake Washington • Orcas Island • Victoria

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volume 3 issue 4 HA R B OR S The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine CONTACT P.O. Box 1393 Port Townsend, WA 98368

E: info@harborsmagazine.com W: www.harborsmagazine.com

PUBLISHER / EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Katherine S. McKelvey GRAPHIC DESIGN Anika Colvin Creative EDITING Bobbie Hasselbring Vincent Hagel query@harborsmagazine.com CONTRIBUTORS Yvette Cardozo Sue Frause Mark Gardiner Alwynn Gwilt Bobbie Hasselbring

Doreen Pendgracs Barb Rees Terry W. Sheely Doug WIlson

ADVERTISING SALES ads@harborsmagazine.com WEB DESIGN workin’ man creative PHOTO CREDITS Courtesy of:

Troy V. McKelvey, Jr. 1925-2012 This issue is dedicated to my father, Troy V. McKelvey, Jr., who gave me the greatest gift of life. He loved the Pacific Northwest for its fishing, clamming and crabbing. It was a blessing knowing the greatest dad that ever lived. He was my best friend.

Terry W. Sheely, pgs. 12-19 Barb Rees, pgs. 20-23 Doug Wilson, pgs. 24, 27 John M. Dibbs, pgs. 25, 26 (bottom), 29 (top) Flying Heritage Collection, pgs. 26, 28 (middle) Jim Larsen, pgs. 28 (top, bottom), 29 (middle, bottom)

Victoria Spirits, pgs. 30-34 Bobbie Hasselbring, pgs. 40-41 Mark Gardiner, pgs. 42-44 Kenmore Air, pgs. 46-49 Kevin Thomson, pg. 49 (bottom) Thomas Haas Chocolates & Patisserie, pgs. 50 (bottom), 52 Purdy’s Chocolates, pgs. 50 (top), 51 (top)

HARBORS magazine is printed by Journal Graphics, Portland, OR.

HARBORS magazine is printed on recycled paper. DISTRIBUTED BY

PUBLISHED BY

Katherine S. McKelvey Publisher SUBSCRIPTIONS AVAILABLE www.harborsmagazine.com © 2012 by All Ports Media Group

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All rights reserved. Partial or whole reproduction is prohibited. The publisher will not be held responsible for errors in advertising beyond the cost of the space of the ad. No changes may be made or cancellation accepted after the publication deadline date. Opinions expressed in signed articles are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of this magazine or Kenmore Air Harbor, Inc.


HAR B O R S

Welcome to our fall issue of HARBORS magazine.

Harbor Lights A Note from the Publisher

Here Comes Fall… Once again nature is preparing to hibernate for the winter. It makes you want to bundle up, get outside, and defy the elements. Soon the fall air will be cool and the rainy days will be back. Of course, that is what makes Washington and British Columbia so green and healthy in the spring. Fall—known in the travel industry as the ‘shoulder season’—is a great time of year to travel. Rates, like the temperature, will fall on just about everything and there will be fewer people to maneuver. Innkeepers have more time for guests and it’s so relaxing to sit by a warm fireplace and read a good magazine! This issue brings you some attractive destinations to explore and some entertaining articles from yummy Canadian chocolates and spirits to the fascinating aircraft of World War II. With the holidays coming, it’s a great time to share with family and friends, maybe take a quick trip up to Victoria and see some of their festive holiday décor, or visit a cozy B&B up in the San Juans and taste some local wines. Wherever you go, remember to have a joyful holiday season. Enjoy the magazine, your journey, and your destination.

Katherine S. McKelvey Publisher

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HARBORS Travel Club Card

Participating Businesses & Organizations HARBORS Travel Club Members receive a 10% or greater rewards discount at the following participating businesses. The rewards vary by business and are restricted to regular priced merchandise and services. Contact the individual businesses for restrictions and details or go to: www.harborsmagazine.com/travel-club Victoria/Vancouver Island, BC

Abigail’s Hotel Bear Mountain Westin Bear Mountain Golf Resort Brentwood Bay Lodge Delta Victoria Ocean Pointe Resort and Spa Hotel Grand Pacific Fairholme Manor Parkside Victoria Resort & Spa Prestige Oceanfront Resort Prime Steakhouse & Lounge Royal BC Museum Sauce Restaurant & Lounge Sooke Harbour House Victoria Regent Waterfront Hotel Waters Edge Resort at Pacific Rim

San Juan Islands

Orcas Island: Doe Bay Resort & Retreats Orcas Island Golf Course San Juan Island: Afterglow Spa Roche Harbor Bird Rock Hotel Coho Restaurant Crystal Seas Kayaking Day Tours Earthbox Motel & Spa Friday Harbor House Friday Harbor Marine Harrison House Suites Horseshu Guest Ranch Island Inn 123 West Island Wine Company Joe Friday’s Shirt Company Kings Marine Center Orcas Suites States Inn & Ranch San Juan Classic Day Sailing San Juan Excursions, Whale Watching San Juan Vineyards Susie’s Mopeds Trumpeter Inn Bed and Breakfast Tucker House Bed and Breakfast Waterworks Art Gallery

Olympic Peninsula

Bella Italia Restaurant George Washington Inn Gift Shop, Port Angeles Port Ludlow Resort Quileute Oceanside Resort

Northern BC Islands Dent Island Lodge EhaArt, Pender Island Poet’s Cove Resort & Spa Rendezvous Lodge

Seattle

Center for Wooden Boats DiStefano Winery (Woodinville) ExOfficio Holiday Inn Seattle Jillian’s Billiards Kenmore Air Seattle Scenic Flights Kenmore Air Gift Shop Lake Washington Terminal MarQueen Hotel Quality Inn & Suites, Seattle Center Trago Cocina ZUM Fitness

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See www.harborsmagazine.com for additional listings and restrictions.


Welcome to Kenmore Air Canadians know a thing or two about seaplanes. No, they didn’t invent the concept, but with the post-World War II development of the Beaver and Otter by the de Havilland Canada Company, many would say that Canadians perfected the art of seaplane design. That’s the reason Kenmore Air flies an all-de Havilland seaplane fleet. But designing the seaplane is one thing. Putting together a successful seaplane airline is another. Here too, Canadians have set a high standard, and none higher than Vancouver-based Harbour Air. Founded in 1984, Harbour Air is still a youngster in the business compared to us, but they have grown to become the largest all-seaplane airline in the world, and they have done so on the basis of a solid reputation for safety and customer service. It is thus with great pleasure that I introduce you to our new partnership with Harbour Air. Since mid-July, we have moved our operations in Victoria, B.C., to a brand-new dock complex centrally located on the Inner Harbour waterfront. Harbour Air’s staff is providing enthusiastic, professional service to our Victoria passengers, and our shared terminal features many great amenities that will make your next trip between Seattle and Victoria more enjoyable and relaxing than ever. The new partnership also makes it easier than ever before to connect from Seattle to Harbour Air’s great destinations such as downtown Vancouver and Whistler. Downtown-to-downtown service between Seattle and Vancouver via Victoria is scenic and stress-free, with the same simple customs formalities you have grown accustomed to in Victoria and Seattle. Moving forward, we will be working with Harbour Air to make the connecting travel experience even more seamless. We’re confident that our partnership with Harbour Air will be long-lived and successful. Because we, too, know a thing or two about seaplanes!

Todd Banks President

For more information on our new Victoria terminal and its amenities, visit www.KenmoreAir.com /Victoria-BC-Terminal

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The floating Blackfish Lodge complex is anchored in a scenic, protected cove.

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Chameleon-like and highly intelligent, the Giant Pacific Octopus grows bigger and live longer than any other octopus species and provide a thrilling encounter for scuba divers. The largest specimen on record was 30 feet across and weighed more than Blackfish Lodge First Guest, 1989 600 pounds. Averages are more like 16 feet and 110 lbs.


Blackfish Lodge By Terry W. Sheely

Where Saltwater Salmon and Freshwater Steelhead Collide

The black and white photograph is hanging in the hallway just outside the kitchen, framed and faded, but just as impressive as that electrifying day it was taken—August 9, 1989, when Chris Bennett took a deep breath and opened the door on his floating dream: Blackfish Lodge. The angler in the photograph, wearing a black watch cap and a Moby Dick grin, is Mark Funk, and the sagbellied Chinook he’s struggling to hold up for the camera is the rustic little lodge’s first tyee, 46½ pounds. Funk’s guide was Chris Bennett, an energetic, enterprising free spirit of a diehard salmon-steelhead fanatic who is reading the water and running the trolling motor on the boat I fully intend to splatter with salmon scales. And his confidence this June morning is as unbridled as it was 23 years ago—“We’ll get a good fish, I know we will; we always do,” he says, cutting himself no slack even though we’re fishing the front edge of a Chinook season that hasn’t quite arrived. And as it turns out, he’s right. We do. And there’s not another fisherman in sight to see the catch, to poach our hot spot, or to compete for the troll. It’s just Chris and me and a family squadron of bald eagles perched in the mist of the hemlocks, just us alone on a pretty little piece of perfect salmon water. The whole area, in fact, appears to be perfect salmon water, with dozens of mountainous islands, divided by spider webs of fjords, hidden passes, inlets and indistinguishable coves and sounds. The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine

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Freshwater fishermen float the exclusive and super-productive Wakeman River.

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This is Chris and Hannah Bennett’s place, inside the Great Bear Rainforest Preserve, where he built an intimate (six-guest) floating lodge from the water up, using salvaged logs hand milled in the remnant community of Echo Bay, floated to his cove on Baker Island, planed, pounded, polished, and sculpted into a lodge one board at a time. The inconspicuous rafts of lodge seem to belong here, as natural to the bay as the yellow cedars and hemlock that overhang it. Chris is a youngish man with a reddish beard, wild hair, intent eyes, solid handshake, and the creative energy it takes to build a fishing lodge from scratch in the wilderness of the British Columbia’s Inside Passage. Hannah handles the lodge, rides herd on their life-jacketed pre-schoolers, Robin the fly tier and Steven the fisherman, and promises that nothing from her kitchen will come ready-made from a box or a can. Blackfish is by any account a rare find; a homegrown floating lodge, with creative homegrown cuisine (there is a greenhouse float and herb garden) and live Dungeness crab on the dock, tucked into a sliver of a wind-sheltered cove. The lodge is unpretentious and comfortable with a family-sort of casual atmosphere. All salt and fresh water fishing is guided, and it’s so far off the beaten path that I’m still uncertain of where I’ve been. Chris has more than three decades guiding and fishing these waters and his hot spots are scattered in a shattered maze of salmon, halibut, and ling cod options. The lodge and fishing grounds are an hour’s boat ride east of Vancouver Island’s Port McNeill and south of Queen Charlotte Strait. In every direction there is historic salmon water—Knight, Kingcome and Blackfish inlets; Fife Sound; Malcolm, Broughton, Baker, and Gilford islands; Cramer, Arrow, Blunden and Retreat passes. Too many to name, too confusing to locate without the GPS and Chart 46 in Marine Atlas No. 1.


Remote Exclusivity If that list of saltwater who’s-who isn’t enough, Blackfish has a uniquely exclusive quality freshwater option— the Wakeman River. Chris is one of two lodges licensed to fish the Wakeman, a rare Classified II Water so special that it requires an extra $20 daily fishing fee, and has tight provincial controls to protect blue-ribbon runs of winter and summer steelhead, Chinook, C0oho, chums, pinks, and sockeye salmon, cutthroat, rainbows and bull trout. The river is isolated, remote, and wild and the fish strike like they’ve never seen a fly or lure before—because they haven’t. The Wakeman is a tributary to Wakeman Sound which feeds into the hairpin bend in Kingcome Inlet, roadless (except for a short logging twotrack where Chris permanently stations two fish cars for raft shuttles) and inaccessible except by floatplane or boat. Between the maze of saltwater salmon and halibut fishing and the proximity of the Classified Wakeman water, Blackfish Lodge is square at the center of a rare combination of saltwater-freshwater Inside Pass fishing options. The first time my rod pounds down with a serious Chinook streaming line off the Shimano reel, Chris lets out a war whoop and scrambles into action. The final time it bucks and dives into the water, he lets out another war whoop. It’s a good sound. My wife, Natalie, and I had flown directly to the front door of Blackfish from Kenmore Air terminal on the north end of Seattle’s Lake Washington, with a quick stop to clear international customs in Nanaimo. Our plane was a 10-passenger float-equipped de Havilland DHC-3 Otter.

Young Steven gets an inside look at the family business

Raised in a fishing lodge, young Robin shows colorful promise as a fly tyer.

Ever-confident Fish Master Chris Bennett with one of the prime chinook.

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Chris fights a Wakeman steelhead. One of the aggressive sea-run cutthroat we caught at the decaying log landing.

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For me, the flight was unexpected bush-plane convenience from a scheduled-service airline. Blackfish, I learn, is one of about three dozen fishing lodges in the Vancouver Island/Inside Passage region serviced directly by Kenmore Air. The low-altitude flight north across the San Juans, Gulf Islands, Desolation Sound, past Blubber Bay, Blind Channel and Johnstone Strait was spectacular. That it ends at Blackfish Lodge seems almost a bonus. Chris hauls his live crab keeper onto the dock. We pick out appetizers and, by the time we finish unpacking, Hannah has homemade bread, bowls of hot bouillabaisse, steaming crabs and melted butter on the table. While we dive in, all fingers and elbows until we can hold no more, Chris tells us where we are going to be fishing. An hour later, I’m fast to a husky searun cutthroat that eats a small wet fly off a gravel beach in the splintered and grayed skeleton of a long-ago log landing. I could stay and throw flies at these aggressive sea-run trout for hours, but


we came for salmon, and I reluctantly give up the fly rod. Blackfish is a fully guided (10 hours a day) lodge with one 20-foot GradyWhite and two 19-foot open boats, fished one guide and two anglers to a boat. All are equipped with GPS, downriggers, depth sounders, and 4-cycle trolling motors. Lodge-offered saltwater fishing tackle is built around 9-foot mooching rods with single action knuckle-buster reels. Licenses, tackle, bait and fuel are included. At the Wakeman, anglers are handed Sage fly rods, or conventional spinning and casting rods. Or you can bring your own. Resident Chinook in the teens to low 30s, called winter-springs are in this area year-round, but the hottest salmon fishing takes place from July to September when millions of migrating ocean springs (Chinook), Coho, chums, and pinks pass through the maze, hunting for natal streams. In the rare off hours, you can fill a day with halibut to 200 pounds, ling cod, rockfish, and sea-run cutthroat. Most Chinook, Chris says, are in the 20- to 30-pound range, but every year there are a few caught in the 40s and memory makers in the 50s. Non-fishing days (or guests) have kayaks available, a fireplace to read by, picnics in the unique Burdwoods, concentrations of orca and humpback whales, porpoises, dolphins, and wildlife including bears, deer, mink, otter, and beaver. Hannah will also arrange a trip to First Nation woodcarvers and heritage sites. “We’ll customize the day or the trip to whatever you want to do,” Chris assures us. “It’s your trip. Just tell us what you want.” We want to fish. Top, Chris Bennett fishes with intensity. Bottom, Single action mooching rods at work.

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Salmon Fishing at Its Best Chris slides the Grady up to the yellowish foam flecks in a tide rip, rigs UV enhanced flashers and whole anchovies, attaches to the downriggers and we’re Chinook fishing. The first strike comes after the suspense wears off, a pounding rip that shoots line off the reel. This fish has shoulders. How big, I’ll never know. Somewhere, implausibly on a straightway run, the barbless hook just pops out. The summer Chinook migration is just starting and the fish are scattered, the bite slow by Chris’ standards. We change locations and boat our first winter-spring along a rocky cove in Cramer Pass not far from the lodge. Within two hours, we have one 18- pounder in the boat, a couple of other good strikes, and a rambunctious 20-pounder-plus catapults out of the water, dives, and wraps around the line from the second rod, tangles, and disappears. At 7:00 p.m. we call it a day and come back to a hot shower and Hannah’s crab cakes, grilled vegetables, Cornish game hens, and meringue festooned blueberries and strawberries for dessert. Peak saltwater salmon season at Blackfish spans from mid-July through August when runs of migrating kings and Coho intermingle with pinks, chums, and sockeye. Steelhead are hot on the Wakeman as early as April and May, but September is when the river shines with catch-andrelease Coho action, late steelhead, Chinook, trout, and char. Too much fishing—too few months. “We’re open year-round, there’s always something to fish,” Chris says. Mid-summer, of course, is best for salmon. The last day, with rain falling at the 4:00 a.m. wake-up knock, Natalie chooses a few more hours of warm bed, The author is happy to display his last-minute photo Chinook.

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coffee in front of the wood burner, a late breakfast, and wilderness quiet. Chris and I head off in the dark and the rain to a “secret spot.” Herring and tiny candlefish are dimpling the surface, and while the eagles watch, Chris pulls out all of his tricks looking for a photo fish. The rain quits and we troll yards off a rock face with a smear of ancient petroglyphs. White clouds are ghosting off the islands, mist comes and goes, red-legged birds flit, and we catch a small ling cod, a yellowtail rockfish, and another ling. A mink runs up the shore. The eagles grow bored and quit following us. “If this was August, we’d be killing them here,” Chris says. “It’s unbelievable then.” Ten minutes to fish before we absolutely have to head back to pack and catch the floatplane Kenmore Air is sending for us. And the starboard rod bucks, snaps out of the downrigger and plows tip-down into the water. “Grab it, grab it, grab it,” Chris shouts and I’m into it. The Chinook pulls hard, runs fast, rips under the boat, shows itself, dodges the net, dives, runs, sounds, and finally wears down, swings close, and Chris has it in the net. Twenty-one pounds, bright as a dime, thick through the shoulders, prime red fillets, just a handful minutes before the last gasp of the trip. We earned this last-minute spring. And we high-five and laugh, and pose for photos. An eagle buzzes us. Chris grins. And fires up the outboard.

SEATTLE

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The “Crow’s Nest Yachts” brand, a property of Grander, Inc., is licensed for use by Crow’s Nest Yachts Seattle.

Blackfish Lodge www.blackfishlodge.com 206-789-9505 info@blackfishlodge.com Kenmore Air www.kenmoreair.com 866-435-9524

An overview of the Inside Passage water fished from Blackfish Lodge.

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Shellfish: Along the Salish Sea

By Barb Rees

Nearly 8,500 years ago, the ocean sustained the oldest village site along the Salish Sea. In what is now Powell River and Tla’amin Reserve, on British Columbia’s Sunshine Coast, 20,000 people depended on her resources. Today, the ocean’s bounty and the area’s modern shellfish industry continue to feed people in this stunning place of land and sea. People have been harvesting the waters of the Salish Sea for thousands of years. (The term Salish Sea includes the north end of the Strait of Georgia and Desolation Sound to the south end of Puget Sound and west to the mouth of the Strait of Juan de Fuca.) North of Powell River at Gibson’s Beach, there’s a circle of rocks 100 feet in diameter, evidence of a clam garden 2,000 years old. Tides washing over the sides carried nutrients and sediment creating “fluffy” sand, a perfect home for clams. Ancient clam gardens can be found from Sitka, Alaska to Saanich Inlet on British Columbia’s Vancouver Island. The people of Tla’amin still harvest shellfish and they own Grace Bay Oyster Plant. A celebration of the bounties of the sea took place May 25-27 at the 5th Annual Lund Shellfish Festival. (The village of Lund is located at “mile 0” on the north end of the Pacific Coastal Highway on the Sunshine Coast, 124 miles north of Vancouver.) While music thrummed the air, growers from around the region gathered to share the Yellow and black floats are ‘wave dampers’ used as a breakwater for the strings of mussels in black barrels behind them at Taylor Shellfish.

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Bounties of the Sea


Kneeling on the dock, oyster farmer Yves Perreault inspects oyster samples.

delights of the sea. It was a weekend for gastronomic seafood indulgence. A Major Industry The term shellfish includes clams, oysters, mussels, lobster, shrimp, and prawns. The BC Shellfish Grower’s Association says oysters are a $130.6 million industry that creates more than 1,000 jobs. The strength of the industry is evidenced by the many booths at the Shellfish Festival. Taylor Shellfish, a Shelton, Washington based company, has 12 leases in Okeover Inlet plus Fanny Bay Oysters on Vancouver Island. It was started in 1890 by Bill Taylor’s great-grandfather and, today, Bill is a fourth generation grower. He says the majority of the oysters on Powell River area beaches are non-native species brought here in the 1920s and ‘30s from Japan. At the French’s Clam Company tent, oysters were served raw on the half-shell. Owner Bob Paquin, an oyster farmer for 40 years, has two sites on Okeover Inlet where he raises oysters and scallops. He’ll buy 3 million oyster seeds this year from Taylor

Shellfish. In 2011, Bob and his partners, Yves Perreault and Bill Vernon, shipped their first container of oysters to the Philippines. At Bob’s scallop farm, 120,000 scallops are growing. Each lantern net with its 12 apartments holds 240 baby scallops. At one year old the little scallops are put into pearl nets, small pyramid- shaped mesh nets usually about 13 inches across and then into larger lantern nets to finish growing. Sea urchins, the so-called “hedgehogs of the sea,” feed on the scallop shells and help keep the shells clean. After four years, the farm can harvest 30,000 marketable scallops. Former race-car driver Dave Hamoline was looking for a lifestyle change when he took a shellfish course. That convinced him to become a shellfish farmer, and he now owns Coode Island Oyster Farms and harvests mussels, oysters, clams, and scallops. “Every day there’s something new to see: killer whales, a pack of West Coast wolves, or even a bobcat I befriended,” Dave says, grinning. Yves Perreault barbequed oysters for

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Little Wing Oysters. He’s been oysterfarming for 10 years. “I love the challenge. It takes such a variety of skills.” He specializes in 2­—2½ inch oysters for eating raw. The oyster “seed” spends the first four to six weeks in a box in the ocean. They’re moved to a mesh bag for another couple months, then sorted and put into bigger mesh bags. At ¾ inch, they’re ready to harden up on the beach over the winter to be sold the following year. British Columbia buys up half the market, and the rest are exported. The 20 active farms in Okeover Inlet produce one quarter of all the BC Shellfish industry products. The inlet is rich in plankton, it’s the right temperature, and has plenty of fresh water to produce excellent oysters. Still it’s at the mercy of nature. The farms were shut down four months in 2011 due to Paralytic Shellfish Poisoning (PSP), commonly called “red tide.” When the count of phyto planktons exceeds 80 parts per million, beaches and oyster farms are shut down because of the health risk for humans. Unfortunately for scallop growers, the mantle of a scallop holds onto PSP longer than other shellfish. Organic Oysters? As I enjoyed breaded oysters on a skewer prepared by Chris Roberts and André Comeau with Okeover Organic Oysters, I asked, “What makes an oyster organic?” Chris explained that while they are in the seed stage, the hatchery modifies the oyster larvae so they won’t reproduce. They become triploids instead of diploids, the normal oysters found on the beach. In the summer, triploids remain firm; diploids become mushy when they spawn. Top: Colorful ridged scallop shells protect the delicious scallop meat we find in the finest seafood restaurants. Middle: The BC Spotted Prawn is known as the “Cadillac of prawns”. Bottom: From baby to ‘old girl’ at Okeover Organic Oysters.

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Oyster and scallop farmer, Bob Paquin, holding a scallop lantern.

For organic oysters, Chris and André use diploids. The oysters grow on trays and they’re “roughed up,” to create a deeper, rounder shell cup. They grow over the summer, then are laid on the beach to harden over the winter. Any shell “frill” (the beard) growing downward is scraped off by hand so the oyster forms a cup shape. Chris and Andre do everything by hand. They sell oysters from two to three inches up to jumbo six inch ones. The big old ones on the beach, the size of a man’s hand, Chris calls “the old girls.” He leaves them to spawn in perpetuity. “I love my job! I see whales and dolphins and work outdoors,” he says. On the dock, Darren Bolton of Bolton Fishing Company had a lineup of people buying live prawns. Darren started fishing commercially with his dad when he was 11 years old. His

first boat was the old 26-foot Tiara Dawn. Without power tools, he and his girlfriend built 220 prawn traps. In the early ‘90s, they had four strings of 55 traps. The Tiara Dawn burned up, so in 1997 Darren bought the 26-foot Kim Marie, a live boat with 300 traps. The BC Spotted Prawn, “the Cadillac of prawns,” lives in the mud until its shell hardens. From spat (seed) to mature takes five to seven years. They spawn once, starting as a male and becoming a female. Locally based boats generate about $4 million annually with 500,000 pounds of prawns Prawn fishing is a short, eight-week season, but Darren loves his lifestyle. “I am blessed to be able to look after my family with fishing.” As the sun turned the Salish Sea to gold, and the shellfish growers celebrated her bounties, we dove into a pail of prawns. Long live shellfish!

CANADIAN SERVICE AND WARRANTY PROVIDERS FOR NORDHAVEN AND SELENE

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NORTH AMERICAN P-51D MUSTANG On display at the Flying Heritage Collection Museum.

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Flying Heritage Collection By Doug Wilson

If you have ever seen a World War II movie with airplanes, the names Messerschmitt, Zero, Hellcat, and Spitfire may be familiar. At Paine Field in Everett, Washington, you can actually see World War II warbirds from the United States, Great Britain, Germany, Japan and Russia on display. More amazing yet, most of the 18 in the collection are in flying condition. The Flying Heritage Collection, privately owned by Microsoft co-founder Paul Allen, is open for public viewing. It is operated by the non-profit Friends of Flying Heritage. These planes have all been re-fitted to original condition. The oldest is the

1918 Curtiss JN-4 “Jenny,” which is currently in storage. The largest plane, a United States North American B-25J Mitchell bomber, took 12 years to rebuild to flying status. The B-25 is best known for Jimmy Doolittle’s bombing raid on Japan, launched from an aircraft carrier. The Russian Polikarpov U-2/Po-2 biplane is one of the smallest and basic aircraft in the collection. Its wartime history is a very interesting story. All woman regiments flew against the Germans. Many of the pilots were in their teens. The Germans called the group the “Night Witches” because of their tactics of night bombing raids.

The Flying Heritage Collection facility is located at the southeast corner of Paine Field in Everett, Washington. Set in an 51,000 square foot hangar, FHC is a private collection of great rarity, rather than a formal museum. The aircraft are displayed alongside engaging, comprehensive exhibits.

GRUMMAN F6F HELLCAT After WWII, this aircraft was converted to an unmanned drone for anti-aircraft target practice, but was instead used for training. It is currently being restored to its wartime configuration.

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Technologically, the Hurricane is an “in-betweener”: one of the first fighters to feature the modern, lowwing, monoplane configuration, but still incorporating many construction techniques and design features of biplane fighers from the ‘20s and early ‘30s.

HAWKER HURRICANE MK.XIIA Because of its simplicity and adaptability, the Hurricane would serve in every major theater of air warfare in World War II.

NORTH AMERICAN P-51D MUSTANG This P-51 is a combat veteran that was delivered to the United States Army Air Force on January 26, 1944.

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The P-51 Mustang is arguably the fighter that won the air war in Europe, providing long-range escort that enabled American heavy bombers to carry the air war into the heart of Germany.


Republic P-470 Thunderbolt

Flying their biplanes to a target with their two-bomb load, cutting the engine to silence their approach, they dropped their bombs and restarted their engines. They made as many as eight bombing runs a night. This plane was originally designed as a crop duster. The rest of the collection represents warplanes built from 1935 through 1945. The Japanese Mitsubishi A6M322 Reisen (Zero) is probably the bestknown name among enemy fighter planes from the Pacific Theater. It was primarily an aircraft-carrier-based plane, particularly early in the war that started December 7, 1941, with the surprise attack on Pearl Harbor. The collection’s plane was recovered from Indonesia. Lesser known is the Nakajima Ki-43 Hayabusa (Oscar), the fighter plane of

the Japanese Army. The British Spitfire is famed for its part in the Battle of Britain, the only all- air battle of the war in Europe. The U.S. Navy Grumman F6F Hellcat was used heavily in the Pacific Theater against the Japanese. The Luftwaffe’s Messerschmitt was the terror of the skies in the European Theater. It would drop down on flights of Allied bombers, creating many casualties and lost aircraft. In visiting this collection, it is extremely important to watch the short videos on display. (This is where you will learn about the Russian Night Witches.) These videos give considerable insight to the enormity of the conflict. Among the rarest aircraft on display is a Messerschmitt 163 B Komet, one of only a dozen remaining in existence The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine

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MITSUBISHI A6M3-22 REISEN (ZERO) The Japanese Zero fighter was much faster and more maneuverable than most Allied fighters at the beginning of WWII.

ILYUSHIN IL-2M3 SHTURMOVIK The IL-2 operated close to the ground, attacking enemy tanks, trucks, and troops near the front line.

worldwide. Representing a last-ditch effort by the Germans to stop the Allied bombing campaign, the Komet was designed to soar above the attacking bombers on the power of its rocket engine and then attack while gliding back for landing. Somewhat incongruous among the historic warplanes but still quite interesting to see is a full-sized replica of SpaceShipOne, the first privately designed and built craft to put a human being in space. SpaceShipOne was financed by Flying Heritage Collection patron Paul Allen and designed by famed aerospace engineer Burt Rutan to compete for the $10 million X-Prize offered for the first civilian space flight. The unorthodox ship won the prize in October 2004. The original SpaceShipOne is displayed at the Smithsonian National Air & Space Museum in Washington, D.C., a testament to the significance of its achievement. The Flying Heritage Collection is located at 3407 109th Street at Paine Field in Everett. The Collection is open seven days a week Memorial Day to Labor Day and six days a week the rest of the year. Hours are 10:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m.. Entrance cost is $8 for kids ages 6-15, $10 seniors and military personnel and $12 for the general public. Free fly-in displays are open to the public at noon on certain Saturdays. Check the museum website, www.flyingheritage. com, for schedules. The website contains directions to the Flying Heritage Collection. Free parking is next to the entry. A new wing to enlarge the collection display area is under construction and will be open by May 2013, according to Flying Heritage Collection Director Adrian Hunt. You can read additional detailed information about each of these aircraft at www.flyingheritage.com.

CURTISS P-40C TOMAHAWK The P-40 Tomahawk debuted at the start and was a modification of the older P-36 Hawk. 28 of| WWII HARBORS www.harborsmagazine.com


SUPERMARINE SPITFIRE MK.VC The Supermarine Spitfire was Britain’s answer to the Messerschmitt 109, and in many ways, it was as nimble and deadly as its German counterpart.art.

REPUBLIC P-47D THUNDERBOLT The Thunderbolt featured the most powerful Pratt & Whitney engine ever developed at the time, along with eight .50-caliber machine guns and heavy armor.

FOCKE-WULF Fw 190 A-5 The Focke-Wulf 190 was the most | 29 The Kenmore Air Destination advanced radial-engine fighter inMagazine the world whenHARBORS it entered combat.


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New Spirits of Victoria By Alwynn Gwilt

In the corner of a wee warehouse in a former farmhouse in Saanich, on Vancouver Island, master distiller Peter Hunt slowly extracts a few drops of golden-color spirit from a first-run bourbon cask. With scientific exactitude, he lets it fall neatly into a whisky glass. The whole scene makes my mouth water and I grab the glass with excitement when he hands it over. Peter crawls out from between the cask and various other odd looking instruments before leading me back to the main part of the concrete floored, 35- foot by 40-foot room that makes

up the micro-distillery Victoria Spirits. The company, which is situated up a country road on the outskirts of Victoria, is only four years old, but is making its mark on the Canadian spirits scene with its high-quality products. The main seller – Victoria Gin – can be found on liquor store shelves in every province bar from Saskatchewan to the Maritimes. Other products include an increasingly popular Oaken Gin, which is aged in oak casks, a nutty, oily Left Coast Hemp Vodka, and various bitters. As he tells me about their journey

thus far, I gently nose and then sip the new-make spirit. The liquid will eventually go on to be called whisky but, being just over a year old, cannot yet be deemed as such since whisky must be aged for at least three years to gain that title. While it’s young and has more aging to do, it’s easy to see this spirit – with its flavors of butterscotch,

Micro-distillery making its mark on the Canadian Spirits scene.

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vanilla, apples, and pink peppercorns – will turn out to be highly drinkable, much like the other things I’ve tried previously from the company. A Family Affair Peter is one member of the small team, which is truly a family affair. Brother-in-law Phil Lecours is the distiller, while Peter’s sister, Anna (Phil’s wife), helped create the bitters in her kitchen at the popular Estevan bistro, Paprika. His other sister, Mia, designs all the bottle labels. The whole outfit is located on Peter’s mother Valerie and step-father Bryan’s land, which used to be home to a vineyard. In addition, they also live together. “Sharing a house was the only way we were going to get into the Victoria housing market, but it has been great, particularly with the babies,” says the 34-year old, referring to the fact he and wife Natalie, and Anna and Phil have just had baby girls. Working together helped get the micro-distillery off the ground – without staff overheads the brand has grown organically without over-extending itself. Today, 1,200 bottles are pumped out each month, made through the laborious use of a 217-liter handmade, wood-fired copper still imported from master-stillmakers Muller-Brennereianlagen in Germany. Each batch takes around six hours to make, but has to be tended carefully with wood added every five to 10 minutes to keep the temperatures perfectly balanced. The first-run (or “heads”) are filtered out and sold to a local biofuels coop, while the “hearts” (or, flavorful, drinkable part of the alcohol) come off the still at around 80% ABV (alcohol by volume) and are brought down in strength with water from the farm, before being stored in steel vats to let the flavors marry and settle. It’s intricate work and it’s perhaps helpful that Peter is a trained molecular biologist. Minute monitoring runs through his veins, although distilling was not what the former B.C. Cancer 32

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The Victoria Gin-making process is centered around this German copper pot wood-fired still.

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Agency scientist ever envisioned doing. “Making spirits was not a field recommended by the high school counsellor,” he tells me. Success and Expansion The success has given the company a solid foothold in the market, which is only just beginning to find popularity on B.C.’s coast. Much like the micro-brewing trend of the late ‘80s and early ‘90s, micro-distilling first took off in the United States, in states like Oregon, Washington and California before heading north. More frequently, Peter is getting calls from other hopeful start-ups in the local area. While this will mean more competition, it’s something he welcomes. “In Victoria, you’ve got the local beer section in the B.C. liquor store and that’s where I go.” he says. “It’s much better, it’s fresher, and you get more interesting products. One day I want to

go there and find a local spirits section.” And as most companies will be getting off the ground, Victoria Spirits will be looking to expand southwards. “We want to conquer Canada first,” he explains. “When the time is right, we will look to distribute into Oregon and Washington. People appreciate handmade spirits there.” First, however, the company will have to increase its production abilities. There are plans afoot to look at purchasing a second, 500-litre still, but the company will need a larger cash injection before that’s possible. The team is also increasing product offerings. The whisky will be released in 2014, if it is deemed worthy, while a new set of bitters (a black pepper, and a grapefruit and rosemary) will be released this year. The latter addition will inevitably enamor the company further with bartenders absorbed in the growing cocktail culture, since

they love experimenting with bitters in their concoctions. It is a market the company cannot ignore since the word of mouth influence of the bartending scene is paramount. “Bartenders are often your ambassadors so I think that’s why the gins have taken off and then the bitters add a twist,” says Peter. “Much like chicken, if you use different spices you’ll change the dish; bitters are the flavor accent of a cocktail.” In the end, a main spirit of the business seems to stem from the success of creating something with family. While the two new additions are a bit young yet to work in the still room, Peter says their presence there is inevitable. “It is still a fairly new business and we have a lot of growing to do. But we could use a few more hands on the bottling line,” he says, laughing. www.victoriaspirits.com

Juniper berries: the characteristic evergreen flavor of all gins. “Gin” comes from the Dutch word for juniper, “geneva.” But juniper is only one of many flavors used in the gin-making process at Victoria Gin.

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October 4, 2012 to January 27, 2013 Get your tickets now. Discover the fascinating world of maps, exploring the major trends in intellectual history through the language of cartography and how over 300 years of exploration challenged the longestablished visions of the world. This exhibition was organized in close collaboration between Henry Wendt, the Sonoma County Museum, Gordon Chun, and Frances Bowles. Map: Nicolaas J. Visscher, Dutch, 1618–1679, Nicolaes Berchem, Dutch, c. 1620–1683 | Orbis terrarum nova et accuratissima tabula. Auctore Nicolao Visscher | Amsterdam, 1658

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Topographical data by True North GIS. Map Š2009 Kenmore Air Harbor, Inc. All rights reserved.

Olympia to Nanaimo

South Zone Kenmore Air Destination Map

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For Reservations Call (866) 435-9524 • www.KenmoreAir.com


Topographical data by True North GIS. Map Š2009 Kenmore Air Harbor, Inc. All rights reserved.

Nanaimo to Port Hardy

North Zone

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For Reservations Call (866) 435-9524 • www.KenmoreAir.com


SLU:

Neighborhood Happenings

Seattle’s South Lake Union Neighborhood, home of Kenmore Air’s Seaplane Terminal.

Tom Douglas’ Culinary Summer Camp By Bobbie Hasselbring “Yay! It’s time for camp! Wahoo!” – Colored chalk message on the sidewalk in front of the Palace Ballroom I smell it before I see it. The delectable aroma of seven-bone steaks grilling over a wood fire wafts down Seattle’s 5th Avenue. People, with name tags like Smokin’ Lou and Bouillabaisse Bob, line up to pile their blue tin plates with scrambled eggs, red potatoes sliced thin with peppers and onions, meat and vegetarian chili, thick cowboy toast with fresh fig jam, and, of course, slabs of those succulent, smoky steaks. Welcome to Tom Douglas’ Culinary Summer Camp, a five-day playground where foodies mingle and learn from 40

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top chefs and eat and drink with abandon. Today’s breakfast, cooked outside his Palace Ballroom, is Douglas’ idea of a Cowboy Cookout. For six consecutive summers, the Seattle celebrity chef and winner of the 2012 James Beard Best Restaurateur Award has brought top chefs and authors to lead cooking demonstrations and hands-on classes for culinary “campers.” For 40 campers (22 returnees), it’s all about fun. Seattleite Sherri Berry, a first-time camper and environmental engineer, says, “This is so much fun; I don’t know how I’m going to go back to real life. I’m coming back next year.” That sentiment is common – both

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campers and presenters want to return, despite the $3,000 tuition. They love it so much that campers stage a reunion every fall. Inside the Ballroom, western music blares and campers enjoy mimosas, shots of Maker’s Mark, and “The Cowboy Flip,” a concoction of coffee, egg, and bourbon. There’s a full bar for campers with free drinks and cheeses, veggies, fruits, and dips, and cookies and breads made at Tom’s Dahlia Bakery. Not that anyone is going hungry or thirsty. Every dish demonstrated by the five or six food experts each day is accompanied by tastes paired with wine or cocktails. “Who’s ever had duck basted white


fish at 9 a.m.?” quips Douglas as servers bring out perfect bites of succulent black cod over house-pickled sauerkraut from Chicago chef Paul Virant’s new cookbook, The Preservation Kitchen. It’s paired with glasses of Riesling. Virant, chef/owner of the Windy City’s acclaimed Vie restaurant, demonstrates how to baste the fish. A closeup of his technique is live-cast on two big screens behind him. Another projects live tweets from staffers and campers. During each class, Douglas prowls the venue, his wireless microphone ever present. He’s the ringmaster of this culinary circus, keeping the chef-performers on time, asking questions, making jokes, ensuring everyone is having a good time. When a camper volunteers to chop veggies, he rewards her with a spin on a carnival wheel with prizes like hotel stays and restaurant certificates. Good natured competition plays an important role in Culinary Camp. Each day, campers compete for points and prizes. The camper with the most points at week’s end wins a culinary adventure for six in Seattle, complete with hotel and restaurant meals. For today’s challenge, they’re creating a feast using ingredients pictured in old food magazines. Between demos, campers browse and clip photos.

They also line up for signed cookbooks. Each camper goes home with autographed books from the chefpresenters. In addition, they receive goodies like camp T-shirts and aprons, gift cards for Starbucks, discount cards to Douglas’ 12 restaurants, wine from sponsors, and culinary tools like knives.

Sassafras Sara, a third-year camper from Juneau, Alaska, thumbs through an old “Gourmet” hoping for the perfect image for a winning culinary feast. “Tom’s Camp is like fantasy baseball for sports fans. Some people like cruises. For me, this is the ultimate vacation.” www.tomdouglas.com

Duck basted black cod over house-pickled sauerkraut.

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A Day with Jay Leno: Motorcycle Enthusiast By Mark Gardiner

Jay Leno has been a lifelong motorcycle enthusiast. His garage—actually a 17,000 square-foot restoration shop with five full-time employees and four nearby storage buildings totaling nearly 100,000 square feet—is home to about 100 motorcycles, as well as his better-known collection of automobiles. Almost all of them are licensed and insured and at least occasionally taken out on the roads. When he was a kid growing up in Andover, Massachusetts, most of the high-performance bikes he saw were in magazines. After fantasizing about it for years, his first riding experience was hardly the stuff dreams were made of. “I was about 18, and I bought a used Honda 350,” he remembered. 42

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“I’d never ridden a motorcycle, and the salesman handed me the keys. I was wearing prescription glasses, I had no helmet, and it started to rain as I rode home. A big truck passed me, and in the wind blast, my glasses flew off.” Seeing the humor in his own misadventures always came naturally to him. Even before he was out of college, he got gigs as a stand-up comedian in Playboy clubs. “After I graduated, I worked in car dealerships by day and did comedy at night,” he told me. “I kept the day job money in one pocket, and the comedy money in the other one. When there got to be a lot more money in that pocket, I realized I could make a good living in show business.” To this day, he’s got the two pockets

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Jay Leno is not only a motorcycle enthusiast, but a collector of vintage and contemporary motorcycles and automobiles. of money; they’re just really, really big pockets. “I live off the money I make doing comedy, and bank all the television money,” he told me. Although he jokes about the amount of money he spends on this hobby, the truth is, in recent years, his vintage motorcycles have probably been as good an investment as the stock market.


He’s still that grinning, all-consumed fanatic.

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Known for his love of motors, Leno also takes personal care to maintain and perfect his machines, keeping them clean and authentic, with the help of his mechanics.

“I don’t think of myself as a collector,” he said, “because I ride all of my bikes.” And he doesn’t baby them, either; I was aghast when he told me he’d been clocked at over 100 mph on his 1924 Brough Superior. During his show’s season, Leno checks in with his mechanics by phone several times a day from his office on the NBC lot. After taping his show in the afternoon, he comes to the garage for an hour or two to recharge his own batteries. He drops one vehicle off and picks another up to use the next day. Although he appreciates the amazing performance capabilities of modern sport bikes, he bemoans the way they’re filled with incomprehensible digital gadgets, with motors sealed behind bodywork making them almost impossible for owners to service. “I have this book that was published in the ‘20s called Projects for Boys,” Jay said, “It’s full of projects like building your own steam engines and making your own crystal radios. Those were thought of as projects for boys. Nowadays, even grown men can’t do that stuff.” Towards the end of the day, Jay wheeled out a 1918 Pope. “Riding this thing,” he said as he pulled on a helmet, “60 miles an hour feels like 200.” I stood there with his mechanics and watched as he kicked the Pope to life and rode out the gate and around the corner. Just as we turned back into the garage, there was a loud metallic crash, and they all froze in place, eyes wide. After a moment, one of Jay’s guys jogged out for a better look. “It was a garbage truck,” he said with relief, adding, “I hate that sound.”

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Beavers

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Little Planes That Just Won’t Quit The original Beaver lives. But only because of Kenmore Air. Okay, that takes some explanation. The Beaver is an airplane. Kenmore Air doesn’t build them, but refurbishes and repairs them. It’s an airplane that hasn’t been made since 1967. What is this love affair with an airplane that hasn’t been built for nearly half a century? Well, they just don’t make ‘em like this anymore. Pilots love them. And rebuilding them, along with the Otters, accounts for a quarter of the Kenmore Air service department business these days. The Beaver was one of a series of airplanes made by the de Havilland Canada Company. All of de Havilland’s early airplanes were named after animals— chipmunk, caribou, buffalo, otter and, of course, beaver. The beaver name was chosen not so much because the model has a floatplane ver-

By Yvette Cardozo

sion and is connected to water, but because it, like the little animal, was considered hard working and industrious. De Havilland built them for 20 years, starting in 1947, and they wound up in use during the Korean and Vietnam wars as utility craft. And then, they weren’t needed. The U.S. government unloaded hundreds of them, sometimes for as little as $10,000 apiece. Enter Kenmore Air, which started buying them a few at a time. With no new airplanes in production, Kenmore started rebuilding them, first for its own use, then eventually for resale. “We don’t manufacture aircraft,” said Rob Richey, Kenmore’s director of maintenance. “We rebuild them. We have to have an airframe to start with.” Meaning they take a skeleton of an airplane, rebuild the engine and the rest of it, and wind up with something

that might as well have been built from scratch. And the rebuilt Beavers are so popular with the aviation industry that Beavers sold by Kenmore Air are often referred to not as “de Havilland Beavers” but “Kenmore Beavers.” Rugged Simplicity But why hold onto a design that dates back to the first half of the 20th Century? They are among the most economical airplanes to fly, they are rugged, and they are simple. Pilots absolutely love them because they are so easy to fly. “It’s the balance of controls, the amount of power, and the short takeoff and landing capability,” Richey explained. Kind of like driving and working on one of those old sedans from the 1950s where you could go anywhere and practically repair it with chewing gum and rubber bands.

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Designed from the outset with the rigors of the Canadian bush in mind, the Beaver is in its element far from civilization where the fish are biting and the cell phones aren’t ringing.

Kenmore Air also rebuilds Otters, the Beaver’s larger sibling, most of which have been converted to turboprop engines. But, as Richey explained, you can rebuild a Beaver engine for $40,000. The Otter engine runs more like $200,000. The Otter can carry more and is faster, but uses a lot of jet fuel and is simply more expensive to run. Today, Kenmore owns some two dozen Beavers (including the very last piston-engine Beaver made by de Havilland in 1967 and the last-ever Beaver —a turbine­—made in 1969). They also have Otters and assorted wheeled airplanes. Kenmore, the undisputed King of the Beavers, has two floatplane bases in the Seattle area, 52 pilots on staff, and flies to 45 destinations in Washington and up and down the British Columbia coast. The company website looks like any airline link and even (for the past two years) has offered frequent flier miles from Alaska Airlines. But that’s not to say that flying with Kenmore Air looks or feels like the TSA trudge and two-hour check-in you endure at major airports with the big-guy airlines. Kenmore’s “waiting room” is a waterfront picnic bench. Or you can peek into the open hangar next door to watch Beavers being worked on. The parking lot is literally yards from the check-in counter. And down near the docks, with a backdrop of local apartment houses and homes, is where the airline parks its planes, including those Beavers. As for the future, Kenmore Air plans to rebuild many more Beavers, the little airplanes that just won’t quit. The late Bob Munro, Kenmore Air founder, pioneered the use of float-equipped Beavers for glacier landings to supply scientific and mining expeditions high in the mountains of Washington and British Columbia.

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Actor Harrison Ford is among the many private owners for whom Kenmore Air has rebuilt Beavers over the years.

Well into its second half-century of service, the Beaver remains unequaled as an all-around floatplane performer: not fast, but strong, safe and reliable!

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Vancouver’s Chocolate Scene

Sweet Delights By Doreen Pendgracs

Vancouver is one sweet city. Gorgeous views and vistas at every turn. But how does it measure up on the chocolate scale? As someone who’s been scouring the world for the past three years in search of the best chocolate for my upcoming book, Chocolatour: Your Passport to Passion, I felt compelled to find out. I am pleased to report that Vancouver measures quite well on the chocolate meter. Vancouver is home to world-class chocolatier, Thomas Haas, rated by some as Canada’s best. I would definitely put this amazing chocolatier in the top two in Canada, the other being SOMA Chocolatemaker of Toronto. Originally hailing from Germany, Thomas Haas has European training and experience. He combines youth and creativity with traditional oldworld flair to create excellent European-style pastries as well as a scrumptious chocolate bars, treats, and truffles. The bars have extremely creative packaging, taste fantastic, and make an excellent gift, grouped in six-packs for $33. That’s $5.50 a bar for quality that you’d pay $10 for at many of the finer chocolate houses around the world. Now with two locations (the original at 128-998 Harbourside Drive in North Vancouver and a new location at 2539 West Broadway in Kitsilano), Haas has a devout following that snaps 50

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Where does chocolate come from? Chocolate is made from fermented, dried, and roasted cocoa beans. Roasted cocoa beans are similar in size to roasted almonds, but are dark brown in color. The roasted beans are shelled and then crushed into cocoa nibs or processed and made into cocoa mass (solids), cocoa liquor (the non-alcoholic liquid that is used to make chocolate), and cocoa butter (which is used to make chocolate, other foods, and cosmetics and luxurious skin creams.) Creamier types of chocolate such as milk chocolate and white chocolate contain higher amounts of cocoa butter.

up his delicious double-baked chocolate croissants. I was stunned at the line-ups on a Saturday in May when I visited the North Vancouver location – particularly as it’s in an industrial area where the rest of the surrounding buildings are not open on weekends. Call ahead or check the website when you’re visiting to be sure you’re not disappointed. Haas respects “family hours” and is not open evenings, Sundays, or Mondays in order to give his hardworking staff well-deserved time off with their families. Even More Delights While you’re on the North Shore, take time to drop into two other noteworthy chocolate shops. You’ll find Cinnamon’s Chocolates at 119 East 2nd Street and Olde World Confections in the waterfront Lonsdale Quay Market (convenient if you’re taking the Sea Bus over to the North Shore). Cinnamon’s has a wide array of truffles and is best known for its Martini Collection, decadent truffles spiked with flavored liquors. Olde World Confections uses Belgian chocolate to make a variety of chocolate goodies, including dark chocolate caramel pecan turtles and a lovely ginger dark chocolate bark. You’ll find a couple noteworthy chocolate diversions in downtown

Dark chocolate contains a higher percentage of cocoa mass than milk chocolate. White chocolate contains no cocoa mass – only cocoa butter and sugar.

Cocoa beans come from pods grown on the cacao tree. Each pod will contain up to 50 cocoa beans, housed in a white placenta (white goop) that is removed from the beans prior to fermentation. Cacao is grown in a belt 20 degrees north and south of the Equator, with the bulk of it grown in West Africa (Ivory Coast and Ghana). The most highly coveted, aromatic beans are grown in South America (Peru, Ecuador and Venezuela). Chocolate makers are those who work directly with roasted cocoa beans to create their own unique chocolates. Chocolatiers are those who work with commercial chocolate (called couverture, which is chocolate liquor or cocoa mass) to make finished chocolate products with their own signature flavorings and designs. For more information on where to find the best chocolate on the planet, follow the author’s chocolate travel blog at www.diversionswithdoreen.com.

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Vancouver, too. The Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory at 1017 Robson Street will sell you chocolate golf balls and a huge selection of chocolate-covered apples. The Sutton Place Hotel at 845 Burrard offers a Chocoholic Buffet in its restaurant every Thursday, Friday, and Saturday evening. Reservations are recommended and be sure to arrive hungry! Another cool way to discover great chocolate is to attend the various farmers’ markets held in and around Vancouver. Chocolatiers such as Levni Chocolate of Mount Pleasant can be found through October at various markets in the Lower Mainland. Find the schedule at www.levnichocolate.com. This is just a taste of what Vancouver has to offer in great chocolate, and if you’re in Vancouver from October 15 to November 10, be sure to take in some of the Festival of Chocolate events happening in and around the city. During the festival, The Chocolate and More trade show will bring you all things chocolate, including a tequila and chocolate pairing event. For more information, visit www.festivalofchocolate.ca or call 604-628-9547. They’re looking for volunteers and what could be better than volunteering in the world of chocolate? 52

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Get Your Chocolate Fix at these Vancouver Chocolate Stand-Outs Chocoholic Buffet: www.vancouver.suttonplace.com Chocolate Arts: www.chocolatearts.com ChocolaTas: www.chocolatas.com Cinnamon’s Chocolates: www.cinnamons.ca CocoaNymph Chocolates and Confections: www.cocoanymph.com Cocolico: www.cocolico.ca Levni Chocolate: www.levnichocolate.com Mink Chocolates: www.minkchocolates.com Olde World Confections: www.lonsdalequay.com Purdy’s Chocolates: www.purdys.com Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory: www.rockychoc.com Rogers’ Chocolates: www.rogerschocolates.com Thomas Haas Chocolates & Patisserie: www.thomashaas.com XOXOLAT Chocolate: www.xoxolat.com Zimt Artisan Chocolates: www.zimt.ca

www.harborsmagazine.com


Your Journey Begins

with King County International Airport

“13R” photo used by permission of Long Bach Nguyen

Proud Partner of Kenmore Air Express Since 2004 With flights to Port Angeles, Eastsound (Orcas Island), and Friday Harbor

Serving the Aviation Community Since 1928 206 -296 -7380 • www.kingcounty.gov/airport The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine

HARBORS |

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Northwest Author Spotlight: Karyn F. King

By Bobbie Hasselbring

A Photographer’s Eye, A Giver’s Soul

For Karyn F. King¸ a whole new way of seeing and appreciating the world began at age eight with a Kodak Brownie camera. Today, she’s sharing her vision with thousands of appreciative readers —and giving back­—with her beautiful new photo book, San Juan Islands…and Beyond: A Photographer’s Journey. Karyn’s transformation from curious child with a boxy amateur camera to professional photographer and author was anything but linear. As a young girl, she was fascinated with her little Brownie camera. By the time she was in her 20s, she’d discovered a second passion: the ocean. “I found I loved boating and sailing, and that’s when I became an ocean-related photographer,” she says. She began boating off the California coast and documenting her trips with a film camera. Her photography was good enough, even then, to earn exhibition spots. Her attraction to 54

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the ocean led her to the University of Southern California to earn a bachelor’s degree in psychology and a master’s degree in oceanography. Jets, Submarines, and Rocket Scientists Of course, a girl’s got to eat, so after college, Karyn snagged a job at Pasadena’s Jet Propulsion Laboratory where she became a communications administrator. “I had a technical degree,” she says, “so I worked in the flight projects office and in an undersea program that involved an undersea vehicle that explored the ocean topography. I was the liaison that helped translate engineerspeak for lay people like the managers at CalTech.” It was also where she met her husband, David, “a real rocket scientist.” When the couple decided to move from Los Angeles, David received several job offers, including one in the Seattle area. “When we were flying over

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Puget Sound, I turned to my husband and said, ‘This is where I belong.’” She and David left family and friends and wholeheartedly embraced their new Northwest home. “It was November of 1989 when we moved up here,” she recalls. “It didn’t stop raining until June, but it didn’t bother me at all. I found it calming, and I loved it and still do.” Five years ago illness in her family took much of her time. “It was difficult,” she says softly. “I needed some beauty in my life right then.” She turned to an old friend, her camera, albeit one a bit more sophisticated than her original Brownie, and headed to Seattle’s Japanese Garden. In the Garden’s gift shop, she asked if they had a calendar of the garden. They didn’t, but thought it was a great idea. So Karyn produced one and her career as a professional photographer and publisher of calendars and note cards took off.


An Eye for Giving Back Also about this time, Karyn met a publisher at a boat show He said her photographs were “spectacular” and encouraged her to think about producing a coffee-table photo book. By the time she was ready to work on the book, the publisher wasn’t able to help. Believing in the project, Karyn financed and produced it herself. The result is a stunning 112-page hardback that documents the San Juan Islands’ resident orca whales, brilliant sunsets, marinas and bays, aerial views, and iconic landmarks like Rosario Resort and Spa and Roche Harbor’s historic

chapel. A final chapter, “…and Beyond” offers images outside the islands, including aerial shots of Point Wilson Lighthouse near Port Townsend and an up-close-and-personal photo of Seattle’s Space Needle. San Juan Islands…and Beyond isn’t just a look at how a skilled photographer sees this special part of the world. It’s also a fundraiser for causes like Friday Harbor’s Whale Museum, the World Wildlife Foundation, the ASPCA, and other nonprofits. When asked about do-

nating the book’s proceeds, she shrugs and says matter-of-factly. “I’ve always worked really hard all my life, usually two jobs at a time, so I feel free to help others in need. I was raised in a giving family. We had a box in the dining room and, if you made money babysitting, you were expected to put money in the box for others. There’s so much need out there and giving back is just part of my soul.”

For more information: About Karyn F. King and San Juan Islands…and Beyond www.whalemuseumstore.org www.sanjuanislandsphotographer.com

The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine

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Travel Savvy

A Traveler’s Guide to Tipping

By Bobbie Hasselbring

Ah, tips, those little gratuities that cause us so much worry and confusion. Should you give 5, 10, 20 percent? Should you give a tip at all? And to whom should you express your financial gratitude? Tipping, the act of giving financial rewards for good service, is part of our culture and a large part of the service industry. Like it or not, some occupations like waiter and bellman, rely heavily on tips for their income. My own mom was a professional waitress, and it wasn’t the minimum hourly wage she made but the tips that paid our mortgage. In these economically challenging times, tipping can be even more important to those in service industries. In addition, tipping correctly can ensure great service and make traveling go more smoothly. If you’re a hotel concierge, for instance, and you have two clients who want hard-to-get dinner or theater reservations and one tips generously and the other doesn’t tip at all, who do you think is going to get the coveted reservation? 56

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Here are a few guidelines to help you navigate the murky world of tipping: When in doubt, tip. Don’t let being unsure cause you to “stiff” someone who deserves to be rewarded for their service. Budget for it. When you’re calculating trip expenses, calculate in 10-15% for tips for meals, transportation, and lodging services. That way, you won’t be caught short. Carry small bills. There’s nothing more awkward than having a bellman or other service person wait expectantly for a tip and having only $20s or $50s in your pocket. Once I gave a taxi driver $20 for a $7 cab ride, and he drove off without offering change. Reward special service. If someone gives you special treatment such as the concierge getting you last-minute tickets or the maid bringing extra pillows at midnight, reward them with a tip. Know what to give. Tipping standards vary in different parts of the world. In the U.S. and Canada, follow these guidelines: Doormen or bellmen who assist with luggage- $1-2 per bag. Room maids- $2-5 per day. Pool and beach attendants who find you a chair and location- $2-$5 will guarantee a great location every day. Hotel Valet- $1-2 for hailing a cab. Waiter/waitress- Standard is 15%. For outstanding service, consider 20%. Bartenders- Tipping $1-2 per drink will ensure great drinks and attentive service. Front Desk- Normally no tip. Concierge- $5 for standard services like directions or restaurant recommen- dations. For more complicated requests, $10-20 or more. Masseuse/masseur- Plan on 15-20% of the bill.

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Epicurean Escape Indulge in an authentic island dining experience. Let the feast begin with a gourmet artisan cheese and charcuterie plate and a bottle of wine in your room upon arrival. Then join us in The Bluff Restaurant for a five-course tasting menu expertly crafted by Chef Kyle Nicholson. Top it off with a relaxing evening in front of your fireplace and jetted tub for two. 130 West Street | Friday Harbor, WA 98250 360.378.8455 | 866.722.7356 | fridayharborhouse.com

Call 866.722.7356 and mention HARBORS for a special discount when you make your reservation.

The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine

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57


Fall Flyaways Woodmark Hotel, Yacht Club, Spa Kirkland, WA

My dog is mad at me. He found out I went to the dogfriendly Woodmark Hotel, Yacht Club, and Spa on the east shore of Lake Washington in Kirkland, Washington. Unlike most luxury hotels, the Woodmark welcomes canine friends and doesn’t even charge extra for them. There’s a lot more than dogiliciousness that makes the Woodmark a great choice. The hotel’s water location is stunning. You can’t get any closer to Lake Washington without getting wet. And, if you want to get on the lake, the hotel offers complimentary kayaks, rental paddle boards, or, with advance reservations, two-hour tours of Lake Washington and Lake Union 58

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on a 22-foot day-sailor or a 1950s Chris-Craft, complete with gleaming brass and mahogany decks. If you’re a landlubber, there are plenty of places to enjoy water views. The Beach Café, the hotel’s casual dining option, offers indoor seating with big waterside windows or outside tables protected by clear windscreens. For more upscale dining, try Bin on the Water upstairs. This location overlooking the water can’t be beat for both stunning sunsets and delectable food in a casually sophisticated setting. When I dined there, talented sous chef Rakesh Kondaiya impressed with his flair for both beautiful presentation and marrying savory and sweet. He specializes in cre-

www.harborsmagazine.com

By Bobbie Hasselbring

ating familiar “comfort” dishes using local ingredients with unusual twists. For instance, the rack of Anderson Ranch lamb, cooked to a perfect medium rare, was served with wild morel mushrooms, fingerling potatoes, and, for a bit of sweetness, Rainier cherries and aged balsamic. His riff on traditional strawberry shortcake included two flaky housemade shortcakes topped with sliced strawberries, and whipped cream laced with grilled lemon zest and shreds of fresh basil. For guests looking for comfort, the rooms offer plenty of upscale amenities, including über-comfortable king beds, luxurious sheets, upscale Molton & Brown toiletries, robes, coffee makers, 37” flat screen TVs, and creatively


Nine passenger wheeled Caravan

Ten passenger Turbo Otter seaplane

stocked mini-fridges (including all the fixings for martinis). There’s an upholstered chair and ottoman for curling up with a book. And, of course, there’s the view. Guests can choose from marina, lakeside, or creekside rooms. My room faced the lake and came with a small balcony with chairs and table, the perfect place to watch the action on the lake. For the ultimate in pampering, you can head to The Northwest Face Spa. It offers spa treatments from wraps to facials to massage. I indulged in an hour-long massage that ended with beautifully-dipped chocolate strawberries. Ahhhh… Now I just have to figure out what to say to my dog.

The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine

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Orcas Suites, Orcas Island, Washington

As one of 172 named islands that make up the archipelago called the San Juan Islands, Orcas is known as The Emerald Isle. Its 57 square miles are spread out in a horseshoe shape, topped off by Mt. Constitution—at 2,409 feet, the highest point in the San Juan Islands. Nestled on a hillside overlooking Cascade Bay at Rosario, are the Orcas Suites, located within walking distance of Rosario Resort & Spa. Four buildings make up Orcas Suites, a complex of privately-owned condominiums that feature a variety of accommodations. They include guest rooms, king studios, and oneor two-bedroom suites with fireplaces and kitchens. It’s ideal for families or groups, and all rooms and suites have a view. Other amenities include cable TV, coffeemakers with complimentary coffee and tea, hairdryers, and WiFi (although the latter is not all that reliable). Complimentary passes are available for the outdoor heated swimming pool at Rosario Resort, just down the hill from Orcas Suites, along with discounted day passes for The Spa at Rosario. There’s a 60

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By Sue Frause

two-night minimum, children 16 and under stay free, and no pets are allowed. One of the best features of the Orcas Suites is the close proximity to Rosario Resort & Spa. Spread out on 30 waterfront acres, the heart of the resort is the Moran Mansion, built between 1906 and 1909 by Seattle mayor and shipbuilder Robert Moran. There are two dining options at the resort: the Mansion Dining Room and Moran Lounge for casual food and cocktails and the seasonal Mansion Pool Bar & Grill and

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Cascade Bay Grill & Store. There are also numerous dining options in the nearby village of Eastsound, a colorful community of independently owned shops and galleries. Located on the second floor of the historic Moran Mansion is a museum that includes original furnishings, photographs, and nautical artifacts. The adjacent Music Room is home to an original 1913 Aeolian Pipe Organ and 1900 Steinway grand piano, which Rosario Resort general manager Christopher


This is an Island ...You Need a Boat

Hourly, Daily Rentals 360-378-6202 www.fridayharbormarine.com

After all that activity, you can relax and refresh—maybe even have a spa treatment—back at Orcas Suites.

Peacock plays at 4:00 p.m. on Saturdays in spring and fall and daily except Sundays during the summer. The hourlong program is complimentary and includes, along with his organ and piano music, interesting tidbits of history by Peacock. Outdoor activities abound, including three-hour kayak tours with Shearwater Adventures, located at the same dock as the Orcas Suites registration office. Just a few miles away is Moran State Park, which includes more than 30 miles of hiking trails and five freshwater lakes. The high point of the 5,252-acre park is Mt. Constitution, which can be reached on foot, or by bicycle or car. At the top is a stone observation tower (designed by noted Seattle architect Ellsworth Storey and built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in 1936) that offers sweeping views of the surrounding islands and Cascade Mountains. If you don’t have a Discover Pass (required for access to

Washington State Parks and recreation lands), stop by the park entrance and purchase a day pass for $10 or annual pass for $30. Continuing on through the park, you’ll reach the small hamlet of Olga, established in 1860 and home to Orcas Island Artworks and the adjoining Café Olga.

Kenmore Air has daily scheduled seaplane flights from its Lake Union Terminal in downtown Seattle to Rosario Resort. Please visit the website for details, or call toll free. www.kenmoreair.com (800) 543-9595

Orcas Suites

at ROSARIO

Enjoy a view of Cascade Bay from the balcony of your guestroom as you relax and soak in the easy pace of Orcas Island. Rosario’s seaplane dock and Marina are a short distance away. Ideal for family adventures or a romantic getaway.

360-376-6262 www.OrcasSuites.com

The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine

HARBORS |

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Abigail’s Hotel, Victoria, BC

Flying into Victoria’s Inner Harbour on a Kenmore Air seaplane is a thrilling entry to any destination. It takes no more than a glimpse to realize you are somewhere special. From the impressive European architectural rooftops to the boat-and-seaplane filled waterfront, British Columbia’s capital welcomes the most sophisticated of travelers. Visiting Victoria I felt like I was traveling through time to a special place, one with a flair that reminded me of places I’d visited in Europe. Walking through the streets and shops, I met friendly people willing to share and educate me on their local heritage. Victoria is full of places to stay, from high-rise flagship hotels and resorts to vintage hostels and B&Bs, but I was eager to check out a small hotel I had heard about called Abigail’s. From the 62

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By AJ Hunt

harbor I walked just a few blocks to a quiet cul-de-sac in the heart of the city, where I found my home for the next two days. It was conveniently located just three blocks from the Inner Harbour area and an easy walk to Victoria’s shopping district and many first-class restaurants and pubs. I couldn’t wait to get down to the nearby world-class Royal BC Museum, which I knew was featuring some spectacular exhibits including local artist Emily Carr, as well as artifacts and artistry of local native cultures. But first, I wanted to explore this gorgeous boutique hotel. Abigail’s boasts heritage Tudor architecture and inviting English gardens that evoke the old-world charm of downtown Victoria. Even the chilly winter weather could not diminish the charm and cozy comfort of this quaint oasis. I was told it was classi-

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fied somewhere between a luxury bed and breakfast and a first-rate boutique hotel, but I could tell it had a unique style and personality of its own. As I walked through the ivy-covered entry I was struck by the personal touches that created a comforting ambiance of being at home away from home. While my room was being readied, general manager Nick Saklas, son of owner Ellen Cmolik, graciously gave me a personalized tour of the property and introduced me to his welcoming staff, all beaming with pride and professionalism. We visited several guestrooms, all of which featured soothing soaker baths, state-of-the-art shower fixtures, deluxe spa bathrobes, luxurious down duvets, rich fabrics and linens, and wood-burning fireplaces. I was amazed at how many complimentary in-room amenities there were,


from wireless internet and flat screen TVs to DVD players and iPod docking stations. Each of the 23 guestrooms has its own distinct character, including Tiffany-style lamps and fresh-cut flowers in mosaic vases. Nick was very proud to announce that Abigail’s is a member of Select Registry and Unique Inns, and the staff continually strives to maintain the highest standards of quality and convenience to ensure each stay is superb. After just a brief tour of the hotel I felt a strong sense of history, romance and relaxation, and could hardly wait to get settled in my own room. That evening I started out with a visit to the library adjacent to the lobby. It was beautifully decorated with overstuffed plush fabric furnishings, the perfect setting to relax and read a favorite novel or sit with friends and visit over a glass of wine or cup of tea. At 5:00 p.m. daily the chef lays out a complimentary spread of gourmet hors d’oeuvres for guests to enjoy before venturing out for a night on the town. What a surprise it was to see what a feast the chef had prepared: Brie, fresh sliced fruits, stuffed mushrooms, and an array of homemade relishes and garnished vegetables. This was not your typical cheese-and-crackers snack. Soon thereafter, Nick appeared again to pour wine for guests, at a very reasonable $5 per glass, while sharing some history of the hotel structure and renovation of the library. I was particularly intrigued by the story of the freestanding bar cabinet in the library. You would never guess that it was purchased secondhand and became the catalyst for the design of the entire library interior, with its very own Victoria secret—a secret hinge on the cabinet. The reputed magical powers of which made for an amusing story. After a few hours walking around the downtown area and checking out the local night scene I returned to my room and enjoyed my very own bed-

side fire and a soothing hot whirlpool bath. I couldn’t help but think this was the most relaxed I had been for months. The next morning I started my day with a three-course gourmet breakfast courtesy of chef Matt McGinn, who is very involved with the sustainable culinary movement and uses only fresh, locally grown ingredients in all his meal preparations—a true recipe for success in creating the ultimate in gourmet cuisine. The smell of freshbaked bread filled the hallways as I made my way to the cozy breakfast room at the bottom of the main lobby staircase. Had I wanted a lazy morning in bed or a luxurious morning picnic in front of my private fireplace, I could have enjoyed a beautiful breakfast basket delivered to my room, but since I was traveling alone I decided to seek out the company of the other guests in the main breakfast room. The friendly staff attended to each guest offering an array of fresh baked muffins and juices, as they took individual breakfast orders from the personalized menus at each place setting. The open air kitchen allowed the breakfast chef to converse with guests which made for delightful morning conversation. For guests who want even more of a focus on mouthwatering gourmet food, Abigail’s offers special in-house events such as baking and gourmet cooking classes with the executive chef, and wine-tasting seminars by local Vancouver Island vineyards are scheduled during the year. As soon as I learned about this I immediately began thinking about which of my friends might want to join me on a future visit complete with a cooking and wine-pairing class. I wouldn’t be the first to return; in fact, many guests make regular annual visits to Abigail’s, and after my own Abigail’s experience I easily understood why. With Abigail’s blend of comfort, ambiance, and all those special touches, it’s really no secret. The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine

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Flying with Kenmore Air

Things you need to know... Baggage Allowances

At Kenmore Air we have big hearts but little airplanes! Our baggage limits and penalties for overweight bags are dictated solely by safety of flight concerns, which are more acute on our size aircraft than on the big jets. Seaplane passengers are permitted up to 24 pounds of baggage per person. All items are weighed and count toward the limit, including purses, laptops, backpacks, and so on. Additionally, no single baggage item can exceed 10 x 16 x 24 inches. On Kenmore Air Express wheeled-plane flights, passengers may check baggage totaling up to 50 pounds and may hand-carry one personal item (purse, backpack, etc.) of up to 20 pounds. The checked item may not exceed 62 linear inches, and the personal item may not exceed 36 linear inches. Overweight baggage will be carried on either service if capacity is available for $1 per pound, and oversized baggage will be accommodated, if possible, for a $10 per piece penalty. However, overweight/oversized baggage is always at risk of being bumped unless extra baggage space has been reserved and pre-paid in advance.

Sea-Tac Shuttles

Kenmore Air operates ground shuttles between SeattleTacoma International Airport and its three Seattlearea terminals. These shuttles are complimentary for connections to year-round routes and available at a nominal charge for connections to seasonal routes. Shuttles must be reserved in advance. When booking flights online, select “Seattle-Tacoma International” as your origin or destination, and our system will automatically book the correct combination of shuttle and flight for you. Shuttles pick up from Sea-Tac at Door 00 in the Scheduled Airporter waiting area at the far south end of Baggage Claim. Please be at Door 00 with your claimed baggage at least 10 minutes before the scheduled shuttle departure time. The shuttle driver will always make a departure announcement over the PA system, but passengers are ultimately responsible for getting on the shuttle by departure time. When connecting to another airline from Sea-Tac, be sure to schedule your Kenmore Air flight and shuttle to arrive at Sea-Tac with sufficient time (per your major airline’s recommendation) to check in, check baggage and clear security. A minimum of 90 minutes is generally recommended.

Customs & Immigration

Charter Service

Kenmore Air offers a lot of scheduled flights to a lot of places, but sometimes, you really need to travel on your schedule, not ours. Or perhaps you need to go somewhere we don’t fly everyday. That’s what charters are for. With our large and diverse fleet of seaplanes and wheeled-aircraft, we’re able to offer customized flying throughout the Pacific Northwest. For a quote, call 866.435.9524 and ask for a charter specialist or send an e-mail to charters@KenmoreAir.com.

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With a handful of extremely limited exceptions, everyone flying internationally — regardless of citizenship or age — is required to have a current, valid passport book. Passport cards, NEXUS cards and so-called “enhanced driver licenses” are not valid for travel aboard Kenmore Air. Travelers should also be aware that some criminal offenses that are misdemeanors in the United States are considered felonies in Canada and can result in denial of entry. Driving under the influence of alcohol is a common example. Every traveler is responsible for making sure that they meet the requirements of international travel. Kenmore Air will accept no liability for cost or inconvenience arising from denial of entry into either the United States or Canada.


Check-in Times

Kenmore Air passengers enjoy a generally more relaxed traveling experience than the typical airline affords. Nevertheless, we do require check-in for all domestic flights 30 minutes prior to scheduled departure. Due to certain requirements of U.S. Customs & Border Protection, check-in for international flights is required 45 minutes prior to departure. Flights close for boarding 15 minutes prior to scheduled departure, which means that seats for passengers who haven’t checked in at that time may be released to stand-by passengers. Also, the flight may depart anytime after closing, even if it’s prior to scheduled departure. We like arriving early! For flights departing from unstaffed locations, like seaplane docks in the San Juan Islands or British Columbia, passengers should be ready to go at least 15 minutes prior to scheduled departure time to accommodate unforeseeable variations in flight time.

Reservations & Customer Service Reservations can be made online 24 hours a day, seven days a week at KenmoreAir.com, or call us tollfree seven days a week from 7:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. Pacific Time at 866.435.9524. For customer-service inquiries of an urgent nature, call our reservations line at 866.435.9524. For less timesensitive concerns, kudos or complaints, please e-mail us at feedback@KenmoreAir.com.

Alaska Airlines Partnership

Since April 2010, Kenmore Air has been a proud partner in the award-winning Alaska Airlines Mileage Plan. Passengers who are participants in the Alaska plan earn 250 miles each way on qualifying Kenmore Air flights, and miles can also be redeemed for free flights on either airline. For details on the Alaska Airlines Mileage Plan, visit AlaskaAir.com/MileagePlan. In addition to the Mileage Plan partnership, Kenmore Air and Alaska Airlines have an interline ticketing agreement. This means that you can purchase singleticket itineraries between Kenmore Air destinations and more than 90 Alaska Airlines cities across North America, including Hawaii. Besides the simplicity and convenience of making a single phone call or online booking, such joint itineraries also offer much more coordinated and accommodating customer service in the event of weather delays, misrouted baggage or other issues.

Terminal Locations Seattle Boeing Field 7277 Perimeter Road Seattle, WA 98108 Seattle Lake Union 950 Westlake Avenue N. Seattle, WA 98109 Kenmore Lake Washington 6321 NE 175th Street Kenmore, WA 98028 Port Angeles/Fairchild Airport 1404 West Airport Road Port Angeles, WA 98363 Local tel.: 360.452.6371

Friday Harbor Airport 800 Franklin Drive Friday Harbor, WA 98250 Local tel.: 360.378.1067 Eastsound/Orcas Island Airport 847 Schoen Lane Eastsound, WA 98245 Local tel.: 360.376.1407 Victoria Inner Harbour 1000 Wharf Street Victoria, BC V8W 1T4

Interline bookings can be made only through Alaska Airlines. If your travel plans include an Alaska Airlines city, we strongly encourage you to book an interline ticket by visiting www.AlaskaAir.com or calling 800.ALASKAAIR.

The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine

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C O M M E R C I A L R E A L E S TAT E

Premier Office Space Convenient and Affordable Location

Excellent Freeway Access and Visibility Near Retail Centers, Corporate Headquarters and Medical Facilities 10,500 sq. ft. Build-to-Suit Office/Retail Building

Issaquah, WA

Kyle Development Company, Inc. 425-391-1170 www.kyledevelopment.com

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SEEN IN ALL

THE BEST PLACES

R-29 R-27

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he most appealing destinations often aren’t just around the corner. That’s why we’ve built Ranger Tugs® and Cutwater Boats® in the Pacific Northwest since 1958. Each model features standard bow

and stern thrusters for effortless handling, coupled with fuel-efficient diesel power to bring even remote anchorages within easy reach. A comfortable ride, generous interior and standard equipment make the trip worthwhile. Our boats are designed for easy trailering, to extend your horizons even further. No wonder Ranger Tugs and Cutwater have emerged as leading builders of family cruisers, and the favored choice of experienced owners across North America and worldwide.

RangerTugs.com | 253.839.5213 R-21EC • R-25SC • R-27 • R-29 • R-31

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HARBORS Fall 2012  

The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine

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