Page 1

000_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 12:27 Page 1

SEPTEMBER 2018

Professional SEPTEMBER 2018


PRO HAIR FULL PAGE NEW_Layout 1 01/08/2018 10:08 Page 1


DPS NEW_Layout 1 01/08/2018 10:11 Page 1


DPS NEW_Layout 1 01/08/2018 10:12 Page 2


PRO HAIR FULL PAGE NEW_Layout 1 02/08/2018 13:35 Page 1


005_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 12:30 Page 1

S E P T E MB ER 2 0 1 8

ISSUE 08

All UK hair salons should adopt a #ColourResponsible Policy SEPTEMBER 2018

Cover: Kevin Kahan for Schwarzkopf Professional

Editor Nicola Shannon nshannon@hamerville.co.uk Online/Editorial Assistant Megan Danskine mdanskine@hamerville.co.uk Designer

Big industry news story at the time of writing this covers the woman who is bringing a case against a salon, accusing them of causing her to have a stroke. She alleges the impact of the sink on her neck while having her hair washed caused her to collapse the following day and now she struggles to speak, read and write. Court papers for the case state salon staff never asked said client to attend for a ‘strand test’ before her appointment which would have prevented the need for her hair to be re-washed and re-coloured six times, with documents also accusing the salon of negligence by failing to offer her a front-facing sink or provide neck protection during the treatment she received. Her specialist beauty treatment lawyer, said: “A civil action against the salon is underway after our client’s life was undeniably altered following her appointment. Thousands of people will seek beauty treatments like this every year and she is incredibly brave in speaking out as a way of alerting others to the risks.” “Alerting others to the risks”… If this case sees the client being compensated a said £1million then the floodgates could open! We have covered this subject in depth earlier this year in the magazine and at Pro Hair Live 18 with Passion4hair’s Debbie Digby talking about the importance of skin testing and here it is at the forefront again. It so important that every salon puts the safety of clients first to eradicate the threat of an allergic reaction and in doing so also protecting the business and the staff. Continue this discussion on page 32 with a topical debate from Barrie Stephen of the Barrie Stephen Hair Group - #dontskiptheskintest.

Regulars

Colour

Products

6. NEWS 9. NEWS EXTRA Wella Business Network 11. NEWS EXTRA UK Colorzoom Final

26. COLOUR CLOSE UP KMS Style Colour 30. STEP BY STEP HOB Salons 32. COLOUR BUSINESS Barrie Stephen 33. #HAIR 36. Joico’s Year of Colour 40. COLOUR CLOSE UP Wella Professionals

68. What’s New 72. SPOTLIGHT TIGI

Harry Gwinnell Group Production Manager Carol Padgett Production Assistant Claire Swendell Printer Wyndeham Roche Ltd Publisher Bryan Shannon

FOLLOW ME: @ProHairMag_Nic on Twitter FOLLOW PRO HAIR MAG: @ProHairMag on Instagram and Twitter

People 15. ZOE IRWIN Trend talking 17. HOOKER & YOUNG In Conversation With… 22. LEADING LADIES With Beverly C MBE

Group Sales Manager

Fashion 44. On Trend Collections 65. Salon Interiors Special

Business 76. Doctor Barton investigates 78. REACH Education 83. Phil Smith 84. Julie Eldrett 86. Paul Ralph 88. Step by Step Curlformers 89. Training

Oliver Shannon oshannon@hamerville.co.uk

14,657

Professional Hairdresser, Hamerville Media Group Ltd, Regal House, Regal Way, Watford, Herts, WD24 4YF. Phone: 01923 237799 Fax: 01923 246901 Subscriptions to Professional Hairdresser are avaliable at the following rates: UK: 1 year - £30 post paid Europe and Overseas: 1 year - £50 post paid AIRMAIL: 1 year - £65 post paid. To be removed from this magazine’s circulation please call 01923 237799 or email circulation@hamerville.couk. ©2018 Professional Hairdresser accepts no responsibility for damage or loss, however caused, to any material submitted for publication. While every effort is made to ensure facts are correct at time of going to press, no responsibilty can be acceoted for incorrect product descriptions or facts. No part of this magazine may be reproduced, in any form, without prior written permission from the publishers.

WWW.PROFESSIONALHAIRDRESSER.CO.UK

VAB @ProHairMag


006_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 12:31 Page 1

NEWS

VAB@ProHairMag

WWW.PROFESSIONALHAIRDRESSER.CO.UK

THE LATEST FROM THE INDUSTRY

Richard Mannah is JOICO’s new International Guest Artistic Director!

OOH LA LA

Racoon International’s Cinta Miller heads to Paris to style couture shows.

Paris’s couture season saw Racoon International brand ambassador, Cinta Miller, invited to work her hair magic as hair team lead for French-based couture designer, Liu Chao. Celebrity stylist and extensionist extraordinaire Cinta chose to use Racoon’s Luxe Wefts to create eye-catching looks to complement the catwalk fashion. “I needed hair to look raw, a bit wild with loose edges and plenty of texture,” said seasoned backstage stalwart Cinta. “Using BaByliss ‘crumpets’ in the hair formed a great base shape and we added length and volume by attaching Racoon’s Luxe Wefts between sections of models’ own hair. “We texturised some pieces to individualise each look but with an over-arching vibe of rope braids and textured panels running throughout. They looked awesome!”

Robert Eaton is the new Wella Professionals UK and Ireland Technical Director!

6 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER

KISS THIS, CANCER ghd celebrated the launch of their limited edition Lulu Guinness #kissthiscancer range with a picture perfect pink party.

Over the last 14 years, ghd has raised £10 million for breast cancer charities through their limited edition pink ranges; and for 2018, the campaign has gone bigger and better than ever thanks to a collaboration with British designer, Lulu Guinness. The kiss covered styler was launched at a spectular summer party at One Belgravia which had been given a pink makeover for the occasion. The picture perfect, uber-Instagrammable venue boasted a ghd styling station, OPI nail bar, protest-themed photobooth and freshly made-before-your-eyes ice cream from Pan-n-Ice. On hand for mini blow-dries and styling at the ghd bar were Samuel Johnson, Tilly Penn from the House of Rush and Grant Williams from Headmasters Soho. Guests could pick from four ghd summer looks; all designed to beat the London heat. Guest of honour on the night was designer Lulu Guinness, who has created a lip print duo of stylers and hairdryer for the ghd x Lulu Guinness collaboration. £10 from the sale of each tool will go to Breast Cancer Now, who are funding essential research into fighting the battle against cancer.


006_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 12:31 Page 2

TAKING ACTION

Headmasters Hair salons take action and introduce Mental Health First Aiders to salons.

Mental Health in the UK is a huge issue, its estimated that 16 million people experience a mental health illness with one in four adults experiencing this each year and young people can be most at risk. So Headmasters have taken action and started a pioneering Mental Health First Aiders (MHFA) initiative with an aim to help stop the stigma that surrounds mental health and build a supportive culture for all Stylists in the Headmasters’ workplace. The MHFA training course taught in conjunction with MHFA England offers a safe place for Apprentices and staff to make disclosures to the qualified Headmasters MHFA team. This team have been trained to listen, reassure and respond, offering initial help and the tools to guide those suffering towards the support they need. Lauren Benjamin Head of Apprentice Education at Headmasters explains: “Working with over 200 Apprentice aged 16+ we focus heavily on making sure our apprentices feel safe and happy whilst working at Headmasters as well as at the Academy. We have always encouraged and promoted wellbeing conversations within the Academy environment and from that, we noticed that there has been an increase in the amount of apprentices that are facing difficulties or struggling with mental health issues. I wanted our Assessor team who teach our apprentices to be confident in approaching these conversations, be able to listen and offer the appropriate support or professional help if needed.”

Andrew Barton has launched his latest creative and education concept, Andrew Barton London Education - ABLE. It’s a unique, contemporary training scholarship which offers further education institutions a comprehensive training programme to their existing portfolio of hairdressing education.

Get cybercrime-savvy Don’t let cybercriminals target your salon, says Hilary Hall, Chief Executive of the NHF. A recent NHF survey found that over half of NHF Members surveyed (56%) had been targeted by cybercriminals. The vast majority of those had suffered financial loss and only 17% had their losses covered by their bank. “In addition,” says Hilary, “the National Cyber Security Centre has found that almost half (44%) of small and medium-sized businesses in the UK have been targeted by cyber-fraudsters, typically costing them many thousands of pounds.” Protect your business It’s vital to take cybercrime seriously – otherwise salons risk serious financial and reputational damage, says Hilary. “Salons hold information that is extremely valuable to cybercriminals, including banking and financial information, as well as staff and client data.” In addition, new data protection laws under GDPR impose strict rules about keeping data secure, explains Hilary. Find out more about GDPR: www.nhf.info/gdpready. Golden rules “You can take some simple but vital steps to deter cybercriminals,” says Hilary. “The National Cyber Security Centre recommends backing up your data on a regular basis, making sure your firewall is switched on and using anti-virus software. Always obey prompts to install anti-virus updates.” The importance of passwords All devices, including mobile ones, should be password, PIN, or fingerprint-protected, says Hilary. “Take care with mobile devices. You should be able to lock or track them if they are stolen. Don’t use old mobile devices that no longer get automatic updates, and always avoid Wi-Fi hotspots when working with personal data.” Fend off phishing Phishing attacks are fake emails that ask for banking details and include links to scam websites. “Always look out for signs of fake emails such as poor spelling, poorly reproduced logos and suspicious email addresses,” says Hilary. “Change passwords and do a virus check if you think a phishing attack has taken place.” Team effort “Make sure your staff are aware of the cybercrime threat and the procedures they need to follow,” says Hilary. “But don’t be too hard on them if they get caught out by a cyber scam as this may discourage staff from reporting security concerns to you.” The NHF offers a range of business support services for salons, from legal, employment and financial guidance to expert advice for managing people and boosting your business. www.nhf.info

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 7


PRO HAIR FULL PAGE NEW_Layout 1 01/08/2018 10:06 Page 1


009_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 12:33 Page 1

NEWS EXTRA

Live and Kicking!

The 21st anniversary of Wella’s Business Network Live took place in the West Midlands recently at the stunning Belfry hotel and resort.

Philip Collins

Wella Professionals held its two day event for more than 200 delegates, in a bid to build some serious business motivation and networking opportunities. TV celebrity hairdresser and presenter, Michael Douglas, hosted the two day conference, which saw salon owners, their teams and Wella personnel, including the newly appointed General Manager of Coty Professional Beauty, UK & Ireland, Stefan Laux, gather for the annual event which for many is the highlight of the calendar. Geoff Ramm

e into “Ask yourself if an A-lister cam the be the salon would your service still same? Honestly?”

Ben Fogle

“Being so close to death teaches you to live more in the now, to look up, and to smile,”

Richard Mullender

Farrah Storr

“When faced with a in challenge and being e; zon t’ for a ‘discom that is when the ” magic truly happens

“Everything starts with listening. All great communication ” comes from listening,

Levi Roots

Holly Tucker

“The moral is to be yourself. Just be you and never try and be something you are not.”

“As a business owner, you have the power to change people’s lives.”

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 9


PRO HAIR FULL PAGE NEW_Layout 1 06/08/2018 14:34 Page 1


011_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 12:34 Page 1

NEWS EXTRA

Zoom IN

Goldwell announces 2018 UK Color Zoom winners On a balmy Sunday night recently, the hotly anticipated annual Color Zoom UK Final took place at The Brewery in the City of London where the gold, silver and bronze winners across all three categories were announced to an audience of over 700 salon professionals from all over the UK. Guests enjoyed cocktails and networking at the KMS welcome party, before the spectacular show led by all of the Goldwell UK Guest Artists. All 15 finalists then took to the stage to showcase their Elemental models live to the audience. Guests then danced the night away at an exclusive after party, themed around this year’s Global Zoom destination – Toronto! This year’s ELEMENTAL theme fuses technology with creativity and resurrects the primal– like a new dawn. It is characterised by an interplay of rawness and refinement while solidity merges with translucency.

THE GOLD WINNERS OF THIS YEAR’S COLOR ZOOM CHALLENGE ARE… All UK gold award winners will go on an all-expenses paid trip with their model to the international live finale in Toronto at the end of September. Here they will compete against other national winners from around the world to become one of three global Color Zoom winners and take their place on the Color Zoom Creative Team. Good Luck!

NEW TALENT CATEGORY KASHA HAVIS BLU HAIR

CREATIVE CATEGORY LYDIA WOLFE TONY WOOD HAIRDRESSING

PARTNER CATEGORY STEPHANIE JONES TOXIC CHERRY

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 11


DPS NEW_Layout 1 10/04/2018 12:25 Page 1


DPS NEW_Layout 1 10/04/2018 12:25 Page 2


PRO HAIR FULL PAGE NEW_Layout 1 02/08/2018 12:31 Page 1


015_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 12:35 Page 1

HI, MY NAME IS...

Zöe Irwin

and I am a trend addict...

This month I have been working on colour projects . I’m blending colour influences with styling influences and so am seeking out further inspiration. So I thought I would take you through how I use my trend world to create ideas in my hair world. I’ve long been a fan of taking a current talking point like an exhibition or fashion idea and turning it into a beauty service for salons. Likewise in education, using a current influence from the fashion world means that younger hairstylists relate far better and have more enthusiasm towards the project . It also delights stylists to spot the trend all around them in culture and brings the idea far more to life increasing their knowledge about every detail around it. The added value to this is if you hashtag or mention the idea on instagram, you open up a whole new audience and chance of reposts with your idea. For ghd I mentor hairdressers from all over the country and set projects through a private facebook group. The last project for the year I set around the ‘trainer launch of the year’. The Nike Sean Wothorspoon 97/1 was designed by sneaker-head Nike fan for a huge Nike worldwide competition. Sean mixed his two favourite trainers the Airmax 1 and Airmax 97 with his passion for 80’s culture , the fabric he used was influenced from his love of vintage corduroy caps. Nike released the mood boards of inspiration and a film on the ideas behind the trainer in the lead up to the super-hyped release. People then queued through the night for this limited release which is now on ebay for £1,000 . By using this as a project it meant that the hairdressers would need to study everything behind the trainer design. Looking into 80s culture, playing with hair colours until they matched the exact tones of the trainers and then using styling techniques that worked with all these cultural references. So as an education project it was layered and crossed over styling and colour. The team also produced their own moodboards and ideas. I also worked on the same project as part of my Wella Master Colour programme exam, spending days mixing colours and dying hairpieces in the tones. I shot images and videos for my instagram stories with all the mixes of the colours and reference images. To work alongside the team also encourages the project. My images were reposted by Nike fans and the designer of the trainer also commented on my work gaining more views to my project. The results from the team were incredible and some are pictured here. More importantly they loved the project and it taught them to look all around them for ideas for hair projects. So with this in mind I have taken time this month to really capture and research the Picasso 1932 exhibition in the Tate Modern as its influence on future colour trends is huge and at the same time I have used the huge coverage of the Frida Kahlo exhibition to help my first beauty launch for the Taylor Taylor salon in Libertys… but more of that next time .

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 15


PRO HAIR FULL PAGE NEW_Layout 1 01/08/2018 10:07 Page 1


HOOKER AND YO U NG

017_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 12:36 Page 17

The words ‘Icon’ and ‘Legend’ often get used in our industry and rightly so when people have earned the right to achieve such status. However, if we are talking about ‘the greats’, the true icons of British Hairdressing then there truly are only a few fitting of the title ‘legend’. When Daniel Galvin OBE accepted our invitation to sit down with us and share his story we were beyond excited! After a quick show around his incredible flagship salon we chatted with man himself and talked through his phenomenal career. Michael: So where did it all start for you? Daniel: I suppose, officially I started in 1959 when I first became a junior, but I had actually worked in my Dad’s barber shop in Paddington since 1957. Every Saturday I would go in and sweep the floor and sort the towels to earn some pocket money, and I just loved the atmosphere and the interaction with the customers. Michael: So you were really born into hairdressing? Daniel: Absolutely. My grandfather was Polish and between 1890 and 1910 he was the top stylist and manager of the Truefitt & Hill salon, which at the time was the best salon in London, and he used to have to wear top hat and tails, as well as white gloves, every day when he was cutting hair. My grandfather died when my father was only one year old, but

hairdressing is obviously just in the blood in my family because he opened his own salon when he was 21, while my brother and sister are also in the industry as well. Gary: So how did you come about opening your first salon? Daniel: Well in 1959 I started working in a salon called Figaro near Gloucester Place in London – which was later to become the salon that my brother Joshua and I would take over in 1980. However, after my first two years there I felt that I wasn’t progressing quickly enough, so I thought a move to the suburbs would be beneficial and I made my way to Wembley. While I was there, the seniors in the salon would tell you what to mix to make the colours and I can still remember how I felt when I first discovered how to mix the colours to transform the hair, it was just so magical. I went on to become head junior and was doing colour all

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 17


017_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 12:36 Page 18

of the time and then my brother encouraged me to contact the top 10 salons in London, which I did. I heard back from two and went for an interview at Olofson Haute Coiffure in Knightsbridge on a Friday and started work there the following Tuesday. After about 14 months, I was approached by Leonard of Mayfair and Vidal Sassoon. As there was already a Director of Colour at Sassoon, I decided to join Leonard and it definitely turned out to be the right decision. At the time, Leonard was involved in working on a number of films – Murder on the Orient Express for example – and as there was nobody else in the salon who was specialising in colour, I would be the one to go and work with the actors and actresses, which was a fabulous experience and definitely reinforced that I made the right decision. Back then though, colour was definitely not as popular as it is today and only around 10% of the people coming into the salon would have a colour and that was mainly to cover the grey hairs and very few would have fashion colours. I then decided that I

18 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER

was going to have to do something about this, so I developed some crazy colours in 1967 which were really vibrant shades of pinks, blues and reds and they were used in a shoot for VOGUE magazine. I was never really intending people to wear the colours, I just wanted to shock people and show what was possible. In the 1980s I was headhunted by Japanese company Hoyu to launch a range of professional colour products and two years later and the Daniel Galvin Promaster range launched, and they say this has potentially inspired almost 63 million people in Japan to colour their hair! This is range is now in

eight other countries including Singapore and Malaysia. Gary: You must think when people moan about colour today that they didn’t have to do anything like you had to? Daniel: I remember often wanting to go lighter with the tint but I just couldn’t get the product from the manufacturers, so I had to mix my own using a variety of different ingredients and experiment. It was hard work, but at the same time it was also very rewarding. Gary: So, tell us about Twiggy, how did that come about?


017_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 12:37 Page 19

PEOPLE

Daniel: We used to have a predominantly older, wealthier clientele but over the last few years we have started to attract more younger customers. We now have some really fantastic colourists who are all capable of producing more fashion colours. Michael: That must make you feel like you’ve come full circle having developed the crazy colour all those years ago. So, what about the family business? Daniel: I was lucky in a way when Twiggy came into the salon in 1966. She had ginger hair past her shoulders and her manager, who used to be a hairdresser at Vidal Sassoon, wanted her to be a model, so we took her upstairs and Leonard cut her iconic crop haircut and I did the colour. I had just invented the brickwork technique and it took me eight hours to finish, but by the end of that year she had become the world’s first supermodel, and everyone was coming into the salon asking for a haircut and colour like hers. I hadn’t expected the huge impact it would have but I was soon being invited all over the world to do the natural movement highlights and my career then really took off. Gary: When did you open your first Daniel Galvin salon? Daniel: It was in 1977. I remember being terrified, as I had a long-term contract at

Leonard’s and I could have been set for life really, but I just remember thinking that it was the right thing to do. I found a building on George Street in London which was 1,700 sq ft and I started off with 11 staff. In 1986 I then moved just down the road to a larger building, as by that time we had 36 staff, before moving again in 2003 to our current premises where we now have 115 staff in this salon alone. Gary: You must be constantly recruiting.

Daniel: It’s so hard now, it’s a nightmare. The government just isn’t telling students that if they are artistic rather than academic that there are great apprenticeships available to them. Michael: It’s such a shame that we can’t showcase the industry and salons like yours to young school leavers and show them that there is so much they can get out of hairdressing. Gary: Do you still work in the salon? Daniel: I work in the salon on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. Most people my age have long retired, but I still absolutely love it. Gary: So what does a Daniel Galvin client look like today?

Daniel: All three of my children are very much involved in the hairdressing industry. Daniel has now got his own salon in Belgravia, while both James and Louise work across the Daniel Galvin salons. Michael: Did you always encourage them to come into the business? Daniel: I said the same to them as my father said to me, if you want pocket money then come in. Like me, James started sweeping the floors and Louise wanted to shampoo when she was 13. As with everyone I teach, I always say to them that they should count themselves lucky to be in the best industry in the world and I consider myself fortunate to have had such a wonderful career doing something that I continue to love. We feel so fortunate to have met some incredible people throughout our ‘In Conversation With’ series in Professional Hairdresser. Each has been amazing in their own way expressing honesty and a reality of who we really are as people. Meeting Daniel was a surreal experience for us, a definite highlight of this series. He is an incredible person who has shaped the world of hairdressing for generations to come. His stories are both fascinating and inspiring which just leaves you wanting to know more! A true gentleman who has remained gracious and humble and still has an incredible passion for the industry that he loves. We can’t thank Daniel enough for letting us into his world and sharing some of his amazing stories with us. A true Legend indeed.

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 19


DPS NEW_Layout 1 02/08/2018 13:56 Page 1


DPS NEW_Layout 1 02/08/2018 13:56 Page 2


022_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 12:38 Page 1

LEADing Ladies

Putting the ‘leading’ into ‘ladies’, she is a veritable powerhouse, influencer and legend of female hairdressing – meet Ms Beverly C MBE.

I started my career at the age of 17 training at Morris Masterclass in London. This is where my love of education and teaching began and within 18 months I became a teacher at the academy. At the age of 20 I joined the family business Cobella and opened the first salon in London’s Mayfair. From the very beginning, we were always involved in education, shows and seminars working alongside manufacturers in Japan and the USA. And so, the journey began. Within a few years the Battersea and London Marriot Hotel salons followed, and in 2000, after buying a freehold property, we launched the first UK Day Spa Cobella Salon Kensington. At this point I also began working on TV programs like This Morning, GMTV and others. It was a scary experience at first but I loved the excitement of live TV, plus it was a fantastic medium to promote the business and hairdressing as an amazing career. Being the first solo woman to win British Hairdresser of the Year in 2001 and again in 2002 was the pinnacle of my career and I hope it encouraged and made female hairdressers realise that us girls can do it! It proved to be one of the busiest times in my career as I also became President of the Fellowship for British Hairdressing for two years. Thank goodness I had a fantastic team on the Fellowship who were an immense support. Following my break up from my husband Anestis and my departure from the Cobella group, I then went on to work as a Consultant and Creative Director for Harrods Urban Retreat and then at Essensuals/TONI&GUY for two years, whilst continuing my role as a global ambassador for Wella. During this time I met a super talented hairdresser and an amazing person, Stephen Glendinning, and we have continued to work together ever since. With my new name Beverly C, I continued to travel extensively with my team and immerse myself in what I knew best. In 2008 I received the honour of an MBE from the Queen which was incredible and very humbling, and something I am so very proud of. It made me realise that all the hard work and dedication was totally worth it. In 2008 I also joined Goldwell as a brand ambassador. For the past 10 years I’ve been creatively involved in working closely with Goldwell in the UK and in the international arena. Twelve years ago, I also joined BaByliss PRO as one of their creative ambassadors and continue to collaborate on their imagery, professional education and the consumer product sector, working to develop new products. For the past 10 years I’ve regularly presented on QVC for BaByliss and I’m now one of the QVC top presenters for hair products.

22 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER


022_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 12:38 Page 2

PEOPLE

How did you get to where you are today and who/what helped you along the way? Wow what a question – an amalgamation of events – hard work, determination and so many people to thank. Success comes slowly and steady. Looking back my initial training was by an amazing man Franklin Massahood at Morris Masterclass School in London (he was like Gordon Ramsey without the swearing). The foundation this man gave me totally lead me on the right road for my career. Having a vision and goal of where you want to aim is key, so starting the Cobella family business over 35 years ago gave me a central grounding to work from. The heart of Cobella was always education, shows and being an integral part of British hairdressing. From the early days so many editors and manufacturers worldwide gave us the opportunities and platform to grow as a company. But it’s important to also say that success is also to do with the team around you, and they played an amazing role in my journey and have gone on to great success themselves. What role has luck played in your success? I am a strong believer that you make your own luck. ‘Luck’ (if you want to call it that) is being able to see an opportunity and see when there isn’t one. Of course, a little luck on timing can help. But I would like to say it’s important to positively embrace pitfalls, struggles and difficulties in your career and business – these are the things that mould your determination and help you to learn on the journey and the road ahead. What do you think is the most significant barrier to female leadership/success in the hair business? In 2018 I don’t believe there are any big gender issues that cause barriers in our industry which is great, but if you want success girls ‘stand up and be counted’. Create a strong brand, make a noise, and above all stay true to yourself. The one thing that can be a struggle is juggling between being at the top of

your game and having a family. The work/life balance is very important and can be done with amazing planning and some sacrifices. It is difficult, but I did it – one day at a time! I always found it hysterically funny when editors asked me about my hobbies and what I do in my spare time! I had neither! What have you learnt about leadership and mentoring others? Being a leader takes time and experience but above all you have to be a good listener and have a great understanding of people. Everyone is different and needs handling in different ways. But the one thing everyone responds to is a clear vision, a sense of belonging, opportunities to grow and a positive fun environment. Mentoring is slightly different. My motto now is: ‘Knowledge is a gift, a gift that should be shared’. I am passionate to continue to pass on my experience and knowledge to up and coming, and experienced hairdressers, something I love doing and that I am very passionate about. What will be the biggest challenge facing the generation of young female hairdressers behind you? One thing that does worry me slightly is relying too much on Social Media. As good as it is for imagery and connecting people and businesses – it can also create a false sense of reality of what it takes to achieve longevity of success. Use it as a tool to show your work and to connect with others in the industry. But longevity and consistency comes with a lot of hard graft and self-belief!! Another challenge is that clients are very well educated in hair now in all areas, so the level of standards for the up and coming hairdresser needs to exceed their expectations. Being an average hairdresser is not enough – you need to aim high and be the best you can be to survive in a highly competitive arena. Do you think women feel intimated in the hair industry? I would like to say I hope not. We need to reshape our own perception of how we view ourselves. We have to step up as women and take the lead. No one

can make you feel intimidated without your consent. It’s all about confidence. When I am teaching young and experienced hairdressers alike, I will always encourage everyone to never stop learning – knowledge is the backbone of confidence. After your own success is there anything you struggle with now. I feel blessed with the success I have had in my career and no matter how many awards or how much recognition I may have had – I always remember you are only as good as your last haircut or show or photoshoot…… So, when I have an event coming up I still to this day spend hours and days working on it to perfect it. It’s always difficult to come up with new ideas and concepts, but when you get there – creating it is the easy part, and the satisfaction is priceless! What woman inspires you and why? All women in business with a family are a total inspiration to me as I know how hard it is to juggle both – so hats off girls! Emily Pankhurst for all her work for female equality. Vivian Westwood for standing out in a male dominated fashion industry and maintaining the ethos and success of her company. The Fellowship’s Ann Herman: This woman is incredible – she has dedicated her life to the industry and the good of the Fellowship – I call her Dame Herman. How do you achieve a work/life balance? It took me a long time to get the hang of the perfect work/life balance. A ‘plan ahead’ strategy was my lifeline. With three young children, the business and travelling globally it was a tough call to say the least. You have to sacrifice ‘me-time’ as there aren’t enough hours in the day. Now my beautiful girls, whom I am immensely proud of, have successful careers and have flown the nest, my wonderful partner Gary and I make sure we balance our life well, taking time out for breaks, friends and family, our dogs– and of course holidays. Hairdressing is my life and I love every part of it, but I now make sure I live a little too.

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 23


024_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 12:39 Page 1

Blondes

hav e mor e fun

JOICO extends its Blonde Life offering with new colour and care products to keep blondes bright and brilliant.


024_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 12:39 Page 2

ADVERTORIAL

Blonde Life Hyper High Lift Permanent Crème Color

Blonde Life Brilliant Glow Brightening Oil It can be a challenge to keep coloured blonde hair light, bright, and on tone. The Blonde Life range provides all of the care that a blonde needs. Just a single application of new Blonde Life Brilliant Glow Brightening Oil instantly amps up the shine level of even the lightest hair, while nourishing and protecting. It won’t turn the hair brassy as many other oils tend to do, especially in combination with heat styling.

Achieve amazing lift and conditioning with the new breakthrough blonde addition to the JOIcolor System. Blonde Life Hyper High Lift Permanent Crème Color has the power to go pale without bleach, deliver the healthiest blonde, and achieve up to five levels of lift to natural hair without sacrificing a single strand. It’s available in three new shine-enhancing shades: Champagne, Pearl, and Clear Booster. With one-step lightening and toning, plus a built-in hair defencse system that strengthens strands from the inside out, the blonde result will always look beautiful and healthy.

Blonde Life Brilliant Tone Violet Smoothing Foam Keep hair on tone in between salon visits with new Blonde Life Brilliant Tone Violet Smoothing Foam, a dual-action styling breakthrough that tackles brass and leaves hair exceptionally smooth, super soft, and bright. It feels luxuriously creamy and instantly tones blonde hair, banishing brassiness in a single application.

For more information about Blonde Life please visit www.joico-blondelife.com

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 25


026_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 12:40 Page 1

EXPRESS

YOURSELF


026_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 12:41 Page 2

COLOUR CLOSE UP

The Urban artistry of new KMS Stylecolor - what is it? In 3 words:

SPONTANEOUS. ILLUSTRATIVE. CREATIVE. Hair colour is elevated to the realms of style accessories with a new spray-on colour by KMS. Inspired by the streets of Toronto, which exude creativity and urban artistry, this temporary colour spray comes in a range of nine shades from natural hues to contemporary tones, allowing the wearer to change hair colour like clothes. This brand new approach to temporary hair colour offers new flexible ways to accentuate individual styles and encourages clients to experiment with their hair colour as they do with fashion.

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 27


026_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 12:42 Page 3

COLOR + STYLE = STYLECOLOR KMS STYLECOLOR offers unlimited potential for personal expression. Foolproof to apply and hassle-free to remove, the flexible spray boosts hairstyles with temporary colour with strong lasting power. Featuring an innovative matte-metallic formulation, this unique finish ensures each shade looks natural and life-like once applied with no chalky or dusty residue. High pigment guarantees even results on both darker and lighter hair tones. While being waterproof and pillow friendly*, STYLECOLOR washes off easily with shampoo only, meaning no unexpected transfer throughout day or night.

UNIQUE TECHNOLOGY MAKES THE DIFFERENCE The reliability of STYLECOLOR is based on a cutting-edge technology. A polymer complex with a blend of pigments evenly adheres to the hair’s surface and builds a flexible ultra-thin film to guarantee even results on both lighter and darker hair tones and a movable finish. The water repellent surface ensures STYLECOLOR only comes off with shampoo and makes it waterproof and pillow-friendly*. * Results may vary when used with oil-based products.

KMS STYLECOLOR ● Flexible on/off spray-on colour ● Intuitive and easy to use ● Wide variety of contemporary and moderate style tones ● Accentuate and enhance your style ● Guaranteed even results on both lighter and darker hair tones ● Washes off easily with shampoo only

28 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER

“What I love about STYLECOLOR is that it has a mattemetallic finish, which perfectly mimics the texture and appearance of natural, healthy hair. My ultimate styling tip is to brush STYLECOLOR through the hair after applying with a paddle brush to blend the color into hair, creating a seamless finish. With such a versatile range of colors you can use STYLECOLOR to create so many different looks, including balayage, pastel baby lights, streaks, colored panels or even an all-over shade change. They won’t wash out in the rain so your look will last all night – or as long as you do!

SAM BURNETT, GLOBAL STYLE COUNCIL MEMBER.


PRO HAIR FULL PAGE NEW_Layout 1 21/05/2018 14:03 Page 1


030_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 12:43 Page 1

ild M Metallic HOB Salons create a wearable fashion colour edge that clients will love.

Before: Model arrives with previous bleach on a dark blonde base, approximately two weeks of regrowth and a pale yellow undertone.

Step 1. Mix equal parts of Wella Perfecton/8 and Wella Colour Fresh 0/89 together in a bowl.

30 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER

Step 2. Take a zig-zag triangle section from the recession towards the crown.

Step 3. Apply the colour using horizontal sections, working upwards from the ear and using wraps to isolate the hair.


030_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 12:44 Page 2

STEP BY STEP

Step 4. Repeat until you reach the zig-zag at the recession area.

Step 5. Process for 20 minutes.

Step 6. At the basin, apply Wella Colour Fresh Create 0/6 in large sections to the existing blonde areas.

The finished look is a stunning metallic violet-veiled panel. Colour: Sean Nolan at HOB Salons using Wella Professionals Photography: Cara Brown @ The Factory Creative

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 31


032_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 12:44 Page 1

Do the

test!

Protect your clients AND your colour business urges Barrie Stephen. Every year I attend Pro Hair Live and love the mix of business and creative inspiration, but this year I took home a lot more than ever before! As I listened to Debbie Digby, CEO at Passion4hair, talking about how she successfully dealt with a legal claim against chemical services delivered by her business, I felt inspired to act. Debbie’s experiences about how she had been taken to court by an unhappy colour client were all too close to home; I’d had three similar experiences over the past few years, and while that may be a small percentage of my five salons’ colour business, it was definitely one I did not want to live through again! I spoke to Debbie about this straight away, and together we started a campaign, #DONTSKIPTHESKINTEST, which urges every UK salon to publicly commit to skin testing every client before a colour service. Industry data shows that there has been an increase in the number of people suffering from contact allergies relating to hair colourants in recent years, and the danger is that these allergies can occur without warning, even in clients who have been regularly dying their hair for a long period of time. So while you’re not doing anything ‘wrong’ in these situations, reactions to colourants can vary in severity; ranging from rashes and irritation to swelling or permanent disfigurement, while in some very rare, but very high profile cases, even death. At Barrie Stephen Hair, which I am sure is the same at your salon too, we put our clients first, but while their safety is paramount, no win no fee claims against hairdressers are on the increase, so implementing and documenting a Colour Responsible Policy protects your business and the integrity of your stylists. We all know how much a client’s comments on social media can both boost and destroy a business (something less than 10 years ago was nowhere near as big an issue as it is

now!), so imagine the damage that could be done to your reputation and therefore business, if a client shared their story, even though all you did was simply colour their hair as usual! The policy ensures a salon commits to skin testing every client 48 hours prior to any colour service, every time. Using Colourstart patch tests, clients can take them home and use them before the appointment, rather than having to come into the salon beforehand for a skin test. Colourstart patch tests are not difficult or costly to implement, but something that I feel very passionate about and that, as an industry, we need to all be singing off the same hymn sheet, because this could potentially help to save a life, and a lot more salon businesses from costly legal bills. I have launched a petition on Change.org and I am delighted to say it already has more than 600 signatures and that the industry is now beginning to sit up and take notice of this message. Debbie Digby is a fountain of knowledge on the subject and is advising stylists from around the country via the campaign’s Facebook group of the same name. I have heard arguments from some salon owners against skin testing as it takes the spontaneity out of an appointment as upselling colour there and then isn’t possible, but I’d prefer to lose a client here and there knowing that my business, staff and client welfare are all protected.

You can sign the petition now at Change.org.

32 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER


033_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 12:45 Page 16

@____________HAN

@AFROLICIOUSS

@BRAIDSGANG

@COURTGANNHAIR

@HAIRDESIGN_FORYOU

@JAMIESTEVENSHAIR

@CARLBEMBRIDGEHAIR

@LILROCKITDJ

#colourfulhair @LLOYDCOURTHAIR

@MATRIX

@SINCERELYJORDYN

@SUGARPEA_

@MEGANNICCOLLSHAIR

@THATVEGANHAIRDRESSER

@SHERRIEFAYE

@WELLAHAIRUK


DPS NEW_Layout 1 09/08/2018 10:08 Page 1


DPS NEW_Layout 1 09/08/2018 10:09 Page 2


036_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 12:46 Page 1

Blondes

Come To Life

It seems blondes do have more fun – it has certainly been one of the most popular colours for clients of 2018 and is set to stay throughout the remainder of the year. Celebrity makeovers are becoming more apparent and superstar Demi Lovato had a major colour makeover with the JOICO Blonde Life range. Her stylist Amber Maynard from Nine Zero One Salon used JOICO Blonde Life Lightening Powder and JOICO LumiShine Dimensional Deposit Demi-Permanent Crème Shades to give the star her amazing colour makeover! JOICO LumiShine Dimensional Deposit Demi-Permanent Crème Shades are the perfect way to add dimension and long-lasting effects, plus get the stunning shine that only LumiShine® delivers. With 20 luscious hues to choose from, creating dimensional colour becomes simple and foolproof. This versatile product glazes, glosses, tones and blends grey. Colourists can weave the artistry of depth and dimension into every colour creation, while restoring maximum hair health and adding shine – ensuring Demi’s hair is in best condition – leaving hair beautiful, healthy and shiny which clients love! Like Demi, more women are choosing to be blonde – globally about forty-six percent of women who colour go blonde (StatisticBrain.com). Women who choose to go blonde know more than any other what it takes to be blonde and stay blonde; the choice is an investment for clients in more ways than one. Think about the roots, the touch-ups, the toning, the damage, and the dulling; going blonde – and staying fresh-out-of-the-chair blonde – we know is a high-maintenance mission. Going and staying blonde can brighten your client’s life but it can be tough on their hair. Colourists can help clients reach their blonde goals by giving them that beautiful blonde they want using JOICO Blonde Life Lightening Powder for up to 9+ levels of lift – but many struggle with maintenance after. Blondes want to keep the fresh, blonde colour – that healthy, on-tone, gorgeous look – for as long as possible. New JOICO Blonde Life care products; Blonde Life Brilliant Glow Brightening Oil and Blonde Life Brilliant Tone Violet Smoothing Foam help keep coloured blonde hair light, bright, and on tone. Give your clients the royal treatment at home with intensely nurturing, sulfate-free formulas specially formulated to combat the dreaded ‘B’s’ (brassiness, brittleness and breakage) many blondes face after they leave the salon.

36 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER


PRO HAIR FULL PAGE NEW_Layout 1 09/08/2018 12:09 Page 1


DPS NEW_Layout 1 20/08/2018 10:13 Page 1


DPS NEW_Layout 1 20/08/2018 10:13 Page 2


040_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 12:47 Page 1

You, ME+ and KP Wella Professionals’ celebrates its most revolutionary colour innovation for years. Koleston Perfect with ME+ features breakthrough technologies, Pure Balance Technology and ME+, both proven to deliver vibrant rich colour with less damage colour after colour, while ME+ reduces the risk of developing a new allergy to hair colour. The Pure Balance Technology is a patented technology designed to minimise the formation of free radicals during the colour formation by deactivating impurities like metals present in hair. Free radicals interfere with the colour formation during the colour development and are a key cause to hair damage. With Pure Balance Technology the result is even, pure colour results with natural depth and shine and significantly less hair damage, colour after colour. The ME+ technology is a scientific breakthrough designed to replace extreme sensitizers PPD and PTD,

40 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER

greatly reducing the risk of clients developing a new allergy to hair colour. First patented in the 19th century, PPD/PTD have been the leading ingredients in permanent hair colour for over 130 years. New Koleston Perfect with ME+ offers salon clients the brand’s most meaningful change in hair colour innovation in over a century. Pure Balance Technology and ME+ are the result of over seven years of colour science research and over 3,000 formulations tested. It has more than 20 patents. Colour that is significantly more even, balanced and true to tone from root to tip offering better balance of tone and control of depth with up to 100% grey coverage. New Koleston Perfect with ME+ features an incomparable colour line-up with naturals, brunettes, reds and blondes and the inclusion of a special mixing range.


040_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 12:48 Page 2

COLOUR CLOSE UP

Smooth, gentle and extremely easy to apply, Koleston Perfect with ME+ achieves a unique fluidity of colour. The difference in consistency to its previous generation creates a more luxurious experience for the client. This is a major step up in hair colour technology and a major step up for colourists and their clients. ANDREAS KURKOWITZ, WELLA PROFESSIONALS’ GLOBAL COLOUR AMBASSADOR.

New Koleston Perfect with ME+ requires no habit change for stylists as it features the same mixing ratio, the same development time and the same grey coverage, all enhanced with easier mixing, more precise application and an improved fragrance that offers a better experience for colourists and clients.

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 41


DPS NEW_Layout 1 02/08/2018 10:08 Page 1


DPS NEW_Layout 1 02/08/2018 10:09 Page 2


044_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 12:49 Page 1

Syd Hayes for BaByliss PRO


044_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 12:49 Page 2


044_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 12:50 Page 3


Hair: Syd Hayes for BaByliss PRO Make-up: Zoë Taylor Styling: Ellie Witt Photography: Ben Riggott

044_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 12:50 Page 4


PRO HAIR FULL PAGE NEW_Layout 1 20/08/2018 08:58 Page 1


049_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 12:52 Page 1

Schwarzkopf Professional ambassadors get their blonde on for the 2018 BlondMe shoot. The new Schwarzkopf Professional BlondMe range is all about pushing your colour opportunities – while keeping the hair in optimum condition at all times. Who better to bring this to life than the brand’s regional ambassadors who came together to shoot the new BlondMe looks, in a colour story that was all about the power and personalisation of blonde. Whether models had dramatic makeovers or something more subtle, with BlondMe the condition was never compromised – with hair left looking glossy, vibrant, strong and healthy on set. Working individually or in pairs, the artists created a trio of looks, that truly pushed the boundaries of blonde. Sharon Malcom of Sharon Malcolm Hairdressing and Philip Bell from Ishoka worked together to create a rich blonde, complete with flashes of pastel green. For Daniel Granger and Tim Scott Wright, it was all about a blend of babylights and balayage, for a consumer-friendly look, styled in a faux-bob. Finally, Kevin Kahan created a tonal blonde look, complete with a hint of apricot, styled in disco curls.

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 49


050_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 12:54 Page 1

Kevin Kahan


050_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 12:55 Page 2

Professional

Schwarzkopf

Kevin Kahan


050_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 12:56 Page 3

Tim Scott-Wright & Daniel Granger

Sharon Malcolm & Philip Bell


Makeup: Maddie Austin Styling: Clare Frith Photography: Jack Eames

050_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 12:57 Page 4

Tim Scott-Wright & Daniel Granger

Sharon Malcolm & Philip Bell


054_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 12:59 Page 1

Baroque Hair and Styling: Tom O’Brien at Baroque Hair Make-Up: Roseanna Velin Photography: Tony Le Britton


054_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 12:59 Page 2


054_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 13:00 Page 3


054_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 13:01 Page 4


054_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 13:01 Page 5


054_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 13:01 Page 6


060_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 14:34 Page 1

K

A

IN ONIZI

Hair: Akin Konizi at HOB Salons Make-Up: Scarlett Burton Styling: Ozzy Shah Photography: John Rawson


060_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 14:35 Page 2


060_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 14:36 Page 3


060_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 14:36 Page 4


PRO HAIR FULL PAGE NEW_Layout 1 20/08/2018 12:53 Page 1


065_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 14:37 Page 1

SALON INTERIORS

A Tale of Two Salons

We’ve explored two equally beautiful but completely unique salons to find out the thought processes behind choosing themes and designs for your space. Anne Veck has recently relocated and revamped her salon in Bicester to be completely eco-concious, while Katie Grimshaw describes Spectrum One, set in an amazing old bank building in Lancashire. Take a look and get inspired no matter what your style The Reception at SPECTRUM ONE is the most central part of the building, highlighted literally by the 1,600 Italian crystal chandelier hanging above it. Clean lines and zero clutter is the overriding theme and the reception area

Bespoke leather chairs designed by Italian company, Cerotti are carefully

immediately gives off this aesthetic which continues throughout the client’s SPECTRUM ONE experience.

positioned a minimum of 1m apart. 13 stations in total throughout the salon. Clean lines, and carefully hidden work stations behind each mirror, marrying the old with the new

Spectrum One The backwash area has been designed so that it is screened off by the back of the reception area, meaning clients can relax and enjoy their head and neck massage in private which comes as standard with every wash service.

Restored and reinstated downstairs in the salon, the original bank vault door adds some history and reminds us of how the space was previously inhabited.

The mezzanine level was designed to add an element of luxury to cater for private parties including bridal groups and customers who prefer to have a more private appointment.

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 65


065_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 14:38 Page 2

“Inspired by my recent visit to a salon in Namibia, I’ve created an environmentally conscious salon which uses recycled and reconstituted materials and furniture to reduce the carbon footprint of my business.” “I’ve combined the inspiration with my commitment to being as green as possible and the result is an industrial, stripped-back warehouse feel, while still airy, well-lit and welcoming.”

“The coffee table, magazine racks and selfie wall were all from recycled pallets and cable drums.”

Anne Veck “My brothers and I made the reception desk, styling stations, the colour table, retail display, colour bar, cupboards…you name it, we designed and built it!”

made from “The focal feature is the round colour table in the centre of the salon of the hub communal the become it’s and it love Clients drum… cable old huge a too.” drinks cold and coffee tea, limitless salon and they can help themselves to

66 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER


PRO HAIR FULL PAGE NEW_Layout 1 02/08/2018 12:46 Page 1


068_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 14:38 Page 1

Dynamic duos

Fudge Professionals’ new Care range features ten shampoo and conditioners to tackle every hair concern from toning blondes and brunettes to damaged, dull and dry hair, and volume. Each product has re-bonding Opti-Plex™ Technology and 24 HR FRAGRANCEFUSE™, ensuring each hair strand is enveloped in a fragrance infusion lasting 24 hours. All the shampoos are sulfate free. Colour Lock Technology (in all formulas except the blonde and brunette toning shampoos and conditioners) smooths the cuticle, trapping colour in.

TEN BY TWO

Clean Blonde Damage Rewind Shampoo and Conditioner Best for damaged, brassy blondes. Contains max-strength violet micro-pigments that instantly knock out brassy tones. Cool Brunette Blue-Toning Shampoo and Conditioner Best for brunettes with too much red. Contains max-strength blue micro-pigments that instantly knock out orange tones from brunette hair. Damage Rewind Reconstruction Shampoo and Conditioner Best for damaged hair, making it 90% stronger instantly. Xpander Gelee Shampoo and Xpander Whip Conditioner Best for flat, fine hair, this is infused with caffeine and ginseng to help stimulate scalp and hair follicle generation. Fibre-Dense Technology creates 180% visibly thicker hair. Luminizer Moisture Boost Shampoo and Luminizer Weightless Conditioner Best for dull, dry hair, it is formulated with a feather-light micellar oil complex that gently cleanses, moisturises and illuminates each strand. Smoothing-Swish Technology binds to each strand of hair to keep hair soft, full of life and frizz-free for 48 hours.

FUDGE’S REPAIRING HAIR HERO: IS A UNIQUE BOND-BUILDING COMPLEX: Settles into the gaps in the cuticles. Builds new bonds inside the core of the hair. Repairs the hair’s natural protective shield. Regenerates and smooths each and every strand

68 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER


069_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 14:41 Page 1

THE LATEST PRODUCT LINE UP

WHAT’S NEW L’Oréal Professionnel has added three new shades to the DIA Light Milkshake palette in shades 9.1, 8.11 and 10.23. Pick the perfect toning partner for a multi-tonal icy cool look and take your client to an icy cool blonde this season with these “must-have” toners for every type of blonde.

Featuring a brand new innovation – ultra zone with predictive technology – the new ghd platinum+ responds to hair and the way it is styled, controlling heat and predicting individual hair needs. Infinity sensors monitor the heat 250 times per second to maintain the safe for hair temperature of 185°C.

Blonde Life Brilliant Glow Brightening Oil by JOICO instantly amps up the shine level of even the lightest hair while nourishing and protecting. It won’t turn hair brassy and contains smoothing ingredients to fight frizz and it makes hair up to seven times stronger.

Eksperience by Revlon Professional is the first thalassotherapy hair range developed for professional use only. Harnessing the powers of nutrient rich algae and pure sea water from marine springs, the line resolves hair and scalp issues through bespoke treatments inspired by the sea, science and the senses.

milk_shake has unveiled the moisture plus range with organic papaya extract and hyaluronic acid, a treatment that gives the sensation of healthy hair with brand new formulas and a delicious fragrance. The range includes shampoo, conditioner and a Whipped Cream moisturising foam for dry hair.

RootRemedy by Organic Colour Systems is an easy-to-use root applicator that offers a quick fix root touch up on the go, with no mess or fuss. The product washes away in just one shampoo and is available in three shades of Black, Dark Brown and Medium Brown.

Schwarzkopf Professional has launched OSiS+ BOHO REBEL; a new generation of pigmented dry shampoos that result in beautifully refreshed, textured styles. The directly-coloured rice starch allows blondes, brunettes and dark hair shades to enjoy invisible styling – without overburdening and without any white residue.

Retain Heat Styling Spray by Eufora is a multi purpose styler which helps to hold curls or keep hair smooth throughout the day. Apply it to dry hair before heat styling for firm yet flexible hold, heat damage protection up to 220°C and long lasting style retention.

The new Moroccan Collection from WetBrush with its hot, bright and bold printed designs features exclusive, ultra-soft IntelliFlex™ bristles which glide through tangles with ease and allows you to brush with less force and cause less damage.

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 69


070_PH_SEP18 NEW_Layout 1 17/08/2018 14:42 Page 1

bou-tilicious A taste of sophistication for a specialised salon experience, indulge in our collection of boutique brands. Born in the Seychelles, rich and exotic culture is the foundation of Rikoko. Its innovative and multi-functional professional quality product lines, Lock, Prism and Kokobalm, are designed to work in harmony with all beauty rituals, hair textures and global cultures.

70 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER

Balmain Paris Hair Couture has over 40 years of heritage in combining hair essentials with the latest catwalk trends. The collections, which consist of small but complete lines of best selling products, are inspired by backstage secrets and mirror all a woman needs to create the ultimate catwalk inspired look.

R+Co is a collective of forward-thinking and rule-bending hairstylists focusing on an experience. The product, packaging and fragrances are designed to enhance that experience and evoke a feeling, place, style or attitude so you’ll know just by looking at an R+Co bottle or tube what it’s meant to do.

Oribe blends craftsmanship, performance and decades of styling experience from the top of the editorial and salon worlds to create products that push the boundaries of performance. Gels that condition, oils that hold, sprays that don’t flake, skincaregrade shampoos, the products are unique in every category and perform like magic.

Evo strives to be an exclusive salon brand of individuality and integrity – a manufacturer that speaks the truth. Inside bottles of Evo you’ll find luxurious products that give professional results while respecting the environment and you won’t find any unnecessary, over-marketed ingredients, myths or gimmicks.


070_PH_SEP18 NEW_Layout 1 17/08/2018 14:42 Page 2

PRODUCTS

Born in the salon, ECRU New York offers prestige hair products created by professional hair stylists. Its curated collections, Signature, Acacia, Curl Perfect and Texture are designed to treat and perform, allowing you to achieve more with fewer products and deliver endless options for your clients.

Electric is the creation of multiaward winning British hairdresser Mark Woolley, drawing on his love of fashion, music and art. The luxurious salon professional range with its stylish monochrome packaging is expertly formulated to offer guaranteed results on clients, photo shoots and the catwalk.

Italian quality meets nature in Oway products. Formulas are selected and conceived in order to engulf salon clients and staff in a unique multisensory, relaxing, engaging atmosphere. It’s also the first professional haircare line based on zero mile biodynamic extracts, micronised plants, hydrolates and essential oils.

Urban Alchemy simplifies hairdressers’ lives by listening to and observing their daily challenges and coming up with solutions that actually work. It unites hairdressers’ needs and wants with scientists, resources and product designers from all over the globe to bring products to life and create extraordinary solutions.

TAOH is a customised suite of 10 beautiful haircare products created by former President of the Fellowship for British Hairdressing Bruno Marc Giamattei and Gavin Chung. The range includes two Spa shampoos with matching conditioners, an Oil, a Mask and two styling products, Clay and Styling Paste.

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 71


072_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 14:43 Page 1

SPOTLIGHT

The

Right Stuff o! Hello Her

TIGI Copyright Care is the latest innovative product range from TIGI. This new and innovative compact care range delivers a truly customisable service for your clients. 100% professional, the range is only available to salons, which will receive full educational and marketing support.

TIGI Copyright Care includes a new hero: SOS EXTREME RECOVERY TREATMENT. A true ‘hero product’ SOS Extreme Recovery Treatment contains 100 times more Keratin than just using shampoo and conditioner and is clinically proven to repair internal damage, returning hair to virgin condition. The extreme recovery expert treatment system is infused with TIGI’s intense Marine Protein Complex, which penetrates the hair fibre at its core, helping repair and reconstruct. Perfect for severely damaged, over-processed hair, this treatment system helps improve strength and smoothness, leaving hair looking totally renewed and healthy.

72 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER


072_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 14:44 Page 2

SPOTLIGHT

Giving a boost

The Customised Booster Backbar Treatments focus on the treatment phase of the cut and colour service and the TIGI Copyright Care Boosters empower the hairdresser to deliver tailored results you can immediately see and feel. This is a fantastic opportunity to show your unique, expert skills in diagnosing and prescribing the ultimate, personalised treatment in tandem with colour services. Using the nourishing TIGI Copyright Care Treatment Base infused with Keratin, Shea Butter and our Vitamin Complex, select and mix the ideal boosters to create the perfect colour safe treatment for your client. These Boosters are also available for clients to take home as a retail product to give you and the team the opportunity to increase retail sales. • Shine Booster - Expect glossy movement, vibrant colour and light reflecting shine after just one use. • Smooth Booster - Provides anti-humidity and frizz fighting benefits for hair that it is up to 62% smoother.* • Repair Booster - Hair feels dramatically softer and stronger with up to 96% less breakage after just one use.*

It’s about creating soft, beautiful hairstyles people will want to wear. In the salon hairdressers will be empowered to create personalised treatments that work perfectly alongside TIGI Copyright©olour, together with an after-care regime clients can follow at home. Talking to salon owners who have already begun to use the range, I can see TIGI Copyright Care is something they’ve been waiting for. ANTHONY MASCOLO

Needs must

TIGI Copyright Care offers a range of wash and care options to target your client’s key hair needs, for added moisture, volume, repair, clarifying and colour care. The range includes Moisture Shampoo and Conditioner, Volume Shampoo and Conditioner, Repair Shampoo and Conditioner, Clarify Shampoo, Scalp Shampoo, Colour Shampoo and Conditioner, and Toning Shampoo.

www.tigicopyright.com

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 73


PRO HAIR DPS v2_Layout 1 07/08/2018 12:10 Page 1

MANCHESTER 24TH - 25TH FEBRUARY 2019

CUTTING

COLOURING EDUCATING SAVE THE DATE - 24TH - 25TH FEB 2019


PRO HAIR DPS v2_Layout 1 07/08/2018 12:11 Page 2

STYLING

INSPIRING

NETWORKING WWW.PROHAIRLIVE.CO.UK


076_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 14:46 Page 1

Doctor

Barton

investigates...

Andrew Barton is the first hairdresser in the UK to be awarded an Honorary Doctor of Arts degree for his services to hairdressing. Andrew’s passion goes well beyond Beehives, Bobs and Blow-dries, to his inaugural exhibition, and his award winning creative work.

“I have realised through my conversations with the industry at large there are many areas of expertise where we just don’t have enough experience or the right answers to give to our clients and that’s why over the coming issues exclusively for Professional Hairdresser I will be investigating what lies behind those issues and sharing the best advice for the hairdresser. In this special article we tackle hair loss and how better we can best advise our clients.” When people think of trichology they usually think of hair loss. But hair loss is far too generic a term to cover the many causes of hair thinning and loss. Each case is very individual, particular to each client, with specific symptoms, but the impact on that person’s self-esteem and confidence can be debilitating and often the solution is relatively simple. In this feature I am looking at some of the most common causes of hair loss and thinning, and how we can work with our clients to minimise the effects of hair loss and reassure them that they will regain their hair and thickness with our help. VEGAN ISSUES The rise in veganism has very positive health benefits but only if done properly. Eva Proudman, Associate Member of the Institute of Trichologists (AIT) UK Hair Specialists explains: “The vegan diet removes complete proteins, (animal) based proteins, from the diet. The hair requires 25% of our daily protein intake and on substitute and plant proteins, the volumes are really big – 900g of lentils is equal to 250g of chicken in terms of

76 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER

protein. A lot of lentils! Our bodies also have 23 amino acids of which eight are essential and only obtained via our diets. The hair needs all eight essential amino acids which are abundant in complete proteins and less so in plant vegetable or substitute proteins.” So whilst salons may be seeing a rise in thinning hair or chronic telogen effluvium/diffuse hair loss, especially in younger clients, due to a vegan diet, Eva has the following advice: “Chronic telogen effluvium is usually down to lack of protein and low serum ferritin stores. Eating three portions of protein a day is a great start for the hair – snacking on almonds is good and using good quality substitute proteins is advisable. Vegan dietary supplements vary a lot but one of the best is green liquid iron tonic to address low serum ferritin levels and reduce excessive shedding.” If you do have a significant number of vegan clients you should also be reviewing the colour and products you use/retail. It’s illegal in the UK for products to be tested on animals, but some ingredients could be from an animal derivative so it is worth ensuring you fully understand the heritage and content of the products you use and retail. The addition of vegan-friendly products in the salon could add another revenue stream to the business. I strongly believe that consultation is key to looking after our clients properly. The first time they ever visit the salon we should take the time to undertake a comprehensive discussion about their lifestyle as well as their hair wants and needs. This should include their diet – if they are vegan, what supplements


076_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 14:47 Page 2

EDUCATION

factor in acute and chronic telogen effluvium. “Removal of a major organ such as the spleen can lead to excess serum ferritin and a decreased loss to infections. Both can lead to recurrent bouts of telogen effluvium. So as you can see it is vital to have a full in depth consultation to really identify the condition and causes to be able to offer the best prognosis and treatment plan and this should be done by the salon with a trichologist’s expert input.”

they take, plus any prescription medication, illness etc. These are factors that can seriously affect their hair and the treatments we undertake – from colour services to hair extensions and straightening services. As stylists we should ask our clients at each visit if anything has changed – not in an invasive way just as part of our introductory chat. It’s important information as it helps us to manage client expectations and ensure we offer the best service for the look they wish to achieve. This is imperative for hair loss due to illness, which is more complicated as it depends on the nature of the illness and the treatment being received. OPERATION TRAUMA Eva says, “Operations from cosmetic to surgical necessity requiring general anaesthetic will probably have an effect on the hair as a type of telogen effluvium, occurring around three to four months after the operation with an excess shedding and thinning taking place. There are a number of factors to look at – the trauma of the operation, blood loss, change to the body’s function. For example, blood loss could lead to a low serum ferritin level. This is the stored iron in the blood and can be a key causative

CHEMO WORRIES There is a huge fear of hair loss during cancer treatment but again EVA PROUDMAN this should only temporary – and this is where we need to be reassuring clients. The nature of how chemotherapy works is why the hair loss is so dramatic. Eva explains, “Chemotherapy targets fast dividing cells and as hair cells are the second fastest dividing cells in the body they are affected. The chemotherapy causes Anagen Effluvium – meaning it causes the hair to shed during its growing phase. Once treatment is finished the hair should regrow, although a few treatments can cause very sparse regrowth. The reason for colour change in regrowth is due to the melanocytes (cells) that produce melanin also being affected by treatment. However in many cases melanocytes recover and therefore so does the hair colour.” PREGNANT PAUSE And finally whilst having a baby should be a joyous time, post-partum (post pregnancy) hair loss can be devastating. During pregnancy many women ‘bloom’ due to hormonal changes and a healthy dietary focus. However, once the baby arrives things change. Hormones dip, energy levels often plummet due to sleep disruption and poor diet, anaemia or low serum ferritin levels often exist

but are overlooked due to the impact of looking after baby. Post-Partum shedding occurs between four to nine months after giving birth and stopping breastfeeding. It is usually acute and if there is no underlying deficiency will correct itself. So when does it become more serious? Eva says, “If it lasts for nine months or more then you should defiantly being referring a client to a trichologist. I would take a blood test from the client to establish serum ferritin, vitamin B12, vitamin D and zinc levels. I would also consider a thyroid test and hormone profile. Every woman is different and so her underlying causative factors are unique as well. The good news is that the majority of Post-Partum hair loss cases are completely treatable.” WORKING TOGETHER I urge all salons to find a good local trichologist with whom they can work to ensure clients receive a holistic approach to their hair care regime. Obviously not all clients require this service but a partnered approach will ensure a swift diagnosis and avoid months of anguish. As a stylist it is your job to know your client and the aspects of their lifestyle that may affect the service you are offering so you can always prescribe the best advice possible. Our clients trust our professional expertise and we are doing them a disservice if we don’t react accordingly.

My go-to trichologists around the UK are Maria Weijers in Brighton, Iain Sallis, who holds various clinics in the North and obvioulsy, Eva Proudman. All these three expert friends trained at the Institute of Trichologists and recommend www.trichologists.org.uk as the best place to get information and training to help improve your client relationships and personal knowledge of hair loss issues.

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 77


078_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 14:48 Page 1

Gary Hooker and Michael Young have gained global recognition for their beautiful photographic work, inspirational stage shows and down to earth approach to education, and have led their team to award winning success both creatively and in business. 2018 sees the launch of REACH a new and exciting part of their business to deliver renewed education and creative hairdressing to salons throughout the UK and Ireland. Nicola Shannon caught up with the dynamic duo to find out all there is to know about REACH. Nicola: So tell us about REACH, it sounds very exciting! What’s it all about? Michael: REACH is an acronym from ‘Renewed Education and Creative Hairdressing’ and is designed to be accessible and affordable for salons where whole teams can benefit from what it offers. So whether it’s salon education, business seminars or photographic days we will ensure to deliver what salons want. We’ve both been in the industry for a long time and still love what we do. It just feels right to do something a bit different and give something back to the industry. Over the years we’ve had many creative ambassador roles with manufacturers that all deliver amazing education. These are mostly held at academies or regional facilities like wholesalers where salons will send team members along for specific courses. You always get feedback after courses and do become aware as to why delegates are actually there. Quite often they’ve been sent by their manager on a course that they really don’t have a lot of interest in. That said people always learn from education and end up having a great day! Gary: The ‘In Conversation With’ series we do in Professional

78 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER

Hairdresser has given us a great insight into what salon owners think about education now. The industry is definitely changing and education is part of that change. Sending team members on courses can be quite costly for salons when you consider travel and accommodation etc., so it can seem like a lot of expense just to send one or two team members on a course rather than the whole team being inspired. It can also be quite overwhelming and slightly intimidating for some people to visit an academy or training facility and our experience has shown us that people just seem more comfortable within their own environment. Michael: The team at REACH will create bespoke days tailor-made to salons’ specific requirements. We liaise with the salon owner/manager and establish what it is their team really wants and needs. Education should be fun, motivating and inspiring for the whole team. Programs can consist of a full workshop style day, full look and learn or spilt days. The content can be very much created to suit the salon and either focus on one specific area or several. REACH is not your ‘normal’ salon education as it has so much more to offer.


078_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 14:49 Page 2

EDUCATION

Nicola: In what way is it different? What can salons expect? Gary: As well as education we offer business seminars designed to inspire and motivate stylists and entire teams in areas like building a clientele, retailing skills and building a brand. It’s really exciting to be able to share everything we know with other salons to help them grow and achieve great things. Michael: A big part of REACH is the photographic workshops and shoots we offer which is very exciting for salons who want to get their foot on the ladder photographically. Doing your own shoot can be a terrifying experience, even knowing where to start can be a nightmare! We’ve all been there. I’ve always had a passion for photography throughout my hairdressing career and have had the pleasure of working with some incredible photographers over the years. I suppose it was just a matter of time before I’d get behind the camera. Over the past four years I’ve shot some incredible collections for the H&Y team and several other salons, which have been a great success with some amazing media coverage. Nicola: Wow, this does sound exciting. Professional Hairdresser has published quite a few of the collections you’ve shot, you definitely have an eye for a good picture. Michael: Actually you guys published my first ever collection as a photographer, which was a real moment for me! It felt the same as the first time a hairdresser has their work published in a magazine.

of a shoot to be more of workshop style day where they find out all you need to know about putting a shoot together. There’s a lot to know and a day like this puts you on the right path and gives you the confidence to move forward to the next stage of actually doing a shoot.

we want to create days like these to help other salons create their own images. Nicola: Is REACH linked to any other brand or manufacturer? How accessible is it for salons to book days with you? Michael: Although it’s not directly linked to another brand we have an International Ambassador role with Schwarzkopf Professional where we work closely with Kay Brady National PPS Manager for the UK and Ireland. REACH is a really good fit with what SKP already offer as part of their education prospectus which means SKP salons will have maximum exposure to REACH through Schwarzkopf education. The HOOKER & YOUNG website will have a dedicated page to REACH with all the relevant information anyone would need to make enquiries or bookings. There’s a direct email for contact, which is reach@hookerandyoung.co.uk

Michael: If a salon is ready to do a shoot, there a several options we can offer. As a first shoot I think it’s a great idea to get the whole salon onboard so it’s a real team effort and everyone gets involved at some level. The shoot can take place at their salon where we come to you and to make the shoot totally accessible to the whole team. We get involved from the word go and can help with budgets, putting a team together, from models, make-up and styling all of which can be sourced locally with planning. We also have a studio up north where smaller teams or stylists can come to us. This gives us more options photographically and access to different models etc.

Nicola: Putting a shoot together is a big task, what involvement will you have with salons you work with?

Nicola: It sounds like a great opportunity for salons to get into the photographic side of things with you boys sharing your experience and knowledge of your own shoots.

Gary: Depending on the salon we will have as much involvement as needed. Some salons want their first experience

Gary: That’s exactly what it is. Other salons often ask us: How do you get into photographic work? Which is really why

Gary: The time do this this just feels right and we have a great team around us at REACH who have a lot to offer and share, which is really exciting for us. The ambassador roles we have with Schwarzkopf and WAHL will only strengthen what we have to offer by being able to connect other salons with such great brands. One happy customer “Working with Michael Young was a great experience , a true professional. The preparation and organisation made the shoot flow smoothly and the creativity to flow. A gentleman to work with, communicative and creative , he has delivered a collection for me of amazing images that tell the story perfectly. Working at his home studio added to the relaxed yet productive environment , and his vast knowledge of our industry shines through immensely. I would definitely encourage other salons to work with the guys at REACH, it was a great experience!” Martin Fox

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 79


080_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 14:50 Page 1


080_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 14:52 Page 2

ADVERTORIAL

Five years in the making, the new ghd platinum+ is the world’s first smart styler that predicts your hair’s needs. Featuring revolutionary new innovation – ultra-zone with predictive technology – the ghd platinum+ responds to your clients’ hair and the way that you style it, controlling heat and predicting individual hair needs. The ultimate result is stronger, healthier hair. The technology Developed in top secret labs by ghd scientists and engineers over the last five years, new ultra-zone with predictive technology is the latest breakthrough in heat styling and guarantees homogeneous heat across the whole styler plate. • Cutting-edge predictive technology recognises the thickness of your clients' hair as it is passed through it and the speed at which you are styling and adjusts to constantly maintain the optimum styling temperature. • Infinity sensors monitor the heat 250 times per second to maintain the safer-for-hair temperature of 185°C. • No matter what hair type you are working with, or your styling technique, ghd platinum+ will ensure you always receive perfect, personalised results for all hair needs.

ghd has just made the best styler even better! The thing that I love most about the ghd platinum+ is that it features the most incredible SMART technology that adapts to every individual’s hair needs and this has made styling so easy for me. No matter whether a client has super thick hair or incredibly fine hair, I know that by using the platinum+ I will get a consistent results and a beautifully smooth finish across every hair type ADAM REED, GHD GLOBAL AMBASSADOR

For more information and to try ghd platinum+ for yourself, contact your ghd account manager or call 01924 423400.

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 81


PRO HAIR FULL PAGE NEW_Layout 1 06/08/2018 10:24 Page 1


083_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 14:54 Page 1

PHIL SMITH

The Things No-One Tells You Before you Open your own Salon. Award-winning hairdresser and reputed businessman Phil Smith shares his secrets to success in a new business series. 1. Don’t believe your own hype. 2. Don’t expect to have a holiday in the first two years. Or a day off. 3. Don’t expect to make a profit in the first twelve months. Or anything substantial in the first three years. 4. There will be ups and downs. Mostly downs. Regardless, if you have drive and ambition then opening your own salon is the best professional move of your life. When I opened my first salon in 1989, it was a flop. Actually, I never even managed to get it open, I failed at the first hurdle of sorting out the lease. I had been working and learning in the comfort of an established salon and thought I knew it all. It became very clear very quickly that I didn’t. I’d see the salon I was working in take £4,000 every Saturday, do the sums and think that my boss was raking it in. Of course, I know now that the majority of income generated from any salon goes right out the door and not the owner’s pocket. I’m glad that it failed, in hindsight. It forced me to consider my options and drove me to try again. This time I went down the franchise route and ended up opening the 7th TONI&GUY salon in the UK. And again, it was a disaster. I dismissed all location advice and opted for somewhere beautiful but small. Salisbury had a population of only 30,000 people and while the salon was busy, and I thought we were doing well, the figures just didn’t add up. Again, I wasn’t taking the outgoings into consideration so when the P&L sheet arrived I thought I was £15,000 in profit. I wasn’t. It was in debt. This is where I learnt my first serious lesson. A good hairdresser does not make a great business. I had thought that because I was passionate and could cut hair well that I’d be a success. I had believed in my own hype. Toni Mascolo took me aside and warned me the shop wouldn’t last another six months at the rate it was operating. From here, I learned the meaning of hard graft. I worked 18 hours a day, opened seven days a week, including bank holidays. Failing was not an option. I was living in a shared apartment, with no money and a load of debt.

It forced me to figure out a formula so that opening a franchise would work and within 10 years I ended up opening 28 global TONI&GUY salons. It sounds exciting, and financially it did become lucrative but only at the cost of my social and family life. I worked and travelled to the salons continuously. No days off. No holidays. Yes, I was winning industry awards and shooting with Anthony Mascolo, but I missed friends’ weddings, family parties and precious time when my children were little. You don’t get those moments back. As I was when I was a young stylist, people can be naive. It often looks from the outside that people have no financial worries – they have a business, maybe even a product line but that doesn’t necessarily mean there is money in the bank. Everything with business has to be reinvested – you need to play the long game. Living hand-to-mouth is not possible when you have the responsibility of a team, a mortgage, etc. If you are considering opening a salon, I promise it can be the best career decision, but you cannot be naive in the dedication it takes. All your time, energy and financial commitment has to be focused on the salon. Don’t think that managing or working full time in someone else’s salon is any comparison to running your own. Yes, you have full control. Yes, your name can be above the door, but there is no off switch, no escape. Holidays don’t happen as easily as before and even then you’re still responsible for the business. Emails before bed, first thing in the morning and sometimes in the middle of the night, opening your own salon is like having a child. For the first three years they demand your full attention, they cannot operate without you. You loose sleep, your social life disappears and you often forget to eat. However, I’d say that after three years of growing, nurturing and loving your salon you’ll start to see it standing on its own two feet. And when this happens, when you can take a step back and look at everything you put into the salon, you will smile like never before. The wrong moves, the accountant meetings, the missed parties, the sleepless nights they will all fade away and what remains is the best decision you’ll ever make.

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 83


084_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 14:54 Page 1

JULIE ELDRETT

AN INDUSTRY IN CRISIS? Following on from my July/August article and in particular the interesting and passionate comments Ken Main made after reading my May article, (for those of you who read that article you will see that I wrote about using the same heading ‘An Industry in Crisis?’ back in 2015). So I’m pleased to share with you all yet more comments in response to last month’s article. This month’s comments are from Paul Hawes of Review Hairdressing. However, before you read all of Pauls comments I would like to say from my point of view it’s great to hear what other people feel, think and are experiencing during these uncertain times as you will read from Paul’s comments this month. But first let me share how he finished his email: “Thanks to you Ken and Julie for making me feel I’m far from the only one!!!” This for me speaks volumes as I can remember while having salons of my own how lonely I felt and how great it was when I spoke to other salon owners having similar challenges especially when you share other ideas too. You may think you are on your own, but believe me as soon as you get talking to other salons and share your experiences good and bad I’m sure like me you will come away with renewed energy …to fight another day! Big Shout Out to all who have allowed me to share their comments to hopefully show you all while reading this article that we are in this together. Paul then went on to say “What great points you made Ken and so glad Julie added them to her article, the comments you made are something my business partner and I discuss all the time. We also run a City and Guilds training academy, but it appears schools encourage their students to go to college, after a year we are interviewing more disenchanted 17 yr olds that have, it seems, wasted a year and want commercial experience alongside training that requires them to be able to do the task such as a cut, colour or even a Perm in the time a client would find expectable and to a finish they would eventually pay for.”

84 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER

Paul’s final comment is something I hear a lot from other people in our industry and it is this: “The industry doesn’t need to be in crisis, it needs all hairdressing businesses no matter how big or small, barbers or salons to put their money they take in the till and not their pockets, and someone to govern the industry properly. We know we are at a disadvantage as our part time staff work three days for US and two for THEMSELVES. We contribute to their tax, national insurance and pension to make them legally employed whilst they earn untaxed income at home. If you increase prices you are sometimes increasing their cash income as the client will tell them it’s unaffordable and suddenly they’ve gained another client, and you have increased their wage both ways. We have had to discuss this with some staff members and remind them we can’t afford to subsidise their home hairdressing and make them aware we are AWARE!” There is a lot to think about in the comments from Professional Hairdresser readers so if you want to discuss any of the points that have been mentioned further in this month’s article, then please get in touch with Paul: reviewuk@btconnect.com. Quick Tip from me: We are now approaching a very busy period in the hairdressing calendar. Have you started getting everything ready for the months ahead? I will be sharing more information in my October article so get your thinking caps on ready. (Bravo to those of you who have already started!). Remember: “It’s not what you do, It’s the way that you do it” Julie x Julie@julieeldrettconsulting.com www.julieeldrettconsulting.com 0797 122 6987


PRO HAIR FULL PAGE NEW_Layout 1 01/08/2018 10:08 Page 1


086_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 14:55 Page 1

PAUL RALPH

Seven ways to stamp out negative salon cultures Paul Ralph, Assistant Manager at Brooks & Brooks, London, looks at how to cultivate a positive salon culture. When a team becomes complacent sometimes the culture of the salon can become negative. This can manifest into staff being unprofessional in the salon, calling in sick more frequently, and being regularly late, amongst other things. Here are my seven tips on tackling the problem and getting your salon’s working culture back on track.

● Have a balanced team What I mean by this is to have a team that is varied and different – employing staff who each bring something different to the table. If you have a team where many members are very similar, a clique may form. This can create a negative culture which is not a great environment to walk into. Some clients may like it but not all. To be a successful salon in the current market you need to be accessible to everyone. Having a balanced team will prevent a clique from forming and could improve the success of your business.

● Create a clear salon manifesto The salon manifesto is a written document stating your views and intentions as a business. It should include what your salon stands for, your aims in terms of the level of service you provide, guidelines and expectations on how staff conduct themselves in the work place, rules on how team members report absence and lateness, and a breakdown of disciplinary and grievance procedures. All team members should be given this document at the beginning of their employment. With this, you will have begun establishing the culture you want within your team. If for any reason they do not fulfil their duties you then have this as a point of reference to deal with the situation appropriately.

● One rule suits all Now your staff are aware of the rules, it is your duty to uphold your side of the agreement. Everyone should be treated fairly. The same rules must apply to your most junior staff as well as your most senior staff. Singling anyone out will only bring resentment and start to breed a negative culture within the salon.

● Keep sickness records and hold back-to-work interviews As a manager, sickness and lateness is one of the most disappointing parts of my job. Hairdressers know it is very difficult to call in sick or arrive late for work – we have clients booked in. Of course, we all fall ill from time to time, we are only human after all. However, there are always those repeat offenders who seem to be late often or call in sick

far too regularly. This type of culture is very bad for business and, in the long run, could lose you clients. To help combat this it is advisable to hold back-to-work interviews every time someone is off sick. This consists of a questionnaire, which the staff member fills out in front of you, stating the reason why they were absent. This is then filed and becomes a reference for you to watch for patterns of sickness, and can be used as evidence if you have to go through a disciplinary procedure.

● React quickly When your salon culture is not meeting what you have stated in your manifesto it is advisable to deal with the situation immediately. Do not let it simmer in the background, because one day that simmer will hit boiling point and it will be a hard job to return to normal. Be direct with your staff, remind them what your salon values are, do not be afraid to talk to them. Be firm and strong but always remain fair. You now have your manifesto to back you up. The rules are in place for a reason and they must be up held at all times. If you let these standards drop you will lose control of the culture which you have created.

● Hold regular team meetings Regular team meetings work as a reminder of what your salon stands for. They give both management and staff the opportunity to express how they believe things are going in the salon. Hopefully they will always be positive, allowing you to share how well everyone is doing. As a team, you can discuss and plan to change certain cultures within the salon. Unfortunately, there will occasionally be a negative, but it is best to get this spoken about and dealt with quickly. These meeting do not have to be long, about 20-30 minutes once a month is fine. They do aide you in keeping a firm grip on how the salon, and the team, is performing.

● Create motivational job roles I am a firm believer that empowering your staff builds a hard-working culture within the salon. Offering staff senior roles within the salon, for example, head assistant, educator or floor manager will encourage them to work a little harder as well as taking off a little pressure from you. Your staff will feel motivated and see the bigger picture of what you are trying to achieve. Each of these roles should start with a detailed job description, stating what you expect from them in this role. Other team members may then aim to gain these roles in the future, giving them something to work towards.

Find out more about the Brooks & Brooks team: www.brooksandbrooks.co.uk Instagram: @brookshair

86 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER


087_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 14:56 Page 1

ADVERTORIAL

MAKING A PROFIT

DO YOU CROSS YOUR FINGERS AND HOPE FOR THE BEST WHEN IT COMES TO MAKING A PROFIT? IF SO, IT’S TIME TO TAKE A HANDS-ON APPROACH, SAYS THE NHF. FIND OUT WHAT YOU CAN DO TO BOOST YOUR INCOME AND CUT COSTS IN YOUR SALON.

CUTTING YOUR COSTS “Keep on top of all your outgoings by regularly reviewing them,” says NHF chief executive Hilary Hall. Make your team cost-conscious so they understand profit margins and how much difference reducing waste can make. ❍ Encourage your staff to upsell treatments and products. ❍ Minimise wasted time between appointments. ❍ Always shop around for the best utility and telecoms deals. ❍ Keep a tight control over stock levels. ❍ Make sure you get the best banking and insurance deals (NHF Members benefit from 20% off business insurance and get discounts on other key business needs). ❍ Hire a professional lease negotiator when your lease comes up for renewal – this can save you thousands of pounds a year.

Raising your prices “Salons often hesitate to raise their prices,” says Hilary. “But remember that your clients come to you because they like your salon, not because you’re cheap. It can make good sense to clients if you increase prices at the start of the financial year.”

Ramp up your retail “Make sure all your staff understand how important retail sales are to making a healthy profit,” says Hilary. “Encourage staff to ‘educate and sell’ during consultations and appointments, and make sure your retail display is attractive NHF Members can download a free in-depth guide to prices, wages and profits: www.nhf.info/profits-guide

with individual items clearly priced.” Other tips include displaying impulse buys at your reception desk and offering a monthly prize for best salon salesperson. Find out how to make your staff retail savvy: www.nhf.info/retail Come on an NHF workshop to find out how to grow your profits. Events include ‘Wages, prices and profits’ and ‘Growing your retail sales’: www.nhf.info/events

Be cash flow confident “Running out of cash is a major cause of business failure,” says Hilary. “You’ll need to create a cash flow forecast so you know exactly how much money will be coming in and how much will be going out. It’s not rocket science, but it is an extremely important part of your financial planning.” Find out more about taking control of your cash flow: www.nhf.info/cashflow

More from the NHF Looking for vital business support and brilliant ideas to help boost your bottom line? Join the NHF for less than 75p a day and benefit from: • Free 24/7 legal and commercial helplines. • Free employment and chair renting contracts. • Free access to our friendly and knowledgeable membership team. • Valuable discounts on business insurance. Find out more: www.nhf.info/join

JOIN THE NHF BEFORE THE END OF SEPTEMBER 2018 AND QUOTE PROSEP25 TO GET £25 OFF YOUR MEMBERSHIP FEE.


088_PH_SEP18_Layout 1 17/08/2018 14:56 Page 1

STEP BY STEP

Head curl

Curlformers by Hairflair are a curling solution for salons to use when curling or perming hair. With three sizes of Curlformers: barrel, spiral and corkscrew, this easy-to-use system allows stylists to simply pull the Curlformers onto damp hair and leave to dry. Because hair sets from damp to dry the curl has brilliant longevity and even works on hair that struggles to hold a curl. Great for in salon or session work, these are easy-to-use for everyone from a creative director to an apprentice.

1

Brush out any tangles from the hair and damp down using the Flairosol water spray. Do not saturate hair – it only needs to be damp. Over soaking increases drying time.

2

Section the hair - keeping the section random ensures a natural result. Pull the Curlformers onto the application hook, take a section at the root, hook in and pull through the Curlformer. Repeat throughout the head.

3

4

To speed up drying time, place on a Hairflair Softhood - these are designed to fit all hand held dryers up to 2.25 inches/5.5cm diameter.

Remove a Curlformer and check hair is dry – if not, re-apply the Curlformer as before. When dry, remove all of the Curlformers.

88 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER

5

Release the curls with your fingertips for the finished glossy, ribbon/defined curls with healthy shine and no damage to fragile hair. Apply product if required. Style as desired – you can leave the curls in defined curls or work them out into a looser style.

Profile for Hamerville Media Group

Professional Hairdresser September 2018  

Professional Hairdresser September 2018