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WATC H M A K I N G O V E R T W O C E N T U R I E S

P A S S I O N AT E LY D I F F E R E N T

MOSER SCHAFFHAUSEN AG SWITZERLAND


THE PRESENT-DAY COMPANY HEADQUARTERS OF MOSER GROUP AG ARE IN THE IMMEDIATE VICINIT Y OF THE RHINE FALLS AT SCHAFFHAUSEN. EUROPE’S L ARGEST WATERFALL AT TR ACTS VISITORS FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD EVERY YEAR. AT AN AVER AGE FLOW, around 700 CUBIC METRES OF WATER PER SECOND CASCADE OVER THE ROCKS AND OFFER A SPECTACUL AR SIGHT.


CONTENTS

CON T EN TS

FOREWORD

9

10 13

T H E M O S E R WAT C H M A K I N G DY N A S T Y I N S C H A FFH AU S E N

H E I N R I C H M O S E R T H E WATC H M A K E R C O M PA N Y, B R A N D N A M E A N D S E A L

24

TURN OF THE MILLENNIUM

28

M O S E R P E R P E T UA L 1

P E R P E T UA L C A L E N DA R A N D F L A S H C A L E N DA R

36

P erpetual M oon

C O M PA N Y H I S T O RY

VISIONS

CENTRE SECONDS M O S E R D ouble barrel

42

MONARD

50 58

M O N A R D DAT E

A LT E R N AT I N G 12- A N D 24 - H O U R D I S P L AY AU TO M AT I C PAW L W I N D I N G S Y S T E M

66

M AY U

T H E B ig date F R O M M O S E R

M eridian

WHEELS, PINIONS AND LE VERS H acking second

76

H E N RY D O U B L E H A I R S P R I N G

84

LIMITED COLLECTORS EDITIONS

90

T E C H N I C A L D E TA I L S

S T R AU M A N N D O U B L E H A I R S P R I N G

TE AM SPIRIT AND SPECIALISTS DOUBLE PULL CROWN ( DPC ) MECHANISM T H E S T R AU M A N N H A I R S P R I N G ® INTERCHANGE ABLE ESCAPEMENT MODULE THE CR AF TSMAN’S ART FINISHING

10 3

T I M E L I N E

10 8

IMPRINT

7


8

14-CAR AT GOLD HUNTER POCKET WATCH WITH MINUTE REPEATER AND CHRONOGR APH, CA 1900


FOREWORD

FORE WORD It gives me great pleasure, dear watch enthusiast, to intro-

riod. Among other things, we were awarded the prestig-

duce you to the watches from H. Moser & Cie in this new

ious Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève for our Moser

edition of our catalogue, although the origins of the com-

Perpetual 1. New calibres, such as the Henry Double

pany actually go back some 180 years. The history encom-

Hairspring with its revolutionary new escapement sys-

passes the life of my great-grandfather Heinrich Moser,

tem, and, most recently, the first Moser watch with auto-

born more than 200 years ago, who had already gained an

matic winding, have also found a place in our family of

international reputation as a watchmaker by the age of 21,

watches.

and the successful relaunch of the H. Moser & Cie brand in 2005.

It fills me with pride and joy today, as the great-grandson of Heinrich Moser, to have returned to the place where he

At the beginning of the 21st century, in the course of his

used to work and to be able again to present watches that

research, the Schaffhausen horologist Dr. Jürgen Lange

are entitled to bear the name of such an important and

came across the Moser watch dynasty including me as one

innovative man.

of the descendants. The desire to revive the H. Moser & C

ie

watch brand arose from our subsequent meeting. I was delighted to accept the honourable task of representing the company externally. Today our thanks are due primarily to the friends of the house of Moser, who have remained loyal to us for so long, and in particular to our highly committed shareholders and employees. The new start would not have been possible without their keen interest and their passionate involvement. We can look back with pride over everything that has happened during this pe-

ROGER NICHOL AS BALSIGER HONOR ARY CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD OF DIRECTORS MOSER GROUP AG SCHAFFHAUSEN, MARCH 2012

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T HE MOSER WATCHM A K IN G DY N A S T Y IN SCH A FFH AUSEN Schaffhausen’s reputation as an important watchmaking

More than 30 other watchmakers are listed in the town

town can be traced back to the middle of the 16th cen-

records in the 17th century. Yet not until Johannes Moser

tury. Joachim Habrecht, who received the Town Charter

(1730–1820), the grandfather of Heinrich Moser, would

of Schaffhausen in 1539, went on to build the astronomi-

the town again see a watchmaker whose works have stood

cal clock for the Schaffhausen Fronwagturm tower, which

the test of time. As town watchmaker and magistrate in

is still in operation. His two sons, Isaac (1544–1620) and

the local court, Johannes Moser was a respected figure.

Josias (1552–1575) Habrecht, built the second astronomical clock in Strasbourg Cathedral and were among the most famous watchmakers of their age. A table clock by Isaac Habrecht exhibited at the Museum of Applied Arts and Design in the city of Winterthur bears witness to the artistic skills and refined craftsmanship of the watchmakers of that period. In the master enameller and engraver Georg Michael Moser (1706–1783), the town once again produced a horological craftsman whose fame would spread beyond its boundaries. His elaborately executed gold cases adorn many a collection of important watches. Georg Michael Moser, a distant relative of Heinrich Moser, also became a founding member of the British Royal Academy of Arts in later years.

TABLE CLOCK SIGNED «JOHANNES MOSER IN SCHAFFHAUSEN», CA 1770, HOMBERGER COLLECTION, SCHAFFHAUSEN


WATC H M A K I N G DY N A S T Y

He established the Moser watchmaking dynasty with the

IWC kept the watchmaking tradition of Schaff hausen

trade mark of the highest quality and superb craftsman-

alive for a great many years and with a very chequered

ship. His son Erhard Moser (1760–1829) succeeded him in

history. Not until 2002 would far-sighted, entrepreneurial

the trade of town watchmaker. Like his father before him,

courage once again provide the stimulus for a new, «old»

Erhard Moser was also well known beyond his occupa-

H. Moser & Cie watch factory.

tion as a watchmaker as a member of the Grand Council and Town Commissioner. He introduced his son Hein-

The records tell us that the establishment of his watch busi-

rich Moser, born in 1805 in the «Haus zum Blauen Him-

ness in Schaffhausen was indeed Heinrich Moser’s lifelong

mel» in Schaffhausen, to the watchmaker’s craft.

dream. Now, more than 200 years after the birth of Heinrich Moser in Schaffhausen, the story of an enterprise

The artistic skill of Heinrich Moser’s creations very soon

which first set up in business in St. Petersburg in 1826 has

gained him international respect and recognition. He be-

come full circle with the relaunch of the H. Moser & Cie

came the leading Schaff hausen exponent of this craft

brand.

with businesses in St. Petersburg and Le Locle, among other locations. He opened a workshop for the manufacture of watch cases in Schaffhausen in 1853, and he established a school for watchmakers in 1856. He supported F. A. Jones in the foundation of the International Watch Company (IWC) in 1868 by providing him with premises and low-cost electricity supplied via a power transmission system.

VERGE POCKET WATCH SIGNED «ERHARD MOSER A SCHAFFHOUSE» EARLY 19TH CENTURY

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C O M PA N Y H I S TO RY

HEINRICH MOSER T HE WATCHM A K ER Heinrich Moser was born on 12 December 1805 into the

As an ambitious and visionary watchmaker, Heinrich

large family of the town watchmaker of Schaffhausen,

Moser decided to set up in business in distant Russia.

Erhard Moser. He grew up in 19th-century Schaffhausen

Imperial Russia at that time was regarded as an excellent

surrounded by the tradition and experience of a watch-

labour and sales market and as a sound trading base for

making dynasty consolidated over several generations. He

watches. In order to prepare for this challenge, Heinrich

worked in the family business from 1820 to 1824, where

Moser used his free time to build watches and tools that

he learned the traditional watchmaker’s craft from his

would facilitate his start-up in business. He had the equiv-

father, and subsequently broadened his knowledge in the

alent of around 2,000 Swiss francs in cash at the time of

watchmaking town of Le Locle in western Switzerland. In

his departure in November 1827.

1826, Heinrich Moser started work on his own account and built clocks into cases and pieces of furniture for a

His journey to St. Petersburg in 1827 was anything but

German merchant. His plans to succeed to the position of

comfortable. Heinrich Moser travelled by coach via

town watchmaker after the death of his father, a vocation

Karlsruhe and Weimar to Stettin, and onwards by pas-

which had been performed by the family for two genera-

senger ship to St. Petersburg.

tions, were thwarted by the town council in Schaffhausen. He would hold this against the authorities for the rest of his life.

HEINRICH MOSER’S PASSPORT, DATING FROM 1872

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GOLD MINUTE REPEATER BY HEINRICH MOSER, END OF THE 19TH CENTURY


C O M PA N Y H I S TO RY

After working for a number of employers as a watchmaker,

Urban JĂźrgensen or Jaeger-LeCoultre. Their records list

he founded his own company in St. Petersburg at the end

him as a regular customer from 1860.

of 1828. This marked the inception of the highly successful H. Moser & Cie brand. Alongside expensive precision

Heinrich Moser’s constant quest for quality was crowned

watches and watches designed as pieces of jewellery, Hein-

by success. He supplied the Imperial Court, various

rich Moser also offered a range of simple watches.

princes and the armed forces in Russia. Within just a few years, he was selling watches to Persia, China and Japan,

In the course of developing his trading network, he real-

as well as New York and Paris, where his brother Georg

ized that a successful wholesaler would also benefit from

Moser was also working as a watchmaker. Only 15 years

being a manufacturer at the same time. Heinrich Moser

after founding his company, Heinrich Moser was the un-

accordingly established a watch factory in Le Locle in

disputed market leader in the Russian watch trade. He

1829, which manufactured watches exclusively for his

returned to his home town of Schaffhausen as a prosper-

own businesses. This enabled him to guarantee the high

ous watch manufacturer and merchant at the end of 1848.

quality of the products bearing his name. He was later made an honorary citizen of Le Locle in recognition of his services to the town in the Swiss Jura. One of the company buildings exists there to this day and is listed as a historic monument. In addition to the movements produced in his own factory in Le Locle, he also purchased movement blanks from such prestigious companies as

BUSINESS DEALINGS WITH NEW YORK AND PARIS IN 1867 AND 1868

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C O M PA N Y H I S TO RY

In addition to watchmaking, Heinrich Moser’s life fol-

Charlotte, née Mayu, in 1850 thus curtailed Moser’s oth-

lowing his return to Switzerland was also characterized

erwise seemingly inexhaustible creative power for a while.

by other projects combined with restless creativity. With

She would not live to see the completion of the Charlot-

his pioneering spirit, he initiated the transformation of

tenfels country estate near Schaffhausen, which had been

the previously sleepy town of Schaffhausen into a dy-

named after her. Heinrich Moser was similarly never able

namic industrial location. In 1851, Heinrich Moser com-

to reconcile himself to the fact that his only son, Henri

pleted the construction of a channel on the River Rhine,

Moser (1844–1923), never took up the reins of his father’s

which provided the water power to drive a turbine with an

watch business.

output of around 80 hp. This was followed in 1853 by a joint venture with other Schaffhausen personalities for

Heinrich Moser died on 23 October 1874. Present-day

the establishment of Schweizerische Waggonfabrik bei

visitors to Schaffhausen continue to experience the spirit

Schaff hausen (Swiss Wagonworks at Schaff hausen),

of Heinrich Moser. The house

which changed its name to Schweizerische Industrieges-

where he was born, known as the

ellschaft (SIG) Neuhausen (Swiss Industrial Company

«Haus zum Blauen Himmel», and

Neuhausen) in 1863. He was also a co-founder of the

the Charlottenfels country manor

Schaff hausen–Winterthur railway line in 1853. In the

still exist. A modern power station

winter of 1863/64, Heinrich Moser embarked on the con-

now stands on the dam on the Riv-

struction of the largest Swiss dam at that time on the

er Rhine. The majority of the com-

River Rhine at Schaffhausen, which enabled him to sup-

panies founded by or with the sup-

ply neighbouring industrial companies with inexpensive

port of Heinrich Moser are

energy via a power transmission system. The subsequent

operating successfully to this day.

establishment of Wasserwerk Gesellschaft Schaffhausen

The residents of Schaff hausen

(Schaff hausen Waterworks Company) in 1865 marked

have honoured their fellow citizen

the dawn of the industrial age in Schaffhausen.

by naming Moserstrasse after him, with his bronze bust in the Moser-

His professional success and the acceptance of Heinrich

garten park and, not least, with the Charlottenfels coun-

WATCHMAKER’S WORKPL ACE

Moser in social circles contrasted sharply with his private

try estate, which is open to the public. The top floor of

IN THE WATCH ROOM

life, which was at times overshadowed by considerable

this building now houses the Moser Family Museum,

disappointments. The premature death of his first wife

with a watch room full of testimonies to his tireless creativity.

CHARLOT TENFELS COUNTRY MANOR NEAR SCHAFFHAUSEN, NOW THE SITE OF THE FAMILY MUSEUM

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C O M PA N Y H I S TO RY

COMPA N Y, BR A ND N A ME A ND SE A L The fi rst internationally ac-

The range at times consisted of up to 70 different calibres.

tive company founded by

Moser sold to the Imperial Court, to various princes and

Heinrich Moser in 1828 was

to the armed forces. In Japan, China and Persia, but also

the St. Petersburg trading

in Paris and New York: The name H. Moser & Cie stood

company, H. Moser & Co.

for quality and met the highest expectations throughout

From this name, he devel-

the world.

oped the company signature in Latin and Cyrillic script,

Heinrich Moser also included

which was almost always accompanied by a seal. In 1829,

other watch companies among

he opened a watch factory in Le Locle under the name

his customers. For example, the

«H. Moser & Cie» or also «H. Moser & Co.». These trade

famous Fabergé table clocks

marks were used as the standard signature on all the watch-

were equipped almost without

es supplied by Moser’s watch business until around 1918.

exception with movements produced by Moser; even at that

His watches were of the best quality, and Heinrich Moser

time, incidentally, these clocks

personally paid painstaking attention to purchasing only

had two spring barrels arranged

from the best suppliers and producing at the highest level.

in series.

FABERGÉ TABLE CLOCK WITH MOSER DOUBLE BARREL MOVEMENT

SIGNATORIES OF H. MOSER & C IE DATING FROM 1842

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C O M PA N Y H I S TO RY

Following Heinrich Moser’s death, his second wife Fanny sold the two businesses with the proviso that they would continue to operate under the name «H. Moser & Cie» or «Heinrich Moser & Co.». In spite of this measure, it was eventually no longer possible to assure the uniformity of the company name. The style «Hy Moser & Cie» was evidently also used in Le Locle. By 1979, the watch factory had become a part of the Dixi Mechanique Group as «Hy Moser & Cie». Since then, the only trade in Moser watches has been in the antique market.

MINUTE REPEATER WITH PERPETUAL CALENDAR AND

The Russian operation had already been expropriated without compensation in 1917 in the aftermath of the October Revolution. Around the year 1920, the stateowned «Central Watch Repair Workshop» was formed in Moscow from the remains of the Moser watch businesses, from which a watch production facility of its own would eventually emerge. Moser watches continued to be regarded as synonymous with work of the highest quality for some considerable time afterwards. In 1966, the government of what was the USSR presented one of its highranking military officers with an original Moser pocket watch in 18-carat gold, dating from the period before the expropriation and bearing an engraved dedication for his services to the implantation of communism. This watch is now back in the company museum. GOLD HUNTER POCKET WATCH H. MOSER & C IE , IMPERIAL EAGLE IN COLOURED ENAMEL

BOXES OF MOVEMENT PARTS, CA 1870 TO 1890, L ANGE COLLECTION, SCHAFFHAUSEN

MOON PHASE, CA 1870

21


C O M PA N Y H I S TO RY

Heinrich Moser’s only son had no surviving offspring,

Mechanical movements of the best quality, developed by

and with his death in 1923, the name of Moser also died

the company and used exclusively in its watches, combine

out in this branch of the family.

innovation with maximum customer benefit. Creative and horological traditions ensure that the new watches

Dr. Jürgen Lange and the great-grandson of Heinrich

also have a high degree of brand recognition.

Moser, Roger Nicholas Balsiger, jointly with private investors, founded the Moser Schaff hausen AG watch

The story came full circle with the 200th anniversary of

company in 2002. Dr. Jürgen Lange also registered the

Heinrich Moser’s birth in 2005: The H. Moser & Cie

original H. Moser & C brand again internationally.

brand has returned to Schaffhausen.

ie

The sites occupied by the company today are located, according to Heinrich Moser’s original plan, in Schaffhausen and Neuhausen in the immediate vicinity of the Rhine Falls. To this day, however, the extraordinary Moser watches are also produced in the Swiss Jura. Moser watches of the new era combine horological passion with authentic tradition.

PRESENT-DAY COMPANY BUILDING IN NEUHAUSEN NEAR THE RHINE FALLS

THE FACTORY IN LE LOCLE, BUILT AROUND 1900

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TURN OF THE MILLENNIUM


VISIONS

V ISIONS At the start of this century, the industrial pioneer Hein-

cholas Balsiger proved to be an auspicious one. The two

rich Moser, who is well known in the region above all for

men decided to revive the legendary H. Moser & Cie

his water constructions, came to the notice of the Schaff-

watch brand. The brand was registered internationally,

hausen horologist Dr. Jürgen Lange. He began to research

and Moser Schaff hausen AG was launched as a watch-

Moser’s life and in particular the history of the Moser

making company in a joint venture with other investors.

watchmaking dynasty and its watches. He was especially

A subsequent merger of horological engineering compa-

interested to discover the reason why the H. Moser & C

ie

nies resulted in the formation of Moser Group AG, the

watch brand, highly sought-after in collectors’ circles,

present trade mark owner. Roger Nicholas Balsiger today

could nowadays only be found in the antique market. In

holds the position of Honorary Chairman of the Board

the course of his investigations, Dr. Jürgen Lange came

of Directors, and Dr. Jürgen Lange has operational re-

across Roger Nicholas Balsiger, the great-grandson of

sponsibility for the business.

Heinrich Moser. Balsiger had already made a name for himself as a family historian in numerous publications. The meeting between the horological expert Dr. Jürgen Lange and the internationally active banker Roger Ni-

LINE DR AWING OF THE

MONARD MOVEMENT ON THE ASSEMBLY WORKSTATION

ESCAPEMENT MODULE

MONARD MOVEMENT

ON A SEPAR ATE CARRIER PL ATE

CAL. HMC 343.505

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MOSER PERPE TUAL 1


30

MOSER PERPE T UA L 1 A mechanical watch with a perpetual calendar, of a kind

The «Double Pull Crown» mechanism makes it easier to

never previously seen: the Moser Perpetual 1. Distin-

locate the central position of the crown for setting the

guished with the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, the

date. It effectively prevents the inadvertent adjustment of

most prestigious and coveted award of the Swiss horo-

the hands with the crown in its outermost position.

logical industry. The rapidly and easily interchangeable escapement modThis extraordinary watch of the new generation is eq-

ule provides enhanced ease of servicing. This module was

uipped with the Moser double barrel and possesses a

used for the first time by Moser and assists the watch-

minimum power reserve of seven days when fully wound.

maker to reduce the length of the service times.

The perpetual calendar, coordinated by purely mechani-

Another exclusive and unique feature is the execution of

cal means to the various lengths of the months and the

the pallet fork and the escapement wheel in hardened

leap year, captivates with the unique clarity of its display.

solid gold.

Only the easily legible, big date on the dial and the display of the month by a small hand from the centre of the

A three-part, round designer case in precious metal, 40.8

dial reveal to the connoisseur what an horological mas-

mm in diameter and 11.05 mm thick, with freely formed

terpiece he has before him.

side surfaces, discreetly convex sapphire glass and a seethrough sapphire glass back give the watch its unmistak-

The display also referred to as the «Flash Calendar» pro-

able appearance.

vides for instantaneous changing of the date from the end of the current month to the start of the following month, without allowing any invalid numerals to appear in the date window. This ensures the clear legibility of the date at all times, without any irritating distractions. If ever the date needs to be adjusted, this can be done both forwards and backwards via the crown of the watch. Adjustment is also possible when the watch is actually in the process of changing the date. A unique safety mechanism ensures that none of the delicate parts is damaged if the watch changes to the next day while the wearer is adjusting the date backwards via the crown.

MONTH DISPL AY FROM THE CENTRE USING THE HOUR INDICES


MOSER PERPETUAL 1

31

MOSER PERPETUAL 1 REFERENCE NO. 341.501- 004 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 341.501 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY PERPETUAL FL ASH CALENDAR DISPL AY CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACK WARDS AT ANY TIME VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM HACKING SECOND SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD SILVER-PL ATED DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD FOLDING CL ASP

MOSER PERPETUAL 1 REFERENCE NO. 341.501-002 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 341.501 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY PERPETUAL FL ASH CALENDAR DISPL AY CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACK WARDS AT ANY TIME VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM HACKING SECOND SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD RHODIUM-PL ATED DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN WHITE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD FOLDING CL ASP


MOSER PERPETUAL 1

33

MOSER PERPETUAL 1 REFERENCE NO. 341.501- 001 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 341.501 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY PERPETUAL FL ASH CALENDAR DISPL AY CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACK WARDS AT ANY TIME VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM HACKING SECOND SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD BL ACK DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD FOLDING CL ASP

MOSER PERPETUAL 1 REFERENCE NO. 341.501-006 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 341.501 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY PERPETUAL FL ASH CALENDAR DISPL AY CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACK WARDS AT ANY TIME VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM HACKING SECOND SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD ARDOISE SL ATE DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN PL ATINUM DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP

MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 341.501

WITH SOLID PL ATINUM FOLDING CL ASP


34

MOSER PERPETUAL 1 REFERENCE NO. 341.101- 009 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 341.101 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY PERPETUAL FL ASH CALENDAR DISPL AY CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACKWARDS AT ANY TIME VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM HACKING SECOND SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT WITH STR AUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF SOLID WHITE GOLD FUMÉ DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN PALL ADIUM DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD FOLDING CL ASP


moser perpetual 1

Perpetual Calendar and Flash Calendar The term «perpetual

The date can be adjusted via the patented «Double Pull

calendar» is always ap-

Crown» mechanism, which permits the crown to be set

plied to mechanical

reliably in the right position.

watches when the date, despite the different

The display for the leap year cycle of 4 years is visible on

lengths of the months,

the movement side of the watch through the convex sap-

is always correctly in-

phire glass back. The indicator star for the leap year cycle

dicated automatically.

can be adjusted as required by means of an unobtrusive

THE FL ASH CALENDAR NEVER

Including when Febru-

pin pusher on the outside of the case.

DISPL AYS ANY INVALID DAYS

ary has 29 days every four years. The Moser

Cal. HMC 341.501 movement is a 7-day hand-wound movement with a perpetual calendar, which is adjustable forwards and backwards at any time without restriction via the winding crown in its central position. This perpetual calendar is known as the «Flash Calendar», because it possesses the world’s only date display which changes directly from the last day of the current

IDE VIEW OF THE EXCLUSIVE GOLD CASE OF THE MOSER PERPETUAL 1

month to the first day of the following month without

WITH THE BUT TON FOR ADJUSTING THE LEAP YEAR STAR

displaying invalid days; regardless of whether the month has 30, 31, 28 or 29 days. In spite of its complicated mechanism, the Flash Calendar is only recognizable on the dial by the big date display and by the very restrained design of the central hand for the display of the month with reference to the twelve indices for the hours. LEAP YEAR STAR

35


PERPE TUAL MOON


38

PH A SES OF T HE MOON A special watch with a display of the phases of the moon,

In order to achieve the extraordinarily high display ac-

which deviates by only 1 day after more than 1,027 years.

curacy, the moon disc must be securely attached to the

It shows the phases of the moon as seen in the Northern

hour indicator and run with it continuously. Neverthe-

hemisphere in a large window on the dial. We see various

less, the moon phase can also be corrected using a pin

phases of the moon depending on the relative positions

pusher at 9 o’clock without interfering with the time dis-

of the moon and the sun. The phases are depicted in a

play. A wrap spring clutch – used here for the first time in

unique way on this watch, and can be adjusted, read and

a moon phase gear train – allows the time to be displayed

predicted accurately to the minute. One orbit of the

and the phase of the moon to be corrected without inter-

moon round the earth, which brings the moon back to its

ruption. The pin pusher moves one of the 8 moon phases

original position in relation to the sun, takes on average

forward on each occasion.

29.53059 days. To be precise, 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 2.9 seconds. The Perpetual Moon’s complicated

Additional orientation between day and night is provided

gear train translates this interval so precisely that the re-

by a reduced display with a small central hand rotating

sulting deviation is only 0.23 seconds per day – or one

once every 24 hours. Together with a moon phase table

day after 1,027.3 years.

and the time setting appropriate for a particular phase of the moon, the current moon phase can be set accurately

The moon phase disc shows the currently illuminated

to the minute. The scale on the lower edge of the moon

phase of the moon as the light area in the window aper-

phase display lets you predict to the day when the next

ture. The dark area, on the other hand, represents the

full moon phase will occur. Each mark on the scale rep-

shadow of the earth. Together they make up the astro-

resents a day.

nomical phases of the moon, which all over the world are A three-part, round designer case in precious metal, 40.8

divided into eight quarters.

mm in diameter and 11.05 mm thick, with freely formed side surfaces, discreetly convex sapphire glass and a seethrough sapphire glass back, together with the night-blue fumé dial, give the watch its unmistakable appearance. 1

2

3

1 New moon

5

4

6

7

8

5 Full moon

2 Waxing crescent moon

6 Waning gibbous moon

3 First quarter moon

7 L ast quarter moon

4 Waxing gibbous moon

8 Waning crescent moon


PERPETUAL MOON

39

PERPETUAL MOON REFERENCE NO. 348.901- 013 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 348.901 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE PERPETUAL MOON PHASE DISPL AY MOON PHASE ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACK WARDS AT ANY TIME VIA A PIN PUSHER INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT HACKING SECOND SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING ® WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD BLUE FUMÉ DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD FOLDING CL ASP

PERPETUAL MOON REFERENCE NO. 348.901-015 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 348.901 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE PERPETUAL MOON PHASE DISPL AY MOON PHASE ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACKWARDS AT ANY TIME VIA A PIN PUSHER INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT HACKING SECOND SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING ® WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD BLUE FUMÉ DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN PL ATINUM DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID PL ATINUM FOLDING CL ASP


PERPETUAL MOON

CEN T RE SECONDS

MOSER DOUBL E BA RREL To achieve the longest possible power reserve, the designers have incorporated no fewer than two barrels into the movement. These are arranged in tandem, so that the power reserve is multiplied up to at least seven days compared with only a single barrel. The actual winding springs are made from an unbreakable and corrosion-resistant Nivaflex material with a selflubricating surface.

CENTRE SECONDS HAND AND 24-HOUR INDICATOR ORIGINATING FROM THE CENTRE

In order to keep the wearer informed at all times of the

One of the distinctive features of the Perpetual Moon is

power reserve of the watch, a differential gear is con-

the seconds hand originating from the centre of the mo-

nected to the barrels. This gear ensures that the ring for

tion work. This has the advantage that the individual,

the power reserve display on the movement side moves to

one-second steps can be read more accurately thanks to

the right when the watch is running normally. When the

the great length of the hand.

watch is wound, however, the ring for the power reserve display will move to the left. This means that the actual

The time can be set accurately to the second via the crown

status of both winding springs in the barrels is always in-

with the help of the hacking second.

dicated. Noblesse oblige: both barrels from Moser are supported in screwed gold mounts. The gold mount itself is fi xed in the barrel bridge by three bright-polished steel screws. These screws are not blued, but white, as has always been the case with Moser.

WHEEL TR AIN WITH DOUBLE BARREL

MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 348.901

SCREWED GOLD MOUNT

41


MONARD


44

MON A RD A classic watch with just three hands to indicate the time,

An additional highlight of this exclusive watch is the use

but incorporating a movement that is full of convincing

of an escapement module, a world-first. Its easy inter-

innovations and timeless beauty: the Monard from Moser.

changeability helps to reduce the time required for adjustment when cleaning and servicing the watch.

The fascination of this watch lies in its puristic appearance and the renunciation of all fashionable special effects.

The patented execution of the escapement wheel and pal-

Moser would not be Moser, however, if a hint of the spirit

let fork in hardened solid gold with highly polished work-

of the age, represented here by a case which is 40.8 mm in

ing surfaces to minimize friction is also an expression of

diameter and 10.85 mm thick, had not found a place in the

the constant endeavour by the watchmakers at Moser to

watch.

make something that is already special into something exceptional.

The typically three-dimensional Moser hands, in conjunction with the very clear layout of the dial with a sun pat-

The Cal. HMC 343.505 movement of the Monard was

tern ground finish, ensure excellent legibility of the time.

developed in-house as a hand-wound movement with true

The centre seconds symbolizes both the passage of time

bevel wheels in the winding part and is used exclusively by

and the function of the watch. Setting the watch accu-

Moser. The bevel wheels and the extremely efficient Mo-

rately to the second is possible in conjunction with the

ser tooth system used throughout the wheel train counter-

hacking second when adjusting the hands.

act wear and in so doing ensure a long service life.

The Monard is equipped with the Moser double barrel for

All movements are individually numbered on the barrel

a minimum power reserve of seven days when fully wound

bridge and are recorded in the ledgers at Moser Schaff-

and incorporates a power reserve display that is visible

hausen AG. The seal on the movement, the screwed gold

through the sapphire glass back on the movement side.

mounts and the special Moser ground stripes are an expression of the watchmaker’s art at its most accomplished.


MONARD

MONARD REFERENCE NO. 343.505- 013 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 343.505 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE HACKING SECOND SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD SILVER-PL ATED DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE MONARD REFERENCE NO. 343.505-012 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 343.505 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE HACKING SECOND SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD RHODIUM-PL ATED DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN WHITE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD BUCKLE

45


MONARD

MONARD REFERENCE NO. 343.505- 017 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 343.505 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE HACKING SECOND SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD BL ACK DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE MONARD REFERENCE NO. 343.505-015 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 343.505 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE HACKING SECOND SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD ARDOISE SL ATE DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN PL ATINUM DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK MOVEMENT

ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP

CAL. HMC 343.505

WITH SOLID PL ATINUM BUCKLE

47


48

MONARD REFERENCE NO. 343.505- 018 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 343.505 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE HACKING SECOND SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD LIGHT BROWN DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE MONARD REFERENCE NO. 343.505-019 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 343.505 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE HACKING SECOND SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD DARK BROWN DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN WHITE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD BUCKLE


MONARD

MONARD REFERENCE NO. 343.506-016 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 343.506 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE HACKING SECOND SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT WITH STR AUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF SOLID WHITE GOLD FUMÉ DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN PALL ADIUM DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID PALL ADIUM BUCKLE

49


M O N A R D D AT E


52

MON A RD DAT E Timelessly elegant in appearance with centre seconds and

The interchangeable escapement module typical of Mo-

a big date display: the Monard Date from Moser.

ser also ensures ease of servicing for the Monard Date. It is used by Moser for the first time in the world and helps

The Double Pull Crown mechanism makes it easy to lo-

to reduce the time required for adjustment when cleaning

cate the date adjustment position on the winding crown.

and servicing the watch.

As a result, adjustment of the different lengths of the months is performed with truly effortless ease, without

A further exclusivity is the patented execution of the pal-

inadvertently changing the time.

let fork and escapement wheel in hardened solid gold with polished working surfaces. The ruby pallets of the

A power reserve of at least seven days when fully wound

pallet fork slide on the escapement wheel with low fric-

is assured by the Moser double barrel that is connected in

tion. The watch is subjected to less wear, and its function

series. The actual power reserve of the watch is indicated

is more reliable.

via a differential gear on the movement side and is visible through the large sapphire glass back.

A three-part case made of precious metal, 40.8 mm in diameter and 10.85 mm thick, with a discreetly convex

As in all the other models, the complete wheel train of

sapphire glass encloses this special manufactory move-

the watch is executed with a special Moser tooth system,

ment. Freely formed flanks on the bracelet lugs give the

which has been designed to provide optimal torque trans-

watch an individual, refined appearance. The sapphire

mission and a long service life. This ensures that the

glass see-through back permits an uninterrupted view of

watch continues to show the time reliably, even after run-

the bridges with their characteristic Moser ground stripes.

ning for a long period.

The seal, already familiar to all collectors and featured on the historic watches as a guarantee of authenticity, is also

Screwed gold mounts, into which synthetic ruby jewel bearings are pressed, complete the equipment of this extraordinary watch.

visible through the sapphire glass back.


M O N A R D DAT E

53

MONARD DATE REFERENCE NO. 342.502- 003 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 342.502 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE BIG DATE CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACK WARDS AT ANY TIME VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM HACKING SECOND SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD SILVER-PL ATED DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE

MONARD DATE REFERENCE NO. 342.502-002 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 342.502 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE BIG DATE CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACK WARDS AT ANY TIME VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM HACKING SECOND SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD RHODIUM-PL ATED DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN WHITE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD BUCKLE


M O N A R D DAT E

55

MONARD DATE REFERENCE NO. 342.502- 001 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 342.502 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE BIG DATE CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACK WARDS AT ANY TIME VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM HACKING SECOND SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD BL ACK DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE

MONARD DATE REFERENCE NO. 342.502-005 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 342.502 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE BIG DATE CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACK WARDS AT ANY TIME VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM HACKING SECOND SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD ARDOISE SL ATE DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN PL ATINUM

DIAL OF THE CAL. HMC 342.502

DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK

MOVEMENT WITH THE T WO DATE RINGS

ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP

LYING ONE ON TOP OF THE OTHER

WITH SOLID PL ATINUM BUCKLE


56

MONARD DATE REFERENCE NO. 342.502- 006 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 342.502 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE BIG DATE CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACK WARDS AT ANY TIME VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM HACKING SECOND SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD LIGHT BROWN DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE

MONARD DATE REFERENCE NO. 342.502-007 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 342.502 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE BIG DATE CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACK WARDS AT ANY TIME VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM HACKING SECOND SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD DARK BROWN DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN WHITE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD BUCKLE


monard date

T HE Big date FROM MOSER The Monard Date capti-

two individual digits, as in a big date display, a leading

vates with its elegance and

zero or a blank panel would always be visible for single-

with the big date change

digit numbers. This is one reason why Moser does not

displayed at 6 o’clock in

favour this solution.

the date window. As with the Moser Perpetual 1, this

The date change of the Monard Date jumps forward by

is in the form of two rings

one day within one second at midnight every day and can

lying one on top of the

be adjusted as required by hand via the crown depending

other. These are the upper

on the length of the month, regardless of whether the

THE BIG

ring with the numbers 1 to 15 and beneath

MOSER DATE

it the ring with the numbers 16 to 31. This

movement itself is changing at the same time.

enables the use of significantly larger num-

The ability to adjust the date backwards at any time is

bers than if 31 positions were to be present

also a matter of course for Moser. An intricately designed

on only a single ring.

clutch separates the movement from the adjustment mechanism and in so doing ensures that nothing unfore-

However, a further advantage is associated

seen occurs.

with this special design with two rings: Regardless of the size of each individual digit, it is always centred in the middle of the window. This also applies to the single digits 1 to 9. If the date were to consist of

DATE ADJUSTMENT VIA THE CROWN

57


MERIDIAN


60

MERIDI A N A very elegant watch with automatic movement and alter-

The required number of hours forward or back can be set

nating 12- and 24-hour display. The Moser Meridian com-

and the coloured hand shows the corresponding time.

bines well-known and popular complications with a spe-

Home time can still be read as usual. The display in the

cial innovation: a display which changes automatically

window which changes at noon shows whether it is morn-

from 12 to 24 hours on an ordinary, familiar dial.

ing or afternoon in the home time zone.

The prominent window at the top of the dial displays a 12

Thus in far-flung parts of the world it is always possible to

in the morning of home time. At midday, this display

check home time easily in the usual way, without having

changes within the space of a second to read 24. Within

to think about whether it is AM or PM there.

the home region, a different-coloured and somewhat smaller hand of a different time zone (destination time)

With a power reserve of 72 hours, i.e. three full days, the

is simply hidden under the normal hour hand and so

Moser automatic movement, with its characteristic off-

moves along with it unseen.

centre pocket-watch style seconds display, is one of the longest-running models available. The solid gold rotor

To display the time of another time zone (destination

transfers its energy to a highly efficient pawl winding sys-

time), the coloured hour hand which is normally hidden

tem, whose large barrel ensures the very long power re-

is adjusted in steps of one hour by means of the crown in

serve. The accuracy of this extraordinary watch is assured

its central position. The unique Moser Double Pull

by Moser’s characteristic interchangeable escapement.

Crown system allows the central position to be easily lo-

And, naturally, it also comes with a Straumann Hair-

cated without the watch being inadvertently stopped or

spring ÂŽ, produced in-house, Breguet overcoil and pallet

the current time being changed.

fork and escapement wheel in hardened solid gold.


MERIDIAN

MERIDIAN REFERENCE NO. 346.121- 023 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 346.121 SECOND TIME zONE DISPL AY 12- AND 24-HOUR DISPL AY AUTOMATIC MOVEMENT POWER RESERVE OF AT LEAST 3 DAYS WHEN FULLY WOUND MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM HACKING SECOND MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD SILVER-PL ATED DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD FOLDING CL ASP

MERIDIAN REFERENCE NO. 346.121-024 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 346.121 SECOND TIME zONE DISPL AY 12- AND 24-HOUR DISPL AY AUTOMATIC MOVEMENT POWER RESERVE OF AT LEAST 3 DAYS WHEN FULLY WOUND MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM HACKING SECOND MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD ARDOISE SL ATE DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN PL ATINUM DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID PL ATINUM FOLDING CL ASP

61


M eridian

A LT ERN AT IN G 12- A ND 24- HOUR DISPL AY The Moser Meridian uses a completely new system of al-

without needing to change the arrangement on the dial.

ternating display to indicate morning (AM) and afternoon

And, as with any seemingly simple solution, behind the

(PM): the 24-hour slide. This is a part of a sophisticated

dial lies a highly sophisticated and complex example of

gear train which allows itself to move back and forth, se-

horological craftsmanship.

cured by the means of a Maltese cross. The slide contains only the numbers 1, 2 and 4. The digit 2 in the centre of

As you would expect from Moser, the change of display

the slide is used to display both 12 and 24.

from 12 to 24 at noon takes only a second to complete. The watchmakers have achieved this by using a spring

This is achieved by either the digit 4 being hidden to the

which gains tension over a period of about eight hours

right of the window in the dial, giving the representation

without affecting the workings of the rest of the move-

of ‘12’, or the slide moving to the left, hiding the 1 under

ment. At noon, the power of the spring is released at once

the dial, resulting in ‘24’ showing in the upper window

to achieve the rapid movement of the slide.

of the dial in the afternoon. An ingeniously simple solution, showing the 12 hours of morning and the same number of hours in the afternoon,

MECHANISM FOR THE 12- AND 24-HOUR DISPL AY

DIAL Cal. HMC 346.121

63


M eridian

AU TOM AT IC PAW L W INDING SYS T EM With the appearance of the Meridian model, devotees of

This has the great benefit that, when worn, the watch

the H. Moser & Cie brand will no longer need to pose the

continuously gains more power than it uses. This com-

question they occasionally ask: «When will we see the

bined with the extra-large barrel means that the Meridi-

first watch with automatic winding?»

an’s energy reserve when fully wound is guaranteed to be 72 hours, or three full days. If it is worn for about eight

It took the master watchmakers at Moser five years before

hours a day after having stopped, it will usually regain

they were ready to give the signal that a completely new

fully-wound status within four days of wearing.

watch movement was fit to be launched on the market. Exhaustive tests and in-depth research into principles,

The high efficiency of the Moser pawl winding system is

materials and construction details were undertaken be-

partly attributable to the fact that it is wound up by move-

fore the new movement could be unveiled to the public.

ment of the rotor in either direction. One of the two pawls turns the pawl wheel on pull, the other on push. A

As always, the masterly automatic movement, developed

torque brace is provided to ensure that the pawl does not

especially for this extraordinary watch, reveals its special

buckle or break under the resultant tension. The materials

features only on close examination. The see-through sap-

of the pawls and the pawl wheel are matched and produce

phire glass back of the watch allows you to marvel at the

minimum wear.

large, solid gold rotor as it goes about its winding work. The energy from its movement is transferred to the barrel

These technical specifications underline the exclusive so-

by means of a pawl winding system which is consistently

phistication of another elegant Moser watch, which, like

effective regardless of its direction of turn. A large lubri-

all the watches from H. Moser & Cie, does not rely on

cant-free ball bearing with maintenance-free ceramic

mass-produced movement components but combines the

bearing balls and cantilever-mounted ratchet wheel en-

finest materials with the highest levels of intricacy and

sure very low friction.

functionality. Only a steel bearing ball from a standard ball bearing and the ceramic bearing balls for the rotor are mass-produced.

MOVEMENT

WINDING MECHANISM

Cal. HMC 346.121

PAWLS AND PAWL WHEEL

65


M AY U


68

M AY U A fine, elegant watch with a certain hint of understate-

Applied, facetted and diamond-polished indices, but also

ment: the Mayu from Moser.

the dial with its sun pattern ground finish, play with the reflected sunlight.

The name of the watch is a tribute to Heinrich Moser’s first wife, Charlotte Mayu. The family seat, Charlotten-

The three-dimensional hands, which are used only in

fels manor near Schaffhausen, was also named after her.

Moser watches, are optimally adapted to the dimensions of the watch in both length and form.

A timepiece with a decidedly elegant design: As a mechanical watch with a height of only 9.3 mm and with a

In this watch, too, the interchangeable escapement mod-

diameter of 38.8 mm, it is not too large for contemporary

ule used for the first time by Moser offers high exclusivi-

tastes. The watchmakers at Moser have nevertheless suc-

ty. It guarantees that the watch will retain its value and

ceeded in accommodating a large barrel in this volume.

helps to reduce the time taken for the cleaning and servic-

The result is a power reserve of 80 hours, which ensures

ing required by all mechanical watches about every five

that the watch will continue to run for at least three days

years. Another world-first is the execution of the pallet

even without winding.

fork and escapement wheel in hardened solid gold with functionally optimized surfaces to minimize friction and

The harmonious design of the dial is particularly en-

the associated wear.

hanced by the rare, large pocket watch seconds hand. Drawing on pocket watches for its inspiration, the lower

The Mayu has a three-part case made of precious metal

end of this subsidiary seconds display sits as close as pos-

with a discreetly convex sapphire glass and a see-through

sible to the minute ring. This position can only be

sapphire glass back.

achieved with a large movement designed specifically for the purpose without a movement retaining ring. The Mayu’s Cal. 321.503 movement thus exhibits an imposing diameter of 32 mm. This corresponds quite closely to 14 lines in horological terms.


M AY U

MAYU REFERENCE NO. 321.503- 005 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE HACKING SECOND MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD SILVER-PL ATED DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE

MAYU REFERENCE NO. 321.503-012 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE HACKING SECOND MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD RHODIUM-PL ATED DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN WHITE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD BUCKLE

69


M AY U

MAYU REFERENCE NO. 321.503- 007 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE HACKING SECOND MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD BL ACK DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE

MAYU REFERENCE NO. 321.503-003 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE HACKING SECOND MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD ARDOISE SL ATE DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN PL ATINUM DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK MOVEMENT

ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP

CAL. HMC 321.503

WITH SOLID PL ATINUM BUCKLE

71


72

MAYU REFERENCE NO. 321.503- 015 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE HACKING SECOND MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速

REFERENCE NO. 321.503-B15

WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL

BEzEL SET WITH 64 BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS

PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD LIGHT BROWN DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE

MAYU REFERENCE NO. 321.503-016 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE HACKING SECOND MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD REFERENCE NO. 321.503-B16 BEzEL SET WITH 64 BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS

DARK BROWN DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN WHITE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD BUCKLE


M AY U

MAYU REFERENCE NO. 321.503-B13 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE HACKING SECOND MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD TAHITIAN MOTHER-OF-PEARL DIAL THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD 84 TOP WESSELTON BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE MAYU REFERENCE NO. 321.503-B14 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE HACKING SECOND MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD LIGHT ROSE-COLOUR MOTHER-OF-PEARL DIAL THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN WHITE GOLD 84 TOP WESSELTON BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD BUCKLE

73


74

MAYU REFERENCE NO. 321.503-B05 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE HACKING SECOND MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING ® WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD SILVER-PL ATED DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD 64 TOP WESSELTON BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE

MAYU REFERENCE NO. 325.503-010 MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 325.503 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE HACKING SECOND MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT WITH STR AUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF SOLID WHITE GOLD FUMÉ DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN PALL ADIUM DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID PALL ADIUM BUCKLE


mayu

W HEEL S, PINIONS A ND L E V ERS

H acking second

The wheel train of the Mayu watches relies on centuries-

By pulling it out into the second position, the winding

old proven principles for its basic design. A couple of de-

crown of the Mayu is also used to adjust the hands. To

tails: an eight-day wheel is included between the barrel

enable this to be done accurately to the second, the watch

and the great wheel, because the great wheel rotates under

also has a hacking second.

the barrel. The third wheel and the fourth wheel are arranged beneath a common bridge, which permits close

As the crown is pulled out, a stop spring is positioned

tolerances in the interests of high efficiency.

against the weight compensation screws of the balance and holds it

The staff of the fourth wheel carries the seconds hand of

securely. This causes the watch to

the subsidiary seconds display on the dial side. At the

stop, although the balance spring

same time, the fourth wheel also acts as the mechanical

remains under tension. When the

interface with the escapement module.

crown is pushed back into the normal position, the stop spring releases the balance once more and the watch starts to run immediately. To show the power reserve available at any time, Mayu watches with a see-through back have a display on the movement

POWER RESERVE

side. This indicates the fully-wound state in the «UP»

DISPL AY

position and, after three days, it will have covered about two-thirds of the distance in the «DOWN» direction.

MAYU WHEEL TR AIN

75


HENRY DOUBLE HAIRSPRING


78

HENRY DOUBL E H A IRSPRIN G An exceptional tonneau watch with a Straumann Double

A new escapement and a superlative horological achieve-

Hairspring: the Henry Double Hairspring from Moser

ment, which naturally does not sacrifice the interchange-

with an exclusive rectangular-shaped movement.

ability that is typical of Moser escapements.

An exemplary innovation for the oscillating system, the

Set in a well-proportioned case measuring 44.1 mm long

most complicated component of the mechanical watch,

by 38.6 mm wide by 10.4 mm high, this latest masterpiece

gives this movement its particular charisma. The legen-

of the watchmaker’s art from Moser has a power reserve

dary elegance of a Moser watch is combined here with a

of at least four days when fully wound. Exclusive and

unique escapement designed to exclude gravitational er-

unique to Moser, the execution of the pallet fork and the

ror. Two Straumann balance springs manufactured as a

escapement wheel in hardened, solid white gold is also

matched pair, which oscillate against one another and by

retained as a distinguishing feature of the Moser escape-

so doing prevent the gravitational error of an escapement

ment with Straumann Double Hairspring.

from occurring in the first place. Self-compensating and antimagnetic, of course. This system requires mastery of the manufacture of the balance springs – from the melting of the alloy to the finished spring – with in-house technology and precision. This prerequisite is met within Moser Group AG with utmost dedication.


HENRY DOUBLE HAIRSPRING

79

HENRY DOUBLE HAIRSPRING REFERENCE NO. 324.607- 004 MOSER RECTANGUL AR-SHAPED MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 324.607 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS L ARGE-VOLUME BARREL, MIN. 4-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE HACKING SECOND MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT WITH STR AUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF SOLID WHITE GOLD SILVER-PL ATED DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, TONNEAU CASE IN ROSE GOLD SAPPHIRE GL ASS, DISCREETLY CONVEX IN 2 DIRECTIONS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE

HENRY DOUBLE HAIRSPRING REFERENCE NO. 324.607-002 MOSER RECTANGUL AR-SHAPED MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 324.607 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS L ARGE-VOLUME BARREL, MIN. 4-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE HACKING SECOND MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT WITH STR AUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF SOLID WHITE GOLD RHODIUM-PL ATED DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, TONNEAU CASE IN WHITE GOLD SAPPHIRE GL ASS, DISCREETLY CONVEX IN 2 DIRECTIONS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD BUCKLE


HENRY DOUBLE HAIRSPRING

81

HENRY DOUBLE HAIRSPRING REFERENCE NO. 324.607- 005 MOSER RECTANGUL AR-SHAPED MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 324.607 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS L ARGE-VOLUME BARREL, MIN. 4-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE HACKING SECOND MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT WITH STR AUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF SOLID WHITE GOLD BL ACK DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, TONNEAU CASE IN RED GOLD SAPPHIRE GL ASS, DISCREETLY CONVEX IN 2 DIRECTIONS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID RED GOLD BUCKLE

HENRY DOUBLE HAIRSPRING REFERENCE NO. 324.607-006 MOSER RECTANGUL AR-SHAPED MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 324.607 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS L ARGE-VOLUME BARREL, MIN. 4-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE HACKING SECOND MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT WITH STR AUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF SOLID WHITE GOLD ARDOISE SL ATE DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, TONNEAU CASE IN PL ATINUM SAPPHIRE GL ASS, DISCREETLY CONVEX IN 2 DIRECTIONS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK MOVEMENT

ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP

CAL. HMC 324.607

WITH SOLID PL ATINUM BUCKLE


82

HENRY DOUBLE HAIRSPRING REFERENCE NO. 324.607- 003 MOSER RECTANGUL AR-SHAPED MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 324.607 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS L ARGE-VOLUME BARREL, MIN. 4-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE HACKING SECOND MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT WITH STR AUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF SOLID WHITE GOLD FUMÉ DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, TONNEAU CASE IN PALL ADIUM SAPPHIRE GL ASS, DISCREETLY CONVEX IN 2 DIRECTIONS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID PALL ADIUM BUCKLE


HENRY DOUBLE HAIRSPRING

S traumann Double H airspring Using an escapement with Straumann Double Hair-

Clearly, producing such a complicated escapement mod-

spring, which is installed in all of the Henry models,

ule requires mastery of the whole balance spring produc-

Moser has succeeded in preventing the gravitational error

tion process – from melting the material right through to

before it even occurs. The result is more stable accuracy

completing the finished spring. Together with its associ-

in all positions.

ate company Precision Engineering AG, H. Moser & Cie developed the Straumann Hairspring ® based on the for-

In this escapement, two balance springs manufactured as

mula used by the inventor of Nivarox, Prof. Dr. h.c. Re-

a matched pair are arranged so that they oscillate against

inhard Straumann. This ensures the necessary homoge-

one another. This causes the centres of gravity of the two

neity of the material’s mechanical properties.

springs to move outwards and inwards on opposing symmetrical paths as they oscillate. The cumulative centre of

Furthermore, the springs are manufactured so consist-

gravity of the two springs thus remains at the centre of the

ently that they are even able to ensure uniform compen-

arbor at all times, and as such has no negative influence

sation for any elasticity in the presence of temperature

on the accuracy of the watch.

fluctuations. This ensures that the centre of gravity does not wander from the centre of the arbor even when the temperature changes.

SCREW BAL ANCE WITH

ESCAPEMENT MODULE WITH

STR AUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING

STR AUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING

83


LIMITED COLLECTORS EDITIONS


86

T HE L IMI T ED COL L ECTORS EDI T IONS FROM MOSER Limited editions of individual watches symbolize a spe-

The watchmakers at Moser were determined to create a

cial event, particular techniques or unusual horological

limited edition before mastery of this technique of coat-

solutions. This is also true of Moser.

ing metal with vitreous enamel in a furnace is lost.

It is now more than five years since the Moser Perpetual 1,

The Zarenadler (Imperial eagle) Mayu came about for a

set with 76 brilliant-cut diamonds, was introduced to mark

different reason: On the one hand there was a desire to

the international relaunch of the H. Moser & C brand in

refer to the roots of the company in Imperial Russia, and

2005. With its specially formed bezel, it lends itself per-

on the other hand Moser’s master engravers wished to

fectly to mounting with selected diamonds. This watch,

demonstrate that they were still able to carry out the ex-

incidentally, also saw the introduction of the now legen-

quisite art of relief engraving in a masterly manner. For

dary «Flash Calendar».

once, the sapphire glass back of a Mayu model was re-

ie

placed by a solid gold case back, which depicts the twoWith the Moser Perpetual 1 Golden Edition, the Moser

headed Russian Imperial eagle set with brilliant-cut dia-

master watchmakers have shown in 2011 what they are

monds.

capable of achieving. A movement almost entirely in 18-carat gold with the world’s only fully functional dia-

The yellow gold Mayu with ivory-coloured lacquered dial

mond end stones in a shock-absorber. Dial, hands, pallet

is also a special edition. Here the authentic, subsidiary

fork and escapement wheel – all in solid gold. A truly

pocket watch seconds hand of all Mayu and Perpetual

superlative watch.

models is brought to the fore. It is positioned next to the minute ring, as in the historic examples of pocket watch-

Other collectors editions include the Monard and Mayu

es. This is indeed a rarity, because it calls for a specially

models with genuine «grand feu» enamel dials. This is an

designed movement without the customary movement

enamelling skill that appeared almost to have died out.

retaining ring.


LIMITED EDITIONS

87

MOSER PERPETUAL 1 REFERENCE NO. 341.501-B04 LIMITED EDITION OF 200 PIECES MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 341.501 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY PERPETUAL FL ASH CALENDAR DISPL AY CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACK WARDS AT ANY TIME VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM HACKING SECOND SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING ® WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD SILVER-PL ATED DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD SET WITH 76 TOP WESSELTON BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD FOLDING CL ASP

MOSER PERPETUAL 1 GOLDEN EDITION REFERENCE NO. 341.101-008 LIMITED EDITION OF 100 PIECES MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 341.101 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY PERPETUAL FL ASH CALENDAR DISPL AY CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACK WARDS AT ANY TIME VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM HACKING SECOND SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT WITH STR AUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING PL ATE AND BRIDGES IN 18-CAR AT ROSE GOLD 2 FUNCTIONAL DIAMOND END STONES IN THE INCABLOC SHOCK-ABSORBER WHITE SAPPHIRE JEWEL BEARING UNDER THE END STONE PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD SOLID GOLD FUMÉ DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH HANDS AND INDICES IN 18-CAR AT ROSE GOLD THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD FOLDING CL ASP


88

MONARD REFERENCE NO. 343.505-L11 LIMITED EDITION OF 200 PIECES MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 343.505 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE HACKING SECOND SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD BL ACK ENAMEL DIAL THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE SOLD OUT

MAYU REFERENCE NO. 321.503-L02 LIMITED EDITION OF 50 PIECES MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE HACKING SECOND MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD WHITE ENAMEL DIAL THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN WHITE GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD BUCKLE SOLD OUT


LIMITED EDITIONS

MAYU REFERENCE NO. 322.504-LB04 LIMITED EDITION OF 50 PIECES MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 322.504 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS HACKING SECOND MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL

HAND-ENGR AVED T WO-HEADED IMPERIAL EAGLE

PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD BL ACK DIAL WITH SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD SET WITH 64 TOP WESSELTON BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS HAND-ENGR AVED SOLID GOLD CASE BACK WITH 25 TOP WESSELTON BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE

MAYU REFERENCE NO. 321.503-004 LIMITED EDITION OF 50 PIECES MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503 HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TR AIN AND PINIONS POWER RESERVE DISPL AY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE HACKING SECOND MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT ORIGINAL STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING 速 WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF HARDENED SOLID GOLD IVORY-COLOURED L ACQUERED DIAL THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN YELLOW GOLD DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GL ASS SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GL ASS BACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STR AP WITH SOLID YELLOW GOLD BUCKLE SOLD OUT

89


T E C H N I C A L D E TA I L S


92

T E A M SPIRI T A ND SPECI A L IS TS Heinrich Moser’s visionary views are recorded in many of

H. Moser & Cie has no aspirations to be a manufactory.

his letters. They also contain principles which remain

Nevertheless, a great deal of horological know-how and

valid to this day.

technological expertise exist in the Moser Group, so that the Moser movements can be described justifiably as pure

If you want to build the best watches, you must go to the

manufactory movements. The watches themselves also

best suppliers for the individual components. Only these

merit manufactory status, because they are assembled by

specialist, whose knowledge has been passed down

hand.

through the generations, are actually in a position to transform their craftsmanship into real watch parts. Only

In view of the extreme dimensions and tolerances, the

by working with them, in their environment, with their

individual parts of the watches are produced by machine

networks and their particular strengths, are such peak

in most cases. Concessions would otherwise have to be

performances still achievable.

made in the quality of the movements. This would not be compatible with the present-day opportunities, and not at

That is certainly one of the reasons why

all with the ambitions of H. Moser & Cie.

Heinrich Moser’s watchmaking business was already established in Le Locle in 1828, and why most components are still made in the Swiss Jura. GREAT WHEEL

But there is also a machine room at the headquarters in

WITH STAFF AND PINION

Neuhausen near the Rhine Falls, home to the top specialists in the production of the finest and most accurate precision components. Technologies, tools, mechanisms and processes are developed here that stretch technology to its very limits. This expertise and these processes are then passed on to the traditional supplier for incorporation into its series production. It is only in this way and in close cooperation with these specialists that H. Moser & Cie is today in a position to accomplish true innovations and world-firsts for the benefit of its

THE UNIQUE WINDING GEAR TR AIN

customers all around the globe.

FROM MOSER WITH CONICAL WHEELS


T E C H N I C A L D E TA I L S

D OUBL E PUL L CROW N ( DPC ) MECH A NISM

0

1

2

Another world-first can be

The DPC mechanism patented by Moser can be found in

found exclusively in the

all Moser watches with additional displays and ensures

Moser watches of the new

that merely the position for date adjustment, for instance,

era:

Pull

is reached by pulling out the crown once until it stops.

Crown (DPC) mechanism.

Only by then releasing the crown briefly, if necessary by

the

Double

giving it a light tap, and pulling it out once more until it DPC denotes the double

stops is the crown able to move to the position for adjust-

pull on the crown re-

ing the hands.

quired in this mechanism in order to move from

Errors when adjusting the date or additional displays are

THREE POSITIONS OF

winding to adjustment of

now a thing of the past.

THE WINDING CROWN

the hands. The master watchmakers at Moser have perfected even The intermediate position

the smallest details of a mechanical watch.

for adjustment of the date is relatively difficult to ÂŤsenseÂť with the customary detent function in all watches without DPC. As often as not, the crown is pulled out too far, and the time is then adjusted unintentionally instead of the date.

DOUBLE PULL CROWn MECHANISM

93


T E C H N I C A L D E TA I L S

T HE S T R AUM A NN H A IRSPRIN G ® The consistent oscillation of the balance spring, in conjunction with the balance, is solely responsible for the precise running and the accuracy of the watch. The Moser

CRUCIBLE WITH PE3000 NIVAROX MELT

development engineers have accordingly devoted a high degree of attention to it. Working closely with its associate company, Precision Engineering AG, and drawing on the know-how of Institut Straumann AG, the original formula and technology of the legendary Nivarox material have been reviewed. It was Prof. Dr. h.c. Reinhard Straumann – the grandfather of our present Board member, Dr. h.c. Thomas Straumann – who in 1931 developed a fracture-resistant, self-compensating, corrosion-free and antimagnetic alloy consisting of seven elements,

HAMMERING THE GLOWING NIVAROX MATERIAL

and applied for a patent for this invention. The patent describes the first concrete formulation, which exhibits the desired characteristics and also finds an application in watches as a balance spring material. It is still in use today, in slightly modified form, in practically all high-quality, volume-produced movements with a mechanical oscillating system. A few years ago, Precision Engineering AG, working jointly with H. Moser & Cie, installed its own, complete production line, from melting of the alloy to the finished escapement system.

THE PATENTS FOR THE NIVAROX MATERIAL OF REINHARD STR AUMANN

SAWING THE INGOT

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96

ULTR A HIGH PRECISION ROLLING OF THE PE3000 NIVAROX MATERIAL

All escapement modules from H. Moser & Cie are equipped exclusively with an in-house Straumann Hairspring ®. In tribute to its inventor, the brand name Straumann Hairspring ® now benefits from international protection. The precise combination of all the highest-grade materials in the smelting charge and the processing of the raw ingot with a diameter of about 20 cm and a weight of 80 kg into a wire with a diameter which is thinner than a

WINDING THE 4 STRIPS INTO A SPRING ASSEMBLY

human hair demand technological expertise acquired over the generations and the very best tools. Yet only the final homogeneity of the wire and its ultra-precise rolling from a round shape into a flat strip can provide the conditions necessary for balance springs that are sufficiently accurate for use in chronometers, self-compensating and antimagnetic. The wire for the Straumann Hairspring ® springs is thus flat-rolled to an astounding accuracy of 0.1 thousandth of a millimetre. And, once again, it is the skilled craftsmen and -women who manage to thread four of these unbelievably thin

®

wires on to a tool, wind them into a spring assembly, treat

WITH BREGUET OVERCOIL

it in a high-vacuum furnace, and then separate it again to

FINISHED STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING

produce the finished balance springs. The régleuses at H. Moser & Cie then rivet the metal ring on its inside, bend the Breguet overcoil by hand with amazing precision, secure the outer end, and thus round off their contribution to the many hundreds of processes that go into making a balance spring.


T E C H N I C A L D E TA I L S

IN T ERCH A N GE A BL E ESCA PEMEN T MODUL E The watchmakers at Moser have concerned themselves

The complete balance is a traditional screw balance with

from the outset with innovation combined with high cus-

weight compensation screws made of white gold and a

tomer benefit. In the watches of the new era, this finds

driver ellipse made of synthetic ruby; this is an aesthetic

expression in one component in particular: the escape-

work of art of a special kind in its own right. The materi-

ment module that is interchangeable as a unit. This was

als used in the balance and the balance spring are

developed with a view to reducing the time taken for ad-

matched to one another in such a way that fluctuations

justment when cleaning and servicing the watch about

in temperature have no noticeable effects on the accuracy

every 5 years. The watchmaker concerned removes the

of the watch.

complete module, cleans and oils the rest of the movement and installs an already cleaned and adjusted mod-

Since the balance has a relative-

ule. Job done.

ly high mass, it is protected from shocks. The balance staff

At the same time, the escapement module itself is opti-

has high-precision, roller-bur-

mized in line with the latest knowledge. There are no

nished conical pivots and is car-

longer any temperamental indices, for example. Adjust-

ried in a bearing with the capac-

ment of the oscillating frequency of the balance is per-

ity to yield in the presence of

formed via the cross-

shocks and thus prevents frac-

slotted steel screws

ture of the pivots, which are

around the periphery

only 0.08 mm thick.

BALANCE WITH PLATE, ELLIPSE AND STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING速

of the balance. To prevent these from moving of their own accord due to vibrations, a slot has been made through the screw thread. As a result, the screw is constantly under spring pressure and is secured in this way. Just how difficult this is to manufacture will be appreciated when the diameter of the screw holes is taken into consideration: a tiny 0.35 mm. SPRING SLOT FOR THE ADJUSTING SCREW

INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT MODULE

97


98

Given all this horological love for detail, it is no surprise to find that the balance spring is formed with a Breguet overcoil. This overcoil is the only one to provide reliable assurance that the centre of gravity of the spiral spring will not be displaced as it oscillates, thereby creating unequal oscillation periods in different positions. The pallet fork and escapement wheel are manufactured by Moser from gold using a patented process. This offers the particular advantage that the vertical working surfaces are generally executed with a glass-smooth finish. THE DR AGON LEVER FOR ADJUSTING THE ESCAPEMENT TR AVEL

A further important consideration for the accuracy is the facility to adjust the pallet fork very precisely in conjunction with the escapement wheel. For this purpose, too, the people at Moser have come up with something new:

The friction between the synthetic ruby escape pallets and the club teeth of the escapement wheel is reduced to a minimum in this way. Moser repeatedly used gold wheels in its movements in the past.

the dragon lever. This stop lever is supported in two eccentric screws, by means of which the stop surfaces can be positioned very precisely in relation to the pallet fork. Since the pallet fork is made of gold and the dragon lever is made of brass, any vibrations in conjunction with stopping are well damped. The eccentrics are only accessible from below via a slot, so they are no longer capable of adjustment once the escapement module has been installed in the movement.

GOLD ESCAPEMENT WHEEL WITH STEEL PINION


T E C H N I C A L D E TA I L S

T HE CR A F TSM A N’S A RT The watchmaker’s art manifests itself not only through technically accomplished solutions but also through the individual features of the component parts that are worked out with loving attention to detail. One example of this is the sun pattern ground finish on the plates of all Moser movements that is only visible to the watchmaker. This is only revealed when the watch is completely dismantled into its individual parts on the watchmaker’s workbench. A large number of Moser watches of the new era actually feature a see-through sapphire glass back, through which the beauty of the movements can be appreciated from the outside. Bevelled and polished edges are visible in this way, and the jewels sparkle in the light.

MOVEMENT SIDE OF THE MOSER PERPETUAL 1 GOLDEN EDITION

DIAL SIDE

WITH SOLID GOLD BRIDGES,

CAL. HMC 343.505

HAND-BEVELLED EDGES

CR AFTSMANSHIP

AND SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS

IN ITS FINEST FORM

99


100

Another entirely traditional Moser feature is the arrangement of the third wheel and the fourth wheel together beneath the same train-wheel bridge, which exhibits the typical convex form around the jewel bearings. Also present on THE MOSER SEAL ON THE MONARD

the train-wheel bridge is the Hein-

TR AIN-WHEEL BRIDGE

rich Moser seal in gold, which guarantees authenticity both in the historic watches and in the watches of the new era.

The dual ground stripes on the bridges that are so typical of Moser and the fine gold engravings are as obvious as

The exquisite relief engravings on

the tireless oscillations of the screw balance.

the solid gold case backs of our limited collectors editions are testimony to the artistry of individual watchmakers at H. Moser & Cie, masters of a craft which is now only rarely seen due to its sheer complexity.

MOSER GROUND STRIPES AND GOLD ENGR AVINGS

PERFECTION IN RELIEF ENGR AVING ON THE SOLID GOLD CASE BACKS


T E C H N I C A L D E TA I L S

FINISHIN G The finishing process only uses traditional craft methods. No machine can produce a truly beautifully polished chamfered edge on the bridges and plates. Manual work is just as necessary here as it is for the polished finish and the brushed surfaces of the case or the sun pattern ground finish under the barrel. The typical Moser ground stripes on the plates are also created using purely manual work. The Swiss watchmaker’s art in its finest form in the watches and movements of H. Moser & Cie is the result of this unremitting quest for perfection.

ONE OF THE T WO DIAMOND END STONES IN THE MOSER PERPETUAL 1 GOLDEN EDITION

SUN PAT TERN GROUND FINISH UNDER THE BARREL

101


TIMELINE

T IMEL INE 1730 Johannes Moser, grandfather of Heinrich Moser, is born in Schaffhausen. After an apprenticeship as a watchmaker, he assumes the hereditary and honorary position of town watchmaker. He later becomes a Cantonal Councillor. 1760 Erhard Moser, father of Heinrich Moser, is born in Schaffhausen. He succeeds his father in the position of town watchmaker and is himself a member of the Cantonal Council. 1805 Johann Heinrich Moser is born on 12 December. He learns the traditional watchmaker’s craft from his father between 1820 and 1824. 1824 Heinrich Moser continues his training in Le Locle, Switzerland, in the master watchmakers’ workshops in the town. He rapidly gains respect as a skilled watchmaker, and he starts a small business to supply spare parts. It only takes Moser about eighteen months to develop a reputation as an outstandingly talented specialist, and he receives offers of work from Italy and Paris. 1826 Moser works on his own account for the first time by building clocks into cases and pieces of furniture. 1827 The prospects of good business draw Moser to St. Petersburg in Russia. After an adventurous journey by horsedrawn coach and by sea, he nearly runs out of money. He starts work as a watchmaker in the local workshops. 1828 Moser opens the trading company H. Moser & Co. in St. Petersburg. This marks the hour of inception of what would eventually grown into such a successful brand. Moser’s business flourishes, which can certainly be attributed to the fact that the watches sold by him are supplied only in high quality. Not a single watch is allowed to pass over the shop counter until it has been inspected personally by him or by one of his representatives. 1829 In order to maintain this claim to superior quality, Moser establishes a watch factory in Le Locle to produce watches exclusively for his businesses in Europe and Russia. 1848 Moser, by now a wealthy merchant and watch manufacturer, decides to return to Schaffhausen with his family. From this point on, he sees his true life’s work as the transformation of Schaffhausen, a very quiet town in those days, into a lively and attractive industrial location. At the same time, he builds the magnificent Charlottenfels country manor house for his family.

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104

1851

Moser completes the construction of a canal on the Rhine, which supplies the water to drive a turbine generating about 80 hp.

1853 In a joint venture with other Schaffhausen personalities, Moser establishes Schweizerische Waggonfabrik bei Schaffhausen (Swiss Wagonworks at Schaffhausen), which later changes its name to Schweizerische Industriegesellschaft (SIG) Neuhausen (Swiss Industrial Company Neuhausen). Moser is a co-founder of the Schaffhausen–Winterthur railway line, also in 1853. Furthermore, he opens a workshop for the manufacture of watch cases in Schaffhausen. 1860 The company archive of Jaeger-LeCoultre from this year lists Heinrich Moser as a customer. Over time, he sources up to 64 different calibres, including 24 complications. The uncompromising quality of his watches gains him access as a supplier to the Imperial Court, royal households and the armed forces. Within just a few years, he is selling watches as far afield as Japan, China, Persia but also to the West, in Paris and New York. 1863/64 Heinrich Moser embarks on the construction of the largest Swiss dam on the Rhine, to supply neighbouring industrial companies with inexpensive energy via a power transmission system. This hydroelectric power station marks the start of the industrial age in Schaffhausen. 1868 Moser supports F. A. Jones in the foundation of the International Watch Company (IWC) by providing premises and energy to drive the machines. 1874 Heinrich Moser dies on 23 October. His will names his second wife, Fanny Moser, as the heiress of all his business interests. 1877 Fanny Moser sells the entire Russian trading operation to its managing director Winterhalter. The watch factory in Le Locle goes to Paul Girard. The contracts of sale stipulate that all successor companies must continue to operate in perpetuity under the registered brand names of H. Moser & Cie or Heinrich Moser & Co. 1917

The Russian October Revolution completely eradicates the private watch market in the country that is dominated by the Swiss watchmakers. The last of the Swiss Directors of the Moser company return to Switzerland totally expropriated in early 1918. The business in Le Locle is unaffected by the political turmoil and carries on as before, attempting to compensate for the loss of the Russian markets through increased exports to other countries.


TIMELINE

1920 The State-owned «Central Watch Repair Workshop» in Moscow is formed from the remains of the Moser watch businesses. 1953 Wristwatch production in Le Locle is expanded, and the proportion of pocket watches produced decreases steadily. Some of the watches also bear the name «Henry Moser», in spite of this being in breach of the 1877 agreements. 1973 H. Moser & Co. is mentioned as a manufacturer of precision lever escapement watches and special watches, predominantly in 18-carat gold and in cases set with precious stones. The quartz watch crisis that is widespread in the Swiss watch industry also affects the business in Le Locle. 1979 The watch factory in Le Locle becomes part of the Dixi Mechanique Group and trades as «Hy Moser & Cie». 2002 The original brand of the founder, «H. Moser & Cie», is once more registered internationally by Dr. Jürgen Lange. The Moser Schaffhausen AG watch company is launched jointly with representatives of the Moser family. The great-grandson of Heinrich Moser, Roger Nicholas Balsiger, is today Honorary Chairman of Moser Group AG. 2005 To mark the bicentenary of Heinrich Moser’s birth, the successor company Moser Schaffhausen AG, under the H. Moser & Cie brand, once again launches a range of watches that are faithful to the legacy of the founding father on the international watch arena. 2006 H. Moser & Cie introduces its four watch ranges, Moser Perpetual 1, Monard Date, Monard and Mayu, to a broad public for the first time at «Baselworld 2006». 2006 Montre de l’année 2006 – 2nd prize for the Moser Perpetual 1. In the opinion of the professional jury of the special-interest watch magazine, Montre Passion: «The classic case of the Perpetual 1 / Flash Calendar from Moser conceals a highly innovative mechanical movement».

Favourite Watch with Complication • 2006

2006 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève – Prix de la Montre Compliquée. In November 2006, H. Moser & Cie wins one of the most highly coveted prizes of the Swiss horological industry. The Moser Perpetual 1 takes first place

MOSER PERPETUAL 1

in the complicated watches category.

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106

2007 «Baselworld 2007» is the venue where H. Moser & Cie introduces the Straumann Hairspring ®, developed jointly over several years with its associate company Precision Engineering AG, Schaffhausen, to an international specialist audience. 2007 The new Henry Double Hairspring watch line, a tonneau watch with the revolutionary double hairspring escapement from Moser and a specially designed movement, is presented at «Baselworld 2007». 2007 Palladium, an extremely rare precious metal with a brilliantly radiant white lustre, also embraces the realm of watches from H. Moser & Cie. The Mayu Palladium model is presented to the public. 2007 Moser Group AG is formed from Moser Schaff hausen AG. All the associate companies are now united under a single roof. Moser Schaff hausen AG, Precision Engineering AG and MSG AG Manufacturing Support Group together guarantee the independence, the considerable public success and the substantial growth of the H. Moser & Cie brand. 2008 The H. Moser & Cie brand celebrates its 180th anniversary. 2008 The Mayu Black Pearl and Mayu White Pearl with mother-of-pearl dials and elegant stingray leather straps are launched. 2008 The Mayu Palladium is equipped with the Straumann Double Hairspring escapement with capement wheel in hardened white gold. An external indication of this is provided by the new colour used for the dial. 2009 Moser Group AG continues to invest in the verticalization of production for its group members. Around 70 jobs have now been created and an in-house production facility has been set up. 2009 In view of the great success of the highly elegant fumé dial, the Henry and Monard models are now made available in this design with a brilliant white palladium case with Straumann Double Hairspring escapement. 2009 A reproduction of the original book dating back to 1875 on the life of Heinrich Moser is produced in an exclusive private edition. The book, which was written shortly after his death and which is rarely to be found in the original, is now presented in a boxed set together with the translation into other languages, in modern typography.


TIMELINE

2010 The multi-million investments by the Moser Group in expertise, longevity and growth are largely completed. The Moser Group emerges strongly from the international financial crisis. H. Moser & Cie acts as principal sponsor of a major equestrian event for the first time. The 4-star CSI Basel 2010 tournament achieves a spectacular debut with outstanding international competitors and an exclusive programme of associated events. 2010 The Moser Perpetual Moon is unveiled. Another superlative watch with a moon phase display which can be set accurately to the minute and can run over 1,000 years without adjustment. 2011 The CSI in Basel, the world’s best-endowed indoor show jumping competition, is awarded 5-star status, not least because of the sponsorship of H. Moser & Cie. Moser celebrates this with the launch of the Monard Marrone. 2011 The Perpetual 1 Golden Edition is premiered. With solid gold fumé dial, gold hands and a movement with solid gold plate and bridges, together with the interchangeable Straumann Double Hairspring escapement, it releases a torrent of emotions, the high point being the world’s first functional diamond end stone in a shockabsorber. 2011 The Moser Perpetual 1 Fumé Palladium is the first watch with a perpetual calendar combining the advantages of the double hairspring escapement with the complexity of an elegant, quintessentially Moser watch. 2012 The first Moser watch with automatic movement is presented at «Baselworld 2012». With its innovative second time zone, the Meridian range again underlines Moser’s expression of elegance and throws light on the meaning of its maxim «passionately different».

107


COPYRIGHT 2012 BY MOSER SCHAFFHAUSEN AG ALL PRODUCTS SHOWN OR MENTIONED IN THIS CATALOGUE MAY BE PROTECTED BY COPYRIGHT. FOR BR ANDS WHICH DO NOT BELONG TO MOSER SCHAFFHAUSEN AG, THE COPYRIGHT IS PROPERT Y OF THE CORRESPONDING COMPANIES. TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS AND AVAIL ABILIT Y OF ALL MODELS ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE

Pictures

MANFRED DUBACH, katharina lochs, marcel studer, sammlung homberger, CArl J. Koch, stadtarchiv schaffhausen

Art Direction

manfred dubach, K Atharina Lochs

Layout

dubach.digital GMBH, GÄCHLINGEN

Digital Image Processing

dubach.digital GMBH, GÄCHLINGEN

Print Bookbinding

Sonderegger Druck AG, WEinfelden SChumacher AG, Schmitten

moser schaffhausen AG member of moser group ag rundbuckstrasse 10, ch-8212 neuhausen am rheinfall, switzerland t +41 52 674 00 50, www.h-moser.com


Moser Catalogue III_English_Baselworld 2012_novelties  

Moser Catalogue III_English_Baselworld 2012_novelties

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