Pécsi Borozó Olaszrizling Grand Tasting 2021 EN

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OLASZRIZLING GRAND TASTING 2021


For me, Olaszrizling is… … part of my personal history. When I moved to Pécs, the pubs dispensed Olaszrizling from Siklós and Portugieser, which at that time you could still call Kékoportó, from Villány. Most of it was bulk wine, which was getting worse and worse, wine counterfeiting was rampant, and you were served horrible plonk that could barely be called wine from suspicious-looking plastic containers. However, there were some places with good wine. We sought out the good. We went to Villány. We went to Siklós. We went on wine courses. A parallel universe opened up, where the wine was good, enjoyable, diverse and boasted thousands of flavours. After Olaszrizling from Siklós came that from Pécs followed by South Balaton, and then we ventured to the northern shore of the lake and then on to Somló. So much wine, so many occasions and so many moments. And then, the rediscovery of wines from Drávaszög, where, as kids, we used to visit the family for the harvest. But now the wines, the cellars and the people have also taken on a different meaning. I’ve tasted the whole of Central Europe through a single variety, from Szerémség, Bánát, the former Kutjevó and Muraköz. There is nothing else in which I can better see our centuries-old common heritage. … religion. A typically regional variety - let’s forget for a moment the eight hectares of vineyard of Borba, genetically Olaszrizling, in Spain – which is indigenous to the Carpathian Basin. Indigenous is an odd word, of course, for such a diverse and rapidly changing plant, but generations have been raised on it and it has a sense of home. When I have Olaszrizling in my glass, I feel at home. … the future. There are roughly 30,000 hectares planted, with nearly 5,000 of those in Hungary. You can find it in practically every wine region. Olaszrizling is cultivated in every country around Hungary too, wherever the Monarchy once reached. Whether it be Graševina, Welschriesling, Grašac, Ryzlink Vlašský, Rizling Vlašský, Laški rizling or Riesling Italico. Its name is misleading, it leads to controversy, we don’t like to use the others’ names, we argue about its origin, should it be a wine for spritzers or a top wine, or is it perhaps everything? It can be so much more if we believe in it and look to the future. All we can do is bring together wines from the wider region every year, mobilise producers, invite judges who love Olaszrizling and show its broad spectrum to wine lovers. The first Grand Tasting presented us with 125 faces of Olaszrizling. However, this also gave us the opportunity to gain an impression of styles, national character, regional characteristics and unique approaches. We all learned something, from the wines and from each other. Those who believe in the variety should get to know it as well as possible, not only in their immediate environment, but also from a wider perspective. … cooperation. The tasting was hosted by the reclusive wine village of Mecseknádasd, as they call themselves. The Association of Mecseknádasd Grape and Wine Producers joined us as co-organiser, providing a venue and helping hands. It was a pleasure to work with good people for a good cause. We are very grateful, thank you! Now, I only hope that next time, the local small producers will be braver, and we can taste some Olaszrizling from Mecseknádasd too, because they have some lovely wines, as we discovered at the evening tasting. … life. Let’s taste Olaszrizling, encourage winemakers not to lose faith in it and motivate them to make better and better wines. Besides Kékfrankos, Olaszrizling is the variety that can really show what this region, from northern Italy to Romania and from the Czech Republic to Serbia, is capable of. There is an Olaszrizling for every day and for every mood, you simply have to find it. We are seeking it relentlessly. Zoltán Győrffy Pécsi Borozó editor-in-chief

2 | Pécsi Borozó | Tasting



LIST OF JURY MEMBERS: DÁNIEL ERCSEY (Hungary), one of the panel chairs, is editor-in-chief of the Central European portal WineSofa, editor of Pécsi Borozó, wine writer and permanent judge at various Hungarian and international wine competitions. His main area of expertise is Central and Eastern Europe.

CSABA SCHLAPP (Hungary), member of the organisation committee, is a WSET L3-holder, viticulturist-winemaker, vineyard and winery owner of Pécs-Postavőlgy. He was the only person tasting every sample before it was poured, sifting out any faulty or problematic wines.

ZOLTÁN GYŐRFFY (Hungary), organisation committee chairman, is editorin-chief of Pécsi Borozó, organiser of various international and regional wine competitions and wine events and a wine writer.

SAŠA ŠPIRANEC (Croatia) wine writer, wine judge and consultant, he is author of numerous wine books and guides and a contributor to leading Croatian magazines and newspapers (Jutarnji list, Dobra Hrana). Founder and organiser of wine conferences, professional events, wine festivals and international wine judge at IWC, DWWA and CMB wine competitions.

JÁNOS HETÉNYI (Hungary), president of the co-organiser Mecseknádasdi Grape and Wine Growers Association, is a winemaker, wine judge, WSET L3-holder, owner of Hetényi Winery and chief organiser of the National Wine Competition of the Hungarian Germans. ANA HOZJAN (Croatia), wine expert and wine judge, is project manager at the Croatian Vinart and organiser of various wine festivals and conferences, including the Vinart Grand Tasting and the Vinski Grad (wine town) project, which has also visited Zagreb, Varaždin, Rijeka and Pula. IGOR LUKOVIĆ (Serbia), one of the panel chairs, is editor-in-chief of the wine magazine Vino i Fino, board member of the SERSA sommelier association, wine writer, wine consultant, regular judge at Decanter DWWA and IWC in London and panel chair at the Balkans International Wine Competition. BRIGITTE RIENER (Austria), did the WSET (Wines and Spirits Education Trust) and is currently studying agricultural sciences/enology at the University of Life Science in Vienna, she has 15 years of work experience in wine tourism, wine marketing, public relations and strategic planning for wineries and wine regions around the world.

4 | Pécsi 4  |  Pécsi Borozó  Borozó || Tasting Teszt

SUE TOLSON (Hungary/United Kingdom) wine writer, translator and WSET educator, is managing editor of WineSofa, an international wine judge, including at IWC and Vinitaly 5StarWines, co-organiser of GoVolcanic, Vinitaly Italian Wine Expert and currently a Master of Wine student. Specialist areas: Hungary and Italy. DUŠAN VRANIĆ (Serbia), one of Serbia’s most successful sommeliers and wine critics, who spent 16 years in the United States working in some of the finest restaurants, he is well-versed in the premium segment of the wine market and is currently living in Belgrade and working on opening his own restaurant.

Wine, food, joie de vivre – every day: ▶ www.pecsiborozo.hu


TEST

OLASZRIZLING GRAND TASTING 2021 When we decided to organise two big tastings this year, we hadn’t counted on two things: the impact of the pandemic on our daily lives and the fact that we could still do it despite this. Our spring Kékfrankos test was more badly affected by the pandemic situation, as we could only invite Hungarian judges to Pécs, and the Central Europeanism turned into an Austrian-Hungarian competition. However, we had rarely seen 112 Kékfrankos together and especially not of such quality. By comparison, The Olaszrizling Grand Tasting exceeded all our expectations, with 125 samples from six countries, and 69 wineries from 23 wine regions sending us their wines. We received Olaszrizling, Graševina, Welschriesling, Grašac, Ryzlink Vlašský and Rizling Vlašský. Translated by country, that means we tasted wines from Hungarian, Croatian, Austrian, Serbian, Slovakian and Czech wine regions. Accordingly, the jury was also international, with Croatian, Serbian, Austrian, British and Hungarian experts who also believe in the variety sitting at the same table or, to be more precise, two tables. We divided the best wines into four categories: dry, sweet, sparkling and orange. Of course, the most popular was dry, but there were also 21 sweet/medium-sweet entries, 6 sparkling wines and 4 orange wines.

TEST

Our list presents those wines scoring over 80 points.

DRY

SWEET

SPARKLING

ORANGE

How we score:

98-100 CHAMPION: exceptional, perfect wine

92-97 GRAND GOLD: unique, elegant, great wine

86-91 GOLD: complex, characterful, very good wine

80-85 SILVER: above average, full-bodied, good wine

74-79 BRONZE: good wine without any special virtues or faults

Tasting | Pécsi Borozó  |  5


97

95

94

KUTJEVO DD GRAŠEVINA LEDENO VINO 2018 (Kutjevo, Croatia)

VISTA HILLS WHITE RESERVE 2012 (Srem-Fruška Gora, Serbia)

VINO BUHAČ GRAŠEVINA ŠUMA 2019 (Ilok, Croatia)

Intense aroma of pollen, followed by meadow flower honey, with high acidity perfectly balancing the sweetness. Full body and overwhelmingly intense flavours. The finish is reminiscent of candied lemon and apricot jam. Extremely intense and long, with some citrus sweetness at the end. A great wine.

Ripe aromas, spicy, warmer in tone, yet retaining fruit and floral notes too. More restrained on the palate but with lively acidity, almonds on the finish and a slight bitterness. A very characterful, well-proportioned, unique wine that is still showing at its best, even at this age.

Golden green colour, a very lively wine visually. Wonderful aromas of candied lemon, sweet grape and ripe apricot. The palate is honeyed, complex, rich and intense. Dried fruit, a slight tropical note, with hints of apricot and sweet chestnut, culminating in a long finish.

€50.00, at the winery

€18.00, at the winery

€14.00, at the winery

93

93

93

DOBOSI PINCÉSZET 13,91 OLASZRIZLING 2018 (Balatonfüred-Csopak, Hungary)

VINARSTVO VIA MAGNA RIZLING VLAŠSKY 2019 (Južnoslovenska, Slovakia)

GALIĆ GRAŠEVINA LEON 2011 (Kutjevo, Croatia)

Lively, rich and complex, with firm, beautiful acidity. The palate is deep and intense, with a perfect balance between creaminess and the bright sweetness of tropical fruit, with hints of pollen, honey and white pepper. Exceptional minerality and serious potential.

Mature aromas of raisin, botrytis and dried tropical fruit. It has character on the palate, with good acidity, lively fruitiness, orange zest and apricot jam along with a metallic mineral note. An exciting, complex wine, long and nicely layered.

A wine in excellent condition, with intense aromas of dried fruit, dried flowers and honey. Full-bodied, creamy and well-structured on the palate, demonstrating an excellent balance of dried tropical fruit and toasted seeds, against a lovely backbone of acidity.

3,300 HUF, at the winery

€4.80, at the winery

€44.40, at the winery

6 | Pécsi Borozó | Tasting


92

92

92

VINUM VINARIJA DINA 2018 (Srem-Fruška Gora, Serbia)

SZÁSZI BIRTOK SZIGLIGETI KABÓCÁS OLASZRIZLING 2018 (Badacsony, Hungary)

ZANTHO WELSCHRIESLING 2020 (Burgenland, Austria)

Characteristic, distinctive aromas with fresh fruit yet also biscuity-yeasty notes. Good acidity, lively fruitiness with the yeasty-biscuity character developing further with a hint of rusk and a touch of brioche. In very good condition, but definitely still evolving. An exciting sparkling wine.

Intensive nose of botrytis, raisins, honey and dried Mediterranean herbs. A little overripeness on the palate with a full body and robust character. Dates, carob and caramel on the finish. An exciting wine, but a little more freshness and acidity would also work wonders.

Fresh, light and lively with citrus and green apple on the nose. This is reflected on the palate, with vibrant acidity, a filigree structure and praise for its ethereal liveliness. Everything is as it should be: it has momentum, lovely fruit and a touch of salinity. The second glass also slips down nicely after the first.

€14.00, at the winery

5,500 HUF, at the winery

€6.90, at the winery

92

92

92

LAPOSA BIRTOK 4HEGY 2019 (Badacsony, Hungary)

MARTIN POMFY WINERY RIZLING VLAŠSKY SELECTION 2019 (Malokarpatska, Slovakia)

BELWARD PINCÉSZET CLASSIC OLASZRIZLING 2019 (Pécs, Hungary)

An exceptional wine with depth, minerality and layers. Peach and pear with fine yeasty notes. Balanced and rich on the palate. Creamy yet minerally structure, with plenty of saline notes and ripe fruit sweetness. Serious ageing potential for at least 15 years.

Crisp apple with fresh apricot and linden blossom from the vineyard, Nicely proportioned body and firm structure, a fruit-forward wine with minerality lurking in the background. It is so varietally characteristic that it is also unique.

Ripe aromas of grapefruit, herbs, apple and a touch of pollen on the nose. Good acidity on the palate with both sweet fruit character and some almond bitterness as well as notes of tea and quince. A touch of phenolic bite on the finish. A wine with real personality.

3,400 HUF, at the winery

€15.00, at the winery

1,800 HUF, at the winery

Tasting | Pécsi Borozó  |  7


92

91

90

GALIĆ GRAŠEVINA KASNA BERBA 2018 (Kutjevo, Croatia)

VINUM VINARIJA GRAŠAC BELI 2019 (Srem-Fruška Gora, Serbia)

PERAK GRAŠEVINA MITROVAC 2019 (Kutjevo, Croatia)

Deep golden colour with a bouquet of candied lemon zest and mandarin marmalade. The palate is rich, sweet, intense and very long, with perfectly judged acidity giving the wine liveliness. Extremely long finish.

Ripe, fruit aromas of citrus, linden and pomelo. Rich, full, minerally mouthfeel with a very tight structure and excellent acidity. Long, persistent and memorable on the palate, which boasts both fruit and bitterness. Its ripeness also gives it momentum.

Intense aromas of dried fruit, floral notes, honey and linden blossom, with tiny hints of caramel and petrol in the background. It boasts a broad spectrum of flavours, from chamomile to dried apricot. The almond bitterness hits towards the finish, although a little more freshness would give it an extra boost.

€8.00, at the winery

€12.00, at the winery

€7.00, at the winery

90

90

90

VINUM VINARIJA GRAŠAC 26A 2019 (Srem-Fruška Gora, Serbia)

KRAUTHAKER GRAŠEVINA IBPB 2017 (Kutjevo, Croatia)

MARTIN POMFY WINERY RIZLING VLAŠSKY SELECTION 2018 (Malokarpatska, Slovakia)

Exciting aromas interweaving notes of citrus and creamy vanilla with nectarine and sweet spice. It is all integrated beautifully into a full-bodied palate with bright acidity. Quite dense, yet lively and long. Boasts great potential.

Intense honey and dried fruit notes on the nose. Dried fruit also dominates the palate, starting with raisin and then continuing through mango and to the exoticism of papaya. The high residual sugar is balanced by crisp acidity and just a hint of bitterness.

Lively aromas, lots of mineral notes and ample acidity that complements the structure. Extremely dry and pleasantly tight on the palate with both a savoury character and a lively Mediterranean citrus sweetness. The finish is relatively long.

€12.00, at the winery

€26.00, vinoteka-vinita.hr

€15.00, at the winery

8 | Pécsi Borozó | Tasting


89

GALIĆ GRAŠEVINA MATEO 2018 (Kutjevo, Croatia)

89

Ripe and overripe juicy fruit on the nose with a touch of botrytis and some honeyed notes. Full-bodied on the palate with creamy, homemade apple pie and juicy pear compote. A big wine with a long finish. €44.40, at the winery

89

89

88

ILOČKI PODRUMI GRAŠEVINA VRHUNSKA 2020 (Ilok, Croatia)

89

SZEREMLEY BIRTOK OLASZRIZLING KÉSŐI SZÜRETELÉSŰ 2000 (Badacsony, Hungary)

89

ZELNA FÜRED OLASZRIZLING 2020 (Balatonfüred-Csopak, Hungary)

A late harvest wine with spicy, mineral and honeyed aromas. Fig jam, caramel, raisin and eucalyptus. A complex wine with still very lively aromatics. Almond biscuit on the palate with candied lemon and orange. A persistent wine.

Intensely flavoured and medium-bodied with stone fruit on the palate and some almond and herbs in the background. A developed nose with plenty of yeasty notes and saline minerality.

5,600 HUF, at the winery

2,490 HUF, at the winery

DOBOSI PINCÉSZET TAG OLASZRIZLING 2019 (Balatonfüred-Csopak, Hungary)

89

KRAUTHAKER GRAŠEVINA MITROVAC 2018 (Kutjevo, Croatia)

Deep golden green colour. Full flavours and intense aromas. Honey and floral notes mingle with white peach. The nose is layered and persistent, while the palate is rich and pleasantly spicy with ripe fruit. Round, pure and long on the palate.

Delicate aromas of white pepper. Ripe fruit, pear, melon and a touch of quince. Intense and mineral, slightly saline yet with plenty of ripe fruit sweetness mingling with gently spicy notes. A layered, refined, nicely aged wine.

Its beautiful, rich nose is the ideal blend of yellow autumn fruits, floral notes and autumn apple varieties. There’s also a hint of noble rot and some yeasty notes, with candied citrus fruit on the finish. Ripe yellow fruit and subtly mineral finish.

€7.50, at the winery

3,300 HUF, at the winery

3,990 HUF, pannonborbolt.hu

VINA BELJE GRAŠEVINA GOLDBERG 2020 (Baranja, Croatia)

88

ERDUTSKI VINOGRADI GRAŠEVINA VRHUNSKA 2020 (Hrvatsko Podunavlje, Croatia)

88

PATKOV VINOGRAD GEPPETTO 2018 (SremFruška Gora, Serbia)

Ripe fruit on the nose with apricot followed by honey and pollen. The palate is sweet and lively with distinctive acidity and a honeyed sweetness. Quite long, pure and lively with ripe apricot and gooseberry jam.

Opens with an intense fruity nose of fresh apple, pear, a touch of grassiness and just a hint of nettle. Fresh and primary on the palate with fresh fruit and a touch of minerality. A straightforward, likeable wine.

Starts beautifully, with a complex nose of ripe fruit, apple and peach along with vanilla, star anise and peanut. There is plenty of citrus fruit and apple on the palate together with oak spice, a tight structure, good acidity and a long finish with a hint of bitterness.

€18.00, at the winery

€10.00, at the winery

€7.00, at the winery

ILOČKI PODRUMI GRAŠEVINA KVALITETNA 2020 (Ilok, Croatia)

88

KUTJEVO DD GRAŠEVINA 2020 (Kutjevo, Croatia)

88

KRAUTHAKER GRAŠEVINA KASNA BERBA 2020 (Kutjevo, Croatia)

Layers of aromas where white peach alternates with subtle yeasty notes. Medium body and intense flavours with plenty of fruit. Rich yet also lively, with a subtle saline, mineral mid-palate and the sweetness of ripe citrus fruit on the finish.

A pleasantly refreshing wine with aromas of stone fruit and lime, also reminiscent of forest meadows and spring flowers. The palate is lively with lots of fresh fruitiness on the finish and a juicy aftertaste with notes of white pepper.

Pleasant aromas of sweet fruit and candied flower petals. Not too sweet on the palate with ripe pears and candied or caramelised apples. Medium to long finish, accompanied by just the right amount of acidity.

€4.00, at the winery

€4.00, at the winery

4,990 HUF, pannonborbolt.hu

Tasting | Pécsi Borozó  |  9


87

87

KUTJEVO DD MAXIMO BRUT NV (Kutjevo, Croatia)

87

Opens with ripe citrus fruit, a lovely mousse with soft bubbles and fine effervescence. Orange zest, medlar, yellow plum and apricot with a hint of biscuit. Light yet exciting, a lovely sparkling wine.

Fresh, lively and fruity. Apple, peach, banana and pineapple on the nose. Good acidity, tight structure with a touch of spritz giving lift. The light, trendy face of Welschriesling.

€7.00, at the winery

€5.90, at the winery

ERDEVIK GERONIMO 2020 (Srem-Fruška Gora, Serbia)

87

Intense aromas of fresh fruit. Citrus fruit, grapefruit and pomelo, mandarin and even a touch of kumquat. Bright acidity, perhaps tamed by a hint of residual sugar. A balanced wine with enough length and body.

TRI MEĐE I OBLAK GRAŠAC BELI 2020 (Srem-Fruška Gora, Serbia)

€10.00, at the winery

87

Aromatic, floral and fruity with a hint of oak spice. An enticing opening is followed by lovely structure, with evident oak yet also intense ripe peach and apple fruit. Long finish.

SZABÓ PINCE OLASZRIZLING 2020 (Pécs, Hungary) Clear, greenish-yellowish colour. Medium bodied and lively with intense aromas, followed by firm acidity and good length. Saline minerality on the mid-palate with almond bitterness on the finish. 2,190 HUF, pannonborbolt.hu

10 | Pécsi Borozó | Tasting

BORBÉLY CSALÁDI PINCÉSZET GÉZENGÚZ OLASZRIZLING LIMITED SELECTION 2019 (Badacsony, Hungary) Subtle fruitiness, minerality and a touch of oak on the nose. Sensual fruitiness, saline sweetness with vibrant acidity and a firm structure. Slightly bitter on the finish.

€12.00, at the winery

87

MIHALJ GRAŠEVINA MAČEVO BRDO 2020 (Kutjevo, Croatia) Slowly opening nose of grapefruit, butter and raisin that becomes increasingly intense and deep. On the palate, ripe fruit is accompanied by some astringency and bitterness as well as a firm structure and good acidity.

€9.00, at the winery

87

SCHEIBLHOFER WELSCHRIESLING CLASSIC 2020 (Burgenland, Austria)

8,990 HUF, at the winery

87

ZELNA FARKÓKŐ OLASZRIZLING 2020 (Balatonfüred-Csopak, Hungary) A beautiful wine with intense aromas and even more intense flavours. Full body, slightly lower acidity than expected but plenty of ripe fruit, pleasant spiciness and savoury notes on the finish. 3,990 HUF, at the winery


87

87

86

86

PÁLFFY SZŐLŐBIRTOK ÉS PINCE KÁLI KIRÁLYI FEKETEHEGY OLASZRIZLING 2019 (Balatonfelvidék, Hungary)

87

VARSÁNYI PINCÉSZET VERPELÉTI OLASZRIZLING GRAND SELECTION 2018 (Eger, Hungary)

87

SZEREMLEY BIRTOK OLASZRIZLING HEGYBOR 2017 (Badacsony, Hungary)

Yellow apple, plenty of pear and peach on the nose. Warmth and ripe sweetness on the palate. Outstanding minerality with beautiful saline notes on the finish. Very complex, exciting wine with great ageing potential.

Pleasantly spicy, mature wine with some almond and butter in the background. Mature flavours and full body. A balanced and layered wine with ripe, whitefleshed fruit and sweet spice on the palate. Long wine with good ageing potential

A serious, austere wine, mature yet still lively. Intense flavours and slightly firm on the palate with plenty of extract and a touch of noble rot. Ripe fruit, good acidity and a mineral character.

3,000 HUF, at the winery

1,790 HUF, at the winery

2,500 HUF, at the winery

PÉCSI EGYETEMI BORBIRTOK OLASZRIZLING NARANCSBOR 2015 (Pécs, Hungary)

87

A-NOBIS SEKTKELLEREI NORBERT SZIGETI A-NOBIS WELSCHRIESLING MAGNUM 2018 (Burgenland, Austria)

87

SZÁSZI BIRTOK SZENT GYÖRGY-HEGYI OLASZRIZLING 2019 (Badacsony, Hungary)

Herbal, spicy aromas with ripe, aged notes coming through on the palate. Clearly an orange wine and less obviously Olaszrizling. Tangy, dried fruit and roast vegetables with good acidity and a suitably lively palate.

Buttered brioche. Lovely balance and fine bubbles with relatively high acidity refreshing the taste buds. A hint of minerality and a touch of bitterness with fresh fruit presenting beautifully on the palate.

Intense, spicy and somewhat piquant nose. Lively yet also soft on the palate, with a slight bitterness typical of the variety on the finish which also enhances the buttery vanilla notes. A youthful wine which opens up beautifully.

2,980 HUF, at the winery

€38.90, at the winery

3,350 HUF, at the winery

ISTVÁNDY JENŐ PINCÉSZETE OLASZRIZLING 2019 (Balatonfelvidék, Hungary)

86

BODRI PINCÉSZET DŰLŐ OLASZRIZLING 2019 (Szekszárd, Hungary)

86

MOKOS PINCÉSZET OLASZRIZLING 2019 (Villány, Hungary)

Opening with peachy, creamy aromas, it is intense and full-bodied on the palate. Refreshing flavours of lemon pie and apple cream with a hint of sweet spice and enough freshness to last until the finish.

Enticing, delicate aromas of ripe peach, wildflowers, linden and sweet spice with a hint of pepper and petrol. Quite stocky in structure, the wine is richly aromatic with definite spice and good acidity, supported by ripe fruit and a long finish.

Very intense yet really fresh aromas of nectarine and apricot and wildflowers. Lively on the palate too, with mango, pomelo, even lychee and a hint of oak spice. A touch of bitterness on the finish is reminiscent of candied lemon. Not a typical wine, but well-constructed.

4,000 HUF, at the winery

3,000 HUF, at the winery

1,790 HUF, at the winery

FRUŠKOGORSKI VINOGRADI QUET GRAŠAC 2019 (Srem-Fruška Gora, Serbia) The nose combines apple and citrus fruit, buttery creaminess and petrol. Apple compote and pomelo on the palate with firm acidity, ripe fruit and a slight bitterness. Long and full-bodied. €11.00, at the winery

86

FATA PINCÉSZET BALATONBOR 2020 (Badacsony, Hungary)

86

SONTACCHI GRAŠEVINA 2020 (Kutjevo, Croatia)

Light greenish yellow in colour. Medium-bodied with balanced flavours and bright, lively acidity. It is characterised by crisp red apple with some herbs in the background. A pleasant everyday wine.

Restrained on the palate with moderate acidity, autumn fruit aromas and pleasant minerality. Hazelnut and medlar on the finish with increasingly pronounced fine minerality.

2,200 HUF, at the winery

€7.50, at the winery

Tasting | Pécsi Borozó  |  11


86

86

VINA BELJE GRAŠEVINA PREMIUM 2020 (Baranja, Croatia)

86

PINKERT GRAŠEVINA SINGLE BARREL 2019 (Baranja, Croatia)

86

SZÁSZI BIRTOK SZIGLIGETI OLASZRIZLING 2019 (Badacsony, Hungary)

Greenish colour with yellow reflexes. The nose suggests it’s more developed than its age, but it comes across as layered with lots of white ripe fruit. There’s slightly lower acidity on the palate than expected, but the flavours linger, with spicy, white pepper and lovely fruit.

Ripe apple and white peach on the palate with some oak spice in the background. It manages to stay lively with plenty of fruit yet is softly structured. There is depth to the palate with countless layers to unravel.

Exuding ripeness, it is full-bodied and packed with ripe yellow fruit and floral and honeyed notes. Intense aromas and persistent flavours with restrained acidity and a finish bursting with ripe fruity sweetness mixed with spice.

€7.00, at the winery

€10.00, at the winery

3,500 HUF, at the winery

ILOČKI PODRUMI PRINCIPOVAC GRAŠEVINA 2019 (Ilok, Croatia)

86

PINKERT GRAŠEVINA IBB 2018 (Baranja, Croatia)

Deep golden colour. Intense, appealing aromas of botrytis, forest floor and apple compote. The palate is long and spicy yet not excessively sweet and with good acidity. A slightly sweet, intense, pure Graševina.

The nose also boasts notes of spiced compote with sweet wine raisins. Spiced apple cake with firm acidity and good balance between freshness and sweetness. Medium finish, pure sweetness and fruit.

€19.00, at the winery

€13.00, at the winery

FURTHER SCORE: 85 WEINGUT KLAUS NITTNAUS WELSCHRIESLING 2020 (Burgenland, Austria) 7.00 €, AT THE WINERY MARTIN POMFY WINERY RIZLING VLAŠSKY RUBAN 2020 (Južnoslovenska, Slovakia) 8.50 €, AT THE WINERY SZÁSZI BIRTOK SZENT GYÖRGYHEGYI „RÓKALUKI” OLASZRIZLING 2020 (Badacsony, Hungary) 4,500 HUF, AT THE WINERY BORBÉLY CSALÁDI PINCÉSZET OLASZRIZLING KÉSŐI SZÜRET 2017 (Badacsony, Hungary) 4,900 HUF, AT THE WINERY

12 | Pécsi Borozó | Tasting

WEINGUT ANDREAS GSELLMANN WELSCHRIESLING 2020 (Burgenland, Austria) €8.20, AT THE WINERY CSÁNYI PINCÉSZET TELEKI OLASZRIZLING 2020 (Villány, Hungary) 1,100 HUF, AT THE WINERY VINO BUHAČ GRAŠEVINA LISKA 2020 (Ilok, Croatia) €5.50, AT THE WINERY ERDUTSKI VINOGRADI GRAŠEVINA PREMIUM 2020 (Hrvatsko Podunavlje, Croatia) €20.00, AT THE WINERY

SARKI RÓKA BORHÁZ AZ ÖN OLASZRIZLINGJE 2019 (Balatonfelvidék, Hungary) 2,100 HUF, AT THE WINERY LAPOSA BIRTOK APUKÁM VILÁGA 2019 (Badacsony, Hungary) 5,200 HUF, AT THE WINERY DOBOSI PINCÉSZET HÁROMSZÖG OLASZRIZLING 2019 (Balatonfüred-Csopak, Hungary) 3,300 HUF, AT THE WINERY BORBÉLY CSALÁDI PINCÉSZET BÁCSHEGY OLASZRIZLING 2017 (Badacsony, Hungary) 3,600 HUF, AT THE WINERY 7 ROWS RYZLINK VLAŠSKY 2017 (Moravia, Czech Republic) €25.00, AT THE WINERY BORBÉLY CSALÁDI PINCÉSZET OLASZRIZLING KÉSŐI SZÜRET 2019 (Badacsony, Hungary) 4,900 HUF, AT THE WINERY PERAK GRAŠEVINA LEDENA BERBA 2018 (Kutjevo, Croatia) €27.00, AT THE WINERY


84 SEKTKELLEREI SZIGETI WELSCHRIESLING BRUT 2019 (Burgenland, Austria) €11.50, AT THE WINERY MARTIN POMFY WINERY RIZLING VLAŠSKY 2020 (Malokarpatska, Slovakia) €10.50, AT THE WINERY AKADEMIA MODELE SOL NOSTRI 2020 (Srem-Fruška Gora, Serbia) €7.00, AT THE WINERY GALIĆ GRAŠEVINA VRHUNSKA 2020 (Kutjevo, Croatia) €6.90, AT THE WINERY

CEGA PINCÉSZET OLASZRIZLING 2020 (Villány, Hungary) 1,500 HUF, AT THE WINERY SZÁSZI BIRTOK SZENT GYÖRGY-HEGYI OLASZRIZLING HORDÓVÁLOGATÁS 2019 (Badacsony, Hungary) 4,500 HUF, AT THE WINERY VINA MAGISTRA GRAŠEVINA 2018 (Erdut, Croatia) €6.00, AT THE WINERY PÉCSI EGYETEMI BORBIRTOK PÁLOS OLASZRIZLING 2020 (Pécs, Hungary) 950 HUF, AT THE WINERY

SZEREMLEY BIRTOK BALATONBOR 2020 (Badacsony, Hungary) 1,570 HUF, AT THE WINERY MEGYERI-HANTI PINCE BÁRMIKOR OLASZRIZLING 2019 (Kunság, Hungary) 2,500 HUF, AT THE WINERY PÁLFFY SZŐLŐBIRTOK ÉS PINCE KÁLI KIRÁLYI MÁL OLASZRIZLING 2019 (Balatonfelvidék, Hungary) 3,000 HUF, AT THE WINERY MIHALJ GRAŠEVINA 2019 (Kutjevo, Croatia) €8.00, AT THE WINERY A-NOBIS SEKTKELLEREI NORBERT SZIGETI A-NOBIS WELSCHRIESLING 2018 (Burgenland, Austria) €15.50, AT THE WINERY PERAK GRAŠEVINA LEDENA BERBA 2015 (Kutjevo, Croatia) €27.00, AT THE WINERY ISTVÁNDY JENŐ PINCÉSZETE CSIKÓ RIZLING 2020 (Balatonfelvidék, Hungary) 2,500 HUF, AT THE WINERY SZENTPÉTERI BORPINCE OLASZRIZLING VÁLOGATÁS 2020 (Kunság, Hungary) 2,200 HUF, AT THE WINERY LAPOSA BIRTOK BALATONBOR 2020 (BALATON, HUNGARY) 2,000 HUF, AT THE WINERY A-NOBIS SEKTKELLEREI NORBERT SZIGETI A-NOBIS WELSCHRIESLING 2015 (Burgenland, Austria) €19.50, AT THE WINERY

83 JUHÁSZ TESTVÉREK PINCÉSZETE JUHÁSZ OLASZRIZLING 2020 (Eger, Hungary) 1,200 HUF, AT THE WINERY ŐSI GÁBOR PINCÉSZETE OLASZRIZLING 2020 (Villány, Hungary) 1,800 HUF, AT THE WINERY ISTVÁNDY JENŐ PINCÉSZETE VULKÁN RIZLING 2020 (Balatonfelvidék, Hungary) 2,190 HUF, BORHÁLÓ CSÚZI CSALÁDI PINCÉSZET OLASZRIZLING 2020 (Kunság, Hungary) 1,500 HUF, AT THE WINERY ENOSOPHIA TRS NO. 5 2020 (Feričanci, Croatia) €7.00, AT THE WINERY BÜTTNER BORBIRTOK OLASZRIZLING PRÉMIUM 2019 (Badacsony, Hungary) 3,990 HUF, AT THE WINERY VINARIJA KIŠ GRAŠAC BELI 2019 (Srem-Fruška Gora, Serbia) €6.50, AT THE WINERY BORBÉLY CSALÁDI PINCÉSZET KAPÓS OLASZRIZLING LIMITED SELECTION 2017 (Badacsony, Hungary) 6,900 HUF, AT THE WINERY

82 KÁLI BALÁZS OLASZRIZLING ÖREGTŐKÉK 2020 (Balatonfelvidék, Hungary) 2,590 HUF, AT THE WINERY KRAUTHAKER POMALE GRAŠEVINA 2020 (Kutjevo, Croatia) 3,390 HUF, PANNONBORBOLT.HU FÜRJES ÖREGHEGY OLASZRIZLING 2019 (Balatonfüred-Csopak, Hungary) 2,500 HUF, AT THE WINERY VASS BORÁSZAT OLASZRIZLING 2020 (Kunság, Hungary) 1,200 HUF, AT THE WINERY

81 FÜRJES OLASZRIZLING 2020 (Balatonfüred-Csopak, Hungary) 2,600 HUF, AT THE WINERY VERKAT VINARIJA VERAT GRAŠAC BELI 2019 (Srem-Fruška Gora, Serbia) €6.80, AT THE WINERY MIHALJ GRAŠEVINA 2018 (Kutjevo, Croatia) €7.50, AT THE WINERY KRAUTHAKER KUVLAKHE 2015 (Kutjevo, Croatia) €22.00, AT THE WINERY

80 VINA BELJE GRAŠEVINA SELECT 2020 (Baranja, Croatia) €3.00, AT THE WINERY KÁLI BALÁZS OLASZRIZLING 2020 (Balatonfelvidék, Hungary) 1,990 HUF, AT THE WINERY VINARIJA KIŠ GRAŠAC BELI 2020 (Srem-Fruška Gora, Serbia) €6.50, AT THE WINERY SZABÓ PINCÉSZET GRAŠEVINA 2020 (Baranja, Croatia) €5.50, AT THE WINERY

Tasting | Pécsi Borozó  |  13