H E A LT H F O R U M
Emergency 101 By Karen Potter, DVM
We’ve all been there. If you have hunting dogs in general or Wirehairs specifically, they have accidents. How you respond to these accidents can be the key to your hunting partner’s recovery. Being prepared with a simple yet well-equipped first-aid kit is the first step to a successful outcome. Be sure to take the first-aid kit everywhere you go with your dogs. If and when an emergency occurs, first and foremost, STAY CALM. The most important step to any emergency is to assess the situation and make rational decisions. Your dog will feed off of your energy and will become more agitated if you are excited and it does not help to react before you know the full extent of the situation. There is no possible way to prepare for every emergency that may occur but staying calm and using common sense will get you through the emergencies that happen. Lacerations: Lacerations are very common, especially when hunting in the woods and thick brush. Many times it is unknown when the laceration actually occurred, only that your hunting partner returned with an open wound that may or may not be bleeding. If there is an excessive amount of bleeding, especially one that has a bleeder that is pulsating, apply firm pressure with gauze and head to your veterinarian’s office. These types of lacerations are uncommon. More common occurrence will be cuts through the skin or puncture wounds. With most lacerations, you can take the time to clean them some and get a better idea of the severity. Saline eye wash doubles as an excellent wound cleaner to flush out dirt and debris. Once it is clear of dirt and debris you can apply a gauze bandage to continue to keep it clean and control any additional bleeding. When in Clean the laceration to assess the severity of doubt of whether or not a laceration needs suturing, visit your the wound. veterinarian. A fresh laceration (within 1-2 hours of occurrence) is an easier repair than waiting for a day or two. Without quick repair there will be further tissue damage and more tissue will need to be debrided in order to repair the wound. There will also be a higher likelihood of infection. Porcupine Quills: This is a situation that many may never encounter based on the areas that you hunt. For those that hunt in areas with these prickly critters, you have probably heard all the stories. A porcupine is a slow moving target for a hunting dog and many cannot resist the temptation. Porcupines do not “throw” their quills at all. The quills are barbed and will stick into anything that touches them and they release from the body. The barbs of the quills are microscopic but are what make the quills so difficult to remove. If your dog only gets a few quills in their nose, muzzle or mouth, these may be able to be removed in the field and you can continue on with your day of hunting. It is painful and most will fight about the removal. If there are some in the mouth, you may be able to place a wooden dowel or tree branch in their mouth and tie it in place with roll gauze. This will keep their mouth open and allow you to pull quills from their gums or tongue. Always be
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WIRE NEWS
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