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018.

Guide to Unique Photography Europe â‚Ź 5,T h e F a s h i o n I s s ue


© Petrovsky & Ramone

Cover image © Mick Rock Rock-’n-Roll Kate On show at V!P’s Amsterdam & Rotterdam Jan 27 - Apr 11

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07 news LIFE & Google, Otto & Witte de With, Coco & Karl, Corbijn & G-Star and much more.

32 collectors tip Tomas Struth’s ‘The Terhardt Family’ and ‘Exactitudes’ by Ari Versluis & Ellie Uyttenbroek

18 books International photography books telling their own unique story.

36 interview Fashion icon Albert Watson answers our burning questions about fashion photography.

27 the shadow archives The first part of this new series pays tribute to the fact that the eighties are in again.

40 portfolio Albert Watson The man of over 350 Vogue covers, 600 tv-commercials and thousands of publications.

28 photo file A few artists who made fashion photography a league of their own.

50 portfolio Dennis Duijnhouwer Dennis isn’t particularly interested in shooting fashion, still most of his work can’t be seen as non-fashionable.


contents

60 portfolio Coriette Schoenaerts “Photography is often clear enough.” Coriette, we can’t disagree.

102 column Laura Noble shares her personal view on fashion photography.

70 portfolio Petrovsky & Ramone This duo works in a former tendon room in Amsterdam’s Red the Light District.

104 bkmrks It seems as though there are a limited number of fashion photographers prepared to take risks. We have found a few who dare.

82 portfolio Lise Sarfati Lise crossed the Southern US where she captured fashion from an unusual perspective. 92 portfolio I Love Fake We asked Jolijn Snijders to create a portfolio of her e-zine. So she did.

109 guide Upcoming photography exhibitions. A worldwide playlist: Europe USA/Canada Asia/Australia 5


books

Love Me Turkmenistan

by Nicolas Righetti P ro k u d i n - G o r s k i j true colours

trichromatische fotografie

• trichromatic photography

True ColoUrs

by Sergei ProdudinGorskij

Russia at the dawn of the twentieth century, the revolution had not yet begun. Traveling through the inhospitable Caucasus and the immense terrain of Central Asia, Produdin-Gorskij caught the changes taking place in the empire and the industrialization of a new society on color film. These color images of the cultural inheritance, the population – from farmers to literary greats – architecture and landscapes bring the old Russia back to life.

Hardback 200 x 250 mm 144 pages Publisher d’jonge Hond ISBN 9789089100825 €34.95

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After Mikhail Gorbachev’s glasnost came through intact, Saparmurat Niazov became a president solely interested in his own personal glorification. The towns in Turkmenistan were re-named, Niazov’s face stamped onto bank notes and the free press shut down. It was not long before the internet cafes closed down and a public holiday celebrating tapestry and melon was introduced. Even after death Niazov’s legacy visibly pervades Turkmenian public life. Surreal images complete with demented quotes from ‘God’ himself. Hardback 200 x 200 mm Publisher Trolley Books ISBN 9781904563914 £14.99


Patrick Demarchelier

by Patrick Demarchelier

According to the publisher this is ‘the definitive collection from the most influential fashion photographer of this era’. They’re not wrong. Get acquainted with select fashion photography in a comprehensive format, from Demarcheliers earlier work for Harper's Bazaar to legendary projects for Vogue. Kate Moss, Madonna and Lady Di: Demarchelier photographed them all many times and produced images that, to a large extent, determined their public personas. Profits from the book are going to PoliceAction Solidaire in France. Clothbound hardcover with dust jacket 408 pages 408 color and b/w plates 270 x 310 mm Publisher Steidldangin ISBN 9783865217363 £48.50 / $99.00 / €68.00

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books

Balance

by 15th World Press Photo Joop Swart Masterclass

50 Photographs

Participants taking part in the 15th Joop Swart Master class didn’t turn up empty handed. They had been briefed beforehand about the theme, balance, and each participant brought a photo essay along. This book contains images from the twelve talented photographers, each photo an individual interpretation of the theme. While some of the photographers clearly related their work to the theme, others approached it as a state of mind more than anything else. The images are even more interesting after reading the background stories and the interpretations of the new generation of photographers that accompanies them. Hardcover 96 pages color and b/w plates €15.00

by Jessica Lange

Jessica Lange is a Hollywood creation. Her career as an actress spanned a period of thirty years, during which time she made thirty films and won two Oscars. However it was in the unlikely location behind the camera that Lange was truly fulfilled. After intently photographing her surroundings for the last fifteen years, fifty of her photographs compose her book featuring images of Mexico, Russia, Africa and Europe. Sullen and polished images unmistakably influenced by cinematography. Hardbound 112 pages 50 duotone illustrators 103⁄4 x 141⁄4” Publisher Powerhouse Books ISBN 1576874532 $60.00 ©James Pomerantz, USA

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Portraits of Power

by Richard Avedon

Shooting good quality portraits is a profession in itself and like every craft portrait photography knows its masters, one in particular. Richard Avedon (1923-2004) possessed the gift of being able to get people to open up, bare their souls. This gift underpins 'Portraits of Power', a collection of portraits taken over five decades of influential leaders from the arenas of politics, media, activism, writing and citizen debate. Malcolm X, Ronald Reagan, young Berliners at the fall of the wall, each subject has something to say, everyone a character. Faces brought to us by Avedon. Clothbound Hardcover with dust jacket 300 pages 180 black & white plates 220 x 300 mm Publisher Steidl & Partners ISBN 9783865216755 ÂŁ30.00 / $60.00 / â‚Ź45.00

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interview albert watson

choices More than 350 covers for Vogue, 700 plus commercials, thousands of celebrations in front of the camera, countless photos for all the big fashion magazines, travel books and anything else you can think of. There aren’t many CVs that can boast that kind of experience, in fact there is most likely only one. Albert Watson, icon of the fashion world and beyond, managed to squeeze us into his busy schedule to answer our burning questions about fashion photography. by Peter Bas Mensink First of all I’d like to thank you for letting us use your monkey hand on the cover of GUP issue 10 [the Photo Books issue]. We still think it’s one of our better covers. I remember seeing that cover. It’s pretty good! I like your magazine and I am very honoured a young and cosmopolitan looking magazine like GUP is publishing an interview with some photos of mine. I must thank you. Well, you’re more then welcome! We’re doing a fashion themed issue and first off we’d like to know how you got involved in Fashion photography?

I studied graphic design for four years and after that I went to the film school in London. When I finished I thought it would be interesting to do some photography as well. In the beginning I hardly took any fashion photos, but when I moved to Los Angeles in the 70’s to be a professional photographer, I found out that fashion photography could make me a great deal of money. So gave it a try and well… here I am now. Has a lot changed since? Oh yes, there used to be much more editorial then it is now. It was much freer. The division of advertising and editorial was much clearer. Nowadays it can sometimes be hard to see the difference. In the old days fashion photographers in general had more knowledge of fabrics and beauty. Nowadays it’s more driven by the photographer instead of the fabrics, model etc he needs to be working with. So what makes a fashion photo a good fashion photo? Hair, fabrics, make-up, styling, the model, the lighting, the location and, of course, the clothes. They are all very important in a good fashion photo. But nowadays it seems to be more and more about the location or the model

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portfolio albert watson guide

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portfolio dennis duijnhouwer

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Dennis Duijnhouwer isn’t that bothered when it comes to fashion photography. He used to do a fashion show once in a while, but his true passion lies elsewhere. For him fashion photography is all too often too slick, too contrived, and not spontaneous enough. Somehow though, he does end up shooting fashion photos – quite a lot at that. His compositions have become fashion resistant over the years; they are neither slick, nor contrived but definitely spontaneous: The young and beautiful letting loose at parties.

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portfolio corriette schoenaerts

corrietteschoenaertsanti

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www.corrietteschoenaerts.com


portfolio petrovsky and ramone

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www.petrovskyramone.com 80


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portfolio jolijn snijders

Online magazines are hot. Everyone can make one and distribute it, worldwide. Unfortunately there’s a lot of crap coming out. But not Ilovefake Magazine. When we had seen the last couple of editions we kind of got jealous. That’s the way we would do fashion if we would be doing fashion, but we don’t, except for the occasional fashion themed issue like this one. We asked Jolijn Snijders, the brains behind ILOVEFAKE, and fashion photographer, to create a portfolio of her e-zine. So she did.

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Jolijn Snijders grew up surrounded by punkrock kids and bands. At gigs she got handed down countless cut & paste fanzines, flyers and homemade cover sleeves. So she got the idea to create a similar kind of zine, one where upcoming talent and established artists meet, mixing art, photography & fashion. Spotting new wissue. On the following pages Jolijn shows a selection of her favorite upcoming photographers who try to find a balance between autonomous and commissioned work.


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portfolio dennis schoenberg

Dennis Schoenberg assisted photography masters such as Rankin, Wolfgang Tillmans and Steven Klein. He’s now quickly following their footsteps by building a solid portfolio. In London he captures true punk rock kids. This hardcore attitude towards his work has already been rewarded by an extensive collaboration with I-D magazine.

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portfolio julie pike

HARD CANDY JULIE PIKE is a photographer living and working in Oslo, Norway Her work is real, flirty and soft, sometimes reminding us of a young Corinne Day. Julie’s strong in portraying young girls in a truly genuine way, her sweet stories have us mesmerized for more...

Julie was educated at the Academy of Art College in San Francisco. Julie currently lives in Oslo where she works as a freelance photographer with a strong emphasis on fashion. She has worked for magazines such as VICE, Bon, Elle, Nylon, Oyster, S publication and Mirage Magazine and has had exhibitions in Oslo, New york and recently in Amsterdam.

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portfolio roberta ridolfi

THE REAL KIDS ROBERTA RIDOLFI’s wonderful work charmed me from the minute I saw it in on the pages of independent fashion magazines such as Baby Baby Baby, Dealer, Nylon and Preen. What sets Roberta apart is the tongue in cheek, “I like working in fashion, I think it can leave you a lot of freedom and allows you to be very imaginative.” She says. The way she captures her subjects is young and playful. “I like my photos to be spontaneous and not too planned. I try to capture something from the people Im shooting and normally the story comes together by itself.” Here come the real teenagers, and not the polished models we normally see in fashion magazines.

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column

IN FASHION by Laura Noble

© Tim Walker

Fashion photography has never been my favourite genre, but I have warmed to it over the years as several outstanding photographers’ have been brought to my attention through both the editorial and art world. When the mark is set high the pickings are good. For me the ultimate fashion photographer has been and I suspect will always be Guy Bourdin. His work combines surrealist sensibilities with stylish flare and always with a dry wit so often lacking in the glossies today. There are, of course, exceptions to this flippant statement, notably by the likes of photographers such as Tim Walker and Miles Aldridge, both of whose work reflects their respect for Bourdin, the grand master. Tim Walker plays with the surreal undertaking physical imaginings that transpose his ideas through real-life constructions resisting the temptations of Photoshop and building magical sets with playful references to art and literature. A model lies on a bed of multiple mattresses, like the Princess and the Pea, dresses hang from a tree in the dark illuminated from inside to become exquisite lanterns and a the cable release of a giant camera is depressed by a model dwarfed by it like Alice in Wonderland. This fantasy world sits perfectly against the beauty myths that fashion can create. Fashion always looks back as well as forward. Great photography embraces this with both hands. Dutch photographer Erwin Olaf in his recent self titled book takes us back to the 1950’s with perfectly manicured sets of subtle tones of beige, browns and mint green. He procures the loneliness and need for perfection that society seems to

demand whilst feeding our thirst to look at the unattainable. His work lies in a pivotal space between fashion and art that dispels the borders of both. In 2005, Miles Aldridge rendered Lilly Cole as an iridescent PreRaphaelite for Vogue Italia. Her skin is as pale as porcelain; her body is decorated with butterflies as she stands amongst the intricately entwined coils of ivy behind her, aptly titled Like a Painting. The blurring of these lines is the true success of fashion photography. By embracing one form to invoke the other, commercial concerns - such as the selling of clothes - can exhibit the artistry needed to produce the clothing by enhancing the way in which they are portrayed. The costume becomes the character to which a model must step into and the photographer becomes a director whose job it is to draw out their best possible performance. We are the audience waiting to be wowed and wanting to part of it. I want to skip through these worlds, the sun in my hair wearing clothes to die for. Although we know it is not real, I suppose the closest we may get to such a place is to just keep looking… www.guybourdin.org www.thomastreuhaft.com www.milesaldridge.com www.erwinolaf.com 103


bkmrks

THOSE WHO DARE Fashion photography is an unusual field. As a photographer you have plenty of room to take risks, and yet for the most part what we see is pretty repetitive, formulaic even. It seems as though there are a limited number of fashion photographers prepared to take risks. We have found a few who dare. Judge for yourself.

www.knotan.com Knotan rocks. Base and stylish at the same time. We take the rough with the smooth and let the weird facial expressions slide to enjoy these beautiful photos.

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www.martinestig.com In the artists own words, ‘authentic and voyeuristic’ photography. She also ventures beyond fashion photography, for example the condom dress series she did for World Aids day.

www.fredvantslot.nl Raw, light and full of movement, each photo tells a story – or at least poses a question for the viewer. Exciting work with a classic character.


www.liselottehabets.nl Fresh imagery with a sprinkling of humor in both fashion photography as well as other fields. A stylish series featuring defiant looking models.

www.derricksantini.com When Derrick was finding his way in reportage work he quickly found himself in the realm of minimal portrait photography. Go on!

www.rikkikasso.com The Brooklyn based Kasso periodically runs out of space on his memory card in Tokyo. Hotels, naked girls, cigarettes and sex toys – a consistently interesting mix of soul and sleaze.

www.quocvo.nl He studied at the Amsterdam Fashion Institute, specializing in visual culture and philosophy. This formed the basis for Duy’s narrative fashion photography and polished work.

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13 ‘Lounge Lizard’ Life As a Night Porter. © Chris Shaw. March/April at HUP Gallery Amsterdam

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Š Miyako Ishiuchi, courtesy Michael Hoppen Gallery (see page 120)

The GUP Guide 15 countries 70 cities 20 museums 100+ photo galleries 109


Jan 10 - Jul 7

© Angela Gorgas - Martin Amis

Martin Amis and Friends Angela Gorgas national portrait gallery St. Martin’s Place London WC2H 0HE T: +44 20 73 12 2463 www.npg.org.uk

These evocative black and white portraits of Martin Amis provide an intimate document of the literary and artistic circles in which he and the photographer moved in the late 1970’s. Taken in London and Paris the photographs feature literary and social figures including Ian McEwan, Christopher Hitchens, Kingsley Amis, James Fenton, Pat Kavanagh and Candia McWilliam. After being in the photographer’s private collection for almost 30 years these photographs are now on show, offering us a unique insight into the world of Amis and his friends.

Jan 23 - Mar 6

Ghosts of The Faithful Departed David Creedon

photofusion 17a Electric Lane London SW9 8LA T: +44 20 7738 5774 www.photofusion.org

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© David Creedon

Creedon photographed some of the many abandoned houses throughout Ireland between 2005 and 2007. The majority of the inhabitants of these once poor rural homesteads fled Ireland’s dire poverty during the mass emigration in the1950’s. It has been estimated that between 1949 and 1989 more than 800,000 people were forced to leave Ireland by dire circumstances. Emigration peaked in 1955 when 55,000 young people left the shores of their homeland. According to the 1959 census the population of the country had fallen to 2.8 million – the lowest on record.


Jan 16 - May 3

Four Fashion Exhibitions

ICP 1133 Av. of the Americas New York, NY 10036 T: +1 212 857 0000 www.icp.org

The ICP wont’ be leaving us out in the cold this winter as they fervently organize four fashion related exhibitions. Edward Steichen takes centre stage with his visual narration ‘In High Fashion, the Conde Nast Years, 1923–1937’. Then there’s another exhibition where the most innovative fashion photography of recent times will be shown and the exhibition ‘This is Not a fashion Photo’ featuring less ‘mainstream’ fashion photography. The fourth exhibition will show the once lost archive of Hungarian photographer Martin Munkacsi who experimented with moving models. Exiting stuff. 125


Photograph Š Helen Levitt. March 6 - May 5.


GUP #018 - Fashion