PEOPLE | POLITICS | CULTURE | STYLE
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We all harbor a favorite quality about living in Guam, one that is ours we cherish and celebrate. Throughout the last four years, GU has been dedicated to delivering a product that speaks to Guam as well as properly communicates it. Since our inaugural issue, we have received reader feedback, which we encourage and appreciate. Nobody knows our island better than our readers who have been submitting ideas, suggesting features, sending us photos and sharing support. Now more than ever, we want you to tell us what we should print. GU is evolving. We have changed our format and made a few additions, and our new format requires contribution from you. When you see these icons, it means we are calling out for submissions. The “paper” icon means we are seeking writing submissions and the “film roll” icon invites photographers to send in their best shots.
Have you ever wanted to contribute to GU? Are there topics or photos you are eager to see featured in print? Do you want to share your personal style? Well, GU wants to publish it. In our new format, we invite you to contribute your part. submit@GUmagazine.com
In this issue Features
26.EVERYTHING YOU’VE ALWAYS WANTED TO KNOW BUT WERE AFRAID TO ASK: 20 QUESTIONS WITH THE ARCHBISHOP Questions have gnawed at the logic of Guam’s believers since the inception of thought. Here are a few, finally answered
42.LEGACY | Shannon Murphy, daughter of Guam’s favorite journalist, Joe Murphy, recollects his lifelong career in print news while friends remember personal and professional experiences after his passing
38.MAN’S BEST FRIEND ASTRAY | A harsh look at the statistical reality of Guam’s stray dog population and a call to action for conscientious friends of animals
44.EAT | Feast your eyes on GU’s new food and beverage department in which we feature the myriad varieties of steak at Red/Colors Restaurant, how-to’s on proper grilling methods and new reader submission briefs, “Dish of the Moment” and “Lunch Plate of the Moment”
10.HISTORY + CULTURE | Alongside the historical feature, “The Cult of Virginity,” find new additions to GU’s humanities department including a photo gallery of historical images, an important quote pulled from the past and a story on Guampedia.com 14.ARTS & ARTISTS | As third-generation Chamorro musician Rose Laguana wraps her tour with shows in Guam and prepares for a new album release, she shares her philosophy as a perpetual student of music. GU’s new art and design department, devoted to local art, music and literature, invites readers to be a part of it all whether by submitted artwork, fiction, essay or photography 19.TRAVEL | In the inaugural reader-submission department, Dr. Ron Kobayashi and Sheila Kobayashi chronicle a recent trip to the Mentawai Islands, Jeremy Warren shares his travel photos of Cozumel, Mexico and we are treated to Publisher Augustin Flores’s 5 Places. 34.OUTSIDE | In this reorganized department, take a weekend walk to Tarzan Falls, find out how all those giant snails got here and see the first fish to be featured in the new “Caught” section (and submit your catch of the day for the next issue!)
52.MIX | This St. Patrick’s Day found Jameson Irish Whiskey to be the life of the party at Horse & Cow and The Venue while Wines of the World were featured Friday nights at The Point. 58.SPIRIT OF THE MOMENT | The new flavors of Tequila Rose have arrived in Guam! Sample Tequila Rose Cocoa Cream and Tequila Rose Java at your favorite bar or take rich comfort in the Original Strawberry 62.STYLE | Looks to kill and dangerous curves in this issue’s fashion photo spread. Get caught in the crossfire! THE BEST OF GUAM WINNER’S CIRCLE | GU’s readers voted them the Best of Guam 2008! Throughout this issue, read all about why they won and who they are
Thanks to loyal readership and the confidence of advertisers, GU enjoyed its place as Guam’s bestselling lifestyle magazine for more than three years. The challenges introduced to and progress made on our island in 2009 have prompted GU to make some important changes that better include the community in the creative process. While we maintain the vivid, artistic look and feel that placed the magazine on coffee tables across the island, GU invites readers to actively contribute to the content, creating an illuminating and reader-friendly publication, meaningful to all members of our community. We at GU are excited about the changes taking place within the magazine as well as on our island and we look forward to publishing the varied perspectives of each and every one of our readers. We hope that you will be encouraged to share with us your ideas, your words, your artwork and inspiration. We also hope that you will enjoy this, the first issue of the new GU. We feature an interview with Archbishop Anthony Apuron in which he answers some questions that have been circling the island’s Catholic community for awhile. Also in this issue are an article on Guam’s ever-increasing stray dog population, a beautifully photographed travel piece on surfing in the Mentawai Islands and an interview with musician Rose Laguana of The Dot-Dot-Dots. Be sure to check out our new web format at GUmagazine.com, where you can view an exact page-by-page online version of each issue. Enjoy! Maya Alonso
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History & Culture FEATURE: The Cult of Virginity + Guampedia SUB_DEPARTMENTS: THE WAY WE WERE + SAID An issue-by-issue dose of Guam’s distinctive, colorful history and cultural adaptations
The Cult of Virginity WORDS: MAYA ALONSO
The introduction of chastity to the ancient Chamorro people by the Spanish Christian missionaries
t is nearly impossible to keep from recoiling when reading the romantic and sexual practices of the ancient Chamorro people. Anthropologically, one should keep an objective distance. But raised in a Christian society—as we all were, if nothing else, exposed—it’s hard enough to keep from blushing. Dr. Lawrence Cunningham, expert on ancient Chamorro history, whose research and sources (speciﬁcally in his article, “Pre-Christian Chamorro Courtship and Marriage Practices Clash with Jesuit Teaching” in the 2005 edition of Guam History: Perspectives, Vol. 2) were consulted for this piece, stresses that these practices occurred during pre-Christian times and readers should bear in mind that things have changed a great deal. The cult of virginity, as we have been abiding for millennia, did not exist in the ancient Chamorro culture. Rather than regarded sentimentally, as a gift to have saved for one’s future spouse, being undesirable enough to have remained a virgin past the advent of sexual maturity—most likely menarche—was thought at the time to be shameful. Sexual practices at dormitories where unmarried men lived was encouraged; a young lady invited to a position at these guma uritaos was considered positive not only for the
“It is difficult to imagine a mother encouraging her young daughter to engage in sex with such wantonness. But the desire of a mother for her daughter’s happiness and pleasure is evident …”
young men who would no doubt enjoy her company, but also to the young lady, whose experiences there would provide her with the knowledge she would use to fulﬁll her future partner or spouse. Something I haven’t found in the history books but seems a most important factor here: a young lady, free from sexually negative labels, uninhibited by fear of ever being described as “a woman of a certain persuasion,” will acquire enough experience to become sexually fulﬁlled herself. This philosophy can be observed in the song sung by mothers to encourage daughters to join the bachelors at the guma uritao, while the candid, unabashed language is indicative of the Chamorros’ equally candid and unabashed attitudes toward sex: Go out, young tease, and be eaten! Because now, if you deliver yourself over like an afternoon snack, you will be savored. Because when it is later, you will be frustrated in your expectations. And if you guard yourself, you will regret it. It is difﬁcult to imagine a mother encouraging her young daughter to engage in sex with such wantonness. But the desire of a mother for her daughter’s happiness and pleasure is evident in the second line of the song. The third line expresses the relatively modern belief that one must “sample the goods” before one makes a lifelong commitment. And the fourth line certainly does not prescribe a daughter engage in sexual relations with just
anyone for the above purposes—only the ones to whom she is actually attracted. The Chamorros are often described by foreign as “barbarous,” especially in regard to their sexual behaviors and proclivities. But taking just a slightly different perspective, it can be regarded rather as being in touch with one of the greatest physical gifts we have been bestowed— without all the shameful, dirty, seedy attachments with which human fear and detachment has burdened it. Nevertheless, the Christian missionaries were so thoroughly shocked by the practice, all guma uritao were ofﬁcially ordered destroyed in 1680. The island of Guam and these cultural, historical practices were made a mockery in Marie Claire magazine over a decade ago when the concept and practice of the men’s houses were grossly misinterpreted. Certainly, the Christianization of Guam and her current colonial power, The United States of America, has instilled in the Chamorros an adherence to more orthodox, “civilized” sexual practices, including the observance of female viriginity as being of the highest virtue. •
History & Culture // 011
The Way We Were
A photo gallery of historical images of Guam: We are pleased to welcome reader submissions from personal collections. Please e-mail high resolution images + captions to submit@GUmagazine.com
Inspiring, insightful, intriguing or comical quotes from Guam history
“They keep peace, love each other, and care for one another. Yet, they are not Christians as we are ... In truth, Brother Sancho, these people, whom we call barbaros, are naturally so good in some ways that their conduct will serve as the standard against which the Lord God will judge us all on Judgment Day.” —Fray Juan Pobre, 1602
012 // History & Culture
Look No Further:Guampedia.com WORDS: JOAN MUNA AGUON | PHOTO: VICTOR CONSAGA
As the Internet has found its way into an ever-increasing amount of homes and schools, children and adults alike are turning to it more frequently than ever for both casual and in-depth research. A Guam-produced and Guam-managed online scholarly encyclopedia, with a continuously growing amount of information, will ensure that the island is not left out of global digitization.
n ingenious tool designed to enrich the minds of those wanting to know more about Guam—from culture, language, history, religion and other areas— has surfaced. Guampedia.com, an online encyclopedia about the island of Guam, was founded by the Guam Humanities Council, launching in April 2008. As of the end of March 2009, the site had about 800 unique visitors a day and more than three million hits, with visitors as far as South Africa and Ireland. The project was established in 2000 when the National Endowment for the Humanities began offering grants to create state online encyclopedias around the country. Only a few humanities councils took on the daunting challenge and Guampedia was one of the ﬁrst in the country to go online. Guampedia is being developed in cooperation with the University of Guam and many other community institutions, organizations and government agencies to include the Department of Chamorro Affairs, the Richard F. Taitano Micronesian Area Research Center at UOG, the Guam Museum, the Guam Public Library, the Department of Parks and Recreation, Division of Historic Resources, the Archdiocese of Agana and Micronesian Seminar in Pohnpei. Funding for Guampedia came from the National Endowment for the Humanities, Guam Preservation Trust, Bank of Guam, Department of Interior, the Guam Council on the Arts and Humanities Agency, Guam Visitor’s Bureau and various other community groups. The information published on the site, to date, is beyond fascinating. The articles range from ancient cultural practices to everyday events to even the post-war era, a part of Guam’s history that I myself was not familiar with. Through peer-reviewed and factchecked entries and accompanying media that includes everything from archived magazine articles, movies and photos, Guampedia provides an important
educational and informational resource for Guam teachers and schoolchildren, for Chamorros living abroad, for visitors to our island, those who want a richer understanding of our island and its people and most recently those who are set to come to Guam as a result of the impending military buildup. Guampedia currently has about 550 entries on various topics. More than 100 people have been a part of this incredible project in some way: doing research, writing, peer reviewing or fact checking or copy editing the entries and media. Another 1,000 entries are planned and will be added to the website as they are completed. A whole section on the arts of Guam was developed late last year. It describes traditional, contemporary and performing arts and was developed with a grant from CAHA. Users can read about tattoo, dance, chant, poetry and Chamorro music. Photos and video were added to the entries so that users can have a fuller understanding of the Guam art scene. Valerie Maigue, a former Guam resident, says she used Guampedia recently and was impressed with how much information she was able to obtain. “My daughter recently started school in Oregon where she was tasked to do a project about where she came from,” explained Maigue. Maigue was worried, thinking her daughter wasn’t going to be able to get all of the information she needed. “I went ahead and searched the website and, sure enough, I found everything I needed!” exclaimed Maigue. This is exactly
the type of reaction Managing Editor Shannon Murphy wants to hear. Murphy, along with Assignment Editor Tanya Mendiola and Media Archivist Nathalie Pereda, has worked diligently on this project for several years. Indeed, Guampedia is an important educational tool that was long overdue. There was a need for a better understanding throughout the world about Guam. Murphy said the beauty of Guampedia is that historical information will never be lost and is always readily accessible. “It can serve as a teaching tool,” said Murphy. Film projects Murphy said the team is truly excited about the ﬁlm portion of the website. “We have a dozen video clips up right now and are working to add 50 or so more. We are going to keep adding video as we develop entries and can have as many as three videos (for a maximum of ﬁve minutes each) per entry,” explained Murphy. Guampedia users, for example, can watch a belambautuyan player demonstrate how to make the ancient Chamorro instrument. Other video is used to illustrate history such as a clip from Herman Crisostomo’s 1984 “Guam Paradise Island” showing Pale San Vitores baptizing children.
Chloe and Rain Babauta show respect in a scene from Puntan yan Fu’una.
May/June 2009 // 013 Besides adding existing video to entries, the team plans to make about seven of their own videos for the site in 2009, like the one that can be seen now on the home page, “I Tinituhon”. I Tinituhon tells the creation myth of the Chamorro people, where Puntan and Fu’una create the land and the people. According to Murphy, Annette Donner, a former journalist who had previously directed a documentary for the 50th Anniversary of Guam’s liberation, has assumed the task of making Guam-produced ﬁlms accessible through Guampedia. “We had her develop a database of all the ﬁlms in Guam that was to include documentaries, student ﬁlm projects, TV specials, MARC works, public library, the Archdiocese of Agana, Department of Parks and Recreation and CAHA,” said Murphy. Video clips would have synopses and with these, a list of suggested resources for readers once their interest has been sparked. “We encourage visitors to head back to the libraries, back to the Micronesian Area Research Center. We want
people to use Guampedia as a resource tool and intrigue them enough to go to the museums and library and seek deeper knowledge,” said Murphy. A ﬁlm by Therese Crisostomo, which features Jesus Crisostomo and Manuel Quichocho skillfully crafting a belimbautuyan, an indigenous musical instrument, by hand, is available on Guampedia. These two master players were ﬁlmed 20 years ago and are both now deceased. I had the opportunity to view the ﬁlm and I watched in awe as I saw the elderly Chamorro man pick out the wood, carve it with such patience and skill and play this instrument that only a handful of people still know how to play. Other videos in Guampedia are short clips from a ﬁlm that was produced in 1983 by Herman Crisostomo about Padre San Vitores and the legend of Sirena. The ﬁlm, called “Guam Paradise Island,” is too lengthy to be shown in its entirety but Crisostomo allowed Guampedia to show various clips to illustrate these entries. Also in the works are new video shorts,
which will be of an instructional nature. “These clips will be about three to ﬁve minutes in length and will cover everything from coconut husking, talaya (ﬁsh net) throwing and even basket weaving,” explained Murphy. The team is currently seeking funding for these new videos. Looking forward to the future As old video clips are restored and digitized, a tedious process, expect even more ﬁlms and topics to be added to the website. Now that Guampedia is a full-ﬂedged entity, it has left the Guam Humanities Council and moved to the University of Guam. Its ofﬁces are located in House No. 3 Dean’s Circle, along with the Micronesian Language Institute, in afﬁliation with the entity. “The website is meant to give a sense of place and provide for cultural pride,” conceded Murphy. A local project with global reach designed for anyone with an interest in learning about Guam—Guampedia is an important educational resource. •
free pool at Ball Scratchers!
All night, Sunday thru Thursday Ph: 646-2257 • On Hotel Row in Tumon next to Club G-Spot
Arts & Artists
FEATURE: ROSE LAGUANA SUB_DEPARTMENTS: STROKES + SCRIBE + SHOOT GUâ€™s new Arts & Artists department, devoted to local art, music and literature, will also feature a themed contest in every issue to which readers can submit their works of art for prizes that will vary issue to issue.
Arts & Artists // Feature // 025
Rose Laguana: Musical Sage WORDS: JAC PERRY // PHOTOS: STEVE HARDY
usic lovers, aﬁcionados and novices are fervently aware of the signiﬁcance and authority of the lead guitarist. Often they are the band’s motivating force and are synonymous with the band’s title. The great ones emit their talent, modesty and character with subtle divinity and their very nature can astound us. Such is the case of the young, very impressive, mature-minded, Rose Laguana, notable lead guitarist of the rock/ punk/power-pop band, Dot Dot Dot that gathered national attention on FOX’s The Next Great American Band where they made it to the top ﬁve. Laguana moved to the States before she realized she would be where she is today. “I didn’t move to the States speciﬁcally for music at ﬁrst, but it turned out to be a great opportunity to pursue my musical career,” she said. Laguana is the granddaughter of the Chamorro jazz bassist, Carlos Cruz Laguana and daughter of well-known, local jazz guitarist and educator, Carlos Laguana. “My father is my biggest inspiration. I studied classical guitar with him; it is one of my passions. He taught me more than just how to play the guitar. With learning how to play came the understanding of what music really means—that it’s all personal preference and that the patience and discipline one applies to their art is a goal in itself,” Laguana expressed. Laguana’s regard and artistic attitude toward music is genuine and reverent. A refreshing resurgence not common in young musicians of today. Hers is not a goal of fanfare but rather a sage-like approach to cultivating her talent as her ultimate goal. “I hope to always grow as a musician and to continuously learn as a student. I will always be a student of music. You learn something new every day, no matter how experienced you are,” she said. “Everyone in this world has a unique way of learning and a particular amount of time to learn, one must be able to adapt to that sensitive time frame. Any teacher or musician has the potential to be great. A teacher who still studies their
art and a musician that is always willing to learn have the gifts necessary to achieve greatness,” she said. Her discernibly unwearied way of thinking and patience toward reﬁning her talent and skill demonstrate Laguana’s ability to accomplish a superior level of musicianship. Her traditional philosophies can be likened to the remarkable legacies of the most renowned artists of all time. Professionally, Laguana has plans to continue and further her success and has ﬁrm beliefs in the future. “If you really want something and you do everything you can to work at getting it, you will succeed in the end. Perception is reality and the more you see something in your head the more it becomes your reality.” Dot Dot Dot falls under a particular and rather speciﬁc genre category, but Laguana expresses, “A love and respect for every genre of music. I enjoy every second of playing, even if a song doesn’t move me as a whole, there’s usually a small part in the song that affects me and gets me every time.” Laguana believes music trends come in facets and intervals and that the genres of music in history repeat themselves, afﬁrming her belief in the sound of Dot Dot Dot. “Musicians have personal phases
when writing. Most of the time, emotionally driven. Sometimes you feel angry or ecstatic, so you write songs that reveal those feelings. People are inspired by emotion in music and respond to it well.” Rose Laguana and Dot Dot Dot paid a visit to Guam in April as part of their extensive tour and are are working on a new album to be released Summer 2009. Their inaugural album is available on iTunes. •
GU // Scribe
Scribe: Submissions Wanted
In each issue, GU will call on aspiring writers to submit their 900-word-or-less work of fiction or essay, to be themed per issue.
Next issue’s theme: Thirst ➜Specs Word count: 900 words max. Acceptable file formats: MS Word, Mac Text Edit, Windows Notepad Deadline: June 5, 2009 submit@GUmagazine.com
GU // Shoot
will be a submission-based photo spread in GU’s Arts & Artists Department, hosted by Josie Moyer of latitude13.com. Professional photographer and designer, Moyer will theme Shoot each issue and invite shutterbug hopefuls to submit their appropriate shots.
Next issue’s theme: Self-Portrait ➜Specs Acceptable file formats: high resolution .jpg or .tif Deadline: June 5, 2009 submit@GUmagazine.com
your NEXT American Idol . . . announced during the finale shows Wednesday May 20 & Thursday May 21 and only on FOX 6 Guam!
FEATURE: MEET ME IN THE MENTS… SUB_DEPARTMENTS: SHOOTCASE + 5 PLACES + ESSAY Beautifully photographed cities in foreign nations with stories told from local perspectives—GU’s Travel department remains Guam’s distinctive destinations read
Travel // Feature
Meet me in the Ments… WORDS: SHEILA + RON KOBAYASHI, M.D. | PHOTOS: TIMOTIUS WAU
A Surfers’ Medical Association adventure and a father-son surﬁng safari rolled into one awesome barrel of a ten-day adventure DAY ONE Four different airplanes, an hour bus ride, 12 grueling hours on a boat in dark, turbulent waters, no less. I was feeling sick—really sick! It’s been over 32 hours of traveling, thousands of miles away, 100 miles off the west coast of Sumatra and in the middle of nowhere, we arrive, ﬁnally! Dawn breaks and I’m in awe—in utter disbelief of what appears in front me. Every surfer’s dream: the most perfect, razor-edged waves, like the ones you used to doodle on your notebooks in high school. Waves. Lots of waves; brilliant turquoise-colored waters. At dusk the skies were bright red and orange as though ablaze. It’s surreal. The ultimate surf destination and undeniably the most beautiful place I’d ever seen. I hear nothing but the roaring sounds of the ocean, one wave after another. It was like watching an orchestra in perfect unison. I must be in heaven, I thought, or maybe somewhere at the end of the rainbow? Close—I’m in the Mentawai Islands. THE MENTAWAI ISLANDS The Mentawai Islands are located approximately 100 miles off the west coast of Sumatra, Indonesia’s northernmost and largest island, and the port city of Padang, launching point for Mentawai surf charters. There are four main islands in the archipelago, with numerous smaller islands surrounding these. The recent discovery of world class surf in the Mentawai archipelago and subsequent exposure of images of the region in
international surf media has pushed the archipelago to the brink of an explosion of surﬁng tourism development. Foreign tourism operators in the area are, however, aware of the potential for negative impacts upon the local environment, culture, social fabric and economy if tourism is allowed to develop unchecked. For this reason, attempts are being made from within the surﬁng tourism industry, as well as from local government, to manage surﬁng tourism development. In an effort to minimize the exploitation of this sovereign area and to build sustainable tourism, surf travel is nearly completely restricted to authorized surf charter companies. LOOKING BACK A year ago, Jim Murphy, longtime surfer, ﬁsherman, water-enthusiast and ER doctor invited me on this surf trip, his second visit to Mentawais. Myself? I’m an adopted local of Guam, a native of Santa Cruz, CA. My younger years were spent as a surf board shaper, snow skier, surfer and jet skier; a self-professed “waterman.” I met Jim here over 16 years ago, both of us having many things in common, especially a passion for surﬁng. Soon we would set off on the adventure of a lifetime. This one in particular had a personal meaning for both of us. We were to embark on this journey with our sons, both living in California, to experience a surf safari unlike any other. My oldest son, Sean, was born and raised in Santa Cruz. He’s visited Guam numerous times
since the early ‘90s and has surfed the local waters. Jim has even deeper roots in Guam, having lived here off-and-on since 1975. His son, Alex, now a resident of Irvine, California, grew up on the island until the age of 10. SURFER’S MEDICAL ASSOCIATON Jim and I are members of the Surfers’ Medical Association. The SMA is an international organization of healthcare professionals who frequently treat surfers as patients and who are surfers themselves. We promote research, training and education regarding the trauma and disease factors which affect surfers and are dedicated to helping all surfers lead healthier lives. Each year a conference is held at a different surﬁng destination. The Association is committed to community service, especially in testing and implementing models of healthcare delivery for underdeveloped regions where surﬁng has an impact. In addition to surﬁng physicians, scientists and other licensed healthcare professionals, the organization includes “barefoot doctors,” ordinary surfers who have sufﬁcient training and skills to be effective ﬁrst-responders in remote locations where medical facilities are not readily accessible. GETTING THERE Upon our planned meeting in Padang, Sumatra, six surfers from California, the two of us from Guam, one from Puerto Rico, one from Virginia and one from
020 // Travel Feature // Meet me in the Ments…
Australia, were greeted by a transport that drove us an hour away to meet our crew of four, which included our trip chef, Lee. He told us we would be treated to three gourmet meals a day, something so unexpected given our current locus in the middle of nowhere. We boarded our charter boat, the Sanssouci 2 and set off on a 12-hour boat ride 100 miles off the west coast of Sumatra. A number of us, green with seasickness from the turbulent waters, wind and rain, were eventually overcome by the rocking of the boat and the steady drone of its engines. TESTING THE WATERS Knowing nothing of our group or each other’s surﬁng abilities, Captain Phil takes us to a small surf break, Rubber Ducky’s. He utters to us in his Australian tongue, “A bit of a warm-up, eh?” We, the “double-nickels” in the group (55 and over) start paddling out one by one. Shortly thereafter, we venture off to a place called Riﬂes, a well-known area for intense waves. We ﬁnd about 25 other surfers there. The surf in this particular spot is not for the faint of heart, the water is shallow and the thunderous waves, “sick.” Inevitably, on the ﬁrst day of our trip, the SMA group spent most of the afternoon tending to injured surfers from the other charters. Every hour or so, our captain would receive a radio call from the other boats seeking medical supplies and aid. All of us, avid surfers, met one another for the ﬁrst time in the Ments. Although none of us in our group were pro surfers, we were professionals in one form or another. I had brought some su-
ture kits with me, anticipating a day like this one. Most of the injuries were lacerations to the head, arms, legs (several needing to be sutured or stapled), severe scrapes and bruising from being thrashed into the reef and a possible dislocated shoulder for one not so lucky bloke. Without the availability of an X-ray, he had to travel 12 hours back to Padang by ferry, which only runs in this area every three to four days. MEETING THE LOCALS It’s 6:00 a.m. on day three and I sit out on the deck, watching children go by in a ﬁnely hewn dugout canoe, heading for school. More visits by the locals, coming our way selling art pieces, nautilus shells and handcrafted woodcarvings; all of them so friendly and amused by our pursuit of the perfect waves in their native islands. Many of us on board make our purchases to bring back home as souvenirs. During the next several days they come back to us with a formal letter of solicitation for gasoline, pleading their case of high gas prices, low wages and the need of the fuel for their livelihoods. Captain Phil gladly ﬁlls their containers with ﬁve gallons of gas. I lost track of how many canoes came our way. THE ISLANDS AND THE SURF Captain Phil would be up early, checking the swells to have us out 6:00 a.m. We’d drag ourselves out of bed, grab a bite to eat or a cup of java and then toss our epoxies overboard to start our day. Each daybreak began for me with a simultaneous rush of anxiety and tranquil-
ity. There was so much to take in that the occasional disconnect would set in due to sensory overload. The mystical aura about the islands was captivating and the ocean’s turquoise waters, so pristine. The land was ﬁlled with lush green vegetation and the coast lined with coconut trees as far as the eye could see. There were so many islands around us, each one of them ringed with brightly colored reefs. Everywhere we looked, it seemed the reef had a perfect right or left peeling off of it. The waves were ﬂawless, like life-sized paintings we were able to enter and play in. There was every wave imaginable: some lefts, some rights, some of them all lined up, some with long, peeling barrels that would roll endlessly. Other spots were steep and hollow; we’d pass some areas with seemingly perfect waves, only to ﬁnd that no one ever surfs there because up ahead are even better ones. Our Australian-based crew, two of them native Indonesians, are there for eight months out of the year. They knew exactly which spots to take us. Along the way there were hundreds of places that we reluctantly passed up—pristine, glassy, perfect. I imagined the exhilaration of discovering the Holy Grail. When it came time to turn in, we felt guilty having to leave the waves empty. But after a day of surﬁng we quickly discover that riding waves of this caliber is not without consequence. You forget how thorough an exercise surﬁng is until every part of your body aches, muscles sore for days, but we did it all over again the following morning, without hesitation. Some of the surf breaks we surfed at
GU Travel // May/Jun 09 // 021
DR. JIM MURPHY
were: Riﬂes, Ebay, Beng-Beng (named for an Indonesian chocolate bar), Churches Lefts, Rubber Ducky’s, Iceland, Lance’s Right, Schoolyards, Napusi, Chubby’s, Four Bobs, Churches Right, John Candy’s, Timmy’s, Little Malibu and an unknown spot which we christened Doc’s Reef. Three of these spots were named by our local Indonesian crew member, Timmy Wau. For nearly two weeks we surfed our hearts out, until we could surf no more.
My lecture was on shark attacks and ﬁrst aid for the ﬁrst responders. Not too many were fond of this topic. A cardiologist from Puerto Rico talked about Trends in Acute Treatments for Myocardial Infarctions, commonly known as heart attacks. Another ER doctor gave a Power Point presentation on “Changing Emergency Room Medicine Treatments.” By 8:00 p.m. we’d be tucked into our bunks, passed out from exhaustion.
Lectures and case studies At dusk every day, we would ﬁnd a calm spot to anchor and recap the day’s events via slide show from the crew’s photos. Our evenings would end with one of us presenting a lecture or case study on our respective ﬁeld of medicine. Jim’s case study, Emergency Medicine, was on rhabdomyolysis from trauma, in layman’s terms, kidney failure due to near-drowning or a breakdown of the muscles due to a lack of oxygen.
ALL GOOD THINGS COME TO AN END In mid-September 2008 we were in a dreamlike state, captivated by the perfection of waves so generously offered to us by the surf gods or Neptune himself. It’s funny how none of us ever talked or cared about the underlying dangers that surrounded us, our own fears or Mother Nature’s fury. Instead we focused on her beauty and what she was willing to give us for those 10 incredible days. Through the years, the sport of surﬁng has
evolved, more glamorized now than ever. I say, keep it simple, respect the waves and in return Mother Nature gives back more than you could ever ask for. We thanked the crew, bid farewell to the SMA group and said our goodbyes to our sons. Jim and I returned to Guam on the 4:00 a.m. ﬂight from Manila, weary and tired from lack of sleep. We checked in, boards in tow, our faces visibly beaten by the sun and legs wobbly with landsickness from being on the boat for such an extended period. Nonetheless, we were content. I called Sean the following day to see if he made it back home safely. We spoke for just a few minutes, reiterating how glad we were to be back home and reunited with our families and then pondered silently on the phone. We knew the extent we had to go through to get there, not to mention the magnitude of it all. As father and son, our experience in the Ments was indescribable; a once in a lifetime adventure. •
022 // Travel Feature // Meet me in the Ments… TRAVEL TIPS DOCUMENTS: A current passport. If your passport is near expiration, you will need to travel within a 6-month period from that date. ESSENTIALS: Pack light. You only have a bunk space in the boat cabin. I brought with me all sorts of medications: Dramamine, antibiotics, cough and cold meds, Pepto-Bismol tablets, antacids, Tylenol, just in case. Daily essentials like sun block, rash guards, a hat and a good book, etc. SURF BOARDS: Most airlines allow 2 surfboards per bag. You can opt to bring more but the fees will get you. Each airline had a different fee for the surfboards. Continental allotted 2 boards per bag with a ﬂat fee of $100.00, whereas Philippine Airlines charged $5 to $6USD per pound. Log-on to the airlines’ respective websites for more information. GETTING THERE: Guam-PhilippinesSingapore-Jakarta-Padang (Sumatra), Indonesia (all on different airlines); onehour bus ride to the ports; 12-hour boat trip to the Mentawai Islands. STAYING: There are a number of charter boats to stay on in the Mentawai islands. In this particular trip we opted for the Sanssouci 2 charter boat, which has chartered several Surfers’ Medical Association trips. Land camps are also available on different islands, but you are limited to certain areas. WHEN TO GO: High season for travel to the Mentawai islands and the most ideal surf season is from March through October. BOAT SPECIFICS: Length 24.4 meters,
Full speed 11.5 knots, Dinghy 4.7 meters. Yamaha 40 HP Contact with the outside world: Via Inmarsat Mini M Telephone system with a specialized Automatic Marine Aerial allowing 24-hour communication by telephone or fax. PLANNING AHEAD: It took one year for the SMA to plan this trip to the Mentawai Islands. Logistical preparations included the boat charter, connecting ﬂight reservations, reservations for hotel accommodations for overnight stays along the way. BUDGET AIRFARE: Guam-Philippines-SingaporeJakarta-Padang (Sumatra), Indonesia: $1500-1620 MEALS AND ACCOMMODATIONS: $275 to $300 per person, per night onboard the Sanssouci 2, includes one-hour airport bus transfer, 12-hour boat trip to the Mentawai Islands and three meals a day. The charter boat is an Australian Registered vessel that can accommodate 10 to 12 guests plus four crew members.
THE SURFERS’ MEDICAL ASSOCIATION VILLAGE PROJECTS In the mid-1990s, the SMA extended its humanitarian efforts to Momi, another village with many workers at Tavarua. Interventions that worked well at Nabila were applied at Momi also with similar accomplishments. Not only have both villages beneﬁted, but we in the SMA have learned so much over the many years of trial and error about how to effectively add value to an existing native healthcare system in a culturally sensitive way. We are currently exploring ways to extend the SMA approach beyond Fiji to other underdeveloped areas impacted by surﬁng. During our conferences in the Mentawais, we have been partnering with Surf Aid International to evolve malaria control procedures that are effective for the indigenous people. We have been invited by the government of the Maldives to assist them in improving mental health and ER care in these atolls.
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BY: MAYA ALONSO + AUGUSTIN FLORES
CITY: SHANGHAI, CHINA China’s largest city, Shanghai is ideal for the traveler hoping for the excitement of a fast-paced getaway. With chic restaurants, lush gardens, a spectacular museum and the best shopping in China, metrophiles will find all they hoped for out of their cosmopolitan vacation in Shanghai. Accommodation Budgets (per night): $8–15 (Dorm/Hostel), $50–100 (Mid-range), $100–250 (Deluxe)
ECO/ADVENTURE: MILFORD TRACK, FIORDLAND NATIONAL PARK, NEW ZEALAND New Zealand’s famed four-day hike, known among adventure travelers as “The Finest Walk in the World,” treats hikers to gorgeous, sweeping views of valleys, mountains and waterfalls and a vigorous though gradual workout that culminates on day three with a 3,000-foot descent over rocky terrain. The 33.5 mile hike is capped off on day four with a relaxing, scenic stroll. Accommodation Budgets (per night): $40 (huts/cabins along route)
RETREAT: BORA BORA, TAHITI This tiny Polynesian island can be circumnavigated by car in a single hour. Beautiful and tranquil as it is, with its famed over-water bungalows and mountain peak, it is one-third the size of the surrounding lagoon, which offers a fantasy of an underwater park, amazing sea life including manta rays and reef sharks and dazzling boat excursions for the world weary in need of a reprieve. Accommodation Budgets (per night): $12–80 (Budget), $80–250 (Mid-range), $500–$1,100 (Deluxe beach resorts)
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK: KIRIBATI 4,045 miles away from us, the world’s day begins in Kiribati, where travelers can enjoy a set of atolls on which cultural and language traditions have been preserved with care. A Pacific destination that can be relished this day and age without mobs of other tourist, the independent nation of Kiribati offers the best in fishing, spearfishing and snorkeling. Accommodation Budgets (per night): $25–50 (Budget), $50–100 (Mid-range), $100–$150 (Deluxe)
EXTENDED EXPERIENCES: STAYANOTHERDAY.ORG (MEKONG REGION) Stayanotherday.org is an initiative established to promote the kind of tourism that gives back to the local communities. Currently working in the Mekong region of Cambodia, Lao and Vietnam, Stayanotherday.org endorses the National Centre of Disabled Persons, in which such persons sell their handicrafts made of Cambodian silk, and The Mekong Tourism Development Project, which provides hospitality training to local communities.
EVERYTHING YOU WANTED TO KNOW BUT WERE AFRAID TO ASK A post-Lenten interview with the overseer of Catholic affairs in Guam finds Archbishop Anthony Apuron revived and tranquil. After a liturgical season of sacrifice and celebration, Archbishop Apuron was ready to tackle the tough questions the Church has been facing worldwide and also to explain some of the issues peculiar to our island’s spiritual life.
INTERVIEW BY: MAYA ALONSO | PHOTOS: ANTHONY TAMAYO JR.
Can you share with us your first inklings or calling to serve God and briefly describe your experiences ascending to Archbishop? It was in the ﬁfth grade. I ﬁgured, at the end of my life, when I ﬁgure an answer to how I lived my life for God, I hoped that God will be merciful to me knowing that I have served the people in the church. And really, I wanted to be a priest and I thought that by just being a priest that would be a better way of being in touch with people, serving them and staying with them. I never dreamt to be a bishop; I was chosen to be a bishop when the late Archbishop submitted my name to the pope, the late Pope John Paul II, who selected me to serve here and then when he died, he appointed me to be the archbishop of Guam. At that time, I was only two years a bishop and was told I was the youngest archbishop in the world at the age of 40, a bishop at the age of 38. I wanted to serve the church and I wanted to serve people. I never expected to be in such a post as ﬁrst being a bishop, serving and working with the late Archbishop Flores, and then when he died, after the beatiﬁcation of Blessed Diego in Rome, I was asked to become the Archbishop, in 1986. Can you explain please how the Catholic Church is structured here in Guam? Every parish has a priest and the priest has the overall responsibility of the life of the church in a particular parish. And every parish has a group of people called parish council members, including
a ﬁnance council member who oversees the ﬁnances of the parish. But everyone operates pretty much on their own, even schools. The priests take care of the spiritual aspect of assuring the masses are said, the sacraments are celebrated, the kids are prepared for ﬁrst communion and conﬁrmation and the babies are prepared for baptism, with the parents and the godparents. It’s a daily operation of trying to run the church, managed locally by individual priests and people who are part of a team. So, too, in the Archdioceses, I have a vicar general and a chancellor, the vicar general is next in line if I am not around and the chancellor is next in line. And then the staff that helps run the Chancery ofﬁce which takes care of the communications coming from each of the parishes and the schools. We communicate with Rome through email or letters. We ﬁll out forms in terms of reporting to Rome how many baptisms occurred, marriages, how many deaths, how many converts—statistical reports. Because Guam and the Archdiocese of Agana is still a missionary church, we are helped ﬁnancially by the Congregation for the Propagation of the Faith. The ﬁnances of the Archdiocese, something comes in from each of the parishes, that helps in the running of the Archdiocese. Can you describe the Archdiocese’s mission and hope for the island? The mission of the Church is the mission of the Archdiocese. We want to continue to preach and teach and evangelize
and help those who have become Catholics, those who have chosen to be Catholics, help them grow in their faith. We hope for the island to continue to really be a Catholic-conscious community. Our hope is that our people will continue to grow in the faith, that the youth also will continue to go in the footsteps of their parents and that we continue to make the church vibrant and alive for generations to come. That is what I seek to do. Can you discuss the growth and evolution of the church here in Guam and how you observe the attitudes of the Catholic population? We have evolved from being animists, before the advent of Christianity, ancestral worshippers. If you’ve seen pictures of early life here in the Marianas, there are times when they’d keep the bones, like the head of a parent for example, inside the house, to remind them of death, perhaps, or that life is not immortal and that we are here for a short time. We’ve evolved into Christianity, we’ve embraced the Catholicism that the missionaries sent here. And yes, we’ve inherited the traditions coming from a Spanish culture and a Spanish faith. But we have tried to develop and include our own culture that continues to grow. Along with that, because of the advent of Westernization, comes also secularization so that, at times, the faith is challenged. From an attitude that we really believe the Lord provides and can give us a sense of security and prosperity, more and more people think that they can live so
we moved, within that week, the Carmelites told us that there are benefactors in the States, they want to remain anonymous, they want to give you the whole $2M. It did not cost the diocese one penny … And for all of that I got so much criticism.”
independently, even of God—that they want to seek their own security in what they can do in their own talents. Somehow they feel independent of any need for God. So some of the attitudes are changing simply because of this exposure. And with the Internet, with the media, with modern communication, many times, that’s the picture being put forth and we’re deluged with it and sometimes people are confused: “Can I still trust in a God who seems so removed?” or “I see suffering out there, poverty, and nothing seems to be happening, it’s not being addressed. Can I continue to put faith and trust in a higher authority, an ideal, that perhaps is not within our grasp?” Sometimes people decide to struggle with their life in their own natural way, rather than turning to the supernatural for answers to the questions and the problems that they see in their life. Can you share with us information on the Neocatechumenal Way and its relationship with the Catholic Church—similarities and differences and the traditional Church’s attitudes toward this movement? The Neocatechumenal Way is a charism that was introduced back in 1968 in Spain. It slowly developed to a number of countries throughout Europe, came to the 028
United States, even through Asia. It’s sort of like the charism of the Franciscans that St. Francis began back in the 1200s when he founded an order to answer to some of the things that the church was not addressing. The Neocatechumenal Way is inviting people to experience the way the Church lived the faith from the primitive church. It’s called a “Way” because before we were pegged with the name Christianity, when Emperor Constantine allowed the Church to grow, the early Christians were called, “Followers of the Way,” which was the way Jesus was pointing. Jesus says, “I am the way, the truth and the life.” And “neocatechumenal,” a new way of being catechized; but really, it’s not. It’s really an ancient way of being catechized. Regarding its relationship with the Catholic church, in 2008, the congregations in Rome approved the statutes governing the Way so that it continues to remain orthodox, so they do not go off on their own because the danger when somebody founds a charism, sometimes they go astray; sometimes they forget the purpose for which they started. The Neocatechumenal Way is always overseen by a priest and two laypeople to make sure that in doing “the Way,” they remain faithful to the traditions of
the Church. The particular characteristic of the Way is they really celebrate and look into the scriptures and celebrate what is called The Word once a week and then they celebrate the Eucharist in a much freer but also in a longer way than just having people come to attend a 45-minute to an hour mass and they really celebrate the liturgies as vibrantly as possible and many of them use the instruments that were used even when the Jews were in diaspora. They are trying to live their Catholic faith the way the church was lived in the early days where after baptism, they continue to come for what is called a teaching, a catechesis, that continues on through life. They are centered and rooted in the Bible, in the sacred scripture, the traditions of the church, they don’t do anything so far out that the Church would tell them it’s forbidden. Their celebrations are a little bit longer than a normal celebration in a parish. For the Way, a lot of times, their celebrations last an hour and a half to two. They sing a lot; in between readings of scripture, somebody is asked to come up and open a possibility for people to interpret the scripture in a way that touches their lives. Then usually, after the gospel, the celebrant gives time for individuals if they wish to speak about the word of God to see if it touches their lives and ﬁnd meaning. They are still part of the Catholic church because the Pope has sanctioned the Neocatechumenal Way as a valid way of conversion for the church even today. Can you discuss how and why the administration at Father Duenas Memorial School was changed or outsourced? The very ﬁrst group that ran the school when they ﬁrst opened back in 1948 under Bishop Baumgartner were the Stigmatine Priests from Boston. And then when they left, the bishop turned to
the Capuchins. They were forced to ﬁnd different priests throughout the years to administer the school. They did so until such time that because of their personnel, they could not handle it so they asked the Marist Brothers, originally from Connecticut, and then when they couldn’t handle it they asked help from the Philippines. Brothers from the Philippines came and managed the school for awhile. Then when it came time for them to leave, I tried to get the Capuchins to take it back but they didn’t have the personnel. I tried to ask the Jesuits but they didn’t have any. I had two different priests, both from the States, hired through an agency and we weren’t happy with them so they only had a year contract. It was Mr. Roth that I went to and asked if he could handle this temporarily until we can ﬁnd somebody and all these years we’ve been searching to see if anyone was available. So in January we invited the Salesians to take on the administration. When they expressed interest, they said they can dedicate at least two people to run the school. But it had always been my dream to maintain Father Duenas being administered by a religious order and they are the order, after 17 years. Can you discuss the Church’s acquisition of the Hotel Accion and the purpose it is now serving? In 1999, I went to a retreat in Rome and toward the end, they asked me if I’d like to open a seminary. Every bishop should try to ﬁnd a way to continue service in the Church, otherwise if you don’t have any priests then the Church is going to die. So I was given that possibility. When the seminary opened in 1999, they were living in what used to be the old minor seminary at Father Duenas school, which is a modular building and really very small even though they gave me 12 seminarians in that year. By 2002, there was a possibility of
purchasing that hotel and our lawyer said, “We can never get this deal if we do not act right away. There are several bidders.” We were the third bidder, the lowest of the bidders. We would need to borrow money from the bank and mortgage it for 30 years—pay maybe $15,000 a month for the next 30 years. We got permission from Rome to extend what was the minor seminary, which would have cost $1.6M and we were going to borrow the money to do that. This opportunity came up and it’s $1.9M so I wrote to Rome that for $300,000 more, we could buy an already-built structure on 20 acres valued at $75M. The building cost $35M so $105M altogether. They wanted to get rid of it for less than $2M. I asked Rome permission to buy that for $1.9M. Then the sellers said they would sell everything in the building (furnishings) for $300,000 more. We negotiated and brought it down to $100,000, which brought the price to $2M even. When I got permission from Rome, we were going to borrow $2M from the Bank of Guam and in fact we paid the ﬁrst installment of $15,000 and we asked the Carmelites to be praying for us for benefactors to help us with this effort. Before we moved, within that week, the Carmelites told us that there are benefactors in the States, they want to remain anonymous, they want to give you the whole $2M. It did not cost the diocese one penny. And for all of that I got so much criticism. And it’s really to help build the clergy. The seminarians come from outside, but when they decide to come, they come to serve the Church here. In 10 years, four priests are ordained. God willing, in November, I’ll ordain four more so that’s almost one priest ordained every year. Before that, we were ordaining one every six years—the Church is going to die if we do not have priests that will really be ordained to help serve the needs of our people.
Can you elaborate on Lenten fasting and abstinence? The only mandatory fasting during Lent is Ash Wednesday and Good Friday. The other Fridays of Lent are optional. Some dioceses require that they be mandatory. It used to be practiced that every Friday was a day of abstinence, in other words, no meat. Fasting means only one full meal per day, during Ash Wednesday and Good Friday. The two other meals should not equal the one meal. The abstinence means no meat on Ash Wednesday and Good Friday. It’s been relaxed because more and more we have instances of people with diabetes or health problems that sometimes it’s hard to impose fasting and abstinence on everyone. Fasting is supposed to be from age 21 to 59 for people who are healthy. The church makes exemptions because of health problems. I still fast and abstain myself, even though I’m 63 now and excused from fasting and abstinence. I do it anyway voluntarily. I’m diabetic, too, but I know what I can eat and how I can observe. If you ﬁnd it hard to fast and abstain, the Church says to ﬁnd other ways of doing penance. In the old days we used to give up going to movies. There are other ways of doing penance; maybe by saying, I’m going to be visiting somebody in the hospital every Friday, even if I don’t know the person. That can be a form of penance. There are other positive things that can be done so a person can continue to practice fasting and abstinence. Can you explain the Church’s position on birth control? The teaching of the church is every sexual act must be open to the transmission of life. The sexual act is meant to be performed by people who are sacramentally married because a married couple is supposed to practice the sexual act as a natural thing. And actually, when they perform the sexual act, it is not a sin—in 029
20 Questions with AAA
the sacrament of matrimony it is not a sin, it is a grace. There is a class on natural family planning, which we teach here. You take in the physiology of a woman and her menstrual cycle so that there are days when a woman cannot become fertile even if they have performed the sexual act. That’s what we call the natural method of birth control and that’s acceptable by the Church. But here birth control means you take pills to prevent pregnancy. That is interfering with the sexual act and when you do so, the Church says that is a sin because you’re not allowing yourself to be open to the transmission of life. So the Church will never back down from insisting that artiﬁcial birth control is a sin and is against the law of the Church; whereas natural birth control, taking into consideration the cycle of a woman in terms of her menstruation, is acceptable. Would you continue to oppose casino gambling if it were restricted to foreign passports? For sure. One of the reasons I have stood so strongly is because the population of Guam is very small. Studies have shown that in any community with a population of less than 200,000 people in the native community, casino gambling is not going to prosper. The reason it’s successful in Las Vegas, Atlantic City, Macau, The Philippines, in Europe is because there are populations around, millions of people, that come in the hope that they win something. I keep saying that gambling itself is not evil until it is abused. We have seen it happen with the poker machines in Guam years ago. Judge B.J. Cruz who was a family court judge saw the effect of the abuse and the monies being lost when parents gamble away their whole livelihood. And kids even being abused, prostituting themselves for something to eat or drink while mom and dad are inside gambling away all their hard earned money. I will continue to resist it because it’s not good for our island. Look at Tinian, the problems that they have. They put in a $200M casino and it has not helped the native population. Where has that money gone? I don’t know. The effects of casino gambling are not good
“I keep saying that gambling itself is not evil until it is abused.” for family or for community so I will continue to oppose it. Can you help us understand the justification of acceptable gambling through the Church, such as raffles, bingo and gambling at fiestas? In our effort to be successful at keeping out casino gambling, the Church ﬁnally gave up bingo and rafﬂes. It’s law in Guam books that gambling is allowable, as bingo, rafﬂe or cockﬁghting, if people apply for licenses. In 1987, in order for us to ﬁght casino gambling, we voluntarily gave up bingo and rafﬂes in our churches. Our Protestant friends would always call us hypocrites because we say no to casino gambling but we have bingo and rafﬂes in the church, so we voluntarily gave that up. Nobody has ever lost a house in bingo or a rafﬂe. If a casino comes in, as in the case of the poker machines, families will lose homes. The embarrassing thing for me and for the Church is at ﬁestas, mayors use the time of the ﬁesta for gambling. It’s legal for them. It really bothers me, the signs, “St. Anthony Fiesta! Texas Hold ‘Em!” No church is ever going to sponsor bingo and rafﬂes. I’m embarrassed because they always associate us. Texas Hold ‘Em or cockﬁghting, they use the weekend of the ﬁesta but I can’t do anything because it’s not church-sponsored, it’s sponsored by the mayors. And I really wish mayors would have the guts to say, in order to make the ﬁesta integral so it really becomes a church feast, we should forgo the gambling. But many of them need the funds for the municipal planning in their community. My challenge is to continue to talk to people and say publicly I wish we could get rid of all forms of gambling in Guam because it really is not good. We have survived so far. Big time gambling is not healthy for a small community like ours.
Can you express your opinions on the worldwide church sex scandals? I am abhorred that this has happened and I hope to the Lord that what has brought so much criticism to the Church, church ofﬁcials, even the Pope, that we be vigilant so that these scandals stop and if there are any offenders, that they be brought to justice. I think there’s a greater awareness now. I abhor it and I wish that this will be put to an end and that there will be more protection for the youth. Did the numerous multimillion dollar financial settlements to the scandals have an effect on church operations? I really can’t speak for the individual dioceses but people have been so scandalized that some of them have resisted being generous to the Church in its efforts to raise funds and so it has hampered some of the operations. The dioceses where the sex scandals happened and where lawsuits were brought, a number of them were brought to their knees and many of them have had to close churches in order to pay for these. Boston, for example, where that whole thing blew up, the cardinal resigned because he was accused of not doing much to curb this thing or bring it to the ofﬁcials. The new
“The embarrassing thing for me and for the Church is at ﬁestas, mayors use the time of the ﬁesta for gambling. It’s legal for them. It really bothers me, the signs, ‘St. Anthony Fiesta! Texas Hold ‘Em!’” 031
cardinal brought in was forced to close, I think, more than a hundred churches. He had to sell the churches in order to give the money to the victims that had been abused. It has had an effect on the worldwide church operations. There have been dioceses that went bankrupt. How can the Church overcome the negative light these incidents have cast? I think the Church is trying its best to make sure that where these things have happened, the perpetrators have been brought to justice. I believe in some cases they have even been defrocked—they’ve been relieved of their ministries, taken out of their ministry and some of them have even gone to prison. I think the Church just has to be vigilant and ensure there are safeguards so that this does not happen again. Otherwise people will have to be made answerable for these kinds of situations.
Can you educate us briefly on relics, particularly the St. Therese relics that have traveled through Guam? Relics are pieces of bones or clothing that was touched to a person who has been deﬁned by the Church as a saint. St. Therese has been deﬁned as one of them. There’s always this natural tendency to touch a saint but when this saint is dead and all you have is a bone in front of you, then you try to touch the relic in the hope that the saint will pray for you, you ask the prayer of the saint to help you through life. St. Therese has come to Guam already several times. Monsignor James has been very instrumental with bringing her here. The special meaning for the island is that St. Therese is the patron saint of missions and Guam continues to be a mission church. We have Santa Teresita in Mangilao. The meaning is this saint can help people living in the missions or who want to go to the missions later on to help. She can be a source of help for them in their spiritual life and that’s really all it is. We’re not worshipping a saint and we’re certainly not worshipping a relic but it reminds us. It’s only meant to help inspire us to become holy the way she was and help us through our life’s difﬁculties. Have you ever had a religious experience or witnessed a miracle? Every day since I became a priest. For me to say, “This is my body, this is my
“I was so desperate, I was mad at God. I wanted to leave the Church, leave the seminary. That was really where I had a crisis of faith.”
blood,” even though I see bread and wine, with faith, I really witness a miracle because the duty of a priest is to be able to change these humble elements into the body and blood of Christ and then to give it to people to partake of it in what is called Holy Communion, that’s certainly a miracle and I make it a deep religious experience every day that I celebrate Mass. Can you explain how the Chamorro people reconcile their ancient cultural beliefs of taotaomo’na with the Catholic teachings? For many of our people, the taotaomo’na are the spirits they feel around them, in their homes, and the way some of the elders explain it to me is these are the restless spirits of their ancestors who are somehow trying to get attention from the people living today as if to say, I need prayers, pray for me. There’s really nothing wrong with that if it helps people to remember they were here before us and it does not have to be contradictory to the teachings of the Church.
Do you believe in taotaomo’na and other indigenous folklore and superstition? For me to believe in it, I have to experience or see it. That’s why I say I remain neutral about this as people tell me about it. The Church is asking not to be superstitious; we have to believe that God is more powerful. Sometimes evil spirits come around to tempt us, to challenge us, to test us; we just have to truly believe that if we call on the Lord, these things will go away. Have you ever experienced moments of doubt in your faith? The most concrete experience of a doubt in my faith was at the time that my mother was dying in 1971. I was still studying to be a priest and I was seeing her waste away. She had cancer in her abdomen and taking turns with members of my family to watch her at the old Guam Memorial Hospital, the one night I was so desperate, I was mad at God. I wanted to leave the Church, leave the seminary. That was really where I had a crisis of faith. Luckily there was a priest
around, Fr. Daniel, who really talked to me a lot and encouraged me and what stuck in all the things he said was, “Do not run away from problems because if you keep running away from problems, problems will run after you. Learn to face it. Learn to accept it.” You cannot accept it on your own, you have to call on God so I resorted to prayer. I asked people to pray for me, to pray for my mom. That is what has helped me.
Can you discuss your greatest memories of serving God in Guam? All of my religious experiences. When I became the Archbishop, the ﬁrst thing I really wanted to do, and I made a commitment, was every year, go out and visit every Catholic school, no matter how long it takes. I celebrate Mass for the whole student body, then I try to go to each classroom and just talk with them so they know who the Bishop is and I try to learn from them because sometimes their questions are very deep. The most positive experiences of all: going for World Youth Day. In Germany in 2005 and in Canada in 2002, I stayed with the youth, I slept with them, I brought my own sleeping mat, I carried my own handbag, I walked with them for hours, traveling with them. We were singing, praying, laughing, trudging through mud, trudging through the ﬁelds; I just loved that. And many of them were touched because they didn’t think I would come down to their level. Those are the most positive experiences that make all the trials worthwhile and I just thank God that so far he’s given me good health. For the good that the Lord has given me, I’m very grateful and it really has been a very positive journey on the whole. • 033
FEATURE: WEEKEND WALKS: TARZAN FALLS SUB_DEPARTMENTS: CAUGHT + ECO CURIO + ACTION Get out and feel Guam with GU’s set of outdoor activities features. Don’t forget your sunscreen—or your camera!
Weekend Walks: Tarzan Falls WORDS + PHOTOS: JOSIE MOYER
arzan Falls, located between Santa Rita and Windward Hills, is not only home to one of Guam’s most popular hiking destinations, but is also a designated conservation reserve area. For the past 25 years, with grant money funded by the U.S. Department of Agriculture, the Guam Department of Agriculture has planted over 500 acres of nitrogen ﬁxing trees (like the acacia tree) in the areas surrounding Tarzan Falls. Nitrogen ﬁxing trees take nitrogen out of the air and use it to produce fertilizer. Nitrogen ﬁxing trees can greatly reduce the need to purchase synthetic fertilizers, thus lowering cash outputs and increasing self-sufﬁciency. In recent years, in addition to nitrogen ﬁxing trees, the Guam Department of Agriculture has also begun planting trees that are native to Guam such as iﬁt, pago, noni, plumeria and kaffo. The department concentrates its planting efforts during the wet season while during the dry season it monitors and protects the area from ﬁres. Being a conservation reserve area, one of the goals of the department is to restore the habitat and in the future, possibly release native wildlife into it. The only wildlife that currently inhabits the area are deer and pigs, neither of which is native to Guam. To get to Tarzan Falls, travel south on Route 1 (Marine Corps Drive) all the way to the trafﬁc intersection outside the gate to COMNAVMAR (Big Navy). Turn left onto Route 2A, then turn left
again at the ﬁrst trafﬁc light onto Route 5 toward the village of Santa Rita. Travel down this road 1.2 miles and then turn left onto Route 17, commonly known as Cross-Island Road. Drive east on Cross-Island Road about 3 miles and you’ll see the trailhead for Tarzan Falls on the left. The trailhead is clearly marked by a sign and many sets of shoes dangling from the power lines above it. Park your car near the entrance and hike down along the trail which is clearly visible and easy to follow. At the top of Tarzan Falls, carefully walk over the slippery rocks to get across Tarzan River to continue on the trail down to the waterfall. It’ll take you less than half an hour to reach the falls. There are three main areas to explore at Tarzan Falls: the top of the falls, the main large waterfall and, if you continue on the trail and hike further along Tarzan River, a couple of smaller waterfalls at the bottom. The bottom of the main waterfall is an excellent place to rest and have lunch. The pool area at the bottom of the main waterfall is very shallow and lined with rocks so DO NOT jump into the pools in any of the areas. You will injure yourself and become one of those hikers who needs rescuing. There is a deeper pool at the bottom of the third waterfall that is ideal for swimming. As with all places, please remember to take your trash with you when you leave Tarzan Falls. Because Tarzan Falls is a conservation reserve area, hikers
may not start any ﬁres or discard lit cigarette butts in the area, especially during the dry season. Be sure to tell someone where you are going and what time you expect to arrive home. Stay hydrated drinking plenty of water during the hike—don’t just drink when you feel thirsty. Protect yourself from the elements with sunscreen and insect repellent. Pace yourself, take your time and enjoy the great outdoors. Happy Trails! •
Difficulty Rating: Medium Small child/Pet friendly: Yes Distance: 1.4 miles Duration: 3 hours What to wear: Hat Hiking Boots or good cross trainers Long sleeved shirt Gloves Sunscreen What to bring: Plenty of water Lunch or snacks Camera Swimming clothes Insect repellent Sunscreen Cell phone Flashlight
036 // Outside
SUBMIT: Show off your latest catch! E-mail high resolution images to submit@GUmagazine.com
SUBMITTED BY: SKIP PERRY
SUBMITTED BY: LESLIE T. KIMBALL
Eco Curio: Giant African Snail Facts and ﬁgures about Guam’s local ﬂora and fauna
n a rainy day, the large garden snails will come out from their hiding places to feast and enjoy the hydration. The Giant African Snail is known scientiﬁcally as Achatina Fulica. Although it is known that these slimy mollusks were introduced to Guam during the 1940s, it remains unclear whether they were brought here during World War II from Rota or after the war from Saipan. Regardless, the Giant African Snail has become one of the most common snails on the island. The Giant African Snail has an elongated, cone-shaped shell with stripes of various brown shades. These snails usually spend their time hiding in moist crevices under logs or rocks because they are in danger of dehydration. However, when the rain starts to fall, these snails make
their appearance. Unlike the native snail species of Guam, the Giant African Snails are pests and feed on living plants such as food crops or ornamental plants. Surprisingly, these snails were originally brought to Guam as food supply—escargot. When cooked with butter and garlic, people found that the ﬂesh of the Giant African Snail was simply too tough and unappetizing to eat. Parasites living on the snail were a big concern, too. Today, the only natural predator that the Giant African Snail has here is an introduced ﬂatworm from New Guinea. The Giant African Snail is a simultaneous hermaphrodite, which means that each snail carries both testes and ovaries. During mating, the size difference between the two snails will determine the roles; the
larger snail will act as the female, and the smaller one will act as the male. So be sure to keep an eye out for these slow-moving creatures the next time it rains. And if you’re brave enough to try a Giant African Snail as an appetizer, be sure to keep it alive on a cornmeal diet for four days before cooking throroughly to avoid consuming pesticides secondhand and contracting any parasites. •
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GU // Outside // Action
Submit your action shots.
Action, a new sub-department of GU, will feature your photos of off-roading, scuba diving, spear fishing, rock climbing or any other action sport to be had in Guam
âžœSpecs PHOTO SUBMITTED BY: JOEY FLORES
# of shots: 1-4 per sport/activity Acceptable file formats: high resolution .jpg or .tif submit@GUmagazine.com
MANâ€™S BEST FRIEND ASTRAY WORDS: JAC PERRY | PHOTOS: ANTHONY TAMAYO JR.
On every street corner, alleyway or nook they can find, stray dogs and cats by the thousands forage for food, shelter and comfort throughout the island, continuing to breed and cause concern and unrest in our communities. Their growing numbers have been named the culprit for the onset and spread of disease, pollution, random attacks, the decline of indigenous wildlife and their presence is considered an overall nuisance.
osts of these pests, often revered as “man’s best friend,” are brought in to the Guam Animal Shelter, operated by G.A.I.N., Guam Animals In Need, to be nursed to health and groomed for adoption. Sadly, the number of animals left behind is a daunting proportion to the ones taken into caring homes. These forsaken animals barely stood a ﬁghting chance against their fate. Animals not adopted are fostered in the hopes of ﬁnding suitable homes, but in most cases, are put to sleep, the accepted euphemism for euthanized. In local media, the stray animal population has garnered much attention and residents have spoken out in concern, frustration and even fatalistic tones to address and therefore, eliminate the abandoned pet issue. Stray dogs and cats have a primary source. Usually they are a product of an unwanted litter whose original owners disregard the responsibility of ﬁnding these animals proper homes, and moreover, their duties to ensure unwanted pregnancies do not occur either by sterilization or proper restraint. Irresponsible pet ownership results in roaming stray animals prone to starvation, spreading infectious diseases and posing as road hazards. Stray dogs and cats that attack farm animals, household pets and people are usually resorting to natural instincts for survival. To manage or prevent these occurrences, some residents take barbaric approaches and lure stray animals with food laced with poison or anti-freeze which slowly kills them, according to a newsletter distributed by G.A.I.N. G.A.I.N., Guam’s humane society, incorporated in 1989, has remained dedicated to the prevention of cruelty to animals, educating the community on animal welfare and enforcing laws to protect animals in Guam. G.A.I.N. has operated the Guam Animal Shelter since March 2001. The decision to take over the shelter was “[I]n response to severe stray animal problems and conditions at the Yigo Animal Shelter,” according to Faye Varias, G.A.I.N. Board Member. The shelter was previously operated by the Guam Department of Public Health and Social Services. Since taken over by G.A.I.N., the shelter has been managed by members, who throughout the past 11 years, continue to offer their services as volunteers. G.A.I.N. regulates licensing and formalizes adoption procedures for animals at the shelter. Since 2001, G.A.I.N. and the government of Guam have agreed to a contract which empowers G.A.I.N. to handle all operations at the shelter while the building is government property and utility costs remain the government’s responsibility. Other than the electricity and water bills at the shelter, G.A.I.N. had received no funding from GovGuam for almost 18 years. The organization has relied entirely on donations,
sponsors and volunteers. In Fiscal Year 2007, the government appropriated $50,000 for operational costs of the shelter. In October 2008, the government of Guam’s approved Fiscal Year 2009 budget appropriated $100,000 for G.A.I.N., though it still has not been released as of this writing. Everyday tasks at the shelter are handled by three employees who are the only paid staff associated with G.A.I.N. Board members, shelter helpers and committee members responsible for outreach projects and fundraising activities volunteer up to 20 hours per week and do not receive any compensation. The annual operating cost for the animal shelter is more than $100,000, which does not include maintenance and repairs. Funding these high-priced rates is difﬁcult and the shrill undertaking for G.A.I.N. volunteers is that operations cannot cease to save dollars. All sheltered animals have to be fed, cared for and given medical attention and the money has to come from somewhere. About 80 percent of animals taken into the shelter are brought in by the community. The remaining 20 percent are brought in by Animal Control ofﬁcers of the Department of Agriculture. “This is really a testament to the good work G.A.I.N. is doing, because in the ‘80s, being brought to the shelter generally meant a death sentence. But now, these animals have
To manage or prevent these occurrences, some residents take barbaric approaches and lure stray animals with food laced with poison or anti-freeze which slowly kills them.” 039
Total number of stray dogs and cats in 2008: 5,105 Total number of stray dogs and cats adopted: 793
a chance at ﬁnding a home. If not, they pass peacefully and comfortably instead of slowly starving to death or being hit by a car,” Varias adds. G.A.I.N. is working on an important project to address the stray animal population which seeks to implement a collaborative approach involving government agencies and the community. The “three-prong approach: education, sterilization and enforcement” advocates learning responsible pet owner behavior, sterilization of pets and enforcement of laws already in place regarding animal control. After reviewing several studies and approaches to address stray animals, the members of G.A.I.N. insist the most successful solution is to incorporate the enforcement of the Guam Department of Agriculture’s Animal Control Unit, expand education programs, develop sterilization clinics and encourage the community to do their part to decrease the stray population and thereby the ﬂow of animals into the shelter. With fewer animals in the shelter, home placement becomes easier. G.A.I.N. encourages pet sterilization as a responsible means to prevent strays. “Spaying and neutering your animals is a very responsible act of preventing reproduction-related illnesses as well as unwanted pregnancies,” Varias says. Though these procedures seem like luxurious costs, they are invaluable in the ﬁght against the stray animal population. If a pet owner chooses not to take sterilization measures for personal reasons, they are encouraged to take responsibility
to see to it their male pets are not roaming free to impregnate females and are required to ensure their female pets are properly restrained. “It’s not only responsible, it’s the law. Guam law 10 GCA 34204(a) provides that every female dog or cat shall be conﬁned to a building or area so that she cannot come into contact with another animal except for planned breeding,” Varias says. “Guam also has a leash law, but few people comply because it’s hardly enforced.” G.A.I.N. has taken a proactive approach to do something about Guam’s stray population. “Nobody likes the idea of euthanizing adoptable animals without homes,” Varias says. “Problems associated with strays can deﬁnitely be prevented and eradicated. In theory, it should be easier to do this in Guam because we are an isolated island that doesn’t have bordering properties. But it requires the community’s participation.” For members of G.A.I.N. and tens of thousands of Guam’s residents, it is more than the mere frustration caused by stray animals. It is facing the difﬁcult truth that we induce the death—albeit humanely—of unwanted animals whose existence could have been responsibly avoided. •
Legacy Joseph C. Murphy
WORDS: SHANNON MURPHY | PHOTOS: PROVIDED BY THE MURPHY FAMILY
Joseph C. Murphy, a longtime journalist and columnist at the Paciﬁc Daily News, died at the age of 81 on February 5, 2009 at his home in Yona, Guam.
urphy grew up in a small town in Wisconsin, joining the Navy at age 17 during World War II. He married his high school sweetheart, Marion, and spent the rest of his life with her. They had eight children. He earned a degree in journalism from University of Wisconsin at Madison and worked as a journalist ever since. Murphy worked in Wisconsin, Oregon and California before taking a job in Guam in 1965 with the Guam Daily News, owned at the time by Publisher Joe Flores. He covered local news, wrote editorials, a daily column, “Pipe Dreams,” and put together the national and international news seven days a week. A Hawaii company bought the paper in 1970 and then resold it to Gannett, Inc. a year later. With a larger new staff, Murphy became the editor, continuing to write his daily “Pipe Dreams” column and a daily editorial for many more years. He documented the early days of tourism, watching Guam change from a sleepy military outpost with a population of about 60,000 to an international tourist destination with a population of 165,000 today. His main topics were new development, the economy, innovative ideas and politics. In 1981, Daily News gave him a whole year to travel around the Paciﬁc and write about other islands, comparing and contrasting governments, educational systems and economies. He coined the phase “Only on Guam” as an occasional item in his column, poking fun at the idiosyncrasies that make Guam such an interesting and unique place to live. Murphy retired as editor of the Paciﬁc Daily News in 1988 but 042
continued to write his column, which changed names from “Pipe Dreams” to “Murphy’s Law” after he quit smoking. He and his wife Marion traveled the world learning about history, geography, culture and politics, always looking for new ideas that might work in Guam, his beloved home, and shared those thoughts in his column in the Daily News. Murphy always kept a pen and reporter’s notebook with him to jot down facts for his column and wanted to write until the end. He left a legacy of writers, both among his own children, grandchildren and great-grandchildren and many others who were inspired by his words and actions to become journalists. Thoughts about Joe Murphy was very saddened by the news that my fellow Irishman, Joe Murphy, passed away. It is going to take a while to get used to the absence of his voice and views about our island home. Although he and I differed in our opinions about certain things from time to time, it never affected our friendship and respect for each other. Once in a while, he referred to me as his fellow Irishman. I assumed I earned that honor as a graduate of the school of the Fighting Irish of Notre Dame. He told me that the real reason was that I was a native of the Ireland of Guam! Ordinarily, I have little difﬁculty expressing my sentiments. Tonight, I am at a loss for words to convey adequately my respect and affection for your Mom and Dad. I bend my knees often and in those moments when I do, my thoughts will be of your father and his enormous contri-
bution to our community for over half a century. We, on Guam, are all better persons because we have walked in life with Joe Murphy. –Congressman Ben Blaz
oe was a mentor. As a young journalist, I greatly beneﬁted from his counsel and learned much from his calm, evenhanded approach to work and life. Along with his light-hearted O.O.G. humor, he taught me we had more to learn from Guam than Guam from us. Still so true. I remember the ﬁrst day he walked into the old GDN newsroom. We immediately took a liking to each other. He took me from the back shop and wire editing and got me started as a reporter/writer. I fondly recall our conversations about how newspapers make and hold together the community—conversations that took place in the midst of the “gotcha” journalism practiced by the newly imported, self-important, short-term careerists. Perhaps they grew and learned, too. I hope so. On my several revisits to the Island, I made it a point to visit Joe in Yona, relive some old times and catch up on the new ones. I regret immensely that I didn’t make that stop last year at this time. Of all the missed opportunities in life, that will rank among the highest. –Tom Brislin, Ph.D.
oe’s name carried far and wide across the Paciﬁc—wherever I traveled on PDN assignments everyone asked me about him. If I hadn’t read his column that day, then it was recited back to me. He was a beacon of free speech and
May/June 2009 // 043 free press in the region, particularly for Micronesians. Whenever he wrote about an issue, either for or against it, or just to give his opinion and commentary, he strengthened the foundation of a new democratic system for all Micronesians. I think they ﬁgured, hey if a white guy can speak out about the system then I certainly can, too! He will certainly be remembered for helping create and nurture Micronesian journalism. I helped start a newspaper in Yap while a Peace Corps volunteer (The Carolines Observer) that was copied on the PDN from the 1970s. That was Joe’s paper and his inﬂuence was all over it. And it was more the Yapese who wanted to emulate the style he imbued in the PDN than us volunteers! –Mark Skinner
got to work with Joe. He amazed me. He was always in his ofﬁce typing away early every morning. He was one of the most consistent producers I have ever met in this journalism business. He
must have written a couple of Bibles worth of columns. He found the island and its people fascinating. Reading his writing was like you were just talking to a friend. It was a friendly ramble you couldn’t stop reading. His instincts were very good. He was subtle but he could rufﬂe some feathers when that was needed. He was also the ﬁrst to give a pat on the back to those who deserved it. Journalism doesn’t have to be all gloom and doom and Joe always tried to be upbeat. He looked for the good. Best of all, he was a good and generous guy at work and in real life. If you had a question, needed a bit of Guam history or just needed a bit of afﬁrmation, Joe had time for you. He’d stop what he was doing and pay attention to you. Even though he was a fountain of information, he was even a better listener. He was a guy I always liked to see and just about everyone I know felt that way. We won’t see him anymore but when we think of him, we’ll think warm thoughts
and crack a smile. Joe was one of the good guys. –Tim Rock
THE BEST OF GUAM: BEST CLINIC: SDA WHY THEY WON:
Because “Our Mission is your Health”
The Guam Seventh-day Adventist Clinic over the years has developed a very loyal following which has spanned several generations in many families. This ﬁne accomplishment has taken over 50 years but more importantly, the dedication of many driven and compassionate healthcare providers without whose contribution, we would not be celebrating this special event. The example and demand for commitment and dedication of our missionary providers was set by the ﬁrst healthcare provider, Dr. L.A. Smart, who traveled to Guam in 1957; a destination he knew little about but was determined to provide Christian healthcare to its people. What makes the Guam Seventh-day Adventist Clinic special is the desire of our providers, past and present, to treat not only the physical but also the emotional and spiritual needs of their patients. Hours of Operation: Medical/Urgent Care Pharmacy
Monday–Thursday Friday Sunday
7:30 am–6:30 pm 6:30 am–1:00 pm 8:00 am–1:00 pm
Monday –Thursday Friday
8:00 am–5:00 pm 8:00 am–12:00 pm
7:30 am–5:00 pm 8:00 am–12:00 pm
7:30 am–5:00 pm 7:30 am–12:00 pm
Location: 388 Ypao Road Tamuning, GU 96913 Phone Number: 646-8881
FEATURE: The Steaks of Colors Restaurant/Red SUB_DEPARTMENTS: DISH OF THE MOMENT + LUNCH PLATE OF THE MOMENT + COOK Whet your appetite in GU’s enticing food and beverage department. Whether you’re looking for a new romantic restaurant or a casual alternative to ham and cheese, find it in GU’s EAT.
Dish of the Moment WORDS: JAC PERRY | PHOTO: STEVE HARDY
Nizakana at Joinus Restaurant
he posh Tumon Sands Plaza is home to one of Guam’s most cherished authentic Japanese restaurants specializing in all Japanese cuisine. Joinus Restaurant has remained a stronghold among Japanese dining establishments in Guam for good reason. Aside from specialties like Teppan-yaki, sushi and tempura entrees, Joinus is known for its appealing seafood creations, using classic Japanese cooking techniques and the ﬁnest ingredients. Joinus features Nizakana, a favorite among local customers and seafood lovers. A slow-broiled black cod ﬁlet is added to a delicate broth made of cooking sake, soy and dashi (Bonita ﬂakes) and then slow-cooked to enhance the
ﬁsh’s texture. Black cod is known to be one of the tastiest, most tender and moist of food ﬁshes and the combination of broiling and slow simmering makes the savory ﬁlet melt in your mouth. The generous portion of ﬁsh is surrounded by a steamy, aromatic broth and neatly contained in a decorated, covered authentic Japanese serving dish to retain moisture and heat. In the traditional Japanese manner, Nizakana is served with rice, salad, miso soup, pickles and your choice of sashimi or tempura. The entrée is so pleasant it has encouraged many to convert and become ﬁsh-eaters. Perhaps, at your next visit, this dish may persuade your favorite stubborn seafood nay-sayer.
Lunch Plate of the Moment
Pepper Steak at Linda’s Coffee Shop
Pepper Steak op Linda’s Coffee Sh $10.00
Photo: Josie Moyer
THE BEST OF GUAM: BEST SANDWICH: SUBWAY WHY THEY WON:
Subway Restaurants is grateful to the readers of GU magazine for this honor. We know that we would not be where we are today with out our customers. We also thank our staff for their hard work and dedication. They are the key to our continued success. We invite the people of Guam to join us as we continue to bring new, fresh, and healthy eating options a table near you!
Subway Restaurants have been a part of Guam for more than 20 years. We have 17 restaurants all across the region and have more than 130 employees. Our ﬁrst restaurant in Yigo opened in1989 and our newest restaurant recently opened in the US Naval Hospital. What has sustained our success is our focus on providing fresh and healthy food at a great value. Our products are well known nationally and customized locally which gives us a healthy balance for continued growth. From ﬂatbread to soups to our traditional subs we offer something for everyone. Aside from the obvious healthy choices such as the new 9-grain wheat bread, we also offer smart indulgent choices to enjoy without feeling guilty afterwards. We feel that our continued success is a combination of the dedication of our employees and management team, having fresh and tasty ingredients, and remembering our place and responsibility to the greater Guam community. We never forget that the choices available to our customers are constantly growing and we know that providing the best customer service, and having clean welcoming restaurants are essential to keeping the success of Subway Restaurants going. We are committed to Guam’s future by reinvesting into our restaurants and the people that make the brand successful.
THE BEST OF GUAM: BEST TEPPAN-YAKI: JOINUS WHY THEY WON:
The ultimate food paired with ﬁrst-class, James Bond-worthy customer service.
Joinus in the Tumon Sands Plaza has welcomed visiting guests since it opened its doors. But its acclaim among local diners has chiseled its permanent position on the short list of never-fail restaurants. Its reputation for unsurpassed quality, service and overall enjoyment is the reason the most GU readers voted Joinus as Guam’s Best Teppan-yaki restaurant. From the moment fresh meat and vegetables are brought to the hot grill, hungry patrons become engrossed and anticipate the commencement of the traditional teppan-yaki dining experience. The presentation at the of the raw produce displays the precise attention to aesthetics and elaboration the Joinus team insists on providing its guests. The professional teppan-yaki chefs provide entertainment while they masterfully grill your order into a work of art. The servers are mindful to offer local diners ﬁnadene and extra donne as part of their commitment to excellent customer service. The accommodating staff is happy to meet your requests for substitutions and exceptions with no fuss, an attribute that can make a good dining experience a fantastic one. Evident in the delicious menu items, overall atmosphere, world-class service and dining hours, Joinus continues to deliver the superiority diners have come to expect.
STEAKS of Colors Restaurant/Red
One of Tumon’s latest additions to ﬁne dining, Colors Restaurant/Red features a non-typical, fashionable, lounge-style panache to damper restaurant norms. The two-storey space offers a distinctive approach to world-fusion cuisine, decorated with the ﬁnest accouterments in cocktails and entertainment. While the swank, upscale, modern design can deliver the promises of a classy dining experience on its own, the 30 Signature Steaks by Red will leave diners staggering. Award-winning Executive Chef Eddie Chien, whose charm is as inviting and tasteful as his recipes, tested the boundaries of his creativity when developing this menu from a meat-lover’s dream. Each steak dish was created to result in particular and deliberate ﬂavors and aromas derived from the ﬁnest cuts of beef and lamb prepared on a grill, broiler or pan. WORDS: JAC PERRY | PHOTOS: JOSIE MOYER + SEAN LOCKE
SPECIAL PREPARATION OF THE DAY: A daily creative outlet for Chef Chien, who lauds the opportunity. “I get to do things that would normally take a lot of time and get to use items that are the freshest of the day. It’s the typical ‘trust me’ dish,” he says. THE RIB EYES The Red Steak: Fresh garlic rub and a hint of Cognac to bring out and enrich flavor of the meat. Yakiniku: Combines the flavor of sambal and demi glace to create a balance of heat and savory soy marinade. Delmonico: A charbroiled classic preparation of parsley and brandy reduction to a rich demi glace. Local Style: Favorite of Chef Chien. “Discovered purely by accident, meant to be a preparation for staff dinner which turned into a gem of a sauce,” Chef Chien says of the garlic, soy and pepper reduction. Roasted Garlic: Charbroiled and covered in a Piccata (garlic, lemon, wine and butter) sauce. “The Piccata sauce helps to balance the richness of the Ribeye and the full flavor of the demi glace.” Chasseur “The Hunter:” Charbroiled, wild mushroom, natural jus. “The wild mushroom is braised in red wine to create more of the earthy note in this preparation.” Creole: A creamy Creole-style sauce. “Spiciness is mellowed by adding bell pepper to the Cajun seasoning and the addition of cream rounds out the flavors.” Horseradish: Creamy basil and horseradish sauce. “Very basic, clean preparation to allow the horseradish to heighten the full flavor of the Ribeye. Another classic pairing.” Red Cabbage: Charbroiled surrounded by a red cabbage confit “Inspired by the classic preparation of ‘sour bratten’ to add a sweet and sour factor to balance the flavors of the rib eye.”
THE FILET MIGNONS Rossini “The Composer:” Seared foie gras and truffle demi glace. “A very classic preparation, almost a required dish in every steak house honoring the Italian composer for whom this dish was created.” Béarnaise: Charbroiled with a ginger basil hollandaise sauce. “Another steak house staple.” Bordelaise: Charbroiled with a merlot reduction sauce. “The tannins in the wine help bring out the full flavor of the filet,” Chien adds. Au Poivre: Pan-seared with a threepepper sauce. “I took a little liberty with a classic dish by using sambal with cracked pepper to create a unique twist on a classic.” Argentinean: Churrasco style with a Chimichurri sauce. “Although the sauce has been around for a long time, it is a fairly new style in preparation; now a nearstandard in any steak house. The pestolike sauce helps soften the richness of the filet but also adds a new freshness.” Bleu Cheese: Charbroiled with a veal demi glace sauce and covered in bleu cheese. “An old stalwart of any steak house.” THE 30 OZ. RIB EYES Dianne “The Huntress:” Pan-seared and covered in a mixed mushroom sauce. “Similar to the Chasseur except much bigger.” Texas BBQ: An ancho wood smoked steak with natural jus. “The smokiness and the heat of the spices helps make this giant unbelievable.” Herb Crusted: Pan-seared, herb-covered in a cabernet reduction sauce. “The herb crust adds additional texture and earthiness to the meat.” Jerk Marinade: Charbroiled with a spiced marmalade sauce. “The 20 herbs and spices are perfect to compliment a rich, full-flavor steak like the rib eye.”
THE NEW YORK STEAKS Moroccan: Spice-rubbed in a basil-honey demi glace. “The balance of honey and basil really brings out the flavor in the New York cut.” Cajun: Flat iron blackened in a Creole garlic cream. “My favorite, second to the Local Style.” Maitre D’: Charbroiled original, classic butter sauce. Teppan Garlic: Japanese teppan-style with caramelized garlic chips and a trio of dipping sauces. “Our version offers a twist on the sauces.” Country-Style: Charbroiled, served with a poached egg. Sichuan-Style: To honor Chef Chien’s roots, marinated and covered in a spicy scallion and ginger relish.
Cook: Grilling 101 WORDS: MAYA ALONSO
Chamorros have earned themselves quite a reputation for their skills at the barbecue grill but did you know there are specific methods for getting grillmark perfect results every time? ■ For foods that require fewer than 25 minutes of cooking time or to sear meats, use the direct-heat method: spread treated charcoal evenly across the barbecue and place the grill atop. Light the ﬁre and let burn 30 to 45 minutes until gray ash forms evenly on the briquettes. Place food on the grill and cook to desired doneness. ■ For foods requiring more than 25 minutes of cooking time, use the indirect-heat method: place the charcoal on either side of the barbecue and light the ﬁre and let burn 30 to 45 minutes until gray ash forms evenly on the briquettes.
Set a drip pan in the center of the barbecue, next to the hot coals. Position the grill atop the heat source, place the food on the grill over the drip pan and cook to desired doneness. Water may be added to the drip pan for long cooking times, to keep the drippings from burning. ■ Oil your meat and season with salt and pepper. ■ Grill with the lid on and no peeking! Grilling with the lid on prevents ﬂareups and keeps valuable heat inside for even cooking and a meal that’s ready when you said it would be—just remember to keep the air vents open. ■ Lift the lid only to ﬂip or baste the food on the grill. And remember, lift the lid to the side instead of straight up to prevent ashes from being pulled up onto the food.
■ Flip food only once, halfway between the recommended cooking time. ■ Use tongs, not a fork, which pokes holes allowing juices to run out of the meat. ■ Don’t press down on the meat with your tongs or spatula in anticipation of that tempting sizzle; doing so also wastes precious juices. ■ Allow your meats to rest before carving. Thinner pieces should rest about ﬁve minutes while larger pieces with longer cooking times should rest about 10 to 15 minutes.
THE BEST OF GUAM BEST ROADSIDE SERVICE: ROADSIDE SERVICE & TOWING
WHY THEY WON:
Unbeatable consistency in service and assistance during times of automotive anxiety
Roadside Service and Towing has been selected by our readers for the third year in a row as the Best Roadside Service on island. Roadside, doing business as: Kayjo Corporation, is a locally owned, family business dedicated to giving the best service possible to all Guam motorists. With the company standard to “Treat every customer as their only customer,” it is no surprise Roadside Service and Towing is the ﬁrst name in business to come to mind when in an automotive snafu. Roadside Towing’s reputation for immediate service is unsurpassed. The company successfully maintains the biggest ﬂeet of tow trucks on the island and, because of their commitment to service, business continues to grow. Roadside has attached to it one of Guam’s most dependable mechanic shops. As one of Guam’s ﬁnest, state-of-the-art repair shops, K& J can accurately boast capabilities from the simplest battery replacement to complicated engine and transmission repair. The convenience of pairing an auto towing service with a repair shop is another reason Roadside remains a mainstay in the industry. Roadside Towing is at your service 24 hours a day, seven days a week, even on holidays. Telephone: 647-0647 PROMOTIONAL
THE BEST OF GUAM: BEST EYE CLINIC: FHP VISION CENTER WHY THEY WON:
For offering Guam’s best eye care services and a wide range of optical products
FHP Optometrists, Dr. Jay McDonald and Dr. Marlene San Nicolas, along with the Vision Center staff would like to thank the readers of GU Magazine for choosing them the Best of Guam! The FHP Vision center offers excellent eye care services and a wide array of optical products. They offer comprehensive eye exams using state-of-the-art equipment to detect and treat vision problems and minor eye diseases. FHP Vision Center has special testing methods to detect cataract, glaucoma and other more serious eye diseases. Their optical boutique boasts over 1,000 top of the line frames, contact lenses and brand name sunglasses. Convenience is synonymous with FHP. Their in-house optical lab allows them to provide same day service on most glasses prescriptions and they stock over 200 contact lenses. FHP Vision Center is located in Tamuning adjacent to the ITC Building and Tamuning Post Ofﬁce. 155 ET Calvo Memorial Parkway Suite102, Tamuning, Guam. Hours of operation: Monday–Saturday 10am–6pm, closed on Sunday and observed holidays. Telephone: 648-3350. Visit www.takecareasia.com for more information.
THE BEST OF GUAM BEST CLUB FOR LIVE MUSIC + BEST HAPPY HOUR: THE VENUE WHY THEY WON:
Excellent variety in live local acts and preferred setting to end a work day for happy hour.
The Venue in Hagatna opened its doors almost three years ago to welcome bar and nightclub enthusiasts to the Hagatna area. The goal was to offer a fresh suggestion to Guam’s social network for what quickly became a very popular and highly frequented locale. Venue’s popularity in large part has a lot to do with the dedication to featuring live music as often as possible during operating hours, often featuring two different acts a night. The Venue has featured musical acts such as Two Weeks Notice, Table for 5, Mattychris, Fried Bananas, Plan B, 8-Track Mind, Maseha, Natural Rhythm, Acoustic Soul and Dannaj. Although the musical lineup changes periodically and cannot be predicted, the management has proven their stellar taste in live music and patrons know they can anticipate a good time, every time. At the end of a work day, The Venue’s spacious lounge area invites happy-hour goers to climb onto one of their many barstools or get comfortable at a table and enjoy affordable drinks for a happy hour very different from Guam’s usual fare. The Venue draws happy hour goers like no other bar on the higher-end scale. Happy hour crowds are difﬁcult to attract—location, atmosphere, prices and crowd are the key to bringing people in and those precise reasons GU readers voted the Venue as the best happy hour spot in Guam. PROMOTIONAL
THE BEST OF GUAM: BEST DIVE SHOP: MDA WHY THEY WON:
Locally owned SCUBA dive facility providing superior service from novice to the most experienced divers in Guam
MDA ﬁrst opened its doors in 1982 and has grown from a humble dive shop into a multifaceted operation including full ranges in retail, wholesale, tour support, boat operations and travel departments. For more than 27 years, MDA has remained dedicated to the local Guam and Micronesia customer circuit. With their concentration on local divers, MDA has given the opportunity for Guam’s marine-inquisitive to experience the miracle of breathing underwater and to encounter the splendor beneath the surfaces of our clear, warm waters. With exclusive merchandise from some of the world’s largest premier labels in SCUBA gear, MDA can outﬁt you to your personal tastes and offers several promotions to ensure your dive habits remain affordable. As a PADI 5-Star Instructional Development Center, classes for the curious to the most enterprising are available. The company’s “Career Scuba” initiative offers a complete line of professional level courses from open water certiﬁcation all the way through the PADI Instructor Development Course. From equipment and gear to boat accommodations, classes to dive travel destinations, this company is unrivaled and has maintained its status as a household name in Guam’s dive industry. Telephone: 472-6321
THE BEST OF GUAM BEST HOME/AUTO INSURANCE: CALVO’S INSURANCE WHY THEY WON:
Unsurpassed commitment to convenience, reliability and customer satisfaction
Calvo’s Insurance celebrates more than 70 years of providing consistent and affordable home and automobile insurance service to Guam. For the third year running, our readers have expressed their gratitude in support of this local, family-owned business and tough competitor in the industry. Holding the title as the largest and fastest growing insurance provider in Micronesia and one of the oldest locally owned businesses, Calvo’s has earned its top position among home and automobile insurance providers. While insurance costs can be daunting, Calvo’s continues to offer fair and competitive rates with superior coverage for homes and automobiles to their customers. Aside from keeping insurance costs affordable, Calvo’s customer service representatives provide information quickly and easily when it is needed. At times when insurance is required, personal consideration is taken and quality attention is guaranteed. A friendly voice will answer your questions and your insurance home or auto insurance matters will be handled with care. Few local insurance carriers offer the personal service that can be attributed to Calvo’s. Convenience, efﬁciency and prompt attention in service are what customers can expect from this company that opened its doors in 1938. Telephone: 472-6816
THE BEST OF GUAM: BEST ART GALLERY: CAHA WHY THEY WON:
For featuring local art and history on legendary grounds
The KAHA Art Gallery maintained by the Guam Council on the Arts and Humanities Agency (CAHA) is located at the home of one of Guam’s most famous legends and popular local and tourist attractions, Two Lovers Point on the Harmon cliff line. The gallery is situated on the opposite side of the famous cliff where forbidden lovers were immortalized as having plunged to their deaths in the crashing waters beneath. The Gallery is home to the Guam Museum collection which showcases several important historical artifacts and work from local artists as well as a gift shop. The most notable feature of the gallery is the Yokoi Exhibit, a pictorial exhibit which highlights the struggle of Japanese hold-out Sergeant Shoichi Yokoi who spent 28 years hidden in Guam’s jungles after the end of World War II. The exhibit conveys Yokoi’s determination to survive, his makeshift home in a cave, clothing made from natural ﬁbers, crude implements and tools, his capture by two local hunters and his triumphant return to his home country of Japan. Admission to the Yokoi Exhibit is $5.00 for adults, $2.00 for students and children under the age of 12 are free of charge. Proceeds from the exhibit will be donated to the Guam Museum Foundation to assist in building the island’s highly anticipated Guam Museum. The Gallery is open seven days a week: Monday through Friday at 8:30 am–4:30pm, Saturday at 8:30am–3:30pm and Sunday at 9:00am– 3:30pm, closed on holidays.
THE BEST OF GUAM BEST PLACE TO BUY GUAM GIFTS + BEST LOCAL FOOD: THE CHAMORRO VILLAGE WHY THEY WON:
Best “feel good” place to ﬁnd traditional Chamorro gift items that represent Guam.
The items found throughout the Chamorro Village feature time-honored items speciﬁc to Guam including jewelry, keepsakes, novelty items and arts and crafts. Many of the pieces can be custom designed. Chamorro jewelry, or alåhas, like the sinahi or the spondylos pendants can be ordered speciﬁc to size and shape by the carvers who display their work at the village. Available for purchase is the sinahi pendant, named after the Chamorro word for crescent moon and sculpted in its image. The large pendant is made from the shell of the giant clam, and is an honorable piece of jewelry to receive as a gift. Another traditional jewelry item is the spondylos pendant, made of the spiny oyster shell where it gets its vibrant orange hue. Other items available for gifts are the iﬁt wood carved items like the Chamorro kamyu or coconut grating device and several metal items fashioned after the ﬁrst metal tools used by Chamorros like the tieras or betel nut cutters and the fosiños, a metal gardening tool. Many novelty items like woven baskets, hats and decorative images also are available. The village is open Monday–Saturday from 10 am– 6pm and Sunday from 10 am–3pm.
Know the scene and heard with GU’s Mix, a snapshot series covering Guam’s multifaceted social circles and nightlife. Mix will be there even if you weren’t.
ST. PATRICK’S DAY: Titan Imports and Power 98 invited Guam’s St. Patrick’s Day celebrants to Horse & Cow and the Venue where Jameson Irish Whiskey gave life to the party. PHOTOS: ANTHONY TAMAYO JR.
2 hour finale Wednesday May 20
St. Patrickâ€™s Day continued...
WINES OF THE WORLD: Every Friday evening at the Point at the Sheraton, Titan Imports features a wide selection of wines from around the globe to suit any palate. Enjoy the live entertainment and crowd to taper off your busy week. PHOTOS: ANTHONY TAMAYO JR.
CHILI’S GRAND OPENING
PHOTOS SUBMITTED BY: JASON HEAVNER, JACOB SIPPEL & TREVOR WELSH
THE LAST WORD POETRY SLAM
PHOTOS: ANTHONY TAMAYO JR.
Spirit of the Moment
Tequila Rose WORDS: JAC PERRY
Not brand new to the cocktail scene, but a mainstay in popular bars and nightclubs is the creamy, luxurious American creation intended for those interested in a conservative, tequila-like experience minus the Mexican spirit’s full-body and affected disorderly reputation. Allow us to re-introduce your ambrosia, Tequila Rose. Soon the Original Strawberry flavor will share a space behind a bar with the label’s latest anticipated productions. Nobody knows what to expect at their first experience with Tequila Rose, Original Strawberry Cream. It coats glasses with its pink velvety smoothness and releases a pleasing aroma that beckons a taste. It has the richness of a fine confection and the maturity of a distinguished liqueur. The silky cream and tang of strawberry is finished with the slightest tinge of tequila flavor that results in a resounding, “Mmm!” After tasting the Original Strawberry, one cannot help but to imagine chocolate and coffee flavors to completely round out our palate’s curiosity. Fancy no more. The makers of Tequila Rose have developed two matches to its remarkable introduction, Java and Cocoa Cream, now available in Guam and brought to you by Titan Imports. Tequila Rose Cocoa Cream features the unmistakable creaminess of the original but effectively combines the delicate promise of high quality chocolate to unveil a delightful liqueur, reminiscent of lavish or gourmet chocolate truffles reserved for the finest occasions. Tequila Rose did not forget its lovers of the “morning blend.” The Java Cream flavor offers all the splendor of its variants and goes one beyond by blending a precise balance of coffee and cream to satisfy coffee cravings. While there are coffee liqueurs and coffee-flavored liqueurs, there are no well known coffee cream liqueurs. And absolutely none infused with a splash of tequila. The result is a well done accomplishment by Tequila Rose. One or more of the products on the Tequila Rose menu is sure to please anyone. All three should be enjoyed at room temperature, over ice or chilled on its own for sipping to appreciate the quality of the flavors. They can also be used mixed into frozen cocktails, shooters, coffee drinks and in dessert recipes. Look for these fine products at your favorite bar. Cheers.
RELAX. THEY’RE BLANKS.
PHOTOS: STEVE HARDY | STYLIST: CAMILLE DENIGHT | HAIR + MAKEUP: ADRIAN DIAZ/LEMON DROPS | CLOTHING: DNA EVOLUTION AND KICKS/HI
CLOTHING: DNA EVOLUTION AND KICKS/HI
CLOTHING: DNA EVOLUTION AND KICKS/HI
CLOTHING: DNA EVOLUTION AND KICKS/HI
CLOSE // NICE VIEW
PHOTO: MARY P. TORRE
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